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LADY GAGA The story of Lady Gaga’s rise to fame from the start of her career

Letterpress

IPAD 2

Apples new gadget unveiled inside

Find out about the lost art that changed our lifes

Alessi

Redesigning how you look at your kitchen December 2011

Issue 1

ÂŁ2.50

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Content 4. Lady Gaga

6. Alessi

8. Ipad 2

10. Letterpress

12. Vivienne Westwood

14. Paul Smith

The story of the stars rise to fame. The art that changed the printing world.

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Redesigning your kitchen accessories. The Queen in the fashion world unveils her secrets.

Apples lastest invention revealed. How the fashion brand became what it is today.

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La dy Gaga

"I don't wanna be one song. I wanna be the next 25 years of pop music." Born Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta to affluent parents in Manhattan, the star-in-the making showed her potential early on — learning to play the piano at the tender age of four, and performing at open mic nights by 14. "I was always an entertainer," she acknowledges. "I was a ham as a little girl and I'm a ham today." 4

She attended the same private Catholic girls school as Paris and Nicky Hilton, and credits her schooling as something that helped her stand out from other blonde bombshells in the charts. "I went to a lovely school and I got an incredible education," she says. "And I actually think that my education is what really sets me apart, 'cos I'm very smart." Though close to parents Joseph and Cynthia, Stefani risked losing their approval when they went to see one of her 'shock art' shows, which she started performing aged 18 in downtown New York burlesque clubs. "My father came to see shows when I was in leather thongs and didn't understand. He couldn't look at me for a few months," she admitted. Her father inspired the song Speechless, which she wrote as a plea for him to have vital heart surgery. Now he loves her work. "When [he] saw me getting better, [he] saw that my ideas were getting stronger. Now my father cries," she says. So where did the strange Lady Gaga moniker come from?

Lady Gaga in her video for ‘Judas’.

Producer Rob Fusari, who in 2010 launched legal procedings against the star for alleged nonpayment of merchandise and song royalties, claims to have helped Stefani strike upon the now-legendarystage name. "Every day, when Stef came to the studio, instead of saying hello, I would start singing Radio Ga Ga. That was her entrance song," he explained. "[Lady Gaga] was actually a glitch. I typed 'Radio Ga Ga' in a text and it did an autocorrect, so somehow 'Radio' got changed to 'Lady'. She texted me back, 'That's it.' After that day, she was Lady Gaga. She’s like, 'Don’t ever call me Stefani again'." A New Star is Born And so a star was born. While still performing on the New York club scene, the then 19-year-old signed a deal with Sony/ATV, and began writing songs for established acts such as Britney Spears, and The Pussycat Dolls. Meanwhile, she was working on her own debut album The Fame, moving to Los Angeles and setting up the Haus of Gaga, the

group that creates her eccentric costumes, performances and stage sets. She launched her assault on the charts in April 2008 with single Just Dance. It shot to number one in six countries, including the US and the UK, and transformed Lady Gaga into a tabloid favourite — her outlandish ensembles generating headlines across the globe. She followed it up with Poker Face, LoveGame, Paparazzi and Bad Romance, chalking up number ones, award nominations and critical acclaim at every turn. In 2010 she picked up two Grammy Awards and three Brit Awards to add to her already overflowing trophy cabinet. Prior to that she had scooped nine Billboard Music Awards, three MTV Video Music Awards and two NME Awards, among others. The same year she unveiled Telephone, her eagerly anticipated collaboration with diva Beyonce. The accompaning video, which involved scenes of lesbianism, prison and mass murder, racked up 17 million views on the internet in its first four days alone.

Lady Gaga on a night out.

While her career and persona drew comparisons to that of queen of pop Madonna, by 2010 it seemed the singer's relentlesswork schedule had left her exhausted and fragile. "I always wanted to be a star," she's said. "It's in the marrow of my bones, how I feel about music and art. I sacrifice, bleed and am sleepless for my craft in a shameless and loving way." That statement rang true when she collapsed on stage in New Zealand, removing part of her costume and lying flat on the stage to complete the show. She later blamed the breakdown on jet lag, but it left her adoring fans concerned for her wellbeing. Breakdown She's the most downloaded artist in internet history and in March 2010 sold out three concerts at Madison Square Garden in under an hour. "I don't wanna be one song. I wanna be the next 25 years of pop music," she's said. At this rate, it looks like she may well get her wish.

A 2008 photoshoot of the star.

