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detailed maps

of the city

issue 10  spring 2012 Easter week in Granada The magic of flamenco Granada from A-Z Spring fiestas, secret spots in the city Bringing live music back

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Felipe Passolas


letter from the editor

Managing Director Editor Layout & design Photography

Mark Stewart Ashley Lynne Venzel madeinPIOPIO Felipe Passolas Nathalie Ruiz

Time to come out of hibernation. Spring is finally here. It’s been an interesting winter to say the least. Hopefully the past few months have fared well for all of you. And here we are, already far into the new year, once again finding that time seems to fly by. Just a few short weeks until some warm weather, the infamous Semana Santa (Easter week) processions, and of course with Spring come the fiestas. Just wait, the terraces will soon be filled with cañas, I mean, people. And although we have had a beautiful sunny winter, the temperatures will start rising, the days will be getting longer, and those smiling, sunglasses-wearing faces will reappear. In the next few weeks we’ll see the city really come to life again. It’s a great time to be in Spain and my personal favourite, so don’t hold back, get out there and be sure to enjoy all that Granada has to offer.

contact granada insider

For general enquiries contact us info@granadainsider.com To advertise you can email us sales@granadainsider.com To include your event in our listings section agenda@granadainsider.com For comments to the editor info@granadainsider.com For our digital magazine and more visit www.granadainsider.com

As always we want you to be in the know of what’s going on in Granada this season, so have a good look through what we’ve got in store for you: the best spots to see the Easter processions, when and where to hit up the parties, and some great ideas for live music and insight into the flamenco world. And don’t forget, just because it’s Spring doesn’t mean there isn’t still snow up on the mountains. So if you’re looking to get out of the city for a weekend, remember (aside from Easter week) it’s low season prices up in the Sierra Nevada. Well, we hope to see you out on those terraces, caña and tapa in hand, taking advantage of the best thing about Andalucía: sun, sun and more sun.


A quick guide to the alhambra A very brief history The origins of the Alhambra are believed to date back to Roman times. However, the palaces and gardens were reconstructed during the Nasrid dynasty (13th – 15th centuries). It was transformed into a self‑sufficient city boasting fertile gardens, a functioning irrigation system and opulent luxury. On Jan 2, 1492 the army of the catholic monarchy (Fernando and Isabel) marched into Granada and the last stronghold of Moorish Spain came to an end.

What to see there

The Alcazaba The oldest part of the citadel and its watchtower yields spectacular views of the Albaicín and the city below. The Palace of Carlos V It is the youngest portion of the Alhambra, having been built in the Renaissance (1526). The Generalife The garden of the Architect is set outside the main area and was once used as the royal summertime escape. The Nasrid Palace The jewel of the crown, considered to be one of the most spectacular 4

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

examples of medieval Islamic architecture and extravagant attention to detail. (Specific time slots for visiting this area are given when purchasing your ticket).

How to get there Bus 30 / 32 in Plaza Nueva, ticket  1.20, bring change. Walking from Plaza Nueva, take cuesta de Gomerez and continue straight up the hill (25 min).

How much it costs Price per person  13, children under 12 free, but they also need a ticket. Buy online at www.servicaixa.es. Write down or print the ref. number, as you will need to show this, as well as your ID/passport and the credit card you made the purchase with in order to collect your tickets. At the Alhambra itself, tickets are on sale at the entrance only for the day of the visit. Be warned they sell out quickly, so get there early to avoid disappointment.

Daytime opening hours: 08:30 – 18:00 Night visit: 20:00 – 21:30


granada insider

6 In search of flamenco’s duende

8 Granada from A-Z

issue 10  spring 2012

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Easter Week City maps Events

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The Granada Spring Checklist fiestas

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Live music in Skiing in Spring Granada

30 Hidden Granada

32 Useful information


Filmmaker Josh Swartzberg takes us on his journey in search of the soul of flamenco in his documentary film Viaje al Duende

Pursuing the magic of

Flamenco 6

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

He just couldn’t shake it. That feeling, that curiosity, what is duende? Where does it come from? Where do you find it? Born and raised in Santa Fe, New Mexico, Josh Swartzberg has been surrounded by fla‑ menco musicians since he was a child. The music has resonated in his core for years and after living and working in Los Angeles for 16 years, Josh decided to take off on a quest around Spain in pursuit of the essence of flamenco. He wanted to experience the music in its truest and purest form. Along the way, he would document his experiences, all of the trials and triumphs that those entailed, in search of what the gypsies call duende. Josh had only one hope: that he would find “one moment, one moment of truth.”

“The duende is a power, not a work. It is a struggle, not a thought. I have heard an old maestro of the guitar say... The duende is not in the throat. The duende climbs up inside of you, from the soles of the feet.” Federico García Lorca


“When I first arrived to Spain with my idea to make a film I had an abstract maybe cliché vision of gypsies playing flamenco outside their caves. Whatever vi‑ sion I had in my head it was a far cry from the wellrehearsed professional stage. What I was looking for was a more personal look into the streets and homes of the flamenco world. What was most important to me was to find something spontaneous, raw and pure. I wanted something real and that may even have this thing that some call duende,” Josh narrates at the beginning of his film.

