Page 1

Interview Patrick Pruniaux CEO Ulysse Nardin

Testbench Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Story On the road to discover BOVET 1822 Manufacture Visit Officine Panerai Manifattura Di Alta Orologeria

Performance and Style:

Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph GMT ME No 09 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2017

09

9 771660 110613


Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker


The Longines Master Collection


A H M E D S E D D I Q I & S O N S , D U BA I I A L M A N A R A , A B U D H A B I I A L AWA D I , S U LTA N AT E O F O M A N ASIA JEWELLERS, BAHRAIN I ATAMIAN, LEBANON I BEHBEHANI, KUWAIT I BLUE SALON, QATAR I KASHTIARAY, IRAN


VIRTUOSO VIII Patented double-face flying tourbillon; Variable inertia balance-wheel; More than 10 days power reserve with single barrel; Patented spherical winding system / 2 times faster than regular system; Big date set by secret pusher on the crown; Innovative case shape; Fully hand-engraved and decorated movement. LIMITED EDITION OF 39 TIMEPIECES

WWW.BOVET.COM FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE QUALITY FLEURIER CERTIFICATION AND PARTNER OF THE FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE


TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01 Chris Hemsworth works hard and chooses his roles carefully. He handles pressure by taming it, and turning it to his advantage. #DontCrackUnderPressure was coined with him in mind.


Laureato Skeleton Ceramic DOHA: Al Fardan Jewelry – Main showroom & Villagio Mall +974 44408408 RIYADH: Al Fardan Olaya St +966 11 462 1162 JEDDAH: Al Fardan Tahliya St +966 12 664 0074 ABU DHABI: Al Fardan Nation Towers +971 2 674 5000 DUBAI: Al Fardan Dubai Mall +971 4 339 9330 & Mall Of Emirates +971 4 341 4241 BEIRUT: Salamoon - Park Avenue +961 1 992 117 KUWAIT: Ghadah Jewlery – Salihiya +965 22400951 +965 22400952


Watchmaker to outstanding Personalities

Inventor of the Chronograph (1816)

International Multi-Award Winner


www.louismoinet.com

Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, info@louismoinet.com


EXCLUSIVE AGENT BONUS EVENTUS FZE Phone : +971 552 255 343 Email : jbeainy@bonuseventus.ae

CYRUS-WATCHES.CH - INFO@CYRUS-WATCHES.CH


KLEPCYS CHRONOGRAPH Limited edition 100 pieces Ref. 539.501.SD.A

CYRUS-WATCHES.CH - INFO@CYRUS-WATCHES.CH


PAT RAV I T RAV E LT EC I I C H RONOG RA P H

|

T H RE E T IM E ZONES

THE DU BA I MA L L , DU BA I , +97 1 4 3 398496 BU RJ A L A RA B HOTEL , DU BA I , +97 1 4 3 3 861 89 BU RJ U MA N CENTR E , DU BA I , +97 1 4 3 5551 91 MA L L OF EMI RATE S , DU BA I , +97 1 4 3 41 3 12 1 THE GA L L ER I A , A L MA RYA H I S L A ND, +97 1 2 64 32 2 04


We’re devoted to the classic. But reject the status quo. We keep the best of the past. The best watchmaking practices, the best designs. And push the boundaries of what’s new. Born for a purpose. Field-tested to the extreme. For those who are up for anything. Those who face their fears. Those who reinvent themselves every day. A TUDOR is #BornToDare


#BornToDare

BLACK BAY S&G


Editorial Winter 2017

Dear GMT Middle East readers, Before the advert of the railway, owning a watch was a mark of wealth, but afterwards it became proof of civilization. There is no civilization without railways, and these are no railways without watches. Watchmaking, that real social regulator, did indeed make a decisive contribution to the emergence of industrial civilization, by enabling the coordination of production, transport, logistics and thus the circulation of goods and merchandise. But in its way, watchmaking also helped to enslave workers, by subjecting them to the inflexible dictatorship of timetables and the tyranoy of the punch card. Today, the smartwatch takes this enslavement event further. The laboratory of this new era of civilization is not mighty industry, steel or the railways. No it’s not finance or more accurately, what is known as «Behavioral Finance”. Research carried out at Cambridge University beginning in 2009 showed that physical attributes play an important role in the financial success of stock market traders, whose emotions fluctuate widely, who are obliged to take spit. Second decisions and work in an ultra competetive environment. These factors are all major stresses. It turns out that heart rate, perspiration and accelerated movements are all stress indicators and they can all now be a smartwatch. Until next issue,

FADI JAMIL Publisher Editor-in-Chief

Interview

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM

Patrick Pruniaux CEO Ulysse Nardin

Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com

Testbench Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph

Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: RONALDO ROBLES | ronaldo.robles@gmtmag-me.com

Story On the road to discover BOVET 1822

Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com

Manufacture Visit Officine Panerai Manifattura Di Alta Orologeria

Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

Performance and Style:

Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph GMT ME No 09 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2017

09

9 771660 110613

GMT ME MAGAZINE NO9 2017

22 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.


For this watch, we put the biggest focus on the smallest unit of time. And gave it the biggest stage.

The emphasis in the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is on super-

jumping seconds mechanism advances the blued seconds hand by

ior precision – and thus on the smallest of the three displayed units

exactly 60 steps per minute. Additionally, thanks to the Zero-Reset

of time, the second. On the regulator dial, it occupies the largest

function, the watch can be quickly and conveniently synchronised

circle. Powered by a one-second constant-force escapement, the

with a time signal – precisely to the second. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:

A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae

ME_ARE_C_BTQDubai_GMT_RLJS_PL_220x285_ATMO-270-17.indd 1

16.10.17 15


Contents Winter 2017

COVER STORY p.72

MANUFACTURE VISIT p.78

INTERVIEW p.86

Editorial 22 Contents 24-28 Contributors 30 Business News Hot News

32 38-66

Cover Story Performance & Style | Montblanc 72-76 Manufacture Visit Officine Panerai Manifattura Di Alta Orologeria

78-85

Interview Patrick Pruniaux | CEO Ulysse Nardin

86-88

Story On the road to discover | Bovet 1822

24 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

90-93


3 D AYS A U TO M AT I C ACC I A I O - 4 5 m m ( R E F. 674 )

PANERAI BOUTIQUES DUBAI • ABU DHABI • BEIRUT • KUWAIT • MANAMA • MUSCAT • RIYADH • JEDDAH • AL KHOBAR PANERAI.COM


Contents Winter 2017

INTERVIEW p.100

FOCUS p.119

The Selection

TEST BENCH p.104

94-97

Interview Carlos A. Rosillo | CEO, Bell & Ross

100-103

Test Bench Tudor | Heritage Black Bay Chronograph

104-107

Focus 108-123 Technique 124-129 Collector’s Corner

130-133

Technique Micro-Rotor, maxi possibilities 134-139 Unique Piece Watches

26 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

142-144

FOCUS p.122


Contents Winter 2017

ZOOM p.190

ZOOM p.184

ZOOM p.189

PORTFOLIO p.150

Portfolio 146-153 Craftmanship Homo Faber | Spotlighting Savoir Faire

154-156

At the Heart of the Movement

158-159

Bewitching Gemsetting

160-161

Lambert | Fils & Filles tick to the beat of a new generation 162-161 Design Grand Simplification

164-166

Architecture Lines in Motion

168-169

Jet-Set Another Luminary in the world of BVLGARI Hotels & Resort

170-173

Zoom 174-192

28 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


The E-Class CoupĂŠ. Powered by Intelligence.


Contributors By Brice Lechevalier

Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

30

Paul O’Neil

Marie De Pimodan

The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.

An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Architecture column.

Marie Le Berre

David Chokron

An expert watch journalist, she offers themed selections of new models.

An expert watch journalist and regular WorldTempus.com correspondent, he provides content for our Technical column.

Michèle Brunner

Gabriel Miles

Publishing Manager at WorldTempus.com and an experienced writer, she looks at brand events and products.

A watchmaking professional with a penchant for history, this passionate enthusiast who prefers to remain anonymous reports on some of the industry’s most highprofile events.

Christophe Persoz

Cloé Mugny

This experienced watchmaker analyses a watch that he wears for an entire week and delivers his technical and aesthetic verdict.

An intern in the publishing department and a translator, she is also penning her first articles.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


PAT RAV I S CU BAT EC C HR O NO ME T E R

|

H E L I U M VA LV E

THE DU BA I MA L L , DU BA I , +97 1 4 3 398496 BU RJ A L A RA B HOTEL , DU BA I , +97 1 4 3 3 861 89 BU RJ U MA N CENTR E , DU BA I , +97 1 4 3 5551 91 MA L L OF EMI RATE S , DU BA I , +97 1 4 3 41 3 12 1 THE GA L L ER I A , A L MA RYA H I S L A ND, +97 1 2 64 32 2 04


Business news By Brice Lechevalier

Jérôme Lambert

Jérôme Lambert has been entrusted with the reins of Richemont, which has specifically created the new executive role of Chief Operating Officer, meaning he will now be responsible for all the group’s watch and jewelry Maisons other than Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. The former CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre and Montblanc will continue to be responsible for the Richemont regional support platforms and central support services, which he has been managing since 2016.

Raymond Loretan

Raymond Loretan has agreed to take up the baton from Carlo Lamprecht by becoming the new President of the Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The experience garnered during a solid diplomatic career until 2007, followed by Swiss economic and political responsibilities at the highest echelons, will prove valuable assets in overseeing the development of the GPHG.

Pierre Jacques

Pierre Jacques is back with a bang at De Bethune after putting together a new close-knit group of complementary shareholders who will support him as shareholder, CEO and Chairman of the Board of Directors. After a two-year interlude at the helm of MCT, he is thus retuning to the brand that he had significantly developed over the previous five-year period. Prior to that, the co-founder of GMT had also headed Les Ambassadeurs in Geneva and the GPHG.

Emmanuel Perrin

Emmanuel Perrin has been promoted Head of Specialist Watchmakers Distribution at Richemont, of which he is also joining the Executive Committee, in order to coordinate the distribution strategies of the brands within this category, in cooperation with Jérôme Lambert. This appointment rewards his 25-year international career at the head of major subsidiaries of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.

32

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Walter Ribaga

Walter Ribaga has recently been appointed Managing Director of Cyrus Watches, after 30 years in marketing and sales within the industry for such varied brands as TAG Heuer, Movado, Sigma, Swiss Time Technology and more recently Maîtres du Temps.


NEBULA ROYAL COLLECTION

Swiss Craftsmanship

www.arnoldandson.com


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

Dubai Watch Week 2017 held at DIFC NOVEMBER 16-20, 2017 - Under the Patronage of Her Highness Sheikha Latifa Bint Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice Chairman of Dubai Culture & Arts Authority and founded by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, and in partnership with Gate Avenue at DIFC, Dubai Watch Week returns for its third edition with a new purpose-built structure situated at the Gate Building, accommodating more exhibiting luxury watch brands than before. The theme of Dubai Watch Week 2017 explores Classic & Contemporary by showcasing traditional craftsmanship and examining contemporary techniques. Visitors will discover the evolution of the watch industry through the presentation of timepieces from heritage and new brands. On display will be vintage timepieces, new models or designs inspired by historical watchmaking or techniques. Presenting various impressive exhibitions, enlightening talks, and interactive programs, visitors will embark on a wonderful and educational journey of horology, witnessing the evolution of time in the watch industry. Leaders, collectors, members of the media and watch enthusiasts are coming together for a common passion of preserving the culture of horology and watchmaking.

38

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

The Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 wins the Mechanical Exception Watch Prize in the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 8TH 2017 – The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie

In accepting the award during the GPHG prize-giving ceremony,

de Genève has awarded the Mechanical Exception Watch Prize

Louis Ferla, CEO Vacheron Constantin, said: “It is truly an honour

to Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical

for a Maison of connoisseurs such as Vacheron Constantin to

Grand Complication 3600. Five years of development and the

win this prize for excellence, awarded by a jury also composed

involvement of a dedicated master- watchmaker were required to

of recognised experts and connoisseurs. The Celestia is a model

create this exceptional model that pushes the limits of innovation

perfectly reflecting our DNA: watchmaking expertise and a

and excellence.

profoundly human adventure perpetuated since 1755, along with

This tourbillon watch with a three-week power reserve features

a spirit of innovation and a consistently forward-driven approach

23 essentially astronomical complications appearing on the front

that enables us to continually push technical boundaries.”

and back dials, providing time read-off in three modes – civil,

Pursuing the path traced by Reference 57260 – the world’s most

solar and sidereal – each driven by its own gear train. This model

complicated watch equipped with 57 complications – which won

acknowledged by the industry, collectors and connoisseurs for

the Special Jury Prize in 2015, the Celestia Astronomical Grand

its engineering and its technical sophistication houses a fully

Complication 3600 is a bright new star in the Fine Watchmaking

integrated 514-part calibre measuring a mere 8.7 mm thick.

firmament.

40 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

Hublot ends the F1 Season at the 2017 Formula 1 Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand PrixTM with an Action-Packed Weekend aboard the Hublot Yacht at Yas Marina! In the presence of CEO of Hublot Ricardo Guadalupe, friends of the brand, international celebrities, partners and clients. 26 NOVEMBER 2017 – This year is one of merriment for Hublot;

“The atmosphere at the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix is always

from “The Art of Fusion” festivities across the continents to

exceptional! This year the GP coincides with the 70th anniversary

Ferrari’s 70th anniversary, the Swiss watchmaker has a lot to

of Scuderia Ferrari, so we decided to offer our customers, friends

celebrate with its partners, clients and friends. As 2017 nears

and partners a unique Hublot experience on our own Hublot

its end, so does the Formula 1 season with its last race, the Abu

Yacht,” said Ricardo Guadalupe.

Dhabi Formula 1 Grand Prix. True to form, Hublot comes back

The Hublot identity was highly visible on the yacht; the all

to Yas Marina in full throttle to cheer for the Ferrari drivers, on

black vessel donned the brand’s name with pride. A pop-up

board its lavish Hublot Okto Yacht.

boutique welcomed visitors in the comfort of its warm space,

On November 24, 25 and 26, CEO of Hublot Ricardo Guadalupe

allowing them to discover the manufacture’s novelties, with

welcomed aboard the Hublot Yacht: Friends of the Brand Arab

this year’s star collection, the Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon

Superstar Ragheb Alama; Lapo Elkann and Carlos Fuente Jr.;

Chronograph. Unveiled in March at Baselworld, the collection

international music and Hollywood celebrities Rick Ross, French

celebrates Ferrari’s 70th anniversary. Created and designed by

Montana and Tyrese; Hublotistas and guests flying in from

Ferrari, under the leadership of Head of Design Flavio Manzoni,

around the globe to enjoy the brand’s incomparable hospitality.

the new Techframe Ferrari 70 Years Tourbillon Chronograph

From practice sessions and qualifiers to the emotional podium,

resembles one of the super cars produced in Maranello. And with

the action-packed weekend was filled with precision, accuracy

good reason: this watch was designed by Ferrari using the same

and excitement, which guests witnessed from the luxury of the

creative processes as those used to develop a new sports car. The

yacht’s various decks while enjoying a full gastronomy experience

starting point for the designers was the Hublot movement -the

brought by Moët Hennessy along with Four Seasons Hotels &

“engine” of the watch- around which they freely designed a high

Resorts and their Mercury and Luna Sky Bar lounges. Keeping the

performance chassis. Like that of a Ferrari, its lattice structure

atmosphere joyful was famous DJ Pierre Ravan, while surprise

-which is unique in the world of watchmaking- offers maximum

performances by Ragheb Alama and Rick Ross wowed everyone

strength for minimal weight.

on board.

42 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

An Impressive Result for the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid Unique Piece at Only Watch 2017 Charity Auction. SATURDAY THE 11TH OF NOVEMBER at the Four Seasons Hotel

In the span of two hours, the Only Watch 2017 auction saw 50

des Bergues in Geneva, the Only Watch 2017 charity auction

lots of unique timepieces from 50 prestigious brands and creators,

under the patronage of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco took

attracting bidders from all over the world. Lot 48 was the Arnold

place, conducted by Christie’s Watch Department. Arnold & Son’s

& Son Time Pyramid, one of the final lots in the auction. After

unique Time Pyramid for Only Watch 2017 sold for CHF 38’000,

receiving bids from buyers in the room as well as over the phone,

contributing to the raised total of CHF 10’776’500.

the unique Time Pyramid ultimately sold for CHF 38’000 - well

An occasion coveted by discerning watch collectors, the biennial

above the original estimate of CHF 25’000 – 35’000.

Only Watch auction offers buyers the chance to acquire unique

In total, the 50 lots of the Only Watch 2017 charity auction raised

timepieces while benefiting a great cause, the Association

CHF 10’776’500, with 99% of proceeds going to the Association

Monégasque contre les Myopathies, which funds research on

Monégasque contre les Myopathies to fund research for

Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy treatment, with administration

For its 7th edition, Arnold & Son decided to join Only Watch 2017

costs running at under 1%.

by creating a unique Time Pyramid watch, offering a bold and

Arnold & Son thanks all the bidders for their generosity and

contemporary execution on the singular skeleton timepiece with

congratulates the buyer on acquiring the unique Time Pyramid

striking black, red and white accents.

and aiding a noble cause.

44 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

At the special event dinner, President and CEO of OMEGA Mr. Raynald Aeschlimann extended a warm welcome to all present and called the new watches “exceptional new editions to the Aqua Terra family”, before welcoming guest of honour Eddie Redmayne, who he referred to as an “extremely talented actor and an absolute gentleman”. Eddie Redmayne, who is the face of OMEGA’s new Aqua Terra gents’ campaign, went on to say how impressed he was with the new “refined and symmetrical look” of the latest watches and insisted that “there’s no substitute for classic style”. He also spoke warmly about his partnership with OMEGA, saying “I’m a history buff and I love OMEGA’s rich legacy”.

Eddie Redmayne joins OMEGA in Venice to

celebrate the new Aqua Terra collection

Though the speeches were delivered at tables to keep the atmosphere relaxed and casual, the food had been meticulously prepared by legendary Italian chef Carlo Cracco, who even took time between courses to greet assembled guests. OMEGA’s Seamaster Aqua Terra has always provided the perfect balance between sophistication and ocean spirit. In this new collection, some of the most popular features have been enhanced or subtly transformed. The most notable changes include the teak pattern on the dial which now runs horizontally, as opposed to vertically, as well as the refined aesthetics and symmetrical case. Cased in stainless steel, 18K Sedna™ gold or a mixture of both, the

AS THE SEAMASTER’S iconic logo was inspired by the seahorse

Aqua Terra Gents’ Collection offers an incredible choice of looks.

emblems on the side of Venice gondolas, the floating city was

There are black, brown, blue, grey or silvery dials and a diverse

OMEGA’s first choice of location for its special tribute to Aqua

selection of bracelets and straps, including steel, leather and

Terra, with guest Eddie Redmayne.

structured rubber.

The beautiful city of Venice served as the perfect backdrop for

Certified as Master Chronometers, the collection also takes the

OMEGA’s special Aqua Terra event, attended by a host of VIP

Aqua Terra to new heights of precision and performance.

guests, including award-winning actor and friend of the brand -

Amongst the many guests at the event were U.K models David

Eddie Redmayne.

Gandy and Oliver Cheshire, who was accompanied by his fiancée,

The event, which took place in the luxurious surroundings of

U.K singer, Pixie Lott; Indonesian actor Nicholas Saputra, Japanese

the Palazzo Pisani Moretta, began with a chance for guests to

actor Ryohei Otani; and from the Philippines actress Lovi Poe.

acquaint themselves with the new Aqua Terra models, which were

Also in attendance were Hong Kong actress Fala Chen and Italian

presented across five beautifully-decorated rooms, to allow clear

celebrity guests included singer Emma Marrone, actress Miriam

views and free movement.

Leone; actors Alessandro Preziosi and Adriano Giannini.

46 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


BOLT-68 CHRONOGRAPH SWISS MADE

THE BOLT-68 COLLECTION INCLUDES THE CHAIN AND MEDALLION FOR TURNING YOUR EXCLUSIVE TIMEPIECE INTO A DISRUPTIVE POCKET WATCH WWW.BOMBERGWATCHES.COM • FOLLOW US ON


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

TAG Heuer launches official countdown of Dubai Cycling Tour TAG Heuer continues its long affiliation with cycling by officially beginning the countdown to the fifth Dubai Tour and announcing the #DontCrackUnderPressure prize at the official Dubai Tour Press Conference. The Dubai Tour covers five stages where world-class cyclists compete from the tip of the Palm Jumeirah, throughout the city, and into the desert in an effort to claim the title. DUBAI, UAE – DECEMBER 19, at the occasion of the official Dubai

endurance cyclists, with the result that the tour can be won or

Tour Press Conference at City Walk, where the 2018 winner’s

lost in a matter of seconds. The uphill finish on the pivotal stage

jersey of the Dubai Tour has been unveiled along with the new

four is the one exception, with competitors battling a slope of

Dubai Tour routes, TAG Heuer launched the official countdown of

17% as well as each other, through the desert dunes.

the race and announced the ‘Don’t Crack Under Pressure’ prize by awarding a TAG Heuer watch at the end of the tour.

