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Interviews Jean-Marc Pontroué CEO Panerai

TECHNIQUE Chronometry according to Patek Philippe and Rolex

Cyrus

CRAFTMANSHIP Inside the Hermès leather workshop

Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon GMT ME No 16 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2018

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9 771660 110613


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Editorial AUTUMN 2018

So many changes are taking place in the watch industry…

I

t seems the Swatch Group decision to not return to Baselworld next year has started a trend. Or perhaps it was Movado Group, Inc. (MGI) that started it, absent from

Baselword already this year with its three major brands of Movado, Concord and EBEL, preferring to invest in more private functions with its customers. Corum announced

this month it will not return…the list is surely not finished yet.

Changes are expected at SIHH also, with Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille announcing their departures from the Geneva exhibition as of 2020. There are new arrivals though:

Hermès joined SIHH in 2018, and for the 2019 edition Bovet will be back for the first time

since 2002, for a total of 35 brands. The brands leaving the shows say it is to be in line with the strategic repositioning of their distribution channels. We’ll see if and how any of this might affect the final customer.

Another major announcement came, this time from the LVMH Group, on September 21st, to

advise that Jean-Claude Biver was withdrawing from his operational responsibilities as head of the watches division of the Group, for health reasons. He will stay on as non-executive Chairman and advisor.

His exceptional personality and career of over 40 years in the field of watchmaking

eventually led him to LVMH where he, notably, developed the product offer and commercial expansion of Hublot, Tag Heuer, and Zenith.

FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief

Interviews

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM

Jean-Marc Pontroué CEO Panerai

Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

TECHNIQUE Chronometry according to Patek Philippe and Rolex

Cyrus

CRAFTMANSHIP Inside the Hermès leather workshop

Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon GMT ME No 16 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2018

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9 771660 110613

GMT ME MAGAZINE NO16 2018

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GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.


arraw

MARINE G

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rjwatches.com RJXWATCHES


Contents AUTUMN 2018

BUSINESS 34 WHO’S WHO 36-56 HOT NEWS 74 INTERVIEW Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO Panerai

118 ATMOSPHERE Audemars Piguet rebuilds the Hôtel des Horlogers

ART

26 EDITORIAL 28-30 CONTENTS 32 CONTRIBUTORS

78-80 GPHG 2018 The favorites are lining up

106 WATCH PHOTO AWARDS 112 CRAFTSMANSHIP

TECHNIQUE

52

Inside the Hermès leather workshop

70 Sporty chic rules 108 Two approaches to chronometry

120 COLLECTOR’S CORNER Treasure hunt

64 LIFESTYLE 124 SCENTS 126 ZOOMS Vacheron Constantin, Dubai Watch Week, Richard Mille, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Frédérique Constant, RJ, Audemars Piguet

NEW RELEASES 60-63 EDITOR’S PICKS 64-67 COVER STORY Cyrus, Art meets technology, and innovation combines with design

102 TRILOGY Bovet 1822, completes a trilogy of celestial timepieces

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Contents AUTUMN 2018

81

Focus Close-up view of 18 new releases

81 BREGUET Pure Breguet

82 CHAUMET The Dandy appears in all-new attire

83 CHANEL Merging territories

84 EBERHARD & CO. Honoring the “campionissimo”

85 FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT Thirty years young

86 HERMÈS

100

Leather meets titanium

87 HUBLOT Time for knowledge

88 JAQUET DROZ Maximizing light

89 JAEGER-LECOULTRE Revisiting an icon

90 LOUIS VUITTON True to itself

91 JACOB & CO. Mafia blues

92 RICHARD MILLE A matter of structure

93 TAG HEUER Carbon forever

94 ULYSSE NARDIN Marine Corps

95 VACHERON CONSTANTIN The Tourbillon beats to the Fiftysix tune

96 ZENITH Titanium and hundredths of a second

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98 MAURON MUSY Steel Armure Anima, The Armure reveals a new face

100 ARMIN STROM Dual Time Resonance: Masterpiece 1

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93


An international watch owners club offering its members year-round benefits In association with GMT Magazine, WorldTempus, Geneva Watch Tour and Watch Photo Awards

O pe ni ng 2 0 19 register now on

Photography: Karine Bauzin

www.fine-watch-club.com


Contributors Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

32

Marie De Pimodan

Christophe Persoz

An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.

This experienced watchmaker analyzes a watch that he wears for an entire week and delivers his technical and aesthetic verdict.

Paul O’Neil

Michèle Brunner

David Chokron

The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.

An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.

An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.

Cloé Mugny

Pierre Millasson

A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.

This watch industry professional analyzes the auction world in the Collector’s Corner column.

Brice Lechevalier

Edouard Haegi

Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.

Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


b e i n g

s w i s s

inspired by the past. shaping the future.

More than Swiss Made. 100% Swiss Crafted.

Agent for the Middle East Bonus Eventus, Dubai , UAE Email: jbeainy@bonuseventus.ae Mobile: +971552255343


Who’s who BRICE LECHEVALIER

Stéphane Bianchi

Stéphane Bianchi has been appointed CEO of the LVMH Watch Division (Hublot, TAG Heuer, Zenith), taking the reins of TAG Heuer, where he will be backed by Strategy and Digital Director Frédéric Arnault. Bianchi has worked for Arthur Andersen and more recently served as CEO of Yves Rocher and Petit Bateau, as well as sitting on the board of the Swiss group Maus.

Jérôme Lambert

Jérôme Lambert continues his rise within the Richemont group, of which he was appointed CEO in September, after a year serving as Chief Operating Officer and previously as Head of Operations responsible for central and regional services. Prior to that he had been Chief Executive Officer at Jaeger-LeCoultre between 2002 and 2013 and at Montblanc since 2013.

Patrick Pruniaux

Kering has reinforced Patrick Pruniaux’s role and stature within the group by appointing him as CEO of Girard-Perregaux this summer. A watch industry professional with an atypical profile, he has been at the helm of Ulysse Nardin for the past year and will continue as such alongside his new responsibilities.

Deremi Ajidahun François-Paul Journe Aldo Magada

Aldo Magada has accepted the position of CEO of Anonimo, whose shareholder had acquired Vulcain last Spring and had already entrusted him with the reins in order to relaunch the brand. This cigar aficionado has acquired a wealth of experience in the watch industry with Richemont, Breitling, Badollet and recently at the head of Zenith.

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François-Paul Journe has sold a minority stake in his brand to Chanel, thus enabling Montres Journe SA and its manufacturing facility in the heart of Geneva to look to the future with confidence. This entry into the capital of independent brands is not a first for Chanel, which had done so with Bell&Ross and Romain Gauthier.

Deremi Ajidahun is partnering GMT in launching GMT Africa in December 2018, via a franchise for sub-Saharan Africa. Well known in the watch industry as both retailer and distributor of numerous luxury brands in Nigeria, the founder of the Hole 19 Luxury Group has been active for 20 years in the field of distribution, luxury, sport and publishing.


SEA

NAVITIMER 1

AIR

D LAN


Hot News FADI JAMIL

Certina DS Podium Chronograph 1/100 sec TECHNICAL INNOVATION meets watchmaking experience in these models. The complex 1/100th second display is combined with an ultra-precise Precidrive™ movement of the latest generation. The symbol of the turtle, used by Certina since the 1960s, stands for robustness and longevity. Today it can be found not just in the brand logo, but on every single Certina watch. On this quartz sports watch the turtle creates a lasting impression in elaborate 3-D on the case back. The display showing 1/100th seconds in real time not only allows for highly precise time measurements, it is also fascinating to watch. In order to preserve a watch’s energy reserves, the coloured 1/100th second hand stops after one minute, whilst the central stop second measures time unwaveringly, to exactly 1/100th of a second. Now available at Rivoli and Hour Choice stores across the UAE.

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Hot News FADI JAMIL

Citizen Unveils 100th Anniversary Limited Edition Collection CITIZEN, a name renowned for pioneering time-piece technology is marking its 100th anniversary this year, 2018, with the introduction of a limited edition special collection.

Keiji Kato, General Manager of Citizen Watches, Gulf comments: “For over ten decades we have been the proud

The leading Japanese watch manufacturer, which for ten

developers of original time-pieces that combine the most

decades has ambitiously set the pace for others to follow, has

refined and knowledgeable craftsmanship coupled with the

produced a unique series of men’s watches, all of which share

latest technological advancements. Our philosophy has always

a striking common feature; an eye-catching gold and black dial

been focused on consistent improvement and a driven attitude;

ring. This distinctive and original addition signifies “the moment

the belief that “Better Starts Now”.

when light is transformed into time”, an expression defining

“The 100th Anniversary Collection is a genuine celebration

the light-powered technology of Eco-Drive, which Citizen is very

of CITIZEN’s fantastic innovation and progression over the past

proud to have invented and which it continues to refine.

one hundred years, coupled with our acute attention to detail

Each of the models in the Anniversary collection, pays homage

and our endeavours to offer striking but functional watches.

to CITIZEN’s rich heritage, fusing design aesthetics with leading

The result is a very eclectic and contemporary collection which

technology and outstanding Japanese craftsmanship. There is

incorporates the advanced technology that has become our

a watch for everyone and every taste in the 100th Anniversary

hallmark. The limited edition status of the new collection offers

Collection: SATELLITE WAVE GPS SUPER TITANIUM includes

a time-piece to be truly treasured for many years to come.”

CC7005-16G and CC4004-58F, ECO-DRIVE BLUETOOTH includes BZ1044-08E, PROMASTER ECO-DRIVE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH

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AV0077-82E and Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m CA0716-19E

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The Collection can be purchased from Citizen Exclusive stores across UAE.


Le Richemond Geneva

DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS

Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com

#MYRichemond


Hot News FADI JAMIL

The Rado watch

at the top of the precision timing tree LENGNAU, SWITZERLAND – 2018. Swiss watch brand Rado has long

been known for its use of unconventional, high-tech materials and for pioneering their use in the world of watchmaking. In fact, it’s often said that – at Rado – the complication is on the outside.

The ‘Master of Materials’ label is one of which Rado is

incredibly proud, and the quest for innovative combinations of

materials continues as it strives to constantly chart new territory. Plasma high-tech ceramic is one such material whose use

Rado pioneered and is a form of modern alchemy. The plasma

carburising process allows the brand to create scratch-resistant high-tech ceramic with a metallic look without using metal. The

colour won’t fade over time. Since it first appeared in 1998, it has become both a mainstay of the collection and inextricably linked with the Rado story - as well as playing a starring role on the case of the new 2018 DiaMaster Petite Seconde Automatic COSC.

Only Rado has thought to combine scratch-resistant and

durable plasma high-tech ceramic with a material known for its elasticity: silicon. It is this natural, light and hard- wearing material placed at the heart of the new DiaMaster Petite Seconde

in the form of the hairspring that has helped this new model achieve its enviable COSC certification for precision.

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RADO IS THE AUTOMATIC CHOICE Obtaining COSC certification requires a movement to deviate

less than -4/+6 seconds over a 24-hour period, a feat so rare it is

only awarded to around 6% of Swiss-made timepieces. The silicon hairspring means the Petite Seconde automatic movement is more impervious to shocks and capable of greater accuracy over time,

features essential for maintaining the utmost precision in a world where everyday interference can affect the performance of a watch.

Not only is this watch in the top 6% of Swiss timepieces, it is

also a watch that is guaranteed to stand out for its classic good

looks. Featuring the typical clean, rounded 43 mm DiaMaster

case and the open, clear and readable dial the line is know for, this is pure Rado. Topped off with gold coloured detailing and a

soft leather crocodile print strap, in 2018 the DiaMaster Petite Seconde Automatic COSC is precisely what watch fans have been waiting for.


MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’

MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL


Hot News FADI JAMIL

Celebrating distinct moments

Grand opening of new boutique in Hong Kong HONG KONG/LUCERNE, SEPTEMBER 20, 2018 – Swiss luxury watch

said: “I am honored and proud to bring our 130-year family legacy

Hong Kong yesterday. The grand opening of the new monobrand

which marks our 130th anniversary, and also a personal highlight

manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer cel- ebrated distinct moments in boutique in the city’s vibrant Causeway Bay area was followed by an exclusive gala dinner at the Grand Hyatt. This event also saw

that I wouldn’t want to miss.”

the market launch of the Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral

MARKET LAUNCH OF A MASTERPIECE

of the Board of Directors Jörg G. Bucherer, CEO Sascha Moeri, and

DoublePeripheral, which features a truly unique movement, was

Bingbing, were in attendance at the exclusive event.

masterpiece was first introduced during Baselworld 2018 and

watch, whose sophisticated movement is a world first. Chairman renowned Chinese movie star and Global Brand Ambassador, Li

NEW MONOBRAND BOUTIQUE IN HONG KONG The new Hong Kong boutique was opened in partnership with

longtime retail partner Prince Jewellery & Watch. Located in

Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay, Carl F. Bucherer’s new boutique is ideally situated in the heart of the city’s luxury shopping area,

and offers visitors a new way to experience the world of Carl F. Bucherer. The interior is based on the latest design concept and exudes understated luxury accentuated by the golden, baroque-

inspired elements of the logo and the distinctive brand imagery,

which also reflects the cosmopolitan nature of Carl F. Bucherer’s

hometown of Lucerne, Switzerland. The new brand identity pays homage to the company’s ambition to continue growing while raising the profile of Lucerne as a cosmopolitan destination. GRAND OPENING CELEBRATION At the opening celebration, Jörg G. Bucherer, Sascha Moeri,

and Li Bingbing cut the ribbon to unveil the boutique, and it was declared officially open. Jörg G. Bucherer, representing the third

generation of the Bucherer family at the helm of the company,

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to this new boutique in Hong Kong. It is a milestone in this year,

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During the course of the evening, the first Manero Tourbillon

presented and its technical details were explained. This elegant

impressively demonstrates the brand’s ability to innovate. Its unique movement – the CFB T3000 – was developed entirely

in-house, and is the first of its kind in the world. It combines a peripheral automatic winding system and a peripherally mounted

tourbillon that ap- pears to float. This presentation marks the start of the global rollout of the exclusive and highly sought-after timepiece. It will initially be available at the new Hong Kong boutique from September, 20 2018.


TOURBILLON CHRONOMETER NO.36 ROYAL COLLECTION

Swiss Craftsmanship

www.arnoldandson.com


Hot News FADI JAMIL

Breguet Opens New Moscow Boutique

With a permanent exhibition of Historic Timepieces

ON THE 3RD OF OCTOBER 2018 the House of Breguet

inaugurates a brand new boutique in Moscow, near the Kremlin, in the prestigious shopping mall, GUM.

Under the high arches of the historical building, this new store has a dedicated space to exhibit Breguet heritage timepieces.

The House of Breguet is continually enriching its

portfolio of important Breguet timepieces with new

acquisitions for its Breguet Museum in Paris, located on the upper floor of its flagship boutique, on Place

VendĂ´me. It is the largest permanent exhibition of Breguet heritage pieces in the world.

The Paris museum displays over 100 prestigious

objects out of more than 200 heritage pieces in

possession of the House of Breguet, with the rest exhibited in various locations such as Zurich, Shanghai and Moscow.

The brilliant nature of the works of Abraham-Louis Breguet attracted illustrious personalities from its

founding. Today, Breguet is the only single watchmaker to be honoured by several of the world’s

premier museums, such as the Louvre, the Kremlin, The British Museum and the Swiss National Museum to name a few.

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FOR THE JOURNEY YOU’RE ON

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES . SAUDI ARABIA . KUWAIT . JORDAN . LEBANON TUMI.COM


Hot News FADI JAMIL

Mido establishes

its distinctive presence in Dubai with the opening of its store at the Dubai Mall 03 OCTOBER, DUBAI, UAE: Swiss watchmaker Mido furthered

essential values with some iconic architectural glories from

inauguration of their store at the Dubai Mall today, also marking

welcoming watch enthusiasts from the Middle East and around

its expansion into the Middle East region, with the official their 100th year anniversary since the brand’s inception in 1918. The official ribbon cutting ceremony took place in presence of

Franz Linder, the President of Mido together with Rivoli Group representatives and the famous Taiwanese actor and singer

the world in our new premise as Mido proudly celebrates its 100th

year and the opening of this fine store at Dubai Mall with our long-lasting partners Rivoli,” said Franz Linder.

In 2018, the brand marked its 100th anniversary by celebrating

George Hu.

the values that have formed its DNA for a century: timeless design,

at their rich history, but also presented a trilogy of limited editions

of the Baroncelli collection, inspired by the Rennes Opera House

Taking advantage of this jubilee, the brand not only looked back

based on the theme of “past, present and future” to illustrate its timelessness and to honor its watchmaking heritage. “Since

its

inception,

Mido’s

philosophy

has

combined

innovation, aesthetics and functionality. The brand shares these

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which it draws inspiration for its collections. We look forward to

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high quality materials, and technical innovation. A continuation

and its incredibly rich aesthetic appeal and technical mastery. The “Baroncelli Trilogy” unveiled by George Hu embody different key

periods of the brand’s history as well as its resolutely forwardlooking mindset: the years 1918, 2018 and 2118.


Hot News FADI JAMIL

The Baselworld chatbot gets

an upgrade with new functions for the 2019 edition

“Baselworld Live News”, a chatbot-based information channel in

Facebook Messenger, Telegram and Skype, which was launched in

2018, will be extensively upgraded for Baselworld 2019. In future, the chatbot will not only provide information about exhibitors’ innovations but will also offer additional services. It will now be

possible to buy tickets to Baselworld directly from the chatbot. As a “personal concierge”, it will also answer any questions about

Baselworld. In addition, it will also be accessible in other popular

messenger programmes such as WeChat or iMessage. Registered press representatives will be able to have information and pictures

of the exhibitors delivered to them in a separate area. As in the

past, the 2019 chatbot will continue to provide information every two hours about the most important innovations of the exhibitors

and events at Baselworld. Subscribers will also receive news sent directly to their smartphone during the year.

“With the introduction of the 2018 edition chatbot, Baselworld

certainly assumed a pioneering role. Based on the experiences from 2018, and the new technical capabilities, we now want to further

develop it into an intelligent show companion,” says Michel LorisMelikoff, Managing Director of Baselworld. “Our vision here is: no matter what question or requirement someone has regarding

Baselworld, with the chatbot they should receive a quick and uncomplicated answer or support.”

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Hot News FADI JAMIL

OMEGA gets set to

time the Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 AS THE WORLD’S BEST YOUNG ATHLETES compete at this year’s

Youth Olympic Games, OMEGA will be recording their dreams as the event’s Official Timekeeper. The stage is set at Buenos Aires

and modern innovation.

To complete the job at Buenos Aires 2018, OMEGA has

2018 for 241 events within 32 sports and OMEGA is ready for the

arrived with 80 tonnes of equipment, which includes 125 sports

back more than 80 years.

fibre optic cabling. To ensure every moment runs smoothly, there

challenge with a renowned timekeeping experience that dates Until October 18th, OMEGA will be behind the clock for every

single second, just as it has done at 28 Olympic Games since 1932. As the world’s premier sports timekeeper, the brand will be

50

deployed across all venues and will rely on its historic expertise

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scoreboards, 22 TV graphics generators and 60km of copper and

are also 235 timekeeping professionals and technicians who will be supported by 450 trained volunteers.


Hot News FADI JAMIL

Breathing new life into a 1940’s model dedicated to the Royal Air Force, Longines has created

The Longines Heritage Military In honour of its rich history, Longines has drawn inspiration

from a 1940’s watch model to create The Longines Heritage Military. True to the original lines of a timepiece designed for the British Royal Air Force, this sleek, reimagined watch belongs to a

mm. Its oversized winding crown evokes the original watch’s ease of handling.

The Longines Heritage Military also displays a silver, opaline

timeless style that has made the winged hourglass brand famous.

dial with a subtle mist of fine droplets in black paint. This process,

military watch has been hand sprayed with tiny black droplets,

and every piece unique while mimicking the oxidation found

To reproduce the original timekeeper’s patina, the dial on the making each and every piece unique.

Proud to celebrate its history and achievements, Longines is

expanding its Heritage collection with a reimagined military model from the 1940s. The Longines Heritage Military draws its inspiration from a watch created for members of the British Royal

a first for Longines and performed entirely by hand, makes each on the original. Despite housing an automatic movement, this

timekeeper is the only piece in Longines’ current collections that does not carry the “Automatic” label on its dial in order to preserve the spirit of the 1940s.

Remaining true to the watch worn by Stanley Turner and his

Air Force (RAF). Stanley Turner, a highly-decorated radiotelegraph

RAF colleagues, The Longines Heritage Military features a curved,

wore this model around his wrist. The watch once owned by Mr.

that houses the automatic movement (L888.2) comes with a green,

operator aboard an RAF aircraft during the Second World War, Turner was recovered and offered to the Swiss brand by a young

English collector, who inspired the current reissue. Thus, Longines is celebrating the 100th anniversary of the RAF in its own way.

With its minimalist design and 38.5 mm diameter, The Longines

Heritage Military flawlessly adheres to the refined aesthetic and

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spirit of the period timepiece which, at the time, measured 32.5

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fully polished bezel and box-form sapphire crystal. The steel casing

aged leather watch strap, and a Nato strap in the same shades.

Both versions of the strap are provided with each timepiece, along with the required replacement tool, all of which come in a case specially designed for the occasion.


Hot News FADI JAMIL

Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ DUBAI, UAE – 9TH OCTOBER 2018: In the post-war years of the late

(18,000bph) on each flank of Horological Machine N°9, visible

take root in the field of automotive design. The boxy, carriage-

sapphire crystal on the central body reveals the gearbox of the

1940s and 1950s, aerodynamic principles were just beginning to like shapes of previous decades were melting into something

more streamlined. At the same time, curvilinear forms became more prominent, carrying the immediate promise of power and

HM9 engine: a planetary differential that averages the output of both balance wheels to provide one stable reading of the time.

Sitting perpendicular to the rest of the HM9 engine is the dial

speed. The sophisticated computer modelling and wind-tunnel

indicating hours and minutes, driven by conical gears that ensure

designers were guided more by their aesthetic sense than by any

translation. The winding and setting crown is located on the rear

technology we have today were far-off dreams at that time – scientific precepts.

The result was some of the most beautiful man-made objects

ever created, epitomised by automobiles like the Mercedes-Benz

precise engagement even when motion is put through a 90° planar

of the central body, its deep fluting providing ergonomic grip as well as aesthetic coherence with the overall design.

Two satin-finished air scoops are mounted alongside the

W196 and 1948 Buick Streamliner. Other industries followed,

pods containing the oscillating balance wheels, evoking the

bodied, snub-nosed De Havilland Venom that patrolled Swiss

motor engines.

notably that of aviation, producing aircraft such as the sleekairspace for 30 years.

raised vents that allow continuous airflow to high-performance HM9 Flow treads the path first opened by the HM4 Thunderbolt

Presenting Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’, inspired by the

and

Reminiscent of a jet engine, a highly complex titanium case

grade 5 titanium case elements. However, HM9 goes beyond its

dynamic profiles of automotive and aviation mid-century design.

in alternating polished and satin finishes encloses an equally complex manual winding movement, developed fully in house. Independent twin balance wheels beat at a leisurely 2.5Hz

54

under elongated domes of sapphire crystal. A third pane of

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

subsequently

by

the

HM6

Space

Pirate,

utilising

a

geometrically complex combination of milled sapphire crystal and predecessors, redefining what was thought to be possible in case design – illustrated for example by a patented three-dimensional gasket ensuring water resistance.


Hot News FADI JAMIL

Two new grande heure minute watches illuminate the astrale collection by

Jaquet Droz

“PERFECTION IS ATTAINED not when there is nothing more to add but when there is nothing more to remove.” This quote from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry is an apt commentary on the two new

Thanks to a 68-hour power reserve this performance can be maintained for almost three days.

The minimalism of the two pieces is striking. Only the essential

Grande Heure Minute watches by Jaquet Droz. These exclusive

is left on the dial: hours, minutes and seconds. Discreet motion

homage to astronomy –the predecessor of watchmaking– the

masterful attention to the tiniest detail: dainty rhodium-plated

variations are the latest additions to the Astrale family. Paying

Astrale collection showcases a minimalist expression of the art of watchmaking in which only the essential remains.

The two latest Grande Heure Minute watches are no

exception. Each is housed in a 43 mm steel case and powered by a high precision self-winding movement: the Jaquet Droz 1169.Si caliber. “Si” refers here to silicon, a key element in contemporary watchmaking that is expertly put to use in this

work simply tracks the minutes. Jaquet Droz demonstrates here its studs are employed as five-minute markers, introducing a barely

perceptible relief, while a rhodium-plated ring lends the motion

work a subtle sheen. This composition inspired by the stars is punctuated by the brand’s signature off-centered seconds hand at 9 o’clock. Ringed by an off-centered circle, the hand suggests the revolution of a celestial body in a nod to the Astrale collection.

