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NO. 24 2015

sirius sled patrol sirius patruljen

CULTURE, ADVENTURE & BUSINESS Kultur, Oplevelser & Erhverv

thule air base

mineral exploration mineral efterforskning

DKK 49,95

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Royal Greenland

- The Norths Atlantic Champion Royal Greenland suliffeqarfiuvoq kalaallit kulturiannik sorlaqarfeqartoq. Aalisakkanik qalerualinnillu nioqqutissaativut pitsaalluinnartuusut tunisassiassanit asseqanngitsunit Kalaallit Nunaanneersunit tunisassiaapput. Royal Greenland er en virksomhed med dybe rødder i den grønlandske kultur. Unikke grønlandske råvarer er det helt naturlige fundament for vores sortiment af højkvalitets fiskeog skaldyrsprodukter. Royal Greenland is a company with deep roots in the Greenlandic culture. Unique Greenlandic raw materials are the natural foundation of our assortment of high quality seafood products.

www.royalgreenland.com www.royalgreenland.gl


leder / editorial

Grønlands

ressourcer Grønlands økonomi har det svært, men de største ressourcer er stadig i landet. Det er blandt andet de mennesker, der mod alle odds tør drive forretning eller starte nyt. De, der vil forandring og tør sætte ord på deres visioner. Læs om en iværksættervirksomhed i Qaqortoq og Grønlands største blogger.

Grønlands ressourcer er også de mineraler, der stadig er forankret i grundfjeldet. Selvom storskalaprojekterne er sat på stand by, er det stadig rentabelt at starte mindre

mineprojekter, som Grønland har haft flere af før. Grønland er stadig fuld af oplevelser og muligheder. Vi er med havkajak i Diskobugten og på eventyr i Sydgrønland. Kulturen er ukuelig i Grønland. Det samme er viljen til at hjælpe andre. Læs om Greenland Eyes og Foreningen Grønlandske Børns indsatser.

God sommer Avi & Mads

Greenland's Udgiver & Redaktør

resources Times are difficult for Greenland’s economy, but the greatest resources are still in the country. These include the people who, against all odds, have the courage to run a business or to start a new one. And those who want change and have the courage to put words to their visions. Read about an entrepreneurial business in Qaqortoq and about Greenland’s biggest blogger. Greenland’s resources are also the minerals that are still buried in the bedrock. Although big-scale projects have been put on stand-by,

smaller mining projects, like those Greenland has seen before, can still be profitable. Greenland is still full of experiences and opportunities. We take a sea kayak in the Disko Bay and find adventure in South Greenland. The culture of Greenland is indomitable. The same is the will to help others. Read about the efforts of Greenland Eyes and the Society for Children in Greenland.

Have a nice summer Avi & Mads Publisher & Editor

.com

The key to business life in the land of opportunities

Experience combined with visions for the future Social responsibility and networks

Greenland Business Association www.SuliSitSiSut.gl


indhold / contents

10-12

6-7

mød grønland meet greenland

18-19

qilakitsoq mumierne The qilakitsoq Mummies

66-72

62-64

emanuel a. Petersen - En malerisk beretning - An artistic account

sirius patruljen The sirius sled patrol Mød Grønland 6 Qilakitsoq mumierne 10 Bøger 14 2040 Allatta! 16 Emanuel A. Petersen 18 En amerikansk etnograf i Nuuk 22 Greenland Eyes 28 Grønlands diva 36 Grønlands største blogge 40 Grønland på flaske 48 srk exploration i Grønland 50 Topprioritet på toppen af verden 54 DYE-2 62 Sirius patruljen 66 Portræt af en sportslig ildsjæl 76 Med havkajak i Diskobugten 80 En usædvanlig studietur 88 Skolebesøg på M/S Fram 92 Hotel Narsaq 96 Næste nummer 98

dye-2 - Et levn fra en ikke så fjern fortid - A relic from a not so distant past med havkajak i diskobugten

greenland today

NO. 24 2015

sea kayaking in disko bay

80-84

g in the Arctic and see the midnight sun

he highlights of Greenland with this 8 nture: the magical colours of the midnight ng among icebergs and through deep urmet cuisine with a view of gigantic and the endless expanse of the inland

ettable journey where we explore the s and cities in the Arctic spring.

thule air base

Culture, adVenture & business Kultur, opleVelser & erhVerV

Forside foto / Cover photo: The Wildlanders

mineral exploration mineral efterforsKning

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greenland today

Tryk/Printing PrintConnect Aps

Ansv. redaktør/Editor in Chief Mads Nordlund editor@greenlandtoday.com

Grafisk tilrettelægning/Layout Aviaq Nordlund Mørch (red./ed.) aviaq@greenlandtoday.com

ISSN 1902-8857

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sk

M i l j ø mær

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Oversættelse/Translation Maria Holm & Karina Møller

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k ni

Udgiver/Publisher Aviaq Nordlund Mørch

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enland-travel.com/9042 33 13 10 11

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ourney: elings in Greenland

e May 2015 K 22,495

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820 Tryksag

Skribenter/Writers The Wildanders, Joanne Castagna, Toke Brødsgaard, John Jakobsen, Jesper Krage, Mads Nordlund, greenland today

Annoncer/Advertising aviaq@greenlandtoday.com +45 4043 7370 nh@rosendahls.dk +45 7610 1156


SEASHOW 2015 - VELKOMMEN OMbOrD

36-38 Grønlands diva Greenland's diva

96-97

Mød Den Intelligente Havn ved SEASHOW 2015 Aalborg Havn ser frem til at mødes om fælles muligheder og samarbejde med uddannelsessøgende og erhvervsliv. Vi er ombord på ”Sarfaq Ittuk” ved SeaShow 2015. Vi ses - takuss!

- stærk på logistik og samarbejde

www.aalborghavn.dk

hotel Narsaq

Meet Greenland 7 The Qilakitsoq Mummies 12 Books 14 2040 Allatta! 17 Emanuel A. Petersen 19 An American Ethnographer in Nuuk 26 Greenland Eyes 32 Greenland’s diva 38 Greenland’s biggest blogger 44 Greenland in a bottle 49 srk exploration in Greenland 51 Top priority on top of the world 58 DYE-2 64 The Sirius Sled Patrol 72 Portrait of a sports enthusiast 78 Sea kayaking in Disko Bay 84 An unusual study trip 90 School visit to M/S Fram 94 Hotel Narsaq 97 Next issue 98 Foto/Photo The Wildanders, Morten Hilmer, Dorthe Ivalo, Toke Brødsgaard, Helle Nørregaard, Malou Media / Martin Madsen, Visit Greenland / David Trood, Bill Lane, lswilson.dewlineadventures.com, Galleri Roar Christiansen, BM-Grafik, Hunter Snyder, Greenland Eyes, Foreningen Grønlandske Børn, Ivalo Frank, Leiff Josefsen, Inuuteq Kriegel, Chris Christophersen, Nicola Linge, Familien Bisgaard, Lars Andersen, Jan Jensen, Sara A. L. Jensen, Peterson Air Force Base, Joanne Castagna, Stella Marco / U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Air Greenland, Ed Stockard, John Jakobsen, Pipaluk Silassen / Inuacare, SRK Exploration, Hotel Narsaq, Jesper Krage, 9A Atuarfik Hans Lynge skolen, Melissa Hansen, Mads Nordlund, greenland today


oplevelser / adventure

Mød Grønland En forfriskende unik tur gennem Grønlands inspirerende og betagende landskaber og forbløffende biodiversitet og møde et med landets inspirerende mennesker Tekst og fotos: The Wildlanders

Vi er en gruppe mennesker, som alle har en stor passion for at rejse og opdage naturens skønhed. Ud af denne passion voksede en smag for eventyr, som førte

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til vores første rejse til Grønland i juli 2014, hvor vi vandrede og sejlede i kajak i fem uger i Sydgrønland. Vi begyndte i Narsaq og omegn, derefter Nanortalik og den vidunderlige Tasermiut fjord, som er kendt for sine granitholdige bjerge. Holdet sluttede rejsen ved Qoorooq gletscheren, som kælver is ned i fjorden. Da vores team bestående af Cédric, Florian og Louis, gik ombord på flyet til Sydgrønland/Kujalleq kunne vi ikke forestille os de mange forskellige

følelser, vi ville opleve i løbet af den måned, vi var der. Omgivet af majestætiske bjerge, ydmyge over gletscherens magi, bevægede af det klare vand, vi krydsede, og yderst inspirerede af folk i Grønland, blev vores hold dybt bevæget af Grønland. Vender tilbage Et tibetansk ordsprog siger, at rejse er at nå tilbage til det, der virkelig betyder noget. Vi havde allerede oplevet, hvor sandt dette kan være gennem de


forskellige ture, vi har rejst individuelt, hvor vi hver især har vandret i forskellige lande og landskaber og opdaget naturens mangfoldighed. Disse erfaringer var baggrunden for, at vi besluttede at kombinere vores erfaringer og tage tilbage til Grønland i år. Denne gang går turen til Ammassalik-området på østkysten med et andet hold. Florian som fotografen, Louis som forfatter og Lucille som både forfatter og læge. Et team, vi kalder »The Wildlanders«. Men hvad er væsentligt? For os er det et fælles ønske om at gøre det bedste, vi kan, for gennem lange gåture at opleve og bevæge os mod det ukendte og efterlade naturen uberørt. Se og dele mere Det er afgørende for os, at de dyrebare steder forbliver vilde og uspolerede, og set i et større perspektiv, at vise stederne for mange flere ved at dele billeder og tekst med resten af verden. Dermed håber vi aldrig at glemme, hvordan der var, da stederne måske ikke er her i fremtiden på grund af konkurrencen om naturressourcerne, den globale opvarmning, osv. Vi besluttede at starte vores projekt med Grønland og lave en fotobog og udstillinger. Billeder fortæller en historie og kan deles med mange i løbet af et par sekunder i vores elektroniske verden. Så det er vores håb, at vi kan vise folk smukke steder på vores planet på den måde, de fortjener at blive set.

Meet Greenland A refreshingly unique tour of Greenland through the inspiring and breathtaking landscapes and astounding biodiversity.

Text and photos: The Wildlanders

We are a group of people, who all have a great passion for travelling and discovering natural beauty. From this grew a taste for adventure which lead us on our first journey to Greenland in July 2014, where we hiked and kayaked for five weeks in the Southern Region. We began in Narsaq and the surrounding area, then travelled to Nanortalik, before reaching the wonderful Tasermiut Fjord, well known for its granite mountains. The team ended the journey at the Qooroq Glacier which poured its ice into the fjord. When we, Cédric, Florian, and Louis, boarded the plane to South Greenland/ Kujalleq, we couldn't have imagined the wide variety of feelings we would experience during the month we were there. We were impressed by the majesty of the mountains, humbled by the glacier's magic, moved by the translucent flow-

ing water we crossed, and truly inspired by the people in Greenland. In other words our team was deeply moved by this country. Coming back A Tibetan proverb says that travelling is a coming back to what is essential. We had already experienced how true this sentence can be, through the different journeys we had taken on our own, wandering through countries and landscapes to discover their multiple faces. Benefitting from those experiences, we decided to combine our knowledge and go back to Greenland this year. This time, it will be to the Ammassalik area on the East coast, with a slightly different team; Florian as the photographer, Louis as the writer, and Lucille as both writer and doctor. We call ourselves »The Wildlanders«.

Se mere på Facebook, Instagram og Twitter. #TheWildlanders Her kan du følge deres opdateringer og kommunikere med holdet! 24 2015

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But what is essential? For us, this is to strive to out-do ourselves in a united effort, discover the world through long walks, moving towards the unknown and leaving the nature untouched. See and share more On a larger scale, it is essential for all of us that the precious places that remain wild and unspoiled are valued, and we

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want to share it through images and text. To keep in mind and never forget the way those places are presently, as they might not be here in the future due to the competition for natural resources, global warming, etc. We decided to start with Greenland with a photography book and exhibitions. Pictures tell a story and can be shared with many in a split-second in

our present-day world. So it is our hope, that we can show people beautiful places on our planet the way they deserve to be seen. Se more on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. #TheWildlanders Follow us for updates and to interact with the team!


Royal Arctic Line Greenlands national shipping line has 路 Ships and equipment designed for Arctic conditions 路 Its own facilities, locations and personnel in 13 Greenlandic harbours 路 Many years of experience with navigating and operating in Arctic waters 24 2015

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historie / history

Qilakitsoq

mumierne Tekst og Foto: Toke Brødsgaard

Det er fascinerende, hvilke fund der gennem tiden er blevet foretaget i Grønland. Fortidslevn som fortæller om en svunden tid. De fleste af disse er blevet opdaget af arkæologer fra Danmark, der har ledt i og omkring bopladser. En speciel rypejagt Et af de mest bemærkelsesværdige fund var dog, da de to rypejægere Hans og Jokum Grønvold i 1972 i et indhug i en klippevæg fandt nogle meget velbevarede mumier. Stedet ligger få hundrede meter fra bopladsen Qilakitsoq, der ligger på Nuussuaq-halvøen nær Uummannaq. Rypejægerne vidste i første omgang ikke, hvad det var, de havde fundet i de to grave. De troede, at de havde fundet ligene af personer, der for nyligt var blevet anbragt på stedet. De meldte derfor straks fundet til politiet. Unikt fund Det var dog langt fra nye lig. Det viste sig, at det unikke fund var ligene af otte mumificerede personer, der var anbragt på stedet flere hundrede år tidligere. Senere undersøgelser foretaget af 10

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Nationalmuseet i Danmark har vist, at mumierne stammer tilbage fra Thulekulturen, og at mumierne er ca. 500 år gamle. Enestående balance i naturen Mumierne var ikke balsamerede, som vi kender det med mumier fra eksempelvis Egypten. Qilakitsoq mumierne var konserveret af naturen selv. Stedet, hvor de er fundet, har en balance af alle de forhold, der har gjort dette muligt. Det er en balance mellem en række afgørende faktorer, såsom luftfugtigheden, surheden, et skyggeområde med næsten konstant frost, en god dræning mellem stenene, og desuden lå mumierne beskyttet af vind og vejr af klippen, de blev fundet op ad. Troede det var en dukke Den bedst bevarede af mumierne er en lille dreng, der skønnes til at have været ca. 6 måneder gammel. Både hår, ansigt, krop og ikke mindst drengens beklædning er meget velbevaret. Da han blev fundet, antog rypejægerne at det var en dukke, da han var så lille og fin. Årsagen til, at netop barnet er

så velbevaret, skyldes i følge museumsfolkene, at han var så lille og derfor hurtigere tørrede ud. Man antager, at barnet enten blev kvalt eller begravet levende, da moderen døede. Dette var på den tid en ikke-usædvanelig hændelse, for at barnet skulle undgå en langsom sultedød. Den 6 måneder gamle dreng var ikke alene om at lide denne død. Dette skønner man ligeledes var tilfældet for den fireårige dreng, der ligeledes er fundet på stedet. Her har man konstateret synlige tegn på, at han led af Downs Syndromet. Også her var der skik for, at man med handicappede børn enten satte dem ud for at dø eller begravede dem levende. Naturlig død De øvrige mumier, der blev fundet, er alle lig af kvinder. Disse skønnes alle at have lidt af forskellige sygdomme, der har forårsaget deres død. Det er sygdomme som nyresten, forstoppelse, svulst og generel dårlig sundhedstilstand. Alle disse kvinder skønnes at have haft en naturlig død som følge af disse sygdomme.


Man har ved DNA-analyser fundet frem til, at der er familiære relationer mellem de forskellige lig. Det skulle være tre søstre omkring 50 år og deres tre døtre på mellem 18 og 30 år og så deres to sønner. Dette giver også meget god mening, da bopladsens indbyggertal ikke skønnes at have været ret stort. Klæderne fortæller om fangstkulturen Det spændende ved mumierne er, at de er så velbevarede. På huden af kvinderne kan man se tatoveringer, der ligeledes er med til at fortælle om nogle af de traditioner, man havde i 1400-tallets Grønland. Klæderne, de bar, er ligeledes i en sådan stand, at man kan se, hvordan disse er fremstillet og ikke mindst, hvilke materialer der blev anvendt. Der var nemlig anvendt meget forskelligartede materialer, såsom skind fra flere typer sæler og ikke mindst fugleskind og fjer. Alle de fundne mumier var klædt godt på, så de var klar på den lange rejse mod dødsriget. Ifølge traditionerne skulle de være beredte på at skulle på fangst i efterlivet. De havde derfor alle både yder- og inderpels på og bar kamikker.

Digital mumie Den bedst bevarede af mumierne, spædbarnet på seks måneder, er den af mumierne, der er blevet undersøgt mindst, da man fysisk har ville bevare både selve mumien og klædedragten bedst muligt. Dette var der dog en løsning på i 2001, da man på det tidspunkt i Nuuk havde anskaffet sig en CT-scanner på hospitalet. Uden at skulle beskadige mumien, kunne man flytte denne og lave nogle scanninger, der kunne bidrage med ny viden. Man kan ved hjælp af de billeder, denne scanning genererede, lave en 3D model af mumien og gennemgå denne fra yderst til inderst.

Oplev mumierne Mumierne kan i dag ses på Grønlands Nationalmuseum og Arkiv i Nuuk, hvor både selve mumierne kan ses og en del af de dragter, der ligeledes blev fundet, er udstillet. Der er en god beskrivelse af, hvordan disse blev fundet og under hvilke omstændigheder. Udstillingen blev for et par år siden moderniseret og præsenterer sig i dag rigtig flot og vidner om den vigtige betydning af dette fund. Kommer man på de kanter, er der ligeledes en udstilling på museet i Uummannaq om fundet, og der er især en meget omfattende gennemgang af de klæder, som mumierne bar. 24 2015

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historie / history

T Mummies he

Qilakitsoq Tekst og Foto: Toke Brødsgaard

Some fascinating finds have been made in Greenland over the years; relics that tell of times past. Most of these relics were found by archaeologists from Denmark when they searched in and around settlements. Unusual grouse hunt One of the most remarkable finds forever, was made in 1972 by two men, Hans and Jokum Grønvold, who were out hunting grouse. They found some very well-preserved mummies in a shallow cave under a rock outcrop. The site is a few hundred metres from the settlement of Qilakitsoq which lies on the Nuussuaq Peninsular near Uummannaq. At first, the grouse hunters did not realise what they had found in the two 12

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graves. They thought they had found the bodies of people who had recently been placed there, so they reported the find immediately to the police. Unique find This, however, was far from being the case. The find proved to be unique; it was the bodies of eight mummified people that had been placed there several hundred years earlier. Later studies undertaken by the National Museum in Denmark showed that the mummies date back to the Thule Culture, and the are about 500 years old. Unique balance with nature The mummies were not embalmed like the mummies we know from e.g. Egypt.

The Qilakitsoq mummies were preserved by nature. The site where they were found has the proper balance of the conditions that made this possible. The balance concerns a series of decisive factors such as humidity, acidity, shade with almost constant frost, good drainage between the rocks and the fact that the mummies were protected from the wind and weather by the outcrop where they were found. Thought it was a doll The most well-preserved of the mummies was a little boy, estimated to have been about six months old. Hair, body and especially the boy’s clothing are very well preserved. When they found him, the grouse hunters thought he was a


Natural death The other mummies that were found were all of women. It is thought that they all died from different illnesses. They had illnesses such as kidney stones, constipation, tumours and bad health in general. All these women are thought to have met natural deaths as a consequence of their bad health. DNA analyses have shown that there is a family connection between the various corpses. There are three sisters of around 50 years of age with their three daughters aged from 18 to 30 years of age and their two sons. This makes sense, since the population of the settlement was probably not very large. doll because he was so small and fine. The museum people believe the infant is so well preserved because he is so small and therefore dried faster. It is thought the child was either smothered or buried alive when the mother died. In those days, it was not an uncommon occurrence, to spare the child a slow death from starvation. The six-month old boy did not suffer this fate alone. It is thought that the same thing happened to a four year old boy who was also found at the site. Here, there are clear indications that he suffered from Downs Syndrome. It was the custom here either to put handicapped children out to die or to bury them alive.

The clothing speaks of a hunting culture The interesting thing about the mummies is that they are so well-preserved. Tattoos that can be seen on the women’s skin also tell of the traditions that existed in Greenland in the 1400s. The condition of the clothing they wore is such that it is possible to see how they were made and, not least, which materials they were made of. Many different materials were used, for example skin from different kinds of seals, bird skins and feathers. All the discovered mummies were well-dressed, ready for their long journey to the underworld. According to tradition, they should be ready to go

hunting in the afterlife. Therefore, of them wore both outer and inner furs and kamikker. Digital mummy The most well-preserved of the mummies, the six month old infant, is the mummy that has been studied least because of the desire to conserve both the mummy and the clothing as much as possible. However, a solution to this dilemma was found in 2001 when Nuuk hospital acquired a CT scanner. Without damaging the mummy, it could be moved and scans could be made that would provide new information. With the aid of the images generated by these scans, it was possible to make a 3D model of the mummy which could be studied from the outside to the inside. See the mummies Today the mummies can be seen at the Greenland National Museum in Nuuk, where they are on display together with some of their clothing. There is a good description of the circumstances under which they were found. The display was modernised a couple of years ago and today it is a really fine exhibit, bearing witness to the importance of this find. If you are in the neighbourhood, the museum of Uummannaq also has an exhibit about the find and, in particular, there is a very comprehensive overview of the clothing worn by the mummies. 24 2015

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bøger / books

Mâliâraq Vebæk Besøg hos Havets Moder Grønlandsk sagn genfortalt for børn. Illustreret af Aka Høegh. Grønlandsk, Dansk, 179 DKK

Tupaarnaq Rosing Olsen Hvalen og Ørnen - og de to små piger Grønlandsk sagn genfortalt for børn. Illustreret af Miki Jacobsen. Grønlandsk, Dansk, 175 DKK Tupaarnaq Rosing Olsen The Whale and the Eagle and the two little girls Greenlandic legend retold for children. Illustrated by Miki Jacobsen. Greenlandic, Danish DKK 175

Tupaarnaq Rosing Olsen Kaassassuk Grønlandsk sagn genfortalt for børn. Illustreret af Miki Jacobsen. Grønlandsk, Dansk, 175 DKK Tupaarnaq Rosing Olsen Kaassassuk Greenlandic legend retold for children. Illustrated by Miki Jacobsen. Greenlandic, Danish DKK 175

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Mâliâraq Vebæk A Visit with the Mother of the Sea Greenlandic legend retold for children. Illustrated by Aka Høegh. Greenlandic, Danish DKK 179

Anngannuujuk Drengen som blev bortført Grønlandsk sagn genfortalt for børn. Illustreret af Kistat Lund Grønlandsk, Dansk, 179 DKK Anngannuujuk The Boy who was kidnapped Greenlandic legend retold for children. Illustrated by Kistat Lund Greenlandic, Danish DKK 179

Kristian Olsen Aaju Uanga * Jeg – Balladen om identiteten II 89 smukke digte om livet, den grønlandske natur og tanker om identitet. Grønlandsk/dansk i samme bog, 198 DKK

Kurt L. Frederiksen Ejnar Mikkelsen - En biografi Historien om sømanden, polarforskeren, embedsmanden, journalisten, forfatteren og drømmeren Ejnar Mikkelsen. Dansk, 299 DKK Kurt L. Frederiksen Ejnar Mikkelsen - A biography The story of seaman, polar explorer, civil servant, journalist, author and dreamer Ejnar Mikkelsen. Danish, DKK 299

BOOKS Susanne Christensen Kajs Grønlandskrønike Magt, håb og kampe på vejen mod det moderne Grønland. Kaj Kleist fortæller om et liv i centrum af grønlandsk politik. Dansk, 269 DKK

bøger Søren Frandsen og Mette Karlsson Vi kommer hjem igen! Dagligliv og drama – Danmarksekspeditionen til Nordøstgrønland 1906-1908. Spændende læsning med bl.a. originale dagbogstekster. Rigt illustreret med fotos og malerier samt tegninger og skitser. Dansk, 399 DKK

Kristian Olsen Aaju Uanga * Me – A Ballad about Identity II 89 beautiful poems about life, nature in Greenland and thoughts about identity. Greenlandic/Danish in the same book, DKK 198

Søren Frandsen and Mette Karlsson We are going home again! Daily life and drama – the Denmark Expedition to Northeast Greenland in 1906-1908. Exciting reading with some original journal entries. Richly illustrated with photos and paintings, as well as drawings and sketches. Danish, DKK 399

Susanne Christensen Kaj’s Chronicles of Greenland Power, hope and struggles on the way to a modern Greenland. Kaj Kleist writes about a life in the middle of politics in Greenland. Danish, DKK 269


Det sker i Kalaallit Illuutaat Events at Greenlandic House

Hans Jakob Helms De Dødes Fjord Spændingsroman, der tager læseren med fra Afrika til Grønland i et fiktivt drama mellem USA, Danmark og Grønland. Dansk, 299 DKK Hans Jakob Helms The Fjord of the Dead Thriller that takes the reader from Africa to Greenland in a fictional drama between the USA, Denmark and Greenland. Danish, DKK 299

Bjarne Ljungdahl Korsveje i Nord Fiktion fra et Grønland i nær fremtid, hvor infrastruktur, teknik og kultur er globaliseret. Dansk, 235 DKK

Lena Lauridsen Inussuk – Pejling mod Grønland En guide til livet i Grønland for de, som overvejer at flytte til landet. Grønlandsk historie, kultur, politik, erhverv, menneskesyn, traditioner, årstider, vejr og klima, infrastruktur samt boligforhold. Forord af Professor Minik Rosing. Kan også købes som ebog på inussuk.info Dansk, 250 DKK

10 forfattere 2040 ALLATTA! Bogen er 10 unge grønlandske forfatteres forestillinger om, hvordan Grønland (og andre dele af verden) ser ud i år 2040 – en fremtid, der kan synes fjern, og så måske alligevel ikke… Grønlandsk/Dansk i samme bog, 249 DKK

Udstillinger / Exhibitions 05. december – 01. februar Anina Hansen, malerier/paintings

05. august – 30. september Lisbeth K. Poulsen, Nuuk, malerier/paintings 06. oktober – 08. december Gukki Nuka, grafiske arbejder/graphic works

10 writers 2040 ALLATTA! The book contains 10 young Greenlandic writers’ notions of how Greenland (and the rest of the world) will look in 2040 - a future that may seem distant, but which is probably not really that far aways. Greenlandic/Danish in the same book, DKK 249

Udstillingerne holder åbent: Mandag til torsdag fra kl. 10 - 17 og fredag fra 10 - 16. Exhibition opening hours: Monday - Thursday from 10 am to 5 pm and Friday from 10 am to 4 pm

Arrangementer / Events 29. august kl. 14 - 17 Kagekonkurrence og kaffemik/ 2pm - 5pm Baking contest and traditional Greenlandic »kaffemik«

Bjarne Ljundahl Northern Crossroads Fictional story about Greenland in the near future where infrastructure, technology and culture are globalised. Danish, DKK 235

bøger

Lena Lauridsen Inussuk – Heading for Greenland A guide to living in Greenland for those who are thinking of moving to the country. Greenlandic history, culture, politics, commerce, view of humanity, traditions, seasons, weather and climate, infrastructure and housing conditions. Foreword by Professor Minik Rosing. Also available as e-book at inussuk.info Danish, DKK 250

09. oktober kl. 18 - 24 Kulturnat med korsang, dokumentarfilm, koncert og mad

Der offentliggøres desuden løbende arrangementer på www.sumut.dk

6pm - 12pm Cultural night with choir, documentary films (in English and Greenlandic), concert and food

Besides the already announced events, we regularly publish events on our website www.sumut.dk

Løvstræde 6 Postbox 1042 DK - 1007 Copenhagen K Tel: 33 381 570

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bøger / books

2040 Allatta! Bliver Grønland en rig olienation? Et diktatur? Er det de traditioner, fremtiden skal bygge på? Er det kun teknologien der udvikler sig?

Tekst: Mads Nordlund. Foto: Helle Nørregaard. Motiv fra omslaget af Gustav Ostermann.