“A mysterious force that everyone feels and no philosopher has explained.” J. W. Von Goethe, on the definition of duende Some of the most influential people in his life in‑ cluded the legendary flamenco dancer Vicente Romero, also from Santa Fe, and his late brother Ru‑ ben and Miguel with whom Josh still remains very close friends. Vicente Romero is considered to be one of the most significant pioneers of those Ameri‑ cans who came to Spain in the 1950s in search of flamenco’s roots.

dancing to the strumming guitar and the clapping beat. But there is something far deeper, almost sur‑ real, that in certain moments, together the musician and the music elicit. This is referred to as duende. Duende is a mystery for most. The gypsies them‑ selves have a hard time defining exactly what it is, where it comes from and when it appears. Through‑ out his work, Josh conducts numerous interviews with both renowned musicians such as Luis Agujeta and those lesser known whom he met along the way. In the making of his film, he sought, above all, to an‑ swer that one question: What is duende? “Duende is what you have inside, that little thing that exists. When that comes out, then there you have it,” says one musician, guitar and cigarette in hand. “From a little thing, we let loose something enor‑ mous,” says another artist. “Duende, for me, is some‑ thing that appears whenever it feels like it,” says one gypsy while playing his guitar. To be clear, says one artist, “Duende is something that everyone has.”

With his documentary and a trained flamenco mu‑ sician himself, Josh had something similar in mind. His intention was to immerse himself in the most au‑ thentic of the flamenco world. And as luck may have it, that is precisely what he did.

Viaje al Duende doesn’t fall short in its authenticity and its impassioned expression of flamenco music. Josh brings us a documentary entirely removed from and untainted by the commercial flamenco stage and presents us with a compilation of the most gen‑ uine artistic moments. The only thing, in fact, that could be more real is if the artists were performing right there in front of us.

Many of us have a vague idea of flamenco which involves a guitarist, some indecipherable lyrics, a dancer and an occasional ole. We picture a woman

The documentary reveals Josh’s hardships he en‑ countered like when he was robbed of everything. Then there are moments in the film when the entire

audience roars in laughter when, for example, Josh asks the musicians one thing: Please don’t stop play‑ ing. The guitarists begin, and minutes later they stop mid-beat saying, “Wait! It’s just not there. We can’t play if it’s not there.” They, of course, were referring to the inspiration of duende. Viaje al Duende divulges the aspects of flamenco that we often don’t get to see: its spontaneity, its infectiousness, its spirit. In one memorable moment a family performs outside their house together, with a young girl dancing. Just as Josh began to film the neighbours started pouring out of their homes to watch or join in. Before you knew it, the musicians were in a world of their own experiencing what Josh had been looking for all along: duende.

For more on Viaje al Duende and its upcoming viewings visit viajealduende.org

Spring 2012

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A – Z of

Granada

Looking for things to do in Granada? Check out this list of what to see and what’s going on around the city. by Molly Spears-Piccavey, photo Felipe Passolas

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GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

alcaicería The streets just off of Plaza Bib-Rambla.

Its name derives from the Arabic term Al-Qaysariya, meaning a commercial area. It was founded in the XIV century and it’s one of my favourite areas of the city. bañuelo on Paseo de Los Tristes dates back to the XI century. This is one of the best examples in Spain of a bathhouse. For the modern experience with an Arab touch visit Baños Aljibe de San Miguel (www.aljibesanmiguel.es).

drink not the tapa. A great place is Taberna Salinas on Calle Elvira or La Pajuana on Calle Rosario. generalife In summer no visit to the Alhambra is complete without a stroll through the Generalife gardens. The water features and the trees and flowers are exquisitely maintained. An oasis in the summer heat. hotels in granada abound Two of my particular

favourites are NH Victoria & Hotel Peregrinos for the stylish decor and the location.

corral del carbón dates back to 1336 and used to be where the silk merchants arrived to barter with the local tradesmen. It was later used for coal, hence the name carbón. In summer you can see flamenco shows here in the courtyard. Located right next to the Alcaicería market.

italianos Huge queues for ice cream on Gran Vía. Opens on San José (March 19th) and closes on the Pilar (October 12th). It was established in 1936 and is renowned in Granada for its cassata ice cream and other wonderful treats.

día de la cruz is a special celebration in May and a

jazz The International Jazz Festival is held each

wonderful time to be in the city. Colourful spotted dresses, floral crosses in the squares around the city and lots of tapas. This year the festival will take place on May 3rd.

November in Granada. (www.jazzgranada.es). There are concerts, street artists and other events attracting some of the best artists to the city. kilometres of coastline There are beaches

easter week in Granada is very important. It doesn’t

attract such huge crowds as Sevilla, although the processions are just as traditional and equally beautiful. This year’s Easter week or Semana Santa is from April 1st-April 8th.

in Granada province. Head to La Herradura, Almuñecar, Torrenueva for a quiet day on the beach. It’s a 30-minute drive from the city (direction Motril). My personal favourite is Playa Granada. lorenzo boehmes book Read Granada, City of My

free tapas Along with your beer or wine in Granada

you usually get a free tapa. You may have a choice from a blackboard or a card on the bar or it may be what the establishment chooses. The cost is for the

Dreams for wonderful imagery and walks around Granada to see a more hidden side of the Albaicín and the Alhambra.


mirador de san nicolás I couldn´t miss out on this lookout point with its breathtaking magical sunsets. Have dinner nearby in Las Estrellas de San Nicolás or El Agua, Casa de Vinos.