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Before the invention of the printing press, the reproduction of the written word was the responsibility of the monasteries. Each book had to be written and illustrated by hand. Surviving books from this era are among today’s most valuable works of art. Despite their beauty there was a downside to this method of production, the books were so horrendously expensive to

hand carved with each ideogram in position on the plate, which meant a completely new carved block for each new page. In 1457 Gutenberg invented the first printing press with moveable type. That is each letter was a separate carving and could be used again and again in different pages on different books. Gutenberg lived in Mainz in the heart of Germany’s wine growing

that the reformation would not have occurred without the catalyst of the printing press. Printing presses across Europe rapidly produced copies of the thoughts of religous figures such as Martin Luther, because more people could read these ideas spread much more quickly than would have been possible with expensive and time-consuming hand-drawn books. The idea of having raised type,

Letterpress

How letterpress changed design and the world we live in. make, that only the very rich could afford to own them. This meant that few people ever had the opportunity or the need to learn to read. The printing press changed all that, and in doing so was responsible for the greatest socio-political changes in history. Printing from wooden blocks was probably invented in China in the years around the birth of Christ. However each plate had to be

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region and his press was built on the same idea as the presses that are used for pressing the juice from grapes to create wine. From humble beginnings printing presses spread over Europe, and with them a rapid increase in the number of people who could read, and the number of people who could afford to have their ideas reproduced in books. It is widely acknowledge

applying ink to it and then squashing it onto paper to form an image, later became known as letterpress printing and was to be the most successful and most common form of printing until the 1950’s.

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Alessi

Alessi has revolutionised the design of normal household products with it's inovative ideas.

Alessi is one of those companies which embodies a typical phenomenon of Italian industrial culture, namely that of “Italian Design Factories”. Since time immemorial, my family has been firmly estabilished on Lake Orta. In this poor, narrow valley in the Italian Alps, close to Switzerland, a longstanding tradition in wood and metal handicraft has survived up to this day. Within the Alessi company, design in the current sense of the term began to gain a foothold under my father Carlo, who drew on his training as an industrial designer in order to develop virtually all of the products which appeared in our catalogues between 1935 and 1945. In the 1950s, my father replaced my grandfather as corporate general manager, giving up altogether his activity as a

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designer and increasingly relying on the contributions of freelance designers, in accordance with a practice which was to become typical of all "Italian Design Factories" To this day, Alessi products are still considered as being handicraft items made with the aid of machines: by this I mean that, even though we rely on contemporary, industrial technology and processing equipment, at depth our practice — the one I believe we ought to stick to, our inherent attitude is still rooted in a handicraft culture. When speaking about the "Italian Design factories" I am referring to a historical group of companies for whom design is — if I may use a somewhat exaggerated term — a Mission, an activity which has gradually broken away from its original meaning as a simple formal project for an object and has become a sort of "overall

philosophy", a "Weltanschauung", underlying all of these companies' operational steps: we believe that our true nature comes closer to a "Research Lab in the Applied Arts" than to an industry in the traditional sense of the term. Research Lab in the Applied Arts, the role of which is to mediate continually between the most advanced and stimulating expressions of international creative culture on the one hand, and the public's requirements and dreams on the other. A lab that should be as open and dedicated to the world of Creation as possible. The right type of contribution that an industry such as Alessi can make to the civilised development of the consumer society is to be an artistic mediator, attempting to create new objects, introducing a touch of transcendency, helping us decipher our own modernity. 9


One of the most influencial designers of our time, this is her story. Born Vivienne Swire in the Peak District village of Tintwistle in 1941, as a teenager the British designer moved to Harrow, a suburb of northwest London, where her parents took over the running of a post office. At 21, she married Derek Westwood, a toolmaker, but the marriage did not last. After the break-up, Vivienne fled to her Aunt Ethel's caravan in North Wales, with her son Ben. Her career in fashion did not take off until she met Malcolm McLaren, later known as the manager of punk band the Sex Pistols, who was studying alongside her brother at Harrow Technical College. Friendship came first, followed by love, and, in 1974, a second child, Joe, now the purveyor of saucy scanties, was born.

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Vivienne Westwood

It was London which gave Vivienne the boost her creativity needed. After a stint selling her own jewellery in Portobello Market, she and Malcolm opened the infamous Sex boutique at the bottom end of the Kings Road where her provocative designs were sold. Then came punk. Vivienne's clothes were perfect for the youth trend: bondage trousers, slashed shirts and provocative God Save The Queen T-shirts. The monarch may not have loved it, but London was intoxicated. From notoriety eventually came respectability, although her catwalk shows never failed to garner front page headlines. Remember Naomi Campbell coming a cropper in her electric blue platform heels? That was Viv. The return of cleavage

flaunting? Take a bow, Mrs W. In the Nineties she was elected one of the top five designers of the last century, alongside such luminaries as Yves Saint Laurent and Coco Chanel and was named British Designer of the Year two years running, in 1990 and 1991. In 1992, she married Andreas Kronthaler, a fashion student a quarter of a century younger than her, whom she met when she was tutoring fashion at Vienna University of Applied Arts. The two now share a home in Battersea, southwest London.

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IPAD 2 Apple has earned a reputation as the maker of some of the most elegant and user–friendly computers, music players and smartphones in the business. Yet the Apple iPad may be the most impressive piece of Apple hardware we’ve handled.

