Global Traveler February

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February 2017

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA p.74 BELGRADE p. 62 CHARLESTON p. 60 LIMA p.68 LONDON p.64 TAIPEI p.54 VIETNAM p. 72

ON THE WATERFRONT BERGEN p.66

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

LOOKING FOR ADVENTURE “HEAD OUT ON the highway …”

This could be the theme of both this issue and my recent experiences. It was an interesting parallel to edit Lois Friedland’s feature on luxury automotive experiences (page 38) on the heels of participating in my first luxury drive experience.

In mid-December Katie Skrzek, vice president/digital director, and I escaped chilly Philly for Terranea Resort in Rancho Palos Verdes, Calif., to participate in the Lexus Drive Experience. While we plan to cover our escapades in an upcoming CHEERS!: Kimberly enjoying a drink at the United Polaris lounge issue, fans of unique driving experiPHOTO: © RICHARD T. EVANS ences should look for similar Lexus Drives at hotels around the country.

The newest property to join the group is The Beekman, A Thompson Hotel, in New York City.

Before jetting off to Los Angeles, I visited Chicago with senior vice president Richard Evans for the unveiling of United’s first Polaris-brand lounge at O’Hare International Airport. The new business class is a game changer for the the airline; the new seats are scheduled to enter service this month on United’s new Boeing 777-300ER aircraft. The Polaris service standards have been in practice since Dec. 1, 2016. This month’s picture, from our lounge visit, features one of the lounge’s signature cocktails, a twist on a Pimm’s Cup, made with blood orange instead of lemonade.

This issue brings us on a full world tour, from Orlando, Taipei, Charleston and Belgrade to London, Bergen, Lima, Vietnam, Antigua & Barbuda and Paris.

Next month, we kick off our annual charity auction to benefit The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society.

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com

ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT PATRICK T. COOPER EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER AKHIL KALEPU ALLIE MOORE TERRY A. SPRUNGER

KRISTY ALPERT SUSAN BARNES JOE BAUR LOIS FRIEDLAND ILONA KAUREMSZKY RICHARD NEWTON VICTORIA RICCARDI HOLLY RIDDLE KATHY RODEGHIER BARBARA ROGERS

ete bios, For compl a.com travelerus al visit glob

ia’s most One of As ties, capital ci ed underrat delicious ts as bo Taipei le ndly peop s. food, frie dden gem hi of ts and lo

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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CONTACT US

GENERAL INQUIRIES/ISSUE REQUESTS tel 267 364 5811 SUBSCRIPTIONS tel 818 286 3134 | gbtcs@magserv.com PUBLIC RELATIONS Kimberly Krol tel 267 364 5811 ext 202 | kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR letters@globaltravelerusa.com REPRINTS Charles Calta The YGS Group tel 717 505 9701 ext 2226 charles.calta@theygsgroup.com Global Traveler is published monthly by FXExpress Publications, Inc., 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067. The U.S. subscription rate is $42 for one year, $79.95 for two years, $121.95 for three years.

POSTMASTER: Please send changes of address to Global Traveler, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067

FEBRUARY 2017

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letter from the publisher

®

ADVERTISING

MEASURE OF SUCCESS I AM IN SHOCK to realize the February issue marks the beginning of the 14th year of publishing Global Traveler.

What will the next five to 10 years offer?

Only time will tell with the continuing changes in media and travel.

Designing a magazine for the business/luxury traveler set us apart from the masses. Like the GT Globility Board members, our readers are dynamic and MILESTONE MOMENT: Francis X. Gallagher with Fern energetic travelers, equally as comfortOttavio of TAP Portugal at the launch of the carrier’s Boston route able putting their feet up at The RitzPHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER Carlton Hong Kong or relaxing over the holidays in Nicaragua.

GT continues as a market leader through our circulation audit with the Alliance for Audited Media and a completed 2017 study of our readers through the most respected U.S. market research company, MediaMark Research (GfK/MRI).

We’ve reached many milestones along the way. We’ve moved from 10 to 16 issues yearly; redesigned the publication at the height of the recession by increasing its size and wider format; developed a truly autonomous digital platform; and launched trazeetravel.com, an overwhelmingly successful magazine for millennials, in both digital and print. We recently relaunched our website, globaltravelerusa.com, adding daily articles, news and deals, improving searchability and search engine optimization and tripling monthly unique visitors. At the same time, we refreshed the print edition that continues with unparalleled readership at home, in the air, in lounges and at top hotels.

I credit our team with making GT and Trazee Travel great; they travel the world and know the airlines, hotels and destinations frequented (and not so frequented) better than anyone. We benefit from fantastic trips from Fiji to Dubai and from Iceland to South Africa. When asked if it is all worth it, I say, without a doubt, yes! There is always room to improve, and we strive to find other ways to do what we do so well.

Thanks for your continued support, travel and readership!

Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales KIMBERLY LAGUEUX tel 267 364 5811 ext. 205 | kimberly.lagueux@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Director BANU YILMAZ tel 215 301 6869 | banu.yilmaz@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEVEN BRIGHT tel 267 364 5811 ext 211 steven.bright@globaltravelerusa.com Office Manager ANGELIQUE PLATAS tel 267 364 5811 ext 210 | angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising and Editorial Coordinator JENNA PAYESKO tel 267 364 5811 ext 212 | jenna.payesko@globaltravelerusa.com Intern ANDREW RISCH intern@globaltravelerusa.com

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contents

February 2017

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64

54

36 Inside Access Chase celebrates its 2016 GT Tested Reader Survey award win with a once-in-a-lifetime event.

46 Premium Passions New travel products elicit enthusiasm from GT’s Globility Board.

50 Magical Meetings Add some fun to your next business event in Orlando.

38 Driving the Dream n and fu ly e c Take the ride of your life behind n a n Fi live DESTINATIONS the wheel of a luxury auto or hina’sBUSINESS C n i n reig exotic supercar. d city. r a o b a 54 Destination One: Taipei se Taipei promotes a free spirit 42 Every Step You Take for business development Reap the rewards of managing and trade. your own business travel.

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60 Stateside: Charleston Discover the sophisticated charm of South Carolina’s boom town.

globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

64 After 5: London Find all manner of nightlife in London.

February 2017

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA p.74 BELGRADE p. 62 CHARLESTON p. 60 LIMA p.68 LONDON p.64 TAIPEI p.54 VIETNAM p. 72

62 9–5: Belgrade Impress clients in the unexpected gem of Belgrade.

ON THE WATERFRONT BERGEN p.66

Feb. 2017 - new.indd 1

1/4/17 4:27 PM

COVER PHOTO: COLORFUL OLD WOODEN BUILDINGS LINE THE STREET IN AN AREA KNOWN AS BRYGGEN, RUNNING ALONG VAGEN HARBOR IN THE PORT CITY OF BERGEN, ON THE SOUTHWEST COAST OF NORWAY.

36 FEBRUARY 2017

ON THE COVER

PHOTO: © ADELIEPENGUIN | DREAMSTIME.COM

CHO PAN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © EATING LONDON TOURS

FEATURES

PHOTOS: © ARTUR MARCINIEC | DREAMSTIME.COM, © KIRILL MAKAROV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LEUNG

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contents

February 2017 26

34

30

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

26 Technology 28 Wine & Spirits 30 Spoils 32 Spas 34 Chefs 35 Cruising 78 LGBTQ 81 Health

10 Mail Call 13 News 16 Reviews 22 One on One Taiwan Tourism Bureau 24 One on One Omni Hotels & Resorts 80 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

66 Neighborhoods: Bergen The historical heart of Bergen bustles with activity.

68 Friends & Family: Lima History and fusion cuisine blend in Peru’s capital city.

72 Bucket List: Vietnam Witness wartime Vietnam through the ingenious Cu Chi tunnels.

74 Kicking Back: Antigua & Barbuda Get away to the turquoise waters and white-sand beaches of Antigua and Barbuda.

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FEBRUARY 2017

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2017 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © TESLA, © INTERCONTINENTAL L.A., © KZ NOEL, © ALEXANDER SHALAMOV |

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mail call

Q&A WITH FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO

AIRLINE OF THE YEAR: China Airlines PHOTO: © CHINA AIRLINES

Top Honors F Global Traveler announces the 2016 Airline of the Year and Hotel of the Year award winners. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ

or the sixth consecutive year, Global Traveler congratulates the innovative leaders in the travel industry whose efficient operations, distinct amenities, superior service and outstanding hospitality set them apart from the competition with the Airline of the Year and Hotel of the Year awards. The 2016 winners of these prestigious awards are China Airlines, Airline of the Year, and Meliá Hotels International, Hotel of the Year.

A select panel of Global Traveler employees and Advisory Board members chose the winners based on experience and independent research on financial data, occupancy rates, load factors, on-time figures, safety records, brand image and menus. Once an airline or hotel is selected, it is ineligible to participate for three years.

With great pleasure we introduce the 2016 Airline and Hotel of the Year winners.

HOTEL OF THE YEAR:

HOTEL OF THE YEAR:

Meliá Hotels International

Meliá Hotels International

PHOTO: © MELIÁ NASSAU BEACH

PHOTO: © MELIÁ PUNTA CANA

38 | GLOBAL TRAVELER | December 2016

I recently had a major issue when traveling and was stuck, due to weather, with thousands of people who missed connecting flights in Atlanta. When I called Delta Air Lines, I was told the wait time was two to six hours; the customer service line was long but moved swiftly. I was directed to a “black phone” to call customer service, and they eventually resolved my issue.

In an emergency like this, where everyone is trying to reboot, what is the best solution?

globaltravelerusa.com

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

TOP HONORS In our December 2016 issue we announced the winners of the annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards. We were thrilled to announce China Airlines’ Airline of the Year and Meliá Hotels International’s Hotel of the Year awards.

My wife and I love reading about the winners of the GT Tested Reader Survey awards.

It helps us decide where to stay on our next vacation. After reading your article, we’ve added Gran Meliá in Madrid to our list of must-stay hotels.

ELLEN MORRISON, Phoenix, Ariz.

PERPETUAL MOTION I had the pleasure of visiting Durban last year, and I completely agree with Richard Newton about the city’s dynamic, rhythmic and infectious nature. I fell in love with the city’s energy, diversity and culture — especially the food! I didn’t try the recommended restaurants listed in the December article, but I would add 9th Avenue Bistro to the

list. The bistro’s menu is exceptionally creative, so I personally suggest the six-course tasting menu. Thanks for bringing back great memories of my trip!

JOEL CHRISTY, Washington, D.C.

FARE THEE WELL I love the idea of a luxury train ride through the Irish countryside. There’s so much to see and so much natural beauty. Belmond Grand Hibernian sounds so much more exciting than a traditional hotel experience, and I’m dying to try some of Chef Alan Woods’ onboard creations, as featured in your December 2016 issue.

LARISA TOS, San José, Calif.

GOODBYE 2016, HELLO 2017 To wrap up 2016 and welcome the New Year, we asked the members of Global Traveler’s Globility Board to tell us about their travel experiences in 2016

and their travel plans for 2017.

In April, I attended my friend Valerie’s wedding at St. Paul’s Cathedral, London — a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. I spent August at Martha’s Vineyard in 2016. It was a nice change from my usual city escapes. In 2017 I want to attend the Chelsea Flower Show in London. Every year I purchase a ticket and end up giving it to a friend due to schedule conflicts.

New Year’s resolution: Make it a triple-header to attend the Chelsea Flower Show, Hampton Court Palace Flower Show and the Henley Royal Regatta.

IRIS CHILDRESS We took our 13-year-old grandson on a Backroads bicycle trip in the Loire Valley in France and ended the trip by spending a few days in Paris. We had wonderful weather and stayed in several châteaux in the Loire Valley, especially enjoying the French

haute cuisine. Some nights, dinner lasted three hours. This was our fifth bicycle trip vacation … and the best. For 2017 we are planning to visit Cuba in January, Ecuador and Peru (the Galápagos and Machu Picchu) in March and China in October.

MARVIN SINGER We had a great travel year!

Began with the Winter Carnival in Québec City; followed with skiing in Keystone; and took a 10-day trip to Madrid, Seville, Majorca and Barcelona. In July we spent a month in Hong Kong, Sydney, Melbourne, Cairns and Singapore.

We visited friends in Buffalo over Labor Day; spent Thanksgiving in Buenos Aires, Salta and Cafayate, Argentina; then closed out the travel year at Christmas markets in Munich, Nuremberg, Berlin and Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

Can’t wait to get 2017 started.

Looking forward to a month in

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or Write to: Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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like to read in the water, the Kobo Aura ONE features an IPX8 rating, which can handle 60 minutes under two meters of water. $229.99. kobobooks.com

PLUS TRAVEL WITH APP-TITUDE

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Globility

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINESS

ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

Michael Kors Access Android Wear is popular with techies, and now fashionistas can join in on the fun with Michael Kors’ new line of Access smartwatches. Available in two models, the Bradshaw and the Dylan, these devices are designed to allow interchangeable straps inI metal, leathermy and silicone.

The operating system Hue White and bought daughter the Philips (recently updated to 2.0) allows you to customize the look Color Ambiance Starter Kit forlastChristmas, and she to match the luxurious watch faces. A full battery will for about two days, and it can be charged with a wireless, loves it.

The bulbs work with a smartphone app magnetic dock for easy access. $395. michaelkors.com that allows you to adjust color and tone of light-

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | GOA

PERSONAL SPACE

26 | GLOBAL TRAVELER | December 2016

Croatia, Slovenia and Northern Germany, with the end of the year in New Zealand.

DOUGLAS GUTHRIE

HOW DO TRAVEL MERGERS IMPACT YOU? In the Dec. 14 issue of eFlyer USA, we looked at some of the possible effects of large travel industry mergers on travelers. We asked: Have you experienced any changes in accommodation or transportation options or prices that impacted your travels in 2016?

Prices fluctuate regardless of who owns what company. The biggest things I notice after these mergers as a frequent traveler are inconveniences during the transition periods.

There is always a period of time during these mergers and acquisitions when everyone seems confused about what’s going on and how to handle everyday operations, especially in hotels. Mistakes have been made in my rewards membership accounts several times over the past year that were

12

globaltravelerusa.com

FEBRUARY 2017

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likely due to some of these big changes. Everything gets back on track eventually, but the transition period poses challenges and inconveniences for travelers.

to find some balance and stay healthy. I’d love to go on a hiking retreat somewhere in the Alps this year.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes pod of dolphins lapping up the last few hours on to be a clearly focused, intensely I WAS MILES OFF THE coast of India in a of sunshine before the setting sun started to small wooden fishing boat on the Arabian flavored, bright and satisfying cool the water’s surface for the night.

Sea when I first got the feeling we were being wine.

Those happy dolphins annually swim followed.

There is a suggestion of long distances to make it to the peaceful Manned by a shirtless captain and a crew sweet mint and an evocation shores of Goa, but they’re of two local fishermen of orange and peach in Finca not the only ones to discover Goa is the beach from Goa, our boat La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, the magic of this remarkable was stocked only with destination of choice destination. followed by a relatively full body Each year nearly tiny hooks wound and excellent balance. Altogether a for many affluent 53,000 visitors make the trip around wooden planks Unwind with a little by thinly weighted line to Goa to soak in the sun, pleasing, inviting wine. travelers looking to sand and sumptuous lifestyle Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) (the traditional “fishing coastal calm in Goa. unwind and let loose this pint-sized Indian state is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a rod” in Goa) and two provides.

BY KRISTY ALPERT typical Torrontés floral flavor with pearcoolers — one filled while in India.

Goa is the beach destinawith fresh catches of and peach overtones and a gentle reminder tion of choice for many affluthe day and the other of citrus fruits in the mouth. A particularly ent travelers looking to unwind and let loose empty, having been slowly depleted of iceharmonious wine. while in India. The state sits about midway cold Kingfisher beers as the day went on.

The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) Apparently I wasn’t the only one who down India’s southwestern coastline between combines keen fruit flavors, herbal notes Maharashtra to the north and Karnataka sensed the followers, and as the captain and a fresh lemony acidity with a traceslowed of the boat’s low-powered engine to a to the east and south; and although it is the smallest state in the country, it is one of the honey and floral tones. halt, our small crew froze and grew silent as richest states in India. theripe boat was soon surrounded by a playful Following its aroma of fresh flowers and fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with citric notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

74 globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

State of Bliss

www.globaltravelerusa.com

In the Dec. 27 issue of eFlyer USA, we looked back on a year marked by uncertainty in travel, followed by a look ahead with some travel predictions for 2017. From bleisure and eco-travel to the pursuit of new experiences, 2017 will see some exciting new trends. We asked: Do you plan to travel more in 2017? What travel industry trends are you most looking forward to in the New Year?

I’m particularly interested in the wellness travel trend. I think it’s wonderful people are being more conscious of their health while traveling. Vacations should involve relaxation and some indulgence, but for those who travel often, it’s equally important

DAY’S END:

Fishing boats on a Goa beach at sunset PHOTO: © MARINA PISSAROVA | DREAMSTIME.COM

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AN

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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CAROLINE ODETA, Burlington, Vt.

HARRIS DEVDAS, via email

WHAT DOES 2017 HAVE IN STORE FOR TRAVEL?

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

PHOTOS: © KOBO, © PHILLIPS, © MICHAEL KORS,© ASTEL&KERN

phone jack is more than enough in terms of sound.

Contrary toMADDOX, what some audio-Boston, Mass.

ETHAN philes believe, the iPhone’s digital-toanalog converters are quite robust, but for people who enjoy higher quality formats, a dedicated digital audio player can bring out every detail of music. Astell&Kern’s AK70 plays 24-bit/192kHz audio (compared to the iPhone’s 16-bit/44.1kHz) via headphone jack, WiFi, Bluetooth or even through a USB or optical output. While it can’t stream music, the AK70 shines as a dedicated player for your music library. $599. astellnkern.com

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

ing to create different moods in your house and Astell&Kern AK70 match Thank For most listeners,décor. a smartphone’s head-you for suggesting these!

Philips Hue White and Color Ambiance Starter Kit Hue has been around for a while and is finding its place in homes with the White and Color Ambiance Kit. This updated package contains three LED bulbs (now 800 lumens) and the bridge that connects your smartphone to your lighting and peripherals. The bulbs themselves are nothing special; the magic truly lies in the smartphone app, where you can choose between various “scenes” to match décor, seasons and time of day. There are even “actions” which trigger a scene based on something happening, like rain or sunshine. $179.99. meethue.com

fine vines

While I think the tech improvements we’re seeing are beneficial, especially when it comes to internet connection and service, I do think it’s important to maintain the human-to-human interaction mentioned in the article.

Hotels should certainly stay competitive when it comes to technology, but ideally this wouldn’t be at the expense of traditional customer service and human interaction.

JON LEARY, Indianapolis, Ind.

UP AND UP Editor’s Note: We regret a mistake in the Class Act edition article “Up and Up” that features new hotels opening in 2017. The 5-star Westin Riyadh in Saudi Arabia will open in 2022. We apologize for this mistake.