These Grande Heure Minute are available in a choice of a slate gray

caliber. Hard-wearing, rust-proof, non-magnetic and unaffected

dial with blued hands, or a silver-plated dial with rhodium-plated

and pallet lugs with stellar longevity and astronomical precision.

dreams of galaxies and the immeasurable poetry of the infinite.

by temperature fluctuations, silicon endows the balance spring

56

A minimalist tribute to astronomy and an ode to the poetry of the stars, these two latest variations on the Grande Heure Minute shine a new light on the Astrale collection by Jaquet Droz.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

hands. This duo is a sleek new tribute to the magic of the night skies,


OPEN TO THE PUBLIC THURSDAY 17 JANUARY Registration at sihh.org

29

th

SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE

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Editor’s Pick MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Black really suits you ! JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Polaris Automatic Devotees of black and of vintage style, this threehand watch inspired by the 1968 Polaris Memovox watch is for you. Its unusual two crowns and sunburst dial make it particularly appealing.

60

FABERGÉ

EBERHARD & CO.

Visionnaire Chronograph

Scafograf GMT

Dynamique

The Black Sheep

The orange touch accentuates the sporty nature of this ceramic and black DLC-coated titanium chronograph featuring an innovative design. Don’t look for counters, as the chronograph hands are in the center.

Dare to be different with a total-black three time-zone watch in PVD-coated steel with a rubber strap. This 500-piece limited edition is contemporary, sophisticated and eminently useful for travel.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

BELL & ROSS

BR03-92 Nightlum With its cockpit clock design and its indications coated with ultra-phosphorescent green Super-LumiNova®, this watch targeting maximum clarity is intended for pilot’s watch enthusiasts.


Whether a little dress or a tuxedo, it’s well known that black lends a touch of understated and distinguished elegance to an outfit. The same goes for black watches, paired in some models with a sporty and contemporary spirit. For both men and women, a black watch is a must-have. It’s the October theme of the month for the Watch Photo Awards.

TAG HEUER Formula One Lady

ALPINA Comtesse Horological Smartwatch

RICHARD MILLE

BULGARI

RM 71-01 Tourbillon

Serpenti Spiga Céramique

Ivan/stock.adobe.com

Automatique Talisman

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 61


Editor’s Pick BRICE LECHEVALIER

Blue tourbillon Blue was the first theme of the Watch Photo Awards. With varying degrees of intensity, it adorns exceptional timepieces equipped with the emblematic – and perpetually reinvented – tourbillon mechanism.

ARTYA

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Butterfly Set Tourbillon Unique Piece

Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS

DE BETHUNE

Maximus

DB28 Steel Wheels

Delphotostock/stock.adobe.com

KERBEDANZ

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Editor’s Pick CLOÉ MUGNY

Multi-function apertures Apertures are a key feature of luxury watches. They serve a wide variety of purposes and sometimes even end up taking the place of hands on certain dials ! As well as displaying the date, day of the week, month, moon phase and other horological complications, they sometimes simply show the hours and/or minutes.

URBAN JÜRGENSEN Reference 2240 RG

BREITLING

H. MOSER & CIE.

Navitimer Day & Date

Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept

EMILE CHOURIET

Xiongmao/stock.adobe.com

Héritier à Guichets

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 63


Cover Story FADI JAMIL

Cyrus

Art meets technology, and innovation combines with design: the result sees high-end watchmaking masterpieces, such as the new Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon CASE : New redesigned case made up of 26 parts, Thickness:

18.65 mm Available in the following materials: Grade 5 titanium with black DLC treatment / 4N 18K rose gold / Two-tone in 4N 18K rose gold and grade 5 titanium with black DLC finish BEZEL: Titanium black DLC on the titanium and two-tone versions, and in 4N 18K rose gold on the gold version DIAMETER : 44 mm excluding the crowns FUNCTIONS: Jumping retrograde hours on the left side of the dial. Sweeping retrograde minutes on the right side of the dial. Seconds on the tourbillon cage with blocks graduated at 5 second intervals, and 60 seconds highlighted in red. Power reserve displayed through a sphere set at 12 o’clock MOVEMENT : In-house manufactured hand-winding movement, Number of parts of the complete movement: 344, Number of jewels: 53, Frequency: 3 Hz, Vibrations per hour: 21,600, Power reserve: more than 100 hours, Two parallel barrels with black lacquered ratchet-wheels with the Cyrus logo DIAL : Brass base finished with “microbillage” and treated with black DLC, decorated with small raised triangles in the middle, Central tourbillon enhanced by a three-dimensional bridge comprising two brass arches with a gold “microbillé” finish, or black DLC treatment, depending on the version, with bevelled, polished edges.

F

ine mechanical watchmaking is an artform in its own

With the very first glance at the KLEPCYS VERTICAL

right. Art is about the freedom to create. It is about

TOURBILLON, the eye is instantly drawn to the original, three-

originality and the spirit of innovation expressed by

dimensional architecture of the dial. It is dominated by an arched

artists in bringing their ideas to life. The new KLEPCYS VERTICAL TOURBILLON presented by CYRUS at Baselworld 2018 interprets this philosophy to perfection.

vertical bridge, decorated with “microbillage” and featuring bevelled, polished edges which, depending on the version, is in gold or black DLC. Its exclusive shape is purposely designed to

Enthusiasm and passion underpin the work which goes into every

blend harmoniously with the symmetrical lines of the timepiece

CYRUS creation, along with the desire to explore new technological

and to highlight the central tourbillon, that performs a complete

frontiers. Its unique contemporary design adheres to the tenets of

rotation in one minute.

traditional watchmaking and the outstanding quality it demands.

Painstaking studies by the technical team at CYRUS on the

CYRUS is an independent Swiss Manufacture based at Le Locle. Led

positions of the watch over the course of 24 hours revealed that

by Jean-François Mojon, one of the greatest and most inspirational

the 90° angle of the tourbillon cage allows it to remain vertical in

master watchmakers of our time, CYRUS boasts production which

most cases. When set at this angle, the cage containing the entire

is carried out entirely in-house. The result sees masterpieces such

regulating mechanism (balance wheel, escapement and pallet

as the truly creative, original KLEPCYS VERTICAL TOURBILLON,

fork) rotates on itself to offset the negative effects gravity has on

incorporating outstanding technical performance.

the balance wheel more effectively. The result sees timekeeping

Complications are fascinating, and the Tourbillon takes centre

made even more precise.

stage in the new model. For the first time in watchmaking,

Encased in its iconic cushion-shaped case with two crowns –

CYRUS has set it in the middle of the dial on a vertical axis. In

slightly redesigned to increase the display space while reducing

so doing, it breaks all the rules that have traditionally put it at

size and thickness – the time is read off in two separate parts

horizontally at 6 o’clock.

which highlight the symmetry of the central axis.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 65


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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


To the right, a gold or silver pointer (depending on the model)

which sets it apart in the watchmaking world. It encompasses a high-

reads off the sweeping retrograde minutes on the arch, running

performance hand-wound movement made up of no less than 344

from 0 to 60 at 5-second intervals.

parts. Designed and made entirely in the CYRUS ateliers, it houses

The left-hand arch indicates the retrograde jumping hours in

two parallel barrels, offering a power reserve of more than 4 days.

Arabic numerals, whilst the seconds are displayed in the centre,

The sapphire crystal case back provides a fascinating journey

and can be read off the tourbillon cage thanks to small blocks

into the details of this handmade calibre. The skilled design

engraved with Arabic numerals - on a scale of 5 - in white, with

put into the bridges reveals the tourbillon and part of the gears,

the exception of 60 seconds, which is in bright red.

displaying the high-quality decoration of the raised and polished

The slightly concave dial with “microbillage” and black DLC

sunray pattern, with its slightly curved form. This contrasts with

finish is embellished with a geometric motif with small engraved

the satin-finish “microbillé” parts. The two barrels are clearly in

triangles. At 12 o’clock, between the two arches of the tourbillon

view, thanks to the black lacquered ratchet-wheels bearing the

bridge, a sphere with a 5mm diameter stands out. This reveals

Maison’s logo. To finish, the case back is secured with customised

the power reserve, totalling over 100 hours when fully charged.

screws bearing the Cyrus symbol.

To achieve a balanced effect, the CYRUS logo is set at 6 o’clock. All

The Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon is available in three executions,

of which is protected by a domed and tailor-made sapphire crystal

with 38 pieces issued for each: a grade 5 titanium case with black

with anti-reflective surface treatment on the in and outside.

DLC finish for a sporty look, a more sophisticated 4N 18K rose gold

The case, comprising no less than 26 elements including the bezel, case middle, back and lugs, is intricately decorated with

version, and a two-tone model in 4N 18K rose gold, combined with a black DLC titanium bezel.

both brushed and polished parts, creating a stunning effect. It has

The watch is completed with a black alligator leather strap with a

a diameter of 44 mm excluding the two crowns, which are set at

folding DLC clasp for the versions with a titanium and two-tone case.

3 and 9 o’clock. These crowns are not just there for looks: both

The Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon in rose gold has a brown alligator

are functioning. The one at 3 o’clock adjusts time and winds the

leather strap, with a deployant buckle in the same material.

movement, whilst the hour can rapidly be corrected by pushing the crown set at 9. This refined timepiece has a daring, futuristic style all of its own,

For enthusiasts and admirers of real mechanical watchmaking with complications, the new Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon by Cyrus is a must-have without which no collection is complete.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 67


UAE MANSOUR JEWELLERS (ABU DHABI) - 02 626 4260 | MANSOUR JEWELLERS (DUBAI) - 04 228 1115 PARIS GALLERY (DUBAI) - 04 330 8289 | LEVANT (DUBAI) - 04 434 1227


QATAR - BLUE SALON - 04 446 6111 KUWAIT - TRAFALGAR GENERAL TRADING - 188 1188 SAUDI ARABIA - AL GHAZALI TRADING RIYADH - 011 474 4000 | JEDDAH - 012 647 3000 | KHOBAR - 013 898 0040


Technique DAVID CHOKRON

Sporty chic 70

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

rules


ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL

Datejust 41 ref. 126300

PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS ref. 5711

While the sporty chic watch with all-steel case and bracelet is the most sought-after and indeed most coveted type of model, successfully pulling off this seemingly commonplace exercise involves a number of pitfalls.

I

t represents a fundamental category in its own right. The all-steel sports timepiece, exuding a resolutely active aura of elegance, embodies watchmaking versatility. It encom-

passes some of the most sought-after and enduring models of all time. It is instantly recognizable by its gray exterior, its three hands teamed with a date display, as well as its air of being an obvious choice that comes from being found on so many different wrists. It is designed to be entirely at home on all occasions, apart from particularly extreme examples. It thus meets the vast majority of needs, apart from those implied by particularly formal evening events or super-intense sports activities. Even more surprisingly, it transitions seamlessly from men’s to women’s wrists, whether because of its moderate size or its ability to appear in various interpretations. All of which means it’s easy to see why each brand wants to have its own. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

71


BULGARI Octo Solotempo

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK ref. 15400ST

HERCULEAN ENDEAVORS Nonetheless, the task of creating a watch simple enough to suit every circumstance, robust enough to withstand all manner of trials – and above all subtly designed to find its way through GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato 42 mm

the ages – is truly Herculean. The process is in fact so daunting that only a few prove truly successful, often becoming true icons produced for decades and only discreetly modified as time goes by. The first among them – both chronologically and in terms of sales volume – is doubtless the Datejust by Rolex. Launched in 1945, it single-handedly embodies a whole swathe of watchmaking history. Sustainably driven by the brand’s policy of providing numerous variations, it has been interpreted through several sizes, along with dozens of dial colors and bezel versions. The second wave hit during the 1970s, with two models that were more opulent and more expensive, both created by the brilliant and perpetually busy designer of the era, Gérald Genta. The Nautilus by Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak have a great deal in common and are yet sufficiently different to have each

MAURICE LACROIX Aikon Automatic

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

found its place, its own vein and its collectors. 


VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Overseas 5400V

PAUL O’NEIL Rédacteur en chef de WorldTempus.com Chief Editor of WorldTempus.com

CHALLENGERS Then comes a third category that is both more crowded and more heterogenous : that of brands wanting their share of watchmaking’s most buoyant

D

avid’s article confirms that my preference for all-steel watches puts me firmly in the mainstream of horological tastes. My watch choices

are intended to suit any occasion and the fictional analogy

segment. Girard-Perregaux has its Laureato, reborn with a fresh dynamic

I always use is James Bond and his Omega Seamaster, not

and numerous variations. At the other end of the price spectrum, Maurice

least because this is the very watch I wear most frequently. If

Lacroix is making a strong push with its Aikon Automatic, featuring an

the watch doesn’t look out of place whether it’s worn with a

exceptional price to finishing quality ratio that constitutes a major asset.

tuxedo in the Casino Royale or during the end-of-days battle

Vacheron Constantin has just given a new lease on life to its Overseas.

at Skyfall, then my reckoning is that it won’t look too bad on

Finally, Bulgari is off to a flying start with the last-gen Octo, whose rel-

me either. It’s also the perfect definition of the “sporty-chic”

evance will need to be confirmed over the long term.

in this article’s title. A quick glance through the copious archives at WorldTempus, however, shows that sporty chic

DETAILS

covers a vast swathe of horological territory.

As is often the case in watchmaking, everything comes down to details. Achieving a perfect balance between wearability, attractiveness and durability depends on two little known prerequisites. The first is a stable and visible identity, which implies that the watch must be entirely different from a brand’s other lines. The second is that an all-steel watch must have a distinctive bracelet that is an integral part of its identity. Over the years, a fanciful design, or one too firmly rooted in a given era to find its way through the ages, adversely affects the relevance of the model as a whole. It is thus hardly surprising that so few of these highly popular watches manage to retain that degree of widespread favor.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

73


Interview BRICE LECHEVALIER

“Luminor Due and Submersible will become collections in their own right”

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Jean-Marc Pontroué CEO Panerai

You have just taken the helm of Panerai and done a world tour of its subsidiaries : could you share your first impressions ? Panerai remains a strong brand with a story we can continue writing. It has been part of the Richemont group since 1997 and is well organized, able to rely on its subsidiaries, more than 80 boutiques and one of the world’s finest retail networks. In immersing myself in the company, I have been lucky enough to benefit from the feedback of hundreds of people, retailers and journalists as well as Paneristi. Panerai is fortunate to have this group of enthusiasts in many countries, who meet and talk about the brand in an extremely passionate way. This community provides a wealth of commentary that must be analyzed, because of course we cannot do everything. The outside vision I bring helps us pinpoint certain areas that deserve accelerated development, whereas others should perhaps be given less importance : this is all part of a brand’s normal evolution. Doesn’t this community expect more innovation from Panerai ? That’s one of the areas to be amplified. Panerai is an innovative brand that already has its own Ideas Laboratory and we plan to give it fresh impetus. Its Italian identity must be conveyed first of all through creativity, and notably through technical innovation in terms of both movements and materials. The disruptive side of its nature that put Panerai on the map of this industry must be reinforced, as it was with the BMG-Tech, Carbotech and Bronzo materials that had a strong impact when they were introduced last year. I wish to perpetuate this legend, as exemplified in the Lab-ID launched last year. Have the recently launched slimmer Luminor Due models proved as successful as expected ? Definitely. Their success stems from the fact that they are a means for Panerai to address a new client base, generating a high acquisition rate among women, young people and Asian customers who had not so far taken much notice of the brand. The Luminor Due will in fact become a line in its own right. Panerai had previously offered only two lines – Luminor and Radiomir – that have now been split in two so as to clarify the range now comprising four collections : Radiomir, Luminor, Luminor Due and Submersible (previously part of the Luminor line). Special emphasis will be placed on the Submersible.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 75


LUMINOR DUE 38 (PAM755-1600)

What are your priorities for 2019 ? The product side of things is very important, as you will have grasped. Nonetheless, with an iconic brand such as Panerai, there is relatively little room for maneuver since we mustn’t destroy anything and the evolution must be respectful of the past while remaining subtle so as to ensure continuity. In p ­ arallel, it’s important to rekindle the magic of our two emblematic destinations : Florence and Neuchâtel. With its boutique featuring a distinctive architectural context, Florence embodies the history of Panerai and we will introduce several special series dedicated to this location. In Neuchâtel, we are going to add a theatrical touch to the Manufacture by creating a lounge area, as well as offering an authentic experience with a crash-test model enabling clients to see for themselves how robust our watches are when they fall. We also plan to make more of our Ideas Laboratory with a secret room and create our own Hall of Fame with all the celebrities who wear our watches – something Panerai has never highlighted. All this untapped Panerai potential will be leveraged. Is Panerai’s maritime DNA still as powerful as ever ? The maritime theme definitely remains a priority in terms of products, as well as for our nautical ambassador, the classic yacht Eilean. The sailboat will continue competing on the classic race circuits in the Caribbean and the Mediterranean, such as the Panerai Classic Yacht Challenge, as well as meeting the public by docking in places such as Miami, London and St. Barts. Will you have to choose between classic wooden sailing yachts and the high-tech America’s Cup speed machines that you also sponsor ? Fortunately not, because Eilean is to Florence what an America’s Cup race is to Neuchâtel. We will in fact soon be announcing new partnerships with spectacular races. These regattas are platforms that serve as sources of inspiration for new materials and new experiences. Panerai will draw on its history as represented by the boutique in Florence, the Eilean and the Radiomir, while enriching it with all that must drive the future of the brand and its creativity with regard to our watches.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium. Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler. Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter. Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it


Events

BVLGARI Lvcea Tubogas

Skeleton, Ladies’

BRICE LECHEVALIER

GPHG 2018

The favorites are lining up The jury has chosen 72 watches in 12 categories. Bvlgari, Ulysse Nardin and Vacheron Constantin have 12 models selected between them.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


ULYSSE NARDIN

Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel, Chronometry

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

CHANEL

Historiques Triple calendrier 1942, Men’s

Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel, Jewellery

W

hat are the most striking facts in this 18th edition of

attracted record participation, with representatives from all the

the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève so far, before

major watch groups, as well as a number of independent Mai-

the prize-giving ceremony to be held on Friday No-

sons. Creations from both large and small brands are thus vying

vember 9th in the Théâtre du Léman ? Firstly, that the Foundation

with each other within a unifying spirit designed to enhance the

of the GPHG has created a new Challenge category for watches

international reputation of an industry that consistently pushes

with a retail price under CHF 4,000 ; and secondly, signs of strong

technical and artistic boundaries, while displaying impressive vi-

mobilization within the watch industry. As Carine Maillard, di-

tality.” Who will carry off the much sought-after “Aiguille d’Or”

rector of the GPHG, explains : “This 18th edition of the GPHG has

Grand Prix, the ultimate GPHG trophy ? 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 79


TAG HEUER

Monaco Gulf, Sports

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Mechanical exeption

ZENITH

Defy Zero G, Chronometry

80

Naturally, when a brand succeeds in having watches nomi-

lery. This year, only one other brand – Bovet – has been nominated

nated in three, four or five different categories, its CEO’s chances

at once in feminine (Ladies’ category) and masculine (Mechani-

of being called to the platform to accept a prize are significantly

cal Exceptional category) selections. Longines and Seiko also have

higher. Such is the case for Vacheron Constantin (in the Men’s,

two pre-selected watches and are competing in the same two cat-

Men’s Complication and Artistic Crafts categories) ; Ulysse Nar-

egories (Challenge and “Petite Aiguille”), as are TAG Heuer and

din (in the Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, “Petite Aiguille”

Zenith (Chronometry and Sports). In parallel, five other brands

and Sports categories) ; and Bvlgari (in the Ladies’ Complication,

have convinced the experts to select two of their watches : Cha-

Men’s Complication, Ladies’, Mechanical Exception and Jewellery

nel (Ladies’ and Jewellery), Girard-Perregaux (Men’s Complication

categories !). All of these three brands had already won awards

and Mechanical Exception), H. Moser & Cie (Men’s Complica-

last year. On the feminine side, Chaumet also stands out with

tion and Men’s), Piaget (Ladies’ and Jewellery) and Van Cleef &

a selection in three categories (Ladies’ Complication, Ladies’ and

Arpels (Ladies’ Complication and Jewellery). All these brands have

Artistic Crafts). The potency of Bvlgari’s appeal is particularly

already been honored by the GPHG jury in previous editions, apart

impressive, since the entire jury has selected it on masculine as

from Bovet whose exceptional creations are nonetheless selected

well as feminine territories, in both Fine Watchmaking and Jewel-

each year. Perhaps its time has come ?

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Focus

BREGUET

DAVID CHOKRON

Pure Breguet Classique 5157 BR CASE : 18K rose gold, transparent sapphire

crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 38 x 5.4mm MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding, ultra-thin Caliber 502.3, 22K gold rotor, silicon balance-spring and pallet-lever, 45h power reserve, 2.4mm thick FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : silvered white gold hand-guilloché dial, blued opentipped hands STRAP : alligator leather, rose gold pin buckle

Breguet

Breguet naturally stands for complicated mechanics, just as one would expect for a Maison with a founder who invented and produced so many multi-indication models. But Breguet also stands for a certain aesthetic, a fact that is never more clearly apparent than when it is given pride of place. In the case of the Classique 5157, the only indications are hours and minutes, enabling the full range of brand codes to be expressed to the full, without even a seconds hand to clutter its appearance. Elegance speaks volumes and its vocabulary is all about dimensions – starting with the modest 37mm diameter epitomizing this model’s inherent discretion. The latter quality is confirmed by its modest 5.4mm height enabling it to slide smoothly under a shirt sleeve, gently embracing the wrist. This elegance is conveyed through a classically smart aura that also stems from its finishing. The dial is entirely engine-turned using an antique rose engine, operated and adjusted by hand. The motif engraved in the silvered solid gold plate is a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern. The blued hands are the Breguet type, another name for the Maison’s signature open-tipped à pomme variety. The finely fluted caseband is made of rose gold, a warm tone which, after white gold and yellow gold, now envelops the slimmest and simplest of all Breguet watches.

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CHAUMET

DAVID CHOKRON

The Dandy appears in all-new attire

A dandy does things his own way. He dresses differently, and in doing so, flaunts a unique mindset. He also regularly updates his wardrobe. The Dandy by Chaumet also does things differently and is fresh back from a trip to the tailor. Since its creation 15 years ago, the most elegant men’s watch from the Maison has appeared in different shapes with a proud sense of natural ease that speaks volumes about its personality. Dandy is a cushion-shaped model in a size that make it a square with softened edges. It also features wire-type lugs bearing large visible screws. Its dial is designed to stand out from the crowd, since the Dandy has indeed always featured vertical ‘Bayadère’ stripes adorned with a raised motif. For this new season and in this new outfit, Dandy has shifted the stripes closer to the center and topped them with a long metal line running close to the hour-markers around the rim. Inside it beats an ultrathin Zenith movement driving small seconds appearing at 9 o’clock, an equally unusual position. The Dandy is thus once again distinguished by several novel features, including its 8.5mm height that sets the perfect finishing touch to its uniquely trim and perfectly groomed appearance.

Chaumet Dandy CASE : stainless steel, transparent sapphire crystal and

caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 38mm, 8.5mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Zenith Elite caliber, 50-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : sunburst blue with Bayadère stripes, batontype hands STRAP : blue alligator leather with stainless steel pin buckle

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DAVID CHOKRON

Chanel Code Coco CASE : stainless steel, transparent sapphire caseback, water-

resistant to 30m SIZE : 38 x 21mm MOVEMENT : quartz FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : black, set with a princess-cut diamond BRACELET : steel and black ceramic, steel rotating clasp

Merging territories While there are a number of connections between fashion and watchmaking, authentic bridges between these territories are few and far between. Although Chanel has been expressing itself through timepieces for over 20 years, it had never yet done so through proclaiming such intimate ties with its couture culture. Code Coco does not in fact embody this bridge in terms of its name, even though it is rare that the founder’s name be so deliberately used. In actual fact, Code Coco is all about the clasp : that of the 2.55 handbag worn by generations of women and now an unmistakable brand signature. Chanel has used the exact same version – in terms of shape, material and mode of operation – to fasten the Code Coco bracelet. That being said, this watchband is far more than just a means of attaching the timepiece to the wrist, since the clasp is placed directly above the watch hands, and just below a diamond. This tiny metal element – whose color and brilliance are picked up on the bezel and the edge of the bracelet – actually crosses right through the dial. The importance given to the clasp highlights the deliberate intention to consider the bracelet as the essence of the watch. Composed of tiny articulated black ceramic squares, it provides a pattern, a presence and an identity. The Code Coco is thus worn like a bracelet, fastens like a handbag and serves as a watch.

