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MILAN | 米兰 | МИЛАН | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2017

Page 64 CULTURE CLUBS: discover the city’s world-leading fashion and design spaces


The Spirit of Travel


louisvuitton.com


Me and my Paul&Shark.


Tom Strangwick producer

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 16


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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国

Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul

Welcome to Milan

Italy

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this world-renowned centre of style and design. Milan has much to offer, as our guide on page 102 reveals. Readers who are interested in the latest from Italian fashion labels will enjoy our feature on page 74, and in this issue we also explore some of the city’s best restaurants. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Milan. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Lake Saimaa

Japan

Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris 巴黎

Portugal Prague Rome

Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Emma Cheevers /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue

Чехия @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

GlobalBlue环球蓝联

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@shopcontent

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Singapore


Maurizio Cattelan in MILANO - Via Monte Napoleone, 6 - Ph. +39 02 76280508 — La Rinscente Piazza Duomo, 3 - Ph +39 02 72094547 shop at santonishoes.com


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CONTRIBUTORS

Joanna McGinn As well as writing, Joanna McGinn is a lecturer in fashion journalism and cultural history. For SHOP Milan this season she has researched the city’s fashion and design spaces for our cover feature In The Know. globalblue.com

Hannah Lewis SHOP’s features editor Hannah Lewis read English literature and language at the University of Oxford before studying for an MA at the London College of Fashion. She has previously produced her own magazine in London.

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion writer, and also works as a consultant for luxury companies. She has an MA from Central Saint Martins in London and has used her fashion expertise to report on the trends to look out for in Milan this season.

ILLUSTRATION: MATTEO BERTON; PHOTO: (MIDDLE) KATIE WILSON ELL

Matteo Berton Illustrator Matteo Berton created the cover illustration for this season’s edition of SHOP Milan. His colourful, architecturally focused artwork made him the perfect choice. Matteo has created a hub depicting some of Milan’s best design museums and spaces, in relation to our cover feature (see page 64). His previous clients include the New York Times, Liberty London and Moleskine. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.


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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Matteo Berton Contributors Beth Druce, Maria Kirchen-Hill, Joanna McGinn Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion assistant Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworker Milkha Lala Artworker Samantha Junak Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Natalie Schroeter AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Sales key account manager Stefano Cardinale Sales account manager Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Sabrina Schiavone, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Diana Martin, Sonia Mura, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue


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CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE

PRODUCTS 24

26

40

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Milan’s best dressed this season

NEWS 44

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Milan

74

46

60

News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with Giuseppe Santoni at Santoni on Via Montenapoleone

FEATURES 64

Cover story:

In The Know For cultural spaces with fashion and design at their core, nowhere is better than Milan. Joanna McGinn selects the places to seek out

Above (from left): interior of Casadei’s restyled flagship store; Fendi spring/summer 2017

74

82

Back To The Future Italy’s leading fashion houses are looking to past decades to create today’s collections. Beth Druce reports Lasting Style Luisa Spagnoli has been creating beautiful Italian-made clothing for more than 85 years. Hannah Lewis finds out about this thriving label

PHOTO: (RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

44


MIRANDA KERR LOS ANGELES, SEPTEMBER 2016 MARELLA.COM MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4


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CONTENTS

PAGE

EXPERIENCE

ESSENTIALS

90

130 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

96

Table Talk Milan’s modern restaurants offer dishes which are clever, inventive and delicious. Maria Kirchen-Hill samples some of the best Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

GUIDE

90

TRANSLATIONS 132 美文翻译 137 Русский Перевод 142 日本語翻訳

SOUVENIR 146 The essential item to bring home

102 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE... Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru globalblue.cn 每日更 新精品购物信息, 分享海外省钱秘笈 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent

Above: inside the stunning Carlo e Camilla restaurant

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): CHICO DE LUIGI; MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com


Milano

corso Vittorio Emanuele

iblues.it


MAKING WAVES The Mermaid collection by Italian jeweller Cristina Ortiz has been inspired by real and fictional sea creatures. This stunning pair of earrings, made with 18-carat rose gold and featuring four-carat ruby droplets, look like delicate star fish. Ortiz is known for

her bold and daring high jewellery creations which often replicate mythical creatures encrusted in gold, diamonds and other precious stones. Born in Spain and living in Italy, Ortiz was previously creative director at Prada, Brioni and Lanvin. She launched her own line in 2013 with a focus on intricate and feminine statement

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

pieces. To her, jewellery is not an accessory, but an extension of our identity, and her creations are certainly one of a kind. fm Cristina Ortiz earrings, â‚Ź14,375, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, cristinaortiz.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 122

PHOTO: STUDIO GASTL DI MICHELE GASTL & C. S.A.S.

CH ECK OUT


26 | P R O D U C T S

BON VOYAGE

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Colour clash your accessories to be on trend when travelling this season 1 4

5

1. Frends headphones, €219, Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20100 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, frends.com

3. Canon camera, from €309.99, New Old Camera, Via Rovello 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3658 9216, canon.it

2. Moleskine Smart Writing set, €229, Moleskine, Corso Buenos Aires 22, 20129 Milan, +39 02 2952 9566, moleskine.com

4. BeoPlay A1 speaker, €249, Bang & Olufsen, Corso Garibaldi 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4193, beoplay.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Serapian suitcase, €1,540, Serapian, Via della Spiga 42, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4451, serapian.com

PHOTOS: (4) B&O PLAY 2016/JEPPE SØRENSEN; (5) ANDREA ERDNA BARLETTA

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UN CERTO MONDO CAMMINA ROSSETTI. FRATELLIROSSETTI.COM


28 | P R O D U C T S

STRONG STYLE Create a biker-chic look with these leather pieces, and add sparkle with a bronze lipstick and the latest accessories

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1. Moncler sunglasses, €350, Moncler, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 1316, moncler.com

3. Marni earrings, €530, Marni, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7327, marni.com

2. Diesel jumper, €180, Diesel, Piazza San Babila 1-3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7639 6762, diesel.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

4. Givenchy bag, price on request, Givenchy, Via Sant’Andrea 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7862 3710, givenchy.com


S H O P | 29

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PHOTOS: (7) MATHEW ZUCKER; (9) LOUIS BLANCARD/WESTIMAGE

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5. Buccellati ring, €7,700, Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com

7. Aedes de Venustas Cierge de Lune eau de parfum, 100ml, €210, Profumo, Via Brera 6, 20121 Milan, +39 7202 3334, aedes-parfums.com

9. Roger Vivier sandals, €590, Roger Vivier, Via Sant’Andrea 17, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 5614, rogervivier.com