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news

Leonardo DiCaprio’s Private Island Eco Resort

PHOTOS: © TOMAS1111 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DENNISTON INTERNATIONAL ARCHITECTS + PLANNERS LTD, © BOOM TECHNOLOGY

LUXURY TRAVEL TRENDS FOR 2017

The year 2017 will see a few major changes to the travel landscape. Luxury travelers in particular are seeking more remote destinations, customized travel itineraries and international getaways lasting longer than two weeks.

Results from the 2017 Virtuoso Luxe Report, a survey conducted by 772 advisors from the luxury travel network, reveal what travelers in this budget bracket desire from their experiences in the coming year.

Top destinations include Iceland, Cuba and certain endangered areas such as the Great Barrier Reef in Australia. The survey showed increasing interest in visiting regions of the world in danger of extinction or tarnish due to overwhelming influxes of tourists. Luxury travelers desire an exclusive visit to such areas before human visitors damage them.

Other luxury travel trends include multigenerational travel, booking experiences up to two years in advance and business-class seats on non-stop flights that do not include arduous layovers.

As far as adventure travel is concerned for luxury travelers, South Africa tops the list for a consecutive year, followed by the Galápagos Islands, Costa Rica and New Zealand.

WANT MORE NEWS ON THE GO? SIGN UP FOR GT NEWSLETTERS Global Traveler’s weekly newsletters keep you up to date with info on the go. Sign up for newsletters at globaltravelerusa.com/newsletter.

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Academy Award-winning actor and environmental activist Leonardo DiCaprio plans to turn the private island he owns into an eco-friendly resort.

The island DiCaprio purchased 10 years ago off the coast of Belize will serve as the future home of Blackadore Caye, a

wellness resort with 36 bungalows and 36 vacation homes. Renewable energy sources such as solar panels and filter rain appliances will power the utilities needed to operate the resort.

The resort will occupy only half of the 104-acre island, while the other half will continue to house various species of wildlife. restorativeislands.com/ blackadore-caye

L.A. to Sydney in Six Hours

Flying from Los Angeles to Sydney, Australia, in fewer than six hours seems like an impossible feat, but Boom Technology — an aerospace company — developed a supersonic jet that can complete this flight route in the same amount of time it takes to cross the United States in a standard plane.

Supported by Virgin CEO Richard Branson, the “Baby Boom” XB-1 supersonic jet will take to the skies in partnership with Virgin Galactic, Virgin’s high-speed/space travel division. A seat on board the one-way Baby Boom flight costs $6,500. Future routes may include New York to London in a record time of slightly more than three hours, with a price tag of $3,300. virgingalactic.com

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news LaGuardia Nation’s Worst Airport

Readers who took part in Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards named New York’s LaGuardia Airport as the worst airport in the United States.

The Queens-based airport is consistently ranked as one of the nation’s least favorite, thanks to various factors including distance from the city center, airport amenities (or lack thereof) and security line wait times.

To make matters worse for the New York airport, data from the Federal Aviation Administra-

tion and other traveler statistics show low favorability ratings for LaGuardia. The airport’s nearly one-hour commute time from the center of New York and poor connection to public transit make it difficult to access for travelers.

New York invested nearly $5 billion to tear down Terminal B and construct a brand-new central terminal that will connect with the 7 Line of the New York subway system. These large-scale refurbishments are scheduled to complete in 2021. laguardiaairport.com

Dine in the Sky in the U.K.

The next time you need to impress clients in the United Kingdom, the sky will be the limit.

International company Events in the Sky plans to host aerial dining experiences in five cities throughout the United Kingdom this summer, including London and Glasgow.

Seats and dining tables will surround a pop-up kitchen, all on a single rectangular platform. Once strapped into your seat, a crane will lift the platform off the ground to a height of approximately 100 feet. A seat at the table will cost between $60 and $250, depending on the menu and time of day. eventsinthesky.co.uk

Fifty-five years after the last Delta Air Lines plane landed in Cuba, Delta will resume its service to the island, serving as the only American airline to have previously flown to the formerly estranged nation.

Delta will offer non-stop flights from Miami (MIA), New York (JFK) and Atlanta (ATL), shuttling 3,000 passengers per week to Havana (HAV).

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Delta joins six other U.S. airlines that have begun to fly to Cuba since the lift of the travel embargo, and has since opened a ticket office in the center of Havana’s downtown.

Although certain travel restrictions are still in place for Americans who wish to visit Cuba, simple paperwork and a clear reason to visit open the doors for U.S. citizens to travel there. delta.com

The Line Hotel Opens in D.C.

Fresh from Koreatown in Los Angeles comes the second installation of The Line Hotel, a boutique hotel that has begun to take reservations for its new location in Washington, D.C. Although in the space of an old church in a somewhat crowded corner of the city (D.C.’s Adams Morgan neighborhood), the hotel is nothing short of massive. With 220 guestrooms, three restaurants, two bars, a fitness center, spa and 10,000 square feet of event space, guests will feel at home in this miniature city. thelinehoteldc.com

PHOTOS: © EVENTS IN THE SKY BY ATOMIUM, © THE LINE DC,

First Delta Flight to Cuba Since 1961

deals & rewards

PHOTOS: © JEDYNAKANNA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © NORWEGIAN AIR, © VILLASANPAOLO WELLNESS & SPA HOTEL SAN GIMIGNANO

Winter Escape to Guadeloupe

This winter Norwegian Air is making it easy and cheap to escape the bitter cold of the Big Apple and relocate to the Caribbean island of Guadeloupe.

Through the end of March, Norwegian Air is offering one-way flights from New York’s JFK to the Caribbean island of for $218. The deal, applicable only to Monday and Wednesday departures, does not include fees and optional services such as seat selection, luggage fees and onboard meals. norwegian.com

Stay at a Tuscan Villa and Spa

Grab a friend or loved one and head to Italy’s Tuscan region for a relaxing holiday of wine tasting and spa services. Until March 31, two

guests can book a room at 4-star Villasanpaolo Wellness & Spa Hotel San Gimignano for as low as $115 per night. The rate includes daily breakfast, a welcome bottle of wine and stunning views of the rolling hills of Tuscany and the nearby UNESCO World Heritage town of San Gimignano. Set on seven acres, the property produces its own olive oil and is home to an indoor/ outdoor spa with a Turkish bath, hammam, a sauna and an ice pool. villasanpaolo.com

Flight Costs in Canada Decrease

A government initiative intends to lower prices for travel within Canada, the world’s second-largest country, which historically has had high fares for flights between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts and everywhere in between.

The plan also includes faster security checks and increased collaboration with international airlines, the latter of which will encourage low-cost airlines to fly routes into Canada.

Canadian airlines also hope to provide more information to travelers about their rights as passengers, including cancellation policies and rebooking information.

With an increasingly improving infrastructure, traveling around the North American nation will soon be more efficient and more budget-friendly.

Los Angeles to Seoul

China Southern Airlines is offering return flights between Los Angeles International Airport and Seoul’s Incheon International Airport for $505 beginning in February and March.

Travelers must quickly connect in one location before arriving at their final destination.

Departing flights are available on select dates, mostly during the week or on Sundays. Return flights to L.A. are available nearly any day of the week but must take place before June 5. These discounted fares can be found on Momondo or Priceline. global.csair.com momondo.com priceline.com

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GT tested

BRUSSELS AIRLINES | BUSINESS CLASS

Brussels (BRU) to New York (JFK)

Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

Pre-Flight: While I intended to pass my pre-flight time at The Loft lounge, my flight departed from the B Terminal and I was directed to The Suite lounge. Both offer superb airport experiences to premium passengers. The Suite can accommodate more than 150 passengers, and it was full on the day of my visit. Once I found seating, I helped myself to a light morning snack

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and caffeinated beverage and chatted with my travel companions until it was time to make my way to the gate for boarding. By the time I walked to the gate, boarding was underway.

I used the priority lane to board quickly.

In-Flight: As my flight departed in the late morning, my ultimate goal was to stay awake in flight and arrive back in the United States prepared to adjust accordingly to the time change.

The lie-flat seats with integrated massage functions sure tempted me to snooze, though. Overall, the in-flight experience offered everything a premium traveler craves in a business-class experience: a large, 15.3-inch, touchscreen entertainment system with a variety of options; a Star Chef menu; a range of wine and beer options; a well-stocked amenity kit; and attentive service.

I settled in, prepared to pass the time dining and watching movies, which included an old favorite, The Town. And I did rest my eyes for just a short time. As my flight was longer than seven hours, a snack was served in addition to lunch.

TOP TAKEAWAYS ◆ If possible, select one of the “king seats,” considered the lone seat in the 1-2-1 configuration, for even more space and enhanced privacy. ◆ I found the presentation of my snow crab snack and sliced veal starter particularly lovely and visually appealing. ◆ After we reached cruising altitude, the flight attendants set up an area at the front of the cabin where passengers could help themselves to chilled Champagne throughout the flight — a nice touch. ◆ Each flight features a Star Chef and a wine and beer of the month. Dimitri Marit was the Star Chef featured on my flight. I quite enjoyed my cod in a Parmesan crust, as well as the Blanche de Thines Belgian beer, the highlighted beer. ◆ Another nice touch? Business-class passengers receive a gift box of Neuhaus chocolate.

Brussels Airlines brusselsairlines.com

PHOTOS: © BRUSSELS AIRLINES

On the Ground: My trip to Belgium came just a few months after the tragic terrorist attacks at Brussels Airport in March 2016, so extra security measures were in place. My bus transport was required to drop off a certain distance from the airport’s entrance, meaning I had a longer walk to the terminal and I passed through an additional ad hoc security screening prior to entering the airport, but I was not pulled aside for any screening at that checkpoint. After a bit of a wait to check in, I was on my way through the priority security lanes. The airport was crowded, but everything ran smoothly and without disruption, despite the number of people.

GT tested

ISROTEL DEAD SEA RESORT & SPA Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

TOP TAKEAWAYS ◆ Do take off your watch and other technology. They may be waterproof, but the Dead Sea will kill them, as it did my watch and Garmin VivoFit.

PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Arrival/Check-In: The Dead Sea has to be on anyone’s ticket of “must sees” when visiting Israel or Jordan. We had spent the previous day at the Beresheet Hotel (see GT Tested July 2016), and it took us a little longer than expected to arrive at the property on the Dead Sea. We rushed into the property to check in so we would have time to float and mud up before the sun set. The front desk was busy but accommodating and helpful checking us in and getting us to our rooms. We were traveling with another couple; our room was ready but theirs was not, so we shared our room to change in, and off to the Dead Sea we went.

Guest Quarters: All rooms at Isrotel Dead Sea Resort & Spa feature balconies, most facing the Dead Sea and Moav Mountains. We were fortunate to have a large suite with an enormous balcony fronting the Dead Sea. Entering the suite, a hallway led into the room, which held a large sofa, coffee table and seating area. The bathroom was not so lavish, with a single sink and a funny contraption that doubled as a hair dryer and electric shaver outlet. To its credit, the hotel also provided a large, separate hair dryer, as I assume guests deemed the built-in one inadequate. In the bedroom a comfortable king-sized bed awaited,

but this room was all about the view and the balcony, where you can sun all afternoon while gazing over the Dead Sea. Services/Amenities: The extreme salt levels exist in the Dead Sea because water flows in from the Jordan River and other sources but has no way of flowing out. Evaporation leaves massive amounts of salt and other minerals behind.

Although renowned for its therapeutic qualities, the sea is endangered due to shrinking water levels, much from evaporation but also from the mining of phosphorous by Israel and Jordan. Stepping into the Dead Sea, you can truly float effortlessly. You feel a tingling, almost burning sensation on your skin and scalp. As all good tourists, we covered ourselves in Dead Sea mud (provided by the hotel), let it dry and then floated in the sea to remove it. Rubbing the mud off proved more difficult than applying it. We showered at the public beach area before returning to the Isrotel Dead Sea. It was a fantastic experience, and we were lucky to be right across the street.

After we showered in our rooms, we dined at the Zer Hazahav Restaurant where we had a spectacular meal while discussing the day’s adventures and being served by the friendly and professional restaurant staff.

◆ The Dead Sea is the lowest point of dry land on Earth — 1,373 feet below sea level — and simply breathtaking. ◆ At the end of the day we ordered a perfect cheese plate and enjoyed some Israeli wine as the sun set, enjoying our balcony and views of the Dead Sea. Isrotel Dead Sea Resort & Spa Ein Bokek, Dead Sea 86980 Israel tel 972 8 668 9666 isrotel.co.il

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GT tested

ROSEWOOD MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS

Guest Quarters: My deluxe room was spacious, comfortable and inviting — all characteristics I was craving. Despite being a bit hungry, I didn’t want to order a full meal given the hour, so the culinary arrival amenity of crostini and a delicious goat cheese spread was a welcome sight and satisfied my peckish snacking urge. Morning meetings called, so I quickly unpacked and checked a few emails before calling it a night.

Features of the deluxe room included a 42-inch plasma television, a minibar, bottled water, high-speed internet access and Natura Bissē amenities created exclusively for Rosewood.

The room opened into a short hallway, with the bathroom to the right. My king-sized bed proved exceedingly comfortable, offering a quality night of sleep. Plenty of

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seating and working options included a sitting area with a chair and settee, a desk and a bench situated at the foot of the bed. Suite accommodations are also available.

Services/Amenities: Luckily, we had time to enjoy a dining experience at Mansion Restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Dining on the enclosed patio was a wonderful, light-filled way to start our day, and my huevos rancheros ensured the day was off to a tasty beginning.

Alfresco dining is available at Terrace. In addition to meeting and event space, massage services are offered, alongside a state-of-the-art fitness center and pool. As for location, Rosewood Mansion offers a centralized hideaway perfect for business or leisure travelers to the Big D.

◆ I was disappointed to arrive after last call at Mansion Bar, as the property is well-known for the Mansion Gin & Tonic, made with juniper gin, housemade tonic, kaffir lime leaf and grapefruit zest. I hope to return in the future to sample the libation. ◆ I enjoyed learning more about Caroline Rose Hunt, a Dallas native and the founder of Rosewood Hotels & Resorts.

Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd.

Dallas, TX 75219 tel 214 559 2100 rosewoodhotels.com

PHOTOS: © ROSEWOOD MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK

Arrival/Check-In: Dallas was one stop on a whirlwind U.S. trip that also included visits to Miami and Los Angeles in five days. I arrived in Dallas with my former colleague late on a Tuesday night, and after dealing with a rental car snafu, we ended up arriving later than expected for our one-night stay at one of Dallas’ finest hotels, Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. Given the late hour, the speedy check-in process was much appreciated; however, I do wish we’d had more time overall to enjoy the hotel.

◆ The staff made our stay, albeit short, especially memorable. As we checked out before breakfast, we made arrangements to have our rental car loaded and waiting at a specific time. The staff made sure we were on our way and on time for our next meeting.

GT tested

ONE&ONLY ROYAL MIRAGE Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

TOP TAKEAWAYS

PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Arrival/Check-In: After a long morning and early afternoon of touring Dubai, we checked into Room 337 of the One&Only Royal Mirage. We were swiftly taken to our Superior Gold Club suite, fully equipped with a butler and access to the club lounge. Check-in is through a side entrance and on the third floor for the Gold Club. This makes coming and going private, which is popular in Dubai and the Gulf. Our bags were immediately delivered and we settled in swiftly, as we had to leave at 4 p.m. for a desert safari that evening.

Guest Quarters: The suite was breathtaking, designed with an old-world feel with rich, dark wood furniture and an unmistakable Arabian feel. A dining area with a minibar sat to the right as we entered, followed by a large sitting area with plenty of comfortable chairs and a sofa positioned around a coffee table. Beyond, a set of sliding doors led to a balcony with stunning views; as it was a holiday weekend, a lot of yachts and boats were anchored in the Gulf, and those on board were having a wonderful time playing music and enjoying the sun.

Back in the suite, the second room contained the master bedroom with a king-sized bed, well-appointed with similarly designed furniture. The oversized bathroom featured double bowl

sinks sitting on marble counters, an LCD television, a walk-in overhead shower and a large soaking tub where you can relax and think of your day’s touring.

An iPhone docking station, 40-inch HD LCD television set with satellite television channels and a DVD player completed the room amenities.

Services/Amenities: As we were on the third-floor club level, the check-in and service were outstanding for whatever we required. Breakfast was served every morning in the club, and our butler and concierge helped direct each day’s adventure.

We had traveled and toured so much we took the second day off to relax at the beach, steps from our room. We met a friend in Dubai and treated her to dinner at the Beach Bar and Grill, which sits beyond the pool and right on the Gulf. It is a truly charming restaurant with a fun staff where you can enjoy steaks and fish while gazing over the sea.

We also took the One&Only shuttle boat to The Palm property and enjoyed a wonderful spot on the dock for lunch at 101 Dining Lounge and Bar. We sat outside and enjoyed watching a wedding shower brunch and all the boats coming in and leaving the dock. I was told this is a local favorite, as is the Jetty Lounge just off the One&Only Royal Mirage dock.

◆ Be prepared for the Dubai sun. We purchased a lastminute, no-name suntan lotion in the airport, which was totally ineffective, and ended up with a nice beach burn! ◆ One&Only Royal Mirage is a lovely property facing the Gulf and sitting on some 65 acres of manicured grounds. ◆ The property sits adjacent to the stem of the Palm Jumeirah, offering opportunities for boaters to dock and visit and for guests to ferry over to the One&Only The Palm.

One&Only Royal Mirage Al Sufouh Road Jumeirah Beach Dubai, United Arab Emirates tel 971 4 399 9999 oneandonlyresorts.com

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GT tested

FOUR SEASONS RESORT BORA BORA Reviewed by Katie Skrzek

Guest Quarters: Walking into the suite took my breath away.

Our overwater bungalow suite boasted stunning views of Mount Otemanu. The spacious living room opened to a patio with two lounge chairs, a table with chairs, a private dock for jumping into the ocean and complimentary snorkeling equipment. The bathroom also opened to the patio and featured an oversized tub, separate rainfall shower and his-and-hers vanities.

The king-sized bed overlooked Mount Otemanu. The suite was decorated in teak wood furnishings and a French Polynesian décor. The accommodations felt exotic and luxurious yet cozy.

Services/Amenities: The property houses four restaurants in addition to offering in-room dining and private experiences. Tere Nui features a spectacular breakfast buffet with traditional local cuisine and French classics alongside other favorites like eggs, toast and fruit.

Arii Moana is ideal for a romantic meal. Open only for dinner, the menu blends Polynesian and French dishes. Located right on the

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beach, Faré Hoa Beach Bar & Grill has a relaxed vibe during the day and transforms into an intimate outdoor lounge for dinner. Be sure to enjoy a tropical cocktail along with your meal. The casual Sunset Restaurant and Bar specializes in fantastic sushi and other Asian-inspired dishes — we kept going back for the sushi, sashimi and nigiri.

