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NO. 23 2015

discovery greenland 50 år med S-61 50 years with S-61 urbaniseringen i Grønland Urbanization in greenland

CULTURE, ADVENTURE & BUSINESS Kultur, Oplevelser & Erhverv HOTEL kulusuk

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Royal Greenland

- The Norths Atlantic Champion Royal Greenland suliffeqarfiuvoq kalaallit kulturiannik sorlaqarfeqartoq. Aalisakkanik qalerualinnillu nioqqutissaativut pitsaalluinnartuusut tunisassiassanit asseqanngitsunit Kalaallit Nunaanneersunit tunisassiaapput. Royal Greenland er en virksomhed med dybe rødder i den grønlandske kultur. Unikke grønlandske råvarer er det helt naturlige fundament for vores sortiment af højkvalitets fiskeog skaldyrsprodukter. Royal Greenland is a company with deep roots in the Greenlandic culture. Unique Greenlandic raw materials are the natural foundation of our assortment of high quality seafood products.

www.royalgreenland.com www.royalgreenland.gl


leder / editorial

TogeTher we creaTe

solutions

Iværksættere i Grønland I dette nummer er der flere historier om folk, der har turde forfølge deres ideer. Læs bl.a. om lokal produceret sæbe i Narsaq og en tegner i Nuuk. Amerikansk fødte Ruth Montgomery-Andersen har danset hele livet og har i dag sit eget dansestudie i Nuuk. Og det er aldrig for sent at forfølge sin drøm. Heller ikke, selvom man er enlig mor som Helene Tukula, der er i gang med en ny uddannelse.

Dyk med »Under the Pole« ekspeditionen under isen, eller se en koreaners forestilling om Grønland og fantastiske dyrefoto fra Thule. Uanset om du er mest interesseret i kultur, oplevelser eller erhverv, er der som sædvanligt noget for alle.

God fornøjelse med læsningen Avi & Mads

We provide special expertise in oil & energy, project cargo, cruise logistics, trophy transport, customs clearance and all types of port services including vessel supply and crew change. » Blue Water Greenland Nuuk: T: +299 32 54 10 M: bwgnuuk@bws.dk Sisimiut: T: +299 86 63 65 M: sisimiut@bws.dk Ilulissat: T: +299 94 22 10 M: ilulissat@bws.dk

Udgiver & Redaktør

Entrepreneurs in Greenland In this issue, there are several stories about people who dared to pursue their ideas. Read about locally-produced soaps from Narsaq and an artist in Nuuk. American-born Ruth Montgomery-Andersen has danced all her life and today she has her own dance studio in Nuuk. And it is never too late to follow your dreams – even if you are a single mother like Helene Tukula, who is taking a new course of studies.

Established in 1988, Blue Water Shipping is Greenland’s largest freight forwarding company. Own offices are located in Nuuk, Sisimiut and Ilulissat. In addition, a network of agents all over Greenland assist in providing any transport solution by sea, air or road as well as a range of value added services.

Dive under the ice with the »Under the Pole« expedition, or observe a Korean’s impression of Greenland and see fantastic photos of animals from Thule. Whether your interests lie mainly in culture, experiences or business, there is, as usual, something for everyone.

Enjoy your reading Avi & Mads Publisher & Editor

.com

Blue Water Greenland A/S | www.bws.dk


indhold / contents

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discovery greenland discovery greenland

urbaniseringen i grønland urbanization in greenland

Den uundværlige sæl 6 En dansende ildsjæl 10 Nyheder 12 Bøger 14 Det sker i Kalaallit Illuutaat 15 50 år med S-61 helikoptere 16 Ladies Circle i Nuuk 20 Grønland som inspiration 24 Iværksætter og illustrator 28 Urbaniseringen i Grønland 36 Rosa i Eqalugaarsuit 40 Levn fra fransk Polar ekspedition 48 Helene Tukula 56 Sæbe fra Sydgrønland 60 Talentet er åbenlyst 64 Anderledes & nytænkende 68 Thule - en kæmpe oplevelse 70 Hotel Kulusuk 78 Discovery Greenland 82 Ørred tapas 94 Ærtesuppe med ørred på spyd 96

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inuit young - Sæbe fra Sydgrønland - Soap from South Greenland greenland today

NO. 23 2015

64-66 ari hermann discovery greenland 50 år med s-61 50 years with s-61 urbaniseringen i grønland urbanization in greenland

culture, adventure & business Kultur, oplevelser & erhverv

ettable journey where we explore the s and cities in the Arctic spring.

hotel KulusuK

Forside foto / Cover photo: Lucas Santucci / Under The Pole

NO. 23 DKK 49,95

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greenland today

Tryk/Printing PrintConnect Aps

Ansv. redaktør/Editor in Chief Mads Nordlund editor@greenlandtoday.com

Grafisk tilrettelægning/Layout Aviaq Nordlund Mørch (red./ed.) aviaq@greenlandtoday.com

ISSN 1902-8857

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M i l j ø mær

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Oversættelse/Translation Maria Holm & Karina Møller

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Udgiver/Publisher Aviaq Nordlund Mørch

No

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enland-travel.com/9042 33 13 10 11

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he highlights of Greenland with this 8 nture: the magical colours of the midnight ng among icebergs and through deep urmet cuisine with a view of gigantic and the endless expanse of the inland

e May 2015 K 22,495

S-61

den uundværlige sæl The indispenabel seal

g in the Arctic and see the midnight sun

ourney: elings in Greenland

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820 Tryksag

Skribenter/Writers Karina Møller, Toke Brødsgaard, Martin Breum, Anne Mette Ehlers, greenland today, Mads Nordlund, John Jakobsen

Annoncer/Advertising aviaq@greenlandtoday.com +45 3262 3997 nh@rosendahls.dk +45 7610 1156


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Ærtesuppe - med ørred på spyd Pea soup - with trout on skewers The indispensable Seal 7 News 12 A dancing soul on fire 13 Books 14 Events at Greenlandic House 15 50 years with S-61 helicopters 18 Ladies Circle in Nuuk 22 Greenland as inspiration 26 Entrepreneur and illustrator 32 Urbanization in Greenland 37 Rosa from Eqalugaarsuit 44 Evidence of French Polar expedition 50 Helene Tukula 58 Soap from South Greenland 62 The talent is obvious 66 Different & original 69 Thule - a huge experience 74 Hotel Kulusuk 80 Discovery Greenland 88 Trout tapas 95 Pea soup with trout on skewers 97 Foto/Photo Ciril Jazbec, Karina Møller, Hasse Ferrold, Else Lennert, Toke Brødsgaard, Private, Air Greenland, Søren Lund, Ladies Circle Nuuk, Kim Whee-Lee, by Nivíka, greenland.com, Anedorthe Silassen, Nukaaraq Kristine Poulsen, Anne Mette Ehlers, J. J. Languepin, Inuit Young, John Jakobsen, Mads Nordlund, Arne Hermann, Malik Chemnitz, Kaare Sylvest Pedersen, Jens Andersen, Jonas Beyer Petersen, Arctic Wonderland Tours, Lucas Santucci / Under The Pole, greenland today

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erhverv / business

Rifles have replaced harpoons, Albert Lukassen tells.

Den uundværlige

sæl

Der er millioner af sæler i Arktis, og de er fortsat en af de vigtigste kilder til ernæring og tøj til inuit over hele Arktis. Tekst: Karina Møller

I det moderne samfund i Grønland er sælen stadig regelmæssigt på menuen, og sælskind bruges til tøj fra den farverige traditionelle vestgrønlandske nationaldragt til moderne design. I Grønland har man altid praktiseret sæljagt på en bæredygtig måde. Grønlandske fangere har en naturlig bevidsthed, værdsættelse og respekt omkring jagt og fiskeri. Eksport af sælskind er faldet drastisk, siden EU forbød import af sælskind i 2009, selv med undtagelsen der tillader Grønland fortsat at eksportere til EU-lande. Dette er uheldigt for Grønland, især for de jægere der er afhængige af indtægterne fra sælskind. Sæl på menuen Sælkød har et højt proteinindhold, og spækket er med til at holde folk varme i de kolde vintermåneder. Før man havde elektricitet, brugte man spæk som en kilde til lys. Man lavede en lampe udskåret i fedtsten, fyldte lampen med spæk og brugte bl.a. kæruld, mos eller tørrede kaninekskrementer som væge. Den mest almindelige måde at spise sæl i Grønland er »suaasat«, en suppe lavet af kød, vand, ris og løg. Tørret sælkød, der spises med spæk, er også en traditionel made at nyde det på. 6

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I dag bruger folk alle slags opskrifter, såsom bøf, gryderetter, pandestegt eller laver en steg med det møre sælkød.

Utallige måder at bruge sælskind på Sælskind bruges til at lave tøj, støvler, kajakker, tasker og i dag selv i møbeldesign. Der er små produktionsselskaber mange steder i Grønland, der syr tøj, som sælges lokalt. Great Greenland er en moderne garvnings- og produktionsvirksomhed, der laver pelse og andre produkter fremstillet af sælskind. Great Greenland skaber produkter med det naturlige look af skindet, men de garver også nogle skind til læder og farver andre sælskind i forskellige farver. Sælskindslæder er tykt og har naturlige »ridser«, der giver det et mere råt look. Mode designere bruger sælskind I dag er der flere og flere grønlandske modedesignere. Mange af dem bruger sælskind og skaber frakker, tasker, IPadcovers etc. med moderne design. Isaksen Design har samarbejdet med Great Grønland og skabt smukke moderne produkter lavet af sælskind. Else Lennert designer mest kjoler og bruger sælskind som detaljer til at give hendes design et helt unikt look.

Bibi Chemnitz, en ung innovativ designer, har for nyligt eksperimenteret med brug af sælskind i hendes design og håber på at samarbejde med Great Greenland i fremtiden.

Sæl'fies og sælskindsmode på de royale gulve I de seneste år har der været mange arrangementer, og en trend florerede på sociale medier, hvor folk tog »sæl'fies« for at bidrage til at fremme og støtte Inuit-kulturen og brugen af sælskind på en bæredygtig måde. Det er en hård kamp, da mange berømtheder og humanitære grupper offentligt har udsendt erklæringer om at forbyde sæljagt. Denne tendens er en konsekvens af de uetiske metoder, der anvendes i kommerciel sæljagt i Canada, men desværre påvirker bæredygtige jægere rundt omkring i verden. Et anden udfording er, at øko-balancen forstyrres, når færre sæler fanges, da sælen jo spiser fisk, og dette resulterer i flere sæler og færre fisk i farvandene. I marts 2014 blev et enestående initiativ taget af den grønlandske politiker Sara Olsvig, der på daværende tidspunkt var medlem af det danske folketing. For at vise deres støtte til den

foto / Photo: Ciril Jazbec

Rifler har erstattet harpuner, fortæller Albert Lukassen.


foto / Photo: karina møller

bæredygtige jagt i Grønland opfordrede hun folketingets medlemmer til at deltage i en upartisk politisk erklæring ved at bære dele af tøj lavet af sælskind til Dronningen Margrethes gallamiddag. Desuden fandt en begivenhed sted i København i april 2014 for at fremme og støtte de grønlandske sælfangere arrangeret af KNAPK (Fiskerne og Fangernes Forening i Grønland). KNAPK har indledt en kampagne kaldet Inuit Sila, der har til hensigt at informere verden om bæredygtig sæljagt i Grønland. Fangerens perspektiv - Sæljagt har været en del af kulturen i Grønland i århundreder. Jeg har gået på sæljagt, siden jeg var syv år gammel. Jagtmetoder har ændret sig gennem årene. Vi brugte engang harpuner og net til at fange med. I dag er det forbudt at fange sæler med net, og rifler har erstattet harpuner, siger Albert Lukassen fra Uummannaq. - I mange år var det en god indtægtskilde at sælge skind, men i de senere år er salgsprisen på sælskind faldet drastisk, så det nærmest ikke kan betale sig at tage sig tid til at skrabe og rense skind. Sæljagt som indkomst er langsomt blevet erstattet af fiskeri, men det er stadig en stor del af vores egen kost. - Sælen er vigtig, fordi den giver mad på bordet for familien, foder til hundene og tøj til de kolde måneder. Sælkød og spæk giver også god energi og varme, når du er ude på lange ture om vinteren, slutter Albert.

Great Greenland har lavet mange kollektioner, senest i samarbejde med den danske designer Jesper Høvring. Den imponerende kollektion blev præsenteret til Copenhagen Fashion Week 2015.

Greet Greenland has made many collections, the latest in collaboration with the Danish designer Jesper Hovring. The impressive collection was presented during Copenhagen Fashion Week 2015.

In the modern society of Greenland, seal is still a regular feature on the menu, and sealskin is used in clothing from the colourful traditional West Greenlandic outfit to modern high fashion designs. In Greenland hunting seal has always been practiced in a sustainable way. Among Greenlandic hunters are a great awareness, appreciation and respect when hunting and fishing. Export of sealskin has fallen drastically since the EU banned import of sealskin in 2009, even with the exception that allows Greenland to continue to export to EU countries. This is unfortunate for

Greenland, especially for the hunters who rely on the income from such. Seal on the menu Seal meat is high in protein and the blubber helps keep people warm in the cold winter months. Before electricity blubber was used as a source of light, using a carved soapstone filled with blubber and Arctic cotton grass, moss or dried rabbit droppings as a wick. The most common way to eat seal in Greenland is suaasat, soup made from meat, water, rice and onions. Dried seal meat, eaten with blubber is also a more traditional way of enjoying it.

seal

The indispensable

There are millions of seals in the Arctic, and they remain one of the major providers of nutrition and clothing for the Inuit People all across the Arctic. Text: Karina Moeller 23 2015

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»Seal-fie« to help promote the Inuit culture and the use of seal skin in a sustainable way. »Sæl-fie« for at bidrage til at fremme Inuit-kulturen og brugen af sælskind på en bæredygtig måde.

Seal skin used in furniture design.

Today people make all kinds of recipes, such as steak, stir fry, roast with the tender seal meat. The many uses of seal skin Seal skin is used to make clothing, boots, kayak, bags, and today even in furniture design. There are small production companies in many cities and towns throughout Greenland that produce clothing sold locally. Great Greenland is a modern tanning and production company, that processes furs and sells high fashion wear and other products made from sealskin. Greet Greenland creates products incorporating the natural look of the skin, but they also tan or even dye the seal skin in different colours. The sealskin leather is thick and has natural »scratches« that gives it a more rough look. Fashion designers using seal skin in their designs Today, more and more Greenlandic designers are popping up on the fashion scene. Many of them use sealskin and create contemporary patterns, designing coats, handbags, IPad covers etc. Isaksen Design has collaborated with Great Greenland and created beautiful contemporary products made out of sealskin. Else Lennert creates mostly gowns and dresses and uses seal skin as an ac8

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cent to give her design a more dramatic effect. Bibi Chemnitz, a young innovative designer, recently experimented using sealskin in her design and hopes to collaborate with Great Greenland in the future. Sealfies and seal fashion at the royal gala In the recent years, many events and a new trend of taking »seal-fies« have been done to help promote the Inuit culture and the use of seal skin in a sustainable way. It is an up-hill battle, as numerous celebrities and humanitarian groups have made public statements to ban seal hunting. This trend is the consequence of the unethical methods used in commercial seal hunting in Canada, but unfortunately affects the sustainable hunters around the world. Another issue is that the eco balance is disturbed by less seal hunted, as the seal eats fish, and that results in more seals and less fish in the waters. In March 2014 a unique initiative was taken by the Greenlandic politician, who then served as a member of the Danish Parliament, Sara Olsvig. To show their support of the sustainable hunting practices in Greenland, she encouraged the parliament’s members to participate in a bi-partisan political statement by publicly wearing something made out of seal skin.

In April 2014 an another event took place in Copenhagen, Denmark promoting and in support of the Greenlandic seal hunters organized by KNAPK (the Hunters Association in Greenland). KNAPK has initiated a campaign called Inuit Sila, that intends to inform the world about the sustainable seal hunting in Greenland. The hunter's perspective - Seal hunting has been part of the culture in Greenland for centuries. I have gone seal hunting since I was 7 years old. Hunting methods have changed over the years. We used to hunt with harpoons and nets. Today, it is forbidden to catch seals with nets, and rifles have replaced harpoons, says Albert Lukassen from Uummannaq. - For many years, it was a good source of income selling the skins, but in recent years sales price of sealskin have fallen drastically, so it hardly makes sense to take the time to scrape and clean the skins. Seal hunt as income has slowly been replaced by fishing, but it is still a huge part of subsistence hunting. - The seal is important, because it provides food on the table for the family, feed the dogs and provide clothes for the cold months. Seal meat and blubber also provides good energy and heat when you are out on long trips in the winter, Albert ends.

foto / Photo: Else Lennert

foto / Photo: Hasse Ferrold

Sælskind anvendt i møbeldesign.


Royal Arctic Line – a lifeline to society in Greenland As the national shipping line in Greenland we offer: · Ships and equipment designed for Arctic conditions · Weekly service from Europe to Greenland · Own terminal facilities, and personnel in 13 Greenlandic harbours · Many years of experience in navigating and operating in Arctic waters · Quality and Safety certified ships and terminals

Pilersuisoq is Greenland’s largest retail chain, with outlets in towns and villages all over the country, always near you.

Polaroil is Greenland’s largest energy and oil supply company. Polaroil operates tank installations throughout Greenland.

All Greenland’s webshop, pisisa.gl, offers thousands of non-food products at competitive prices.

greenland today 23 2015 Providing vital supplies to every part of Greenland

9


kunst / art

En dansende ildsjæl Den amerikanskfødte Ruth Montgomery-Andersen har levet de sidste 20 år i Grønland. Tekst: Toke Brødsgaard & greenland today

Ruth Montgomery-Andersen har boet i Grønland siden 1995. Selvom Grønland i et vist omfang er isoleret på grund af de store afstande og de høje rejseomkostninger, tror hun på, at der er mulighed for at spotte unge dansetalenter og udvikle dem, der selv er klar til at gøre en indsats. Barndom i Texas Ruth er født i Texas, USA, i en arbejderfamilie, hvor ingen af forældrene havde en videregående uddannelse. Som 4-årig gjorde Ruth det klart for sin mor, at nu ville hun i skole. Hun var for ung til at starte på en almindelig skole, så hendes mor fandt frem til, at Ruth kunne starte på en danseskole. Faktisk optog danseskolen ikke elever, der var så unge, men Ruths mor fik skolen overtalt til at tage Ruth på prøve. Det blev gjort under den forudsætning, at hvis Ruth på nogen måde forstyrrede det øvrige hold, skulle hun stoppe straks. Det var på ingen måde tilfældet, og dette blev starten til et lidenskabeligt møde med dansen. Lidenskabelig passion Familien havde ingen traditioner for at 10

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danse, og da hverdagen var fyldt op af arbejde, måtte Ruth selv arbejde med dansen. Det gjorde hun ihærdigt og knoklede på. Familien bakkede hende op, men under den forudsætning at hun samtidig passede sin skole og hjalp til med de huslige pligter. Passioneret brugte Ruth meget af sin fritid på dansen, og dette fortsatte hun med op gennem årerne. Som 21-årig tog hun til Danmark for at starte uddannelsen som forskolelærer for senere at læse til jordemoder. Undervejs gik hun ikke i stå med dansen. Hun opsøgte mange forskellige danseskoler og forsøgte at sammensætte et program, så hun kunne danse alle ugens dage ved at gå til forskellige stilarter som ballet, jazzdans, moderne dans og mange andre, hun fik indøvet. Studiejob Ruth læste i Århus, og her begyndte hun sideløbende med studiet at arbejde for blandt andre filmproduceren Thomas Grimm, der i danseverdenen er meget anerkendt. Her dansede hun med, når der skulle laves TV-produktioner, og der manglede dansere. Hun levede et liv, hvor hun læste, lavede strækøvelser,

dansede, studerede, læste og lavede flere danseøvelser. Dansen var fuldt ud integreret i hendes hverdag i alt, hvad hun foretog sig. Spændende oplevelser Gennem hårdt arbejde opnåede Ruth at have danset sammen med en lang række centrale personer indenfor dans, så som Ygor Youskevitch, Merce Cunningham, Alvin Ailey, Kathryn Ricketts og Mary Overlie. I Danmark forelskede Ruth sig i Steen Montgomery Andersen. De giftede sig og har siden fået to friske drenge, Stephan og Alexander. Familien har et meget tæt sammenhold, og de snakker om alt. Ruth og Steen er begge flittige og stiller høje krav både til sig selv og deres sønner. Mødet med Grønland I 1995 flyttede Ruth til Grønland, hvor hun sammen med sin familie bosatte sig i Ilulissat, da hendes mand fik job som økonomichef i Pilersuisoq. Udfordringen med at flytte til Grønland var tillokkende for den lille familie. Ruth startede som distriktsjordemoder i Ilulissat. Familien blev i Ilulissat i to år, før de flyttede til Sisimiut, hvor de boede i fire år.


Tiden i Ilulissat og Sisimiut gjorde, at Ruth på rigtig mange måder fik et godt indblik i den grønlandske kultur og ligeledes fik lært en del af det grønlandske sprog. Begge egenskaber hun sidenhen har draget stor nytte af. Nuuk gav nye muligheder Da familien i 2001 flyttede til Nuuk, åbnede dette nye muligheder for Ruth, hvad angår dansen. Hun arbejdede stadig som jordemoder, men havde et samarbejde med Dida Jensens danseskole, hvor hun kunne videreformidle sin passion for dansen. Foruden jordemoder har Ruth arbejdet for NAPA, der er Nordens Institut i Grønland. I den forbindelse var hun med til forberedelserne af Arctic Winter Games 2010, der blev afholdt i Canada. I den forbindelse skulle en række unge kunstneriske talenter repræsentere Grønland, og Ruth var ansvarlig for at finde dem. Ung multikunstner Ruth tog kontakt til skoler over hele Grønland for at høre, om de havde elever med særlige talenter. En skole vendte tilbage til Ruth med den besked, at de havde en elev, der havde lært sig selv at

danse præcis som i Riverdance og desuden besad en række andre kunstneriske egenskaber. Ruth stiftede bekendtskab med drengen Hans Henrik Poulsen på kun 14 år i Qeqertarsuaq. Foran et TV med et VHSbånd med Riverdance lavede han en tro kopi af det to timers show, der kørte foran dem. Foruden det kunne han spille violin og andre instrumenter. Alt sammen noget han havde lært sig selv. Ruth var imponeret og inviterede Hans Henrik til Nuuk for første gang i hans liv. Flere af de øvrige talenter, der var fra Nuuk, havde i et halvt år løbende forberedt sig til AWG. Hans Henrik deltog grundet de geografiske udfordringer først, da der startede intensiv workshop 10 dage kort før AWG. I den periode boede Hans Henrik hos Ruth og Steen og blev hurtigt en del af familien. Kontakten til familien blev derfor heller ikke afsluttet, da AWG var overstået, og Hans-Henrik var assisterende lærer i ballet, mens han studerede ved Grønlands Nationalteater. Æblet falder sjældent langt fra stammen Ruths søn, Alexander, er ligeledes en

talentfuld danser. Han fangede interessen, da han var 16 år, hvilket ellers ikke havde været på tale. Ruth aftalte derfor med en koreograf i Norge, at han kunne komme til Norge og få privatlektioner for at se, om det virkelig var noget, han ville. Det var det i høj grad. I gymnasietiden kom Alexander i sommerferierne på danseskole i Norge, og da gymnasiet sluttede, fik han et stipendium til Norges bedste danseakademi Bårdar. Han afsluttede denne uddannelse i 2011 og kan nu kalde sig professionel danser. Han er efterfølgende vendt tilbage til Nuuk, hvor han har været med i en lang række både teater- og danseforestillinger og i dag arbejder som freelance danser og performer i Grønland og Europa, samt som danselærer. Egen virksomhed Allerede i Sisimiut stiftede Ruth sin egen virksomhed, Qiajuk Production. En konsulentvirksomhed, hvor hun deltog i en lang række produktioner som idemager, koreograf og andre lignende opgaver. Produktionerne har både været af kulturel karakter og informations- eller undervisningsrelaterede. 23 2015

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nyheder / news

Grønland med i Google Street View I februar 2015 fik Grønland 11 steder med i Google Street View. Dermed kan folk i hele verden nu opleve en tur på vejene i hovedstaden Nuuk eller se, hvordan det er at sejle mellem isbjergene i Ilulissat Isfjord. Det har taget Google et år at indsamle billeder til projektet. Om der

kommer flere byer med fra Grønland, afhænger af om Google vurderer, at der er nok brugere, der ser på de grønlandske steder.

Se mere maps.google.gl

Greenland in Google Street View In February 2015, Google added 11 places in Greenland to Google Street View. Now, people from all over the world can experience a tour of the streets of Nuuk, the capital, or see what it is like to sail among the icebergs in Ilulissat Ice Fjord. It has taken Google one year to collect the images for the project.

Whether there will be more towns from Greenland depends on whether Google considers there are enough users of the present sites in Greenland.

See more maps.google.gl

Grønlands største facebook side Hvis du ikke allerede er ven med greenland today på Facebook, bør du måske blive det. Her har over 100.000 klikket »Synes godt om« og får dermed et unikt foto fra Grønland hver eneste dage året rundt.

Dermed er greenland today den største Facebook side med billeder, film og historier fra Grønland. Se mere facebook.com/greenlandtoday

Greenland’s biggest Facebook site If you haven’t already friended greenland today on Facebook, perhaps you should consider doing so. More than 100,000 people have clicked »like« which gives them a unique photo from Greenland every day of the year. 12

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This means that greenland today is the biggest Facebook site with pictures, films and stories from Greenland. See more facebook.com/greenlandtoday

Ligeledes har Ruth været tovholder eller idemand bag en række kulturelle tiltag i Grønland primært til glæde for de unge. En målgruppe, der står Ruths hjerte meget nær. I 2013 slog hun dørene op for hendes egen danseskole i Nuuk, Qiajuk Studios. Dette projekt har været længe undervejs, for Ruth er ikke en kvinde, der går på kompromis. I lang tid har hun søgt efter et egnet lokale og dygtige undervisere. Endelig i 2013 lykkedes det hende, og danseskolen underviser i dag i både ballet, hip hop, moderne dans og jazz dans. Optrædende elever Ved særlige lejligheder optræder eleverne med deres danse, og hvert år afholder Qiajuk Studios et show i Katuaq, hvor publikum kan se, hvad eleverne har lært. I 2016 er Grønland vært for Arctic Winter Games, der skal afholdes i Nuuk. Her er Ruth ansat som leder for de mange kulturbegivenheder, der kommer til at være i forbindelse med Grønlands værtskab. Med hendes store engagement er der ingen tvivl om, at Grønland kulturelt bliver repræsenteret på bedste vis. Fremtiden bringer sikkert også meget andet fra Ruth Montgomery-Andersen og hendes elever, da hun forhåbentlig forsat vil præge generationer af dansere i Grønland.


A dancing soul on fire The American-born Ruth Montgomery-Andersen has lived in Greenland the past 20 years. Text: Toke Brødsgaard & greenland today

Ruth Montgomery-Andersen has lived in Greenland since 1995. Although Greenland is to some extent isolated because of the great distances and high travel costs, Ruth believes that there is a possibility of spotting young dance talents and develop those who are ready to make the effort it takes. Childhood in Texas Ruth was born in Texas, USA, into a working class family where neither parent had a higher education. When Ruth was 4-years-old she made it clear to her mother that she wanted to go to school. She was too young to start regular school, so her mother found out that Ruth could attend a dance school. Actually Ruth was too young for that as well, so her mother convinced the dance school to allow Ruth to do an audition. It was done under the condition that if Ruth in any way disturbed the other piers, she should stop immediately. It was by no means the case and this was the start of a passionate encounter with dance. Passionate passion The family had no dance tradition as everyday life was busy with work, so Ruth had to work on the dance herself. She diligently did and worked hard on it. The family backed her up, but with the condition that she did well in school and helped with the household chores. Ruth spent much of her spare time passionately on dance and this continued throughout her whole upbringing.

Ruth went to Denmark when she was 21 years old to attend a Teachers College and later successfully got her midwifery degree. Even though she was busy with her education, Ruth still found time to dance. She sought out many different dance schools and tried to put together a program so she could dance every day of the week, by going to different classes like ballet, jazz dance, modern dance and many others that she found interesting. Student job Ruth was studying in Aarhus, and here she began working alongside her studies, among other for the movie producer Thomas Grimm, who within the world of dance is highly recognized. Here she danced in TV productions when they were lacking dancers. She lived a life where she read, did stretching exercises, danced, studied, read and more dance exercises. Dancing was fully integrated into her everyday life in everything she did. Exciting experiences Through hard work Ruth achieved to dance with a wide range of key people in the dance world, such as Ygor Youskevitch, Merce Cunningham, Alvin Ailey, Kathryn Ricketts and Mary Overlie. Ruth fell in love with Steen Montgomery Andersen while in Denmark. They married and are parents of two bright boys, Stephan and Alexander. The family is very close, and they talk about everything. Ruth and Steen are both diligent and set high demands for themselves and their sons.