unique geography In Granada province you can ski

in the Sierra Nevada, and drive to the coast 40 minutes away and swim in the sea on the same day. Amazing variety of climate, which enables for excellent production of fruit and vegetables.

nightlife Head to Pedro Antonio de Alarcón or Calle

Navas where there is an abundance of bars and pubs to choose from. Or head to Mae West at the end of Calle Recogidas. om khalsoum on Calle Jardines (in between Calle Gracia and Calle Buensuceso). My absolute favourite tapas bar. Try the couscous with caramelised onion. piononos A typical cake from Granada, named after the Pope Pius XI or Pope Nono in 1850. You must try one if you have the chance. quince A fruit that looks like a cooking apple. It’s

grown locally and is great baked in the oven with cinnamon and honey. riofrío This town is famous for its caviar which

has an organic certification. Visit one of the local restaurants or shops to sample this delicacy or some sturgeon. snow It’s a strange sensation for it to be a hot summer day in the city and to see the snow on the Sierra Nevada mountains. Skiing season usually starts in November and lasts until the end of April.

vegetarian restaurants In case you are vegetarian

or have visitors that don’t eat meat here are a few suggestions. Casa Lopez Correa, Calle Molinos, do a mean vegetable curry and have other options too. Raices is a restaurante specialising in vegetarian dishes, avenida Pablo Picasso 30. Fresco on Gran Vía has a large salad selection and is a good value choice. Babel on Calle Elvira also has some vegetarian options.

of the city. It was once Called Saqqatin in Arabic, meaning old clothes market and today has shops such as Mango and Cortefiel along it. Read more about an expat living in Granada at Molly’s blog: www.mollysp.wordpress.com, and follow her on twitter @piccavey.

water Granada has it all. Aljibes or water storage

tanks built around the city, drinking fountains, decorative water features, the Lanjarón water plant in the famous spa town of Lanjarón, the significance of water in the Alhambra complex, the river running beneath Plaza Nueva, the river views at the Puente Basilios... the list goes on! xauen A beautiful city founded by the Nasrids who once occupied Granada. There is a street in the Zaidín neighbourhood Called Xauen too. yoga In the Alpujarras close to Soportujar there is

a Buddhist retreat Called O Sel Ling. It was founded in 1980, and it’s an interesting place to see on a road trip around the Alpujarra villages.

trevelez At nearly 1500 meters above sea level, it’s

perfect for curing Spanish Ham. When visiting the Alpujarras stop here and have some jamón and a beer.

zacatin This street runs between Gran Vía and Plaza

Bib-Rambla, the most commercial shopping area Spring 2012

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fotos, Miguel Sanchez 10

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012


Celebrating

Easter week in Granada If there’s one event of the year in Granada to wit‑ ness, Easter week is it. The entire city transforms into a seemingly endless string of holy processions. Each procession departs from the church of one of the 32 religious brotherhoods, which organise the week’s events, and makes its way to the Cathedral, stopping for almost an hour until looping back. The processions begin with upwards of 30 men strategically situating themselves under the base of an elaborate 1.500-kilo statue to be carried on their shoulders while marching through the city. The men are called costaleros for the costal or sack that they wear on their neck and shoulders to ease the burden of the weight. The brotherhood follows, dressed in penitential robes, conical hats and often times bare‑ foot with shackles chained to their ankles as a sign of repentance. Tailing the procession are numerous women dressed in black carrying lit candles. You’ll find the processions not only passing down the main streets but also the winding streets of the Albaicín and Sacromonte and the small alleys in the city center. They move slowly and deliberately, most to the steady beat of the drums, while pausing to replace costaleros every so often or carefully round‑ ing a tight corner. The streets are flooded with Granaínos and tour‑

ists alike who participate in the celebration whether it be for the lively atmosphere or religious devotion. Starting with Palm Sunday (April 1) you’ll find various processions taking place at the same time making their way through different parts of the city. Each procession differs from the next in its route, dura‑ tion, statue and attire. As for the crowd, expect to find the well-prepared locals who come and set up camp with their fold out chairs hours before the procession starts so that they can have front-row seats. Then there are the runners who know the routes of the processions like the back of their hand and weave in and out of the crowds to see the procession pass at two or three different points on its route. (Don’t hesitate to follow their lead.) And when you look up you’ll find the few who stay at home to watch the procession leaning over their balconies. Of course the celebration wouldn’t be complete without Andalucía’s special Easter gastronomy. Typical dishes are made with codfish and garbanzo beans. As for sweets look for roscos, leche frita and empanadillas. Here are the processions that you can expect starting with Palm Sunday all the way through Easter (Resurrec‑ tion) Sunday.

