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T H E PA N T RY T H E N E W S P A P E R O F T H E P I P E A N D G L A S S — 1 0 TH A N N I V E R S A R Y E D I T I O N , 2 0 1 6

We catch up with actor and Pipe and Glass regular Vincent Regan, Page 10

Kurtus has the golden touch, Page 5

We’re always busy at the Pipe and Glass: join us for a day in our life, from the early morning deliveries to the late-night end of another long and happy day, page 6–9

Ten years in the making… Hard to believe, we know, but that’s really us in the picture on the right! These days, we look a bit different – and so does the Pipe and Glass. Ten years ago we picked up the keys to our new business, full of enthusiasm and, thank

goodness, youthful energy. We needed every ounce of it – back then, we couldn’t have predicted that ten years on, we’d be running a garlanded pub and restaurant with a staff of over 40, and bringing up a young family to boot. But it’s been worth every last drop of blood, sweat and tears – the Pipe and Glass is at the heart of the village, is East Yorkshire’s first and only Michelin-starred establishment, and

Step inside our new luxury bedrooms, Page 12

Ma rc h 2006

continues to grow and improve every single year. And we couldn’t have done any of it without you, our lovely customers and our wonderful suppliers – so here’s to you! A huge ‘thank you’ from all of us at the Pipe and Glass.

Classic recipes from the past 10 years, Page 20










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Exclusively for friends of The Pipe and Glass

10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  3

A lot can happen in 10 years…


On 1 March 2006 we received the keys to the Pipe and Glass, and welcomed our first customers only a fortnight later with a team of just two chefs and a handful of front of house staff. Just months after opening we were awarded Yorkshire Life Dining Pub of the Year – a fantastic achievement.


We undertook a major refurbishment of the kitchen, installing James' pride and joy – a bespoke Athanor stove – it’s the Ferrari of cookers and has been worth the investment from day one.


In August we tied the knot at St Mary’s Church, South Dalton – followed by a bit of a ‘do’ at the Pipe and Glass. We were placed in the top 40 restaurants outside the capital by the London Restaurant awards. We laid a new patio within our garden to create an outdoor dining space.


We became proud parents when our son, Toby, was born in April. The day after we won the Taste of England gold award. Plus, we opened our first luxury boutique rooms, Sage and Thyme.


We were awarded East Yorkshire’s first ever Michelin star, which we are proud to have retained ever since. James was named Yorkshire Life Chef of the Year and Northern Chef of the Year at the Northern Hospitality Awards.


Toby became a big brother to Molly. James’ debut cookbook On the Menu was launched, and we transformed our first floor into a private dining suite, The Hotham Room and Chefs’ Library.


A media frenzy: we were named Michelin Dining Pub of the Year, and the head of Michelin visited to present our award… and James managed to miss the excitement as he was away for the day filming with Kirstie Allsopp! On the Menu won Best First Cookbook at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Paris.


We were thrilled to win Best Pub and Bar Operators at the Cateys (the hospitality industry’s Oscars); our Golden Apron young chefs’ competition launched. James teamed up with old friend (and former boss), the Star at Harome’s Andrew Pern to create Two Chefs ale, now available across the world – and at the Pipe and Glass!


James travelled to London, accompanied by a sizeable bunch of Yorkshire rhubarb, to appear on Saturday Kitchen with fellow Yorkshire chef, James Martin. The Pipe and Glass’s own label wine was launched, produced by renowned French vineyard Moulin de Gassac.


We undertook a major garden revamp, to include the creation of a kitchen garden, herbarium and the opening of three further luxury boutique rooms: Lovage, Rosemary and Mint. We were named as The Good Pub Guide’s National Dining Pub of the Year.


In early 2016 we took the number two spot in the Morning Advertiser’s Top 50 Gastropub Awards. We now employ over 40 members of staff and work is ongoing on the new garden dining area, due to be launched this summer.

As for the next decade? Let’s see what happens…


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HEART AND SOUL “I’m really heartened to see the Pipe and Glass at number two, a husband and wife team, and you know they just put their heart and soul into it. Those kind of places, I think, are really special…” Stephen Harris from the Sportsman at Seasalter in Kent is one of this country’s most admired chefs, so we were thrilled that he paid such generous tribute to us in his acceptance speech when he took the top spot in the Morning Advertiser/Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropub Awards earlier this year (we came second, by the way!). When we took on the Pipe and Glass in the early spring of 2006, we were both relatively young – only 30 and 27. We’d both trained and worked in the restaurant industry since leaving school, but neither of us had run our own business – and nothing can prepare you for that rollercoaster ride. A former coaching inn dating back to the 17th century, the Pipe and Glass had been at one stage a popular local pub, but had become run down as the years passed – when we took it on, it was, to say the least, shabby and the ‘fully equipped kitchen’ described in the estate agent’s ad turned out to be nothing more

“ I’m really heartened to see the Pipe and Glass at number two, a husband and wife team, and you know they just put their heart and soul into it. Those kind of places, I think, are really special…” than a bank of microwaves, some ovens which James deemed to be ‘dodgy’, and a big deep fat fryer. We had just £25,000 to spend on the place. It seemed an impossible task. And yet, with the help and, perhaps more importantly, the belief of our family and friends we opened two weeks later, as planned, in mid March 2006.

willing to deliver to a relatively remote area of East Yorkshire? And yet slowly, we found them – and more than one literally within walking distance of the kitchen door. And we’d love to think that our success has perhaps had a knock-on effect for others in the area, helping local producers to run sustainable businesses, giving others in our business access to their great produce, and bringing media attention to the area. On the other hand, if you’d told us on that chilly March day in 2006 when we first opened our doors that just four years later we’d have a Michelin star shining over us, and that it would carry on shining there to this day – well, you really would have been able to knock us down with a feather!

Since then there have been ups and downs that we just couldn’t have anticipated.

We still believe that a major part of our success has been always sticking to our original guns – that we are first and foremost a pub, where locals can drop in for a pint and a sandwich – whilst simultaneously undertaking an ongoing programme of upkeep and innovation to keep the place fresh and interesting.

