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PelAYO DIAZ ZAPICO WINTER TRENDs FRANK sWAIN METROPOLIs PRIZEs

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ZEITGEIst MAN - IssUE ONE - sEPTEMBER 2010


CONTENTs Issue one - sEPTEMBER 2010

TREND - TARTAN TAKEs OVER 17

Stay ahead this winter with warm patterns and plaids

BELIEVE THE Wu Lyf HYPE? 18

Why you should care about the most secretive band around

AUTUMN’s BEsT ART EVENTs 21

Zeitgeist picks the season’s top exhibitions and fairs

REMAsTERING METROPOLIs 22 A Fritz Lang re-release that is worth watching

TREND - sHEEPsKIN AND sHEARLING 24 Expert fashion advice on how best to wear this must-have fabric

REMEMBERING JIMMY DEAn 27

Marking the 55th anniversary of the iconic actor’s death

INTRODUCING NEW BAND: PRIZEs 30 Zeitgeist brings you some music worth remembering

MENsWEAR MAsTER MARTYN BAL 34 Getting to know Versace’s head menswear designer

FLAsHY TALENT - PHOTOGRAPHERs 41

Zeitgeist’s first Bright Young Things feature celebrating new artists

D.I.Y. sERIEs - INsIDE THE ZINE sCENE 49

Exploring the Do It Yourself approach, starting with self publishing

THE LIVERPOOL MUsIC COMMUNITY 52 Uncovering the northern city’s often ignored musical talents

BLOGGER’s DELIGHt - PeLAYO DIAZ ZAPICO 56 Talking with the Internet sensation about how he’s changing fashion

sCIENCE PUNK’s FRANK sWAIN 66

The writer reveals exclusive details about his new book

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pThis image is a preview of cover star Martyn Bal’s latest collection. See the entire range on page 34.

t Every month Zeitgeist commissions an artist to design its opening page, celebrating artistic talent whilst creating a collectable pull out poster to mark each issue. This month’s is designed by graphic artist Horse. Find out more at zeitgeistman.com/horse. ZEITGEIsTMAN.COM

FRONT COVER AND THIS PAGE: IMAGES PROVIDED BY IPR©

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EDITOR’s LETTER MANIFEsTO

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Check out Graeme’s daily blog

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Graeme Moran, Editor

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he literal translation of the word Zeitgeist is ‘time spirit’, a definition that illustrates more clearly the concept behind this publication. Just like you, Zeitgeist is not only interested in what is happening right now, but rather what was then, what is now and what will be next. This is why we are the only monthly men’s magazine that brings you exactly what you want and need to know from the worlds of art, fashion and culture. As Hari Ashurst, front man of new band Prizes, rightly says on page 30, “almost all culture is now a sample of something else that has come before.” So, in order to capture the true spirit of the times, Zeitgeist brings you the very best in creative culture from the past, the present and the future. From the undiscovered and the up-and-coming, to the influential, iconic and timeless, this and future issues of Zeitgeist will act as your new cultural handbook. In this month’s magazine we talk to Versace’s head menswear designer, Martyn Bal, who reveals the intriguing theories and inspirations behind his excellent sartorial creations (page 34). We also chat to blogging-extraordinaire Pelayo Diaz Zapico (page 56), writer Frank Swain (page 66) and uncover Liverpool’s bustling music scene (page 52) whilst bringing you an insider’s look at the world of zines and self publishing (page 49). On top of all this, look out for exclusive daily content on our website, zeitgeistman.com, where you will find videos, music and extended interviews.

ZEITgEIsT MAN.COM Go online for up-to-the-minute news, blogs and extended content. Read, watch, listen and interact about all things Zeitgeist. ZEITGEIsTMAN.COMYou

can also visit itunes.com to download the official Zeitgeist application for Apple’s iPhone or iPad.

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ContRIbUTors

Horse, aka Gary McGarvey, is a graphic artist from Donegal, Ireland. At 28 years old he runs his own design company and makes images for bands around the world. Zeitgeist commissioned him to create this issue’s opening page image, a pull-out poster designed by a different artist each month.

Marie Davies is a 25-year-old fashion journalist, from Milton Keynes. She is Head Fashion Writer for Drapers, the fashion industry’s biggest business magazine. As Zeitgeist’s style expert, she recommends how to wear the season’s top winter trends, tartan (page 17) and shearling (page 24).

Jonathan Flanders is a photographer and student from Whiston, Merseyside. At 21, he is studying Styling and Image Making at the University of Salford and is featured in the first of Zeitgeist’s Bright Young Things series (page 41), which this month exhibits up-andcoming photography talent.

Where did the name Horse come from? It’s just a saying back home, everyone gets called horse!

As Zeitgeist’s style expert, what are your top tips for men? Keep it simple in terms of silhouette but it is always good to challenge yourself with pattern or colour. I would advise to keep to one statement piece with the rest understated. Don’t try too hard either; there is nothing worse than a guy who looks overly groomed.

What is it you love about photography? It’s a feeling of accomplishment and pride when you see a photo come to life.

What is it you love about graphic design? It’s the perfect job! I get to draw pictures all day long for bands that I’m really into; doesn’t get much better than that. It’s never a chore to go to work either. What would you say are your main influences? Years ago I fell in love with Andy Warhol and the simplicity of his work. And music definitely. So what is your favourite album? And So I Watch You From Afar’s self titled debut or Adebisi Shank’s new album, This is the Second Album by a Band Called Adebisi Shank. If you could travel anywhere in time, where would you go? I would probably go back to the days of Kraut rock.

What do you love about fashion? You can play all sorts of different characters according to how you dress. People often make assumptions too readily on how people dress, I like to mix it up and be unpredictable in my choices. If you could travel to any place in time, when would it be? I’d go back to the late fifties to early sixties. I love the attention to detail in fashion and the whole elation there was following the end of the war, it seemed like a time when people started coming together to push boundaries in every social and political sense.

You recently interned with American photographer Ryan McGinley. How was that? Amazing! I first went to New York to interview for a summer internship. I was selected, and so I packed up and left for America for three months. What happened changed my life. You contribute a photograph to this issue. What is the story behind it? The girl in the photo is my best friend, like most of my work. She is lying in a farmer’s field in a place called Boozencourt! We had just woken up after driving all night on our way to the French Riviera on a road trip. If you could travel to any period in time, when would it be – past, present our future? Obviously I’d go to the future! Just to see what’s happening.

ZEITGEIsTMAN.COM - twitter.com/ZEITGEIsTMAN - FAcebook.com/ZEITGEIsTMAN - youtube.com/ZEITGEIsTMAN

All content written, designed and edited by Graeme Moran graememoran@zeitgeistman.com - 0207 456 1978 Northumberland House, Northumberland Road, London, W1 6GM For all subscription enquires visit zeitgeistman.com All original editorial content of Zeitgeist (Man) is protected by copyright. Many interviewees have only agreed to limited distribution for university coursework purposes. For permission to reproduce in part or whole, please contact Cathy Darby, Course Leader for MA Magazine Journalism: cmdarby@uclan.ac.uk. ZEITGEIsTMAN.COM

BRING IT TO LIFE

Plug Zeitgeist into Augmented Reality (AR) and watch it come alive; see models walk across the pages, play integrated videos and listen to embedded music. All you need is our unique code (pictured right), a phone or laptop with a camera and an AR code reader. Visit zeitgeistman.com/AR for all the details and to download our free code reader. 13


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FAsHION

Be brave and make a statement in this season’s boldest pattern

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his winter the fashion capitals of Paris, Milan, New York and London were invaded by an assortment of checks and plaids as tartan took over the catwalks. Recalling the highlands of Scotland, this traditional pattern made its way into almost every collection, establishing itself as a musthave winter trend. From trousers to t-shirts, jumpers and jackets, everything got the tartan treatment. Both Salvatore Ferragamo and Kenzo used conventional patterns for their statement outerwear pieces, bringing classic autumnal shades of red and gold to luxury woollen pea coats and hardy duffels. Whilst some stuck to typically Scottish shades, other designers chose to modernise the trend by introducing a range of more unusual colour variations. French label Maison Martin Margiela and Roberto Cavalli both created bold monochrome plaid patterns, whilst other brands brought in bright

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blues, greens and even yellows. Some designers chose to exaggerate the trend with more daring head-to-toe looks. Miharayasuhiro opted for entire outfits in oversized patterns, whilst Duckie Brown created outlandish clashes by bringing together mismatched prints. Intimidated by tartan? Not to worry, as Zeitgeist’s fashion expert, Marie Davies, has lots of hints and tips on how best to pull off this look. She says: “Tartan is enough to send a shiver down even the most fashion forward spine so tread carefully to ensure you look more McQueen and less Braveheart.” Marie believes clashing patterns are the best way to go, and suggests teaming a dark tartan cotton trouser with a red cotton and wool mix tailored shirt. She adds: “If clashing colours sounds a bit too much to handle, how about a tartan wool coat with a pair of heavy cords or chinos, both will complement the print and are bang on trend.”

