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MILAN | 米兰 | МИЛАН | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2019

DISCOVER MILAN: the essential guide to Italy’s vibrant, stylish fashion hub


FARETTA CORSO GARIBALDI MILANO, ITALY SPRING SUMMER 2019

#WELOVEMILANO TWINSETOFFICIAL

MILANO

VIA MANZONI, 34 CORSO VERCELLI, 2 CORSO BUENOS AIRES, 16


BIRGIT PIAZZA DELLA SCALA MILANO, ITALY SPRING SUMMER 2019


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EDITOR’S LETTER

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Welcome to Milan

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of Italy’s bustling, energetic city of fashion. Milan has much to offer, as you’ll discover in our guide on page 62. Don’t miss our feature on the key catwalk trends of the season from Italy’s top designers (page 44), or our round-up of the country’s innovative, forward-thinking tailors (page 52). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Milan. For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, to find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.


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CONTRIBUTORS ALEX ASFOUR

GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s news editor, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion. Before joining SHOP, Ginger worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number of publications. globalblue.com

RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD SHOP’s acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard is from the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. He studied journalism in Glasgow. Ruairidh, a fan of all things Italian, has written about fashion, art, culture and food for various outlets.

LUCINDA TURNER Lucinda Turner, SHOP’s fashion editor, studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London. Since graduating she has worked in the fashion departments of several titles, including Tatler and Marie Claire.

ILLUSTRATION: ALEX ASFOUR; PHOTO: (CENTRE) MICHAEL CHAPMAN

Alex Asfour has created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Milan in his trademark graphic style. It shows a couple in an open-top Italian sports car driving through the streets of the city’s famous shopping district, the Quadrilatero della Moda. Alex’s other clients include Airbnb, Disney, Carnival Cruises and the Washington Post. Discover SHOP Milan and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.


MAXMARA.COM MILANO - Corso Vittorio Emanuele - Corso Genova, 16 - Via Cuneo, 3 - Via Victor Hugo, 1


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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Alex Asfour Contributor Virginie Morawski Production editor Katie Muxworthy Fashion editor Lucinda Turner Deputy fashion editor Fani Mari News editor Ginger Rose Clark Associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Chris Bechtsudis Senior designer Aaron Carline Midweight designer Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Social media strategy and branded partnerships manager Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editor Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Russian communications assistant Elizaveta Kolesnikova Russian translator Teena Garnik Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Peter Darkin, Joanna Orchard Junior designers Kiranjeet Kaur, Tatjiana Antoniou Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production coordinator Inga Abramian Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data strategist Dian Liu Digital analyst intern Yunrong Kang Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Web developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production assistant Linda Hau

G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Key account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Ilaria Sassarini, Marco Savino, Andrea Zavattarelli Account managers Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi, Diana Martin, Marta Miserendino, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Vincenzo Saponara, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Sellout team Giulia Belligrandi, Erika Bordoni, Claudia D’Alessandro, Grazia Clemente, Livia Gargelli, Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue


CONTENTS CHECK OUT 18

STREET STYLE 32

SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season

Our pick of Milan’s best dressed

PRODUCTS 20

SHOP WINDOW 34

Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

Discover Bulgari’s stunningly remodelled flagship store on Via Montenapoleone

52

33

NEWS 36 Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

10 QUESTIONS … 42

FEATURES CREAM OF THE CATWALKS 44 Milan Fashion Week showcases Italian designers’ distinctive and desirable interpretations of the season’s key trends. Virginie Morawski picks the spring/summer 2019 highlights Above (from top): a street-style look at Milan Fashion Week; tailoring in progress in the Ermenegildo Zegna atelier

PHOTO: (TOP) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

… with Cesare Casadei, creative director of the covetable Casadei shoe brand


MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4 CITY LIFE SHOPPING DISTRICT P.ZZA TRE TORRI 1 CENTRO COMM. CARREFOUR MILANOFIORI ASSAGO

MARELL A.COM

ROME STORIES VANESSA MOODY


FEATURES THE CUTTING EDGE 52

MILAN GUIDE 62

SOUVENIR 98

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

The essential item to bring home

Italy’s top tailors are pushing the boundaries not only of style but also of technical innovation – and even tackling social and ethical issues. Ginger Rose Clark reports

HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 84

TABLE TALK 58 The Milan fashion crowd has high standards, not least when it comes to restaurants. Rebecca Rhys-Evans picks a selection of the city’s most stylish eateries

98

The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 86 中文翻 译 89 Русский Перевод 92 日本語翻訳 ENG LISH | РУ СС КИЙ | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily

访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购物旅游信息,每日更新 FOLLOW US AT... @环球蓝联- Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 @globalblue @globalblue.ru @shopmagazine_ /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue /globalblue

Above (top): Alberta Ferretti shoes make an ideal memento of Milan

PHOTOS: (TOP) VINCENZO PATRUNO; (BOTTOM) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru


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CHECK OUT

CROWNING GLORY For spring/summer 2019, Miuccia Prada put on a show inspired by the youth culture of the 1960s and 70s. A-line dresses, ladylike coats and dramatically feathered eyelashes all evoked the era; the star of the show, however, was undoubtedly the oversized Alice bands that accompanied each look. Presented for the new season in an abundance of colours including coral, lime and baby pink, this standout accessory is sure to fly off the shelves. Alongside simple satin designs, studs, leather, sequins and versions emblazoned with the Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

famous Prada logo are also available. For a real style statement, opt for one of the crystalembellished styles in black or soft peach; perfect when combined with a casual ensemble of jeans and a T-shirt to create a delightfully modern look. lt Prada headband, â‚Ź850, Prada, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1771, prada.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72


20 | P R O D U C T S

FEISTY FLORALS Punchy floral prints and bold accessories lend a tropical take to a time-honoured trend

Atelier Swarovski earrings, €449, Swarovski, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 4386, atelierswarovski.com

Furla bag, €270, Furla, Piazza del Duomo 31, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 6782, furla.com

Pinko dress, €345, Pinko, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4184, pinko.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Santoni shoes, €790, Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

PHOTOS: (DRESS) TOMMASO VECCHI; (SHOES) ROBERTO MAZZOLA

Damiani bracelet, €2,380, Damiani, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8088, damiani.com


22 | P R O D U C T S

Tod’s bag, €1,200, Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com

Chloé bag, €1,590, Chloé, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3035 7401, chloe.com

HELLO SUNSHINE

Marni bag, €1,390, Marni, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7327, marni.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Delvaux bag, price on request, Delvaux, Palazzo Reina, Via Bagutta 10-12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6923, delvaux.com

PHOTO: (CHLOÉ) STANISLAS WOLFF

Embrace spring/summer 2019’s must-have accessory hues with a stylish yellow or vibrant white handbag


PHOTOS: (ACNE STUDIOS) ACNE STUDIOS; (GUCCI) GIUSEPPE D’AMBROSIO

S H O P | 23

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Acne Studios bag, €550, Acne Studios, Piazze del Carmine 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8410 2383, acnestudios.com

Loewe bag, €1,250, Loewe, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 0533, loewe.com

Fendi bag, €2,300, Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1617, fendi.com

Gucci bag, €4,900, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, gucci.com

Burberry bag, €1,850, Burberry, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3601 0852, burberry.com

Ermanno Scervino bag, €1,990, Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, ermannoscervino.com


24 | P R O D U C T S

GO GREEN Green malachite is making a huge splash in the watch market this year, so it’s time to invest in a vivid dial

Piaget watch, €17,900, Piaget, Via Pietro Verri 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3216 4701, piaget.com

Dior watch, €13,000, Dior, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7801, dior.com

Chaumet watch, €13,120, Great Masters of Time, Corso Magenta 11, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7208 0537, chaumet.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Rado watch, €2,070, Cielo 1914, Piazza del Duomo 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 874010, rado.com

PHOTO: (ROLEX) ROLEX

Rolex watch, €41,150, Rolex at Pisa Orologeria, Via Montenapoleone 24, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7726, rolex.com


MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so Vercelli, 35 C.so Genova, 20 C.so XXII Marzo, 5


26 | P R O D U C T S

LADYLIKE LUXE DSquared2 sunglasses, €270, DSquared2, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com

Prim and proper styles make a comeback this season – top off the look with a glistening headband and grown-up black heels

Miu Miu headband, €390, Miu Miu, Via Saint’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1799, miumiu.com

Elena Ghisellini bag, €390, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, elenaghisellini.com

Red Valentino dress, €857, Red Valentino, Corso Venezia 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3675 6030, redvalentino.com

SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello shoes, €825, Saint Laurent, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0573, ysl.com

PHOTO: (SHOES) THEBEHRENS.NYC

SHOP HIGHLIGHT


28 | P R O D U C T S

MONOCHROME MIX A bold striped suit with classic luxury accessories will see you through from day to night

Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet, €4,950, Van Cleef & Arpels, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 776 7951, vancleefarpels.com

Escada Sport blazer, €549, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com

Celine by Hedi Slimane bag, €2,300, Celine, Via Montenapoleone 25/2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7788 5900, celine.com

Manolo Blahnik shoes, €730, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 654831, manoloblahnik.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Escada Sport trousers, €379, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com


30 | P R O D U C T S

SUMMER STYLE

Stylish pastel tailoring and a statement short-sleeved shirt are a winning combination for spring/summer 2019

Borsalino hat, €195, Borsalino, Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 3028, borsalino.com

Ray-Ban sunglasses, €162, Ray-Ban, Piazza San Babila 3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7600 3569, ray-ban.com

Etro shirt, €355, Etro, Via Montenapoleone 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 5049, etro.com

Church’s shoes, €550, Church’s, Via Sant’Andrea 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8794, church-footwear.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Hackett trousers, €150, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, hackett.com


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STREET STYLE A neutral palette and a healthy dose of animal prints were the looks of the season for Milan’s street-style set. Mixing feminine shapes and moderate hemlines with real Italian glamour was the order of business, while each look was topped off with a standout pair of designer shades.


PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

S H O P | 33

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SHOP WINDOW

BULGARI’S MILANESE REVIVAL Bulgari’s recently refreshed Milan flagship pays tribute to 1930s design and to that of notable Italian architect Piero Portaluppi in particular. Inspired by Portaluppi’s greatest achievement, Villa Necchi Campiglio, the updated store features a diamond motif on the dividing walls and geometric patterned marble floors, as well as a captivating winter garden. Bulgari’s covetable jewellery and accessories are elevated by the refined surroundings, which echo the brand’s stores in New York and Rome. Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Milanese furniture, including chairs by Ico Parisi and tables by Mangiarotti, provide areas in which to pause and consider potential purchases. Masterminded by Peter Marino, Bulgari’s reinvented Milan boutique is somewhere you’ll long to linger. sm Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72


LARDINI FLAGSHIP STORE · VIA GESÙ, 21 LARDINI FLAGSHIP STORE · VIA GESÙ, 21


36 | N E W S

IN FULL FIG Culti Milano recently added the new Oficus fragrance to its range of diffusers. A celebration of the fig, it combines the fruit’s green element with notes of vanilla and sandalwood. Oficus is available in various sizes, including the pictured 1,000ml. The Milanese brand’s offering also encompasses a range of wonderfully scented candles, sprays, soaps and more – this latest addition makes a great olfactory souvenir. grc Culti Milano, Via Fiori Chiari 6, 20122 Milan, +39 02 3655 3875, culti.com

Only Moschino could take the concept of an unfinished collection and turn it into fashion gold. Jeremy Scott’s latest range pokes fun at the fast-paced fashion industry in a series of eminently wearable looks that are pure fashion theatre. From skirts decked with pussy bows and suit jackets featuring colourful scribble to hand-drawn floral prints that evoke 80s nostalgia, our favourite looks strike the perfect balance between fun and feasibility. It wouldn’t be Moschino without a few out-there options and the measuring tape and scissor gowns are definitely high drama. sm Moschino, Via Sant’Andrea 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 2639, moschino.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

PHOTO: (RIGHT) CARLO SCARPATO XXXXXXX

WORK IN PROGRESS


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BY WOMEN, FOR WOMEN Milan’s fashion district recently welcomed a new store from Antonelli Firenze, the Tuscan label’s first flagship. Bringing its own brand of elegant femininity to Milan, the boutique blends white leather furniture and grey oak herringbone floors with sleek garment display areas which frame the clothes as though they were pieces of art. The Tuscan brand, which began in the 1950s as a producer of lingerie, was reinvented in 2001, with sisters Enrica and Roberta Antonelli initially updating the shirt for a discerning new generation. With a commitment to sumptuous materials and stunning silhouettes, Antonelli Firenze is proud to create looks that are made in Italy ‘by women, for women’. sm Antonelli Firenze, Corso Venezia 12, 20122 Milan, +39 02 2506 2210, antonellifirenze.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