The meeting with Greenland Ruth moved to Greenland in 1995, where she and her family settled in Ilulissat when her husband got a job as CFO in Pilersuisoq. The challenge of moving to Greenland was exciting for the little family. Ruth got a job as the district midwife in Ilulissat. The family lived in Ilulissat for two years before moving to Sisimiut where they lived for four years. The time in Ilulissat and Sisimiut gave Ruth the opportunity to get a good insight into the Greenlandic culture and also began to learn the Greenlandic language. Both which she has greatly benefited from since. Nuuk brought new opportunities New opportunities in dance opened up for Ruth when the family moved to Nuuk in 2001. She was still working as a midwife, but had a collaboration with Dida Jensen's Dance School where she could pass on her passion for dance. Ruth has also worked for NAPA, the Nordic Institute in Greenland. In this context, she was in charge of Greenland's cultural presentation at Arctic Winter Games 2010, held in Canada. Ruth was responsible for finding talented young people in Greenland, who could participate in the production. Young multi-talented artist Ruth contacted schools across Greenland to see if they had students with special talents. A school returned to Ruth with the message that they had a student who had taught himself to 23 2015

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bøger / books

Stephen Pax Leonard The Polar North - Ways of Speaking, ways of Belonging Bogen dokumenterer sproget og de sproglige traditioner hos en lille gruppe Inuit der lever i et afsides hjørne af Nord-Vestgrønland. Engelsk, DKK 220 --The book document the language and spoken traditions of a small group of Inuit living in a remote corner of north­ west Greenland. English, €29

BOOKS

William W. Fitzhugh and Wilfred E. Richard Maine to Greenland - Exploring the Maritime Far Northeast Historie, beboede områder og kulturen afdækkes på en rejse fra Maine til Grønland, med fantastiske fotos af utrolige landskaber undervejs. --History, habitat, and culture revealed traveling from Maine to greenland, with stunning photos of incredible landscapes along the way.

bøger 14

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dance just like in Riverdance, and who also had other artistic talents. Ruth became acquainted with the 14 years old boy Hans Henrik Poulsen in Qeqertarsuaq. In front of a TV with a VHS tape playing, he made a replica of the two hour long show Riverdance. He also played the violin and other instruments. All of which he had taught himself. Ruth was impressed and invited Hans Henrik to Nuuk, for the first time in his life. Several of the other talents who were from Nuuk had for half a year continuously prepared for AWG. Hans Henrik only took part, due to the geographical challenges during the intensive workshop 10 days before AWG. During the period Hans Henrik lived with Ruth and Steen and quickly became part of the family. The contact with the family continued even after AWG was over, and Hans-Henrik became an assistant teacher in ballet while studying at the Greenland National Theatre. The apple rarely falls far from the tree Ruth's son, Alexander, is also a talented dancer. He caught the interest when he was 16 years, which would not otherwise have been considered. Ruth made an agreement with a choreographer in Norway that he would go to Norway for a few private lessons, to see if it really was something he wanted to do. It was very much the case. In high school, Alexander spend his summer breaks at the dance school in Norway. After finishing high school he got a scholarship to Norway's best dance academy Bårdar. He completed this training in 2011 and can now call himself a professional dancer. He has since returned to Nuuk, where he has been involved in a wide range of both theater and dance performan-

ces, and currently works as a freelance dancer and performer in Greenland and Europe, as well as a dance instructor. Own business Ruth founded her own company, Qiajuk Production when they lived in Sisimiut. A consulting firm, where she worked in numerous productions as a creative director, choreographer and other similar tasks. The productions have been cultural, information or education related. Ruth has also been coordinator or creative director behind a series of cultural activities in Greenland primarily for the benefit of young people. An audience that is Ruth's heart very near. In 2013 she opened the doors to her own dance school in Nuuk, Qiajuk Studios. This project has been a long time coming, for Ruth is not a woman who compromises. She had been searching for a suitable space and excellent teachers. In 2013 she managed to meet her ambitions and the dance school offers classes in ballet, hip hop, modern dance and jazz dance. Performing students The students perform at special occasions, and each year Qiajuk Studios produce a show in Katuaq, where the audience can see what students have learned throughout the year. Greenland will host Arctic Winter Games in Nuuk in 2016. Ruth is hired as the coordinator of the many cultural events that are going to be in connection with AWG. Greenland will be culturally represented in the best possible way under Ruth's professionalism and big commitment. There is no doubt that the future brings more from Ruth MontgomeryAndersen and her students, as she hopefully will continue to influence generations of dancers in Greenland.


Det sker i Kalaallit Illuutaat Events at Greenlandic House Udstillinger / Exhibitions 15. april – 29. maj

8. juni – 31. juli

Dobbeltudstilling: To unge fremstormende kunstnere i det grønlandske kunstmiljø: Sissi Møller og Nanna Nikolajsen.

GREENLAND SPIRIT: Et stort tværkulturelt udstillingsprojekt med Pipaluk K. Jørgensen, Nukâka Coster-Waldau, Lisa Gaz Zaa Lung Qaaviaq og Marti Mueller. Udstillingen kommer blandt andet til at bestå af fotografier, film, malerier og installationer. June 8th– July 31st GREENLAND SPIRIT: A big crosscultural exhibition with Pipaluk K. Jørgensen, Nukâka Coster-Waldau, Lisa Gaz Zaa Lung Qaavigaq and Marti Mueller. The Exhibition will among other things consist of photographs, films, paintings and installations.

April 15th – May 29th Double exhibition: Up-and-coming Greenlandic artists. Two young emerging Greenlandic artists: Sissi Møller and Nanna Nikolajsen. Arrangementer / Events Grønlandsk mad

March 21st and 22nd at 11 am to 17

June 21st

Hver tirsdag fra kl. 12-14 serveres der grønlandsk mad til 75 kr. pr. kuvert. Du kan finde menuen på www.sumut.dk

Greenlandic Easter market: Get in the mood for spring with the big Greenlandic Easter market. There will be more than 20 stalls with everything from recycled clothes to seal fur products and wrist warmers.

The National Day of Greenland: We celebrate The National Day of Greenland in a lively and colourful manner. Come join. The program will be published on www.sumut.dk.

Greenlandic dining Every Tuesday from 12-14 Greenlandic lunch is served at The Greenlandic House at a price of 75 DKK. You can find the menu on www. sumut.dk 2. marts 16-17:30 Mød Johan Lund Olsen: Åben dialog/borgermøde med det grønlandske folketingsmedlem for IA Johan Lund Olsen.

March 2nd at 4-5:30 pm Meet Johan Lund Olsen (IA): Open dialogue with the Greenlandic member of the Danish Parliament Johan Lund Olsen. 21. - 22. marts kl. 11-17 Grønlandsk forårsmarked: Kom i forårstemning til stort forårsmarked med 20 stande og alt fra genbrugstøj til sælskindsprodukter og håndledsvarmere.

26. april kl. 16 Kirkekoncert: Operasangerne Ida Heinrich og Josef Josefsen samt pianist Jim Milne i Christians Kirken på Christianshavn. De blev kendt for jule-cd’en »Nuanneraqaara«. De optræder med kendte grønlandske sange og salmer. April 26 at 4 pm th

Church concert: Concert in Christians Kirke at Christianshavn with opera singers Ida Heinrich and Josef Josefsen with pianist Jim Milne. They are well known for their Christmas CD »Nuanneraqaara«. They will perform famous Greenlandic songs and hymns.

21. juni Grønlands Nationaldag: Vi fejrer Grønlands Nationaldag med fest og farver. Kom og vær med. Programmet offentliggøres på www.sumut.dk.

Udstillingerne holder åbent: Mandag til torsdag fra kl. 10 – 17 og fredag fra 10 – 16. Exhibition opening hours: Monday – Thursday from 10 am to 5 pm and Friday from 10 am to 4 pm Der offentliggøres desuden løbende arrangementer på www.sumut.dk Besides the already announced events, we regularly publish events on our website www.sumut.dk

Løvstræde 6 Postbox 1042 DK - 1007 Copenhagen K Tel: 33 381 570

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foto / Photo: toke brødsgaard

erhverv / business

50 år med S-61

helikopterne i Grønland Selvom S-61 helikopteren til april 2015 har været i Grønland 50 år, er den ikke gået på pension. Tidligere fløj de med passagerer, fragt og post. Nu anvendes de udelukkende som redningshelikoptere. Tekst: Toke Brødsgaard & greenland today

Grønland har en meget stor geografisk spredning af byer og bygder, men da Grønlandsfly i april 1965 indsatte den første Sikorsky-61 helikopter, blev det pludselig nemmere at bevæge sig rundt i landet. Faktisk var Grønland det første land i verden, der benyttede helikoptere til personbefordring over længere distancer i øde områder. Indtil da havde man sejlet eller fløjet med små propeldrevne Catalina vandfly, der var meget vejrfølsomme. I 1962 skete en ulykke med et Catalina fly, og i 1964 bestilte man derfor tre af de imponerende S-61ere hos United Aircraft International, en investering på 25 mill. kr. 16

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Helikopterne blev indsat i fast rutetrafik med Godthåb (Nuuk) som base. Dengang brugte man stadig danske bynavne som et levn fra kolonitiden. Fra hovedstaden og nordgående var ruten således Sukkertoppen (Maniitsoq) – Holsteinsborg (Sisimiut) for at slutte i Egedesminde (Aasiaat). Sydover var ruten Frederikshåb (Paamiut) – Julianehåb (Qaqortoq) til Narsarssuak (Narsarsuaq). Der blev også fløjet regelmæssigt til Sdr. Strømfjord (Kangerlussuaq), hvor SAS havde flyvninger til København. Senere anlagde man helikopterlandingspladser ved Nanortalik, Narsaq, Jakobshavn (Ilulissat), Christianshåb

(Qasigiannguit) og Godhavn (Qeqertarsuaq), Umanak (Uummannaq) og Upernavik. Øget sikkerhed Der var en række gode grunde til, hvorfor valget faldt netop på S-61erne. Den vigtigste af dem var sikkerheden i, at der var to motorer, og at helikopteren kunne flyve med kun en motor. Desuden kunne helikopteren flyde med sine pontoner i tilfælde af nødlanding på vand. Glæden var stor, da Grønlandsfly den 10. april 1965 for første gang landede i Nuuk. Halvdelen af Nuuks befolkning var mødt op, da den første af de nye Sikorsky-helikoptere OY-HAF landede

på heliporten ved vandsøen i Nuuk i strålende vejr. OY-HAF er stadig i luften i dag, sammen med OY-HAG. Ved S-61ernes 25 års jubilæum i 1990 regnede man ud, at de ture, S-61erne havde tilbagelagt i Grønland, svarede til 65 ture til månen. Dvs. at de på det tidspunkt havde tilbagelagt godt 25 mill. kilometer rute-, ambulance-, rednings- og charterflyvning overalt i Grønland med mere end 1 mill. passagerer. Da S-61erne skulle beflyve hele den grønlandske vestkyst, besluttede man i Den Kongelige Grønlandske Handel (KGH), der dengang var medejer af Grønlandsfly, at al husholdningspetroleum i de


Verdens største S-61er flåde Op gennem 1960erne og starten af 1970erne blev der indkøbt flere S-61ere, og på et tidspunkt opererede Grønlandsfly otte S-61ere i flåden. Det betød, at Grønland dengang havde verdens største civile S-61 helikopterflåde til almindelig rutetrafik. S-61eren blev et symbol og en del af udviklingen gennem en meget vigtig periode i Grønlands nyere historie. Folk fik muligheden for at besøge familie i andre dele af Grønland, og de stærke helikoptere fløj masser af fragt og post året rundt til steder, der før kun blev forsynet med skib om sommeren, hvilket kom store dele af befolkningen til gode. Anderledes opgaver Gennem årene har S-61 løst mange anderledes transportopgaver. Ved det årlige hundeslædevædeløb i Diskobugten var det et større arbejde at beklæde hele helikopteren indvendigt med plastik. Derefter surre fem slæder fast til gulvet i helikopteren og hjælpe hundene ind. Op til 76 hunde i alt har der været sammen med de fem slædekuske.

Af anderledes S-61 opgaver kan også nævnes, at den har løftet (slinget) 22 splinternye biler to timer ind på indlandsisen, hvor de skulle testkøres i fred for nysgerrige fotografer og konkurrenter. Det tog flere dage, og bilerne skulle efterfølgende slinges ud igen. S-61eren i dag I dag indgår S-61eren i SARberedskabet (Search and Rescue/red) og er klar til at rykke ud fra Kangerlussuaq, hvor piloterne sidder stand by. Det er derfor ikke længere hver dag, S-61 er ude at flyve. Med de høje driftsomkostninger, der er forbundet med at holde de gode gamle maskiner i luften, går der nok ikke mange år, før S-61eren

foto / Photo: søren lund

foto / Photo: air greenland

grønlandske hjem skulle være af et bestemt mærke, som man var sikker på S-61eren kunne flyve på. På den måde sikrede man sig, at der altid ville være brændstof, hvis helikopteren var nødt til at mellemlande uanset byens eller bygdens størrelse.

Fakta og www Air Greenland markerer 50 års jubilæet i weekenden d. 18. og 19. april. Airgreenland.com

har fløjet sin sidste tur i Grønland. Det bliver et vemodigt farvel, ligesom det var det i

2012, hvor S-61eren for sidste gang fløj rutetrafik med passagerer.

DISCOVER THE SECRET GEM OF GREENLAND OPLEV GRØNLANDS HEMMELIGE PERLE

BOOK AT AUL.GL 23 2015

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erhverv / business

Facts & www Air Greenland will be marking the 50th anniversary during the weekend of April 18th-19th. Airgreenland.com

S-61 første ankomst i Nuuk 10. april 1965

50 years with S-61

helicopters in Greenland In April 2015 the S-61 helicopters can celebrate 50 years in Greenland – but they have not retired. Previously they flew with passengers, cargo and mail. Now, they are used solely as rescue helicopters. Text: Toke Brødsgaard & greenland today

ler-driven Catalina flying boats which were very weather-sensitive. In 1962 there was an accident with a Catalina flying boat, so in 1964 three of the impressive S-61s were ordered from United Aircraft International – an investment of DKK 25m. The helicopters were based in Godthåb (Nuuk) where they were used for scheduled flights. In those days the Danish names were used for towns – a colonial legacy.

Narsaq, Jakobshavn (Ilulissat), Christianshåb (Qasigiannguit) and Godhavn (Qeqertarsuaq), Umanak (Uummannaq) and Upernavik.

From the capital and northwards the route was Sukkertoppen (Maniitsoq) – Holsteinsborg (Sisimiut) ending in Egedesminde (Aasiaat). Southwards, the route was Frederikshåb (Paamiut) – Julianehåb (Qaqortoq) to Narsarssuak (Narsarsuaq). There were also regular flights to Sdr. Strømfjord (Kangerlussuaq) from where SAS had flights to Copenhagen. Later, helicopter landing sites were built in Nanortalik,

foto / Photo: air greenland

Greenland’s towns and villages are geographically widely spread, but in April 1965 when Greenlandair introduced the first Sikorsky-61 helicopter it suddenly became easier to move around the country. In fact, Greenland was the first country in the world to use helicopters to carry passengers over longer distances in remote regions. Until then, passengers had travelled by boat or had flown in small, propel-

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Increased safety There were several good reasons to choose the S-61s. The most important of these was the security of having two engines, since the helicopter was able to fly on one engine alone. Furthermore, the helicopter could float on its pontoons if it had to make an emergency landing on water. The joy was great on April 10th 1965 when Greenlandair landed for the first time in Nuuk. Half the population of Nuuk was there when the first of the new Sikorsky helicopters, OY-HAF, landed at the heliport by the water reservoir in Nuuk in brilliant weather. OY-HAF is still flying today, as is OY-HAG. At the 25th anniversary of the S-61s in 1990 it was calculated that the kilometres flown by the S-61s corresponded to 65 trips to the moon. At that time, they had flown more than 25 million kilometres of


foto / Photo: toke brødsgaard

scheduled flights, ambulance flights, rescue missions and charter flights all over Greenland, carrying more than one million passengers. Since the S-61s were to fly along the entire west coast of Greenland, the Kongelige Grønlandske Handel (KGH – Royal Greenland Trading Company) who back then was co-owner of Greenlandair, decided that all household petroleum used in homes in Greenland should be of a specific type to ensure that it could also be used by the S-61s. In this way, they made sure that there would always be fuel for a helicopter that was forced to make a stopover, regardless of the size of the town or village.

The S-61s became a symbol and a part of the progress that was taking place during a very important period in Greenland’s recent history. People got an opportunity to visit family in other parts of Greenland and the powerful helicopters flew with a lot of cargo and mail all through the year to places that previously had only received supplies by ship in the summer and this benefited a large part of the population. Special tasks Over the years, the S-61 has carried out many special

tasks. At the annual dog sled race in Disko Bay, it was hard work covering the inside of the helicopter in plastic, then securing the five sleds to the floor of the helicopter and helping the dogs in. At one time, there were up to 76 dogs together with five mushers. Other special tasks carried out by the S-61 included lifting (slinging) 22 factorynew cars for two hours to the ice sheet to be test-driven out of the sight of inquisitive photographers and competitors. It took several days and the cars had to be lifted out again afterwards.

The S-61 today Today, the S-61 is part of the SAR preparedness (Search & Rescue/Ed.) and is ready to take off from Kangerlussuaq, where the pilots are on stand-by. Thus the S-61s do not fly every day. The running costs connected with keeping these fine old aircraft in the air are very high, so it will probably not be long before the S-61 flies for the last time in Greenland. It will be a sad goodbye, just as it was in 2012, when the S-61 flew its last scheduled flight with passengers.

foto / Photo: toke brødsgaard

The world’s largest fleet of S-61s More S-61s were acquired up through the 1960s and at the start of the 1970s and at one point, Greenlandair had a fleet of eight S-61s in operation. This meant that Greenland had the largest civilian S-61 helicopter fleet in the world operating scheduled flights. 23 2015

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erhverv / business

Ladies Circle i Nuuk Som det fremgår, er LC en farverig klub. Her i 18 minus grader. LC is a colourful club - here in minus 18 degrees.ª

Ladies Circle (LC) var oprindelig koner til mænd i netværket Round Table, men sådan er det ikke i dag, forklarer de syv friske kvinder, der er mødt op for at fortælle om LC en søndag eftermiddag i Nuuk. De er alle i job, men der er ingen krav om, hvad man beskæftiger sig med, forklarer de. Det vigtigste er, at man har noget at byde ind med i netværket, så alle deltagende får noget ud af det. Det

sikres blandt andet ved, at man på skift skal fortælle om arbejdet og emner, man interesserer sig for. Starten i Nuuk En af de fremmødte er Aase Nygaard, der kom til Nuuk som nyuddannet sygeplejerske for snart 50 år siden og var med til at starte LC i Nuuk. - I 1978 var Stephen Heilmann formand for Round Table (RT) i Nuuk. Sammen

Det fine logo inspireret af den grønlandske nationaldragts mønstre er designet af Najaaraq Kathrine Schmidt. The fine logo, inspired by the patterns in the Greenlandic national costume, was designed by Najaaraq Kathrine Schmidt. 20

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med sin kone Hanne indkaldte de alle RT medlemmernes koner for at starte LC Nuuk, fortæller Aase Nygaard, der selv var gift med et RT medlem. - Som sygeplejerske lavede jeg ikke andet end at snakke med damer hele dagen, så jeg troede ikke LC var noget for mig, men jeg gik derfra som nyvalgt sekretær. Lil-Ann Egede gjorde en stor indsats, og den 11. april 1979 startede vi med ca. 16 piger. - Der var stor interesse dengang, når der skete noget i byen. Vi holdt jo virkelig sammen i klubben, og jeg fik utroligt meget ud af LC. Blandt andet har jeg lært at arrangere store events og har brugt det siden. Aase stoppede først i 1990, hvor Nuuk var vært for LCs internationale konference (LCI) med 280 deltagere i Nuuk.

- Vi fik over 200.000 kr. i overskud, som vi gav til skiliften og børnehjemmet, husker hun. - Desuden gav LC mig også et kammeratskab ud over alle grænser, som holder den dag i dag. Historie Ideen med LC er primært netværk, udvikling og at yde noget som f.eks. velgørenhed. Gennem LC har man mulighed for virksomhedsbesøg, foredrag, debat og snak om personlige emner i et lukket forum. En del af setup’et er en fast dagsorden, der skal følges, som bl.a. sikrer læring ved, at der hver gang tages nye emner op. Ladies Circle har intet politisk eller religiøst tilholdssted. Foreningens grundsten er respekt, venskab, tillid, ærlighed, positivitet og næstekærlighed.


Laila Bagge: Vi har haft nogle internationale projekter, vi har deltaget i med forbedring af hospitaler. Masser af lokale projekter, vi købte en båd til Meeqat Iluat. Med fra 1985 til 2000. Lærte meget af det, bl.a. at snakke foran en forsamling. Det har været givtigt. Kan sikkert være lidt hårdt for nye i starten, men det er jo en del af det, man lærer. Man har en »tante«, der hjælper en ind.

Aase Nygaard var med til at starte LC i Nuuk i 1979. Aase Nygaard helped to start LC in Nuuk in 1979.

We have taken part in international projects where we worked to improve hospitals, says Laila Bagge. There have been plenty of local projects: we bought a boat for Meeqat Iluat. I was a member from 1985 to 2000 and I learned a lot, for example public speaking. It was very beneficial. It is probably a bit hard for new members in the beginning, but that is just part of the learning curve. You have an »aunt« who helps you in.

Det internationale netværk »Ladies Circle« har også en afdeling i Nuuk. Her holder en gruppe kvinder regelmæssigt et frikvarter fra hverdagen, og gør samtidig en aktiv indsast for at samle ind til flere gode projekter for værdigt trængende. Tekst: greenland today

Siden den første LC-klub så dagens lys i England i 1936, er det gået stærkt med opbygningen i andre lande. I 1949 kom de første klubber til Danmark, som Nuuk er tilknyttet som klub nr. 72. I dag er der over 90 klubber i Danmark og i alt ca. 1000 klubber i 36 lande. Cirkelsnak Tina Chemnitz har været med fra 2010. - Først tænkte jeg, hvad LC mon var for noget. Men i dag er jeg meget glad for netværket. Det er et kvindefrirum, vi har, væk fra mand og børn, smiler hun. - Vi kommer ud og prøver mange forskellige tin, som at snakke med politikere, dykke, prøve en klatrevæg og andre ting, jeg ellers ikke ville have prøvet. Man får god energi af at være med.

- Mange af dem, der er i klubben, er nogle, man ikke ville møde normalt. Jeg holder ud, så længe jeg må. Jeg er også glad for at kunne bidrage gennem al den velgørenhed, vi laver, siger Tina. Her supplerer Britta Keldsen, at den nyligt afholdte velgørenhedsmiddag samlede 160.000 kr. ind. - Hvert år vælges et nationalt serviceprojekt. Fra 2014 til 2016 er pengene dedikeret til den grønlandske forening Nanu Børns børnehus i Sisimiut. - Pengene går til konkrete madprojekter, lejrture, lektiecafeer, uddannelse af børnene ved kurser og projekter m.v. Driften varetages af Nanu Børn i samarbejde med Qeqqata Kommunia (Kommune), forklarer Britta. - Tidligere var vores donationer anonyme, men omtale

af vores arbejde er vigtig af hensyn til vores sponsorer, mener klubbens formand Najaaraq Kathrine Schmidt. Najaaraq fortæller, at hun har lært andre kvinder at kende ude i verden gennem LC. - Vi kommer ud og rejse, og man både udvikler sig og vokser i LC, men har det også rigtig sjovt. LCs motto er jo netop »Venskab og service«. - Ja, man lærer rigtig meget af LC. Men man skal ville det - og turde, runder Britta Keldsen af. Landsmøde i Nuuk Lørdag den 9. maj 2015 er der grønlandsk-dansk landsmøde i Nuuk. - Vi forventer, der kommer omkring 250 mennesker. 220 ladies, og 30 af dem har deres mænd med, fortæller Jeanette Munch.

- Der er arrangeret ture til Kangerlussuaq og Ilulissat før og efter, og foreløbig har 186 købt en tur til Ilulissat. Så vi håber, det kan mærkes både i turismeerhvervet og på hoteller og restauranter med flere, siger Britta Keldsen. - Vi har arbejdet på arrangementet i et år og har både egen facebook-side, hjemmeside og tilmeldingsside hos Greenland Travel. Allermest håber vi selvfølgelig, at vores gæster får en super oplevelse i Grønland. - Nu glæder vi os bare til at byde folk velkommen til Nuuk i maj, slutter Jeanette Munch.


erhverv / business

Ladies Circle in Nuuk The international network »Ladies Circle« also has a club in Nuuk. Here, women members regularly take a break from every-day life and at the same time they are active fund-raisers for several fine projects for needy. Text: greenland today

Ladies Circle (LC) was originally intended to be for wives of men who were members of the Round Table network, but this is not the case today, explain the seven lively women who have come to talk about LC on this Sunday afternoon in Nuuk. They are all working women, but there are no requirements concerning what kind of work you do, they explain. The most important thing is that you have something to offer the network, so all the members can benefit. Members take turns to talk about their work and about their interests. 22

greenland today

23 2015

Starting in Nuuk One of the members here this afternoon is Aase Nygaard, who came to Nuuk as a newly-qualified nurse almost 50 years ago and who helped to start LC in Nuuk. - In 1978 Steffen Heilmann was the chairman of Round Table (RT) in Nuuk. Together with his wife, Hanne, he called on all the wives of RT members to start Ladies Circle Nuuk, says Aase Nygaard, who was also married to an RT member. - As a nurse, I did nothing but talk to women all day long, so I did not think LC was for me, but I went away

as newly-elected secretary. Lil-Ann Egede worked very hard and on April 11th 1979 we started with about 16 girls. - In those days, anything that happened in town was very interesting. We really stuck together in the club and I got a lot out of LC. Among other things, I learned how to arrange big events and I have since used this skill. Aase did not stop until 1990, when Nuuk hosted LC’s international conference (LCI), where 280 members took part. - We made a profit of more than DKK 200,000

which we donated to the ski lift and to the children’s home, she remembers. - Above all, LC also gave me friendships which still endure to this day. History The purpose of LC is primarily networking, development and giving, e.g. to charity. Through LC there is an opportunity for company visits, lectures, debates and discussions of individual topics in a closed forum. Part of the set-up includes a fixed agenda that must be followed, which, among other things, ensures learning through the


Inge Arnkjær, member from 1994 to 2013, has had some good years in LC. - It was fun and educational and we had a lot of good times, she says. - We stayed a long time after the meetings and talked about all sorts of things. Through the LC club I have met many different women with whom I would otherwise not have had any contact. Furthermore, it was a plus learning to stand up and give a talk to an assembly of people, ends Inge.

Inge Arnkjær tidligere medlem fra 1994 til 2013 har haft nogle gode år i LC. - Det har været sjovt og lærerigt, og vi havde mange gode oplevelser, fortæller hun. - Vi sad tit længe efter normal mødetid og snakkede om alt mellem himmel og jord. Gennem LC klubben har jeg også mødt mange forskellige kvinder, man ellers ikke ville have haft kontakt med. Desuden var det et plus, at man lærer at stille sig op foran mange mennesker og tale, slutter Inge.

Four of the members of LC 72 Nuuk wearing congress t-shirts. From left to right we have Jeanette Munch, Britta Keldsen, Najaaraq Kathrine Schmidt and Tina Chemnitz.

Eva Pryds was a member for about 10 years from the beginning of the 80s. - LC provided a good network and gave us friends who we still have around the world. Work-wise it was also positive, because of what we learned in LC and it gave us a network of contacts.

Fire af medlemmerne i LC 72 Nuuk iført landsmøde t-shirts. Fra venstre mod højre ses Jeanette Munch, Britta Keldsen, Najaaraq Kathrine Schmidt og Tina Chemnitz.

Eva Pryds var medlem i ca. 10 år fra begyndelsen af 80erne. - LC gav et godt netværk og venner, vi stadig har, uanset hvor i verden de bor. Også arbejdsmæssigt var det positivt, at man havde lært noget i LC og skabt et kontaktnetværk.

introduction of new topics. Ladies Circle is non-political and non-sectarian. The organization aims to promote respect, friendship, trust, honesty, a positive attitude and charity. After the first LC club was founded in England in 1936, the organization quickly spread to other countries. In 1949, the first clubs came to Denmark and Nuuk is associated to Denmark as club number 72. Today, there are more than 90 clubs in Denmark and a total of more than 1000 clubs in 36 countries. Circle talk Tina Chemnitz has been a member since 2010. - At first, I wondered what LC was all about. But today I really appreciate the network. It is a free space for women, away from the men and children, she smiles.