Complimentary activities are available daily. Stand-up paddleboards and single or double kayak use is complimentary. One afternoon we kayaked around the lagoon then utilized our snorkeling equipment to view the local aquatic life. We booked a beginner tennis lesson with the on-site tennis pro, though specialized lessons are available for more seasoned players. We took advantage of the 24-hour fitness center several times. The floor-to-ceiling windows offered beautiful views of the South Pacific. We indulged in a couple’s spa treatment while overlooking the Pacific Ocean — a must for any guest. The traditional Polynesian treatment was made even more relaxing by the serene sounds of the ocean.

The resort offers an extensive list of Four Seasons-hosted, off-site excursions to book including scuba diving and shark and bat ray feeding.

The concierge can also suggest and organize island activities. The concierge booked us a hike on the main island with a local guide who took us through the lush greenery and regaled us with stories about Bora Bora. The unique adventure made our trip more memorable.

If the goal for your trip is relaxation, there are plenty of opportunities to lounge on the beach, at the lagoon, by the pool or on your own private patio.

The Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora is the ideal destination for a honeymoon, anniversary or trip of a lifetime.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ The property’s concierge offers currency exchange without a transaction fee. ◆ Access to the spa facilities — steam room, plunge pools and sensory shower — is complimentary for guests, though treatments must be booked. ◆ The flavored rums at the Sunset Restaurant and Bar are not to be missed.

Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora BP 547, Motu Tehotu 98730 Bora-Bora, French Polynesia tel 689 40 603 130 fourseasons.com

PHOTO: © FOUR SEASONS RESORT BORA BORA

Arrival/Check-In: We arrived at Bora Bora Airport and made our way to the Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora’s dedicated transfer boat. By chance, we were the only couple arriving on the island on that flight, so we enjoyed a private boat transfer to the property while wearing flower leis. It offered the perfect start to our honeymoon. Sailing up to the property is an experience I’ll never forget. The beautiful turquoise waters and exotic overwater bungalows provided a warm welcome. Once on land, one of the front desk attendants took us to a golf cart while the bellhop grabbed our luggage. She drove us directly to our suite for check-in.

2017 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 | Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address

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OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program ______________________________________________ Rental Car Company____________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_____________________________________________________ MICE City _____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service___________________________________________________________ Wireless Phone Service in the World______________________________________ Noise-Canceling Headset Brand__________________________________________ Luggage Brand_________________________________________________________ Photographic Brand_____________________________________________________ Ride Share_____________________________________________________________ Hotel App______________________________________________________________ Airline App_____________________________________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card_________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card _________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events __________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program____________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card______________________________________ Rental Car Affinity Card__________________________________________________

one on one

BRAD C.H. SHIH Director, Taiwan Tourism Bureau, Los Angeles What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Select a role you know you will enjoy for years.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: In 2011 Taiwan turned 100 years old, and there was a celebration at the Yehliu Geopark. On the morning of the New Year, my family and I hiked to the top of the hillside and watched the sunrise.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Talk with the locals wherever you go. They will help you find hidden gems within the city you would never expect.

Best advice for business travelers: Use Taiwan as your hub into Asia! We are the perfect first stop or resting place for your travels into the region, with approximately 109 flight options from North America.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What unique experiences can our premium travelers expect from a visit to Taiwan?

Taiwan has natural hot springs all over the island for you to discover. After a day of travel or intense meetings, the natural waters are relaxing and rejuvenating.

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My first project was making Yehliu Geopark, featuring the 4,000-year-old natural sculpture called The Queen’s Head, into a well-known travel destination.

Little-known fact about you: I travel often for work, but I am truly a homebody on my days off.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years?

Focusing on millennial travelers is becoming important,

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and we must adjust — if not add — specialized programs to welcome them. This can include adventurous travel like cycling tours, modern hostels and updated public transport.

Best career advice you’ve received: I was once told this analogy: “Plant a happy seed and you will have a happy farm.” If you do more for society and give back to the people, the good thoughts and intentions will come back to you.

What type of gourmet cuisine experiences do you recommend we try? You must try a traditional Taiwanese breakfast. One popular choice is the fried bread roll or youtiao, which you can dip into soy milk or a sesame paste. The seafood in Taiwan is also a must-try, as it’s freshly caught off local shores and used by many of the farm-to-table restaurants popping up in Taipei.

PHOTO: © TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU, LOS ANGELES

Name: Brad C.H. Shih Title: Director Company, city: Taiwan Tourism Bureau; Los Angeles, Calif.

Number of employees: 10 in the United States and 250plus in Taipei Recent project: We are underway in a large public relations project, bringing Taiwan to the mainstream, with initiatives like trade shows and reaching the millennial market.

First job: Right out of university I started my career as a public servant.

Tell our readers about events in Taiwan to look forward to in 2017. Taiwan has four major events coming for 2017. The Lantern Festival, celebrating the New Year, will be held in Yunlin County. Taiwan Fun on the Tropic of Cancer (which cuts right across the center of Taiwan) is happening throughout the summer and will have concerts, triathlons and local foods.

Moving right into the fall is the Cycling Festival held in locations like Sun Moon Lake through November. The Hot Spring & Fine-Cuisine Carnival runs from October through January and highlights the unique health care aspects of thermal springs and the demand for a modern, healthy diet.

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one on one

PETER STREBEL Chief Marketing Officer, Omni Hotels & Resorts

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from a stay at an Omni Hotels & Resorts property? No two properties are the same. The look and feel of each property is guided by the city or region, making each experience feel and look different for each property you visit. However, you receive the same warm hospitality and customer engagement wherever you go.

Name: Peter Strebel Title: Chief marketing officer Company, city: Omni Hotels & Resorts; Dallas, Texas Number of employees: 19,800 nationally Recent project: In 2016 we launched Say Goodnight to Hunger. For every direct booking on our website, Omni makes a donation to Feeding America.

First job: Desk clerk at an oceanside resort in the Hamptons Little-known fact about you: Even as a small child, I was interested in hotels. I remember building resorts using blocks and home items.

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YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Voice activation is going to be incorporated into hotels more and more as we move into the future.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: This may sound corny, but Walt Disney World with my children is a memory that will always stick out. The water fountain that talked was magical.

What is the best career advice you’ve received? Network and keep in touch with your contacts.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Plan your wardrobe. I use an Excel spreadsheet before a trip which helps me be an efficient packer.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Love what you do. If you don’t love it, you won’t work hard or get ahead.

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Best advice for business travelers: Once you’re on the road, you’re not in control, so let it go.

Three Omni Hotels & Resorts are coming soon: Omni Frisco Hotel, Omni Hotel at the Battery Atlanta and Omni Louisville Hotel. Tell our readers about these properties.

We are excited about these additions to Omni. The Omni Frisco will be located in the Dallas Cowboys’ super complex and have a sports theme; it will be one of the few upscale hotels in the area. Omni at the Battery Atlanta will be in the Battery complex next to the Atlanta Braves’ stadium, with rooms overlooking the stadium. Coming in 2018, the Omni Louisville will have an urban speakeasy feel with a bourbon theme in mind.

PHOTO: © OMNI HOTELS & RESORTS

Omni’s Polling for Cocktails promotion, timed to the 2016 election, proved wildly popular.

Can travelers expect other similar timely and unique offerings in 2017? We have fun with new food and beverage initiatives every year.

In 2017 our focus and theme will be Wines of Roja – Flavors of the World, bringing wines and interesting foods from Spain to all our hotels.

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technology

EASY DOES IT Have fun with the latest innovations and improvements. BY AKHIL KALEPU

TESLA MODEL X

ROLI BLOCKS

BOSE SOUNDTOUCH 300

Smartphones broke new ground for electronic musical instruments, introducing millions of budding artists to the intuitive magic of touchscreen synthesizers. The limits were soon reached by more demanding instrumentalists, realizing a hard glass surface is not conducive to music.

Roli is one of many companies seeking to fix this, creating innovative devices easy to pick up yet complex enough to be expressive instruments. Roli Blocks can be your drum pad, clip launcher, synthesizer and arpeggiator, all in one handheld package. $179.95 and up. roli.com

For a long time, consumers were stuck between stock television speakers and a full-on home theater system. Surround sound is cheaper than ever, but for people with small apartments and a lack of technical know-how, soundbars offer an attractive alternative. The Soundtouch 300 is made of sleek metal and glass, giving it a sharp look, especially under a large LCD. Bose’s 38.5-inch speaker comes with a wall mount and remote, but the best part is it fits right into an upgraded surround-sound system. $699.95. bose.com

XBOX ONE S Microsoft’s latest gaming console offers a major improvement over the Xbox One released three years ago, giving the Sony PlayStation 4 plenty of competition. It’s 40 percent smaller with a clean look and can also stand vertically, but most exciting is the implementation of 4K and HDR video, increasing screen resolution by 400 percent as well as picture quality. If you’re looking to play today, the console comes in a few bundles with Madden 17, Halo or Gears of War 4, but serious gamers might want to wait for Microsoft’s next-gen console, dubbed Project Scorpio, set for release in late 2017. $299 and up. xbox.com

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PHOTOS: © TESLA, © ROLI, © BOSE, © XBOX

Tesla makes established car companies nervous, having won the prestigious Golden Steering Wheel award for the Tesla Model X, or as the company calls it, “the future of the SUV.” The family-oriented vehicle has an eye for technology, seen in Tesla’s staple touchscreen console which connects to a variety of entertainment and information resources like Google Maps and Pandora. In addition to a basic autopilot mode, the Model X features auto-adjusting seats, environment sensors and the ability to go from 0 to 60 in just 3.2 seconds. The falcon-wing doors, on the other hand, are pretty but generally considered impractical. $74,000. tesla.com

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wine & spirits

REDISCOVER SICILY One of Italy’s oldest wine regions holds pleasant surprises. BY EUNICE FRIED

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PHOTO: © CHEYENNE COHEN

SICILY HAS BEEN MAKING wine for millennia and today claims more vineyards than any other wine region in Italy.

Yet it has only recently garnered international recognition for producing high-quality table wines. Some come from international varieties, but more interesting are those from ancient grapes grown in Sicily since the time of the Greeks.

An island of long, warm, virtually rainless growing seasons, Sicily has long been known for Marsala, a

fortified wine; for grappa, a brandy distilled from grape pomace; and for Moscato, a dessert wine.

Now, however, its table wines are collecting kudos for Sicily, and after tasting a batch of them recently at New York’s Chelsea Market restaurant, I understand why. All are well-made and in many cases offer new taste experiences. And they are reasonably priced. The first surprise was Tasca d’Almerita Brut Contea di Sclafani 2009 ($30), a deep-flavored sparkling wine made 100 percent of Chardonnay that is rich and fruity with a vivacious acidity.

After this sparkler, I concentrated on wines made from Sicily’s own grapes. Etna Bianco Pietradolce Archineri 2014 ($35), from the Carricante grape, a fresh, tangy white wine of medium body, presents a bouquet that melds floral notes with hints of apple.

Perricone, an ancient Sicilian red grape once popular on the island, fell into disuse and was recently rediscovered. In Feudo Montoni’s Perricone 2014 ($18), the grape produces a round, rather intense wine with striking fruit aromas, especially of plums, in its nose.

The most outstanding and most important indigenous Sicilian red grape — Nero d’Avola — has been used in winemaking in Sicily for centuries, mostly as a blending grape. Today it is newly appreciated as a varietal that gives wine a dark color, high tannins and sturdy body. Sicilia Rosso Hiera Hauner 2012 ($20) is a fine example of wine made from Nero d’Avola. Ink-dark in color, it features a firm structure with a bouquet that reminds one of cherries and dark berries; a spicy flavor; and a long, satisfying finish.

And these are just a few of the exciting wines now found in Sicily.

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spoils

HEART’S DESIRE Express your love with stylish sweets and treats. BY: PATRICK T. COOPER AND TERRY A. SPRUNGER SPOIL THEM ROTTEN, WHY DON’T YOU? There is no doubt February is all about the ultimate love statements.

Shower your lover with gifts of desire and luxury. From hand-dipped sweet treats to brilliant exotic diamonds, your expressions of affection will send your significant other into blissful daydreams.

Philip Stein There is no time like Philip Stein.

Of course, we chose a red wristband for passion. Revel in beauty, balanced with design elements to help the wearer “live in tune” with Earth’s natural frequencies every day and on all occasions. $250. philipstein.com

Kataoka Jewelry Designer Yoshinobu Kataoka is the brilliant mastermind of Kataoka Jewelry, founded on the goal of making women who rarely wear jewelry want to wear jewelry. Lavish pairings from rose emerald sapphires to round, brilliant-cut diamonds make this brand highly sought after. The talented craftsmen and women of Kataoka design one product at a time to present perfection to the consumer. $1,680–2,800.

Peryton Give her the Peryton Insouciant for your next weekend getaway. Functionality at its finest, this classic cream cross-body handbag will have her draped in bespoke brilliance. Designer Gina Love infuses passion and affection of artistic craftsmanship to create limited quantities of immaculate leather goods. Make her less pedestrian and the polar opposite of ordinary with a rare gift from Peryton. $3,620. peryton.com

Laurent Gerbaud Belgian chocolates — need we say more? Make an indelible impression with a romantic rendezvous: Do not just buy the chocolates; make it an adventure. A quick weekend jaunt to Brussels to create your chocolates with world-renowned chocolatier Laurent Gerbaud will illustrate thoughtfulness, preparation and planning. Be sweet, make the sweets and surprise your sweetie with chocolate by Laurent Gerbaud. $69. chocolatsgerbaud.be

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PHOTOS: © KATAOKA JEWELRY, © PHILIP STEIN, © PERYTON, © LAURENT GERBAUD

kataoka-jewelry.com

Keith and James Flatter him or her with a fedora. Designer James Keith helps you top off your ensemble with amazing millinery. Be the red in the room. The signature red suede brim of each hat is eye-catching while screaming passion, style and ... “Will you be my Valentine?” $495. keithandjames.com

KZ Noel A black heart for Valentine’s Day? Well, yes, especially if it is an interpretation from designer KZ Noel. Grab your global-influenced jewel, layer it and pepper your sweetie pie with this amazing collection. Buyer beware: Once you start with KZ Noel, your addiction will long to be fed from season to season. The good news is you can rest assured your neck and wrist will sparkle and dance. $2,200.

PHOTOS: © KZ NOEL, © KEITH AND JAMES, © SARA HANNA, © BILL PEARY, © SIMON G. JEWELRY

kznoel.com

Becker Vineyard Rosé Taste the rosé. Jump on the jet and make it a date if you really want to say “I love you” at Becker Vineyards, along the Fredericksburg Wine Road in Texas. Liquid libation always makes a thoughtful and provocative gift, and perhaps the rosé will set the mood. $19.95. beckervineyards.com

Jada Loveless Keep it classic and timeless this Valentine’s Day. Authentic alligator is never not cool.

Jada Loveless tickles and delights with flirty, vibrant colors in exotic skins. This time, wow with the pink clutch. You are sure to be a winner in the Valentine’s Day gifting category. $6,900. jadaloveless.com

Simon G. Diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but 18k gold and rubies are no slouch, either. Simon G. makes it easy for onlookers to gawk and for any jaw to drop. Fit for a queen, this ultimate luxury brand is what Valentine’s Day is all about.

Celebrate, live and love in grand style with these exquisite gems and baubles. $2,970. simongjewelry.com

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spas

CALIFORNIA REVIVAL Renew with an indulgent retreat at Spa Montage Beverly Hills. BY KIMBERLY KROL

WATER THERAPY:

Spa Montage mineral pool PHOTO: © MONTAGE BEVERLY HILLS

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WHILE I AM NEVER one to turn down an opportunity to visit a spa, there are certain times in our lives when our bodies crave a moment of relaxation and Zen. Despite having visited a spa just a couple of weeks prior, I found myself in just that predicament during a late October visit to Los Angeles.

Here’s where I was: Fresh off a seven-day trip to Doha, Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Casablanca, I’d arrived home from a late-night drive from Washington Dulles International Airport.

I worked the following day, then departed for Los Angeles one day later for two days of back-to-back events. Oh, and on top of all of that, I’d fallen ill on my previous trip and my body was still reeling from whatever virus was working its way through my system and the associated lethargy. So when I arrived for a two-

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night stay at the urban sanctuary that is Montage Beverly Hills, I was more than ready for a bit of a reprieve.

Everything about my stay felt like an indulgent retreat, even though I was in the city on business with a schedule of meetings set for both days. My executive suite was massive, beckoning me to sink into the couch or fall into the king-sized bed as soon as I entered. With so much space to stretch out, it was the lap of luxury. The suite boasted 1.5 bathrooms, a living room, a bedroom and a walk-in closet as big as some hotel rooms.

I enjoyed two alfresco meals at Montage Beverly Hills’ new Georgie restaurant, a Geoffrey Zakarian outlet named for his child. Both the on-site restaurant and Garden Bar underwent recent renovations to the décor and concept. Georgie now serves

breakfast, lunch and dinner from a modern American menu and with indoor and outdoor seating. Other culinary options include The Rooftop Grill, £10 and in-room dining.

Needless to say, my stay was going pretty perfectly before I even ventured to Spa Montage Beverly Hills for my 90-minute Elements of Wellness Signature Therapy. The facility houses the exclusive West Coast location for L.Raphael Genéve — technologically advanced skincare, beauty and anti-aging treatments. With a décor reminiscent of Spanish Colonial Revival, the 20,000-square-foot space offers a range of experiences from facial therapies and technologies to body therapies, massages, couples treatments, nail services and organic treatments; a fitness center with scheduled classes; a boutique; and the Kim Vo Salon.

The Elements of Wellness are signature experiences performed by Spa Master Therapists who undergo hundreds of hours of specialized education to customize therapies best suited to the spa-goer’s unique needs.

Through consultation and consideration of each individual’s constitution, Master Therapists design bespoke treatments that meet the patron’s needs and offer transformation, rejuvenation and a stillness of mind.

During my 90-minute journey, my therapist used a combination of bodywork offerings to create a therapy that would bring me balance and renewal — both elements I desperately craved following my whirlwind few weeks. The result was a blend of traditional massage styles, aromatherapy, gentle connective tissue massage and balancing reflexology. The holistic therapy marries with aromatic oils to round out the relaxing treatment, interrupting stress, remedying aches, strengthening the immune system and renewing vitality.

Before arriving at Montage Beverly Hills, I completed a Personal Lifestyle Profile, indicating my problem areas, which alerted my therapist to the techniques best suited for my Elements of Wellness. I’d been experiencing chronic sinus issues, with congestion and pain, as well as the general upper-body tension resulting from pulling, pushing and carrying bulky bags around the world.

I’d also been dealing with a Morton’s neuroma in my right foot for several years, which decided to act up and cause numbness and pain in the weeks leading up to my treatment.