Who knew, for instance, how hard it would be to find reliable suppliers of quality produce

This has included a state-of-the-art kitchen, five luxurious bedrooms in the revamped gardens, a private dining suite with demo


kitchen and chefs’ library upstairs, and ongoing refurbishment to the interior. Our garden suites have been a particularly pleasing success – we opened our first two in 2009, and before long they were in such demand that we had to start planning more: three further suites opened last year. You can read more about them elsewhere in this issue of The Pantry. And, of course, not only has our business grown, but so has our family – there are now four of us: Toby came along in 2009 and Molly was born in 2011.

“ There were plenty of sleepless nights when we both wondered what on earth we’d done, and struggled to believe that we would ever open on time. But we did, and people started to come from the word go – and they’ve been coming ever since, thank goodness! ”

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10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  5

Kurtus has the golden touch

Teenage catering student Kurtus Auty was stunned to hear of a last-minute boost to his prize when he won the title of the Golden Apron 2015 – the chance to create a product for one of the UK’s leading supermarkets.


ighteen-year-old Kurtus, from Selby, was ‘over the moon’ at winning the title in a keenly-fought final at the Pipe and Glass. And sponsors ASDA waited until the event had started to announce a surprise addition to the prize package – that Kurtus will be working with them to create a new food product to add to their range. The competition, which last year celebrated its third year, is run by James in conjunction with the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School and farming company JSR, both based at Southburn near Driffield. Sponsored last year by ASDA and Cranswick plc, it’s open to young chefs aged between 14 and 19 from across the county. Kurtus, a Level 2 Professional Cookery student at Selby College, beat off fierce competition from Zacharias Abbot (16) from Stamford Bridge, a Level 2 Professional Cookery student at York College, and 15-year-old Jemima Harpin from Nun Monkton, who is studying for GCSEs including food and nutrition at Queen Margaret’s School, York. The trio of talented teenagers cooked their own pork dish and a pudding recipe supplied by James at the semi-final at the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School. For the final each cooked a starter-sized portion of

a dish of their own design for 70 guests who then voted ‘blind’ on the three dishes. Kurtus’s winning dish was herb-crusted fillet of pork, apple and black pudding bon bon, Ampleforth Cider and butternut squash purée. Zacharias created a dish of Two-Chefs-ale-braised shin of Yorkshire Wagyu beef, pumpkin boulangère and purée, kale and horseradish, while Jemima’s contribution to the menu was smoked haddock and leek tart with a poached hen’s egg, mashed potato and Cheddar crust.

The winner was announced by Fiona Lambert, ASDA’s Vice President – Brand Design and Development, who said: “Kurtus will be working with us to create a new product, which is the lifeblood of our business.”

about the business.” In-kind sponsors of the Golden Apron 2015 were Hodgson Fish, wine merchants House of Townend, catering clothing and equipment suppliers Russums, and ingredients suppliers Wellocks and The Yorkshire Wagyu Company. Could you be the Golden Apron 2016? Keep an eye on the website for announcement: The other five semi-finalists for the title of Golden Apron 2015 were: Megan Grant (15) from Doncaster Molly Lyster (14) from Huddersfield Katie Mayes (18) from Castleford Josh Rowan (17) from Hessle Martha Wood (16) from Knaresborough.

The three were supported in the kitchen throughout the day by James and his team, and by Mark Richmond, Innovation Development Chef at ASDA. James said: “I’m very passionate about bringing young people into the industry. The standard this year was brilliant – I’m sure I couldn’t cook this well at their age!” Mark said: “I can’t believe the quality and standard of cooking from these young chefs – the flavours are absolutely outstanding. It’s really exciting for me to be able to announce that a product from one of them will be landing on ASDA’s shelves in the near future.”

JSR CEO Tim Rymer said: “We’ve never had such a high standard of entries as we have this year – all the three finalists are excellent chefs.” As part of his prize, Kurtus also received a work placement with sponsors and food suppliers Cranswick plc, whose Sales and Marketing Director Marcus Hoggarth said: “The three finalists are all incredibly technically gifted. We look forward to welcoming Kurtus to our team to learn

Kurtus's winning dish: herb-crusted fillet of pork, apple and black pudding bon bon, Ampleforth Cider and butternut squash purée.


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7:45am The first chefs arrive. Early morning deliveries are made and all the produce is checked.

8:00am Helena and Emily arrive in the office and start responding to enquiries and making reservations.

A DAY IN THE LIFE You’ll just have to forgive the cliché, because it really is true: the Pipe and Glass is like a swan. You see – or at least we hope you see – a calm and serene operation, where your every need is catered for and nothing is too much trouble. But to keep that elegant swan afloat, there’s a huge amount of unseen paddling going on, from first thing in the morning until the very last thing at night – and all paddled by a team of usually unsung heroes. Here’s your chance to meet them, and see the things you wouldn’t usually get chance to see…

8:30am Breakfast is served to our overnight guests.

9:00am The chefs are busy in the kitchen prepping for lunch.


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10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  7



James talks the team through the day’s specials board.

Kate and the front of house team prepare for lunchtime service.

11:00am The housekeepers prepare the bedrooms.

12:00 noon Lunch is served!


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Afternoon deliveries from our wine merchants and a local brewery.


3:30pm Our overnight guests arrive.

4:00pm Toby and Molly arrive home from school.

4:30pm The tables are re-laid and food is prepared for evening service.


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10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  9

6:00pm Here we go again for evening service!

You Are Fab! by Peter Smith, part of the 2016 collection – now in gallery

197 Hallgate Cottingham, HU16 4BB

01482 876 003

01482 216060

10:00pm Clean down at the end of the evening.

90% of all of our properties are rented within 10 days.

90% of our stock has gone within 10 days

Midnight Thank you very much – goodnight!