- We go out and try a wide variety of things, like talking to politicians, diving, climbing walls and other things I would not otherwise have tried. You get good energy. - Many of the club members are not people I would usually get to meet. I will keep going as long as I can. I also like making a contribution through all the charity work we do, says Tina. Britta Keldsen adds here, that the recent charity dinner raised DKK 160.000. - Every year a national service project is selected. From 2014 to 2016 the funds are earmarked for the Greenlandic association Nanu Børn’s house for children in Sisimiut. - The money will be used for specific food projects, camping trips, homework cafés, education of children through courses and projects etc. The work will be undertaken by Nanu Børn in colla-

boration with Qeqqata Municipality, explains Britta. - Previously our donations were anonymous, but publicity about our work is important to our sponsors, says the club’s chairwoman, Najaaraq Kathrine Schmidt. Najaaraq says that she has got to know other women around the world through LC. - You get to travel and you develop and grow in LC, but it has also been a lot a fun. LC’s motto is »Friendship and service«. - You really learn a lot in LC. But you have to want to - and have the courage to, rounds off Britta Keldsen. Congress in Nuuk The Danish Greenland-Denmark annual congress will be held in Nuuk on Saturday, May 9th 2015. - We expect a turn-out of about 250 people. There will

be 220 ladies and 30 of them are bringing their husbands, says Jeanette Munch. - Excursions to Kangerlussuaq and Ilulissat have been arranged both before and after. So far, 186 have bought excursions to Ilulissat and we hope this will have an impact on the tourist industry and on hotels and restaurants and the like, says Britta Keldsen. - We have been working on the event for a year. We are on Facebook and we have our own homepage and a registration page at Greenland Travel. Most of all, we hope our guests have a super time in Greenland. - We are looking forward to welcoming people to Nuuk in May, ends Jeanette Munch.

23 2015

greenland today

23


kunst / art

Kim Whee-Lee i Sydkorea hvor hun drømmer om en dag at besøge Grønland. Kim Whee-Lee from South Korea where she dreams of visiting Greenland one day.

Grønland

som inspiration Tekst: Mads Nordlund

27-årige Kim Whee-Lee fra Goyang-si i Sydkorea har studeret på college of Fine Arts i Seoul med orientalsk maleri som hovedfag. Sidste år stoppede hun med at arbejde for at hellige sig kunsten. - Nu koncentrerer jeg mig om mine malerier og håber at kunne skabe en karriere som maler og professionel illustrator, fortæller Kim Whee-Lee. Malerier Hun forsøger ikke at male naturalistisk, men bruger sin fantasi til at skabe en historie i hvert maleri. - Hvis jeg f.eks. har været ude at rejse, maler jeg nogle billeder inspireret af turen. Folk snakker ofte om, hvilke lande de har besøgt, og hvilke steder de har været. For mig er det vigtigere at udtrykke, hvem jeg rejste 24

greenland today

23 2015

med, og hvad jeg følte de steder, vi var, forklarer hun. Interesse for Grønland Sidste år fortalte en ven hende, at Grønland er utrolig smukt. - Efter at have set mange billeder på Internettet var jeg imponeret af Grønlands natur. Jeg så mange unikke steder, som jeg ikke tror, man kan opleve i andre lande. - Da jeg i forvejen elsker at male landskaber, prøvede jeg at lave min version af forskellige billeder fra Grønland, som jeg forestiller mig det. Siden har jeg fokuseret mere på Grønland end andre lande. - Jeg føler ikke, foto kan vise alt. De er udtryk for en anden persons valg af motiv og vinkel. De fortæller ikke, hvordan det føles at være der selv. Derfor vil jeg rigtig gerne besøge Grønland.


2-day conference with focus on development of the future Greenlandic society and new business opportunities

May 6-7, 2015 Katuaq, Nuuk B2B-event May 5, 2015 Hotel Hans Egede, Nuuk

www.futuregreenland.gl Kalaallit Nunaanni Sulisitsisut Peqatigiiffiat Greenland Business Association Grønlands Arbejdsgiverforening

- Selvom det var tilfældigt, at jeg fik interesse for Grønland, føler jeg nu, at det nærmest er blevet nødvendigt for mig selv at rejse rundt i landet en dag. - Jeg håber også, folk ønsker at rejse til Grønland, efter at have set mine malerier, siger hun. Grønland set udefra Den unge kunstner mener, Grønland er imponerende stort sammenlignet med Sydkorea. - Der er så mange fantastiske steder i Grønland, der

ser helt anderledes ud end i Sydkorea, fortæller hun. - Men jeg tror vi har en ting tilfælles. Vi Sydkoreanere elsker vores land. På kommentarerne på greenland todays facebook side, kan jeg se at grønlænderne også elsker Grønland, slutter Kim Whee-Lee, der nu koncentrerer sig endnu mere om at male imponerende landskaber. Se mere kimwheelee.tumblr.com facebook.com/wheelee. painting

M

emories of Greenland

Bring back

Galleri Roar Christiansen Et unikt udvalg af grønlandsk kunst, litografier, kunsttryk, plakater, akvareller, træsnit, kobberstik, linoliumstryk, postog kunstkort. Se en del af vores udvalg på www.galleri.gl På gensyn i et galleri af en anden verden.

A R T

O F

Gallery Roar Christiansen A unique selection of Greenlandic art, lithographs, prints, posters, watercolours, wood carvings, copper engravings, linocuts, postand art cards. See some of our selection on www.galleri.gl See you in a gallery of another world.

G R E E N L A N D

Tlf +299 32 13 . Fax +299 32 23 93 greenland today 2393 2015 Tuapannguit 8 . Box 348 . 3900 Nuuk e-mail: roar.c.galleri@greennet.gl

25


kunst / art

27-year old Kim Whee-Lee from Goyang-si in South Korea has studied at the College of Fine Arts in Seoul, majoring in oriental painting. Last year she left her job to concentrate on art. - Now I concentrate on my paintings and I hope to make a career as a painter and professional illustrator, says Kim Whee-Lee. Paintings She tries not to paint too naturalistically and she uses her imagination to create a story in every painting. - If I, for instance, have been travelling I paint some pictures which are inspired by my trip. People often talk about which countries they have visited and where they have been. For me, it is more important to express something about who I travelled with and what I felt about the places I visited, she explains.

Greenland as inspiration Text: Mads Nordlund 26

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23 2015

Interested in Greenland Last year, a friend told her that Greenland is incredibly beautiful. - After looking at so many pictures on the internet, I was impressed by Greenland’s nature. I saw many unique places – I don’t think there is anything like them in other countries. - Since I already love to paint landscapes I tried to


Nogen a de b ede de ha nsp e e K m Whee Lee Some o hese p c u es nsp ed K m Whee Lee

paint my own version of different pictures of Greenland as I imagined it. I have since focused more on Greenland than on other countries. - I don’t think photos can show everything. They are en expression of someone else’s choice of motif and angle. They don’t tell you what it is like to be there yourself. This is why I would love to visit Greenland.

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erhverv / business

Anne Nivíka Grødem er født i 1983 i Ilulissat, byen tæt på den nordlige halvkugles mest producerende isbræ, der af UNESCO er erklæret for verdens naturarv. - Min far var nyuddannet lærer, og min mor var gravid med mig, da de ankom til Ilulissat, fortæller Anne Nivíka. - Min far blev hurtigt træt af alle de »kloge« danske lærere, der mente, de skulle revolutionere det grønlandske skolesystem uden at tage hensyn til den grønlandske kultur og mentalitet. - Så efter fire år som lærer besluttede han sig for at fiske på en rejetrawler. Efter yderligere fire år på havet blev han halinspektør i Ilulissat hallen, indtil vi i 1993 flyttede til Danmark. Ikke fordi de var mætte af Grønland, men alene fordi mine forældre ikke havde tillid til skolesystemet, som på det tidspunkt var under stor forandring. - Jeg husker min barndom i Ilulissat som fuldstændig fantastisk! Det var et paradis, hvor man fik lov til at være barn. Jeg var en lille drengepige, som blev slæbt med på jagt og fisketure og kørte hundeslæde og stod på ski efter min fars snescooter for fuld fart ud over isen. - Jeg ønskede allerede dengang, at når jeg en dag skulle have børn – så skulle de have mulighed for at være børn på samme måde som jeg. 28

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Ungdommen i Danmark - At flytte til Danmark var en kæmpe omvæltning for mig. Den verden, jeg kendte, og alle vennerne der jo også fungerede som min familie, var pludselig 4.000 km væk, siger en eftertænksom Anne Nivíka, hvis ungdomstid var præget af sang, musik og masser af sport som svømning, håndbold og badminton. - Jeg vidste, at jeg skulle tilbage til Grønland en dag, det var bare et spørgsmål om, hvornår. I Danmark afsluttede jeg min folkeskole, gymnasiet og sidenhen min finansuddannelse. - Mine ungdomsår i Danmark husker jeg som en periode, hvor jeg var mere voksen end barn. - Dels den udvikling, jeg gennemgik som teenager, men især mine forældres skilsmisse, da jeg var 18, og miljøskiftet ved at flytte til Danmark var af stor betydning og gjorde mig hurtigt voksen. Når jeg ser tilbage, var det en brat afslutning på min barndom! Tilbage til Grønland - I påsken 2005 besøgte jeg Ilulissat, hvor jeg mødte min mand Ove Grødem. Jeg var næsten færdig med min bankuddannelse, og samme sommer, hvor jeg dimitterede, flyttede jeg til Nuuk for at arbejde som privat- og erhvervsrådgiver i Sparbank Vest. To år senere fik vi vores dreng Mads Inuuteq, og tre år efter vores datter Malou Naduk.

- Fritiden bruges sammen med familie og venner og på at lave mad. Madlavning er en stor del af mit liv. Det er noget, jeg har været så heldig at få fra min mor. Hun har arbejdet i køkken i mange år og altid været rigtig god til at lave mad. Jeg kan godt lide at gøre mig umage med det, og det er helt klart noget, jeg har lært af hende. - Herhjemme køber vi stort set aldrig okse- eller svinekød. Vi bruger det, vi selv har fanget og fisket. Jeg kan godt lide rigtig mad af gode råvarer. Jeg er ikke frelst eller fanatisk, men det giver ingen mening for mig at spise dårlige råvarer. Slet ikke, når vi kan fylde fryseren op med grønlandsk kød og fisk. - Om sommeren rejser vi normalt ikke til udlandet. Vi bruger i stedet vores båd og tager ud og fisker eller går på jagt. Ungerne er som regel med, og Mads har allerede været med til at skyde to rensdyr. Malou elsker at samle bær, og dem skal vi også bruge masser af. Det er dejligt, at familien er sammen om at fylde fryseren. Et vendepunkt - En uge efter min datters fødsel var jeg ude for en voldsom bilulykke, som satte hele livet i perspektiv. Jeg slap fra ulykken uden et blåt mærke, men i stedet nogle dybe ar på psyken. Den efterfølgende tid skulle vise sig at være en hård tid for hele familien. Oves far, min svigerfar og børnenes bedstefar,

blev alvorligt syg af kræft og døde desværre alt for tidligt. Familien betyder alt for mig, og det var noget, der påvirkede os alle sammen utroligt meget. Heldigvis har vi stadig svigermor, der bor tæt på os, og hun betyder meget for os alle. Hendes hjem er familiens samlingspunkt, og der er altid kaffe på kanden og tændt for vaffeljernet. - Efter endt barsel med Malou startede jeg i et nyt job som supporter i en bank. Her blev jeg syg af et dårligt indeklima, som var i bygningen på det tidspunkt. Det fik mig helt ned med flaget. Det var simpelthen dråben, der fik bægeret til at flyde over. Jeg blev ramt af angst og fik gentagende angstanfald. Jeg var i en depressionslignende tilstand, som en følelsesløs-robot, der bare udførte mine daglige gøremål uden rigtig at være tilstede. En rigtig hård periode, især med små børn – og det sled på vores lille familie. Heldigvis var min mand en kæmpe støtte og hjalp mig til at komme videre. - Jeg blev klar over, at jeg var nødt til at sadle om og gøre noget andet! Egen klinik - Det fik mig til at fuldføre en drøm om at blive selvstændig. Så i 2010 tog jeg en kosmetologuddannelse og åbnede Nivíka Hudplejeklinik i Nuuk. Det var en gammel pigedrøm, så den lå lige til højrebenet. Heldigvis blev det en succes, og jeg var me-


&illustrator Iværksætter

Anne Nivíka Grødem er en kvinde med mange jern i ilden. Hendes vej til den kunstneriske karriere har ikke været snorlige, men med spændende tegninger på blandt andet postkort og plakater har hun nu fuld fart på Tekst & Foto: Mads Nordlund som illustrator.

get positivt overrasket over den store interesse, der var. - Jeg havde tre rigtig gode år i klinikken. Perioden var en god måde for mig at bruge mine kompetencer. Jeg lærte,

at jeg er iværksætter med stort I, og at jeg er god til at få ideer, strukturere dem og føre dem i mål. - Men selve driften af en klinik var ikke min store driv-

kraft. Så da jeg blev tilbudt et job som projektmedarbejder, sagde jeg ja tak. - I et år arbejdede jeg som projektmedarbejder, sideløbende med klinikken. Jobbet

var lige mig, fordi jeg elsker at udvikle ideer og se dem blive en realitet. Derfor lukkede jeg klinikken og satsede fuldt ud på projektarbejdet. - Det var et stort skridt for 23 2015

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mig. Lige så grænseoverskridende, som det havde været at gå fra fast job i bank til selvstændig klinikindehaver, lige så stort et skridt var det at gå tilbage til at være lønmodtager. - Desværre gik der heller ikke længe, før jeg følte mig bundet på hænder og fødder, og min kreativitet og gejst forsvandt. Det føltes forkert at fortsætte, og derfor sagde jeg op. Kunstneren »By Nivíka« I starten af 2014 stod jeg så uden job og uden nogen plan, men kunne mærke, hvordan jeg fik energien igen. En dag så jeg et hvidt gardin med sorte streger. Det inspirerede mig til at tegne noget lignende, og dagen efter købte jeg tusser og papir. - Inden da havde jeg aldrig udfordret de kunstneriske evner på den måde og aldrig forestillet mig, at jeg i dag skulle leve af det. Min mor er meget kreativ og har tidligere udstillet sine værker i Ilulissat. Så jeg har det bestemt ikke fra fremmede. - Tegningerne udviklede sig, og interessen voksede. Det er gået stærkt, og nu har jeg forhandleraftaler med flere butikker i Grønland og et helt katalog med kort, illustrationer og plakater. - Som kunstner er jeg jo helt ny. Derfor er jeg også i en udvikling, hvor jeg skal finde min stil. I begyndelsen var det meget de sorte enkle streger med et grønlandsk 30

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hint, der dominerede. I dag er min kunst mere bred og farverig. - Min kunst er ikke entydig grønlandsk eller dansk, men nok en blanding af begge kulturer, ligesom mig selv. Jeg får min inspiration alle steder fra, men jeg kan godt lide at bruge den grønlandske kultur på en ny måde. F.eks. at opsætte børnesange på en ny grafisk måde eller tegne motiver, som måske ikke umiddelbart giver en grønlandsk association, men afhænger af modtagerens præferencer. Tegner uden for stregerne - Jeg har altid været meget struktureret, ordentlig og en smule perfektionistisk, og det var nok derfor, jeg oprindelig blev bankdame. Når jeg arbejder med mine tegninger, giver jeg plads til min indre »Pippi« og tillader mig selv at »tegne uden for stregerne«. Det er en befrielse for et struktureret menneske som mig, og jeg er taknemlig for, at jeg har fået mulighed for at bruge den side af mig selv. Den har altid været der, men jeg har ikke givet den plads før nu. Det kan virke helt surrealistisk, fra ikke at have tegnet noget til pludselig at føle, jeg kan tegne alt. - Mange gange har jeg et klart billede af, hvordan mit slutresultat kommer til at se ud. Selvfølgelig udvikler nogle ting sig undervejs, men det ser jeg bare som en gave. - Jeg tegner, fordi jeg

synes, det er sjovt, og fordi jeg ikke kan lade være. Jeg vil ikke begrænse mig til kun at tegne grønlandske motiver. Det er vigtigt for mig, at jeg kan udvikle mig uden at skulle være fastlåst i en ramme. En fremmed dame sagde til mig, at hun var vild med mine tegninger, og at hun synes, det var dejligt at se tegninger, hvor hun kunne genkende det grønlandske uden at blive overfaldet af det. Det er den største kompliment, jeg har fået. Det udtrykker nemlig lige dét, jeg gerne vil med mine tegninger. Iværksætteren Jeg har brug for at udnytte alle mine kompetencer som selvstændig og iværksætter. Både struktur, kreativitet, perfektionisme, sociale kompetencer, osv. Det er tilfredsstillende for mig, når jeg skal bruge min alsidighed i det, jeg laver. - At være selvstændig er en livsstil. Det er svært at skelne imellem job og fritid. Jeg nyder, at jeg kan arbejde om aftenen, og samtidig at jeg ikke skal være ude af døren hver morgen kl. 8. - Jeg føler mig heldig, fordi jeg har muligheden, men det kræver hårdt arbejde. Det kommer ikke af sig selv. Min passion er min drivkraft og at være selvstændig kræver god selvdisciplin, det er vigtigt. - I By Nivíka laver jeg primært kort, illustrationer og plakater. Foruden mine

tegninger arbejder jeg også med egne bogprojekter. Derudover er jeg tilknyttet det grønlandske kvindeblad »Arnanut« som skribent og redaktør indenfor skønhed og mad. - Jeg har for nyligt oprettet »Greenlandic Foodlover« på Facebook og Instagram med inspiration til sund mad med udgangspunkt i de varer, vi har tilgængelige i Grønland. Jeg er meget overrasket over den flotte modtagelse, den har fået. Det viser, at behovet for inspiration til den daglige mad er til stede. - Desuden arbejder jeg som konsulent og hjælper andre iværksættere, butikker m.m. Fremtiden - Jeg ved ikke, hvor jeg er rent kunstnerisk om 10 år, og vil heller ikke vide det. Tidligere i livet havde jeg alt for mange planer og rammer for min fremtid. Det føler jeg, at jeg er sluppet fri af. Nu har jeg fundet en stor glæde ved at slippe den kreative side løs, og jeg har ikke behov for at beslutte nu, hvor det skal ende. - Min drøm er at kunne fortsætte med at leve af mine passioner. At dyrke og udvikle min kunst i nye retninger, lave bøger, rådgive flere iværksættere, holde foredrag og undervise. Ikke mindst ønsker jeg at bidrage til samfundet ved at inspirere andre iværksættere til at tage springet og skabe deres egen arbejdsplads og fremtid.


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Vil du udvikle din virksomhed, men har brug for kapital til at vokse, kan Greenland Venture være det næste naturlige skridt. Vi investerer i veletablerede virksomheder, når vi kan se et sundt forretningsgrundlag, en gennemarbejdet forretningsplan og muligheder for en stærk vækst. Vi går forrest, når det gælder internationale muligheder og samarbejder med internationale virksomheder, der vil investere i Grønlands fremtid, og som vil bidrage til udviklingen i samarbejde med grønlandske virksomheder.

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erhverv / business

Entrepreneur and illustrator Anne Nivíka Grødem is a woman with many tasks. Her path to her artistic career has not been a straight line, but with interesting drawings as postcards and posters, she is now in full speed as an illustrator. Text & Photo: Mads Nordlund

Anne Nivíka Grødem was born in 1983 in Ilulissat, the town near the Northern Hemisphere's most productive glacier, which has been declared a Natural Heritage site by UNESCO. - My father had just graduated from the teachers college, and my mother was pregnant with me when they moved to Ilulissat, Anne Nivíka says. - My father soon got tired of all the »wise« Danish teachers, who felt they had to revolutionize the Greenlandic school system, without regarding the Greenlandic culture and mentality. - So after four years as a teacher, he decided to become a fisherman on a prawn trawler. After four years at sea, he became the manager at the sportshall in Ilulissat 32

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until 1993 when we moved to Denmark. My parents enjoyed living in Greenland, but they did not trust the school system, which at the time was undergoing a significant transformation. - I remember my childhood in Ilulissat as utterly fantastic! It was a paradise where you were allowed to be a child. I was a little tomboy who was dragged along for hunting and fishing trips on dog sleds, and skiing full speed behind my father's snowmobile on the ice. - I decided then, that when I would one day would become a parent myself – that my children should be given the same opportunity to be a child as I was. The youth in Denmark - Moving to Denmark was a

huge change for me. Anne Nivíka, whose youth was full of singing, music and lots of sports like swimming, handball and badminton, says reflectively: The world I knew and all the friends, who of course also were like family to me, were suddenly 4.000 km away. - I knew I was going back to Greenland one day, it was just a matter of when. I finished my elementary school, high school and later my financial education in Denmark. - I recall my youth in Denmark as a period where I was more like an adult than a child. - First, the development I went through as a teenager but especially my parents' divorce when I was 18 and the dramatic change by moving

to Denmark, all had a great impact on me and made me become an adult fast. When I look back, it was an abrupt end to my childhood! Back to Greenland - I visited Ilulissat during Easter in 2005, where I met my husband Ove Grødem. I was almost done with my bank training and graduated that following summer. I moved to Nuuk to work as a private and business advisor in Sparbank Vest right after graduating. Two years later our son, Mads Inuuteq, was born and three years after our daughter, Malou Naduk. - I enjoy spending time with family and friends, and cooking in my spare time. Cooking is a big part of my life. It's something I've been lucky enough to learn from


my mother. She has worked as a cook for many years and has always been an excellent cook. I like to do my best with it, and that is definitely something I learned from her. - We rarely buy beef or pork. We eat what we have hunted and fished ourselves. I really like whole foods. I am not a fanatic, but it doesn't make sense for me to use less healthy ingredients, not when we have a freezer full of Greenlandic meat and fish. - We don't travel abroad during the summer. Instead, we use our boat to go fishing or hunting. Our children usually come along, and Mads has already helped to shoot two reindeer. Malou loves to gather berries, and we really enjoy having lots of berries in our freezer. It is a wonderful feeling that the entire family takes an active part of filling the freezer for the winter. A turning point - I was in a violent car accident a week after the birth of our daughter that put my entire life in perspective. Luckily, I didn't get any bruises from the accident, but it left deep scars on me

psychologically. The following period was a hard time for the entire family. My father in law was seriously ill with cancer and passed away way too early. Family means everything to me, and it was something that affected us all enormously. Fortunately, we still have my mother in-law, who lives close to us, and she means a lot to us. Her home is the family gathering place, and there is always coffee in the pot, and the waffle iron is always on. - I got a new job as a banking advisor after my maternity leave with Malou. Unfortunately I got sick from the poor indoor environment which was in the building at the time. It really wore me down. That was the drop that made the cup run over. I was struck with fear and got repetitive anxiety attacks. I was in a depression-like state, as an unemotional robot who just completed my daily activities without really being present. It was a really tough period, especially with small children – and it affected our little family. Luckily my husband offered huge support and helped me to move on. - I realized that I had to make major changes and do something else!

Private clinic - The difficult situation inspired me to pursue a dream of independence. I studied to be a beautician in 2010 and opened Nivíka Cosmetic Studio in Nuuk. It was an old childhood fantasy, so it was like a dream come true. The studio was a rapid success, and I was very pleasantly surprised by the great interest for it. - I had three really good years in the clinic. This period was a great opportunity for me to use my skills. I learned that I am an entrepreneur with a big E, and that it is easy for me to find ideas, organize them and turn them into reality. - But day to day operations of a clinic was not what I really wanted to do, so I decided to accept an offer to become a project coordinator. - I worked as a project coordinator for one year, along with running the clinic. The job was perfect for me as I love to develop ideas and watch them become a reality. I closed the clinic and focused fully on the job as a project coordinator. - It was a big step for me… Just as scary, as it had been going from a solid job

in banking to opening a clinic, and just as challenging as it was to go back to being an employee. - Unfortunately, it didn't take long before I felt handcuffed, and my creativity and zest disappeared. It didn't feel right to continue, and therefore I resigned. The artist »By Nivíka« - In the beginning of 2014 I was without a job and without any plan, but I could feel that I was regaining energy. One day I saw a white curtain with black lines. It inspired me to draw something similar, and the day after I bought felt-tip pens and paper. - I had never challenged my artistic abilities in that way and never imagined that I would make a living from it. My mother is very creative and has exhibited her work in Ilulissat, so I certainly didn't get it from strangers. - The drawings developed and the interest grew. Things have moved fast, and now I have distribution agreements with several stores in Greenland and a catalog of cards, illustrations, and posters. - As an artist, I am very new. I am therefore still in the process of developing 23 2015

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my style. In the beginning it was black simple lines, with a Greenlandic flair. Today my art is more broad and colourful. - My art is not uniquely Greenlandic or Danish, but probably a mixture of both cultures, like myself. I get my inspirations from everywhere, but I like to use the Greenlandic culture in a new way, for example, setting up children's songs with a new graphic sense, or drawing designs that may not inspire an immediate Greenlandic association but rather, depend on the viewers preferences. Drawing outside the lines - I have always been very structured, orderly, and a bit of a perfectionist, and that was probably why I originally became a banker. When I work with my drawings, I give space to my inner »Pippi«, and allow myself to »draw outside the lines«. It is a relief for a structured human like me, and I am grateful that I have been able to use that side of myself. It 34

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has always been there, but I have not given it the space before now. It probably seems rather surreal that I have gone from drawing nothing to suddenly feeling that I can draw everything. - Many times I have a clear picture of how my end result will look. Of course it takes on a life of its own and develops into something slightly different along the way, but I see that as a gift. - I draw because I love doing it and because I can not help doing it. I will not limit myself to only draw Greenlandic motives. It is important for me that I develop myself without having to be stuck in one specific style. A woman I had never met before recently told me that she loves my drawings and that she thought it was great to see drawings where she could recognize the Greenlandic expression, without having the feeling of having it spoon fed. It's the biggest compliment I have ever received. It expresses exactly what I want to express through my drawings.

Entrepreneur I need to utilize all my skills as an independent and entrepreneur: Structure, creativity, perfectionism, social skills, and so on. It is satisfying for me when I need to use my versatility in what I do. - Being independent is a lifestyle. It is difficult to distinguish between business and leisure. I enjoy that I can work in the evening, and at the same time that I don't have to be out of the door every morning at 8am. - I feel lucky because I have this opportunity, but it requires hard work. It does not come by itself. My passion is my driving force, and being self-employed requires great self-discipline, it's essential. - As »By Nivíka« I primarily create cards, illustrations and posters. I also work on book projects. Additionally, I work for the Greenlandic women's magazine »Arnanut« as a writer and editor on beauty and food. - I have recently created the page »Greenlandic Food Lover« on Facebook and Instagram with inspiration for

healthy food based on the products we have available in Greenland. I am very surprised by the great reception it has received. It appears that the need for inspiration to every day food is large. - I also work as a consultant, helping other entrepreneurs, shops etc. The future - I do not know where I'll be artistically in 10 years, and actually I don't want to know. Earlier in life I had too many plans about my future. I feel like I have let go of that need. I have found great joy in letting the creative flow happen, and I do not have a need to decide now where it should end. - My dream is to be able to continue to live from my passion, to cultivate and develop my art in new directions, make books, advise other entrepreneurs, give lectures, and teach. In the end, I want to contribute to society by inspiring other entrepreneurs to take the steps necessary to create their own jobs and their own future.


