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In the spotlight with McIntyres The Collections featuring Errol Douglas How to quench thirsty hair


Is your hair thirsty, dry, brittle and lacking lustre? Fear not for in this issue we give you some handy tips on how to banish dry hair and get it back to its beautiful smooth self. More often than not dry hair is the result of our own doing – styling habits, hair colour and heat all result in the upset of our hair’s natural balance. On page 20 we give you some top tips to help combat dry and damaged hair. Our in the spotlight feature shines on McIntyres Salons, Dundee’s largest independent hairdressing salon group and winners of numerous awards and accolades. Kay and her team have a reputation for delivering the best haircuts, colours and restyles which is all down to the emphasis McIntyre’s puts on training and development as well as the creative and nurturing environment of the salons. And finally we dedicate this month’s Collections to Errol Douglas who was awarded his MBE for education and services to the hairdressing industry, and is widely considered to be one of the most influential hairdressers in the world. His gorgeous photographic collections are ones not to be missed! Enjoy!

Jodie Withers Editor Hair: Kevin Miller @ Millers, Bishops Stortford Photography: John Rawson @

The Collecti ons 

In The



CONTENTS 4 The Collections Errol Douglas 16 In The Spotlight Luxury hairdressing services, customer care and a commitment to first-class training, the McIntyres name has become synonymous with hairdressing success 20 Quench Your Thirst Check out our top tips to help combat dry, brittle hair 26 Profiles See the latest salons featured in Hairstyles Only

Hair: Errol Douglas @ Errol Douglas, London. Photography: David Mannah

32 Hair Doctor Our experts advise on your latest hair dilemmas 42 News The latest news and events from some of our Good Salon Guide salons


Your Thirst


The Collecti ons

Hair: Errol Douglas of Errol Douglas, Knightsbridge. Photography: Jack Eames


Errol Douglas Errol Douglas was awarded his MBE for education and services to the hairdressing industry - widely considered to be one of the most influential hairdressers in the world, Errol’s role as a Global Ambassador for L’Oreal and Matrix has resulted in a strong reputation both in the UK and abroad. The Errol Douglas salon in Belgravia, London is accredited with International Technical Excellence. The highly skilled team cater for every hair type at the very highest level of technical and artistic ability. Clients travel from all over the world to the salon which enjoys a loyal following and an unquestioned reputation.

18 Motcomb Street Belgravia Village Knightsbridge London SW1X 8LB



Hair: Errol Douglas @ Errol Douglas, London Photography: David Mannah


Hair: Errol Douglas at Errol Douglas, Knightsbridge Photography: Andrew O’Toole




Hair: Errol Douglas at Errol Douglas, Knightsbridge. Photography: Andrew O’Toole




Hair: Errol Douglas of Errol Douglas, Knightsbridge. Photography: Jack Eames




Hair: Errol Douglas of Errol Douglas, Knightsbridge. Photography: Jack Eames



16 Hair: Kay McIntyre of McIntyres, Dundee. Photography: Jenny Hands

In The


mcIntyres SALONS

DUNDEE • SCOTLAND McIntyres Salons is Dundee’s largest independent hairdressing salon group and are located in Tayside in the heart of Scotland. With an emphasis on luxury hairdressing services, customer care and a commitment to first-class training, the McIntyres name has become synonymous with hairdressing success. Founder and Creative Director, Kay McIntyre, was invited to join the British Hairdressing Award’s Hall of Fame after winning the title of Scottish Hairdresser of the Year three times, confirming her status as one of the UK’s leading hairdressers. She is also an Education Ambassador for Nioxin and a much called-upon judge and training mentor within the hairdressing industry. Kay and her team have a reputation for delivering the best haircuts, colours and restyles you’ll ever experience, and as Kay will tell you herself this is all down to the emphasis McIntyre’s puts on training and development as well as the creative and nurturing environment of the salons. Upon visiting McIntyres you’ll find each of the contemporary spaces have their own unique personality and atmosphere. The flagship city centre salon, which overlooks Dundee’s waterfront, is home to a spacious colour lounge, hair clinic and the McIntyres Training Academy, whilst the original boutique salon close to Dundee’s University offers a neighbourhood atmosphere and is a favourite with many of the city’s artists and designers. Always in step with fashion, McIntyres regularly updates their hair menu to ensure clients have access to the latest techniques, services and products. McIntyres are stockists of some the best selling haircare brands such as Shu Uemura Art of Hair, GHD, Nioxin, Sebastian, Moroccanoil and many more and can easily be purchased through McIntyres online store 50 Union Street, Dundee, Tayside, Scotland DD1 4BE T: 01382 202 030 18



British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame Member Scottish Hairdresser of the Year 2011, 2010 and 2012 Regeneration of Scotland Award British Hairdressing Business Awards Marketing Initiative Twice shortlisted for Salon Design of the Year Commendation British Civic Trust Awards

As featured in Hairstyles Only June/July issue

Hair: Kay McIntyre of McIntyres, Dundee. Photography: Jenny Hands MONTHLY MAGAZINE 19


Hair: Anne Veck. Photography: Stefano Brunesci



Your Thirst There are many reasons for experiencing dry hair, for example your scalp may be dry and therefore not produce enough sebum or it could be part of your genetic make-up, but more often than not, dry hair is the result of our own doing – styling habits, hair colour and heat all result in the upset of our hairs natural balance. Dry hair is usually brittle, straw like, hard to comb and lacks lustre. As the sebum protecting layer is absent it makes hair thin and porous, this leaves the delicate dandruff layer underneath the hair rough and porous. These small imperfections in the layers allow water to escape from the hairs interior therefore drying it out. Using the correct shampoo, conditioner, treatment and styling products will help stop hair from drying out.


Here are our top tips for the treatment of dry hair: • Do not wash your hair every day. Shampooing the hair removes protective lipids so you should only wash when necessary.

• Use a treatment at least once

a week. Hair treatments will provide your hair with moisture and conditioning oils.

• Always use heat protection!

Straighteners and hairdryers are hard on the hair and remove its moisture. Try air-drying your hair as often as possible to minimise heat damage.


Left - Hair: Royston Blythe Artistic Team, Wolverhampton. Photography: David Goldman Right - Hair: Pierre Alexandre and the Pierre Alexandre Artistic Team. Photography: Rory Lewis



• Wash your hair using moderately warm

water and not excessively hot - hot water strips your hair of its natural substances.