Spring 2012

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palm sundayapril 1 Borriquilla Departure 16:20, Iglesia de San Andrés Arrival at the Cathedral 20:35 Where to see it San Juan de Dios/Calle Elvira Jesús Cautivo Departure 18:00, Plaza de Alonso Cano Arrival at the Cathedral 23:25 Where to see it At its departure Santa Cena Departure 18:30, Iglesia del Santo Domingo Arrival at the Cathedral 21:20 Where to see it At its departure or after its stop at the Cathedral in Realejo (see Map D) Las Maravillas Departure 18:30, Iglesia de San Pedro y San Pablo Arrival at the Cathedral 22:05 Where to see it Carrera del Darro (see Map B) Jesús Despojado Departure 19:30, Iglesia de San Emilio. Arrival at the Cathedral 22:45 Where to see it Calle San Antón Holy Monday April 2 Cristo del Trabajo Departure 16:00, Iglesia del Santísimo Corpus Christi Arrival at the Cathedral 20:35 (Will later remain in the Cathedral) Where to see it Puente Romano

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GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

Los Dolores Departure 18:00, Iglesia de San Pedro y San Pablo Arrival at the Cathedral 22:10 Where to see it Plaza del Carmen or Carrera del Darro Jesús del Rescate Departure 18:15, Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena Arrival at the Cathedral 22:00 Where to see it Upon its arrival at Plaza Jesús del Rescate Huerto de los Olivos Departure 19:30, Iglesia de las Comendadoras de Santiago Arrival at the Cathedral 22:40 Where to see it At its departure for the difficulty of the exit or in Realejo Cristo de San Agustín Departure 21:10, Iglesia del Monasterio del Santo Angel Custodio Arrival at the Cathedral 23:25 Where to see it Calle San Antón Holy Tuesday April 3 Cristo de la Lanzada Departure 16:30, Iglesia Ntra. Sñra. de los Dolores (Zaidín) Arrival at the Cathedral 20:15 Where to see it Upon arrival at Iglesia de S. Miguel Arcángel Vía Crucis Departure 18:15, Iglesia de San Juan de los Reyes Arrival at the Cathedral 21:35 Where to see it At its departure or Carrera del Darro where the Stations of the Cross are prayed

Esperanza Departure 18:15, Iglesia de San Gil y Santa Ana Arrival at the Cathedral 20:55 Where to see it At its departure, Plaza Nueva or after its stop at the Cathedral on Calle Elvira La Cañilla Departure 19:45, Iglesia de Santo Domingo Arrival at the Cathedral 22:15 Where to see it Plaza de los Girones or Calle Ancha de Santo Domingo Holy Wednesday April 4 Los Gitanos This procession is internationally known particularly for the flamenco verses sung, the bonfires as it makes it way to the Sacromonte Abbey and its 8-10 hour duration Departure 20:45, Iglesia del Corazón de Jesús en Calle Gran Vía Arrival at the Cathedral 23:50 Where to see it Plaza Nueva, Carrera del Darro and the Paseo de los Tristes on its way up to Sacromonte, or in Sacromonte itself Estudiantes Departure 17:30, Iglesia Mayor de los Santos Mártires Justo y Pastor (Capilla Universitaria) Arrival at the Cathedral 20:40 Where to see it Plaza de Derecho Jesús de la Paciencia Departure 19:40, Iglesia Imperial de San Matías Arrival at the Cathedral 21:30 Where to see it Plaza de los Girones y Varela


Virgen del Rosario Departure 20:00, Iglesia de Santo Domingo Arrival at the Cathedral 22:15 Where to see it Upon its arrival at Plaza de Santo Domingo or in Realejo Jesús Nazareno Departure 20:30, Monasterio de las Carmelitas Descalzas. Calle San Matías Arrival at the Cathedral 23:00 Where to see it Upon its return along Calle San Matías for the flamenco verses sung Holy Thursday April 5 Silencio This procession is different from the others in that the entire procession and the observers are silent. Departure 00:00, Iglesia de San Pedro y San Pablo Arrival at the Cathedral 02:40 Where to see it Follow it anywhere along its path. What’s most impressive is that the street lights are turned off along the way. Cristo de la Redención Departure 17:00, Iglesia de María Auxiliadora, Zaidín Arrival at the Cathedral 22:00 Where to see it Zaidín Aurora Departure 18:15, Iglesia de San Miguel Bajo Arrival at the Cathedral 22:45 Where to see it At its point of departure or on the narrow Calle Grifos de San José for its difficulty Virgen de la Estrella Departure 18:30, Iglesia de San Cristóbal, Albaicín

Arrival at the Cathedral 23:30 Where to see it Anywhere on its path in the Albaicín or upon its arrival to the Paseo de los Tristes Concepción Departure 20:30, Monasterio de la Concepción Arrival at the Cathedral 00:25 Where to see it Calle Concepción de Zafra for its narrowness, upon return on Carrera del Darro or upon its arrival at Monasterio de la Concepción Good Friday April 6 La Soledad This procession is attended by thousands who gather at the square Campo del Príncipe where the death of Jesus Christ is commemorated by praying the three creeds and afterward praying for three petitions. Departure 13:30, Santo Domingo Does not stop at the Cathedral Where to see it 15:00 Campo del Príncipe Los Ferroviarios Departure 16:30, Iglesia de San Juan de Letrán Arrival at the Cathedral 21:00 Where to see it Avenida de la Constitución and passing by the Basílica de San Juan de Dios