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NEW MUsIC

Wu WHO? Why you should care about these mischief-makers

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ome people believe that there is nothing more interesting than a mystery. If this is the case, one new band from Manchester are very, very interesting. The elusive Wu Lyf (pronounced Woo Life), are experts in deception, misinformation and mystique. By attempting to remain completely anonymous, they have created such a cloud of curiosity around themselves that they are driving the music industry into a frenzy. Whilst record labels and journalists clamour for information, the band simply retreat in secrecy. They refuse interviews, never promote their gigs and often perform under different names. One photograph published on their website shows three masked band members, whilst another suggests a possible nine. But is this all just an intelligent

marketing ploy, creating an excited fervour around themselves before they release an album? Are they simply five teenagers relishing the chase of industry insiders and laughing at music journalists? Or are they attempting to show the fickle nature of the industry, where people care more about who is sleeping with who rather than how well they play their instrument? Regardless of their intentions, what really matters is the music and, for once, the excitement is justified. From sublimely psychedelic harmonies to heavy, droning synths, their music is simply fantastic. Beyond the mystical image they have carefully created, Wu Lyf’s self-defined genre of heavy pop is something totally new and that is what is really intriguing. For once, you can believe the hype. Wu Lyf drummer Ryan Doyle - Photograph by Jonathan FlandersŠ

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ART Paul McCarthy’s Henry Moore Bound to Fail in the Sculpture Park at last years Frieze Art Fair

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Zeitgeist picks the best of this autumn’s exhibitions

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celebrates the finest young artists around, and the everal of Britain’s cities will be taken over by artists 50-year-old John Moores Painting Prize, which is the in the coming months, as a series of exciting fairs country’s leading contemporary painting competition. and festivals opens to the public. October 14 sees the start of the Frieze Art Fair, which The 20/21 British Art Fair starts things off on September takes place in Regent’s Park, London. Running until Oc15. In its 23rd year, this four-day event features the best tober 17, this is one of the only fairs in the world that in modern and contemporary work by British artists. focuses exclusively on living artists, therefore atHeld in the spectacular setting of London’s EIsTMAN.C G T O tracting exceptional amounts of unseen work by Royal College of Art, it promises an enormous EI Sept young talent. display of the country’s top talent, from 20th 15 - Sept 19 As well as art, the Frieze Foundation also century greats including Francis Bacon and 20/21 British Art Fair host a programme of talks, music events and David Hockey, to contemporary stars such Sept 18 - Nov 28 Liverpool Biennial film projects, as well curating the excellent as Tracey Emin and Damian Hirst. Oct 14 - Oct 17 Sculpture Park. This free entry exhibition Opening on September 18 is the Liverpool Frieze Art Fair places large-scale artworks into the gardens Biennial International Festival, Britain’s surrounding the fair and is always a must-see, biggest contemporary art extravaganza. even in the October rains. Running until November 28, this huge event Elsewhere, Birmingham city centre hosts Artsfest from sprawls across the entire city centre and brings together September 10 to 12, Rye’s art festival runs from Sepa huge array of artists from around the world. tember 11 to 26 and the Newcastle art fair takes place With a focus on ambitious and challenging work, the from October 1 to 3, to name a few. Wherever you are biannual festival always delivers something spectacular, in the country, there really is no excuse not to enjoy art and this year is no exception. Highlights include the this month. Bloomberg New Contemporaries competition, which Visit zeitgeistman.com for full autumn art listings

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FRITZ lAnG’s clAssIc REMAsTERED AGAIn But what is different this time?

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t a cost of over five million Reichsmark, the equivalent of $200 million today, Metropolis remains one of the most expensive films ever made. It was an epic creation, an icon from the early days of cinematic innovation; a bold and visionary work that changed cinema and popular culture forever. However, it has had a rather turbulent history. After being chopped up and shortened in its early years, Lang’s original 153-minute masterpiece practically disappeared. These drastic alterations later spawned dozens of remakes and this September sees the release of yet another. But why should you care? There is no doubt of the film’s pioneering cultural importance. Alison Smith, film studies lecturer and widely published critic, believes the film to be a true cinematic landmark. “The influence of Metropolis has been immense,” she says. “In fact it would be fair to say that it has formed a large part of the visual landscape of science fiction.” Smith adds: “The opening images of the vertical city of Metropolis, with its aerial metro and three-dimensional flyways, became the blueprint fantasy of the modern city, reappearing most famously in Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner.” But almost a quarter of Lang’s futuristic creation was lost in 1927, after cinema bosses decided to cut it down to the typical 90 minutes that was favoured by contemporary audiences. Although segments of the original have been discovered over the years, it was not until 2008, when a copy was found in Buenos Aires, that any version came close to Lang’s first creation. These findings have since been remastered and digitally restored and will be shown in cinemas around the country from September 10, alongside a reproduction of the film’s very first poster (pictured), designed by Boris Bilinsky. As Smith says, “with this new version we are approaching Lang’s initial ambitions”, and this is its importance. Almost 83 years since its release, audiences are finally able to appreciate the spectacle of Lang’s work in its entirety. You haven’t seen the true Metropolis until you have seen this. Visit zeitgeistman.com for full details of Metropolis’ screenings. Alison Smith also curates this month’s Zeitgeist World Cinema Club on page 64.

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FILM A remake of the original poster from 1927, designed by Boris Bilinsky

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TREND TWO L-R: GIANFRANCO FERRE, BURBERRY PRORSUM, BURBERRY PRORSUM,

L-R: JW ANDERSON, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, JW ANDERSON

L-R: BURBERRY PRORSUM, DUNHILL, BURBERRY PRORSUM

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sHEARlING Make sure you’re wrapped up warm in winter’s coolest material

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t may remind you of something your Dad wore back in the late seventies, but sheepskin and shearling are most definitely back in fashion. This hard-wearing stuff is the key material to invest in this season and is sure to keep you warm and safe from whatever the weather throws at you. Across the board, designers lined everything from boots, hoods and hats with the stuff, all bringing warmth to the season’s essential pieces. Burberry Prorsum was this year’s standout collection and led the way with this trend. Inspired by the shapes of World War Two pilot jackets, the brand gave this rugged fabric a luxury feel, with top quality materials and fine finishings. Their spectacular range of bombers, parkas and pea coats came in tough military shapes but the cosy feel of shearling softened each design. Hardy military boots were also lined with the fluffy fabric to guarantee toasty feet this winter. Burberry’s collection also featured the coat of season: a high-collared Aviator jacket made from chocolate brown leather with a thick sheepskin lining, practical and stylish. Italian brand Salvatore Ferragamo updated the traditional animal skin duffel, bringing an old design classic into 2010 by introducing a lined hood for those rainy days. Other designers played with the trend by dyeing the fabric, with Gucci and Gianfranco Ferre creating unusual blue and black versions. Zeitgeist’s own fashion adviser, Marie Davies, has some advice on how best to execute this look. For the more conservative shopper she recommends choosing “a pea coat that is simply lined with sheepskin on the collar and cuffs.” For the brave, she says: “To make a real statement the leather and shearling bomber will turn all the cool-hunter heads and military boots with sheepskin linings will get bonus points on the style front. The chunkier you dare to go the better!”


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Remembering a legend on the anniversary of his death

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n September 30 1955, James Dean crashed his silver sports car into an oncoming vehicle. He died at the scene, aged just 24. This unexpected tragedy rocketed the young actor into the public consciousness; quickly turning him into a pop culture icon whose impact still resonates today. From the troubled loner Cal Trask in the 1955 hit East of Eden, to the angst-ridden Jim Stark in the unforgettable Rebel Without a Cause, Dean will always be remembered as the great actor he was. His performances were always honest and intensely electrifying, drawing the audience in and lighting up the screen with his talent. As testament to this ability, Dean was the very first actor receive posthumous Oscar recognition, with a Best Actor nomination for his role in East of Eden. The following year he received a second nomination for his final film Giant, and he remains the only actor to have received two Academy Award nods after their death. Dean came to define an entire generation and continues to inspire and entertain audiences 55 years after his untimely death. If you have never watched his films, now is as good a time as any.