(ppi), it’s down on the 163ppi of the iPhone. A 19mm bezel may look superfluous, but it’s actually essential for your thumbs when holding the iPad, making a solid grip that doesn’t trigger commands to the sensitive capacitive touchscreen.

It’s bigger than an iPhone, of course, but much lighter than a laptop. The front is almost entirely glass, save for a thin aluminium frame. The back is a gently curved plate of anodised aluminium.

This screen, based on superlative in-plane switching (IPS) technology, is bright and vibrantly colourful, with a wide viewing angle. It collects fingerprints but it’s got the same oil–repellant coating as the iPhone 3GS; one quick wipe and they’re gone.

The iPad is designed to be held, and it couldn’t feel more solid. This is not a delicate piece of technology to be coddled, but a semi-rugged slate for toting wherever you go. The 9.7in glass touchscreen packs in 1024x768 pixels, resulting in the 4:3 aspect found on older TVs, as opposed to the predominant 16:9 ratio of today. At 132 pixels per inch

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The next generation of apples technology ready to take over.

The screen space means you can put lots of fingers (and, indeed, both hands) on the iPad, to type or interact with onscreen objects. People who disparage the iPad as merely a hyper–thyroidal iPhone are failing to see the bigger picture. For full pricing, and details of how to buy an Apple iPad see our Apple iPad FAQs.

Apple iPad: Specs and speeds The iPad is available with either 16GB, 32GB or 64GB of flash storage. In due course we’ll see models of the same capacity with built-in 3G. The processor inside the iPad is proudly billed as a ‘1GHz Apple A4 custom-designed system– on–a–chip’, and appears to be based on a single–core ARM Cortex–A8. Graphics may be courtesy of the same PowerVR SGX 535 used in the iPhone 3GS. Whichever chip is in there, the Apple iPad flies. It was fast at almost everything we threw at it: games played smoothly with gorgeous graphics, and there’s no lag when panning and zooming around large images. Any touchbased device stands or falls on how smoothly things on the screen can react to the movement of your fingers. The iPad breezes that test masterfully.

We tried the SunSpider JavaScript test on iPad’s Safari browser. In September we ran this test on every iPhone OS device made the fastest (iPhone 3GS) took 15.5 secs, while the original iPhone took 36 secs. The iPad completed it in 10.4 secs. The battery is a 24.8Wh lithium– polymer pack, over five times the size of the iPhone 3GS’s unit. While Apple boasts a battery life of 10hrs, early reports suggest that real-world figures may be even longer. Charge overnight and you’re set for the day. In short: the Apple iPad is fast and the battery lasts.

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Paul Smith 14

The story behind the iconic designs of Paul smith. Smith left school at the age of 15, a member of Beeston Road Club. His only ambition was to become a racing cyclist until his father hauled him off to work at a clothing warehouse. Smith had no real interest in his work during his first two years there except for the cycle journey to and from his home. A terrible cycling accident put an end to his cycling ambitions, and it was only then that Smith's career in fashion design began. Six months in hospital followed and during this time Smith made some new friends. After leaving hospital he arranged to meet them all at a local pub that was popular with art students. It was then that Paul Smith knew he wanted to be part of this colourful world of ideas and excitement. Smith started to take evening classes for tailoring, and joined Lincroft Kilgour in Savile Row after being spotted by

chairman Harold Tillman, where his designs were worn by celebrities including footballer George Best. With the help of his then girlfriend (now wife) Pauline Denyer, who was an RCA fashion graduate, and a small amount of savings, he managed to open his first shop 10 Byard Lane, Nottingham in 1970. By 1976 Paul showed his first menswear collection in Paris, under the Paul Smith label. He gradually expanded the retail business, being the first fashion brand to open on Floral Street in London's Covent Garden in 1979, where his shop offered an eclectic combination of clothes and 'finds' for men which reflected his own magpie personality. The international growth of his business began and most famously in Japan, where his British designs have been particularly popular, while he expanded into three adjacent

stores on Floral Street. A converted town-house in Notting Hill, London opened in 1998 and is now his flagship shop, with the company's operational heart remaining between Nottingham and London. In 1998 Paul showed his first women's collection at London Fashion Week, the women's mainline collection continues to this day. Most recently, within the last 2 years, Smith has opened shops in Dubai, Bangalore, Leeds, Antwerp, Los Angeles and another shop in London, in addition to a brand new warehouse building in Nottingham.

The success of Smith's business may be attributed to his understanding of his dual roles of both designer and retailer; the success of his designs to his combination of the classic and the quirky. and which allows men to buy relatively traditional (and hence commercially popular) designs that offer a 'twist' of individuality. In September 2010 Smith opened his first standalone womenswear store in Mayfair, London.

Paul Smith remains fully involved in the business, designing clothes, choosing fabrics, approving the shop locations and overseeing every development within the company. He has showrooms in London, Paris, Milan, New York and Tokyo. 15


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Edge Magazine