Soledad de San Jerónimo Departure 19:30, Monasterio de San Jerónimo Arrival at the Cathedrall 00:05 Where to see it Monasterio de San Jerónimo Santo Sepulcro Departure 20:45, Iglesia de San Gil y Santa Ana Arrival at the Cathedrall 23:15 Where to see it Plaza Nueva and upon its arrival at the Cathedral (Puerta del Perdón) Holy Saturday April 7 Santa María de la Alhambra Departure 18:30, Iglesia de Sta. María de la Alhambra Arrival at the Cathedrall 21:45 Where to see it At the Alhambra at the Puerta de la Justicia and at the Puerta de las Granadas (Cuesta de Gomérez) Easter (Resurrection) Sunday April 8 Resucitado y Alegría Departure 10:30, Iglesia del Sagrario Arrival at the Cathedral 14:30 Where to see it At its point of departure as it’s the first time leaving from this church

Cristo de los Favores Departure 18:30, Iglesia de San Cecilio Arrival at the Cathedral 21:45 Where to see it Campo del Príncipe and Calle Pavaneras

Facundillo Departure 11:30, Iglesia de Santo Domingo Arrival at the Cathedral 12:45 Where to see it Upon its arrival at the Cathedral (Plaza de las Pasiegas)

Escolapios Departure 19:30, Iglesia de San José de Calasanz Arrival at the Cathedral 22:30 Where to see it Carrera Virgen and Puente Romano

Resurrección y Triunfo Departure 16:30, Iglesia de San Miguel Arcángel Arrival at the Cathedral 19:35 Where to see it Puente Romano Spring 2012

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Looking for something new and classy? Chic new bar, new vibe, a perfect place to spend a night out with friends


Parque de las

Ciencias

The Parque de las Ciencias is a 70.000-square-metre interactive science museum, located within walking distance of the historic city centre of Granada. Since its inauguration in 1995, the museum has seen more than 5 million visitors, gaining international recogni‑ tion as the most visited museum in all of Andalucía. The Parque de las Ciencias consists of 7 permanent pavillions, among them a digital planetarium, audi‑ torium and 27.000-square-metres of outdoor space. Additionally, the museum reserves 5.000-squaremetres of space for temporary exhibitions which focus on either science, art or technology. Current exhibitions and highly recommended are Universos Infinitos, an avant-garde montage from the Dutch artist M.C. Escher, as well as the international production Tyrannosaurus Rex, Hunter or Scaven‑ ger? in which the public is invited to investigate the question by analysing the ‘evidence’ found in large robotic stages, interactive animations and physical evidence such as fossils (also on display at the Mu‑ seum of Natural History in London and Kokoro).

For more information about the museum’s exhibitions and activities visit www.parqueciencias.com. tel. +34 958 131 900 
 avda. de la Ciencia s/n 18006 Granada General Admission: 6 How to get there: Walking from the city centre via Camino de Ronda or Paseo de Violón (about 15 minutes) Buses: 1 and 5 (directly to the Park), or 4, 10, 11, 21 (Plaza de las Américas), 22 (Paseo Jardín de la Reina). The tourist bus also takes you there.


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You’ve seen that postcard with the beautiful panoramic shot of the Alhambra, right? Where does everyone manage to take that picture? It’s well worth the steep walk up to the top of the hill where you can snap a few photos at the lookout point Mirador de San Nicolás.

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ta

ros de na

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ta Al Enmedio ja a Ba d e VerVereda Enmedio

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ba

m

r

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ado

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pl. Carlos Cano

pl. Santo Domingo

de

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ra

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uz

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ra

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pl. Im Nueva lde prenta ría Vie ja