“Dream as if you’l live forever, live as if you’l die today” Dean just weeks before his death, on the set of his last film, Giant

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INTRODUCING:

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Hari Ashurst photographed by Nia Johnston©


How would you describe your band? Prizes is my diary. Not in a corny way but where some people see something and think “I have to write that down” or blog about it or whatever, I record it. Small things, like the noise the 149 bus makes when it sounds like it’s wheezing, or the children that run around in my apartment block. I record everything I find that interests me and build songs around them. Prizes used to be called Treasure. What happened to the old name? It was funny. There are so many rappers and bands called Treasure now and in the past and I knew that and liked it. It’s like you can’t lay claim to a G chord or something! But once we, as Treasure, started getting good press, one of those other bands stepped up and made serious faces. We had to let it go and its gone. We’re Prizes for good. For the video to your song Canada you collaborated with artist Jamie Harley. What was the thinking behind using the Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee montage for the video? I actually met Jamie for the first time last Friday and he has got to be one of the coolest people on the planet. The idea for the Tommy and Pam montage was all his. Jamie’s videos are something else. He gets into the skin of the song and feels the mood and then finds the right footage. It was really strange watching his video for the first time and having someone else’s vision totally capture exactly what you were shooting for in the song.

lots of different things together to create something new an important artistic concept for you? I think almost all culture is now a sample of something else that has come before this point, so why not be totally blatant about it. I believe that it doesn’t matter where you take something from, the important thing is where you take it to. On your website you say you used Youtube, Spotify, old records and even cassettes to rework different sounds into your songs. Is this idea of mixing the old and the new and reconstituting forgotten music interesting to you? That’s how I made songs when I first started Treasure [which later became Prizes]. It was like a video game, trawling the Internet for the right sound or something, and then singing over the top of these stitched together things. I made a whole album of that and then my US label told me there’s no way they could legally clear it. I sampled stuff like David Bowie and weird tribal cassettes and stuff in the same song. It was an illegal playground.

Musically, who would you say are your main influences? It’s a subconscious thing most of the time. When I was a kid my parents played me mostly African music, all these classical pieces like Pachelbel’s Canon and Satie, and then stuff like Bruce Springsteen and even Fleetwood Mac. I hear all of that but then I’m also obsessed by stuff like J Dilla and Italo Disco. It’s such a mix really. The easy answer is Hall and Oates. It’s all about Do you think about the visuals when you the chorus. Everything else is just foreplay. are creating your music? I think music and lyrics should make their What genres influence you the most? Do own images. Listening to the Junior Boys you see Prizes as fitting into one genre? Last Exit I picture myself on a dark Devon So many different genres. The Internet came motorway, or listening to Burial I still picture along at just the right time. I just used to sit myself walking around watching fireworks in my bedroom back in Devon when I was a teenager and research different eras of and looking at the moon. music, from Italo Disco and House to Sarah Your songs are often made up of cuts Records. But I don’t think Prizes have been from different tracks and your blog even put in one specific genre yet. I have heard describes Prizes as a ‘sampling project’. the word ‘Chillwave’ used quite a bit and I Is this idea of collaging and bringing like bands like Washed Out and Toro Y Moi

so that is fine by me to be honest. You have certainly embraced technology by releasing songs via the Internet and updating a blog for the band. How do you think the popularisation of the Internet has changed the way people create, distribute and even share music over the last few years? Is this a good thing? It’s nice that I can show a few people a song and then suddenly a lot of people are talking about it. But it also feels like if you haven’t done anything for a little while maybe people forget you are there. The Internet has made everything really fast. Somebody could write, record and release an album in a week if they wanted to. That thought is insane. In the past you played in several other bands, including Hackney Carriages and Norwich Unicorn. How has your music progressed from these earlier bands? I just wanted to make every type of music so I’d start a new band every week. All my friends used to joke that all I did was sideprojects. So I started Prizes. What is the plan for the future of Prizes? We’re taking some time out to make some songs. We keep just putting out odd songs that don’t fit together. Now I want to make something that sounds like a whole thing. Who do you tip for success in the future? This guy Tom Krell who makes music under the name How To Dress Well. His voice is incredible, really special, I think his new album is going to be great. Finally, what do you think are the three best albums ever made? Three life-changing albums for me are Last Exit by Junior Boys, Discovery by Daft Punk and Sunflower by The Beach Boys. Prizes’ latest single Liberia is available now on Double Denim Records. Turn to page 64 to find out what tracks Prizes chose for Zeitgeist’s September Playlist, or go online to see the band perform two songs exclusively for zeitgeistman.com.

This new London-based band are tipped for big things in 2010. Front-man Hari Ashurst talks to Zeitgeist about name changes, legal issues and how the Internet is affecting the music industry

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Martyn Bal wearing a shirt from his own collection

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THE FACE BEHIND THE FASHION Designer Martyn Bal talks exclusively to Zeitgeist about music, menswear and masculinity, revealing the profound concepts behind his monochromatic creations u

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ou may not have heard of fashion designer Martyn playing in punk bands and attending classes, the Bal, but it is safe to say you will have probably seen talented teenager became the apprentice of prominent his clothing. As an introverted character, the young Belgian designer Dirk Bikkembergs, getting his first taste man has always remained outside of the fashion industry for fashion at one of Europe’s biggest brands. limelight. Things are about to change however, and with In 1998, age 18, Bal moved to London and started a a new role as Design Director at Versace and his own Masters degree in Menswear Design at the esteemed menswear brand growing from strength to strength, it is Royal College of Art. The young student excelled in only a matter of time before his is London and won several awards the name on everyone’s lips, as during his time at university, I see black as a well as their clothing labels. including the prize for best For a young man, Bal’s menswear graduate collection. restful emptiness from short career rivals that of many As soon as he left the RCA, which anything could designers’ lifetime work. Within Bal was approach by Christian ten years he has designed Dior, one of the world’s most emerge or disappear for some of fashion’s most illustrious luxury fashion houses. prestigious brands, under the He became assistant to the guidance of the industry’s biggest names. On top of this label’s head designer, Hedi Slimane, and together they he has successfully established his own brand, including reinvented the brand’s men’s division, Dior Homme. footwear and accessories. Their revolutionary designs remain some of the most Born in a small town outside of Rotterdam, Holland, celebrated menswear collections ever made, with their Bal was always interested in fashion. Legend has it skinny aesthetic literally reshaping and redefining men’s that even as a small child he scolded his mother for not fashion. Slimane and Bal spearheaded the slim-fit matching the colours of his outfits perfectly. And between revolution and together they instigated the indie-rock-

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The Martyn Bal Autumn/Winter 2010 collection

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helped me to discover my influences, and to discover and-roll look so prevalent today. Without them, millions myself as a designer.” of men would not be wearing slim fit jeans and it is even This hard work and soul-searching eventually reported that Chanel’s head designer and high fashion culminated in the creation of Bal’s own eponymous label. royalty, Karl Lagerfeld, dropped almost seven stone just The difficult move from huge international brands to to fit into a Dior Homme suit. setting up your own independent line would be a daunting Remaining out of the spotlight, Bal continued to task for anybody and tested Bal’s talent and dedication hone his craft and soon decided to leave Dior. He to the extreme. “It was a big took a promotion and became change and challenge but having Creative Director of Italian label I believe it is your own collection offers you Verri Uomo, then moved on the opportunity to have complete to become Design Consultant important that you dare freedom and creative control over for mega-brand Versace and to work with the dance what you want to do,” he says. then on to Burberry where “The latter is something you rarely he was hired as menswear of transient form find working at any fashion house.” Design Director. This whirlwind It is this newfound freedom that of experience and speedy rise has allowed Bal’s skills to flourish and is helping to make through the fashion ranks is certainly impressive, no his project such a highly praised success. doubt helping to make Bal the exceptional designer With a touch of understated luxury and an obvious he is today. “I have always felt honoured by all these attention to detail, his sharp designs are among the best opportunities,” he says. “My time at high profile fashion in the current menswear market. By playing with fit, cut houses has been very exciting and rewarding. Whether it and proportion, he makes clothes that are edgy and was about image, attention to detail or corporate matters, unique, but always wearable. What shines through u every single experience has been important to me and