As a result of my symptoms, the obvious focus was on my upper back, feet and head/neck/scalp area. My therapist noted she could feel the pain in my foot as she performed reflexology on the area, and that, interestingly enough, reflexology in the foot is intricately tied to the sinuses. The technique would prove to benefit both ailments.

To be honest, the 90 minutes were — in a word — bliss. That extra half hour felt indulgent, and I found myself drifting off for a majority of the treatment. Over the next few days I felt clarity regarding my head congestion and pressure I hadn’t experienced in months. And I slept better and deeper that evening than I had in the weeks prior to my visit. I’m betting that might have had something to do with the Montage bedding, as well.

Floating seems an apt description of my departure from the spa and back to my guestroom, and I continued to reap the rewards for weeks to follow.

RELAXING RESPITE:

Treatment room

PHOTO: © MONTAGE BEVERLY HILLS

SPA MONTAGE BEVERLY HILLS Montage Beverly Hills 225 N. Canon Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 tel 310 860 7840 montagehotels.com

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chefs

SEASONED WITH SOPHISTICATION

BY KIMBERLY KROL

PHOTOS: © INTERCONTINENTAL L.A.

Chef Jonathan Wood creates a California cuisine with global flair.

CHEF JONATHAN WOOD, executive chef and director of food and beverage, InterContinental Los Angeles Century City at Beverly Hills, incorporates elements of the authentic Korean dishes and preparation methods from his childhood in Kansas City. Combined with touches of traditional comfort foods and global cuisine, he delivers wildly creative but approachable cuisine, cuisine travelers can now sample at the hotel’s new signature restaurant, Mari Los Angeles.

It represents the final phase of the property’s multiyear, multimillion-dollar renovation.

Mari not only showcases Chef Wood’s passions but also those of the hotel owner, who was inspired by her Japanese heritage and global travels. The menu is a mix of influences, from Italy and Indonesia to Peru and India. Serving three meals a day, Mari greatly benefits from the abundance of farm-fresh ingredients in the Southern California city.

Before joining InterContinental Los Angeles Century City at Beverly Hills in 2008 and being promoted to executive chef in 2010, Chef Wood graduated with honors from The Culinary Institute of America and cooked at some of the finest restaurants in Boston, Kansas City and Los Angeles.

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR COOKING/MENUS? I’ve traveled to some amazing places in my life: Asia, Europe and Latin America, to name just a few. Experiencing different styles of cooking (from rustic to elaborate) and unique or indigenous ingredients is really exciting. I think these experiences translate to chefs and travelers, both. Exploring the culture of food, socializing around food and learning from locals is what inspires me. And when it’s time to return home, it’s a pleasure bringing these experiences back into the kitchen and sharing with my culinary team.

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Iron Chef Sakai; when I was young, I watched a lot of Iron Chef Japan on television. Chef Hiroyuki Sakai always seemed cool, calm and collected on screen. And his chef skills in the kitchen were amazing. In 2012 I was fortunate enough to actually cook beside him at a fundraising event in Los Angeles. Initially it was intimidating for me, but that didn’t last long. Chef Sakai was so kind and generous with his knowledge that I became an even bigger fan, if possible.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? I am classically trained in French cooking, and my style continues to embrace other influences.

However, I’m emotionally connected to food through my childhood and family. As a KoreanAmerican growing up in the Midwest, the best dishes were always found on my mother’s or grandmother’s table.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Tokyo — that city is packed with delicious food.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? There are chefs doing interesting blends with food, science and art. And I appreciate the creativity and hard work that goes into those preparations. But I’m also seeing a lot more “going back to the basics” and keeping things simpler. That is, letting ingredients shine for themselves by scaling back recipes and the number of components in dishes.

InterContinental Los Angeles Century City at Beverly Hills 2151 Avenue of the Stars Los Angeles, CA 90067 tel 310 284 6500 intercontinentallosangeles.com

cruising

PICK A THEME Whatever your passion, there’s a cruise for that.

ELVIS MAY HAVE LEFT the building, but it’s only because his ship’s come in, and you can join the King on a number of upcoming Elvisthemed cruises. A five-night Bermuda cruise departing Baltimore Oct. 14 this year aboard Royal Caribbean’s Grandeur of the Seas is just one example. Elvis imitators and tribute artists will also entertain passengers during Royal Caribbean’s weeklong 14th Annual Memories of the King Birthday Cruise aboard the Allure of the Seas sailing the Eastern Caribbean from Fort Lauderdale come Jan. 21, 2018.

Cruises with a theme rate among the most popular offerings at sea, with literally hundreds of special-interest itineraries available.

Themed cruises sell out fast, filling staterooms with fans and fanatics of music, food, wine, crafts, sports and even cats, so book early.

Some themed cruises cast their spell over an entire ship, and some are simply add-ons appealing to some passengers during a regular cruise. Either way, a theme, if it’s close to one’s heart, can enhance, if not consume, a voyage.

Music lists among the top cruise themes.

Elvis imitators are just a few of the stars joining Holland America’s lineup on the Malt Shop Memories Cruise through the Caribbean on the ms Eurodam Nov. 5–12. Expect tributes to Dion, Brenda Lee, Jay and the Americans, the Coasters, Buddy Holly and many more, along with an all-hands-on-deck sock hop. Blues lovers might prefer Holland America’s Legendary Rhythm & Blues Cruise #29 departing Oct. 21 from Fort Lauderdale, while Celebrity Cruises announced The Moody Blues Cruise will kick off its 2018 sailings Jan. 2 that year.

And connoisseurs of the classics might be tempted by Ponant’s many music-themed cruises, including the Athens-to-Venice Homage to Callas, the curtain rising May 3.

Wine fanciers have plenty of chances to slake their palates this year. There’s Silversea’s Trentadue Winery Cruise & Tuscany voyage April 22, Regent Seven Seas’ Sbragia Wine Cruise May 31, Seabourn’s America Wine Society & Sullivan Vineyards – Tuscany Tour and Wine Cruise July 4 and AmaWaterways’ St. Francis Winery & Vineyards – Paris & Normandy Aug. 5, just for starters.

Dancers, too, can delight in themed cruises, ranging from Royal Caribbean’s Dance Cruise Europe – British Isles venture June 27 to Carnival’s Polka Dreams @ Sea – Polka Cruise April 2. Those with money in the bank can invest in a financial-themed cruise, such as Crystal Cruises’ 2018 Chairman’s Circle Wealth Cruise May 16 or Princess Cruises’ The Stock Whisperer Trading Cruise July 9. Sky watchers are the perfect observers of Cunard

BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

ROCKING THE BOAT:

Malt Shop Memories Cruise show (above); and an Elvis imitator entertaining guests during the Memories of the King Birthday Cruise (left) PHOTOS: © STARVISTA LIVE, © MAHWEY PRODUCTIONS LLC

s run Theme cruise ha the gamut, wit for special focus nearly every

Line’s Queen Mary 2’s World Space Week blasting off Oct. 6. And motor sport fans can rev up for Azamara’s Monaco Grand Prix 2017 voyage May 24 (or be at the starting line for next year’s cruise May 21, 2018).

There are hundreds of other choices. Every cruise line has its own special themes. Not even cat lovers are excluded. The annual Meow Meow Cruise, featuring mixers, group dancing, trivia contests and scavenger hunts (but no cats) will be held on board Carnival’s Victory on a four-night, round-trip cruise from Miami Oct. 23 as it claws its way across the Western Caribbean.

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om passenger, fr s to poker player s. polka dancer

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Inside Access Chase celebrates its 2016 GT Tested Reader Survey award win with a once-in-a-lifetime event.

BY KIMBERLY KROL | PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK

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INSIDE ACCESS FROM CHASE won the 2016 GT Tested Reader Survey award for Best Credit Card Special Events. And it’s easy to understand why our readers voted the program tops: Inside Access offers select Chase cardholders exclusive and exciting entry to experiences with celebrities, culinary and cultural events and behind-the-scenes previews in the worlds of sports and fashion.

In January, Inside Access from Chase celebrated the GT Tested Reader Survey win at an exclusive event at City Winery in New York City. The cocktail party included a walk-around dinner and celebrity-hosted interactive sports and culinary stations. Favorite celebrity all-stars from past events included Chef Anne Burrell; Chef François Payard; Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto; Joe Namath; Olympic medalist and fencer Tim Morehouse; and Max Weinberg.

Global Traveler was on hand to join in the festivities and bring you inside the exclusive celebration.

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feature

Driving the Dream Take the ride of your life behind the wheel of a luxury auto or exotic supercar.

BY LOIS FRIEDLAND

ARE DREAMS OF DRIVING a Porsche 911 GT3, a Ferrari 488GTB or a Lamborghini Huracán LP610-4 helping you escape on a rough work day? Can you picture yourself piloting a Land Rover on an obstacle-strewn off-road track? Feel the need for speed while stuck in city traffic? We have the solution. Set yourself behind the wheel of a luxury car or a Formula 1-style race car and turn those urges into reality.

Opportunities to drive ultra-high-end cars on racetracks or country roads, to take Land Rovers off road or to drive race cars at 100-plus mph are plentiful. You can experience these highs for a few hours on racetracks or streets in cities from Los Angeles to Barcelona to St. Petersburg, Russia. Wouldn’t it be fun to wrap a trip around a driving experience at resorts such as the

HIT THE ROAD:

Gotham Dream Car Tour PHOTO: © GOTHAM DREAM CARS

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w r ho nde o w e r driv Eve can d u o y spee for fast t l i or r bu fact a ca ear f e h uld re t r wo O befo ? a s in rive kick to d r e was pref w it o you h ar en? ry c driv luxu e b t to buil

Equinox in Vermont, or to combine it with another experience like viewing the northern lights in Finland?

You don’t have to be a Porsche owner to attend one of Porsche’s programs. The car company operates two Porsche Experience Centers in the United States, one in Atlanta and one in Los Angeles. Both offer a variety of experiences, from piloting the latest models on tracks designed to show how well the cars perform to comparing the way mid- versus rear-engine Porsches perform. At the Porsche Driving School you pilot cars on a track that hosts the Indy Circuit: Barber Motor-sports Park in Birmingham, Ala. Here, Porsche offers an intensive one-day precision driving course and a two-day performance-driving course. If you love to drive fast, the next steps are the masters courses.

Some drivers discover one experience driving a Porsche isn’t enough. “I went for the first time six years ago, and it hooked me,” says Michael Levy. Since then, he and wife Gina have taken several masters courses. “It’s the most fun and excitement I’ve had as an adult. More specifically, working on nailing a turn and getting better and better and better as you tenaciously focus

on improving your line and maintaining consistency throughout the course.”

Gina Levy enjoys the courses just as much. “Teaching me the skills, addressing my concerns and most importantly pushing me to believe in myself makes my time at the Porsche Driving School very special.”

If you want to get a taste of driving luxury cars around a track or on roads, several companies offer the experience at racetracks and other locations around North America. In most cases you’ll get some instruction and safety information before you get into the car and start driving a Lamborghini, Porsche, Ferrari or other exotic auto. If you don’t want to actually drive a car, many companies provide the option of sitting in the passenger seat while a professional driver takes the wheel.

Gotham Dream Cars, for example, lets you drive six different exotic cars during its three-hour Dream Car Tour.

Choices range from Aston Martins and Bentleys to Ferraris and Lamborghinis. The company also offers the Dream Car Sprint for a quick experience and the Dream Car Dash if you want to rev an engine on a professional racetrack. The company

FEBRUARY 2017

RUGGED TERRAIN:

Off-road Land Rover tour in Australia PHOTO: © LAND ROVER

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TOP SPEED: Xtreme Xperience allows drivers to race a car at speeds exceeding 140 mph.

PHOTO: © XTREME XPERIENCE

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operates in three locations in California, one in Las Vegas and one in New Jersey.

The Xtreme Xperience runs events at 15 racetracks around the country each year in addition to a full-time operation at NOLA Motorsports Park, a 3,200-foot straightaway track in New Orleans. The company’s Supercar Xperience lets you race a car for three laps with no speed restrictions, so you could reach speeds in excess of 140 mph.

If you prefer motoring cars over rugged off-road tracks, visit a Land Rover Center. There are 33 worldwide, including ones at The Biltmore in North Carolina, Quail Lodge in California and Le Château Montebello in Québec. After crawling up steep inclines, splashing through streams and navigating log crossings, you’ll be pampered at any of these resorts. Options range from a tasting experience to all-day adventures on challenging terrain.

Sometimes, a single ride in a race car can lead to an obsession. Just ask financial analyst David Sear. Five years ago he bought his wife and a friend a racing experience at the Auto

FEBRUARY 2017

Club Speedway in Fontana, Calif. “She’s kind of a motorhead and likes to drive fast.” Her friend backed out at the last minute, so he went instead. “It was so cool. Who would know that buying her that experience would evolve into something that has literally changed my life?”

After that first ride, he started as a student at Rusty Wallace Racing Experience. “I got my feet wet and got hooked. I went to several tracks and started racing on a half-mile track, then I spent a week at Daytona and became speedway certified.” Now he’s sponsored by Rusty Wallace Racing Experience and races its car on the ARCA circuit. “I’m a race car driver now. I’m on Fox Sports 1 or 2 and racing with guys that I’ve idolized.”

Several other companies will also put you on a speedway in a NASCAR Nationwide or Cup-style race car. Packages at The Formula Experience let you pilot a Nemesis SC99 Formula or other race cars on tracks from the Atlanta Speedway to the Pikes Peak International Raceway. If racing in an L Mod or Sprint car on dirt tracks intrigues you, book time during one of the Kenny Wallace Dirt Racing days around the country.

If you’ve thought about making a drive trip through European countries but want someone else to make all the arrangements, contact Autobahn Adventures. The Autobahn Adventures luxury Monaco F1 Grand Prix VIP Tour and the 4 Country Adventure are dream trips for travelers who want to explore parts of Europe self-driving a Porsche. The tours are so popular they fill up quickly, according to Mark Trewartha, who runs the company with wife Tina.

During the all-inclusive, 13-day 4 Country Adventure you’ll drive the 2017 Porsche 911 Carrera through Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy. This year’s all-inclusive, 15-day Monaco tour sold out in three weeks. It includes driving a Porsche 911 Carrera through Germany and Austria, attending the Monaco Grand Prix and sailing on an eight-day cruise on a luxurious yacht.

Trewartha says, “Our guests are primarily Porsche lovers, but our tours appeal to couples who love to travel, enjoy the finer things in life and want to experience Europe from the cockpit of a Porsche 911 sports car. We have built in freedom and flexibility

by programming the navigation system in the car with all the destinations. Each couple travels at their own pace to see the things that interest them along the way.”

Tom Divilio and his wife, Lisa, enjoyed two tours with Autobahn Adventures. He testifies, “Porsches, people, places and preparations that consistently exceed all expectations.”

Luxury watchmaker Roger Dubuis and Chris Welch, who organizes exclusive supercar rallies, put on five über-luxe The Run to Monaco adventures. They arrange to bring travelers’ own cars to the starting point (Venice last year) or rent Ferraris or other supercars for travelers who don’t own a luxury car. As of press time, details for a 2017 trip have not been confirmed.

Warning: Driving luxury cars on European roads, here in the United States or on a track can be addictive. While some people simply want the thrill one time, perhaps as a birthday present or during a corporate outing, others take it to the extreme. Just ask Sear how he feels when on the track. “I’m maxing out at 165 mph literally inches from the wall in the backstretch. I can’t believe I get to do this.”

FEBRUARY 2017

ROAD TO ADVENTURE:

Autobahn Adventures in Switzerland PHOTO: © MARK TREWARTHA

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feature

Every Step You Take Reap the rewards of managing your own business travel.

BY HOLLY RIDDLE

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FEBRUARY 2017

THE MODERN BUSINESS TRAVELER lives in a world of opportunity. With travel trends growing alongside evolving technologies, anything is possible. However, while brands have made strides to meet even the slightest business travel needs and business trips are more customizable than ever, the root of the matter remains the same. Business travel is all about — and relies on — its human aspect.

After all, 42 percent of corporate travelers head out on the road with the main goal of developing and maintaining client and customer relationships. The statistic comes from the latest white paper from the Association of Corporate Travel Executives, which also points toward a greater trend in business travel of focusing on the needs of the actual traveler rather than just the client, using the resources available to turn a once-stressful form of travel into an enjoyable experience. Planning or overseeing your business travel, then, is not merely about getting in front of the client; it’s about making every step of the

way as productive as possible, either on a business or a personal level.

Perhaps the industry can thank millennials for the inclusion of the traveler within the human aspect of business travel. According to one survey from MMGY Global, millennials took an average 7.7 business trips in the past year and expect to increase business travel by 11 percent in the coming year. Pushing the envelope further, more than half say an increase of 11 percent is not enough. They want even more travel, noting it has a highly desirable, positive impact on their job satisfaction.

Regardless of age, however, managing one’s own business travel comes with a special set of challenges which those working with a corporate travel manager don’t always encounter. From booking hotels and flights to following a corporate budget and reporting costs efficiently, preparing for the actual travel is only half the journey.

Upon reaching the destination, one needs to think about ground transportation, client dinner

reservations and emergency services, from travel insurance to evacuation. Beyond the hurdles, though, managing your own travel can also result in a high level of freedom most find beneficial, whether in terms of extending business travel into leisure trips or simply enjoying favorite airlines and hotel chains.

Emerging travel technology certainly makes this management easier, allowing easy booking on travel apps, mobile payments, paperless expense reports and more. Business travelers consistently choose brands which offer the best and newest technology, whether it be a hotel with free, fast WiFi and voice-activated room features (like those now offered at select Aloft locations) or those which allow guests to bypass the front desk by checking in on a mobile device before using that same device as a room key. If it makes the process easier, it attracts this crowd of

Business travelers consistently choose brands which offer the best and newest technology, such as a hotel with free, fast WiFi and voice-activated room features. intrepid globetrotters.

The newest travel technology specifically created for business travelers varies. A recent Global Business Travel Association Foundation study finds a huge increase in the use of any sort of self-service technology to manage business travel, with almost 80 percent of U.S. business travelers indicating a high interest. The more personalized the selfservice technology the better, with many

passengers even willing to offer up some of their personal information to vendors if it means a travel experience tailored to fit their needs. When it comes to apps, they’re most interested in travel tools that allow them to manage flight details, both booking and boarding passes; it’s no wonder that when given a choice, most business travelers would rather manage their air travel themselves than any other part of their trip (MMGY Global). Apps created to allow mobile payments also rank high on the list.

One segment of the industry in particular melds this desire for personalization and technology into the perfect offering for business travelers managing their own itineraries. The sharing economy, both in transportation and accommodations, is growing at an increasing rate, with the majority of business travelers preferring Uber or Lyft to a taxi service or car rental.