• Alcohol found in many styling products can cause hair to dry out so check the ingredients and opt for alcohol free hairsprays, gels and foams.

• Always make sure your brushes and

combs are in good working order. Any damaged tools can cause breakage to the hair and its protective layers disturbing its natural smooth surface.

• After washing your hair comb

through gently using a large wide tooth comb. Damp hair is especially prone to damage.


Left - Hair: Ciente, Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire. Photography: Emma Hughes Photography Right - Hair: Harry Boocock @ The Hair Studio, Leeds. Photography: Jim Crone




Hair: Kay McIntyre of McIntyres, Dundee. Photography: Jenny Hands

PROFILES See the latest salon profiles in June / July’s Hairstyles Only

McIntyres, Dundee (see page 16) HOB, London LAFHAB, West Yorkshire Afrotherapy, London John Olivers, Norfolk


SOUTHGATE • LONDON Frustrated with the same old style? Tired of your hairdresser not listening to what YOU want? Why not keep your tresses on-trend and indulge in a complimentary consultation with award-winning hairdressing group, HOB Salons. With a salon based in the heart of Southgate, unwind and enjoy the very best in British hairdressing. One of 24 branches in the award-winning HOB Salons group, this sumptuous salon is a favourite amongst the local community and beyond. As three time winners of the acclaimed British Hairdresser of the Year, British Colour Technician and Artistic Team of the Year awards, HOB Salons deliver exceptional cuts and gorgeous colours seven days a week. With complimentary consultations, hair-up styling, extensions, beauty services and innovative treatments from around the world such as the Brazilian Nano-Keratin Smoothing Treatment on your doorstep, why would you choose anywhere else? This chic salon, located on Chase Side in Southgate, offers contemporary and stylish interiors, in keeping with the company style where clients can sit back and relax in pure comfort whilst relishing the Five Star salon experience that HOB Salons are renowned for. With a dedicated training facility at the HOB Academy, each member of the HOB Salons team immerses themselves in the finest education ensuring hairdressing excellence is consistent and standards are delivered to ensure each and every client leaves with a look they love. Welcoming you to experience the ultimate in hairdressing, treat yourself by visiting the Best in British Hairdressing at HOB Salons Southgate today!

Hair: Akin Konizi @ HOB Salons Photography: Jenny Hands

42 Chase Side, Southgate, London N14 5PA T: 020 8886 1121

Branches at: Amersham, Baker Street, Barnet, Brent Cross (HOB Man), Bushey, Camden, Elstree, Gerrards Cross, Hatch End, Hertford, Loughton, Leeds, Mill Hill, Northwood, Potters Bar, Radlett, Rickmansworth, Ruislip, Stanmore, Southgate, St. Albans, Temple Fortune, West Hampstead, Whetstone.

GOOD SALON GUIDE 023 9229 5000 (UK) • 1890 946 661 (IRELAND) 28


LEEDS ACADEMY FOR HAIRDRESSING AND BARBERING LEEDS • WEST YORKSHIRE Leeds Academy for Hairdressing and Barbering (LAFHAB) was established in 2011 by husband and wife Beverley and Keith Boseley-Yemm. The academy was opened through a disappointment in the calibre of college trained job applicants. Since then the duo have put a package together that offers high quality training in both theory and practical, making sure students are job ready once the course is complete. LAFHAB’s mission is to be regarded as an outstanding training establishment within the community, offering a wide range of VTCT-accredited awards, certificates, apprenticeships and NVQ Diploma courses, as well as being a leading Habia Member School. Most recently LAFHAB recognised that some people want to achieve qualifications in both hairdressing and barbering, often because they want to work in, or run, a unisex salon. LAFHAB have therefore put together a tailored course that combines both NVQ Level 2 Hairdressing with specific units from NVQ Level 2 Barbering called, Level 2 NVQ Diploma in Hairdressing with Barbering Units. LAFHAB are also pleased to announce that they have recently teamed up with John Peers, a multi awardwinning hairdresser with 45 years experience within the hairdressing industry. John is providing Masterclasses for the academy tutors, with the knowledge then being passed on to students. John brings a wealth of experience and creativity, picking up awards for British Hairdresser of the Year in 1990 and 1991. John has a number of high profile celebrity clients including Roberto Mancini, Anna Friel and Mary Portas, and is frequently seen at hairdressing shows with WAHL UK’s European Artistic Director, Simon Shaw. 76 Kirkgate, Leeds, West Yorkshire LS2 7DJ T: 01132457439 E:




Afrotherapy (previously Harriet Kessie Hairdressing) was founded in May 2001 by Joseph Cudjoe and Harriet Kessie with a desire, passion and vision to offer professional and expert Afro, mixed-race and multi-textured hairdressing. The salon was refurbished and rebranded to Afrotherapy in October 2009 and is recognised as one of the best in the industry, winning numerous awards and making a positive difference to the lives of the people and the community in which it’s located. The interior is modern, bright and airy with increased retail space and styling units and a new zoned area with dedicated luxury backwash. The team at Afrotherapy pride themselves on their Client Commitment which sets out how they interact and engage with their customers. Each stylist will listen and understand your specific needs, offering expert knowledge and an honest opinion. Your time will be respected and the price you pay will match the quality of service you receive. Services on offer include relaxing, cutting and styling, customised treatments, colouring and weaves and extensions. The team’s expertise is shown through their numerous industry award wins which include Styling Team of the Year – Black Beauty/WAHL Awards, Rising Star of the Year – Black Enterprise Awards, Finalist Avant Garde Stylist of the Year – Black Beauty/WAHL Awards and Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year – Afro Hair and Beauty Awards. At Afrotherapy you will be listened to, you will be valued, you will be inspired, you will be provided with expert knowledge and an honest opinion and you will be cared for by a team who love what they do and are fantastic at it! In addition to the Afrotherapy Salon, offers a range of carefully selected hair, skincare and make-up products for black and ethnic hair and skin. 235 Fore Street, Edmonton, London N18 2TZ T: 0208 345 5621 E:

Hair: Afrotherapy Creative Team Make-up: Nancy Thomas Photography: Ernest Simons

GOOD SALON GUIDE 023 9229 5000 (UK) • 1890 946 661 (IRELAND) 30

Hairstyles Only Jun-Jul 13.indd 6

29/04/2013 10:28:37



Welcome to John Olivers Thetford where individuality and a personal touch for each and every client is top of the agenda. Salon owner Peter Wade and his skilled team see clients coming back to 19 Guildhall street year after year, and each week seeing more new clients coming through its doors to try the JO experience which Peter believes is special and unique to each individual - the word individualism being very significant in this free thinking Salon. Last year John Olivers saw plenty of brides in the salon for a unique bridal hair experience where Fiona, one of John Olivers top stylists, was in her element working with the brides on their special day. Another popular demand at the salon was for Kerastraight straightening, which is a new treatment available for all clients of the salon. As fashions and styles change the team still remain passionate about cutting and colouring hair. Peter takes a great interest in hair products; he has sold and used KMS for most of his career, and in helping his clients maintain their style and care at home. The salon is situated in Thetford, a small market town with free parking in a very old building full of atmosphere. The salon building was once a wool merchant’s home in the mid-15th Century, some of the old features remain but the salon is also a modern and welcoming place with natural oak floors, fresh flowers and comfy recliner chairs at the backwash where you can raise your legs and relax with a cup of coffee or tea and a magazine – which is a particular favourite amongst the John Oliver clients. At John Olivers you will find a wide range of services on offer from cutting, styling, colouring, perming, Kerastraightening and bridal work. The team are purely all about hair and are excellent at what they do and they do it well! 19 Guildhall Street, Thetford, Norfolk IP24 2DT T: 01842 763 145 E: Branches at: Cromer, Ipswich, Norwich, Thetford

Hair: John Olivers Photography: Ian Nixon, Xactive


03/05/2013 10:31:15


Hair: Afrotherapy Creative Team. Make-up: Nancy Thomas. Photography: Ernest Simons


DOCTOR Nearly everyone at some point in their lives experiences some sort of hair problem they’d rather do without. This can include anything from dandruff, heat damage and bad colour to thinning hair, frizziness and bad hairstyles. Here are just a few of the latest hair dilemmas our experts have been helping with...


I want to dye my hair lighter to mask my greys. What do I ask for at a salon? Hi, I really need your advice. I have naturally very dark hair which I started to get greys in my early 20s, so I have been using shop bought hair dye to hide the greys for 15 years. I have only ever used the darkest brown hair dye as it is the closest to my natural colour. I want to dye my hair lighter to try to mask the greys for longer periods and I feel a lighter colour would be nice in the summer. I have never had my hair dyed at a salon and I want to be confident that I know what will work and what to ask for to get the best results. I think the colour I would like is a light brown with lighter highlights. When I last saw my hairdresser she said my hair was in good condition. I would really appreciate your help as it’s such a big change for me and I want to get it right. Thank you, Angie, East Sussex

Hair: The Jakata Artistic Team, Warrington. Photography: Adam Carter 34


“Hi Angie, “As you have been using a permanent darkest brown colour for 15 years I am guessing your hair is extremely dark. To go lighter will be quite a big job and I am doubtful that you will achieve the colour you want in one appointment. “What will need to happen is firstly the colour will need to be lifted and lightened and then the new base shade applied. Then if the hair will lighten further highlights can be applied. “The main worry I would have is that your hair is stained with the dyes you have been using (cuticle stain). This happens when colour is applied over and over. It is then unable to be removed or take on anymore colour. I would be inclined to have an in-depth consultation with a senior colourist who enjoys corrective work and make sure you have a couple of strand tests done to see if it’s possible.” John Clark, Head of Colour at Brooks+Brooks, London

“This is something we deal with in our Brighton salon all the time and there are some simple ways to disguise the grey whilst maintaining a lovely rich base. You can have a dark tint, close to your natural colour, and then run highlights through to disguise the greys, or change to a lighter shade, still with the highlights, to brighten it up for the summer. “If the colour you have now is darker than the one you want, I’d recommend gently stripping the hair with effasor and then choosing a nice chestnut brown for the all-over colour, with a toner to make the highlights really rich. With hair that’s had repeated colouring or been stripped, we usually recommend L’Oreal’s INOA as it’s an oil-based colour and kinder to the hair than traditional colours, as well as being really long-lasting.” “I do hope that these suggestions will help you.” Alice Gazagnes, Senior Stylist & Colourist, Simon Webster Hair, Brighton


After years of heat styling my hair is so dry and frizzy, how can I combat this? “Hello, Hi, Could you please help me! Basically I have very long hair which I straighten every day. I have recently noticed my hair has gone very dry so I decided to work with my natural texture which is wavy, but not a good wave. When I wash my hair I leave it in a loose plait and then the next morning it just looks frizzy, dry and horrible. So I have two questions: 1. How can I work with my natural texture to create beautiful beach waves and stop the horrid frizz? 2. If I stop using heat on my hair for a couple of months and work with my natural texture will this help with the overall condition of my hair? If I can get my natural wave to actually look ok then I will probably stop straightening my hair. It’s a vicious circle, I straighten it because I hate my horrid waves yet the more I straighten it the worse the condition! Please help, I’m so fed up with this and on the verge of shaving it all off! Thank you, Sam, London


“You will be doing your hair a great deal of good by not straightening it every day so please stick with the natural waves and you will reap the rewards. “To help with the styling of the hair you should be using products that will help enhance and condition your curl. For example, use a curl shampoo and conditioner and use a styling product like ‘Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner’ or even a light nonsticky mousse. “Another great product you can use to help with the condition of your hair is ‘Phillip Kingsley Elasticizer’, a pre-shampoo treatment which you massage into the hair and leave for 10-20 minutes covered with a plastic cap - you then shampoo and condition as normal. “I would also strongly recommend a good haircut to get rid of all the dry broken ends as these will just get worse over time and it is very hard to fix once snapped or broken. The biggest thing you should be aiming for is prevention. Start a fresh and from this day forward enjoy your fabulous locks.” Joseph Koniak, Artistic Director of Joseph Koniak and Eleven Hair, London


“Hi Sam,

“Hi Sam,

“There are a few things you can do to repair hair damaged by overuse of heat tools. If you’re going to continue using the heat tools, then you need to use a good preparation product to provide some heatprotection whilst styling. These are easy to find and most good salons will do a range suitable for your hair type and be able to advise you how to use them. When styling with heat, they give off a mist or ‘steam’ and this is the product burning off and protecting your hair from the drying effects. Obviously, the ideal scenario though is to avoid heat styling as much as possible, especially if you know you’ve damaged your hair already.