Bogen 2040 Allatta indeholder 10 vindernoveller fra skrivekonkurrencen af samme navn. Allatta! betyder »lad os skrive« og temaet var netop år 2040. Konkurrencen var udskrevet af Nordens Institut (NAPA), Nunatta Atuagaateqarfia, Sorlak og forlaget milik publishing, der også har udgivet bogen. De unge forfattere kommer vidt omkring i deres visioner for, hvordan verden ser ud set fra Grønland om 25 år. Det skinner tydeligt igennem, at Grønland er blevet mere globaliseret via internettet, sociale medier og verdens fokus på blandt andet klimaforandringerne. Det kommer til udtryk i temaer

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som sygdom, krig, klasseforskelle, magtforhold, minedrift, olieudvinding med mere. Der er en generel bekymring for, hvordan de traditionelle værdier kan bevares i fremtiden, og en bekymring om hvordan politikerne vil styre Grønland igennem den forsatte udvikling. Bogen er spændende og indbydende sat op af Ivalu Risager med en visuel teaser på forsiden i form af en fremtidsversion af hovedstaden Nuuk udført af Gustav Ostermann. Til hvert kapitel er en introduktion af forfatteren, der har svaret på en række spørgsmål. Det er en god ide, og man kan ikke lade være med at bladre tilbage efter hver

novelle for at se, hvad det var forfatterne selv mente. Man mærker måske de unges manglende erfaring i nogle af teksterne, men det er kun positivt, da de dermed ikke har ladet sig begrænse af, hvad »erfaringen« og forfatterskolerne dikterer er »den rigtige« måde at fortælle historier på. Det virker forfriskende. Når Grønlands unge har mod på at udtrykke sig, som de gør i bogen, er der håb for både Grønlands litterære fremtid og for alle os læsere, som de her tager med til en tid, hvor de par, der bliver gift i år, holder sølvbryllup.


2040 Allatta! Will Greenland become a rich oil-producing nation? A dictatorship? Should the future be based on traditions? Is it only technology that evolves? Text: Mads Nordlund. Photo: Helle Nørregaard. Motif from the cover by Gustav Ostermann.

»2040 Allatta« is a book containing 10 winning novels from a writing competition of the same name. Allatta! means »let us write« and the theme was the year 2040. The competition was held by the Nordic Institute of Greenland (NAPA), Nunatta Atuagaateqarfia, Sorlak and Milik Publishing, who also published the book. The young writers were wide-ranging in their visions for how the world will look from a Greenlandic perspective 25 years from now. It is clear that Greenland has become more globalised because of the internet, the social media and the world’s focus on climate changes etc. This is expressed in themes

concerning illness, war, class distinction, balance of power, mining, oil extraction etc. There is general concern for how traditional values can be preserved for the future and concern about how the politicians will guide Greenland through its continued development. The book is interesting and invitingly presented by Ivalu Risager, with a visual teaser on the cover in the form of a future version of Nuuk, the capital, made by Gustav Ostermann. Each chapter has an introduction to the writer, who has answered a series of questions. This is a good idea and you cannot help turning back after each novel to read what the writer thinks.

Perhaps the young writers’ lack of experience shines through in some of the novels, but it is positive that they do not let themselves be limited by what »experience« and writer’s schools dictate is »the right« way to tell stories. It is very refreshing. When Greenland’s young people have the courage to express themselves as they do in the book, there is hope for Greenland’s literary future and for all of us readers who are taken into a future where couples who marry this year will be celebrating their silver wedding anniversaries.

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KULTUR / CULTURE

En malerisk

beretning Mange har rejst i Arktis og forsøgt at gengive, hvad de så i ord og malerier. Få har som maleren Emanuel A. Petersen forstået at gengive de helt unikke farver og dybder, der er i den grønlandske natur. Tekst: Mads Nordlund Foto: Galleri Roar Christiansen og BM-Grafik

Siden starten af 1800-tallet har man kendt til at påvirke belagte plader med lys og derefter kemi, så der på pladen var bevaret en sort/hvid gengivelse af motivet, et såkaldt fotografi. Først ca. 100 år senere var teknikken så udviklet, at vi i dag stadig har vidnesbyrd i form at billeder fra dengang. Selvfølgelig flest fra specielle begivenheder og steder med mange mennesker. Når det kommer til Grønland og andre mere øde arktiske egne, har der ikke været mange fotografer før i nyere tid. Malerier er derfor en vigtig brik i en billedlig beskrivelse af fortiden. En af de mest kendte grønlandsmalere fra forrige århundrede er den danske maler Aage Emanuel Petersen, der levede fra 1894 til 1948. Maleruddannelse Faderen var præst og brød sig ikke om sønnens kreative udfoldelser, men det lykkedes Emanuel at komme i lære hos en dekorationsmaler. Som udlært

fik han job på den Kongelige Danske Porcelænsfabrik, hvor han blev lært op af en marinemaler. Det var således som marinemaler, at Porcelænsfabrikken sendte ham af sted til Middelhavet. Hjemme igen fandt den unge Emanuel ingen ro og kvittede sit job for at søge transport på et fragtskib sydpå hos rederiet A.P. Møller Maersk. De havde ingen ture sydpå i nær fremtid, men inviterede ham med på et skib til Vestgrønland, hvilket han takkede ja til. Skæbnen ville således, at han rejste til Grønland for første gang i 1921, og resten er, som man siger, »historie«. Forelsket i Grønland Emanuel blev meget betaget af naturen og farverne i Grønland, hvor han producerede en masse malerier. Fire år senere vendte han tilbage med sin familie, og de boede et års tid i Ilulissat. Her blev hans blik for det helt unikke lys i Grønland skærpet, og han deltog på flere

Aktuel udstilling i Danmark Nordatlantens Brygge i København udstiller 40 af Emanuel A. Petersens malerier frem til den 23. august 2015. Værkerne er indsamlet i samarbejde med Galleri Roar Christiansen i Nuuk, der har lagt et stort arbejde i at samle værkerne til denne helt unikke udstilling.

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hundeslædeture, som alle blev skildret i hans malerier. Sammenlagt tilbragte Emanuel A. Petersen seks år i Grønland i perioden 1921 til 1935 på rejser til de fleste beboede dele af Grønland. Han nærede stor kærlighed til den grønlandske flora og fauna, naturen i det hele taget, menneskene og den store gæstfrihed, han mødte alle steder. Det ses gengivet i mange af malerierne, hvor der ofte er mennesker i forgrunden af de store landskaber, han skildrede. Grønlandsmaleren Emanuel var ikke selv tilfreds med sine første grønlandsmalerier, men fortsatte gennem livet med at forfine stilen og farvegengivelsen. Som dekorations- og marinemaler var han specielt god til at skildre vandet og detaljerne. Han udviklede sig gennem sin karriere fra at være meget naturalistisk til en mere kunstnerisk fri stil, dog altid med


Emanuel A. Petersen.

respekt for farverne og det helt unikke lys i naturen. Hans faglige baggrund kom ham til gode i hans mange skitser, hvor nøjagtige farvekoder gjorde det muligt for ham at male Grønland, selvom han var i Danmark. En af årsagerne til den fortsatte interesse for hans malerier her snart 100 år efter er nok den genkendelse alle, der selv har oplevet Grønlands naturfænomener, føler, når de ser hans malerier. Via sine malerier, der blev vist flere steder ude i verden, blev han en god ambassadør for Grønland. Omkring 2000 malerier blev det til fra en tid uden fotografier af mange af de steder, han besøgte. Dermed fik hans naturtro malerier dengang en betydning i kortlægningen af Grønland og har i dag stor kulturhistorisk værdi som næsten »fotografiske« vidnesbyrd fra en svunden tid.

An Artistic account Many people have travelled in the Arctic and have attempted to describe what they saw in words and pictures, but few of them have understood how to reproduce the unique, rich colours that are found in Greenland’s nature as well as Emanuel A. Petersen. Text: Mads Nordlund. Photo: Galleri Roar Christiansen & BM-Grafik

Since the start of the 1800s, we have known how to expose a plate with a specific surface to light and then to chemicals so that the plate preserved a black/white image of the motif – a so-called photograph. It took 100 years to improve the technique sufficiently to preserve evidence in the form of pictures. Of course most of them are from special events and places with many people. When it comes to Greenland and other, more remote Arctic regions, not many photographs were taken until more recent times. Paintings therefore play an important part in the pictorial description of the past. One of the most well-known Greenlandic artists from the last century is the Danish painter Aage Emanuel Petersen, who lived from 1894 to 1948. House painter His father was a clergyman and did not approve of his son’s creative efforts, but Emanuel managed to become an apprentice house painter. After he

completed his apprenticeship, he got a job at Royal Copenhagen when he was trained by a marine artist. So it was as a marine artist that Royal Copenhagen sent him to the Mediterranean. After returning home, the young Emanuel was unable to settle, so he left his job and tried to find passage southwards on an A.P. Møller Maersk freighter. There were no ships sailing southward in the near future, but he was offered passage on a ship sailing for West Greenland and he accepted. Thus fate took him to Greenland for the first time in 1921 and the rest is, as they say »history«. In love with Greenland Emanuel was enthralled by the nature and colours of Greenland and he produced many paintings. Four years later, he returned with his family and they lived for a year in Ilulissat. Here, his eye for the quite unique light in Greenland was sharpened and he took part in many dog sled trips which were all depicted in his paintings. 24 2015

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In all, Emanuel A. Petersen spent six years in Greenland, from 1921 until 1935, travelling to most of the inhabited places in Greenland. He had a great love of Greenlandic flora and fauna, nature, the people and the great hospitality he met everywhere. This is seen in many of the great landscapes he painted, where there are often people in the foreground. Greenland artist Emanuel was not satisfied with his first paintings of Greenland, but he continued throughout his life to refine his

style and colour representation. As a decoration and marine artist he was particularly good at depicting the water and the details. He continued to develop throughout his career, from being very natural in style to using a freer artistic style, but always with respect for the colours and the quite unique light found in nature. His training was of great benefit with regard to his many sketches where precise colour codes made it possible for him to paint pictures of Greenland, even though he was in Denmark. Here almost 100 years afterwards, one of the

Present exhibition in Denmark Nordatlantens Brygge (North Atlantic House) in Copenhagen has an exhibition with forty of Emanuel A. Petersen’s paintings which is open until August 23rd 2015. The paintings have been collected in collaboration with Galleri Roar Christiansen in Nuuk, which has worked hard to bring together the works in this quite unique exhibition. 20

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reasons for the continued interest for his paintings is probably the recognition everyone who has experienced Greenland’s natural phenomena feels, when they see his paintings. His paintings were exhibited in several countries around the world, making him a good ambassador for Greenland. He painted about 2,000 paintings of many of the places he visited. This was from a time where there were no photographs, so his naturalistic paintings were significant for documenting Greenland. Today they have great cultural value as almost »photographic« witnesses of times past.


Besøg os i hjertet af København eller på www.sumut.dk Kalaallit Illuutaat - Det Grønlandske Hus i København byder året rundt på en række kulturelle arrangementer

Mødelokale m. plads til ca. 25 personer. Som foredragslokale er der plads til ca. 45 personer.

Udstillinger Debatter Koncerter Bogpræsentationer Kulinariske aftener Kulturel rådgivning m. m.

Enkeltmandskontor med tilhørende pc, printer m.v. kan lejes på dags- eller ugebasis. Adgang til huset 24 timer i døgnet.

Der er desuden en boghandel med et bredt udvalg af bøger om Grønland og et galleri med mulighed for kunstkøb. Der ydes derudover information og vejledning om nutidige grønlandske forhold.

Udstyr: Panelmikrofoner Projektor Fjernsyn Videokonferrenceudstyr Internetforbindelse

Det store lokale (Ajamut) i stueetagen kan lejes i weekenden og på hverdage efter kl. 17.00 til møder m.m. Plads til 50-70 personer.

Kontakt:

Videokonference fra alle lokaler!

Et stykke Grønland i Danmark

DGH kan være behjælpelig med grønlandsk inspireret mad i forbindelse med møder, arrangementer m.m. .

lokaler@sumut.dk eller, Susanne Jensen 33381580

Løvstræde 6, Postboks 1042, 1007 København K Tlf. +45 33 91 12 12, Fax +45 33 15 75 90 www.sumut.dk email: lokaler@sumut.dk

www.iceandwater.gl

With ten per cent of the world’s freshwater reserves – the Government of Greenland is focusing on the potential for exporting Greenlandic water for thirsty European palates and Arctic inland ice for their drinks. To read more about Greenlands ice take a look at www.iceandwater.gl

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erhverv / business

Hunter Snyder.

Fakta Alder: 25 Uddannelse: M.Sc. Antropologi (Univ. Oxford), B.Sc. Film / Antropologi (Drexel)

En amerikansk etnograf i Nuuk Tekst: greenland today. Foto: Hunter Snyder og Malou Media

Den amerikanske Hunter Snyder er antropolog indenfor fiskeri. Han flyttede til Nuuk i oktober 2014 og har planer om at forfølge en karriere indenfor socialviden-

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skab og fiskeriteknologi i form af en ph.d. - Jeg nyder meget at være her, og de undersøgelser, jeg laver, er uhyre spændende, siger han.

- Jeg begyndte mit feltarbejde med interesse for de oprindelige erhverv som f.eks. fiskeri, selvom jeg kom midt i udviklingen af Grønlands spirende mineindustri. På grund af rigelige mængder af jernmalm på verdensmarkedet i 2014, var forventningerne til jernudvindingsprojektet »Isua« ikke indfriet. Mit feltarbejde udviklede sig derfor til en mere intensiv undersøgelse af fiskeriet i og omkring Nuuk Fjord.

Stipendium - Mit feltarbejde i Grønland er blevet støttet af National Science Foundation, Fulbright, National Geographic Society og American-Scandinavian Foundation, som finansierer organisationer, der støtter unge forskere. - Det dækker rejse, ophold, overnatning, mad og nogle understøttende materialer, så jeg kan dedikere tid til at skrive, udføre mit feltarbejde


samt redigere filmoptagelser, som er en del af min forskning og i sidste ende dele mine resultater med det videnskabelige samfund og offentligheden. Feltarbejde i Buksefjorden - En af de måder, jeg har været i stand til at observere og konkludere, hvad det oprindelige levebrød muligvis er i det moderne Grønland, var ved at bruge tid med de mænd, der arbejder for Nu-

kissiorfiit/Grønlands energiforsyning. Nukissiorfiit har bygget et imponerende vandkraftværk syd for Nuuk, som forsyner hele byen. De mænd, der arbejder her som elektrikere og maskinarbejdere, lever i en blanding af fuldtidsarbejde og fritid brugt på jagt og fiskeri. Dette var en god introduktion til jagt og fiskeri fra et rekreativt perspektiv, som fortsat er særdeles vigtigt i Grønland.

- Et af resultaterne fra mit Fulbright år i Grønland er en dokumentarfilm kaldet »Sarfarniat«, om disse specielle »vandkraft-operatører« og deres blandede levebrød. - Ilisimatusarfik/Grønlands Universitet inviterede mig til at lave en filmforevisning der, og at dømme efter den feedback, jeg modtog bagefter, blev filmen godt modtaget.

Projekter og mål -Tiden blandt de mænd, der arbejder der, har lært mig meget om fiskeri som levebrød i en mindre skala og fiskeriets udvikling på de små åbne både og kystnære kommercielle fartøjer, der fisker i og omkring Nuuk Fjord. - Under filmproduktionen blev jeg interesseret i traditionel viden om fiskeri og forvaltning af fiskeriet, forklarer Hunter.

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Hunter tilbringer mange dage i små både og studerer fiskeriet. Hunter spend many days on small boats studying the fishery.

- At sejle med fuldtidsjollefiskere var en øjenåbner. De delte gladeligt ud af deres viden om havets levende ressourcer og deres egen teknologiske tilpasning. Deres åbenhed og villighed til at tale om deres levebrød gjorde mig meget interesseret i at fortsætte mit arbejde med dem. Mange af samtalerne har inspireret mig til den retning, mit studie har taget. Jeg har haft mange gode samtaler ombord på joller. Ofte frysende, men også i fiskernes hjem med deres familier, eller

når de ordner deres langliner i det kommunale værksted og på havnen. - Grønland er et inspirerende sted, hvor oprigtig nysgerrighed bliver taget seriøst. Jeg føler mig heldig at arbejde i Grønland, og jeg håber meget at blive her. - Efter at mit feltarbejde skiftede til fiskeri, er jeg begyndt at skrive om den meget moderne udgave af kammuslingkniven, som konstant ændres for at reducere ømhed og smerter i kroppen som følge af de skiftende

Kammuslingkniven. Scallop knife.

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størrelser af kammuslinger, som findes syd for Nuuk. - Jeg er også i gang med at skrive om videnskab, teknologi og regulering af madfællesskab og madsikkerhed sammen med Natuk Olsen på universitetet i Grønland. - Sidst på sommeren tager min forskningspartner Ulunnguaq Markussen og jeg til Qeqertarsuatsiaat/Fiskenæsset for at bo og arbejde. Vi planlægger at lave en undersøgelse om levevilkårene med særlig vægt på, hvordan jollefiskeriet er påvirket af den nærliggende Aappaluttoq rubinmine, der drives af True North Gems Greenland. - Jeg arbejder også på andre projekter, såsom det potentielle søpindsvinfiskeri i Grønland, og hvordan Grønland kan bruge FOAs (FN/'s madog landbrugsorganisation) retningslinjer indenfor det kystnære fiskeri i mindre skala. Grønland - Jeg elsker at tilbringe tid i naturen, der aldrig er langt væk, uanset hvor man er i Grønland.

- En af de mest bemærkelsesværdige ting, jeg oplever i Grønland, er, at hvis du viser en oprigtig interesse i mennesker, vil de ikke kun forsøge at besvare dine spørgsmål, men ofte ønske at hjælpe dig på alle mulige måder, siger Hunter. - Jeg nyder virkelig, at Grønland tillader mig at være nysgerrig. Generelt deler folk deres viden og er åbne for samarbejde, tilføjer han. - Jeg er især taknemmelig for, hvordan man deler maden her i Grønland, og for de mange positive og lærerige samtaler jeg har haft med folk til kaffemiks og middage. - Der er så meget at lave i Nuuk, og jeg er sjældent alene. Folk er meget åbne, og hvis du ønsker at møde nogen, ringer du bare og arrangere en tid til at mødes. - Folk er utroligt venlige og hjælpsomme, slutter Hunter Snyder, som efter at have taget sin ph.d. i Grønland håber på at bo og arbejde i landet.


TiL LandS, TiL VandS Med foRnUfTen Maskinmesterskolen København bygger på en stærk maritim tradition og indgår i partnerskab med førende maritime og industrielle virksomheder – både til lands og til vands. Vi har et stort internationalt netværk og samarbejder med en række udenlandske universiteter, bl.a. Shanghai Maritime University.

Vi fokuserer på høj faglighed, følger den teknologiske udvikling og tilpasser løbende uddannelsen til erhvervslivets behov. Resultatet er maskinmestre, der skaber resultater til lands, til vands og alle andre steder, hvor der er behov for dygtige folk til drift og ledelse af tekniske anlæg.

Læs mere på www.msk.dk

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erhverv / business

scientific community and the public.

An American

Ethnographer in Nuuk Text: greenland today, Photos: Hunter Snyder and Malou Media

The American Hunter Snyder is an anthropologist of fisheries. He moved to Nuuk in October 2014 and plans to pursue a career in the social science and technology of fisheries by way of a PhD. - I enjoy being here a lot, and the study I am doing is tremendously exciting, he says. - I began my fieldwork with an interest in indigenous livelihoods (i.e. fishing) amid the development of Greenland’s nascent mining industry. Following the iron ore surplus of 2014, the prospects of the ISUA project moving forward seemed immediately unlikely, and my fieldwork grew to consider a more intensive study 26

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of fishing in and around the Nuuk Fjord. Scholarship - My fieldwork in Greenland has been supported by the National Science Foundation, Fulbright, the National Geographic Society and the American-Scandinavian Foundation, which are funding bodies that support young scholars’ research. - It covers travel, residence, accommodation, food and some supporting materials so I can dedicate the time to write, carry out my fieldwork, edit the media that is part of my research and ultimately share my findings with the

Initial Fieldwork in Buksefjorden -One of the ways I have been able to think critically about what indigenous livelihoods might be in contemoprary Greenland was to spend time among the men who work for NUKISSIORFIIT, Greenland’s energy utility. Nukissiorfiit has built a remarkable hydroelectric power facility south of Nuuk that powers the entire city, and the men who work there as electricians and machinists also engage in a common mixture of full-time work and parttime hunting and fishing. This was a great introduction to hunting and fishing from a recreational perspective, which remains especially important in Greenland. - As a result, one of the outputs from my Fulbright year in Greenland is a feature film called Sarfarniat, about these special hydropower operators and their mixed livelihoods. - The University of Greenland invited me to make a film screening there, and judging by the feedback afterwards, it was well received. Projects and Directions -Since my time among the

men who work in this remote location, I have learned the very most about small scale fishing livelihoods and development among the small open boats and inshore commercial vessels that fish in and around the Nuuk Fjord. -Through the proces of filmmaking, I became interested in traditional knowledge about fishing and fisheries management, Hunter explains. - Sailing with full-time small scale fishers is an eyeopening experience. The amount of knowledge shared about living marine resources, their technological adaptation and their interest in speaking about their livelihoods give me great interest in continuing to work among them. Many of the several directions I have taken have emerged from intimate and often freezing conversations aboard small boats, but also in fishers’ homes with their families, among them as they bait longlines in the municipal workshop and in the harbor. - Greenland is an inspiring place where genuine curiosity seems to be taken seriously. I feel extremely lucky to be able to work in Greenland and I very much hope to stay here. - After my initial fieldwork shifted toward fishing, I have begun writing a paper on the


American Hunter Snyder in Greenland. Amerikaneren Hunter Snyder i Grønland.

highly adaptive scallop knife, which is constantly reshaped to reduce aches and pains in the body and as a result of the changing sizes of the scallops dredged south of Nuuk. - I am also writing a paper about the science, technology and regulation of food sharing and security with Natuk Olsen at the University of Greenland. - Toward the end of this summer, my research partner Ulunnguaq Markussen and I plan to live and work in the settlement of Qeqertarsuatsiaat/Fiskenæsset where we plan to introduce a living conditions survey with a special emphasis on how small scale fishing operatons have developed as a result of the nearby Aappaluttoq ruby mine operated by True North Gems Greenland. - There are several other projects I am also working on, from the prospective sea urchin fishery in Greenland, to how Greenland may derive value from the UN Food and Agricultural Organization’s Small Scale Fisheries Guidelines. Greenland - I love spending time in Greenland’s nature, which is never far from us. - One of the most remarkable things that I realized about people in Greenland,

are that if you show a genuine interest in people, they not only try to answer your questions, but they often want to help you anyway they can, says Hunter. - I really enjoyed that Greenland allowed me to be curious. In generel, people share their knowledge and are open to cooperation, he adds. - I am especially thankful for how common food sharing is in Greenland, and for the many illuminating conversations I have had with people over kaffemiks and dinners. - There is so much to do in Nuuk and I am rarely alone. People are very open, and if you want to meet somebody, you just call and arrange a time to meet up. - People are incredibly friendly and helpful, ends Hunter Snyder, who, after making his PhD in Greenland, hopes to live and work in Greenland.

Facts Age: 25 Education: M.Sc. Anthropology (Univ. Oxford), B.Sc. Film/Anthropology (Drexel)

Hydropower operator Jens Bjerge, using his sparetime on fishing, hunting and training for triathlon.

Vandkrafttekniker Jens Bjerge bruger sin fritid på fiskeri, jagt og træner til triathlon.

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kultur / culture

Greenland Eyes

International Film Festival

Udstilling ISI/EYE/ØJE Det Samiske Parlament, Inari, Finland Exhibition ISI / EYE / EYE The Sami Parliament, Inari, Finland

Greenland Eyes er en filmfestival med grønlandsk fokus, der er afholdt ni forskellige steder i Norden og i Tyskland og USA. Resultatet er et fantastisk stykke kultur-, oplysnings- og turismearbejde for Grønland. Tekst: Mads Nordlund, Foto: Greenland Eyes

Greenland Eyes Film Festival viser film fra og om Grønland. Desuden har der efter filmforevisningerne været spørgetid med bl.a. instruktører og skuespillere, hvilket har givet publikum en unik chance for at få afklaret spørgsmål om Grønland. Idemageren Bag Greenland Eyes står Ivalo Frank, der selv er filmmager og til hverdag bor i Berlin. - Grønland har betydet særligt meget for mig, fordi det er her, jeg er født. Jeg føler et stort tilhørsforhold til landet, til naturen og til de mange mennesker, jeg elsker her, forklarer hun. - Grønland vil altid være i mit hjerte, og derfor vil jeg gerne fremme grønlandsk 28

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kultur og film med en filmfestival. - I 2012 foregik festivalen i Berlin som et af det danske EU-formandskabs kulturprojekter. Siden har projektet vokset sig større, og vi har skabt et fantastisk godt team af medarbejdere, så festivalen i 2014 kunne turnere fra august til december mellem ni forskellige steder i Norden. Nuuk, København, Torshavn, Runavik, Reykjavik, Stockholm, Rovaniemi, Inari og Oslo. Det blev til 149 filmvisninger, spørgetid med filmskaberne, 18 koncerter med grønlandske og nordiske bands, otte kunstudstillinger og adskillige performances, symposier og events.

Organisation og netværk Greenland Eyes arrangerede festivalen i tæt samarbejde med lokale institutioner. Inden festivalstart i hvert land rejste Greenland Eyes-teamet til stedet for at forberede festivalen og mødes med pressen. - Vi samarbejdede med kunstnere, eksperter og fagfolk fra hele Norden, og det var ekstremt inspirerende. Desuden inviterede vi både grønlandske og nordiske kunstnere med på turneen, så der opstod personlig udveksling, netværk og kontakt. Det resulterede i mange nye venskaber og større forståelse for vores fælles nordiske historie. Musikere spillede sammen på tværs af nationaliteter, og der var god debat ved hver enkelt film, fortæller Ivalo. - En af de største udfordringer var at organisere i så mange lande, men vi havde et fantastisk samarbejde med nordiske institutioner. Her vil jeg gerne fremhæve Katuaq

i Grønland, Det Grønlandske Hus i København, Det Nordiske hus i Torshavn og Filmens Hus i Oslo samt alle de involverede, der støttede projektet. - Ord rækker ikke til at beskrive den venlighed og imødekommenhed, vi har oplevet. Der er et kæmpe potentiale i trans-nordiske projekter og en enorm lyst til at lære hinanden bedre at kende og samarbejde mere. - Vi havde mange bolde i luften, og det krævede stor arbejdsdiciplin. Til gengæld føler vi, at Grønlands kultur virkelig er blevet belyst og formidlet både i dybden og i bredden. Grønland tættere på Norden - Vi har fået overvældende feedback, ikke mindst fra de implicerede kunstnere og publikum, der udtrykte, at festivallen bl.a. har udbredt kendskabet til Grønland. - Der er mange mennesker i Norden, der nu har et mere


Fuldt hus til den første visning i Danmark af »Sumé - Lyden af en revolution«, DFI Full house for the first view in Denmark of »Sumé - The sound of a Revolution«, DFI

nuanceret indblik i, hvad Grønland er i dag, og hvilken historie landet har. En film som den grønlandsk-svenske »Prize of the Pole« har sat mange tanker i gang omkring USA’s indflydelse i Grønland, racepolitik dengang og i dag. - Mange nordiske gæster sagde, at de føler sig »nærmere« Grønland, og at de føler en større forståelse for grønlandske problematikker. - I Grønland udtrykte mange gæster, at festivalen gav dem selvtillid og en tro

på Grønland og fremtiden. I Danmark udtrykte mange danskere overraskelse over kvaliteten af de grønlandske produktioner og mængden af dem. Desuden sagde mange af de deltagende kunstnere, at festivalen har fået dem til at tro på, at de kan gøre sig internationalt. Formålet med Greenland Eyes - Vi skabte festivalen i 2012, fordi der var et ekstremt stort fokus på Grønland i de internationale medier, men

mangel på reel indsigt i landet. Der manglede information om, hvad grønlænderne selv mente om deres land, og hvordan de så fremtiden, med eller uden olie, med eller uden kinesere o.s.v. Derfor inviterede vi filmskaberne til Berlin, så der kunne starte en dialog med et internationalt publikum. Det blev en enorm success med kæmpe pressedækning. - I 2014 var situationen en anden, og Grønland havde forandret sig, både internt og i de internationale

mediers øjne. Grønland er i højere grad blevet et land blandt andre lande, og ikke »kun« et eksotisk sted i Arktis. Derfor gik vi i dybden med Grønland i et nordisk perspektiv. Hvad betyder Grønland for Norge, som jo engang var »med-koloniherre« over Grønland? Hvad med Samerne og Inuit – er der nogen relationer? - I maj 2015 var Greenland Eyes inviteret til Washington for at udstille og vise film på verdens største museum; The Smithsonian National Muse-

Inuk. Instruktør Mike Magidson

Filmtest af instruktør Rune Bundgaard, Martin Svinkløv og festivaldirektør Ivalo Frank. Film Test by director Rune Bundgaard, Martin Svinkloev and festival director Ivalo Frank. 24 2015

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På Københavns Universitet kom den dansk-norske forfatter Kim Leine med nogle solide indspark til debatten om hvorfor, der skal forsoning til. At Copenhagen University the Danish-Norwegian writer provided some very relevant input in the discussion, arguing for reconciliation.

