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FASHION STYLING RESEARCH PORTFOLIO

GRAZIELLA TAMBURRO


CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPHERS EDITORIALS RESEARCH MAKEUP MODELS/POSES CONCEPT/ANALYSIS PHOTOSHOOT DEVELOPMENT CONTACT/SHEETS FINAL/CHOICES

LAYOUT/COLOURS

OUTCOME INTERVIEWS ARTICLE RATIONALE


P H O rT eOsGe Ra Ar P c H h ERS


Erwin blumenfeld

1950


john Rawlings

1950


David Bailey

1960


GUY BOURDIN

1980


GUY BOURDIN

1980


Steven Klein 1990


JESSICA CHASTAIN by STEVEN KLEIN for W Magazine November 2015.


MARIO TESTINO


TOWEL SERIES


TIM WALKER


PETRA

COLLINS


ED R rI A r eI T sO e a c L h S

+ COLOUR TREND FORECASTING


mr easke e up a r c h


BRUISED LIPS


SOFT LIGHT GOLD SILVER WHITE LILIAC


ND UE


P A S T E L S P A S T E L S


BOLD COLOUR EYEBROWS EYELASHES


BOLD COLOUR EYEBROWS EYELASHES


mODE OSES r eLs S e a/ rP c h


ARMS


FLOOR


LIGHTS


FACE


MOVEMENT


c o dn ec ve ep lt /oapnmael ni st y s


N O T E S


Pd H OTOSHOOT e v e l o p m e n t


O U T F I T #1 G A R M E N T S


O U T F I T #1

A C C E S S O R I E S


OG UA TR MF EI N TT #2 S

O U T F I T #2

A C C E S S O R I E S


O U T F I T #3 G A R M E N T S


O U T F I T #3

A C C E S S O R I E S


M O D E L

ANESU

A G E S H O E

NOELLE 21

S I Z E

C L O T H E S H E I G H T

S I Z E

7 6/8 5.8”


S T U D I O

LIME GROVE/UAL/1B

C A M E R A

CANON 7D

L E N S E

24-105MM

L I G H T I N G O T H E R

BOWENS GM750PRO BLACK BACKDROP/COLOURED GELS


MOODBOARD


c od ne cv tea lc ot /p sm he enett s


CONTACT SHEETS

LOOK 1


CONTACT SHEETS

LOOK 2


CONTACT SHEETS

LOOK 3


COVER 1

FINAL CHOICE


FINAL CHOICE

2 3


L A Y O oUuTt/ C c oOmLeO U R S

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LAYOUT/COLOURS

COVER

OPTIONS


LAYOUT/COLOURS

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OPTIONS


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LAYOUT/COLOURS

CLOSEUP

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OPTIONS


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INTERVIEW 1:

ANESU NOELLE

A. HOW DO YOU THINK THE RAISE OF CHARITY SHOPS IS GOING TO EFFECT HIGH STREET FASHION? IS IT A POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE THING? Q. IT’S GOING TO HAVE A NEGATIVE IMPACT ON THE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE FOR SHOPPERS WHO ENJOY THE IN STORE SHOPPING RATHER THAN ONLINE. CHARITY SHOPS TEND TO BE CLUTTERED AND THERE IS NO VISUAL EFFORT MADE BY THE CHARITIES TO MARKET THE CLOTHING WHICH WILL DECREASE THE VALUE IN THE STANDARDS OF IN STORE SHOPPING EXPERIENCES ON THE HIGH STREET. A. DO YOU THINK THAT IN 10 YEARS TIME HIGH STREET BRANDS WILL BE MORE OR LESS SUSTAINABLE THAN TODAY? Q. THEY MOST PROBABLY WILL. FOR EXAMPLE BRANDS LIKE HM HAVE ALREADY STARTED HAVING RECYCLING OLD CLOTHING SCHEME IN THEIR STORES AND IN NO TIME DUE TO COMPETITION OTHER BRANDS ARE LIKELY TO TAKE ACTION.  A. IF YOU HAD TO CHOOSE BETWEEN A GARMENT FRESHLY MADE BEING SOLD BY AN HIGH STREET BRAND AND A VINTAGE GARMENT MADE 20 YEARS AGO BEING SOLD IN A CHARITY SHOP, WHAT WOULD YOU CHOOSE AND WHY? Q. I WOULD PERSONALLY GO FOR THE PRODUCT THAT IS FRESHLY MADE. ONLY BECAUSE I DO NOT LIKE THE IDEA OF WEARING CLOTHES THAT WERE WORN BEFORE ME. 