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Vincent's vision If Pipe and Glass regulars do a double take when they see actor Vincent Regan having a pint in the bar, it’s probably not because of his famous face – they’re too used to well-known diners at their local to be phased by that. They’re more likely to be startled by seeing him in everyday garb – the actor, Welsh-born but of Irish lineage, has made his name as a handsome addition to some of the best-known swords-and-sandals epics, from the movies 300, Troy and Clash of the Titans to a six-month stint on BBC hit Atlantis, alongside fellow East Yorkshire resident and good mate Mark Addy. There’s more to him, though, than a great line in steely-eyed warriors – he’s also

Artistic Director of one of this country’s newest theatres, in his adopted hometown of Beverley. Vincent and his wife, actress Amelia Curtis, were living in East Dulwich when their now nine-year-old daughter Esmé was born, and they decided that they wanted their family to grow up outside London. Amelia was from the East Riding and one day, on a trip home to visit the family, the couple spotted a house in Beverley that they liked the look of. “East Dulwich is very cool, but we didn’t really want our kids growing up in London,” he says. “Amelia’s family run a farm near Beeford and we’d always thought it was a lovely area to live. It was quite spur of the moment, really.” It wasn’t long, though, before Vincent identified a hole in the cultural life of Beverley. “It’s a great town full of very clued-up people – but there was no arts venue,” he

says. “Pocklington had an arts centre, Goole had an arts centre. Beverley is the county town, it had some great festivals and events and loads of artistic people – but no central venue.” Vincent met through friends East Riding Council leader Steve Parnaby, who shared his vision, and offered a former Baptist Chapel being used as council offices and storage at a peppercorn rent. Everything was falling into place – and then the recession hit. “You can hardly lay off council workers then be seen to be funding an arts venue – it’s just not on,” says Vincent. His dream was put on hold for a few years, but with the help of a committed team of volunteers, the ERT finally opened 18 months ago with a festive production of A Christmas Carol – a sell-out – followed by John Godber’s hit show about the aftermath of the miners’ strike, Shafted! – another sell-out. Vincent starred alongside David Schaal in A Steady Rain, by House of Cards and Mad Men writer Keith Huff, which transferred to London and was chosen by both The Times and The Sunday Times as their pick of the week. And last Christmas, the ERT’s production of Oliver Twist was – you’ve guessed it – a sell-out. Quite remarkably in these days of subsidised arts, the ERT is entirely self-supporting, and receives no government funding. When he’s not slogging away at the artistic coalface of regional theatre, or travelling the world to star in movies and TV series, the actor and his family – Esmé has a three-year-old brother, Max – enjoy a visit to the Pipe and Glass.


Try and catch a show this summer at the lovely East Riding Theatre, where Vincent is Artistic Director James Veitch – Dot Con 10 June Suspicious emails pop up in our inbox and standard procedure is to delete on sight. But what happens when you reply? Half Deaf Clatch 11 June Half Deaf Clatch (Andrew McLatchie) has been impressing audiences for the last five years with his raw down-home sound and original songwriting. A Tribute to Victoria Wood 12 June Join She Productions and friends in celebrating the life and work of the late comic genius, Victoria Wood. Prepare to laugh. A lot. The Empty Nester’s Club 13–25 June From the team that brought you the multi-sellout Shafted! Don’t miss this brand new comedy especially designed for the East Riding Theatre. East Yorkshire Motor Services Brass Band 26 June Formed in 1989 the EYMS Brass Band quickly established a reputation as one of the most entertaining bands in the country. Becoming Hattie 29 and 30 June Thoughtful, funny, warm and nostalgic, this one-woman show takes an affectionate look at the life and career of a remarkable woman. You Boy 8 July Can the dead hear us? Two adoptive brothers grow up living in each other’s pockets. When one is left alone, how will he replace his brother’s love? Stephen Frost’s Impro Allstars 9 July The Stephen Frost Improv Allstars were all regulars on the original British version of the hit TV show “Whose Line Is It Anyway?” Beverley Puppet Festival 15–17 July The award-winning Beverley Puppet Festival takes place every two years and attracts around 9,000 visitors.

“We’ve been coming here for years,” he says. “We usually eat in the bar, but if we’re having a ‘bit of a do’, for a birthday, say, we’ll book and eat in the restaurant.

Le Vent du Nord 25 July With a great stage presence and energetic, dynamic flair, Le Vent du Nord are one of the leading names in Québecois folk music.

“It’s not just about the Pipe and Glass, it’s about the whole South Dalton experience – it’s a great place to go for a walk after a nice lunch.”

For more information or to book tickets, please visit:

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10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  11

BUILDING FOR THE FUTURE In 2009, a former stable block at the rear of the Pipe and Glass took on a new life which the original builders could never have begun to imagine. The rough-and-ready buildings underwent a major makeover to become two fabulously glamorous suites, complete with sleigh beds, fur throws, indulgently luxurious bathrooms, and the highest of high-tech facilities. James and Kate named them Sage and Thyme, after two of their favourite culinary herbs. The welcoming suites, each with its own private patio, proved hugely popular, and it didn’t take long before demand was massively outstripping supply – both suites were booked up months in advance, especially at weekends. So, as part of a major revamp of the gardens at the rear of the Pipe and Glass over the last couple of years, three more complementary suites were designed. Planning permission was granted in 2014, and last year saw the opening of the three additional herb-inspired havens: Rosemary, Lovage and Mint. Each of the five suites has its own small garden, featuring the herb after which it is named. “A big part of the charm of the Pipe and Glass is its setting and history, so it was really important to us that the new rooms were designed and built really sympathetically,” says James. “I think it’s a great tribute to the skills of the team involved, including architect David Hall from Skerne, our builder Pat Turner from North Frodingham, near Driffleld, and our interior designer, David Bird of Carol Bird Interiors in Beverley, that less than a year since they were built, newcomers to the garden struggle to tell which are the older rooms, and which the new ones.” Please turn the page to take a look at our five lovely rooms – and to book one, please call 01430 810 246 or visit:


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Rooms with a view: Mint, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme. Oh, and Lovage… We’re very proud of our five beautiful luxury garden suites, so here’s a quick tour, complete with comments from some of our happy guests.


“ Absolutely fantastic. Great food, great staff, great accommodation, great experience. Cannot wait to come back.”