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GOING YOUR WAY:

Booking travel online (left), a business traveler arriving at the airport (middle), and a ground transportation stand (right) PHOTOS: © ARTUR MARCINIEC | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MARTINMARK | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CALVIN LEAKE | DREAMSTIME.COM

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BLEISURE:

Combining business and leisure travel with family PHOTO: © NICOELNINO | DREAMSTIME.COM

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According to an American Express Global Business Travel report, the growth in Uber and Lyft usage by business travelers may correlate to a decrease in using premium black cars and traditional car hires by those same travelers.

Airbnb data compiled by Concur from the first part of last year shows a particular increase in usage from business travelers in the technology and academia industries, which is no surprise given tech startups’ affinity for the sharing economy. Business travelers were also most likely to use Airbnb over a traditional hotel when staying in San Francisco — again, no surprise in the tech hub — and London.

However, all this technology and added tools for business travel and the management thereof, while vitally important, aren’t the only solutions for creating a more pleasurable, humanized business travel experience. More business travelers are looking for ways to not only combine business and leisure but also to bring along family members or loved ones as they attempt to manage business travel and their personal lives at the same time. Surprisingly, while millennial business travelers are much more likely to increase the number of business trips taken, they’re also the group most likely to see business travel as a hindrance to their family lives.

Thankfully for many, bleisure travel with or without loved ones is becoming more and more of a possibility. In fact, Concur suggests it may be one of the reasons Airbnb usage spiked. Taking a business trip out of the hotel setting can make it easier for corporate travelers to transition from work to play as they explore more

FEBRUARY 2017

residential, scenic neighborhoods away from financial districts and other places they may spend their work days.

Brands are certainly running with the trend, especially those that feel the need to compete with the sharing economy. Hotwire .com took the term and created its own — the “workventure,” which it applies to those American business travelers polled who are more “savvy, adventurous and spontaneous” than those who fail to “take full advantage of work travel.” According to one J.D. Power report, rental car companies see bleisure travelers as untapped opportunities.

Regardless of personal preferences and favorite travel providers, business travel is undergoing a mammoth change that tosses aside an outdated mode of travel — a one-size-fits-all business trip itinerary offering the same options, same brands and same problems time after time — in lieu of a unique and customized experience flexible enough to provide profits. Beyond corporate revenue, however, the new manner of business travel offers much more. New trends solve longstanding problems in the world of corporate travel by making the journey more satisfactory, through experiences such as bleisure travel, while also more convenient, through the ever-growing range of hotel, airline and independent apps. These changes and more are drawing in a new crowd of millennial travelers who both thrive on and drive the current trends. It all comes down to one rewarding actuality: Managing your business travel has never been so easy, rewarding or at your fingertips.

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May 2011

Globility

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINESS TRAVELERS

ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

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HANGZHOU

fine vines

TEL AVIV

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

TEL AVIV p. 54 XIAMEN p. 62 SANTIAGO DEL COMPOSTELA p. 72 LOIRE VALLEY p. 68 GOA p. 74 AUSTIN p. 60 BOGOTÁ p. 66

AUSTIN p. 60 BOGOTÁ p. 67 GOA p. 74 LOIRE VALLEY p. 68 SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA p. 72 TEL AVIV p. 54 XIAMEN p. 62 ADVENTURE

BUSAN p. 66

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Read GT on your iPhone and iPad. The GT app makes it easy to peruse the current issue, search the archives, bookmark favorites and more.

AS SENIOR MANAGER of food and beverage design and executive chef for United Airlines, Gerry McLoughlin ensures all the culinary options on the carrier taste exceptional, even at 35,000 feet, including those served on the airline’s recently launched Polaris business-class concept. Unique touches in the new premium cabin include chef-designed menus, tempting snack options available throughout the flight and an enticing variety of desserts. Mimosa and Bloody Mary carts will delight passengers on morning flights.

McLoughlin followed completion of his culinary degree with a five-year apprenticeship at Dublin’s iconic The Shelbourne hotel. McLoughlin’s more than 30 years of culinary management experience also took him to Chicago’s well-known The Drake hotel and The Metropolitan Club. As a member of the American Culinary Federation, McLoughlin oversees worldwide menu development for United Airlines.

United Airlines is also the official airline of The Trotter Project, working with Trotter alumni to develop exciting menus for flights. The Trotter Project unites budding talent in the culinary arts and hospitality industries through a variety of mentorship programs.

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR COOKING/MENUS? One of the best aspects about my job is I have the opportunity to travel the world and taste the cuisines and flavors of the destinations we fly from. Each destination brings new aspects to the table — quite literally — and I enjoy working with the team to incorporate these great new flavors in the onboard menu.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? Chef Charlie Trotter; I can honestly tell you the best meal I’ve ever had was at his restaurant. He took pride in breaking the status quo and was extremely adventurous in his cuisine.

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WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? My mother — my first culinary experience was at her apron strings. Her passion was to cook with fresh ingredients and the flavors that resonate from them guided me to search for new ingredients to cook with at home and in the air.

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AT HOME IN THE AIR United Airlines Executive Chef Gerry McLoughlin takes his extensive culinary talents to the sky. BY KIMBERLY KROL

PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES

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OUT ALL NIGHT

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE

The Mandarin edition of Torrontés Tango Global Traveler’s website is written for theI Chinese luxury business traveler. A Mandarin edition of eFlyer complements the website. n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

There is a suggestion of sweet mint and an evocation of orange and peach in Finca La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, followed by a relatively full body and excellent balance. Altogether a pleasing, inviting wine.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear and peach overtones and a gentle reminder of citrus fruits in the mouth. A particularly harmonious wine.

The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) combines keen fruit flavors, herbal notes and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of honey and floral tones.

Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripe fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with citric notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

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WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Hong Kong blends the flavors of East and West with a combination of amazing European foods with the diversity of some absolutely fantastic street food. It’s a beautiful blend of cultures.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? People are really moving more toward handheld items they can enjoy on the go — real food with bold flavors where they can broaden their cultural and culinary horizons.

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Premium Passions New travel products elicit enthusiasm from GT ’s Globility Board.

BY KIMBERLY KROL

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FEBRUARY 2017

In 2012 Global Traveler introduced its Globility IF ONE THING CAN BE SAID about the Board, a group of well-traveled, vetted subscribreaders of Global Traveler, it is that they are a ers formed to serve as a conduit for information passionate bunch — passionate about travel, for both ourselves and for passionate about the In 2012 Global Traveler our clients — the travel industry, passionate about industry providers these the publication. That introduced its Globility Board, enthusiasm was on full a group of well-traveled, vetted readers utilize on a regular basis. Our third Globility display in October 2016 subscribers formed to serve as Board meeting brought our when members of the a conduit for information. in-the-know members to the Global Traveler Globility City of Angels, where United Board convened at the Airlines, Saudi Arabian Airlines and Global Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills for a day of Traveler were able to showcase various products meetings and presentations focused on one of and receive the valuable feedback of the group. their favorite topics — premium travel.

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills proved the perfect host venue for the meetings, which kicked off with a welcome dinner at the hotel’s Le Jardin French outdoor patio and alfresco The Aviary, designed to host intimate dinners and receptions. With a combination of Hollywood glamour, European elegance and French sophistication, the property is known for executing first-rate events and meetings. The nine on-site meeting rooms offer natural light from floor-to-ceiling windows, 14-foot-high ceilings and soundproof walls — all characteristics greatly appreciated by our group as we set up for a jam-packed day in the Santa Monica Room. For lunch we made great use of the upper pool lounge space, soaking up the midday California sunshine. Our group also enjoyed the endless comforts of the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ guestrooms and took time to savor other on-site amenities, including the

WARM WELCOME:

(Clockwise from top left) Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills exterior, Estérel Restaurant, Santa Monica Room, three views of the Globility Board meeting in the Santa Monica Room, and Le Jardin French outdoor patio PHOTOS: © SOFITEL BEVERLY HILLS, © GLOBAL TRAVELER

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CLASSY COMFORT:

United Airlines’ Polaris amenities (above), and bed (right) PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES

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state-of-the-art fitness center and Estérel Restaurant.

Maria Walter, managing director, product and brand strategy, United Airlines, took the Globility Board through the vision and entire process — from conception to implementation — of the airline’s new and improved businessclass concept, Polaris, which subsequently debuted Dec. 1, 2016. Many of our Globility Board members are devoted to United Airlines, making the excitement in the room for the new product palpable.

The 12 product concepts behind Polaris — sleep, productivity, wellness, epicurean, modern luxury, entertainment, connectivity, added service, private access, global connections, rich comforts and traditional service — resonated with the assembled group. Questions abounded about service standards, when Polaris would reach United’s p.s. service, other product details and the process; but in the end it was clear the room was full of world travelers eager for their first flight on United Polaris.

Next up, a team from Saudi Arabian Airlines, led by Jessica Arias, account executive, greeted the group with dates and tea, a sneak preview of the tasty delights served on board the flagship carrier. The Saudia team took a

FEBRUARY 2017

different approach, first showing videos of the airline’s new Boeing 787 Dreamliner and first-class cabin before asking our Globility Board members a series of questions to deduce their rationale in planning and booking travel.

Questions included: Have you flown the Dreamliner?

Most answered with a resounding “Yes!” with feedback ranging from, “I flew a discount carrier just to experience the aircraft,” to “I noticed absolutely nothing different when flying the Dreamliner.” They asked: Who books your travel? How do you decide which airline to fly? What travel websites do you regularly visit? Do you use mobile

boarding passes? What airlines do a good job at marketing themselves? What do you look for in an airline ad?

Do alliances hold value? The question and answer session sparked a lively discussion among the group and even included photographs from GT publisher and CEO Francis X. Gallagher’s personal trip to Saudi Arabia. The presentation heightened the awareness of the airline and its premium offerings among our group of intrepid travelers and led many to state they would consider the airline as a transit option for a future trip.

Finally, we at Global Traveler took advantage of the benefits of having our readers in one room, asking them for feedback as we offered a first look at the 2017 magazine redesign we launched last month.

As we usher in 2017, those of us at Global Traveler join our Globility Board members on flights and trips around the world, putting into practice our definition of “globility”: the openness to learning and understanding cultural differences.

PRODUCT LAUNCH:

Saudi Arabian Airlines’ new 787 Dreamliner (above) and GT’s new redesign (left) PHOTOS: © BOEING, © SAUDIA ARABIAN AIRLINES, © GLOBAL TRAVELER

JOIN THE GLOBILITY BOARD We are always looking for new candidates interested in joining the Globility Board. To become a member of the Globility Board, reach out to Francis X. Gallagher at fran@globaltravelerusa.com.

Interested parties will need to complete an application and vetting process.

FEBRUARY 2017

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mice | ORLANDO

Magical Meetings Add some fun to your next business event in Orlando. BY SUSAN B. BARNES

DAY AND NIGHT: Wyndham Grand Orlando Resort Bonnet Creek meeting room (left), and fireworks (right) PHOTOS: © WYNDHAM GRAND ORLANDO RESORT BONNET CREEK

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The lounge features a video wall; LED systems and lighting to support WHEN IT COMES TO MIXING business with branding and displays; and is available for meetings, corporate funcpleasure, it’s easy in the Central Florida city filled tions and presentations. with theme parks, magic and wizards — Orlando.

To add some fun to its function, the OCCC recently debuted its In addition to thrilling rides, warm weather Center-to-Table Gardens, which at 2,000 square feet is currently year-round and a thriving arts and culture scene, the largest aeroponic garden in a public space in the United States. there are 141 meeting hotels offering a combined The center’s catering department incorporates the 783 plants grown 4.5 million square feet of meeting space to fit any in the gardens each week, including meeting size and type. greens, chard, bok choy, celery, herbs and Add to that the more than To add some fun to its function, microgreens.

118,000 hotel rooms found the OCCC recently debuted its In addition to the Orange County throughout the city, and it’s Convention Center, meeting spaces at a easy to see why Orlando is Center-to-Table Gardens, which at number of Orlando-area hotels have been as popular a business desti2,000 square feet is currently the largest renovated or are undergoing renovations. nation as it is for leisure.

In summer 2016 Loews Sapphire Falls At the heart of aeroponic garden in a public space in Resort opened in the midst of Universal Orlando’s meeting space the United States.

Orlando Resort, becoming the fifth hotel sits the Orange County on the theme park’s grounds. In addition Convention Center with to 1,000 hotel rooms, Loews Sapphire Falls Resort features 114,000 its 2.1 million square feet of exhibition space and square feet of meeting space, including a 41,000-square-foot ballroom 480,000 square feet of flexible meeting space. divisible into 12 sections; a 31,000-square-foot hall; 16 breakout To enhance that space, the OCCC developed rooms; and 27,000 square feet of pre-function space. Outside, in the a new 7,000-square-foot Destination Lounge warm Florida air, another 16,000 square feet of beautifully landscaped in the South Building that opened in late 2016.

FEBRUARY 2017

BUSINESS AND PLEASURE: Walt Disney World Swan & Dolphin Resort ballroom (top), and Loews Sapphire Falls Resort (bottom) PHOTOS: © WALT DISNEY WORLD SWAN & DOLPHIN RESORT, © LOEWS SAPPHIRE FALLS RESORT

UNIQUE VENUES Go on — mix business and pleasure in Orlando. It’s easy!

Theme parks are adding attractions at warp speed. Opening this summer, Volcano Bay Water Theme Park at Universal Orlando Resort offers thrilling aqua coaster rides along with a peaceful escape to the warm waters of a lagoon. Also at Universal Orlando, the Race Through New York Starring Jimmy Fallon 3D attraction will open in the spring, putting guests right into Studio 6B where Jimmy will challenge them on an adventure through The Big Apple. universalorlando.com

space accommodates outdoor functions. For even more meeting space flexibility, the resort links to Loews Royal Pacific Resort to create the Loews Meeting Complex for a total of 2,000 hotel rooms and more than 247,000 square feet of meeting space between both resorts.

Also in 2016, in October, the Buena Vista Palace Resort & Spa became the Hilton Orlando Buena Vista Palace (located in the Disney Springs area). With its name change the resort also unveiled its large-scale remodeling project, including renovations to the 92,000 square feet of meeting space; a new guestroom design; Letterpress, the resort’s new signature restaurant; and Citrus 28, the new grab-and-go market. When it’s time to play, cares float away in the new Float Lagoon, pools and cabanas.

The $5 million budget for renovations at the 400room Wyndham Grand Orlando Resort Bonnet Creek included a 2,155-square-foot meeting room and a new 3,500-square-foot ballroom that can accommodate up to 360 people.

Walt Disney World Swan & Dolphin Resort, Orlando’s iconic convention hotel, is undergoing a $125 million, multiyear redesign project to all 2,267 guestrooms, with a completion date in 2017. And the DoubleTree by Hilton Orlando at SeaWorld is implementing multimillion-dollar upgrades that include an additional 40,000 square feet of meeting and event space, featuring a new 20,000-squarefoot ballroom and enhanced indoor and outdoor space.

This is in addition to the existing 60,000 square feet of meeting space.

Westgate Lakes Resort & Spa recently underwent

Pandora – The World of AVATAR, the largest expansion in the history of Disney’s Animal Kingdom, opens this summer, and Miss Fortune Falls, a family-style raft ride, opens in the spring at Disney’s Typhoon Lagoon. disneyworld.disney.go.com This fall the new 65,000-square-foot Topgolf facility will open at Orlando’s Convention Way and Universal Boulevard. Offering great food, full-service bars and upscale facilities, it makes an ideal venue for a corporate event with a little competitive fun in the mix. topgolf.com/us/orlando

$20 million in renovations to add 20,000 square feet of meeting and banquet space to bring the total meeting space to 36,000 square feet at the luxury condominium resort. Adding to the allure, the flexible meeting space overlooks the Orange County Convention Center; and when the sun goes down, the theme parks’ nightly fireworks light up the sky.

To help ease travel into the area, Orlando International Airport — the second-busiest airport in Florida — is embarking upon a series of capital improvements valued at more than $3.1 billion and has approved designing a new South Terminal project.

To navigate their way from meetings to restaurants to theme parks and much more, visitors are invited to download the new Visit Orlando App (in beta) to make getting around that much easier.

Take a quick 45-minute drive on the Beachline from Orlando to the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. Your team can spend the day marveling at rockets and a shuttle that returned from outer space, enjoying the interactive exhibits and walking through its newest attraction, Heroes & Legends. It features the U.S. Astronaut Hall of Fame, presented by Boeing, which opened in November 2016. It’s out of this world! The visitor center caters to corporate outings and events as well. kennedyspacecenter.com

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destination one | TAIPEI

City of Possibility Taipei promotes a free spirit for business development and trade. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY ACROSS THE CHOPPY WATERS from mainland China in Taiwan’s capital of Taipei, a bold wind of creativity spurred on everyone from whiskey makers to IT innovators.

Last fall the government initiated a high-tech project to rival America’s Silicon Valley under a new scheme dubbed “the Asian Silicon Valley,” a masterful economic plan to be completed by 2023 in neighboring Taoyuan City. A $357.9 million budget has already been slated this year alone to help startups and research and development for internet industries.

Meanwhile, the Taiwanese whiskey distiller Kavalan earned a reputation among whiskey connoisseurs as the world’s best. In 2015 Kavalan’s Solist Vinho Barrique earned the title “World’s Best Single Malt Whisky” from the prestigious World Whiskies Awards.

But Taipei hasn’t always enjoyed this sweet smell of success.

TO THE TOP:

Taipei City at night PHOTO: © LEUNG CHO PAN | DREAMSTIME.COM

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FEBRUARY 2017

ANCIENT TREASURES: National Palace Museum PHOTO: © SUPERJOSEPH | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING

ESLITE HOTEL Designed by legendary Japanese architect Toyo Ito, the 104-room luxury property is a storehouse of chic in this repurposed hipster neighborhood. Expect a library bar with books in every room.

Songshan Cultural and Creative Park, 98 Yanchang Road, Xinji District $$$$

COMING AND GOING All U.S. citizens require a valid passport with two blank pages for entry and exit. Tourist visas are not required for stays 90 days or less. For those who intend on working in Taiwan, a visa is required prior to traveling. Find visa information on the Taipei Economic and Cultural Representative Office website at roc-taiwan.org.

Located in the heart of the Asia Pacific region, ministration from the sidelines. As of this writing, the ancient island carved from two geographic U.S. President-Elect Donald Trump indicated his plates nearly 5 million years ago weathered its intent to withdraw from the region’s Trans-Pacific fair share of storms. Once the hub of early Partnership.

Chinese dynasties like the war-mongering But for now, it’s anyone’s guess. The capital Eastern Wu Dynasty and of Taiwan, Taipei, European empire-seekers like located on the ‘Taipei occupies a key position northern tip along the the Portuguese sailors who christened the island paradise in international transportation. Taipei Basin, enjoys Formosa, Taiwan has, indeed, vast resources from its From Taipei Songshan Airport, surrounding mounencountered rocky waters over the years. The biggest tains teeming with hot one can fly to Tokyo, Seoul, upheaval came during the springs to its buzzing Shanghai and 14 major cities Civil War in China that saw metropolis of 2.7 the exodus of KMT national million residents who in mainland China.’ party leader Chiang Kai-shek. never seem to sleep.