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Alt

ue

teq

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la rue

t Nevo

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or a

ta San

A

an

m

Elvira

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pl. St. Anna

REAL

pl. S. CHANCILLERÍA Gregorio

Marañas Correo ta Viejo

e Bet

LA ALHAMBRA

Al

Zenete

n

Ge

an z

IGLESIA SAN JOSÉ

José

Aire

rio

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fe

li era

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plta. s jale Carva

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res

PALACIO CARLOS V

Al m

T iñ a

Oido pl. San Miguel bajo

o

a

m

plta. Nevot

IGLESIA SANTA MARÍA DE LA ALHAMBRA

Zafr

S. Grego

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Gumiel S. José

Realejo

CARMEN DE LOS MÁRTIRES PALACIOS NAZARIES

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l

Alhambra

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ro

de

n Belé

la Rea l

ea

de O

dil

Rey

rio Darro

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el os San

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Horn o

Can

Carrera del Darro

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oria

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no mi Ca

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jo Vi e

C

o eri en t Cem

del

. cta

l Padre M anjón

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íz

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Vict

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ch

asas

ta d el

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ros de na Pa

il Tom

ustin

pl. S. Ag Charca

Cjó Victon. ria

Agustin Carril d e San

t. plc ad Ab

n

Sa

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o

ra entu Pl. enav S.BuPl. Salvador Aliatar

IGLESIA DEL SALVADOR

acrom ont e

Camin o

piz

Cha

Cu es ta

d

GENERALIFE

PALACIO DE LOS CÓRDOVAS

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da

in eP

rr rio Da

cue st de los Ch a de ino l s

os

ch

re Ve

de lS

ta Al Enmedio ja a Ba ed VerVereda Enmedio

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o sili Ba

s

D


s one Gir

cjó

del Pase o

Camino Ronda

Ag

lón l Vio o de Pase

Paseo de San Sebastián Ay ala Canto

Maestro Lecuano

ón

rio Genil

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us tin

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de Granados

co

Nazaries

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a Anch

Aragón

ma r Alh a

Ma

Chueca

blan

Ricardo del Arco

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ge n

la Vir

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Az hu ma de Mo nd eja r

nte s

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de

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r Zu

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ia Grac

e nt ce

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Jardines

Vi

r rre Fe

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Darrillo lena Magda

Infanta Beatriz

os e los Basili Paseo d

n

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Cárcel

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Tablas

Santa Teresa

Buensuceso

Dante

an

os mp Ca

a Fall

Marqués Don Gonzalo

be ra

S

pl. Gracia

Pedro Antonio de Alarcón

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l de

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de

nue Ma

s Ca

e sd illa

s at Pr

ill lar So

de

ia Grac

n

ro jei Te

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s ico

pl. Menorca

Prosperidad

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ól at

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n

Alta San Miguel

Seminario

Af a

dalena

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San D iego

Antó n

as ezuel Puent

la Mag Veronica de

Gracia

Trajano

sC ye Re

tí Zaca

n Callenjó eses Fra c

D Realejo

La

ñeda Casta

tin

CORRAL DEL CARBÓN

Marisol

CATEDRAL

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eS

te n. Tin

del

ld Rea rto Cuaano oz aL

go min . Do

Ribera

pl. Campos o i n

C

CUARTO REAL STO. DOMINGO

Saló n

s ro

Ca rm e

ste

os atólic

us Ang

de l

pl. STO. DOMINGO Santo Domingo

s ella Cru ela Var

s

ú Jes Sa n

lle Ba

pl. Isabel Católica

IGLESIA

pl. Carlos Cano

ría

a yM

Ja io to zm a s Ma t ar a tí ías Ros .An t ur ín M S ue e l Ho ta riq rno San San CAPILLA En o s epción a z Rubi c e a r n p o ó L v C d REAL pl. o Na Pie nim Jeró Mariana Pineda bia San ara s S àrtir La dro M San Pe pl. del e pl. Colegio Catalino et ríncip pl. P v i Carmen pl. n Romanilla Virgen Ga Bib-Rambla alamanca Bitaubin S el Pescadería de la ng rera r A a C Lucena Centro Puerta comercial Real Mesones o del Acera Acera del Casin Duquesa pl. Darro del Infantas Trinidad Acera iga Rejas de la Virgen ónd Alhóndiga pl. Alh a Lino g a r Pár San Isid ro San n Bazá

Did you know that a river used to run right through the centre of Granada? That’s right, the River Darro it was; but years ago it was paved over for hygienic reasons. The busy street that now lies above it is called Acera del Darro, or the Darro Sidewalk. Here you’ll find Granada’s biggest commercial hub and what was once the entrance to the city.

Gran Vía de Colón San

puerta real

e ro d Alva

The Paseo de los Tristes, or the Walk of the Sad Ones, is S nt more enticing than itamight Pa la sound. Running along the uRío Darro just at the foot of the Alhambra, the paseo was once the route taken during the funeral processions. Today, it o has hosted everything from nim Jeró San to bull runs. The festivals different paths up to the Alhambra also begin here.

Joaquín Costa Abenamar

A

Reyes C

paseo de los tristes

Vía de Colón


The Granada

checklist We recommend that if you want to feel as if you have really experienced (“done”) Granada you need to be able to cross off at least 3 from each of the 5 options per category.

22

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

History & sightseeing

Food & drink

alhambra

babel world fusion

Sound familiar? For the 5-minute guide to the Alhambra see page 3 of this magazine.

Try one of their gastronomic tasting journeys. mundo manila

parque de las ciencias

The museum is currently displaying M.C. Escher’s avant-garde work Universos Infinitivos and has an interactive exhibition Tyrannosaurus Rex, Hunter or Scavenger?

Must try one of their vegetarian or vegan tapas. sushi

Sit out on an Andalusian terrace eating Japan’s finest at Sushi Bar Bambu.

albaicín

traditional churros for breakfast

Get lost in the cobblestone streets of the Albaicín and sit out on a sunny terrace that you stumble upon.

Enjoy a traditional Spanish breakfast in Plaza Mariana Pineda (double points if it’s at the end of a long night out).

mirador de san nicolás Watch the sun set with one of the most spectacular backdrops in the world.

tapas

optional activities

Visit the Cathedral, Museo de Andalucía or Carlos V, or one of the monasteries (Cartuja or San Jerónimo).

Your visit is not complete without sitting out on the terrace of Navas 14 with, you guessed it: a caña and a tapa.


Cultural activities arabic baths

Bathe in the traditional baths and wash your troubles away.

Party time

The great outdoors

A Wednesday student night at granada 10

Visit the coast and swim in the mediterranean.

Grab yourself a cocktail at coco’s bar, calle San Matias 4

Hike in the sierra nevada, or even just the foothills closer to the city.

calle navas

Take a walk up to sacromonte and visit the abbey.

enjoy a flamenco performance

Many places offer live flamenco shows (but you get double points for stumbling across a spontaneous one).

Try la abadía for its great prices, atmosphere and tapas.

Sit out by the river sipping on homemade Sangria at totes y amigos.

take a flamenco class

Learn the first steps yourself and see how it’s really done. relax in kasbah tetería

Enjoy the authentic experience and aromas of al-Àndalus. filmoteca de andalucía

The best spot for art-house and original language cinema.