Liste over Greenland Eyes partnere Arsenal Biograf, Humboldt Universitet Berlin, Danske Ambassade i Tyskland, HBC (DE), Katuaq Kulturhus, Nuuk Center, Nebula, Grønlands Universitet (GL), Det danske Filminstitut, Københavns Universitet, Nordatlantens Brygge, Det Grønlandske hus (DK), Nordisk hus, Runavik bibliotek (FO), Nordisk hus (IS), Danske ambassade, Tellus Biograf, Koncertstedet Landet (SE), Danske ambassade, Det samiske parlament, University of Lapland, The Jazz and Joik Club (FI), Danske ambassade, Det Norske Filminstitut, The Oslo School of Architecture and Design, Victoria Nasjonal Jazzscenen (NO), The Smithsonian National Museum, Danish Embassy of the United States, Greenland Representation in the USA. 30

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um, der er nabo til Det Hvide Hus. Det skete i forbindelse med at USA overtog formandsskabet i Arctic Council. Her var Greenland Eyes’ fokus så vidt muligt at påvirke de beslutninger, der vil blive taget om Arktis i de næste to år ved at give Grønland og Arktis et menneskeligt ansigt via film. Der var fuldt hus på Smithsonian National Museum og 5.000 besøgende til filmvisningerne på Grønlands Repræsentation/Den Danske Ambassade i Washington. Hvad film kan - Film er en kommunikationsform. Det er en måde at vise aspekter af livet, som ikke er i fokus eller trænger til fornyet fokus, mener Ivalo. - Jeg arbejder med film, fordi det er det udtryksmiddel, hvor jeg kommunikerer bedst. Film kan give et følelsesmæssigt indblik i nogle situationer, som utallige ord ikke kan. - I forbindelse med Green-

land Eyes 2012 blev fokus f.eks. rettet mod menneskene bag de store overskrifter om oliefund m.m. Fokus kom tilbage til mennesket og til det essentielle; Hvordan vil vi leve som mennesker? Hvad er vigtigt? - I 2014 blev der løst op for nogle tabuer. Der blev snakket kolonitid, forsoning eller ikke forsoning, bl.a. på festivalens symposium »Tanker om forsoning« på Københavns universitet med Jens Heinrich, Jessie Kleemann, Iben Mondrup, Aka Hansen og Kim Leine. Det skabte en spændende debat om kendskab og ignorance i forhold til hinanden og vores fælles forog nutidshistorie. - Mange steder i Norden oplevede vi nærmest en lettelse fra publikum som den forløsning, der sker, når der endelig bliver taget hul på et tabu. - Samlet set er vi ikke i tvivl om, at Greenland Eyes har gjort en forskel, slutter Ivalo Frank.

Nive Nielsen and the Deer Children koncert, i Victoria Nasjonal Jazzscene. Nive Nielsen and the Deer Children concert, in Victoria Nasjonal Jazzscene.


Nuuk Nordisk Kulturfestival d. 21. – 25. oktober 2015 Kom og vær med til at fejre nordisk kultur når vi inviterer en række nordiske kunstnere til at sætte gang i gaden og i publikum, som sangeren Teitur, hiphopkunstneren Cici Henriksen, danse- og teatergruppen Panta Rei, sangerinden Nina Kreutzmann Jørgensen og mange flere Se meget mere om Nuuk Nordisk Kulturfestival 2015 på facebook/nuuknordisk, napa.gl/nuuknordisk og #nuuknordisk Nuuk Nordic Cultural Festival, 21st – 25th of October 2015 Come and join us in celebrating Nordic culture in a brand new way when we are inviting a number of Nordic artists to entertain and engage the audience; amongst others the singer Teitur, the hiphop artist Cici Henriksen, the dance- and theater troupe Panta Rei, the singer Nina Kreutzmann Jørgensen and many more Learn more about Nuuk Nordic Cultural Festival 2015 on facebook/nuuknordisk, napa.gl/nuuknordisk and #nuuknordisk 24 2015

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K AT U A Q


kultur / culture

»SOS Eisberg«. Directed by / Instruktør Arnold Fanck.

The village at the end of the world. Directed by / Instruktører David Katznelson and / og Sarah Gavron.

Greenland Eyes International Film Festival

Greenland Eyes is a film festival with Greenlandic focus. It takes place in nine different locations in the Nordic countries as well as in Germany and the USA. The result is a fantastic piece of cultural and awareness-raising work, promoting tourism in Greenland. Text: Mads Nordlund, Photo: Greenland Eyes

Greenland Eyes film festival shows films from and about Greenland. After the showings there were panels with the directors and actors, giving the public a unique opportunity to clarify any questions about Greenland.

The Innovator Behind Greenland Eyes is Ivalo Frank, a filmmaker who lives in Berlin. - Greenland is special to me, because I was born there. I have a strong sense of belonging to the country, to its na-

ture and to the many people I love there, she explains. - Greenland will always be in my heart and this is why I want to promote Greenlandic culture and films with a festival.

Julia Pars, direktør for kulturhuset Katuaq åbner Greenland Eyes 2014, i Nuuk. Julia Pars, director of Katuaq culture center opens Greenland Eyes 2014 in Nuuk. 32

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- In 2012 the festival took place in Berlin, as one of the Danish EU Presidency’s culture projects. Since then, it has grown bigger and we have built a really good team of employees. In 2014 the festival was therefore able to tour from August to December in nine different locations in the Nordic countries: Nuuk, Copenhagen, Torshavn, Runavik, Reykjavik, Stockholm, Rovaniemi, Inari and Oslo. There were 149 showings and panels with film makers, 18 concerts with Greenlandic and Nordic bands, eight art exhibitions and many performances, symposiums and events. Organization and network Greenland Eyes arranged the


Sumé – Lyden af en revolution / The sound of a revolution. Instruktør / Director Inuk Silis Høegh. »Sumé – The Sound of a Revolution«. Directed by Inuk Silis Høegh.

The poster with a programme from the Smithsonian and the Greenlandic Representation in Washington. Photo Klaus Egede, from Pipaluk Lykke Løgstrup’s photo project ISI/EYE/ØJE. Plakaten med program fra Smithsonian og Den grønlandske Repræsentation i Washington. Foto Klaus Egede, fra Pipaluk Lykke Løgstrups fotoprojekt ISI/EYE/ØJE.

festival in close collaboration with local institutions. In each country, before the festival started, the Greenland Eyes team visited the site to prepare the festival and to meet with the press. - We worked together with artists, experts and professionals from all the Nordic countries and it was very inspiring. In addition, we invited Greenlandic and Nordic artists to join the tour which resulted in personal exchanges, networking and making contacts. Many new friendships were made and it provided a greater understanding for our common Nordic history. Musicians played together across nationalities and there was a good

discussion in connection with each film, says Ivalo. - One of the greatest challenges was organizing so many different countries, but the cooperation of the Nordic institutions was fantastic. Here, I would like to mention especially Katuaq in Greenland, Greenland House in Copenhagen, Nordic House in Torshavn and Filmens Hus in Oslo as well as all those involved who supported the project. - Words cannot describe the friendliness and kindness we have experienced. There is a huge potential in trans-Nordic projects and an enormous desire to get to know each other better and to collaborate more. - We had a lot going on and it required a great deal

of work discipline. In return, we feel that a broad section of Greenlandic culture has been presented in depth. Greenland closer to the Nordic countries - We have received overwhelming feedback, not least from the involved artists and the public, who felt that the festival had spread awareness of Greenland. - There are many people in the Nordic countries who now have a broader insight into what Greenland is today and into the history of the country. A film like the Greenlandic/Swedish »Prize of the Pole« has provoked thoughts about the USA’s influence in Greenland and about racial politics, past and present.

- Many Nordic guests said that they felt »closer« to Greenland and that they had a greater understanding of Greenlandic problems. - In Greenland, many guests said that the festival gave them self-confidence and a belief in a future for Greenland. In Denmark, many Danes expressed surprise at the quality of the Greenlandic productions as well as the quantity. Furthermore, many of the participating artists said that the festival had given them faith in their ability to succeed internationally. The purpose of Greenland Eyes - We created the festival in 2012, because there was a 24 2015

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Nuummioq. Directed by/ Instruktører Otto Rosing and / og Torben Bech.

Actor Makka Kleist, Film director Otto Rosing and film festival organizer Ivalo Frank.

The Sledge Patrol. Directed by / Instruktør Sandra Skibsted.

Ivalo Frank.

List of Greenland Eye’s partners Arsenal Biograf, Humboldt University Berlin, Danish Embassy in Germany, HBC (DE), Katuaq Culture Centre, Nuuk Centre, Nebula, University of Greenland (GL), The Danish Film Institute, Copenhagen University, North Atlantic House, The Greenlandic House (DK), Nordic House, Runavik library (FO), Danish Embassy (FO), Nordic House (IS), Danish Embassy (IS), Tellus Biograf, Koncertstedet Landet (SE), Danish Embassy (SE), the Sami Parliament, University of Lapland, The Jazz and Joik Club (FI), Danish Embassy (FI), The Norwegian Film Institute, The Oslo School of Architecture and Design, Victoria Nasjonal Jazzscenen (NO), The Smithsonian National Museum, Danish Embassy of the United States, Greenland Representation in the USA.

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Skuespiller Makka Kleist, Filminstruktør Otto Rosing og filmfestivalens arrangør Ivalo Frank.

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strong focus on Greenland in the international media, but a lack of true insight into the country. There was a lack of information about what Greenlanders thought about their own country, how they saw the future, with or without oil, with or without the Chinese, etc. So we invited film makers to Berlin in order to start a dialog with an international public. It was an enormous success with huge press coverage. - In 2014 the situation was different and Greenland had changed, both internally and in the eyes of the international press. To a higher extent, Greenland had become a country like other countries and not »just« an exotic place in the Arctic. For this reason, we probed deeply into Greenland from a Nordic perspective. What does Greenland mean to Norway, once a »joint-colonial ruler« over Greenland? What about the Sami and the Inuit – is there any relationship? - In May 2015 Greenland Eyes was invited to Washington to exhibit and show films

at the biggest museum in the world; The Smithsonian National Museum, which is neighbour to the White House. This took place in connection with the USA taking over the presidency of the Arctic Council. Here, Greenland Eyes’ focus was on having as much influence as possible on the decisions that will be taken concerning the Arctic in coming years, by using the films to give Greenland and the Arctic a human face. It was full house at the Smithsonian National Museum and there were 5,000 visitors to the film shows at the Greenland Representation/Danish Embassy in Washington. What film can do - Film is a form of communication. It is a way to show aspects of life that are not in focus or which require renewed focus, believes Ivalo. - I work with film because it is the form of expression through which I communicate best. Film can provide an emotional insight into certain situations, that it is

not possible to do, even with many words. - In connection with Greenland Eyes 2012, the focus was on the people behind the big headlines about oil discoveries etc. The focus was back on people and the essential questions: How will we live as people? What is important? - In 2014 some taboos became less restrictive. Colonial times were discussed reconciliation or not reconciliation – at the festival’s symposium »Thoughts on reconciliation« at Copenhagen University. It resulted in an exciting discussion about knowledge and ignorance compared to each other and our common history, past and present. - In many places in the Nordic countries we experienced almost relief on the part of the public, like the closure that comes when a taboo finally becomes less strict. - All in all, we have no doubt that Greenland Eyes has made a difference, ends Ivalo Frank.


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Aeon Rocket. New pendant light designed by Morten Voss For further information please visit www.lightyears.com

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foto / Photo: nuka bisgaard

portræt / portrait

foto / Photo: nuka bisgaard

Nuuk Gay Pride 2012 - Britney Spears impersonator, Derrick Barry, Nuka Bisgaard & Manager Michael Benedetti.

Det kræver mod at skille sig ud – og især når man gør det for fuld udblæsning. Det er netop det, man møder hos den nu 24 årige Nuka Bisgaard – også kendt under navnet Nuka Tha Diva. Nuka har en dansk mor og en grønlandsk far. Nuka blev født som dreng, men føler sig som kvinde, og omtales derfor i resten af artiklen som hun. Hun var tidligt klar over, at hun ikke var som de fleste. Nuka følte sig ikke hjemme i sin egen krop og blev ikke tiltrukket af piger. Efter i lang tid at have søgt at finde ro i sig selv nåede hun frem til, at hun føler sig mere som kvinde. Når man i dag møder Nuka er det derfor i kvindetøj. Nuka er ofte set på den 36

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røde løber i flotte kjoler og med fuld makeup. Senest til erhvervskonferencen Future Greenland, hvor Nuka var med til at fremvise flotte designs fra Nuuk Couture. Nuka the filmmaker Nuka repræsenterer på mange måder et udtryk for »Det nye Grønland«. En generation, der gør op med normen og prøver nye grænser af. Hun har gennem sin kamp mødt meget modstand fra folk med konservative holdninger. Denne sommer er Nuka aktuel med filmen Eskimo Diva, en dokumentarfilm om Nukas liv. Den viser Nukas kamp, dels med sig selv, men også med samfundet for at opnå en anerkendelse

Halloween: Nuka lægger makeup på sig selv.

Halloween: Nuka applies his own make-up.

og en accept af, hvem hun er. Filmen har været seks år undervejs og giver derfor et meget bredt billede af den udvikling, der er sket med Nuka i denne periode. Det har været en turbulent tid fyldt med store begivenheder i hendes liv. Bedst kendt er Nuka nok for at være initiativtager og arrangør af den årligt tilbagevendende begivenhed Gay Pride i Nuuk, der har fået mange på gaden for at vise, de bakker op om homoseksuelle. Hun har kæmpet med kræft og forsøgt sig som politisk kandidat for partiet Demokraterne.

forbindelse med fremvisning af filmen har været indbudt til debat om homoseksualitet. Der har i hele Grønland været meget stor interesse for filmen. Der har været en god og konstruktiv debat med gode spørgsmål og gode drøftelser. Nuka tager dette som en stor anerkendelse af hende som person, men også som udtryk for, at Grønland er nået til en bredere accept af folk, der skiller sig ud og tør stå ved det, selvom der også har været kritikere. Filmen er et vigtigt stykke samtidshistorie og dokumenterer ikke alene Nuka Bisgaards liv, men også et øjebliksbillede af et Grønland i forsat udvikling. Filmen »Eskimo Diva« kan varmt anbefales.

Historisk dokumentar I forlængelse af premieren på filmen har Nuka turneret rundt i Grønland, hvor der i


Grønlands

diva

Nuka Bisgaard er kendt som model, filmskaber, diva, arrangør af Gay Pride og som et engageret og spændende menneske. Tekst: Toke Brødsgaard og greenland today

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portræt / portrait

diva

foto / Photo: Leiff Josefsen

Greenland’s Nuka Bisgaard is known as a model, a film maker, a diva, an arranger of Gay Pride and as a committed and interesting person.

foto / Photo: Inuuteq Kriegel

foto / Photo: toke brødsgaard

Text: Toke Brødsgaard & greenland today

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It takes courage to stand out from the crowd – particularly if you do so with flamboyance. This is what you meet with 24 year old Nuka Bisgaard – also known under the moniker Nuka Tha Diva. Nuka has a Danish mother and a Greenlandic father. Nuka was born as a boy, but she feels like a woman and therefore will be spoken of as such in the rest of this article. She became aware that she was not like everyone else at an early age. Nuka did not feel at home in her own body and was not attracted to girls. After trying to find inner peace for a long time, she realised that she felt more like

a woman. When you meet Nuka today, she is therefore dressed in women’s clothing. Nuka is often seen on the red carpet in beautiful dresses and in full make-up. Most recently, Nuka was seen at the Future Greenland trade conference where she showed beautiful designs from Nuuk Couture. Nuka the filmmaker In many ways, Nuka represents »The New Greenland«. A generation that breaks with convention and pushes boundaries. During her battle, she has met a lot of resistance from people with conservative attitudes.


foto / Photo: Nicola Linge

Interview med yahoo.com/travel om identitet.

foto / Photo: Chris Christophersen

foto / Photo: privat/private

Interview with yahoo.com/travel about identity.

foto / Photo: Lars Andersen

KNR studie 2010. På arbejde som scenograf på ungdomsprogrammet oqarit. KNR studio 2010. Working as a set designer for oqarit a TV show for young people.

This summer, Nuka is in the news with the film »Eskimo Diva«, a documentary film about Nuka’s life. It shows Nuka’s battle, in part with herself but also with society, to achieve acceptance of who she is. It has taken six years to make the film and, therefore it provides a broad picture of the development that Nuke has undergone during this period. It has been a turbulent time of her life, filled with big events. Nuka is best known for initiating and arranging the Gay Pride – an annual event in Nuuk that has brought many people to the streets in support of homosexuals. She has fought against cancer and run for election as a candidate for the Democrats. Historical documentary Following the premier of the film, Nuka toured in Greenland. In connection with the showing of the film, people were invited to take part in a debate about homosexuality. There has been great interest

all over Greenland for the film and there have been good and positive debates with excellent questions and constructive discussions. Nuka takes this as a broad acceptance of her as a person, but it also shows

Photo shoots with red hair and Sermitsiaq in the background. Fotooptagelser med rødt hår og Sermitsiaq i baggrunden.

that Greenland has reached a wider acceptance of people who stand out from the crowd and who have the courage to stand by this, despite criticism. The film is a piece of contemporary history and it

documents not only Nuka Bisgaard’s life, but it is also a snapshot of Greenland’s constant progress. The film »Eskimo Diva« is warmly recommended.

DISCOVER THE SECRET GEM OF GREENLAND OPLEV GRØNLANDS HEMMELIGE PERLE

BOOK AT AUL.GL 24 2015

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Dorthe Ivalos blog dortheivalo.blogspot.dk 40

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foto / Photo: mads nordlund

portrĂŚt / portrait


Grønlands foto / Photo: Dorthe Ivalo Lennert Jensen

største blogger Til hverdag er Dorthe Ivalo skolelærer i Sisimiut. I fritiden er hun også ægtefælle, mor, kaptajn på sin egen båd, chauffør på sin egen snescooter, vild med håndarbejde, en dygtig fotograf og indehaver af Tekst: Mads Nordlund Grønlands mest læste blog. Dorthe Ivalo Lennert Jensen er født 1966 i Sønderborg i Danmark. Hendes far kommer fra Sønderjylland og hendes mor fra Sisimiut. De flyttede til Sisimiut året efter hun blev født, og Dorthe Ivalo har boet her siden på nær i en periode, hvor hendes mor var under uddannelse i Nuuk, og senere under sin egen uddannelse til lærer, som hun blev færdig med i 1989. Hun taler både grønlandsk og dansk. - Jeg var med i en forsøgsordning på Ilinniarfissuaq – Grønlands Seminarium – med ekstra undervisning i grønlandsk for sådan nogle som mig, der boede i Grønland, men kun havde haft dansk i folkeskolen. Ideen var at se, om man kunne hive vores latente grønlandske sprog frem – og det kunne man. - Jeg har arbejdet som lærer siden og har lige haft 25 års jubilæum. Mange år i den almindelige folkeskole, men de sidste 10 år med specialklasser i noget der kaldes »Skole2 ordningen – Nalunguarfik«.

- Mens jeg læste til lærer, fik jeg min søn, der er født med rygmarvsbrok, så der var ikke tid til andet end studierne og ham. Vi tilbragte også lang tid på Rigshospitalet sammen. - Jeg fik job i Nuuk, men flyttede til Sisimiut midt i et skoleår for ikke at være alene i hovedstaden. Her boede mine forældre, som de stadig gør, smiler hun, og peger ud ad vinduet på deres hus tæt på og videre på først den ene søsters hus, og så den andens. Familien - Jeg mødte min mand Jan i Sisimiut. Vi er gamle klassekammerat fra folkeskolen. Nu har han holdt mig ud i over 20 år. Sammen har vi fået to dejlige piger med 13 måneders mellemrum, og de bor stadig hjemme. Min dejlige mand er lærer på KTI og det mest rummelige menneske, jeg kender. Det er nok derfor, han kan rumme mig, siger hun eftertænksomt. - Familien betyder alt for mig. Min mand og børnene, mine forældre og søstre. De er en slags »livsvidner«, nog-

le, der kender en og ved, hvad man består af, og accepterer en som den, man er. - Jeg synes, vi har en god familie med et godt forhold til hinanden. Vi klarer os godt sammen og hver især. Især hvis man ser på, hvor forskellige vi alle sammen er. Så er det fantastisk, at vi kan give hinanden plads til at være dem, vi er. - Min mand og jeg sejler tit sammen. Hans båd er stor og langsom, så vi sejler mest i min jolle, når vi skal ind til vores hytte i første fjord om sommeren. Jeg har sejlet selv i mange år. Om vinteren kører vi på snescooter derind. - Når man når en vis alder, er det godt at have en hytte. Den er kun 15 kvadratmeter, men meget funktionel. Vi nyder at komme lidt væk og nyde naturen og stilheden derinde. Sten og strik - Jeg har efterhånden prøvet mange sjove ting. F.eks. samlede jeg sten i mine lommer, og en dag spurgte jeg mineralkenderen Bjarne Ljungdahl, hvad det var for nogen. Det endte med,

at vi startede en stenklub sammen. Da Bjarne Ljungdahl så siden oprettede Grønlands Stenklub, var jeg med i opstartsfasen. Siden har jeg lavet mange smykkesten og gør det indimellem stadigvæk. Hvis jeg f.eks. har strikket en trøje og mangler et smykke, der passer til. Det er ikke smykker, jeg sælger. - Jeg strikker rigtig meget. Jeg ved ikke hvorfor, men alle heroppe kan noget med deres hænder. Nogen laver husflid eller kunst, andre spiller guitar eller harmonika. - Da jeg var på Rigshospitalet alene med min søn for anden gang, ringede jeg til mine forældres venner i Danmark. De har taget sig meget af mig, mens jeg var der. De gav mig strikkepinde og garn, og så sad jeg og strikkede, når tiden gik langsomt på sygehuset. Siden har det være on/off og mest for udfordringerne i en form eller farve. F.eks. har jeg forsøgt at lave en »møbius«. Det er en strikket ring, der er snoet en halv omgang, så den kan anvendes som en kombineret halskrave og hue. 24 2015

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Blog På hendes blog dortheivalo. blogspot.dk har man næsten dagligt kunne følge med i hendes, familien og vennernes liv i Sisimiut siden 2007. Bloggen er som Dorthe Ivalo 42

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selv ikke nogen helt almindelig blog. Den sprudler af energi, overskud, strik, håndarbejde, ture i naturen, små hverdagsting, blomster og isblomster, mad, musik, mennesker, holdninger, begivenheder, hverdagsbilleder og en masse små spændende »sidespor«, der er afprøvet undervejs. Det hele er krydret med alt fra fantastiske foto til mere dokumenterende billeder, der er med til at vise, hvad dagens indslag handler om, eller hvad ugens strik har resulteret i. Desuden er der komplette lister over færdig strik og læste bøger år for år, så enhver med frygt for at kede sig blot kan gå i gang fra en ende af, og her findes inspiration til et sjovere mere indholdsrigt liv. Det er altid svært, når man som Dorthe Ivalo stikker næsen frem og udleverer sig selv og sit liv online. Det er der mange, der har haft en mening om, både i Sisimiut og i kommentarerne til bloggen gennem tiden, men selvom hun er blevet kaldt mange ting, er »kedelig« ikke en af dem. - Det startede som en hjemmeside for familie og venner med billeder og små fortællinger fra hverdagen. Det var især for mine sviger-

foto / Photo: Dorthe Ivalo Lennert Jensen

foto / Photo: Dorthe Ivalo Lennert Jensen

- Jeg har malet, lavet cremer og mange andre ting. Der skal ikke meget til, før jeg bliver rastløs. Det er sjældent, jeg laver det samme flere gange. Denne vinter har vi dog bygget en igloo igen, men nu er det ligesom prøvet. Projektet har fået stor støtte lokalt. Det var elever fra vores skole, der byggede den af 1800 mælkekartoner med frosset vand med frugtfarve, sponsoreret af købmandskæden KNI. - Jeg elsker musik og gik på musik-sproglig linje på gymnasiet, men desværre har jeg ikke rigtig holdt det ved lige. Min ældste datter kan stort set spille på alt, og den yngste spiller guitar. Begge vores døtre har hovedet godt skruet på. Desuden tager den yngste nogle fantastiske fotos. Hun tog et portrætfoto af mig, hvor jeg tænkte, det er bare løgn. Det fik mig til at se mig selv med andre øjne og fik mig til at tabe 26 kilo på et år. Ikke noget jeg led under, bare en beslutning, konstaterer Dorthe Ivalo.

forældres skyld, så de kunne følge lidt med fra Danmark. I marts 2007 blev den lavet om til en mere moderne blog, der er åben for alle. - Nu er der ca. 214, der følger med fast, og mellem 500 og 700 i gennemsnit der er inde og kigge dagligt. Det er ca. 20.000 om måneden, hvoraf kun ca. 4% kommer fra Grønland, resten er ude fra verden. - Jeg har med vilje fravalgt reklamer. Det er min blog, og jeg vil være uafhængig og uvildig. Men da vi bor i et lille samfund, tænker jeg meget over, at jeg ikke udleverer nogen. Desuden prøver jeg at overholde almindelige regler for god etik og sprogbrug. Jeg synes, der er mange nok, der taler grimt om – og til – hinanden. Helt almindelig - »Overskriften« på min blog er »et helt almindeligt liv«. Jeg strikker og laver frikadeller. Helt almindelige ting, som alle kan forholde sig til. - Når medierne bringer noget med forhutlede og fordrukne grønlændere, gør jeg meget ud af at sige: »hallo – jeg er her også«. Jeg håber, min blog eksponerer en almindelig grønlandsk hverdag på en positiv måde. Vi er nogle, der lever et

ganske almindeligt kedeligt middelklasseliv. Kan jeg bare ændre en enkelt eller to’s holdning, vil det være fedt, siger hun. - Folk tror, jeg er meget udadvendt, men faktisk går jeg ikke ud alene, og føler mig ret blufærdig. Det er nemmere med en blog, hvor man sidder bag skærmen og ikke ser læserne i øjnene. Men vi er da blevet genkendt som familie i Danmark, når vi er på ferie. - Jeg får mange mails fra hele verden. Mange gange er det helt almindelige turistmæssige spørgsmål og generelle grønlandsspørgsmål, men selvfølgelig også en del om mine håndarbejder og foto. - Jeg har ingen kriterier for, hvornår jeg opdaterer min blog. Jeg har en ide om, at hvis jeg ikke har taget et foto, så skriver jeg ikke om det. Jeg tror, folk er meget visuelt orienterede, ligesom mig selv, og gerne vil have et billede til at understøtte teksten. - Jeg er nok kommet dertil, hvor jeg tænker, om der er mere at skrive om. Men det er der jo faktisk nok. Jeg har altid ideer og stadig meget at skrive om og masser at tage foto af. Selvom min svigermor desværre er død


Sejlads i Tampax. Sailing in the Tampax.

nu, og det ofte var hende, jeg tænkte på, når jeg skrev i starten, så er jeg nok ikke helt færdig endnu. Foto - Jeg føler ikke selv, at jeg tager vildt gode foto, men jeg har fået megen ros. Det er jeg glad for. Som med alt andet kan jeg jo godt lide at udfordre mig selv. Det gælder også fotografering. - I mange år har jeg f.eks. fået lov til at være med som en af Arctic Circle Races fotografer. Det er en spændende udfordring. Man ved aldrig, hvordan vejret er, og skiløberne har det meget forskelligt med at blive fotograferet. Det er lidt svært at forklare, men generelt kan jeg bedre lide at fange folks udtryk og følelser end opstillede billeder, hvor folk smiler pænt. Det giver et andet udtryk at fange folks oprigtige glæde, når de kommer over målstregen end senere, når de smilende modtager deres medalje. I starten havde jeg bare et kompakt kamera til 700 kroner. Med det vandt jeg en landsdækkende fotokonkurrence med et ud af ca. 2.000 billeder. Vinderbilledet var et foto af første skoledag. Det gav mig et skulderklap, at uddannede fotografer gav

mig den anerkendelse. I præmie vandt jeg et spejlreflekskamera og en rejse for to til Danmark med ophold betalt og fribilletter i København. Det var Kronprins Frederik, der overrakte kameraet, og jeg skulle holde et indlæg om Grønland på Arktisk Institut. Det var stort, husker Dorthe Ivalo. - Der findes mange, der tager masser fantastiske fotos. Selv er jeg fascineret af fotografer som f.eks. Carsten Egevang fra Danmark og Steen Olsen her fra Sisimiut. Fremtiden - Hvad fremtiden bringer, ved jeg ikke. Jeg har ikke de store planer. Det er ret sjældent, jeg planlægger noget langt frem i tiden. Jeg er nok meget impulsiv, siger hun. Kunne man samle Dorthe Ivalos energi i én koncentreret strøm, ville hun sikkert kunne lyse Sisimiut op. Men det gør hun jo allerede på sin egen måde ved fortsat at tage initiativer til nye ting og blogge om hendes hverdage til glæde for alle, der følger med. - Jeg gør et stort nummer ud af hverdagen. Som den danske poet Dan Turell sagde: »mest holder jeg af hverdagen, dem er der flest af«, slutter Dorthe Ivalo.