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audacity and revolt. Constructivism was about formal Bal, a strong brand identity that is not usually found in experimentations and Modernism was about eliminating designers of his age. the unnecessary to embrace functionality. All of these This identity is what he calls the “Martyn Bal man”, the conceptions play a major role in the way that I design all hypothetical muse the designer is always dressing. “I my collections.” am not necessarily aiming to define the modern man,” Music too, plays a part in his creative process and he he says. “What is important says he uses the “rhythm of to me is to define a certain music as a springboard” for character or personality, his work. Of the relationship which is aligned with my between fashion and music, ideas about men’s fashion.” Bal says: “There is a certain He adds: “Ultimately it is gravitational attraction about the totality of a brand’s between the two since both ideology, the clothes and mediums aim for gratification the person that represents of the senses, for the sake of the clothes all function as aesthetic pleasure and delight elements within a laboratory in colour, sound and form of of artistic exploration.” something.” Maybe this is This deeply considered why so many rock stars enjoy thought process and an wearing his clothes, with the attention to every detail is likes of Erik Hassle spotted in something that is evident his pieces. throughout all of Bal’s As well as designing his work. For instance, one own line, earlier this year of the most distinguishing Bal took the role of Design features of his clothing Director at Versace, where is that it remains almost he now oversees the brand’s exclusively monochromatic, menswear department. He a visually striking feature showed his first, critically that the designer believes acclaimed collection in June highlights several aspects of and his eighties rockabillyhis clothes. “My work is very inspired show was applauded graphic and constructed, by the fashion world, bringing and I feel using lots of colour the designer yet more praise. could compromise this,” he With his own brand explains. “I don’t believe developing into a major colours are unmasculine, but menswear label and this new I like to use black in clothing position at Versace, it seems to make a statement of selfthings are still on the rise for control and mystery.” Rather this young man. But what than simply an aesthetic does the future hold? “It all decision, Bal’s reasoning depends on the opportunity,” goes much deeper, adding: says Bal mysteriously. “For the “I see black as a restful moment I am really happy and emptiness from which excited about this project and anything could emerge my role as Design Director at For this season, Martyn Bal maintained the sharp and or disappear, while it also Versace.” Ever philosophical, sleek aesthetic that his eponymous line has become provides a sense of potential he adds: “It’s an exciting and so well known for. Continuing his tradition of creating and possibilities.” challenging journey, where excellent outerwear pieces, this collection’s key pieces As this shows, one of the new influences take over include fitted macs and superb leather bombers. Great things that makes Bal’s work as circumstances change; attention to detail brings a touch of rugged luxury, with so interesting and individual fashion is impermanent and heavy duty zips and sturdy buttons adding the final touch. is that he draws inspiration influences are as well. I believe from a wide variety of sources and channels them it is important that you dare to work with the dance of directly into the shape, cut and style of his pieces in a transient form and always pay attention to the smallest way that creates something truly unique. detail.” If he continues to follow his own advice, it seems From modern art, gender theories and “aesthetics that the sky is the limit for this talented designer. such as Modernism, Futurism and Constructivism”, Bal To read more from Martyn and to watch a video is inspired by a diverse range of topics. As he explains: presentation of his Autumn/Winter 2010 Martyn Bal “Futurism was about a new sensitiveness; courage, collection go to zeitgeistman.com/martynbal. n

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{BAL’S FASHION LIFE} Bikkembergs A/W 98

As a youngster with a passion for design, Bal gained his first fashion experience with Dirk Bikkembergs back home in Holland. He then moved to London and completed a Masters in Menswear Design at the Royal College of Art.

Dior Homme A/W 02

Bal was quickly snapped up by Christian Dior. He became the assistant to Hedi Slimane and together their radical, rock and roll designs changed the face of menswear forever, with their acclaimed collections making the slim silhouette stylish.

Martyn Bal S/S 09

Martyn quickly progressed up the career ladder, moving on to design at Verri Uomo, Versace and Burberry. But Bal really wanted his own creative freedom and eventually left to set up his own brand, putting his name on the label.

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an exclusive collector’s edition hardback version of Issue One, with extended interviews, extra content and a Subscriber’s Only cover.

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Versace S/S 11

Having proven himself as an outstanding designer, Bal was appointed as Design Director of menswear at mega brand Versace. Bal now juggles this coveted position with his own line, which recently launched a footwear and accessories line.

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Hassle in Bal S/S 10

With each new collection Bal expands creatively. For his A/W 09 range he collaborated with photographer Richard Stow to create stunning imagery to promote his line and for S/S 10 he used musician Erik Hassle as his model.

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Image used above, by Willo Williams Š

Each month Zeitgeist aims to celebrate the very best in new artistic talent by exhibiting the work of promising youngsters who are sure to lead creative culture in the future. In the first of this on-going series, six of the brightest photography stars reveal their best camera work u


Hannah in Fields Jonathan Flanders jonathanflandersphotography.blogspot.com


Leiton Willo Williams willowwilliams.blogspot.com


Bullseye Michelle Williams sheshoots.co.uk


Bare Bones and Summer Meadows J-Jay Johnson flickr.com/jonathanjamesjohnson


‘Symmetry‘ Amy Clarkson flickr.com/flashgordon


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Cut and Paste Publishing In the first in a series looking at the D.I.Y. approach to creativity, Zeitgeist investigates the ‘zine scene’

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he concept of creating your own publication Taking its name from a famous Clarks shoe advert has existed in counter culture for years, with based in the northern city, their zine encompasses people always finding ways to publish their creative writing, poetry and images of the city, often opinions outside of the mainstream press. From the including found objects of unknown origin. Created punks of the 1970s to the sci-fi fans of the 1980s, as a celebration of Preston, Murray explains why they zines have been a form of self-expression and cultural decided to follow the ‘do it yourself’ approach and celebration for decades. But what is so special about create their magazine themselves: “Mainly because a cheaply produced, low quality leaflet? And why, in a it meant we had complete control over the content of world ruled by digital communication, are these ‘do it each publication and we could produce exactly what we wanted. It also meant that yourself’ miniature magazines we did not have to struggle to facing a resurgence? find funding or a publisher.” Zines rose to prominence It is this freedom that alongside the punk movement defines the secret of the in fashion and music during genre’s success around the the seventies. As the mass world. Self-publishing allows media shunned this new craze, zine-makers, or zinesters as youngsters rebelled and took it they are known, to create and upon themselves to distribute distribute whatever they want. their own articles, creating Murray elaborates, saying: fan-zines to celebrate bands “Self-publishing just allows and artists considered too you to get your work out alternative to make it into the there. Being able to include mainstream glossy magazines. exactly what you want without From these origins came the having to please an editor or zines we know today, with the funding body is one of the rebellious, independent ethos best elements”. So from zines still inspiring people to create Preston is my Paris zine covers about rainy northern cities their own magazines, covering to leaflets celebrating the the broadest range of niche most obscure bands in the interests imaginable. Typically, zines come in small-scale circulations, containing world, the magic of self-publishing seems to lie in the clippings from different sources that are glued together, freedom it gives and the endless opportunity to share your vision with the world. photocopied and distributed. Characteristically, zines come as limited editions and Recently, an ever-growing community has gathered around this concept, with hundreds of new zines being although these small circulations are often a necessity produced all around the world as more people become due to lack of funding, other zinesters believe this to inspired to create something of their own. Adam be another factor that makes their creations so special. Murray and Robert Parkinson are two self-publishers Preston is my Paris editor Adam Murray says: “I think who set up their zine, Preston is my Paris, in July 2009. having a very limited print run is something that u

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u makes them appealing. For example, people to donate towards funding creative ideas. After advertising her idea on the site, if you have one of something that is only she received enough money to make several printed 50 times, you get the sense that you more issues. Brock believes that this is how the have something quite unique.” community is sustaining itself: “I offered rewards Some people take this idea to an extreme, and people donated. And you get caught in the producing zines that are literally one-offs. mix. I’ve already donated to two other projects, even Emilia Brock is an American zinester who lives though I’m broke myself.” in New York. Her D.I.Y. publication, Muster, is But how is this approach to publishing standing a mixture of creative writing, art and music that up against the rise of the takes the idea of limited Internet, where blogging sites edition publishing to the and social networking has very extreme. made self-publishing online Brock explains: “Muster a part of every day life? is a zine wherein music For some, this retrograde inspires writing, which then and even nostalgic practice inspires art. I send out a of cutting up and pasting prompt to my writers, a prompt together a publication seems which forces them to listen to far removed from modern music, from which they write a methods of communication, short story. Then I compile the especially when some glossy stories, type them out on my magazines appear to be typewriter and send copies to making a move towards the artists.” Each artist then online focused work, with does as they please with their Ipads and Kindles supposedly copy and returns it, meaning taking over. each copy of Muster is of es copi However, it seems that the completely unique, a one off g Emilia Brock producin iter ewr typ her on ter zine community are actually with its own original artwork. Mus embracing the Internet and, “I want my readers to feel with its help, are expanding special, as special as they their community ever further. make me feel! That is really Online archives are being cheesy, but it’s true,” laughs set up for old zines and Brock. “I wanted everyone to web-stores are allowing know that they’re having a publications to be bought and personal experience with my distributed around the world. zine. I’m not just vying for the Adam Murray, co-creator of most clicks on an Internet link, Preston is my Paris, believes or whatever.” the Internet is actually helping As more and more limited zines to flourish. “If we did not edition zines are created, a keep a blog then we would only strong community is building reach a very small audience up around the genre. Groups with our work,” he says. “The of zinesters meet to share, Internet has allowed us to swap and even sell special reach a global audience that copies, with some publications a simple photocopied zine gaining huge price tags. just would not do. I think that Special zine events take place Extracts from Ne w York zine both analogue and digital around the world, such as the Muster technology has a crucial role London Zine Symposium and to play in D.I.Y. publishing.” the New York Zine Festival So it seems that even as the world becomes more and although each zine focuses upon its own random digitised, the concept of cut and paste publishing topic, this bustling scene is brought together by a is getting stronger. The do it yourself attitude is shared interest in D.I.Y. publishing. inspiring people to create truly interesting work, with It is this community aspect that is keeping the zine the creative freedom allowing people to share their scene alive. Whilst many zines are produced on next passions with the world. So what are you waiting for? to no budget, others find funding from their peers. Get publishing! n Emilia Brock funds her publication, Muster, through D.I.Y. music scene a website called Kickstarter, which encourages Next month: the