“ Have I died and gone to heaven?!” Hatfield, April 2015, Sheffield

Jane & Mark, Sept 2015

ach room has its own very distinct personality, as you’ll see from the pictures on these

pages. But all five boast the same exceptionally high standards of comfort and facilities: super king-sized beds with Yorkshire handmade luxury mattresses; tea and coffee-making facilities with homemade biscuits; air conditioning; free WiFi; large flat screen TV; Bluetooth music system; digital radio; table and chairs; luxury bathrobes; Temple Spa toiletries, and a hairdryer. To book a room, please call 01430 810246 or visit the website:

“ Fantastic stay for the night. Unbelievable service from arrival until checkout.” Mr and Mrs T, March 2015, Hessle


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10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  13

“ We love this place!” Tony & Dree, Cottingham

“ Proper Yorkshire hospitality. Proper good food. Proper good night’s sleep. We will see you again!” Jerry & Mo, December 2015, Nottingham

“ Thank you for helping us to celebrate our wedding and my birthday. It was beyond special and amazing.” Mr & Mrs K, August 2015, America

“ Stayed in the Sage room – very relaxing and amazing bathroom. Food was excellent – better than we’d even imagined! Thank you – we’ll definitely be back.” Mellor, March 2012, York

“ What an amazing time we’ve had. This is truly a touch of paradise and thanks to James and Kate’s hospitality we will be returning again and again.”

“ Everything we expected and more! Fabulous!” Andy & Ali, December 2015, Hull

Mark & Mary P, August 2015, Dubai UAE


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Come into the garden… The lovely garden to the rear of the Pipe and Glass has always been one of our great glories – a fact recognised by The Times which named us as one of the UK’s top 50 restaurants with a garden two years ago. Since then, the garden has just got better and better. We’ve added three new luxury suites, carefully ensuring that they look as though they’ve always been there – no sore thumbs for us! We’ve expanded the garden’s culinary function, cramming in as many fruit trees and culinary herbs as we can – our kitchen brigade loves being able to just step out of the door and pick from such a wide selection of great flavours. And soon it’ll be incorporated as part of our restaurant, with an innovative and huge new table bang in the middle of the herbarium: a bespoke keyhole design which allows for easy, fuss-free service. Look out in the next issue of The Pantry for a major feature on all the changes…

Ten things you maybe didn’t know about the Pipe and Glass…

6. All of the milk and cream used at the Pipe and Glass is supplied by St Quintin’s Creamery, a family business in the Yorkshire Wolds which has its own dairy herd and oversees the product from cow to bottle.

1. T  he yew tree that stands in the Pipe and Glass garden is thought to be at least 400 years old.

9. James’ first kitchen job was washing up in The Park restaurant in his home town of Filey when he was just 13.

4. James’ signature ‘East Yorkshire sugar cakes’ are based on a 200-year-old recipe.

2. The new herbarium at the Pipe and Glass grows over 132 different varieties of edible herbs and fruit trees.

3. We use over half a ton of chocolate per year in our puddings, including our famous Five Reasons to Love Chocolate.

5. James and Andrew Pern’s Two Chefs ale, brewed by the Great Yorkshire Brewery at Cropton, North Yorkshire, is stocked worldwide including Dubai, China, Hong Kong and Japan.

7. The spire of St Mary’s Church in South Dalton stands over 200 feet tall, and is a prominent local landmark.

10. Fire ripped through the Pipe and Glass on 8 February 1989, causing tens of thousands of pounds worth of damage. The alarm was raised by an 84-year-old regular and two chefs on the premises at the time escaped with minor smoke inhalation.

8. The Pipe and Glass employs a dedicated team of over 40 staff.


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10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  15

The glittering prizes

It was never about the awards – and perhaps that’s why they just keep on coming.


hen James and Kate Mackenzie took on the Pipe and Glass ten years ago, the last thing on their minds was a cabinet full of trophies.

“We just wanted to turn what was then a rather run-down local boozer into a welcoming pub, cook some great food, and create a solid and sustainable business for our future,” explains Kate. But the couple’s pedigree – immediately

prior to the move to South Dalton, he had been head chef, and she had run front of house, at the Michelin-starred Star at Harome – soon overwhelmed their refreshing lack of aspiration. In the very first year, the Pipe and Glass’s relaxed ambience and fabulous food started to attract attention, at first locally, then rippling out to the regional, national and international arenas. It took just four years for the pub to achieve what many consider the ultimate accolade – a Michelin star, which came out of the blue in 2010, and has stayed ever since. Many more followed, including the coveted Michelin Eating Out in Pubs Dining Pub of the Year in 2012, and the Good Pub Guide’s

National Dining Pub of the Year in 2015. Particularly pleasing to the Mackenzies was being named as Best Pub and Bar Operators in the 2013 Cateys, organised by The Caterer magazine, and considered to be the industry’s ‘Oscars’; and consistent success over the last few years in the Morning Advertiser’s Top 50 Gastropub Awards – the Pipe and Glass has climbed steadily from fourth place in 2013 to second in 2016. “The Caterer and The Morning Advertiser are the industry standard publications for restaurants and pubs,” says James. “So those awards are voted by a ‘jury of our peers’, and are particularly thrilling.”




One Michelin star, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Best Pub and Bar Operators 2013

Placed in top 100 UK restaurants 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014


THE GOOD PUB GUIDE: County Dining Pub of the Year 2011, 2014, 2015, 2016; National Dining Pub of the Year, 2015

Presented by the Visit Hull and East Yorkshire tourist board for the person who has done most for tourism: James Mackenzie, 2013

THE GOOD FOOD GUIDE: Placed at number 6, top 50 UK pubs, 2015 (cooking score 5)

MICHELIN EATING OUT IN PUBS GUIDE: Dining Pub of the Year 2012



Taste of England Award, 2009

YORKSHIRE TOURISM AWARDS: Taste of Yorkshire Award, 2008



Placed in top 40 restaurants outside London, 2008

Notable wine list 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 two AA rosettes


YORKSHIRE LIFE: James Mackenzie, Chef of the Year, 2010/2011

Placed at number 4, 2013, 2014, number 3, 2015

THE JOURNAL: Restaurant of the Year 2007, 2011

THE SUNDAY TIMES: Placed at number 84, top 100 restaurants 2011

SQUARE MEAL MAGAZINE: Top 100 restaurants outside London, 2015

YORKSHIRE LIFE: Restaurant of the Year, 2007/2008

THE SUNDAY TIMES: Placed at number 2, Britain’s top gastropubs

THE TIMES: Top 50 restaurants with a garden, 2014

NORTHERN HOSPITALITY AWARDS: James Mackenzie, Northern Chef of the Year, 2010

NORTHERN RESTAURANT & BAR SHOW: Included in top 50 operators in the North, 2014, 2015