6. Mango trousers, €49.99, Mango, Galleria del Corso 2, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7602 5654, mango.com

8. Swarovski Crystaldust cuff, €69, Swarovski, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 4386, swarovski.com

10. Chanel lipstick, €34, Chanel, Via Sant’Andrea 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7788 6999, chanel.com

globalblue.com


30 | P R O D U C T S

WALK ON AIR Comfort meets contemporary style with this selection of cross-strapped footwear

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1. Nicholas Kirkwood sandals, €725, No30 Milano, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7377, nicholaskirkwood.com

3. Jil Sander sandals, €295 each pair, Jil Sander, Via Pietro Verri 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 2991, jilsander.com

2. Prada sandals, €550, Prada, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 63-65, 20121 Milan, +39 02 876979, prada.com

4. Hugo Boss sandals, €450, Hugo Boss, Piazza Gae Aulenti 6, 20154 Milan, +39 02 6347 0136, boss.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Chloé Wedge sandals, €495, Chloé, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3035 7401, chloe.com


32 | P R O D U C T S

BE BOLD

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Combine tropical prints with brightly coloured clothing and accessories

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1. & Other Stories top, €59, & Other Stories, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 1, 20122 Milan, +39 06 3283 2201, stories.com

3. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Celestia eau de toilette, 70ml, €130, Campomarzio 70, Via Brera 2A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 5164, franciskurkdjian.com

5. Escada skirt, €790, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com

2. Kartell by Paula Cademartori handbag, €298, Kartell, Via Filippo Turati (corner of Via Carlo Porta), 20121 Milan, +39 02 659 7916, paulacademartori.com

4. Max Mara sunglasses, €220, Max Mara, Piazza del Liberty 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8849, maxmara.com

6. AGL shoes, €255, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, agl.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

PHOTOS: (1) IBEYOSTUDIO; (6) GIANNI MAZZOTTA

6


34 | P R O D U C T S

EVER READY These sartorial staples will take you from day to night

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1. Corneliani blazer, €1,050, Corneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955, corneliani.com

3. Tod’s sunglasses, price on request, Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com

2. Fratelli Rosetti loafers, €610, Fratelli Rosetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirosetti.com

4. Canali tie, €120, Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365, canali.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Trussardi bag, €540, Trussardi, Piazza della Scala 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8068 8242, trussardi.com

PHOTO: (2) PAOLO MARCHESI

2


MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

C.so Vercelli, 35

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so Genova, 20 C.so XXII Marzo, 5

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)


36 | P R O D U C T S

BLACK AND GOLD Dark fabrics can be found throughout the collections this season: pair with embellished sandals and you’re ready to go

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1. JW Anderson dress, €1,050, So Milano, Piazza Risogimeto 8, 20129 Milan, +39 02 4549 7839, j-w-anderson.com

3. Elena Ghisellini Angel bag, price on request, Anna Ravazzoli, Corso Genova 16, 20123 Milan, +39 02 832 3088, elenaghisellini.com

2. Giuseppe Zanotti choker, €330, Giuseppe Zanotti, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 6808, giuseppezanottidesign.com

4. Aquazzura sandals, €895, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 886371, aquazzura.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Gucci Guilty perfume, 75ml, €102, Gucci, Via Montenapoleone 5-7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 771271, gucci.com

PHOTOS: (4) ALESSIO GRASSI; (5) GEORGIA REED

4


38 | P R O D U C T S

SUMMER GLOW Add fresh scents and a touch of rouge to sun-kissed skin 1

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1. Acqua di Parma Peonia Nobile bath gel, price on request, Acqua di Parma, Via Gesù 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3307, acquadiparma.com

3. Dolce & Gabbana blusher, from €45, Marionnaud, Corso Magenta 2, 20123 Milan, +39 02 805 3565, dolcegabbana.com

2. Kiko Invisible Touch face fixing powder, €12.90, Kiko, Via Dante 2, Piazza Cordusio, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8050 4199, kikocosmetics.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

4. Giorgio Armani lipstick, from €37, Douglas, Via Tommaso Grossi, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 4992, armanibeauty.it


40 | S T R E E T S T Y L E

Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio embraced Japanese style during Milan Fashion Week by wearing loosely tied silk kimonos, and accessorising with Marni and Prada

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE


S H O P | 41

globalblue.com


42 | S T R E E T S T Y L E

Statement trousers were championed by Sofie Valkiers and other fashionable women at Milan Fashion Week, complemented with bags from Bulgari and Gucci

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE


S H O P | 43

globalblue.com


44 | N E W S

SHOP WINDOW

MILAN MAKEOVER Following the success of its new store concept, which debuted in Rome, Casadei has restyled its flagship store in Milan. Architect Marco Costanzi was called upon to redesign the space, which features two brass-framed installations set on peach blossom marble platforms

where the brand’s superb selection of shoes is displayed. The layout is given structure through the use of Plexiglas and mirrors, while velvet elements – including elegant day beds in petroleum and dove-grey hues – add luxurious finishing touches. Take in the intimate atmosphere and

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

sophisticated surroundings while selecting your perfect Casadei footwear for the season. rre Casadei, Via Sant’Andrea 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8293, casadei.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112


Olivia Palermo maxandco.com

M IL A NO C or s o V i tto r io Em an u e l e


46 | N E W S

TREASURE CHEST Fornasetti, purveyor of intriguing interior design items, has recently opened a new store on Corso Venezia. Each room in the grand, threestorey boutique has a different concept through which Fornasetti products are showcased in a unique manner: the red-walled room, for example, is filled with furniture decorated with intricate designs of buildings, and the pale green

room is covered in plates depicting different images of the brand’s muse Lina Cavalieri. This store is sure to delight visitors and if you’re charmed by the Fornasetti approach, ask about the custom-made service. sm Fornasetti, Corso Venezia 21A (corner of Via Senato), 20121 Milan, +39 02 8416 1374, fornasetti.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 109

NEW BEGINNINGS With the spring/summer 2017 collection, Bouchra Jarrar has made her debut as creative director of French fashion house Lanvin. Drawing on the label’s rich history, her designs for this first collection – from elegant tailoring to exquisite dresses – are infused with feminine details. Silk chiffon, crêpe de chine and satin are paired with striking embellishments such as feathered lapels, floral pins and jewel-studded bags, as seen in the pictured style (€1,295). Under Jarrar’s expert guidance, the esteemed fashion house enters a new era. grc Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

Lanvin, Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9768 7091, lanvin.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 115