TAG HEUER AND CYCLING

In cycling every second matters and even the minutest timing

The first pairing of professional cycling with the brand dates back

errors can negate hours of strenuous exertion. With 16 World

to 1946, when pocket chronometers for measuring time during

Tour Teams competing for the winner’s jersey amidst the golden

races and trials are first mentioned in the brochure of Swiss

sand dunes and the iconic city of Dubai, every second counts.

watchmaker HEUER. In 1985 — more than 30 years ago — TAG

The Dubai Tour is an annual stage race on the international

Heuer ventured in earnest into the world of professional cycling

circuit, which covers more than 750 km over five distinct stages.

as sponsor of the HEUER SKIL SEM team and its leader Sean Kelly.

The 2018 tour, beginning on February 6, is the fifth instalment

From 1986-1987 to 1990, the brand’s involvement continued with

of the prolific race that sees riders cover hundreds of kilometres a

Team KAS TAG HEUER and the American 7-Eleven Cycling Team,

day, through the desert and the city of Dubai.

founded by none other than

Marcel Kittel, successfully defended his 2016 Dubai Tour title last

Jim Ochowicz – the current President and General Manager of

year, but the World Tour teams will be out to make amends this

BMC Racing Team. In 2017, already a partner of BMC Racing

time around. The Dubai Tour is a very different race from those

Team, TAG Heuer will now be partnering 10 major races in the

that wind through the European Alps. With four out of the five

international calendar.

stages almost pan-flat, the terrain favours sprinters rather than

48 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

Breguet enriches its historical collection with a 1960s Type XX Chronograph The Breguet Museum and its President, Marc A. Hayek, are delighted to announce the acquisition of a superb 1967 Type XX chronograph. This remarkably well-preserved timepiece serves as a reminder of Breguet’s deep involvement in the field of aviation, a relationship that has given rise to the Type XX contemporary watch collection. It went under the hammer in New York on Thursday, October 26, at a Phillips auction dedicated to 50 iconic 20th century models. THE ENDURING SUCCESS of the House of Breguet partly stems

forces: the famous chronograph was to equip the French Air

from its ability for perpetual reinvention. While purely watch-

Force and Naval Aviation until the early 1980s. These models

related activities are of course the heart and soul of the brand,

were so highly sought-after that the House decided to issue a

the interests pursued by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s descendants

civilian version. With or without an hour totaliser, but always

have sometimes extended well beyond the field of horology, such

including the flyback function, these timepieces feature slight

as those of Louis Breguet. Perpetuating the genius of his great-

variations (relating to rotating bezels, winding crowns, dials)

great-grandfather, he ventured into the conquest of the skies in

that continue to delight collectors.

1907. Louis Breguet soon made a name for himself in this domain

The Type XX chronograph newly acquired by the House of

thanks to several notable inventions including the gyroplane, the

Breguet belongs to the first generation of these timepieces. It is

ancestor of the helicopter, and the famous two-seater Breguet

distinguished by a brushed steel case with slightly curving lugs.

XIV plane. In parallel with the aeronautical activities of the Louis

Its 38.5 mm case frames a dark brown dial bearing luminescent

Breguet aviation company, the Breguet watch firm developed

hands and Arabic numerals. This model produced in 1967 was

chronograph mechanisms fitted on aircraft cockpits and began

initially sold on January 26, 1968.

producing watches for aviators. In 1935, it introduced its first

This new acquisition is enriching the broad collection of historical

wrist chronographs. Twenty or so years later, Breguet launched

Breguet watches presented in its Paris and Zurich museums, as

production of the Type XX commissioned by the French armed

well as their Shanghai counterpart.

50 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


EmbRAcE timE

DARWEL PR

our story, our brand, our passion. carole & Pierre Dubois

carole and Pierre Dubois. A love story that gives a unique beat to their lives and their watch creations. Pictured here, two his and hers world-exclusive Royal Retro models with their six dancing retrograde seconds hands.

PiERRE DERochE - LE REvERs 1 - 1345 LE LiEu - sWitzERLAnD - t. +41 21 841 11 69 - WWW.PiERREDERochE.com


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

Manero Flyback good things come in threes CARL F. BUCHERER launches three new variants of the Manero Flyback. A sophisticated chronograph movement with Flyback function ticks in a classic case made from warm 18-karat red gold or stainless steel. Three different dials in bluish-grey, black and champagne provide a totally unique look – short-time measurement with a certain something. A certain something with a classic look – this is the mark of

CLASSIC ROUNDED LINES

the Manero series in the collection by Carl F. Bucherer. This is

In either red gold or stainless steel, the case reflects the lines

especially true for the Manero Flyback, available in a red gold or

typical of the Manero series, featuring its classic and modern

stainless steel case, exhibited in its new variants at Baselworld.

round dial measuring 43 mm in diameter. Precise contours

The traditional brand from Lucerne has given the watch dial

around the edges add an esthetic contrast to the soft curves of the

special attention and created three highly unique timepieces,

bezel. The polished push buttons controlling the chronograph

each with its own character.

function not only emphasize the classic character of the watch, they are also highly functional with their larger surface area.

STYLISH, CLASSIC AND PRECIOUS

This means the chronograph can be adjusted with just slight

The Manero Flyback is the perfect companion for the modern

pressure from the fingertip.

gentleman with a love of refined technology. The Flyback chronograph presents a cool and stylish look with its stainless

CHRONOGRAPH WITH ADDITIONAL FUNCTIONALITY

steel case and its cockpit framed in a matt bluish-grey shade.

The Manero Flyback chronograph is powered by the sophisticated

Depending on the light, the color reflections vary between a soft

CFB 1970 caliber, an automatic movement with a power reserve

green and a subtle blue. The hands and raised indices in stainless

of 42 hours. Short-time measurement is regulated using a

steel as well as with an alligator leather strap in gray round off

gearwheel; it also offers a Flyback function that enables several

the stylish look. The Manero in its 18-karat red gold case with

time intervals to be measured consecutively. The term flyback

matt black dial exudes a classic, pure style. The counters for both

refers to the movement performed by the stop hands when the

the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the stop minute at 3 o’clock are

reset button is pushed while the stopwatch is running. The

recessed and give the dial a sense of three-dimensionality with

chronograph hands fly back to zero, while the wheels continue

the raised outer flange. The design of the red gold chronograph

to run in the background – allowing the hands to resume as soon

is closely based on Carl F. Bucherer’s new visual identity and

as the reset button is released. With conventional timepieces, it

leaves a particularly exquisite impression. The primary color of

is necessary to press the button three times in order to measure

the galvanized dial is a shimmering golden shade of champagne.

successive time intervals: To stop the chronograph, reset and

The red gold color of the case harmonizes with the hands and ten

re-measure. The three new variants of the Manero Flyback once

raised indices.

again emphasize the savoir-faire cultivated by Carl F. Bucherer in the heart of Switzerland since 1888.

52

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

The Longines Avigation BigEye: Grand Winner of the Price “Revival” of the 2017 Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève GENEVA (SWITZERLAND) / SAINT-IMIER (SWITZERLAND), NOVEMBER 8, 2017 - The Swiss watch brand Longines is awarded the Price “Revival” at the 2017 ceremony of the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. Its model The Longines Avigation BigEye succeed in

convincing the higly specialized Jury. This model of the Heritage

line is a reinterpretation of a chronograph with a design from the 1930es, in keeping with the great tradition of pilot watches. The brand has a long-standing relationship with the field of aviation.

With its rich watchmaking tradition, Longines places particular importance on the work of memory. The brand with the winged hourglass thus continues to acquire new watches to enrich its

museum’s collection, which traces the brand’s 185-year history.

The Longines Avigation BigEye is a reinterpretation of one of its recent acquisitions, a model with an assertive look that succeed in convincing the Jury of the GPHG and won the Price in the “Revival” category for the best reinterpretation of an iconic

historical model, during a ceremony at the Théâtre du Léman in 54 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Geneva, convening 1,350 guests – representing influential players

in the watchmaking, political and economic arenas – to celebrate the quest for excellence, creativity and passion that drives the watch industry.

The Longines Avigation BigEye is inspired by a chronograph

whose aesthetic is typical of the great age of aviation. True to the

spirit of pilots’ watches, this model displays a very readable dial with a focus on the minute counter and impressive push buttons that enable the wearer to handle them while wearing gloves.

The 41 mm diameter case of The Longines Avigation BigEye

houses a L688 column wheel chronograph movement produced

exclusively for Longines. Its semi-glossy black dial is decorated

with Arabic numerals coated with SuperLuminova©, and displays a small second hand at 9 o’clock as well as a 12-hour counter at 6

o’clock. The oversized 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock adds a touch

of aesthetic originality to this timepiece. A domed crystal and a brown leather watch strap add vintage elegance to the piece.


THE MOST ADVANCED RACING WATCH THE MOST ADVANCED WATCH FOR RACING THE HALDA RACE PILOT IS BASED ON THE UNIQUE HALDA CONCEPT OF INTERCHANGEABLE TIME MODULES, A MECHANICAL AND AN ELECTRONIC RACE MODULE – EACH ONE ADAPTED FOR OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE IN ITS RESPECTIVE ENVIRONMENT. THE MECANICHAL MODULE CELEBRATES THE HALDA HISTORY AND OUR PASSION FOR MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS. IT IS EQUIPPED WITH THE BEST ENGINE TO BE FOUND, A MOVEMENT FROM ONE OF THE MOST HIGHLY REGARDED SWISS PRODUCERS – ZENITH. THE RACE MODULE IS DEVELOPED IN CLOSE COOPERATION WITH RACE DRIVERS, WITH FUNCTIONS THAT TRULY MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN PROFESSIONAL AND AMATEUR RACING. BY ADDING THE TRACKMASTER – A MILITARY GRADE GPS UNIT THAT SHOWS HOW THE DRIVER IS PERFORMING AGAINST THE BEST LAP, WE HAVE STRETCHED THE LIMITS OF TIMEKEEPING EVEN FURTHER.

HALDA WATCH Co | INFO@HALDASWEDEN.COM | +46 8 778 84 78

WWW.HALDASWEDEN.COM


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

The Defy Lab wins the GPHG 2017 Innovation Watch Prize ON NOVEMBER 8TH 2017 IN GENEVA, in front of an audience

edge technologies based on the latest research in horology and in

composed of leading personalities and rep-resentatives of the

the science of materials, the aptly named Defy Lab represents a

Swiss watch industry, the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de

major watchmaking breakthrough. Its new mono-lithic oscillator

Genève unveiled its prize list, including the Innovation Watch

in monocrystalline silicon, coated with a silicon oxide layer,

Prize awarded to Zenith for its Defy Lab. A fitting reward for the

replaces the 30 or so com-ponents of a conventional regulating

world’s most accurate watch, with which Zenith is writing its

organ – and in doing so does away with all the stages normally

future as well as that of the entire Swiss watch industry.

required for the latter, such as assembly, adjustment, setting, testing and lubrication. Beating at the incredible frequency

“I congratulate the Zenith teams as well as the R&D Institute

of 15Hz and boasting a generous 60 hours of autonomy, this

of the LVMH Watches Division. Through this synergy of

revolutionary movement achieves a mean daily precision of 0.3

competencies devoted to serving Zenith, they have demonstrated

seconds, a degree of performance that it maintains for 95% of

and confirmed that Zenith now represents the future of the

its power reserve. Insensitive to gravity and dispensing with any

traditional watchmaking art.” declared Jean-Claude Biver, President of LVMH Watch Division. “We are truly proud to receive this prize, which we see as the most important of them all. Here at Zenith, we are determined to instil a genuine start-up spirit and to reconnect the brand with innovation, the driving force for growth since our founding 152 years ago. It is a real reward and a token of recognition for the

need for lubricants, the Defy Lab is triple certified: for its precision duly recognised by the Chronometer title awarded by Be-sançon Observatory; for its exceptional insensitivity to temperature changes far exceeding the ISO-3159 standard; as well as for its outstanding resistance to magnetic fields up to 1,100 Gauss, which is 18 times better than the ISO-764 standard. And to attire this distillation of innovation and technology, Zenith has chosen the world’s lightest aluminium composite, Aeronith. This is the fifth time that Zenith has won a prize at the Grand

work accomplished by our entire staff! Once again, a big thank

Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

you to the jury of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and to all

It is also worth noting that the Chronomaster El Primero Grande

my teams.” Julien Tornare, CEO Zenith.

Date Full Open was nominated in the Calendar Watch category of the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

DEFY LAB IN A NUTSHELL Boldly defying the sprung balance regulating-organ principle that has prevailed since 1675, and in-stead calling on cutting-

56 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


LIVE YOUR

PASSION

MANUFACTURE CLASSIC MOONPHASE ARABIC HERITAGE EDITION Handcrafted in-house movement. Manufacture Collection: in-house developed, in-house produced and in-house assembled movements.

More information on frederiqueconstant.com


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

Richard Mille Rm 07-01 in Gem-Set Black Ceramic WITH A WIDE RANGE OF MODELS already available, the Ladies’

way diamonds are incorporated, thanks to way the mitraillage

collection certainly allows any woman to find the right watch for

is performed by machining the material directly.’ Separately

her wrist, however, Richard Mille continues to add to the variety

produced, and carefully polished to ensure a perfectly even feel,

of materials, gem settings and bracelets with an exclusive gem-set

red gold prongs are embedded in the many settings, each 0.25

ceramic. With this unprecedented marriage of diamond and black

millimetre in diameter, receiving and holding fast the diamonds

ceramic, the brand illustrates its indefatigable determination to

placed by the gem-setter. These are full-cut stones, selected for

develop its offerings for women who are as much fascinated by

their exceptional clarity. Thus do the velvety black of the ceramic

technicity as by beauty.

and the sparkle of diamonds set each other off spectacularly.

In addition to its exceptional hardness and scratch resistance,

The case in gem-set black ceramic and red gold houses an

black TZP ceramic possesses an extremely fine grain, ensuring

in-house Calibre CRMA2, an automatic movement assembled on

a perfect finish with a matte effect. The latter is the outcome of

a baseplate and bridges crafted in grade 5 titanium. Its variable-

a long and delicate process of milling and micro-shot peening,

geometry rotor in 18-carat 5N red gold makes it possible to adjust

whereas showcasing the complex shapes of the bezel and case

the automatic winding to the activity levels of its wearer. At

bottom requires the intervention of a finisher, who polishes each

the heart of this calibre, the dial in 5N red gold set with black

angle by hand.

onyx and diamonds sits like a discrete echo of the technical feat

‘After our work on setting gems in Carbon TPT®, we wanted

displayed by the bezel.

to extend this innovative setting technique to new materials,’

The RM 07-01 Black Ceramic will be on view for a sneak peek at

explains Cécile Guenat, Technical Director for Jewellery-making

the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva during

at Richard Mille. ‘We naturally gravitated to ceramic, because it

January 2018.

had never been done before. There is now no subterfuge in the

58 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

Naomi Campbell stuns in Piaget at the 2018 Pirelli Calendar Launch NEW YORK – NOVEMBER 14, 2017 – Last Friday, Supermodel Naomi Campbell, made a major statement in Piaget jewelry and timepieces to celebrate the launch of the 2018 Pirelli Calendar. Ms. Campbell was shot for the calendar, which reimagines characters from Alice in Wonderful.The black tie affair took place at The Manhattan Center in New York. One of original supermodels, Ms. Campbell walked the red carpet in a glittering red gown wearing the Piaget Limelight Gala watch in 18-carat rose gold set with diamonds along with a Piaget Rose bracelet. Earlier in the day, the British model also wore the Piaget Sunny Side of Life Manchette cuff watch in white gold with diamonds and featuring a lapis lazuli dial for the press conference held at The Pierre Hotel.

60 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Sean “Diddy” Combs and Naomi Campbell attend Pirelli Calendar 2018 Press Conference and Launch Gala


Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium. Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler. Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter. Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

Harry Allen appointed Longines Rising Star 2017 MONTEVIDEO

(URUGUAY)

/

SAINT-IMIER

(SWITZERLAND),

21

NOVEMBER 2017 – As FEI’s Top Partner, the Swiss watchmaking

brand Longines took part to the FEI Awards Ceremony and was

proud to grant Irish 16-year-old jumping rider Harry Allen the 2017 Longines Rising Star Award as well as presenting the

laureate with an elegant Longines timepiece. Despite his young

age, Harry already has a long list of his own successes with a total of 20 international wins. In addition, the winged hourglass

brand announced its involvement with FEI Solidarity – which aims to promote and develop equestrian sport – by supporting

the “FEI Solidarity Retraining of Racehorses in partnership with Longines”.

On 21 November 2017, at the prestigious 2017 FEI Awards

Ceremony held in Montevideo, Uruguay, Irish jumping rider

Harry Allen was presented the Longines Rising Star by Juan-Carlos Capelli, Vice President of Longines and Head of International Marketing.

The

promising

linked with sports and the values that it upholds, including the

Longines Rising Ski Stars prize offered to the best woman athlete

under the age of 21 and male athlete under 23 taking part in the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup, the Longines Future Ski Champions competition for athletes under 16, the Longines Future Tennis

Aces tournament organized for children under 13, running in parallel to the Roland-Garros tournament, and the Longines Future Racing Stars open to young jockeys at the Prix de Diane Longines.

LONGINES AND THE FEI Longines seized the opportunity of this celebration evening at the FEI Awards Ceremony to announce its involvement with FEI

Solidarity by giving its support to the “FEI Solidarity Retraining

of Racehorses in partnership with Longines”. The objective is

to educate riders and trainers to use proper techniques in order to

young

athlete also received

perform

an elegant Conquest

Eventing

Ireland’s 16-year-old

Endurance.

jumping rider Harry

thus

following

give

in his older brother

a

making

The to

successful

a long list of his own successes with a total of 20 international wins.

Longines is particularly pleased to participate in the FEI Awards

Ceremony, which was set up in 2009 to acknowledge the

contribution of personalities and organizations in their progress in equestrian sports – both indoor and outdoor. The Longines

Rising Star rewards athletes between the ages of 14 and 21 who demonstrate outstanding sporting talent.

More generally, the winged hourglass brand attaches great importance to encouraging youngsters to practice sports. Therefore, Longines supports young athletes through programs

62 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

a

second

not

be

Swiss

watch

brand is very proud

laureate has had a

in Kaposvár, Hungary. Despite his young age, Harry already has

halt,

given this chance.

Longines Rising Star

year, claiming double gold at the European Pony Championships

is

to

racehorses

otherwise

show

jumping. The 2017

hugely

way

and

where they would

on the international in

a

It

chance in countries

a name for himself stage

of

whose career is at

Allen’s

footsteps,

the

Dressage, Jumping,

winding caliber.

Bertram

in

to

sport

disciplines

fitted with a self-

is

former

as

horses

Classic chronograph

Allen

retrain

racehorses

support

project,

this

which

is perfectly in line with its long-lasting commitment to the equestrian world.

As part of Longines’ Top partnership with the FEI, the Swiss brand

is the Title Partner, Timekeeper and Watch of the three Longines FEI World CupTM Jumping leagues: Western European, North

American and China League, including the Longines FEI World CupTM Jumping Final as well as the newly-named Longines

FEI Nations CupTM Jumping series and Final. In addition to its

involvement in equestrian sports, Longines’ values of Elegance, Performance and Tradition further strengthen the close links

that the brand has been developing with the equestrian world for more than a century.


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

IWC Schaffhausen launches Limited Edition of 25 Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound Timepieces Exclusively for the Middle East at Dubai Watch Week Dubai, 20 November 2017 – IWC Schaffhausen has launched an exclusive Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound watch for collectors in the Middle East. Featuring a deep green dial and limited to just 25 examples, this masterpiece of haute horlogerie includes a tourbillon – the finest expression of watchmaking virtuosity – and will be available from select regional boutiques. THE PORTUGIESER TOURBILLON HAND-WOUND (Ref. IW546307)

strap. Gilt hands sweep the deep emerald dial, which boasts a

was presented during Dubai Watch Week 2017 in partnership

flying minute tourbillon at “9 o’clock”. The in-house mechanical

with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Intended exclusively for watch

98900 movement powering the timepiece features a free-sprung

enthusiasts in the Middle East, the timepiece will be available for

indexless balance – a hallmark of IWC.

order as of 1 December 2017 in regional IWC boutiques.

“The Portugieser line has always encompassed the best attributes

“The Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound is the finest expression

of haute horlogerie and the IWC Schaffhausen brand,” explained

of haute horlogerie. It is fitting that this masterpiece is available

Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, Vice Chairman of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons.

exclusively in the Middle East, where discerning connoisseurs

“It is a privilege for us to exclusively host this rare special edition

and collectors have long patronized the IWC brand,” declared

tourbillon hand-wound masterpiece and offer it to a select

Luc Rochereau, IWC Regional Brand Director Middle East, India

clientele. We look forward to continuing to support IWC’s goal

& Africa.

of bringing beautiful and timeless works of art to the region’s

The limited edition watch, restricted to only 25 pieces, has an

watchmaking enthusiasts,” he added.

elegant 43-mm case complemented by a black alligator leather

64 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Hot News By Fadi Jamil

The most iconic sports car in the world at Dubai International A partnership between Baume & Mercier, Dubai Airports and JCDecaux DUBAI, NOVEMBER 19TH 2017 – As the next evolution of the

Terminal 3, the airport’s busiest concourse, at the entrance of the

partnership with the Carroll Shelby Company initiated in 2015,

duty-free atrium providing premium visibility and exposure to

Baume & Mercier partnered with Dubai Airports and JCDecaux

all departing and transiting passengers. The imposing Shelby®

to bring one of the rarest American sports cars in the world to

Cobra, parked on its purpose-built large podium, is unmissable.