INTERVIEW 2:

ANONYMOUS

A. WHAT'S YOU'RE EXPERIENCE AS A STYLIST? WHICH WERE THE FIRST GARMENTS YOU USED?

A. HOW DO THINK THE RISE OF CHARITY SHOPS IS GOING TO EFFECT THE HIGH STREET FASHION?

Q. MY BACKGROUND CONSISTS OF MOST AREAS IN STYLING: MUSIC VIDEOS, BRANDING, CELEBRITIES, TV SHOWS ETC THE FIRST GARMENTS I CAN REMEMBER USING ON ONE OF MY FIRST JOBS IS LOTS OF COTTONS TEE'S AND JERSEY JOGGERS AND JUMPERS AS THEIR EASIER TO SOURCE THAN HIGH FASHION PIECES.

Q. SPENDING MONEY WHICH GOES TO CHARITY IS GREAT AND I'M PLEASED THAT THERE IS A GROWING MARKET AND INTEREST IN PEOPLE WEARING USED CLOTHES. I THINK WHEN PEOPLE PURCHASE A NUMBER OF ITEMS AT A CHEAPER RATE THIS ENCOURAGES PEOPLE TO SPEND MORE MONEY. I DON'T THINK THE HIGH STREET HAS ANYTHING TO WORRY ABOUT AS THEY HAVE AN ADVANTAGE OVER MANY AREAS INCLUDING ONLINE SHOPPING, SALES/DISCOUNTS AND TRENDS COMPARED TO CHARITY SHOPS. THE HIGH STREET STORES TEND TO ADVERTISE WHICH WILL ALWAYS INCITE NEW BUSINESS AS WELL.

A. BEING A STYLIST MEANS FINDING YOURSELF DEALING WITH A LARGE NUMBER OF GARMENTS. HOW DO STYLISTS DEAL WITH SUSTAINABILITY? Q. WELL MOST STYLISTS HAVE A KIT BAG WHICH CONTAIN KEY PIECES WE TEND TO RE-USE SUCH AS BELTS, SOCKS, HATS AND FOOTWEAR. MOST OF THE GARMENTS USED ON FASHION SHOOTS ARE WHAT THE INDUSTRY CALL 'SAMPLES' SO FOR EXAMPLE IF YOU SEE THE SAME DRESS IN TWO MAGAZINE'S AND ON A CELEBRITY CHANCES ARE THAT THERE THE SAME GARMENT GETTING USED, THAT GARMENT WILL ALSO BE SOLD AT A REDUCED PRICE AT A SAMPLE SALE. A. HOW IMPORTANT IS IT FOR STYLISTS TO CAREFULLY CHOOSE BETWEEN SUSTAINABILITY AND NONSUSTAINABILITY? Q. EACH STYLIST IS DIFFERENT AND I THINK BUDGETS PLAYS A LARGE PART BECAUSE IF I HAD A HUGE BUDGET TO STYLE A CELEBRITY I WOULD PURCHASE A DRESS OR HAVE ONE MADE BY A DESIGNER BUT IF MY BUDGET WAS SMALL I WOULD HIRE A DRESS OR BORROW A SAMPLE DRESS. SUSTAINABILITY IS TOTALLY DOWN TO THE STYLIST AT HAND FROM MY EXPERIENCE WITHIN THE FASHION INDUSTRY I WOULD SAY THAT SUSTAINABILITY IS AN AFTER THOUGHT FOR MOST STYLISTS.