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EBERHARD & CO.

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Nuvolari Legend CASE : stainless steel, glareproofed sapphire crystal, sapphire caseback secured by eight screws,

water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 39.5mm and 43mm, 13.5mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding Eberhard & Co. caliber built on a Valjoux 7750 base movement, personalized with an engraving of the model name and a stylized depiction of the Alfa Romeo type 12/C FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, tachymeter DIAL : black, luminescent Arabic numerals and hour-markers, chronograph minutes and hours counters at 12 and 6 o’clock respectively, spiral-shaped central tachymeter scale in km/h WRISTBAND : vintage leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, clasp personalized with Tazio Nuvolari’s tortoise lucky charm

Honoring the “campionissimo” Since the time of its launch, the Tazio Nuvolari collection has been enriched with several chronographs inspired by the Italian champion’s victories and feats, including the Grand Prix or Vanderbilt Cup models – the latter referring to the race he won in 1936 in New York at the wheel of his Alfa Romeo Type C 36. In 2015, the 336 Limited Edition with dual-time display honored the world speed record (336 km/h) that the talented driver Tazio Novolari set in 1935 on a highway near Florence. The latest Tazio Nuvolari, announced in February at the Salon Rétromobile classic car show in Paris, acknowledges the legendary stature of the “Mantovane Volante” (flying man of Mantua). Available in two sizes, fitted with a choice of aged leather strap or steel bracelet, this vintage-look timepiece with its large luminescent Arabic numerals features an original spiral-type display of the tachymeter scale in the center of the black dial. There are numerous references to the “Maestro”, including his initials on the dial, an Alfa Romeo Type 12C from the Scuderia Ferrari engraved in gold on the back… and a tortoise on the wristband clasp. The latter is a nod to a gold chelonia tortoise that the driver was gifted by the poet Gabriele d’Annunzio and which became his lucky charm, bearing the dedication : “To the fastest man in the world, the slowest animal.”

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FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Tourbillon Manufacture Perpetual Calendar CASE : 18K rose gold, gold-plated or polished stainless steel,

convex sapphire crystal, transparent caseback, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber FC-975, 38h power reserve), silicon escapement FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap years, tourbillon DIAL : openworked with hand-polished hands (or Clous de Paris hobnail motif in the gold-plated version) STRAP : Brown alligator leather with pin buckle or folding clasp LIMITED SERIES : 30 in rose gold (88 in the three other versions)

Thirty years

young 2018 sees Frédérique Constant celebrating three decades of existence on a resolutely euphoric note. A keen advocate of affordable luxury, the brand has steadily and successfully ploughed its own furrow and continues to display impressive technological performance – whether expressed through Swiss Made smartwatches or Fine Watchmaking brought within reach of (almost) all budgets. Its oft-patented proprietary movements have been champions of understatement since 2004. After the in-house development of its first tourbillon ten years ago and its first perpetual calendar two years ago, the Maison now unveils the Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture. This self-winding watch features a silicon escapement and tourbillon cage equipped with the patented innovative ‘smart screw’ system designed to ensure it is perfectly balance. This distillation of expertise naturally comes in a 30-piece rose gold limited series, as well as in three other 88-piece stainless steel or gold-plated versions, with or without an openworked dial. All of them carry spectacularly reasonable price tags…

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Focus HERMÈS

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Arceau Chrono Titane CASE : beadblasted grade 2 titanium,

glareproofed sapphire crystal, waterresistant to 30m SIZE : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding movement made in Switzerland, 42h power reserve, 28,800 vph FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date DIAL : galvanic black, white transferred Arabic numerals and minute circle, rhodium-plated and red hands STRAPS : natural Barenia calf, embossed black Barenia calf

Leather meets titanium One might be tempted to believe that the Arceau gets an annual facelift, so impressively does this dynamic forty-year-old make light of the passing years. Hermès’ most classic collection, designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, draws its inspiration from the brand’s roots in the equestrian world, from which it derves its characteristic stirrup-shaped single lug at the top of the case. While the original elegance and classicism are still evident in the round case of the Arceau Chrono Titane with its slim bezel, domed push-pieces and crown, as well as the sloping Arabic numerals adorning the dial, the predominant vibe is sporty and contemporary. Firstly, because it is a chronograph, and even though the three counters remain relatively discreet in terms of their size and their modest contrast with the black of the dial, their association with the large red central seconds hand confirms its nature as a sports watch. Secondly, because the superior grade 2 titanium of the case is robust, corrosion-resistant and lightweight, and endows this Arceau with a modern look along with technological advantages. The Parisian saddler’s signature is clearly perceptible in the two straps made from Barenia calfskin – a luxurious leather made from young animals bred in Alsace – in natural or black versions, crafted by artisans of the Hermès strap workshops in Switzerland.

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BRICE LECHEVALIER

Hublot Big Bang Collège du Léman CASE : satin-brushed steel, ceramic

bezel with titanium screws, resin lateral inlays, sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistant to 100m DIAMETER : 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber HUB4100, 42h power reserve), 252 components FUNCTIONS : chronograph, hours, minutes, seconds, dates DIAL : sunburst satin-brushed blue, gold-plated hourmarkers, luminescent gold-plated hands, Collège du Léman crest STRAP : blue alligator leather, stainless steel folding clasp 20-PIECE LIMITED NUMBERED SERIES

Time for

knowledge

If all the schools in the world were to choose a watchmaking partner, or if all watch brands were to associate with schools, the watch industry would be able to ensure generations of attachment to its values. All this within a context where some pupils rarely read anything other than their smartphone… Although somewhat elitist, the Hublot and Collège du Léman joint initiative thus deserves credit for creating a Big Bang bearing the colors of the prestigious international school on the outskirts of Geneva. Enthroned in a display case at the entrance to the establishment, the self-winding satin-brushed stainless steel chronograph is a limited edition of which two are intended for the school’s valedictorians. The eye-catching blue of its ceramic bezel is also picked up in the lateral composite resin inlays, the rubber inserts on the crown and pushers, as well as extending to the crocodile leather strap. The other dominant color of the school crest – red – enlivens the luminescent hands and hour-markers, gold-rimmed like the Collège du Léman initials appearing at the top of the dial at 12 o’clock. The last golden touch appears in the strap stitching. It is too soon to find out whether children or parents will form the majority of those slipping this timepiece onto their wrist…

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JAQUET DROZ

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Grande Seconde Skelet-One CASE : black ceramic, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 41.5mm, 12.48mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding

skeleton Jaquet Droz Caliber 2663 SQ, black coating, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, double barrel, 68h power reserve, 28,800 vph FUNCTIONS : offset hours and minutes, offset large seconds DIAL : sapphire, black ceramic chapter ring STRAPS : rollededge hand-crafted black fabric, black ceramic folding clasp with black PVD treatment

Maximizing

light

To mark its 280th anniversary, Jaquet Droz is introducing a first within its Grande Seconde collection, of which the two off-centered hours and minutes dials, together with the large seconds display, form the figure 8. The new feature of the Grande Seconde Skelet-One lies in the use of sapphire in a skeleton-type composition, the purpose being to allow light to flood into the watch. To achieve this, Jaquet Droz has completely openworked the plate and the gold oscillating weight, while eliminating the casing ring. The use of sapphire for the offset dials enables an entirely transparent view of the multi-layered JD 2663 SQ skeleton movement. Totally translucent and bearing only discreet markings swept over by an extremely slender hand, the disconcerting large seconds disk enables the gaze to plunge into the inner workings of the movement below. Surrounding the two dials is the ample space characteristic of all Grande Seconde models, to which the tapering blackened bridges of the Skelet-One lend a decidedly contemporary structure. Alongside this 41.5mm black ceramic version, the Grande Seconde Skelet-One also comes in white or red gold variations with a 41mm case and leather strap.

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Polaris Chronograph CASE : stainless steel, water-resistant to

100m, sapphire caseback SIZE : 42mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding JaegerLecoultre Caliber 751, 28,800 vph, 65h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, tachymeter scale DIAL : black, sunburst, grained and opaline treatment STRAP/BRACELET : leather strap or stainless steel bracelet

Revisiting an

icon

Polaris is a name that sends a shiver down the spine of watch collectors. The older generation will remember that the Polaris Memovox was launched in 1968. This diver’s watch with its ‘voice of memory’ alarm function rang out to warn divers that their immersion time was up. Fifty years later, the Polaris is surfacing again with a new collection of several models with a resolutely sporty and elegant character, spiced up with a vintage touch. The Polaris chronograph does not descend as such from diver’s watches, but rather from dashboard clocks and instruments developed by Jaeger, as confirmed by the tachymeter scale and the two 12-hour and 30-minute counters. This inherently sporty watch nonetheless features refined finishing such as the hand-brushed and polished surfaces of the stainless steel case topped by a thin bezel, along with the three sunburst, grained and opaline dial finishes. The highly legible and luminescent elongated trapeze-shaped hour-markers, along with the 12 and 6 o’clock Arabic numerals, are reminiscent of the historical Polaris. Purists will be thrilled with the black Polaris Chronograph, and Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a navy-blue dial for the most daring wearers. Interchangeable stainless steel bracelets and patinated leather straps provide a chance to play with the contemporary or vintage spirit of the watch.

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LOUIS VUITTON

CLOÉ MUGNY

Tambour Essential Grey GMT / Chronograph CASE : polished stainless steel, water-resistant

to 100m SIZE : 41.5mm / 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, date / hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date DIAL : sunburst anthracite STRAPS : interchangeable straps equipped with patented Louis Vuitton system

True to

itself

Born in the age of the Millennials, the Tambour watch has been perpetually reinvented, while remaining true to its DNA and to the aesthetic codes of the Maison. In 2018, it appears in the shape of two new self-winding models respectively equipped with chronograph or GMT functions. As their name implies, the Tambour Essential Grey watches are attired in various shades of this color : with a polished steel case (44mm in diameter for the chronograph version and 41.5mm for the GMT model) framing a sunburst anthracite dial. The GMT version bears black hands (cut-out in the center and filled with Super-LumiNova® towards the hour-markers) to display travel time and a large red hand for home time. This play on contrasts is picked up on the chronograph equipped with red hands to indicate the chronograph seconds, minutes and hours. While different from a functional standpoint, these two timepieces feature a similar aesthetic. Like all models in the collection, their caseband is engraved with the 12 letters of the Louis Vuitton name. The lugs echo the handles of the famous trunks made by Gaston Louis-Vuitton and feature an interchangeable strap system patented by the Maison. The ultimate means of matching your strap to your luggage in one smooth flick of the wrist.

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JACOB & CO.

DAVID CHOKRON

Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather CASE : black DLC-treated titanium,

transparent sapphire glassbox, black DLCtreated titanium caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 47 x 20mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, Caliber JCFM02, 72-hour power reserve, tri-axial flying tourbillon, rotating motion FUNCTIONS : offset hours and minutes, twincylinder music box DIAL : matt black with rose gold appliques, miniatures in the center and in front of the cylinders STRAP : black alligator leather, rose gold folding clasp 18-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

Mafia blues Join the dance. That of a Fine Watch movement keeping step with the tune it plays, body and soul. The Jacob & Co. Opera is a tri-axial tourbillon watch equipped with two music box cylinders. Their tunes combine to create a richer orchestration than ever before within a wristwatch. They are coordinated with the movement in that the caliber begins spinning on its axis as soon as the music begins. It dances on a stage composed of a large transparent sapphire dome : a giant glassbox typical of Jacob & Co. The Opera principle is interpreted in countless different ways and can virtually be made to order. All it takes is to change the cylinders as well as the figurine located at the very center of the movement which represents the theme of the song. This particular edition is dedicated to The Godfather by Francis Ford Coppola. For fans of the iconic trilogy, the tune chosen is not the main theme of the film’s soundtrack, the one where the Godfather himself, Don Vito Corleone played by Marlon Brando, dances at the wedding of his daughter Connie. It is instead the love theme, which illustrates the romance between Al Pacino’s character Michael Corleone during his exile in Sicily, and his young wife whose life was cut tragically short. An iconic movie that inspired an exceptional watch.