BOTANICAL BEAUTY When Italian painter, sculptor and interior decorator Piero Fornasetti first used opera soprano Lina Cavalieri’s face as a motif on a range of homeware pieces, both their fates were sealed as icons of Italian interior design. What many, however, don’t know is that Fornasetti was also inspired by nature, and the brand’s latest collection pays homage to the botanical beauty that he loved. Fornasetti’s Coromandel collection spans furniture and accessories, including unique pieces by Barnaba Fornasetti, the founder’s son and the brand’s creative director, making the perfect piece of Italian design to take home. rp Fornasetti, Corso Venezia 21A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8416 1374, fornasetti.com

PHOTO: (LEFT) STEFANO BIDINI

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

globalblue.com


38 | N E W S

SET FOR SUCCESS In September last year, Twinset Milano opened a new flagship in Milan, the brand’s fourth store in the city. Founded as a knitwear company, Twinset Milano’s offering now spans a full wardrobe with everything from clothing and underwear, through to footwear and bags. With a sleek look, the new boutique perfectly encapsulates the brand’s identity, making it the perfect place to shop the covetable spring/summer 2019 collections. grc Twinset Milano, Galleria Passarella, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 20122 Milan, +39 02 2336 9085, twinset.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 68

50 YEARS OF STYLE Founded in Legnano in 1969, Aspesi celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. Timeless style and use of high-quality materials form the backbone of Aspesi’s designs, two signature traits that can be found in the spring/summer 2019 range. Linen blends, recycled cotton, and light poplin are among the fabrics used across the shirts, trousers, dresses and skirts in the collection. March 2019 saw the opening of the brand’s new Milan flagship, perfectly timed for the anniversary. Like all of Aspesi’s other flagship stores, it is an elegant setting for the brand’s sophisticated designs, such as this dreamy printed silk chiffon dress (€2,660). grc

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Aspesi, Via San Pietro all’Orto 24, 20121 Milan, aspesi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 68


40 | N E W S

BEST SHOT Late 2018 saw the opening of an official National Basketball Association store in Milan. Located in Galleria Passarella, the NBA store benefits from a central location in one of the city’s key shopping areas. Watch screenings of matches displayed on giant screens while shopping jerseys from the Eastern and Western Conference teams, T-shirts, footwear, headwear and more. Reminiscent in design of the New York store, this is the first official NBA store in Europe and only the third in the world, making it a must-visit for fans of basketball. grc NBA, Galleria Passarella, 20122 Milan, nba.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

The sustainability trend is crucial in the current climate and Yatay has created a range of eco-friendly footwear that is cool as well as being conscious. Crafted by hand in Italy from recycled fabric, vegetable oil derivatives, cotton and water-based glue, Yatay trainers, such as the pictured styles (â‚Ź240), are made using a process that cuts CO2 emissions by 80% compared to standard manufacturing technology. Materials are dyed using non-toxic colouring agents and the trainers are even packaged in boxes made from recycled plastic bottles. Thanks to a partnership with One Tree Planted, for every pair of shoes sold Yatay will plant a tree in an area of deforestation. Guilt-free shoes have never looked so good. sm Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, yatayatay.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 73 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

PHOTO: (TOP) FABRIZIO FORTE

ONE TO WATCH: YATAY


WE ARE MANKIND

MILAN – VIA MANZONI 43 – T. +39 02 49504363 W W W.7 FO R A L LM A NKI N D.C O M


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10 QUESTIONS ...WITH CESARE CASADEI A stalwart of the Italian fashion scene for over 60 years, Casadei creates some of the most beautiful shoes in the world. Lucinda Turner caught up with the creative director of the family-run business to ask about its prestigious past, exciting future and finding inspiration in the everyday

2.

HOW IMPORTANT IS THE MADE IN ITALY BENCHMARK OF QUALITY TO THE BRAND TODAY? For our company, Made in Italy means quality, innovation, research, design, craftsmanship and so much more. Casadei’s roots were consolidated in high-class artisanal tradition.

3.

WHAT SETS CASADEI APART FROM OTHER ITALIAN FOOTWEAR BRANDS? To me, Casadei has two souls: one lies underneath the shoes, one is the heart we pour into making them. This bond and deep connection is what has made our shoes special, through the decades and the fashion trends.

4.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE CASADEI WOMAN? Cosmopolitan. Versatile. Ageless. The Casadei woman transcends traditional categories.

5.

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR NEW DESIGNS EACH SEASON? My inspiration could easily come from watching the world that surrounds me – the one I live every day and that I personally experience.

The Blade heel perfectly balances feminity and design Above (from top): Cesare Casadei with the brand’s iconic Blade heel; a variety of looks from Casadei spring/summer 2019

PHOTO: (TOP) ULI WEBER

1.

HOW HAS THE BRAND CHANGED SINCE IT WAS FOUNDED? My parents founded the company in 1958, in San Mauro Pascoli. I entered in 1994 as creative director, after years of managing and experimenting with my own line, YDW. My goal was to merge the pioneers of Made in Italy craftsmanship and promote the image of the brand on an international level.


6.

WHICH SHOE ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2019? It’s very hard to pick, but I would say the Futura, inspired by the experimental attitude of the 60s.

7.

HOW DO YOU DECIDE ON THE NAME OF EACH SHOE? I name every style after the vibe, the inspiration, the idea, the link that shoe automatically pops into my mind. It’s the fluid association of my creative process expressed in words.

8.

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) MARCO LAMBRI

WHY DO YOU THINK THE BLADE HEEL HAS BECOME SO ICONIC? The Blade embodies the perfect balance between femininity and design. I think that its global success is due to its highly recognisable heel, which is like a trademark. What I love about

the Blade is that women from across the world can style it according to their personalities, yet you can tell from afar who designed that shoe. It’s a style that fits each personality, that breaks the traditional boundaries.

9.

HOW IMPORTANT IS THE PHYSICAL RETAIL SPACE IN MILAN? Milano is the current fashion capital. It incorporates luxury, art, business, gastronomy and culture – it’s the perfect place for fashionistas and industry enthusiasts.

10.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR CASADEI? With 25 flagship stores, Casadei is expanding in China. We recently opened in Doha, as well as a corner at Rinascente Turin. In 2015 the brand unveiled its new store concept in Rome and then in Milan, followed by the 120-squaremetre boutique in the exclusive Albemarle Street, in Mayfair, London. Casadei is currently working to reinforce its visibility worldwide. Casadei, Via Sant’Andrea 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8293, casadei.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70

Above (from top): Casadei design sketches; Casadei spring/summer 2019


PHOTO: ALESSANDRO GAROFALO

Milan Fashion Week showcases Italian designers’ distinctive and desirable interpretations of the season’s key trends. Virginie Morawski picks the spring/ summer 2019 highlights

CREAM OF THE CATWALKS


Below: Max Mara spring/summer 2019


Italian style wins us over with its combination of allure, sophistication and pizzazz

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PHOTOS: (TOP) ALESSANDRO GAROFALO; (BOTTOM): GORUNWAY.COM

talian designers are famous for imagination, elegance and flair, and for spring/summer 2019, the labels on the Milan Fashion Week schedule incorporated the main trends of the season in some remarkable ways. A preference for nude tones was a common thread shared by many brands at Milan Fashion Week. Max Mara has championed camel for decades, so it comes as no surprise that it was one of the key drivers of the tonal trend for this spring/summer: worn head to toe, the Max Mara palette spanned beige and camel through to deeper browns. At Fendi the nude tones were applied to safari trousers as well as to feminine dresses and skirts. Salvatore Ferragamo used nudes for utilitarian pieces such as dungarees and ponchos, as well as for tailoring. While neutral nudes were a recurring catwalk colour scheme, that didn’t mean brands were shy about using colour. Some opted for a kaleidoscopic effect, including Versace, which juxtaposed a multitude of clashing prints and patterns in single pieces. Other brands opted for the slightly edgier tie-dye, seen on a T-shirt dress at No21, on one of this season’s most iconic bags at Prada and on denim at MSGM. But if you have to choose only one shade to Above (from top): Max Mara; Fendi, both spring/summer 2019


PHOTOS: (BOTH TOP): GORUNWAY.COM; (BOTTOM) IMF STEPHEN JAFFE

S H O P | 47

invest in for spring/summer this year, make it yellow. A perfect hue for summer, it was presented in all shades: vibrant chartreuse at Versace, bumblebee at Max Mara, more muted ochres and mustards at Agnona, and the palest chiffon hues at Alberta Ferretti. Fitness has been a driving theme for several seasons, and brands continued to incorporate activewear into high-fashion collections. Swimwear was a strong contender: Etro was inspired by the Pacific coast to the point of sending professional surfers down the catwalk, Sportmax also drew on surf in sequined rash guards and in crochet bikini tops and bottoms worn with tailoring, while Moschino’s swimsuits were defined by the brand’s signature tongue-in-cheek spirit. Those who prefer to eschew beach and pool get-up might prefer cycling shorts. At Jil Sander shorts were part of an exploration of the concept of uniform and its ties to athletics and performance. At Roberto Cavalli, creative director Paul Surridge touched on notions of the power and energy of the body in a collection that also featured cycling shorts. Overall, designers channelled a sophisticated take on activewear, with references that felt like a celebration of the body. Above (clockwise from left): Versace; Etro; Sportmax, all spring/summer 2019


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elegant: the tonal colour scheme served to accentuate chic silhouettes. MSGM and Prada offered some playful options in the form of bow-adorned designs and dresses made from oversized sequins or feathers. Over the past couple of seasons there has been a strong focus on sleeves, and this came into full force in spring/summer 2019’s beautiful dresses. Sleeves were based on asymmetric constructions, namely single sleeves or straps. Max Mara, Versace, and MSGM were just some of the names to present variations on single-sleeve designs.

PHOTOS: GORUNWAY.COM

In a push away from previously omnipresent streetwear, brands orchestrated a return to feminine dressing. Long dresses, elegant silhouettes and beautiful details were just some of the design elements adopted by brands for spring/summer 2019. Dresses formed the backbone of the Marni collection, from Grecian-style pieces to 1950s-inspired shapes. Moschino’s dresses were defined by a bold 80s aesthetic. Gucci left clients spoiled for choice with a wide range of finishes on dresses, from floral prints to metallic fabrics to fringing. The entire Max Mara collection was supremely

Above (from left): Marni; Moschino, both spring/summer 2019


SHOP PESERICO.IT

PESERICO BOUTIQUE MILANO Via Solferino, 3


A week or so before Paris Fashion Week made headlines for spelling out the end of the Phoebe Philo era at Celine, Milan Fashion Week laid the foundations for plenty of alternatives when it comes to chic, minimalist dressing. Luke and Lucie Meier, the creative duo at Jil Sander, opted for a pared-back aesthetic that centred on the idea of uniform in structured, boxy shapes. Agnona’s Simon Holloway, who was inspired by the wardrobe of artist Joan Jonas, played with volume in simple, elongated silhouettes: trenches, tunics, dresses, ponchos were worn layered, sometimes belted, other times loose in a collection defined by its poised nonchalance. Salvatore Ferragamo also verged on minimalist chic, with a strong focus on cut: simple tailoring as well as sleek leather twopiece outfits and dresses came together to form a collection that was mature as it was elegant. Finish your spring/summer 2019 look with key accessories from Milan Fashion Week, including Fendi’s belt bags, Prada’s tie-dye bag or Sportmax’s bucket hats. Alternatively, opt for woven bags or shoes, an important trend for the season: Alberta Ferretti’s basket bag and Salvatore Ferragamo’s woven footwear, inspired by the house’s archive, are among the season’s highlights. As Milan Fashion Week proves time and time again, Italian style continues to win us over, for its combination of sophistication and allure with unashamed pizzazz Above (from left): Jil Sander; Alberta Ferretti, both spring/summer 2019