A. DO YOU THINK THAT IN 10 YEARS TIME HIGH STREET BRANDS WILL BE MORE OR LESS SUSTAINABLE THAN TODAY? Q. I DON'T THINK HIGH STREET BRAND FEELS THEY HAVE A MORAL OBLIGATION TO BE MORE SUSTAINABLE, THEIR PRIMARY CONCERN IS TO HIT TARGETS AND INCREASE SALES. THERE HAVE BEEN SOME BRANDS WHICH HAVE DONE VARIOUS PROJECTS TO HELP MATTERS WHETHER THEY WERE TRIAL PROJECTS OR NOT THEY NEVER SEEM TO LAST. I KNOW AMERICAN APPAREL, PATEGONIA, NUDIE JEANS AND MANY SAVILE ROW TAILORS RECYCLE AND REPAIR GARMENTS BUT I DON'T THINK LARGE SCALE COMPANIES COULD DO THE SAME DUE TO COST AND DEMAND. MY VIEW IS MOST BRANDS WILL IMPROVE SOME WHAT IN 10 YEARS BUT UNTIL IT BECOMES LAW HIGH STREET BRANDS WON'T CHANGE THAT MUCH.

THE PERSON INTERVIEWED REQUESTED NOT TO SHOW HIS IDENTITY.


A T cI Co L o R u t m E e


ARTICLE

The delicate process of joining together fashion and sustainability starts with no doubts

In order to deeply understand how fast fashion has started and quickly evolved, we

from the making of the clothes; the business involved behind this operation is today a

need to study all the factors that made it raise. There is a cycle starting from the

fragile topic and everyone have different opinions about it. To understand how

quality of the materials and ending with the discard of the garments that contains all

sustainability is involved in the fashion industry it is important to consider both the

the different steps for a more sustainable fashion industry.

negative and positive aspects. Today we are involved in what is called “Fast Fashion”, meaning all the high street brands that practice unsustainable processes to run a

On the other end, the raising of vintage fashion has seen increases in people

fashion production. As defined by Harper and Nivelo (2006), Fast Fashion gathered

choosing charity shops instead of cheap, affordable brands. Charity shops are known

pace from the end of the 1990’s when brands began to look for new ways to increase

for selling second-hand garments and all profits are reinvested into different

profits. Globalisation had grown rapidly in the 80’s and 90’s – paving the way for value

categories or

and mid price brands to shift the bulk of their production to the developing world where

from charity shops is a two-fold positive, helping the local community as well as

labour and overhead costs are a fraction of those in Europe. Industries who have

refusing to aid the system running of the unsustainable big fashion brands.

organisations throughout the country and abroad. Buying garments

adopted Fast Fashion have noticed how rapidly their benefit have increased over the years; Defra (2009) noticed how the average woman in 1997 used to buy a quantity of

To understand better how sustainability is applicable within the fashion industry, we

19 garments, when in 2009 the quantity of garments raised to 34. This means that either

need to consider how the raise of charity shops is going to effect the hight street

the fashion industry has had to readjust to cope with this higher demand and consumer

fashion. As a London based stylist noticed, spending money which goes to charity is

mindsets or the industry itself has caused the change in mindset to increase profit in a

great and I'm pleased that there is a growing market and interest in people wearing

market of selling more for less capital.

used clothes. I think when people purchase a number of items at a cheaper rate this encourages people to spend more money. I don't think the high street has anything to

Over the last few years the controversy over the discovery of sweat shops conditions in

worry about as they have an advantage over many areas including online shopping,

the news, has brought public knowledge to what is going on but has not necessarily

sales/discounts and trends compared to charity shops. The high street stores tend to

changed the opinions. Although it has forced most of the fashion companies to change

advertise which will always incite new business as well. I know American Apparel,

the conditions of their workers but still today there are cases of misleading.

Patagonia, Nudie Jeans and many Savile Row tailors recycle and repair garments but I don't think large scale companies could do the same due to cost and demand.’