YORKSHIRE LIFE: Dining Pub of the Year, 2006/2007

DELICIOUS YORKSHIRE AWARDS: Best Use of Local Produce in a Hotel or Restaurant Menu award, 2006

DELICIOUSLYORKSHIRE: James Mackenzie, Yorkshire Food Champion, 2010/2011


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MEET THE PRODUCER James White Butchers Sausages, says James Mackenzie, are a guilty pleasure for so many people “It’s amazing how many people come in here and apologise for ordering sausages,” he says. “They say, oh, I’m so sorry, there’s all these wonderful dishes on the menu – but I just have to have sausages!” No one need to be ashamed of ordering sausages at the Pipe and Glass, though – they’re the best around. Master butcher James White’s sausages have been on the pub’s menu since day one back in 2006. They come in various guises – as part of the glorious full English served up to overnight guests, or as a ‘pub grub classic’, with good old-fashioned bubble and squeak, Two Chefs ale and sage and onion gravy. The pub also uses James White’s sausagemeat in recipes including the delicious black pudding and sage sausage rolls which are a garnish for a Sunday roast of loin of pork (also supplied by James). And they’re all freshly-made and delivered – often by James W’s 83-year-old dad, Tony – a couple of times a week. The pub can get through 60lb to 80lb in a week, and at an average of around five to the pound – well, that’s an awful lot of sausages. And every one is made with huge love and care at James White’s premises in Hutton Cranswick, less than 10 miles away from South Dalton. The tiny red-canopied shop is in an idyllic location, opposite a gorgeous village green complete with spreading horse chestnuts, lush village pond and a touchingly simple war memorial. It’s the front for a mini empire – behind it, James has his own kitchens and slaughterhouse, kept to meticulously high standards of both hygiene and animal welfare – the Food Standards Agency officials who have to be present at every slaughtering session are always hugely complimentary, he tells us. From slaughtering to sausage production is a matter of only a few yards – and James and his team of three see to every detail. The sausages are made using a combination of standard ‘commercial’ pig, and an assortment

of rare breeds, including British Saddlebacks and Gloucester Old Spot. It’s a delicate balance, James says. “We couldn’t just use the rare breeds, as there’d be way too much fat,” he explains. “But the commercial pig on its own isn’t fat enough – the sausages would be too dry. And I don’t like to add back fat, as it doesn’t break down properly – you’d end up with little lumps of it, like in a black pudding.” The answer is a careful mix of several types of pig, and several cuts of meat – usually belly and shoulder. What else is in there? “It’s all good stuff,” says James W. “Belly pork, shoulder pork, fine rusk, fresh herbs, and all-natural casings. I can’t give you the exact recipe, though, because then I’d have to kill you…” The recipe means that Pipe and Glass customers occasionally question why their sausage is still pink in the middle: “Once or twice we’ve had people think it’s not cooked through, but it is, it’s just the way the meat works,” says James M.

“ I learned how to make sausages from my dad… But I link them completely differently to both him, and all the others. I’m right-handed, but I’m sure I was meant to be left-handed – I do it back to front.”

“It’s because people have got used to cheaper, commercial sausages which use a lot of slurry,” chimes in James W. “It means you get this very even colour and texture all the way through – you don’t get that with a handmade,

proper sausage.” And they really are properly handmade – so much so that the team can all identify which one of the four of them has made a particular batch. “I learned how to make sausages from my dad,” says James W. “But I link them completely differently to both him, and all the others. I’m right-handed, but I’m sure I was meant to be left-handed – I do it back to front.” He’s had a long learning curve, too – his mum and dad moved to Hutton Cranswick when he was 16 in 1988, buying the butcher’s as a family business. And the Pipe and Glass customers really appreciate the quality of James W’s sausages, often stopping by the shop on the way home to pick up a few themselves. “There are two couples from the North East who come and stay at the Pipe and Glass maybe three or four times a year,” says James W. “And they have our sausages at breakfast, then pop in here on their way home to pick up maybe 20lb of our sausages to take home!”


And perhaps the ultimate accolade? When Kate Mackenzie’s mum visits her grandchildren, she always insists on taking some James White sausages home with her. James doesn’t just make sausages, of course: his is a general butcher’s, with pleasingly displayed information on where each day’s offering of pork, lamb and beef is sourced from – all farms nearby. While we’re there, a customer pops in and asks James to make her up 20 sausages – she’ll call back in an hour. Another drops by for just a pound of mince. A third mischievously tell us: “This is the best butcher’s in the village. Mind, it’s the only butcher’s in the village.” All of them are on first name terms with James, and clearly much-valued regulars. It’s what every village needs. James White also offers a hog roast for hire. Ideally suited to outdoor/marquee venues, it doesn’t require an electrical power source. A pig can also be cooked outdoors and carved and served moving indoors. For further information call 01377 270 243.

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Behind every great pub menu is a great kitchen

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HAND SELECTED WINES BY REAL EXPERTS The Cellar Door at House of Townend is an award winning wine shop based in Melton, East Yorkshire. We stock a range of over 1000 top quality, great value wines, beers and spirits from all over the world. Our offerings range from everyday drinking wines through to some fabulous fine wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy & the New World. We pride ourselves on working with small, often family owned producers so we can hand select our wines which means you won’t find them in the supermarkets. Working very closely with different wineries and suppliers also means that we are always able to offer great deals on Champagne and table wines. Whether you are looking for a nice easy drinking mid-week wine, a special bottle for a fillet steak, or you’re having a party for 200, choosing the right wine can be a challenge so we will always spend as much time with you as you need and include the option to try before you buy. As well as our extensive product range, we regularly hold events and tastings for those interested in increasing their wine knowledge, or just for those who are looking for a fun night out with friends.