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erhverv / business

Urbaniseringen i Grønland Tilflytningen fra mindre steder til de større byer følger samme trend som i resten af verden, men i et langsommere tempo. Måske fordi lukning af bygder er et svært politisk emne, så længe mange af stemmerne findes i bygderne. Tekst: Mads Nordlund, Foto: greenland.com

To byer har den største befolkningstilvækst i Grønland. Hovedstaden Nuuk på vestkysten og byen Tasiilaq på østkysten. Resten af landets byer har også en tilflytning fra bygderne, der alle oplever en langsom affolkning og faldende indbyggertal. Tilflytningen fra land til by er et globalt fænomen, som man enten kan forsøge at modgå politisk eller acceptere som en del af menneskets natur, da vi altid har flyttet efter hvor der var arbejde og dermed føde. I de andre nordatlantiske samfund som Færøerne og Island viser den demografiske udvikling, at tilvæksten i Torshavn og Reykjavik ikke aftager, før ca. halvdelen af landets befolkning bor i hovedstaden. Natur og beton Fra 1960erne og frem blev mange af betonblokkene i Grønlands byer opført 36

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for at centralisere landets befolkning og lukke de urentable bygder. Intentionen var oprindeligt, at alle fik de samme muligheder for blandt andet uddannelse og arbejde, men set i bakspejlet gav det mange problemer. Omvæltningen gik for stærkt, hvilket gav en social slagside. Desuden var det initieret af kolonimagten Danmark og derfor opfattet som et overgreb. Grønlænderne blev ofre, en rolle, der kom til at betyde meget i hjemmestyrepolitikken og forholdet til Danmark efter hjemmestyrets indførelse. I 1968 besluttede Danmarks Folketing og Grønlands Landsråd at nedlægge minebyen Qullissat, og i 1972 blev minen, og dermed byen, endeligt lukket. Den del af befolkningen, som ikke var flyttet frivilligt, blev tvangsforflyttet til andre grønlandske byer, hvilket havde alvorlige sociale kon-

sekvenser for mange af de fraflyttede familier. Byen blev et symbol, og det er ikke tilfældigt, at mange kendte politikere har rødder i Qullissat. Der opstod en slags berøringsangst for emnet bygdelukning, der eksisterer den dag i dag, selvom Selvstyret har taget initiativer til både bygdekonferencer og debatter om emnet. Faktum er, at kun få bygder er lukket i nyere tid, og først længe efter al økonomisk fornuft, som f.eks. Moriusaq, der kostede samfundet over to millioner kr. om året med kun to beboere til sidst. Altså én million kr. pr. beboer, mens der blev sparet på blandt andet skolemad og socialt udsatte andre steder i landet. Soveby’gder I nyere tid har der igen været debat om flere steders berigtigelse, og om der erhvervs-

mæssigt er et bæredygtigt grundlag for at opretholde livet de pågældende steder, hvor hverken butik eller fiskeri kan klare sig uden støtte fra Selvstyret. Sammenligner man med mindre byer i USA og Europa er de tidligere forretninger i de små byer for længst lukket. Her er forskellen selvfølgelig en bedre infrastruktur, der gør det muligt for nogle af de små samfund at være sovebyer, fordi man kan køre til og fra arbejde i de større byer. En mulighed man ikke har I Grønland, hvilket gør det endnu mere sårbart, hvis al støtte en dag skæres væk. Ikke kun mindre bygder, men også større steder som Ittoqqortoormiit på østkysten har været til debat. Selvfølgelig er det hjerteskærende at flytte fra sin slægts gravsteder og det sted, hvor man er vokset op, hvis fremtiden i de større byer er uvis. Men oprindeligt var grønlænderne


Grønlænderne var oprindeligt nomader, der flyttede efter de gode fangstmuligheder, som minimum med en sommer- og vinter boplads.

foto / Photo: grønlandsbanken

Greenlanders were originally nomads, who moved to the areas with good hunting and they had at least a summer camp and a winter settlement.

Da alle bygder er omgivet af Grønlands natur er de alle helt unikke, hvad angår skøn udsigt og placering. Since all the villages are surrounded by nature in Greenland, they are all unique with regard to beautiful views and locations.

et nomadefolk, der tilpassede sig livet i Arktis ved netop at flytte efter de gode fangstmuligheder, som minimum med en sommer- og vinter boplads. Måske er den tidligere omstillingsparathed ikke en nødvendighed, når man ikke selv skal fange føden, og objektivt skal det nævnes, at Ittoqqortoormiit blev etableret af den danske polarforsker Ejnar Mikkelsen i 1925, og Qullissat blev oprettet af den danske stat i 1924 på grund af etablering af en kulmine, og ingen af stederne altså er oprindelige grønlandske. Fremtiden I den seneste valgkamp i 2014 kom flere unge med spændende nye synsvinkler på fremtiden. Blandt andet hvad der er det fælles mål og begrundelse for at bo spredt i Arktis? Hvor det tidligere var overlevelse, er det i dag socialt armod, der er den

største fællesnævner. Noget der ikke alene kan opvejes af snak om en særlig bygdekultur, når resultatet af denne er, at kun få unge er i lære i traditionelle fag som fiskere og fangere, mens over 60% af de unge ikke er i gang med en uddannelse. Den økonomiske debat er reel. Er der noget sparet ved at lukke de små steder og samle folk i større byer, når mange større byer heller ikke har nogle bæredygtige erhverv? Spørgsmålene i Grønland er altså de samme som i resten af verden. Skal man støtte yderområderne? Skal man bruge penge på at holde en gammel kultur kunstigt i live og i mellemtiden acceptere, at fremtiden – en stor del af hver ungdoms generation – aldrig kommer videre?

Urbanization in Greenland People moving from small places to live in larger towns is a worldwide trend, but the pace is slower in Greenland. Perhaps because closing villages and settlements is a thorny political issue, since many voters live there. Text: Mads Nordlund, Photo: greenland.com

Two towns have the highest population growth in Greenland: the capital of Nuuk on the West Coast and the town of Tasiilaq on the East Coast. The rest of the country’s towns are also experiencing an influx of people from the villages, which are all undergoing slow depopulation with falling numbers of inhabitants. Moving from country to town is a global phenomenon which can either be countered politically, or accepted as part of human nature, be-

cause we have always moved to where there was work and therefore food. In other North Atlantic societies such as the Faroe Islands and Iceland, the demographic development has shown that population growth in Torshavn and Reykjavik did not decrease until about half of the country’s population was living in the capital. Nature & concrete From the 1960s and onwards, many of the concrete blocks 23 2015

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Mange af Grønlands bygder er placeret ud fra naturlige havnefaciliteter og fangstmuligheder.

Many of Greenland’s villages are located at natural harbours and near good hunting grounds.

of flats in towns in Greenland were built to centralise the country’s population and to close down uneconomic settlements. The original intention was to give everyone the same opportunity for education and work, but in retrospect this generated many problems. The upheaval took place too quickly, which resulted in social imbalance. Furthermore, it was instigated by the colonial power of Denmark and therefore perceived as an infringement. Greenlanders were the victims, a role that came to have significance for home rule policies and the relationship to Denmark after the introduction of Home Rule. In 1968, Denmark’s parliament and Greenland’s national council decided to close the mining town of Qullissat and in 1972 the mine closed and as a consequence the town was abandoned. Those who had not moved voluntarily were compulsorily relocated to other towns in Greenland and this had serious social consequences for many of these families. The town became a symbol and it is no coincidence that many wellknown politicians have their roots in Qullissat. A reluctance to deal with

the issue of closing down villages grew and it still exists today, despite the fact that the present government has taken initiatives to hold village conferences and debates on the subject. In actual fact, very few villages have been closed in recent times and only long after it stopped making economic sense to keep them going. One example is Moriusaq, which in the end cost society more than DKK 2m each year with only two inhabitants. That is DKK 1m per inhabitant, while elsewhere in the country there were cut backs on school meals and social costs.

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Dormitory towns In recent times, there have again been discussions about the justification of maintaining various settlements and whether there is a commercially sustainable basis to keep inhabiting such places, where neither shops nor the fishing industry can operate without government subsidies. In comparison, the shops in small towns in the USA and Europe closed down a long time ago. Here, the difference lies in a better infrastructure which facilitates the existence of dormitory

towns, because it is possible to drive to and from work in a larger town. This possibility does not exist in Greenland, which means it is even more vulnerable to the removal of all subsidies. Not only small villages, but also larger places like Ittoqqortoormiit on the East Coast have been discussed. It is obviously devastating to move away from the place where you grew up and where your family members are buried, to face an uncertain future in a bigger town. But Greenlanders were originally nomads who adjusted to life in the Arctic by moving to where the hunting was good and they had at least one summer camp and one winter settlement. This former willingness to change may no longer be necessary when you are not required to hunt for your food. And objectively, it should be mentioned that Ittoqqortoormiit was founded by the Danish polar explorer Ejnar Mikkelsen in 1925 and Qullissat was founded by the Danish state in 1924 when a coal mine was opened, so neither of these places are original Greenlandic settlements.

The future In the most recent election campaign in 2014, several young people presented new, interesting views of the future. These included finding common ground and a reason for living spread out over the Arctic. Where it used to be survival, it is now poverty that is the greatest common factor. This is not something that can be offset alone by talk of a special village culture, when this means that only a few are learning a traditional trade such as hunting and fishing and more than sixty per cent of the young people are not getting any kind of higher education. The economic debate is real. Can money be saved by closing the small settlements and gathering people in bigger towns that do not have any sustainable means of income either? The questions in Greenland are the same as they are in the rest of the world. Should the outlying regions be given support? Should money be spent to artificially keep an old culture alive when it means accepting a future where a large part of each generation of young people never gets on?


TiL LandS, TiL VandS Med foRnUfTen Maskinmesterskolen København bygger på en stærk maritim tradition og indgår i partnerskab med førende maritime og industrielle virksomheder – både til lands og til vands. Vi har et stort internationalt netværk og samarbejder med en række udenlandske universiteter, bl.a. Shanghai Maritime University.

Vi fokuserer på høj faglighed, følger den teknologiske udvikling og tilpasser løbende uddannelsen til erhvervslivets behov. Resultatet er maskinmestre, der skaber resultater til lands, til vands og alle andre steder, hvor der er behov for dygtige folk til drift og ledelse af tekniske anlæg.

Læs mere på www.msk.dk

23 2015

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foto / Photo: greenland.com

KULTUR / CULTURE

Eqalugaarsuit dukkede op lige fremme. Føreren af den lille speedbåd pegede gennem plastikforruden ind mod 20-30 småhuse. Der var ikke et menneske at se. Speedbåden rundede en skarp pynt og kom straks i læ i Eqalugaarsuits smalle naturhavn. En ældre fisker tog rødfisk op af en af jollerne for at veje dem. Fiskene var dybfrosne i februarkulden, stive som brædder. Speedbådens fører benyttede lejligheden til at sikre aftensmaden, 40 kroner kiloet. Fra havnen udgjorde et smalt, fasttrampet spor i sneen byens hovedgade gennem blæsten langs den lille røde kirke med søndagsflag og videre forbi bygdekontoret og butikken, begge lukkede. Mellem snedriverne sås spor af traktoren, der til dagligt sikrede passage til bygdens kernefunktioner. Adskillige af de spredte huse stod tomme. En ramponeret rønne midt i bygden stod næsten ikonisk i sit forfald: En smule rød maling holdt endnu stand på gavlen mod vest, men på husets langside havde snefog for længst slebet al spor af farve ned til de bare brædder. Tagpappen lå endnu på taget, men vinduerne var sømmet til, og der var intet spor af mennesker, intet henkastet legetøj, ingen skovle, reb under trappen eller andre spor af det levede liv. Eqalugaarsuit fortalte historien om en bygd, der hurtigt var ved at uddø – ligesom talrige andre udsteder og bygder før var uddøde i Grønland. Eqalugaarsuit osede af stilstand. I lange tider efter at den første pioner, fangeren og fiskeren Eli Dahl, i 1927 slog sig ned i Eqalugaarsuit, gik det ellers fremad. Bygden ekspanderede, især da myndighederne i den første runde af urbanisering og industrialisering lukkede for forsyningerne af olie og butiksvarer til en række mindre udsteder længere mod syd. I perioder boede her mere end 40

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Rosa i Eqalugaarsuit

200 mennesker, og en fiskefabrik skød op yderst på pynten ved havnen. Skolen blev forbedret, og kommunen sendte lærere og sågar en pædagog til en børnehave, så forældrene kunne passe deres arbejde. Senere forsvandt torsken, grundlaget for livet i Eqalugaarsuit eroderede, men tilskuddene fra de offentlige kasser fortsatte. I 2014 holdt knap 60 mennesker stadig stand i Eqalugaarsuit, flere af dem direkte efterkommere af grundlæggeren selv. Tre børn havde deres gang i den lille skole, to på ti år og én på syv. Fem af bygdens ældre mænd fiskede stadig. Alderdomshjemmet havde fire indbyggere. 16 af byens indbyggere hævede pension af den ene eller den anden slags, mens 14 ifølge de lokale levede af løn fra det offentlige: Skolelæreren, Rosa »Kuka« Hansen, og pedellen; bygdebestyreren og hans tre praktiske medhjælpere, inklusive John Abelsen, der kørte traktoren. Så var der bestyreren af bygdens olieforsyning, plejehjemsarbejderen, to socialarbejdere, en sundhedsarbejder, butiksbestyreren og butiksmedhjælperen Gerda Poulsen – alle offentligt ansatte lønmodtagere. Og en kateket. Kirken skulle passes. På et regneark gav bygdens økonomi ingen mening. Skulle en rationel, blind økonomisk kalkule bestemme, ville forsyningerne til Eqalugaarsuit blive neddroslet og til sidst aflyst, og beboerne tilbudt flytning til Qaqortoq eller andre byer. Men det var ikke populært at stille livet sådan op i Grønland, og måske afspejlede kalkulen også en fejlagtig analyse af livets egentlige gang i Eqalugaarsuit. Grønlands historie var fuld af skæbnesvangre forsøg på rationalisere livet for indbyggerne på kysten, og Eqalugaarsuit var som de andre cirka 50 bygder, der stadig fungerede, blevet en central del af kampen om Grønlands sjæl. I Eqalugaarsuit og andre bygder

var forfaldet indlysende og sammenhængskraften hastigt på retur. De unge, de stærke, de velfungerende sivede i en lind strøm til byerne. De blev drevet af politikere og embedsmænd, faldende fiskebestande, drømmen om en uddannelse og almindelig trang til at gå i biffen. Samtidig blev forestillingen om den stolte og frie fanger stadig vigtigere i den politiske debat. Forestillingen om fangerlivet og grønlænderens ihærdige og kløgtige kontrakt med den barske natur var en uundværlig ingrediens i det nationale projekt, som mange investerede kræfter i. Fangeren med hævet fuglespyd og isbjørnebukser gik igen i talrige versioner overalt i Grønland. Eqalugaarsuit indeholdt stadig elementer af denne varmt besungne fortid. Jagten på klapmydser i storisen om foråret, den solidariske fordeling af kød fra sildepiskerne og resten af fangerlivets udfordringer og kvaliteter kendte bygdens beboere udmærket til, og inde i Qaqortoq forbandt journalisten, Kristian »Pablo« Poulsen, lige frem opløsningen af det historiske bygdeliv med den topaktuelle diskussion om forsoning med Danmark og danskerne. Han fortalte om, hvordan bygdernes beboere i århundreder havde overlevet på grund af de faste normer for fordeling af fangsten. Men mønsteret blev nedbrudt, da danskerne kom, mente han: »I hele vores historie har vi opbygget den her store solidaritet med hinanden. Vi passer på, at ingen i bygden lider nød, når der er fangst. Men fordi danskerne ikke forstod den form for solidaritet, så ødelagde de den jo«. Søndag i Eqalugaarsuit Midt i denne kulturkamp kom beboerne i Eqalugaarsuit hviledagen i hu. I et af de første huse efter havnen tog butiksmedhjælper Gerda Poulsen, 47,


og John Abelsen, 64, straks imod. Godt nok viste det sig, at den fremmedes aftale om søndagskaffe var indgået med en anden af byens familier, men da døren nu alligevel var åben, afbrød Gerda klipningen af Johns pandehår. Kaffen kom på kakkelbordet, og mens den store fladskærm viste Vinter-OL i Rusland, satte Gerda Poulsen gæsten ind i sit komplekse familiemønster. Selv havde hun tre børn. Den ene havde tjans som sygehjælper for Eqalugaarsuits pensionister. Den yngste var på skolehjem i Qaqortoq. Faren til den ældste drak og forsvandt. I 2005 fandt hun sammen med John Abelsen, byens traktorfører, der som teenager kom på efterskole i Vejle, så på søfartsskole, hvorefter han sejlede og drak i en årrække, inden han en dag kom hjem til Eqalugaarsuit for at holde jul, blev tørlagt og besluttede aldrig at rejse ud igen. Det sidste var de fælles om. Gerda Poulsen krøllede ansigtet sammen af ubehag, da gæsten lidt brutalt bragte bygdens eventuelle lukning på bane: »Nej da! Her er stadig fisk og sæler, man kan leve af. Fabrikken er lukket, men der svømmer stadig fisk derude«. Dagen efter skulle en helikopter hente hendes syge far til behandling i Qaqortoq, men Eqalugaarsuit var familiens hjemsted. Et spørgsmål om Grønlands eventuelle løsrivelse fra rigsfællesskabet fik Gerda Poulsen til langsomt at dreje øjnene mod Vinter-OL, og en længere tavs pause indfandt sig. Politikere fra Nuuk havde ikke i nyere tid lagt vejen om ad Eqalugaarsuit, og borgmesteren fra Qaqortoq, der ind imellem kom sejlede om sommeren, kom altid i arbejdstiden, hvor hun havde travlt i butikken. Hun fortalte om en glad skoletid i Eqalugaarsuit, hvor der var mere end én time-lærer på skolen, men hun

mente ikke noget om uafhængighed. John Abelsen mente, at uafhængighed kunne være udmærket, men næppe aktuel i overskuelig fremtid. Igen opstod en længere pause. Og en til. Til sidst formulerede John Abelsen et blødt ekko af Kristian »Pablo« Poulsens analyse: »Vores kultur er meget anderledes end danskernes. Her i bygden er der ikke ret mange mennesker, og vi hjælper hinanden«. Gerda Poulsen beholdt hænderne i skødet, men hun ville gerne have skrevet ned, at det stadig var godt at bo i Eqalugaarsuit. 20 års undersøgelser Sådan mente en del bygdebeboere op og ned af kysten. En af underviserne på den arktiske ingeniøruddannelse i Sisimiut, Kåre Hendriksen, offentliggjorde i 2013 resultatet af sine talrige ophold i de grønlandske bygder igennem mere end to årtier. Han var formentlig den første akademiker, der kunne prale af at have opholdt sig i mere end tre fjerdedele af bygderne – ofte i længere tid – og han havde undervejs indsamlet massive mængder af data om den lokale økonomi og mere end 130 interview med bygdeboere af alle slags. Selv havde han undervejs fået ny forståelse af, hvorfor de små bygder måske alligevel gav god mening, skrev han: »Jeg kendte udmærket følelsen af – hvad lever de dog af her? Men den følelse var ikke mere knyttet til bygd end til by«. Han skrev om sine år med familien i byerne Aasiaat og Qeqertarsuaq i 1990erne: »Det var den stående joke blandt venner og kolleger, at her lever vi af at klippe hinanden, og for en række af landets byer er det vanskeligt at pege på andet erhvervsgrundlag end administration, undervisning, sundhedsvæsen og så de afledte effekter

af byens drift som butikker, elværk, bygge- og anlægsarbejder m.v.«. Kåre Hendriksen skrev om den pengeløse fordeling af fisk og fangst i bygderne, der efter hans mening var stærkt undervurderet. Han fandt fattige bygder med ringe fremtidsudsigter, men også velfungerende og voksende bygder. Han så på de fattigste af bygdeboerne og fandt ud af, at de offentlige udgifter til de fattige inde i byerne generelt var højere. Bygderne kunne glæde sig over det uregistrerede fiskeri og fangst og havde generelt mindre søgning på de offentlige kasser. Kaare Hendriksen fandt, at byfolket bidrog langt mere til det kroniske underskud på Grønlands handelsbalance, fordi det var dem, der konsumerede hovedparten af alle de importerede varer. På den måde bidrog Kåre Hendriksen også til debatten om Grønlands løsrivelse. Da hans ph.d. udkom, var det en udbredt tanke, at flytning af Rosa »Kuka« Hansen og andre borgere fra fattige bygder til byerne ville bringe store besparelser, styrke Grønlands økonomi og dermed fremrykke dagen, hvor grønlænderne kunne erklære sig uafhængige. Kåre Hendriksen rystede godt op i den tanke. Han mente ikke, at centralisering i byerne automatisk ville spare penge eller skabe større økonomisk dynamik i byerne. De grønlandske byer ville under alle omstændigheder stadig være ganske små. Samtidig slog han fast, at mange af indbyggerne i bygderne følte ikke at blive hørt. Hver gang jeg refererede til rapporter og redegørelser, der vedrører bygdernes situation, stod folk uforstående. Dem havde de ikke kendskab til, og når vi gik i detaljer med indholdet, blev folk ofte direkte ophidsede eller hovedrystende, fordi de ikke kunne genkende de forhold, der blev beskre23 2015

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vet om deres bygd. Han refererede et udbrud fra en kvinde i en lille bygd: »Vi er ikke fattige – se dig rundt«. Flugten fra Eqalugaarsuit I Eqalugaarsuit hylede vinden med nye kræfter. Flaget ved kirken stod som malet på himlen, og nye dynger af fygesne hobede sig op. Oppe i forrummet uden for Rosa »Kuka« Hansen og hendes mand, Aqisiiviq Hansens, hus stod en spand med en lille rest saltet vågehval. Aqisiiviq Hansen hørte til de stadigt aktive fiskere og fangere i byen, og selvom økonomien kun hang sammen, fordi Rosa »Kuka« Hansen fik løn for at passe skolens tre børn, følte han intens ulyst ved tanken om at flytte ind til byen. Et par dage forinden havde han og en af de andre fiskere hentet 200 kilo rødfisk med garn, men han vidste godt, at den yngre generation ikke stod i kø for at overtage jollen: »De unge bryder sig ikke længere om det. De har vænnet sig fra det barske liv her«. Han sagde det uden bitterhed. To teenagepiger på weekendbesøg fra Qaqortoq løb rundt i huset. Deres forældre var spredt for alle vinde, Qaqortoq, Nuuk, Sisimiut og København og intet tydede på, at flugten fra Eqalugaarsuit ville vende; kontrasterne til det moderne liv i byerne var blevet for store, mere end 84 procent af befolkningen var nu byboere. Mens Rosa »Kuka«, Aqissiviq Hansen, Gerda Poulsen og John Abelsen så vinter-OL i Eqalugaarsuit hang Nuuks hippe ungdom ud på trendy webcaféer iklædt hovedtelefoner og Canada Goose-jakker med krave af ægte skind. Her drak de økologisk solbærsaft til 31 kroner per flaske, mens fangerkulturen blev hyldet som fotokunst på væggen, elegant ophængt i rammer af rustikke brædder, fotohjørner af sælskind og oplyst af spotlights på skinner. I Katuaq, 42

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hovedstadens kulturhus, købte moderne børnefamilier grønlandske tapas til 145 kroner per næse, de søgte vellønnede job og købte ind i Brugseni og i Pisiffik, hvor flyfriske blomster konkurrerede med ananas på tilbud – og tre pakker svinekød. Aqissiviq Hansens jollefiskeri var ikke på mode, og frygten for et fortsat kulturtab var hot stuff i medierne, den stod på den politiske dagsorden – og den var langt fra ny. Tilskuere i deres eget land De to forskere Bo Wagner Sørensen og Søren Forchhammer samlede i 2012 en række udsagn fra danskere, der gennem tiden havde bekymret sig over grønlændernes ryk mod byerne. Missionæren Carl Emil Jansen skrev allerede i 1847 om den bedrøvelige menighed, der mødte ham i hovedstaden Godthåb; begrædeligt civiliseret, mente han, i sammenligning med hans egen stolte og langt mere farveægte menighed længere nordpå: »Den mangler det nationale ejendommelige Præg, som jeg er vant til«, skrev han. »De bor i halvdanske huse, gaar halvdanske klædte, driver ingen Fangst, Jagt og Fiskeri og fører saaledes et normeret, ordentligt, halvciviliseret Liv«. Han efterlyste »den frie, selvstændige og dygtige Grønlænder, der på sin ejendommelige nationale Maade betvinger det vilde Hav og dets Beboere og jager Fjeldets Rener. Det klæder Nationen bedre, en saadan Mand interesserer mig mere end den, der har solgt sin Frihed for noget brød«. Tabet af den oprindelige fangertilværelse gik igen i årtierne efter, også blandt grønlandske observatører. I 1994 skrev Tove Søvndahl Petersen, der senere blev leder af Grønlands Repræsentation i Danmark, om det store samfundsprojekt fra 1960erne, hvor koncentrationen om fiskefabrikkerne i

de større byer tog fart: »Det trygge og velkendte bygdeliv blev erstattet med et fuldstændigt fremmed liv i byerne, og mange mennesker fandt pludselig sig selv boende i kæmpe boligblokke fyldt med en masse totalt fremmede mennesker«. Den sociale deroute lå lige for: »Der gik ikke lang tid, før folk begyndte at drikke som en effektiv måde at undslippe den moderne verdens stress… Næsten fra den ene dag til den anden mistede det grønlandske folk sin kultur og identitet, og grønlænderne blev tilskuere i deres eget land«. Opfattelsen af grønlænderen som ufrivillig tilskuer til sit eget liv blev en del af historien. Kalistat Lund brugte den som skræmmebillede i Narsaq; det lå i luften, at noget udefra havde trukket tilskuerrollen ned over grønlænderne, og nu gjaldt det om at forsvare sig, eller i det mindste forsone sig. Tilbage til fremtiden I Eqalugaarsuit forsvarede Rosa »Kuka« og Aqissiviq Hansen bare deres egen bygd. De mente ikke, at det ville være spor rationelt at nedlægge Eqalugaarsuit. Som Aqissiviq Hansen sagde: »Inde i byen er de jo også arbejdsløse og pensionister. Her har vi vores hus. Hvis vi flytter til Qaqortoq, skal vi betale meget mere i husleje, og i øvrigt er der boligmangel inde i byen«. Uden for vinduet føg snemasserne nu vandret gennem bygden. Husets beboere flød mageligt ud i den grå sofa med Se & Hør og fjernbetjeningen. Rosa »Kuka« Hansen hæklede en serviet, måske et match til den hæklede lampeskærm over sofabordet. Striber af korsstingsbroderier og familiefoto konkurrerede om vægpladsen. Et mægtigt farvefoto af en årgang fra Faxe Efterskole hang over sofaen med et af Aqissiviq Hansens smilende børnebørn i


midten. Et øjebliks forvirring opstod. Fra fjernsynets højtalere lød den tidligere landsstyreformand Kuupik Kleists stemme på grønlandsk, som om den kendte politiker kommenterede skiløb. Stor munterhed i sofaen. Gæsten fik forklaret, at radioen – som normalt i Grønland – var indstillet på udsendelserne fra KNR i Nuuk, mens TV-billeder fra DR fik lov at løbe lydløse over fladskærmen, fordi ingen alligevel forstod, hvad der blev sagt. Kuupik Kleist diskuterede Grønlands fremtid med finansminister, Vittus Qujaukitsoq, men Rosa »Kuka« og Aqissiviq Hansen slukkede. Ingen hørte alligevel efter. De to reagerede på spørgsmålet om Grønlands uafhængighed på samme måde som Gerda Poulsen og John Abelsen nede ved havnen. Først en lang pause. Så mente Aqissiviq Hansen, at sagen nok først ville blive aktuel om mange år. Rosa »Kuka« Hansen havde ingen kommentarer. Det var tid at sejle retur til Qaqortoq, Sydgrønlands hovedstad – trods blæsten. Kulunnguaq Poulsen, der var Rosa »Kuka« Hansens søsters barnebarn, ville gerne have et lift med speedbåden tilbage til byen. Hun gik i 3.g på gymnasiet og havde sejlet til Eqalugaarsuit på weekendophold mange gange. Undervejs i bølgerne forklarede hun i korte råb, at hun ikke havde faste planer for fremtiden. Én ting stod dog klart. Hun skulle ikke bo i Eqalugaarsuit.

Om forfatteren Martin Breum er dansk journalist og forfatter til bogen »Balladen om Grønland« om forholdet mellem Danmark og Grønland (Gyldendal 2014). Teksten her er et redigeret uddrag fra bogen, der udkommer som gratis e-bog på engelsk på www.fak.dk i foråret 2015.