In 1949 he established the Welcome to the Chung-chieh Lin, commissioner, Republic of China, as Taiwan Gateway to Asia. SituDepartment of Economic Development, is officially recognized, and ated at the center of Taipei City Government shipped historic national treaEast Asia’s golden sures from the mainland across the Taiwan Strait. routes such as Tokyo, Seoul and Shanghai, The ancient collection remains on display at the Taipei is ideally located to promote trade within National Palace Museum in Taipei. the region and globally. “Taipei occupies a key Now with a new president — the island position in international transportation. From nation’s first female leader, who assumed her Taipei Songshan Airport, one can fly to Tokyo, position in May — Taiwan yet again establishes Seoul, Shanghai and 14 major cities in mainland its footing as China closely watches the new adChina,” says Chung-chieh Lin, commissioner,

FEBRUARY 2017

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, TAIPEI Home to one of the city’s largest spas and a roster of six restaurants and bars, guests never have to leave the opulence and luxury of the hotel.

158 Dunhua North Road, Songshan District $$$$ W TAIPEI Rated best business hotel in Taipei by FinanceAsia, among scores of other accolades, this 405-room property in the Central Business District overlooks Taipei 101 and boasts big WOW views.

10 Zhongxiao East Road, Section 5, Xinyi District $$$$

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SHOW TIME: Smart watches on display at COMPUTEX (left), and Taipei International Cycle Show (right) PHOTOS: © FANG CHUN CHE | DREAMSTIME.COM

JUST THE FACTS Time Zone: GMT +8 Phone Code: Country code: 886 City code: 2 Currency: New Taiwan dollar Key industries: Manufacturing, tourism, finance, technology, business, green energy

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Department of Economic Development, Taipei City Government. He notes for many enterprises, Taipei is the springboard to the Asia Pacific market.

“It takes only 40 minutes’ drive and 19 minutes by high-speed railway to get to the Taoyuan International Airport. Flying to Tokyo, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Seoul, Singapore, Manila and Sydney takes only about three hours on average.”

Business travelers find the local facilities, services and hotel room inventory favorable for hosting events and meetings. “There is an international conference or exhibition every three days,” Chungchieh Lin says, and lists among them COMPUTEX, the world’s second-largest computer show, and the Taipei International Bicycle Show, Asia’s biggest bike show. Events on the conference roster use facilities such as the Taipei World Trade Center Hall 1, the Taipei International Convention Center, the Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall 1 and the new Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall 2.

On infrastructure, the capital boasts 35,000 guestrooms in 27 international hotels, with 500-plus other hotels. Free WiFi hot spots dot the entire city, including a convenient mass transportation system.

“The rapid transit system throughout the city is utilized by 1.58 million people at a time during daily commutes,” says Chung-chieh Lin. “With the high-speed railway operation, Taipei has become the country’s biggest transportation center and the first choice for domestic and foreign firms to build their logistics centers, operation headquarters and centers of innovation.”

Foreign businesses have taken note. Named the world’s best place to live for expatriates by

FEBRUARY 2017

the world’s largest expats network, InterNations, respondents in the organization’s latest survey identified quality of health care plus the lower cost of living as factors.

“Taiwan’s nature, friendliness and advanced economy have helped put it above the likes of the U.S., Australia and Hong Kong as the best place in the world for expats to live,” says Forbes contributor Johan Nylander.

A highly educated workforce offers another huge bonus. Today nearly 70 percent of Taiwanese aged 18–22 are in a higher education institution.

For three consecutive years (2010–2012), Taipei City received full marks for education services in the Global Liveability Survey conducted by The Economist Intelligence Unit. “All the best universities, R&D resources and top businesses are densely concentrated in the city,” Chung-chieh Lin says. “As a result, Taipei has become the center of human resources development and attracts top talents of the high-tech industry from overseas.” He speculates Taipei could become the best choice to develop and explore the Asian or even the global marketplace.

“We want to make the city a good environment for business development in the hope of creating an open, friendly city that sustains endless imagination and possibility,” he says.

No one knows what the future holds for this Asian tiger. Yet in this densely populated capital optimism grows among the crowds of youth buzzing throughout the districts and supersize-me malls.

It’s a West-meets-East scene as legions of them clutch their cellphones, speculating on the newest Pokemon phenomenon or the next big thing.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

Standard Mandarin, with English the primary foreign language

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STAY AND PLAY:

Aloft Taipei Zhongshan manager Tiffany Lin (far left), hotel exterior (left) and lobby (below) PHOTOS: © ZOHAR RON

DINING

RAW A new interpretation of Taiwanese flavors from acclaimed chef Andre Chiang has diners licking their fingers and smacking their lips while exploring a curated menu of bistronomy, haute cuisine at affordable prices.

301 Le Qun 3rd Road, Zhongshan District $$$$

INFO TO GO

International flights arrive at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport, located 25 miles west of Taipei in Taoyuan. Travelers use shuttle buses and the skytrain for terminal connections. A high-speed rail service conveniently connects to all major cities.

Purchase a highspeed rail shuttle bus ticket ($1) at arrivals by Terminals 1 and 2, then head to the THSR Taoyuan Station. Tickets cost from $5. Car rentals, tour buses and taxis are available. Cab fare averages $31.

CHECKING IN WITH TIFFANY LIN Hotel Manager, Aloft Taipei Zhongshan

What’s new at Aloft Taipei Zhongshan?

Aloft Taipei itself! The hotel opened Christmas Eve 2015, and, being the first Aloft in Taiwan, guests are curious. They purposely book rooms just to experience the SPG keyless check-in, which allows guests to use their smartphone as their room key and is now at every Aloft hotel worldwide. Guests are also curious about Live at Aloft Hotels, where we offer popular, no-cover acoustic sets that showcase emerging talent with live, intimate performances in W:XYZ bars for both guests and music-loving locals.

We are also exploring the possibility of attracting more talented artists to perform at our W:XYZ bar every Friday and Saturday night.

What is a hot topic for people living in Taipei right now?

Pokemen Go is a hit at the moment. And as the 29th Summer Universiade in 2017 will be the next big event, we are exploring the opportunity to support this citywide event. And the annual Taipei Arts Festival invites spectacular performance groups from around the world to perform in the city and use theater to engage in a dialogue with audiences while energizing the city’s creative spirit with a charming grace.

What neighborhood is the new ‘it’ spot, the place where people enjoy eating out and getting together?

The Xinyi District has been growing in popularity for the past few years, and I go there quite often. But the Zhongshan District where our Aloft property is located has its own charming story. Just five minutes from the hotel you will reach Da Dao Cheng, where you can explore buildings more than 100 years old. Just when you think you can only find dried seafood or maybe some Chinese medicine here, you will find a delightful surprise with shops that sell local designers’ creative work.

How has the city changed in your lifetime?

I was born in Taipei. I think the biggest change is the whole city is becoming traveler-friendly. Taipei introduced a convenient mass transit system, Taipei MRT, along with hundreds of bus lines and YouBike [bike-sharing program] to make traveling around the city easier.

What season do you enjoy most in Taipei, and why?

Taipei is in a subtropical climate, which provides four distinct seasons. I think the best season to stay in Taipei is autumn, when the weather is cooler and rainfall is at its lowest. Our guests and local residents can go out at any hour of the day to enjoy the sights and sounds of the city and the comfortable temperatures.

FEBRUARY 2017

VEGE CREEK In a densely populated ritzy neighborhood lies this boîte to vegetarian cuisine where the chef and diners mingle over vegetable selections cooked fresh.

2 Lane 129, Yanji St., Da’an District $$–$$$ YEN From a lofty perch with stunning Taipei city views, nouveau Chinese cuisine takes center stage in this ultramodern resto helmed by Hong Kongese Wo Hoi Ming, a master chef with Michelin stars from previous gigs.

W Taipei, 10 Zhongxiao East Road, Section 5, Xinyi District $$$$

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DIVERSIONS TOURING TAIPEI:

Longshan Temple (top left), Shilin Night Market (top right), and the calla lily field in Yangmingshan National Park (bottom) PHOTOS: © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © OLIVER FÖRSTNER | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PHUONGPHOTO | DREAMSTIME.COM

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Taipei full-throttled its way to becoming the capital of techno-chic, fusing the best of Eastern and Western styles as millennials don the latest fashions. Head to the all-night dance clubs and rocket up Taipei 101 for some canoodling. It’s as if the Taiwanese creative spirit has been let loose in a playhouse of modernity.

For urban experiences, head to any Eslite Bookstore, a literary shrine open 24/7. Then hit the streets via an easy YouBike ride and pass by interesting shops, food places and cafés. Troll the network of pedestrian zones of the Ximending District in the east end. Known for Tattoo Street, the vintage Red House Theater showcasing spoken-word and vocal performances, and movie houses along Hanzhong Street, the area oozes youth power.

Other big discoveries include the city’s temples, like the crowd-pleaser Longshan with throngs of worshippers, and traditional markets in Snake Alley. Watch for crazy fashion fads à la Tokyo grunge chic. Shopping takes on new meaning at the mall and fun park in one, Miramar Entertainment Park. Shoppers scale the nine floors of retail and restaurants and head to the mega-huge IMAX theater, ending the experience at one of Asia’s highest rooftop Ferris wheels.

For downtime, leave downtown — within 30 minutes, nature gets top billing. Taipei boasts the Beitou Hot Springs. For a stunning retreat head to

FEBRUARY 2017

misty Yangming Mountain and indulge in a hot bath treatment at Hsin Peitou’s Villa 32. Hong Kong action star Michelle Yeoh and corporate brass soak in the mineral-rich outdoor baths of this ultra-luxe hideaway hotel.

For more outdoor experiences, hike trails on one of the city’s 20 mountain footpaths like those at the view-rich Elephant Mountain, or swoosh down one of the scenic bike trails around the Tamsui River basin.

For more extraordinary sightseeing, take a mountain gondola to Maokong and sip the best green tea at the teahouses overlooking Taipei.

Come nightfall, Taipei takes on a new dimension.

Prepare for sensory overload at the Shilin Night Market, Taipei’s largest. Cruise the countless food stalls while battling an endless tsunami of patrons vying for cheap goods and street eats. Find discount prices galore for pretty much anything sold here. For favorite street food, try fried spring onion pancakes at Guo House and a crispy little roll wrapped in a big roll known as “little bings in big bings.”

For the ultimate panoramic night views, take your pick. Yangmingshan National Park is nature central, while Taipei’s signature landmark, Taipei 101, packs in the best view of city lights.

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stateside | CHARLESTON

Captivating Charleston Discover the sophisticated charm of South Carolina’s boom town.

BY KIMBERLY KROL

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bestowed on the city and an influx of related tele- TWILIGHT TIME: WHILE THE SAYING goes, “Never Charleston’s historic vision programming, it’s no wonder Charleston judge a book by its cover,” one could say French Quarter has been and is becoming even more of a tourist destinations can be judged by their faces, © SEAN PAVONE | hot spot. The expanded Charleston International PHOTO: or, literally and collectively, the inhabitDREAMSTIME.COM Airport offers daily non-stop service to 18 cities ants. If one judges Charleston, S.C., by in the United States and Canada as well as easy these standards, the city ranks highly. access to major international Throughout the hubs. A coastline location course of a recent Two aspects of the city and pleasant weather add to visit, it became quite consistently drawing the desirability. evident CharlestonHoteliers are listening, ians are proud of crowds are, without a with new hotels opening and well-versed in doubt, the food and drink. or undergoing renovathe development, tions in the last 18 months, industry and hapincluding The Spectator, the first to offer butler penings of the Holy City. One of my Uber service; a unique boutique spot, Restoration drivers, a Charleston transplant, easily on King; and Grand Bohemian Hotel, part of could have doubled as a professional tour the Autograph Collection. Relative newcomer guide, and the enthusiasm she exuded for The Vendue attracts an über-chic crowd to its her adopted hometown was infectious. rooftop bar. Charleston, renowned for its history With a proliferation of accolades

DINING OUT:

Husk

PHOTO: © SQUIRE FOX

SCENIC DRIVES

and architecture, of course offers the mainstay grand dame properties like Wentworth Mansion, while the 5-star Belmond Charleston Place completed a $34 million renovation in early 2016.

Charleston, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel, part of Starwood Hotels & Resorts, will open Aug. 14, 2018.

Two aspects of the city consistently drawing crowds are, without a doubt, the food and drink. Husk, helmed

by Executive Chef Sean Brock, has drawn raves and the attention of the James Beard Foundation since its 2010 opening, consistently landing on countrywide Best Of lists year after year. Alongside Husk, Charleston chefs and restaurants — think Rob Stehling at Hominy Grill, Mike Lata at Fig, Michelle Weaver at Charleston Grill — regularly receive accolades. But it’s not just the fine dining causing a stir in the city — from shrimp and grits to freshly cooked biscuits and interesting cocktail combinations, there’s no wrong way to satiate oneself in Charleston.

There are quite a few other superlatives to consider for Charleston across

a number of its key industries. The city is one of the fastest-growing mid-sized metros for aircraft manufacturing while also exceling in the areas of component manufacturing, vehicle assembly and the remanufacture of automotive parts.

Charleston also ranks as an emerging tech hub alongside Austin, Raleigh and even San Francisco. According to the Milken Institute, Charleston’s digital economy is growing 16 percent faster than the U.S. average. Another interesting fact: The U.S. Census Bureau statistics show that, among mid-sized U.S. metros, Charleston ranks No. 1 for a millennial workforce based on total population.

Outsiders tend to agree, as the U.S. Census Bureau notes an annual net in-migration of 12,700 people. And with a lower cost of living, some of the best-performing schools in the state, reasonable home values and wellrounded lifestyle offerings, it’s easy to see why both individuals and business opt to relocate to Charleston. The Boeing Co., Roper St. Francis Healthcare System, Trident Health System and Walmart

rank among the region’s top employers.

Considering Charleston’s waterfront locale, dining scene and rich culture, the city obviously also attracts a large amount of meetings, incentives, conventions and exhibitions business.

Venue options range from traditional boardrooms and unique meeting capabilities in some of the city’s celebrated mansions to the 200,000-square-foot Charleston Area Convention Center.

All of this, and we haven’t even gotten to what many consider one of Charleston’s biggest draws: the beach.

Each of the city’s five distinct beach towns — Isle of Palms, Sullivan’s Island, Folly Beach, Kiawah Island and Seabrook Island — boasts a different vibe, character and size, offering an escape on your next vacation or business trip, a delightful spot to host an event or the optimum view should you decide to call Charleston home.

With so much to offer, including an intriguing blend of history sophisticatedly integrated into the modern vibe of the destination, it’s clear Charleston is one of the top cities to see and be seen.

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To combine a bit of sightseeing with your scenic drive, take the 19-mile Ashley River Road from Charleston to Ridgeville, passing both Middleton Place Plantation and Magnolia Plantation and Gardens along the way. Both offer tours.

Drive the metropolitan Charleston area and loop from Daniel Island to James Island.

However, just because it’s not a long drive doesn’t mean it isn’t scenic — on this route visitors pass waterways, saltwater marshlands, beaches, beautiful mansions, gardens and historic sites, including Boone Hall Plantation and Gardens.

Journey through Lowcountry with a meandering drive on the 200-mile route from coastal South Carolina to Georgia. Along with Charleston, Savannah acts as a convenient bookend for the trip.

Notable stops along the way include Angel Oak, Edisto Island, Beaufort, St. Helena Island, Hunting Island and Pinckney Island.

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9–5 | BELGRADE

Inner Beauty Impress clients in the unexpected gem of Belgrade.

BY KRISTY ALPERT

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IF THE REST OF THE WORLD can learn anything from Belgrade, it is that appearances can be deceiving. This Serbian city has famously been referred to over the years as “gritty” and “raw,” with one of the city’s most renowned writers even observing his hometown is “not overly beautiful.”

It’s true; on the outside Belgrade may not look like a glamorous center of commerce, having been destroyed more than 40 times since its third century B.C. inception. But look past the city’s Soviet-era construction and gritty and raw exterior, and what’s left is a vibrant, dynamic city with one of the largest and fastest-growing markets in southeast Europe.

Belgrade sits in the center of the Balkan Peninsula, at the point where the Sava River meets the Danube. The city’s strategic location made it an integral point along the trading routes between eastern and western Europe, with direct linkage to the Middle East. Belgrade’s recent urban revival — coupled with its duty-free access to multiple countries and low operating, utility and labor costs — birthed a culture that now caters to the 9–5 set with world-class eateries, chic meeting spaces, extensive public transportation options and tons of trendy places for entertaining clients.

A valid passport with at least one blank page is all U.S. travelers need upon landing at Belgrade’s Nikola Tesla International Airport, where visas are only required for stays of 90 days or more. Currency restrictions begin at €10,000 (about $10,630) for both entry and exit from the country, and all visitors must register their presence within the first 24 hours of arrival. (Note: Hotels and similar accommodations like Homestay.com do

FEBRUARY 2017

RIVERFRONT: Belgrade PHOTO: © AEROGONDO | DREAMSTIME.COM

ity’s the c h g ou Alth rks dma n a l ps, ue to o uniq o h p at e gre mak able nish u p a res it is pictu e k ta e to x crim anne old e f h t of ry o nist i M he of t e old d th n a ense Def f the ry o t . s i ings Min uild b r rio Inte

this automatically for guests, but visitors staying in a private residence need to register in person at a nearby police station.)

Any visitors arriving by car to Belgrade need only make sure to enter the Serbian border by any country other than Kosovo since, as of this publishing, Serbian border officials do not recognize the authority of Kosovo’s government and will refuse entry to any visitors entering at the Serbia-Kosovo border who have not first entered Serbia’s borders at another point. The roads in Belgrade are easy to navigate, with most traffic laws resembling those in the United States, except it is illegal to turn right at a red light without an illuminated green arrow. Seat belts are mandatory for all passengers, and a driver with a blood alcohol level higher than 0.05 percent is considered intoxicated by Serbian traffic officers, who carry breathalyzers on them at all times.

Public transportation in Belgrade consists of a network of buses, trolleys, trams and trains that connect the entire city; all domestic trains operated here by Serbian railways are included in a Eurail Global Pass.

Taxis are readily available in most major districts or are only a quick call away, although most are only equipped to accept cash (Serbian dinars). There have been a few reports in recent years of illegal taxis operating in the city, so it’s important to only enter a taxi with the letters TX at the end of the registration number on the license plate.

Most business is conducted in the city center off Mihailova, the main shopping street, with the typical workday running from 8 a.m. until 4 p.m. Typically, office attire consists of a shirt and tie for men (a suit is also appropriate) and dress pants or skirts for women. Serbians are incredibly warm and friendly, greeting firsttime visitors with at least a handshake or an exchange of business cards and offering the less-formal kiss on the cheek for familiar faces (three kisses between men).