48 | N E W S

ELEGANT STYLE

POWER OF LUXURY

This season Agnona, which is known for its exquisite knitwear, has looked to the Swans – the high-society women who were adored by the American author Truman Capote. Pieces crafted from exquisite cashmere and fine silks communicate romance and glamour, while knitted dresses, including this delicate option in caramel and pink (€1,550), are key pieces. grc Agnona, Via Sant’Andrea 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 798649, agnona.com

Since being founded in 2004, Philipp Plein has sought to create luxury items of the highest standard and the latest collection is yet another example of this unwavering vision. The spring/ summer 2017 collection focuses on ‘street-style couture’, whereby denim items and tracksuits are given a luxury twist. Pair glamorous animal prints, metallics and embellished fabrics with bold jewellery and statement footwear for a powerful look. grc Philipp Plein, Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2098, philipp-plein.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 115

PHOTOS (FROM LEFT): ONPHRAME; MATTEO PRANDONI/BFA.COM

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130


50 | N E W S

OUT OF AFRICA

TOP TOURS Enhance your trip to Milan with Zani Viaggi, the city tour specialist. Zani Viaggi’s coach trips take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, and shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets are also available. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices. Destinations include Serravalle Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

Marco Bicego, Via della Spiga 5, 20122 Milan, +39 02 9122 0010, marcobicego.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 115

Designer Outlet, the second-largest outlet in Europe, Fidenza Village with its impressive selection of boutiques, and Vicolungo the Style Outlet. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border to Switzerland, to the stores at FoxTown. Wherever you go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. sm Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (corner of Via Cusani), 20121 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 104

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ANDREA OFFREDI

Marco Bicego’s Masai jewellery collection has been inspired by the art and ancient elegance of this African tribe. Pieces feature parallel or intertwined coils in yellow and white gold, and the line includes rings encrusted with diamonds and the pictured five-strand 18-carat yellow gold bracelet with diamond pavés (€12,560). Each Marco Bicego piece is handcrafted and carries a proud yet subtle Made in Italy mark. The company’s designs and attention to detail have helped it to become a celebrated name in the world of Italian jewellery design. rre


52 | N E W S

MAGIC CARPETS This is the perfect season for an interior design overhaul and the Sahrai boutique will help you find a perfect new rug for your home. Whether you prefer subtle patterns or a bold design, this well-appointed boutique has something for every taste. Some of the most outstanding carpets on display are adorned with leopards, a majestic beast whose pattern has been in vogue for decades. Equally captivating are the geometric print rugs which will particularly suit modern, minimalist surroundings. sm Sahrai, Via Manzoni 45, 20121 Milan, +39 02 869 0570, sahrai.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 118

This spring saw the opening of Tiffany’s third store in Milan, its tenth in Italy. The two-level boutique is housed in a beautiful historic building dating back to around 1870, conveniently located on the city’s famous Piazza del Duomo, and this magnificent setting creates the perfect atmosphere where visitors can immerse themselves in the world of Tiffany. Here you can discover favourites such as Tiffany T jewellery, and statement timepieces including the pictured Tiffany CT60 Dual Time watch in 18-carat rose gold (price on request). Founded in 1837, the New York brand has always created exquisite designs which are perfect to give as a gift or to mark a momentous occasion. grc Tiffany & Co, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, tiffany.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 106

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) T|TIFFANY & CO. STUDIO

TIME FOR T


It’s time for new challen ges.

BOUTIQUE TISSOT MILAN - CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II, 5

AVAILABLE IN YOUR BOUTIQUE MALPENSA T1B DUTY FREE DEPARTURES FLOOR

www.hourpassion.com

T I S S O T WAT C H E S . C O M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION


54 | N E W S

PICTURE PERFECT Directional Italian brand Marni has a history of artistic inspiration and this season is no different, with the brand launching a mini-collection elaborated with work by Ruth van Beek. The Dutch artist uses personal photographs to create collages, layering images over graphic patterns. This engaging collaboration features a wide range of items, including T-shirts and anoraks and our favourite, the PVC shopper (â‚Ź330) with an image of an exotic plant layered over a floral print in green, black and white. sm Marni, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7327, marni.com

BY DESIGN The 56th Salone del Mobile furniture exhibition takes place from 4 to 9 April. The highlights of Italian and international design are presented at this event featuring 2,000 exhibitors and which is open to industry professionals as well as to the public. Visitors will be able to explore three categories: Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

Classic, Design and xLux, which focuses on timeless luxury with a contemporary twist. Keep an eye out for parallel events, such as Euroluce which is dedicated to lighting, and Workplace 3.0 which showcases designs developed for workspaces. grc Salone del Mobile.Milano, Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del Sempione 28, 20017 Rho, +39 02 725941, salonemilano.it

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ALESSANDRO RUSSOTTI

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114


56 | N E W S

SUPER STYLE Continuing its interest in pop art, this season Iceberg has turned to one of the world’s most famous action heroes, Superman, a character which featured in the work of Andy Warhol. The superhero is a recurring motif in the menswear collection, appearing on knitwear, T-shirts, beachwear and embroidered patches. Adding tropical notes, an all-over foliage print runs as a parallel theme which is artfully counterbalanced by Iceberg’s Marina stripes. A re-interpretation of the Iceberg logo adds a bold final touch to this collection designed by creative director James Long. grc Iceberg, Via Verri 4 (corner of Via Bigli), 20121 Milan, +39 02 3657 7334, iceberg.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

MAKING WAVES This season, Paul & Shark presents a capsule collection in conjunction with Chris Fallows, a South African biologist and photographer. The collaboration consists of T-shirts, technical jackets such as the pictured style (€570), accessories and a surfboard all featuring a pattern which the brand developed, using one of Fallows’ photographs as a starting point. A continuation of Paul & Shark’s 40th anniversary celebrations, this range also supports a good cause: part of the proceeds will be donated to Dyer Island Conservation Trust which works to protect great white sharks. grc Paul & Shark, Via Montenapoleone 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8565, paulshark.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130


elisabettafranchi.com


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SURPRISE IN STORE Vhernier’s carefully crafted Sorpresa bracelets are defined by their clean lines and elegant geometric forms. Despite such a simple appearance, a flick of the wrist reveals the precious stones or diamonds glistening between the expertly manufactured meshes. Variations in the Sorpresa collection include the curving Onda, the sea-inspired Vento and the Bridge – where a rectangular mesh of rose gold is elongated and paired with turquoise or diamonds (pictured, price on request). Founded in 1984, Vhernier has always sought to delight with its jewellery creations, whether inspired by nature or modern architecture. grc