“Firstly you are not alone! Thousands of ladies are caught in the net of heat damage and are now having to use heat to get the finish they want. It’s no problem – it’s my area of expertise.

“In that instance and in terms of styling, try a salt-spray for those beachy, wind-swept waves. Bumble & Bumble developed the original ‘Surf spray’ (now copied by numerous cosmetic companies) to create definition, texture and volume in natural wavy hair and it can be cocktailed with other products to add more polish if you want a more elegant, evening style. You can either spray it through the roots and lengths and leave to dry naturally or style it with a dryer if you prefer. They also do a range called ‘Straight’ which helps you achieve the straightened blow-dry without the straighteners and is much kinder to your hair and would allow you to keep the style without so much damage. “There are also products you can use to repair the damage to your hair caused by the straighteners and dryers. Bumble & Bumble also make a product range called ‘Quenching’ which is profoundly hydrating and was developed for exactly that purpose; restoring natural moisture, softness and strength. The complete range includes shampoo, conditioner, leave-in styling complex and deep conditioning masque, but you can mix and match depending on what you think you need most. They’re like antibiotics for your hair and as such should only be used for a limited amount of time to regain the moisture lost through heat-damage. Once you’re happy with the condition again, return to an everyday cleansing and conditioning product and just treat your hair with a Quenching masque every so often to maintain it. You can return to the products whenever you feel like the condition is suffering again.

“Your hair is dry because it lacks moisture, you need to condition it more or use a conditioning mask once a week. Also, there are lots of curl creams on the market which you apply to wet hair. Leave these in your hair whilst drying naturally or diffuse dry without touching it. “These creams are packed with love, moisture and hydration as well as weight to stop the curls from fluffing up. Apply three or four 50p sized amounts to your mid-lengths and ends and leave to dry – just watch the curls stay controlled and lush. “My favourite products for curls are the Bumble & Bumble Curl Conscious range - dedicated to curly hair the range never lets me down. The effects last a long time and give the hair the moisture it needs. There are others on the market but not as moisturising. Also regarding your beach curls, Bumble & Bumble have just launched their new surf shampoo and conditioner, the first of its kind. Team this with their surf spray and it gives the type of beach hair every girl wants – it’s amazing!” Nelson Brown of browns in Dumfries

“Hope this helps!” Sophie Webster, salon owner, Simon Webster Hair, Brighton



Hair: Claire Atkinson @ HOB Salons. Photography: John Rawson


Every time I curl my hair with tongs or curlers it drops out! Hi, I want curls in my hair but every time I try tonging it or use curlers it just drops out! I have used mousse, volumising shampoos etc but nothing works. Can you help me with what I might need to do? Thanks, Claire, Sunderland

“Some people’s hair unfortunately will need lots of help in making it curl and keeping it there! If your hair is long heavy and poker straight then it really is down to products and the method in which it is curled that will decide on whether it will last. Try using strong volumising products when the hair is wet, drying them into the hair and then using a very strong hold hairspray on each section before you wind it around the curling tong. “I would also use smaller sections and consider using a smaller tong as this will give a tighter curl that should drop over time. If your hair is one length then maybe a few layers would be beneficial to remove some weight that pull down on the curls. I don’t recommend perming the hair to give a curl as this won’t give a stylish look, rather a more 80s shaggy image which I am sure you don’t want.” John Clark, Head of Colour at Brooks+Brooks, London

“Hi Claire, “May I suggest you find a good salon that can give your hair a soft volume permanent wave; this will not have to be a strong curly wave but a soft one so that when you set or curl your hair it will hold. Such permanent waves can last up to three months depending on the wear and tear and length of your hair. “If your hair is in good condition and there is no bleach on it then a soft perm should be fine. Just make sure the stylist uses large perm rods/rollers so that the perm is really soft. Do not use any small perm rods/rollers; these can make your hair frizzy which is definitely not what you want. “Alternatively, (you may not want to go down the chemical route) try to set your hair using medium or smaller setting rollers and a reasonably strong setting lotion, gel or mousse - use this product on the roots of your hair for extra hold and lift. Once set let the hair dry well, give it five minutes to cool off then brush out vigorously. If the curl is too strong keep brushing it until the hair falls smoother and the curls or waves are just what you want. If your hair is too curly that way, brush the hair out after it is still warm; this will take some of the stronger waves or curls out. “I do hope that these suggestions will help you.” Pierre Alexandre of Pierre Alexandre, Manchester



Hair: Nelson Brown of browns, Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland. Photography: Ciarran Oldham


I always have red/orange undertones showing through once I dye my hair. How do I get rid of these? Hi there, I had my hair bleach shampooed in order to achieve red hair. I am naturally a level 2, maybe 3, brown so I was told it was necessary. The red hair dye that was applied was a semi-permanent so after awhile the red started to fade and the brassy orange my hair was bleached too showed through, so I box dyed it red again. The brassy orange has returned and now I just want to get back to my normal hair colour. How would I do this? I have tried dying it ash brown but the red and orange always comes back. I am so tired of having four different colours in my hair, please help! Thank you, Merehuka, Portland

“Hi Merehuka, “I suggest stripping the colour with L’Oreal’s effasor mixed with 6% oxydant so it’s gentler on the hair, then we could go for an oil-based colour which will help improve the condition. A shade like INOA 5.18 (an ashy brown) would be good and help restore the shine which must have suffered from the home colouring. Always use a sulfate-free shampoo afterwards to help maintain the colour for longer.” Alice Gazagnes, Senior Stylist & Colourist, Simon Webster Hair, Brighton

“After having hair bleach shampooed the hair is permanently lightened to reveal the warm undercoat, which in your case as your hair is naturally very dark is orange and red. The best plan of action to return the hair to its natural colour (as close as possible) is to use a semipermanent shade. Once this fades have it reapplied, over time the colour should build up and not return as dramatically to its orange state. “Remember that lightened hair is porous so colours will always fade from the hair like this. Regular trims and moisturising treatments should help you.” John Clark, Head of Colour at Brooks+Brooks, London



Hair: SWH Team @ Styling: Stevie Jelbart. Make-up: Xoe Kingsley & Alessia Mancini. Photography: Kevin Mason @

WHAT’S NEW? All the latest news, gossip and events from Good Salon Guide salons



Hair: The Art Team at Brooks+Brooks, London. Photography: Jenny Hands


Emily Hart of Errol Douglas is Announced New Ambassador for Transformation Connections Hair Extensions Great4Hair Extensions will be working with Emily Hart, Senior Stylist at Errol Douglas, to launch the new Transformation Connections advertising campaign to the hairdressing industry.