PHOTOS: (LEFT) MONICA FEUDI; (RIGHT) GORUNWAY.COM

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THE CUTTING EDGE Italy’s top tailors are pushing the boundaries not only of style but also of technical innovation – and even tackling social and ethical issues. Ginger Rose Clark reports Right: tailoring in progress in the Ermenegildo Zegna atelier


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ailoring with a twist is the new wardrobe must-have for gentlemen, as the spring/summer 2019 collections play enticingly with innovative fabrics and cuts. ‘The suit continues to be a man’s “uniform” par excellence, but the new rules of elegance permit a new interpretation,’ says Corneliani’s style director Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, who uses silk in myriad ways this season for the brand’s collection. The brands experimenting with fabrics and fabric treatments include Boglioli, known for its garment-dyed jackets. ‘A special garment-dye process was developed to enhance the process that Boglioli is known for,’ explains Camille Hopp, assistant merchandiser. ‘This process creates a solaro effect.’ (Solaro fabrics have a subtly iridescent finish.) Working within the elegant remit that defines Italian tailoring still permits plenty of room for experimentation. Gianluca Isaia, CEO of Isaia, explains the approach. ‘We take what inspires us from all over the world and incorporate certain cuts and silhouettes that are reflective of how the modern gentleman dresses, without abandoning our identity.’ This play with fabric and cut is enabled by the business model of many of Italy’s larger tailoring brands, including Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana. These are vertically integrated: in other words, they control every stage of the process, from production of the raw materials to the final details of the finished garment. For example, Ermenegildo Zegna started out as Lanificio Zegna, a wool mill located near Biella in Italy: over the years it gradually expanded to span everything from raw materials through to ready-to-wear and bespoke offerings. Having everything under one roof gives the company easy access to the finest materials as well as plenty of scope for research and development. Demand is one of the key drivers of change. Tramonte highlights how the typical tailoring customer has evolved over time. ‘In the last 20 years, many things have changed in men’s fashion,’ he says. ‘Today there is no longer an age cluster you can refer to; it’s about social environment and about culture. Furthermore, the habits of men have changed, and everybody wants to be more casual on most occasions.’

Above: Boglioli spring/summer 2019

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Brands have had to come to terms with the fact that men today have a different relationship with their wardrobe to that of previous generations; as a result, travel, technology and modern lifestyle now enter into the equation when designing suits for men. In response, Isaia’s spring/summer collection features seersucker jackets that don’t need ironing. This style was born out of Gianluca Isaia’s own schedule, which mirrors that of many of his peers. ‘I essentially live on a plane, so what I travel with and wear has to be made to fit my jet-set lifestyle,’ he notes. ‘Seersucker is a fantastic fabric for this reason. For spring/ summer 2019 we have a seersucker tuxedo which I also sometimes wear with a T-shirt, to give a more relaxed feel.’ The Aquaspider is another of the brand’s most popular travel fabrics. ‘These fabrics not only travel well, but are liquid resistant, so if someone spills a drink on you, the liquid beads off and does not get the garment wet,’ explains Gianluca Isaia. Every aspect of contemporary daily life has to be taken into consideration and Canali has managed to incorporate many of these requirements into its Impeccabile 2.0 line of garments, which includes suits, coats and Above (from top): Ermenegildo Zegna started out as Lanificio Zegna, a wool mill located near Biella; Canali Impeccabile 2.0 line


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shirts, all made from breathable fabrics with a natural stretch that are resistant to creasing, water and stains. As lifestyles have become increasingly linked to all things digital, brands are investigating new possibilities. For spring/ summer Corneliani has unveiled the Connected Style capsule collection of two outerwear pieces and two bags that allow the wearer to wirelessly recharge a mobile phone in an internal pocket that features special inbuilt technology. Faced with a globetrotting customer who is well-informed and wealthy, designs such as Connected Style are a way to capture the attention of this worldly gentleman, as Tramonte explains. ‘Our mission is to try to talk to him with the right language and give him evidence of the evolution of our product. Quality and elegance are a given,’ he says. ‘We need to tell him a real story that can convince him to choose us. Today the requirement is to offer something that the customer does not have in his closet – in terms of style but mainly in terms of function.’ When it comes to innovation and change, sustainability also provides a framework in which to innovate. For example, Etro’s spring/summer 2019 collection for men centres heavily on sustainable fabrics, made locally from natural fibres such as nettle and jute, coloured with vegetable dyes. But the desire to do good doesn’t stop there and many tailoring companies are instigating change on an even larger scale. Above (from left): Corneliani Connected Style collection; Etro spring/summer 2019


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The Fondazione Zegna’s mission is fourfold: preserving environmental and cultural resources, fostering sustainable development in local communities, supporting scientific research and providing education for young people. This is complemented by Oasi Zegna, a public park covering 100 square kilometres in the Biella Alps, established by the brand as an environmental project in the region where the Zegna mill is still located. The Fondazione Canali Onlus engages in projects spanning medical research, healthcare, social assistance, employment and education. While ethics have only recently become an important dimension to the fashion industry, tailoring brands were among the first to

understand the importance of tackling societal and environmental issues: brands such as Ermenegildo Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli have been implementing ethical and sustainable structures for years, making them true pioneers of conscious fashion. Despite being anchored in tradition, suiting has become a canvas for new ideas, thorough research and boundary-pushing technology. This innovation is part of a holistic approach: brands invest as much in cutting-edge ideas relating to fabrics and cut as they do in developing business models and large-scale social, ethical or sustainable projects. Keen to do good across the board, Italy’s tailoring companies have their eyes firmly trained on the future

Above: Oasi Zegna, a hundred-square-kilometre public park in the Biella Alps

PHOTO: Š MATTIAS KLUM

Brands are investing in cutting-edge ideas relating to fabrics and cut, and developing social, ethical and sustainable projects


TABLE TALK The Milan fashion crowd has high standards, not least when it comes to restaurants. Rebecca Rhys-Evans selects some of the city’s most stylish eateries

Whether you’re visiting Milan for fashion week or enjoying a weekend city break, the city’s reputation as a fashion capital always shines through. Milan is not only a hotspot for shopping the latest luxury fashion, it is also home to an array of eateries known as the fashion crowd’s favourite haunts. Our selection includes a restaurant housed in a majestic neoclassical palace and a rooftop bar that sits above the headquarters of fashion royalty. At Milan’s coolest places to eat and drink you’ll feel as though you’re front row every time you sit down for a bite. globalblue.com

PHOTO: MANUEL COEN STUDIO

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LÙBAR An establishment known for its impressive interiors, LùBar’s tranquil botanical wonderland is a quiet yet vibrant oasis that lets you escape the hustle and bustle of the city. In keeping with the city’s reputation as Italy’s fashion capital, LùBar hosts many fashionrelated events throughout the year, especially during Milan Fashion Week, where the space has served as a catwalk for the mother of the three founders, designer Luisa Beccaria. Set in the stunning neoclassical Villa Reale, also home to Milan’s Galleria d’Arte Moderna, the space encapsulates beauty, opulence and creativity in its very walls. Although the family are Milanese, they have Sicilian roots, and have brought some traditional Sicilian charm to the menu with a street-food element. A venue for all occasions, LùBar has the atmosphere of a typically chic Mediterranean bistro and also comprises a patisserie and bar, making it a comfortable and colourful little palace for breakfast, lunch or dinner. LùBar, Via Palestro 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8352 7769, lubar.it


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CARLO E CAMILLA Carlo e Camilla is so stylish and enticing that you spend most of your time here with eyes wide, drinking in as much of the atmosphere, decor and people as possible. Described by its owners as ‘exclusive but informal’, Carlo e Camilla is set in a striking former sawmill built in 1929. The vast, bare plaster walls and expansive industrial ceilings lend a cool, contemporary contrast to the warm and friendly vibe provided by the service and general atmosphere. Grand chandeliers hang over long benches and the food is as alluring as the interior design. A seasonal menu offers traditional Italian gastronomy with modern, scrumptious twists, pigeon beast served with Jerusalem artichokes being a house favourite. The cocktail bar, regularly reserved for fashion events, is always filled with a stylish crowd of Milan’s trendiest locals and international visitors. There is also a beautiful courtyard to enjoy in the summer. Carlo e Camilla, Via Giuseppe Meda 24, 20136 Milan, +39 02 837 3963, carloecamillainsegheria.it

If you’re looking for a traditional trattoria with a contemporary twist, Drogheria is the place to be. It’s a firm favourite with influencers such as Chiara Ferragni – one of the world’s most powerful influencers, who just happens to be Italian, so you can’t go wrong if you’re hunting for a spot that has Instagram fame. The atmosphere is relaxed and there are many regional Italian dishes to choose from that are perfect for sharing, as well as a good range of Italian wines. If you’re visiting in summer, outdoor seating means you can soak in the Italian sunshine over your arancini and tonnarelli alla carbonara. But possibly the best thing about Drogheria is its delicatessen, which allows you to take the best ingredients home with you. There are three Drogheria branches in the city; we list the central Carrobbio branch. Drogheria Milanese, Via Conca del Naviglio 7, 20123 Milan, +39 02 5811 4843, drogheriemilanesi.it globalblue.com

PHOTO: (TOP) CHICO DE LUIGI

DROGHERIA MILANESE


Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from top fashion boutiques to a relaxing spa. Don’t miss the ancient Sant’Ambrogio basilica (pictured). Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

PHOTO: DIMITRISVETSIKIS1969 CC0 CREATIVE COMMONS

MILAN GUIDE


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Max Mara If you’re seeking the best of the key spring/summer 2019 trends, Max Mara’s interpretation of the looks of the season is not to be missed . Max Mara, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8849,

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● TWIN SET P.38 ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS COCCINELLE ● ● PINKO SWAROVSKI ● ● DISNEY ● LIU JO ZARA ● THE HIGHLINE T O MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER ’OR ALL ● GAP ZARA ● TRO ● ADIDAS . P IE CALZEDONIA ● V. S ● TEZENIS UNITED COLOURS ● PULL & BEAR OF BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA IS TO F O R IA DE CR ● MANGO G A LL ER ● KIKO ID MAX MARA ● MAX & CO ● Excelsior PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● WYCON ● YAMAMAY MARELLA ● MARINA RINALDI ● ● CISALFA

Piazza Liberty

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S H O P | 69

PIAZZA SAN BABILA AREA Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti & Via Bigli Corso Venezia & Corso Europa RA

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IA N B D I O P TI N D DI IC EP ISB DI P A E C IG A E L N U L IN L U C T T C E D E LT I ● MAR IA I V A NA NT NT I ● VI M R ER ● TT IL O OR M M O SA N OL I ●● AT C IO IA A ● O M 'S ● R IM A P RC N ● SA H V IA TH ES VI TO VI UN I ● M EN B ● ● NE T BE OL RE IN L W H NC OT DE ES E FL SIR I ● O TI BE T W E X E ● CA R X O VE NA OD ● P.3 Ta N R ● 7 LI EZ DI ● r ● & F tu V I fi EL F O FA R N O R I A N A ● IG rien RN M IE I ● O A S AC M ● M ds EA I R IL A ET RO AN ND ● T ’A I● BE MA O DO NT RT LL LC SA O O A DO E& FE NI VI LC ST ● GA E& D A BB Ba ● GA OL AN r ● ARMAN I CASA A FL BB CE & M a ● r ti AV A N G ● STONE ISLAND A A n I O NE ● ANTON ELLI FIRENZ E P.37 CA BAR BBA i RO N ST BI NA ● ALFIER I ST.JOH N GI ER EL ER ● P.7 AR O LA E ● ● WOL FO RD 4 DI GIA NI N R ● I P DO ● GAGÀ MILAN O JU DIN LC HILI NI ● ROY ROGER S OR I ● E & PP ● M DIEGO GA PLE ● IN BB ● ULTIMA EDIZIO NE ● A M OR C NA SA E EMPR ● W OO ESC OS ● ● NOMIN ATION LR HI ● IC ● ● CHRIST OFL E H CR ● OM BORRE LLI VILLA NECCHI LUIGI ● IA ● ● RED VALEN TINO CAMPIGLIO H ZA ● LOVE MOSCH INO OY O M R A LI S E ● ● FRANK IE MOREL LO CO VI A H O ● ● ● FL OS NT NA LU CE PL AN I● ON

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Global Blue Retailer Department Store

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Brian & Barry Building San Babila