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or many years, Liverpool’s music scene has been overshadowed by that of its larger neighbour, Manchester. Over several decades, genre-defining bands such as Joy Division, The Smiths, The Stone Roses and Oasis have all come out of the bigger city, outdoing the Scousers whose reputation rests on four boys called The Beatles. But recently, Merseyside has seen a musical revival, with a real community growing within its many clubs and pubs. Unlike some cities, whose music scenes form around one specific club (like Manchester’s Hacienda) or a certain sound (New York’s indie rock), Liverpool has an amazingly diverse range of credible bands, DJs and promoters who are all contributing to this sense of community, making the city stand out once again. “The scene is pretty friendly and unpretentious here in Liverpool,” says Andrew Hunt, who performs in several of the city’s biggest local bands. “People who put on shows are generally in personal contact with the audience and there is a lot of faith put in

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H T R O N P U Zeitgeist travels to Merseyside to explore a music scene on the rise, with exclusive insights from the movers and shakers making it happen and images provided by two of the city’s best gig photographers

promoters to bring something cool to the city.” Hunt is at the centre of the healthy local music contingent, playing in several popular bands including a.P.A.t.T., Indica Ritual and Outfit. Although Liverpool isn’t producing its own distinct sound, Hunt believes there is a lot of varied talent coming out of the city as kids decide to make their own music, spurring Liverpool’s growth. “There is a good scene of interesting experimental acts starting, which I find appealing,” he says. “Like local boys Barberos and Mother Earth, who are pursuing something more abrasive and visceral with a real live energy to them.” As Hunt notes, what brings the community together is its love of live music and performance, which occurs in numerous locations across the town. “Scenes tend to pivot around venues,” says Liverpool’s leading gig promoter Revo Ziganda. “Eric’s, Planet X, Cream at Nation, Evol at Korova and now the Kazimier. It all depends on the rise and fall of these places,” he says. “They are the nucleus around which everything develops, the places u

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among the local gig-goers, believes there is ideas can gain momentum, kind of like test something else to Liverpool’s resurgence. He says: “There’s also Music Week, Africa tubes for all kinds of different music.” Ziganda is the founder of the city’s biggest Oye, Mathew Street Festival and Sound City, club night, Evol, which for the last five all bringing a sense of the boutique festival years has been leading the area’s music to the city. These events are copying the community, bringing in big name acts whilst blueprints of America’s South by Southwest supporting up-and-coming talent. As a festival but in their own way.” These largeformer DJ and Merseyside legend, Ziganda scale annual festivals add another dimension has seen Liverpool’s array of music venues to the city’s music scene and provide help nurture the city’s musical family, with occasions to celebrate music, drawing in forward thinking, experimental bars and audiences from around the country with their eclectic mix of bands, whilst giving locals the nightclubs giving the community a home. Places like Korova, a bar that was set up opportunity to perform. It is also hard not to mention 2008, when five years ago by local band Ladytron, acted as the first home of interesting music in the the city was made European Capital of city. James Rand, one of Liverpool’s Culture and thousands of tourists, and brightest young DJ’s agrees with this government money, poured into the north. venue-centric idea. He says: “Korova During this time, Liverpool built its own music was quite a seminal meeting point for stadium, The Echo Arena, a venue finally big me and my mates and it was also the enough to rival Manchester’s MEN and host massive world tours sole reason that and music events. my DJ career Pop music shouldn’t For some, this was started in the be skipping the city far removed from the first place, so it which has had more D.I.Y. approach in definitely has played a role number one songs than the sweaty pubs and in the growth anywhere in the world clubs at the centre of Liverpool’s scene. of the scene.” However, it is not just the venues However, journalist Peter Guy believes the that are drawing the community Echo Arena was long overdue. “Whether together. As well as Revo or not you are into pop music on a massive Ziganda’s Evol, there are other scale, Liverpool deserved a fine arena club nights such as Chibuku, and I think we got it,” he says. “Pop music Samizdat and Meshuggy that shouldn’t be skipping the city which has had are all bringing something more number one songs than anywhere in different to the scene. As the world!” In many ways, this is what makes Ziganda himself says, it is the promoters organising Liverpool’s music community so special. Its these nights who are willing broad ranging diversity means that the city to take a risk that are really really is buzzing with music, from the local supporting the scene. He indie bands in basement clubs, the techno adds: “These are the club raves in abandoned warehouses or pop nights that are forward stars in the massive arena, Liverpool has it thinking and are prepared all to offer. The fact that the diversity exists to risk their own cash on and interweaves is what is giving Liverpool bringing new and fresh stuff its strength. Finally, Liverpool is getting out of its rut as to the city, without them it’s a city defined by a band it produced over five all run of the mill.” But there is more that decades ago. Whilst some people will never sets the city apart. Peter let the city forget The Beatles, it is safe to Guy, local music journalist stay that at this moment in time, something and well-known face special is happening within Liverpool. As the community grows and bigger acts visit the city, more and more local talent is coming to the fore and this is what is most promising. As DJ James Rand says: “The Beatles are one of the most internationally successful groups of all time so of course people are going to link Liverpool with them. That is definitely not a bad thing but I always think it is worth reminding some people that a few other things have happened here in the last 50 years.” ZEITGEIsTMAN.COM


What do the insiders have to say about Liverpool? THE PROMOTER: Revo Ziganda is Liverpool’s biggest music promotor and founder of the city’s seminal Evol club night, which has hosted heavy weight acts such as The XX, Bloc Party, Arctic Monkeys, CSS and 2manyDJs, to name a few. Who do you think are the best musicians to come out of Liverpool? The Beatles, Echo and the Bunnymen, Ladytron. What up-and-coming musicians from the city do you tip for success in the future? Sound of Guns, Outfit, Sun Drums. What is the best gig you’ve ever organised in the city? 2manyDJs at the Evol fifth birthday, Vitalic live a couple of years ago or The XX at the Kazimier earlier this year, just before they went huge. But there’s loads of good ones from the last seven years. Do you think there is anything special about Liverpool that you don’t get in other cities? I think Liverpool has a unique atmosphere and if the act cuts the mustard, a very welcoming and embracing audience.

THE DJ: James Rand is one of the city’s best DJs. He regularly controls the decks at the cities most popular club nights Evol and Chibuku, sharing the stage with the likes of Erol Alkan, Boys Noize and The Prodigy. Who are your favourite musicians to come out of Liverpool? The Beatles, Frankie Goes To Hollywood and The Coral. What bands and DJs do you think are going to make it big in the future? Shadow Cabinet, Lewis Boardman and DJ Mele. What is the best gig you’ve ever played in the city? Probably the first Chibuku I ever played alongside Revo warming up for Boys Noize. That or the 2manyDJs/Evol fifth birthday show at the O2 Academy. Both of them were very special. Do you think there is anything special about Liverpool that you don’t get in other cities? Scouse cab drivers’ stories on the way home.

THE MUSIC JOURNALIST: Peter Guy is a music writer who reviews all manner of gigs and club nights for the city’s /NOIsEUPNORTH

biggest newspapers, The Echo and The Daily Post and runs a Liverpool music blog called Get in to This (peterguy. merseyblogs.co.uk). Who do you think are the best musicians to come out of Liverpool? Reg Gibbons, Terry Owen and Paul McCartney. What up-and-coming Liverpool bands do you tip for success in the future? Mugstar, Red Suns and Fly With Vampires

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Do you think there is anything special about Liverpool that you don’t get in other cities? The no-nonsense attitude.