RA LE o T u It O cN o A m e


RATIONALE

The topics concerned with sustainability within this project are comprised of

Specifically, I looked into the chain ‘Crisis’ after a recent opening store in Finsbury

social and environmental sustainability and the impact the current fashion

Park, this is an organisation with an aim to help the homeless community. I

industry has on these. To explore this, the topics chosen are of the wide impacts

explored the effect of charity shops and the aims behind them regardless of the

affordable fashion has from start of life to end, and the way that current trends

vintage fashion factor and the wider industry.

and consumer mindsets keep these impacts continuing. As a possible answer to some of these negative effects the model of a current charity shop will be assessed.

For the starting project, I purchased a few garments from Crisis, with the aim of support of the institution and provide a sustainable outcome for the publication. As it is the consumer culture that is the real issue that needs to be addressed and

Choosing H&M as a base model to evaluate, recent efforts to increase

altered, my main aim was to promote this aspect within a high fashion magazine

sustainability throughout the supply chain is still at odds with the idea of fast

such as i-D. The reason for the choice of i-D is its wide readership and reach

fashion. A 2015 article from QUARTZ magazine titled, ‘H&M’s “sustainability”

within a range of ages, social backgrounds and economic situations. It often

report hides the unsustainable reality of fast fashion’. It explains this with the

provides a diverse freedom of speech, no filters and promotes an

opinion that the aim to reduce negative impacts on environmental and social

uncompromising, honest view of the fashion industry. Therefore, the purpose of

welfare issues will be redundant, as the business and industry continues to grow

my publication was to be as eye-catching as the usual contents, in order to speak

beyond the current measures of control. To provide high quantities of cheap/

to this vast range of readers. In order to do so, I explored techniques to fit along

affordable clothing requires cutting of costs from the supply of the materials, the

with the current identity of the magazine, these including the choice of makeup,

use of energy and water, the working environment and wages, and the transport.

the set up of lightning and colours and the styling of the second-hand garments.

In this project I intended to explore all the factors mentioned and analyse them

The aim of the photoshoot was to create something reasonably edgy with the use

within reasonable considerations in order to provide an understanding of how a

of the above cited garments. The purchasing of very affordable articles of clothing

solution can be found in the future of the fashion industry. The starting point was

from Crisis has also helped realise that the quality of these items are superior to

to look into charity shops, once seen as very unpopular and having a negative

similar garments found in high street brands currently.

connotation.


Therefore the photoshoot underscored that the negative ideas of shopping in a

The whole process helped me to see clearly where the gap in the fashion

charity shop are wrong, the final images created show a high level of quality

industry is and how the problems with sustainability could be partly solved within

compared to low quality garments found elsewhere. This led to the opinion that if

the next decade. The largest problem I found being the mindset of the

more publications support charity shop work and second hand items of clothing

consumers and their misinformed knowledge about the current issues caused by

then the level of sustainability within the fashion industry may be improved, as

buying habits. A way to attempt at solving this can be from supplying more

well as the opinion of consumers.

information about these from publications and fashion related magazines.

To compare and support my views represented by my shoot and publication, I conducted two different comparison interviews with my model, Anesu Noelle and a London based stylist in the industry. The questions asked explored

References

sustainability within the respect of the individual opinion and the thoughts of the

Bain, M. (2015) H&M’s ‘sustainability’ report hides the unsustainable reality of fast fashion. Available at: http://qz.com/380055/hms-sustainability-report-hides-theunsustainable-reality-of-fast-fashion/ (Accessed: 20 June 2016).

wider industry. As seen in the Interview 1, it is possible to notice how the common knowledge about the rise of charity shops and opinion of them is fairly negative and seen as possibly dated. A preference over high street brands and brand new garments is observed summarise the current mass mindset. Although a large number of consumers have started to realise how charity shops are positive for the environment, affordable and more so now presented as keeping with current trends.

For the second interview, I decided to find the opinion of a stylist working in the industry that knows the unspoken rules and what actually happens behind the scenes in choosing garments and brands. I asked about how stylists deal with sustainability, or if they concerned with it in the first place. This helped me to explore the styling industry more fully and see to what extend sustainability is involved within it.

Harper, J. and Nivelo (2006) Fast fashion, ‘value’ fashion. Available at: https:// www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/fast-fashion-cheap-fashion (Accessed: 20 June 2016).

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