Dubai: the iconic Shelby® Cobra 427*. In the 1960’s, after a great

The watchmaking Maison has also displayed its core collections

career as a driver, Caroll Shelby set his sights on creating cars that

such as Clifton, Promesse, and Classima, alongside the much-

would be faster, lighter, more nimble and able to win against the

awaited edition of the Clifton Club Shelby Cobra®.

world’s best. He took an AC chassis, inserted a Ford V8 engine and

The famous designer of the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe* Peter

re-engineered the car to handle the additional power. A dream

Brock, personally joined with Baume & Mercier and Design

revealed him the name: The Shelby ® Cobra was born. Several

Director Alexandre Peraldi to create a collection that sets a new

versions were built between 1962-1966 from the original 260

standard in style and presence. The result is the Clifton Club

through the 289 and 427 S/C cubic models to the Cobra Daytona

Shelby® Cobra Limited Editions, pinnacle chronographs launched

Coupe.

for the first time within the Clifton collection. Passengers will

The Shelby® Cobra 427 is currently being showcased at Dubai

have the opportunity to see the only exemplar of the Clifton Club

International, the world’s busiest international airport for

Shelby Cobra® limited-edition timepiece left in Dubai, one of

four years running. This activation is located in Concourse B –

just 196 pieces in the world.

66 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


UNDER THE HIGH PATRONAGE OF HSH PRINCE ALBERT II OF MONACO

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Cover Story By Fadi Jamil

72

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Performance and Style:

Montblanc unveils two new timepieces in its TimeWalker Collection Ahead of the upcoming SIHH 2018, Montblanc is introducing two new timepieces in its renowned TimeWalker collection —The TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph and the TimeWalker Rally Timer Chronograph Limited Edition 100—reinterpreting an iconic aesthetic with “panda” and “reverse panda” dials respectively, reinforcing their vintage and racing appeal. INSPIRED BY PERFORMANCE The Montblanc TimeWalker collection symbolizes the spirit of motor racing and harks back to these instruments of glory with a line of new professional watches for the modern performer. The collection finds its inspiration in timepieces from Minerva’s outstanding history. The Minerva Manufacture was known as an exclusive workshop producing high-quality instruments for measuring brief intervals of time with remarkable precision. The renowned “Rally Timer” stopwatch that was created to time motor racing with precision is the perfect example of this heritage. Minerva watches were the reference in the field of horological innovation, with several patents registered over the years in the domain of precision timers, creating a legacy of savoir-faire.

MIDDLE MIDDLEEAST EASTEDITION EDITION II GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I I 73


LEGITIMACY OF THE PAST Founded in 1858 in Villeret in the Saint-Imier Valley, Minerva has been a leading specialist in the fabrication of professional watches. From 1908 onwards, it was already successfully pursuing new technological challenges, such as the production of watches equipped with chronograph functions and highly accurate stopwatches that measured short intervals of time. The Manufacture developed stopwatches that could measure 1/5th of a second as early as 1911, rapidly increasing to 1/10th of a second. In this innovative spirit, in 1916, the Minerva Manufacture was one of the first to develop a high-frequency movement that could measure the 1/100th of a second, a development that was improved in 1936, putting Minerva on the map as the specialist of professional watches and stopwatches. The TimeWalker collection combines these legendary timing instruments of the past with the spirit of motor racing, encapsulating the Minerva heritage, superb technology, masculine energy, winning performance and the style of the glory days of racing. Evocative, vintage-themed and contemporary, this collection is designed for modern performers who like to express their achievements, ambitions, masculinity, style and personality in their choice of wristwatch. Perfect for both business and leisure, the Montblanc TimeWalker timepieces command respect and admiration and underline the confidence of those who wear them.

74

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


MONTBLANC TIMEWALKER MANUFACTURE CHRONOGRAPH Reinterpreting historical emblematic chronographs, the Mont-

The timepiece is powered by the Montblanc Manufacture chro-

blanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph combines an

nograph calibre MB 25.10 featuring traditional finishing such

iconic tri-counter “panda” dial with a brand-new Manufacture

as “Côtes de Genève”, circular graining, blue screws and a new

automatic chronograph.

monobloc oscillating weight made of black rhodium-plated

Each element of the design of the timepiece is directly rooted

tungsten and designed in the shape of a steering wheel. The

in the world of racing with details that recall the golden age of

movement is equipped with a traditional column wheel, a hori-

motor racing. The dial, with its black tri-counters on a white

zontal coupling as well as a stop-second mechanism, allowing

background is what has become commonly known as a “panda”

the precise setting of the time.

design. The bold contrast between the three-dimensional black

The Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph indi-

counters and the white dial are reminiscent of the dashboards

cates the hours, minutes, small seconds and date, as well as the

of classic racing cars and are some of the most appealing and

chronograph’s indications with a central hand and counters at

recognizable dial designs. Since its inception in the 1960s and

3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, reminiscent of traditional 3-6-9 counter

70s, the “panda” dial has become an icon, marking the history

chronograph positions.

of watchmaking. It has always been highly appreciated for both

Perfectly matching the “panda” dial, the timepiece features

its unique aesthetic and great readability.

either a stainless steel metal bracelet or a new vintage brown

The dial also has a flange with a 5-minute track coated with

Sfumato aged calf leather strap with perforated holes. The

SuperLumiNova® for high visibility day and night. Other fea-

brown Sfumato strap has been hand-crafted at the Montblanc

tures include rhodium-plated, dauphine-shaped hour and min-

Pelletteria in Florence and comes fitted with the Maison’s tri-

ute hands and a red chronograph second hand inspired by the

ple folding clasp, providing excellent flexibility and maximum

Minerva arrow, a nod to Minerva’s legacy and heritage.

comfort.

Performance and style continue onto the design of the 43 mm,

The TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph is water resistant

stainless steel case, which has been satin-finished for an auto-

to 100 metres, and has been rigorously tested by the Montblanc

motive look and better resistance to scratches. The TimeWalker

Laboratory Test 500. This evaluation simulates real-life

Manufacture Chronograph is equipped with a new fixed black

wear for over 500 hours and tests the finished

bezel engraved with a tachymeter scale that is made of shiny

and assembled watch, providing reli-

high-tech black ceramic for utmost robustness, durability and

ability and performance.

performance. Ceramic has impressive properties such as a highresistance to scratches, non-oxidization, a unique shiny surface, and a defence against all common chemical agents. The horns, with their architectural and carved flanks, have been semi-skeletonized like the air inlets of a car’s body, and the black DLC crown has been knurled like vintage car radiator caps for better gripping. In the spirit of racing, the case back has been fitted with a smoked glass opening, reminiscent of the glass windows that cover powerful V12 engines.

Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph Ident. 118488 MOVEMENT: Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB 25.10 DIMENSIONS: Diameter 30.15 mm; height 7.90 mm DISPLAYS: Hours and minutes from the centre, small seconds at 6 o’clock, Tachymeter scale on the bezel, Chronograph’s elapsed-second hand from the dial’s centre, 30-elapsed minute and 12-elapsed hour counters at 3 and 9 o’clock CASE: Stainless steel, satin-finished case, high-tech black fixed ceramic bezel with silvery-white engraved tachymeter scale CRYSTAL: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating BACK: Stainless steel with inset pane of smoked sapphire crystal Water-resistance: 10 bar (100 m) DIAL: “Panda” dial with white background and black counters, rhodium-plated Arabic figures and indexes coated with Super-LumiNova®, rhodium-plated luminescent dauphine hour-hand and minute-hand, red baton chronograph second hand with Minerva arrow at the extremity. Black flange with markers framed in grey or red and coated with Super-LumiNova® indicating the five-minute marks WRISTBAND: Perforated brown Sfumato aged calf leather strap crafted by the Montblanc Pelletteria in Florence, Italy with stainless steel triple folding clasp Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500 (* Super-LumiNova® is not a trademark owned by Montblanc)

MIDDLE MIDDLEEAST EASTEDITION EDITION II GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I I 75


Montblanc TimeWalker Rally Timer Chronograph Limited Edition 100 Ident. 118487 MOVEMENT: Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M16.29 DIMENSIONS: Diameter 38.4 mm; height 6.3 mm DISPLAYS: Hours and minutes from the centre Small seconds at 6 o’clock, Chronograph’s elapsed second hand from the dial’s centre 30-elapsed minute counter at 12 o’clock Tachymeter scale CASE: Titanium, satin and knurled finishing, black DLC on the middle piece, Turning case from 0 to 180 degrees (or from 3 to 9 o’clock) CRYSTAL: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire with antireflective coating BACK: Titanium with inset pane of sapphire crystal WATER-RESISTANCE: 3 bar (30 m) DIAL: “Reverse panda” with black background and white counters, Arabic figures and SuperLuminova® indexes, black rhodium-plated luminescent dauphine hour-hand and minute-hand, rhodium-plated sword second hand and 30-elapsed minute hand WRISTBAND: Brown Sfumato aged calf leather crafted by the Montblanc Pelletteria in Florence, Italy LIMITED EDITION: 100 Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500 (* SuperLuminova® is not a trademark owned by Montblanc)

MONTBLANC TIMEWALKER RALLY TIMER CHRONOGRAPH LIMITED EDITION 100 Inspired by the famous Minerva Rally Timer stopwatch pro-

in the shape of a car grill that reveals the beauty of the hand-

duced by Minerva in the 1960s and directly rooted in the spirit

finished Manufacture manually-wound monopusher chrono-

of racing, the Montblanc TimeWalker Rally Timer Chronograph

graph calibre MB M16.29.

Limited Edition 100 combines a unique aesthetic with a “reverse

The racing codes also carry over onto the two-counter “reverse

panda” dial and the renowned hand-crafted Manufacture mon-

panda” dial with highly legible hands, indexes and chrono-

opusher chronograph calibre MB M16.29. This innovative time-

graph functions.

piece offers different ways to appreciate the time with the pos-

The chronograph’s 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock is vertically

sibility of transforming the wristwatch into a pocket watch or

aligned with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, reminiscent of

a dashboard clock.

the original Minerva Rally Timer. In the centre, the red chrono-

The wristwatch, with its brand-new brown Sfumato aged

graph second hand runs along a tachymeter scale, which can be

leather calf strap, can be easily converted into a pocket watch

used to calculate speeds over fixed distances.

by simply folding the strap attachments under the case. The

The timepiece is powered by the Manufacture manually wound

pocket watch can then be either placed on a table, thanks to

monopusher chronograph calibre MB M16.29 that features

two arms below the case, used as a stopwatch with the strap as

a column wheel, horizontal coupling and a power reserve of

a handle for utmost security, or clipped into a metal plate cov-

50 hours. The calibre takes its inspiration from the original

ered with leather that attaches to a car’s dashboard, offering a

Minerva calibre 17.29 developed in the 1930s, used for both

highly functional and extremely legible timepiece when behind

pocket watches and wristwatches. This modern-day version is

the wheel.

recognisable thanks to its beautiful hand-crafted finishings—

The 50 mm case is crafted out of grade-two titanium and has

Côtes de Genève stripes, inner angles, circular graining and

been satin-finished and the middle section of the case has also

bevelling—as well as its fine details such as the iconic Minerva

been knurled and coated with black DLC. The case can be turned

arrow, a chronograph bridge shaped in the form of a “V”, and a

from 0 to 180 degrees (or from 3 to 9 o’clock) in both directions

large screwed balance that has a traditional frequency of 18,000

to allow perfect readability while driving.

semi-oscillations per hour. For utmost reliability and performance, the timepiece is water-

76

Titanium is also the material of choice for the vintage-inspired

resistant to 30 metres and has been rigorously tested by the

knurled crown and the versatile strap attachments. Turn the

Montblanc Laboratory Test 500, simulating intense real-life

timepiece over, and the details continue with an open caseback

wear for over 500 hours.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


28th SALON I N T E R N AT I O N A L DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE OPEN TO THE PUBLIC FRIDAY 19 JANUARY Registration at sihh.org

GENEVA, FROM 15 TO 19 JANUARY 2018 A. LANGE & SÖHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | CARTIER GIRARD-PERREGAUX | GREUBEL FORSEY | HERMÈS | IWC | JAEGER-LECOULTRE MONTBLANC | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PIAGET | RICHARD MILLE ROGER DUBUIS | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS ARMIN STROM | CHRISTOPHE CLARET | DEWITT ÉLÉGANTE BY F.P.JOURNE | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GRÖNEFELD | H. MOSER & CIE HAUTLENCE | HYT | KARI VOUTILAINEN | LAURENT FERRIER | MB&F | RESSENCE ROMAIN GAUTHIER | RJ-ROMAIN JEROME | SPEAKE-MARIN | URWERK


Manufacture Visit By Fadi Jamil

OFFICINE PANERAI MANIFATTURA DI ALTA OROLOGERIA Officine Panerai has its manufacturing headquarters at the heart of the world of fine watchmaking: the place where incomparable italian design and swiss technological excellence merge together to create the iconic timepieces which are now part of history. The opening of the Officine Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel has

to the inspiration of the original examples, blends perfectly with

definitively marked the arrival of the historic brand in the Olympus

Swiss watchmaking expertise, so that Panerai’s models are icons of

of luxury sports watches. A new Manufacture of over 10,000 square

international high quality sports watchmaking.

metres, in the heart of the region where for centuries the most

Since 2005, the year in which the first Manufacture movements made

remarkable watch skills in the world have been located, now brings

in-house were presented to the public, Officine Panerai has in just

together for the first time under the same roof all the skills and

a few years created a complete range of mechanical calibres, hand-

resources for the development and production of Panerai watches

wound and automatic, to bring life to their creations. The collection

and movements, made completely in-house.

of Panerai movements consists of solid, reliable mechanical calibres,

The most innovative technologies in the field, together with the

of exemplary simplicity or fitted with the most sophisticated

excellent craftsmanship which has made Switzerland the world’s

complications, with functions and characteristics consistent with

centre of high quality watchmaking, continue to perpetuate the

Panerai’s history and identity, combined with avant-garde solutions

legend of the Panerai watches which were originally created in

renewing the creative vocation which is part of the history of the

the 1930s and 1940s for the commandos of the Italian Navy. The

brand.

original Italian design of the watches, pure, minimalist and faithful

78

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


AN INTEGRATED MANUFACTURE The panerai identity is also reflected in the design of the manufacture, a building in which the rational arrangement of the spaces, the attention to function and the use of the most advanced technologies create the ideal conditions to enable panerai’s master watchmakers to exercise their extraordinary technical expertise and craftsmanship.

The Panerai Manufacture occupies a building of some 10,000 square metres completed in early 2014, built on hills overlooking the lake, a few minutes from Neuchâtel in the direction of La-Chaux-de-Fonds. Very modern in design, the building was constructed and is run following standards of complete ecocompatibility and the rational use of resources. It houses all the functions and trades involved in making watches – over 70 altogether – in large, open areas, flooded with light by the wide windows which run round the whole building. Overall, its highly functional ergonomic design optimises every stage of production. The architecture respects the philosophy governing the Manufacture: master watchmakers and the other skilled craftsmen involved in the various operations are encouraged to be pro-active, making their own contributions to an ongoing discussion of ideas, thereby enhancing the creative experience and ensuring synergy and efficiency in the manufacturing processes and in communication. At the moment, the number of watchmakers and other workers employed in the Panerai Manufacture is about 250. In addition there are others who are involved in making components outside the Manufacture, highly specialised parts which are usually made on special production lines exclusively devoted to Panerai.

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THE LABORATORIO DI IDEE The brilliance of the florentine family which founded the first watchmaking workshop in the Tuscan city in 1860 is the same as that which, today as always, inspires the panerai manufacture’s research and development department, a “workshop of ideas” in which innovation is the means of ensuring loyalty to the history of the brand. Since its debut on the international market, Panerai has chosen

where Panerai’s achievements are quite remarkable in the world

the phrase “Laboratorio di Idee” to indicate its commitment to the

of high quality watchmaking. In the first ten years of its activity,

continuous search for innovative technical solutions which will

the Panerai Manufacture has presented a complete range of original

raise the standards and performance of its watches ever higher. The

mechanical movements of the highest quality, accurate, reliable and

word “laboratorio”, Latin in origin, evokes the resourcefulness of

exceptionally tough; they have a functional, minimalist design with

the Panerai family, natives of Florence who not only founded the

a sports character, but they also stand out for their sophisticated

first watch workshop in the city in 1860, but who also transformed

finish and the high quality of their workmanship. Every Panerai

a family activity into a forwardlooking company capable of creating

calibre, from those with the basic functions to those with the most

innovations and revolutionary products which have become classics

sophisticated complications, has a design and structure which

in the history of watchmaking.

make it immediately recognisable. Some characteristics of the

Today, “Laboratorio di Idee” denotes the Research and Development

movement are shared by all the calibres, both in the technical field

department of the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, which is

(for example, the long power reserve of the brand which derives from

devoted to experimentation and implementing highly innovative

vintage Panerai examples) and in the aesthetic field (for example,

ideas and designs as well as, more generally, developing new products

wide, brushed-finish bridges with chamfered edges which cover

from the original idea, including their commercial exploitation

the majority of the wheelwork, giving the movement a technical

and industrial production. The Laboratorio di Idee, consisting

appearance and making the structure exceptionally stable).

of over 50 highly specialist workers, works very closely with the

In general, Officine Panerai’s identity and history are also reflected

design department, which is however based in Italy where it draws

in the development philosophy of the movements made in the

inspiration from the historic archives of the brand, thus ensuring

Manufacture: movements in which simplicity – intrinsic to even

that every new creation is consistent with the unmistakable Panerai

the most sophisticated complications – is the result of sophisticated

identity.

research, design being always strictly linked to function and the

The activities of research and design cover all areas but they

quality of execution being an absolute guarantee of reliability.

are concentrated particularly on experimentation with high

An extremely important operation which takes place in the

performance materials which are durable and aesthetically

Laboratorio di Idee, with its highly specialised staff and machinery,

pleasing, and of course on the creation of in-house movements,

is the creation of prototype movements

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and watches. Carrying out this stage internally not only reduces the time needed to develop new products but it also ensures that they remain confidential, an important consideration in that up to four years may be needed before a new movement has been completely developed and tested. Within the Laboratorio di Idee, Panerai watches and movements go through the homologation stage: an initial series of rigorous tests before going into production, in order to ensure the strength and perfect operation of the products under more extreme conditions than those normally encountered. Further checks on quality are systematically made at every stage of the production and assembly of the materials used, of the individual components and of the finished watch, so as to be certain that the highest standards of quality are met. The tests which are carried out at this stage are mostly concerned with resistance to all possible external influences: the drop test (dropping the watch onto a hard surface from a height of one metre) to evaluate resistance to violent blows; thermal shock tests to check the robustness of the components in relation to unexpected temperature variations; the hot-wet test to determine the reliability of the watch in conditions of high humidity and heat; corrosion tests in saline mist to test resistance to corrosion; and testing with synthetic sweat. The strength and robustness of the movement are also ensured by testing in which special machines subject the watches to various extremely high dynamic and acceleration stresses (up to 5000 g).

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THE ASSEMBLY WORKSHOP In assembling panerai watches, absolute precision and a high degree of specialisation are required. The extreme example of this is to be found in the atelier de haute horlogerie, the department of the manufacture where the most highly skilled master watchmakers bring the most sophisticated, prestigious in-house calibres to life.

Having passed all the quality tests, the components, including

Horlogerie, that is, the department of the Panerai Manufacture

those from specialist suppliers, are assembled by watch technicians.

in which movements are created with the most impressive,

The movements they create are then put in cases to complete the

sophisticated complications.

watches.

It is in this workshop that movements are assembled and adjusted

In this stage, hand work plays a fundamental part, but in the Panerai

by hand, calibres such as the P.2005 with the characteristic

Manufacture the indispensable human experience and expertise are

tourbillon regulator patented by Panerai, the P.2006 split-seconds

supported by precision technologies which optimise efficiency and

chronograph, the innovative P.9100/R chronograph movement with

quality control, ensuring perfectly organised teamwork along the

countdown to indicate the starting time of a race and the P.2000/G

orderly assembly lines. To minimize the risk of contamination by

calibre, in which each individual example is constructed according

dust or other external agents, the watchmakers work in a clinically

to the geographical coordinates supplied by the person acquiring the

clean environment. First the movements are assembled and these

watch, so that it will always show the times of sunrise and sunset,

then proceed to the casing-up stage, which includes the assembly of

the star map and the equation of time relating to a particular city.

the dials and hands, mounting the movement in the case with all

The adjustments consist of several delicate operations of the greatest

the necessary gaskets, and, finally, attaching the strap.

importance, including centring and levelling the balance spring,

The stage of assembling and adjusting the movements is

accurately setting up the escapement, putting the balance wheel in

fundamentally important in ensuring the maximum accuracy of

beat and adjusting the lever. All these operations require absolute

the watch. It is performed by hand and, in the case of the more

precision to ensure that the movement functions with the maximum

complicated calibres, it requires the remarkable skills and abilities

consistency over a long period of time and within margins of error

of Master Watchmaker operating entirely in the Atelier de Haute

that are among the most stringent in the sector.