“Hair extensions can be fantastic but only if they are both safe and natural looking, Transformation Connections completely fit the brief. And from a stylist’s perspective they’re also great because they are quick to apply.

Emily has worked at the renowned Errol Douglas salon in Mayfair, London for over nine years and has become one of the leading stylists for clients seeking beautiful and natural looking hair extensions. She also has expertise across European, Afro-Caribbean and mixed race textured hair.

Michael Quinn is Appointed Educator for JOICO Michael Quinn Hairdressing, located in the heart of Belfast, has been completely revamped to celebrate the success of Michael Quinn’s new role as an educator for the JOICO haircare brand – a particular honour as he is the first and only one to hold this title in Northern Ireland.

Transformation Connection hair extensions are innovative single strand hair extensions which are applied and removed without the use of glue, heat or weaving. Transformation Connections are reusable and can be reapplied for up to a year if clients attend regular appointments with their hairstylist. Unlike other hair extension systems, Transformation Connections can be applied in less than two hours and removed in under half an hour. Commenting on her new role Emily said, “Many women would love to have hair extensions but they don’t want to risk damaging their hair, whilst other women have been put off by hair extensions which look great but come with a long list of maintenance rules to follow - no one wants to work that hard to keep their hair looking good. “Transformation Connections are a real advancement in hair extensions, application and removal without glue, heat or weaving and they are reusable. There are genuinely no down sides to Transformation Connections, my clients love them. I am proud to be the new ambassador.” Errol Douglas MBE trained Emily as a sixteen year old apprentice and considers her one of his most successful protégés. Errol added,

“Emily has not looked back since introducing the service into our salon. Finally with Transformation Connections, hair extensions can be safe, beautiful and easy.”

This bright and spacious salon prides itself on its comfortable and relaxed atmosphere which has been redesigned and adapted to fit Michael’s new educator role. A colour and styling station has been introduced along with a dedicated area where Michael and his creative team can host various training seminars to hairdressing students. Who better to learn from then those who have undergone training at JOICO’s Artistic Institute in Helmond, Netherlands? The new salon design allows more space so clients can fully relax and enjoy their treatments; this includes the new wash basins which are complete with massage chairs, enhancing the pampering experience. At Michael Quinn Hairdressing they offer a fantastic range of services which includes cutting, colouring, styling and creative upstyles, as well as a wide range of JOICO haircare products that clients can use to maintain their new style at home.


Joseph Koniak Hair Design Workshop Joseph Koniak, an award-winning artistic director and hair artist, is excited to announce a one-off hair-up course at Wella Professional Studios in London. Joseph’s career background is second to none, and he’s had the privilege of working in various industries including fashion, film, music, media, press and Red Carpet events for a number of celebrities. Joseph has designed hair for The Clothes Show Live, Pure Spirit, The White Gallery and The National Wedding Show. In addition he has worked on many fashion shows including Vivien Westwood, Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani and Mulberry. His film and television credits consists of Harry Potter, Batman, Mama Mia, Skyfall, Dark Shadows, Dancing on Ice, Downton Abbey and Da Vinci’s Demons. Hair ‘Dressing & Styling’ is Joseph’s passion and he is excited and delighted to be sharing the knowledge he has acquired over his 25 years in the hairdressing industry! The course will provide students with solid techniques in the art of hair-up – producing designs in their own style that is appropriate to the occasion. Hair-up is an asset and a skill to any artist. It can increase your income immensely and give you confidence in all areas of hairdressing including stage work and photographic shoots, not to mention weddings and special occasions. Set yourself apart from the rest with this excellent course. Monday 23rd September 2013 at the Wella Studios, London Mango Love Hair Top-up Their Skills Mango Love Hair is having some great training session’s in-salon from one of the North East’s top head stylists. Held every two weeks, they are topping up their skills with the latest; bang ontrend, colour and styling techniques. Held every other Tuesday, Mango Love Hair is always looking for models to help out. Call the salon on 0191 386 3900 for further info. 46

Hair: Jamie Stevens of Jamie Stevens Hair. Photography: Jens Wilkholm


HOB Man Triumphs at Inaugural Opal Award Ceremony HOB Man is off to a remarkable start, the first gent’s only grooming salon within the 24 HOB Salons group has been awarded for its innovation at an exclusive awards ceremony. As the only business to be put forward from the renowned North West London Brent Cross Shopping Centre, the men’s grooming haven went on to scoop the crown in the Mall Retail category. Presented with a BCSC Opal Award at a special breakfast ceremony, HOB Man Franchisee Adam Carvin was joined by HOB Director Clive Collins to accept the accolade. The awards programme was devised by leading retail property trade body, British Council of Shopping Centres, to recognise excellence in commercial activity taking place in UK shopping centres. From a pool of 40 entries across four categories, HOB Man Brent Cross was applauded for its innovative new approach to gent’s hairdressing with judges commenting, “Great looking mall kiosk - very professional, very creative use of mall, love it!” “This is impressive. An ambitious plan executed with innovation which demonstrates a keen sense of creativity taking a traditional function to a new level. Very clever approach - love it!” Lloyd Blakey at Innovare Design, the retail designers responsible for HOB Man’s concept, applauded both their client and the Brent Cross Shopping Centre management team, “This was an exciting and challenging project. To deliver a unique salon feel in a busy thoroughfare within strict design guidelines required close collaboration, co-operation and vision from all parties. That’s how we’ve achieved this breakthrough retail creativity.” A concept salon which caters solely to the male market, HOB Man’s expert grooming

team offer everything from brush-on colour through to hot-towel shaves and precision cuts seven days a week. Speaking on the win, HOB Man Franchisee Adam Carvin said, “It is an honour to be the only business in the whole of Brent Cross being put forward for this when we only just opened last year. And then to win too was just amazing. We believed this location would be perfect, and with careful design and planning it all came together perfectly. The team and I are thrilled with this win and I can’t wait to continue the HOB Man journey.” Other winners included super brands BMW and Models Own, marking HOB Man one of an elite group of outstanding mall based stores across the country. Phoenix Step Up for Hospice Popular Abergele hair and beauty salon, Phoenix Hair & Make Up, took part in a ‘Ladies Day’ in support of their chosen 2013 charity - St Kentergens Hospice, St. Asaph. The Phoenix team provided a pop-up salon along with goody bags at The Oriel House Hotel in St Asaph, where over 100 women stopped by to get hair and make-up advice from the highly skilled stylists. When asked what the most sought after advice was, salon owner Pauline Heap Williams revealed, “A lot of the ladies were really interested in curling, and how to get the best curl from the Tigi Pro Curl Stick and the Cloud Nine Curling Wand, as well as wedding hair advice.” Pauline also said, “We are big supporters of the hospice and it was our pleasure to take part in the event.” The team will have to wait for another few weeks to find out how much they raised as the final amount from the event is yet to be announced.