● GALLO ● SMOKE

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MERITALIA ●

● MARGHERITA ● JUVENTUS STORE

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● LEGO ● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● EDDY MONETTI ● RAY-BAN ● FLORSHEIM ● BROSWAY Piazza ● BOGGI San Babila ● NESPRESSO ● BALDININI TREND ● MAZZOLARI ● CAMICISSIMA ● VANNUCCI ● DIESEL MILANO OFFICIAL ● STORE

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● MONTEGRAPPA ● FABBRICATORE ● SCHREIBER ● PORADA TURRI ● ● INBORGOSPESSO 18 ● CORNELIO CAPPELLINI BOTTEGA VENETA ● GALLUCCI HOME ● ● ALTOMANI & SONS ● MAISON SIBULET Drogheria ● GALLERIA SILVA LOUIS MICHAIL Parini ● TOP TIME MUSA ● MALVEZZI ● SOLO BLU

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JF LONDON ● RO OTTICA S.SPIRITO ● SSA AGRESTI ● RI WALTER PADOVANI BALENCIAGA ● ● ANTIQUARIO ISABEL MARANT ● ● DAAD DANTONE ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● CARLO TIVIOLI O ●● ANDREA GHELLI ● T NEIL BARRETT I GIORGIO JANEKE ● I R ● DROME GIANVITO ROSSI ● S P ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE O ● PAROSH BALLIN ● Global Blue Lounge N T● IL BISONTE SÙ GE S A● N° 21 A CHANTECLER ● A VI I STELLA V ● MANDELLI MCCARTNEY ● NI

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LARDINI ● BARBA NAPOLI ● CAIATI FINE ARTS ● ORIENTAL ART ● MARINO FOSSATI ● DOUCAL'S ● ROSALBA ● KITON ● SILVANO LATTANZI ● LUCIANO BARBERA ● Ù BARRETT ● ES TINCATI ● DORIANI CASHMERE ● I A G ZILLI ● V STEFANO RICCI ● MIMÌ ● RUBINACCI ● GOYARD ● ACQUA DI PARMA ●

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● I O UT R IN ● RL DE CH A B E A N Y TA OS AD M ● L S AV M I A R S TA ● PR T JI N RE M TIS 6 ● ● P & T EN .3 RA TO P IU ● ● M RM B A L I Z U UR NA ● IA AL A Z L L A IU M EL SE T V G U E ● A M IN OD S VI ● AQ A N N M ND ● SA ● CH IS T MA E R A A ● IR AR TZ R P P B R VIE IG ● NE LI I A ● U I E SP I E V A I RY ● ET NI ST W NN OM W H T R P O LL XU G E VEN N A ● ● BA A R E IOT B O DE TH BR A LU RO ● E S AC R A I ● A NO ’S ● VI C P IA IAN 70 LA EG AG R C H H Y IL ● CH R TT U C OV ● DO CH EN ● BO ● V C A TA RI GI ● I UT TE A ● ● AG O N EU IEL O ● IA AB S VI EL G IS OR O AR LIN M M A E ● ● RL M M A N RS E CA O ● LL SO BO PR SI ES Y ON T AI TO M LE ER M ● LE GE ’OR A J I MO O ● ALL P O P I CCI D E R TRO ● P IE CH DEI N A N EN GU SA N V IA ● E X AQUE SA TE CA ON E ● AL MC M IPP A ● ● NI 2 ER IA IL IS A ● I O P.4 ND V PH -P RI I ● BR S A DY I N A K TIN E M ● T 2 TE N OG FU JIL D ● FRE AR RED PA S TA R O L R O M A P N I O ● U LA LI IN CO A RO Q G S ● I T I S ● AD G D AB ON P E VI ● PA L ER Y ● ER C EB RI ● CH IC ENN DE E VA G IE LL FR MA ● ● RD FO T ● M PE ● TO U LI LO LI AO J NP NA SA CA VIA INI ● DIN BAL Y● NT ● VE EL E T T ICO OO

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SAN BABILA

Piazza San Carlo

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Metro

Global Blue Lounge

Restaurant

Piazza San Babila

Featured In This Issue


time is pisa

the leading retailer for watch lovers

pisa orologeria boutique rolex via montenapoleone 24, milano

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pisaorologeria.com

pisa orologeria boutique patek philippe via verri 9, milan0

pisa orologeria boutique vacheron constantin via verri 9, milan0


72 | M I L A N G U I D E

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EG IL D B L TT M O C B O Z ALL EG O N U C A L EG Y ● SE LO A T IN M A N EM RG R VE B L EL IN A ● O IL IO P NE AN LI ● IO R IA T C ● V ● IA PU OS NA A ● ● ● F MA CC SI ● ● C O A L N ZO P I R CO I ●● NI NK N N ● ● R O ELI ER AN I ● GI OL VE US EX I TR EP BO ● E P U SA V RI E T ● VA LVA I A B O E D Z A NI Q U TO RG I E O E LE R E OS M P T T P I NT I IN FE PES OL DE SA O R R SO I SI GN AG AM O

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LOUIS VUITTON Louis Vuitton’s story started in Paris in 1854 with luxury luggage, and it is now one of the world’s most popular luxury brands. Staying true to its heritage, it continues to bring elegance to travel – the brand’s iconic logo-embossed print is still seen on many of its accessories. For spring/summer 2019, Louis Vuitton is the epitome of innovation and style, presenting a collection inspired by the 1980s; think shoulder pads, relaxed tailoring and geometric prints in bold colours. Louis Vuitton, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

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Metro

Featured In This Issue

NF OR TE


S H O P | 73

SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA Via della Spiga

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globalblue.com


74 | M I L A N G U I D E

MONCLER For high-performance outerwear and stylish clothing, shoes and accessories for all, be sure to visit Moncler. Set on famous Via Montenapolene, it’s currently the largest monobrand Moncler store in the world. The flagship stocks pieces for men, women and children, including the new Moncler Genius concept – a series of monthly drops that are set to replace the usual biannual collection format of spring/summer and autumn/winter, keeping the collections fresh and on trend. Moncler, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 1316, moncler.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

In 2019, the Philipp Plein brand celebrates its 20th anniversary. To mark the occasion, it presents a dazzling spring/summer 2019 collection inspired by musician Michael Jackson. Details such as fringing, embellishments, studs and crystals run throughout the menswear and womenswear designs, which include leather jackets, skinny jeans and T-shirts. More formal pieces also feature in the form of shimmering shirts and jackets for men, and statement eveningwear for women. As a special nod to the first piece made under the Philipp Plein label 20 years ago, a handcustomised military parka, the spring/summer 2019 collection includes a series of hooded parkas and field jackets. Philipp Plein, Corso Venezia 7/1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 6666 9940, plein.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69 globalblue.com

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ZACH HILTY

PHILIPP PLEIN


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Non-Global Blue Retailer Metro

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Piazza Meda

Global Blue Retailer

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Restaurant

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76 | M I L A N G U I D E

DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

Via Dante

● PETALI CERATINA 1919 ●

ZANI VIAGGI, MILAN VISITOR CENTRE ●

CAIROLI

● ETHIMO ● HILDEGARD ● COLTELLERIA ● LORENZI MILANO ● ERBARIO ● CAMICISSIMA GIOIELLERIA

TA

VIA

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VIA TIVOLI ●

VI A NI RO

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AG

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LENZUOLISSIMI ● OTTICA VIGEVANO ● GIOIELLI ● D’AUGUSTA TA NO MARCO ● NE G R NASHI ARGAN ● I LIMONI ●

RO

VIA

AS

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TO

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● ELENA MIRÒ ● CANETTA ● GUESS ● KOCCA ● MUSTO ● WOMO ● FAST WEB ● CESAR IMPERIAL

● KIKO ● TRIUMPH ● CARPISA ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ VI A Piazza ● TIM PO

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DANTE CORDUSIO ● WIND VI A SPAD

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DESIRÈE PROFUMERIA ●

CO R SO M AGE N TA

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Global Blue Retailer

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Metro

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GIOIELLI ORO ARGENTO ● METROPOLITAN ● FINI ●

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● CURIOSITÀ ESOTERICHE ● EE ERCOLESSI ● BANG & OLUFSEN ● BUSCEMI ● CHICCHE DI CALZE ● L’ETICHETTA ● ALDO GUGLIELMINOTTI ● BOTTEGA ARTIGIANA TIFERNATE ● ABITINO EASY CHIC ● CINZIA SCARPE

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ASICS ●

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PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ● MARIONNAUD ● DE NIGRIS ● BOGGI ● RAW ● PINOTTI ● MATIAS OUTLET ● PERFUME BY CALÈ ● RUE DE CONCEPT ● WATCH HUNTERS ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●

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● ALDO CITTERIO ● 3 STORE ● GIOIELLERIA FEDELI ● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI ● VODAFONE ● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO ● SAVINELLI ● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO ● BLU SAND

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● YAMAMAY

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PRIMADONNA ● SWAROVSKI ● NAU OTTICA ● Z Z MOLESKINE ● LE R O P LOCKER ● FOOT VI A LO BY LOVABLE ● LUSH ● SIGNORVINO ● OVS ● V

US

VI

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SOLARIS ● ● HILDEGARD ● ESIBIUSI ● EYETECH OTTICA ● CAMICERIA TIZIANO ● MELLUSO STORE ● WOOL CASHMERE

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SHUFFLES ● CAPPELLERIA MELEGARI ● IL VECCHIO DRAPPIERE ● PIUMINI DANESI ●

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GOLDEN POINT ●

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MARIA GRAZIA MANESCALCHI ●

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest


S H O P | 77

CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

LA FELTRINELLI SWATCH ● ● READ EAT DREAM ● AIRNESS

Piazza Gae Aulenti

RE PL BA AY LA MO N C N E W● L E● SE ESKI PH NE CO O R ● LM A ● A N I KR ● E● UN D E B E RM U J I R A GO ● RM MI OU ● R●

SELECTED STORES IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI: Accessorize Calzedonia Eurobijoux Foot Locker I ER SP La Feltrinelli TO TI Lama OpticalVIA Tally Weijl Tezenis

PI

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VIA

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QC TERMEMILANO Take a break from Milan’s bustling centre this summer and head to the Porta Romana neighbourhood. Located in a former tram depot, QC Termemilano is an unexpected oasis of calm. The holistic wellbeing centre is a great place to cool down, with an outside pool and whirlpools, a salt room, steam baths and olfactory rooms. Come for the day and spend time in the peaceful pools or book a spa treatment. QC Termemilano, Piazzale Medaglie d’Oro 2, 20135 Milan, +39 02 5519 9367, qcterme.com Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer Train Station

Shopping Centre/Mall

O RC . MA VIA S

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AZZ M IL V IA

CO RS O

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● 120% LINO ● VINTAGE WATCHES MILANO ● ARTEST ● SPAZIO 23 BUTTERO ● ● ASAP ● WOMO ● BERGOMI ● NAU

MANILA GRACE ●

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78 | M I L A N G U I D E

Via Solferino & Via Brera

Corso Garibaldi, Via Ponte Vetero & Via Madonnina I

ALD

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RS

CO

AMINA RUBINACCI ● LIBERO MILANO ● MES DEMOISELLES ●

COV A

VIA

TO

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N VIA PO

PIAZZETTA S. MAR CO

● ONE BRERA ● DIPTYQU E

SO G

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METROCITY ●

● KAMMI VITTI FERRIA ● CONTIN ● ROSA & CO

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LIO T E

SSA

BABELE ●

SO

VIA MER C AT O

● BARK THE MERCHANT ● OF VENICE ● PETTINAROLI

SEAL UP ● OTTO D'AME ●

VIA DELL’ORSO

● CAMPOMARZIO70 ● KIEHL'S

VIA MONTE DI PIETÀ

Via Cusani & Via Dell’Orso

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

VIA DEL LAURO

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Global Blue Retailer

VIA DELL’ORSO

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SA IT TO ●

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P SO E ● ● A E S O A D E L L'O R Y A R T S R ID G T IC MER THE B RENZI ● ● OT ERFU LO ● IN E P O N N 9 IA ● FA B R IN KO ● ANI P ● M IS T E R AL . ● ● W SI .E .T Y D .A L U ● ● AL FRÈ B F ORO ONI ● ● G IO T O IL E G R IF G M ● MUS GENT MS E ● ● S IM O O T C R -F O E ● ● E T R FO N GOOS V I A D E L L’ O R S O OLDE M I -G USA NI