Rosa from Eqalugaarsuit Eqalugaarsuit slowly appears in the horizon. The driver of the speedboat points through the plastic windscreen towards 20-30 houses. The boat makes its way around the point and we are in Eqalugaarsuit’s tiny narrow, calm natural harbor. An elderly fisherman is busy pulling atlantic redfish out of a small boat and weighing them. The fish were frozen due to the cold temperatures in February, stiff as wood. The driver of the speedboat uses the opportunity to buy a couple for dinner at DKK 40 per kilo. A narrow path in the deep snow winds up from the harbour to the town, functioning as the main street, the track passes the little red church, the settlement’s administrative office and a small store. Both are closed as it is Sunday. In between snow drifts, tracks from a tractor that clears the path every day, are visible making a path to the essential buildings in the village. Several of the houses are empty. On one of the houses only a few streaks of red paint is left on one side, and rough weather have erased all colour from the rest of the house and left only bare boards. The roofing is still securely fastened, but the windows have been nailed shut, and there’s no sign of life: no abandoned toys, no shovels, nothing stored under the stairs. Eqalugaarsuit appears to be on its last legs and declining rapidly, just like so many other villages in Greenland. Much

in Eqalugaarsuit has ground to a halt, but it wasn’t always so. After Eli Dahl, a pioneer, hunter and fisherman, settled here in 1927, the community enjoyed a measure of prosperity. The settlement expanded, helped along by the government decision to strangle supplies to a handful of even smaller settlements further south as part of the initial phases of the urbanization and industrialization in Greenland. At one time, over 200 people lived here, and there was a fish-processing plant out on the point. The school was renovated and the municipal council send teachers so the parents could go to work. After a while, though, the codfish disappeared, and with them Eqalugaarsuit’s prosperity. Some financial support still flows from the government, but the population is down to 60. The school has three students: two 10 years olds and the third 7. Five of the town’s elderly men still fish. Four people live in the senior-citizens’ home, and 16 are pensioners, either from old-age or disability. Another 14 are public employees in some way or another: Rosa »Kuka« Hansen, the school teacher; the janitor, the village administrator, his three assistants; John Abelsen, the tractor driver; the oil supply manager, the woman who works at the senior-citizens’ home, two social workers, a health-care worker, the store manager and his helper, Gerda Poulsen. All of them are public 23 2015

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foto / Photo: Anedorthe Silassen

KULTUR / CULTURE


foto / Photo: Nukaaraq Kristine Poulsen

employees, not necessarily full time but earning an income as is the church caretaker. In Greenland, there is always someone to keep the church open. From a standard economical point of view there are no good arguments why Eqalugaarsuit should continue to exist. Rational economical thinking would dictate gradually cutting off supplies and then eventually a closure of the place. The residents would move to Qaqortoq or other towns. But it’s not popular to look at life that way in Greenland, and looking at a village like Eqalugaarsuit from a mainstream economic perspective might not give you the whole story either. Greenlandic history is replete with stories about what happens when the authorities try to ‘rationalize’ life for the people of Greenland’s villages. Eqalugaarsuit isn’t unlike the 50 other villages where people still live and they have now become a central issue in the fight for Greenland’s soul. The physical and social decay in many places are impossible to hide. The young, the skilled, those with direction in life, often leave for larger towns, encouraged to do so by politicians in Nuuk, and at the same time the decline of fish, the dream of education or just the ordinary draw of just a little bit of action. Also, as the villages decline, the myth of the hunter, free to live as he wish, has risen as an increasingly essential element of the political debate. The myth of the hunter, and of Greenland’s persistent, wise relationship with the harsh environment is a key element of the national project, that many invested in. The painting of a hunter with his spear raised as he attacks, dressed in polar-bear pants, can be found in countless versions throughout Greenland. Eqalugaarsuit still retains remnants of 44

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this historic but distant past. The hunt for seals out on the ice each spring, sharing whale meat with the clan and all of the other characteristics of the life of the hunter are well known to people here and for Kristian Pablo Poulsen, a journalist in Qaqortoq proclaimed that the the demise of the traditional village life was directly related to the discussion about the reconciliation with Denmark and Danes. He describes how for centuries people living in villages upheld the tradition of sharing what they had caught. Poulsen sayd that there is a direct link to this development when the Danes came, this tradition was lost: »Throughout our entire history, we have built up a sense of solidarity with each other. We make sure that everyone in the village is included when there is food to be shared. But Danes don’t get that kind of solidarity, and that’s why it fell apart«. Sunday in Eqalugaarsuit In the midst of the culture debate Eqalugaarsuit habitants enjoy the day of rest, Sunday. Gerda Poulsen, 47, and John Abelsen, 64, gladly open the door to their home by the harbour. They weren’t expecting guests, but now that someone is here, they offer coffee anyway. John Hansen, who was having his hair cut by Gerda, pulls on a pair of pants. The coffee is served, a large flatscreen TV shows live footage from the Sochi Winter Olympics, and Gerda Poulsen starts sharing about her tangled family tree. She has three children of her own. One of them is a healthcare assistant for the town’s elderly. The youngest lives in the school dormitory in Qaqortoq. The father of the oldest child was an alcoholic and nowadays she doesn’t know where he is. She met Abelsen

in 2005 who drives the town’s tractor. When young, Abelsen was sent to school in Denmark for a year, he went on to a maritime academy and lived as a seaman for a number of years. One Christmas he came home to Eqalugaarsuit for the holidays, became sober and decided never to leave town again. Gerda Poulsen is of the same mind. When a suggestion is made that they could move to a larger town her displeasure is tangible. »No way. There are still fish and seal here for us to live off. The factory is shut down, but there are still fish out in the water«. The next day, a helicopter will bring her father to the hospital in Qaqortoq, but Eqalugaarsuit, is her home. When the guests bring up the topic of independence, Gerda Poulsen starts staring at the Olympics. Silence descends. It’s been ages since any politician from Nuuk has visited Eqalugaarsuit. The mayor of Qaqortoq, who is also responsible for Eqalugaarsuit comes by occasionally in the summer, but always during the day, when Gerda Poulsen is at work. Growing up and going to school here was fun, she says. The school had more than just one teacher then, but independence is not something she seems eager to discuss. Abelsen, her partner, believes that independence wouldn’t be so bad, but he doesn’t think it is realistic in the near future. Another moment of silence. A long one this time – then Abelsen breaks it. In his own way, he eccoes what Pablo had said before in Qaqortoq. »Our culture is different from Danish culture. There aren’t a lot of people here in the village, but we help each other out«. Gerda Poulsen is still not eager to add anything, but she makes sure to tell how she still thinks Eqalugaarsuit is a good place to live.


Theses based on 20 years of research Her words are matched by many of those in Greenland’s villages. Kåre Hendriksen, a teacher at the engineering school in Sisimiut, pubished in 2013 a rapport based on his many visits to the smaller communities over two decades. He is probably the only academic that can claim to have visited the majority of Greenland’s smallest villages, often stayed there for an extended period of time. During those visits, he gathered data about the local economy and interviewed more than 130 people about all aspects of their lives, and he came to a new understanding of the economics and life in the villages: »I knew the feeling that many have of: why do they live here? But that feeling was no different whether it was a village or a bigger town«. During the 1990s, Henridksen lived with his own family in Aasiaat and Qeqertarsuaq, where people often joked about that they made their living through giving each other haircuts. »In a lot of places it’s hard to see any economic activity other than public administration, education, healthcare or whatever jobs were tied to the towns’ essential services: retail, power, construction, etc.« But Hendriksen also learned how people bartered after a successful hunt. In his opinion, this bartering system is highly underrated. Some of the villages were thriving and growing, and some were without any future in sight. He discovered how residents in the larger towns were actually often more dependent on social services. People living in settlements could fish and hunt without having to report their catches to anyone. In the end, Hendriksen calculated that it was, in fact, people living in bigger towns who were the biggest

problem for Greenland’s economy, since they consumed most of Greenland’s imports. His rapport was a great contribution to the debate about Greenlandic independence. When he wrote his doctoral thesis, the assumption was that forcibly relocating people from poor settlements would be a way to cut public spending and shore up the economy, which in turn would allow Greenland to declare its independence sooner than it otherwise would be able to. Henriksen’s thesis questioned that thought. He no longer felt that centralization would automatically save money or lead to greater economic dynamism in the larger towns. No matter what happened, towns in Greenland were still going to be comparatively small. Another thing to be considered, Hendriksen found, was that people living in the villages felt completely left out of the discussion about their own future. »Whenever I mentioned any of all the reports about the state of affairs in the villages, the people who lived there had no idea they existed. As soon as I started telling them what the reports concluded, most would just shake their head in disapproval. Some got angry. The descriptions of their settlement did not match their own experience«. One woman, he interviewed, exclaimed, »we’re not poor! Just have a look around«. The escape from Eqalugaarsuit The already forceful wind in Eqalugaarsuit begins to pick up. The flag at the church stood out straight and the more snow started creating new drifts. Up at the house were Kuka Hansen and her husband Aqissiviq live, there is a bucket with leftover salted pilot whale meat. Hansen is one of the village’s

active fishermen and he also hunts. The family has just enough to support itself, but only because Rosa gets paid to take care of the kids at the school. Even so, the thought of moving away and into a town almost makes Aqissiviq feel ill. A few days ago, he and another fishermen netted 200kg of redfish, and he has a hard time seeing who’s going to buy his boat from him when he stops fishing. »Young people don’t want to do this anymore. The hard life isn’t for them«. He says it without any sense of acrimony. It’s weekend and two girls from the town are back from their school in Qaqortoq for a visit. Their parents have moved to Qaqortoq, Nuuk, Sisimiut, Copenhagen; the flight from Eqalugaarsuit shows no sign of slowing, more than 84 % of the population now live in the bigger towns. While Rosa »Kuka«, Aqissiviq, Gerda Poulsen and John Abelsen watch the Olympics in Eqalugaarsuit, young Greenlanders in Nuuk pass their time hanging out at trendy internet cafés, ear phones in their ears and tucked into Canada Goose coats with genuine fox-fur trim. They sip their organic black currant juice under trendy photographs of hunters, each image elegantly framed by rough boards and sealskin. At Katuaq, Nuuk’s modern cultural centre, urbanite families dine on Greenlandic tapas at DKK 145 per plate. They apply for well-paying jobs and buy flowers freshly flown in from Copenhagen and pineapples from far away everyday items. Not to mention the three packages of pork mince. Aqissiviq Hansen’s one-man fishing operation in Eqalugaarsuit is far from fashionable here, but in the media the decline of Greenlandic culture is big news. Lawmakers have it on their agenda, and it has been there long. 23 2015

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foto / Photo: greenland.com

Spectators in their own country In 2012, Bo Wagner Sørsensen and Søren Forchhammer, two Danish academics, published a study about Danish attitudes towards Greenlandic urbanization. As far back as 1847, Carl Emil Jansen, a missionary, wrote about the disappointment he felt upon meeting the congregation in Godthaab, the old colonial name for Nuuk. In contrast to the congregation he had led further north, these Greenlanders were »civilized, unfortunately. They are missing the strong national traits to which I have become accustomed. They live in homes that would not be too out of place in Denmark, they wear clothes that Danes would consider normal, they neither hunt nor do they fish. They live, by all respects, a normal, proper and mostly civilized life«. He sourly missed »the free, independent and skilled Greenlander, who in his own curious manner is able to convince the wild sea to release its keep and the mountain its reindeer. I find this man more interesting than the one who has given up his freedom for the rations of a sailor’s biscuit«. The decline of traditional Greenlandic hunting traditions has been a matter of concern for Danes as well as Greenlanders ever since. In 1994, Tove Søvndahl Petersen, who would later become Greenland’s official representative in Copenhagen, wrote about the cultural loss in the 1960s, when the concentration of people around fish processing plants in larger towns was taking place. »The safe and familiar life in the villages was swapped out with an utterly foreign urban lifestyle and many people suddenly found themselves living in social housing amongst people they did not know«. Disaster was unavoidable. »It didn’t take long before people 46

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turned to the bottle when they needed an way to escape from the pressures of the modern world«. Her conclusion was a familiar one. »Almost from one day to the next the people of Greenland lost their culture and their identity, and Greenlanders become spectators in their own country«. By then, the depiction of Greenlanders as an unwilling spectator to their own destiny was becoming an integral part of Greenland’s story about itself. Kalistat Lund used it as a bogeyman in Narsaq; It was in the air, that something from the outside had pulled the spectator hat over the Greenlanders, and now it was all about defending yourself, or at least to reconcile. Back to the future For Kuka and Aqissiviq Hansen, the important thing now is to defend their village. They don't think it would be irrational to close down Eqalugaarsuit. »There’s us unemployed and pensioners living in the larger towns. At least we live in our own house here. If we move to Qaqortoq, we will have to pay more in rent – if we can even find a place to live«. Outside the wind is still picking up. The Hansens are getting comfy on the sofa with a magazine and the remotecontrol. Kuka Hansen is crocheting what looks like a napkin, maybe its part of a set to go with the lampshade she’s crocheted for the lamp above the coffee table. The walls are filled with crossstitching and family photos. A big colour photo of Aqissiviq's smiling grandchildren and the class when he attended Faxe Boarding School. The TV is now showing skiing competition. There was a moment of confussion as the radio is on, and at that moment Kuupik Kliest’s familiar voice

is on air. It’s not uncommon here to listen to Greenlandic radio while they watch Danish TV with the sound off. Now, though, it’s almost as if Kleist is commenting on the ski race in Greenlandic, but he is discussing Greenland’s future with Vittus Qujaukitsoq, the finance minister. No-one here is listening, and Kuka and Aqissiviq Hansen react to questions about independence the same way Gerda Poulsen and John Abelsen did down at the harbour. They think long before answering at all. He says that the question will still be irrelevant for many years to come. She has no opinion she cares to share. It is time to boat back to Qaqortoq, the capital of South Greenland – even with the wind blowing. Kulunnguaq Hansen, Kuka Hansen’s sister’s granddaughter, wants a ride back. She’s in her final year of high school and has made the trip plenty of times, and sometimes in rougher seas. On the way back, she shouts over the wind as she explains that she’s got no fixed plans for the future. Only one thing is for certain: Moving back to Eqalugaarsuit is out of the question.

About the author An edited excerpt of the book »The Greenland Dilemma« about Greenland’s and Denmark’s complex relations, written by Martin Breum, journalist and author. The book will be available as an e-book in English on www.fak.dk free of charge in the first half of 2015.


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HØJTELSKEDE FAVORITTER SIDEN 1968 grønlandsjakken blev lanceret i 1968 og var Fjällrävens første jakke. Den var fleksibel, slidstærk og praktisk i al slags vejr og hurtigttørrende – alt det, som datidens friluftstøj ikke var. Bjergbestigere elskede jakken, og snart fi k en bredere målgruppe af friluftsentusiaster også øjnene op for den. Med årene er Grønlandsjakken blevet et af Fjällrävens signaturprodukter, som generationer af friluftsentusiaster har båret. I dag består Grønlandskollektionen af en række jakker og bukser, der stadig er syet i vores eget funktionsmateriale g-1000, og som alle har de samme detaljer og egenskaber som den oprindelige model. For eksempel Greenland Winter Jacket og Greenland Winter Parka med varmt for i teddyfleece til de koldere dele af året.

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Se hele Grønlandsserien på www.fjallraven.dk

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oplevelser / adventure

Ved den kælvende gletsjer Eqip Sermia i den nordøstlige del af Diskobugten er der tydelige spor i fjeldet fra de bæltekøretøjer, etnologen Paul-Émile Victor brugte til sin store polarekspedition »Expéditions polaires françaises« i årene 1948-53. Mere spændende bliver det, da vi i en lille gruppe på fire turister og en guide følger sporene. I timer vandrer vi ind i fjeldet og op på indlandsisen. Op og ned over morænebakker, fjelde og gennem dale. Undervejs passerer vi rester af primitive træbroer, som ekspeditionsmedlemmerne byggede til bæltekøretøjerne.

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Ved en tidligere ekspeditionslejr ligger wirer og motor fra en nedlagt hejsebane og efterladte slæder, der blev trukket efter køretøjerne. Midt på fjeldet er der dåser, trækasser, larvebælter og endda mundblæste flasker fra ekspeditionen. Selv inde på indlandsisen finder vi stofrester fra telte og bambuspinde, som for nyligt er smeltet frem. Pindene, der for over 60 år siden blev brugt af ekspeditionen til at mærke efter gletsjerspalter, måle snedybder og markere ruter. Isens lag og bevægelser De mange vidnesbyrd i ødemarken

vækker historien til live. Så vi skruer tiden tilbage til ekspeditionens første sommer. Den 1. juni 1948 lagde det norske fragtskib Force til ved gletsjeren. Om bord var Paul-Émile Victor, 25 ekspeditionsmedlemmer og 90 tons udstyr. Til at fragte udstyret ind på indlandsisen havde Paul-Émile Victor fundet på den vilde idé at bruge otte bæltekøretøjer fra den amerikanske hærs overskudslagre. Gletsjerbølge kæntrede båd Flere hold blev sendt ud for at lede efter en rute ind til isen. Men det var ikke


Paul-Émile Victors simple træhytte var ekspeditionens hovedkvarter. Paul-Émile Victor’s modest wooden cabin was the expedition’s headquarters.

nemt. Et spor fra en tidligere ekspedition i 1912 var ikke godt nok til bæltekøretøjerne. Men et hold opdagede en ny rute, som så ud til at være farbar med en smule forbedringer. Ruten blev senere afmærket med varder, ligesom sten blev fjernet og større klippestykker sprængt i stykker. Med hjælp fra 15 grønlændere brugte de 25 ekspeditionsmedlemmer seks dage til at aflæsse skibet. Først måtte de bygge to moler. Arbejdet var besværligt, fordi is fra den kælvende gletsjer et par kilometer

derfra gav store bølger, at en af bådene kæntrede og et bæltekøretøj sank. Tæt på indlandsisen stødte et hold på en større udfordring, som Paul-Émile Victor skriver om i magasinet ARCTIC i 1949. - Den største forhindring var en 152 meter klippeskrænt, men vi havde forudset dette og havde medbragt en specialkonstrueret kabelbane til at hejse forsyninger over med.

Myg og dårligt vejr Ved klippeskrænten etablerede ekspeditionen sin anden lejr. Det første bæltekøretøj nåede op på indlandsisen den 9. juli 1948, blot ni dage efter skibet lagde til. Det tog 46 dage fordelt på 15 konvojer at bringe ekspeditionens

Den berømte polarforsker, Paul-Émile Victor, brugte motordrevne bæltekøretøjer til at få sit udstyr frem til indlandsisen. greenland today har fundet vidnesbyrd fra ekspeditionerne – og dykket ned i historien. Tekst & Fotos: Anne Mette Ehlers, Historiske fotos: J. J. Languepin

polar

Levn fra fransk ekspedition

i fjeldet 23 2015

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Kabelbanen var 701 meter lang og 152 meter over jorden på det højeste sted. Ved sommerekspeditionen 1948 blev 43 tons udstyr hejst over kløften uden uheld. The cable-way was 701 metres long and 152 metres above the ground at the highest place. During the summer expedition in 1948, 43 tons of equipment were hoisted over the cliff over without any mishaps.

Nationalmuseet i Danmark ønsker at bevare sporene Området ved Eqi er langt fra det eneste - Det er først efter hjemmestyrets indførsted i Grønland, hvor landskabet bærer else i 1979, at ekspeditioner eller virksomtegn på, at der har været mennesker i nyheder blev pålagt at rydde op efter sig. ere tid. Flyvrag er indfrosset i indlandsisen Det giver meget god mening at bevare eller ligger direkte i fjeldet. Ved kysten er kulturhistoriske spor som dem i Eqi, for der forladte bygder. I flere områder er der de vækker historien til live. Er der lokal ekspeditionsrester og levn fra tidligere interesse, bør man dokumentere og bevare baser, virksomheder, minebyer og vejrstati- genstandene samt formidle historien. oner, foruden talrige af skibsvrag i havet. Museumsinspektør Hans Lange fra - I Grønland er der mange ting fra Grønlands Nationalmuseum oplyser, tidligere tider, som har fået lov til at at resterne ikke er omfattet af grønblive liggende og forfalde, forklarer landsk museumslovgivning, da de er projektseniorforsker ved Nationalmuseet udefrakommende og ikke oprindeligt i Danmark, Jens Fog Jensen. grønlandske. Souschef Georg Nyegaard

Paul-Émile Victor 28.6.1907 - 7.3.1995. Fransk officer, etnolog og polarforsker. Krydsede indlandsisen med hundeslæde i 1936. Med Expéditions Polaires Françaises (194853) ville han ud fra meteorologiske og glaciologiske observationer afklare, om indlandsisen bevægede sig. Han skaffede sig også viden om indlandsisens overflade, densitet, temperaturer og dybere lag. Kerneboringerne af isen nåede 151 meter. Sneens og isens vægtfylde og temperaturer i forskellige dybder blev bestemt, ligesom dybden af indlandsisen på flere lokaliteter blev bestemt via seismiske målinger. 50

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Fra ekspeditionens udstyrsliste, sommeren 1948 n 7 bæltekøretøjer (M29C) – det ottende gik til bunds n 14 aluminiumsslæder til at trække efter køretøjerne n 3 trailere til laboratorier n 3657 meter metalkabler til kabelbanen n 3 spil n 22.730 liter benzin n Radiosæt & Radioudstyr n Mad til 25 mænd i seks måneder baseret på 5.000 kalorier per mand pr dag. n Teltudstyr og videnskabelige instrumenter

fra Grønlands Nationalmuseum tilføjer desuden, at anlæggene ikke er fredede, og der er ingen aktuelle planer om at rejse fredningssager. Nogle planer er dog i gang. I 2014 havde Qaasuitsup Kommune en plan i høring, som tillader mange flere turisthytter i området samt et forsknings- og besøgscenter. Måske lander spørgsmålet om at beskytte sporene efter Victors aktiviteter i den forbindelse hos rådet for Grønlands Kulturarv.

En ladning hejses med kabelbanen, under ses en trailer med udstyr, 13. Juli 1948, Foto J. J. Languepin, gengivelse med tilladelse fra The Arctic Institute of North America. A load being hoisted on the cableway. Underneath this is a trailer with equipment, July 13th 1948. Photo J. J. Languepin, reproduction by permission from The Arctic Institute of North America.


Kilder anvendt i artiklen Artiklen »The French Expedition to Greenland, 1948« af Paul-Émile Victor i »Arctic«, Journal of the Arctic Institute of North America, 1949, hvorfra de historiske billeder er affotograferet med tilladelse. Geus.dk: Viden om Ilulissat, Arktisk Institut, Wikipedia. dk, artiklen: »Overvintringsstationer på Indlandsisen« af Jørgen Taagholt i Tidsskriftet Grønland 4/1998, denstoredanske.dk og, Qaasuitsup Kommune: Offentlig høring Eqi, det åbne land, 2014.

Ved indlandsisen har ismasserne efterladt et landskab af sten. The ice masses have left a stony landscape on the Ice Sheet.

giske forskning i Antarktis. Paul-Émile Victors vilde projekt var lykkedes, og med det moderne udstyr indledte han en ny æra for forskningen af is, glaciologien. Efter sin pensionering mange år senere var franskmanden måske blevet træt af sne og is. I hvert tilfælde flyttede Paul-Émile Victor med sin hustru langt fra sne og is til den franske stillehavsø Bora-Bora, hvor han døde i 1995.

Photo: John Rasmussen, Narsaq Foto.

første udstyr op til den tredje lejr ved indlandsisen. Efter sig trak køretøjerne slæder med udstyr, og der skulle laves 14 km spor, og udstyret skulle hejses over klippeskrænten. Andre strabadser, ekspeditionsmedlemmerne kæmpede med den første sommer, var utallige myg og dårligt vejr. I de følgende fire år blev gletsjerne og isen løbende undersøgt, før Paul-Émile Victor brød op og fortsatte sin glaciolo-

stamps.gl facebook.com/stamps.gl

It is characteristic of the catch in Greenland that it is sustainable and that the hunters use the whole animal when killed. The meat is part of the household, while skins and bones are used in the production of handicrafts.

Ivalo Abelsen pinx

11,00

2015

G551

19,00

Ivalo Abelsen pinx

2015

01100551 Hunters’ Lives II 2/2

POST Greenland Filatelia, P.O. Box 121, 3913 Tasiilaq, Greenland. Phone: +45 70 26 05 50, greenland today 23 2015 e-mail: stamps@telepost.gl

51

150211_GT

Since the first immigrants arrived in Thule 4,000-5,000 years ago, the Inuit in Greenland have been dependent on natural resources such as fish,

birds, land and marine mammals. Hunting and fishing have always been a matter of survival in a country where the summer is short and the winter long and hard.

01100550 Hunters’ Lives II 1/2 Date of issue: 19th January 2015 40 stamps per sheet Exterior dimensions: 40.00 x 28.50 mm Format: G – Vertical Artist: Ivalo Abelsen Printing Method: Offset Paper: TR4

Kalaallit Nunaat Grønland

On 19th January the second part of this series was issued. The two stamps complete Ivalo Abelsen’s artistic interpretation highlighting the cultural importance of hunting in Greenland. The first two stamps in the series were issued on 20th October 2014.

G550

Kalaallit Nunaat Grønland

Hunters’ Lives - the final part


oplevelser / adventure

Evidence of French

polar in the fells expedition

The trail for the tracked vehicles is still there.

Foto/photo: Polar Seafood

Vejen til bæltekøretøjerne er der endnu.

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The famous polar explorer, Paul-Émile Victor, used motorized tracked vehicles - Weasels – to get his equipment to the ice sheet. greenland today has found evidence of the expedition – and delved into its history. Text and photos: Anne Mette Ehlers, historical photos J. J. Languepin

In the fells close to the calving glacier, Eqip Sermia, in the north-eastern part of Disco Bay there are clear traces of the tracked vehicles that ethnologist Paul-Émile Victor used in his great polar expedition »Expéditions polaires françaises« in 1948-1953. It gets more interesting as our little group of four tourists and one guide follow the signs. For hours we walk in the fells and on the ice sheet. Up and over moraine hills, fells and through valleys. On the way, we pass by the remains of the primitive wooden bridges that the members of the expedition built for the tracked vehicles. At a former expedition camp there are steel wires and engines from an obsolete hoist and abandoned sleds which had been towed by the vehicles. In the middle of the fells there are

Ice layers and movements The abundance of evidence in the wilderness brings history to life. So we turn back time to the expedition’s first summer. On June 1st, 1948 the Norwegian freighter Force moored next to the glacier. On board were Paul-Emile Victor, 25 expedition members and 90 tons of equipment. In order to transport the equipment on to the ice sheet, Paul-Émile Victor

Paul-Émile Victor 28.6.1907 - 7.3.1995. French officer, ethnologist and polar explorer. He crossed the Greenland Ice Sheet in 1936. He wanted to use Expéditions Polaires Françaises (1948-53) to make meteorological and glaciological observations to determine whether the ice sheet was moving. He also acquired information regarding the ice sheet’s surface, density, temperature and its deeper layers. The drilled ice cores reached a depth of 151 metres. The density of the snow and ice and the temperatures at different depths were measured. Furthermore, seismic measurements of the depth of the ice sheet were made at several locations.

From the expedition equipment list, Summer 1948 n 7 tracked vehicles (Weasel M29C) – the eighth sank n 14 aluminium sledges to be towed by the vehicles n 3 trailers for laboratories n 3657 metres of metal cable for the cable-way n 3 winches n 22.730 litres of gasoline n Radio sets & radio equipment n Food for 25 men for six months – based on 5,000 calories per man per day. n Camping material and scientific instruments

cans, crates, caterpillar tracks and even mouth-blown bottles from the expedition. On the ice sheet we even find fabric remains from tents and bamboo sticks that have recently appeared in the melting ice. The sticks were used by the expedition 60 years ago to probe for glacier crevices, to measure snow depths and to mark routes.

A tracked vehicle on the ice sheet, July 1948. Photo J. J. Languepin, reproduction by permission from The Arctic Institute of North America. Et bæltekøretøj på indlandsisen, juli 1948. Foto J. J. Languepin, gengivelse med tilladelse fra The Arctic Institute of North America.

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On August 5th, 1951 at Mont Forel the French seismologist Alain Joset and the Danish engineer Jens Joachim Jarl fell into a 60 metre deep crevasse with their tracked vehicle. They were never found.

Den franske seismolog Alain Joset og den danske ingeniør Jens Joachim Jarl, faldt den 5. august 1951 ned i en 60 meter dyb gletsjerspalte med deres bæltekøretøj ved Mont Forel. De er aldrig blevet fundet.

Denmark’s National Museum wants to preserve the traces The area near Eqi is far from being - It was only after the introduction of the only place in Greenland where the Home Rule in 1979 that expeditions landscape has indications that people or industries were required to clean have been there in recent times. Aircraft up after themselves. It makes sense to wrecks are frozen in the ice or lie in the preserve cultural and historical remains fells. On the coast, there are abandoned like those at Eqi, because they bring settlements. In several areas there are history to life. If there is local interest, the remains of expeditions and former they should be documented and the military bases, industries, mining towns remains should be preserved so the story and weather stations, in addition to can be told. countless shipwrecks in the waters. Museum Curator Hans Lange from the - In Greenland, there are many things Greenland National Museum explains from earlier times that have been left to that the remains do not come under decay, explains Jens Fog Jensen, senior Greenland’s museum legislation, since project researcher at the National Muthey come from abroad and are not seum in Denmark. originally Greenlandic. Georg Nyegaard,

Sources used in the article The article »The French Expedition to Greenland, 1948« by Paul-Émile Victor published in »Arctic«, Journal of the Arctic Institute of North America, 1949, from which the historical pictures have been taken with permission. Geus.dk: Knowledge of Ilulissat, Arctic Institute, 54

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Wikipedia.dk, the article: »Overvintringsstationer på Indlandsisen« (Winter stations on the Ice Sheet) by Jørgen Taagholt in the periodical Grønland 4/1998, denstoredanske.dk and Qaasuitsup Municipality: Public hearing Eqi, the open country, 2014.

director at Greenland National Museum, adds that the remains are not currently preserved and there are no plans to raise a conservation order. However, something is planned. In 2014, Qaasuitsup Municipality held a hearing about a plan to allow more tourist cabins in the area and to establish a research and visitor centre. Perhaps this will bring the question of preserving the traces of Victor’s activities before the Committee for Greenland’s Heritage.


had come up with the wild idea of using eight American army surplus tracked vehicles – Weasels. Glacier wave capsized boat Several teams were sent out to search for a route to the ice. But it was not easy. The trail used by a former expedition in 1912 was not good enough for the tracked vehicles. However, one team discovered a new route which looked as if it would be passable after a few improvements. The route was later marked with cairns and cleared of rocks. Larger rocks were blasted out. The 25 members of the expedition spent six days unloading the ship with the assistance of 15 Greenlanders. First, they had to build two jetties. The work was difficult because ice from the calving glacier a few kilometres away created such large waves that one of the boats capsized and one of the tracked vehicles sank.