While most business in Belgrade takes place in the office, it’s common practice to discuss business over coffee or lunch or during dinner parties. A personal dinner invitation is a big deal in Serbian culture and should never be refused; it’s customary for guests to bring a small gift for the host along the lines of a bottle of wine, cigars or flowers. When dining with a Serbian, it’s regarded as an insult to refuse food or drinks, and it’s considered rude not to make direct eye contact during a toast.

The Belgrade Art Hotel features a stylish dining room that provides the perfect setting for a power breakfast or a quick business lunch, offering an American and French breakfast buffet (or fitness breakfast option) and à la carte dining menus for all meals.

To impress both local and foreign clients, the restaurant Kalemegdanska Terasa is the only way to go, as it offers the best views of the city from the inside of the Kalemegdan Fortress. The upscale menu features local specialties presented with a French flair and a wine list that offers the top labels from around the world, including the best producers in Serbia. For trendier gatherings, Ambar Restaurant is an unexpected gem along the banks of the Sava River in Belgrade’s newest hot spot, Beton Hall. The restaurant is a favorite of Belgrade’s fashionable crowd (and a few American celebrities in recent months) for its craft cocktails, immense selection of Balkan rakia and modern Balkan cuisine. Don’t miss its Balkan Experience or Endless Brunch menus for groups.

CITY CHARM: Shopping on Knez Mihailova Street (above), and the view from Kalemegdan Fortress (left) PHOTOS: © KIRILL MAKAROV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ELENA ELISSEEVA | DREAMSTIME.COM

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after 5 | LONDON

Come Out to Play Find all manner of nightlife in London. BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS

TASTE OF LONDON:

Bartender at The London Gin Club (left), and Iberian ham at Enrique Tomás (right) PHOTOS: © EATING LONDON TOURS

ye, ndon E The Lo heel erris w F t n a i s ag ye view ird’s-e b g n i r offe ays city, st of the p.m. il 8:30 t n u n e op

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WITH THE HIGHEST concentration of bars, clubs and after-hours action, Soho still reigns as London’s nightlife central. Specialty cocktail bars are hot — places like The London Gin Club serve more than 100 different gins with tonics to match. Along with the classiest cocktails, Soho is known for its diversity — both ethnic and lifestyle — and as a place that welcomes LGBTQ travelers.

Diversity shines, too, in the dining: Iberian ham with fine Spanish wines at Enrique Tomás Spanish Deli and Wine Bar; Basque pintxos at Pix; dim sum in an opium-den atmosphere. A good way to discover venues the insiders know is with Eating London Tours. The lively guide heads straight to reserved tables at the latest hot spots to sample some of Soho’s best. To take in a West End show, reserve online or stop for same-day ticket deals at the TKTS kiosk in Leicester Square.

There’s always action at nearby Covent Garden, where crowded pubs and bars overflow into the streets, but for an edgier vibe, head to the

FEBRUARY 2017

fast-emerging East End — hip, ethnically diverse, LGBTQ-friendly and catering to all tastes. Look in the smart shops alongside the Spittlefields Market for the hottest in bespoke tailoring; style-conscious men with an eye for value will find Topman General Store open until 7 p.m. In the surrounding streets discover everything from traditional pubs (don’t miss the 17th-century atmosphere of The English Restaurant) to classy renditions of bacon sandwiches at the hot new nose-to-tail restaurant, St. John Bread and Wine.

The three blocks of Brick Lane, known as Curry Mile, are reputed to serve more than 300 varieties (London has more curry restaurants than Mumbai). Beyond The Old Truman Brewery’s hip food hall and performance spaces, Brick Lane morphs into funky boutiques, Goth hangouts and some old-style places for a late-night snack, like the 24-hour Brick Lane Beigel Bake. Its juicy salt beef carved onto a fresh-from-the-oven bagel draws lines nightly from the adjacent big indie music venue, 93 Feet East.

For a more sedate British experience and a quiet atmosphere for entertaining clients, reserve a table for a late afternoon tea at the Corinthia Hotel’s elegant Lobby Lounge. Relax over Champagne and fine tea while indulging in freshly baked scones, sandwiches and a sumptuous array of cakes.

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neighborhoods | BERGEN

On the Waterfront The historical heart of Bergen bustles with activity. BY KATHERINE RODEGHIER

BY THE SEA:

Bergen waterfront (left) and fish market (right) PHOTOS: © TATYANA VYCHEGZHANINA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JOYFULL | DREAMSTIME.COM

FINLAND NORWEGIAN SEA

SWEDEN

NORWAY BERGEN

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WHILE IT DATES FROM the 12th century and ranks among UNESCO World Heritage sites, Bryggen is no dry historical attraction. This lively Bergen neighborhood of 100-plus shops, galleries, restaurants and museums — and the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel — buzzes all day long.

Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city, was the biggest city in all of Scandinavia during the Middle Ages when this waterfront area served as the epicenter of commerce in the region. A hub of the Hanseatic League, a network of German traders occupied buildings on this wharf (bryggen means “wharf ” in Norwegian) around 1360 and stayed for nearly 400 years.

A fire in 1702 leveled the wharf, which was quickly reconstructed. Most

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of the colorful wooden structures of Bryggen today date from that era, some 60 buildings standing four or five deep from a promenade along the waterfront.

They form a welcoming maze of businesses: artists’ workshops and galleries such as Atelier Hetland, specializing in prints and paintings, and Juhls Silver Gallery, crafting jewelry inspired by the Norwegian tundra.

Guided walking tours of the neighborhood start from the Bryggen Museum, constructed over the foundations of its oldest buildings and showcasing artifacts from archaeological excavations, including ceramics from Egypt and glass from China. The Hanseatic Museum and Schøtstuene, in a building dating from 1704, contains original furnishings from the Hanseatic era when 2,000 men worked and lived crowded together in a jumble of warehouses and sleeping quarters. Exhibits illustrate the vast geographic reach of the Hanseatic League that made its fortune in Bergen on salted cod. Ships full of the dried fish set sail for the Catholic countries of Europe to supply meatless meals.

Fish still ranks high among Norway’s exports and finds its way onto plates in restaurants across the country. Bergen’s oldest fish restaurant, Enhjørningen, occupies a building once owned by a Hanseatic merchant in Bryggen. Across the harbor stands the Fish Market, selling not only an amazing selection of seafood but also flowers, fruit and vegetables. Enjoy lunch at a table with a view of Bryggen’s colorful façades reflected in the water.

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friends & family | LIMA

A Slice of Lima History and fusion cuisine blend in Peru’s capital city.

BY JOE BAUR

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PERUVIAN CUISINE JUST might be the most exciting thing happening in the global culinary scene that you don’t know about. That’s probably because “Peruvian” doesn’t yet bring to mind a strong, concrete image. Mexican, Japanese, Thai, Indian — these gastronomic brands bring something familiar to the imagination. There’s a specific meal or dish we can’t help but come back to.

That’s not the case with Peruvian, though that’s not altogether surprising. Despite Lima’s evolution into one of the world’s preeminent culinary cities, Peruvian cuisine comprises too many things to bring just one meal, just one taste, to immediate recollection. To begin with, there are indigenous influences — most prominently the Incans, whose historic empire you’re likely familiar with from that postcard view of Machu Picchu.

Immigrants from Spain, Italy and Germany offered their touch alongside incoming Asian and West African populations. Tastes and ingredients were modified based on what was available in this unfamiliar slice of land along western South America, blending with the four original staples of Peruvian cooking: rice, potatoes, quinoa and beans. Over time, this hodgepodge of cultures on a plate developed into a paragon of fusion cuisine, which U.S. food critic Eric Asimov of The New York Times described as “one of the great cuisines of the world.” That’s something with which the likes of Gastón Acurio, Peru’s super chef, will agree.

If any of the myriad cultures stick out most, it’s the Spanish. Peru was a staple

PURE PERUVIAN: Pollo saltado, an authentic Peruvian dish of chicken, rice and herbs; and the national drink, pisco sour PHOTO: © ROBERT LERICH | DREAMSTIME.COM

COLONIAL SQUARE: Plaza Mayor de Lima PHOTO: © JOE BAUR

LODGING

FORESTA HOTEL LIMA Centrally located in San Isidro, Foresta Hotel Lima is surrounded by a number of tasty restaurants and is sandwiched between the Lima Golf Club and Bosque El Olivar park.

Calle Los Libertadores 490, San Isidro $$

of Spanish colonization in the Americas, and it shows in the architecture as you stroll Centro Histórico, an urban European enclave stretching about seven blocks north from Plaza San Martín. An impressive monument of Gen. José de San Martín sitting upon his noble steed anchors the plaza. San Martín was an Argentine general and one of the primary leaders of South America’s fight for independence from Spain. He was appointed Protector of Peru when Peruvian independence was declared on July 28, 1822, following a private meeting with “El Libertador,” Simón Bolívar.

Begin a colonial architecture tour with your companions at Plaza Mayor de Lima, where the Cathedral of Lima and Government Palace of Peru sit adjacent along the square.

The architecture reeks of Spanish influence — Baroque, Neoclassical and colonial — the type of remarkable buildings tourists gawk at, clicking their cameras incessantly. Meanwhile, everyday Peruvians barely give them a glance. Children sit alongside the fountain as they take a break from playing. Older sons and daughters push their elderly parents in wheelchairs to enjoy the sun. For most, it’s simply a safe place for a pedestrian to get from A to B. Round the corner for the stunning Basílica y Convento de San Francisco de Lima. With its finely detailed symmetric yellow towers, resplendent interior and wellpreserved catacombs, it’s hardly a wonder the 18th-century monastery earned UNESCO World Heritage status in 1991.

The catacombs are of particular interest, only discovered in 1943. Researchers found thousands of skulls and bones belonging to an estimated 25,000 bodies put to rest here until about 1808. Yes, you can still see the bones.

The best way to get over those nightmares is to surround yourself with life; head back through Plaza Mayor to Jirón de la Unión, a busy pedestrian thoroughfare paved in tiles, with businesses housed in more modest yet visually enticing colonial stylings. A shopping spree here covers everything from cheap clothing to high-end fashion with a cup of Starbucks. If you need a caffeinated jolt, keep it local with nearby 9Bares Coffee Roasters.

Lima boasts one of the most respectable coasts in the world. Whereas far too many cities cede their coast to clogged highways, Lima’s waterfront is lined with an admirable collection of parks. Start at Parque Domodossola, trotting past the photogenic Iglesia Virgen de Fátima, and enjoy the views of the Pacific Ocean over Playa Redondo. To get down to the beach, far less pedestrian-friendly, a number of bridges and staircases will get you there. With decent weather, you might even catch an international surfing event or couples watching the waves crash against the rocks.

Once hunger strikes, the Larcomar shopping center features a number of restaurants, all blending surprisingly well with the surrounding park. Eventually continue north to Parque del Amor, or Park of Love. It’s hard to miss because of the prominent statue depicting two lovers in, let’s say, a deep embrace. Indeed, as if following a cosmic queue, young couples gather here and are happy to pretend they’re all alone.

Considering the surrounding artistic tiles of oranges, reds and shades of blue, it’s easy to avert your eyes. Not to mention that panoramic ocean view is right there.

Some might wonder how a writer could go this long

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HOTEL ATTON SAN ISIDRO Modern stylings and a friendly staff win praise for the Hotel Atton San Isidro.

Take your time in the morning with a complimentary breakfast buffet.

Av. Jorge Basadre 595, San Isidro $$$ HOTEL B Those looking for historic atmosphere in an urban setting will feel at home in the trendy Barranco neighborhood. Enjoy dinner at the hotel restaurant with an emphasis on traditional Peruvian cooking and Mediterranean influence.

Sáenz Peña 204, Barranco $$$$

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TRENDY AND TRADITIONAL:

Musicians in Miraflores (top), and a building in Miraflores (bottom) PHOTOS: © JOE BAUR

DINING

SAQRA RESTAURANTE Saqra comes from the indigenous Quechua language and means “little devil,” “naughty” or “mischief maker”; that essence remains at the heart of this contemporary Peruvian restaurant.

Av. La Paz 646, Miraflores $$$ TANTA Chef Gastón Acurio and his wife, Astrid Gutsche, model Tanta after your home living room, dining room or terrace, and the food celebrates what Peruvian mothers and grandmothers have cooked for generations.

Pancho Fierro 115, San Isidro $$$ LA VERDAD DE LA MILANESA Enjoy a modern take on the milanesa, a common South American dish with Italian roots that blends breaded meat with ham, tomato paste and mozzarella cheese.

Av. Almirante Miguel Grau 170, Barranco $$

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talking about Lima without mentioning pisco sour — the drink that is to Peru what beer is to Germany. Pisco, the base liquor, is distilled all over the country. (Some Peruvians make their own, not unlike those in the States who make their own moonshine.) Add key lime or lemon juice with syrup, ice, egg white and Angostura bitters. There’s no denying the drink’s popularity across the country, especially during a business lunch or as a prelude before the night gets going. Sample one at the Gran Hotel Bolívar

by Centro Histórico, which offers a classic early-20th-century vibe and remains a favorite local haunt. Literary travelers especially enjoy the rumor Ernest Hemingway consumed his fair share of pisco sours here.

Another option is to make your own pisco sour with The Lima Gourmet Co., which as part of a day tour takes you to Embarcadero 41 Fusión for a pisco sour and ceviche lesson.

The instruction is a comfortable balance between freedom — to make it seem you’re doing it on your own — and handholding to ensure you’re not about to pour something appalling down your throat.

Cap any evening with a jaunt around Parque Kennedy in Miraflores. This is the touristy neighborhood, but Limeños still own this part of town. Stray cats roam throughout

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the carefully manicured park, and young passersby stroll with a friendly arm around one another. Artists sell their work on the sidewalks around the park. Musicians set up camp with a lone acoustic guitar or sometimes a pair, serenading throughout the night with modern tunes. Those fancying something more traditional can make their way to the center of adjacent Parque Central de Miraflores.

Grandfathers and grandmothers claim the stage, singing the Peruvian equivalent of an Irish jamboree, hands clapping in rhythm with shrieks of joy at the culmination of every song.

INFO TO GO

International and domestic flights arrive at Jorge Chávez International Airport, about seven miles west of Centro Histórico.

Taxi fare from the airport to the city and its surrounding neighborhoods runs $15–17.

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bucket list | VIETNAM

Out of Sight Witness wartime Vietnam through the ingenious Cu Chi tunnels. BY VICTORIA ABBOTT RICCARDI g the er seein Consid in tunnels Cu Chi ith ation w combin to the a visit tly ul, brigh beautif i a Cao D colored the , which Temple nh Ngo Mi mystic in ounded Chieu f 1926.

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VIETNAM’S CU CHI TUNNELS attest to the extraordinary resourcefulness and resilience of a group of Southern Vietnamese people, known as the Viet Cong, during their struggle to fight and survive the Vietnam War. Located just outside Ho Chi Minh City in the region of Cu Chi, the tunnels enabled the Viet Cong to survive underground during this historic conflict which broke out in 1954, pitting the Communist Viet Minh party of North Vietnam and its southern allies, known as the Viet Cong, against the nonCommunist faction of South Vietnam and its main ally, the United States.

Two sites — Ben Dinh and Ben Duoc — allow visitors to view and even crawl through the tunnels, which the Communist forces built

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over the course of 20 years. To view either one, the easiest method is to have your hotel arrange a tour out of Ho Chi Minh City. You can be picked up at your hotel, taken to the site and returned later that day — the tunnels lie about 20 and 30 miles outside of Ho Chi Minh City.

You’ll want to wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty.

Because the tunnels of Ben Dinh lie closer to Ho Chi Minh City, they’re the most popular to visit. Your guided tour begins with a short film explaining the historical background of the tunnels. It’s worth knowing before you get down on your hands and knees that the original region of Cu Chi was thick with rubber plantations supplying a French tire company. Apparently, the area’s first tunnels were dug in the 1940s by the anti-colonial Viet Minh to store their arms during their struggle for independence from the French. The Viet Cong greatly expanded the network, easily dug from the area’s compacted red clay. However, as you’ll learn from your guide (or supplementary reading), all the ceilings of the tunnels had to be reinforced, ideally with wood. But since American bombing of the area

GO BELOW: Tourists explore the tunnels at Cu Chi. PHOTO: © TUAYAI | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

Many airlines fly daily from the United States to Vietnam, including Korean Air, Cathay Pacific and American Airlines. Ho Chi Minh City’s Tan Son Nhat Airport (SGN) lies approximately 20 minutes by car outside the city center, and regulated taxis remain the most reliable, convenient and popular form of transportation to get you to your hotel.

Alternatively, you can arrange in advance with your hotel to have a car meet you at the airport.

reduced the availability of timber, the Viet Cong ended up using iron fence posts from enemy bases.

Within the multistory tunnels — some were four levels deep — the Viet Cong lived for weeks, even years. The tunnels had sleeping quarters, meeting rooms, schools, kitchens, wells and latrines, as well as makeshift hospitals. Surgeons operated by torch light using rudimentary instruments, and a patient’s own blood was deposited in a bottle and then pumped back into the body using a bicycle pump and rubber hosing.

Although the tunnels had vent shafts to disperse cooking smoke, not surprisingly the passages could become extremely hot and foul-smelling. Inhabitants also had to fight off bats, snakes, scorpions, centipedes and fire ants. The Viet Cong used some of these creatures as weapons, setting up boxes of scorpions and hollow bamboo sticks filled with vipers in areas of the tunnels the enemy (mainly American forces) might enter. Flooding in the tunnels was a constant risk, as was disease, particularly malaria. Hidden trap doors provided release points for the inhabitants, who would leave the tunnels to fight and hunt for food (mainly roots and leaves, since American chemical weapons and bombs destroyed most of the Viet Cong’s rice paddies and fruit crops). After an attack, the Vietnamese fighters disappeared into the tunnels, eluding their American enemy. The Viet Cong not only used the tunnels as living quarters but also as hideouts and routes to transport communications and supplies. For tunnel inhabitants who stayed underground for extended amounts of time, the darkness was so intense, when they finally exited they suffered temporary blindness.

American soldiers knew about the tunnels and tried to flush out the enemy. In addition to using bulldozers and defoliant sprays, American soldiers crawled down into the tunnels with hand grenades or gas bombs.

The tunnels, however, were often so low and narrow American soldiers could not get down them, let alone scurry through them. Indeed, as you make your way through the labyrinth of dirt passageways (many of which have been widened to accommodate the larger girth of visiting tourists), you’ll sense immediately how dark, dirty and claustrophobic they feel, even after only 10 minutes. As you might imagine, the tunnels open to visitors only represent a fraction of the 155-mile-long and 30-mile-wide network.

More than 3 million people perished during the war; half were Vietnamese civilians. In 1973 President Richard Nixon ordered the withdrawal of U.S. troops from Vietnam. In 1975 the war ended when Communist forces took control of Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) and renamed the country the Socialist Republic of Vietnam the following year.