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VIA BRERA

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S EAD OLLB E● ● TR NAMON D 'A M C IN OT TO ● IO N ● L IO FA S H ● F.C S S O 3 5 T IN A RY ● ● R O AT T R O MAR E LUXU 4U ● SEAS D IS O ● O P IÙ PA R A ● UN IR S OR L L O N U P S TA ● ZH A ● A IE LLI ● CL ARDE ● M .B ONE RO ● ET D E S IM ● IE D I L E G IO A R O L U IS AC C A R IA N ● FU ● BE A T T IN ● CA O % L IN ● 12 0

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● MIDINETTE ● LE BEBE

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● L'OCCITANE ● JE M'EN FOUS ● LA TENDA ● BAGATT ● ILIPRANDI ● DILMOS ● LE SOLFERINE ● GIADA PROFUMERIE ● FRAGONARD RICHARD VIA FATEBENEFRATELLI ● GINORI

TACCIO

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MIL AU RA ●

● THE SLOWE R STORE

VIA ANCONA

OTTICA AVANZI ● BLU DEEP ● GIOIELLI MERÙ ● PESERICO ● ST. BARTH ● LO SFIZIO ● MALI PARMI ● LE PANDORINE ● MANUEL RITZ ● SOLFERINO MARKET ●

CITTÀ DEL SOL E ● MY STY LE BAG S ●

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GLAMO UR VIA GOITO ● IN ROSE ● CITT ER IO GIOIEL LI

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BOFFI SOLFERINO ● FALIERO SARTI ●

VIA SOLFERINO

● NV I A D E IKE LLA M


S H O P | 79

ANGELA CAPUTI If you’re on the hunt for Italian jewellery, head to the workshop of Angela Caputi. Based in Florence, the designer creates pieces inspired by 1940s American film. Her designs have been showcased in Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, as well as the Museo degli Argenti and the Galleria del Costume in Florence.

Caputi does not shy away from making a statement; her creations incorporate bold colours, femininity and geometric shapes. Angela Caputi, Via Madonnina 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 1080, angelacaputi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 78

BRIC’S

PHOTO: (TOP) ALESSANDRO BENCINI

Bric’s is a luxury Italian brand through and through: founded in 1952 near Lake Como, it has gained global recognition for its reliable travel products, which span suitcases, duffel bags, backpacks, briefcases and more. Craftmanship is a key value for the brand, resulting in exquisitely made luggage, exemplified by the pictured Bellagio collection. With shells made from the lightweight but durable trademarked Makrolon polycarbonate, ergonomic handles and a sleek look, the cases in this collection – available in a range of colours, including black, silver and navy – are the perfect choice for modern adventurers. Bric’s, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, 20121 Milan, +39 02 2219 8061, brics.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 66

globalblue.com


80 | M I L A N G U I D E

CORSO BUENOS AIRES AREA IA

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D-MAIL ● ZAGO COSMETICS ● ● PIQUADRO GAMESTOP ● STRADIVARIUS ● ● GUESS KIDS ● GUESS MUTINELLI CAPPELLI ● FOSSIL ● BLUKIDS ● ● H&M SOLARIS ● ● SAN PIETRO MILANO KIKO ● PEPE JEANS ● ● DOCKSTEPS STEFANEL ● ● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

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For drinks with a view, head to Terrazza 12. Located high in the Brian & Barry Building, this sophisticated lounge bar offers a cool outside terrace, and is an ideal spot to enjoy an aperitivo. The terrace overlooks spectacular views of Milan’s skyline and the vibrant interior is beautifully decorated with striking design features. The drinks menu offers 12 signature cocktails while the kitchen offers a superb pairing menu. Terrazza 12, Brian & Barry Building, Via Durini 28, 20122 Milan, +39 02 9285 3651, terrazza12.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69 Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

ME

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TERRAZZA 12

Global Blue Retailer

FRIS

V IA

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S H O P | 81

OPENING TIMES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

DAY TRIP

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The biggest designer outlet in Europe, Serravalle Designer Outlet boasts over 240 stores, 11 cafés and restaurants, and guest services including a tax refund and currency office, international payment facilities, and free Wi-Fi.

Serravale Designer Outlet, Via della Moda 1, 15069 Serravalle, +39 0143 609000, mcarthurglen.it/serravalle

MILAN

A4

A50

A7

E70 E70

E70

DESIGNER BRANDS FOR 30-70% LESS With over 300 brands to choose from, Serravalle Designer Outlet is the perfect place to indulge in designer fashion. Luxury brands including Gucci, Fendi and Versace Chic, trend-led womenswear from Sandro and Dondup, and men’s tailoring from Isaia and Canali Italian style with Furla, Giuseppe Zanotti and Ferragamo Sportswear from top labels Nike, Adidas and Salomon

• • • •

Outlet Village

A7

Serravalle Designer Outlet

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A7 until you see the exit for Serravalle Scrivia. Take the exit and follow signs for Serravalle Designer Outlet. The journey takes around an hour.

By shuttle bus The popular shuttle bus service takes customers from Milan to Serravalle seven times a day.


OPENING TIMES

82 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP

FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE

Come to Franciacorta Outlet Village and discover over 190 stores of top international brands and discounts up to 70% all year round. Franciacorta Outlet Village, Piazza Cascina Moie 1, 25050 Rodengo Saiano, +39 030 681 0364, franciacortaoutlet.it

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway (exit Ospitaletto) or take the A35 Bre-Be-Mi (take the final exit) then proceed to junction A4. Your journey will take less than an hour.

By shopping shuttle There is a daily shuttle service from Milan, for information and schedules go to franciacortaoutlet.it

THE WINE & SHOPPING TOUR The Wine & Shopping Tour lets you discover a land full of taste. You might enjoy a guided tour with tasting sessions at one of the Franciacorta wineries – the Village’s shuttle service will take you there. For booking and information, visit the Zani Viaggi office on Milan’s Largo Cairoli. globalblue.com

NEW OPENINGS … There is always something new to enjoy at Franciacorta Outlet Village. Fratelli Rossetti, North Sails, Under Armour, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Patrizia Pepe, Tru Trussardi, Loriblu, Martino Midali, Flavio Castellani, Caractère and Plein Sport are just a few of the stores which have opened at the village in recent months. Come and discover the new stores.

PHOTO: © 2014 MAURIZIO CAMAGNA

Beautifully situated between Lake Garda and Lake Iseo, and less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta Outlet Village offers a unique and sparkling shopping experience imbued with the wine and food culture of this extraordinary region, which is the home of the famous Franciacorta DOCG wines.

Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm June, July and August: Friday and Saturday 10am-9pm


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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices. Spend a minimum of €154.95 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (after security control), first floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 88

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How To Get Your Tax Refund At The Store Request a Tax Free Form. Please note: when completing the Tax Free Form, retailers may ask you for the information below, due to the new Otello 2.0 legislation. • • • • • •

First name Surname Country of residence Date of birth Identity document Passport number*

Passport issuing country

*Swiss customers can present an identity card instead of a passport

If you do not provide the information above, you will not be able to obtain a Tax Free Form.

At The Point Of Departure Please follow the instructions at the airport. ITALY’S MAIN AIRPORTS (Rome Fiumicino T3, Milan Malpensa T1, Florence Peretola, Venice Marco Polo): Items in check-in luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or kiosk for electronic validation and refund BEFORE check-in. Items in hand luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or Customs AFTER security control for electronic validation and refund. You can go to a Global Blue Refund Office/Customs up to four hours before your departure time.

Kiosk

Follow the instructions on the screen and your refund will be paid to your credit card within five days.

Other Italian And EU Airports

Go to Customs and get your validation BEFORE check-in. Go to a Refund Office displaying the Global Blue logo, or mail your stamped and completed Tax Free Form(s) back to Global Blue in the envelope provided, and get your refund paid to your credit card within three weeks.

NO CUSTOMS VALIDATION = NO REFUND


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中文翻译

44: CREAM OF THE CATWALKS 秀场精华 在 米 兰时装周上,意大利设 计师们以独 树一帜而引人注目的方式,对本季的热 门趋势 做出了诠 释。Virginie Morawski为 您挑 选2019年春夏季亮点

意 大 利设 计师向来以超 凡的想象力、优 雅的气 质与卓越的才华而 著 称。2019年春夏季,米兰时 装周上 的各家品牌 纷 纷用令人赞叹的方 式 展现 了本 季的主要趋势。 裸 色调的大 量使用是 本次 米兰时装周上贯 穿 各大品牌的一条脉 络。数十 年来,Max Mara 一直极力 推崇驼色;在该品牌的春夏季 色调趋 势中,驼色成 为一大关 键元素自然 也 就不足为 奇了:从头到脚,Max Mara作品的配色 从 米黄 色和驼色 逐渐变化 至较 深的褐 色。Fendi将 裸色 调运用到了旅行 长裤、秀 美 连衣 裙 和短裙 上。Salvatore Ferragamo则将 裸 色用于背带 裤 和 披 风等实用性单品,以及 正 装西服 上。 虽说中性的 裸 色在 秀场上并不鲜见,但 这并 不意 味 着各大品牌对色 彩的使用趋于保守。一 些品牌 — — 包括Versace— — 选 择了色 彩 缤 纷的 效 果,同时在单品上大 量使用反 差鲜明的印 花 与图案。另一些品牌则选 择了略 偏前卫的扎染, 例如No21的一款 T恤衫、Prada本 季 最引人注目 的手袋之一以及MSGM的丹宁作品。但是,如 果 今年春夏季您只想入手一 种颜色的衣物,那 就 非黄色莫 属。黄色是 最 适合夏天的色 彩。Versace充满活力的黄 绿色、Max Mara的大 黄 蜂色、Agnona更 柔 和的赭色与芥末 色、Alberta Ferretti最淡 雅的各 色雪纺……各大 上图: Max Mara 2019春夏

品牌 都 对 黄色做出了精彩 演绎。 几个季度以 来,健身风潮一直是秀场上 的一 个重要主 题,各大品牌也不断在高级时尚系列 中融 入 运 动服。泳 装领域的竞 争就 很 强烈:Etro 受到太平洋 海岸的启发,将职 业冲浪 运 动员送 上了T台;Sportmax同样以冲浪为切入点,推出 了饰 有亮片的防晒衣,以及 和剪裁 单品搭配穿 着的钩针比 基尼;Moschino的 泳 装则淋 漓尽致 地体 现了该品牌天马行空的 标志性 风 格。 对 沙滩 和泳池 装 扮 无感的人 或许可以 选 择 自行车短裤。Jil Sander的短裤 体 现了该品牌的 一次 探索,挖 掘了制服的 概 念及其 与运 动 和性 能的紧密联系。Roberto Cavalli的系列作品中同 样 有自行车短裤,该品牌创意 总监Paul Surridge 在其中展现了他 对人体 能 量 这一概 念的独 到见 解。总体而言,各大 设 计师以成 熟风范演绎 运 动服,令人感受到一曲对人体的赞 歌。 众品牌抛弃了此前无处不在的街头风 潮,精 心策 划了一场秀 美裙服 的盛 大回归。修 长连衣 裙、优 雅的廓形、精美的细 节……这些只是各 大品牌 在 2019年春夏季 采用的一 部 分 设 计 元素 而已。从希腊风 格的单品到受50年 代 影响的造 型,各种 连衣 裙 撑起了整 个Marni系 列。Moschino的连衣 裙凸显了鲜明而大胆 的 80 年代审 美风 格。Gucci连衣 裙以各种各样的细 节 来 装饰,从植物印 花到金 属线织物再到流苏, 款 式丰富至极。整 个Max Mara系列都优 雅 无 比,柔 和的色调将别 致的廓形 衬 托 得 恰到好 处。MSGM和Prada则推出了饰 有蝴 蝶 结的单品 和用硕大亮片或 羽毛 打造的连衣 裙,带来了许 多别具趣味的选 择。 在 过去的几个季度中,袖子 一直是人们关注 的一大 重 点,这在 2019年春夏季的优美裙装 上 也 得到了充分 体 现。袖子的设 计以不 对 称 结 构 为基 础,也 就是单 袖或 单肩带 款 式。Max Mara、Versace和 MSGM等许 多品牌 均 推出了款 式丰富的单 袖设 计。 巴黎时装周上,Celine因为后Phoebe Philo时