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foto / Photo: jan Jensen

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Gallery Roar Christiansen A unique selection of Greenlandic art, lithographs, prints, posters, watercolours, wood carvings, copper engravings, linocuts, postand art cards. See some of our selection on www.galleri.gl See you in a gallery of another world.

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portræt / portrait

Greenland’s foto / Photo: Dorthe Ivalo Lennert Jensen

biggest blogger

Dorthe Ivalo works as a school teacher in Sisimiut. In her spare time, she is also a wife, a mother, captain of her own boat, driver of her own snowmobile, crazy about needlework, a skilled photographer Text: Mads Nordlund and owner of Greenland’s most-read blog. Dorthe Ivalo Lennert Jensen was born in 1966 in Sønderborg in Denmark. Her father comes from Southern Jutland and her mother is from Sisimiut. They moved to Sisimiut the year after she was born and Dorthe Ivalo has lived there ever since, apart from the time when her mother went to school in Nuuk, and later during her own training to become a teacher, which she completed in 1989. She speaks Greenlandic and Danish. - I took part in a pilot project at Ilinniarfissuaq – Greenland’s Teaching College - where there were extra lessons in Greenlandic for people like me, who lived in Greenland but who had only been taught Danish at school. The idea was to see if it was possible to bring out our latent Greenlandic language – and it was. - I have worked as a teacher ever since and I have just celebrated my 25th anniversary. Many of these years were spent teaching in ordinary schools, but for the last 10 years I have taught special classes in what is called »The School2 scheme – Nalunguarfik«. - My son was born while I studied to be a teacher. He was born with spina bifida so there wasn’t time for anything other than my studies and him. We also 44

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spent a long time together at Copenhagen University Hospital in Denmark. - I found work in Nuuk, but I moved to Sisimiut in the middle of the school year so as not to be alone in the capital. My parents lived there and they still do, she smiles and points out of the window at their house, which is nearby. She then points to first one sister’s house and then to the other’s. The family - I met my husband Jan in Sisimiut. We are old classmates from school. He has put up with me for 20 years. Together we have two lovely girls born 13 months apart and they still live at home. My wonderful husband is a teacher at KTI and he is the most tolerant person I know. This is probably why he puts up with me, she says thoughtfully. - My family means everything to me. My husband and children, my parents and sisters. Each is a kind of »life witness«, a person who knows you and what you are made of and who accepts you for who you are. - I think I have a good family and we have a good relationship with each other. We get on well together and separately. Especially when you see how different we all

are, it is fantastic that we can give each other space to be who we are. - My husband and I often sail together. His boat is big and slow, so we usually take my dinghy when we sail in to our cabin in the fjord in the summer. I have sailed myself for many years. In the winter, we drive in with the snowmobile. - When you get to a certain age, it is nice to have a cabin. It is only 15 square metres, but very functional. We enjoy getting away to enjoy nature and the tranquillity out there. Rocks and knitting - I have done lots of interesting things in my time. For example, I collect rocks in my pockets and one day I asked Bjarne Ljungdahl, who knows minerals, what they were. This resulted in us starting a rock club together. When Bjarne Ljungdahl later started Greenland’s Rock Club, I helped with the start up phase. Since then, I have made a lot of gem stones and I still do sometimes, for example if I have knitted a sweater and I don’t have jewellery that goes with it. I don’t sell the jewellery. - I knit a lot. I don’t know why, but everyone up here is good with their hands. Some people do handicrafts or art, others play the guitar or the accordion.

- When I was alone at Copenhagen University Hospital in Denmark with my son for the second time, I rang to my parent’s friends in Denmark. They helped me a lot while I was there. They gave me knitting needles and yarn, so I sat and knitted when time passed slowly at the hospital. Since then, it has been on and off and mostly to be chakkenged by a shape or a colour. For example, I have tried to make a »moebius«. It is a knitted circular scarf with a half twist so that it can be used as a combined neck-warmer and hat. - I have painted and made creams and done lots of other things. I quickly become restless. I rarely do the same thing again, although this winter we have built an igloo again. But now, that is over and done with. The project got a lot of local support. It was the children who built it out of 1,800 milk cartons filled with frozen water coloured with food colouring. It was sponsored by the supermarket chain KNI. - I love music and I followed the music/linguistic line of study at high school, but unfortunately I haven’t kept it up. My oldest daughter can play just about anything and my youngest plays the guitar. Both our daughters are bright. In addition, the youngest takes fantastic


Dorthe Ivalo in a finished work of 175 grams pure two-ply musk-ox wool. Dorthe Ivalo i færdigt strik, 175 gram ren to-trådet moskusuld.

Blog In her blog dortheivalo.blogspot.dk it has been possible to follow her life and the lives of her family and friends in Sisimiut almost daily since 2007. The blog is, like Dorthe Ivalo herself, not an ordinary blog. It bubbles with energy, life, knitting, needlework, trips into nature, small everyday things, flowers and frostwork, food, music, people, attitudes, events, glimpses of daily life and lots of exciting little »detours« that have been tried out. All this is spiced up with everything from wonderful photos to pictures documenting what the day’s post is about or how the week’s knitting has turned out. Furthermore, there are completed lists of finished knitting projects and books read year by year, so anyone afraid of getting bored can just take their pick. There is plenty of inspiration here for a more amusing, fulfilling life. It is always hard when people like Dorthe Ivalo stick their necks out and bare their souls on line. A lot of people

Foto/ Photo: Sara A. L. Jensen

photos. She took a portrait of me where I thought – this is simply unbelievable. It made me look at myself in a new way and got me to lose 26 kilos in one year. No big deal, it was just a decision, states Dorthe Ivalo.

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Frostwork on a window.

Foto/ Photo: Sara A. L. Jensen

Isblomst på et vindue.

have expressed their opinion on this, both in Sisimiut and in comments to the blog over time, but although she has been called many things, »boring« is not one of them. - It started as a home page for family and friends with pictures and small stories from my life. It was especially for the benefit of my parents in law, so they could keep up from Denmark. In March 2007 it was changed into a more modern blog, which is open to everyone. - Now, I have 214 followers and an average of 500 to 700 people who click in each day. There are about 20,000 visitors on average each month of which around 4% come from Greenland and the others come from around the world. - I have chosen not to have advertisements. It is my blog and I want to be independent and impartial. But since we live in a small community, I am very careful not to expose anyone. I also try to stick to ordinary rules for good ethics and good language. I think there are too many people, who say nasty things to – and about – each other. Perfectly ordinary - The »heading« for my blog, is »a perfectly ordinary life«. I knit and cook rissoles. Perfectly ordinary things that anyone can relate to. 46

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- While the media feature scruffy, drunken Greenlanders, I make an effort to say: »Hello – I am here, too«. I hope my blog exposes ordinary, everyday life in Greenland in a positive way. Some of us live perfectly ordinary, boring middle-class lives. If I can just change the views of one or two people, it would be great, she says. - People think I am very extrovert, but I don’t actually go out alone and I am quite shy. It is easier with a blog where you sit behind a screen, not looking readers in the eye. But we have been recognized as a family when we are on holiday in Denmark. - I get a lot of mails from all over the world. Often they concern quite ordinary tourist-related questions or they are about Greenland in general, but of course there are also some about my knitting and photos. - I don’t have any criteria for when I post updates on my blog. I have this idea, that if I haven’t taken a photo, I don’t write about it. I believe people are very visually-oriented like me and I like to have a picture to support the text. - I am where I think about whether there is anything left worth writing. But there usually is. I always have ideas and there is still a lot to write about and plenty to take photos of. Beforehand, I was

Dorthe Ivalo med søstrene til venstre Lena Reimer og til højre Christina Johnsen. Dorthe Ivalo with her sisters; on the left Lena Reimer and on the right Christina Johnsen.

often thinking of my mother in law when I wrote. Sadley, she has passed away, but I don't think I have finished writing yet. Photo - I don’t think I take particularly good photos, but I have received a lot of acclaim, which is nice. As with anything else, I like to challenge myself. This also applies to photography. - For many years, I have been allowed to be one of Arctic Circle Race’s photographers. It is an exciting challenge. You never know what the weather will be like and the skiers have different feelings about being photographed. It is difficult to explain, but usually I prefer to capture people’s expressions and feelings, rather than take arranged photos where people smile for the camera. It gives a different impression when you capture a person’s genuine joy at crossing the finishing line, rather than later, when they smile as they receive their medal. In the beginning, I only had a compact camera that cost DKK 700. I used it to win a country-wide photo competition with 2,000 photo entries. The winner was a photo of a first day of school. The fact that qualified photographers gave me that recognition was a

pat on the back for me. I won a reflex camera and a trip for two to Denmark with paid accommodation and complimentary tickets in Copenhagen. Crown Prince Frederik presented me with the camera and I held a talk about Greenland at the Arctic Institute. It was great, remembers Dorthe Ivalo. - There are many people who take fantastic photos. I am fascinated by photographers like Carsten Egevang from Denmark and Steen Olsen here from Sisimiut. The future - I do not know what the future will bring. I do not have any big plans. I rarely plan ahead. I am probably very impulsive, she says. If you collected Dorthe Ivalo’s energy into one concentrated beam, she would probably light up all of Sisimiut. But she already does this in her own way, by continuing to take the initiative for innovations and by posting about her daily life for everyone who follows her blog. - I make a song and dance out of ordinary days. As the Danish poet Dan Turell said: »I like ordinary days most, they are in the majority«, ends Dorthe Ivalo.

Dorthe Ivalo’s blog dortheivalo.blogspot.dk


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Foto/ Photo: INUACARE, Pipaluk Silassen

Foto/ Photo: Malou Media

Grønland på flaske

Foto/ Photo: INUACARE, Pipaluk Silassen

erhverv / business

I Sydgrønland har to kvinder startet en lille familievirksomhed, hvor de laver eksklusive, økologiske hår- og hudplejeprodukter Tekst: greenland today baseret på naturens urter og planter. Til hverdag er Anne Mette Koustrup Nielsen og Pipaluk Silassen henholdsvis svigermor og svigerdatter i Qaqortoq. Her driver Pipaluk frisørsalonen »Salon Pipa«, og Anne Mette driver »Uunartoq Wellness«. Desuden er de sammen ved at udvikle firmaet InuaCare. Pipaluk, der er uddannet frisør, er født i Qaqortoq og opvokset i Nuuk og Danmark, inden hun vendte tilbage til byen i 2005. Anne Mette er uddannet indenfor forskellige wellness- og terapibehandlinger. Hun kommer fra Danmark, hvor hun lige har været på ophold for at udvide sine færdigheder med en uddannelse som lægeeksamineret klinisk akupunktør. Hun er grønlandsk gift og flyttede til Qaqortoq i 1988. Ideen til InuaCare - Vi havde erfaret, at de grønlandske urter og planter både kunne lindre, pleje og virke helende på huden, og det ønskede vi at udvikle, fortæller Pipaluk. - I første omgang blev det til cremer, som vi fik fantastisk respons på. Derefter begyndte ideen om InuaCare at udvikle sig og blive til en vision om at lave økologiske hår- og hudplejeprodukter baseret på grønlandske råvarer. - »Inua« er et gammelt Inuitbegreb, som betyder »Manden i tinget«. Inua er en personificering af naturen, hvor 48

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mennesket ser sig selv i det, han eller hun laver. Samtidig ofrer de nogle af deres evner til værktøjerne, så de får noget at arbejde med. - I vores univers ønsker vi ligeledes at give noget af os selv i vores produkter ved at kombinere vores evner og erfaring med blandt andet de nærende og beroligende urter og blomster fra den grønlandske natur. Udvikling Foreløbig har InuaCare udviklet hårshampoo, ansigtscremer, øjencreme, ansigtsscrub, rensegele, skintonic, bodylotion og en fed og nærende creme. - Vi udvikler fortsat nye produkter og har flere skønhedsplejemidler på vej, fortæller Anne Mette. - Råvarerne er bl.a. grønlandsk post, ene, timian og kamille. Desuden er vores grønlandske vand jo også en vigtig råvare. - Vi bruger meget af vores fritid på projektet og eksperimenterer meget for at udvikle vores produkter og sortiment. Desuden er hver mandag afsat i kalenderen til InuaCare. Fremtiden - Vi har allerede forhandlere i Nuuk og Kangerlussuaq, men mange flere ønsker at sælge vores produkter. Vi håber også, at vores webshop kører snart. Så

vi forventer, man kan købe InuaCare i hele Grønland i løbet af 2015, siger Pipaluk. - Vi har også fået henvendelser fra Island og Danmark og fra flere globale forhandlere, så interessen for vores produkter er enorm, smiler hun. - Lige nu er vi kun os to med god hjælp fra nogle fåreholdersteder, der indsamler grønlandske råvarer til produktionen. - Vi ved, at vi kan skabe flere arbejdspladser fremover. Vi er ved at få udviklet maskiner og redskaber, som kan dække vores behov. Det er en dyr proces. Flere har rådet os til at sende råvarerne til produktion i udlandet, da det vil gøre det meget billigere at producere. - Det ønsker vi ikke. Vi ønsker et 100% autentisk, grønlandsk produkt. Udviklet på grundlag af 100-vis af års erfaring om grønlandske planter, urter og blomsters egenskaber. Produceret i Qaqortoq af grønlandsk arbejdskraft i vores rene luft, baseret på vores rene vand. Det skal kunne lade sig gøre, fastslår de.

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Greenland in a bottle Foto/ Photo: INUACARE, Pipaluk Silassen

In South Greenland, two women have started a small family business where they make exclusive organic hair and skin care products based on nature’s herbs and plants. Text: greenland today

Development For the time being, InuaCare has developed hair shampoo, face creams, eye cream, facial scrub, cleansing gel, skin tonic and a rich, nourishing cream. - We are still developing new products and we have more skin care products in the pipeline, says Anne Mette. - The ingredients include Labrador tea, juniper, thyme and chamomile. Our Greenlandic water is also an important ingredient. - We spend a lot of our spare time on the project and we experiment a lot to develop our products and our range. And every Monday is set aside for InuaCare. The future - We already have retailers in Nuuk and Kangerlussuaq, but many more want to sell our products. We hope to have a web shop soon, too, and we expect you will be able to buy InuaCare products all

over Greenland at the end of 2015, says Pipaluk. - We have also had inquiries from Iceland and Denmark as well as from global distributors, so the interest for our products is huge, she smiles. - At the moment, there are just the two of us, with some invaluable help from some sheep stations, where they collect Greenlandic ingredients for our production. - We know that we can create jobs in the future. We are having machines and tools developed to meet our specifications. It is an expensive process. Several people have advised us to send the ingredients for production abroad because it would make production much cheaper. - We do not want that. We want a 100% authentic Greenlandic product, developed on the basis of hundreds of years of experience with the properties of Greenlandic plants, herbs and flowers, produced in Qaqortoq by Greenlandic workers in our fresh air and with our pure water. It should be possible.

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Foto/ Photo: Malou Media

Foto/ Photo: INUACARE, Pipaluk Silassen

The idea behind InuaCare - We found that the Greenlandic herbs and plants had a soothing and healing effect on skin and we wanted to develop this, says Pipaluk. - We made creams to start with and we had a fantastic response. Then we got the idea to start InuaCare and that turned into a vision of producing organic hair and skin care products based on Greenlandic ingredients. - »Inua« is an old Inuit concept which means »the person in all things«. Inua is a personification of nature, where the

person sees himself in what he makes. At the same time, they transfer some of their skills to the tools they use. - In our universe, we also want to give something of ourselves to our products, by combining our skills and experience with the nourishing and soothing herbs and plants from nature in Greenland.

Foto/ Photo: INUACARE, Pipaluk Silassen

Anne Mette Koustrup Nielsen and Pipaluk Silassen are, respectively, motherin-law and daughter-in-law in Qaqortoq. Pipaluk runs a hairdressing salon called »Salon Pipa« and Anne Mette runs »UunartoqWellness«. They also run a company called InuaCare together. Pipaluk, who is a qualified hairdresser, was born in Qaqortoq and raised in Nuuk and Denmark. She returned to Qaqortoq in 2005. Anne Mette has taken courses in various wellness and therapy treatments. She has just returned from Denmark where she expanded her skills by qualifying as an acupuncturist. She is married to a Greenlander and she moved to Qaqortoq in 1988.

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erhverv / business

srk exploration i Grønland En af aktørerne indenfor mineralefterforskningen i Arktis er firmaet SRK Exploration, der med deres internationale erfaring har etableret en afdeling med fokus på Grønland. Tekst: greenland today

- Under den verdensomspændende økonomiske krise er flere mineralefterforskningsprojekter stoppet eller sat på stand by i hele verden, også i Grønland, forklarer Jon Russill, der til daglig er seniorefterforskningsgeolog i SRK Explorations afdeling i Cardiff. - Vi er i en branche, der ofte betegnes som »høj risiko« i forhold til investeringer, fordi der også er tale om projekter med et potentielt højt afkast. Men på trods af krisen er vi fortsat aktive og med i forskellige projekter som hidtil. Stor erfaringsbase SRK Group Worldwide har 1600 ansatte i hele verden med afdelinger i England, Danmark og Rusland. Firmaet har eksisteret i 40 år og har opbygget en stor erfaring og knowhow indenfor mineralefterforskning og relaterede opgaver. SRK Exploration Denmark

er et danskregistreret firma, der primært fokuserer på de tidlige faser i mineralefterforskningen. De startede deres arbejde i Grønland i 2008 og har i dag syv ansatte, der primært beskæftiger sig med Grønland. De har alle forskellige erfaringer fra tidligere arbejde i Grønland, som f.eks. geologer og ekspeditionsfirmaer, osv. Dermed har de en indgående viden om de allermest kendte forekomster og ofte praktisk erfaring fra stederne, fordi de før har arbejdet med dem i andre sammenhænge. - Det giver os en stor fordel allerede i planlægningsfasen af et projekt, at vi kender stederne og i de fleste tilfælde kan bruge folk, der har været på stederne, forklarer seniorgeolog Casper Mejer Petersen, der er leder for SRK’s indsats i Grønland. - SRK Exploration bruger deres store netværk til at skaffe den fornødne ekstra ekspertise og beskæftiger ca.

Jon Russill, Seniorefterforskningsgeolog. Jon Russill, Senior Exploration Geologist. 50

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40 mand med blandt andet efterforskning, feltarbejde, projektering, projektgearing og fejlanalyser til projekter rundt omkring i Grønland og i resten af verden. - Desuden kan vi også hjælpe efterforskningsfirmaerne med det videre forløb ved at inddrage resten af SRK Groups ekspertise i alle aspekter af mineindustrien og på den måde tilbyde en fortsat service efter et eventuelt fund, der skal modnes og udvikles. Mineland - Industrien gennemgår forandring og udvikling i disse år. Finanskrisen på verdensplan har betydet større forsigtighed ved investering end tidligere. I øjeblikket bruger mange industrier derfor af deres lagre, men når metalpriserne igen går op på verdensmarkedet, er der er ingen tvivl om, at investeringslysten kommer tilbage i løbet af nogle år.

- På trods af at det går langsommere nu, er der stadig en masse arbejde i Grønland, og SRK Exploration er med i flere projekter i år, hvoraf nogle endnu mangler godkendelse. - Der er mange meget lovende fund, og grundet Grønlands enorme størrelse er der stadig mange uudforskede områder. - Grønland er meget transparent med en ny moderne minerallov på plads. Set fra et politisk synspunkt er landet også meget stabilt på niveau med Europa, hvilket er vigtigt for udenlandske investorer. - Desuden har vi lavet mange finansmodeller, der viser, at flere mindre projekter kan realiseres med gevinst i modsætning til omverdenens tro om, at det primært er storskalaprojekter, der kan gennemføres i Grønland. Derfor vil vi også være her i fremtiden, siger Jon Russill.


Historie Geologisk går Grønlands historie 3.800 millioner år tilbage. Dermed findes nogle af verdens ældste bjergarter fra perioden kaldet »prækambrium«, ligesom fjeldene indeholder dannelser fra næsten alle geologiske perioder. Det betyder, at den del af Grønland, der er isfrit, menes at indeholde næsten alle tænkelige mineraler, grundstoffer, ædelmetaller og specielle jordarter. Der har således været kulminedrift i mindre skala indenfor de sidste 300 år, ligesom der også i nyere tid har været udvundet guld,

Casper Mejer Petersen, MSc. seniorgeolog og General Manager Danmark. Casper Mejer Petersen, MSc. Senior Exploration Geologist and General Manager Denmark.

rubiner, grafit og kryolit for blot at nævne nogle af de tidligere mineprojekter. - Der har været megen tale om storskalaprojekter i Grønland, men de mindre mineprojekter kan altså også vise sig at være rentable og ofte igangsættes med færre midler og mindre risiko. - Krisen har ikke stoppet os. Selvom verdensmarkedets priser svinger, er Grønlands metaller og mineraler der stadig, slutter Jon Russill fra SRK Exploration.

Se mere srkexploration.com

srk exploration

in Greenland One of the companies carrying out mineral exploration in the Arctic is SRK Exploration. This internationally experienced company has established a branch with focus on Greenland. Text: greenland today

- During the global economic crisis, many mineral exploration projects were shelved or put on stand-by in countries all over the world, including Greenland, explains Jon Russill, who is Senior Exploration Geologist at SRK Exploration’s Headquarter in Cardiff. - We are in an industry that is often characterised as »high risk« with regard to investments, but the projects have a potential for a high return. Despite the crisis, we are still active and engaged in various projects, particularly those that have the potential for near-term cash returns.

Extensive experience SRK Exploration is part of the SRK Group which has 1600 employees around the world. The Group has existed for 40 years and has acquired extensive experience and know how within mineral exploration and related work. SRK Exploration focuses primarily on early-stage mineral exploration and has branches in the United Kingdom, Denmark and Russia. Through its Danish registered office in Copenhagen, the company started its work in Greenland in 2008 and today it has employees who 24 2015

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erhverv / business

There are frequent helicopter or Twin Otter flights to exploration areas in Greenland. Der flyves ofte med helikopter eller Twin Otter til de områder, der efterforskes i Grønland.

concentrate primarily on Greenland. They all have experience from previous work in Greenland, e.g. as geologists or in Arctic logistics etc. This means that they have a thorough knowledge of all the most well-known deposits and often practical experience from the sites as well, because they have previously worked with them in other contexts. - It gives us a huge advantage at the planning stage of a project that we already know the sites and in most cases can use people who have been there, explains Senior Geologist Casper Mejer Petersen, who is the leader of SRK’s work in Greenland. - SRK Exploration uses its extensive network to acquire the necessary expertise and it employs people to work with exploration, field work, project design, planning and analysis for projects around Greenland and the rest of the world. - Furthermore, we are able to help exploration companies move their projects 52

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forward to more advanced stages by drawing on the rest of the SRK Group’s expertise within all aspects of mining, to provide services that will mature and develop a find. Mining country - The industry is experiencing change and development these years. The global financial crisis has resulted in greater caution with regard to investments than earlier. At the moment, many industries are therefore using what they have in stock, but when metal prices increase again on the world market there is no doubt that the desire to invest will return within a few years. - Although things are moving slowly now, there is still work in Greenland and SRK Exploration is working on several projects this year in East, South and West Greenland, although some of them are still waiting for approval. - Greenland has outstanding mineral potential and, because of its immense size,

there are still many unexplored areas. - Greenland is very transparent and has a modern framework for exploration and mining, now the new mineral legislation is in place. Seen from a political viewpoint, the country is as stable as Europe, which is very important to investors. - Furthermore, we have made many financial models that show there are several smaller but richly-mineralised projects which could be realised profitably, contrary to the common belief that it is primarily large scale projects that would be viable in Greenland. This opens up many possibilities and we will be in Greenland for the long term, says Jon Russill. History Geologically, Greenland’s history goes back 3,800 million years. You can find some of the oldest rocks in the world and the mountains contain formations from almost all geological eras. This means that the part of Greenland

that is free of ice is thought to host almost every imaginable mineral, element, precious metal and rare earth metal. Small-scale coal mines have been in operation within the past 300 years and in recent times gold, rubies, graphite, cryolite, base metals and industrial minerals have been mined, to mention just a few of the earlier mining projects. - There has been a lot of talk about large scale projects in Greenland, but the smaller mining projects could also prove to be profitable and they can often be started with less money and less risk, and have potential to provide near-term cash returns. - The crisis has not stopped us. Market prices around the world may fluctuate, but Greenland’s metals and minerals are still there, concludes Jon Russill from SRK Exploration.

See more srkexploration.com


Greenland Greenland remains one of the least explored frontiers and hosts an impressive variety of mineral deposits and geological environments. Interest from mineral exploration and mining companies has been growing steadily in recent years and Greenland scored highest in the 2012/2013 Fraser Institute Current Mineral Potential Index. This was not just based on its mineral potential but also on being a safe, stable, mining-friendly jurisdiction, with a modern mining code and straightforward permitting processes. Greenland hosts several world-class deposits and a growing portfolio of promising prospects, having attracted major investment from companies such as Anglo American, Boliden and London Mining. Greenland has been an important focus of SRK ES’ work in recent years.

SRK ES offers; Experience of all stages of the exploration process including; country-wide and local prospectivity analysis, assistance with licence acquisitions, exploration programme design, implementation and management for a wide range of projects from grass-roots mapping and sampling to resource drilling, as well as independent technical reporting. Knowledge. Our staff have more than 25 years combined experience of operating in Greenland and close links to Geological Survey of Denmark and Greenland. SRK ES have significant experience of the logisitical challenges of working in Greenland and as such have an intimate understanding of safe working practices, in-country logistical support, climatic and social conditions as well as the geological complexity. Quality services tailored to the client’s needs and the technical requirements of every project. By specifying and undertaking all exploration activities in line with international best practices, SRK ES ensures that results are accurate, representative and provide the foundations

for informed and independent professional opinions. Recent SRK ES projects have included:  Iron Ore: Melville Bugt (Red Rock Resources)  Precious Metals: Skaergaard PGM-Au (Platina Resources) plus reconnaissance fieldwork in South and East Greenland.  Speciality Metals: Motzfeldt Ta-Nb-Zr-REE (Ram Resources), Kangerlussuaq Alkaline Complex, plus a number of prospectivity reviews and reconnaissance fieldwork programmes.  Base Metals: Prospectivity reviews, target generation and fatal flaw analysis for projects in a number of regions around Greenland. SRK ES Denmark, is a Danish-registered company and benefits from the unique tax agreement between Greenland and Denmark. This offers relief from the 33% tax on profit (plus 35% personnel tax) that is charged to other foreign-registered operating in Greenland. Therefore SRK ES can offer their services across Greenland at favourable rates.

Additional expertise in all aspects of the mining industry is available through the global SRK Group so SRK ES is well placed to assist clients at any stage of mineral exploration in Greenland. To find out more about our technical services or discuss your project specific needs, please contact us; SRK ES ES Denmark Denmark SRK Skindergade 38, 2 Skindergade 38, 2 K 1159 Copenhagen Denmark 1159 Copenhagen K

SRK SRK Exploration Exploration Services Services Ltd Ltd 12 St. Andrews Crescent 12 St. Andrews Crescent Cardiff CF10 Cardiff3DD United Kingdom CF10 3DD

Copenhagen: +45 088 71 UK: +44 272 (0) 2920 233 233 UK: +44 (0) 2920 233 233 Moscow: +7 (495) (495) 692 692 24 24 28 28 Moscow: +7 greenland today 53 24 2015 Email: Copenhagen: enquiries@srkexploration.com +45 272 088 71 Web: www.srkexploration.com


erhverv / business

Topprioritet på

toppen af verden Den amerikanske hærs ingeniørkorps vedligeholder Thule Base til støtte for Amerikas nationale sikkerhed Tekst: Joanne Castagna, Ed.D.

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Foto/Photo: Peterson Air Force Base Foto/Photo: Peterson Air Force Base Foto/Photo: Stella Marco, Project Manager, New York District, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Foto/Photo: Peterson Air Force Base

Ingeniørteamet besøger Thule Air Base. The engineering team visiting Thule Air Base.