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RICHARD MILLE

DAVID CHOKRON

Richard Mille RM 12-01 Tourbillon CASE : bezel and caseback in Quartz TPT® or Carbon TPT®,

caseband in Quartz TPT®, transparent sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50m SIZE : 39.3 x 48 x 13.8mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, skeletonized RM 12-01 caliber, 70-hour power reserve, tourbillon FUNCTIONS : hours and minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon DIAL : no dial, openworked hands STRAP : canvas or urethane with titanium folding clasp LIMITED SERIES OF 18 PER CASE COLOR

A matter of

structure

In 2006 Richard Mille laid a watch innovation milestone with its RM 012. It remains to date one most daring and most difficult watches to produce ever made by a brand that has no shortage of others posing similar challenges. With its entirely tubular-structured movement reminiscent of a racing car chassis, Richard thereby drove the issue of rigidity and lightness to new levels, along with the automobile metaphor. Exclusively launched on the American market (which everyone is free to visit), the new RM 12-01 Tourbillon delivers its own take on this core topic for the brand, namely structural reinforcement. The reflection behind it along with the aesthetic are clearly strongly influenced by the quest for robustness and resistance to intense shocks. The RM 12-01 features a skeleton tourbillon movement attached to four extremely visible beams representing the core message for this model. They take the form of two titanium streamlined double pillars, arranged to form the letter X, and secured to the center of the caliber. Beneath it, the movement is held by an openworked baseplate in Carbon TPT®, placed on a caseback made from the same material as the case – meaning white/gray or red Quartz TPT®, Carbon TPT® alone, or the latter combined with gold-toned Quartz TPT®.

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TAG HEUER

DAVID CHOKRON

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Carbon CASE : black PVD-treated titanium, black PVD-treated carbon

bezel ring, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 300m SIZE : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Calibre 5, 45h power reserve. FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : black, carbon-patterned STRAP : black nylon, black PVD-coated titanium folding clasp with diving extension

Carbon forever The Aquaracer by TAG Heuer has begun a new chapter in its history. Redesigned in a more angular, virile spirit, it had so far been interpreted in ceramic versions for women and stainless steel – some of them black PVD-treated – for men. The Carbon triple series takes the masculine logic a step further by adopting a new metal. The name refers first and foremost to the color, since the 41mm cases are in titanium with a ‘coal-black’ PVD coating. Framed by matt black PVD-treated carbon bezel rings, the dials bear a similarly marbled carbon-like motif. The result is a dark, stealth-type look enlivened by colorful accents that stand out against the somber background. The hands come in electric blue or bright yellow, two vibrant shades picked up on the top-stitching of the woven nylon strap ; while other versions feature gold-toned hands and hour-markers. Behind these colorful effects lies a quest for exclusivity, since these three Aquaracer Carbon variations will be available only in TAG Heuer boutiques.

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ULYSSE NARDIN

DAVID CHOKRON

Ulysse Nardin Diver 44 mm CASE : titanium, titanium rotating bezel with rubber inlay,

transparent sapphire crystal, solid screw-in back, waterresistant to 300m SIZE : 44 x 13,1mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber UN-118, silicon escapement, 60-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power-reserve indicator DIAL : midnight blue or black, finely grained STRAP : rubber with engraved titanium plate, color matching the dial

Marine

Corps

The Marine collection by Ulysse Nardin was easily recognizable. It enjoyed a fine career with its large bezel featuring an undulating rubber inlay, its power reserve systematically appearing at 12 o’clock, its dials often bearing maritime patterns (waves or sharks) and its rubber strap featuring a metal link just below the lugs at 6 o’clock. It is now reborn without ever having vanished, in a simplified and updated guise entirely in step with the many changes the brand is experiencing. The inspiration stems from the Diver Deep Dive presented at the SIHH 2018, a sea ‘monster’ of which the Diver 44mm is a less intense version, while nonetheless modernizing the previous generations in a fairly radical way. The dial swaps its previous patterns for an all-over grained surface with a deliberately marked texture lending a resolutely sporty touch. The bezel has kept its inlay which now features a series of parallel grooves, while the long dagger-shaped hands enhanced with Super-LumiNova® are entirely different. The graduations marking the small seconds, the power reserve and the dive times on the bezel are all simpler, straighter and clearer. Made from titanium with a dial, bezel and strap available in black or blue versions, the watch is more relevant, legible and powerful than ever.

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Fiftysix Tourbillon CASE : 18K 5N polished pink gold, transparent sapphire

crystal caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber 2160, 80h power reserve); 188 components, 22K gold rotor FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, tourbillon DIAL : opaline silvertoned, gold hands, numerals and hour-markers highlighted by a luminescent material STRAP : brown Mississipiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell and tone-on-tone stitching, square scales, 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp

The Tourbillon beats to the

Fiftysix tune The tourbillon family welcomes a gifted newcomer with a musical flourish : marking the start of the back-to-work period, the birth of the Fiftysix Tourbillon was announced at London’s legendary Abbey Road Studios, with which Vacheron Constantin will be cooperating (see page 94). The world’s oldest continuously operating watch manufacturer thereby ensures the longevity of its very reason for being – Fine Watchmaking – as well as confirming its pronounced affinities with music. Inspired by the reference 6073 created in 1956, the Fiftysix collection unveiled its first three models at the SIHH 2018, including a stainless steel self-winding version that represented a first for Vacheron Constantin. Connoisseurs will have noted the shape of the four lugs, each presenting one side of the Maltese Cross, in keeping with the original model. The Maison revisits its classics with an ultra-thin self-winding Manufacture movement, featuring refined manual finishing visible through the sapphire crystal back of the gold case. Its likewise gold peripheral rotor ensures a comfortable 80-hour power reserve. The omnipresent balance between technical and aesthetic elements reflects the serenity of the centuries-old brands still active today, whose work is naturally rewarded by the demanding Hallmark of Geneva.

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Focus ZENITH

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Defy El Primero 21 Brushed Titanium CASE : brushed titanium, domed sapphire crystal, sapphire

caseback, water-resistant to 100m DIAMETER : 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber El Primero 9004, 50h power reserve), 293 components, rotor with circular satin-brushed motif FUNCTIONS : two-counter chronograph (30-minute at 3 o’clock and 60-second at 6 o’clock), hours, minutes, small seconds (9 o’clock), powerreserve display DIAL : openworked, faceted ruthenium hands and hour-markers enhanced with Super-LumiNova® STRAP/BRACELET : rubber strap or titanium bracelet, titanium double folding clasp

Titanium

and hundredths of a second Almost half a century after its launch, the famous El Primero movement developed by Zenith and distinguished by its tenth-of-a-second precision took a quantum leap last year. Years of full-on R&D have enabled the Manufacture (which has passed the 150-year mark) to transform its iconic caliber, while also offering it in a whole new collection. The self-winding El Primero Caliber 9004 powering the Defy El Primero 21 model – available since this summer in brushed titanium – offers hundredth of a second accuracy. Immediately identifiable by a look far more modern than previous generations of Zenith chronographs, the Defy El Primero 21 (standing for 21st century) proudly and effectively displays its accuracy via a seconds hand rotating in one second around the inner bezel ring graduated from 1 to 100. The complexity of the openworked dial and its ruthenium hour-markers reinforce the sophisticated appearance of this chronometer-certified distillation of innovation, notably featuring a chronograph escapement oscillating at the rate of 360,000 vibrations per hour. A model clearly destined for fans of top-rate performance.

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MAURON MUSY

FADI JAMIL

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Steel Armure Anima The Armure reveals a new face T

he unusual and industrial-style ARMURE model features highly

technical lines representing a complete break with traditional watchmaking conventions.

In this instance, function creates design, since aesthetic and technical

elements are inseparably entwined. Composed of 36 elements – compared with only ten or so for traditional models – the case

houses unprecedented innovations stemming from high-precision workmanship. A degree of complexity that for the first time makes it

possible to apply the principle of mechanical sealing technology to a watch.

Three years of research were required to develop the nO-Ring®

technology, by which two clamp braces – the caseband and bezel – tense

the various case elements together via specially in-house-made satellite compression springs. Dedicated surface treatments ensure unfailing, gasket-free water resistance.

STEEL ARMURE ANIMA CASE : Steel DIAMETER : 44mm GLASS: Sapphire,

glareproofed DIAL: Blue matt, beadblasted CASEBACK: Transparent, in glareproofed sapphire crystal MOVEMENT : Calibre 3903A. Mechanical movement, Swiss lever escapement, Bidirectional automatic winding (using the energy produced by wrist movements) FUNCTIONS : Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date STRAP/BRACELET : Leather, Folding buckle SPECIFIC FEATURES: nO-Ring® technology by MAURON MUSY, Engraved serial number, Swiss Crafted

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ARMIN STROM

FADI JAMIL

Dual Time Resonance:

Masterpiece 1 The Dual Time Resonance by Armin Strom is a horological Masterpiece: a chef-

Dual Time Resonance

d’œuvre combining the practicality of two completely independent dual time

CASE : Grade 5 titanium, Sapphire crystal and case

indications with the increased precision of two independent movements in resonance. The Dual Time Resonance launches the Swiss manufacture’s new flagship Masterpiece collection, which highlights the Armin Storm’s extraordinary technical and artistic abilities. Masterpiece 1 Dual Time Resonance shines a spotlight on Resonance: two independent movements sit side-by-side in a distinctive oval case, their regulators wedded by Armin Strom’s patented Resonance Clutch Spring performing a continually horological two-step between the dual eye-catching counter-oscillating balances. Independent movements enable the Dual Time Resonance to indicate GMT, or a second time zone, as well as a function used as a timer or countdown. Power reserve indicators on each of the hand-guilloche dials and a 24-hour indication at 6 o’clock complete the indications.

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back with antireflective treatment DIAMETER: 59 mm x 43.4 mm (including lugs) DIAL: hand guilloche MOVEMENT : Manual-winding, patented resonance clutch spring, dual offcentre time indications, 4 mainspring barrels REGULATING SYSTEM: two independent regulation systems connected by a resonance clutch spring POWER RESERVES: conical x 2, 110 hours for each movement STRAP/BRACELET : Delivered with a black alligator strap and stainless steel doublefolding clasp.


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Trilogy By Victoria Townsend

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Bovet 1822 completes a trilogy of celestial timepieces with the 9-day double-sided flying tourbillon Tellurium-Orrery and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Récital 22 Grand Récital WHEN PASCAL RAFFY ACQUIRED BOVET WATCHES IN 2001, his ambition

was to revive the brand founded by the Edouard Bovet in 1822 to its former glory, and beyond. The company was known in the 19th century

for its beautifully decorated pocket watches, and under the leadership

of Pascal Raffy, the métiers d’art of enamelling, miniature painting,

and engraving are once again performed on Bovet watches attaining the highest levels of application.

Along with his great admiration for decorative arts, Pascal Raffy is a firm believer in traditional manufacturing procedures with useful

complications particularly appreciated by collectors, while at the

same time accompanying the development of extremely imaginative creations that defy traditional timekeeping watches to encompass

astronomical measurements. The celestial trilogy introduced by BOVET in 2016 with the Récital 18 Shooting Star tourbillon in an asymmetrical

case, followed in 2017 by the stunning celestial Récital 20 Astérium, and today with the Récital 22 Grand Récital, is a magnificent example of the vision of the owner.

The Récital 22 Grand Récital is a 9-day Flying Tourbillon presented as a Tellurium-Orrery with astronomical indications and retrograde

perpetual calendar. It has 5 new patents, including one for a pushpiece that simultaneously adjusts all the Tellurium and perpetual calendar functions of the watch.

On the dial the double-sided flying tourbillon represents the sun. Raised above the surface of the movement, the tourbillon carriage is

positioned with a titanium carriage bridge with five arms, each one

rounded by hand, creating the effect of rays surrounding the majestic sun. The hemispherical earth rotates anti-clockwise on its axis in a

24-hour cycle, while the spherical moon orbits the earth in exactly 29.53 days. The ‘visible’ half of the moon (the other part is black) is textured

and filled with a luminescent substance so you can see which part is

illuminated by the sun in real time. You’ll need to correct it by one day every 122 years.

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The earth is first engraved with a map, before being hand-painted with

details that include oceans, mountains, deserts and forests, techniques made

even more difficult on a hemispherical surface with the incorporation of luminescent substances for night-time viewing, finished with several layers

of transparent lacquer before being polished. To complete the sense of realism,

clouds and air currents have been painted on top of the thick layers of lacquer, thereby appearing to float in mid-air.

A three-dimensional polished titanium hand indicates the hour on the

24-hour graduated scale on the globe. Retrograde minutes and power-reserve are indicated on either side, with curved displays in harmony with the globe.

The tourbillon that rotates once every 60 seconds indicates the seconds by a hand fixed to the carriage wheel.