PHOTO: ALESSANDRO GAROFALO

TRANSLATIONS


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代的不同面貌 登上了新闻头 条;而在 这 之前的 一 个星 期左 右,米 兰时装周众多品牌 就已 经 为 简约风 潮 卷土 重 来 铺 垫了基 础。Jil Sander品牌 的创意 双人 组Luke Meier和 Lucie Meier选 择了 做减 法的审 美哲学,专注于结 构 鲜明、造 型 方 正的制服概 念。Agnona品牌的Simon Holloway 从艺 术家 Joan Jonas的衣 橱中获得启发,以简约 而细长的廓形玩 转 体量概 念:在 这个 貌似漫不 经心的系列中,风 衣、宽松罩衫、连衣 裙 和 披 风 叠穿 在一 起,有时 搭配一根 腰 带,有时则自然 松 开。Salvatore Ferragamo同样趋于极简主义时 尚,同时 格外注 重剪裁:简约的西装廓形、时 髦 的皮革两件 套 和连衣 裙共同组 成了一 个既成 熟 又高雅的系列。 用 Fendi的腰 包、Prada的 扎 染手 袋 或 Sportmax的渔 夫帽等米 兰时装周主 打配饰来完 成您的2019年春夏季 造 型吧。除此 之外,也可以 选 择 本 季度的另一重要趋势 — — 编织手 袋 或 鞋 款:Alberta Ferretti的藤篮 袋和 Salvatore Ferragamo受品牌经典旧作启发的编织 鞋 款都是 本 季亮点。 正如米兰时装周一 遍 又一 遍 地证明过的, 意 式 风 格 融 合了成 熟 气 质、卓绝 魅力以 及一抹 不加掩 饰的潇洒,也 将因此而继 续赢得 我们的 喜爱。

52: THE CUTTING EDGE 尖端风潮 意 大 利的顶级裁 缝 正在努力突破 时尚风 格与 技 术创新的界限— — 甚至还开始 涉足社会与伦 理议 题。Ginger Rose Clark 报道 随 着各大品牌 的 2019年春夏季系列纷 纷 玩 起 创 意面 料 与裁 剪,独 树一 帜的西 装成 为了绅士们 最 新 的 衣 橱必 备 品。“ 西 装 仍然是 一 个男人 最卓 越 的 ‘制服’,但 新 的优 雅 规 则允许人们 进行 新 的演绎。”Corneliani的时尚总监 Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte先 生说 道;本 季度,他用各 种各样 的 方 式 玩 转 丝绸。 各大品牌 纷 纷 针对面 料和面 料 处 理 展 开实 验,以成 衣 染 色夹克而 著 称的Boglioli也不例 外。“ 我们 研发了一 种 特 殊 的成 衣 染 色 方 法,从 而 改良了 Boglioli赖以成 名的这 道 工 序。”助 理 买 手 Camille Hopp解 释 道,“这 道 工 序能创造 出索 拉 罗(solaro)的 效 果。”(索 拉 罗面 料可呈现 出 微 妙的荧 光 虹 彩。)

优 雅是 意 大 利式西 装 剪 裁的 核心,而 在 此 基 础 上,仍然 有 充分的实 验 空间。Isaia公司首 席执 行官Gianluca Isaia如此 解 释 其 理 念:“ 我们 从世界 各地 汲取灵 感,融 入可以反 映 摩登绅士 着 装的特定 裁 剪与廓 形,同时决不 抛弃 我们 的 特 色。” 这 场面 料 与裁 剪的游 戏 之 所以行 得通,要 归 功 于 许 多规 模 更大的意 大 利时装品牌 的商业 模 式,这其中就包括Brunello Cucinelli和 Loro Piana。这 些品牌 是 垂 直一 体 化的:换 句话 说, 从原 材料的生 产到成 衣 最 后的细 节,他们 把 控 着 制造流 程的每一 个 阶段。举 个例 子,Ermenegildo Zegna创立之初名为Lanificio Zegna,只是 位于意 大 利比耶 拉(Biella)附近 的 一间羊 毛 作 坊;多年过去,该品牌逐渐 扩展 经 营 范围,如 今已涵 盖 从原 材料 到成 衣 和定制单 品等 各种 类 别。该 公司集 所有业务 于 一 体,因 此 得以轻松 获 取 最优 质的 材料以 及充 足的研发 空间。 需 求是 引导改变的关 键因素 一。Tramonte 先 生着重讲 述了典 型的西 装 顾客多年来的变化 历 程:“ 在 过去的 20年里,男士服 装领域 的许 多 东西都 改变了。今 天,你已 经 无法再以年 龄段作 为 参考标准;男士时尚关 乎社会 环 境,也 关 乎 文化。此 外,男人们 的习惯也 改变了,每 个人都 想在 大部 分场 合里穿 得 休闲些。” 相比前几 代 人,当今男士 和 衣 橱 的关系大 不一样,各 家品牌 都 不 得不 对这一事 实做 出妥 协;于 是 乎,旅行、科 技和现代 生活方 式 如 今 都 成 为了给男士 设 计服 装时必 须考虑的因素。作 为回应,Isaia的春夏季系列就 主 打无需熨 烫 的 泡泡 纱 夹克。这一 设 计 是在Gianluca Isaia本人 的工作日程中孕育的,它也 反 映了许 多同行的 情况。“ 我 基 本上 是 住 在飞 机 上 的,所以我 旅行 时带的和穿 的一定 要 符 合 我 的 ‘空中飞 人’生活 方 式。”他 解 释 道,“基于 这 层考虑,泡泡 纱 是 一 种 很棒的面 料。2019年春夏季,我们 推出了一 款 泡泡 纱 无尾 礼 服,有时候 我也会用它 搭配一 件 T恤,穿出更 加休闲的感觉。” Aquaspider是该品牌另一 种 备 受 青 睐 的 旅 行面 料。“这 些面 料不 仅非常适合出行,而且 防 水性极佳,所以如果有人不小 心 把饮 料泼 到了 你身上,液体会滚 动 滑 走,不 会打湿 衣 物。”Gianluca Isaia解 释 道。 设 计师 需要考虑 到现代日常生活 的 方 方面 面,Canali就 成 功将这诸 多需 求 纳入了该品牌 的Impeccabile 2. 0系列服 装中。这个系列包括西 装、大衣 和 衬 衫,均 选 用天然 富 有弹性 的透 气 面 料 打造,可 防皱、防水、防 污 渍。 随 着生活方 式日益与各种 数码产品联 系在


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Scan the QR code to subscribe to Global Blue’s official WeChat services. Receive the latest shopping and tax refund information. Track and manage your refund, and get online customer service and other tax refund services.

扫描二 维码 ,订 阅环 球 蓝 联 官 方微 信 。 接 收 最 新的购 物和 退税 信息 。 追 踪 和 管理 您 的 退 税 , 获取在 线客 服及 其他 退 税 服 务 。

一 起,各大品牌 也 纷 纷 开始 投 资 开发 新思 路。 今 年春夏季,Corneliani发布了一 个由两 款 外 套 和两 款手 袋 组 成 的Connected Style胶 囊 系列。 这 些 新品的内置口袋都 配 备了特 殊内嵌 技 术, 将 手 机 放 入其中即 可进行 无 线 充电。Tramonte 先 生 解 释 称,面 对 一 位见闻广博、家财万贯 的 环 球 旅行 者,像Connected Style这 样 的设 计才 足以吸引这位世俗绅士。“ 我们 的使命就 是 尝 试 用正确 的语言与他交谈,让他 看到我们 的产品 不断与时俱 进 的实证。卓越 品质 和优 雅 风 格 是 必不 可少的。”他说 道,“ 我们必 须向他讲 述一 个 真实的 故事,要能 说 服他 选 择 我们。今 天,我们 的要求 就 是 提 供 顾客自己的 衣 橱里并 没有 的东 西— —风 格 是 一方面,但 主要 得 考虑 到功 能。” 说 起 革 新 和改变,可持 续 性同样为 设 计师 们 提 供了一 个 创意的 框 架。举 例 而 言,Etro的 2019春夏季男士系列就 格 外注 重可持 续面 料, 选 用荨麻 和黄麻 等产自当地 的天然 纤维 打造, 以 植物染 料 染 色。不过,但行好事 的心愿并不 止于此,许 多服 装 公司都 在寻求更大 规 模 的变 革。 Zegna基 金会 秉 承 着四个 使命:保 护 环 境 和 文化资源、促 进 当地 社 区的可持 续 发 展、支 持 科 学 研究、为年 轻 人 提 供 教育机会。不 仅如 此,Zegna的作 坊至今仍然留在 比耶 拉,该 公司 还在 当地 的阿尔 卑 斯山区 启动了一 个 环 保 项 目,建 设了一座占地100平方公里 的Oasi Zegna 公园。Canali Onlus基 金会也 参 与了各种项目, globalblue.cn

涵 盖 医 疗 研究、健 康、社会救 助、就 业 和 教育 等多 个 领域。 虽然 伦 理 在 最 近 几 年才成 为时尚行业 的一 个重要 维 度,但许 多时装品牌 很早就 意 识 到了 解决 社会与环 境问题 的 重要 性:Ermenegildo Zegna和 Brunello Cucinelli等品牌多年来 都 在 坚 持 打造 符 合伦 理 的、可持 续 发 展 的产业 结 构, 也因而成 为了 理性时尚的真正先 锋。 虽然西 装 扎 根于 传 统,但 通 过 科 学 研究 和 突 破界限 的新技 术,西 装已 经 成 为了新思想的 一 块 画 布。这 样 的 创新 是 全 方位 思 考的一 部 分:各大品牌 积极 投 资有关面 料和 剪 裁的 前 沿 概 念,同时也 斥 资研发商业模 式,参 与大 规 模 的 社会、伦 理 或可持 续 发 展 项目。意 大 利的时 装 公司心系全 局,热 切地做 着正确 的事情,坚 定 地 将目光 投向未 来。

84: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球,尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购物区中的30多万家商店消费 时,环 球 蓝联购物 退 税 服 务(Global Blue Tax Free Shopping)为 您节省购物 开 销。 每 年 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用环 球 蓝联 (Global Blue)的购物 退 税 服务,何不加入他们 的 行列?您只需 在购物时留意 环 球 蓝联 (Global Blue)的蓝 星标 志,或 直 接问询商家是 否提 供环 球 蓝联(Global Blue)退 税 服 务,然 后 遵 循以下 简单 的退 税流 程即 可: 1. 购物 消费 无论 您 在哪里 购物,请向商家索要 环 球 蓝联 退 税 表格 (Global Blue Tax Free Form)。 2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前,请 前往 海 关柜台,请海 关 工 作人员在 退 税 表格上 盖章,然 后再到环 球 蓝联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方式: taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费 €154.95即 可申请 退 税,能 够 节省高达 15.5%的商品购买 价。请注 意:您 收 到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减去环 球 蓝联 的手 续费。如果您 选 择 现 金 退 税,部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为单位 收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。


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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: CREAM OF THE CATWALKS ГЛАВНОЕ НА ПОДИУМАХ

На Неделе моды в Милане итальянские дизайнеры показали собственное прочтение ключевых трендов сезона. Вирджини Моравски выбрала самое интересное из коллекций весна-лето 2019 Итальянские дизайнеры славятся врожденным чувством вкуса, фантазией и элегантностью. В коллекциях весна-лето 2019, представленных на Миланской неделе моды, они отразили основные тренды сезона, но реализовали их по-своему. Многие бренды отдали предпочтение нейтральным оттенкам. Max Mara уже не одно десятилетие работает с верблюжьим цветом, поэтому неудивительно, что он стал основным акцентом коллекции. Только в этот раз бренд предложил использовать его для всего комплекта одежды: палитра этого сезона охватывала спектр от бежевого и верблюжьего до глубокого коричневого. Fendi представил в нейтральных оттенках брюки сафари и нежные платья и юбки. А в коллекции Salvatore Ferragamo в нюд окрашены костюмы и практичные вещи, такие как комбинезоны и пончо. Обилие нейтральных оттенков вовсе не означает, что бренды постеснялись использовать цвет. На подиуме можно было наблюдать и эффект калейдоскопа: например, Versace столкнул самые разные принты и узоры. Другие бренды предпочли еще более яркий эффект тай-дай, или «вываренного» окрашивания: такими стали платья-футболки от No21, самая заметная сумка этого сезона от Prada и деним от MSGM. Но если нужно выбрать один цвет и посвятить ему весь сезон, то это должен быть желтый. Он не только идеально подходит для лета, но и представлен во всех мыслимых вариантах: необычный оттенок шартрез у Versace, насыщенный ярко-желтый у globalblue.ru