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QUALITY CONTROL The technical characteristics of panerai watches, historically designed for use under the most extreme conditions, are continuously subjected to rigorous quality control and testing in order to guarantee even higher standards than those required by the regulations of the sector. The strict quality control which started with tests carried out in

air pressure, low water pressure for an extended time, and high

the homologation workshop continues during production and

pressure. Panerai’s strict testing standards also include the “water

transversely at every successive stage. The technical and aesthetic

drop” test, which is on the face of it simpler than tests carried out

characteristics of the individual components and of the watch as

using sophisticated machinery but is in fact very revealing: this is

it is assembled are constantly monitored, to ensure the maximum

carried out by heating the case and placing a drop of cold water or

correspondence to the highest standards of quality, and in the

a cold external element on the surface of the crystal which protects

assembly workshop fundamental tests relating to the correct

the dial. This checks that areas of moisture do not form inside the

operation of the watch are carried out. All in all, all the inspections

case itself.

undertaken are designed to ensure the greatest reliability

The consistent running of the movement is ensured by a series

and durability of every Panerai watch, both under standard

of checks carried out internally (CTMP: Contrôle Technique des

environmental conditions and when interacting with external

Montres Panerai), following standards of overall excellence which

agents which may be damaging, such as shocks, wear, extreme

Panerai imposes on itself above the standards of the industry, and

temperatures, acids, UV radiation and magnetic fields.

through external certification (the Chronofiable® test). The series

A timepiece which historically was created for use by professional

of tests carried out is equivalent to wearing the watch on the user’s

divers must of course be completely resistant to water penetration

wrist for six months. Also, all watches are tested to ensure accurate

and, to pass the tests, all Panerai watches must have a water-

operation in the presence of magnetic fields of medium intensity

resistance more than 25% higher than the officially declared limits,

(4,800 A/m), or of very high intensity (40,000 A/m) in the case of the

from a minimum of 3 bar to a maximum of 250 bar (equivalent

models with an inner case made of soft iron, such as the Luminor

to a depth of about 2,500 metres) in the case of the most extreme

Submersible 1950 Amagnetic.

Submersible models. These tests simulate various situations:

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 83


ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY The new officine panerai manufacture is an exceptional example of ecosustainability: using the most modern technologies, every activity – from the management of its spaces to the use of resources – is subjected to meticulous attention so that they respect the environment and reduce waste to a minimum. The new Panerai manufacturing complex at Neuchâtel is unmatched

operation of the ventilating system is reduced during the night, and

in terms of environmental sustainability. Complying with the highest

special curtains are operated automatically – based on the analysis

international standards, the new structure has been designed so as

of the solar radiation which is carried out four times a day – to keep

to reduce carbon dioxide emissions to zero, and not only that; the

the interior temperature stable and comfortable.

building is also equipped with the most modern devices for energy

Great attention has also been paid to the sustainability of the

saving and the recovery and reuse of waste materials. An example is

lighting system, which uses energy-saving light bulbs and LED

the attention paid to water resources. Rainwater is saved in a tank of

technology which, through special sensors, switch off after 30

50,000 litres and then reused for services and for irrigating the green

minutes of inactivity within the area they illuminate. Last but not

areas outside, which are planted with hundreds of trees. Hot water,

least is the project encouraging employees to use environmentally

the waste liquid from machine cooling systems, is used to produce

sustainable transport: they receive an economic benefit if they travel

the energy needed to heat the building. Waste water arrives at the

to the site by public transport.

waste disposal system only after it has been completely cleansed

The quality of Officine Panerai’s commitment to the environment

of detergents, soaps and fine dust. Finally, water provides certified

means that the company exceeds the requirements of any

100% green hydro-electric power which is used by the Manufacture

international regulatory organisation and this has been confirmed

for all its activities.

by the important international certifications obtained, including

For the air conditioning and the ventilation of the whole complex,

its recent admission to the Responsible Jewellery Council, the

36 low-enthalpy geothermal probes have been installed: these use

organisation which promotes ethical behaviour and sustainability

the constant heat from underground to provide a climate-controlled

in the context of the production and sale of watches and jewellery.

environment 365 days a year. In addition, to prevent waste, the

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Interview By Brice Lechevalier

86 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Since taking over the brand last summer, which are the first changes you have made ? Certain changes were dictated by circumstances : the departure of the former CEO Patrick Hoffmann led to that of the longstanding marketing director. For this extremely important role, I decided to enlist Françoise Bezzola, whose international experience in the realm of communication for major brands is very precious to Ulysse Nardin – and notably her expertise in packaging media content for the extremely demanding US market. Our storytelling is currently under-exploited and she will need to raise the brand’s profile by choosing the right communication channels. Given my personal experience with Apple, Françoise and I speak the same language, which prob-

Patrick Pruniaux

CEO Ulysse Nardin

“Visitors to the SIHH will be astonished by the brand’s new angle”

ably helps move things ahead faster. Moreover, we have worked a good deal on products – even if they were very good to start with – simply by means of a few

adjustments. As far as sales are concerned, we will need to make a few tweaks to avoid certain geographical dependencies, but we have excellent distribution partners and Ulysse Nardin will remain a reliable brand for retailers. We are undertaking an effective realignment in terms of products, marketing and sales, and I am extremely confident with regard to 2018. How can a GPHG prize help a watch such as Ulysse Nardin ? Winning the Sports Watch Prize enables us to communicate about Ulysse Nardin’s distinctive expertise – in this instance particularly related to our own movement and our manufacturing facility – which is also closely bound up with the realm of sports and the maritime world. Everything is extremely consistent and it was well worth taking up the challenge. Comments on the Marine Regatta confirm its positioning as an incredibly accessible watch despite its complexity. This further reinforces the partnership we had with Artemis Racing, the Swedish challenger in the 35th America’s Cup. Do you feel this partnership was positive and might it be reiterated in 2021 for the next America’s Cup to be held in Auckland ? We are very pleased with this partnership, especially since the owner and the entire Artemis team have values that are very close to ours. They are real brand enthusiasts and enjoy wearing our watches, as we observed upon meeting them when we arrived. It’s an authentic partnership in which we don’t speak of money, but instead of associating with a project. We would thus be prepared to support them again if they decide to compete in New Zealand.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 87


Which do you see as Ulysse Nardin’s main strengths ? The fundamentals are excellent  : an excellent manufacturing plant and a demonstrable capacity for constant innovation and R&D. I will therefore naturally continue fostering the teams’ fierce determination to innovative, even though we sometimes innovate so fast that we struggle to keep pace in terms of communication ! I must ensure that innovations introduced on certain outstanding models are picked up on more widely selling products. The grinder is an excellent example : the story is there, but we have to talk about it far more. Among the existing collections, which best represent the brand while harboring significant development potential ? I can see good potential for the Marine collection in general, and particularly for the Torpilleur. I think the Freak is a mono-product line but is intended for a broader audience. Moreover, as far as Grand Complication

“The Ulysse Nardin fundamentals are excellent”

models are concerned and judging by collectors’ reactions, I think we still have a lot of potential there as well.

Will the SIHH 2018* be an opportunity to set a new course for Ulysse Nardin ? We will be seeing an evolution in the process that began this year and has been well received by clients, with a stronger emphasis on our image and the consistency of our discourse. Ours is a humble brand, so we are not going to make wild promises, but I think the public will be astonished by the modern angle and the new approach we will be revealing. After ten years spent with TAG Heuer, you set off to work on the Apple Watch : what do you feel you have learned from this experience ? The Apple experience in general instils a different vision. This is a brand that serves as inspiration for virtually every industry due to its consumer-oriented approach, its product innovation, its selfconfidence as a brand, its occasional refusal to compromise on its management or its designs, as well as its manner of communicating. All this reinforced what I already believed, as well as teaching me a great deal. Its high level of sophis­tication inspired me, as did its sheer speed of product renewal, driving me to think about what is sometimes lacking in the watch industry : we tend not to focus enough on consumer expectations, notably from a practical point of view. I am talking about things as straightforward as wearer comfort and legibility. And its communication s­ trategy is definitely an example. *more on this in the SIHH dossier on worldtempus.com

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MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 89


Story By Victoria Townsend

On the road to discover

BOVET 1822

C

onnoisseur and collector of vintage timepieces from an early age,

Pascal Raffy is a man with vision. When he acquired the BOVET watch brand in 2001 he was determined to renew its glory of the past.

Founded in 1822 by Edouard Bovet and his family, the brand was renowned

as far away as China for its exceptional engraved and hand-painted pocket watches often inlaid with pearls.

In 2006 Raffy purchased the DIMIER

Manufacture of Haute Horlogerie in Tramelan to ensure controlled production

of Bovet timepieces, and just several months later the 14th century Château de Môtiers.

Overlooking the villages of Fleurier and Môtiers, the castle was

previously owned by the Bovet family and today, magnificently restored, plays an active role in the company officially renamed BOVET 1822.

Visiting the regions of Neuchâtel and Geneva as a guest of the Dubai-based Siddiqi watch retail company and its extraordinary “On the Road to Dubai Watch Week Tour” organized in June in Switzerland to share knowledge of haute horlogerie, we admire the postcard-perfect countryside during our 50’

ride from Neuchâtel to the DIMIER Manufacture in Tramelan. The modern structure contrasts with the quaint mountain villages and green ski slopes

passed along the way. Inside, we are told that the site assembles more than 40 different skills performed by more than 70 top-level craftspeople, producing everything from the smallest components of movements and cases to

their assembly. A recently integrated dial-making unit further facilitates the

watchmaking process by “keeping everything under the same roof”. Quality control is exercised at every step along the way.

Before starting the tour, we ask how a new watch model comes into existence. “It all starts with a brief from Mr. Raffy” our guide/watchmaker explains.

90 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


“For example, he could say: ‘For 2020 I need a perpetual calendar with a tourbillon escapement’, followed by key words such as ‘readability, easy to use’, etc. We don’t think first about the technical aspects of a watch, so as to not

close any doors. Once we find the creative requirements, we look for the

technical solutions, which often leads to patents, such as the 6 patents for our 22-day power reserve on the Braveheart with its conical winding system,

tridimensional toothing and multiple gearing. The process from Initial draw-

ings and computerized 3D plans to prototypes can take 2 to 3 years, sometimes more, before we actually begin the manufacture of a new timepiece.”

During our tour of the Manufacture, we learn that Bovet is one of the rare

watch companies to make its own hairsprings, and even supplies other watch

brands with hairsprings and balance wheels too. We are shown that a hair-

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 91


spring measures on average 10 to 12 centimetres in length, with

constructed, starting with the tourbillon cage.

ment.

are told that “it should be coming soon”.

a margin of 30 to 40% depending upon the watch and its moveElsewhere, we learn that mainplates and bridges each require

20 to 25 minutes of tooling, that teeth cutting is made tooth by tooth, even on a 0.4 mm pinion, that the burnishing of pivots and pinions helps to gain efficiency in the going train for an

increase of power reserve. Passing by the making of the central hand of the Récital 20 Astérium® tourbillon we note that the hands on Bovet watches can be personalized, with initials for example, demonstrating Bovet’s excellent attention to service.

At the decoration unit where perlage and Côtes de Genève are engraved, our guide informs us that 90% of the mainplates and

bridges at Bovet are engraved by hand, and that 22 hours are

necessary to engrave one baseplate. Only 2 craftspeople master the delicate technique of engraving a tourbillon bridge, a process that can take from 1 to 2 days.

Chamfering, anglage, polishing… after multiple operations where jewels and rubies are set to avoid friction, oiling and rins-

ing is complete, and all the components have been controlled twice during each operation, the movements and cases are ready to be assembled. During our visit, we are fortunate enough to see the 10-day Virtuoso VIII tourbillon big date movement being

92 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

The only move-

ment not yet made in-house by Bovet is the chronograph, but we The second part of our visit takes us to the breathtaking Château de Môtiers that has been restored with splendour. It is here that

we find a vast reception area for VIP guests including a private

dining room that we had the pleasure to discover and appreciate, and here that Pascal Raffy keeps his personal collection of

antique Bovet timepieces. Administration, packing and shipping are also handled here, where the final assembly of the timepieces

is made by Master Watchmakers who receive each case with its movement and bracelet or strap from the DIMIER manufacture in a “kit”. Approximately 200 to 250 such kits are delivered each month to be encased and completed.

Upon reception, the first step is to reinspect and re-control all elements before moving on to special outer case engraving that includes the “bris de verre” technique --a difficult procedure that

leaves precious metal scintillating as if set with diamonds, and

that can be attempted only after three months of initial training. It takes one week to decorate one case.

A final control is

made before each timepiece is packed for shipping, with every Bovet timepiece carrying a 5-year guarantee.

SAV also takes place here, with about 20 to 30 pieces received


And was there a certain complication he would advise a newcomer to start with, or something more accessible to join the Bovet family?

“From 19Thirty, our steel timepiece with a 7-day power reserve movement made in-house with its open, screwed case back, one

barrel for 7 days, 67 turns of crown to wind 7 days, to a Braveheart® -- a 22-day power reserve tourbillon with the Amadeo system, the most unique timepiece you can find, with such a

clear identity, and then on to the (Récital 20) Astérium® with its 12 complications and its 771 components, please tell me if you

do not discover what true watchmaking art, and not industrial

Haute Horlogerie, must mean in this world. We extend a warm welcome to people who like detail with good taste, substance, sustainability, and true patrimony related to a timepiece that you can put on your wrist without needing 5 watchmakers to tune it every day. This is all about Bovet.”

“Voilà!” he concluded. “Passion and mutual respect, always.”

every month. What could be the reasons for after-sales service? Normally it is the control that is recommended every 5 years,

or it could be the Amadeo system that has been jerked or forced when transforming the wristwatch into a pocket watch or table clock.

Before leaving, we asked Monsieur Raffy what advice he would

give to a watch enthusiast considering the purchase of his first Bovet timepiece. Here was his reply:

“If you are, in this globalized world, not a follower of globalization but an opinion maker, if you have hardly anything more to prove in your life, then enter into the world where a Bovet timepiece is not a ‘social’ code of recognition but an ‘education’

code of recognition. And you will discover a House that respects

its patrimony and offers you substance and density like you will

not find anywhere else, where 2,000 timepieces are handcrafted every year with passion and your respect.

You will discover

every day something new in your Bovet timepiece, and consider the sustainability of this House that was founded nearly 2 centuries ago.

Imagine that when you take your loupe and travel

in the movement, when you discover every single component:

the dial, the hands, the appliques, and turn your timepiece around, you will be the most happy human being and consider that your investment is well worth what you paid.”

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 93


The selection AUTOMOBILE By Marie Le Berre

As partners of automobile manufacturers, events or racing teams, watch brands outdo each other in seeking imaginative ways of bringing to the wrist the spirit of major competitions and the style of legendary cars. The story of watchmaking and cars is entirely natural, long-running and apparently neverending.

GRAHAM

BAUME & MERCIER

BELL & ROSS

BULGARI

AUT MOB Silverstone RS GMT

Clifton Club Shelby Cobra

Equipped with a 24-hour dual-time display appearing on the graduated ceramic bezel, this limited series is also the official watch of the highly regarded and typically Swiss Gurnigel hill-climb road race !

The latest creation from BAUME & MERCIER and Caroll Shelby evokes the SHELBY COBRA DAYTONA COUPÉ.

This titanium and steel chronograph is making a noteworthy first incursion into the Clifton collection.

94 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

BR126 Renault Sport 40th Anniversary

Octo Maserati GranSport

To celebrate the 40th anniversary of its partner Renault Sport’s first appearance in the world of Formula 1 motor racing, BELL & ROSS has developed a model inspired by the 1977 single-seater R.S. 01, a steel chronograph with a resolutely vintage style.

The OCTO MASERATI 2017 models display jumping hours and retrograde minutes with all the clarity of a dashboard. For fans of the super-sporty brand with the trident emblem : a black DLC-treated GranSport model.


SINGER REIMAGINED

MONTBLANC

BULGARI

EBERHARD & CO.

TOBILE Singer Track 1 The young watch brand named SINGER REIMAGINED, a subsidiary of Singer Vehicle Design, chose the Monterey Car Week 2017 for the first presentation in the United States of its revolutionary TRACK 1 chronograph.

Time Walker Chronograph 117051

Octo Maserati GranLusso

At the Festival of Speed de Goodwood 2017, of which it has become official timekeeper, MONTBLANC presented a chic new pink gold model : the TIME WALKER

Parternsing Maserati since 2012, BULGARI has unveiled the latest fruits of their cooperation at the 2017 Frankfurt Motor Show. In this GranLusso version, the OCTO MASERATI appears clothed in pink gold.

CHRONOGRAPH AUTOMATIC.

Chrono 4 130 Timekeeper and Official Partner of the Gran Premio Nuvolari, EBERHARD & CO seized the opportunity of the opening cocktail to present its latest creations, notably including the CHRONO4 130 introduced to mark its 130th anniversary.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 95


The Selection SPORT

By Brice Lechevalier

Exertion and relaxation are not incompatible for anyone acquiring a fine sports watch at a reasonable price, whether from a well-known name or an insider’s brand for avant-gardists.

PANERAI

VALPIN

RAYMOND WEIL

ANONIMO

SPORT Luminor Due 3 Days Titanio Dear as ever to the hearts of classical sailing enthusiasts, PANERAI hones its style with this model in ocean-colored titanium featuring a slimmer case and a narrower 42mm diameter.

LR03

Freelancer

Nautilo GC32

Created by two friends who are passionate about watchmaking, this new Swiss brand focuses on 50-piece limited series with an original design, such as this self-winding titanium model with retrograde date and dual-time display.

This self-winding chronograph water-resistant to 100 meters with its screw-lock crown flaunts a sophisticated design extending to every detail of the dial and bezel and lending a distinctly elegant touch to its sports-minded wearer.

Strongly involved in the field of cutting-edge racing, ANONIMO is official sponsor of the GC32 Racing Tour, the high-tech catamaran circuit, for which it has created this limited series inspired by its famous Nautilo diver’s watch.

96 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


The Selection ENAMEL

By Marie LeBerrre

A traditional art applied to watchmaking since the 17th century, enamel endows dials with exceptional and almost inalterable radiance, whether monochrome or decorated using various techniques, notably including miniature painting. The term “Grand Feu” refers to successive firings at very high temperatures of around 800°C.

BREGUET

BOVET

JAQUET DROZ URBAN JÜRGENSEN

Classique 7147BB/29/9WU

Château de Môtiers 40

Grande Seconde Moon

This supremely pure gold CLASSIQUE 7147 model features a Grand Feu enamel dial enlivened by typically BREGUET hands and numerals, along with a touch of originality with the unusual 5 o’clock position of the small seconds.

A fervent exponent of the decorative arts in watchmaking, BOVET innovates by combining miniature painting with luminescence. The butterfly adorning the CHÂTEAU DE MÔTIERS 40 is thus perfectly visible both night and day !

This interpretation of the GRANDE SECONDE model supremely emblematic of JAQUET DROZ is graced with a delightful “astronomical” high-precision moon-phase display. The pink gold version features an ivory-toned Grand Feu enamel dial.

Montre Email Observatoire Platine At URBAN JÜRGENSEN, where “the past is always present”, the MONTRE EMAIL OBSERVATOIRE displays its chronometer-certified performance on a Grand Feu enamel dial also indicating the power reserve.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 97


The BIVOUAC 9000 The ultimate instrument for all altitudes


Interview By Victoria Townsend

100 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Exclusive Interview with Bell & Ross CEO

Carlos A. Rosillo Co-founded in 1994 by Carlos A. Rosillo and Bruno Belamich, Bell & Ross has followed a path of creating timepieces inspired by aviation and the military with four key words: readability, precision, reliability and functionality. After establishing itself in a relatively short time “in the air and in the sea” with professional pilot and diver watches, the Paris-based watch brand with Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland (since 2002) is now on its way to the conquest of terra firma. BR-X1 RS17 Tourbillon Chronograph

B

ell & Ross CEO Carlos A. Ros-

Bruno Belamich also ensures a pos-

illo is a happy man. Smil-

itive outlook geared for the future.

ing last March at Basel-

Known until now for its aircraft

world where he granted us some

cockpit-inspired cases and dials,

private time, he announced that

and for its professional diver

“Basel this year is one of our best

watches including the oil-filled

ever!

HYDROMAX® water-resistant to

With products ranging from

a vintage look and prices of EUR1000

an amazing 11,100 meters, a part-

to 5000, to more exceptional products

nership with the Renault Sport For-

in sapphire cases priced at EUR500,000,

mula 1 Team signed in February 2016

the heart of our business in the more accessible range leaves us

marked Bell & Ross’s entry into the exclusive, prestigious and

totally relaxed for the more outstanding pieces. And on a per-

very much on-the-ground world of Formula 1. The signature

sonal level” he adds, “Basel allows me to see people I like in our

marked a first collection of watches that reflected the yellow and

dematerialized, Internet world; people I don’t see very often and

black livery of Renault F1 racing cars. With the renewal of the

with whom I can share and exchange in person”.

contract through 2018, the brand moves full throttle forward,

Rosillo was upbeat again in November in Paris as the 2017 nov-

bringing the steering wheel to your wrist with the “BR RS17

elties reached their destinations in markets around the world.

Trilogy” collection. The high-precision watches consisting of

It has not been smooth everywhere.