THE MUSICIAN: Andrew Hunt is one of the communities most prolific and talented musicians. He plays in various bands including the avant garde a.P,A.t.T., electro kings Indica Ritual and upcoming stars Outfit. Who do you think are the best musicians to come out of Merseyside? Carcass, The Laze and The Beatles.

p Wavves by Michelle Roberts

Any new bands you tip for success in the future? Sun Drums, Mother Earth and Bad Meds. What would you say is the best gig you have ever played in the north? Probably Deerhoof at the Kazimier. My band Indica Ritual played with them and it was insane. Deerhoof are big favourites of mine, they play the most expressive and dynamic rock and roll. They make guitar music that takes in stuff like Stravinksy as much as the Beatles, and was so fun to watch. To download a free playlist with all the music mentioned in this piece, visit zeitgeistman.com /noiseupnorth. n

p Indica Ritual by Michelle Roberts

p Crowd at Fucked Up by Sonny Me. Photography provided by Liverpool photographers Sonny Me (sonnyme.com) and Michelle Roberts (sheshoots.co.uk)


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elayo Diaz Zapico is a young man with many talents. He is an influential fashion blogger whose website, katelovesme.net, has had more than two million visitors. He is a designer whose clothes have been worn by celebrities including Pharrell Williams, Rihanna and Henry Holland. He is also a trendsetter whose unique personal style has seen him featured in numerous fashion titles, including GQ, Vogue and i-D. All this and he still hasn’t graduated from university. Originally from Oviedo, in northern Spain, the stylish 23-year-old moved to London five years ago to study Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art. Once settled, he set up his website as a way of keeping in contact with friends back home. Detailing his impeccable dress-sense as well as his informed fashion opinions, Pelayo’s blog soon caught the attention of the masses, with each post attracting hundreds of new fans. And now, having launched a range of limited edition t-shirts, this young designer is certainly a name to remember for the future. He talks to Zeitgeist about blogging, personal style and how he and his young contemporaries are changing the fashion industry, for the better. How would you describe your blog? Why did you set it up in the first place? My website is a mixture of the things I like and do; like the parties I go to, the people I meet along the way and all the things that inspire me to be different. I started it in March 2007 so all my friends back home in Spain could see what I was up to. When did you move to England? Why did you choose London? I moved to London in November 2005 after a few months of living in Barcelona. I always wanted to come here, study where I study and live in a city where every day you can meet new people and learn new things. London is a city where there is plenty of space for everyone, for everything, and I like getting lost in it. Since its creation, katelovesme.net has had over 2 million visitors, why do you think it is so popular? I guess people keep coming back because I am myself, as in a real person and not some celebrity. Even if people don’t like it, they keep coming back anyway! 10 Magazine recently named you one of the most influential bloggers in the world. Do you ever feel that having a popular blog is a big responsibility? It is just something I do for myself, not for other people. But yes, sometimes I do feel a bit of a responsibility because now so many young people read it I feel like I need to inspire them to be themselves. I wish I had had a blog like mine to check every now and then when I was 15 and living in boring Spain. Do you think it is a good thing that young bloggers like Bryan (bryanboy.com), Tavi

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(thestylerookie.com) and yourself have been welcomed into the world of fashion, with people respecting your opinions? Why not? We give a touch of colour, fresh air! We are saving fashion in a way. That is what Anna Dello Russo [Editor-atlarge of Vogue Japan] said to me once when we sat together front row at the last Dsquared2 catwalk show. Would you say that the Internet and blogging in particular has made the world of fashion more accessible? Yes, definitely. But the Internet has made the world of porn more accessible too! I think blogging has actually affected the way people see fashion because they now see it on real people and not just on amazing looking models with their hair and makeup done. So what influence do you think you and other bloggers are having? Do you think it is a good thing that people can freely publish their opinions online? Yes, it’s a great thing. Bloggers tell the truth. We write things as we see them and upload our own pictures, our own point of view. It is like an online reality magazine sometimes. We now set the trends and say what fashion shows have been good and which ones have been rubbish. And the best thing is that we do it as soon as we see the clothes walking down the catwalk, from our front row seats or even backstage. Are you a blog reader? What are your favourite sites? I like Jak and Jil (jakandjil.com), his pictures are amazing. Also Gala Gonzalez (amlul.com) and Yvan Rodic’s blogs (facehunter.blogspot.com), as well as The Sartorialist (thesartorialist.com). As a champion of the Internet, do you believe that blogs and online magazines will take over printed magazines? No I don’t think so. Print publications will always be there. I need to physically touch a picture, cut it out, write on it. Although you are still studying you are already selling some limited edition clothing, including the famous Pin Cross shirt. How did this come about? The reason I made that t-shirt was because I was going to New York Fashion week the following day and I wanted to wear something that no one else had. Then the cross t-shirt obsession just happened. The t-shirt’s crucifix design has a very religious overtone but the safety pins give it a punk edge. What was the idea behind it? I think religion has played with people for so long that it is about time we play a bit with their symbols. You were asked to create a similar design to be worn by the singer Rihanna in her latest music video, ‘Hard’. How did this come about? I got commissioned to do it by her stylists. They gave me the brief, I showed them a u

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u few different designs and they took their pick. It ended up being an organza mini-dress with all different sizes of safety pins and suspenders. How did it feel to see your design worn by someone so famous in a music video shown across the world? Well I thought, maybe I am doing things right! The best was having all my friends and family on the phone telling me how proud they were. I didn’t think it was such a big thing but then again not everyone dresses a famous singer when they are 23-years-old. Who else owns your pieces? Rapper Pharrell Williams has a special black version with gold safety pins. The model Daisy Lowe, fashion designers David Delfin and Henry Holland have one each, Spanish actress Miranda Makaroff and about 100 other people. Where can people get their own Prince Pelayo design? They sell for €250 in Gallery Madrid, a really cool shop in Spain. I do limited editions for them with different kinds of pins and colours. I also take personal orders through email, [via katelovesme@gmail.com]. As well as dressing others, you are well known for your excellent personal style. How would you describe the way you dress? I guess it is a mixture of my favourite movies and people; they all get translated into clothes. Can you share your three main rules for personal style? Big hair, black with denim and boots. Who or what inspires the way you dress? My father, he’s got the coolest style ever, I swear! Tony Ward, Joe Dallesandro and James Dean. The film Memento really inspired me and

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Donnie Darko is a great movie too. Music-wise I love Moby, Air, Chemical Brothers and the Pet Shop Boys. What designers or movements in fashion most inspire you? London’s Punks are the most inspirational people to date for me. In terms of designers, I admire many people, especially those that haven’t had it easy. I have always found Alexander McQueen amazing and intriguing, he was the one that inspired me to try and get into Saint Martins University in London. Some people think it is very open of you to share your life with strangers over the Internet. Where do you draw the line? I only share what I want people to know and I do not write about everything. I would never write about my private relationships, family stuff or work. I have had people writing horrible things about me in comments, but I don’t have any problems with that. You often sign off your posts by writing the saying “Be the most authentic person you can be”. What does this mean to you? It’s just something I like telling myself. It’s the advice I always give to people when they ask me how to get the things they want. And finally, do you think you will blog forever? Never say never or forever.