Hair: Sandra Webb Hair & Beauty, London


Clipso St Albans Attend L’Oreal Professionnel’s Voices Simon Cox, Managing Director of Clipso St Albans, along with several of his team members attended L’Oreal Professionnel’s Voices featuring the Westrow Art Team. Voices is a unique opportunity to see some of the most inspirational, successful and talented hairdressers and colourists in the UK. It is a series of evening events held at L’Oréal Professionnel’s educational sites at which the latest collections are performed by some of the industry’s most inspiring names. Whether it’s a commercial cut and colour or an avantgarde look, this is a must-see for any stylist or technician. Simon Cox, Managing Director of Clipso commented, “The evening began with an opening video montage of images, shows and great colour work created by the Westrow Art Team. Steve Rowbottom who established Westrow was our host for the evening and did a Q&A to start the evening. Afterwards he presented the models who were wearing strong short cuts softened with soft loose finishes to keep the looks feminine. The colours were excellent and well explained. I will definitely be incorporating one of the techniques shown in my own cuts within the salon to create fun looks for my clients and something that is not fully permanent. All in all it was a really good evening of inspiration.” Gemma Burke, Master Hair Designer at Clipso commented, “I felt so inspired whilst watching the Westrow Art Team. I have learnt new techniques and colour mixes that I can now use on my own clients within the salon.” Leah Malski, Hair Designer at Clipso commented, “I found the presentation interesting and have learnt a lot from Westrow`s knowledge that I can take back into the salon, such as different colour placements and different colour mixing to achieve different shades and colour effects.” Veronika Stanova, Master Hair Designer at Clipso commented, “I enjoyed the evening with the Westrow Art Team; it’s always good to see stage work. The presentation was fantastic. The colour and cutting techniques were refreshing and inspiring. At the end of the event I had a closer look at the models colours to see first-hand the blended technique the colourist had used to prevent a block effect, I loved the looks.” MONTHLY MAGAZINE 49


Hair: Kay McIntyre @ McIntyres, Dundee. Photography: John Rawson

Lauren Rees of Spirit Hair Team Takes First Place at Salon Cymru Training for just over six months, Lauren Rees of Spirit Hair Team in Ystrad Mynach, has gone on to take first place at Salon Cymru in the 80s Funk Blow-Dry category. Lauren joined Spirit Hair Team in August 2012 and is the second apprentice from the salon to have come first place in this competition. Every year over 500 hairdressing enthusiasts descend on the SWALEC Stadium in Cardiff to participate in the most talked about and eagerly anticipated hairdressing and beauty event of the year. Salon owner Donna Friend commented, “This is the second year one of our apprentices has won in this competition and we couldn’t be more proud of them.” Mia Stronach of Jason Hall Hairdressing makes it to the Finals of the INAA’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards Jason Hall Hairdressing in Edinburgh has finalised in the country’s leading hair and beauty competition, the INAA’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. The black tie event will take place on May 26th at the glamorous Hilton Hotel in Glasgow. The prestigious ceremony will be hosted by Clyde FM’s Romeo and will kick-off with a champagne reception followed by a four-course dinner. Entertainment will be provided by celebrity DJ Jodie Harsh at the after show party. With voting now closed and only a few weeks to go, Mia Stronach of Jason Hall Hairdressing made it into the finals in the Best Female Stylist category. On hearing the news salon owner Jason Hall commented, “It really is excellent that Mia has been recognised for her hard work in-salon and of course her creative assistance on our shoots and film projects. We know the entire team is behind her and looking forward to the big night.” Joanne Reid, Managing Director of INAA said, “This year we have been overwhelmed by the

increase in entry numbers. Each year we push forward to grow and develop the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards so that the salons and individuals can be recognised for the hard work they put in. We’ve also seen an increase in public voting which proves there is real demand for the awards.” Nelson Brown Finalises in the INAA Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards Nelson Brown of browns in Dumfries has finalised in Scotland’s leading hair and beauty competition, the INAA’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards, in the Best Male Stylist category. A regular on the fashion week circuit, Nelson has been whittled down from 1000s that entered this year’s competition proving he is one of the top stylists in Scotland. The prestigious ceremony will be hosted by Clyde FM’s Romeo at the Hilton Hotel in Glasgow on May 26th and will kick-off with a champagne reception followed by a four-course dinner. Entertainment will be provided by celebrity DJ Jodie Harsh at the after show party. Master Colour Expert Crombie Attends Wella Master Colour Congress The Master Colour Congress got off to a colourful start at the Wella Studio in Manchester with a handful of Master Colour Experts, which included Crombie from browns in Dumfries, in attendance. The Wella Professionals Master Colour Congress is an event packed with presentations, guest speakers and fashion work, and gives those who attend a sneak preview of new products and trends ahead of the competition. Crombie watched and worked alongside the Wella Senior Technicians on their new and groundbreaking visionary system, Colour and Consistency, set to break the boundaries of colour application and tone distribution. Master Colourist Crombie is one of Scotland’s highest marked colour experts as well as Scotland’s current Colour Technician of the Year. MONTHLY MAGAZINE 51