WOMEN FIRST For luxurious handbags, look no further than the Italian leather experts Colombo Via Della Spiga. In the company’s beautifully crafted new collection, visitors will find bags made from crocodile skin as well as items featuring embroidery, in a choice of seasonal Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

IN BRIEF

Vhernier, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7733 1560, vhernier.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114

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colours. Celebrating women, this season’s collection is based around Greek goddesses and features this Dione bag (price on request) which is available in striking blue or a classic black shade with floral embroideries. km Colombo Via Della Spiga, Via della Spiga 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3587, colomboviadellaspiga.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 115


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IN STORE: SANTONI Santoni is known for its high-quality leather footwear for men and women. Established 40 years ago by Andrea Santoni, the company specialises in designing shoes which are made in Italy using traditional techniques. It is now run by the founder’s son, Giuseppe Santoni, who talked to Ximena Daneri about the brand’s history and inspiration as well as about its flagship store on Via Montenapoleone

‘I like to consider myself a maker of beauty. Beauty inspires me, in all its shapes. It is first of all a philosophy of life. I love to surround myself with beautiful objects, characterised by fine quality and uniqueness, and these are also the main requisites of the Santoni collections. ‘The toughest challenge for us is to constantly maintain our traditional craftsmanship and our culture of handmade, at a time when everything is about saving money and making economic choices.

Here at Santoni, we combine tradition and innovation, craftsmanship and modern thinking, quality and design, which are all essential in such

famous architect Patricia Urquiola (pictured), who I’ve admired since the beginning of her career. As well as being creative, she understood our soul and DNA and was able to transfer these into the interiors of our boutique. The space is divided into two rooms where the worlds of Santoni man and woman converge and where we aim to create an intimate atmosphere. The standout element is a modular grill, reproduced as a pattern on the walls. We opened this boutique in 2013 with a very nice event attended by friends of the brand, including the elegant actress Juliette Binoche. ‘When you are located on Via Montenapoleone you are in the best possible location. We currently have five people

‘We reinterpret the classics, making them contemporary’ a competitive environment. We love to reinterpret the classics, making them contemporary. ‘Our Via Montenapoleone store was designed by the

working in the store, to satisfy all the needs of our local and international clientele. ‘The shoes which currently best encapsulate Santoni are the men’s double monk style,


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which have been coloured by hand and are smart and elegant. For women, the highlight of our spring/ summer 2017 collection is an amazing suede sandal which features an embroidered fringe of coins and beads, in a perfect Casablanca style. ‘The history of our company is quite short, 40 years are nothing compared with some other luxury brands. In the first two decades we focused on the commercial side and distribution, while in the last few years we have looked at ‘brand building’: thinking about how to position the excellence of our product among the most iconic luxury names worldwide. I’m really proud of this development and of the results we’ve achieved in such a short time.’ Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

PHOTOS: ANDREA MARTIRADONNA

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Milano | P.zza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 760.003.66 10 Stores in the City


MADE IN


IN THE

PHOTO: DAVIDE XXXXXXX LOVATTI

For cultural spaces with fashion and design at their core, nowhere is better than Milan. Joanna McGinn selects the places to seek out


KNOW


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curator and director. Inside, the permanent exhibition is divided thematically, with 400 outfits and 200 accessories on display, from intricate showstopper gowns to Giorgio Armani’s famous 1980s power suits. Students and superfans can book access to an extensive online archive in the hi-tech research area. Fashion visionary Miuccia Prada has long been an active patron of contemporary arts, regularly collaborating with up-andcoming creatives, and the Fondazione Prada is the embodiment of that passion. The vast

Fondazione Achille Castiglioni is a hidden gem, dedicated to a maestro of design

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PHOTOS: DAVIDE LOVATTI

taly’s undisputed centre of fashion and finance, Milan has long drawn the crowds with its world-class luxury shopping. But it’s also a city steeped in design heritage, from the early 1900s when ornate arcades and boutiques were built, through to the industrial design boom of the mid-20th century when it became a hub for products carrying the Made in Italy label. Today, visitors to Milan can delve into the city’s design legacy through a growing number of museums and public spaces which are attracting a new style crowd. Opened in 2015 to celebrate the legendary Italian brand’s 40 years in fashion, everything about the Armani/Silos museum is underpinned by Giorgio Armani’s signature minimalistic interior design style. Converted from a 1950s granary (also known as a silo in English), the museum’s monumental concrete exterior and pared-back exhibition halls allow the brand’s story to shine. ‘I decided to call it Silos because this building used to store food, which is, of course, essential for life. For me, just as much as food, clothes are also a part of life,’ explains Armani, who has overseen the project and is its Previous page and above: inside the Armani/Silos museum


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exhibition space combines an historic distillery with unabashedly stark, modern structures and sun-drenched courtyards. Since opening in 1993, it has hosted artists such as Sam TaylorWood, Steve McQueen and Carsten Höller. Families will love the Accademia dei Bambini, an area for children where creative workshops are held. The gorgeous Bar Luce is another highlight. The café, which has been designed by film director Wes Anderson, has a retro-surrealistic look, including 1950s-style Formica furniture. A hidden gem, ‘studio-museum’ Fondazione Achille Castiglioni should be at the top of every design buff’s must-visit list. Book a tour of the studio where the late, great maestro of Italian industrial design Achille Castiglioni worked for 60 years: this space provides a fascinating insight into the man who brought us classics such as the Arco floor lamp. His daughter Giovanna takes visitors around the rooms, which are crammed with books, prototypes, drawings, doodles and his fabulously offbeat collection of found objects, from spectacles to wooden stools. Above (from top): exterior of Fondazione Prada; Accademia dei Bambini at the Fondazione; exterior of the space’s café

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): BAS PRINCEN/FONDAZIONE PRADA; DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI/FONDAZIONE PRADA; AUGUST FISCHER CC BY-ND 2.0

‘Objects are not there only to be seen: his daughter invites visitors to touch objects, to sit down and to live this space,’ explains Carlo Castiglioni, president of the Fondazione Achille Castiglioni. ‘It’s a unique experience because, in this manner, visitors are instantly thrown into the work of Achille Castiglioni.’ Carlo’s favourite object is the humble VLM light switch: ‘It’s a symbol of maximum production at a low price – the idea behind every Castiglioni project.’ The city’s newest design museum, Museo del Design 1880-1980, is dedicated to telling the story of Italian and international product design, from art nouveau to Italian new wave. Located in the buzzing Navigli district, this strikingly modern space is essential for budding designers wanting to swat up on the Italian masters such as Gio Ponti and Ettore Sottsass. While not strictly a design space, Villa Necchi Campiglio has become a cult destination for an in-the-know fashion crowd. A 1930s mansion set in lush gardens, the house has been preserved with its original art deco