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MUsIC

reVIEWs:

The highlights from this month’s cultural releases

MUsIC: MANCHEsTER’s HURTs REVEAL FIRsT ALBUM HAPPINEss AHEAD OF FULL UK TOUR Following the success of their first two singles, Manchester synthpop duo Hurts release their much hyped debut album, Happiness, this month. With an undeniably eighties sound, you could be mistaken for thinking this twosome are just another retro revival band, but they bring something slightly different to the table. Made up of best friends Theo Hutchcraft on vocals and silent synth player Adam Anderson, they create hypnotic, electronic pop songs that writhe with an underlying energy; stripped down tracks that seem to build to a climax that is sadly never

really achieved. Singles Wonderful Life and Better Than Love are highlights of the album, but what makes the rest of the songs worth a listen is that each is undeniably an excellent pop song, they just don’t seem to progress anywhere. The proof of Hurts’ talent however, will be whether their sound can convert to a live arena as they tour the country this winter. Happiness is out on September 6. Hurts will also be touring the country from October 2. Visit zeitgeistman.com/ hurts for details on Hurts’ tour dates. n

p An exclusive look at Hurts’ album art work

q Interpol suited and booted

MUsIC: INTERPOL ARE BACK WITH FOURTH ALBUM AND neW DIRECTION Mysterious New Yorkers Interpol return this month with their long awaited fourth album. The self-titled follow up to 2007’s hit Our Love to Admire sees the suave foursome’s trademark dark and brooding sound inflected with a more serene, orchestral feel. As well as The Strokes and The Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Interpol were one of the bands at the forefront of the New York City indie scene that exploded at the start of the decade, influenced by post-punk and new wave groups from the late eighties. The band’s sound has always remained recognisable; dark but infectious with witty lyrics provided

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by enigmatic front man Paul Banks. And as expected, one half of this new offering reverberates with their typically moody sound, full of throbbing bass and droning choruses. But the second half sees Interpol’s sound progress with the introduction of a more instrumental feel, with sweeping keyboards and big, ambient waves of noise. Sinister songs such as The Undoing and first single Lights flow into grander, lighter tunes like the brilliant Success. Interpol is certainly a departure

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for the band that, although rather different, is guaranteed to satisfy fans old and new. Interpol’s latest album Interpol is released on September 13. The band will be touring the UK from November 24. Visit zeitgeistman. com for full gig listings and to watch the video for first single Lights, directed by Charlie White. n

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FILM FILM: ELECTRO sTARs MAKE THEIR BIG sCREEN DEBUTs IN NEW COMEDY IVORY TOWER

p Film poster featuring Gonzales and Tiga

If you are a follower of electro music, you may notice a few familiar faces in the Canadian comedy film Ivory Tower, released this month. In the directional debut from one half of hip-hop outfit Puppetmastaz, Adam Traynor, comes a simply hilarious yet touching story of chess board-based sibling rivalry and a bitter love triangle. Famous pianist, producer, rapper and songwriter Chilly Gonzales takes the lead in his first screen role, alongside other electro stars Tiga and feisty singer Peaches. Gonzales’ excellent new album, which was produced by superstar DJ Boy’s Noize and is also named

q Anouk Aimee as Lola

Ivory Tower, is the soundtrack to the movie and brings some special piano magic to the story. Described by Gonzales as an ‘existential sports comedy’, the film charts the battle between chess prodigies Hershell Graves (played by Gonzales) and his younger brother Thadeus (played by Tiga). Not only is this a war of board game tactics, but the introduction of Marsha Thirteen (Peaches) brings a tumultuous love interest into the mix. Witty and irreverent with an excellent, upbeat soundtrack, Ivory Tower is thoroughly entertaining, with the music stars delivering hilarious one-liners throughout, equally satisfying fans of electro the superstars and the comedy genre. Ivory Tower is showing in selected cinemas throughout September. Chilly Gonzales’ album, also called Ivory Tower, is out now. n

FILM ARCHIVE: DEMY’s 1961 CLAssIC LOLA REsTORED FOR DVD RELEAse This month sees French director Jacques Demy’s cinematic debut, Lola, finally make it on to DVD. Starring the iconic Anouk Aimee in the title role of Lola, the film is a sultry, multi-layered love story set in the picturesque seaside town of Nantes, France. Originally released in 1961, Lola is a striking though often overlooked classic from the Nouvelle Vague cinema movement, which follows the /REVIEWs

trials and tribulations of a gorgeously attractive yet lovelorn cabaret singer and her confusing love triangle. Left behind by her sailor lover Michael, played by Jacques Hadren, a brokenhearted Lola awaits his return. Struggling to make ends meet and avoid the two men vying for her affections, she gets swept away in a story of chance encounters, coincidences and twists of fate. Beautifully shot and wonderfully

acted, Demy’s first foray into cinema can now return to the screen following an immaculate remastering restoration, supervised by his widow, the award-winning French director Agnes Varda. Will true love prevail? Will Lola and Michael ever meet again and will they get their happy ending? Only time will tell. Lola is released on DVD on September 6. n TURN OVER FOR MORE REVIEWs u

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ART AND BOOKs

BOOKs: GUILLERMO DEL TORO RETURNs WITH sECOND VAMPIRE nOVEL From the king of creepy cinema comes The Fall, the second novel in the chilling vampire apocalypse Strain trilogy. Mexican director Guillermo del Toro, the man behind films such as the 2006 hit Pans Labyrinth and the Hell Boy franchise, branched out into books in 2009 with the first in a three book saga, co-written with American author Chuck Hogan. The Fall kicks off where the earlier best-selling story finished, with the deadly vampiric plague that was infecting New York now spreading violently around the rest of the world. As the war between the living and the dead kicks off, a team of haphazard

wannabe heroes attempt to save the human race. It may be a typical story of bloodsucking monsters versus every-day good guys, but what makes The Fall different is the thrilling action and excitement that races through each page. The influence of Del Toro is felt throughout, with gruesome, filmlike description bringing the story to life. Unlike the many romantic vampnovels around today, this action packed series packs a real punch; a gripping and exciting read that brings true horror to the genre. With a fast paced, twisting narrative that drives you to read faster and faster, the second novel

fleshes out characters and creates an unsettling sense of impending doom all the way to the ultimate cliffhanger. Definitely worth a read but will you be able to wait until next year for the third instalment to find out exactly what happens? Second novel The Fall by Del Toro and Hogan is published by William Morrow and is released on September 21. n p Hardback cover of The Fall

q Lazano-Hemmer’s Pulse Room

ART: ELECTRONIC ARTIsT BRINGs INTERACTIVE LIGHT sHOW TO UK Pioneering digital artist Rafael Lozano-Hemmer opens his new inter-active electronic art show, Recorders, at the Manchester Art Gallery this month. The innovative works featured in the artist’s first British solo show utilise innovative digital technologies to actually see, hear and interact with the gallery’s visitors, recording and replaying spectators’ movements, voices and even heartbeats as part 62

of the work. Among the new exhibition’s seven pieces will be the world premier of two works specially commissioned by the Manchester gallery, Please Empty Your Pockets and huge light installation People on People. Another large-scale work, Pulse Room, features over 100 suspended light bulbs that are programmed to flash to the exact rhythm of participants’ heartbeat.

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As always, Lozano-Hemmer’s work combines simplicity and interactivity with an awe-inspiring sense of spectacle and playfulness. Never taking itself too seriously, his installations give audiences a glimpse at the art of the future. Go along and become part of the show. Recorders is free to the public and runs from September 18 until the end of the year. Visit zeitgeistman. com/art for all the details. n ZEITGEIsTMAN.COM


THE PUBLIC TO MARK 40 YEARs sINCE DEATH An exhibition opens this month to mark the 40th anniversary of music legend Jimi Hendrix’s death, which will include exclusive access into his former London home. As well as providing a tour of the flat Hendrix shared with his English girlfriend Kathy Etchingham, the exhibition will feature some neverbefore seen personal items, videos and newly discovered music clips. Hendrix in Britain will explore the American musician’s life in the country and his enduring influence upon rock music around the world. There will also be a series of events that run alongside

the presentation, including guitar workshops for those who want to learn how to emulate the star’s distinctive playing style. Fans wanting to get a much more personal look into Hendrix’s life on English shore’s will be able to spend time in the top floor flat where he lived whilst performing in this country, getting up-close to many of his belongings, including several of his iconic performance outfits. The famous guitarist died suddenly on September 18 1970 from a suspected overdose. His unique musical style and guitar playing pioneered the deliberate use of amplifier ‘feedback’ which has since been adopted into rock music around the world. The exhibition is held at Handel House Museum, London until November 7. n

EXHIBITIONs AND EVENTs

EXHIBITION: HENDRIX’s HOME OPENED TO

p Jimi Hendrix in his London flat

q Actors and acrobats from the Vesturport theatre

THEATRE: GOETHE’s FAUst FOR 2010 WITH sOUNDTRACK BY BAD sEEDs FRONT MAN

READ MORE ONLINE /REVIEWs

Moustachioed legend Nick Cave, of post punk band Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds, lends his musical talents to a lively adaptation of Goethe’s iconic 1806 play Faust this month. The thrilling tale of a man who sells his soul to the devil will be revitalised by popular Icelandic theatre company Vesturport, who bring a modern twist to the story, including impressive acrobatics and breath-taking aerial displays high above the audience. Fans hoping to catch a glimpse of the aging rocker will be disappointed, but having written an original soundtrack that ranges from slow ballads to heavy glam rock, Cave’s musical influence will most certainly

be felt throughout the performance. Since taking a well-earned break from the band, the Bad Seeds’ front man has provided critically acclaimed soundtracks for several theatrical performances, including Buchner’s Woyzeck and Kafka’s Metamorphosis, and this latest composition promises to be just as special. Running from September 25 to October 30 at London’s Young Vic Theatre, Faust 2010 is sure to be an exciting re-imagining of Goethe’s timeless German play, with an equally excellent soundtrack provided by a music legend. The only worry is audience members’ stiff necks, as much of the action takes place high in the air. n

VIsIT ZEITGEIsTMAN.COM FOR MORE REVIEWs

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A-ZEITgEIsT Who, What, Where and When - The September Lists

THIs MONTH’s CATCH IT WHILE YOU CAN During September, Zeitgeist recommends visiting Cineroleum; a quirky pop-up cinema constructed on the site of a derelict petrol station that is showing some of cinema’s best love films. Built by a collective of young artists, designers and architects who are interested in the creative re-use of old urban spaces, this temporary construction aims to celebrate off-beat cinema in a

community environment, reminiscent of the drive-ins of the 1950s. Each night a huge curtain is pulled around the station forecourt as the screen and seats are set up. Shows include classics such as Alphaville, Rebel Without a Cause and Night of the Living Dead. Tickets are £5 and you are advised to book well in advance. Visit zeitgeistman. com/cineroleum for details.