Joseph Koniak Announced as Official Stylist for White Gallery 2013 White Gallery London has announced hairdresser Joseph Koniak as the official catwalk hairstylist. Joseph’s vast portfolio ranges from Strictly Come Dancing to Downton Abbey and recent James Bond film Skyfall, as well as celebrity clients including Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, and a variety of catwalk shows including Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood, Julian Macdonald, Oscar de la Renta, Stella McCartney and many more. The fourth edition of White Gallery London, taking place from 19-21 May, will showcase bridal wear and accessory collections for 2014 from more than 70 designers. HOB Salons Create New Style Based On Tomb Raider Heroine As one of the biggest selling games of 2013, the return of Lara Croft in Tomb Raider has already had a considerable impact on the gaming world. But now the ‘Lara effect’ is making its mark in hair salons across the UK with HOB Salons being the go to salon for recreating the in demand hairstyle. Released in March of this year, the new Tomb Raider game is an origin story portraying a young Lara Croft on her very first adventure. This more realistic looking Lara has now become a surprise style icon and awardwinning hairdressing group, HOB Salons, have unveiled ‘The Lara’ – a hairstyle based on the iconic videogame character. Claire Atkinson, HOB Salons’ Expert Stylist and Creative Team member said, “The new Lara Croft has featured heavily on advertising all across London, most notably on the buses, and we saw that her style


Hair: The Artistic Team, Hugh Campbell Hair Group. Photography: Claudio Gangi


has become much more natural, with that signature ponytail barely containing her gorgeous, brunette locks. Clearly she’s made quite an impact as we’ve had customers asking us in the salons to replicate the Lara look, especially with the looseness of this ponytail being a perfect style for the festival season.” This attainable look provided the inspiration for HOB Salons to create the special cut, supported by a plethora of customer requests. HOB are now rolling out ‘The Lara’ to all 24 of their salons, complete with instructions to their stylists explaining how to create the hairstyle to service any clients inspired by Lara Croft. Claire added, “A lot of people draw inspiration from fictional characters, but we think this is definitely the first time we’ve ever produced a style based on a computer game character.” The Tomb Raider reboot is the fastest-selling game in the franchise to date, developed by Crystal Dynamics, written by Rhianna Pratchett and featuring True Blood’s Camilla Luddington as Lara Croft, the title’s reinvention of one of gaming’s most iconic characters has won widespread critical acclaim. Keeley Gent of Harleys Hairdressing Achieves Wella Master Colour Award Congratulations to Keeley Gent of Harleys Hairdressing who has recently achieved her Wella Master Colour Award. Keeley is now the second technician to have achieved Master Colour status in the Harleys Hairdressing group further enhancing their reputation within the hairdressing industry.

Jason Hall Treats Salon Team to a Private Film Viewing All successful salon owners know how important good education and direction is when running a salon. However, showing appreciation for employees often goes amiss – not in Jason Hall’s case. Jason Hall of Jason Hall Hairdressing, Edinburgh invited his salon team to the luxury ‘Red Star’ screen room at the local Dominion Cinema to discuss good salon service. Arriving at the cinema, the team waited patiently for Jason to begin his discussion, but Jason had other plans. As the lights dimmed in the screen room, cinema attendants appeared carrying bottles of champagne, boxes of popcorn and hot dogs for all the team to enjoy whilst they watched a private viewing of the film, ‘You Don’t Mess with the Zohan’. Salon owner, Jason Hall stated, “It’s essential to thank your team for their work and this was the ultimate surprise for them. It was worth it just for the look on their faces.” Salon Coordinator, Mia Stronach spoke of the surprise by saying, “An incredible surprise, everyone really enjoyed the film, we all felt very special.” Once the film had ended Jason thanked his team for all their hard work and for sharing his vision of great service.

To book an appointment with Keeley, or with any of the other amazing stylists and technicians available at Harleys, call 01246 559159 (Chatsworth Road) or 01246 208892 (Holywell Street).


Local Leeds Hairdresser is Recognised as One of UK’s Top Hairstylists Benjamin Blackburn of HOB Salons Leeds has been recognised as one of the UK’s top professional hairstylists following his success at reaching the UK and Ireland Final of the Wella Professionals Trend Vision Award 2013, in the Young Talent Category. Beating off stiff competition, the young stylist was selected from over 800 entries at the initial Photographic stage for the Regional Heats, which have been taking place across the country in Scotland, Manchester, The Midlands and London over the last few weeks. Following Ben’s success in the Northern Regional Heat on the 15th May, he is now one of only 36 UK hairdressers to reach this year’s UK and Ireland Final, making him one of the country’s most sought-after and in-demand professional hairstylists. Created to discover and acknowledge the industry’s most skilled hairstylists and colourists, Wella Trend Vision focuses on all aspects of hairstyling and colouring, and the Photographic and Regional Heats are judged by some of the UK’s leading hair icons, including Rob Eaton of Russell Eaton, Dan Spiller of Marc Antoni, Mark Creed of Philosophy and Mark Woolley of Electric. This year the four trends are Allegra, Fusion, Decibel and Echo - entrants were asked to interpret one of the four trends with their own personal style. This annual four stage competition kicked off earlier this year with a Photographic Entry where Ben’s interpretation of Echo took him through to the Northern Regional Final which saw him showcase his chosen trend on a live model in a dazzling evening show. Ben spoke of his achievement by saying, “I’m so proud to have reached the UK Final of such an influential competition. I am very excited


Hair: Sarah & Adrian Bowron @ Aesthetics, Solihull. Photography: John Rawson


about taking part and competing against the best hairdressers in the country, and hopefully following in my HOB Salons team member’s footsteps at the UK Final in October.” Ben will now have time to prepare for the Wella Professionals Trend Vision Award UK and Ireland Final, one of the industry’s biggest and most inspirational events. Due to take place on Monday 7th October at legendary cultural venue – the Roundhouse in London’s Camden - competitors will present in front of hundreds and be judged by the best in the industry for the opportunity to walk away with the ultimate accolade in hairdressing.

we’re such a new business. I can’t wait to show the hairdressing world what we can do!” Stephanie has been hairdressing for ten years and has taken part in many competitions. She is striving to improve each year and said of her success, “I’m so excited to be part of this competition again and I’m aiming to get the full set this year and bring home the gold.” This year’s Tend Vision Finals will take place on October 7th at the Roundhouse in Camden, London.