Years after the war, the Vietnamese government created a war memorial park that included the Cu Chi tunnels, where more than 45,000 Vietnamese were said to have died. In 1982 the Vietnam Veterans Memorial opened to the public in Washington, D.C., inscribed with the 57,939 names of American armed forces killed or missing during the war.

HIDDEN WARFARE: Rifle exposed in the Cu Chi tunnel park (top), a booby trap with bamboo spikes at the tunnels (middle), and the underground tunnels (bottom) PHOTOS: © MIRKO VITALI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TUAYAI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © HOXUANHUONG | DREAMSTIME .COM

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kicking back | ANTIGUA

& BARBUDA

Barefoot Haven Get away to the turquoise waters and white-sand beaches of Antigua and Barbuda.

BY RICHARD NEWTON

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BEAUTY AND TRANQUILITY have attracted the rich and famous to Antigua for decades. With a dimpled shoreline interspersed with sandy coves, the island claims to have a beach for every day of the year, many fringed by reefs kaleidoscopic with fish. The interior is hilly and draped with lush, tropical cover.

Antigua, an island in the Caribbean’s Lesser Antilles, has been an important regional hub for trade and transport for centuries. It still is. When international flights arrive at V.C. Bird Airport, many of the passengers decant into smaller planes for onward journeys to neighboring islands.

One of those islands is Barbuda, 30 miles to the north, which together with its larger neighbor forms the nation of Antigua and Barbuda. The majority of the country’s population of 90,000 live on Antigua, location of the country’s capital, St. John’s, as well as plenty of large resorts and all the supporting infrastructure that goes with them. Barbuda, by contrast, is the archetypal barefoot paradise, a flat coral island on which seabirds vastly outnumber humans.

Christopher Columbus initially sighted Antigua in 1493, but it remained without permanent settlements until the British arrived in 1632. They

SAFE HARBOR:

View of Antigua bays from Shirley Heights PHOTO: © ROBERT ZEHETMAYER | DREAMSTIME.COM

HISTORIC ANTIGUA:

Nelson’s Dockyard (top), and downtown St. John’s (bottom) PHOTOS: © ALFOTOKUNST | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SERGEY KELIN | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING

COCO POINT LODGE This laid-back, small resort (capacity 68 guests) occupies its own peninsula at the southern tip of Barbuda, with 2.5 miles of white-sand beaches on its doorstep.

Barbuda $$$

established sugar plantations and imported an enslaved workforce from Africa. Descendants of those slaves make up 80 percent of the current population.

Although Antigua and Barbuda gained independence in 1981, the ties to the United Kingdom remain strong. Vehicles are driven on the left (officially, though on minor roads it’s often hard to tell), cricket is the dominant sport, and Queen Elizabeth II is the head of state.

There are many physical remnants of Britain’s long history here, not least Nelson’s Dockyard, one of the best-preserved colonial sites in the Caribbean (recently granted UNESCO World Heritage status). This naval yard jutting out into the sheltered waters of English Bay in the south of Antigua was constructed in the 18th century, and from here Horatio Nelson (later to become one of Britain’s greatest heroes) policed the Caribbean, intercepting trading vessels bound for the newly independent United States.

Echoes of Nelson’s time here persist. As you walk between the old buildings and tread on the heavy stonework of the quayside, you can imagine the tall ships at anchor and the noisy bustle of an active shipyard. The naval fleet is long gone,

CURTAIN BLUFF On the southwest coast of Antigua, this allinclusive resort offers the ideal sporty option, with watersports, world-class tennis facilities and a choice of two beaches.

Old Road, Antigua $$$$

but English Bay remains a haven for sailboats, with dozens of craft rocking gently at anchor, protected from the squalls and storms of the Atlantic.

Although the capital city of St. John’s, on the northeast coast, predates the dockyard, an earthquake obliterated much of its history in 1843. In its current incarnation, the city is a picturesque jumble of buildings — many constructed from wood — painted in pastel colors. When the Caribbean cruise

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JUMBY BAY, A ROSEWOOD RESORT This resort on a private island two miles off Antigua’s north coast is accessible only by seven-minute boat ride.

The 300-acre island can be explored by bicycle.

Jumby Bay Island, Antigua $$$$

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NATURAL BEAUTY:

Male frigate at Barbuda’s Frigate Bird Sanctuary (above), and a pink-sand beach in Barbuda (right) PHOTOS: © STEFANOBUTTURINI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEXANDER SHALAMOV | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

International flights arrive at V.C. Bird International Airport at the north end of the island. Many resorts offer transfer services.

If you choose to rent a car, be aware Antiguans drive on the left. Montserrat Airways runs regular flights from V.C. Bird to Barbuda’s Codrington Airport; the flight takes 20 minutes. Alternatively, you can make the crossing by ferry; the voyage takes 90 minutes with Barbuda Express, usually departing Antigua at 9 a.m. (noon on Sundays). There is no service on Mondays or Wednesdays. U.S. citizens visiting Antigua and Barbuda require a valid passport, an onward or return ticket and confirmation of accommodation.

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ships dock here, they overshadow the modest skyline. With one exception.

Since the 18th century, the imposing twin towers of St. John’s Anglican Cathedral have dominated the city. The building, badly damaged by the 1843 quake, was repaired from within. A pine superstructure of pillars and beams transformed the interior into something resembling the inside of an old warship (though be aware it is currently undergoing renovation and is not at its best).

The cathedral’s historic influence over daily life in Antigua is matched by another hodgepodge structure just two blocks away: the Antigua Recreation Ground, one of the world’s most famous cricket venues.

Since 2007 most international matches have been hosted at the new Sir Vivian Richards Stadium to the east of St. John’s (the England team will be the opposition in March 2017), but the old Recreation Ground retains a special place in the hearts of all cricket lovers in the West Indies and beyond.

Antigua’s biggest draw is undoubtedly its beaches, typified by the Five Islands peninsula west of St. John’s. Here the

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coastline, indented with idyllic crescents of white sand, embraces luminously turquoise water. The ruined Fort Barrington, embedded atop a headland, provides the perfect vantage from which to survey this vision of paradise.

Although Antigua’s beaches are never exactly crowded, for the full Robinson Crusoe experience you need to head to Barbuda. Here the powdery beaches (often tinged pink) and crystal-clear waters are at their purest. You can stroll along the surf line for miles with barely a soul in sight.

For a respite from lounging in the sun, head to Barbuda’s Frigate Bird Sanctuary, where around 5,000 frigate birds nest in the mangroves around Codrington Lagoon, the males attempting to attract females by inflating red throat pouches to the size of a football. It’s a breathtaking spectacle.

The frigate birds were the pioneers.

They discovered what the Royal Navy, Eric Clapton, Oprah Winfrey, Paul McCartney and a host of other famous and non-famous tourists since confirmed: Antigua and Barbuda offers a calm retreat, sheltered from turbulent waters.

DINING

LE BISTRO Although billed as a French restaurant, this sophisticated dining venue’s eclectic menu includes Japanese (try the sashimi), Indian and Italian dishes.

Hodges Bay, St. John’s, Antigua $$$ HEMINGWAYS CARIBBEAN CAFE Sample Creole food and tropical cocktails on the first floor of a traditional gingerbread-style house in the capital, St. John’s.

Lower St. Mary’s Street, St. John’s, Antigua $$ IT’S A BIT FISHY Enjoy Caribbean cuisine at its most unpretentious — fresh fish grilled or steamed. Usually only open in the evenings, but they’ll do lunch if you arrange in advance.

River Road, Codrington, Barbuda $$

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lgbtq

Gay Paris The French capital lights up for LGBTQ travelers. BY MARK CHESNUT CITY LIGHTS:

The Eiffel Tower lit up in colors of the rainbow flag in solidarity with the LGBTQ community PHOTO: © KOVALENKOV PETR | DREAMSTIME.COM

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called Absolu Living specializes in gay-friendly furnished apartment rentals in the heart OFTEN CALLED THE “City of Light,” Paris is of the gay neighborhoods. Favored hotels run the gamut from large-style luxury to chic also widely regarded as one of the top LGBTQ boutique style. Among the gay-friendly options, the 99-room Hôtel Regina Paris comdestinations on the globe. France, in fact, ranked pleted extensive renovations last year and offers views of the Eiffel Tower. Also popular No. 2 among all international destinations last year among upscale travelers — and part of Preferred Pride, the LGBTQ-friendly designain the 20th LGBT Tourism & Hospitality Survey tion from Preferred Hotels and Resorts — are Buddha-Bar Hotel Paris, which exudes

by Community Marketing, Inc., as well as the top a neo-Asian ambience, and La Trémoille, set in a sumptuous, 19th-century townhouse. choice in Europe for U.S.-based same-sex couples For a bit of offbeat style, travelers can check into the Hôtel looking for a romantic place du Petit Moulin, a gay-friendly property with funky, colorto honeymoon.

Vibrant gay-friendly nightlife is ful décor by French fashion designer Christian Lacroix.

Paris is such a welcomamong the selling points with For a gay spin on France’s legendary dining scene, ing destination that the foodies head to one of the oldest “gay” restaurants, Le options may overwhelm some travelers.

Gai Moulin, opened in 1981. Its red banquettes have LGBTQ globetrotters. welcomed countless patrons of every sexual orientation, and its private dining and event Vibrant gay-friendly nightlife is among the selling space is available for corporate and family gatherings. points with some travelers. The Marais district For a personalized introduction to the city, consider hiring a private guide or taking boasts the highest concentration of after-dark fun, an LGBTQ tour. Experience Paris offers customized gay tours and trip planning, while Rue Montorgueil and Rue des Lombards including a “male beauty tour” of the Louvre Museum that focuses on artistic depicare also worth checking out. Famed DJ and protions of the male form. ducer Dactylo, who took over as creative director One of the biggest events of the year in Paris for LGBTQ locals and visitors is the of Gibus in 2015, helped to make that popular Gay, Lesbian, Bi and Trans Pride March, held in July. Attracting some 500,000 every nightclub a must-see hot spot with its ongoing year, the event brings together 90 organizations and more than 40 elaborately designed series of themed dance parties. floats, with plenty of music and a festive route that ends with a free concert on Place de When it comes to accommodations, LGBTQ la République. travelers will find even more options. A company

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2016

airport update

Addis Ababa Additions Bole International Airport strives to keep pace with the growth of African travel. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ

WITH TRAVEL TO AND FROM the African continent consistently on the rise, the air industry faces the need for constant expansions and upgrades to accommodate the growing numbers of both business and leisure travelers.

As Ethiopia’s largest city and capital, Addis Ababa witnessed some of the most significant increases in population and tourist numbers in recent years. Home to the African Union, the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa and several other major international organizations, the sprawling city emerged as the political capital of Africa. The city’s main airport, Addis Ababa Bole International, now ventures to supply the air services necessary to meet the rapidly growing national and international demand.

As the main hub and headquarters of Ethiopian Airlines — the national airline serving more than 35 cities across the African continent as well as Asia, Europe, North America and South America — Addis Ababa Bole is working closely with the airline on several improvement initiatives and expansion projects.

Addis Ababa Bole International has two terminals with a total of 11 gates. Terminal 1 serves domestic and regional flights for Ethiopian Airlines, EgyptAir, Sudan Airways and Yemenia Airways.

Terminal 2 serves international flights and the rest of the airlines that operate at the airport.

As part of its Vision 2025 plan, Ethiopian Airlines opened the first phase of its Cloud Nine Business Class Lounge at ADD in 2012, providing premium travelers access to modern facilities and high-end amenities. The second phase of the project includes a spa, private digital lockers and a traditional Ethiopian coffee corner.

In January 2015 Ethiopian Airports Enterprise launched an expansion project for the passenger terminal. The existing main terminal was designed for a capacity of 6 million passengers per year, but the terminal currently handles 8.5 million passengers, creating significant congestion during peak hours.

The project, currently underway, includes expansion of Terminals 1 and 2 and the construction of a new 74,000-square-foot VIP Terminal. Terminal 2 will be expanded and connected to Terminal 1. The VIP Terminal, designed by renowned Singapore architectural firm CGP, will feature a new car park facility, a large shopping area, cafés and restaurants, as well as modern business-class lounges, IT centers and offices. The project, currently 40 percent complete, is scheduled to finish by January 2018 and will allow the airport to handle 22 million passengers annually.

Even with these expansions and improvements, there is concern Addis Ababa Bole will reach capacity again in 10 years. With increasing air traffic, runway congestion due to only one runway and the fast growth of Ethiopian Airlines, the airport will need to develop further expansion plans to match rapid growth.

Supplemental plans appear to be in place to handle the increased traffic, as Ethiopian Airports Enterprise announced plans in September to build one of the largest airports in Africa,

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FEBRUARY 2017

FLIGHT PLANS:

Addis Ababa Bole International Airport (above), and Ethiopian Airlines aircraft at the airport (left) PHOTOS: © USKARP | DREAMSTIME.COM, © WIKTOR WOJTAS | DREAMSTIME.COM

estimated to handle 120 million passengers annually. The capacity of the new airport will reportedly be similar to Dubai (DXB) and Heathrow (LHR). The country currently has 20 airports, and the government plans to increase that number to 30 in five years, 25 of which will meet international standards.

As Ethiopia continues its energetic pursuit of cross-border trade, new business relationships and international tourism, Addis Ababa Bole International will play a key role in allowing travelers access to not only the key political and economic hub of Addis Ababa but also to surrounding cities and tourism destinations across the African continent.

ADDIS ABABA BOLE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT addisairport.com

health

Under Pressure Regular eye exams help prevent vision loss from glaucoma.

GLAUCOMA IS AN EYE DISEASE that can cause blindness. If caught early, it can usually be treated and controlled. Because glaucoma often has no symptoms, however, it is important to have yearly eye exams. Glaucoma begins when pressure builds up in the eye. This intraocular pressure can damage the optic nerve, which sends messages to the brain so we can see.

Glaucoma is the second most common cause of blindness in the United States.

African-Americans over the age of 40 and everyone over 60, especially Mexican-Americans, are at risk. For adults over 60, it is the leading cause of blindness.

The front of the eye is filled with the aqueous humor, a clear fluid made in an area behind the iris. It leaves the eye through channels where the iris and cornea meet called the anterior chamber angle. The cornea is the clear substance that covers the iris, pupil and angle.

Anything that slows or blocks the flow of this fluid causes pressure to build, resulting in one of four types of glaucoma: open angle, angle closure or closed angle, congenital and secondary. In open angle glaucoma, the increase in pressure is small and slow. In angle closure, the increase is often high and sudden.

Either type can damage the optic nerve.

Open angle glaucoma is the most common type and tends to run in families, though the cause is unknown. Your risk is higher if you have a parent or grandparent with open angle glaucoma. The pressure increases slowly over time and you cannot feel it. The increased pressure pushes on the optic nerve. Damage to the optic nerve causes blind spots in your vision. Most people have no symptoms with open angle glaucoma. Once vision loss occurs, the damage is already severe. The individual experiences a slow loss of side peripheral vision, a phenomenon known as tunnel vision.

Advanced glaucoma can lead to blindness.

Angle closure glaucoma occurs when

the fluid is suddenly blocked from flowing out of the eye, causing a quick, severe rise in pressure. Symptoms come and go at first or steadily become worse. You may notice sudden severe pain in one eye, decreased or cloudy vision (steamy vision) and nausea and vomiting. Other symptoms include rainbowlike halos around lights, red eye and eyes that feel swollen. Dilating eye drops and certain medications may trigger an acute glaucoma attack. If you had acute glaucoma in one eye, you are at risk for it in the second eye. Your ophthalmologist will likely treat your second eye to prevent a sudden attack in that eye.

Both open angle and angle closure glaucoma can be secondary when the cause is known. Causes include drugs such as corticosteroids, eye diseases such as uveitis (an infection in the middle layer of the eye), diseases such as diabetes, and eye injury. Secondary glaucoma presents symptoms often related to the underlying problem; depending on the cause, symptoms may either be like open or closed angle glaucoma.

Congenital glaucoma is present at birth and is caused when the eye does not develop normally. It often runs in families. Symptoms are most often noticed when a child is a few months old and include cloudiness of the front of the eye, enlargement of one eye or both eyes, red eye, sensitivity to light and tearing.

The only way to diagnose glaucoma is with a complete eye exam including a test to check eye pressure. In most cases, eye drops will dilate (widen) your pupil so the ophthalmologist can look inside your eye and at the optic nerve. Eye pressure varies at different times of the day; it can even be normal in some people with glaucoma. Your doctor may administer other tests to confirm glaucoma such as using a special lens to look at the angle of the eye, optic nerve imaging, checking your retina, checking how your pupil responds to light, 3D views of the eye, visual acuity testing and visual

BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN

field measurement.

The goal of treatment is to reduce eye pressure and depends on the type of glaucoma. If you have open angle glaucoma, you will probably use drops but may also need pills to lower pressure. If the drops do not work, you may require laser treatment to open the channel. If laser does not work, surgery may be required to release the fluid.

An acute closed angle attack is a medical emergency. If you have severe eye pain or sudden loss of vision, get immediate medical help. You can become blind in a few days if not treated. You may be treated with eye drops, pills and intravenous medication to lower your pressure. Some people require emergency eye surgery called an iridotomy, which uses a laser to open a new channel in the iris. The new channel relieves the attack and prevents another attack. To prevent an attack in the other eye, the procedure is often performed on that eye.

With secondary glaucoma, treating the cause may help symptoms go away. Other treatments may be needed. Congenital glaucoma is almost always treated with surgery, usually performed with general anesthesia.

Babies with congenital glaucoma do well when surgery is done early.

You can keep your eyesight by following your eye doctor’s directions. To prevent vision loss, have regular, complete eye exams as recommended by your ophthalmologist; she can find glaucoma early, when it is easiest to treat. All adults should have an exam by age 40. If you are at risk for glaucoma, have your eye exam earlier.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

FEBRUARY 2017

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PHOTOS: Š OMNI HOTELS AND RESORTS

past & present

King Edward Hotel Built in 1903, the King Edward Hotel was the first luxury hotel in Toronto. Top, a vintage postcard shows the exterior of the hotel, when it was the tallest building on the block, and patrons inside.

Bottom, the hotel recently underwent a $40 million renovation, transforming the guestrooms, meeting space, lobby, restaurant and bar while showcasiing the old-world charm .

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V QUIN TATUS TS Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card

Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card

Marriott Rewards Visa Signature Card from Chase

Marriott Rewards Visa Signature Card from Chase

Fifth Consecutive Year

Fifth Consecutive Year/Quint Status

2016

2016

V QUIN TATUS TS Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card

Marriott Rewards Visa Signature Card from Chase Fifth Consecutive Year

2016

V QUIN TATUS TS Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card

Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card

Marriott Rewards Visa Signature Card from Chase

Marriott Rewards Visa Signature Card from Chase

Fifth Consecutive Year

Fifth Consecutive Year/Quint Status

2016

2016

V QUIN TATUS TS Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card

Marriott Rewards Visa Signature Card from Chase Fifth Consecutive Year

2016