See the sun coming up as you leave the nightclub.

ilora, monachil, moclin, the alpujarras Get out of the city and visit one of the nearby villages.


Spring is here! Welcome it in the Spanish way...

The idiom couldn’t say it better: March comes in like a lion and out like a lamb. And we’re not just talking about the weather. Come March 16th the party-go‑ ing Granadinos all head down to the Hipercor/Corte Inglés just past Camino de Ronda to celebrate the coming of Spring with a lot of sunshine and some drinks. Or is it the other way around? As one of the biggest outdoor parties the city sees, it’s not just a typical Spanish botellón (to understate it, an openair party) but the botellón of the year. Spaniards love their sunshine and with Spring come the parties, and they’re not afraid to publicly display that, drink in hand, soaking up the rays. On Friday the 16th expect to see one group of friends after another join the crowd well-equipped with their choice of drink wel‑ coming in the warmer season. The party gets started around 13:00 and lasts long after sunset. If it sounds like your scene, try for an early start as it can get a bit sloppier as the sun (and drinks) go down. 24

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

or the irish way... Save some of that resaca until after Saturday March 17th because Granada’s got another party coming your way. We can’t forget Saint Paddy’s Day, which, whether you’re Irish, claim to be, or aren’t in the least, the day of shamrocks and Guinness is a great excuse to keep the party going. We might be in Spain, but let’s be honest, Paddy’s day has crept outside of its borders long ago. So head down to some of the best Irish pubs in town (either of the Hannigan’s) and get hold of a green hat, order yourself a stout and join the crowd singing along to, you guessed it, U2.

Hannigan’s and Sons I (Calle Cetti-Meriem, 1) Hannigan’s and Sons II (Plaza Fortuny, 8)


Live music in Granada Word on the street is Granada has seen a shockingly rapid decline of live music in the past few years. Granted there is the Jazz Festival every November, but we’re not talking about such extravagant productions but rather the more spon‑ taneous stage. The organisation Granada en Vivo, a group of musicians themselves, has set out to bring back live music to the smaller venues in Granada. Granada en Vivo claims that many professional musi‑ cians both national and international choose to live in Granada for its cultural richness, but the organisa‑ tion argues that Granada is at dire risk of losing its live music scene. The problem is not a lack of musicians. The problem is that licences are not given to small- and medium26

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

sized establishments which would give them permis‑ sion to host small live music events. Typically this is because of the concern of excessive noise. So what has Granada en Vivo got planned? The pro‑ posed project consists of a 3-month trial period starting March 16th in which they are asking the city to temporarily permit smaller venues to put on shows. The organisation has explained it then will evaluate the social, cultural and economic effects on the city and after returning to the council with the expected positive results, will later work toward permanent licences. As for the musicians, anyone who wishes to partici‑ pate has the opportunity to do so, and any establish‑ ment can apply for the temporary licence. However to keep it local, the participating establishments will be required to arrange that at least 80% of the per‑ formances are musicians from Granada province. After meeting with the city council twice now and seeing the city very receptive to the idea, Granada en Vivo says they are very optimistic that the ap‑ proval of the project will be finalised shortly and that the first live shows will take place starting March 16th, offering an alternative to the infamous Spring botellón. For more information visit www.granadaenvivo.com, on Facebook at Salvemos Musica Directo Granada, or contact them directly at info@granadaenvivo.com.


Ski season continues in the Sierra Nevada

It might seem a bit warm for skiing, but the Sierra Nevada will remain white for some time longer. In fact from March 23rd-31st the Sierra Nevada Ski Re‑ sort is hosting a Junior Snowboard Competition and will show off Spain’s biggest half-pipe for the free‑ stylers. Plus, from Monday-Friday during the month of March and the entire second week of April the resort charges its low season prices ( 40/day for an 28

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

adult pass). So now is perhaps the best time to head on up there. The Sierra Nevada also boasts a night ski slope (open Saturdays from 19:00-21:30).

Those who aren’t really into the snow scene, keep in mind the resort offers Physiotherapy sessions and Spa treatments.

To get there by car take the A-395 highway to Exit 31. Otherwise catch one of the buses from Granada’s main bus station which leave from Granada at 8:00, 10:00 and 17:00.

For more information visit the resort’s web site: www.sierranevada.es.


Hidden Granada

With the labyrinth-like winding streets and ancient narrow alleyways, Granada undoubtedly has a few of its secret hideouts. underground tunnels

One of the most revered but also best kept secrets is that of the underground tunnels that criss-cross the old Moorish city. Remember, the Alhambra wasn’t just a palace, it was a fortress. Many of the finest old houses in the Albaicín are believed to be connected underground straight to the Alhambra. These tun‑ nels remained active long after the Moors departed, allowing some to live quite clandestinely. mirador de san cristobal

While the Mirador de San Nicolás gets all the fame for being the best lookout point, on the opposite hill of the Albaicín is the Mirador de San Cristobal, boasting equally stunning views.
 neptuno shopping centre

Alvaro Taco Quezada

30

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

At the end of Calle Recogidas you’ll find the Centro Comercial de Neptuno. With a multi-screen cinema complex, an assortment of shops and stores, various fast food outlets and the Mae West bar and nightclub this is the perfect place to visit if you just feel like “hanging out at the mall”.


going out on pedro antonio

mcdonalds and starbucks

If you are wondering where the cheapest and biggest variety of bars, pubs and venues are, they are a little bit off the beaten track of the tourist centre, but you will find an endless supply of them along Calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcón. Did someone say chupitos?!