Klokken er 21:00, og der er 2 grader på Thule Air Base i det nordvestlige hjørne af Grønland. Et hold fra den amerikanske hærs ingeniørkorps er trætte efter en lang flyvning hertil natten før, efterfulgt af en dag med besøg på basens projekter. De har snart fri, men beslutter at besøge basens museum. Fra den skarpe kolde luft træder de ind i en varm bygning, hvor de bliver mødt af en behagelig kvinde iført en parka. Hun viser dem begejstret rundt og fortæller, at hun har boet og arbejdet på den afsides liggende base siden 1960'erne. I samlingen er forskellige minder fra basetiden, herunder billeder af besøgende ærværdigheder, en stor rund radarskærm, en træslæde brugt af inuit og en mannequin iført jagttøj af skind. De er ved at forlade stedet, da hun spørger dem, om de ønsker at se en gammel film om basen. Opbygning af basen Filmen viser, hvordan basen hemmeligt og hurtigt blev bygget i begyndelsen af 1950'erne, da USA følte en trussel fra udlandet. På rekordtid blev der transporteret massive mængder af forsyninger, udstyr og 12.000 mænd til Thule for at konstruere basen. Denne enorme indsats, som omfattede den amerikanske hærs ingeniørkorps, var en utrolig bedrift, der blev drevet af USA’s intense behov for at bevare den amerikanske livsstil. Det var passende, at holdet så filmen og mødte denne motiverede kvinde denne aften, fordi det mindede dem om, hvorfor de var der.

I årtier har den amerikanske hærs ingeniørkorps fra New York-regionen, bygget faciliteter på basen under ekstreme arktiske forhold. Disse projekter har omfattet landingsbaner, sovesale og et hospital. I øjeblikket er de ved at konstruere to tiltrængte sovesale. - Disse nye kollegier vil medvirke til at give flypersonel den livskvalitet, de fortjener under deres udstationering på Thule Air Base nord for polarcirklen, siger New York regionschef Oberst Paul Owen. - Thules afsides beliggenhed og barske klima begrænser personalet til at leve på basen, og derfor er det vigtigt at give dem gode boligforhold. T.A.B. Thule Air Base er det amerikanske forsvars nordligste installation, og blev etableret for at sikre den nationale sikkerhed i USA. Flyvevåbnet udfører flere missioner, der bl.a. overvåger USA’s luftrum for udenlandske missiler. Til denne opgave er soldater i USA’s luftvåben og amerikanske, danske og grønlandske civile kontraktansatte udstationeret der. Derfor er kvalitetsboliger nødvendige for at sikre dem fra det barske vejr og for at holde en god moral i dette fjerntliggende område af verden. De to nye sovesale er tegnet af den amerikanske hærs ingeniørkorps fra New York regionen og bygges af danske entreprenører under den amerikanske hærs ingeniørkorps' tilsyn. Sovesalene er klar til indflytning i 2015. De erstatter gamle bygninger fra 1950'erne, der er slidt af det barske arktiske klima. 24 2015

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Foto/Photo: Stella Marco, Project Manager, New York District, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers

Om forfatteren Dr. JoAnne Castagna er Public Affairs Specialist og skriver for den amerikanske hærs ingeniørkorps i New York-regionen. Hun kan kontaktes på joanne.castagna@usace.army.mil. Følg hende på Twitter: http://twitter.com/ writer4usacenyc

Fakta Thule Air Base er USA’s luftvåbens nordligste base 1.207 km nord for polarcirklen og 1.524 km fra Nordpolen på den nordvestlige side af Grønland. Thule Air Base er hjemsted for 21. Space Wings globale netværk af sensorer, der leverer missiladvarsler, overvågning af rummet og kontrol af luftrummet til North American Aerospace Defense Command (NORAD) og Air Force Space Command (AFSPC). Thule Air Base er også hjemsted for den 821. Air Base Group, der er ansvarlig for basens forsyninger, og den 12. Space Warning Squadron (12 SWS), som driver det ballistiske missil Early Warning System (BMEWS). Thule er også vært for Detachment 1 af 23. Space Operations Squadron, en del af 50. Space Wing globale satellit-kontrol-netværk. Flyvepladsen har en 3.000 meters landingsbane, der håndterer mere end 1.000 amerikanske og internationale flyvninger om året. I 2015 er der cirka 200 amerikanske militærpersoner på Thule Air Base, støttet af ca. 400 civile kontraktansatte fra USA, Danmark og Grønland. Den gennemsnitlige tjenestetid for militært personale er kun et år på Thule Air Base på grund af de barske klimaforhold. 56

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Et hold teknikere gennemgår byggeriet af et af byggeriets værelser.

The engineering team discussing one of the dorm construction projects.

Den ene af sovesalene skal huse 54 mennesker og bliver bygget af entreprenørfirmaet MT Højgaard Greenland, og den anden skal huse 48 personer og er ved at blive bygget af entreprenørfirmaet Pilegaard-Henriksen. Sovesalene skal huse junior- og seniorunderofficerer på besøg eller midlertidigt ophold. Begge sovesale vil være på tre etager. Værelserne er opdelt i 4-personers moduler med individuelle badeværelser, walk-in closet, et fællesrum, køkken og vaskerum på hver etage. Der er også et fælles køkken-alrum i midten af hver etage med store vinduer, hvor der er udsigt over basen, så beboerne har et sted, hvor de kan slappe af og hygge sig. Sovesalene bygges ved hjælp af teknikker, der kan modstå det barske arktiske vejr. Det omfatter specielle arktiske fundamenter, stålrammer og isolerede paneler og metaltag udvendigt.

sovesale konstrueret med et specielt forhøjet fundament. Hvis bygningerne ikke er konstrueret fri af jorden, kan varmen fra bygningerne smelte permafrosten, hvilket gør jorden ustabil og kan få bygningerne til at synke. Bygningerne skal derfor være en meter over jorden via betonsøjler, der kommer op og støtter gulvsystemet over jorden. En anden udfordring er det begrænsede dagslys. På grund af Thules placering tæt på Nordpolen er der dagligt 24 timer med sollys fra maj til august og 24 timers mørke fra november til februar. Derfor er byggeriet begrænset til sommer- og efterårsmånederne, maj til oktober, hvor der er tilstrækkeligt sollys og temperaturer, der er tålelige at arbejde ved. Resten af året er der ikke nok lys, og vejret er for dårligt til at arbejde udendørs med temperaturer på minus 35 grader. Nogle gange er der endda lavere temperaturer, hvor vind plus kulde giver en kuldefaktor, der gør det umuligt at være udendørs.

Udfordringer ved at bygge i Arktis Byggeri i Arktis kan være en udfordring på grund af det hårde vejr og begrænsede dagslys, der kræver brug af unikke byggeteknikker og hurtig opførsel af byggeriet. En af udfordringerne er is. En stor del af det nordlige Grønland er dækket af permafrost, som er permanent frossen jord fra 2-500 meter i dybden. På grund af permafrost er begge

Travl sommer Det er kun i sommermånederne, at byggematerialer og brændstof kan fragtes til basen. Basen er indefrosset ni måneder af året, men i løbet af sommeren smelter havisen ud for Thule, og forsy-


Pilersuisoq is Greenland’s largest retail chain, with outlets in towns and villages all over the country, always near you.

Foto/Photo: Peterson Air Force Base

ningsskibene kan komme ind i basens havn. Da arbejdet skal udføres hurtigt, er de fleste byggematerialer præfabrikerede andetsteds, inden de afsendes. De præfabrikerede dele hjælper arbejderne til hurtigere at opføre byggeriet. Disse materialer omfatter betonfundamenter, bygningsstål, isolerede metalvægge og tagplader. Sovesalenes ydermure skal være færdige i løbet af sommeren, så det indvendige arbejde ikke afbrydes i vintermånederne. Det indvendige arbejde omfatter bl.a. konstruktion af mekani-

ske beskyttelsessystemer, elektricitet, VVS og brandsystemer, der er designet til at modstå de ekstreme minusgrader. Mange ting på Thule Air Base er uændrede, siden det amerikanske luftvåben ankom i 1950'erne; de barske

Polaroil is Greenland’s largest energy and oil supply company. Polaroil operates tank installations throughout Greenland.

vejrforhold, betydningen af basen for USA’s nationale sikkerhed og den målrettethed man møder hos de mænd og kvinder, der gør tjeneste der. Opførelsen af de to nye sovesale er derfor en velkommen ændring på basen.

All Greenland’s webshop, pisisa.gl, offers thousands of non-food products at competitive prices.

greenland today 24 2015 Providing vital supplies to every part of Greenland

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Foto/Photo: Peterson Air Force Base

erhverv / business

Top Priority on top of the world The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers maintains Thule Air Base, supporting US national security

Foto/Photo: mads nordlund

By JoAnne Castagna, Ed.D.

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Its 9:00 PM and 2 degrees in Thule Air Base located in the northwestern corner of Greenland. A team from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers are haggard after a long overnight flight that was followed by a day of visiting projects. They were about to call it a day when they decide to visit the base's museum. They step out of the sharp cold air into a warm building where they are greeted by a pleasant woman wearing a parka. She enthusiastically shows them around and tells them that she has been living and working at the remote base since the 1960's. On display are base memorabilia

including photos of visiting dignitaries, a large round radar screen, a wooden sled used by the Inuit people with a manikin wearing a fur hunting outfit. They're about to leave when she asks them if they want to see an old film strip about the base. Building the Air Base The film shows how the base was secretly and quickly constructed in the early 1950's because the United States felt a foreign threat. In record time massive amounts of supplies, equipment and 12,000 men were transported to Thule to construct


Contractors working inside one of the dormitories.

the base. This enormous effort, which included the Army Corps, was an incredible feat that was fueled by the country's intense need to preserve the American way of life. It seemed fitting that the team saw this film and met this devoted woman that night because it reminded them of why they were there. For decades the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, New York District has constructed facilities for the base, under extreme Arctic conditions. These projects have included aircraft runways, dormitories and medical centers. Presently, they are constructing two much needed dormitories. - These new dormitories will help to provide Airmen with the quality of life they deserve on a difficult assignment to Thule Air Base in the Arctic Circle, said New York District Commander Col. Paul Owen. - Thule's remoteness and harsh climate restricts all personnel assigned there to live on base, which is why it's so important to provide top notch housing facilities.

T.A.B. Thule Air Base – »Two Lee« – is the U.S. Armed Forces' northernmost installation that was established to perform national security. The Air Force performs several missions there including monitoring the United States Airspace for foreign missiles. To perform these missions, hundreds of active-duty U.S. Air Force personnel and American, Danish and Greenlandic civilian contractors are stationed there. Quality housing is needed for these individuals to keep them safe from the harsh weather and to keep their moral up in this remote area of the world. Both of the dormitories were designed by the Army Corps New York District and are being constructed by Danish contractors with the Army Corps supervision. The dorms will be ready for occupation in 2015. They are replacing old structures that were constructed in the 1950's that have seen wear from the harsh arctic climate. One of the dorms will house 54 people and is being constructed by

Contractor MT Højgaard Greenland, and the other will house 48 people and is being constructed by Contractor Pilegaard-Henriksen. The dorms will house junior and senior non-commissioned officers visiting or on temporary duty. Both dorms will be 3 stories. Rooms will be divided into 4bedroom modules with individual bathrooms, walk-in closets, a shared social space, housekeeping areas, and laundry rooms on each floor. There is also a common area day room with a kitchen with appliances in the center on each floor with large windows overlooking the base, providing occupants with a place where they can relax and socialize. The dorms are being constructed using techniques that will help them withstand the harsh Arctic elements. Techniques include using special arctic foundations, steel frames, insulated panel exteriors and pitched metal roofs. Challenges of constructing in the Arctic Construction in the Arctic can be challenging due to severe weather and 24 2015

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Foto/Photo: Stella Marco, Project Manager, New York District, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers

Håndværkere på arbejde inde i en af sovesalene.


Facts Thule Air Base is the United States Air Force's northernmost base, located 1,207 km (750 miles) north of the Arctic Circle and 1,524 km (947 miles) from the North Pole on the northwest side of Greenland. Thule Air Base is home to the 21st Space Wing's global network of sensors providing missile warning, space surveillance and space control to North American Aerospace Defense Command (NORAD) and Air Force Space Command (AFSPC). Thule Air Base is also home to the 821st Air Base Group who is responsible for the air base support, and the 12th Space Warning Squadron (12 SWS) which operates a Ballistic Missile Early Warning System (BMEWS). Thule is also host to Detachment 1 of the 23rd Space Operations Squadron, part of the 50th Space Wing's global satellite control network. The airfield's 10,000 feet (3,000 m)foot runway handles more than 1,000 U.S. and international flights per year. In 2015 there is approximately 200 American military personnel on Thule Air Base, supported by approximately 400 civilian contractors from the US, Denmark and Greenland. The average enrollment or tour of duty for military personnel is one year at Thule Air Base because of the harsh climate conditions. 60

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Foto/Photo: Stella Marco, Project Manager, New York District, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers

Foto/Photo: Peterson Air Force Base

About the Author Dr. JoAnne Castagna is a Public Affairs Specialist and Writer for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, New York District. She can be reached at joanne. castagna@usace.army.mil. Follow her on Twitter at http://twitter.com/writer4usacenyc

The 54 person dormitory under construction.

Sovesal til 54 personer under opførelse.

limited daylight, which requires the use of unique building techniques and fast paced construction. One of the challenges is ice. Most of northern Greenland is covered with permafrost, which is permanently frozen ground – ranging from 6 to 1,600 feet in depth. Because of permafrost, both dorms are being constructed with a special arctic foundation. This foundation will be elevated. If buildings are not constructed off of the ground, the heat from inside the building can melt the permafrost, making the ground unstable and causing buildings to sink. The buildings need to be elevated one meter from the ground. Buildings are elevated with the use of spread footings that go down about 10 feet deep, and concrete columns that come up and support the floor system above the ground. Another challenge is limited daylight. Because of Thule's proximity to the North Pole, it has 24-hours of sunlight from May through August and 24 hours of darkness from November through February. Because of the limited daylight, construction is then limited to the summer and autumn months, May thru October, because there is sufficient sunlight and

temperatures are bearable to work in. Temperatures can reach 40 degrees Fahrenheit. During the rest of the year, there is not enough light and the weather is too severe to work outdoors. Temperatures on average drop as low as minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit / minus 35 degrees celsius, sometimes even lower, and with stormy weather the wind makes the chillfactor so hard that it is impossible to be outdoors. Busy summer It is only during the summer months that shipments of building materials and fuel can be received via cargo. During the summer, Greenland's iced shipping lanes can be broken up to allow supply ships into port. Thule Air Base is locked in by ice nine months out of the year. Since work needs to be performed rapidly, most of the building materials are prefabricated elsewhere before being shipped in. Prefabricating the parts helps the workers to rapidly perform the construction. These materials include concrete foundations, structural steel, insulated metal walls and roof panels. The dorms outer shells must be completed during summer, so that interior work is not interrupted during the win-


Foto/Photo: Peterson Air Force Base

Foto/Photo: mads nordlund

ter months. This interior work will include constructing mechanical, electrical, plumbing and fire protection systems that are designed to withstand extreme frigid sub-zero temperatures.

There are many things about Thule Air Base that remain unchanged since the Air Force arrived in the 1950s; the harsh weather conditions, the importance of the base to our national security; and the

dedication of the men and women who serve the USA. The construction of two new dormitories is a welcome change to the Air Base!

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Historie / history

DYE-2

Tekst: Toke Brødsgaard

- et levn fra en ikke så fjern fortid

foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

Pilen sidder stadig på dartskiven, og øllet står stadig fremme på disken i baren. Så uberørt står DYE-2 hen. Langsomt har vejr og vind gjort sit indtog, og om nogle år vil det nok være svært at komme ind og se dette unikke, amerikanske koldkrigsminde midt på den grønlandske indlandsis.

Det er forbundet med en vis mystik at bevæge sig rundt på den nu nedlagte radarstation DYE-2, der ligger et godt stykke inde på den grønlandske Indlandsis. Stedet står så uberørt, at det virker som om alle med det samme forlod stedet, da stationen blev forladt i oktober 1988. Ved at bevæge sig rundt i bygningen kan man se, at værelser, barer og værksteder står, som da det blev forladt. Det eneste bevis på den tid, der er gået, er, at vejret har slået nogle ruder ind, så vinden og sneen har sneget

sig ind og har rodet lidt rundt i stilheden.

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foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

Midt i ingenting Den tidligere radarstation DYE-2 ligger på positionen 66° 29' 30" N, 46° 18' 19" W. Flyver man derind med en af Air Greenlands helikoptere, tager det ca. 1 time og 20 minutter fra Kangerlussuaq, der er den nærmeste civilisation. DYE-2 ligger ca. 2.300 meter over havet, solidt »plantet« i Indlandsisen. Det er en smuk flyvetur derind over fjeldene ved Kangerlussuaq og videre ind

foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

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over Indlandsisen. Det første, man ser, er den flade mørke is, der er blandet med aflejret grus langs iskanten. Derefter går turen over forrevet is, der tårner op som kirkespir eller tårne på slotte. Så flader isen ud, og man flyver over smukke kongeblå smeltevandsfloder og søer, indtil det hele bare er hvidt i hvidt. I det fjerne kan man pludselig ane en lille sort prik, der bliver større og større. Til sidst kan man se, at det er den enorme fodboldlignende kuppel, der udgør selve radaren på DYE-2. Selvom det er

destinationen for vores tur, bliver man noget overrasket over denne enorme bygning midt i ingenting. Distant Early Warning linjen DYE-2 var et stort foretagende. Da der var mest aktivitet, var der 60 mand på stationen. Det siger også lidt om størrelsen, da man i perioder ikke har kunne bevæge sig udenfor den store bygning, pga. kulde og storm, at bygningen har rummet så stort et mandskab. Strategisk var DYE-2 en


Kort, der viser »Distant Early Warning (DEW) Linjen«, som DYE-2 var en del af. Map showing the »Distant Early Warning (DEW) Line« which DYE-2 was part of.

Plantegninger over konstruktionen af DYE-2. Construction plans for DYE-2.

Opførelsen af DYE-2 Selve DYE-2 var noget af et byggeprojekt. Alt materiel blev fremstillet i USA og sejlet til basen ved Kangerlussuaq, der dengang gik under navnet Bluie West 8 (BW8). Derfra blev det lastet i de store C-130 transportfly med ski på, der kunne lande tæt på, hvor DYE-2 blev opført. Fundamentet er et enormt stålskrog bestående af 16 piller, hvoraf det meste af fundamentet i dag er dækket af isen. Konstruktionen krævede en kæmpe indsats, og de arbejdshold, der arbejde-

de med opførelsen, arbejdede 10 timer om dagen 7 dage om ugen. Efter to år stod anlægget klar i november 1960. Nedlukningen af DYE-2 I oktober 1988 lukkede DYE2. Det var dengang mekanikeren Torben Simonsen, der slukkede ned for den sidste generator. Han havde arbejdet på både DYE-1, DYE-2 og DYE-3. Årsagen til, at radiokæden blev lukket ned, var, at moderne teknologi efterhånden havde overhalet og overflødiggjort radarstationerne. Ligeledes var problemet med flere af stationerne, inklusiv DYE-2, at sne og is åd sig ind på stationerne år for år. Da DYE-2 og DYE-3 blev

Den forladte radarstation DYE-2.

lukket ned, forsvandt også grundlaget for basen BW8, da den havde været anvendt som forsyningsbase for DYE-stationerne, og basen lukkede i 1992. Stadig amerikansk aktivitet Selvom radarstationen er forladt, er der stadig folk i nærheden. Her ligger Camp Raven, der drives af det amerikanske National Science Foundation (NSF) meget tæt på DYE-2. Camp Raven er også det sted i Arktis, hvor amerikanerne siden 1995 har trænet i at lande med deres Hercules LC-130 fly med ski på. Denne træning er vigtig for amerikanerne, så de er i stand til at lande på Sydpolen, hvor de har en lang

række forskningsaktiviteter. I en mindre skala finder disse også sted i Grønland, blandt andet ved Camp Raven, hvor der via følere i isen undersøges, hvor meget den grønlandske iskappe flytter sig fra år til år. Fra forår til efterår bor der et yngre amerikansk ægtepar på Camp Raven. De præparerer landingsbanerne og sørger for, at der er ryddet sne omkring brændstofdepoterne. Det giver en ide om, hvordan livet på DYE-2 har været, for det er fascinerende at møde mennesker, der bor isoleret på indlandsisen midt i det »store hvide ingenting«. Se mere lswilson.dewlineadventures. com

The abandoned radar station DYE-2.

foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

vigtig position, da den var en del af radiokæden Distant Early Warning (DEW). Den var oprettet for at kunne advare om et eventuelt sovjetisk luftangreb mod USA under Den Kolde Krig. DEW-linjen bestod i Grønland af DYE-1, der ligger lidt udenfor Sisimiut, DYE-2 og DYE-3, der ligeledes ligger på den grønlandske iskappe dog længere mod øst, og DYE-4 der ligger ikke langt fra Kulusuk i Østgrønland. DEW var en kæde af i alt 60 radiostationer, der strækker sig i et 5.800 km langt bælte langs den 69. nordlige breddegrad fra Alaska over Canada via Grønland til Island. Selve radiokæden var aktiv i perioden fra 31. juli 1957 og frem til slutningen af 1980’erne.

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Historie / history

DYE-2 - a relic from a not so distant past

In the middle of nowhere The former radar station DYE-2 is located at 66° 29' 30" N, 46° 18' 19" W. If you fly in with one of Air Greenland’s helicopters, it takes about one hour and 20 minutes from Kangerlussuaq which is the nearest civilisation. DYE-2 is situated about 2,300m above sea level, solidly »planted« on the ice sheet. The flight out is beautiful, over the mountains at Kangerlussuaq and onwards over the ice sheet. The first thing you see is the flat dark ice mixed with deposited gravel at the edges. The journey

foto/photo: Bill Lane

There is an air of mystery when you move around the now abandoned DYE-2 radar station which is located quite a long way out on the ice cap in Greenland. The site remains so untouched that it is as if everyone left the place at the same time when it was abandoned in October 1988. Moving around the building, you can see rooms, bars and workshops in the same state in which they were left. The only evidence that time has passed, is that the weather has broken some windows and the snow has sneaked in and disturbed the peace.

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Raising the columns for the main building. Søjlerne til hovedbygningen bliver rejst.

The Distant Early Warning Line DYE-2 was a major undertaking. At its most active, there were 60 men at the station. The fact that the building was able to accommodate such a large staff during periods when it was impossible to go outside because of cold and storms says a lot about its size. Strategically, DYE-2 was in an important position, since it was a part of the Distant Early Warning (DEW) radar line. It was established to warn of any Soviet air attacks against the USA during the cold war. The DEW Line con-

then continues over rugged ice that towers up like church steeples or castle turrets. The ice flattens out and you fly over beautiful royal blue meltwater rivers and lakes until everything becomes white in white. In the distance, you can suddenly discern a tiny black speck that gets bigger and bigger. At last, you can see that it is the enormous football-like dome which is the actual radar at DYE-2. Although this is the destination for the journey, it is surprising to find this huge building out in the middle of nowhere.

foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

The dart is still in the dartboard and the beer is still on the counter in the bar. So untouched is DYE-2. Slowly, the weather and wind have encroached and in a few years it will probably be difficult to get in and see this unique, American cold war relic on the ice sheet in Text: Toke Brødsgaard Greenland.

The weather has broken some windows, letting the snow in. Vejret har knust nogle ruder, hvor sneen kan komme ind.


Model showing the location of the radar in the dome Model, der viser radarens placering i kuplen.

foto/photo: air greenland

Air Greenland’s subsidiary »Glace« on a visit during the construction of DYE-2.

The construction of DYE-2 DYE-2 itself was something of a construction project. All the material was manufactured in the USA and sailed to the base at Kangerlussuaq, which was called Bluie West 8 (BW8) in those days. From there, the material was loaded into the large C-130 transport aircraft which were equipped with skis and able to land close to the DYE-2 construction site. The foundation is an enormous steel framework consisting of 16 columns, most of which are covered by ice to-

foto/photo: Bill Lane

Continued American activity Although the radar station has been abandoned there are still people nearby. Very

The temporary camp for the construction workers. Den midlertidige lejr for byggeriets arbejdere.

foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

Shutting down DYE-2 DYE-2 was shut down in October 1988. Mechanic Torben Simonsen turned off the last generator. He had worked on DYE-1, DYE-2 and DYE-3. The radar chain was shut down because modern technology had overtaken and made the radar stations obsolete. In addition, several of the stations, including DYE-2, were threatened year after year by the encroaching snow and ice. When DYE-2 and DYE-3 were shut down, there was no longer any need for the BW8 base which had been used as a supply base for the DYE stations and the base was closed in 1992.

close to DYE-2 is Camp Raven, which is run by the American National Science Foundation (NSF). Camp Raven is the place in the Arctic where, since 1995, Americans have trained landing their ski-equipped Hercules LC-130 aircraft. This training is important to the Americans because it enables them to land at the South Pole, where they have many research activities. On a smaller scale, these also take place in Greenland, e.g. at Camp Raven, where sensors in the ice are used to study how much the Greenland ice cap moves each year. From spring to autumn, a young married couple from USA live at Camp Raven. They prepare the runways and clear snow from around the fuel depots. This must have been what life was like at DYE-2 and it is fascinating to meet people who live isolated on the ice cap in the middle of the »the big white nothing«.

Camp Raven close to DYE-2. Camp Raven tæt på DYE-2.

foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

day. The construction required a huge effort and the teams working on construction worked 10 hours a day, seven days a week. In November 1960, after two years’ work, the facility was complete.

See more lswilson.dewlineadventures. com

Smukke dybblå smeltevandsfloder og søer på overfladen af indlandsisen. Beautiful deep blue melt-water rivers and lakes on the surface of the ice cap.

foto/photo: toke brødsgaard

sisted in Greenland of DYE-1, which is located just outside Sisimiut, DYE-2 and DYE-3, which are located further to the east on the Greenland ice sheet and DYE-4 which is located not far from Kulusuk in East Greenland. DEW was a chain of a total of 60 radar stations stretching over a 5,800km long line along the 69th parallel north from Alaska over Canada via Greenland to Iceland. The actual radar chain was active from July 31st 1957 until the end of the 1980s.

foto/photo: Ed Stockard

Air Greenlands datterselskab »Glace« på besøg under opførelsen af DYE-2.


oplevelser / adventure

Sirius patruljen

Morten Hilmer var 25 år, da han startede i Sirius i 2005. Som dreng havde han været i Nuuk på ferie et par gange for at besøge et familiemedlem, der arbejdede på Hotel Hans Egede. Desuden havde hans far tidligere arbejdet i Grønland, og hans mor snakkede altid begejstret om Grønland. Derfor legede han allerede som dreng, at han var på Sirius-tur med legetøjsslæde og soldatertøj, og siden han fyldte 14 år, drømte han om en dag at søge optagelse i Slædepatruljen Sirius. Han læste mange bøger om Sirius og håbede at blive en af de få udvalgte. - Jeg havde en voldsom trang til at få afprøvet mine grænser, hvor man kun var afhængig af sine hænder og sit hoved – uden sikkerhedsline, fortæller Morten Hilmer. Det er under mentalt og fysisk pres, at man oplever, hvad stof man er lavet af. - Da jeg var færdig med min sergentuddannelse, søgte jeg ind første gang. Jeg havde en kæreste og var måske ikke mentalt klar, så det lykkedes ikke. Så tog jeg en studentereksamen og søgte ind igen. Denne gang var jeg 100% fokuseret, havde trænet mig 66

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selv op fysisk, var blevet livredder, løb, svømmede, cyklede, og dyrkede orienteringsløb – så jeg var helt klar, da jeg kom til samtale i 2004. Velkommen til Daneborg - Da jeg landede på Daneborg for første gang, var min drøm gået i opfyldelse. Her stod jeg med Grønland foran mine øjne og havde lige fået mit Sirius-mærke, jeg skulle sy på mit tøj. - Jeg kan huske, at jeg tænkte »det her er en af de største oplevelser i mit liv«, fordi jeg havde opnået mine drømmes mål. Det var fandeme stort, og alle mulige tanker for igennem mit hoved, om familien og om at være langt væk hjemmefra med masser af frihed og eventyr i vente. Det føltes helt rigtigt. En standardkontrakt er 26 måneder. Efter det første år har man en uges ferie på Island, hvor man får ordnet tænder med mere. Første år er man som »yngste mand« i lære, andet år er man »ældste mand«. Et gennemtestet system, der sikrer, at man lærer fra en, der har været der. Dermed sikres også, at ingen viden går tabt, men at erfaringerne konstant overdrages til de næste.