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features intact. Movie buffs will recognise it as the setting for the impeccably chic film I Am Love. Its style credentials are further boosted by hosting exhibitions, as well as fashion week and Salone del Mobile events. With fashion- and design-focused spaces of this calibre, it’s no wonder that stylish visitors from around the world are coming to Milan for more than just shopping

Above (from top): Bar Luce at Fondazione Prada, designed by Wes Anderson; the tranquil garden at Villa Necchi Campiglio

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA/ATTILIO MARANZANO; © GIORGIO MAJNO / FOTO DI ARENAIMMAGINI.IT,2014 ∏ FAI - FONDO AMBIENTE ITALIANO

With spaces of this calibre, it’s no wonder that stylish visitors from around the world are coming to Milan


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Italy’s leading fashion houses are looking to past decades to create today’s collections. Beth Druce reports

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Right: Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2017


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ast autumn, Prada released a short film directed by David O Russell and starring Frieda Pinto, John Krasinksi and Sacha Baron Cohen. Called Past Forward, the film looks at memories and the way that clothing, or what we wear on any given day, informs our memory of a certain moment. Set in a futuristic environment with a 1950s feel, the film captures Miuccia Prada’s conceptual artistic approach, which has been extended beyond the catwalk to make a wider statement about how clothing shapes our existence. ‘The film feels like another manifestation of her designs,’ says fashion academic and broadcaster Oonagh O’Hagan. ‘It’s not explicit, not spelt out, but it Above (both): Prada spring/summer 2017

feels familiar; whether it’s a scene from the film or one of her silhouettes. You feel you know it, yet it is new and fresh.’ Miuccia Prada is just one of a number of fashion designers who is engaging with the past in order to shape the future. In the spring/ summer 2017 collections at Milan Fashion Week, the past was referenced in a myriad of different ways, shapes and forms, played out through the design of clothes, but also the styling and the models. At Bottega Veneta, supermodels from the 1990s Eva Herzigova and Karen Elson walked the catwalk alongside ‘70s style icon Lauren Hutton and modern-day muse Gigi Hadid.

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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Hutton’s presence was pertinent: in the 1980 film American Gigolo her look was accessorised with a Bottega Veneta intreccio (woven leather) clutch, which the label has reproduced, along with 14 other intreccio bags, to mark its 50th anniversary. Bottega Veneta’s clothes this season reference a 1940s silhouette (the works of artist Norman Rockwell provided inspiration), but without overtly retro connotations. Instead, leather has been cleverly tailored into dresses and separates in sumptuous tones of fuchsia and red geranium, while the more neutrally toned ensembles, for which the house is known, put long loose layers and utility details at the fore. At Versace, designer Donatella Versace has

incorporated elements of the brand’s past into a collection that is making a dash for the future. Figure-hugging mesh, a long-established element at Versace, has been reinvented with sparkling crystals, while signature Versace shades of powder blue and hot purple shake off their usual associations with high-octane glamour in favour of a sporty, space-age persona. And, as at Bottega Veneta’s Milan Fashion Week show, Versace’s clothes were modelled by faces from the past as well as the future: Naomi Campbell, Carmen Kass and Doutzen Kroes joined Gigi Hadid and Edie Campbell, showing that the established and well known can be just as enticing as the new. ‘Decade collaging is a thing of the moment,’ Sarah Mower noted in Vogue,

Above (from left): Gigi Hadid modelling for Bottega Veneta; Naomi Campbell wearing Versace, both spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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Fashion’s past is transforming this season’s collections

Above (clockwise from left): two looks from Fendi; a full-length view of a Gucci outfit and close-up of a jacket from the label, all spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

referring to the Fendi fashion week show, where the label’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld threw a multitude of old and new influences into the air – 1920s sleepwear, 18th-century baroque items, 1990s cargo trousers and PVC bomber jackets from the most recent decades – and landed them as one. While Lagerfeld has spent his career honing this technique to great effect, the papier-mâché approach to design, whereby different eras, genres and thoughts about fashion are melded together seamlessly, is now being adopted throughout the industry. It’s why Alessandro Michele’s riotous reworking of Gucci is proving more than a one-season wonder. For spring/summer 2017 the designer has reached new levels of multi-referential fantasy – which he describes as ‘phantasmagoric’. Eighteenth-century Chinoise runs throughout the collection which also contains elements of baroque and rococo design along with 1970s trouser suits and 1980s skirt suits complete with shiny gilt buttons and Princess Diana pussy bows. For O’Hagan, Michele’s work is a ‘quirky mash-


PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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up’ which is a natural reaction to the political insecurity that we are now facing. ‘When times are tough, people do not want to see paredback, minimalist fashion. Instead, fashion tends to go frivolous. Either via glamour and nostalgia or a fantasy craziness.’ What Prada, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Fendi and Gucci have all shown in their collections this season is that fashion’s past is no longer a dusty box of archived looks that sits on a shelf to be dipped into on the odd occasion. Rather it’s a living, breathing part of the industry’s current narrative, something which right now is transforming the new season’s collections into clothes that clients instantly desire Above (clockwise from top): Gucci; Prada; Doutzen Kroes modelling for Versace, all spring/summer 2017


Lasting Style

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Above: Luisa Spagnoli leather handbags in different colours


Luisa Spagnoli has been creating beautiful Italian-made clothing for more than 85 years. Hannah Lewis finds out more about this thriving label

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f the name Luisa Spagnoli doesn’t instantly spark recognition, this influential woman’s inventions are sure to. Her first enterprise was the creation of Baci Perugina sweets – chocolate ‘kisses’ with a hazelnut filling – which first went on sale in 1907 and are still loved around the world. She later turned her attention from confectionery to clothing, becoming the first person to create

yarn from Angora rabbit fur. This new and luxurious fabric enjoyed immediate success when it was launched and, from 1928 onwards, Spagnoli and her family built a respected womenswear brand around it, based in Perugia, the capital of Umbria. The Luisa Spagnoli label has stayed within the Spagnoli family throughout its history, adapting to each decade. Luisa’s visionary


grandson Lino took over the running of the business in 1960, modernising the company, greatly extending its reach and building on its reputation. The brand is now in the hands of the founder’s great-granddaughter Nicoletta Spagnoli who, as CEO, has been credited with attracting new and younger customers and with helping to make it one of Italy’s most prestigious fashion labels. Nicoletta Spagnoli has overseen great success for the firm, which has continued to grow in recent years despite the difficulties experienced by the clothing industry. Today, the brand has 151 boutiques in Italy, and a further 57 in other countries across the world. Nicoletta believes this is the result of a strong and timeless philosophy. ‘My family has run the company by making innovative and sometimes courageous choices, but always while maintaining respect for our roots, our traditions and the land in which our heritage stretches,’ she explains. ‘Luisa Spagnoli has a long history, almost a century, but the philosophy has remained the same… that to respect tradition is the best way to innovate without ever losing your identity.’ Throughout the decades, the brand has taken pride in using excellent yarns and fabrics, working with skilled craftspeople and making Above (from top): a worker checking clothes in the Luisa Spagnoli knitwear factory in Umbria, 1955; Nicoletta Spagnoli, CEO of Luisa Spagnoli