“The takeover of the dis-

three chronographs: the BR03-94 RS17 Automatic limited to 500

tributorship in Asia and the Middle East has been a challenge.

pieces, the BR-X1 RS17 Skeleton Chronograph with 250 pieces,

These are important markets for us, and it takes time to find

and the BR-X1 Tourbillon RS17 – a hand-wound monopusher

the right partners and to organize, to put this new organization

with a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock made in only 20 pieces -- are

into place. And of course there is an investment to open our own

made of Carbone Forgé®, titanium and / or ceramic, all materi-

boutiques, but with Chanel behind us, even if the conjuncture is

als used in Grand Prix racing cars. “The colours are superb” says

not the best, we can take our time to be sure of our choices.” The

Rosillo, and indeed are “clearly inspired by the Renault F1 car

outstanding collection of watches designed by Creative Director

steering wheel”.

MIDDLE MIDDLEEAST EASTEDITION EDITION II GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I I 101


BR03-94-RS17

The CEO is evasive when asked about the budget for the partnership. “When times are rough, this is not a major investment” he replies. “It’s win-win. In rough times, you have to maintain creativity and audacity – at the end of the day, the key is the product, and without audacity and financial means that allow you to see long-term, you might as well stop. We have the good fortune to have fantastic associates who say ‘Take your time.’ This partnership gives us worldwide visibility: when the camera is on the pilot, you can’t miss Bell & Ross on the front of the car. We didn’t even ask for that, they gave it to us. Win-win, I said. It’s a very enriching collaboration.” Other novelties this year include the two sensational “X” products from the Extreme line: the BR-XI Skeleton Tourbillon Sapphire and BR-X2 Tourbillon Micro Rotor. “We wanted extremes this year, but we also wanted to get back to essentials” explains Rosillo. “And what is more essential in a watch than the movement? We wanted to make a watch where you could see the movement, so with the BR-X1 we made a transparent sapphire case with a skeleton tourbillon movement to see inside, and for the X2, we took away the case! The case is the movement (with a skeletonized dial and sapphire crystal on the front and back). When we make a square movement without a case, the movement is exposed like a piece of art; it’s as if you’re wearing the movement directly on your wrist. And on top of that, this movement has an extraflat flying tourbillon, with a micro-rotor in ruthenium that is 5 times the density of steel so we can have a long power reserve. The movement is only 4

102 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

BR S Novarosa Full Diamonds


BR-X1 Tourbillon Skeleton Sapphire

BR 03-92 Diver

mm thick, almost like a BR S quartz model, except here we have

While on the subject of the brand’s

an automatic flying tourbillon… I don’t know of anything else

DNA, we ask him to comment on

like it.” Only 20% of points of sale worldwide are “apt” to sell the

(very rare) critics who say the brand

Extreme line, adds Rosillo.

is the result of a marketing strategy

From this year’s models, the RS-17 Trilogy and the BR03-92 Diver

intended to make it look older than it is, with no real link to

are the world’s best sellers. For the Diver timepiece, “we are very

pilots of the past.

pleased with the success of our first professional square diving

“Well” he replies, “first of all, it is our job to keep passion intact,

watch”. With water-resistance to 300 meters and meeting the

to communicate emotion, to want to ‘go beyond’, inspired by

requirements defined by international standard ISO 6425, the

the pilots who risked their lives to break the sound barrier in

watch is designed for men and women whose professions expose

the 1940s. And to those who criticize that I would say: ‘Don’t

them to extreme temperatures, violent acceleration or dangerous

have children!’. When your child is young, if you say ‘You have

pressure.

no chance to succeed’ then it is better to not have a child. I am

And in the Middle East? “Haute Horlogerie tourbillon models

very confident about the future of Bell & Ross because when I

are generally successful, and the latest launch, the ultra-mascu-

look at my children, I see they have far more capacities than

line automatic skeleton chronograph BR-X1 White Hawk with a

me – my eldest aged 10 beats me now at chess all the time, and

grade 5 microblasted titanium case covered with a white matt

the youngest plays at a national level – I see that they are already

ceramic ‘belt’ and rubber inserts is also working very well” con-

incomparable strategists with passion.”

firms Rosillo.

As a final question, with 2018 upon us, we ask what we might

Ladies have also received special attention this year with sev-

expect next year. “Our base is always the product, and long-

eral feminine models designed specifically for a smaller wrist.

term coherence. Now we have 3 universes that are coherent; the

The CEO’s favourite is the Novarosa that comes in three ver-

only thing I can reveal is that we will continue developing our

sions, with strap or Milanese mesh bracelet, diamond-set or

strong and historic thematics.”

not. “They’re fresh, comfortable and stay within the DNA of the

We can hardly wait!

brand”, says the CEO.

MIDDLE MIDDLEEAST EASTEDITION EDITION II GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I I 103


Test Bench By Christophe Persoz

Tudor

Heritage Black Bay Chronograph T

o debut the new layout of your favorite magazine, the GMT editorial team has chosen to devote this Test Bench article to a watch that is astonishing in several respects : the Tudor Heritage Black Bay chronograph. Since the 1970s, the Geneva-

based brand has acquired considerable experience in the production of this type of watch, and we wanted to find out how it has evolved its knowledge so as to offer this classic in a 2017 version.

EXTERIOR : There are no major surprises as far as the exterior is concerned. The chronograph is named “Heritage”, and pinpointing the technical and aesthetic evolutions of this model’s exterior elements over the last 30 years would be equivalent to a game of “spot the differences”. But as the saying goes, you don’t change a winning team. As a benchmark, the present writer decided to compare it with his 1989 version of the Prince Oysterdate Chronograph (its ancestor). The steel case still measures 41mm in diameter and is distinguished by vertically “cut” case sides, while the bezel is still engraved with a tachymeter scale. However, the plastic glass with which it was fitted in 1989 has now been replaced by a sapphire version, this time without a date magnifier. And whereas the crown was previously ‘borrowed’ from the brand’s big sister, it has now been redesigned and – along with the pushers and the solid screw-in caseback – helps guarantee impeccable water resistance certified to 200m. Although the style and the identity of the dial and hands remain easily recognizable, they have evolved so as to fit in with the contemporary collection and to enhance legibility, especially at night.

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MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 105


MOVEMENT : The innovative approach is most striking in this respect. Although definitely not contending in the Haute Horlogerie league, Tudor has definitely achieved a master stroke. Industry observers are already aware that the brand has recently signed an agreement with Breitling aimed at ensuring shared use of certain calibers. Breitling has access to the Tudor self-winding movement, and in return the Geneva-based watchmaker has equipped this chronograph with a Breitling caliber. Clearly a brilliant means of optimizing costs, since this self-winding column-wheel chronograph with vertical clutch and date display has a price point below CHF 5,000. Alongside a few minor cosmetic differences, the Tudor version of this movement with a 70-hour power reserve is distinguished by its variable-inertia regulating organ that should provide a distinct improvement in terms of timekeeping. And to mix things up a little further, the 30-minute counter is replaced here by a 45-minute counterpart.

106 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


TESTS : Managing to introduce a watch at this price featuring a caliber with such impressive tech specs is a brilliant achievement, even considering the industrial strike force of the Geneva Maison. All the technical characteristics of the exterior elements have been tried and tested across several decades, and ensure an appealing combination of sturdiness and reliability. But how does Caliber MT 5813 compare with the Valjoux 7750 ‘engine’ powering the forerunners of this new reference ? The results of our measurements (appearing as a table in the box) are absolutely incredible. Timekeeping precision is exemplary and the loss of amplitude in vertical positions and linked to the use of the chronograph are minimal. Caliber MT 5813 is not merely surprising, it’s an authentic revelation.

POSITIONS MEASUREMENTS 0Hrs : Fully wound

Rate (sec/day)

2.0

1.9

1.8

1.8

1.7

1.7

Amplitude

323°

307°

284°

280°

285°

282°

24Hrs later

Rate (sec/day)

0.3

0.4

0.4

0.6

0.6

0.5

Amplitude

272°

270°

255°

254°

260°

242°

48Hrs later

Rate (sec/day)

0.6

0.8

1.3

-0.2

0.7

1.4

Amplitude

240°

238°

228°

238°

222°

228°

Although this Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph is CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ Horloger | Watchmaker

extremely affordable, it makes no compromises on the qualities required in its category. Independently of any budgetary considerations, it is doubtless one of the best chronographs currently on the market. Far more than a well-made watch, this model possibly epitomizes an approach that could be the saving of the Swiss watch industry, which has in recent decades shown itself incapable of performing well and being competitive in this price range. This token of strategic and industrial intelligence should enable it to win the “Aiguille d’or” Grand Prix at the GPHG in November, and thus ensure it enjoys a serene and enduring future.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 107


Focus ALPINA

By Brice Lechevalier

Startimer Pilot Automatic CASE : titanium-colored steel, back engraved

with the case logo, water-resistant to 100m DIAMETER : 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical

self-winding (Caliber AL-525, 38-hour power reserve) FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : matt dark gray STRAP : black leather

On automatic

pilot

Heir to a tradition dating back to the first half of the 20th century, an era when Alpina served as a supplier for various European air forces, the Startimer Pilot perfectly meets the inherent requirements of sturdiness, reliability and legibility governing the world of aviation watches. Since its launch in 2011, it has been enjoying a success that has enabled it to become the brand’s biggest success. In 2017, the collection has been enriched with a Startimer Pilot Automatic entirely in tune with the aesthetic codes of the collection. Its characteristic oversized applied numerals are naturally luminescent as are the hands, whereas the signature triangle appears in red at 12 o’clock and at the base of the seconds hand. This new launch has been introduced in four versions, notably a model with resolutely modern tones playing on shades of gray between the dial and case. And as one has come to expect from Alpina, this selfwinding watch is offered at an ultra-competitive price, at under 900 euros.

108 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Focus

AUDEMARS PIGUET

By Marie Le Berre

Ceramic

calendar

Selected in the “Calendar” category of the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 2017 takes the opposite approach to that of its 2016 version, which opted for tradition by taking part in the grand comeback of yellow gold, instead adopting a resolutely high-tech exterior in black ceramic. This highly resistant, almost scratchproof material is extremely difficult to master. To ensure a perfect, hand-finished result, the result alone calls for 30 hours of work – which is five times more than its steel equivalent. The “Grande Tapisserie” dial motif typical of the collection takes on a matching slate gray shade that offsets the photographic realism of the astronomical moon phase. The perpetual calendar is inseparable from the history of Audemars Piguet, which in 1955 was the first to present a model equipped with a leap-year indicator. Born in the sporting chic category, the Royal Oak is now at ease in all stylistic veins. In last year’s GPHG, the Concept Supersonnerie model distinguished itself by winning the Mechanical Exception Watch Prize.

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar CASE : ceramic, sapphire back, water-resistant to 20m DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber 5134, 40-hour power reserve) FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, perpetual calendar (date, day, week, month, leap years, moon phase) DIAL : gray and black, luminescent hands and hour-markers BRACELET : ceramic, titanium folding clasp

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 109


Focus

BAUME & MERCIER

By Michèle Brunner

Clifton Club 10340 CASE : polished/satin-finished steel with ADLC coating, water-resistant to 100m, glareproofed sapphire crystal, solid back SIZE : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding (38h power reserve) FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date at 3 o’clock DIAL : black, opaline finish, rhodiumplated hands filled with Super-LumiNova® BRACELET : triple row design in polished/ satin-finished stainless steel, triple folding clasp

Clifton Club, for “gentlesportsmen”

Are you an active and modern professional who has made sport part of your daily life ? Are you looking for a watch to accompany you around the clock : in the office, at the gym or on the golf course at lunchtime, as well as for an evening at the club house ? If your philosophy is about keeping “a healthy mind in a healthy body”, the Clifton Club is your watch. This refined and athletic model combines performance with precision. Its polished/satin-finished stainless steel case, featuring elaborate curves comprising an integrated bracelet and crown guard, houses a Swiss made self-winding movement whose reliability has notably been confirmed by 550G shock tests. Water-resistant to 100m, this versatile watch has no fear of diving into a pool, while its green luminescent numerals – clearly visible on the black dial – will enable you to keep check on the duration of your paragliding flight as nightfall approaches. And for gentlemen motorbike riders, Baume & Mercier has just launched a limited dedication of the Clifton Club – at the Wheels & Waves California event – with a commemorative caseback engraving of legendary speed races. For more details, refer to WorldTempus.com

110 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Focus CHANEL

By Marie Le Berre

The Première turns 30

Première, the first watch from Chanel Horlogerie is celebrating its 30th birthday by welcoming the second Haute Horlogerie movement devised by the inhouse Design Studio. Whereas Caliber 1 was intended for men, Caliber 2 is resolutely feminine and, paradoxically, a skeleton interpretation. Developed by the Swiss manufacturer Châtelain, the stylized mechanism forms a threedimensional camellia, the favorite flower of Mademoiselle Chanel : the layered bridges trace petals opening onto the inner workings of time. Bearing the Leo hallmark, the star sign of the woman who created the brand, this movement unique in its kind is framed by the octagonal shape of the iconic Première case, inspired by the Place Vendôme and the bottle stopper of the legendary N°5 fragrance. The Première Camélia Skeleton is one of the watches selected in the Ladies’ category of the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. It follows in the footsteps of the Signature Grenat secret watch that won the Jewellery Watch prize in 2016.

Première Camélia Skeleton CASE : diamond-set white gold, sapphire back DIMENSIONS : 28.5 x 37mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-

winding (Caliber 2, 48h power reserve), openworked, black ADLC-treated gold FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : diamondset hands STRAP : black satin, diamond-set buckle

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 111


Focus

FABERGÉ

By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

Visionnaire Chronograph “If life gives you lemons…” CASE : ceramic and DLC-treated titanium DIAMETER : 43mm MOVEMENT : mechanical

self-winding, Caliber 6361 FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central chronograph DIAL : opaline black STRAP : gray technical textile LIMITED EDITION : one-of-a-kind model

to the heart Straight

In a period when the fight against Duchenne muscular dystrophy is especially appealing to the hearts of watchmakers participating in the auction of one-of-a-kind models, the special edition of the Visionnaire Chronograph unveiled by Fabergé is making a timely appearance. All eyes naturally turn towards the heart of this watch, to the focal point where the chronograph indications appear in a highly original manner, while the hours and minutes are displayed around the outside of the dial. It features a revolutionary mechanism developed in partnership with Agenhor and whose key assets of precision and legibility are highlighted by a powerful aesthetic specially designed for this one-off Only Watch model. Crafted in black ceramic and DLC-treated titanium, the 43mm case frames an opaline dial enhanced with a TC1 luminescent coating indicating the quarter-hours. Behind the scenes, a special Only Watch engraving adorns the movement of this special edition nicknamed “If live gives you lemons…”. A call to optimism, aptly expressed stated by this big-hearted chronograph.

112 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Focus

FERDINAND BERTHOUD

By Brice Lechevalier

excellence Explorer of

Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.3

CASE : 950 platinum with lateral openings, ceramic dials, dynamometric crown, sapphire back, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding Caliber FB-T.FC, 53-hour power reserve), 1,120 components including 790 for the fusee-and-chain transmission, nickel silver bridges with titanium pillars, COSC-certified, manual finishing FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, tourbillon DIAL : satin-brushed nickel silver, lacquered counter at 12 o’clock, gold hands STRAP : alligator leather, platinum folding clasp

In the wake of the rose gold version that won the “Aiguille d’or” Grand Prix at the GPHG 2016, followed by a white gold interpretation, the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud sets out to conquer 50 new collectors, attired in platinum framing a more contemporary dial. The marine chronometer DNA remains omnipresent, be it in the characteristic octagonal case recalling an overhead view of an historical marine chronometer in its box, or in the architecture of Caliber FB-T.FC built on 15 bridges and three half-bridges in nickel silver. Filtering through four lateral ‘portholes’ serving to admire the operation of the fusee-and-chain transmission ensuring constant force, the light plays over its 1,120 components. From an aesthetic and technical standpoint, giving new life to historical splendors in no way prevents today’s talented entrepreneur from enriching this contemporary creation with innovations – witness the filing of four patents for the suspended tourbillon, the power reserve, the fusee and the barrel. Not to mention the rare sight of a central sweep seconds-hand combined with a suspended tourbillon. Such a wealth of subtle details and impressive feats cannot be summed up in one page, so for more details, check out worldtempus.com

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 113


Focus

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT

By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

Slimline Moonphase Manufacture CASE : polished or pink gold-plated steel DIAMETER : 38.8mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber FC 702 FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, moon phase, date DIAL : silver-toned CASE-BACK : sapphire STRAP : black or brown alligator leather

Fly me to the moon… and beyond ? How can one hope to reach for the moon with consistent success and perfect precision ? For Frederique Constant, the solution was obvious : last May, its CEO Peter Stas had announced his decision to double the firm’s production capacity by a substantial extension of the manufacturing facility, backed by staff increases. This independent attitude is eloquently expressed through a brand-new “Manufacture” caliber entirely developed, produced and assembled in-house and now powering the Slimline Moonphase Manufacture. The latest addition to the current line-up of 24 in-house calibers rewrites the rules of moon-phase displays with two different counters arranged on either side of the elegantly classic silver-toned or black dial. The sapphire crystal on the back of the watch reveals the beautiful Côtes de Genève motif and circular graining typical of Frederique Constant movements. A distillation of sophisticated clothed in polished or gold-plated steel. We can’t wait to see what’s next.

114 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Focus IWC

By Michèle Brunner

A black titan of the

abyss

The Aquatimer collection by IWC is celebrating its 30th birthday with the launch of a new model that the brand decided to clothe in an all-black livery. To achieve this, it devoted five years of R&D to developing a new material more resistant than a DLC-treated metal, the solution generally used in the watch industry for black cases. Ceratanium®, a titanium alloy featuring a ceramic surface, boasts the combined advantages of the two materials in terms of lightness, sturdiness as well as resistance to scratching and corrosion. The functions of the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” are a fine match for its high-tech case. The flyback chronograph is combined with a digital perpetual calendar indicating the date and month with large numerals placed on either side of the hours and minutes counter. The disks are visible through the honeycomb grid that gives the dial a very technical look. The internal and external rotating bezels are a reminder that this imposing matt black 49mm timepiece belongs to the diver’s watch family.

Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital DateMonth Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” CASE : Ceratanium®, water-

resistant to 100m, screw-lock crown, external and internal mechanical rotating bezels equipped with the IWC SafeDive system, cambered glareproofed sapphire crystal, sapphire back SIZE : 49mm, 19.5mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Manufacture Caliber 89802, 28,800 vph, 68h power reserve FUNCTIONS : perpetual calendar, large double-digit display of the date and month, flyback chronograph, stop hours, minutes and seconds functions, small hacking seconds DIAL : black dial, black and red hands with luminescent elements STRAP : rubber, patented IWC interchangeable strap system 50-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 115


Focus

JACOB & CO.

By David Chokron

Jacob&Co. Astronomia Solar CASE : 18K pink gold, glass, case middle and back in transparent sapphire crystal SIZE : 45mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, Caliber JCAM19, 447 components, 48-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : 10-minute rotating motion, 10-minute counter-rotation of the aventurine base, offset hours and minutes, bi-axial flying tourbillon, rotating globe DIAL : pink gold metallized sapphire STRAP : alligator leather with pink gold folding clasp

Heavenly mechanism Luminosity and minerality are the twin deep-seated natures of precious stones. A jeweler specializing in large-size colored stones, Jacob&Co was bound to approach watchmaking with a strong focus on these characteristics. They are indeed the principles behind the Astronomia, particularly in its Solar version. Luminosity is at the very heart of this watch, in the form of a sun carved from a citrine according to a brand-specific faceting technique. It diffuses its photons throughout its large panoramic case. Its broad case middle and domed crystal are totally transparent. Minerality is represented by planets. A globe spins on its axis and around the movement. Seven other planets are painted on the base of the aventurine dial. The kinematics of this miniaturized solar system are driven by an entirely rotating movement. It is regulated by a bi-axial flying tourbillon that has all the complexity of an astrophysics equation. Time-setting and winding are effected via the caseback, so as not to disturb the observation of these heavenly bodies in motion. The time appears on an offset dial which, like anyone who admires it, is whirled away into the dance of the stars.

116 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Focus

LOUIS VUITTON

By Marie Le Berre

Journey in blue The Escale watch by Louis Vuitton naturally evokes travel through its lugs designed like the corners of its famous trunks. Its slender bezel ensures a broad dial opening. Using the Time Zone function, modern-day nomads can enjoy intuitive readings of all 24 time zones. The latter are represented by letters and flags reminiscent of the initials, insignia and pictograms used to personalize trunks. The latest version, named Escale Time Zone Blue, adopts various shades of blue endowing it with a resolutely contemporary character. Local time is displayed in a traditional manner in the center, while that of the various time zones appear on a rotating crown-adjustable 24-hour disk, facing the initials of the reference cities appearing on two rows. This user-friendly and universally comprehensible complication was designed and developed within La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. It appears on the roster of watches selected for the 2017 edition of the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie, in the Travel Time category.