A retrograde double-sided date seen through an aperture on the left of the tourbillon carriage is read through a magnifying glass within the metal bezel, highlighted with a ring machined from solid luminescent material on the inner edge of the aperture.

Our astonishment continues, on the back, where a retrograde perpetual calendar appears through a large sapphire crystal.

Hour, day, month and

leap-year indications are read through apertures on the bridge decorated with

circular Côtes de Genève centred around the tourbillon’s axis. A glass date disk is guided by the bridge. Each indication is adjustable by individual correctors, but also by the patented pushpiece located between the upper lugs that adjusts ALL -- the perpetual calendar and Tellurium functions – simultaneously.

Only 6o movements – each with 472 components and a single barrel for a power reserve of over 9 days -- will be produced, available in 46.30 x 19.60 mm cases of 18K red gold or 950/1000 platinum. As an ultimate gesture of respect

to the future owner, in addition to your preferred metal you can choose the orientation on the globe of the earth-sun axis at 12 o’clock from 6 different regions of the world.

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Watch Photo Awards BRICE LECHEVALIER

NEFTALI NOTARIO, Baume & Mercier

MICHALA VISLOCKA, Tudor

Discover the winners and visit

the exhibition

T

he first international watch photo competition open to the public at large and enabling watch enthusiasts to have their photos published and exhibited – the Watch Photo Awards (WPA) – is drawing to a close. From May

to October 2018, a new theme was suggested (such as sport, pictured here, or black for the month of October). Mechanical-watch owners sent their photos on this theme to the WPA jury, which chose ten each time. The public then voted for the best among them, and each month its author won a weekend for two in a five-star Geneva hotel. After the six-month-long competition, the 60 selected photos are displayed in the Musée d’art et d’histoire de Genève during the GPHG exhibition from November 1st to 11th, as well as on watch-photo-awards.com

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JOSE ZEHNA, IWC


ONDREJ VISLOCKY, Rolex

RÉMI BESSON, Girard-Perregaux

DIDIER GUILLEMIN, Omega

ANTONIO FRASCINO, IWC

HENRY COOKSON, SuisseMecanica

Hotel partners :

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Technique

THE HEART OF ROLEX PRECISION TIMEKEEPING : the Parachrom hairspring and the balance wheel using the Microstella system

DAVID CHOKRON

Two approaches to

chronometry Whereas Rolex and Patek Philippe adopt vastly different approaches to production in terms of both scale and method, the two firms produce movements with similar chronometric performance, achieved by necessarily distinct means.

C

hronometry is a quality, but one that is measured in quantity. A watch’s timekeeping precision can be summed up by its mean deviation in rate. To be chronometer-certified, its movement must fall wit-

hin a range of a four-second loss or a six-second gain per day, expressed as -4 to +6 sec/day. However, a number of brands have decided to do systematically better than that, and they do so in extremely distinct ways. There is a world of difference between an industrial large-scale approach on the one hand ; and medium-scale production with numerous manual adjustments on the other. This divergence is perfectly illustrated by the two industry leaders : Rolex and Patek Philippe.

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The PATEK PHILIPPE Seal

PATEK PHILIPPE Caliber 240

TWO SCALES The mechanical movement production ratio between the two firms is about 20 to 1. Nonetheless, the degree of precision they both guarantee is similar and far exceeds the minimal requirements of chronometer certifications. The Superlative Chronometer program by Rolex guarantees that 100% of its production is adjusted to between -2 and +2 sec/day. The Patek Philippe Seal stipulates that its watches must range between -3 and +2 sec/day. The former develops extremely sophisticated industrial solutions upstream to ensure the watch remains simple and that the final stages of assembly and adjustment are as efficient as possible. Meanwhile, the latter focuses on finishing and a certain vision of watchmaking tradition implying manual adjustments.

METICULOUS CRAFTSMANSHIP Patek Philippe is the only extremely high-end brand that systematically commits to chronometry. To achieve this essential result, Patek Philippe works with high-precision component production, which nonetheless soon reveals its limitations. A machine tool responsible for machining components loathes change. To maintain it at maximal efficiency, it must operate on the same part for as long as possible, so as to achieve sustainable performance stability. This is a necessity when it comes to producing springs measuring just a quarter of a millimeter wide. However, by definition, Patek Philippe produces dozens of different calibers, resulting in small quantities of each type. The brand therefore compensates by high-quality manual adjustment of the movements designed to deliver a level of rating precision meeting the lofty in-house standards, no matter how long it takes. 

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The Superlative CHRONOMETER seal The star ROLEX product, a Day-Date 40

PAUL O’NEIL Rédacteur en chef de WorldTempus.com Chief Editor of WorldTempus.com

T

he quest for ever-greater precision has occupied watchmakers over the centuries and is no less diminished today. To the examples of industrial

production at Rolex and the more high-end approach at Patek Philippe, both of which guarantee levels of precision far in excess of those required for chronometer certification, one could also add the new “master chronometer” certification introduced by Omega, which also

INDUSTRIAL VIRTUES

sets the bar very high. We recently covered the differences

Meanwhile, Rolex produces 20 times more movements, a volume divided among

between a chronometer and a superlative chronometer

five times less different calibers. This means that each machine that produces a

on WorldTempus and some of the more recent techni-

component can do so for infinitely longer time spans than elsewhere, without

cal innovations, including a brand-new type of hairspring

ever changing task. Moreover, Rolex regulates the ­temperature so that the oils,

developed by the Swatch Group, promise even greater

the air, and the metal of which the robots are made remain stable at all times

advances in precision in the future.

and across the seasons. While the gain may be confined to a few microns, this approach yields considerable final benefits. The calibers are assembled in just a few minutes and, above all, they are adjusted with disconcerting ease via the Microstella system. This means that Rolex movements leave the assembly workshops with a -1 to +1 sec/day rate variation ! The difference in terms of manual treatment and the volumes produced is reflected in the sales price, which can be up to four times higher for a straightforward steel watch, albeit with similar chronometric properties.

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Craftmanship MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

Inside the Hermès leather workshop The leather workshops opened by Hermès in Bienne in 2016 give rise to refined creations evoking more than 175 years of saddle-stitching tradition. A stitch in time… Welcome to a backstage tour.

S

tepping into the Hermès leather workshops is a multi-sensory experience. First smell, with the heady scent of tanned hides. Sight is dazzled by the rainbow array of colors stretching from orange and yellow to classic brown, Etoupe,

Hermès red and various shades of blue… Touch is also brought into play, with the ever soft leathers revealing a variety of textures, from sturdy Barenia to the subtle grain of Epsom. Perhaps only taste is left out, since hearing also enables visitors to appreciate the exquisite ballet performed in these Bienne-based workshops where the artisans’ touch meets machinery in crafting the finest leather straps. Hands whirl and twirl in skilled and accurate movements, deftly fashioning goatskin, calfskin, buffalo skin, ostrich skin and alligator leather according to a dedicated ritual and using highly specific techniques. 

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The edge must be softened by rubbing and sandpapering. With meticulous care, the leather artisan applies a dye, before smoothing and waxing it.

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wielding flaxen thread and two hands, the artisan creates the famous “saddle stitch”.

CAPE COD, large model, double tour smooth

Etoupe calfskin strap.

It all starts with the rigorous selection of leathers. Wrinkles, veins and scratches are personae non gratae in the workshop. Then comes the cutting of two leather segments of the same width that will compose the two parts of the strap. They are flattened to achieve paper-thin outer edges. A tiny strip of fabric is then glued between the upper and lower parts of the strap to form a whole. The choreography serving to transform the raw material into an elegant and robust strap can begin. First comes the process of tracing and marking with a compass the sewing line and the stitching points. Using flaxen thread and two needles, the artisan creates the famous “saddle stitch”. Every detail counts and special attention is devoted to the edge of the strap, which is softened by rubbing and sandpapering. Then comes the stage consisting of shaping the two loops through which the strap tab will be threaded. Each strap is authenticated by a letter and stamped with the House logo or maker’s mark. One final detail will remain invisible to the wearer of the watch : the finishing stitch on the strap forms an H. The strap, designed and created to hug the wrist like a second skin, thus becomes an emblem of ultimate luxury.

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Atmosphère MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Audemars Piguet

rebuilds the Hôtel des Horlogers

J

uly 2016 saw the closure of the Hôtel des Horlogers in Le Brassus, owned by Audemars PIguet and the only four-star hotel in the Vallée de Joux. Opened in 1984 and renovated 20 or so years later, the hotel and its 27

rooms could neither be extended nor modernized, and its owner therefore decided to replace it with a new project. The first stone of the new Hôtel des Horlogers was laid on June 8th 2018 exactly where its predecessor once stood, in the center of Le Brassus, alongside the road taken by watchmakers and the many visitors to the Vallée, right next to the Manufacture Audemars Piguet. “Though far from simple, this project is important, not only for Audemars Piguet but for the entire Vallée de Joux”, said Jasmine Audemars, Chairwoman of the Audemars PIguet Board of Directors. “The hotel is a way to attract a broader public to this stunningly beautiful part of the world. It is essential for us to be able to cater to the needs of international travelers and to those of our locals”. Anchoring the new hotel complex within the geographical and cultural environment of the Vallée de Joux was of fundamental importance for the watchmaker. Developed by BIG, the firm headed by Danish architect Bjarke Ingels and renowned for bold architecture, the project will be supervised by the CCHE

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architects’ firm based in the Canton of Vaud. BIG had already designed the “Maison des Fondateurs”, the Audemars Piguet museum. This innovative, partially sunken spiral-shaped building, blending remarkably smoothly into the surrounding nature, is currently under construction on the other side of the Manufacture. The new Hôtel des Horlogers bears the style signature of the Danish firm, with its futuristic Z-shaped design arranged into four buildings, as well as a sloping roof that guests will be able to use in leaving their room, on foot in summer or in winter-time “ski-in, ski-out” mode. Wood-fired central heating, entirely glazed and featuring authentic materials such as stone and wood from the region, this 6,300 sqm monument to modern architecture will comprise 50 rooms -including 10 junior suites and 2 master suites – along with three seminar rooms and a wellness & fitness facility. A brasserie focusing on regional produce, a second restaurant and a lounge bar will be available to hotel guests as well as local residents. The inauguration is scheduled for 2020 and this establishment should raise the number of overnight stays in the Vallée de Joux to more than 25,000 per year.

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Collector’s Corner PIERRE MILLASSON

Treasure hunt

DE BETHUNE DB25 L in white gold

120 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

On November 10th and 11th 2018, the opulent hotel lounges of La Réserve Genève will be the scene of a new exceptional auction organized by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo.

OMEGA chronograph from 1950 made for the Argentinian Air Force


PATEK PHILIPPE An extremely rare, well preserved and

historically important yellow gold single pusher chronograph with vertical registers and officer case

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore having belonged to Emmanuel Gueit

O

ULYSSE NARDIN, a very rare 18K yellow gold

minute repeating wristwatch from 1950

ver two hundred hand-picked models will be presented in this new session that many connoisseurs of modern watchmaking will be sure not to miss. Col-

lectors’ ever-growing enthusiasm for so-called ‘vintage’ watches is thus reaching new peaks. The figures indeed speak for themselves : whereas a hammer price of more than one million Swiss francs was exceptional until recently, this type of record is now regularly reached. Is it just a fad or a more established trend ? Hard to say, but what is remarkable and extremely encouraging is the increasingly strong interest shown by younger generations, despite being born into a now fundamentally digital world.

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This fall session will as always feature recurrent watch auction stars. First, Rolex, with two Daytona 6263 and 6265 models featuring screw-lock pushers and a Paul Newman dial, estimated at between 300,000 and 500,000 francs. Patek Philippe, of course, with exceptional models such as a 1824 single pusher chronograph with officer-type case of which only 15 are currently known ; as well as an extraordinary Nautilus 3800. The latter, with its slate gray dial and platinum caseband – an unprecedented combination – might well prove to be a one-of-a-kind model or even a prototype and is bound to create a sensation. It would however be inappropriate to focus exclusively on these celebrities, since other fantastic timepieces are likely to cause a stir. Omega, whose stature is rising steadily in auctions, will be represented with three original 1957 Broad Arrow watches : a Railmaster, a Seamaster and even a Speedmaster estimated at around CHF150,000. Audemars Piguet will also be in the spotlight with the personal Royal Oak Offshore of its designer, Emmanuel Gueit, sold along with a few original sketches. In addition, the incredible Ulysse Nardin minute repeater wristwatch – the only one from the brand discovered to date – deserves a special mention. Moreover, the picture would not be complete without the well-deserved presence of models by great contemporary master watchmakers such as Denis Flageollet (De Bethune), Vianney Halter, François-Paul Journe, Kari Voutilainen and Daniel Roth. This determination to turn the spotlight on those who will doubtless be the stars of tomorrow’s auctions is remarkable in many respects. The backing thus provided by Phillips and particularly by its Head of Sale Alexandre Ghotbi deserves due praise, since these brilliant independent figures are an integral part of an extraordinary horological heritage and supporting them is both indispensable and well-justified.