Max Mara, более приглушенные охра и горчица у Agnona и нежнейшие шифоновые ноты у Alberta Ferretti. Фитнес остается важной темой уже несколько сезонов, и бренды продолжают включать спортивную одежду в коллекции высокой моды. В этот раз новый акцент задала одежда для плавания. Etro вдохновился тихоокеанским побережьем до такой степени, что выпустил на подиум профессиональных серферов. Sportmax также работал с темой серфинга и представил рашгарды с блестками, а заодно и вязаные купальникибикини в сочетании с пиджаками. Летние комплекты Moschino, как и всегда, отличаются свойственной этому бренду иронией, выраженной в забавном принте. Если пляжи и бассейны вас интересуют меньше, то можно обратить внимание на шорты. В коллекции бренда Jil Sander они помогают изучить возможности униформы, особенно в связи со спортом и профессиональной экипировкой. Креативный директор Roberto Cavalli Пол Сарридж обратился к силе и энергии тела, и в его коллекции также появились велосипедные шорты. Практически все дизайнеры сошлись в рафинированном подходе к одежде для активного отдыха, и это воспринимается как прославление тела и его возможностей. Похоже, бренды теряют интерес к уличному стилю, который раньше был едва ли не в каждой коллекции. Теперь особое внимание уделяется подчеркнутой женственности: длинные платья, элегантные силуэты и красивая отделка – это только некоторые приемы, к которым прибегают дизайнеры в этом сезоне. Основой коллекции Marni стали самые разные платья, от моделей в греческом стиле до силуэтов из 1950х. Платья Moschino напоминают о дерзком стиле 1980-х. А Gucci предложил покупательницам соблазнительное разнообразие декора: от цветочных принтов до металлизированных тканей и бахромы. Вся коллекция Max Mara отличалась элегантностью высшей пробы:

Итальянские бренды умеют сочетать изысканность и шарм с непередаваемым жизнелюбием


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цветовая палитра, построенная вокруг отдельных оттенков, усилила изысканность силуэтов. MSGM и Prada предложили обыграть женственность с помощью бантов, крупных блесток и перьев. В последние несколько сезонов дизайнеры уделяют много внимания рукавам, и в полную силу это проявилось в коллекциях весналето 2019. Max Mara, Versace, MSGM и многие другие – практически каждый бренд показал асимметричные конструкции, где у платья только один рукав или лямка. Целую неделю перед Парижской неделей моды все обсуждали окончание эпохи Фиби Фило в Celine. Но Миланская неделя моды оказалась богата на роскошный минимализм и предложила новые альтернативы. Люк и Люси Мейер, дуэт креативных директоров Jil Sander, продолжают развивать лаконичную эстетику и фокусируются на поиске идеальной деловой одежды со структурными и угловатыми формами. Саймон Холлоуэй, креативный директор бренда Agnona, пристально изучил манеру одеваться американской художницы Джоан Джонас. В новой коллекции он решил поиграть с объемами простых по структуре и вытянутых моделей: его тренчи, туники, платья, пончо можно носить в несколько слоев, можно подпоясывать или надевать свободно. В итоге преобладающей эмоцией коллекции оказалась уравновешенная невозмутимость. Salvatore Ferragamo также склоняется к минимализму, поэтому в коллекции весна-лето 2019 работал с кроем. В итоге в ней соседствуют простые костюмы, изысканные кожаные комплекты и платья, создающие эффект зрелости и элегантности. Осталось завершить образ главными аксессуарами Миланской недели моды: например, поясной сумкой Fendi, сумкой Prada с эффектом тай-дай и панамой Sportmax. Важный тренд этого сезона – плетеные сумки и туфли: особого внимания достойны сумки-корзины Alberta Ferretti и плетеная обувь Salvatore Ferragamo, вдохновленная историческим наследием бренда. Миланская Неделя моды вновь подтвердила: итальянские бренды умеют сочетать изысканность и шарм с непередаваемым жизнелюбием. И устоять globalblue.ru

перед этим просто невозможно.

54: THE CUTTING EDGE НА ПИКЕ ФОРМЫ Джинджер Роуз Кларк рассказывает об итальянских брендах, которые расширяют границы стиля и технических возможностей, а также берутся за решение социальных и этических вопросов Костюмы с изюминкой уверенно вошли в гардеробы джентльменов, поскольку в коллекциях весна-лето 2019 преобладают неожиданные ткани и необычный крой. «Костюм остается «униформой» современного мужчины. Однако новые правила элегантности диктуют новые подходы к нему», – утверждает директор по стилю марки Corneliani Стефано Гаудиосо Трамонте, который в этом сезоне много работает с шелком. Интерес к экспериментам с тканями проявляет бренд Boglioli: его излюбленный прием – окрашивание пиджаков после пошива. Камилль Хопп, ассистирующий мерчендайзер, раскрывает секрет переливающегося эффекта: «Boglioli давно разрабатывает это направление. Окрашивание придает ткани градиентный оттенок и легкое сияние». Итальянский костюм от любого другого отличает неизменная элегантность. Но даже такие строгие рамки все равно оставляют немало места для экспериментов. В этом уверен Джанлука Исайя, исполнительный директор Isaia: «Мы находим вдохновение в самых разных частях света. Из всего многообразия мы отбираем те формы и силуэты, которые отражают предпочтения современного джентльмена в одежде. И, конечно, не забываем о собственной идентичности». Для многих крупных брендов, таких как Brunello Cucinelli и Loro Piana, постоянный поиск новых тканей и идей подкрепляется бизнес-моделью. А именно – вертикальной интеграцией: эти компании контролируют все стадии производства: от исходных материалов до фурнитуры и отделки. Бренд Ermenegildo Zegna,


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например, начинал как ткацкая фабрика Lanificio Zegna рядом с итальянским городом Биелла. За прошедшие годы компания постепенно расширялась и, наконец, вобрала в себя все – от тканей до готовых коллекций и пошива на заказ. Таким образом, у Ermenegildo Zegna всегда под рукой лучшие материалы и производственные мощности, а значит, и бесконечные возможности для дальнейших экспериментов и развития. Запрос на перемены во многом исходит от покупателей. По словам Трамонте, сформировался новый образ заказчика костюма: «В последние 20 лет мужская мода очень изменилась. Сегодня значение имеет не возраст, а социальная среда и культура. Более того, изменились и привычки мужчин. В большинстве случаев они предпочитают более расслабленный и повседневный вариант». Брендам пришлось принять, что теперь мужчины относятся к своему гардеробу не так, как предыдущие поколения. Современный костюм должен учитывать постоянные разъезды, новые технологии и активный образ жизни. Чтобы ответить на этот запрос, бренд Isaia включил в коллекцию весна-лето пиджаки из летней ткани сирсакер, которую не нужно гладить. Джанлука Исайя ориентировался на собственный график, который схож с ритмом жизни его клиентов: «Я практически живу в самолете. Все, с чем я путешествую и что я ношу, должно вписываться в этот распорядок. Сирсакер отлично подходит для этих целей. В коллекции весна-лето 2019 у нас есть смокинг из сирсакера, я иногда ношу его с футболкой, чтобы получился менее официальный образ». На частые поездки ориентирована и ткань Aquaspider: «Она не только не мнется, но и устойчива к жидкостям. Если на вас что-нибудь прольют, то жидкость просто стекает, а сам пиджак остается сухим», – уточняет Джанлука Исайя. Костюм должен учитывать особенности повседневной жизни современного мужчины. И бренд Canali блестяще справляется с этим: в частности, костюмы, пальто и рубашки из линии Impeccabile 2.0 сделаны из дышащей ткани с естественным стретчем, устойчивой к складкам, промоканию и пятнам. Мы все крепче привязываемся к нашим цифровым устройствам, а бренды

обнаруживают в этом новые возможности. К сезону весна-лето Corneliani представил капсульную коллекцию Connected Style, в которую вошли два предмета верхней одежды и две сумки. Внутренние карманы этих вещей оснащены встроенным устройством, которое заряжает мобильный телефон обладателя беспроводным способом. Трамонте считает, что такие проекты, как Connected Style, – это лучший способ привлечь внимание современных и много путешествующих джентльменов: «Наша задача – обратиться к ним на понятном языке и делом доказать, что наш продукт развивается. Качество и элегантность сохраняются априори. Мы должны рассказать им нашу настоящую историю, которая поможет сделать правильный выбор. От нас требуется предложить чтото такое, чего нет в шкафу потенциального покупателя – в плане стиля и, что еще важнее, в плане функциональности». Экологическая ответственность также задает рамки для инновационного подхода. Например, Etro в коллекции весна-лето 2019 уделяет много внимания экологичности тканей: они производятся локально с использованием натуральных волокон крапивы и джута, а также красителей растительного происхождения. Но хорошие дела этим не ограничиваются: многие бренды меняют мир к лучшему в большем масштабе. Фонд Fondazione Zegna работает в четырех направлениях: сохранение природных и культурных ресурсов, поддержка экологичного развития в местных сообществах, поддержка научных исследований и образования для молодых людей. Еще один проект этого бренда – общественный парк Oasi Zegna площадью 100 км2 у подножия Альп в Биелле, где расположены фабрики Zegna. Фонд Fondazione Canali Onlus участвует в проектах, посвященных медицинским исследованиям, здравоохранению, социальной помощи, трудовой занятости и образованию. Модная индустрия в целом заинтересовалась этическими проблемами сравнительно недавно, и пионерами осознанной моды стали именно эксклюзивные бренды. Например, Ermenegildo Zegna и Brunello Cucinelli уже много лет реализуют проекты, нацеленные на решение социальных и экологических вопросов.


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Несмотря на склонность к классике и традициям, мужской костюм стал проводником новых идей. Бренды в равной мере вкладываются в современные ткани и крой, в развитие бизнес-модели и крупные социальные и экологические проекты. Итальянские модные дома стремятся сеять добро во всем, что делают, и уверенно прокладывают себе путь в светлое будущее.

84: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. globalblue.ru | globalblue.com

日本 語

44: CREAM OF THE CATWALK

キャットウォークに光る注目 のブランド ミラノ・ファッションウィークでは、今シ ーズンのトレンドをイタリアのデザイナ ー独特の解釈で 表現した素晴らしい作 品が披露された。ヴァージーニー・モラ ウスキーが2019年春夏コレクションの ハイライトをお届けする。 イタリアのデザイナーは豊かな想像力と華麗さ、 粋なスタイルで有名だ。2019年春夏も、ミラノ・フ ァッションウィークに出展したレーベルが今シー ズンのキートレンドを取り入れた魅力満載の作品 を披露した。 ミラノ・ファッションウィークでは、ヌードト ーンをふんだんに使った装いが出展ブランドに共 通する特徴だった。マックスマーラは数十年前か らキャメルカラーを好んで使っており、この春夏 のトーントレンドもキャメル中心だったのは何の 不思議もない。頭から爪先まで、ベージュからキ ャメル、そして深みのある茶へと拡がりのあるカ ラーパレットを用いていた。フェンディでは、フェ ミニンなドレスやスカートはもちろん、サファリパ ンツにもヌードトーンを使っていた。サルヴァトー レ・フェラガモは、テーラリングだけでなくダンガ リーやポンチョといった実用的なアイテムにもヌ ードを使用している。 このように、キャットウォークで繰り返し見ら れたカラースキームはニュートラルなヌードだっ たが、各ブランドが控えめな色使いに終始してい たわけではない。ヴェルサーチなど一部のブラン ドは、一つの作品内に様々なプリントやパターン を使い、互いに主張しあうような万華鏡 効果を狙 った。ややエッジーな絞り染めを使ったブランド もある。No21(ヌメロ ヴェントゥーノ)ではTシ ャツドレス、プラダでは今シーズンの代表作とい えるバッグ、MSGMではデニムに使っている。た だ、今年の春夏は一色しか新調できないという向 きには、黄色がお薦めだ。夏にピッタリの黄色 は、様々な色調が出ていた。ヴェルサーチでは鮮 やかなシャルトリューズ、マックスマーラはバンブ ルビー、アニオナではおとなしめのオーカーやマ