Systemet sikrer også, at ingen »sidder fast«, men at alle kommer videre bagefter. Efter de to år kan man kun tage ét år mere som enten afløser eller chef. Daneborg er hovedkontor for Slædepatruljen Sirius. Desuden er der sommerstation på Ella Ø station i Kong Oskars fjord tæt på Mestersvig. Der er i gennemsnit 50 egnede ansøgere hvert år, men der skal kun bruges seks. Der udtages syv til Sirius forskole, der varer ca. ½ år. Undervejs sorteres den sidste mand fra. - Det gælder ikke om at kunne tage flest armbøjninger eller om at løbe hurtigst. Det gælder om at finde en dynamisk gruppe, der kan arbejde sammen og har forskellige kompetencer. Der er som regel mange håndværkere imellem, forklarer Morten Hilmer. På basen er der seks slædehold, hvert bestående af to mand og 12 hunde. Der køres ud på forårstur fra januar til juni og efterårsturen fra november til december. I den ca. fire måneders korte sommer er der travlt. Her sejles og flyves depoter ud, og årets ene skib ankommer med forsyninger.


Hundene er en uundværlig del af Slædepatruljen Sirius. The dogs are an indispensible part of the Sirius Sled Patrol.

Morten Hilmer.

Et ophold i Sirius er ikke en udfordring som at løbe et maraton, men et 26-måneders langt sejt træk, hvor du er 100% afhængig af det, du har lært, din makker, dine slædehunde, din forstand, din fysiske form og dine evner til at kombinere det hele, da prisen for at lave fejl kan være dit liv. Det fortæller naturfotograf Morten Hilmer i dette interview om sin tjenestetid i en af verdens hårdeste specialenheder. Tekst: Mads Nordlund, Foto: Morten Hilmer

Vejr og kulde - Man føler ikke kulden på samme måde i Grønland på grund af den lave luftfugtighed. Lige når man ankommer, føles det koldt, men når man bor der, vænner man sig gradvist til det. Når der var besøg, kom gæsterne i store jakker, mens vi gik i arbejdsskjorter, fortæller Morten og smiler ved mindet. - Det samme med lyset. Det forsvinder gradvist. Første dag solen ikke står op, tænker man »hold da op«. Jeg synes, det var spændende, og glædede mig til mørketiden og stilheden. Vandet og elvene stopper med at løbe, fordi de fryser til. Fjordene fryser også, så der er ingen bølger eller dønninger, der skvulper mod land. De små fugle flyver sydpå, så fuglesangen forstummer. Kun ravnene overvintrer. Og så kommer et tykt lag sne, der yderligere dæmper det hele. - Man skal have respekt for vejret. Det er ikke til at spøge med. Uanset udstyr er man færdig, hvis man ikke respekterer vejret. Der kommer enorme storme, der kan vare 4-5 dage. Vi lå engang vejrfast fire dage. Selvom teltet var tøjret til slæden, blev det smadret i stormen, og vi måtte bruge vores reservetelt. I

Nordøstgrønland er vejret livsfarligt, hvis man ikke er forberedt og er udstyret til at håndtere det. Så er det lige meget, om du er én eller 1000 km hjemmefra. - Jeg elskede snestormene, fordi jeg synes, de var fantastiske. Engang skulle jeg tilse mine hunde på Daneborg, da et vindstød smed mig i grøften. Der var kun en meter ned, men jeg mistede orienteringen og gik rundt i blinde. Her var jeg i fare kun 50 meter fra en varm stue. Ved at følge hegnet troede jeg, at jeg kunne komme ind igen, men jeg gik i den forkerte retning. Hvis jeg ikke havde haft hegnet, kunne jeg være faret vild lige ved siden af vore base. - Det er helt normalt at ligge vejrfast flere dage på grund af storm. Slæde og telt står op mod vinden for at danne en fane af sne bag teltet, så indgangen er fri, og man ikke sner inde. Vækkeuret sættes til hver time, hvor man skal ud og se til hundene, så de ikke »sner nede«. De ligger tøjret til en lang kæde, og hvis en hund har tisset på kæden, kan den fryse fast til underlaget og holde dem nede, hvis der er kraftigt snefald. Så må man ud i stormen og hive kæden fri.

- Et helt specielt fænomen er den varme fønvind. Man kan have kørt hele dagen i minus 25 grader. Pludselig vågner man midt om natten, fordi der er plus 10 grader. Udenfor ligger hundene og koger på ryggen, og vi dansede rundt i undertøj og nød det, indtil kulden satte ind igen. En surrealistisk men fed oplevelse. Ellers er det kun »varmt«, når slæden sidder fast op ad en bakke, og man bakser sammen med hundene for at få den fri. - Den laveste temperatur, jeg har oplevet, var minus 51 grader ved Wulfland. Vi kørte lige så stille, for både hundene og vi selv blev meget trætte af kulden. Men vi skulle hjemad og var nødt til at køre i gennemsnit 30 km om dagen. Firbenede kammerater Slædehundene er oprindelige grønlandske slædehunde. Gen-variationen er enormt stor, og for at undgå indavl købes hunde fra Ittoqqortoormiit, Ilulissat og Qaanaaq. Dermed har Sirius efterhånden opbygget en meget stærk stamme. - Hundene betyder alt. Hvis ikke Sirius var baseret på hunde og slædekørsel, havde jeg ikke været der, siger Morten. 24 2015

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Sirius’ tomandstelt – »en lille transportabel ét-værelses lejlighed«. Sirius two-man tent – »A small, portable studio apartment«.

Slædepatruljen Sirius Specialenhed i Det danske Forsvar under Arktisk Kommando. Har håndhævet Danmarks suverænitet i den fredede Nationalpark i Nordøstgrønland siden 1950. Hovedkontor på Daneborg station på østkysten ca. 700 km nord for polarcirklen, sommerstation på Ella Ø i Kong Oscars fjord. Enheden består af 12 mænd, der patruljerer området med hundeslæder om vinteren og med båd om sommeren, hvor der udlægges vinterdepoter. Det er i gennemsnit 50 ansøgere om året, og syv soldater tages ind på forskole i et halvt år, hvoraf de seks ender med at gøre tjeneste i Sirius. Tjenestetiden er 26 måneder kun afbrudt af en uges ophold på Island. Kilde: Det danske Forsvar

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- Jeg er imponeret over, hvad hundene kan klare i frost og lave temperaturer. Blev en hund syg, kørte den med på slæden, til den var ok igen. - Man bruger et par minutter ved hver hund hver aften. En hund kan også have en dårlig dag, og så skulle der snakkes lidt ekstra med den og kløes lidt mere bag ørerne. - Det er et spørgsmål om at tage sit materiel seriøst. Hundene skal være ved godt mod, og de skal respektere dig. Forskellen på, om hundene er bange for dig eller kan lide dig, er hvis hanefoden springer (tovet mellem slæde og hunde/ red.) Er de bange for dig, så løber de hjem. Kan de lide dig, så kommer de tilbage, når vi fløjter. - Et hundespand er som 12 ekstra kammerater. Behandler man dem godt, giver de noget tilbage. De fodres ved, at der lægges mad ud, og de spiser først, når man siger værsgo. - Man betragter hundene som individer, ikke som et kobbel. Derfor kan man kalde på dem enkeltvis. Førerhunden kan godt være en tæve, og ind imellem være forrest. Men »basen« – den der bestemmer – er altid en hanhund af stor kaliber. - Der er hundehuse ved Daneborg, og hundene kan godt lide at ligge oven på

dem. De går næsten kun ind i dem, når det regner. Sneen elsker de at ligge ude i, og at hundene generelt bruger dem så lidt skyldes nok, at en slædehund frarøves sine sanser inde i et hundehus. Mange minder - Jeg har mange minder fra tiden i Sirius, og det er svært at fremhæve den ene episode fra den anden efter månedsvis af flotte naturoplevelser. Der var også mange sjove ting. F.eks. når man kan høre ens kammerat, der er på toilet udenfor teltet i en storm, bande over, at toiletpapiret er blæst væk. Der var også flere farlige situationer med Nationalparkens vilde dyr, fortæller Morten. - Vi var engang ved en hytte, hvor en isbjørn kom helt hen til hundene. - Vi skød med signalpistol for at skræmme den væk, men i stedet kom den efter os. Vi kunne ikke lukke døren til hytten på grund af sne, og det endte med, vi måtte skyde den. Den lå kun 80 cm fra os, da den faldt. - En anden gang ankom vi sent på dagen til et depot. Jeg havde pandelampe på og løb forrest med hundene. De stoppede og kiggede ind til højre og knurrede. Der stod en moskustyr. Jeg havde ski på og kunne ikke rigtig kom-


Desværre måtte Mortens og hans makker skyde en Isbjørn, der ikke ville lade sig skræmme væk. Den lå kun 80 cm foran hytten, hvor de ikke kunne lukke døren på grund af sne. Morten and his teammate were unfortunately forced to shoot a polar bear that would not be scared off. It fell just 80cm from the front of the cabin where the door was blocked open by snow.

me væk. Jeg blev viklet ind i skaglerne (hundenes snore/red.), da tyren gik til angreb på hundene, og jeg lå midt i det hele. Jeg lå på ryggen og tog ladegreb på min pistol. Og selvom jeg skyder fem skud mod tyren, dør den ikke. Først da jeg får skiene af, kan jeg komme op og aflive den med et skud i hjertet. - Det var tæt på, siger Morten eftertænksomt. Men ikke det værste. Han mener, alle Sirius folk ved, hvad han mener. - Det værste er den sidste dag. Man glæder sig til at komme hjem og se sin familie. Men det sidste farvel til hundene er slemt. Når man går rundt og klapper dem og virkelig forstår, at nu er det slut, og at man aldrig skal se dem igen. De nære ting - I dag vil mange afprøve deres grænser, løbe et maraton, osv. Teste deres stædighed og stolthed. Jeg er evigt taknemmelig for at have oplevet situationer, hvor det ikke var de to ting, men overlevelse. Det var ikke et spørgsmål om en tid i et løb, men et langt sejt træk, hvor du er 100% afhængig af det, du har lært, og dig selv som menneske. Det er ekstremt livsbekræftende at have klaret det og vide, man

har gjort de rigtige ting i de enkelte situationer, siger Morten. - Det kræver også noget mentalt at være i Sirius. Ikke mindst, når man kører to mand i månedsvis alene i vildmarken. I starten siger man meget. Efterhånden har man snakket tingene igennem og begynder at tænke meget. - Efter mange dage med white-out, hvor man er afskåret fra alle indtryk og ikke får nogle nye input, kommer man til bunds i sine tanker. Efter timer i kulde og et hvidt landskab af sne og is kommer man i en trance-lignende tilstand. Lyden af hundenes poter, slæden og skiene virker som meditation, og man opnår et andet bevidsthedsniveau, hvor der nemt kan gå tre kvarter uden en tanke. - Det var også fantastisk at opleve, at de ting, man savner – det, der virkelig betyder noget for en, ikke er mobiltelefonen, computeren eller alt muligt andet, man har samlet sammen. - Det, man savner mest, er de relationer, man har til venner og familie, og de oplevelser, man har haft sammen. Derfor prioriterer jeg meget ikke at have for travlt, når jeg er hjemme. Man skal huske at sætte pris på de nære ting. - Generelt kan man jo sige, at vi har levet to mand i en lille transportabel ét-værelses lejlighed med hunde foran.

Det var ikke en stor autocamper med tv og alt det udstyr, folk skal have nu om dage for at synes, det er ok at tage på camping. Men vi havde nordlys, og hvem har ellers det? smiler Morten. - Det handler om at komme sikkert frem, have mad til sig selv og hundene, holde humøret oppe. Vi var ikke i toppen af behovspyramiden, men beskæftigede os med de helt basale ting. - Der er kæmpe forskel på at skyde en stump af et isbjerg for at smelte vand uden salt i og en voksen mand, der ligger i kø uden for Apple Store for at få den nyeste iPhone. - Jeg var mindst ligeså lykkelig, da jeg kørte rundt i Nordgrønland uden ret mange ting, som jeg er nu med al mulig teknik omkring mig. - Vi havde telt, sovepose, mad til mænd og hunde, kogeudstyr, spisegrej, radio, iridium telefon, GPS , førstehjælpsudstyr, riffel og pistol, signalpistol, toiletgrej, dagbog, kamera, bog at læse i, som man bytter med makkeren undervejs, og i depotet værktøj, hundeseler, sygrej og andet funktionsudstyr. Begrænsningen er, hvor meget der kan være på slæden. Jo mere man har med, jo nemmere kan den vælte eller gå igennem isen, og jo sværere er den at få op ad fjeldene. 24 2015

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Naturfotograf Morten Hilmer n Født 1980 n Gjorde tjeneste i Slædepatruljen Sirius 2005-2007. n Var allerede interesseret i fotografi inden tiden i Sirius og tog mange billeder i Nordøstgrønland. n Arbejder i dag primært som fotograf og foredragsholder. Hjemmeside mortenhilmer.com

- Efter nogle måneder i Sirius havde jeg tabt 12 kilo. Vi havde bl.a. været ude at køre fra Wulfland til Station Nord i seks uger. Selvom vi har god hygiejne undervejs, har man jo ikke badet i de uger, man kører. Vi synes ikke selv, vi lugtede efter en tur, men de andre sagde, vi ikke måtte komme ind, før vi havde badet. Jeg kan huske, at jeg undrede mig over vandet i brusebadet var brunt, indtil det gik op for mig, at det var skidt, sved, hundelort, etc. fra mig selv. Livet efter Sirius - Jeg er vild med Grønland og kan tage af sted alene, fordi jeg har lært at overleve i vildmarken. Jeg arbejder meget i naturen og har også rejst i Finland, Norge, osv., fortæller Morten, der i dag er selvstændig med eget firma. - Jeg lever af at fotografere, udstille og at sælge billeder og videoer. Desuden har jeg udgivet en børnebog – den første i en serie om vilde dyr. - Jeg arrangerer også kurser, ture og foredrag. Kurserne er fotokurser og foredragene er om mine eventyr med kameraet og om det at turde tro på

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sine drømme her i livet – og forfølge dem. Foredragene er for alle lige fra efterskoler og oplysningsforbund til store virksomheder og sportsklubber, forklarer Morten. - Jeg er nok bedst til noget med motivation og at gøre sig umage. Jeg har stor respekt for folk, uanset hvad de laver, men noget af det, jeg ikke er god til, er sløseri – eller hvis man ikke gør sig umage. - Jeg mener, alle skal forfølge deres drøm. Man skal ikke sidde tilbage med en følelse af, at man skulle have prøvet. Man skal tro på det og prøve. Det gælder alle ting her i livet. - Fysik og vilje er vigtige faktorer, men det allervigtigste er, at du kan samarbejde. Det er et fælles træk for alle specialenheder. Og så skal man kunne motivere sig selv, så man kan klare en træls opgave. - Uanset hvor lang vejen er, starter den jo med, at man sætter det ene ben foran det andet. Hvis man tror på det og forsætter hele vejen, ender det med, at man kommer i mål. Det gælder, uanset hvor langt fra målet man er, når man starter, slutter Morten Hilmer.


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The Sirius Sled Patrol

Morten Hilmer was 25 years old when he started with Sirius in 2005. As a boy, he had spent a couple of holidays in Nuuk, visiting a relative who worked at Hotel Hans Egede. His father had also previously worked in Greenland and his mother always spoke of Greenland with enthusiasm. So when he was a boy, he played with a toy sled and soldier’s clothes, pretending he was with Sirius on a trip. Since his fourteenth birthday, he had dreamed of being a member of the Sirius Sled Patrol. He read many books about Sirius and hoped to be selected as a member. - I had a very strong need to test my own boundaries in a situation where I was dependent upon my hands and my head – no safety net, says Morten Hilmer. It is when you are under mental and physical duress that you find out what you are made of. - I applied to the patrol for the first time after I finished sergeant training. I had a girlfriend and perhaps I was not ready mentally, so I didn’t succeed. Then I got my high school diploma and applied again. This time I was 100 per cent focused, I had built up my body, I was a lifeguard and I ran, swam, cycled and took part in orienteering races – so I was completely ready at the interview in 2004. 72

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Welcome to Daneborg - When I landed at Daneborg for the first time, my dream had come true. Here I was, with my eyes on Greenland and I had just been given the Sirius badge to sew onto my clothes. - I can remember thinking »this is one of the biggest moments of my life«, because my dream had come true. It was damned huge and all kinds of thoughts ran through my head, about my family and about being a long way from home with plenty of liberty and adventures to come. It felt absolutely right. A standard contract is 26 months. After the first year, you get a week’s holiday on Iceland where you get a dental check etc. The first year, you are the »young« man and in training, the second year you are the »old« man. It is a tried and tested method that makes sure you learn from someone who has been there. This also ensures that no knowledge is lost and that knowhow is constantly passed on to the next person. The method also ensures that no-one »gets stuck« and that everyone moves on afterwards. After the-two year period, you can take one more year, either as a substitute or as a leader. Daneborg is headquarters for the Sirius Sled Patrol. There is also a summer

station on Ella Island, in King Oskar’s Fjord near Mestersvig. On average, there are 50 suitable candidates each year, but only six are needed. Seven are selected for Sirius preparatory-school which lasts about six months. The final man is weeded out in the process. - It is not about doing the most ushups or running faster. It is about finding a dynamic group of people who can work together and who have different skills. The group usually includes many craftsmen, explains Morten Hilmer. There are six sled teams consisting of two men and twelve dogs on the base. They do a spring trip from January to June and an autumn trip from November to December. The short, four month summer is very busy. Supply depots are flown or sailed out and the one annual ship arrives with supplies. Weather and cold - You don’t feel cold in the same way in Greenland because of the low humidity. When you arrive, it feels cold, but when you live there, you gradually become accustomed to it. When there were visitors, they wore big jackets, while we wore work shirts, says Morten and smiles at the memory. - It’s the same with the light. It


A tour of duty with Sirius is not a challenge like running a marathon. Instead it is a 26-month long haul where you are 100% dependent upon what you have learned, upon your partner, your sled dogs, your intellect, your fitness level and your ability to combine it all, because the cost of making a mistake could very well be your life. Nature photographer Morten Hilmer explains in this interview about his tour of duty with one of the world’s toughest special units. Text: Mads Nordlund, Photo: Morten Hilmer

disappears gradually. The first day the sun doesn’t come up you think »Wow«. I thought it was exciting and looked forward to the dark time and the quiet. The water and the rivers stop running because they freeze. The fjord freezes too, so there are no waves or swells that lap at the shore. The small birds fly south so there is no birdsong. Only the ravens overwinter. And then a thick layer of snow comes that muffles everything even more. - But you must have respect for the weather. It is not something you mess around with. Regardless of what equipment you have, you will die if you don’t respect the weather. There are violent storms that can last 4-5 days. We were once stuck for four days in bad weather. Although the tent was tied to the sled, it was ruined by the storm and we had to use our reserve tent. In Northeast Greenland it is potentially fatal to be unprepared and unequipped to deal with the cold. And it doesn’t matter whether you are one kilometre or one thousand kilometres from home. - I loved the snowstorms, I thought they were marvellous. Once, when I went to see to my dogs at Daneborg a gust of wind blew me into the ditch. It was only a metre deep, but I lost my bearings and got turned around. Here, I

was in peril just 50 metres from a warm room. I thought I could follow the fence to get back, but I took the wrong direction. If I had not had the fence, I could have got lost right next to our camp. - It is quite common to get stuck in a place for several days because of a storm. The sled and tent stand up against the wind to form a plume of snow behind the tent so the entrance is kept free and you don’t get snowed in. The alarm clock is set to ring each hour and you have to go out and see to the dogs so they don’t get »snowed in«. They lie tied to one long chain and if a dog pees on the chain, it can freeze to the ground and hold them down if there is heavy snowfall. So you have to go out into the storm and pull the chain loose. - There is also a special phenomenon – the warm Foehn wind. You can drive all day in minus 25 degrees. Suddenly you awake in the middle of the night because it is plus 10 degrees. Outside, the dog lie on their backs boiling and we dance around in our underwear enjoying it, until the cold returns. It is a surrealistic, but cool experience. Otherwise, it is only »warm« when the sled gets stuck going up a slope and you struggle with the dogs to set it free.

- The lowest temperature I have experienced was minus 51 degrees at Wulfland. We drove at a very calm pace, because the cold had made us and the dogs very tired. But we had to head home and we had to travel an average of 30km per day. Four-legged friends The sled dogs are original Greenlandic sled dogs. The genetic variation is extremely wide and to avoid in-breeding, the dogs are acquired in Ittoqqortoormiit, Ilulissat and Qaanaaq. This means that Sirius has built a very strong strain. - The dogs mean everything. If Sirius was not based on dogs and sledding, I would not have been there, says Morten. - I am impressed by how much they can handle in frost and low temperatures. If a dog became ill, it rode on the sled until it was OK again. - You spend a few minutes with each dog every evening. A dog can have a bad day, too, so you have to talk to it for a bit longer and scratch a little more behind its ears. - It is a question of taking your equipment seriously. The dogs have to be happy and they must have respect for you. The difference between the dogs being afraid of you or liking you 24 2015

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is evident if the gangline snaps (the line between the sled and the dogs/Ed). If they are afraid of you, they run home. If they like you, they come back when you whistle. - A team of dogs is like having 12 extra comrades. If you treat them well, they give you something in return. At feeding time, you lay the food out and they don’t eat until you give the word. - You think of the dogs as individuals, not as a pack. This is why you can call to them separately. The lead dog may well be a bitch and sometimes be in front. But the »boss« – the one in charge – is always a male dog of high calibre. - There are doghouses at Daneborg and the dogs like to lie on top of them. They only go in when it rains. They love to lie in the snow. They probably use the houses so little, because a sled dog is robbed of its senses inside a doghouse. Many memories - I have many memories from my time with Sirius and it is difficult to single out any particular episode after months of beautiful nature experiences. There were also many amusing things, like hearing one of your mates swearing outside the tent in a storm after the toilet paper has blown away. There were also several dangerous situations with the wild animals in the national park, says Morten. - Once, we were at a cabin where a polar bear came right up to the dogs. - We discharged a flare gun to scare it off, but it came after us instead. We couldn’t close the door to the cabin because of the snow and in the end we 74

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had to shoot the bear. It was only 80cm away from us when it fell. - Another time, we arrived at the depot late in the day. I was wearing a forehead light and ran ahead with the dogs. They stopped and looked to the right, growling. There stood a musk-ox bull. I was wearing skis and couldn’t really get away. I became entangled in the traces (the dogs’ leads / Ed.) when the bull attacked the dogs and I was in the middle of it all. I lay on my back and took aim with my pistol. And although I shot and hit the bull five times, it didn’t die. It wasn’t until I got my skis off and stood up that I was able to kill it with a shot to the heart. - It was a close call, says Morten thoughtfully. But not the worst. He believes that all the Sirius folk know what he is talking about. - The worst thing is the last day. You look forward to going home and seeing your family. But the last goodbye to the dogs is terrible. You go round and pat them and it hits you, that it is over and you will never see them again. The things close to you - Today, many people want to test their limits – run marathons etc. Testing their tenacity and pride. I am very thankful that I have experienced situations where it wasn’t these two things, but my survival that was on the line. It was not a question of a running time in a race, but of a long, tough haul where you are 100% dependent on what you have learned and on yourself as a person. It is very validating to have succeeded and to know you did the right thing in each situation, says Morten.

- It also requires mental strength to be part of Sirius. Not least when two men drive for months alone in the wilderness. In the beginning, you talk a lot. After a while, you have talked everything through and you start to think a lot. - After many days in a white-out where you are cut off from everything and there is no new in-put, you get to the bottom of your thoughts. After hours in a cold, white landscape of snow and ice, you go into a trance-like state. The sound of the dogs’ paws, the sled and the skis promote a kind of meditation and you attain another level of consciousness and can easily spend 45 minutes without a thought. - It was also wonderful to discover that the things you miss, the things that are really important, are not your cell phone, computer or any of the other stuff you have accumulated. - What you really miss are the relationships you have with your friends and family and your experiences together with them. This is why it is a high priority for me not to be too busy when I am home. You must remember to appreciate the things that are close to you. - Generally, you could say that we were two men living in a small portable studio apartment with dogs in front. It wasn’t a big auto-camper with TV and all the equipment people need nowadays to feel comfortable camping. But we had Northern lights. Who else has that? smiles Morten. - It is all about travelling safely, securing food for yourself and the dogs and staying cheerful. We were not at the top of the hierarchy of needs; we were occupied with the basics.


- There is a huge difference between shooting a chunk of iceberg to melt into water without salt and an adult man lying in line outside an Apple Store to get the newest iPhone. - I was just as happy when I travelled round North Greenland without much of anything, as I am now surrounded by all kinds of technical stuff. - We had a tent, a sleeping bag, food for men and dogs, cooking equipment, eating utensils, radio, iridium telephone, GPS, first aid kit, rifle and pistol, flare gun, toiletries, a journal, a camera, a book to read, which you swapped with your partner or in a depot on the way, tools, dog harnesses, sewing equipment and other necessities. The limitation lies in what fits on the sled. The more you take, the higher the likelihood of tipping over or breaking through the ice and the harder it is to travel up slopes. - After a few months with Sirius I had lost 12 kilos. We had driven out from Wulfland to Station Nord for six weeks. Although we maintain good hygiene on the way, you do not bathe during the weeks when you are travelling. We didn’t think we smelled bad after the trip, but the others said were couldn’t come in, until we had bathed. I remember that I wondered why the water in the bottom of the shower was brown, until I realized that it was dirt, sweat and dog shit etc. from me. Life after Sirius - I am passionate about Greenland and I can travel on my own, because I have learned how to survive in the wilderness. I work a lot with nature and I have also travelled in Finland, Norway etc.,

says Morten, who is self-employed with his own business. - I make my living photographing, exhibiting and selling pictures and videos. I have also written a children’s book– the first in a series about wild animals. - I arrange courses, trips and talks. The courses are photo courses and the talks are about my adventures with a camera and about having the courage to believe in the dreams you have for your own life – and to follow them. The talks are given at anything from second-chance schools and educational associations to large corporations and sports clubs, explains Morten. - I am probably best with things like motivation and making an effort. I have a great respect for people, regardless of what they do, but I am not very good at sloppiness – or if people don’t make the effort. - I believe everyone should follow their dreams. You shouldn’t sit back with a feeling that you should have tried. You have to believe in it and give it a shot. This applies to everything in life. - Physique and will are important factors, but the most important thing is being able to cooperate. This is a feature that is common to all special units. And you must be able to motivate yourself, so you can carry out a strenuous task. - Regardless of how long the road is, you start by putting one foot in front of the other. If you believe in this and keep going all the way, you will end up by reaching your goal. This applies, however far from your goal you are at the outset, ends Morten Hilmer.

The Sirius Sled Patrol This is a special unit in the Danish Defence under the Arctic Command. It has enforced Denmark’s sovereignty in the protected national park in Northeast Greenland since 1950. Headquarters at Station Daneborg on the east coast about 700km north of the Arctic Circle, summer station on Ella Island in Kong Oscars Fjord. The unit consists of 12 men who patrol the area with dog sleds in the winter and with boats in the summer when they also lay out winter supply depots. On average, there are 50 applicants each year and seven soldiers are admitted to pre-school for six months. Finally, six of these are selected for service with Sirius. The tour of duty lasts 26 months, only interrupted by a one week stay on Iceland. Source: Danish Defence

Nature photographer Morten Hilmer Born 1980 n Served on the Sirius Sled Patrol 2005-2007. n Already interested in photography before Sirius, took many pictures in Northeast Greenland. n Works today primarily as a photographer and speaker. Home page mortenhilmer.com

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Jens Brinck og Gerry Thick med flere følger spændt med ved legene i Kenai i Alaska 2006.

foto/Photo: John jakobsen

Jens Brinck, Gerry Thick and others follow the games in Kenai in Alaska in 2006 with interest.

Fakta om Arctic Winter Games Arctic Winter Games (AWG) er en sportskonkurrence for nordlige og arktiske lande, der hylder sport og kulturel udveksling. Legene er afholdt hvert andet år siden 1970. Arctic Winter Games Internationale Komite (AWGIC) består af 12 medlemmer, som vejleder og udsteder retningslinjer for legene samt behandler bud fra de lande, som ønsker værtskabet. De enkelte medlemmer udpeges af de lande, de repræsenterer. AWG afholdes i Nuuk 2016 (AWG 2016), hvor et værtssamfund er oprettet til formålet, bestående af den grønlandske regering, kommunen Sermersooq, virksomheder, medlemmer af AWGIC og et sekretariat. Der arbejdes målrettet med at arrangere AWG 2016 under daglig ledelse af General Manager Maliina Abelsen. Op til AWG 2016 forventes desuden ca. 1500 frivillige at hjælpe med afviklingen af arrangementet. Der forventes ca. 1850 deltagere plus pressefolk og VIP gæster. Der er 15 forskellige sportsgrene ved AWG 2016. Alpint skiløb, arktisk sport, badminton, basketball, skiskydning skiløb, skiskydning, sneskoløb, langrend, Dene games, hockey, indendørs fodbold, snowboard, bordtennis, volleyball, brydning og Ishockey.