Close to the ice sheet, the team met a bigger challenge, which Paul-Émile Victor wrote about in the periodical ARCTIC in 1949. - The most difficult obstacle was a 500-foot cliff, but we had foreseen this and had brought with us a specially constructed cable-way for lifting supplies. Mosquitoes and bad weather The expedition established its second camp on a rocky slope. The first vehicle reached the ice sheet on July 9th, 1948 just nine days after the ship arrived. It took 15 convoys 46 days to bring the first expedition equipment up to the third camp on the ice sheet. The vehicles towed the sleds with equipment and 14 kilometres of pathway had to

be laid and the equipment had to be lifted over the edge of the rock. Other hardships to be endured by the members of the expedition that first summer included countless mosquitoes and bad weather. During the following four years, the glaciers and the ice were studied regularly, before Paul-Émile Victor left and continued his glaciological research in the Antarctic. Paul-Émile Victor’s wild project was a success and by using modern equipment he started a new era for the research of ice – glaciology. The Frenchman retired many years later, perhaps weary of snow and ice. In any event, Paul-Émile Victor and his wife moved far away from snow and ice to the French Pacific island of Bora-Bora, where he died in 1995.

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CONTACT info@arcticwonder.com


portræt / portrait

med

Mønsterbryder Det er aldrig for sent at forfølge sin drøm, mener Helene Tukula, der er flyttet hjem til Grønland for at uddanne sig og slå rod Tekst: Mads Nordlund

I 1967 kom en lille pige til verden på en vinterboplads mere end 100 km nord for Angmassalik (i dag Tasiilaq). Familien boede i en fangsthytte med én stor briks som soveplads. Systemet var, at faderen lå i den ene side, derefter moderen med det yngste barn ved siden af sig, og så efter alder derudaf. Den lille pige fik navnet Helene Tukula og lå som den sidst fødte ved siden af sin mor med seks søskende på den anden side. Hun voksede op i bygden Kulusuk, indtil hun var seks år. Hendes eneste minde derfra er, at hun gik med sin far i hånden på familiebesøg i bygden. Her tog livet en barsk drejning, da hendes forældre døde. Helene kom på børnehjem i Tasiilaq, hvorfra hun blev adopteret af et dansk ægtepar og som syvårig sendt ned til dem i Danmark. Adoptivbarn i Danmark Familien, hun kom til, havde i forvejen adopteret en dreng, der også kom fra Østgrønland. - Det var meget anderledes, og jeg følte det som et fængsel, fortæller Helene Tukula. - Vi måtte ikke lege med andre og skulle komme direkte hjem fra skole. Vi var meget alene og havde ikke rigtig nogle venner. Mine adoptivforældre gjorde, hvad de kunne, for at vi skulle 56

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lære noget. Vi havde også nogle dejlige vinterferier i Norge, og jeg tror, at de ville os det godt – bare på deres præmisser. Som 20-årig flyttede Helene hjemmefra og blev uddannet kleinsmed. Det var en mandeverden, og flere steder fik hun direkte afslag med den begrundelse, at hun var kvinde. Imens hun gik arbejdsløs, supplerede hun sine færdigheder med specialkurser i svejsning og endte med at få flere job, det sidste et rigtig godt sted med en rigtig god chef. I mellemtiden havde hun fået datteren Freia, men forholdet til faderen holdt desværre kun i tre år. Tilbage til rødderne - Min adoptiv-lillebror tog desværre sit eget liv. Det fik mig til at tænke på mine grønlandske rødder, fortæller Helene. Hvorfor jeg så ud, som jeg gør? - Jeg havde boet mange steder og kunne ikke rigtig finde ro. Jeg ville gerne finde mine rødder, flytte til Grønland og lære min biologiske familie at kende. Jeg skrev til dem, om jeg kunne bo hos dem, hvis jeg kom tilbage, og det var de bare glade for. - I Tasiilaq boede vi rigtig mange sammen. Min søsters hus var ødelagt af Piteraq (en voldsom og kold vind af stormstyrke, der kommer fra indlandsisen/red.), og derfor boede vi alle hos min niece.

- Det var hårdt, fordi det var uvant for mig, og jeg havde min lille datter Freia. Men jeg fik hurtigt arbejde og prøvede forskellige jobs. Blandt andet på børnehjemmet, men det kunne jeg ikke klare rent følelsesmæssigt. - Jeg valgte at tage en uddannelse som kontorassistent på handelsskolen og blev kontorelev hos Tele Posts Filateliafdeling i Tasiilaq. - Skoleopholdene var på Niuernermik Iliniarfik (Handelsskolen) i Nuuk, og jeg kunne godt lide at være der. Flere af mine medstuderende havde med regnskaber at gøre. Det var der ikke mulighed for i min læreplads, og jeg besluttede at tage til Danmark med mine to børn, da jeg havde fået Malik i 2002 i Tasiilaq. Danmark - I Danmark fik jeg prøvet kræfter med regnskab og blev helt sikker på, at jeg vil lære det. - Jeg havde fundet en indre ro i Tasiilaq, og jeg følte mig ikke rigtig tilpas i Danmark. Det var svært at gøre noget for sig selv som enlig mor, da det drejer sig mere om overlevelse, men det blev alligevel til seks år, konstaterer Helene. - Jeg var hele tiden fast besluttet på at ville tilbage til Grønland. Derfor prøvede jeg at søge diverse jobs i Nuuk, men uden held. Jeg manglede en grundlæggen-

de regnskabsuddannelse, og for at få den skulle jeg have gymnasium først. - Jeg tænkte meget på børnene og deres voksenliv. Freia var blevet teenager i Danmark og skulle selv på gymnasium. Hun ville ikke med til Grønland igen, så det var svært at træffe en beslutning om at rejse hjem, før hun var stor nok. Det var et svært valg, men jeg tror, at det er vigtigt, at jeg som forælder har det godt for at have noget at give mine børn. Det påvirker jo altid børn, hvis deres forældre ikke har det godt. Malik og Freia kunne jo godt mærke det på mig, at jeg savnede Grønland. Hjem til Grønland - Når jeg har sat mig noget for, så gør jeg, hvad jeg kan for at nå dertil, forklarer Helene. - I april 2014 flyttede jeg derfor til Nuuk med Malik. Det betyder, at vi må undvære at se Freia så meget, når vi bor her, men afstand betyder ikke så meget, hvis alle har det godt og har overskud til hinanden. - Jeg er ked af, at Malik og Freia er skilt ad, for de har altid haft det godt sammen, men efter Freia blev teenager og har fået andre interesser, er det lidt nemmere. - I starten boede vi hos noget familie i Nuuk. Sommer 2014 startede jeg på G.U. i Nuuk (Gymnasial uddannel-


klare mål se) og fik en lille kollegielejlighed. - Fra sommer 2015 vil jeg læse akademiøkonom og håber, at jeg kan finde en læreplads. Fremtiden - Det er rigtig dejligt at være tilbage i Grønland, også selvom det har nogle store omkostninger for vores lille familie, at vi er skilt ad. Der er heller ikke mange penge at leve for som studerende og enlig mor.

- På trods af alle forhindringer vil jeg alligevel anbefale alle at forfølge deres drøm, siger Helene eftertænksomt. - Vi lever jo i en verden, hvor der skal betales husleje og skaffes mad på bordet. Så først vil jeg gøre min uddannelse færdig, have et arbejde og klare mig selv. - Og jeg drømmer da også om engang at finde en grønlandsk mand, om en hytte i fjorden og en båd, slutter Helene Tukula.

Besøg os i hjertet af København eller på www.sumut.dk Kalaallit Illuutaat - Det Grønlandske Hus i København byder året rundt på en række kulturelle arrangementer

Mødelokale m. plads til ca. 25 personer. Som foredragslokale er der plads til ca. 45 personer.

Udstillinger Debatter Koncerter Bogpræsentationer Kulinariske aftener Kulturel rådgivning m. m.

Enkeltmandskontor med tilhørende pc, printer m.v. kan lejes på dags- eller ugebasis. Adgang til huset 24 timer i døgnet.

Der er desuden en boghandel med et bredt udvalg af bøger om Grønland og et galleri med mulighed for kunstkøb. Der ydes derudover information og vejledning om nutidige grønlandske forhold.

Udstyr: Panelmikrofoner Projektor Fjernsyn Videokonferrenceudstyr Internetforbindelse

Det store lokale (Ajamut) i stueetagen kan lejes i weekenden og på hverdage efter kl. 17.00 til møder m.m. Plads til 50-70 personer.

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Et stykke Grønland i Danmark

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lokaler@sumut.dk eller, Susanne Jensen 33381580

Løvstræde 6, Postboks 1042, 1007 København K Tlf. +45 33 91 12 12, Fax +45 33 15 75 90 www.sumut.dk greenland today 57 23 2015 email: lokaler@sumut.dk


portrĂŚt / portrait

and

Helene broke the mold It's never too late to pursue your dream, Helen Tukula says. She has moved back to Greenland to study and settle down. Text: Mads Nordlund

A little girl came into the world in a winter camp more than 100 km north of Angmassalik (today Tasiilaq) in 1967. The family lived in a hunting cabin with one large bed functioning as the sleeping area. The father laid on one side, then the mother with the youngest child beside her, and then the next youngest and so forth. The little girl was named Helene Tukula, and laid as the youngest beside her mother with six brothers and sisters on the other side. She grew up in the village of Kulusuk until she was six years old. Her only memory from there is holding her father's hand walking on their way to visit family in the village. Her life took a dramatic turn when her parents died. Helene was placed in an orphanage in Tasiilaq. She was adopted by a Danish couple at age 7 and sent to Denmark to live with them. Adoptive child in Denmark The family that adopte her, had already taken in a boy, also from East Greenland. - It was very different and I felt like I was in prison, Helene Tukula says. - We were not allowed to play with others and had to go straight home from school. We were alone a lot and had no real friends. My adoptive parents did what they could, so we would learn something. We did go 58

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on lovely winter vacations in Norway, and I think they meant us well – but on their terms. Helene moved away from home when she was 20 and became a locksmith. It was a man's world and she was turned away several times, because she was a woman. While she was unemployed, she received specialized training in welding, and ended up getting more jobs. The last job was in a large company, with a good boss. She had her daughter Freia within those years, but unfortunately, the relationship with the father did not last long. Back to the roots - My adoptive-brother tragically took his own life. It got me to think about my roots in Greenland, Helene says. I began wondering why I looked the way I do? - I lived many places and couldn't find peace anywhere. I wanted to find my roots, move to Greenland and get to know my biological family. I wrote them and asked if I could stay with them if I came back, and they were just happy. - In Tasiilaq we were many under one roof. My sister's house was destroyed by a Piteraq (a violent and cold storm coming from the ice cap / Ed.), So we all lived at my niece's house. - It was hard because it was unfamiliar to me, and I

had my little daughter Freia with me. But I quickly found work and pursued many different jobs. I worked at the orphanage for a while, but it became too emotional for me. - I chose to get an education as an office assistant at a business school and took a job at Tele Post's Philately Department in Tasiilaq. - The school was Niuernermik Iliniarfik (Trade School) in Nuuk. I enjoyed being there. Several of my fellow students got the opportunity to work in accounting. It was not possible where I had my apprenticeship so when I gave birth to my son Malik, in 2002 in Tasiilaq, I decided to move back to Denmark, this time with my two children. Denmark - In Denmark I was given the opportunity to work in accounting, and it reconfirmed that I wanted to learn more about this line of work. - I had found an inner peace in Tasiilaq, and I did not feel at ease in Denmark. It was hard to find time to do anything for myself as a single mother, as it is more about survival, but I ended up staying in Denmark for six years, Helene says. - My plan was to return to Greenland. I applied for various jobs in Nuuk, but with no success. I lacked basic accounting training, and that required completion

of gymnasium to be able to be accepted into accounting school. - I thought a lot about my children and their adult lives. Freia was a teenager in Denmark and was about to start gymnasium. She did not want to go back to Greenland, which made it hard to go forward with the decision about moving back until she was old enough. It was a difficult choice, but I think that it is important that I as a parent, am happy in order to be able to give my children anything. It always affects children if their parents are unwell. It was easy for Malik and Freia to feel that I missed Greenland. Home to Greenland - When I have set a goal, I'll do anything I can to get there, Helene explains. - In April 2014 I moved to Nuuk with Malik. This decision meant that we have to go without seeing Freia while we live here, but in the end, distance do not matter if all are well and truly care about each other. - I'm sorry that Malik and Freia are separated, because they have always been very close, but on the other hand, Freia has become a teenager and has other interests, so it’s becoming easier. - In the beginning we lived with relatives in Nuuk. I began studying at G.U. Nuuk (gymnasium) in the fall of


pursues her dream

2014 and got a small student apartment. - I will begin to study economics in the summer of 2015 and hope I can find an apprenticeship. The future - It is really great to be back in Greenland even if it is hard for our little family to be separated and there isn’t much money to live from as a student and single mother.

- I would still recommend everyone to pursue their dream, despite all the obstacles, Helene says thoughtfully. - We live in a world where you have to pay rent and put food on the table. My goal is to finish my education, get a job and take care of myself financially. - Today I dream about finding a Greenlandic man, a cabin in the fjord, and a boat, Helene Tukula ends.

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erhverv / business

Prisbelønnet sæbe Inuit Young fik i oktober 2014 en pris fra StartupGreenland.gl for en ny hotelgæstesæbe, de har udviklet

Sæbe fra

Sydgrønland Med en base af rent grønlandsk vand, kokosolie og grønlandske urter er produktionen af grønlandsk urtesæbe ved at blive en succes. Tekst: greenland today

I den idylliske by Narsaq i Sydgrønland finder man det lille firma »Inuit Young«, der startede for kun et par år siden. Firmaet producerer økologisk grønlandsk urtesæbe, uden tilsætningsstoffer og parfume. Sæberne kan bruges til hele kroppen, da de laves helt fra grunden med kokos- og olivenolie – kun tilsat urter og renset grønlandsk vand, vand der i forvejen er noget af verdens reneste. 60

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Der bruges 10 forskellige urter, der giver følgende varianter af sæben. Kvan, Grønlandsk Post, Arktisk Timian, Tang, Enebær, Arktisk Røllike, Sortebær, BjergEl, Arktisk Kamille og Rød Tang. Opstarten - Jeg startede med at lave sæbe i juli 2013, fortæller ejer Theodora Høegh. Dengang lavede vi 16 stykker sæbe ad gangen. I dag laver vi 144 stykker sæbe

på én gang i forme, som min mand har lavet. De flere forme har hjulpet meget og gjort produktionen nemmere. - Jeg har altid brugt urter fra naturen, især grønlandsk post og enebær som naturte og til at bage flutes og lave mad. Vores forfædre har brugt urterne som naturmedicin, så jeg tænkte på, hvad jeg kunne lave af urterne, som kan bruges til hverdag. Det gav mig ideen til sæberne. - Derefter spurgte jeg en bekendt, som er i familie med nogen, der har en sæbe-fabrik i Danmark, om de kunne hjælpe. De gav mig en grundopskrift, og så startede jeg med at lave de første to slags sæbe med grønlandsk post og kvan. - At urterne i sæberne virker godt, viser de mange henvendelser fra kunder, der skriver, at sæben hjælper dem med deres eksem og psoriasis og flere andre ting. Det glæder mig meget. Siden starten er det gået stærkt, og der har været stor efterspørgsel. Theodora har bl.a. solgt til krydstogtsskibe og souvenirbutikker, for der har været stor interesse fra turister generelt. Hun har også fået en aftale med De Grønlandske Brugser(KNB), der sælger sæben på hele kysten. - Indtægterne fra salget og et kassekreditlån til at starte med har gjort det muligt at købe større redskaber og få udviklet emballage med mere, fortæller Theodora. Produktudvikling og fremtiden Inuit Youngs fremtidsplaner er blandt andet at producere hotelgæstesæbe


med økologisk olie formet som den grønlandske kvindekniv Ulo. Samtidig fortsætter produktionen af 100 grams urtesæberne med endnu flere varianter i fremtiden. - Vi vil også lave flydende håndsæbe, hår- og bodyshampoo og bodycreamer med grønlandske urter, fortæller Theodora.

- Jeg er ved at finde lokaler, hvor jeg kan øge produktionen, og er startet med at undersøge forskellige sæbemaskiner. Februar 2015 blev brugt som gæst i Sæbefabrikken »Badeanstalten«, for at få mere erfaring. - Indtil videre har vi et lille hus, vi bruger som lager og tørrerum og som butik i turistsæsonen. Vi har gode hjæl-

pere, der samler urter i fjeldene omkring Narsaq om sommeren og en, som hjælper mig med at pakke sæbe. Jeg håber, der bliver mulighed for at ansatte flere, når produktionen starter med maskiner, slutter Theodora Høgh. Se mere inuityoung.gl

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greenland today 61 23 2015 3900 Nuuk Tel. +299 34 92 90 – www.ralog.dk


erhverv / business

Soap from

South Greenland With a base of pure Greenlandic water, coconut oil and herbs from Greenland, production of Greenlandic herbal soap is heading for success. Text: greenland today

In the idyllic town of Narsaq in South Greenland there is a small business called »Inuit Young« that started just a few years back. The business produces Greenlandic herbal soap with no additives or perfume. The soaps, which can be used all over the body, are made from scratch with coconut and olive oil – with the addition of just herbs and purified Greenlandic water, which is already some of the cleanest in the world. Ten different herbs are used in the following variations of soap: angelica, 62

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Labrador tea, Arctic thyme, seaweed, juniper, Arctic Achillea Millefolium, crowberry, mountain alder, Arctic chamomile and red seaweed. Start-up - I began making soap in July 2013, says owner Theodora Høegh. Back then, we made 16 bars of soap at a time. Today, we make 144 bars of soap at a time in moulds made by my husband. Having more moulds has been a great help and has made production much easier. - I have always used herbs from na-

ture, especially Labrador tea and juniper for natural teas and for baking baguettes and cooking. Our ancestors used the herbs for natural medicine, so I thought about what I could make with the herbs for general use. That gave me the idea for the soaps. - Then I asked an acquaintance who has family that has a soap factory in Denmark if they could help. They gave me a basic recipe and I started to make the first two sorts of soap with Labrador tea and angelica. - We know the herbs in the soaps work well from the many comments from our customers, who write that the soaps help with their eczema and psoriasis and other things. I am pleased at that. Since we started, things have moved quickly and demand has been huge. Theodora has, for instance, sold soaps to cruise ships and souvenir shops and there has been a general interest from tourists. She also has a contract with Grønlandske Brugser (Greenland’s


Award-winning soap In October 2014 Inuit Young received an award from StartupGreenland.gl for a new hotel guest soap they had developed.

Co-op stores) with outlets covering the entire coast. - The sales revenue and a bank overdraft have made it possible to purchase higher capacity production equipment and to develop the packaging etc. says Theodora. Product development and the future Inuit Young´s plans for the future include producing hotel guest soaps shaped like an ulo, the Greenlandic women’s knife, using organic oils. At the

same time, production of the 100-gram bars of soap will continue and there will be more varieties. - We also want to produce liquid hand soap, hair and body shampoo and body creams with Greenlandic herbs, says Theodora. - I am looking for premises where I can increase production and I have started to look at different soap machines. February 2015 was spent as a guest at the »Badeanstalten« soap factory in order to gain more experience.

- At the moment, we have a small house which we use as a store room and drying room and as a shop in the tourist season. We have good people who assist us by collecting herbs in the fells around Narsaq in the summer and someone to help us pack the soap. I hope we will be able to hire more people when we start production with the machines, ends Theodora Høgh. See more inuityoung.gl

Book an online video meeting Book et videomøde Easy. Quick. And available to all business customers. Nemt. Hurtigt. Og tilgængeligt for alle erhvervskunder.

erhverv@banken.gl 23 2015

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63


sport

Ari Hermann i action ved KissCup 2014 i Berlin.

Ari Hermann in action at KissCup 2014 in Berlin.

Talentet er åbenlyst - fremtiden ser lovende ud

foto/Photo: privat/private

Den 18-årige Ari Hermann er et stort fodboldtalent. Han satser på en sportskarriere og er derfor flyttet til Danmark, hvor han spiller for Viborg. Tekst: John Jakobsen

Den største idrætsgren i Grønland er fodbold. Grønland har fostret mange talenter igennem årene, men det helt store gennembrud har ladet vente på sig. Et nyt stort talent satser de kommende år på for alvor at slå igennem. Det er den 18-årige Ari Hermann, der er opvokset i Nanortalik. Netop nu spiller han på græsbanerne i Viborg. - Jeg har altid været vild med fodbold. Helt fra jeg var lille, kan jeg kan huske, at jeg altid spillede fodbold i stuen med min far, hvor vi brugte stolene som mål. Det var hverken min mor eller min storesøster særlig glade for, men vi gjorde det alligevel, fortæller Ari Hermann. - Nanortalik er en lille by i Sydgrønland, og fodbold er ikke det, man dyrker mest i byen. Der var heller ikke ret mange drenge, som spillede fodbold, og jeg havde svært ved at finde kammerater, som gad sparke fodbold med mig. - Som 6-7 årig fik jeg min første store oplevelse. Min far, Arne Hermann, skulle arbejde nogle måneder i Vancouver i Canada, så vi tog af sted. Jeg blev helt vild, da min far sagde, at der var græsbaner i Vancouver. Jeg ville prøve at spille på græs, den mulighed havde jeg jo ikke hjemme i Grønland. Det tog meget lang tid at finde 64

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en klub. Til sidst lykkedes det at finde en klub lige udenfor Vancouver, og det var mega skønt at spille på græs. - Vi flyttede til Nuuk, da jeg var næsten 9 år. Det var lidt mærkeligt at flytte til en storby i starten. Jeg vænnede mig til det, og så var der jo mange flere muligheder i Nuuk, end der var i Nanortalik. Jeg startede i en klub, der hed GSS, og var der, indtil jeg var omkring de 13-14 år. Så skiftede jeg klub til B-67. Det var en klub, der var mere seriøse, og jeg ønskede jo at blive bedre til at spille fodbold. Og i B-67 måtte jeg virkelig kæmpe hårdt for at opnå mine mål. - Jeg fik langt bedre træning og mere modstand, og det var lige, hvad jeg havde brug for. Jeg deltog allerede som 14-årig i mit første GM. Det var i 2011. Året efter blev jeg udtaget til Arctic Winter Games 2012 i Whitehorse i Canada. Vi spillede os i finalen, men tabte til Yamal Russia. Det viste sig, at jeg blev topscorer i turneringen. I 2014 vandt vi Arctic Winter Games med mig som topscorer igen. Efterskole i Silkeborg I sommeren 2012 flyttede Ari Hermann til Danmark for at gå på efterskole i Silkeborg. Årsagen ti,l han tog på efterskole var selvfølgelig, fordi

der skulle være mulighed for mere fodbold i hans hverdag. - Det var helt fantastisk at spille og træne hver eneste dag. Mens jeg gik på efterskolen, spillede jeg i Silkeborg IF. Da det var slut med efterskolen, flyttede jeg til Viborg. Jeg tænkte, at min chance for at få spilletid, og ikke mindst et gennembrud, ville være større i Viborg. - Det viste sig også, at mine ambitioner blev mere end opfyldt. Jeg var glad for at skifte klub og har slet ikke fortrudt det på noget tidspunkt. - Det var faktisk min træner i B-67, Rene Olsen, der også er landstræner, som anbefalede at jeg skulle spille i Silkeborg IF. Klubben havde gode ungdomshold i forskellige årgange. Klubbens U17 var dengang et af Danmarks bedste. Da jeg selv hørte til årgang 17, startede jeg træningen i klubben og kom på 2-holdet. Jeg kæmpede hårdt for at komme på det bedste hold, men det lykkedes aldrig for alvor at komme helt tæt på. - Hvis jeg skulle have opfyldt mine ambitioner, måtte jeg finde en anden klub. Min far hjalp mig meget, for jeg gik jo i skole, og studierne skulle gerne kunne kombineres med at spille fodbold på et højt niveau.

- Valget faldt på Viborg, og det gik rigtig godt. Jeg udvikler mig konstant og har lært utroligt meget i Viborg. Jeg startede med at træne på 2holdet. Fik chancen for at træne med førsteholdet på U17, og der er jeg nu fast på holdet. Tager kosten seriøst Fodbolden har altid været det helt store for Ari Hermann. Og han ved godt, at fodbold ikke gør det alene. Livsstilen skal omlægges, og der skal tænkes på kosten også. - Det begyndte jeg for alvor at tænke på, da jeg startede på efterskolen. Her havde vi timer på skemaet om vores kost, og det var let nok at tage fat på, da flere af mine kammerater levede meget sundt. - Jeg tog det meget seriøst, og når man brænder for fodbold, som jeg gør, og ens drøm er at blive professionel fodboldspiller, så skal det hele gå op i en højere enhed, og der hører kosten også med. - Mit helt store idol har altid været Lionel Messi. Han er mit idol, fordi jeg elsker den måde, han spiller fodbold på. Årsagen til, at fodbold er min store lidenskab, må også tilskrives min far Arne, der er helt vild med fodbold. - Fodbolden betyder alt for mig, og jeg træner hver ene-


ste dag. Allerede på efterskolen trænede jeg 6-7 gange om ugen. I Viborg er træningsmængden den samme, jeg styrketræner dog lidt mere nu, end jeg gjorde før. - Mine ambitioner med fodbolden er at blive rigtig god til det. Jeg er ligeglad med, hvor jeg spiller, hvis jeg bare opnår min drøm, så er jeg lykkelig, siger Ari. - I efteråret 2014 blev jeg udtaget til Grønlands landshold. Det var rigtigt stort for mig at blive udtaget og repræsentere mit land. Jeg var mega stolt. Jeg fik desværre ikke så meget spilletid, da jeg blev skadet. Scorer mange mål Det første år i Danmark var ret hårdt for Ari. Han havde ikke forventet, at det var så hårdt, som det egentligt var. Tilvænningen til de danske forhold var stor. - Jeg skulle vænne mig til at spille på græs og så bo så langt hjemmefra. Det krævede sin mand. Efter det første år gik det hele meget bedre, og livet var fedt. Jeg begyndte at udvikle mig og forbedre mig på flere forskellige stadier. - Efterårssæsonen i Viborg var rigtig god i starten. Jeg gjorde de ting, man skulle på banen, og jeg scorede mange mål og fik megen ros af mine trænere. Det gav mig en vis

Ari Hermann in a breakthrough in the final at the Arctic Winter Games. Ari's debut in the U19 division last spring – he was brought in the game against AB with about 10 minutes left at the score 2-0 to FK Viborg, and scored the last goal, resulting in a victory of 3-0. The picture is from Viborg Stadium after the game, Ari with the coach Steffen Højer.

glæde, stolthed, og så tog jeg det roligt sidst på sæsonen. Måske for roligt, for jeg scorede ikke så mange mål i slutningen af sæsonen. I 13 kampe scorede jeg ni mål. Utrolig spændende spiller Ari Hermann kan meget vel være en kommende grønlandsk A-landsholdsspiller. Det er nemlig sjældent, at grønlandske spillere gør sig på det niveau, som den 18-årige angriber gør sig på FK Viborgs U19-hold. - Efter grønlandske forhold er han en utrolig spændende spiller. Han er klart en af de mest talentfulde i Grønland. Og at han gør det godt i Viborg, er kun positivt, sagde Jens Tang Olesen til Viborg Folkeblad efter en kamp sidste efterår. - Udendørsfodbold er suverænt den største idræt i Grønland. Men man spiller på dårlige grusbaner om sommeren og indendørs om vinteren. Og det er lidt en skam, for det giver sig selv, at de ikke kan få den udvikling som fodboldspillere, som en typisk dansk spiller kan få, forklarer træneren, der har haft berøring med grønlandsk fodbold i 15 år. - Tingene har udviklet sig i Grønland, men rundt om i verden har tingene bare udviklet sig endnu mere. Jeg har

foto/Photo: Arne Hermann

foto/Photo: John Jakobsen

Aris debut i U19 divisionen sidste forår - han kom ind mod AB med cirka 10 minutter tilbage ved stillingen 2-0 til FK Viborg og scorede til 3-0. Billedet er fra Viborg Stadion efter kampen, hvor Ari ses med træneren Steffen Højer.