WORLD CINEMA CLUB

This month’s movie curator is Alison Smith, a Film Studies lecturer and widely published critic and cinema academic. She recommends her all-time favourite films for your viewing pleasure. l La Passion de Jeanne d’Arc (Dreyer, 1929, France). “The cinematic equivalent of a spiritual experience” l The Limits of Control (Jarmusch,

2009, US) “One of the most unusual and intriguing films to appear last year, it tells the bare bones of a story and suggests a world of possibilities. Enigmatic to the end, be warned.” l Pierrot le fou (Godard, 1965, France)

“Full of the cinematic enthusiasm of the Nouvelle Vague and all Godard’s love, and distrust, for the romance of popular culture.” l Uccellacci e uccellini (Hawks and

Sparrows) (Pasolini, 1966, Italy) “A moonstruck, world-weary, surreal, funny, angry, crazy, poetic, unforgettable road movie to nowhere… With birds.” l La Reine Margot (Chéreau, 1994,

France) “A costume drama but no heritage-film, it’s dark, disturbing and very compelling.”

CONTRIBUTOR’s PLAYLIsT

Prizes’ front-man Hari Ashurst (page 31) compiles this month’s Zeitgeist playlist, picking the very best tracks to welcome in the rainy days of autumn and winter. l Stina Nordenstam - World is Saved

l Air France - No Excuses

“You can hear the leaves falling from Stina’s voice on this icy song. It’s unrelentingly sad but frames the turning seasons nicely.” l How To Dress Well - Decisions “I’m going to be listening to this when it starts to get dark.” l Elliott Smith - Between The Bars “Why not?” l Memoryhouse - Lately “This is made for early evenings.” l Destroyer - Painter in Your Pocket “What is there better to do in the cold than listen to wordy eight minute songs?”

“I listen to this a lot in autumn. Not sure why but something about it reminds me of the nights drawing in.” l Fleetwood Mac - Sara “My favourite song ever, the vocals swirl like gathering rain clouds.” l Teengirl Fantasy - In The Rain “The title speaks for itself.” l Animal Collective - Banshee Beat “Subtle, like all the best vices.” l Oberhofer - Away FRM U “This guy is going to be a star. Make sure you give him a listen soon.”

Visit zeitgeistman.com/playlist to download the September Playlist free of charge direct to your computer and turn to page 31 to read Prizes’ full interview.

ZEITGEIsT MUsICAL TOUR

Keep an eye on zeitgeistman.com for exclusive details of the Zeitgeist Tour, which will see your favourite magazine host exclusive club nights around the country, with live music from three top secret acts. Announcements will be made from September 10.

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l Dogville (Lars von Trier, 2003, Denmark/

US) “Von Trier’s provocations may not be to all tastes, but for this devastatingly intelligent film alone he should stand out among contemporary directors.” l 35 Rhums (Denis, 2008, France) “A tender, intense film about everyday lives, the sort of work at which Claire Denis excels.” l Chelovek s-Kino-apparatom (Man with a Movie Camera) (Dziga-Vertov, 1929, USSR) “Still one of the most dynamic and self-aware documentaries ever made, the culmination of silent film’s love-affair with the city.” l The Time that Remains (Suleiman, 2009, Palestine) “Combines the great absurdity of Palestinian history with the small absurdities of everyday life, less surreal but perhaps more human than 2002’s ‘Divine Intervention’.”

Turn to page 22 to read Alison Smith’s comments about the re-release of Fritz Lang’s classic 1927 film Metropolis.

ZEITGEIsTMAN.COM/A-Z


IssUE TWO

OCTOBER 1 2010 ARt FAsHION CULTURE - PAsT PREsENT FUTURE

ZEITGEIsTMAN.COM

FEATURING ACTOR AND ARTIst JOEsPH GORDON LEVITT

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FRANK sWAIN

Tell me about Science Punk (sciencepunk.com), what is it all about? Science Punk is a website I created to showcase exciting bits of science. It started out as a paper zine but it was quite a lot of effort, moving things online in 2005 meant I could reach a lot more people.

Unlike a typical science blog, your website attracts many people with limited scientific knowledge. Why do you think so many people find it interesting? The aim of Science Punk has always been to present the most exciting bits of science in a way that didn’t need a degree to understand. I think it is important to retain that sense of wonder about the world that we feel as humans, and combine it with a little explanation to help people make sense of it.

might pass a zombie in the street and not even know it! What are you working on at the moment other than your book? I run off a quick magazine article now and then to keep the money coming in, and I have a radio documentary in the works, but my focus is very much on the book. You also work on television shows. Tell me about your most recent programme. Around Christmas I managed to convince some producers to film this crazy idea, where I would put myself in very dangerous situations and survive using clever science. The Bravo network heard about it and it was made as Human Guinea Pig, although with rugby star Gavin Henson getting electrocuted instead of me.

THE sCIENCE PUNK

You tend to focus upon the weird and Was there anything wonderful side of you wanted to science. So what is In the first interview revealing details of his new do on the show the strangest thing you’ve ever come book, the blogger talks exclusively to Zeitgeist about that you weren’t allowed to? We across? I only get to pick one thing?! I am his obsessions with zombies, dynamite and cleaning really wanted to blow someone up with going to have to go with the Pistol Shrimp, which can shoot documents and scientific papers that dynamite, as the actor Dennis Hopper I’ve begged, borrowed and stolen from famously did to himself. But it turns out fireballs underwater. It’s actually true! friends with journal access. My army of that it is actually really, really dangerous! You also write quite a lot about Twitter followers are the greatest team of pseudoscience. What exactly is this? researchers I could ask for, they find me Regardless of budgets or any other restraints, what would your ideal Pseudoscience simply means ‘false so much stuff. project be? Any thing that would involve science’; it’s a term for ideas that are made to look like they are scientific when Without giving too much of the book sending me to lots of distant, exotic in fact they are not. For a lay person, away, what are some of the most locations. Preferably with Konnie Huq as it can be very difficult to distinguish interesting things you’ve discovered my co-star. between the two, and very easy to be so far? It’s hard to know what is most ripped off. That is something I don’t like interesting, as you tend to forget what Other than science writing, what the general public know and don’t know. would we find you doing in your spare to see happen. There was a guy in Arizona who tried to time? I have gotten quite obsessive You are in the process of writing bring his wife back from the dead a few about cleaning. It is the only exercise I get, with the benefit that my flat looks your first book, Zombology: the New years ago. That was pretty weird. lovely afterward. Science of Zombies, Reanimation and Mind Control. What is it all about and So do you think the creation of how did you come up with the idea? zombies is a real possibility? It What other blogs do you read? The I’ve always been fascinated with zombies, depends what you mean by zombies. only site I read is Save Your Breath for and I wanted to find out how far science We’re getting quite good at putting Running Ponies, which is informative and could go to support them. Could I raise people into suspended animation – with hilarious. the dead if I wanted? Can a disease turn no heartbeat or breathing – and bringing people into bloodthirsty maniacs? The them back OK. And in this country alone, Zombology: the New Science of thousands of people are infected with Zombies, Reanimation and Mind answers seem to be yes. a parasite that changes their behaviour Control is published by One World What methods of research are you without them realising it. So I guess you Publications and will be released later in the year. Read the rest of using? Almost all my research comes from books I’ve bought, “Could I raise the dead if I wanted? Can Frank’s interview online at interviews with experts, historical a disease turn people into bloodthirsty zeitgeistman.com.

maniacs? The answers seem to be yes” 66

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First came Adam... then came Eve...

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