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Jens Brinch var tidligere Generalsekretær i Grønlands Idræts Forbund i en lang årrække. Nu er han som formand for Arctic Winter Games Internationale Komite ansvarlig for Grønlands største sportsbegivenhed nogensinde. Tekst: John Jakobsen

Portræt af en sportslig ildsjæl Det største idrætsstævne nogensinde i Grønland afholdes i Nuuk fra den 6. til 11. marts 2016. Der er tale om Arctic Winter Games (AWG), hvor Grønland i 2002 stod som vært for første gang. Dengang var det dog et delt værtskab med Iqaluit i Nunavut. Denne gang har man accepteret at tage hele arrangementet og havde oprindeligt planlagt at opføre et is-stadion, hvor flere af de populæreste idrætsgrene i Arctic Winter Games afholdes. Det drejer sig om ishockey, speedskating, curling og kunstskøjteløb. Desværre er det ikke lykkedes at få opført et is-stadion, hvorfor ishockey er blevet henlagt til Iqaluit i Canada, ligesom i 2002. Aftalen er derfor, at ishockeyspillerne flyves til Nuuk for at deltage i åbningen af legene, hvorefter de flyves til Iqaluit. Samme seance gentager sig i forbindelse med afslutningen en uge senere. Formanden for den internationale komite i Arctic Winter Games hedder Jens Brinch. Han er tidligere mangeårig Generalsekretær i Grønlands Idræts Forbund og bor nu i Danmark. Sporten har altid stået højest - Det hele startede på Idrætshøjskolen i Sønderborg, hvor jeg var ansat som lærer, fortæller Jens Brinch. Derefter

blev det til syv år i DGI (Danske Gymnastik og Idrætsforening), hvor jeg var international direktør, blandt andet med idrætsudvikling i Østeuropa og Afrika. - Det var et utroligt spændende arbejde, som også indebar et ophold i Bruxelles, hvor jeg arbejdede for EU i et år. Lysten til nye og spændende opgaver gjorde, at jeg søgte en stilling i Grønland. Det var vigtigt, at min kone Laila også havde lyst til at rejse med. Hun arbejder med kunst, og for hende var det meget inspirerende at bo og arbejde i Grønland. - Arbejdet i Grønlands Idræts Forbund var spændende, især den del som handlede om at placere Grønland i det internationale idrætsbillede. Vigtigst var deltagelsen i Island Games og Arctic Winter Games. Jeg blev valgt ind i AWG’s internationale komite i 1998 og fik mulighed for indflydelse på planlægning og afvikling af legene. - Jeg har hele livet dyrket idræt fra elite- til motionsniveau. Blandt andet håndbold og volleyball på divisionsplan, og jeg er stadig på det lokale veteranhold i fodbold. Jeg har været træner i mange år, primært i volleyball, men også på divisionsplan i håndbold. - I 2007 forlod jeg Grønland, men arbejdede frem til 2009 stadig for forbundet. De to sidste år var arbejdet primært


Photo: Mads Pihl – Visit Greenland

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TELE-POST is the proud sponsor of AWG 2016

SPON OQ

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AWG 2016 i Nuuk - Der er en meget velfungerende organisation bag AWG 2016 i Nuuk. Der

er en stærk opbakning fra kommunen og regeringen, og gruppen af ansatte arbejder engageret og kompetent under daglig ledelse af Maliina Abelsen. - Der er en positiv holdning til AWG, hvilket er af afgørende betydning. Det er vigtigt, at samfundet står bag, så der kan skabes støtte fra erhvervslivet, og det kan lykkes at engagere alle de frivillige, som er forudsætningen for, at AWG kan blive en succes. Vi ser frem til, at deltagerne får en uforglemmelig oplevelse i Grønland. - I planlægningen har vi vendt alle de mulige problemer, vejret kan give. Oprindeligt var det planen, at legene skulle vare en dag længere, men for at sikre os de bedste handlemuligheder i tilfælde af dårligt vejr, måtte vi afkorte legene med en dag. - Tidsplanen holder, og med de dygtige folk i Grønland er jeg sikker på, det bliver et fantastisk AWG 2016, slutter Jens Brinch.

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tionale komite. Det bliver en forholdsvis kort periode, da jeg er gammel nok til at gå på pension, men jeg syntes stadig, at livet er spændende, og der er stadig interessante opgaver at tage fat på, siger Jens Brinch. - Relationen til Grønland og AWG har givet mig mulighed for at møde mennesker i en positiv atmosfære, og det har givet mange oplevelser og værdifulde venskaber. - For min kone Laila blev mødet med Grønland meget inspirerende, hvilket klart kan ses på figurer og malerier fra vores tid i Grønland. Ud over sine egne værker arbejdede hun på børnehjem i Nuuk, Uummannaq og Tasiilaq, hvor hun sammen med børn skabte billeder, som blev lavet ud fra børnenes fortællinger og tegninger.

· N AN

internationale opgaver. Samtidig var det meningen, at jeg skulle træde ud af AWG’s Internationale komite. Men jeg blev opfordret til at blive i komiten som repræsentant for »Guest Units«, hvilket primært var Sapmi og Yamal. - Det var så meningen, at jeg ville være det i en periode og så stoppe samtidig med vores daværende præsident, Gerry Thick, men i stedet fik jeg en opfordring om at blive præsident for organisationen. Det var ikke noget, jeg ønskede, men da jeg fik opbakning fra alle sider, valgte jeg at acceptere udfordringen. - I den internationale komite er Grønland repræsenteret ved Peter Frederik Lyberth og Mikael Kristensen, og de gør et godt stykke arbejde. I forbindelse med planlægningen af AWG 2016 har jeg stor gavn af, at jeg har mange gode relationer til landet. - Jeg ved ikke, hvor længe jeg er formand. Den beslutning tager jeg sammen med kollegerne i den interna-

G

In addition, we have issued this fine postage stamp in support of AWG 2016. See or buy it at www.stamps.gl

stamps.gl facebook.com/stamps.gl

POST Greenland Filatelia, P.O. Box 121, 3913 Tasiilaq, Greenland. Phone: +45 70 26 05 50, greenland today 24 2015 e-mail: stamps@telepost.gl

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150610_GT

Like us on www.facebook.com/stamps.gl


sport

One of the bigger fish caught by Jens Brinch in Greenland. En af de større fisk Jens Brinch har fanget i Grønland.

foto / Photo: privat / private

Portrait of a sports enthusiast Facts about Arctic Winter Games Arctic Winter Games (AWG) is a circumpolar sport competition for Northern and Arctic countries, celebrating sporting and cultural exchange. The games have been held since 1970. The Arctic Winter Games International Committee consists of 12 members who advise and provide guidelines for the games. They also evaluate the offers from countries that would like to host the games. Therefore, the individual members are selected by the countries they represent. AWG will be held in Nuuk in 2016 (AWG 2016). A hosting community has been established for the purpose, consisting of the government of Greenland, the municipality of Sermersooq, companies, members of the AWGIC and a secretariat. Work is focused on arranging AWG 2016 under the daily leadership of General Manager Maliina Abelsen, About 1,500 volunteers will assist with AWG 2016 and around 1,850 competitors are expected to take part, plus the press and VIP guests. There are 14 different sports events in AWG 2016. Alpine ski, Arctic sports, badminton, basketball, ski biathlon, snowshoeing, cross country skiing, Dene games, indoor football, snowboard, table tennis, volleyball, wrestling and ice hockey. 78

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Jens Brinch was general secretary for the Sports Confederation of Greenland for many years. Now, as president of the Arctic Winter Games International Committee he is responsible for the biggest sports event in Greenland in ever. Text: John Jakobsen

The biggest sporting event ever in Greenland will be held in Nuuk from 6th to 11th March 2016. This is the Arctic Winter Games (AWG), which Greenland hosted for the first time in 2002. At that time, the games were hosted jointly with Iqaluit in Nunavut. This time, Nuuk has agreed to host the entire event and had originally planned to build an ice stadium for several of the most popular sports in Arctic Winter Games; ice hockey, speed skating, curling and figure skating. Unfortunately, efforts to build an ice stadium have been unsuccessful, so the ice hockey tournament has been moved to Iqaluit in Canada, just as it was in 2002. Therefore, the ice hockey players will be flown to Nuuk to take part in the opening of the games and then flown to Iqaluit. This will be repeated at the conclusion of the games one week later. Jens Brinch is the president of the international committee for the Arctic Winter Games. He was the General Secretary for the Sports Confederation of Greenland for many years and he lives in Denmark now. Sport has always been paramount - It started at the Sports Boarding School in Sønderborg, where I had a job as a teacher, says Jens Brinch. After that, I was with DGI (Danish Gymnastics and Sports Association) for seven years as the international director working with, among other things, the development of sports in Eastern Europe and Africa.

- It was very interesting work which also involved living in Brussels, where I worked for the EU for a year. The desire to try new, exciting work led me to apply for a post in Greenland. It was important that my wife Laila wanted to come, too. She works with art and living in Greenland was very inspiring to her. - Working with the Sports Confederation of Greenland was interesting, especially the part that was about positioning Greenland in international sport. Taking part in Island Games and Arctic Winter Games was paramount. I was elected to AWG’s international committee in 1998 which gave me an opportunity to influence planning and executing the games. - I have played sports all my life, from elite to recreational level. I played division handball and volleyball and I still play on the veteran football team. I have been a coach for many years, primarily for volleyball, but also for division handball. - I left Greenland in 2007, although I continued to work for the confederation until 2009. During the last two years I worked mainly with international tasks. At the same time, the intention was that I should leave AWG’s International Committee. But I was asked to stay on the committee as a representative for »Guest Units«, which were primarily Sapmi and Yamal. - The intention was that I would do this for a while and then stop at the same time as Gerry Thick, who was our president at the time. Instead, I was asked to become president for the orga-


nization. It was not something I really wanted to do, but everyone supported me, so I chose to accept the challenge. - Greenland is represented on the international committee by Peter Frederik Lyberth and Mikael Kristensen and they do a good job. I reap huge benefits from my many good connections to countries abroad when I am planning AWG 2016. - I don’t know how long I will be president. I will make a decision together with my colleagues on the international committee. It will be a relatively short period, because I am nearing retirement age, but I still think life is exciting and there are still interesting tasks to undertake, says Jens Brinch. -The connection to Greenland and the AWG has given me an opportunity to meet people in a positive atmosphere. I have experienced a lot and I have found valuable friendships. - For my wife Laila, the meeting with Greenland was very inspiring, which is clear to see from the figurines and paintings from our time in Greenland. In addition to her own work, she worked with children at the children’s homes in

Jens’s wife Laila with a painting she helped the children from the children’s home at Sana to paint in Nuuk in 2004.

Jens’ kone Laila med et maleri, hun hjalp børnene med at male til børnehjemmet ved Sana i Nuuk i 2004.

Nuuk, Uummannaq and Tasiilaq, where she worked together with the children to create pictures based on their own stories and drawings.

rate sector and succeed in involving all the volunteers, all of which is necessary for the success of AWG. We look forward to giving participants an unforgettable experience in Greenland. - We have taken all possible weather problems into consideration in our plans. Originally, the plans were for the games to last one day longer, but to ensure the best chance of finding a solution in the case of bad weather, we had to shorten the games with one day. - We are on schedule and with the skilled people in Greenland, I am sure that AWG 2016 will be fantastic, ends Jens Brinch.

AWG 2016 in Nuuk - The organization behind AWG 2016 in Nuuk is very efficient. There is strong support from the municipality and the government and the group of employees work enthusiastically and competently under the leadership of Maliina Abelsen. - There is a positive attitude towards AWG which is vital. It is important to have the support of the community so we can attract backing from the corpo-

We would like to welcome you to our grand capital of Greenland. For your convinience we have gathered a vast variety of activities to suit your needs, all encompassed by the beautiful arctic setting that surrounds us. To see what opportunities that awaits you, you can download some of our free catalogues or apps. Dive into the ocean with the Humpbackwhales!

Download your free map of either Paamiut or Nuuk Google Play Explorer Explorer Paamiut Nuuk

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Visiting Nuuk? Explorer your options!

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oplevelser / adventure

Med havkajak i Diskobugten Forfatteren til denne artikel boede i Grønland som ung. Nu er han vendt tilbage for at gense landet og nyde naturen set fra en havkajak. Her fortæller han med egne ord om at vokse op i Af Jesper Krage, Redigeret af greenland today Grønland og oplevelsen ved at sejle. Jeg er vokset op i Grønland. Jeg kom som seks-årig i sommeren 1971 med mine forældre og min lillesøster. Min far var vodbinder og havde fået arbejde hos en virksomhed, som var med i det første store fiskerieventyr i Grønland. Vi boede først i Rodebay (Oqaatsut), en lille bygd lige nord for Ilulissat, der dengang havde ca. 100 indbyggere. Vi boede i et lille hus på 30 m2 uden strøm og vand. Varmen kom fra en kakkelovn, og vand fik vi ved at smelte is. Far havde et lille værksted, hvor han reparerede rejetrawl, og så sejlede han med et lille fabriksskib, hvor han sad og reparerede fiskernes trawl på dækket. Vi boede i Rodebay hele sommeren. I en efterårsstorm sejlede vi med fabriksskibet ned til bygden Napasoq syd for Maniitsoq. Her boede vi i 3 1/2 år, inden vi flyttede til Ilulissat, hvor jeg havde de 80

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fleste af mine skoleår. En fantastisk tid, hvor jeg tilbragte stort set alle weekender ude i naturen. Om sommeren i båd, om vinteren på hundeslæde. Naturen, jagt og fiskeri var mit et og alt. Da jeg var ved at være færdig med 10. klasse, fik jeg at vide, at min far havde fået arbejde på Nordsøcenteret i Hirtshals. Jeg var ikke klar til at flytte til Danmark, så jeg arbejdede ved et tømrerfirma, kørte med min hundeslæde, sejlede og gik på jagt. Efter et år fik jeg hyre på en grønlandsk rejetrawler. Jeg fiskede rejer i Vestgrønland i 2 1/2 år og valgte så at tage til Danmark for at tage en tømreruddannelse. Da jeg blev færdig med min uddannelse, tog jeg kæresten med til Nuuk, hvor jeg arbejdede som tømrer et år. Nu var det kærestens tur til at ville til Danmark og uddanne sig. Det var vemodigt at sige

farvel til Grønland, og jeg lovede mig selv at komme tilbage en dag. Tilbage i kajak Jeg har aldrig helt kunne slippe Grønland. Jeg vil påstå, at jeg næsten dagligt har tænkt på Grønland og haft en drøm om at tage derop på en længere ferie. Jeg drømte om at købe en motorbåd og så sejle fra Sydvestgrønland til Nordvestgrønland. Bruge en hel sommer, og have god tid til at udforske kysten, fiske og gå på jagt. Da jeg har roet kajak i nogle år, blev turen lavet om til en kajakekspedition. Det var ikke realistisk for mig at ro fra syd til nord. Planen blev derfor et fem ugers kajakeventyr i Diskobugten. Diskobugten er et kajakmekka. Masser af isbjerge, fantastisk smuk natur, og et meget stabilt vejr om sommeren.


Vi var fire, der ville afsted. Vi mødtes nogle gange og planlagde turen mere detaljeret. Det var også vigtigt at få afstemt vores forventninger til turen, og vi var enige om, at oplevelserne og eventyret skulle være i fokus. Fantastiske fjorde Vi fløj til Qasigiannguit og tog derfra sydover til det lukkede Tasiusaq fjordsystem. Det var fantastisk at se den blanke Tasiusaq fjord, selvom vi skulle bære vores grej over land for at komme derind. Her havde vi nogle dejlige dage, inden vi igen bar vores ting ud til kysten. Vi roede til bygden Ilimanaq, hvor vi fik vasket vores tøj og fik et tiltrængt bad i bygdens servicehus. Herfra blev vi sejlet til Ilulissat med skibet »Søkongen«, da det frarådes at sejle forbi isfjordens munding i kajak. Fra Ilulissat roede vi selv nordover. På den første etape kom vi forbi Rodebay, den bygd hvor jeg boede med min familie, da jeg første gang kom til Grønland. Senere da jeg boede i Ilulissat, kørte jeg ofte herud om vinteren med mine hunde og gik på rypejagt på fjeldet bag bygden.

Vi roede forbi Rodebay og ind i fjorden Kangersuneq. Her var to hytter, vi kunne låne, og en god gåtur ind til et betagede vandfald. Næste destination var Pakitsoq-fjorden. Den er speciel, da den store fjord munder ud i et meget smalt sund. Det giver en meget kraftig strøm. Så kraftig, at det ikke fryser om vinteren. Derfor var det vigtigt at være påpasselig som kajakroer. I bunden af fjorden er der et vandkraftværk, der forsyner Ilulissat med el. Vi fandt en dejlig lejrplads og valgte at tage en overliggerdag. Vi havde fundet en gammel sammenfiltret langline, som vi brugte lang tid på at rede ud. Vi beholdt 15 kroge på den, og langlinen blev sat. Da vi dagen efter skulle videre nord på, skulle langlinen trækkes op. Vi skulle være to til at trække, og det var noget besværligt i en kajak. Der var næsten fisk på alle kroge. Havkat, hellefisk og uvak (fjordtorsk). Så der var fisk nok til nogle dage. Et dejligt supplement til tørkosten.

Eqi gletsjeren Vi blev her et par dage, hvor vi vandrede og besøgte Camp Eqi. Gletsjeren er et betagende syn. I Tasiusaq fjorden havde vi også været helt tæt på en gletsjer, men Eqi brager og kælver så ofte, at der hele tiden er dønninger. Vi slog lejr inde i bunden af bugten tæt på Camp Eqi. Vi måtte bære kajakker og grej et stykke op fra kysten på grund af tsunamifare. Det tog vi ret seriøst, da vi på vegetationen kunne se, hvor langt vandet kunne skylle op. Camp Eqi ligger lige over for gletsjeren med hytter i forskellig standard til turister. Her gik vi en flot tur ind til gletsjeren og badede i smeltevandselven. Der var en café, hvor de lavede forrygende mad, og vi var nok også lidt lette at imponere efter den ensformige tørkost. Den nedlagte bygd Rittenbenk Da vi roede fra Eqi, kom vi til at ro i meget is fra den kælvende gletsjer. Vi roede ud til en ø med den fineste strand og lejrplads. Langs kysten finder man mange gamle sommerbopladser 24 2015

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FAKTA OG SIKKERHEDSRÅD n Sørg for, at nogen kender ruten på forhånd og hold dem opdateret. n Planlæg turen grundigt. n Du skal kunne klare dig selv. n Ingen mobildækning udenfor byer og bygder. n Altid langt til nærmeste bebyggelse. n Arktisk Kommando står for redning til søs, politiet står for den kystnære redning. n Vandet er altid ca. to grader. I forhold til påklædning skal man regne med, at bølgesprøjt giver ekstra afkøling. Tørdragt er nødvendig. n Vejret kan ændre sig fra vindstille til storm på en halv time. n Vind kombineret med lave temperatur kan give en kulde faktor, der føles frysende selv på en sommerdag, også selvom man har søgt læ på land. Medbring ekstra varmt tøj. n Afstande snyder i Grønland, fordi man kan se »uendelig langt«. Er du I tvivl, om I kan nå over et sted, så vent. n Tag aldrig chancer. n Hav altid et godt lokalt kort i vandtæt flydepakning. n Medbring altid satellittelefon og ekstra batterier til den. FORFATTERENS TIP TIL TUREN n Diskobugten er et kajakmekka og kan varmt anbefales. Om sommeren er der stabilt vejr uden så meget nedbør og vind. n Slår lejr et tørt sted. n På DMI’s hjemmeside kan man se vejr for området. n Det er altid til at finde vand. Enten i de mange elve eller ved at smelte is. n Det er selvfølgelig vigtigt, at man er en erfaren kajakroer, og at man har det rigtige udstyr med. n Det er en god ide at få sin egen kajak sendt op, som man kender og er tryg ved. Som skibsfragt kan man fylde kajakken med alt sit udstyr, så man ikke skal have det med i flyveren. n VHF-radioer til kommunikation mellem deltagerne giver ekstra sikkerhed. 82 82

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som denne. Her havde der været flere tørvehytter og i vandkanten var gamle køkkenmøddinger. Vi tænkte på, hvordan man for mange år siden levede her, og hvordan de med deres kajakker var løbet op på den samme strand som os. Et meget smukt sted. Rittenbenk var et dejligt gensyn, men synd de gamle kolonibygninger forfalder. Vi roede videre ind i bunden af Laksebugten, hvor der var en rigtig fin lejrplads. Vi stillede os ved elven mellem to søer og fiskede. Et sted hvor jeg har fanget mange ørreder som barn. På mindre end 10 minutter havde vi fanget fire flotte fisk. Da vi jo ikke skulle fiske mere, end vi kunne spise, fiskede vi videre men satte fiskene ud igen. Dagen efter lyngrøg vi ørrederne. De smagte fantastisk. Hvaler og fuglebørnehaver Nord for Rittenbenk er der et meget stort fuglefjeld. Det var fascinerende at ro forbi det kæmpe lodrette fjeld med tusindvis af fugle både på fjeldsiden og i luften. Vi så også mange edderfuglebørnehaver. Et sjovt fænomen, hvor de voksne edderfugle skiftes til at passe på ungerne, mens de andre er »på arbejde« ligesom os. Kommer man for tæt på, afleder de opmærksomheden fra ungerne ved at svømme væk og lade som om, de er sårede.

Da vi roede ned langs østsiden af Arveprinsens Ejland, hørte vi blåsten fra en hval. Vi sejlerde tættere på og kunne se, at det var to voksne pukkelhvaler og en unge. Da de havde dykket et stykke tid, dukkede den ene hval op lige foran kajakkerne, svømmede lige under og kom op igen få meter bagved. Det er vildt imponerende at være tæt på sådan en kæmpe i en kajak. Når hvalen kommer op, kan man høre, hvordan dens lunger skifter enorme mængder luft ud på meget kort tid. Selvom jeg har set hvaler mange gange før, var det et af turens højdepunkter. En smuk afslutning Da vi et par dage senere var nået til Rodebay, bestilte vi bord på restaurant H8. det gamle pakhus er lavet om til restaurant. Dagens menu: pukkelhval, brun sovs og kartofler. Vi sad om aftenen og nød et glas vin på det røde palæs terrasse, mens vi kikkede ud på det blanke vand. En flok hvaler kom forbi og fuldendte det smukke senerie. Det var den sidste aften, inden vi skulle tilbage til Ilulissat. Min kone og børn var på vej for at holde ferie sammen med mig. Dagen efter afleverede vi vores kajakker og grej ved Blue Water Shipping, så de kan nå en fragtbåd et par dage senere. Jeg fik travlt med at tage imod min familie, som jeg havde glædet mig


til at vise naturen og Ilulissat, som jeg betragter som min barndomsby. Det var 17 fantastiske dage, og vi nød godt af gamle venners store gæstfrihed. Alt i alt var det en ufor-

Deltagere Frank Panitz, Lasse Jensen, Stig Josefsen, Jesper Krage

glemmelig sommer. Sammen med en ven er jeg ved at planlægge en tur mere i sommeren 2016. Jeg bliver simpelthen nødt til at opleve det igen.

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The Bank for All of Greenland has helped many families renovate their homes and make the switch to an eco-friendly car. Pay us a visit at The Bank of Greenland, and find out how you too can save money.

Hele Grønlands BANK har hjulpet mange familier med at få renoveret deres boliger og skiftet til en miljøvenlig bil. Kom ind i GrønlandsBANKEN og hør, hvordan du også kan spare penge.

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oplevelser / adventure

Sea kayaking in Disko Bay The author of this article lived in Greenland in his youth. Now, he has returned to see the country again and to enjoy nature from a sea kayak. Here, in his own words, he talks about By Jesper Krage, Edited by greenland today growing up in Greenland and about sailing.

I grew up in Greenland. In the summer of 1971, when I was six years old, I went there with my parents and my little sister. My father was a net mender and he had found employment with a firm that was part of the first big fish bonanza in Greenland. At first, we lived in Rodebay (Oqaatsut), a small settlement north of Ilulissat which in those days had about 100 inhabitants. We lived in a small, 30m2 house with no electricity or running water. The heat came from a stove and we got water by melting ice. My father had a small workshop where he repaired shrimp trawls and he sailed with a small factory ship where he sat on deck and repaired the fishermen’s trawls. We lived in Rodebay all summer. In an autumn storm we sailed with the factory ship to the village of Napasoq south of Maniitsoq. We lived here for 84

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three and a half years before we moved to Ilulissat, where we lived through most of my school years. It was a fantastic time, where I spent just about all my weekends out in nature; in the summer in boats, in the winter on dog sleds. Nature, hunting and fishing were everything to me. When I finished tenth grade, I was told my father had got a job at the North Sea Centre in Hirtshals. I wasn’t ready to move to Denmark, so I got a job with a lumber company, drove my dog sled, sailed and went hunting. After a year, I took a job on a Greenlandic prawn boat. I fished for prawns in West Greenland for two and half years until I decided to move back to Denmark to train as a carpenter. When I finished training I took my girlfriend to Nuuk where I worked as a carpenter for a year. Then it was my girlfriend’s

turn to go to Denmark to train. It was sad saying goodbye to Greenland and I promised myself that I would return some day. Back in a kayak I could never completely let go of Greenland. I would maintain that I thought of Greenland almost every day and I have dreamed of taking a long holiday up there for a long time. I dreamed of buying a motor boat and sailing from Southwest Greenland to Northwest Greenland. Of using an entire summer with plenty of time to explore the coast, to fish and to hunt. Since I have kayaked for several years, the trip turned into a kayak expedition. Since it was not realistic for me to paddle from the south to the north, the plan changed to a five-week kayak adventure in Disko Bay. Disko Bay is a kayaking Mecca. Plenty


Participants Frank Panitz, Lasse Jensen, Stig Josefsen, Jesper Krage

of icebergs, incredibly beautiful nature and very stable weather conditions. Four of us were going and we met a few times to plan the trip in detail. It was also important to harmonize our expectations for the trip and we agreed that the focus should be on experiences and adventure. Fantastic fjords We flew to Qasigiannguit and travelled south to the closed Tasiusaq fjord system. It was wonderful to see the shining waters of Tasiusaq Fjord, even though it had been necessary for us to carry our gear over land to get there. We spent some glorious days there before carrying our gear out to the coast. We paddled to the settlement of Ilimanaq, where we washed our clothes and took a much needed bath in the settlement’s service house. From here,

we travelled by boat to Ilulissat with the »Søkongen«, because it is inadvisable to cross the mouth of the ice fjord in a kayak. From Ilulissat, we paddled northwards. On the first stage, we passed Rodebay, the settlement where I lived with my family when I was in Greenland the first time. Later, when I lived in Ilulissat, I often drove out there in the winter with my dogs to go grouse hunting in the fells. We paddled past Rodebay and into the Kangersuneq Fjord, where there were cabins we could borrow and, a good walk in, there was an impressive waterfall. The next destination was Pakitsoq Fjord. It is special because the big fjord opens out into a very narrow sound, resulting in an extremely powerful current. So powerful, that it doesn’t freeze in the winter. Therefore, it is very impor-

tant for kayakers to be careful. At the head of the fjord there is a hydroelectric plant that provides Ilulissat with power. We found a fine place to set up camp and we decided to take a rest day. We had found an old, tangled long line which we spent a lot of time unravelling. We left 15 hooks on the line and set it out. The next day, before we continued northwards, we pulled up the long line. It took two of us to pull and it was rather difficult to do from a kayak. Nearly all the hooks had fish. Atlantic wolffish, Greenland halibut and Greenland cod (ogac), so we had enough fish for several days. They were a welcome supplement to dehydrated food. The Eqi glacier We spent a few days here hiking and we visited Camp Eqi. The glacier is an 24 2015

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FACTS AND TIPS FOR SAFETY n Make sure someone knows your route and keep them up to date. n Plan your tour carefully. n You must be able to manage on your own. n There is no mobile coverage away from towns and settlements. n It is always a long way to the nearest house. n The Arctic Command undertakes rescues at sea, the police take coastal rescues. n The water is always about two degrees. With regard to clothing, you must consider getting splashed means further cooling. A drysuit is necessary. n The weather can change from calm to storm in a half an hour. n Wind in combination with low temperature can make for a chill factor that feels freezing, even on a warm summer’s day and even though you have sought shelter on land. Bring extra, warm clothing. n Distances in Greenland are deceptive because you can see »infinitely far«. If you are in doubt as to whether you can reach a place, wait! n Never take a chance. n Always have local maps in watertight packs that float. n Always bring a satellite telephone with extra batteries. THE AUTHOR’S TIPS FOR THE TRIP n Disko Bay is a Mecca for kayaking and I warmly recommend it. The weather is stable in the summer and there is not so much precipitation or wind. n When you make camp, it’s better to find a dry place. n On DMI’s (Danish Meteorological Institute) home page you can see the local weather. n Water can always be found. Either in one of the many rivers or by melting ice. n It is, of course, important that you are an experienced kayaker and that you bring the proper equipment. n It is a good idea to have your own kayak sent up. You are familiar and feel comfortable with this. With sea freight you can fill the kayak with all your equipment, so you don’t need to take it in the aircraft. n VHF radios for communication between the participants provide greenland today 24 2015 86 extra security.

enthralling sight. We had also been close to a glacier in Tasiusaq Fjord, but Eqi thunders and calves so often that there is always a swell. We set up camp at the head of the bay close to Camp Eqi. We had to carry the kayaks and our gear up from the coast because of the tsunami risk. We took this very seriously because the vegetation showed how far the water could wash up on the shore. Camp Eqi lies across from the glacier with tourist cabins in different standards. We went for a beautiful walk to the glacier and bathed in the melt water river. There was a café where they made amazing food, although we were probably easy to impress after all the monotonous dehydrated food.