Check out our range of wines, beers and spirits on our brand new website To speak the Cellar Door team call 01482 638899 or email


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10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  19

came from James’ first book, On the Menu, a straightforward approach to stunning food with great recipes. When the time came to present the list to Kate (very scary indeed, I can tell you!) every rule in the book was thrown out of the window: red wines with fish, white wines with game… The response was immediate. Kate smiled, and James immediately started exploring the food matches and the endless possibilities. I breathed a huge sigh of relief. We could now develop the list along unrestricted lines, introducing wines that one would normally not try for fear that this would not work with that. The set rule of ‘red wine with meat, white wine with fish’ was thrown out. Personal preference was now okay.

Ten years of drinking wine at the Pipe and Glass… By Simon Kershaw


have always been told that as you get older time goes by at an alarming pace. So it has been with the last ten years of the Pipe and Glass. It seems like only days have passed since Kate, James and I sat excitedly talking about the plans for their new venture. They were very clear about the style of food, service and ethos that they intended sharing with new friends visiting this wonderful old pub.

James’ signature dishes People often ask me what my favourite food is, and what my signature dish is. Both are questions that I find hard to answer.

And ‘pub’ was the key word that emerged time and again. It was clear from the off that this was not to be one of those restaurants where only diners were welcome. The food was to reflect the passion James had for ingredients, their provenance and presentation, and so it had be with the wine list: no tome that took eons to wade through, but a list that was clear, easy to understand and with a selection of wines that would complement the food, adding to a relaxed, fun and enjoyable experience. The staff were key, of course – their knowledge of wines and food groupings has resulted in the continuing development of the wine list. Kate soon noticed that guests were becoming more confident in exploring new

There’s a potted pork starter, for instance, which is on the menu today and has been there and pretty much the same from day one: a fantastic, simple dish using pork, the crackling in a salad, some sticky apple and lovely spelt toast. It may have evolved slightly over the years, but you can’t change the simple things too much – it’s still a favourite of many of our customers today.

She set me the challenge of developing the list in a new direction, reflecting the style that was evolving at the Pipe and Glass – a style that had by then been recognised by no less than the Michelin ‘Red’ Guide with a star.

Simon Kershaw House of Townend

A list was needed that challenged all traditions, but more importantly truly reflected all that Kate and James had achieved and was important to them both. The inspiration

Other signature dishes only appear on the menu at certain times of year, depending on the seasons, and those I might develop a little more each year, such as the lamb Barnsley chop with devilled kidneys, nettle and mint sauce.

– certainly these have been reflected in our famous Five Reasons to Love Chocolate. I’m sure you all have your own Pipe and Glass favourites, and I try to showcase these in the ‘Classics’ tasting menu on offer upstairs in our private dining suite. These include the smoked haddock and pearl barley risotto, which doesn’t appear on the main menu too often. And a lot of the classics are in my book On the Menu – but even they may have changed slightly (and hopefully, for the even better!) since its publication. Signature dishes are always those that stand the test of both time and fashion. Ultimately, they’re the ones that people ask for again and again…

Depending on the time of year, the weather, and my mood, my answer to the first question might be a huge platter of salty-fresh shellfish washed down with a good white Burgundy; or, at the right time of year, when it’s in its prime, I love game – maybe grouse, or hare.

Then there are the dishes that combine the two approaches: we have a dark chocolate pudding, a little like a fondant, that’s baked in a cast iron dish. The basic pudding stays the same, but the flavourings and the accompanying ice cream, change seasonally: maybe sloe gin and juniper with damson ripple ice cream, or dark chocolate millionaire’s pudding with salted burnt butter ice cream.

The signature dish question is an even tougher one to answer. I guess I don’t have a single one, but several which have evolved over the years – all dishes which have stood the test of time, staying on the menu in one form or another since we started, and which I think some people would lynch me for if I tried to take them off!

exciting grape varieties, chatting with the team, sharing their opinions and challenging preconceptions about sticking to the same old wines.

This innovation was recognised last year when the pub won the new Wine List of the Year category in the 2015 Morning Advertiser Top 50 Gastropub Awards. The judges loved the informality and easy style of the great wines. They could well have been describing the Pipe and Glass itself.

New chefs in the kitchen, and new fashions in food, can also affect the development of our dishes


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20  |  T H E P A N T R Y 


Smoked haddock and pearl barley risotto, poached egg and grain mustard

Ingredients: Serves 4 FO R TH E R I SOT TO:

2 fillets of natural smoked haddock 100g pearl barley 500ml fish stock ½ onion, finely chopped 1 leek, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic rapeseed oil 200g arborio risotto rice 100ml white wine 2 handfuls of baby leaf spinach, washed 200g grated fresh parmesan 50g butter 4 eggs 1 tblsp white wine vinegar salt and pepper F O R T H E M U S TA R D C R E A M :

200ml whipping cream 2 tblsp grain mustard FO R TH E TU I LE S:

100g parmesan

Method 1. C  ook the pearl barley in boiling salted water until tender, drain and reserve. 2. S  kin and de-bone the smoked haddock, then dice into chunks. Heat the fish stock in a saucepan. 3. S  weat the onion, leek and the crushed garlic in a little oil in a saucepan until translucent (do not colour), add the rice and cook for another couple of minutes stirring constantly. Heating the rice through at this point helps it absorb the flavours. Add the white wine to the rice and cook out for about 1-2 minutes, then start to add the fish stock a couple of ladles at a time over a medium heat until it is all absorbed. Then add more: this should take about 10 minutes in total. Once done, add the pearl barley and haddock, and cook for 2 minutes, then add the spinach leaf and cook just long enough for the spinach to start to wilt. Check the consistency, as you may need a little more liquid, then finish with 200g freshly grated parmesan and 2 large knobs of cold butter, and season. 4. P  oach the eggs in boiling water with a tablespoon of white wine vinegar. Once poached, take out and plunge into ice cold water ready for later use. 5. T  o make the mustard cream, bring the whipping cream to the boil with the grain mustard, and then blitz with a hand blender. 6. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. 7. T  o make the tuiles, sprinkle 100g of the grated parmesan thinly into four even-sized rounds on a nonstick baking tray, bake for 6-8 minutes at 180°C/gas mark 4 until crispy, remove from the oven and allow to cool. Remove from the tray and use as required.