Should Ben be successful at the UK and Ireland Final, he will benefit from a dedicated mentoring programme which will then see him take part in the International Trend Vision Award, due to take place in Frankfurt in 2014. So whether you fancy a new style, the latest celeb look, or just want advice from the hairdressing elite, book your appointment now with Benjamin Blackburn at HOB Salons Leeds on 0113 243 5555. Stephanie Prophett of HAIR38 Reaches the Wella Trend Vision Finals HAIR38 in Nantwich is celebrating the success of their Senior Stylist, Stephanie Prophett, who is going for gold at this year’s UK Finals of the prestigious Wella Trend Vision Awards. Stephanie has competed in the Wella Trend Vision before, receiving Bronze in 2011 and Silver in 2012. This has gained her acknowledgement and respect within the hairdressing industry and the local community. Last year, Crewe and Nantwich MP Edward Timpson, even wrote a personal letter of congratulations to Stephanie. HAIR38 is a local Salon based on Hospital Street, and recently celebrated its 1st year anniversary. Salon owner Hayley Wrench said, “I am so delighted and proud of Stephanie’s achievement, and the HAIR38 team for being part of such a prestigious award, especially as



Hair: Hayley Welling and the Cientè Art Team at Cientè. Make-up: Jo Sugar. Stylist: Jo Toronka. Photographer: Desmond Murray

Arrocca Hairdressing Training Centre Launches in Berkhamsted What do local business leaders, a football legend and an MP all have in common? They are all in support of the newly opened Arrocca hairdressing training centre which was recently launched in Berkhamsted on the 13th May. Arrocca is the brainchild of experienced hairdresser, Trisha Buller, who also owns Ciente - one of Berkhamsted’s most successful salons. Having spent over 30 years in the industry, Trisha believes that now is the right time to share her knowledge with those at the start of their careers. The new purpose built training facility is based in a beautifully refurbished building in Dwights Yard (behind Villagio), and is supported by the leading Joshua Galvin Academy. Arrocca has the capacity to train up to 20 school leavers and apprentices to National Vocational Qualifications (NVQ) in Hairdressing Levels Two and Three. Stateof-the-art theory rooms and a real salon environment allow learners to gain both skills and confidence. Run by an expert team of dedicated trainers and assessors, Arrocca is a new centre of excellence for hairdressing education and takes a different approach by returning to industry core values. The hand-picked team is led by director Trisha, who is an experienced hairdressing educator with an intimate knowledge of hairdressing skills, trichology and science and successful salon management. In launching Arrocca, Trisha is delighted to be able to share her passion for hairdressing, passing new skills and creative vision to the next generation of hairdressing professionals. Trisha explains, “The Arrocca team is incredibly dedicated and our training will focus on the traditional and fundamental skills of hairdressing and customer service.”

At the centre’s official launch Trisha was joined by MP David Morris, who is an exsalon owner, hairdresser and a champion of state registration for hairdressers in Parliament. David said, “Trisha and her team have a great vision to offer high-quality hairdressing training to people in their local area which I hope will provide quality education and employment opportunities.” Ex Watford and England Footballer, Luther Blissett, who helps young people in the area as part of his Team 48 motor racing business, was equally enthusiastic about the potential offered by the new facility. Luther commented, “I believe people like myself and Trisha who have had successful careers have a responsibility to do what we can to help young people living locally to enjoy similar opportunities.”

This is a view which is shared by BDCC Chairman David Steadman, “As one of my first functions as chairman, I am delighted to endorse a new training centre in the town for young people starting off their careers. I am sure this will be a successful venture and a welcome initiative to add to the town’s reputation.” With Arrocca well underway, Trisha is keen to ensure she and her team of expert trainers share their knowledge with as many people in the region as possible. Describing her vision Trisha says, “Hairdressing is an industry of which I am incredibly proud and I will do what I can to ensure it continues to enjoy a superb reputation.” Arrocca: Unit 2, Dwights Yard, Berkhamsted HP4 3HB


Anglian Academy of Hair Spectacular 2013 Anglian Academy of Hair recently held their annual competition at The Open in Norwich. The success of this annual competition is rapidly making this event the biggest and most spectacular of its kind in the East Anglian region. Over 70 students from schools throughout Norfolk and Suffolk participated, with their results being staged in a spectacular evening show to a capacity audience bringing down every seat in the house! The Anglian Academy Art Team closed the show with a stage production called ‘Paradise’ with a mixture of dancers and models. The compère for the evening was Rob Lamarr whose wit and repartee kept the whole thing moving along. The judges for the event included Sue Barker of Barkers Hairdressing Supplies, Jonathon McKinnon of Headmasters, Lisa Webster – A former Tutor of the academy, Louise Rogers from John Olivers Ipswich, Val Thacker of Great Yarmouth College and Alistair Reardon of The Cottage Hair and Beauty. All judges unanimously agreed that the standard of work was exemplary. The product prizes and £100 education voucher were donated by Barkers Hairdressing Suppliers and Matrix. Anglian Academy Director, Karen Pymer, was thrilled with the event saying, “The support and contribution from all the staff and learners goes from strength to strength every year, and I am privileged to have the opportunity to recognise everyone’s effort. The Academy Art Team also put on a stage production this year and from the feedback already received we are delighted with the response.”



The Winners: VRQ Level 1 (pre 16 years of age) – Future Winner – Viktoria Ruszoova – CNS Runner-up – Katherine Greavner – Attleborough High School VRQ Diploma Level 2 (pre 16 years of age) – Future Winner – Georgia Wells – Sprowston High School Runner-up – Kaily Hitchborn-Brown – CNS NVQ Level 2 1st years – Disney Winner - Lydia Cooper – Cream Runner-up – Charlotte Barren – Brian Roberts NVQ Level 2 2nd Years – Earth, Wind and Fire Winner – Phillippa Richardson – John Olivers, Woodbridge Runner-up – Sheryl Freeman – John Olivers, Ipswich Barbering NVQ Level 2 Winner – Naomi Adams – The Egg Runner-up – Lydia Seanbrook – RJC NVQ Level 3 in Hairdressing – Myths and Legends Winner – Rebecca Rolfe – Cut to the Chase Hair Design Runner-up – Amber Shepherd – Salon 2 Outstanding Achievement was awarded to George Brooks who was nominated for the 100% effort he puts into his own work and is a committed team player. George also went out of his way to help his tutor when she was working towards her Level 4 in Barbering.


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Hair: Karen Thomson at Kam Hair & Body Spa. Photography: Jim Crone

Good Salon Guide June 13  

Is your hair thirsty, dry, brittle and lacking lustre? Fear not for in this issue we give you some handy tips on how to banish dry hair and...

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