These are not actually hidden. Thankfully there are none in the centre of Granada.

a bar to smoke in

At the beginning of 2011 the smoking ban was intro‑ duced with surprising success. Overnight, the major‑ ity of cafés and bars became smoke-free. However, if lighting up with a late-night drink falls into one of your vices, there are still a small number of places where you can indulge. Keep your ears perked for them, because unfortunately for liability we cannot print any names or addresses here.

Other things that are kept well-hidden in Granada: – The construction plans for the second half of the underground metro system. – The final syllable when speaking to a local Granadino. – Job vacancies of any sort for all 20-somethings. – The secret affection for Sevillanos. – Funding for the half-built Lorca Cultural Centre in Plaza Romanilla.


Useful information transportation

Bus Estación de Autobuses avenida de Juan Pablo II, 18013 Granada City buses Most city bus lines run down Gran Vía de Colón. If you’re going to travel frequently by bus around the city, it is advisable to get hold of a credibus pass. By paying a  2 deposit you can top the card up with  5, 10 or 20 and travel for  0,80 instead of  1,20. You get your deposit back when you return the card. Metropolitan buses Most of the buses connecting the suburbs to Granada’s city center depart from Palacio de Congresos. They are run by a different company called Consorcio de Transporte Metropolitano. A single trip costs  1,35, but frequent travelers should consider buying a card from any tobacco estanco as the single trip will then cost  0,90. www.ctagr.com

32

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

Intercity buses If you’re traveling to another city, the buses leave from the Estación de Autobuses on avenida de Juan Pablo. Catch the city bus Line 33 from Gran Vía de Colón to get there. The main bus company is Alsa (tel. +34 902 422 242). www.alsa.es Train Estación de tren avenida de los Andaluces, s/n 18014 Granada www.renfe.es airport

Aeropuerto de Granada Carretera de Málaga,s/n 18330 Chauchina (Granada) www.aena-aeropuertos.es taxi

For all general taxis call: +34 958 280 654 Basic tariff: Meter starts at  1,40 and  0,76/km Weekends, holidays and between 22:00 and 07:00: Meter starts at  1,76 and  0,96/km Saturdays and holidays between 01:00 and 06:00: Meter starts at  2,20 and  1,19/km theatres and cinemas

Teatro Isabel la Católica acera del Casino, s/n Palacio Condes de Gabia Plaza de los Girones, 1 Centro Cultural Caja Granada avenida de la Ciencia, 2 Sala de Exposiciones Fundación Caja Rural avenida Don Bosco, 2 Auditorio Municipal Manuel de Falla Paseo de los Mártires, s/n

Fundación Agua Granada, Aljibe del Rey Placeta del Cristo de las Azucenas, s/n Cinema 2000 Centro Comerical Neptuno, calle Arabial, s/n Filmoteca Andalucía Profesor Sainz Cantero, 6 Café Aliatar Calle Recogidas, 2 Centro de Cultura Contemporánea Universidad Calle Oficios, s/n tourist offices

Plaza del Carmen/Ayuntamiento Plaza de Mariana Pineda Plaza Santa Ana in case of emergency

National Police: 091 Ambulance: 112 Fire: 080 (Granada metropolitan area) Police Office: Comisaría de Policía de Granada, Calle Campos 3, tel. +34 958 808 502 sports

Campus Universitario Fuentenueva Calle Doctor Severo Ochoa Swimming pool Monday through Friday 08:00-22:00; last entrance 21:00 Saturday 09:00-18:30; last entrance 17:30 Prices: Students  3; non-students  4 Tennis courts Opening hours: 09:00-14:00; 15:00-20:00; except holidays Price: Students  4,50; non-students  5


The best of facebook Dear Facebook users, how does your status compare to these? BTW, feel free to steal, IDK, the one that makes you LOL the most. How do you get to be that guy who waves the chopsticks at the orchestra? I feel like I could do that. Proud of myself. I finished a jigsaw puzzle in 6 months and the box said 2-4 years. I stepped on a frosted flake. I guess that makes me a cereal killer. They say the best thing to do for a woman is to make her laugh. I’d feel better if I actually spoke before she started laughing.

34

GRANADA INSIDERSpring 2012

Someone told me you can pay for stuff on the internet by putting your credit card in the cd slot… Is that true? Because that’s the smartest thing I’ve ever heard. [Comment] I tried it, but it says it only takes round discs. Goodbye America, Hello New York! I think Titanic is fake, ‘cause how do they record it when all the people are dieing [sic] in the water? [Comment] So wait, the people in the movie aren’t alive? :/

Man I feel like eating something, like, you know What I’m talking about?

Chicken corn on blue for dinner?

Does the new year start at 12 or 1?

There is no I in Happyness.


“Andalusian gastronomy from the ancient kingdom of Granada”

. Meat. fish. vegetables . Confectionary . teas . juices . snacks . Aphrodisiac cocktails hot and cold .

. more than 30 free TAPAS to choose from . Kitchen open daily from 12h00 calle Elvira 18 – 958 220 802

Granada Insider No.10 Spring 2012  

All the best about Granada, semana santa, flamenco, food, drink, culture and much more.

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