Ari Hermann i et gennembrud i finalen ved Arctic Winter Games.

tidligere været træner i Viborg FF, og dengang var der to jordbaner, hvor der nu er to kunstgræsbaner. Det giver spillere i Viborg nogle fantastiske muligheder, som man ikke har i Grønland, siger Jens Tang Olesen til avisen. Godt eksempel for andre Netop derfor var han glad for, at en spiller som Ari Hermann tager springet til Danmark. Dermed får den unge spiller nemlig mulighed for at udvikle sig akkurat som jævnaldrende danskere. - Ari er så priviligeret, at han har sin far relativt tæt på. For det er en udfordring for grønlandske spillere, at de møder en helt anden kultur i Danmark. Men han har faderen med og har dermed en social opbakning og støtte i de perioder, hvor det er lidt træls. Og det giver ham ekstra gode muligheder her i Viborg. Endnu en grønlandsk spiller gør sig på 2-holdet i Viborg, og Jens Tang Olesen vil ikke tøve med at anbefale Viborg til andre grønlandske spillere, der har mod på at prøve fodboldlykken i Danmark. - Man kunne godt forestille sig, at han var et eksempel for andre. Jeg får fra tid til anden henvendelser fra spillere, der gerne vil have forbindelse med klubber i Danmark. Og nu kender vi Viborg

og synes, at det er et godt sted. Jeg kender Predrag Bojanic (talentchef, red.) og ved, hvor god han er til at tage sig af de unge mennesker, så jeg vil helt klart anbefale stedet og har også gjort det, siger Jens Tang Olesen, der ser det som et plus, hvis Ari Hermanns far, Arne Hermann, fortsat er i området, da han kan tale grønlandsk, og derfor vil være en god støtte for unge grønlændere med fodboldambitioner. Island Games til sommer Grønlands A-landshold skal til juni spille med ved Island Games på Jersey. Og det var med henblik på en udtagelse til det mesterskab, at Jens Tang Olesen var i Viborg for at bese det grønlandske stortalent. - Nu er det ikke mig, der skal udtage ham, men hvis han holder den standard og udvikling, som han har gang i og bliver ved med at spille på græs, så har han virkelig gode muligheder. Jeg kan ikke love ham noget, men han vil have gode chancer for at slå igennem på seniorlandsholdet. Nu har han jo fået de samme betingelser som de danske spillere og træner en syv-otte gange om ugen« sagde Jens Tang Olesen.

23 2015

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After the game against Hvidovre . 2-0 was the final score – Ari scored both goals and was named the player of the game. Here he gets kisses from his older sister Aviaaja.

foto/Photo: John Jakobsen

Efter kampen mod Hvidovre på udebane. 2-0 blev resultatet – Ari scorede begge mål og blev kampens spiller. Her får han kys af storesøster Aviaaja.

The talent is obvious

The former Team Greenland coach, Jens Tang Olesen, speaks highly about Ari Hermann to Viborg Folkeblad.

- the future looks promising foto/Photo: Arne Hermann

The 18-year-old Ari Hermann is a great soccer talent. He is pursuing a career in sport and has moved to Denmark, where he plays for Viborg. Text: John Jakobsen

The biggest sport in Greenland is soccer. Greenland has fostered many talents over the years, but the big breakthrough has been long in coming. A new great talent aims, within the next years, to really break through. It is the 18-year-old Ari Hermann, who grew up in Nanortalik. Right now he plays on grass fields in Viborg. - I have always loved soccer. I played soccer in the living room with my dad, we used chairs as goals from I was very little. My mother or sister were not particularly happy about it, but we did it anyway, Ari Hermann says. - Nanortalik is a small town in Southern Greenland, and soccer is not played by many in the town. Nor were there many boys who played soccer and I had a hard time finding friends who wanted to play soccer with me. - I had my first big experience when I was around 6-7 years old I. My father, Arne Hermann, had to work some months in Vancouver in Canada, so we went. I was ecstatic when my father told me, that there were grass fields in Vancouver. I wanted to try to play on grass, an opportunity that wasn't possible in Greenland. It took a very long time to find a club. Eventually we managed to find a club just 66

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outside Vancouver, and it was absolutely great to play on grass. - We moved to Nuuk when I was almost 9 years old. It was a little strange to move to a big city to begin with. I got used to it, and realized that there were many opportunities in Nuuk compared to in Nanortalik. I started playing in a club called GSS until I was around 13-14 years. I changed club to B-67, as it was a more serious club, and I really wanted to get better at playing soccer. I had to work really hard to achieve my goals in B-67. - I got much better training and challenges, and it was just what I needed. I participated in GM (National Championship) at age 14 in 2011. The following year I got selected to Arctic Winter Games 2012 in Whitehorse, Canada. We made it to the finals, but lost to Yamal Russia. It turned out that I was the top scorer in the tournament. We won gold at Arctic Winter Games in 2014, with me as the top scorer again. Boarding school in Silkeborg Ari Hermann moved to Denmark to attend boarding school in Silkeborg during the summer of 2012. The reason he went to boarding

school was, of course, because there would be time for more soccer in his life. - It was absolutely fantastic to play and train every day. While I was at boarding school, I played for Silkeborg IF. I moved to Viborg when the year ended at the boarding school. I thought my chance to get playing time, and not least, a breakthrough would be greater in Viborg. - It turned out that my ambitions were more than satisfied. I was happy to change clubs, and have not regretted once. - It was actually my coach in B-67, Rene Olsen, who is also the coach for the National Team of Greenland, who recommended that I should play for Silkeborg IF. The club had good youth teams on many levels. The club's U17 was one of Denmark's best. When I reached the age 17 level, I started training at the club and was on the 2nd best team. I fought hard to get on the best team, but never managed to get close to it. - I had to find another club to fulfill my ambitions. My dad helped me a lot because I was attending school, and studies should be combined with playing soccer at a high level. - The choice became Viborg and it went really well.

Den tidligere landstræner i fodbold for Grønland, Jens Tang Olesen, taler meget positivt om Ari Hermann til Viborg Folkeblad.

My skills developed constantly, and I have learned a lot in Viborg. I started on the 2nd best team. Got the chance to train with the best team at the U17 level, and I am now on that team. Taking diet seriously Soccer has always been Ari Hermann greatest passion. He knows that playing soccer isn't all there is to it. The lifestyle must be reorganized, and he has to think about his diet as well. - I really began to think about it when I attended boarding school. We had a class on nutrition and it was easy for me to follow the suggested changes, as several of my friends lived very healthy. - I took it very seriously. When you are as passionate about soccer as I am, and your dream is to become a professional footballer, then it all go up in a higher unity and that also includes diet. - My big idol has always been Lionel Messi. He is my idol because I love the way he plays. I can thank my father Arne that soccer became my passion, because he is as crazy about soccer as I am. - Soccer means everything to me, and I exercise every day. I trained 6-7 times a week at boarding school. I train as much in Viborg, but


foto/Photo: John Jakobsen

Ari Hermann scores one of his many goals at the Arctic Winter Games in Whitehorse in 2012. Ari Hermann scorer et af sine mange m책l ved Arctic Winter Games i Whitehorse i 2012.

I do a bit more strength train now than I did before. - My ambition is to get really good at playing soccer. I do not care where I play, as long as I can live out my dream I am happy, Ari says. - I was selected to join the National Team of Greenland in the fall of 2014. It meant a lot to me to be selected and represent my country. I was very proud. Unfortunately I did not do much playing time as I was injured. Scores many goals The first year in Denmark was quite hard for Ari. He did not expect that it would be as hard as it really was. Getting used to the Danish conditions was hard. - I had to get used to playing on grass, and then live so far from home. Big changes required great strength. Everything went much better after the first year, and life was again great. I began to develop my skills and improve on many levels. - Fall season in Viborg was really good in the beginning. I did the things you had to do on the field, and I scored many goals, and was praised by my coaches. It brought me joy, pride, and I took it more easy towards the end of the season. Maybe too easy, because I did not score

as many goals at the end of the season. I scored nine goals in 12 games. Incredibly exciting player Ari Hermann may well be a future Greenlandic A team player. It is rare that a Greenlandic players makes it to the level that the 18-year-old striker has achieved on FK Viborg's U19 team. - He is a very exciting player when you look at it as a player from Greenland. He is clearly one of the most talented from Greenland. And the fact that he is doing well in Viborg is only positive, Jens Tang Olesen says to Viborg Folkeblad after a game last fall. - Outdoor soccer is by far the biggest sport in Greenland, but they play on bad gravel or soil fields during summer and indoors during winter. And it is somewhat a shame, because it goes without saying that they can not get the optimal development as soccer players , like a typical Danish player can, says the coach who has been involved in the soccer world of Greenland for 15 years says. - Things have evolved in Greenland, but around the world, things have evolved even more. I have previously been a coach for Viborg

FF, and at that time there were on two soil courts, but today they have two artificial grass fields. It gives players in Viborg amazing opportunities that you don't have in Greenland, Jens Olesen Tang says to the newspaper. Good example for others That is exactly why he is glad that a player like Ari Hermann made the leap to move to Denmark. This gives the young player the opportunity to evolve at the same level as his peers in Denmark. - Ari is very privileged that he has his father relatively close by. It is a challenge for Greenlandic players that they face a completely different culture in Denmark. But Ari has his father close by for social support and support in challenging periods. And this enhances his opportunities here in Viborg. There is another Greenlandic player in Viborg, he is on the B team in Viborg, and Jens Tang Olesen does not hesitate to recommend other Greenlandic players to join Viborg. To find the courage to pursue their soccer dream in Denmark. - You can say that he is an example for others. Players who want to get connected to clubs in Denmark contact me once in a while. And now

we know Viborg and can only recommend it. I know Predrag Bojanic (talent manager, Ed.) and know how good he is to take care of young people, so I would definitely recommend the place and I have done that, Jens Tang Olesen says, who sees it as a plus that Ari Hermann's father, Arne Hermann remain in the area because he speaks Greenlandic, and therefore will be a good support for young Greenlanders with soccer ambitions. Island Games this summer Greenland'a National A Team is participating in the Island Games in Jersey in June. And that was the reason that Jens Tang Olesen was in Viborg to observe the great Greenlandic talent, as a part of the selection round for the team. - I can only say that, if he keeps his standard and development and continues to play on grass, he will have really good opportunities, even though it isn't me who is in charge of selecting players. I can not promise him anything, but he will have a good chance of being on the Senior National Team. He has been given the same conditions as the Danish players and practice 7-8 times a week, Jens Tang Olesen says. 23 2015

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erhverv / business www.make.gl

&

Anderledes

nytænkende Tekst: greenland today

En af Grønlands kommende grafikere, Malik Chemnitz, har i to billeder givet sit syn på ungdomsmoden i dag. Herremodellen er inspireret af et foto af ham selv, iført en T-shirt fra designer Bibi Chemnitz med print formet som et hjerte. »Small Time Giants« er et grønlandsk band / red. Damemodellen er iført strømpebukser med inspiration hentet fra den grønlandske nationaldragt og har desuden fået gamle stamme-tatoveringer i ansigtet af den lovende unge grafiker. Malik kommer oprindeligt fra Qaqortoq i Sydgrønland, men er i praktik i Nuuk kombineret med skoleophold i Danmark. Han forventer at være færdiguddannet grafiker i 2016. 68

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Telefon covers Anderledes og nytænkende er det også, når man tager noget eksisterende og giver det et nyt udtryk med gamle og kendte motiver. Jens Andersen, der til daglig arbejder med marketing, har i sin fritid sat gang i en hel lille produktion af SmartPhone covers med grønlandske motiver. Det har været en stor succes, og efterspørgslen har været overvældende. Moskuskranie I dag produceres mange grønlandske tupilakker og andet kunsthåndværk i rensdyrtak, da Grønlands rensdyr ikke er en truet dyreart, men findes i tusindevis over store dele af kysten. Horn fra

moskusokser bruges også i grønlandsk kunsthåndværk på forskellig vis. Her har Kaare Sylvest Pedersen dog ikke nøjedes med et stykke horn, men har dekoreret et helt moskuskranie på smukkeste vis.


Different &

original Text: greenland today

One of Greenland’s coming graphic designers, Malik Chemnitz, has given his view of youth today in two pictures. The male model is inspired by a photo of himself in a T-shirt from designer Bibi Chemnitz with a print of a heart. »Small Time Giants« is a Greenlandic band/ Ed. The female model is dressed in tights inspired by the Greenlandic national costume and the promising young graphic designer has also given her face an old tribal tattoo. Malik comes from Qaqortoq in South Greenland and he is training at a workplace in Nuuk combined with periods at school in Denmark. He expects to qualify as a graphic designer in 2016. Telephone covers It can also be different and original when you take something that already exists and give it a new expression with old and familiar motifs.

Jens Andersen, who works with marketing, has used his spare time to start up a small production of smart phone covers with Greenlandic motifs. This has been very successful and demand has been overwhelming. Musk-ox skull Today, many Greenlandic tupilaks and other handicraft items are made of

reindeer antler, because Greenland’s reindeer are not an endangered species. There are thousands of them spread out in the coastal regions. Musk-ox horn is also used in Greenlandic handicraft in various ways. Here, Kaare Sylvest Pedersen has not made do with one horn; he has decorated a whole musk-ox skull in the most beautiful way.

Mobile Broadband

Get easy access to the internet with Mobile Broadband in all major cities in Greenland. For all your opportunities visit the local TELE-POST Centre.

www.tele.gl

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Stay connected


oplevelser / adventure

Thule - en kæmpe oplevelse

»Jeg har lært meget af Grønlands ekstreme natur, og har mange personlige erfaringer med hjem i kufferten«, fortæller Jonas Beyer Petersen, der arbejdede 1,5 år på Thule Air Base. Tekst: Mads Nordlund, Foto: Jonas Beyer Petersen

Fra 2012 til 2013 arbejdede 26-årige Jonas Beyer Petersen som bl.a. fitnessinstruktør og guide på Thule Air Bases aktivitetscenter. - Jeg tog primært jobbet for at opleve Grønland, jeg havde drømt om at se i mange år. Jeg havde set mange billeder fra Grønland og har altid været fascineret af dyrelivet og naturen . - Jeg har fotograferet i mange år, men i Thule tog min interesse for alvor fart, og jeg fik opgraderet mit fotoudstyr,

Jonas Beyer Petersen i Thule med minus 40 grader celsius. Jonas Beyer Petersen in Thule at minus 40 degrees Celsius. 70

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mens jeg var der. Det var meget intenst at fotografere dyr og ligge i timevis og vente, til dyrene kom tæt nok på. Ude året rundt Fritiden gik med at være ude, også om vinteren, selvom det var koldt og mørkt. Jonas tog det som en udfordring at fotografere i mørket, når der nu alligevel var tre måneder med polarnat uden sol. Det gav ham også en større indsigt i sig selv at være alene ude mange lange nætter. - Det var spændende, når man lå i mørket og ventede. Så lyste jeg rundt bag mig en gang imellem for at se, om der var nogle »gæster«. - En gang fulgte jeg et par isbjørnespor. Til sidst stoppede jeg og stillede


Vandrefalk på vingerne. Peregrine Falcon in flight.

Dette foto er taget med selvudløser, så det er Jonas selv der står på billedet. De 25 sekunder lukketiden på kameraet varer for at fange stjernerne, når der at komme flere stjerneskud, der ses som streger på billedet.

mit stillads op for at fotografere et bjerg med stjernehimmel bagved. - Da jeg lyste med lygten, var der et par skinnende øjne forude. Jeg troede, det var isbjørnen, og fik hurtigt kameraet pakket sammen og løb tilbage til min bil. Det viste sig at være en ræv, men hjertet sad oppe i halsen, smiler han. - Vi havde også engang en sulten isbjørn på besøg på basen. Man forsøgte at få den væk, da den jo var til fare for alle, der arbejdede der. Desværre kunne den ikke skræmmes til at forsvinde, så til sidst måtte den aflives af politiet. Rigt dyreliv Jonas har fotograferet rigtig mange ræve og harer.

This photo was taken with a delayed action shutter. The 25-second long exposure was to catch images of the shooting stars which can be seen as lines on the photo.

- Rævene var de foretrukne at fotografere, for de var meget nysgerrige og spændende, og man gik ikke bare lige ud og fandt dem i naturen, fortæller Jonas. - Jeg ledte som regel efter en hule og ventede, til de kom frem, så jeg kunne fotografere dem i deres naturlige omgivelser. I juni måned fik jeg en hel del billeder af et kuld med syv rævehvalpe. - Jeg fandt også en rede med vandrefalke, og da de er utroligt beskyttende, satte jeg mig tæt på reden. Så havde de voksne fugle nemlig travlt med at sikre, at jeg ikke kom for tæt på, hvilket gav gode muligheder for nærbilleder. Ungen havde et helt blåt næb, og det var sjovt at se, moderen træne den med rigtig mange flyvetimer. 23 2015

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Unikke naturoplevelser En stor inspirationskilde for Jonas var hans kollega Morten Hilmer. - Vi pakkede tit bilen og tog afsted på fototur, når vi havde fri. Af og til lånte vi en hytte ude i fjeldet, men det blev ikke til megen søvn, når der skulle fotograferes hele natten, hvor rævene rendte rundt omkring hytten både sommer og vinter.

Tæt på basen fandt Jonas en naturlig lomme i fjeldet, hvor han tog op for at være sig selv og nyde naturen, mens han reflekterede over hverdagen. - Naturen er fantastisk, og den havde en stor indvirkning på mig, forklarer Jonas. - Det var også spændende at sejle, og se de kæmpe isbjerge i vandet og flokke af moskusokser på land.

- Om vinteren var vi ude på havisen, men selvom vi så en del sæler, var de for langt væk til, at jeg kunne fotografere dem, og forsvundet inden vi kunne komme tæt nok på. Mere Grønland - Jeg kunne godt tænke mig at se meget mere af Grønland. Jeg er slet ikke færdig med Grønlands storslåede og ekstreme natur. - Det er unikt med de store afstande og fantastisk med den kolde og helt friske luft. Man føler en frihed, når man ser storslået natur, så langt øjet rækker. Jonas vil også gerne se mere af den grønlandske kultur, efter han besøgte byen Qaanaaq og den nedlagte bygd Moriusaq. - Det er jo kun toppen af isbjerget, jeg har set, og jeg vil rigtig gerne opleve resten af Grønland, slutter Jonas Beyer Petersen.

En vandrefalk mor og unge holder pause i flyvetræningen. A Peregrine Falcon mother and chick take a break from flying lessons. 72

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oplevelser / adventure

Thule - a huge experience From 2012 to 2013, 26-year old Jonas Beyer Petersen worked as a fitness instructor and guide in the activities centre at Thule Air Base. - I took the job mainly to experience Greenland, which I had dreamed of seeing for many years. I have seen many pictures of Greenland and I have always been fascinated by its wildlife and nature. - I have taken photographs for many years, but in Thule I became really interested and I upgraded all my photographic equipment while I was there. Photographing animals is very intense – lying for hours waiting for the animals to get close enough. Outdoors all year round Spare time was spent outdoors, even though it was cold and dark. Jonas took it as a challenge to take photographs in the dark, since the polar night meant three months without sun. Being out alone for many long nights

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»I have learned a lot from the extreme nature in Greenland and I took many personal experiences home with me«, says Jonas Beyer Petersen, who worked for a year and a half at Thule Air Base. Text: Mads Nordlund, Photo: Jonas Beyer Petersen

also gave him a greater insight in himself. - It was exciting to lay waiting in the dark. Occasionally I shone my torch around to see if there were any »guests«. - Once, I followed a couple of polar bear tracks. In the end, I stopped and set up my tripod to take a photo of a mountain with the starry sky in the background. - When I shone my torch, there was a pair of shining eyes ahead. I thought it was a polar bear and quickly packed away my camera and ran back to my car. It turned out to be a fox, but it scared the life out of me, he says with a smile. - We once had a hungry polar bear on the base. Attempts were made to scare it off, because it was a danger to everyone who worked there. Unfortunately, it could not be scared off, so in the end the police were forced to put it down.

Rich wildlife Jonas has photographed a great number of foxes and hares. - The foxes were favourites because they were very inquisitive and interesting and they are not something you just go out and find, says Jonas. - I usually looked for a burrow and waited for them to come out so I could photograph them in their natural habitat. In June, I got many photos of a litter of seven fox pups. - I also found a Peregrine Falcon nest. They are very protective, so while I sat next to the nest the parents were busy ensuring I didn’t get too close and this gave me an opportunity to take some close-ups. The chick’s beak was quite blue and it was fun to watch the mother give it hours of flying lessons. Unique nature experiences Jonas found a great source of inspiration in his colleague Morten Hilmer.


Fox cubs playing in newly-fallen snow in June. RĂŚvehvalpene leger i den nyfaldne sne i juni mĂĽned.

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Jonas’ favourite place was a small natural pocket with a view of the Dundas Mountain. He often went here to relax. Jonas yndlingssted var en lille naturlomme med udsigt til Dundasbjerget. Her tog han tit ud for at koble af.

- In the winter, we went out on the sea ice and although we saw plenty of seals, they were too far away to photograph and they disappeared before we could get close enough.

The polar bear thought the car Jonas and his friend were sitting in was interesting, so it came up close.

Isbjørnen synes, bilen Jonas og hans ven sad i, var interessant, så den kom helt tæt på.

- We often packed the car and took off on a photo trip in our spare time. Sometimes we borrowed a cabin in the fells, but we didn’t get much sleep. We spent all night taking photos of the foxes that ran around outside the cabin both summer and winter. Close to the base Jonas found a na-

tural pocket in the fells where he went to spend some time alone and to enjoy nature and reflect on life. - Nature is wonderful and it had a huge impact on me, explains Jonas. - It was also exciting to sail out and see the huge icebergs in the water and herds of musk-oxen on land.

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More Greenland - I would like to see more of Greenland. I am not finished with Greenland’s magnificent and extreme nature. - The wide open spaces are unique and the cold, fresh air is wonderful. There is a feeling of freedom when you see such magnificent nature stretching as far as the eye can see. Jonas would like to see more of Greenland’s nature after visiting Qaanaaq and the derelict settlement of Moriusaq. - I have only seen the tip of the iceberg and I would really like to experience the rest of Greenland, ends Jonas Beyer Petersen.


Greenland Greenland remains one of the least explored frontiers and hosts an impressive variety of mineral deposits and geological environments. Interest from mineral exploration and mining companies has been growing steadily in recent years and Greenland scored highest in the 2012/2013 Fraser Institute Current Mineral Potential Index. This was not just based on its mineral potential but also on being a safe, stable, mining-friendly jurisdiction, with a modern mining code and straightforward permitting processes. Greenland hosts several world-class deposits and a growing portfolio of promising prospects, having attracted major investment from companies such as Anglo American, Boliden and London Mining. Greenland has been an important focus of SRK ES’ work in recent years.

SRK ES offers; Experience of all stages of the exploration process including; country-wide and local prospectivity analysis, assistance with licence acquisitions, exploration programme design, implementation and management for a wide range of projects from grass-roots mapping and sampling to resource drilling, as well as independent technical reporting. Knowledge. Our staff have more than 25 years combined experience of operating in Greenland and close links to Geological Survey of Denmark and Greenland. SRK ES have significant experience of the logisitical challenges of working in Greenland and as such have an intimate understanding of safe working practices, in-country logistical support, climatic and social conditions as well as the geological complexity. Quality services tailored to the client’s needs and the technical requirements of every project. By specifying and undertaking all exploration activities in line with international best practices, SRK ES ensures that results are accurate, representative and provide the foundations

for informed and independent professional opinions. Recent SRK ES projects have included:  Iron Ore: Melville Bugt (Red Rock Resources)  Precious Metals: Skaergaard PGM-Au (Platina Resources) plus reconnaissance fieldwork in South and East Greenland.  Speciality Metals: Motzfeldt Ta-Nb-Zr-REE (Ram Resources), Kangerlussuaq Alkaline Complex, plus a number of prospectivity reviews and reconnaissance fieldwork programmes.  Base Metals: Prospectivity reviews, target generation and fatal flaw analysis for projects in a number of regions around Greenland. SRK ES Denmark, is a Danish-registered company and benefits from the unique tax agreement between Greenland and Denmark. This offers relief from the 33% tax on profit (plus 35% personnel tax) that is charged to other foreign-registered operating in Greenland. Therefore SRK ES can offer their services across Greenland at favourable rates.

Additional expertise in all aspects of the mining industry is available through the global SRK Group so SRK ES is well placed to assist clients at any stage of mineral exploration in Greenland. To find out more about our technical services or discuss your project specific needs, please contact us; SRK ES ES Denmark Denmark SRK Skindergade 38, 2 Skindergade 38, 2 K 1159 Copenhagen Denmark 1159 Copenhagen K

SRK SRK Exploration Exploration Services Services Ltd Ltd 12 St. Andrews Crescent 12 St. Andrews Crescent Cardiff CF10 Cardiff3DD United Kingdom CF10 3DD

Copenhagen: +45 088 71 UK: +44 272 (0) 2920 233 233 UK: +44 (0) 2920 233 233 Moscow: +7 (495) (495) 692 692 24 24 28 28 Moscow: +7 greenland today 77 23 2015 Email: Copenhagen: enquiries@srkexploration.com +45 272 088 71 Web: www.srkexploration.com


erhverv / business

Hotel Kulusuk

Ankommer man til Hotel Kulusuk en vinterdag, hvor hotellet er omgivet af sne, så langt øjet rækker, synes det at ligge midt i ingenting. Og alligevel er hotellet placeret midt i alting, nemlig Tekst: greenland today midt i den storslåede østgrønlandske natur.

Kulusuk lufthavn i Østgrønland er godt besøgt. Her er forbindelse til Grønlands vestkyst og Island. Især om sommeren kommer der mange turister fra Island, og der er ofte 2-3 Air Iceland flyvere ad gangen. En hel del vælger at blive enten på Hotel Kulusuk eller på søsterhotellet Hotel Angmagssalik i Tasiilaq kun 10 minutters flyvetur herfra med helikopter. Der går en vej mellem lufthavnen og Kulusuk bygd. Her kan man vælge selv at gå eller blive kørt om sommeren. Om vinteren er det mere udfordrende. Der er som regel rigtig meget sne, og snekanterne fra snerydningen kan være flere meter høje. Det svinger meget, hvor længe der er vinter her, men de senere år har der stadig været sne 1. juni. Midt mellem lufthavnen og bygden ligger Hotel Kulusuk, og vejen fra hotellet ind til bygden kan ikke altid holdes 78

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åben hele vinteren. Derfor stopper vejen fra lufthavnen her i en stor snebunke, da greenland today besøger hotellet i marts 2014. Længere fremme, hvor vejen går ned i en slugt, har sneen nemlig samlet sig i 8-10 meters højde. Skal man til bygden, kan man bestille en snescooter eller tage en af de »hundeslæde taxier«, der holder udenfor lufthavnen. Måske er Kulusuk det eneste sted i verden, hvor man har den mulighed udenfor en international lufthavn. Mange turister Det eneste tidspunkt, hotellet holder lukket, er fra 20. december til 2. januar hvert år. Om vinteren er der pænt besøg hele tiden. Blandt andet en del teknikkere og andre, der skal besøge Kulusuk arbejdsmæssigt. Der strander også en del flypassagerer, når vejret driller. I hele sommersæsonen er

Hotel Kulusuk fuldt belagt fra ca. 1. juni til 1. oktober. Typisk har gæsterne kun en overnatning he, i kombination med et besøg på Island. De fleste er fra Fjernøsten og mange af dem er pensionister. Typisk fra Taiwan, Malaysia, Indonesien, Japan og Kina. En del af gæsterne er også amerikanere og tyskere, kun meget få fra Danmark. En anderledes arbejdsplads Hotelbestyrer Jesper Krogh har det daglige ansvar for hotellet. I alt arbejder der fire hele året og to ekstra om sommeren. Jesper skulle egentlig kun have været her som guide i en måned, men har nu været her over seks år. Hans kæreste fra bygden Kuummiut arbejder også på hotellet. - Jeg var ved at skifte studie i København og havde en ven her fra Grønland. Da vi begge var lidt trætte

af Danmark, tog vi herop, fortæller Jesper. - Efter en måned følte jeg ikke, at jeg havde set ret meget, så vi startede i job. Siden er årene bare gået, og jeg har rykket min studiestart i Danmark to gange, inden jeg blev helt frameldt. - Det er en god arbejdsplads, og jeg er rigtig glad for at være her, siger han. - Det er ikke mange steder, man oplever det samme som her. Naturen og vejret er unikt og skifter fra sæson til sæson. Selvfølgelig hjælper det også med til at holde mig her, at jeg har fået en kæreste, smiler han. - I 2009 var der en stor isbjørn på landingsbanen i lufthavnen, og i 2013 gik der en isbjørnemor med to unger forbi ude på fjordisen. Hvor ser man ellers det, slutter Jesper Krogh. Oplevelser Vinteren med de enorme


Fakta om Hotel Kulusuk n 34 dobbeltværelser med eget bad og toilet. n Fuld forplejning i egen restaurant. n Hotellet er røgfrit. Se mere n arcticwonder.com

snemasser og ekstreme vejrforhold både temperatur og vindmæssigt er for mange en stor oplevelse. Desuden er der rigtig meget nordlys både forår og efterår. En tur på snescooter eller hundeslæde er også i høj kurs blandt turisterne. Chancerne for at se en isbjørn er ikke ret store, og ikke noget Hotellet reklamerer med. Men det er svært ikke at tænke på, at man er i isbjørneland, når man går alene på vejen fra lufthavnen til hotellet mellem de høje snesider. Hele året rundt kan man besøge Kulusuk bygd og blandt andet se det lille, men meget spændende museum. Bygdens butik er også et besøg værd, både for at se udvalget og priserne, men ikke mindst for at møde bygdens venlige befolkning. I midten af byen lyder der en del hujen og høje grin, når skolen holder frikvarter. Et par hunde skiftes også til

Hotelbestyrer / Hotel manager Jesper Krogh.

at hyle lidt, men ellers er der ingen støj i Kulusuk. Man følges nøje af de ældres smiNordBo_m.adresse.indd lende øjne, når man vandrer rundt som turist i bygden, og her hilser man stadig på folk – også fremmede. Hotel Kulusuk er en del af Artic Wonder-gruppen og kan derfor tilbyde mange forskellige ture og udflugter. Om vinteren med hundeslæde eller snescooter, om sommeren fjordsejlads mellem isbjergene, køretur til den tidligere amerikanske DYE 4 station, vandretur til den nærliggende gletsjer, byvandring og mange andre ture med og uden guide. Men uanset, hvor man bevæger sig hen i Kulusuk området, er udsigten til de omkringliggende bjerge fantastisk. Her har istidens iskappe ikke skåret bjergtoppene af, så de spidse bjergtinder knejser mod himlen, så langt øjet rækker.