スタード、アルベルタ・フェレッティは淡いシフォ ンといった具合だ。 一方、フィットネスはここ数シーズンの中心テ ーマだったが、各ブランドは今シーズンのハイフ ァッションコレクションにアクティブウェアを組み 入れていた。中でもスイムウェアは出色だった。 エトロは太平洋岸からインスピレーションを得 て、プロサーファーをモデルに起用するこだわり よう。スポーツマックスも波をイメージし、シーク インを施したラッシュガードやクロシェ編みのビ キニの上にテーラードジャケットを合わせた装い を登場させた。モスキーノのスイムスーツは、いか にも同ブランドらしい遊び心あふれるデザインが 特徴的だった。 上:モスキーノ2019年春夏コレクション

ビーチやプールはどうも苦手という人には、サ イクリングパンツがいいかもしれない。ジル・サン ダーのパンツは、ユニフォームのコンセプトとス ポーツやパフォーマンスとの関係を追求した作品 群の一環として披露された。ロベルト・カヴァリ ではクリエイティブディレクターのポール・サリッ ジが、同じくサイクリングパンツを目玉とするコレ クションで肉体のパワーとエネルギーという概念 に触れた。デザイナーは全般に、肉体賛美と思わ れる言及をするなど洗練されたアクティブウェア を追求していた。 前回はあちこちで見られたストリートウェア から離れて、各ブランドがフェミニンな装いに一 斉に回帰しているのも今シーズンの特徴だ。ロン グドレスやエレガントなシルエット、美しいディテ ールなどは、2019年春夏コレクションで各ブラン ドが採用したデザイン要素のほんの一部だ。マル ニのコレクションでは、ギリシャ風から1950年代 風までドレスが中心を成していたし、モスキーノの ドレスは大胆な80年代の美学がテーマ。グッチ は、花柄プリントからメタリックな生地、裾飾りと 幅広い仕上げを施したドレスを繰り出し、目移り してしまうほどだった。マックスマーラではコレク ション全体が素晴らしくエレガントで、同系色の カラースキームがシックなシルエットを際立たせ ていた。MSGMとプラダでは、リボン付きのデザ インや特大シークインや羽根でできたドレスなど 遊び心のある作品がいくつか披露されている。 ここ2シーズンほど、袖に焦点を当てたデザイ ンが多く見られたが、2019年春夏の美しいドレ スの数々でその傾向が本 格 化した。袖はアシメト リーの形、つまり片袖や片ストラップが中心だ。マ ックスマーラ、ヴェルサーチ、MSGMをはじめ、 片袖デザインのバリエーションを披露したブラン ドは多い。 一週間ほど後に開催されるパリ・ファッショ ンウィークを最後にフィービー・ファイロがセリー ヌを去ることがニュースになったが、ミラノ・ファ ッションウィークは、シックでミニマリスト的な装 いを追求する他の多くのデザイナーが基盤を築 く場となった。ジル・サンダーでクリエイティブデ ィレクターを務めるルーク・メイヤーとルーシー・ メイヤーが選んだのは、構造的な四角い形のユ ニフォームというアイデアを中心とした無駄を削 ぎ落とした美学だ。アニオナのサイモン・ホロウ ェイは芸術家ジョーン・ジョナスのワードローブ にヒントを得て、シンプルで長いシルエットを作り つつボリュームで遊んで見せた。トレンチコート やチュニック、ドレス、ポンチョを重ね、ベルトで 締めたりベルト無しでルースに着たりと、落ち着

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

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きの中にも自由さが漂うコレクションだった。サ ルヴァトーレ・フェラガモも、カット重視のミニマ リストシックに近いラインを打ち出し、シンプルな テーラリングアイテム、滑らかなレザーのツーピー ス、ドレスを大人っぽくエレガントなコレクション にまとめた。 2019年春夏の装いは、ミラノ・ファッションウ ィークの主だったアクセサリーで仕上げよう。例 えば、フェンディのベルトバッグ、プラダの絞り染 めバッグ、スポーツマックスのバケットハットな ど。あるいは、編み込みのバッグや靴も今シーズ ンの重要なトレンドだ。アルベルタ・フェレッティ のバスケットバッグや、ブランドの記録資料にあ ったデザインをヒントにしたサルヴァトーレ・フェ ラガモの編み込みフットウェアも、今シーズンの ハイライトだ。 洗練された魅力を湛えつつ活力を堂々と見 せつけるイタリアンスタイルが人を魅了し続ける ことは、ミラノ・ファッションウィークで繰り返し 証明されている。

50: THE CUTTING EDGE

最 先 端をいくイタリアンテー ラリング イタリアのトップテイラーがスタイルはも ちろん技術革新でも限界を押し広げ、さ らに社会問題や倫理的問題にも取り組 んでいる。ジンジャー・ローズ・クラーク がレポートする。 ひねりの効いたテーラリング、それこそが紳士のワ ードローブに欠かせない新しい要素であること を、革新的な生地やカットが満載の2019年春夏コ レクションが魅力いっぱいに見せてくれている。 「 スーツはいつの時代もできる男のユニフォーム。た だ、エレガンスの尺度が新たになり、スーツも新し い解釈が可能になっています」と、今シーズンのコ レクションでシルクを様々に駆使したステファノ・ ガウディオーソ・トラモンテのスタイルディレクタ ー、コルネリアーニはいう。 生地や生地加工で冒険したブランドの一つ が、製品染めのジャケットで知られるボリオリだ。 「ボリオリお馴染みの加工過程をさらに進化させ た特別な製品染めプロセスを開発しました」という のは、アシスタントマーチャンダイザーのカミー ル・ホップ。 「このプロセスによって玉虫色の光沢 globalblue.com

(ソラーロ)が生まれます。」 (ソラーロ生地はう っすらと玉虫色に光る仕上げになっている。) イタリアンテーラリングを象徴するエレガンス を保ちながらでも、実験の余地は大いにある。イ ザイアのCEOジャンルカ・イザイアが、自社のアプ ローチを説明してくれた。 「ブランドアイデンティテ ィはしっかり守りつつ、世界中からインスピレーシ ョンを集め、現代男性の着方を反映した特定のカ ットやシルエットを取り入れています。」 こうして生地やカットで冒険できるのは、ブル ネロ・クチネリやロロ・ピアーナといったイタリアの テーラリングブランド大手の多くが用いているビ ジネスモデルのおかげだ。それは垂直統合。素材 の生産から完成品の仕上げのディテールまで、プ ロセスの全段階をコントロールする形だ。例えば、 エルメネジルド・ゼニアはイタリアのビエラ近郊に あるウール工場ラニフィーチョ・ゼニアが出発点だ が、何年もかけて徐々に拡大し、その事業は今や 素材から既製服、誂え服まであらゆる分野にわた っている。全てが傘下にあることで最高級素材の 入手がたやすいだけでなく、研究開発も広範囲で 行える。 変革を推し進める背景にあるのが需要だ。テ ーラリングの典型的な客層が時を経てどう変わっ てきたかをトラモンテは力説する。 「ここ20年でメ ンズファッションは大きく変わりました。今はこれ といった年代別特徴がなくなり、むしろ社会的な 環境や文化が参照点になっています。さらに男性 の装い傾向も変わり、たいていの場面で比較的カ ジュアルなものが好まれています。」 各ブランドは現代男性のワードローブとの付 き合い方が先世代と違うことに対応せざるをえな くなり、紳士用スーツのデザインにおいても、旅行 やテクノロジー、現代的ライフスタイルが考慮すべ き要素になっているという。そうした背景の下、イ ザイアは春夏コレクションの目玉にアイロンがけ不 要のシアサッカーをもってきた。これはジャンル カ・イザイア自身の多忙な生活から生まれたスタ イルだ。同年代の多くの人と同様に、彼は「飛行 機が我が家のようなもの。だから、旅行鞄に詰め るものも着るものも、ジェットセッターのライフスタ イルにふさわしいものでなければならない」のだと いう。 「シアサッカーはこの点とても優れた生地な んです。2019年春夏向けにシアサッカーのタキシ ードを作りました。僕は、さらにリラックスした雰 囲気を出すためにTシャツを中に着る時もあるん ですよ。」 もう一つ旅行着として人気のある同ブランドの 生地がアクアスパイダー。 「この生地は旅行着に 適するだけでなく、撥水性があるのが特徴です。


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誰かに飲み物をこぼされても液体が球状になって 落ちるので、服が濡れることはありません」とジャ ンルカ・イザイア。 現代日常生活のあらゆる面を考慮する必要が ある今、カナーリは「インペカブル2.0」シリーズで 多くの必須要件を盛り込むのに成功している。こ のシリーズにはスーツ、コート、シャツがあるが、ど れも通気性が高く自然な伸縮性を持ち、シワにな らず水や汚れに強い生地でできている。 一方、デジタル製品なしにライフスタイルを語 れなくなっている現代、各ブランドも新たな可能 性を模索している。コルネリアーニは春夏向けに「 コネクテッド・スタイル」カプセルコレクションを発 表した。アウターウェア2種とバッグ2種のコレクシ ョンで、特殊技術を内蔵した内ポケットで携帯電 話のワイアレス充電が可能というものだ。情報通 で裕福で世界中を飛び回っている人を想定した「 コネクテッド・スタイル」のようなデザインこそが世 知にたけた紳士の注意を引くのだと、トラモンテは いう。 「当社の使命は、そうした紳士にふさわしい 言葉で当社商品の進化の証を示すこと。高品質と エレガンスは言うまでもありません。当社の商品 を納得して選んでいただくには、真実のストーリー を語る必要があります。今必要なのは、スタイルは もちろん主に機能面でまだ持っていらっしゃらな いものを提供することです。」 革新や変革では、サステナビリティも枠組み となる。例えば、エトロの2019年春夏メンズコレク ションは、ネトル(西洋イラクサ)やジュート(黄 麻)といった天然繊維に植物性染料を用いて地元 で作ったサステナブルな生地を中心にしている。 善き行いをしようとする気持ちはエトロに限らず、 多くのテーラリング会社が大規模な変革を始めて いる。 ゼニア財団は「環境資源と文化資源の保全」 、 「地域社会における持続可能な開発の促進」、 「科学研究の支援」、 「若者の教育提供」の4つ を使命とする。さらに、ビエラアルプス地方に100 平方キロにわたる「オアジ ゼニア」という公園も持 っている。ゼニアの紡績工場が今もあるこの地域 における環境プロジェクトとして、同ブランドが創 設したものだ。一方、カナーリ・オヌルス財団は医 学研究、ヘルスケア、社会的支援、雇用、教育とい った分野のプロジェクトに関与している。 ファッション業界で倫理が重視されるように なったのはごく最近のことだが、テーラリングブラ ンドは社会問題や環境問題に取り組む重要性を 悟るのが早かった。エルメネジルド・ゼニアやブル ネロ・クチネリといったブランドでは倫理やサステ ナビリティを配慮した運営体制を何年も前からと globalblue.com

っており、コンシャス・ファッションの真のパイオニ アだ。 スーツづくりは伝統に根ざしつつ、新たなアイ デアや徹底したリサーチ、限界を押し広げるテク ノロジーが展開される舞台にもなっている。こうし た革新はホリスティックアプローチの一環だ。ブラ ンド各社は、生地やカットに関する先進のアイデ アに投資すると同時に、ビジネスモデルの開発や 社会的、倫理的、サステナビリティ関連の大規模 プロジェクトにも投資している。イタリアのテーラ リング会社はみな善行を心がけ、未来をしっかり と見据えているのだ。

84: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

海 外で のお買い物が免 税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街 にある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得 になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブル ーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用くださ い。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を 探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グロー バル・ブルー?」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のス テップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類(タックスフリー・フォーム)を受け取ってく ださい。 2. 還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルー の還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最 高15.5%の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い 戻し額は、付加価値税(VAT)合計から事務手数 料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承 ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しを ご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類 ごとに課されます。


RELAX. REFRESH. REFUND. Our Global Blue Lounges are the perfect places to relax during your shopping trip. Situated in the most fashionable areas of the world’s shopping capitals, the invitation only lounges are a haven for Tax Free Shopping.

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SOUVENIR

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PHOTO: VINCENZO PATRUNO

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