Escale Time Zone Blue CASE : steel, transparent back

with LV signature, waterresistant to 50m DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber LV87, 42-hour power reserve) FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, 24 time zones DIAL : central disk in circular satin-brushed anodized aluminum, transferred peripheral disks STRAP : navy blue alligator leather lined with calfskinpatterned yellow rubber, steel pin buckle

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Focus TISSOT

By Fadi Jamil

TISSOT CHRONO XL CASE: 316L stainless steel case with black PVD coating CALIBER: 13 1/4’’’ DIAMETER: 29,8mm MOVEMENT: Swiss quartz FUNCTIONS: 30-minutes and 1/10 of a second counters, central 60-seconds chronograph hand, ADD and SPLIT functions STRAP: Leather BUCKLE: Standard buckle

Tissot Chrono XL It’s time to think big! Larger than life

The Tissot Chrono XL is characterised by its big case that has a diameter of 45mm. The size of the dial makes time easily readable, with contemporary Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The chronograph function adds to its urban style. It’s time to think big with the Tissot Chrono XL. STYLISH The Tissot Chrono XL collection offers multiple styles. Some may prefer the vintage touches of old school leather bracelets in various shades of brown with stylish stitches. Extra character is added with grey or black PVD coating on the case of certain watches. The dials vary depending on the model, from dark green, blue or black. Others may prefer the mat stainless steel bracelet and case for a more sophisticated feel. Whichever one you choose, the Tissot Chrono XL will definitely make a statement. FEATURES • Swiss Made • Quartz Chronograph movement • 316L stainless steel case • Water resistance up to a pressure of 10 bar (100 m / 330ft) • 316L stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and push-buttons or leather strap with standard buckle • All grey and black executions are PVD coating • Diameter: 45mm

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Focus

LONGINES

By Fadi Jamil

A special numbered edition is launched in the Middle East to

celebrate Longines’ 185th anniversay

Founded in Saint-Imier in 1832, the Swiss watch brand Longines celebrates its 185th anniversary this year. As a celebration and a tribute to its customers in the Middle East, Longines is launching a very special edition numbered and limited to 185 pieces. Based on a Heritage honey-coloured model re-edition of a timepiece from 1918, this watch displays Arabic numerals such as those used in the Middle East. As a tribute to its long watchmaking tradition, the Swiss brand Longines loves to reissue some of the iconic pieces that have enhanced its profile throughout its existence. This 1918 model draws its inspiration from the rich history of the brand with the winged hourglass and echoes the first bracelet-chronographs created by Longines. As with the latter, this timepiece features a dial also found on pocket watches from this period, but with Arabic numerals instead of the European ones found in the original model. Its vintage aesthetic and refined fabrication will entice admirers of fine watchmaking. Blued steel and honey-coloured varnish impart character to hands that stand out on a whitelacquered polished dial, which mark the hours and minutes on this reissued model. The small second hand at 6 o’clock adds dimension and contrast to the dial with its Longines’ blue colour. The honey colour can also be found on the large Arabic numerals painted on the dial, providing this emblematic early 20th century timepiece with a remarkably successful balance. This refined model is limited to 185 pieces and each model is numbered on the caseback. Measuring 41 mm, it houses an L615 automatic winding mechanical calibre. To complete the set, a honey-coloured alligator strap echoes the dominant colour of the dial harmoniously.

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Focus

BOMBERG

By Fadi Jamil

RISK REBELLION REVOLUTION If you identify

with these 3Rs you are a true Skull Rider!

It is thanks to its unique and audacious mind, creating bold and exciting pieces that BOMBERG has successfully emerged into the watch & jewelry industry – a truly innovative and unconventional brand. Bold and unconventional can also be used to describe this new timepiece’s collection released for Basel world 2017: the BOLT-68 Automatic “SKULL RIDER” – a watch that will give you a significant individual touch and make not only your “rider-look” complete. Inspired by and designed in line with the SKULL jewellery series,

eyes, watch hands or numbers on the dial as well as the BOMBERG

this new BOLT-68 Line is available in 3 limited editions.

branding glow in the dark.

-The BOLT-68 Skull Rider “Blackheart”- this watch is undoubtedly

The SKULL watches celebrate the beauty of life and the part of mor-

the darkest and most rebellious model of the collection, thanks to

tality within it - and the precious memories of our loved ones or

the colour contrast between black and vibrant green. The skull eyes

the transience of our own lives. The Rider spirit on the other hand

are changing their colour depending on time: wide open, they are

demonstrates the risk, the rebellion and the vibrancy of life.

green and when closed, we see a complete set of eyes in black. The

By sourcing the most exclusive design, each of the three new

strap is made of black leather and topped with black silicone nails.

watches have become a truly avant-garde piece of work. Equipped

- The BOLT-68 Skull Rider “Hellgold- the combination of a soft gold

with high quality leather straps and silicon nails, this revolution-

colour combined with dark black is a perfect interpretation of the

ary watch makes a bold statement and is always in line with BOM-

devil/angel duality hidden in each of us. While the wide-open red

BERG’s identity as well as its dedication to the freedom felt in the

skull eyes inspire respect, once closed, you will see nothing else but

“biker world”.

the calm dark.

But the BOLT-68 Skull Rider collection 2017 is not only standing

-And the BOLT-68 Skull Rider “Eternity Blue” – blue is the colour

out with its design and materials but also with its futuristic crafts-

of the sky and is a symbol of eternity. It seeks peace and calms the

manship and the ability to wear it in different ways for any life

torments of the body and the mind. What a beautiful contrast with

occasion. The watch is produced with an ingenious bayonet system

the Rider rebellion spirit. When open, the skull eyes are blue and a

including a trigger guard. Patented by the brand itself, the bayo-

symbol of pure life but once they are closed, the eyes are a synonym

net system turns your wristwatch into an exclusive pocket watch.

of peace and eternity.

Moreover, the BOLT-68 Skull Rider comes with a handlebar acces-

All three editions are endowed with night vision elements: the

sory which enables to clip the watch on a motorcycle.

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BOLT-68 Quartz SKULL PEARL 45mm Inspired by the SKULL series which commemorates the spirit of the celebration this new BOLT68 Quartz SKULL PEARL 45mm has been inspired by the Huichol Art. The SKULL watches celebrate the beauty of mortality, and the each image in Huichol Art has spiritual meaning and it is an expression of deeply held spiritual beliefs. The art of Huichol is personal and captivating with complex designs, vibrant colours and sacred symbols. Once again the brand has achieved its goal by sourcing the most exclusive materials, making each design a truly avant-garde piece of work. The black rubber straps of this revolutionary watch make a bold statement, always in line with BOMBERG’s identity. From a technical point of view, the new BOLT-68 SKULL PEARL has a date and a Swiss made Ronda quartz movement – all held in a black PVD 45 mm gadroons case finishing. Not only standing out with design and materials, this new watch is also crafted with an ingenious bayonet system including a trigger guard. Patented by the brand itself, this system makes each piece even more flexible and and versatile, changing into a pocket watch when the timekeeping module is detached from its base and attached to e metal chain. This modern and innovative system is a real development in three aspects of the watch-making: size, engineering and security. This new collection consists of 3 references in different colors.

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Technique By David Chokron

OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN : two Super-

LumiNova® colors

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Enhanced visibilityis an art Legibility is a major ergonomic issue, a vital factor on technical watches and also extremely important in daily living. A watch providing a clear indication of time calls for a comprehensive design approach.

A

watch proves more or less easy to read according to its degree of complexity, but also according to its compliance with certain aesthetic codes. The latter are what

determines whether a watch clearly shows the time or not. This is an important issue given that a large proportion of those who purchase high-end watches have reached the classic age of farsightedness. And you can’t ask them to pop on their half-moon reading glasses for such an instinctive and ordinary thing as checking the time on their wrist. Watchmakers cannot work on an object measuring 3.5 to 4.5 cm in diameter without realizing how small this space actually is. Especially since the previous typical 45mm size has now dropped to 42mm, which makes a real difference.

WIDEN The first lesson in enhancing legibility is to write larger. While this might seem glaringly obvious, there are a few potential obstacles. It is difficult to be subtle and refined while using thicker fonts and one soon falls into the sports watch category. This has not prevented Bell&Ross from creating a typical dial clearly geared towards readability. The formula is mainly based on the distinctive font of the four large Arabic numerals that the brand has created. Generally speaking, Arabic numerals are more legible than Roman ones, and less so than hour-markers. Oversizing the latter enhances legibility… up to the tipping point where the trend is reversed. Seiko diving watches often flirt with the limits in this respect and this borderline approach has contributed to their success. 

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BELL&ROSS BR03-92 :

HUBLOT SPIRIT OF BIG BANG

BREGUET 7147 :

SEIKO PROSPEX SRPA83 PADI :

meticulous work on the font

ALL BLACK : fluorescent

elegant black and white

large hands, large hourmarkers, large numerals

orange against a black background

CONTRAST The second lesson involves making clear-cut distinctions. The tone-on-tone approach is hard to make out. Dial-free watches lack points of reference, and skeleton watches make things even worse by introducing an abundance of backdrops and varying depths. There is no surer way of losing visual grip, apart perhaps from peripheral scales such as a tachymeter. The most effective means is definitely white against a matt black background, as Tudor has done with its Pelagos models. Polished hands and sunburst dials are also to be avoided, since mirror-type effects disturb reading in both full sunshine and dim light. The advantage of contrasts is that they also work well on elegant models, confirmed by Breguet’s Classique 7147. 

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Le Richemond Geneva

DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS

Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com

#MYRichemond


THE ROLEX CYCLOPS : an original magnifying effect

IWC PORTOFINO HAND WOUND MOON PHASES : a

date display raised to the foreground

128 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

TUDOR PELAGOS : the clear contrast between white on a matt black background

PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS REF. 5980 : a chronograph with

concentric indications


SEPARATE The risk of multiplying indications is to generate confusion. Small seconds here, chronograph indications there, and what is the purpose of this 3 o’clock counter ? Some brands have proved able to arrange complications in a particular order. Breguet has created a perpetual calendar with indications appearing in a vertical line. And Patek Philippe has superimposed the minutes and hours of its automatic chronograph, as seen with the Nautilus 5980. Conversely, certain separations also work well. Omega has optimized the nocturnal legibility of its Seamaster Planet Ocean watches by using two different Super-LumiNova® colors for the hours and minutes.

ENLARGE The last option is artificial enlargement. Rolex provides the most clear-cut example, having already patented in 1953 its Cyclops magnifying lens to enlarge the date. But the approach can also be more subtle. Some watches equipped with complication modules end up with a strongly recessed date disk and to avoid this cavernous effect, IWC has filled the date aperture of its Portofino Moon Phase watch with invisible optical fibers that raise the date and make it appear to be on a level with the dial. A highly original bright idea.

PAUL’S POSITION Putting legibility at the top of your wish list does not necessarily mean that your options are limited. A quick search on WorldTempus

for

the

word

“legibility” returned 377 articles

PAUL O’NEIL

containing the word, so there is

Chief Editor of WorldTempus.com

plenty of choice. When sufficient attention is paid to the details, even tone-on-tone, ultra-thin and skeleton watches can be perfectly readable. As is so often the case in fine watchmaking, the devil is in the details.

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Collector’s Corner By Gabriel Miles

Patek Philippe. An extremely rare, attractive and exceptionally well preserved pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, reference 2499, manufactured in 1971.

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In search of lost times The watch auctions organized by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at Geneva’s La Réserve hotel on November 11th and 12th are looking increasingly promising, characterized by quality, rarity and well-chosen themes.

Rolex. An exceptionally fine, rare and important pink gold triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases and two-tone dial, reference 6062, manufactured in 1953.

Patek Philippe. An extremely rare, beautiful and historically important white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with centre seconds and moonphases, reference 2497, manufactured in 1954.

T

he watch collecting world is buzzing, as the horological wonders assembled by the auctioneers Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo for this edition compose

yet another exceptional line-up. With just 150 lots on offer, the selection process has clearly been drastic and retained only the very finest models. For this session, a distinctive theme will be in the spotlight, with a first day entirely dedicated to TAG Heuer chronographs from the period during which the brilliant Jack Heuer headed the company, from 1961 to 1982. 

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A range of 49 timepieces from the collections of two major brand aficionados – Richard Crosthwaite and Paul Gavin, who have written important reference works on creations from the Maison – will be on offer. These iconic models will include some particularly coveted watches, such as the 1970s Carrera specially created for the legendary Indianapolis Motor Speedway, and sold at the time exclusively in track-side boutiques ; as well as the extremely rare 1962 Autavia “Big Sub”, with its three oversized dials and sword-shaped hands, estimated at between CHF 80,000 and 120,000, which will be the star of this auction. Observers will also note the appearance of a distinctive brand-new timepiece donated by TAG Heuer on behalf of the Save the Children charity : the Autavia Jack Heuer N°01 Anniversary watch. So what about the hundred or so lots slated to go under the hammer the following day ? A number of miniature marvels will be unveiled, some of which are particularly important. These will notably include the two Rolex Explorer watches worn by mountaineers John Gill and George Band for their Everest ascension ;

Omega. A historically important and unique stainless steel prototype tourbillon wristwatch, manufactured in 1947

132 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Autavia “Big Sub” ref.2446M. An extremely rare and fine stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with big subsidiary dials and large bezel accompanied by its Original Certificate of Guarantee.


the only yellow gold Daytona with a blue dial ; and above all the extremely rare triple calendar 6062 model with a pink gold Oyster case framing a dial with Arabic 3 and 6 o’clock numerals – of which only three are known to have been issued. The session highlights will doubtless be Patek Philippe watches, with several exceptional lots. Among them, a white gold ref. 2496 perpetual calendar of which there are only three known examples, equipped with an inverted magnifying window ; and a World Time with two crowns and a Cottier system of which the tenth has just been found. Nonetheless, the star model will doubtless be the ref. 2499 pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph, a worthy successor to the 1518 and free in this instance of a tachymeter scale, thus ensuring an exceptional dial diameter and legibility. Only six of these timepieces are known to date and it will doubtless attract strong bidding. Alongside these models topping the billing, a whole host of other treasures await collectors on this second day. Other brands, other worlds and other temptations that may well cause us to turn a temporarily deaf ear to the voice of reason.

Monaco “Dark Lord” ref.740.303N A very rare square shaped black PVD-coated stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial, two subsidiary registers, date at 6 o’clock, orange chronograph hands, box, guarantee booklet and hang tag.

Carrera “Indianapolis Speedway” ref 3147N. A fine and extremely rare stainless steel calendar chronograph wristwatch with black dial made for the Indianapolis Speedway shop.

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Technique By David Chokron

Micro-rotor,

maxi possibilities

134 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Caliber 240 by PATEK PHILIPPE, fitted in this instance with a complication module.

Although diminutive in size, it is widely used. The micro-rotor is enjoying a wave of enthusiasm that turns the spotlight on its many qualities.

T

he micro-rotor serves to rewind automatic movements, but stands out from traditional rotors in terms of its size, it shape and its position. The customary oscil-

lating weight is a flat half-disk topping the movement. The micro-rotor is a small, thick half-disk fully integrated into the movement. It was invented almost concomitantly in 1957 by Buren and Piaget, and subsequently popularized by Universal Genève, which had patented its own in 1954. It represented a quest for technical performance, and of course for greater slimness. These two objectives have remained in place and are now even more strongly present. Of the three original firms involved, only Piaget continued using the micro-rotor, which proved a determining factor in the second race for horological slenderness undertaken in the 2000s. One should also mention a fourth actor that came to play an indispensable role in the field : Patek Philippe. In 1997, in the midst of the quartz crisis, the brand developed an ultra-thin selfwinding movement, named Caliber 240 in accordance with its thickness. To achieve this, the brand had recruited the creator of the Universal caliber, thereby vividly proving the importance of experience in conceiving these distinctive movements. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 135


One of the many ROGER DUBUIS microrotor calibers, visible from both sides.

PANERAI has its own micro-

rotor P.4000 caliber.

ROMAIN GAUTHIER Insight, a

new 2017 model.

BULGARI sets slimness records with its 2.23mmthick BVL138 movement.

NEW LEASE ON LIFE In the 2000s, the pursuit of perfection and diversification was an integral part of the grand watchmaking revival. To stand out from the crowd, several brands opted for the micro-rotor despite its inherent disadvantages. Given its lower inertia than a large-size rotor, it winds barrels less efficiently. By way of example, the newly introduced Montblanc micro-rotor requires 11 hours on a Cyclotest machine stimulating daily wear to be fully wound, as against eight hours for a standard automatic model. To compensate for this fact, the micro-rotor is made from extremely heavy materials : tungsten in cheaper versions, and 22K gold or even platinum for prestigious interpretations. It thereby achieves standard and even comfortable power reserves. Such is the case of several Roger Dubuis movements, of the Vaucher Caliber 5401 used by Hermès, Richard Mille and Parmigiani, and also of Caliber 1.98 by Chopard, which has a 65-hour power reserve. 

136 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


PIAGET remains a keen specialist of the micro-rotor with its Altiplano range.

At the time of its rebirth in the 2000s, UNIVERSAL GENÈVE logically decided to build on this micro-rotor caliber.

One of the slimmest pioneering movements in watchmaking history, the 2mm 12P by PIAGET.

138 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Caliber S2 by MCT.

EXPANSION In 2002, Girard-Perregaux had developed a variation of its Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges featuring a micro-rotor concealed beneath the barrel, which meant it went almost unnoticed. Based on the Peseux 7001 caliber, MCT has created its own movement that it still uses to this day. Then came the turn of Laurent Ferrier. This technically elegant and distinctive solution is still in vogue, since no less than three brands have opted for this solution in 2017 : Romain Gauthier, Peter Speake-Marin and Bell&Ross (via its movement producer MHC). But the big names are still in search of the most favorable technology/ergonomics/slenderness ratio for the micro-rotor. Panerai and Bulgari have adopted this solution and their technical choices are representative of the current trend. The micro-rotor is definitely more efficient when it is heavy, and even more so if it is broad, meaning as part of wide movements. Calibers have definitely grown, from Patek Philippe’s 240 movement measuring 27.5mm to the 36.6mm BVL138 by Bulgari. The concept is also becoming increasingly flexible and adaptable to movements ranging from the simplest to the most elaborate, as showcased in the Grande Complication de Cartier.

PAUL’S POSITION The micro-rotor is a great way of saving height in a movement for an ultra-thin watch or for freeing up space to show off a wonderful open-worked movement. But as I discovered earlier this year while researching an article for WorldTempus, micro-rotor movements do not come cheap. Only a handful of brands offer micro-rotor watches below 10,000 Swiss francs, making them a watch for the connoisseur.

PAUL O’NEIL Rédacteur en chef de WorldTempus.com

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 139


Unique Piece Watches By Brice Lechevalier

Treat yourself to a oneof-a-kind model

at a standard price

Urban Jürgensen

Ulysse Nardin

One-of-a-kind Ref 2340 CHARACTERISTICS : manualwinding Urban Jürgensen Caliber P4 with hours, minutes, small seconds, date, moon phase, powerreserve indication on a solid silver dial with manual grenage, engraved and lacquered by hand, blued and yellow gold hands, in a white gold case UNIQUE FEATURE : white gold 16 numeral appearing at 12

One-of-a-kind Tourbillon Marine CHARACTERISTICS : self-winding Caliber UN-128 with flying tourbillon and silicon technology, power-reserve display on Grand Feu enamel dial UNIQUE FEATURE : XVI numeral handpainted on enamel instead of IIII at 4 o’clock

142 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Chopard One-of-a-kind L.U.C XPS Twist CHARACTERISTICS : selfwinding Caliber L.U.C 96.12, chronometer-certified by the COSC, ultra-thin case in Fairmined 5N pink gold, unique galvanized circular satin-brushed dial UNIQUE FEATURES : gold 16 numeral on blue dial (instead of gray) replacing of the hour-marker

Bulgari One-of-a-kind Octo Finissimo Automatic CHARACTERISTICS : world’s thinnest self-winding watch, titanium case and lether bracelet UNIQUE FEATURE : 16 numeral appearing as a dial cut-out at 4 o’clock


GMT and its online partner, the worldtmepus.com watch news website, have created a series of entirely original unique piece watches to mark the 16th anniversary of WorldTempus, in conjunction with a dozen or so luxury watch brands covering the entire price spectrum. Available exclusively via worldtempus.com, these watches represent an exceptional opportunity to acquire a model that its owner will be the only person in the world to wear, in most instances at the same price as the current collection. They all originate from the 2016 and 2017 collections of the brands who have designed them in the framework of this partnership. All details and orders on worldtempus.com

Hublot One-of-a-kind Classic Fusion Titane 42 mm CHARACTERISTICS : selfwinding watch with polished and satin-brushed case and bezel UNIQUE FEATURE : applied 16 numeral on the dial instead of the hourmarker

Graham One-of-a-kind Chronofighter Vintage GMT CHARACTERISTICS : selfwinding chronograph with large date and dual-time indication on the 24-hour graduated bezel UNIQUE FEATURE : red 16 numeral on the ceramic bezel

Zenith One-of-a-kind Pilot Type 20 Extra Special CHARACTERISTICS : selfwinding pilot’s watch with unisex 40mm brushed stainless steel case UNIQUE FEATURE : 16 numeral at 12 o’clock

TAG Heuer One-of-a-kind Monza Calibre 17 CHARACTERISTICS : numbered self-winding chronograph commemorating the 40th anniversary of the Monza, titanium case UNIQUE FEATURE : stylized 16 numeral on the dial at 4 o’clock

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 143


UNIQUE PIECE WATCHES

Bell & Ross

Eberhard & Co.