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erhverv / business

Hotel Kulusuk If you come to Hotel Kulusuk on a winter’s day, when the hotel is surrounded by snow as far as the eye can see, it seems to be located in the middle of nowhere. And yet the hotel is actually located in the middle of it all - East Greenland’s magnificent nature. Text: greenland today

Kulusuk Airport in East Greenland has a lot of visitors. From here there are connections to West Greenland and Iceland. In the summer in particular there are many tourists from Iceland and there are often 2-3 Air Iceland aircraft at the same time. Many of these tourists choose to stay at Hotel Kulusuk or at its sister hotel Hotel Angmagssalik in Tasiilaq just a ten-minute helicopter flight away. There is a road that runs between the airport and the village of Kulusuk. In the summer, you can either walk or get a ride. In the winter it is more of a challenge. There is usually a lot of snow and the banks of cleared snow that line the road can be several metres high. The length of the winters here varies, but in recent years there has still been snow on June 1st. Between the airport and the village lies Hotel Kulusuk and the road from the hotel to the village cannot always 80

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be kept open all winter. This is why the road from the airport ends in a huge pile of snow, when greenland today visits the hotel in March 2014. Further on, where the road goes into a ravine the snow lies 8-10 meters deep. If you want to go to the village, you must order a snowmobile or take one of the »dog sled taxies« that wait at the airport. Kulusuk may be the only place in the world, where you can do this at an international airport. Many tourists The only time the hotel is closed is from December 20th to January 2nd every year. In the winter, there are always many visitors. These include technicians and others who visit Kulusuk for work. There are also a number of airline passengers who get stranded when the weather is bad. Throughout the summer season Hotel Kulusuk is fully booked from about June 1st

until October 1st. Guests typically only have one overnight stay here, in combination with a trip to Island. Most of them are from the Far East and many of them are pensioners, typically from Taiwan, Malaysia, Indonesia, Japan and China. Some of the guests are American or German, but only a few are from Denmark. A workplace with a difference Hotel manager Jesper Krogh has the day-to-day responsibility for the hotel. There are four full-time staff members and two extra employees in the summer. Jesper was really only supposed to stay here for one month as a guide, but he has now been here for more than six years. His girlfriend from the village of Kuummiut also works at the hotel. - I was taking a study break in Copenhagen and I had a friend from Greenland.

We were both a little tired of Denmark, so we came up here, says Jesper. - After a month, I felt that I had not seen very much, so I started to work. The years have just gone by since then and I moved the date for starting my studies in Denmark twice, until I dropped out completely. - It is a good workplace and I am really happy to be here, he says. - There are not many places where you can experience what you can here. Nature and the weather are unique, changing from season to season. Of course, it helps that I have a girlfriend here too, he grins. - In 2009 there was a big polar bear on the runway at the airport and in 2013 a polar bear with two cubs walked past out on the fjord ice. Where else could you see something like that? asks Jesper Krogh.


Facts about Hotel Kulusuk n 34 double rooms with bathroom. n Full board in the hotel restaurant. n The hotel is non-smoking. See more n arcticwonder.com

BOG OM VERDENSARVSOMRÅDET

VED ILULISSAT ISFJORD BOOK about THE WORLD HERITAGE SITE

ILULISSAT ICEFJORD

Experiences Winter, with its huge amounts of snow and weather conditions with extremes of temperature and wind, is a great experience for many people. Furthermore, the Northern lights are abundant, both spring and autumn. Snow scooter and dog sleds trips are also very popular with the tourists. The chance of spotting a polar bear is not very great and it is not something the hotel advertises. But it is hard not to think that you are in polar bear country when you walk alone on the road from the airport to the hotel, between the high mounds of snow. All year round, you can visit the village of Kulusuk and the small but interesting museum. The village store is also worth a visit to see the selection and the prices and especially to meet the friendly villagers. In the centre of town there is a lot of shouting and laughter during school

recess. A couple of dogs also take turns to yip a little, but otherwise there is no noise in Kulusuk. You are followed closely by the smiling eyes of the older citizens when you walk round as a tourist in the village and here people still say hello – even to strangers. Hotel Kulusuk is a part of the Arctic Wonder Group so it offers a wide range of tours and excursions. In the winter there are dog sled or snowmobile trips, in the summer boat trips on the fjord, sailing among the icebergs, drives out to the former American DYE 4 station, hiking trips to the nearby glacier, tours of the village and many other excursions, with or without a guide. Regardless of where you are in the Kulusuk region, the views of the surrounding mountains are fantastic. Here, the Ice Age ice sheet has not cut off the tops of the mountains, so the pointed peaks stretch to the sky as far as the eye can see.

Køb den her/ Buy it here: WWW.GREENLANDTODAY.COM

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oplevelser / adventure

DISCOVERY GREENLAND »Under The Pole« er en række undersøiske polarekspeditioner, der udforsker havet i polarområderne. Målet er at tage unikke billeder og gennemføre videnskabelige projekter indenfor biodiversitet, havmiljø, smeltende is, global opvarmning og dyknings fysiologi I Arktis. Tekst: greenland today, Foto: Lucas Santucci / Under The Pole

Ghislain Bardout ledte sin første dykkerekspedition i 2010 med syv personer under Nordpolen. I 47 dage trak de tunge slæder med udstyr og camperede på isen, mens de gennemførte 51 dykninger. Billederne blev offentliggjort over hele verden, og deres 52 minutters dokumentarfilm »Deepsea Under The Pole« blev vist på National Geographic Channel. Den anden ekspedition »Discovery Greenland« begyndte i januar 2014 82

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efter tre års forberedelse. Ekspeditionen forventes at vare 22 måneder, hvor kysten, havet og havbunden mellem polarcirklen og det nordligste Grønland udforskes. Det tog 2,5 måned at krydse Atlanterhavet med skonnerten »WHY«, og de ankom til Nuuk i slutningen af marts. Ekspeditionens start - Efter at have besøgt Naturinstituttet, som vi samarbejder videnskabeligt med,

fortsatte vores rejse længere mod nord. Vi begyndte at dykke regelmæssigt langs kysten, dybere og dybere i fjordene, og under de gigantiske isbjerge i Ilulissat, fortæller Emmanuelle Périé-Bardout. Hun er dykker og 2. styrmand på skibet samt ansvarlig for ekspeditionens kommunikation. Emanuelle og hendes mand Ghislan har deres tre år gamle søn med ombord på skibet, den yngste eventyrer på ekspeditionen.


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- Ved Diskoøen samarbejdede vi med et dansk videnskabshold ledet af John Steffensen, der undersøger grønlandske hajer. - Vi hjalp med at tage billeder af hajerne. Hajerne blev løsladt efter mærkningen. Mærkningen udføres for at få større forståelse for deres svømmehastighed og migration. - I dette område nød vi også et fantastisk »show«, da vi så grønlandshvaler, der spiste ved overfladen. Vi kunne komme helt tæt på dem og var kun tre meter fra dem. Desværre var det ikke muligt at tage undervandsbilleder, da området var fuld af planteplankton. Længere mod nord Holdet undersøgte dykkeres fysiologi under ekstreme forhold, mens de var i Uummannaq. Projektet er ledet af den franske trykforsker Jean-Eric Blatteau for millitærhospitalet i Toulon og BF Systems, et firma der leder et langsigtet forskningsprogram i samarbejde med de mest moderne institutter og laboratorier fra Forsknings- og Forsvarsministeriet. Et andet forskningsprojekt omkring havis kører I foråret 2015. Det er et samarbejde mellem Under The Pole og Universiteterne i Nuuk og København. - I Uummannaq tilbragte vi også tid med vores ven, børnehjemslederen Ann Andreasen. Vi lærte nogle af børnene begyndende dykkerøvelser og var overrasket over at se, hvor veltilpasset bør-

nene var i vandet. De var virkelig begejstrede for dykning og over at opdage den undersøiske verden i deres region. Det bekræftede en af de største grønlandske kvaliteter: tilpasning. Disse børn kan surfe på facebook, se tv og kender de sidste nye trends, og samtidig tager de på hundeslædeture eller dykker uden frygt, siger Emmanuelle. - Vi redigerede også en lille film, vi kaldte »Underwater Uummannaq« for skolen, for at vise dem, hvad vi kunne se under vandet. Vi tilstræber at inddrage lokalbefolkningen og give noget af vores viden til Grønland undervejs. Vi forlod Uummannaq i begyndelsen af juli og var en lille smule triste over at skulle forlade vores venner og det samfund, der havde været så imødekommende overfor os. Højt nordpå - Vi var spændte på at tage mod det højarktiske i den nordligste del af Grønland. Sejlturen over Melvillebugten bød på fantastisk sceneri og syn af hvaler, sæler, isbjørne og senere moskusokser i store flokke på land. Vi mødte narhvalfangerei midten af Melville-Bugten og nød varme drikke, kager og mattak (hvalspæk), som de varmhjertigt tilbød. - Vi stoppede i de små bygder Aappilattoq, Nuussuaq og Kullorsuaq. Her oplevede vi den grønlandske fangers livsform i Nordgrønland, den barske men rige natur, som de lever i.

Unikke oplevelser - Vi var heldige at komme tæt på narhvaler med vores kajakker, hvilket er en stor, fotografisk souvenir at bringe med hjem. Men den mest surrealistiske oplevelse var dykning i Qaanaaq- Bugten med grønlandske hajer. - Vi troede ikke, det var muligt at se de grønlandske hajer i deres naturlige miljø uden at fodre for at lokke dem frem, fordi de lever på meget dybt vand. Men i slutningen af august, mens vi indsamlede skaller til en af vores videnskabelige undersøgelser, dukkede en haj op lige foran os. Fem minutter efter dukkede en anden haj op. Vi ved ikke, hvorfor de var så tæt på overfladen, men i de følgende dage så vi otte grønlandske hajer. Vi fik fantastiske optagelser til vores dokumentarfilm og til John Steffensens videnskabshold. Qaanaaq - Da vi ankom tll Qaanaaq var vores to dybdedykkere – Ghislain og Martin – klar til at prøve deres første meget dybe dyk. De nåede ned til 102 meter tæt på Qeqertat for enden af bugten. På denne dybde er alt mørkt, men her lever stadig dyr og planter. Fra overfladen og 80 meter ned var der fyldt med farver. - I Qaanaaq redigerede vi en anden kortfilm; "Underwater Qaanaaq" til den lokale skole. Vi mødte mange dejlige mennesker og har fået større forståelse for den traditionelle levevis, jagt og fiskeri. Besøget i Qaanaaq var en vidun-

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derlig oplevelse, og vi håber, at vi kan komme igen snart og gense alle vores nye venner der, siger Emanualle. Parkeret i isen Ekspeditionens skonnert er nu tilbage i Uummannaq-Bugten og parkeret i havisen vinteren over, hvor holdet med vilje har ladet skibet fryse fast. - Vi fandt et sted foran den lille bygd Ikerasak, hvor vi blev budt varmt velkommen. I løbet af de to måneders mørketid fortsatte vi at dykke, og nu under havisen. Generelt giver alle dykninger mulighed for at filme, tage billeder og optage data. Dette forår vil vi tilbyde andre grønlandske børn og voksne initiation i dykning. Vi vil igen dele hvad vi opdager under denne hvide verden af havis med dem, slutter Emmanuelle Périé-Bardout.

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Discovery Greenland team Inklusiv ekspeditionslederen og kaptajnen er der imellem 6 til 10 personer permanent ombord. Mange af dem udfører flere funktioner som mekaniker, dykkere, kokke, videnskabelige koordinatorer, fotografer, m.m. Desuden et filmhold på højst fire personer, to forskere og højst to besøgende som f.eks. ekspeditionspartnere, praktikanter og familie.

Output fra ekspeditionen n To 52 minutters dokumentarfilm redigeret for TV. n En bog med imponerende billeder og historien om ekspeditionen, der forventes offentliggjort i 2016. Website & Facebook n discoverygreenland.com n underthepole.com n facebook.com/underthepole Dokumentar n discoverygreenland.com/eng/ category/videos (Med engelske undertekster

www.iceandwater.gl

With ten per cent of the world’s freshwater reserves – the Government of Greenland is focusing on the potential for exporting Greenlandic water for thirsty European palates and Arctic inland ice for their drinks. To read more about Greenlands ice take a look at www.iceandwater.gl

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oplevelser / adventure

DISCOVERY GREENLAND ÂťUnder The PoleÂŤ is a series of underwater polar expeditions, exploring the underwater polar regions. The aim is to bring back unique images and to carry out scientific projects linked to polar biodiversity, polar environment, melting icepack, global warming and diving physiology. Text: greenland today, Photo: Lucas Santucci / Under The Pole

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In 2010, Ghislain Bardout together with seven people led his first expedition to dive under the North Pole. They spent 47 days on the ice, pulling heavy sledges, camping and realized 51 dives. The images was published all over the world as the 52 minutes documentary »Deepsea Under The Pole« released on National Geographic Channel This second expedition called »Discovery Greenland« started in January

2014 after three years of preparation. The expedition is expected to last 22 months with exploration of the coast, sea and seabed between the Arctic Circle and the extreme North of Greenland. After two and half months crossing the Atlantic Ocean on the polar schooner »WHY«, the team arrived in Nuuk late March.

The expedition begins - After visiting the Nature Institute with whom we have scientific collaboration, we sailed north, starting to dive regularly, deeper and deeper, on the coast, in the fjord and under the giant icebergs of Ilulissat, Emmanuelle Périé-Bardout tells. She is both diver and second skipper, as well as head of the Expeditions Communication. She and Ghislain also has their three year old son on board 23 2015

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the ship, as the youngest adventurer of this expedition. - Around Disko Island we collaborated with the Danish scientific team led by John Steffensen, who study the Greenland sharks. - We helped making images of the sharks, which was released after tagging. The tagging provides information on the sharks swimming speed and migration. 90

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- In this area, we also enjoyed the fantastic show of bowhead whales feeding at the surface. We could approach them as close as three meters, but in a water full of phytoplankton it was impossible to take underwater images. Further North In Uummannaq the team worked on a very special program concerning divers physiology in extreme conditions. The

programme is lead by french hyperbaric researcher Jean-Eric Blatteau for military hospital of Toulon and BF Systems, a company who heads a long-running research program involving collaborations and partnerships with cuttingedge institutes and laboratories from the Ministries of Research and Defense. Another research programme on sea ice take place during the spring 2015. This is a cooperation between Under The


Negative temperatures in the ships cabin. The ice is everywhere inside and makes nice drawings on the walls and ceilings. Outside -30° and -40° degree Celsius, even more with chill factor. Cold but beautiful, says Emanuelle. Negative temperaturer indenfor I skibet, hvor isen overalt laver interessante tegninger på vægge og lofter. Udenfor er der -30° til -40° grader celsius, endnu mere med chill faktor. Koldt men smukt, mener Emanuelle.

Pole and the universities of Nuuk and Copenhagen. - We also spend time with our friend Ann Andreasen from the Childrens Home in Uummannaq. We made diving initiation for some of the kids, and was surprised to see how comfortable the kids were in the water. They are really motivated for diving and discover the underwater world of their region confirming one of the biggest Greenlandic

quality : adaptation. These kids can surf on facebook, watching tv and be aware of the last tendencies and by the same time go dogsledding or try diving with no fear, says Emmanuelle. - We also edited a small film called »Underwater Uummannaq« for the school to show them what we were able to see under water. By this we try to involve people and give knowledge from us to Greenland during the voyage.

Beginning of July, we left Uummannaq, a little bit sad to leave our friends and the community who has been so welcoming to us. Far North - We were excited to head for the high Arctic, in the Northern most part of Greenland. Sailing across the Melville Bay, we enjoyed the wild landscapes, and several encounters with whales, 23 2015

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seals, polar bears and later muskox in large flocks on land. We met narwhal hunters in the middle of the Melville Bay, and we shared hot drinks and cakes with mattaq (whale blubber) that they offered. - En route we stopped in tiny settlements as Aappilattok, Nuussuaq and Kullorssuaq. Here we discover the greenlandic hunter’s way of life in North Greenland, as harsh but rich in nature experiences. Special encounters - We was also lucky to approach narwhales with our kayaks, a great photographic souvenir to bring home. But the most crazy was diving in Qaanaaq Bay with Greenland sharks. - We thought it was impossible to meet the Greenland sharks in their natural environment without fishing or feeding, because they live too deep. But this day, at the end of August, while we were collecting shells for one of our scientific programmes, a shark appears just upon us. Five minutes after a second came very close. We do not know why they were so close to the surface, but in the days after we met eight Greenland sharks in total. We made great images for our documentary and for the John Steffensen shark survey team. Qaanaaq - When we arrived in Qaanaaq, our two deep divers – Ghislain and Martin

- were ready to try their first very deep dive. Close to Qeqertat at the end of the bay, they went down to 102 meters. At this deep, everything is dark but you can still see fauna and flora. From the surface and 80 meters down, it was full of colours. - In Qaanaaq, we edited another short film; »Underwater Qaanaaq« for the local school. We met many great people, and understood even more of the traditional way of life, hunting and fishing. Visiting Qaanaaq was a wonderful experience, and we hope we can come again soon and meet again all our new friends there, Emmanuelle says with longing. Stuck in the ice Now the expedition schooner are back in Uummannaq Bay and deliberately frozen into the sea ice for the winter. - We found a place in front of the small settlement of Ikerasak, where we have been warmly welcomed. During the two months of darkness, the dives went on, and now under the sea ice. In general all the dives give opportunity for filming, taking pictures and recording data. This spring will be the occasion to initiate other kids and greenlandic people to diving. We also hope to share with them, what we discover under this white world of sea ice, ends Emmanuelle Périé-Bardout.

Discovery Greenland team Including the expedition leader and skipper, there are in between 6 to 10 people permanently on board. Many of them perform several functions as mechanic, divers, cook, scientific coordinator, photographer, etc. In addition comes a film crew of maximum four, two scientists and a maximum of two visitors like expedition partners, trainees and family. Expected output from the expedition n Two 52 minutes documentaries edited for TV. n A book with the most impressive pictures and the expedition story to be published in 2016. Website & Facebook n discoverygreenland.com n underthepole.com n facebook.com/underthepole Documentary n discoverygreenland.com/eng/ category/videos (English subtitles available)

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MAD MED MERE / FOOD AND MORE

ØrredTapas Ingredienser 1 ørred Godt knækbrød Mayonaise Forårsløg Karse Salt Peber

Tilberedning Ørred deles i to sider, der renses for ben. Ingredienserne varmes godt op, til det hele er smeltet. Hældes i et fad, der passer med fiskefiletternes størrelse. Når væsken er kølet af, lægges fisken i med kødsiden nedad. Overdækkes med husholdningsfilm og placeres i køleskab et døgn.

Ingredienser til marinade 2 glas honning 1,5 glas salt 1 spiseske sennep 1 teske peber Tørret Kvan 94

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Servering Skær tynde skiver ørred og placer på knækbrødet. Pynt med forårsløg, mayonaise, salt og peber.

Tips Brug eventuelt en pinzet til at fjerne de sværeste ben. I stedet for kvan kan bruges tørret grønlandspost eller dild. Hvis der bruges friske krydderurter, er det meget vigtigt, at de er 100% skyllet og renset for jord. Man kan bruge laks i stedet for ørred. Laks skal ligge 1½ til to dage i marinaden. Køb evt. en mayonaise med citrus, eller rør selv op med lidt citron eller to dråber chiliolie.


Trout

Tapas

Ingredients 1 trout quality crispbread mayonnaise Spring onions Cress salt pepper

Ingredients for the marinade 2 cups of honey 1.5 cup of salt 1 tablespoon mustard 1 teaspoon pepper dried angelica Method Filet the trout in half and debone it. Heat the ingredients for the marinate up until all is melted. Pour it all a dish that fits with fish fillet size. When the liquid has cooled down place the fish with the meat side down. Cover with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

Serving Cut thin slices trout and place on crisp bread. Garnish with spring onions, mayonnaise, salt and pepper. Tips Use tweezers to remove the most difficult bones. Labrador tea or dill can be used as a substitute for angelica dill. If using fresh, it is very important they are 100% washed and cleaned of soil. You can use salmon instead of trout. Salmon should be marinated in between 36-48 hours. Use mayonnaise with citrus, or if using regular mayonnaise add a little lemon or 2 drops of chili oil.

Greenlandic Food Lover Denne tapas er lavet af Anne Nivíka Grødem inspireret af en grønlandsk opskrift fra Nive Brøns, der har fået den af sin far. Se mere fra Anne Nivíka på facebook siden »Greenlandic Food Lover« (Siden er på dansk). www.facebook.com/ Greenlandicfoodlover

Greenlandic Food Lover This tapa is made by Anne Nivíka Grødem inspired by a Greenlandic recipe from Nive Brøns who got it from her father. See more from Anne Nivíka on the facebook page: »Greenlandic Food Lover« (The page is in Danish). www.facebook.com/ Greenlandicfoodlover 23 2015

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MAD MED MERE / FOOD AND MORE

Ærtesuppe med ørred på spyd Ærtesuppe 3 spsk olie 1 løg 2 fed hvidløg 2 cm frisk ingefær 600 g frosne ærter 5 dl grøntsagsbouillon Lidt fløde Salt og peber Trøffelolie, cremefraiche og chiliflager som topping Ørredspyd 1 ørredfilet 2 spsk soja 1 spsk olie 1 spsk sesamfrø

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Tilberedning Olien varmes op i en gryde Løg, hvidløg og ingefær ristes, indtil løgene er gennemsigtige. De frosne ærter hældes i sammen med bouillonen. Suppen koges op og simrer i ca. 30 minutter. Imens skæres ørredfileten i små tern. Fisketernene lægges i en skål med sojaen, olie og sesamfrø. Lad det marinere 15 min. Herefter sættes fisken på spyd og lynsteges på en varm

pande. De skal ikke gennemsteges, men bevare en rå kerne. Blend suppen med en stavblender, så den bliver cremet. Tilsæt fløde og evt. lidt vand, hvis du ønsker den tyndere. Top suppen med cremefraiche, olie og chiliflager. Servér ørredspyddene til.

TIP: Har du en rest tilberedt ørred/laks, så kan den sagtens lægges i suppen, når den serveres, i stedet for spyddene


Pea soup with trout on skewers Pea soup 3 tablespoons of oil 1 onion 2 garlic cloves 2 cm fresh ginger 600g frozen peas 5 dl vegetable broth A little cream salt and pepper Truffle oil, sour cream and chili flakes as topping

Trout scewers 1 trout fillet 2 tablespoons soy 1 tbsp oil 1 tbsp sesame seeds Method Heat the oil in a pan. Fry the onions, garlic and ginger until the onions are transparent. Add the frozen peas and broth.

Bring the soup to a boil, and let it simmer for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, cut the trout fillet into small cubes. Marinate the fish cubes in a bowl with the soy, oil and sesame seeds for 15 minutes. When done marinating, place the fish on skewers and flask fry them in a hot pan. They should not be cooked all the way, but retain a rare center.

Blend the soup creamy with a hand blender. Add the cream and possibly a little water if you want it thinner. Top the soup with sour cream, truffle oil and chili flakes. Serve the trout skewers on the side. TIP: If you have trout / salmon scraps, these can be used in the soup when served, instead of skewers 23 2015

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næste nummer / next issue

GOOGLE GRØNLAND GOOGLE GREENLAND

UNGDOM PÅ VEJ YOUTH ON THE MOVE

PORTRÆT AF EN ENER POTRAIT OF A LONER

KULTUR, OPLEVELSER & ERHVERV CULTURE, ADVENTURE & BUSINESS

ET ANDERLEDES JOB A DIFFERENT KIND OF JOB

GRØNLANDS LUFTRUM GREENLAND’S AIRSPACE

KULUSUK MUSEUM KULUSUK MUSEUM

»Næste nummer« er kun en hensigtserklæring. »Next issue« is just a declaration of intent.

Ta k u s s!

Vis verden hvor du læser greenland today. Send et foto til editor@greenlandtoday.com Show the world where you read greenland today. Send a photo to editor@greenlandtoday.com

greenland today has readers all over the World. Here in Thailand on the ferry from Koh Tao to Chumporn. Thanks to Leilana Quinger. greenland today har læsere over hele verden. Her i Thailand på færgen fra Koh Tao til Chumporn. Tak til Leilana Quinger. Annoncedeadline for næste nummer er 10. juni 2015 Adverticemenet deadline for the next issue is June 10th, 2015 Danske annoncører/ Danish advertisers Mediakonsulent/ Media Consultant, Niels Hass Rosendahls mediaservice Tlf./ Phone +45 7610 1156 greenland today 23 2015 98 nh@rosendahls.dk

Annoncører i Grønland/ Advertisers in Greenland Udgiver/ Publisher, Aviaq Mørch greenland today Tlf./ Phone +45 3262 3997 aviaq@greenlandtoday.com


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g oplev midnatssol rktiske forår

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Discover the highlights of Greenlan d with this 8 day adventure: the magical colours of the midnight sun, sailing among icebergs and through deep fjords, gourmet cuisine with a view of gigantic icebergs, and the endless expanse of the inland icecap.

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Kom og oplev midnatssol i det arktiske forår

Spring in the Arctic come and see the midnight sun

Oplev Grønlands højdepunkter på dette 8 dage lange eventyr: Midnatssolens magiske himmeldans, sejlads mellem isbjerge og gennem dybe fjorde, kulinariske oplevelser med udsigten over gigantiske isbjerge, og indlandsisens endeløse vidder.

Discover the highlights of Greenland with this 8 day adventure: the magical colours of the midnight sun, sailing among icebergs and through deep fjords, gourmet cuisine with a view of gigantic icebergs, and the endless expanse of the inland icecap.

En uforglemmelig rejse, hvor vi udforsker de vigtigste steder og byer i det spirende arktiske forår.

An unforgettable journey where we explore the main sites and cities in the Arctic spring.

Specialrejse: Forårfornemmelser i Grønland 8 dage Afrejse maj 2015 Fra DKK 22.495 www.greenland-travel.dk/9042 Tlf. (+45) 33 13 10 11

Special Journey: Spring feelings in Greenland 8 days Departure May 2015 From DKK 22,495

www.greenland-travel.com/9042 Tel. (+45) 33 13 10 11

greenland today no 23  

Stories from Greenland and the Arctic. For all who are interested in culture, business, travel experiences, music, food, development and cli...

greenland today no 23  

Stories from Greenland and the Arctic. For all who are interested in culture, business, travel experiences, music, food, development and cli...

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