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): MARIO DE BIASI\MONDADORI PORTFOLIO VIA GETTY IMAGES; CROCCHIONI

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PORSCHE DESIGN | INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR PERFORMANCE

www.porsche-design.com Porsche Design Milano | Via della Spiga 42


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all its pieces in Italy, largely in its own factories. ‘We have always supported the guarantee of an intrinsically high-quality product,’ explains Nicoletta. Another element which has remained strong is the label’s signature style – a fine balance between classic, seasonless looks and fashionforward elements. This was true throughout the 20th century when Luisa Spagnoli embraced new ideas, including relaxed silhouettes

and trousers for women. Reflecting the label’s personal style, the spring/summer 2017 collection features beautiful nautical pieces, such as an off-the-shoulder ruffle top in a Breton stripe, which recall style icons such as Brigitte Bardot. Elsewhere, loosefitting cropped jeans and a soft blue tweed jacket address the season’s trends more directly. ‘The Luisa Spagnoli customer is feminine and practical at the same time,’ says Nicoletta. ‘A professional

Above (all): Luisa Spagnoli spring/summer 2017

traveller, she is always on the move, but still wants to look perfect for every occasion, whether formal or casual, and at every moment of the day.’ The latest collection could hardly fit this brief more perfectly, with a look to suit every occasion. The concept of the ‘total look’ is very important to the brand, and under Nicoletta the offering has expanded to accessories, jewellery and bags, allowing clients to complete their outfits.


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It’s clear that Luisa Spagnoli’s label is as influential as ever

PHOTO (TOP RIGHT): DANNY MARTINDALE/WIREIMAGE

A fragrance was introduced in 2013; named Luisa – ‘It could not be otherwise,’ states Nicoletta – it is a strong example of the brand’s careful balance of heritage with modernity. ‘For a company to have an identity means something very simple: be what you have been without remaining prisoners in the past; change without ever abandoning your roots. Tradition and innovation, for me, are two sides of the same coin. Whenever I find myself making innovative choices, I try to incorporate our heritage.’ Nicoletta’s vision for Luisa Spagnoli has resulted in a number of industry accolades, such as the Leonardo Award for Italian Quality, for helping to develop the image of Italian-made clothing. But when it comes to her proudest achievement, she is more focused on seeing her clothes worn and loved by women. And when one of those women is Kate Middleton – the Duchess of Cambridge – who is married to the UK’s Prince William, it’s clear that Nicoletta is driving the label in a positive direction: ‘Although awards fill me with pride, I think that one of the most gratifying results of my career has been to win the heart of Kate Middleton.’ The Duchess, who Nicoletta describes as ‘an icon of style and beauty’, has worn Luisa Spagnoli on a number of important official outings. With this royal seal of approval, it’s clear the brand is still as influential as ever

Above (clockwise from bottom left): Luisa Spagnoli accessories; Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, attends a formal event in Christchurch, New Zealand, wearing Luisa Spagnoli; Luisa Spagnoli’s eau de parfum, Luisa


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TABLE TALK

As a bustling and culture-filled city, it’s no surprise that Milan has a wide range of eateries. Food and eating out are integral to Italian culture, and many travellers are drawn to the city for its renowned culinary scene. Over the years, traditional trattorias have been joined by a wave of contemporary restaurants. In Milan, inventive and experimental chefs have a willing audience comprising local residents as well as visitors who are eager to try something different. Although you will certainly find pasta dishes on the menus of these modern venues, perhaps even the occasional pizza, these are not typical Italian restaurants. From international influences to open kitchens, modern minimalism to nutritionally focused menus, these eateries meld contemporary ideas with classic Italian cooking, bringing newness and diversity to Milan’s dining scene.

PHOTO: XXXX PHOTO: XXXX

Milan’s modern restaurants offer dishes which are clever, inventive and delicious. Maria Kirchen-Hill samples some of the best


PHOTO: XXXX PHOTO: XXXX

CAFFÈ BAG LI O N I AN D I L BAR ET TO AL BAG LI O N I Recently updated by Milanese design studio Rebosio+Spagnulo, Caffè Baglioni is more stylish than ever, with finishing touches such as glass chandeliers and copper yarn decorations making the perfect setting in which to sample delicious aperitifs and bar snacks. Move through to the adjoining restaurant, Il Baretto al Baglioni, to enjoy a selection of dishes from its innovative menu, which was created by chef Marika Elefante as part of her Healthy Food project. Designed to nourish and detoxify the body, the dishes are proof that nutritional and well-balanced meals can also be delicious. Offering a lighter take on classic Mediterranean fare, dishes are healthy but still feel indulgent – think salad of creamed chicken with Grana Padano, potatoes and rye bread crumbs. Caffè Baglioni and Il Baretto Al Baglioni, Baglioni Hotel Carlton, Via Senato 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 77077, baglionihotels.com


L ANGOSTERIA B ISTROT

CAR LO E CAM I LL A

Owner Enrico Buonocore opened Langosteria Bistrot in 2012 following the great success of its sister restaurant Langosteria. Less formal than its predecessor, this venue is nonetheless elegant and stylish, and continues with the winning formula of a seafood-centred menu with a few meat options. The members of staff aim to make every visitor feel instantly at home. On arriving, guests are welcomed at the raw fish bar, where they can sit and watch the skilled chefs prepare dishes. A starter of tuna toast with buffalo mozzarella and anchovies is a firm favourite, and we also recommend the delicate yet comforting pasta dishes, and the delicious grilled octopus. Ask the house to recommend a great Italian wine or French champagne to accompany your meal, or choose from the excellent artisanal beers on offer. Langosteria Bistrot, Via Privata Bobbio 2, 20144 Milan, +39 02 5810 7802, langosteria.com