One-of-a-kind Vintage BR126 Aéronavale CHARACTERISTICS :

Rebellion One-of-a-kind Twenty-One CHARACTERISTICS : self-winding watch with GMT indication on openworked dial, stainless steel case with exhibition sapphire crystal caseback revealing a wheel-rim-shaped rotor UNIQUE FEATURE : red 16 numeral on the rotating hours disk

stainless steel self-winding chronograph with aluminum bezel, sapphire caseback UNIQUE FEATURES : 16 numeral on the bezel surrounded by stars, caseback engraved with the Unique Piece inscription

144 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Anonimo One-of-a-kind Militare CHARACTERISTICS : selfwinding movement, bronze case UNIQUE FEATURES : 16 numeral in small seconds aperture, red number 16 in date display, WT16 personalized strap

One-of-a-kind Scafograf 300 CHARACTERISTICS : stainless steel self-winding diver’s watch water-resistant to 300m, winner of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2016 in the Sports Watch category UNIQUE FEATURE : yellow 16 numeral at 4 o’clock on the dial


BASELWORLD.COM

Be there when the world’s most important watch and jewellery brands present their latest innovations and creations. BASELWORLD: THE PREMIERE SHOW

22 - 27 March 2018


Portfolio

PHOTOGRAPHY & RETOUCHING Studio Diode, Denis Hayoun IN COOPERATION WITH Emil Frey Les Acacias Genève & BMW

BREGUET Classique 7147

146 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


HERMÈS Slim d’Hermès L’heure impatiente

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PATEK PHILIPPE Chronographe flyback à quantième annuel Réf. 5960/01

148 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


TAG HEUER Carrera Heuer 01

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ZENITH Defy El Primero 21

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URBAN JÃœRGENSEN 1142PT L Grenage Roman Numerals

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ATELIERS DEMONACO Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Titane noir

152 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


MONTBLANC Chronograph TimeWalker Automatic

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 153


FRANCO COLOGNI AND JOHANN RUPERT,

Craftmanship

co-founders of the Michelangelo Foundation for Creativity and Craftsmanship.

By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

Homo Faber spotlighting savoir faire Slated for September 2018 in Venice, Homo Faber will be the first large-scale exhibition dedicated to European craftsmanship. An unprecedented tribute to human skills, celebrated in due style to ensure it is duly passed on and perpetuated. 154 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


A

rtisans have the Midas touch. They possess rare skills that they are now determined to showcase with the benevolent support of the Michelangelo Foundation. Jointly founded in Geneva by Franco Co-

logni and Johann Rupert, this Foundation dedicated to promoting, preserving and perpetuating the finest artisanal practices by cultivating ties between craftsmanship and design has just announced that is organizing the most ­important exhibition ever dedicated to fine craftsmanship. “Homo Faber is an expression that was first coined during the Renaissance and it captures and celebrates the infinite creativity of human beings,” said Johann Rupert, Cofounder of the Michelangelo Foundation. “The exhibit will provide a panoramic view of European fine craftsmanship but it will nevertheless have a singular undercurrent : what human beings can do better than machines.” To celebrate the nobility of the human touch, the choice of location was

obvious. “We chose Venice for this exhibition not only because it is a bastion of culture and a place of unequalled beauty,” Franco Cologni, Cofounder of the Michelangelo Foundation explained, “but also because Venice is today and has always been a European hub for exchange and connection internationally.” Spread over approximately 4,000 sq.m in the gallery, libraries and cloisters – including a former swimming pool – of the Giorgio Cini Foundation, on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore,

JOSÉ LUIS BAZÁN, master leather artisan from Andalusia, Spain,

crafting a leather bowl by hand.

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the Homo Faber exhibition will immerse visitors into the world of craftsmanship in all its forms, from the finest jewelry to custom-made bikes. Several exhibitions are designed like an interactive route aimed at promoting artisanal expertise through exceptional works, original installations, as well as the possibility of watching creations live from the workbench, with artisans plying their trade. In developing these various themed spaces, Alberto Cavalli, Executive Director of the Michelangelo Foundation, has enlisted the support of artists, designers, architects and curators including Michele De Lucchi, Stefano Boeri, India Mahdavi, Judith Clark, Jean Blanchaert and Stefano Micelli. Each in their own realm of expertise, they have created dedicated areas designed to highlight fine craftsmanship in all its countless different facets. The latter are all governed by a common denominator : excellence born of the intelligence that guides the human hand, that has been exercised since the dawn of time and represents the very opposite of artificiality.

HOMO FABER September 14th to 30th 2018 Giorgio Cini Foundation, Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, Venice, Italy michelangelofoundation.org/homofaber

THE HOMO FABER EXHIBIT will be

organized by the Giorgio Cini Foundation on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice.

156 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

DETAIL OF LACEWORK done by Renata Casertelli, master lacemaker

from CantĂš, Italy.


Craftmanship By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

At the heart of the move- H ment

In the wake of 18th century marine chronometers, the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4 embodies the ultimate quest for precision. Its chronometer-type caliber with tourbillon and constant force encompasses a wealth of technical details. We take a closer look at an approach entirely geared towards excellence. ow would Ferdinand Berthoud, back in his own time and given the demand for extreme precision involved in sailing across great distances, have imagined and

devised this timepiece ? What what he have thought of it, and which technical developments would he have sought to pursue ? Like a symbolic framework, these questions consistently accom-

pany the technical and aesthetic developments of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The heritage of this official Clockmaker and Mechanic by appointment to the French King and the Navy, a brilliant inventor and a talented author, was a perpetual source of inspiration in the creation of the movement housed in its 44mm titanium case and setting the pace for the Chronométre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4. Like the movements of 18th century marine chronometers, the latter features a wealth of technical details. 

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Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4 CASE : titanium DIAMETER : 44 mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, Caliber FB-T.FC-2, tourbillon, 53h power reserve, COSC-certified DIAL : black or silver-toned FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve CASEBACK : sapphire crystal STRAP : black alligator leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m 20-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

Visible through the transparent back of the octagonal case, the manualwinding movement reveals its unique architecture characteristic of the era of Ferdinand Berthoud himself, with its 15 nickel silver bridges and its three sapphire half-bridges framed by polished titanium pillars surrounding the mechanical organs. The machining of the sapphire bridges ensures a transparency enabling the observer to literally plunge into the heart of the components, whose finishing is entirely performed by hand using traditional tools. The eye notes the polished cone of the power-reserve – a rare device – along with the fusee-and-chain transmission mechanism, notably the original upside down and suspended construction of the barrel and the fusee. On the dial side, the performance of the caliber is embodied by the tourbillon coupled with a seconds hand. Composed of 67 elements fitted in a 16.55mm-diameter titanium carriage, it plays a key role in obtaining COSC chronometer certification – a guarantee of precision for this Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4 presented in two 20-piece limited editions that prolong the lifework of the great watchmaker, both technically and symbolically.

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Craftmanship By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

Bewitching gemsetting Both mechanical gem and aesthetic treasure, the one-of-akind Millionnaire watch reflects the exceptional expertise of Jacob & Co. in the delicate realm of gemsetting. No less than 269 Asscher-cut diamonds clothe the entirely skeletonized tourbillon caliber with a unique glow showcasing dazzling mastery

J

acob & Co. has never concealed its penchant for the extraordinary, sometimes revealed in a precious small detail. It often bursts onto the scene through its distinctive and instantly recognizable manner of endowing

each creation with superlative attributes. “Spectacular” is undoubtedly the word best suited to the watch and jewelry models introduced by the brand headed by Jacob Arabo for more than a quarter of a century. The Millionnaire watch is no exception to the rule. Better still, it vividly embodies the association of in-house skills. On the one hand, the quest for technical sophistication is expressed through the transparency of the hand-wound skeleton tourbillon caliber, proudly flaunting the secrets of its construction notably including hand-finished angles. On the other, the Millionnaire is also distinguished by the dizzyingly brilliant gemsetting virtuosity that transforms the case into a luminous jewel case, sparkling with fiery radiance as it catches the light from all angles.  To achieve such a result, the Jacob & Co. artisans have associated their various

crafts, knowledge and skills. Behind the stage of such marvelous artistry, every-

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thing begins with the meticulous choice of the 269 yellow diamonds destined to adorn the watch. Their brilliance and purity are of course the essential prerequisites. Their cut must also enable them to reveal their full splendor. Finally, the gemologist is careful to select perfectly identical gems serving to create a homogenous setting of which the surface will be as soft to the touch as a gentle caress. To embellish the Millionnaire model, the Asscher-cut yellow diamonds were thus selected with the greatest care. This cut invented by Joseph Asscher in the early 20th century enjoyed its heyday during the Roaring Twenties. Resembling a square emerald cut with diagonal-cut corners, the Asscher cut features a vast number of facets, a characteristic that endows the precious gems not only with incredible brilliance, but also with a unique vintage charm. A total of 54 diamonds of approximately 1.5cts each light up the 46 x 35mm yellow gold case with mesmerizing flamboyance. The show continues on the bracelet, also set with 203 Asscher-cut yellow diamonds. This statuesque 138.21-carat model radiates exceptional brilliance that surrounds time with precious shimmering reflections – apparently untamable and yet entirely mastered by artisans at the peak of their art.

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Craftmanship By Brice Lechevalier

Lambert

Fils & Filles tick to the beat of a new generation Watchmaking, jewelry and gemsetting dedicated to serving brands In the Lambert family, entrepreneurship and craftsmanship are the watchwords, backed by passionate commitment and rigorous discipline, as well as the indispensable ability to keep pace with their times displayed by independent firms. A gemsetter by training, Pascal Lambert has been exercising his art in the service of the finest brands (whether independent or belonging to the Richemont Group) for more than 30 years. His three children each took their first professional steps outside the family business, before joining it in their own due time and bringing their respective skill-sets with them. Anaïs continues to design jewelry creations, Kewin is a watchmaker and head of the Bulle workshops, while Virginie has trained as a gemsetter and supports her brother in day-to-day management. The three production sites house a well-knit and highly motivated 30-strong workforce.

A recent focus on mechanical watchmaking The Lambert family no longer relies exclusively on its artisanal gemsetting workshop, despite it being one of the largest and most renowned in Switzerland. Nor does it rest on the laurels of its substantial experience in the realm of High Jewelry closely attuned to market trends, which has enabled them to create collections for the major brands or to advise others for launches. Their rapidly expanding watchmaking subcontracting and assembly workshops (T1, T2, T3, complications and after-sales service) meet newly invigorated demand. At the start of 2018, Pascal Lambert will in parallel be opening a mechanical preparation workshop meeting RJC subcontracting norms in the field of watch cases, developing, casing-up and finishing. “We employ an excellent engineer who is even capable of making machined mechanical watch hands.” Lambert Fils & Filles in Bulle (MTK 2.0), Chênes-Bougerie and Plan-Les-Ouates : www.lff-ge.ch (Tel : +41 22 756 40 60)

162 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Paper-based

or At home or in the

Select

your annual subscription

Details and registration on the Magazine section of

www.gmtmag-me.com | info@gmtmag-me.com


Design By David Chokron

Grand simplification Less is decidedly more. The overwhelming trend in the watch industry is towards simplifying, paring, trimming and slimming. Watches emerge from the process more wearable, more legible, although sometimes a little bare.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato 42 mm

164 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


IWC Ingenieur

T

he

philosopher

Emili

Cioran

had a similar opinion to that of

GENTLE OR FULL-ON

Coco Chanel. The former wrote :

The

“Good taste is about knowing what

subtle

to erase. Accumulating innovative elements means accumulating ­weaknesses.” The Mademoiselle of the Rue de Cambon

approach

drastic. launched cal

change

and IWC

is

sometimes

sometimes has

for

more

example

its

­ Ingenieur

with

of

appearance.

Less

a

just radi-

technical,

also advised: “Before leaving home, look in

less busy, smoother and more traditional, this

the mirror and remove an accessory.” Behind

watch is no longer linked with the technical world

this shared standpoint lies a principle that is

of F1. The Laureato is also an example of focusing on

enjoying unprecedented popularity  : ditching

essentials. Relaunched in 2016 by Girard-Perregaux,

anything superfluous. A number of watches are being redesigned, revived and even newly created with less details, less extra bits, less textures. The

it has started from scratch : with a three-hand plus date model comprising all – and only – the identifying factors of this model that has evolved on several occasions

tendency also involves presenting less complication-crammed

in its 42-year history. Meanwhile, Ulysse N ­ ardin is evolving its

watches. Simplification begins there, as indeed does watch de-

bestseller towards a purer version. The Marine continues to exist,

sign as a whole : with the movement and its functions. The resul-

but is now flanked by the Marine Torpilleur (see our Patrick Pru-

ting price reduction is as much a collateral benefit as an initial

niaux interview on page 38), featuring a narrower and more finely

purpose. This is a time of simpler and also more affordable items.

notched bezel. The Roman numerals and hands are slimmer and

Yet in subtracting from a watch the elements that serve to adorn

the case has shed 3mm of its diameter.

it, one must be careful not to weaken the design.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 165


PANERAI

Luminor Due PAM676

CHOPARD L.U.C XPS

ULYSSE NARDIN Marine Torpilleur

DIMENSIONS AND DETAILS Trimming is not enough, however. A look at the models by Bulgari (Octo Finissimo) and Piaget (Altiplano 900P) – the two champions in the ultra-thin category – reveals that the wealth of details can actually increase as the millimeters drop off. So the key does not lie in size alone. Panerai has in fact undertaken an all-round reduction with its Luminor Due. Around 35% slimmer than the Luminor, the new model has been launched in versions featuring complication-free dials with only small seconds and date indications. No Arabic numerals, no Roman numerals, no frills… Even the case has been simplified, with less protruding edges and a less imposing bezel. The result is a watch that is much lighter all over.

BUCKING THE TREND Conversely, the L.U.C XPS by Chopard has moved in the opposite direction. A generation of ultra-slim and supremely understated models has been succeeded by a more complex and elaborate iteration, which is nonetheless far from overcrowded. The aesthetic choices are characteristic : Chopard has replaced Dauphine-type hands, which are simple elongated triangles, with its specific Dauphine-fusée type. The small seconds subdial is now hollowed and finely snailed, rather than merely transfer-printed onto the dial. And the brand has even added a domed applied 12 o’clock numeral. By giving new visual depth and richness to a watch that was one of the purest well before the current vogue, Chopard demonstrates that stripping down a watch can quite logically leave it somewhat naked…

166 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Architecture By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon & Alex Leuzinger

Lines in motion Alongside similar curves and perspectives, the RM 67.01 Automatic Extra Flat by Richard Mille and the Fosun Foundation designed by Foster + Partners, located at the heart of the Bund Finance Center in Shanghai, share the same sense of aesthetic motion, both literally and figuratively. A glimpse from three angles. Perched on the river bank at the heart of Shanghai’s Bund Finance Center, the BUILDING BY FOSTER + PARTNERS is inspired by traditional Chinese theatres and features an incredible moving façade composed of multilayered curtain-like bronze tubes.

168 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


A CONSTANTLY CHANGING AESTHETIC Built at the heart of the Bund Finance Center in

Shanghai,

the

Fosun

Foundation

building

by

the Foster + Partners architecture firm rises to the challenge of giving this place a literally moving façade. Designed like a curtain of bronze tubes whose shape recalls a row of bamboo stalks, the façade is composed of several layers moving independently of each other. This fluid rotating movement modifies the surface of the building and the perception of its depth through fascinating light and shade effects. A sense of motion that reminds one of that exemplified by the RM 67.01 Automatic Extra Flat watch. On this model, the flow of time is expressed with great light-

Richard Mille RM 67-01 Automatic Extra Flat

ness through the hours and minutes hands, as well as the date indication

CASE : grade 5 titanium DIMENSIONS : 38.70 x 47.52 x 7.75 mm

appearing in a discreet window at 5 o’clock.

MIRRORED TECHNICAL SOPHISTICATION

MOVEMENT : skeletonized mechanical self-winding ultra-

thin, Caliber CRM16, 50-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, date, function selector CASEBACK : sapphire crystal

Successfully transforming the façade of a building that is itself destined to remain immobile reflects an architectural vision firmly anchored in the 21st century. The technology involved in displacing the various bronze tube layers in a wave-like movement demonstrates great modernity and a new approach to architecture. Like the building created by Foster + Partners, the RM 67.01 Automatic Extra Flat watch reveals an identical quest for technical sophistication. The art of extreme thinness calls for highly specific expertise. Nonetheless, through aesthetic subterfuges applied to the complex case that involves 215 different machining operations, and to the openworked dial enhanced with Super-LumiNova®, Richard Mille manages to highlight the volumes and invites the gaze to plunge into the fascinating depths of its perspective.

A CLASSIC HERITAGE AS THE BEDROCK OF FUTURISM While the façade of the Fosun Foundation is fully in tune with its time, it in no way departs from the cultural roots of its surroundings. The use of the bamboo aesthetic illustrates this determination to remain firmly attached to traditions. The same philosophy governs the RM 67.01 Automatic Extra Flat which, in line with all Richard Mille creations, evokes its horological heritage without losing sight of a futurism and extreme technical sophistication. Embodied by the openworked mechanical movement partially revealed through its most emblematic elements like the wheels, rotor and screws, the discreet nod to traditional Haute Horlogerie serves a vivid reminder that innovation cannot dispense with technical heritage.

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Jet-Set By Fadi Jamil

Another Luminary in the world of

BVLGARI

Hotels & Resort 170 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Debuting in December 2017, The Bulgari Resort & Residences Dubai adds a new jewel to the brand luxury hospitality collection. Situated on the exclusive, manmade Jumeira Bay, an island carved into the shape of a seahorse and adjoined by a 300m bridge to central Dubai coastline, the sunny property is a true ‘urban oasis,’ for visitors and residents alike.

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172 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


D

esigned entirely by Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel, the renowned Italian architectural firm that has created all the Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, the 158,000 square-metre property is a first-of-its-

kind development for Bulgari, both in scale and magnitude. Charming with a Mediterranean village feel, the complex features the Resort, six residential buildings with 173 sea facing apartments, 15 private mansions, and Bulgari’s first-ever Marina and Yacht Club. Comprised of 101 rooms and suites, as well as 20 Bulgari villas with pool, garden and sea-view, The Bulgari Resort & Residences Dubai offers a full range of amenities, such as the gourmet Il Ristorante – Niko Romito, the Il Café open all day , Il Bar with its iconic oval-shaped freestanding bar and La Spiaggia the most exclusive beach Club with private beach and a unique mosaic-design outdoor swimming pool. Guests can also enjoy the 1,700 square-metre Spa with hammam, indoor pool, fitness centre, beauty salon with a traditional barbershop and hairdresser. To add relish to the guest’s stay, the complex comprises a private Marina featuring 50 boat berths and the first world’s Bulgari Yacht Club with peerless views over the sea.

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Zoom By Fadi Jamil

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Exceptional timepieces for connoisseurs and collectors DUBAI, DECEMBER 8, 2017 - Vacheron Constantin, foundation partner of the Gulf Concours since its inauguration in 2016, is welcoming discerning collectors and owners of the world’s finest and rarest cars. The oldest watchmaking manufacture in the world celebrates the mutual passion for mechanical excellence and exclusive aesthetics that is required to create work of art in high watchmaking and automotive engineering. Vacheron Constantin is a Maison of connoisseurs, built on an uninterrupted history going back to 1755 and devoted to watchmaking excellence, tradition and innovation. Thanks to Les Cabinotiers department, Vacheron Constantin has been creating unique timepieces conceived by master-watchmakers

reading of time in three modes – civil, solar and sidereal – each driven by its

constantly pushing the limits of excellence. Additionally, they have been

own gear train. Embodying the height of technical sophistication, its new

commissioned by collectors and watch experts.

fully integrated 514-part caliber measures a mere 8.7 mm thick, while six

Vacheron Constantin presents exceptional unique watches at the

barrels guarantee three full weeks of autonomy.