The abandoned settlement of Rittenbenk When we paddled from Eqi, we paddled through a lot of ice from the calving glacier. We paddled out to an island with the finest beach and campsite. Along the coast there are many summer campsites like this. There had been several turf huts here and, at the water’s edge, there were old kitchen middens. We thought about what it might have been like to live here many years ago and how they had taken their kayaks and run up the same beach as we had. It was a very beautiful place. It was wonderful to see Rittenbenk again, but it was sad to see the old colonial buildings falling into disrepair. We paddled further in to the head of Laksebugten where there was a really good campsite. We stood and fished by the river between two lakes. It was


a place where I had caught many Arctic charr as a child. In less than 10 minutes we caught four nice fish. Since we wouldn’t take more than we could eat, we kept fishing but we released the fish again. The next day, we fast-smoked the Arctic charr. They tasted wonderful. Whales and bird nurseries North of Rittenbenk there is a very large bird colony. It was fascinating to paddle past the vertical cliffs with thousands of birds on the rocks and in the air. We also saw many eider duck nurseries. It is a strange phenomenon, where the adult eider ducks take it in turn to look after the young, while the others »go to work«, just like we do. If you get too close, they draw attention away from the young by swimming off and feigning injury. When we paddled along the east side

of Arveprinsens Ejland, we heard a whale blow. We sailed closer and we could see that there were two adult humpback whales and a juvenile. They dived and after a while one of the whales surfaced just in front of the kayaks, swam under us and came up again a few metres behind us. It was very exciting to be in a kayak so close to such a giant. When the whale came up we could hear how its lungs exchanged a great volume of air in a very short time. Although I have seen whales many times before, this was one of the highlights of the trip. A beautiful conclusion A couple of days later, when we reached Rodebay we reserved a table at Restaurant H8, which is an old pack house that has been converted into a restaurant. The dish of the day: humpback whale with brown gravy and potatoes.

We sat and enjoyed a class of wine in the evening on the terrace of the Røde Palæ (Red Palace) while we looked out on the shining water. A passing group of whales perfected the scene. It was the last evening before we returned to Ilulissat. My wife and children were on the way up to spend a holiday with me. The next day we dropped off our kayaks and gear at Blue Water Shipping for shipping with a freighter a few days later. I busied myself with my family and I looked forward to showing them nature and Ilulissat, which I consider to be my childhood home. It was a wonderful 17 days and we enjoyed the hospitality of old friends. All in all it was a wonderful and unforgettable summer. A friend and I are planning another tour in the summer of 2016. I must experience all this again. 24 2015

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unge / youth

En usædvanlig studietur En skoleklasse fra Nuuk har været helt i Malaysia, hvor klimaforandringerne var et varmt tema. Tekst: Toke Brødsgaard og greenland today Fotos: privat.

En studietur er for mange et af højdepunkterne i skoletiden. For de fleste skoleklasser i Grønland går turen til København eller Island. En studietur er en fantastisk måde at opleve andre kulturer. For »klasse 9A« på Atuarfik Hans Lynge-skolen i Nuuk blev det en noget længere rejse til Malaysia, som de målrettet har arbejdet henimod de sidste tre år. De har søgt fonde og lavet arrangementer, der kunne give penge til turen. Samtidig har de brugt meget tid på at sætte sig ind i, hvad det var, der ventede dem, bl.a. via kontakt til børn i Malaysia. Med klasselærer Melissa Hansen som projektleder og en stor forældreopbakning lykkedes det at få samlet den halve million kroner, turen kostede.

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Den lange rejse Københavns Zoologiske Have var første stop på rejsen, da de var en af klassens større sponsorer. Her brugte de to dage, og eleverne fik endnu mere viden om, hvad der ventede dem. For mange af eleverne var studieturen den første rejse, der førte længere væk end Danmark, og for en enkelt af eleverne var det den første rejse udenfor Grønland. Eleverne kom fra Grønland midt i maj med temperaturer omkring minus 10-15 grader. Derfor var det noget af en omvæltning for dem, da de endelig kom til Malaysia. De havde svært ved at koncentrere sig og var ved at gå til af varme, indtil de blev akklimatiserede.

Desuden var der mange insekter. Det var derfor noget af en overvindelse, da eleverne skulle lære, at insekter er en naturlig del af et besøg i Malaysia. En anden kultur For eleverne var mødet med Malaysia både fascinerende, skræmmende og smukt. Det gjorde bl.a. stort indtryk at besøge hindu-templet Batu Caves i udkanten af hovedstaden Kuala Lumpur. For at komme til templet skulle eleverne bestige en meget høj trappe med 272 trin. Templet har en kæmpe Buddha-statue malet med guld og en fantastisk udsigt over byen, så det var hele anstrengelsen værd. Eleverne fik lært og prøvet en masse. Blandt andet at køre på scooter, sejle på floderne, se mangroveskovens økosystem og prøve at plante træer. De besøgte en rismark, hvor de så produktionen fra start til slut og blev imponerede over, at ris stadig bliver pakket med håndkraft. Et af besøgene var hos Københavns Zoologiske Haves tapirprogram og et tigerfængsel for tigere, der har dræbt mennesker. Det var en stor oplevelse med de godmodige tapirer og fascinerende store tigere. I en lille landsby havde man som mål, at byen skulle være 100% selvforsynende med alt. Her oplevede eleverne, hvor lidt der skal til, for at man i et klima som Malaysia kan klare sig. Her blev de også sat i arbejde med at mure en brændeovn af ler.


Læs mere om nogle af de største aktører, der gjorde turen mulig her: n YAWA yawa.org.my n Turtle Conservation Society turtleconservationsociety.org.my n CPH ZOO malaytapir.org zoo.dk Desuden har Nunafonden givet en god støtte, og Christian Schriver fra NEPCon.net i Malaysia har været en uvurderlig hjælp.

Den imponerende regnskov For mange var det en kæmpe oplevelse, da de kom til regnskoven, når man tænker på, at de kommer fra Nuuk, hvor man næppe finder et træ over en meter højt. I regnskoven blev både planter og dyreliv derfor studeret nøje, og her boede eleverne på Institute of Biodiversity Department of Wildlife and National Parks. Her fik de også indblik i stedets forskning i klima og regnskovens økosystemer. Blandt andet fik de til opgave at montere kamerafælder i regnskoven, hvor det lykkedes at tage fotos af vildsvin. Invasionen fra havet Efter besøget i regnskoven kom de til skildpaddecenteret Turtle Conservation Society of Malaysia. Allerede hjemme fra Grønland havde eleverne skrevet sammen med en klasse, de skulle møde her på centeret. De havde via internettet arbejdet med nogle fælles opgaver sammen. Centeret arbejder på at bevare skildpadderne i Malaysia, blandt andet ved at indsamle og udruge de æg, havskildpadderne lægger på de lange sandstrande, hvor de er udsat for skadedyr og mennesker. Efter mørkets frembrud var eleverne med på stranden og så de store havskildpadder komme op og lægge deres æg, som de indsamlede til centeret, hvor de uforstyrret kunne udklækkes. I centeret blev eleverne sat i arbejde med at måle, veje og beskrive de flodskildpadder, der midlertidigt var på centeret. De bar nogle af de udklækkede skildpadder ned på stranden, så de kunne finde vej til havet.

Udbytterig tur Der blev trænet meget engelsk sprog, godt støttet af fagter og armbevægelser. Drengene fik også nogle gode foldboldkampe, der altid er en god aktivitet på tværs af kulturer. I byen Putrajaya mødtes de med endnu en skoleklasse. Her debatterede de klimaforandringer og fik en forståelse for, at påvirkninger i det arktiske miljø kan have en effekt på miljøet i så fjerntliggende egne som eksempelvis Malaysia og omvendt. Mødet fik også afkræftet nogle fordomme, som at man i Grønland stadig bor i igloer og holder isbjørne som kæledyr. Omvendt fik de grønlandske elever også lært nyt om den kultur og religion, de mødte i Malaysia, hvor størstedelen af befolkningen er muslimer, f.eks. den manglende bacon, da grisen

i Malaysia er et helligt dyr, og der derfor er forbud mod at spise den. Studierejsen blev dermed også en dannelsesrejse, der har modnet eleverne. De har opnået en forståelse for den kultur, de har besøgt, og har nedbrudt en lang række fordomme. Klassen optog i samarbejde med Københavns Zoologiske Have en dokumentarfilm om, hvad de har oplevet. Denne film vil, når den er færdigredigeret, blive vist på KNR, der er Grønlands officielle tv-kanal. Mange af eleverne fra Grønland og Malaysia har stadig kontakt via de sociale medier. De deler billeder og skriver sammen, og det giver eleverne nogle sproglige udfordringer. Ingen tvivl om, at eleverne har fået en oplevelse for livet på deres studierejse. 24 2015

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An Unusual study trip A school class from Nuuk has visited Malaysia where climate change was a hot topic. Text: Toke Brødsgaard & greenland today. Photos: private

A study trip is one of the highlights for many pupils during their school years. For most classes in Greenland, study trips go to Copenhagen or Iceland. A study trip is a wonderful way to experience other cultures. The pupils from Class 9A from Atuafik Hans Lynge School in Nuuk worked hard for three years so they could take a longer trip to Malaysia. They applied to foundations and organized events

to make money for the trip. They also spent a lot of time learning about what they could expect through, for instance, contact to children in Malaysia. With form teacher Melissa Hansen as project leader and massive support from parents, they succeeded in collecting the half million DKK needed for the trip. The long journey Copenhagen Zoo was the first stop on

the way, as it was one of the class’s major sponsors. The pupils spent two days here and they acquired even more knowledge about what they could expect. For many of the pupils, the study trip was the first journey to take them further away than Denmark and for one of the pupils it was the first trip outside Greenland. The students left Greenland in the middle of May where temperatures were about minus 10-15 degrees. Therefore, they experienced a radical change when they finally arrived in Malaysia. It was difficult for them to concentrate and they suffered with the heat until they became acclimatized. There were many insects. The pupils had to overcome their reluctance and learn that insects are a natural part of a visit to Malaysia. Another culture For the pupils, the meeting with Malaysia was at the same time fascinating, frightening and beautiful. A visit to the Hindu temple at the Batu Caves on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, the capital, made a great impression.

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Read more about the supporters that made the trip possible: n YAWA yawa.org.my n Turtle Conservation Society turtleconservationsociety.org.my n CPH ZOO malaytapir.org zoo.dk In addition, the Nuna Foundation provided valuable support and Christian Schriver from NEPCon.net in Malaysia was of invaluable assistance.

In order to get to the temple the pupils had to climb up some very high stairs with 272 steps. The temple had a gigantic statue of Lord Murugan painted with gold and a breathtaking view of the town, so it was well worth the effort. The pupils learned a lot and tried many things, among them riding scooters, sailing on the rivers, seeing the mangrove forests’ ecosystem and tree-planting. They visited a rice paddy where they witnessed the entire production process from start to finish and were impressed to see that the rice is still packed by hand. One of the visits was to Copenhagen Zoo’s tapir program and a tiger prison for man-eating tigers. It was a huge experience with good-natured tapirs and fascinating big tigers. There was a village that had the goal of being 100 % self-sufficient with everything. Here, the pupils discovered how little you need to get by in a climate like Malaysia’s. They were also put to work, building a clay oven. The impressive rainforest For many of them, visiting the rainforest was a huge experience; they come from Nuuk, where there is hardly a tree over a metre high. Therefore, the plants and animals of the rainforest were studied carefully. The pupils stayed at the Institute of Biodiversity, Department of Wildlife and National Parks. Here, there also

gained an insight into the research the institute carries out into the climate and the rainforest ecosystems. They were tasked with setting up camera traps in the rainforest and these succeeded in photographing wild pigs. Invasion from the sea After visiting the rainforest they went to the centre of the Turtle Conservation Society of Malaysia. While they were still in Greenland, the pupils had corresponded with the class they were to meet at the centre. The classes had worked on tasks together on the internet. The centre works with turtle conservation in Malaysia, by collecting and hatching the eggs the turtles lay on the long sandy beaches, where they are at risk from predators and people. After nightfall, the pupils were taken to the beach to watch the big sea turtles crawl up and lay their eggs. The eggs were collected and taken to the centre where they could hatch undisturbed. At the centre, the pupils were put to work measuring, weighing and describing some river turtles that were temporarily at the centre. They carried some of the hatched turtles down to the beach, so they could find their way to the sea. Fruitful trip There was plenty of opportunity to practice English, aided by gestures and hand signs. The boys also got in some

good football matches – always a fine, cross-cultural activity. In Putrajaya they met yet another school class. Here, they discussed climate changes and learned that the impact on the Arctic environment can have an effect on the environment in such distant places as Malaysia and vice versa. The meeting also cleared up some misconceptions like – Greenlanders still live in igloos and keep polar bears as pets. In return, the pupils from Greenland learned more about the culture and the religion they met in Malaysia, where most of the population are Muslim. There was, for example, a lack of bacon because pork is not eaten for religious reasons. Therefore, the study trip was also an educational journey that helped to mature the pupils. They have achieved an understanding of the culture they visited and have broken down many prejudicial barriers. The class made a documentary film about their experiences in collaboration with Copenhagen Zoo. After it has been edited, the film will be shown on KNR, Greenland’s national broadcasting channel. Many of the pupils from Greenland and Malaysia still maintain contact through the social media. They share pictures and write to each other, which presents the children with some linguistic challenges. There is no doubt that the study trip gave the pupils an experience for life. 24 2015

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unge / youth

Skolebesøg på

M/S Fram Hver sommer siden 2007 har krydstogtskibet M/S Fram sejlet turister rundt i Grønland. I juni lagde skibet til i Qaqortoq, og her fik besætningen besøg af en gruppe unge, som var på et helt særligt »virksomhedsbesøg« Victoria Egede

Tekst: greenland today, Foto: Malou Media

Foreningen Grønlandske Børns projekt »Sapiik Atuartut« skal ruste 10. klasses elever til at træffe beslutning om deres fremtid i uddannelse og job. Projektet har eksisteret i syv år og er et tilbud til alle 10. klasses elever på fem skoler i Nuuk, Ilulissat og Qaqortoq. Målet er at give de unge øget selvtillid og mod på fremtiden samt at motivere dem gennem skoleåret til at tage en beslutning om deres fremtid. - Selvtillid og mod på fremtiden er et vigtigt udgangspunkt for at tage stilling til de mange fremtidstilbud, der findes, forklarer Projektleder Gunver Christy Justesen fra Foreningen Grønlandske Børn. - For at skabe overblik arrangerer vores medarbejdere virksomhedsbesøg blandt en række virksomheder. Det giver de unge indblik i de konkrete jobmuligheder. Vi har bl.a. besøgt Grøn-

landsbanken, Air Greenland, politi- og brandstationer med flere. Det betyder rigtig meget for projektet, og vi sætter stor pris på samarbejdet, siger Gunver Christy Justesen. Unikt indblik I år ønskede Foreningen Grønlandske Børn at prøve noget nyt og vise de unge en del af turistbranchen. - Personalet på M/S Fram har i adskillige år afholdt auktioner til fordel for Foreningen Grønlandske Børns projekter. Derfor tøvede de heller ikke med at byde os velkommen i alle tre projektbyer, da vi tog kontakt til dem, siger Gunver Christy Justesen. - Det er en unik mulighed for de unge i både Nuuk, Ilulissat og Qaqortoq til at få et indblik i arbejdslivet om bord på et af de krydstogtskibe, der sommeren igennem lægger vejen forbi deres byer.

- Ikke mindst fik de unge store øjne, da de så fitnessrummet og de to udendørs jacuzzier, samt da andenstyrmanden viste dem oversigten over de mange gange, M/S Fram har mødt isbjørne på sejlturene i Grønland. Bedste virksomhedsbesøg Nogle af dem, der var med om bord på M/S Fram, var Victoria Egede, Laura Ingemann og Angutivik Jessen, der alle er 16 år og afsluttede 10. klasse i juni. - Det var det bedste virksomhedsbesøg i år, siger Laura, der vil være tandlæge. Alle tre har besluttet sig for, hvad de skal efter folkeskolen, og mente, at besøget på M/S Fram var utroligt spændende. Især Angutivik var begejstret. Han vil nemlig på Søfartskolen, når han bliver gammel nok, og senere arbejde på en trawler.

Foreningen Grønlandske Børn har flere Sapiik-indsatser n Sapiik Atuartut skal ruste 10. klasses elever til at træffe beslutninger om deres fremtid i uddannelse og job. n Sapiitsumik Siunisaaq er for de unge, der afslutter 10. klasse, men endnu ikke har besluttet sig til, hvad de vil med deres fremtid. n Sapiik Ilinniartut er et projekt, der handler om at skabe stabilitet og opbakning til førsteårsstuderende på ungdomsuddannelser i håb om at mindske frafald. Angutivik Jessen 92 92

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24 2015

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unge / youth

School visit to

The passenger vessel MS Fram has sailed tourists around Greenland every summer since 2007. In June, the ship called in to Qaqortoq and the crew was visited by a group of youngsters Text: greenland today who were on a special »works visit«

The Society for Children in Greenland’s project »Sapiik Atuartut« is aimed at preparing 10th grade students to make decisions about their further education and job situation. The project has existed for seven years and it is an offer to all 10th grade students at five schools in Nuuk, Ilulissat and Qaqortoq. The purpose is to give these young people more self-confidence and a belief in their future as well as to motivate them throughout the school year to make decisions about their future. - Self-confidence and a belief in the future are important when it comes to making choices about the future, explains Project Leader Gunver Christy Justesen from the Society for Children in Greenland. - In order to create an overview, our employees arrange works visits to a series of companies. This gives the youngsters an insight into concrete job opportunities. The places we have

visited include Grønlandsbanken, Air Greenland and police and fire stations. It means a lot to the project and we highly appreciate this cooperation, says Gunver Christy Justesen.

M/S Fram

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Unique insight This year, the Society for Children in Greenland wanted to try something new by showing the youngsters aspects of the tourist industry. - For many years, the personnel on board the MS Fram have held auctions to raise funds for the Society for Children in Greenland’s projects. They did not therefore hesitate to bid us welcome in all three project towns when we contacted them, says Gunver Christy Justesen. - It is a unique opportunity for the youngsters in Nuuk, Ilulissat and Qaqortoq to gain insight into work on board one of the cruise ships that call in at their towns throughout the summer.

- The youngsters were particularly impressed when they saw the fitness room with the two outdoor Jacuzzis and when the second mate showed them the list of the many times the MS Fram has met polar bears on its cruises in Greenland. The best works visit Some of those who visited the MS Fram were Victoria Egede, Laura Ingemann and Angutivik Jessen who are all 16 years old and who finished 10th grade in June. - That was the best works visit this year, says Laura, who wants to be a dentist. All three have decided what they want to do after school and they thought the visit to the MS Fram was extremely interesting. Especially Angutivik was enthusiastic. He wants to go to the Maritime School when he is old enough and then to work on a trawler.


The Society for Children in Greenland has several Sapiik projects. n Sapiik Atuartut aims to prepare 10th grade students so they can make decisions about their future education and work. n Sapiitsumik Siunisaaq is for youngsters who have finished 10th grade, but who have not yet decided what they want to do in the future. n Sapiik Ilinniartut is a project concerned with creating stability and support for first year students taking further education and is aimed at reducing the number of drop-outs.

Laura Ingemann

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Hotel Narsaq Et hyggeligt familiedrevet hotel med flere former for indkvartering.

foto / Photo: Malou Media foto / Photo: Malou Media

foto / Photo: Malou Media

foto / Photo: Malou Media

erhverv / business

Tekst: greenland today

I foråret 2014 overtog ægteparret Kattie Nielsen og Fridrik Magnusson Hotel Narsaq. Det ligger centralt placeret i den smukke sydgrønlandske by Narsaq med ca. 1600 indbyggere. Narsaq betyder »Sletten« og har fået navn efter et stort fladt plateau omgivet af fjorde og fjelde inklusive det markante 685 meter høje Qaqqarsuaq fjeld, som tårner sig op bag byen. Hotel Narsaq har 11 værelser og 16 ekstra i et gæstehus samt nogle lejligheder til korttidsleje. Om sommeren råder de over yderligere 60 værelser på Levnedsmiddelskolen Inuili, hvilket er en oplagt mulighed for grupper. Kattie kommer oprindeligt fra Narsaq, mens Fridrik kommer fra Reykjavik i Island. Efter at have boet i London og efterfølgende startet både gæstehus, rejsebureau og udlejningslejligheder i Island, ønskede de sammen med deres fire børn at bo i Narsaq, hvor Kattie har meget af sin familie. Det er f.eks. Katties søster Bimbi, der styrer den daglige drift af hotel og restaurant. Alt efter sæson arbejder mellem fire og otte ansatte med café, restaurant, rengøring med mere. Nye tiltag Café og restaurant er renoveret med nyt interiør og nyt menukort. Her bruges så vidt muligt grønlandske råvarer, da ho96

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tellet ligger midt i et område med både rensdyr og fåreholdersteder, så der er altid friske forsyninger af kød og masser af frisk fisk. Café Narsaq er det ideelle sted at møde Narsaqs indbyggere eller bare sidde på terrassen og nyde udsigten ud over fjorden. Hotel Narsaq er i gang med at starte et mikrobryggeri med hjælp fra både en islandsk og en engelsk brygmester, der skal oplære nogle af medarbejderne i kunsten at brygge øl med lokale ingredienser. Desuden arbejdes på et projekt med navnet »South Greenland Connect« med faste bådforbindelser og mulighed for charterture. Hvorfor Narsaq? Narsaq har en optimal placering i Sydgrønland med én times sejlads eller 15 minutters flyvning til den internationale lufthavn i Narsarsuaq. Desuden er der i gennemsnit kun én times sejlads fra Narsaq til de fleste af Sydgrønlands attraktioner. Sydgrønland har mange fantastiske vandreruter, og Kattie og Fridrik tror, at blandt andet vandreturen fra lufthavnen i Narsarsuaq til Narsaq vil blive meget populær med tiden. Desuden mener parret, at det er optimalt for folk, der vil se mere af Grønland, at stå af eller

på skibet Sarfaq Ittuk på vej til eller fra destinationer som Ilulissat. Ellers er det oplagt at holde hele ferien på Hotel Narsaq, hvor man kan slappe af og nyde den gode mad baseret på lokale råvarer. Herfra er der masser af muligheder for dagture og sejlads rundt i Sydgrønland og vandreture i baglandet. Fremtiden Der kommer flere og flere turister via Island, og med Air Icelands nye større fly med plads til 80 passagerer vil det tage under to timer at flyve fra Island til Sydgrønland. Mange mennesker lever hele deres liv i storbyer, men de har brug for naturen, mener hotelparret. De tror derfor, at den udvikling, de har set via deres aktiviteter i Island, vil nå Grønland snart. Den store stigning i turismen i Island forventer parret også vil betyde, at de, der ønsker at være alene i naturen, søger andre steder hen – som det uspolerede Grønland.

Hotel Narsaq hotelnarsaq.gl Greenland Centre greenlandcentre.gl


Hotel

Narsaq

In the spring of 2014 husband and wife Fridrik Magnusson and Kattie Nielsen took over Hotel Narsaq. It is centrally located in South Greenland in the beautiful town of Narsaq which has about 1,600 inhabitants. Narsaq means »the plain« and has its name from a great flat plain surrounded by fjords and mountains with the characteristic 685-metre high Mountain Qaqqarsuaq which towers up behind the town. Hotel Narsaq has 11 rooms with an extra 16 rooms in a guest house and some apartments for short rentals. In the summer, they have a further 60 rooms at their disposal at the Inuili Catering School which are suitable for groups. Kattie originally comes from Narsaq, while Fridrik comes from Reykjavik in Iceland. After living in London and subsequently starting a guest house, a travel agency and renting out apartments in Iceland, they wanted to live with their four children in Narsaq where Kattie has much of her family. It is Kattie’s sister Bimbi who usually runs the hotel and restaurant. Depending on the season, there are between four and eight employees for the café, the restaurant and cleaning etc. New initiatives The café and restaurant have been renovated with new interiors and new menus.

foto / Photo: Malou Media

foto / Photo: privat / private

Text: greenland today

Greenlandic ingredients are used whenever possible since the hotel is located in an area with both reindeer and sheep stations, so there is always a supply of fresh meat and plenty of fresh fish. Café Narsaq is the ideal place to meet the people who live in Narsaq, or to simply sit on the terrace and enjoy the view of the fjord. Hotel Narsaq is starting a micro-brewery with the assistance of an Icelandic master brewer and an English master brewer who will teach the employees the art of brewing beer with local ingredients. In addition, work is being carried out on a project called »South Greenland Connect« with regular boat connections and opportunities for charter trips. Why Narsaq? Narsaq is perfectly situated in South Greenland with a one-hour boat trip or a 15-minute flight to the International airport in Narsarsuaq. Furthermore, there is on average just a one hour boat trip from Narsaq to most of South Greenland’s attractions. South Greenland has many marvellous hiking routes and Kattie and Fridrik believe that the route from the International airport in Narsarsuaq to Narsaq is one of those that will become very popular in time. The couple also believe that for people who want to see more

foto / Photo: Malou Media

foto / Photo: David Trood ­/ Visit Greenland

A cosy, family hotel with different types of accommodation

of Greenland, it would be perfect to disembark from Sarfaq Ittuk on the way to or from destinations like Ilulissat. Otherwise, it is a great idea to spend the entire holiday at Hotel Narsaq, where you can relax and enjoy good food based on local ingredients. From here, there are plenty of opportunities for day trips and boat trips around South Greenland and for hikes in the backcountry. The future More and more tourists are coming via Iceland and with Air Iceland’s new, bigger aircraft that can carry 80 passengers, it takes only two hours to fly from Iceland to South Greenland. Many people live their entire lives in cities, but people need nature, in the opinion of the hotel couple. They believe that the developments that they have experienced through their activities in Iceland will soon reach Greenland. The couple believe that the extensive increase in tourism experienced by Iceland means that those who want to find solitude in nature will seek other destinations, such as the unspoiled Greenland. Hotel Narsaq hotelnarsaq.gl Greenland Centre greenlandcentre.gl 24 2015

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næste nummer / next issue

ET UNIKT MUSEUM A UNIQUE MUSEUM

MODERNE TIDER MODERN TIMES

VANDRING HIKING

KULTUR, OPLEVELSER & ERHVERV CULTURE, ADVENTURE & BUSINESS

ET ANDERLEDES JOB A DIFFERENT KIND OF JOB

EN ARBEJDSPLADS I GRØNLAND A WORKPLACE IN GREENLAND

PORTRÆT AF EN ENER PORTRAIT OF A LONER

»Næste nummer« er kun en hensigtserklæring. »Next issue« is just a declaration of intent.

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greenland today no 24  

Stories from Greenland and the Arctic. For all who are interested in culture, business, travel experiences, music, food, development and cli...

greenland today no 24  

Stories from Greenland and the Arctic. For all who are interested in culture, business, travel experiences, music, food, development and cli...

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