As with all great Italian restaurants, Carlo e Camilla puts high-quality raw materials at the heart of its philosophy, presenting uncomplicated dishes where taste is everything. A pared-back, industrial space was chosen by the three creative partners behind the venture, Carlo Cracco, Tanja Solci and Nicola Fanti. The menu, which changes frequently to embrace seasonal produce, is beautifully simple, with perfectly cooked meat, fish and vegetarian dishes as well as unctuous risottos and first-class pastas (handmade, of course). The bar is an attraction in itself, and the theatrically delivered cocktails draw a buzzing crowd each evening. Wine enthusiasts may like to know that the wine list changes frequently and features the produce of one craft winery each month. Carlo e Camilla, Via Giuseppe Meda 24, 20136 Milan, +39 02 837 3963, carloecamillainsegheria.it

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PHOTOS (FROM LEFT): MICHELE BELLA; CHICO DE LUIGI

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TO K U YO S H I Yoji Tokuyoshi moved from Japan to Italy over 10 years ago, and spent almost a decade honing his cookery skills under noted chef Massimo Bottura at the Osteria Francescana in Modena. Moving to Milan, he established his own restaurant in 2015, which gained a Michelin star within months of opening. Tokuyoshi refers to his food as ‘contaminated Italian globalblue.com

cuisine’, seeing ‘fusion’ as an insufficient way of describing his approach. The chef clearly has an understanding of, and respect for, traditional ingredients which he uses to great effect in signature creations such as Gyotaku Mackerel and Hidden Pigeon. Such dishes are artfully presented and taste as equally exquisite. Tokuyoshi, Via San Calocero 3, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8425 4626, ristorantetokuyoshi.com

PHOTOS: (TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT): MARCO VAROLI; (BOTTOM RIGHT) MATTIASANTINI.COM

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Milano, Piazza Duomo 19 - www.cielo.it Tel +39 02 87 40 10 info@cielo.it cielo1914 cielo 1914


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STAY IN STYLE

RITZ PARIS The Ritz Paris, one of the most legendary hotels in the world, has reopened after an extensive four-year refurbishment. The Ritz’s heritage is illustrious; previous guests include Marcel Proust, Maria Callas, and Coco Chanel. Expect spectacularly globalblue.com

opulent suites, some dedicated to the famous names who frequented the hotel, including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Charlie Chaplin – and Chanel. The new Salon Proust is the venue for a sophisticated afternoon tea which, of course, includes the madeleine cakes associated with the eminent author.

Other unique features include the Ritz Club, with its turquoise mosaic swimming pool and Chanel spa, and the shopping gallery, which features some of the world’s most exclusive names. Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4316 3030, ritzparis.com

PHOTO: VINCENT LEROUX

The world’s finest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best


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FOUR SEASONS LONDON AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE The Four Seasons at Ten Trinity Square, just a short walk from Tower Bridge, occupies a classic example of London architecture: the former headquarters of the Port of London Authority, globalblue.com

opened in 1922. This spectacular building now houses 100 guest rooms and suites, a pool and an ultraluxurious Roman-inspired spa. Guests can take afternoon tea in the Rotunda Bar & Lounge, which is adorned with intricate maritimethemed carvings, or enjoy a spectacular dinner in La Dame de Pic, three-Michelin starred chef Anne-Sophie

Pic’s first British restaurant. Rooms are understatedly high-end and equipped with everything the traveller could need, from Nespresso coffee machines to charging stations for tech essentials. Four Seasons London at Ten Trinity Square, 10 Trinity Square, London EC3N 4AJ, +44 (0)20 3866 5858, fourseasons.com/tentrinity

PHOTO: RICHARD WAITE

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KULM HOTEL ST MORITZ The Kulm Hotel St Moritz was the first hotel to be built in the famous Swiss resort. Opened in 1856, it transformed the alpine village into the sought-after destination it is today and can even claim to have started the trend for winter holidays that has

continued ever since. The hotel’s 172 rooms and suites include the luxury Lakefront South suite, with a balcony overlooking breathtaking views across Lake St Moritz. Facilities include seven restaurants, a nine-hole golf course and a spa with a swimming pool, saunas, steam rooms and a Jacuzzi with stunning views of the Alps. The hotel recently reopened

the Kulm Country Club, redesigned by renowned architect Norman Foster; its innovative restaurant’s stellar line-up of international chefs take up residence in rotation, enhancing St Moritz’s reputation as a premier food destination. Kulm Hotel St Moritz, Via Veglia 18, 7500 St Moritz, +41 (0)81 836 8000, kulm.com


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PHOTO: MATTHEW SHAW

PARK HYATT VIENNA Park Hyatt’s first Austrian hotel is every bit as elegant as regular Park Hyatt visitors would expect. The hotel is located in the pedestrianised Goldenes Quartier of Vienna, in a district classified as a World Heritage Site by Unesco. It’s also just a short distance from the city’s main globalblue.com

attractions and most exclusive boutiques. The Hotel’s Café Am Hof celebrates the traditional Viennese coffee house and is particularly lovely during the summer months thanks to its outside terrace, the ideal spot to enjoy coffee, cake and peoplewatching. The hotel has 143 rooms and suites, including Austria’s largest suite, the two-storey Royal Penthouse, which has four

terraces with views across the city. Guests can make use of the Arany Spa which has a well-equipped gym, a 15-metre indoor swimming pool and offers a range of relaxing and rejuvenating body treatments. Park Hyatt Vienna, Am Hof 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 22740 1234, vienna.park.hyatt.com


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GUIDE

PHOTO: © ANDREA SCURATTI

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best bars to a refined men’s accessories store. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

Above: the beautiful Giardino di Villa Reale


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© Samsonite 2017 MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfiore 6 - ROMA House of Samsonite via del Tritone 149 SAMSONITE FACTORY OUTLETS: Cantello (VA) - Corsico (MI) - Vicolungo The Style Outlets (NO) - Serravalle Designer Outlet (AL) Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets (BO) - Fidenza Village (PR) - Valdichiana Outlet Village (AR) - Barberino Designer Outlet (FI) Castel Romano Designer Outlet (RM) - Valmontone Outlet (RM)


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PAGE

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Bar Martini This stylish cocktail spot, owned by Dolce & Gabbana, is the perfect place to see and be seen in. Bar Martini, Corso Venezia 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 1154, dolcegabbana.com

Place Of Interest

ZANI VIAGGI, MILAN VISITOR CENTRE

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CAIROLI

VIA BE R N AR DIN

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FEATURED ON PAGE 64

DO N

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Piazza Castello

FEATURED ON PAGE 46

Armani/Silos This elite fashion museum celebrates four decades of Armani style, where everything will wow you, from the gowns to the accessories. Armani/Silos, CO R SO Via Bergognone 40, 20144 Milan, M AG EN TA +39 02 9163 0010, armanisilos.com