James says: This was on our original menu 10 years ago, and hasn’t changed much over the years, even when we serve it as part of a party menu or on the private dining tasting menu. I think risottos should be packed full of flavour, and this dish certainly fits the bill. I suppose it’s almost my take on kedgeree, but without the curry – smoked haddock, finished with a rich and runny poached egg, a delicious grain mustard cream, and a crispy parmesan tuile.


8. R  e-heat the eggs in boiling water. Spoon the risotto into each bowl, and top with a egg, the grain mustard cream and a parmesan tuile.

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10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  21

Grilled Barnsley chop with devilled kidneys, nettle and mint sauce

James says: This dish has developed over the years and is now served with a crispy confit mutton belly and potato terrine. I love a Barnsley chop – it’s a cut taken through the saddle, which means you get a little bit of everything: loin, belly and fillet. You really need young nettles for this recipe: they give a lovely, earthy flavour to the mint sauce. Make sure you wear a good, thick pair of Marigolds when you pick them! They’re then blanched to get rid of their sting, and the distinctive smell

will fill the whole kitchen. Nettles are a fantastic, and very abundant, ingredient – try adding them to a watercress soup, they really add flavour. I’m always surprised how well this dish sells when it’s on the menu – not everyone likes kidneys. But this is so delicious that that I often do the kidneys part of it as a standalone starter with some good crusty bread. It’s essential to get a good colour on the kidneys when you fry them – that’s where the flavour is.

Ingredients: Serves 4


4 Barnsley chops salt and pepper a little chopped rosemary

1. S  eason the lamb chops with salt and pepper and add a little chopped rosemary, then place on a greased baking tray under a hot grill for about 10 minutes, turning after 5 minutes, and then rest in a warm place.


4 lamb kidneys dash of brandy 200ml whipping cream 2 tblsp strong English mustard 4 tblsp white breadcrumbs 50g butter 1 tsp chopped parsley 1 tsp cayenne pepper

2. T  o make the devilled kidneys, slice the kidneys in half and cut out the fatty sinew. Heat a little oil in a frying pan and fry the kidneys for about 2 minutes until golden brown and just cooked. Take the kidneys out of the pan and put into an ovenproof dish. Deglaze the pan with a little brandy, add the cream and mustard and reduce to a sauce consistency, and then pour over the kidneys. Mix the breadcrumbs, butter, parsley and cayenne together in a bowl, and then sprinkle over the kidneys and grill until the crumbs are golden brown.


4 tblsp nettles, blanched and roughly chopped 4 tblsp mint, roughly chopped 4 tblsp white wine vinegar 4 tblsp rapeseed oil seasoning

3. T  o make the sauce, place the nettles, mint, white wine vinegar and oil in to a liquidiser and purée, and then check the seasoning. 4. T  o serve, place a chop on each plate with two half kidneys, and spoon nettle sauce over the top. 5. A perfect combination to serve with pickled red cabbage and boulangère potatoes.


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22  |  T H E P A N T R Y 

Baked dark chocolate ‘millionaire’ pudding

James says: My take on the ever-popular chocolate fondant pudding – but baked in a cast iron dish and with virtually no flour in the recipe.

This can be prepared in advance, making it a great sharing pudding for a dinner party. We bake it, in lovely individual Staub cast iron dishes, to order – it only takes about six minutes.

Ingredients: Serves 4




Chocolate pudding 250g dark chocolate 125g sugar 2 eggs 125g butter 50g cocoa powder 40g plain flour 1 tbsp cornflour

100g butter 50g caster sugar 100g plain flour 50g cornflour salt (pinch of) ½ vanilla pod (seeds of)



1. P  lace all the ingredients in a mixer and combine well to form a dough. Wrap in cling film, rest for at least 30 minutes.

6. Preheat the oven to 180oC (fan).

2. Preheat the oven to 180ºC (fan). 3. R  oll the dough on a lightly floured surface to 1cm thick. Place on a non-stick baking sheet and bake for 6-10 minutes. Leave to cool.


1 tin Carnation caramel



200g cinder toffee ice cream sea salt flakes (to sprinkle) cocoa powder (to dust) 4 ramekins or 1 large dish

It’s been on the menu at the Pipe and Glass virtually since day one, with the flavourings and ice creams changing with the seasons. This version is a firm favourite of both mine and of our customers, and uses all the delicious elements of a caramel millionaire’s shortbread. We like to serve it with a salted burnt butter ice cream, but it’s equally good served with a cinder toffee ice cream.


4. W  hisk the sugar and eggs together until fluffy and white. Melt the chocolate and butter together over a bain-marie or in a microwave. Once melted, add the chocolate mix to the egg mix and whisk together.

7. B  ake the chocolate mixture for 5-10 minutes, depending on the size of the dish you are using. The pudding should be soft in the middle and crusty on the surface. 8. P  lace the Carnation caramel into a squeezy sauce bottle. Inject a little caramel into the cooked pudding to create little pockets of runny caramel inside the warm pudding. Dust with cocoa powder. 9. B  reak the biscuits over the top of the pudding to give a crunchy topping. Serve with a scoop of cinder toffee ice cream topped with a little more caramel sauce and a pinch of sea salt flakes.

5. G  ently fold the dry ingredients into the chocolate mixture. Spoon the mixture into individual ramekin dishes or an ovenproof dish and put to one side.

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10 th anniversary edition, 2016  |  23

THE NEWS IN BRIEF Yorkshire Chefs’ Certificate James is thrilled to have been in at the start on an exciting initiative for young chefs in the regions: the Yorkshire Chefs’ Certificate.

James’ little helper

Working with Hull College’s School of Hospitality and Catering, he has developed a scheme which gives those on the college’s Level 3 Professional Cookery programme the chance to work alongside and learn from some of the best local chefs, including James himself.

Avant garde highlights included red mullet with prickly pear foam, sea anemone, Salicornia and Katsuobushi vinegar; ‘semiliquid prawn’, marinated with rice vinegar and served with prawn’s head sauce, crispy legs, seaweed velouté and phytoplankton, and an extraordinary ‘Turkish Perfume’ dessert, with rose, peach, saffron, cumin, cinnamon and pistachio.