2017 Gulf Concours, such as Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical

“There is a great synergy between the worlds of high horology and luxury

Grand Complication 3600, a unique piece combining astronomy and

automobiles. Each equally has the capacity to stir the passions of experts

watchmaking art, awarded by the Mechanical Exception Watch Prize at

and connoisseurs”, says Alexander Schmiedt, regional director Vacheron

the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. 23 essentially astronomical

Constantin Middle East and Subcontinent.

complications appear on the front and back dials of the watch, providing a

Each Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers creation is driven by an

174 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


experienced, multi-disciplinary team composed of designers, mechanical engineers, micromechanical engineers and master- watchmakers. Together, they transpose bold watchmaking feats into cutting-edge technologies, with the only imposed limits being a determination to remain true to the values of the Maison. Les Cabinotiers also relies on the unique artistic and craftsmanship know-how. The Master guillocheurs, enamellers, engravers and gem setters of the Maison are some of the last remaining artisans who still master the intricacies of their professions and perpetuate an age-old heritage mingling intuition with expertise.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 175


Zoom By Fadi Jamil

Renderings of Slow-Moving Luminaries, Lars Jan’s installation for the 3rd Audemars Piguet Art Commission

Audemars Piguet Unveils Details of

Slow-Moving Luminaries by Lars Jan The 3rd Audemars Piguet Art Commission will be presented during Art Basel in Miami Beach 2017

LE BRASSUS, NOVEMBER 2017: Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet is

Spanning over 100 by 50 feet on the Miami Beach oceanfront, the

pleased to announce further details of its 3rd Art Commission, Slow-Moving

installation will take the form of a large-scale immersive, kinetic pavilion

Luminaries, to be presented on the oceanfront during Art Basel in Miami

presented on two levels. As visitors walk into the structure, they will be

Beach 2017. The large-scale immersive installation by multidisciplinary

directed through a labyrinth of scrim and flora as they navigate within.

artist Lars Jan, overseen by 2017 commission guest-curator Kathleen Forde,

The lower level will be populated with a series of minimalist building-

will be unveiled on the 5th December.

like sculptures that rise and fall through the upper and lower decks on

Slow-Moving Luminaries is the artist’s response to the struggle

mechanical lifts. Visitors will be invited off the main passageways to view

experienced between a state of contemplation and one of crisis. For the

further floating buildings through glass windows, a series of light boxes,

3rd Audemars Piguet Art Commission, Lars Jan manipulates scale and

and a film featuring captivating images of a building deluged in the ocean,

temporality, offering audiences a chance to face these conflicting mind-

which will create an optical tension when viewed alongside the models in

sets and contemplate a reality that can be experienced beyond the day to

motion. Completing the journey, visitors will be led up a stairway and onto

day. Slow-Moving Luminaries will allow its visitors to become participants

the upper deck, where they will find a reflective pool of water, covering the

in the work, choreographing their own experience freely and turning into

roof of the labyrinth. Through a series of apertures, the floating buildings

part of the installation as they pass through it. Lars Jan says about his

will appear to breach the surface, or to sink below it. A full miniature

inspirations: ‘A philosophy rooted in time itself has been a deeply personal

skyline will emerge, echoing the buildings lining the Miami Beach shore.

matter for me since I can remember. I came into this commission focusing

Viewers may also come to realize that the path traced on the ground floor

on time and the cycles of the planet versus the cycle of human behaviour

spells out the letters ‘SOS’, a reference to the international maritime signal

and our built environment’.

for distress. A pair of SOS maritime flags will also flutter from the upper

176 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


viewing platform. Shifting fields of LED light will transform the work as

Kathleen Forde, guest curator says: ‘I’ve had a wonderful experience

darkness falls, making the installation an evolving destination that is as

working with Lars Jan and the Audemars Piguet team. Being involved from

dramatic during the night as it is during the day. Audiences are invited

start to finish and watching the project come to life has been rewarding

to enter the installation after dusk to experience the full impact of the

and fun. The collaboration between the artist and Audemars Piguet has

illuminated work.

been an incredibly thoughtful one, and it has resulted in something quite

The Audemars Piguet Art Commission’s aim is to contribute to global

spectacular’.

artistic innovation by supporting contemporary artists who explore ideas

Olivier Audemars, Vice-Chairman of the Board of Directors, says: ‘Art has

related to complexity, precision, technology and science. Audemars Piguet

become a constant source of inspiration for Audemars Piguet. It allows us

not only provides financial support to develop and present each project,

to look at the world from a different perspective, which can be life changing

it also gives the artist access to the advanced tools, craft expertise and

for many. We love to support artists and help their fantastic ideas come to

sophisticated technology necessary to realise the finished artwork.

life. After all, there are innumerable parallels between contemporary art

The artist, Lars Jan, says: ‘Audemars Piguet has been a unique and

and the artistry and craft at the heart of our timepieces. Our evolution has

surprising collaborator not only in terms of the generosity of resources and

enabled us to consider and support craftsmanship beyond our own work in

the supportive working relationship we’ve had from the start, but also for

the Vallée de Joux and it is wonderful to be a part of this journey’.

the freedom they’ve given me to realise my vision for the commission. It is this foundational synchrony that has made this mammoth challenge a total pleasure’.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 177


Zoom By Brice Lechevalier

A STANDING OVATION

for Carlo Lamprecht, who is handing over his seat as President of the GPHG Foundation to Raymond Loretan.

CHOPARD L.U.C Full Strike

GPHG An excellent 2017 vintage

In terms of both form and substance, the 2017 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève was spot on target. Carlo Lamprecht can hand over the Presidency of the Foundation with the satisfaction of having amply fulfilled his duties.

The prize-giving ceremony that took place on November 8th at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva set the crowning touch to an extremely successful GPHG season. It began in spring with the announcement that the jury was evolving and would comprise 28 international experts ; while the summer brought the unveiling of the 72 pre-selected watches covering 12 categories and chosen from 200 candidate models submitted by 80 brands. It continued with an international exhibition on the three main continents and a superb initiative launched by Carine Maillard (director of the GPHG), which enabled the public to admire the selection with no glass casing at the Geneva Museum of Art and History, as well as enjoying educational workshops run by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. On November 8th, the ceremony

178 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


A FIRST TIME on the platform for Julien Tornare, the newly appointed CEO of Zenith, winner of the Innovation Watch Prize. WELL ACCUSTOMED to accepting the distinctions awarded to Chanel by the GPHG, Nicolas Beau never tires of this honor. ERIC PIRSON, Director of Tudor, takes the

stage for the second year running.

was punctuated by the laureates’ touching or sharp-witted acceptance speeches, humorously accompanied by the actor Edouard Baer and former Miss Switzerland, Lauriane GilliÊron. When State Councillor Pierre Maudet announced on stage that Carlo Lamprecht was handing over his role to Raymond Loretan (see our Business News column), the audience gave the outgoing President of the GPHG Foundation a standing ovation. The prize list turned out to be the most aptly chosen for many years. Bulgari, Chopard and Parmigiani distinguished themselves by winning prizes in two categories. The ensuing cocktail party and gala dinner were particularly festive. See the complete report on worldtempus.com

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 179


THEY ALL RECEIVED TWO PRIZES THIS YEAR : JeanChristophe Babin (CEO), Guido Terreni (CEO Horlogerie) and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (designer) for Bulgari ; Steve Amstutz (VP Marketing & Sales) and Michel Parmigiani for Parmigiani ; along with Caroline Scheufele (co-president in charge of Jewelry) and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (co-president in charge of Watchmaking) for Chopard.

GPHG 2017 PRIZE LIST : “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix : Chopard, L.U.C Full Strike Ladies’ Watch Prize : Chanel, Première Squelette Camélia Ladies’ High-Mech Watch Prize : Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Papillon Automate Men’s Watch Prize : Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo Automatic Chronograph Watch Prize : Parmigiani Fleurier, Tonda Chronor Anniversaire Tourbillon and Escapement Watch Prize : Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Squelette Calendar Watch Prize : Greubel Forsey, QP à Équation Travel Time Watch Prize : Parmigiani Fleurier, Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde Mechanical Exception Watch Prize : Vacheron Constantin, Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 “Petite Aiguille” Prize : Tudor, Black Bay Chrono Sports Watch Prize : Ulysse Nardin, Marine Regatta Jewellery Watch Prize : Chopard, Montre Lotus Blanc Artistic Crafts Watch Prize : Voutilainen, Aki-No-Kure Revival Watch Prize : Longines, The Longines Avigation BigEye Innovation Watch Prize : Zenith, Defy Lab Special Jury Prize : Suzanne Rohr et Anita Porchet

TUDOR Black Bay Chrono

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Zoom By Fadi Jamil

VON DOREN

Brand Store in Oslo ​Norwegian brand Von Doren, just opened their first ever Brand Store in the refined surroundings of Frogner, Oslo. Here, you can discuss the Von Doren line of his-and- hers timepieces together with the man himself, gaining privileged insight into what it takes to create classic watches of rare elegance and quality.

Porsche Cup Driver Marius Nakken with Øyvind Von Doren Asbjørnsen. Marius will participate in «Dubai 24H» The second largest long distance race in the world at Dubai Autodrome 11-13 January 2018

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 181


Zoom

By Gabriel Miles & Brice Lechevalier

Longines in the Imperial City for its 185th birthday ! Longines has had a great year, including winning the Revival Prize at the GPHG in Switzerland, as well as presenting its all-new Record collection in the Imperial City of Beijing. Check out worldtempus.com for a closer look at this model equipped with a COSC-certified movement, interpreted in 4 sizes and with 13 dials for both men and women.

Hublot at Ferrari’s Finali Mondiali As a Ferrari partner associated with the entire 70th anniversary of the Scuderia, Hublot was invited to play a starring role in the closing event of the GT season organized by Ferrari. The brand was strongly present in the Finali Mondiale, notably with its Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph.

182 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


A l’Emeraude officially inaugurated The sophisticated “choreography” marking the inauguration of the largest

RDI, a new watch winder and a brand-new production facility

independent watch boutique in Western Switzerland was skilfully orches-

To celebrate a decade of high-end rotating watch winders for self-wind-

trated by Marina Cremers and her brother-in-law Derek Cremers over three

ing timepieces, RDI Is planning to inaugurate its brand-new production

consecutive days in early November, respectively dedicated to the media,

facility in Switzerland at the start of 2018. To accompany this expan-

partners and end customers. All were impressed and won over by the qual-

sion, RDI is introducing its new Skeleton carbon fiber winder featuring

ity of the welcome they received and by the perfectly integrated concept

a fine leather lining and equipped with 16 programs suited to all types

of the three areas.

of watch.

LUC PETTAVINO (founder of Only Watch) and Prince Albert II of Monaco stand on either side of Adrien Ferré and Philippe Ferreyrolles, who both suffer from muscular dystrophy, at the Hôtel des Bergues in Geneva.

ONLY WATCH :

Prince Albert II of Monaco in Geneva For this 7th edition, the founder of Only Watch had united 50 brands which committed to creating a unique piece each on behalf of research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy. At the auction organized in Geneva by

A cigar or afternoon tea at the Hôtel d’Angleterre ?

Christie’s, Prince Albert II of Monaco reaffirmed his support to Only Watch,

Ranked as the smallest of Geneva’s five-star luxury hotels with its 45 rooms,

not only by giving a speech, but also by wielding the hammer for the last

this establishment belonging to the Leading Hotels of the World and the

lot. Seven watches exceeded the CHF 100,000 mark, including a one-of-

Red Carnation Collection was voted Best Swiss Hotel by Condé Nast Travel-

a-kind Patek Philippe model sold for CHF 6.2 million, along with those of

ler. Hospitality is no empty word in this family-run business offering simple

Audemars Piguet, Breguet, De Bethune, F.P.Journe, MB&F and Urwerk.

and delicious cuisine with grilled fish and meat at the Windows restaurant looking out on the lake, the Leopard bar with live music, a extremely cozy cigar room, as well as traditional afternoon tea. www.dangleterrehotel.com

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A Quattro pair Chrono 4 on the wrist and matching skis ! To celebrate its 130th anniversary, Eberhard & Co. has embarked on a collaborative endeavor with the Austrian high-end ski brand Blizzard. Technology, performance, stability, accuracy, control and attractive graphic design are the common denominators that are just as appreciable on the wrist as on the snow. The Blizzard Quattro Special Edition skis are produced in a 130-piece limited edition, like the Chrono 4 130 anniversary watch.

DEMONACO

Hypercars and horological complications on show The Ateliers deMonaco watch company and French hypercar manfuacturer Prato Automobiles jointly presented their mechanical creations at the 2017 Dubai International Motor Show 2017. Visitors were as impressed by the Orage and its powerful atmospheric V8 engine as they were by the watchmaking performance of the tourbillons, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars from DeMonaco.

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BLANCPAIN

A double opening in the Big Apple In October 2017, Blancpain inaugurated its New York boutique on Fifth Avenue. Among the guests who enjoyed a chance to visit the two floors of this flagship store with its revamped design was the great French chef and friend of the brand, Joël Robuchon. He too had an inauguration to celebrate : that of his nearby “L’Atelier Joël Robuchon” restaurant. New York is thus welcoming two hubs of technical sophistication and creativity.

TAG HEUER

The youth factor “I love TAG Heuer watches with their trendy and innovative design. They’re cool.” The words spoken by 18-year-old tennis player Denis Shapovalov, who has just joined the TAG Heuer roster of ambassador athletes, are entirely in tune with Jean-Claude Biver’s desire to appeal to young people. Before competing in the Swiss Indoors tournament in Basel, the blond Canadian athlete paid a visit to the brand’s manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

BREGUET A gentleman’s art of living On October 4th 2017, the exclusive Mark’s Club in London hosted the launch of the Breguet “Classic Tour”, an event based on the traditional values of the House and staging a day in the life of an elegant gentleman and his Classique watch. The British tailor, bespoke shoemaker, barber and distiller of rare spirits invited for this occasion all share with Breguet a determination to cultivate traditional savoir faire in the exercise of their respective crafts.

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BLANCPAIN

GT Series 2017 Awards and anniversary of the SRO Motorsports Group! A double ceremony took place in Paris on November 24th. Firstly, during the afternoon, the annual ceremony rewarding drivers and teams for their performances throughout the season took place at the Grand Palais Brongniart. This was followed by an evening event dedicated to celebrating 25 years of GT racing, bringing together GT competitors of the past quarter of a century. Some 500 people gathered at the Grand Auditorium at the Palais Brongniart in Paris for the Blancpain GT Series Awards 2017, following one of the liveliest seasons in the history of the SRO Motorsports Group. This was specially the case at the final European get-together of the year in Barcelona, which also hosted other well-known competitions, and had the highest ever number of cars competing, with a record 168 vehicles!

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BOVET

Presents Brilliant is Beautiful Gala Benefitting Artists for Peace and Justice’s Global Education Fund for Women

Pascal Raffy, The Duchess of York, Paul Haggis and Petra Nemcova

London, 1st December 2017: Petra Nemcova was honoured by BOVET

supporting Brilliant is Beautiful initiatives.” says Pascal Raffy. “BOVET has

and Artists for Peace and Justice at the Brilliant is Beautiful Gala. Pascal

been an indefatigable supporter of APJ since 2013 based on a dedication

Raffy, Paul Haggis, Kim Cattrall, Elizabeth Hurley, Arizona Muse, Nicole

to upholding the same valued and respected qualities– a commitment to

Scherzinger and esteemed friends came together at Claridge’s for an

excellence through education, integrity and transparency.”

intimate benefit dinner in support of women’s education.

Artists for Peace & Justice founder Paul Haggis comments, “We were

The auspicious evening of fundraising by Artists for Peace and Justice (APJ),

thrilled to return to Claridge’s for our second APJ Gala. This is the hallmark

was supported by London’s leading cultural icons to benefit Brilliant is

event of our Brilliant is Beautiful campaign and I cannot begin to express

Beautiful, which is a global fund that provides underprivileged women and

my gratitude to the great people of London whose passion and generosity

girls with secondary education.

is helping so many young women in some of the poorest communities get

The hotly anticipated event was co-hosted by an illustrious team, including

the education and opportunities they deserve.”

owner of BOVET Pascal Raffy, alongside APJ founder and multi Academy

The Gala helps raise vital funding for worldwide educational programs

Award winning filmmaker Paul Haggis, actresses and activists Kim Cattrall

serving some of the neediest young girls in Haiti, Kenya, Pakistan, Peru

and Elizabeth Hurley, event co-chairs Caroline Stanbury, Mike and Sukey

and Uganda. In Haiti, APJ’s own programs provide scholarships to over

Novogratz, and explorer Johan Ernst Nilson. International supermodel

1,500 young girls via their Academy for Peace and Justice high school and

Arizona Muse, singer Nicole Scherzinger and The Duchess of York who

Artists Institute College. In Kenya, through Many Hopes young girls are

is a long-time advocate for children and education, also attended. The

rescued off the streets from the worst of poverty, given dignified education

Gala united leading global talent around specific issues to not just raise

and poised to become local professionals and leaders. In Pakistan, Iqra

awareness but to empower women through education and honour women

Fund transforms the lives of remote rural girls previously destined to

for their achievements.

teenage marriage into the power behind their community’s new future.

Over half a million pounds was raised at this year’s Brilliant is Beautiful

In Peru, Happy Hearts Fund bridges the gap from disaster to opportunity,

event which honoured inspirational activist Petra Nemcova, who founded

rebuilding after their earthquake to provide a new high school helping

the Happy Hearts Fund, in recognition of her extraordinary commitment

hundreds of young girls gain diplomas and autonomous stewardship over

towards activism on behalf of the poorest communities on the planet with

their future. And in Uganda, Hope North’s home and secondary school

particular focus on promoting women’s education and human rights.

provides an extraordinarily supportive safe space for young women to

“We are proud that coming together in London was again a success

learn and thrive.

and that we can help guarantee 100% of every pound raised directly to

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LONGINES

Once again lends its support to the Beach Polo Cup as official timekeeper of the event Dubai (UAE), December 14th – 15th, 2017 – The annual Beach Polo Cup, which celebrated its 13th year of birth this year, recently culminated in an exciting finish. Once again, Longines marked a successful involvement as official timekeeper of the illustrious event with the Longines Master Blue from the Master collection being named the Official Watch of the event. The winning team “Nissan Leaf” was also bestowed with Longines timepieces during the prize-giving ceremony. The two day tournament was held under the patronage of His Highness Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai and Chairman of the Dubai Sports Council on the 14th and 15th of December at Skydive Dubai. Truly the sport of kings, the Beach Polo Cup is an internationally, celebrated social event highlighted in every major sporting and social calendar. Over the past 12 years, the cup has bestowed prestige upon its winners, and is a unique addition to Dubai’s polo calendar. Beach Polo helped increase the understanding of the sport, changed the perception of traditional Polo and above all, became more than just a sport, constantly pushing the limits and elevating the standard of the game resulting in pure excitement and entertainment that the sport offers, a fun thrilling experience to be enjoyed by all, not just Polo enthusiasts.

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LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION As a traditional watchmaking company, Longines has been producing exceptional timepieces since the very beginning. The Longines Master Collection is the perfect contemporary illustration of this concept, as demonstrated by the success of this collection since its launch in 2005. The Longines Master Collection blends classic elegance and excellence, for the greatest pleasure of watchmaking enthusiasts. Longines has launched fashionable chromatic variations that are perfectly in line with the classic and understated spirit of this collection. The sunray blue dial shows the hours, minutes and seconds thanks to rhodium-plated hands that stand out subtly. In addition, the men’s blue model is available with an alligator watch strap of the same colour as the dial for total harmony. These models of the Longines Master Collection come in several diameters, so that men and women can find the watch best suited to their wrist. The clear underside of the steel case allows one to admire the scintillating movement of the automatic calibres with which these pieces are fitted. These elegant timepieces are complimented by a steel bracelet or gray or blue alligator watch strap, all fitted with a folding safety clasp. Yet again, Longines continues to strengthen its legacy of adding its touch of elegance to equestrian sport.

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Spotted: Ragheb Alama, Lapo Elkann,

Carlos Fuente Jr., French Montana and Rick

Ross Wearing Hublot Watches around Yas Marina Arab Superstar Ragheb Alama; entrepreneur and style icon Lapo Elkann; cigar manufacturer Carlos Fuente Jr.; and international celebrities hip-hop artist French Montana and rapper Rick Ross were all spotted wearing Hublot watches around Yas Marina and on the Hublot Yacht during the last GP of the 2017 season. Each boasting a style of his own, they individually brought Hublot’s “First, Different and Unique” character to the 2017 Abu Dhabi Formula 1 Grand Prix. Sporting his favorite Big Bang, Friend of the Brand Ragheb Alama enchanted guests aboard the Hublot Yacht with his timeless songs, while Carlos Fuente Jr. wore the finely engraved Classic Fusion Fuente Limited Edition, launched just a month before the Grand Prix. Rick Ross opted for the Big Bang Unico GMT Carbon -ideal to accompany him on his travels, and French Montana went for the Classic Fusion Moonphase Ceramic. Lapo Elkann cheered for the Scuderia Ferrari drivers with his cherished Big Bang Unico Ferrari. The music, cigar and style icons, along with other guests and friends, enjoyed the most exclusive experience of the 2017 Abu Dhabi F1 GP weekend, brought by Hublot to its top clients and Hublotistas from around the world.

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IWC

Honours World Champion Formula One Driver Nico Rosberg With Special Edition Schaffhausen, 24 November 2017 – IWC Schaffhausen has released the Ingenieur Chronograph “Tribute to Nico Rosberg” to honour the world champion 2016 FORMULA ONE driver Nico Rosberg. The IWC-manufactured chronograph with an 18-carat red gold case was designed by Rosberg in collaboration with Christian Knoop, Creative Director at IWC Schaffhausen. A special feature of this watch is its see-through sapphire-glass back, which is printed with the “NICO” lettering from Rosberg’s helmet. Limited to 23 watches, the Ingenieur Chronograph “Tribute to Nico Rosberg” (Ref. IW380805) recalls Rosberg’s 23 Grand Prix wins. The case is made of 18-carat red gold, the dial is slate-coloured and the hands are gold-plated. The watch is driven by an IWC-manufactured 69375 calibre, a robust chronograph movement with a column-wheel control device. The bidirectional pawl-winding system generates a power reserve of 46 hours. An elegant sports watch, the Ingenieur is fitted with a grey calfskin strap. As a real highlight, the see-through sapphire-glass back is printed with the emblematic “NICO” lettering. The Ingenieur Chronograph “Tribute to Nico Rosberg” will be available in IWC boutiques and from authorized IWC retailers from December 2017.

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hublot.com

Big Bang Unico GMT. Carbon case. UNICO automatic movement with GMT function. Interchangeable blue and black rubber strap by a unique attachment system.

GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION N° 9  

At GMT Middle East Edition, we cater for the elite, not just the inspirational. Our readers include serious collectors who deploy considerab...

GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION N° 9  

At GMT Middle East Edition, we cater for the elite, not just the inspirational. Our readers include serious collectors who deploy considerab...

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