KARI VOUTILAINEN Vingt-8 with power

ROLEX Ref 6265 in steel with Paul

reserve in platinum, with two dials, black and blue guilloché

Newman dial (circa 1965)

122 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

TAG HEUER Black PVD coated Autavia ref 113.603 made for the Israeli Defense Forces (circa 1985)

OMEGA Speedmaster Ref 2915-1 Speedmaster Broad Arrow (1958)


Right on time. Exclusively online. Since 2001

WorldTempus.com


Scents FADI JAMIL

Get closer to the power of reality with Boss the scent B OSS Parfums unveils its next chapter in the story of

tion is a two-way encounter. A journey that begins with the

seduction: BOSS THE SCENT`s new campaign explores

simple act of getting closer, it is the influence and intensity of

seduction in the digital age and the transcendental

the fragrance that sparks a mutual attraction. Continuing this

power of the fragrance.

Can you truly connect with someone you have never met? Is it possible to feel close to another person without knowing them

story, BOSS Parfums’ new campaign illustrates the transcendental power of BOSS THE SCENT, surpassing borders and igniting our deepest desire to connect in the real world.

in real life? Though we live in a virtual world, where we meet, talk and socialize behind a screen, this only takes us so far. It is only in real life that the senses can intertwine. Sight. Sound. Touch. Smell.

THE NEW CAMPAIGN The campaign will be brought to life by talented new fragrance ambassadors actor Jamie Dornan and model Brigit Kos.

The truth is, nothing competes with the chemistry created in

In a film by Drake Doremus, the pair will take on the roles of

real life. We cannot stay behind our screens any longer. We must

the BOSS man and woman, as they experience an augmented

disconnect and act on our impulses.

sensuality. Triggered by the sensorial power of BOSS THE SCENT, they begin their encounter behind VR masks. Despite this bar-

A LEGACY OF SEDUCTION

rier, they connect. The physical chemistry between them grows.

BOSS Parfums debuted its definition of seduction in 2015 with

Easing their transition from one world to the other, BOSS THE

the introduction of BOSS THE SCENT. In its truest form, seduc-

SCENT acts as the bridge between the virtual and real. As their

124 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


senses intertwine, they get closer until they realize they must

Enhancing the carnal quality of the mysterious Cocoa Abso-

detach from their virtual realities to connect in the real world.

lute, perfumer Bruno Jovanovic infused BOSS THE SCENT Pri-

As part of the new chapter, a multi-platform digital campaign

vate Accord For Him with sophisticated Mocha. Combined with

will challenge consumers to disconnect from their screens to

exquisite notes of Ginger and exotic Maninka fruit, the senses

reconnect with their senses. To create memorable experiences

are seduced. The precious dark amber liquid is encased within a

that combine the virtual and the real on their own journeys of

flacon finished with a brown metallic cap.

seduction.

Crafted by perfumer Louise Turner, BOSS THE SCENT Private Accord For Her features notes of sweet Mandarin and captivating

TWO ADDICTIVE & APHRODISIAC NEW SCENTS

Osmanthus flower to enrich the irresistible charm and dark ap-

Aphrodisiac twists of the original fragrances, BOSS THE SCENT

peal of the Cocoa Absolute and sensual Roasted Tonka. An exem-

Private Accord For Him and For Her are built on a base of alluring

plary choice, the scent is presented in a glass flacon featuring an

Cocoa Absolute.

elegant amber gradient.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 125


Zoom BRICE LECHEVALIER

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

& Abbey Road Studios

The partnership announced this September in London’s legendary Abbey Road Studios has set the tone for the new dynamic driving the watch industry’s oldest manufacturer. Performers such as the Beatles and Pink Floyd cut their records at the Abbey Road Studios, which have more recently welcomed stars such as Lady Gaga and a number of soundtracks including for the Lord of the Rings and James Bond Skyfall movies. Together with youthful prodigy Benjamin Clementine, who gave a private concert at the event, the studios have created a song called Eternity, inspired by Oscar Wilde and specially composed for Vacheron Constantin. The singer-songwriter is one of the faces of the brand’s new communications campaign with its “One of not many” slogan.

DUBAI WATCH WEEK in London In mid-September, ahead of the SalonQP in November, Londoners were able to enjoy two days of panel discussions at the Horology Forum co-hosted by Christie’s and the Dubai Watch Week (founded by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons). The event attracted a number of watch curators, authors, collectors and industry professionals, including numerous heads of independent brands. Read all about it on the website of our partner WorldTempus.com, which covered this world premiere.

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RICHARD MILLE

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

and the big-hearted sailor

& The Big Blue

The RM family welcomes Pierre Casiraghi, son of Princess Caroline of

In summer 2018, to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the cult film The Big

Monaco and a sailor who is both gifted and versatile (competing on tradi-

Blue and accompany the launch of its Polaris collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre

tional yachts as well as flying catamarans). As Richard Mille’s first sailing

invited the movie’s leading man Jean-Marc Barr to indulge in a spot of free

ambassador, he has established his racing stable and is also patron of “Sail

diving once again – equipped with a diver’s watch – on the one of the fil-

for a cause”.

ming locations in Taormina, Sicily.

IWC

inaugurates its new Manufakturzentrum CEO of IWC and an architect by training, Christophe Grainger Herr inaugurated the company’s brand-new manufacturing facility at the end of August near Schaffhausen, having significantly contributed to the ultra-modern concept. Above and beyond rationalization and performance factors, these watchmaking workshops feature dedicated visitor pathways enabling an up-close view of how IWC movements and cases are produced.

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Zoom BRICE LECHEVALIER

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT

celebrates its 30th anniversary

More than 350 people from around the world congregated to applaud the brand founders at a splendid Parisian soiree on the banks of the Seine. Aletta and Peter Stas thanked their guests and their teams for these 30 years of passion, before turning the spotlight on their new Managing Director, Niels Eggerding.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRILOGY

at Bucherer

The major Luzern-based retailer is enriching its multi-brand Blue Edition collection with the first ever blue iteration of its Traditionnelle in three exclusive versions, of which the Parisian public was given a preview presentation by Laurent Perves and Christian Selmoni (Vacheron Constantin) and Patrick Graf (Bucherer, pictured in the center).

RJ and its Bumpers RJ’s CEO Marco Tedeschi hosted trade press representatives in Geneva to discuss the brand’s new caliber, its ladies’ collection as well as the distinctive bumpers on RJ cases that are now a brand trademark : RJ Bumpers.

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Zoom FADI JAMIL

SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY

Serves Up New Celebrity Executive Chef Dubai, United Arab Emirates - 9 October 2018 – Six Senses Zighy Bay is plating up a taste of celebrity with the appoint of Executive Chef, James Knight-Pacheco. Bringing a wealth of industry experience, Chef KnightPacheco returns to the resort to head all food and beverage offerings through the resort’s outstanding dining venue’s kitchens. Having previously worked with renowned Michelin starred chefs like Gordon Ramsay, Raymond Blanc, Phil Howard, Esben Holmboe Bang, Chef KnightPacheco will be bringing unique skills and cooking techniques from the industry’s most esteemed names. His last post was with Emaar Hospitality Group, making an instant impact, James was the Executive Chef for both the Dubai Marina Yacht Club, as well as Vida Downtown Dubai, contributing to the property’s evolving gastronomic offering and ensuring diners came back to sample a wide-ranging plethora of dishes from different cuisines, he also won Chef of the Year 2017. A former TV celebrity, Chef Knight-Pacheco starred in his own show on BBC prime time show ‘Out of the Frying Pan’ and was involved in ‘The Restaurant’ and conducted numerous public appearances at high-profile industry events. An energetic and unique live demonstrator, James has presented to audiences ranging in size from 3,000 people in various BBC Good Food Shows, as well as for intimate high-profile VIP dinner events. He has also worked in leading hotels and restaurants in the UK, and the Middle East. Previously he worked as the Chef de Cuisine at Sense on the Edge in Zighy Bay, which won the ‘Best Restaurant Middle East 2012.’ Prior to this he was Head Chef at one of London’s most prestigious restaurants, as well as Demonstrator and Chef Tutor at Ashburton Cookery School in Devon, UK. With over 15 years of industry experience, his culinary character is inventive, progressive and intelligent. He combines customer desire with personal flare to surprise and satisfy the diner through inimitable style and experiences and is bringing all of that to Six Senses Zighy Bay.

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Zoom FADI JAMIL

RICHARD MILLE

official partner of the Circuit Paul Ricard Becoming the official partner of the Circuit Paul Ricard is yet another

visible alongside the race track, on video screens and on the track vehicle

demonstration of Richard Mille’s passion for motor racing.

fleet, as well as throughout public, media and VIP areas. It will also adorn the

Already present at major vintage sports car events such as the Le Mans

vast Tour Chrono, a time tower specially erected at the entrance to the final

Classic and Chantilly Arts & Elegance, and in pole position for innovation

straight opposite stands and main grandstands. Spectators will be able to

thanks to the brand’s involvement with Formula 1 teams and drivers, Richard

keep pace with the thrills of motorsport by following the positions lap by lap,

Mille has now made its mark on one of the legendary temples of speed: the

live on a giant screen, thanks to Richard Mille.

Circuit Paul Ricard.

Stéphane Clair, Chief Executive of the Circuit Paul Ricard: ‘We are delighted

Opened in 1970 at Le Castellet, in the Var region of France, the track has

to partner with Richard Mille and showcase our shared passions and values

witnessed some of the most memorable clashes in the sport’s history. The

of technology, a pioneering spirit and motorsport. The Tour Chrono – whose

French Formula 1 Grand Prix, Bol d’Or and countless mechanical tests on four

design is a great success because it was created by the teams at Richard Mille

and two wheels have helped to establish the Circuit Paul Ricard’s legendary

– plays a key role at an internationally renowned track such as the Circuit Paul

status. A new chapter in its history began on 24 June 2018, when the Formula

Ricard, because it provides live updates on positions and times, and a live

1 World Championship returned to France.

stream of the race itself.’

Equally passionate about watchmaking and racing cars, fields where

Circuit Paul Ricard: An FIA Grade 1 international circuit with 167 possible

technical sophistication, performance and the pursuit of lightness are

configurations. 300 days of operation and 250,000 spectators in 2017. In

pushed to the extreme, Richard Mille has chosen to associate its name with

2018, it held 21 events open to the public, including the French Formula 1

the Circuit as an official watchmaking partner. The Richard Mille brand is

Grand Prix.

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Zoom FADI JAMIL

AUDEMARS PIGUET

introduces Pro golfers to the art of watchmaking Le Brassus, October 2018 – Lee Westwood, Andrew “Beef” Johnston and Matt Wallace, three members of Audemars Piguet’s Golf Dream Team, travelled to Le Brassus to visit the manufacturer’s home in the Vallée de Joux. After an exciting visit of the museum and restauration workshop, the invited golfers tried their luck at assembling a watch movement. Lee Westwood, brand ambassador since 2005, describes his admiration for the watchmakers’ skills: “To see first-hand how much thought, skill and patience goes into each watch is just incredible.” Rising star Matt Wallace adds: “I’m proud to have been a member of Audemars Piguet’s Dream Team since the beginning of the year. To have the chance to explore the company’s history in this beautiful region, to wear that watchmaker coat and work on a real movement was a lot of fun. You really appreciate the watchmakers’ attention to detail and what the brand stands for.” Whether on a green or in the universe of Haute Horlogerie, it is always a question of precision and perfection, the beauty of both gesture and performance.

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Big Bang Unico. Case in 18K King Gold invented and developed by Hublot with a ceramic bezel. In-house chronograph UNICO movement. Interchangeable strap using patented One-Click system. hublot.com

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GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 16 - OCTOBER 2018  

GMT is the most trusted Magazine in horology, the Middle East Edition is distributed to serious collectors and elite enthusiasts in multiple...

GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 16 - OCTOBER 2018  

GMT is the most trusted Magazine in horology, the Middle East Edition is distributed to serious collectors and elite enthusiasts in multiple...