The logistics of it, however, proved virtually impossible – with over 40 staff, getting everyone here at the same time, freeing them up from their busy jobs, and getting the weather right, was, as you can imagine, a bit of a nightmare. But to celebrate our 10th anniversary, we decided it had to be done – and James even managed to borrow a cherrypicker from Paul Colley to give Tony the vantage point he needed. We hope you like it…

Regular readers of The Pantry will know that James is a hot ticket at cookery demos at shows and fairs right across the UK. It’s an exhausting business, but last year it was made a little easier with the help of a new on-stage assistant. Young Toby Mackenzie, now aged seven, stepped up to the plate to help his dad and charm audiences right across the region, including at the Driffield Show and Malton Food Festival. We suspect there’s a future chef there – but right now, Toby says he wants to be a farmer.

With relish… James was very happy to contribute a recipe recently to Relish North East & Yorkshire Second Helping, a 300-page book bringing together two of the best culinary regions in the UK. “Yorkshire and the North East are both beautiful regions with some remarkably good produce and some passionate and talented producers,” he said. “I’m delighted to contribute to a book which celebrates them.” You can buy the book now in bookshops and online at

Dates for your diary: 28 and 29 May: Malton Food Lovers’ Festival James with staff and students from Hull College - photo: Karl Andre Photography

Students working at ‘Gold’ standard on the Level 3 programme will be able to apply to take part in the Yorkshire Chefs’ Certificate scheme alongside their vocational qualification as part of their study programme. It will develop and assess their knowledge and understanding of the industry and practical skills, and give them hands-on work experience at different restaurants in the region. Successful candidates will also compete in a ‘cook-off’, with some great prizes. For more information, please visit:

Prawns, perfume and prickly pears When the Pipe and Glass was placed at number 2 in the Morning Advertiser’s Top 50 Gastropub Awards earlier this year, there was a surprise bonus in store for James. In April, sponsors Estrella Damm whisked him and the chefs from seven other pubs named in the list off to Spain for a trip that included a visit to the restaurant recently named as the best in the world, and boasting no less than the maximum of three Michelin stars – El Celler de Can Roca in Girona.

Hitting the headlines Since the start of 2016, James and the Pipe and Glass have been seen in no less than four national lifestyle and food magazines – Landscape and Sainsbury’s magazines, which ran features on the pub; Olive, which praised it as one of the UK’s best value places to eat; and Waitrose Food, which loved both the food (‘truly outstanding without being ostentatious’) and the ‘supremely comfortable double bedrooms replete with dreamy mattresses’!

The Team Editors at large: James, Kate, Toby and Molly Mackenzie Concept creation, design and production:

The Malton Food Lovers’ Festival is fast becoming a mainstay of the late May Bank Holiday calendar in Yorkshire, and James is yet again at the heart of it. Not only is he again one of the show’s patrons, but he’ll be giving a food demo on the Saturday (12.30pm), as he has since this ever-popular festival started: visit the website for more info:

After a welcome from the trio of brothers who run the restaurant – head chef Joan, pastry chef Jordi and sommelier Josep, the eight British chefs, plus counterparts from around the world including New Zealand, Russia, the United States, Denmark and Korea, sat down to a feast to end all feasts.

Unless otherwise credited, words are by Jeannie Swales and photography by Tony Bartholomew: We want to hear from you – comments about The Pantry, and suggestions for future stories, are always very welcome. Please email


James and Joan Roca

And while James has no plans to put similar dishes on the Pipe and Glass menu in the near future – apart from anything else, it’s hard to find prickly pears in East Yorkshire – he did find the whole jaunt (which he describes as a ‘cross between a really well-organised school trip and the poshest stag do ever’) hugely inspiring.

12 – 14 July: The Great Yorkshire Show Let’s hope for great summer weather this year for the granddaddy of them all – the Great Yorkshire Show. You can catch James on the first day, Tuesday, from 12.45 to 1.15pm in the Game Theatre, and again from 2.15pm to 2.45pm in the Food Hall theatre.

For a full and colourful account of the trip, read journalist’s Daniel Woolfson’s piece here:

Stop press! We've just heard that the Pipe and Glass has been named as one of Restaurant magazine's top 100 places to eat out in the UK in its prestigious annual National Restaurant Awards - keep an eye on our website to find out where we're placed:

20 July: Driffield Show And one final demo confirmed for this summer – a little closer to home, James will be demonstrating at this year’s Driffield Show: 12 September: Cooking against Cancer

What a team! We know from the comments we receive that a lot of you enjoy our ‘Big Picture’ feature, which sees the back page of The Pantry feature a single dramatic image – previous issues have seen pictures ranging from artist Bob Barker’s portrait of the Pipe and Glass in oils, Table for Two, to an adorable picture of a calf at the Pipe and Glass’s main dairy supplier St Quintin’s Creamery, taken by our talented photographer Tony Bartholomew.

James will be joining a team of fellow chefs including Michael O’Hare of The Man Behind the Curtain in Leeds, Andrew Pern of the Star at Harome and Kenny Atkinson, from House of Tides in Newcastle to cook for a very special dinner at the Rudding Park Hotel near Harrogate Organised by Tim Bilton of The Spiced Pear, who was diagnosed with cancer a couple of years ago, the dinner will raise funds for specialist cancer hospital the Western Park in Sheffield:

But right from the start, we knew that one day, we wanted to feature a team picture in that slot – with everyone on it from James and Kate to the lovely Mary, who makes sure the Pipe and Glass stays spick and span.

If you’d like your business to be an advertising partner of The Pantry, please drop us a line at We’re accepting just one advertising partner from each sector, so you’ll never see your competitors advertising alongside you. And each partner will be offered first refusal on space in the subsequent issue, ensuring you always have access to that premium space.

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24  |  T H E P A N T R Y 

The team, looking forward to the next 10 years… March 2016


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The Pantry - Issue 6  

The newspaper of The Pipe and Glass - 10th Anniversary Edition, 2016

The Pantry - Issue 6  

The newspaper of The Pipe and Glass - 10th Anniversary Edition, 2016