CHIA

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ON CASTELLO SFORZESCO

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FEATURED ON PAGE 60

Fornasetti Whether you select one of the brand’s candles depicting Lina Cavalieri or a piece of statement furniture, Fornasetti’s creations are captivating. Fornasetti, Corso Venezia 21A (corner of Via Senato), 20121 Milan, +39 02 8416 1374, fornasetti.com

PON

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123

LFERIN

122TACCIO

G A R IB

Santoni Step into the sleek boutique from this much-lauded footwear brand and invest in a new pair of shoes. Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

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106 | G U I D E

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S H O P | 107

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

PHOTO: ANTONIO MANISCALCO

For the most intricately designed glassware, make time to visit Griffe. Whether you’re looking for wine goblets, decanters or even plates, there is a product and a style that will certainly appeal. Inspired by the classic Italian film, the La Dolce Vita collection comprises glasses, tumblers, candlesticks and fruit bowls among many other items, all rendered in sumptuous tones of rose, lavender, caramel and ink blue. For visitors planning to redesign their tableware this season, this range is full of cinematic style. Griffe, Via Montenapoleone 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8791, vetreriediempoli.it

Metro

Café


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12 HOURS IN MILAN 10am Begin your day at Pasticceria Marchesi. Famous for its pastries and sweets, this well-established company has recently opened a branch in the luxurious Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, so there’s never been a better time to visit for a cappuccino and a slice of delicious cake. The beautifully packaged confectionery will make great gifts. 11am Explore the stores inside the Galleria where you’ll see the latest luxury handbags from Louis Vuitton, Church’s shoes and Swarovski jewellery. A suitcase from Bric’s is perfect for transporting your purchases.

ELEVENTY Aiming to create clothing which is stylish as well as responsibly sourced, Eleventy works with craftspeople and family-run companies throughout Italy. The spring/summer womenswear line brings refinement to everyday dressing, with items including light tailored coats in pale grey, white cropped trousers and two-tone denim shirts. Eleventy’s leather backpacks, sleek trainers and chunky jewellery will complete your look. Eleventy, Piazza Meda 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3968 0048, eleventy.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

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3pm Marvel at the Duomo, the fifth largest church in the world, which took almost six centuries to construct, and find out more on a guided tour of this impressive Gothic structure. Afterwards, enjoy an aperitif at Obicà Mozzarella Bar on the top floor of La Rinascente department store. 7pm Dine at Altezza Duomo. The recently opened restaurant from chef Luca Marchini entices diners to experience the nation’s flavours and makes the most of stunning local produce. Items are also available to purchase, so you can take home a taste of Italy.


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RICK OWENS MILAN VIA MONTE DI PIETA’ 13 20121 MILAN TEL + 39 02 45386030 WWW.RICKOWENS.EU

STORE@RICKOWENSMILAN.COM OPEN MONDAY TO SATURDAY FROM 10:30 A.M. TO 7:30 P.M. CLOSED ON SUNDAY


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DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

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CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

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TOP 3... COCKTAIL BARS Bar Martini Whether you prefer yours shaken or stirred, at Dolce & Gabbana’s Bar Martini your drink is guaranteed to be delectable. Sink into a velvet armchair and take in the sumptuous surroundings. If you’re feeling peckish, check out the selection of light bites. Bar Martini, Corso Venezia 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 1154, dolcegabbana.com/martini FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 109

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Metro

Featured In This Issue

Bar Basso This historic drinking spot, with a 500-strong menu, is where the negroni sbagliato cocktail was created. Visit for a taste of authentic Milan. Bar Basso, Via Plinio 39, 20129 Milan, +39 02 2940 0580, barbasso.com Le Biciclette For a stunning choice of cocktails and a night out with the city’s trendiest locals, look no further. Le Biciclette, Via Torti 2, 20123 Milan, +39 02 5810 4325, lebiciclette.com

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LARDINI Founded in 1978, family-run label Lardini has established itself as a high-quality manufacturer of tailored clothing. Having begun with its mainline, which creates elegant yet contemporary suiting for men and women, the brand has expanded. Its RVR Lardini line produces functional, reversible outerwear; Gabriele Pasini focuses on reinterpreting the three-piece suit in new and exciting colourways, while Wooster+Lardini combines the talents of Nick Wooster, the former fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, with those of the Italian fashion house. Visit Lardini’s first Milan store, which opened in January, to discover the brand’s suave styles. Lardini, Via Gesù 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8716 9427, lardini.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

HARMONT & BLAINE Characterised by its signature dachshund motif, Harmont & Blaine is known for its refined casualwear. Since presenting its first collection in Capri in 1995 the brand has become synonymous with Mediterranean style, and its collections for men, women and children can be discovered at its Corso Matteotti store. Homely touches such as armchairs and flower-adorned fireplaces give the boutique a relaxed atmosphere, in keeping with the label’s easy-going clothing. To take a piece of Italy home with you, be sure to invest in Harmont & Blaine’s colourful designs. Harmont & Blaine, Corso Matteotti 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 9557, harmontblaine.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 109

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BELSIRE An expert in men’s shoes and ties, Italian brand Belsire is in tune with the modern gentleman. Formal styles, including loafers and buckled shoes in the finest suede and leather, sit alongside more casual footwear designs, all of which showcase Belsire’s dedication to craftsmanship. Ties in a stunning array of prints and patterns hang proudly on the boutique’s wall and in display cases. A selection of pocket squares, belts, scarves and sunglasses are also available in-store, making Belsire a one-stop shop for all your finishing touches.

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Belsire, Corso Venezia 29, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3651 4996, belsire.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 109

Metro


SHOP SU RVEY SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. SHOP, the definitive guide to global shopping, publishes over three million magazines covering over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

Our unique expertise allows us to offer extensive knowledge on key trends, products, brands and boutiques, as well as important information on how to save money by shopping tax free. In addition, SHOP provides restaurant and hotel reviews and interviews with elite fashion designers as well as maps of key shopping areas and information on partner retailer locations. With all this and more, SHOP is the essential international shopping companion.

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G U I D E | 129

DAY TRIP FIDENZA VILLAGE At only 60 minutes from Milan and Bologna, located in the heart of the ‘Food Valley’, discover more than 120 boutiques from Italian and international brands, all offering reductions of up to 70%.

Fidenza Village, Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fidenzavillage.com OPENING TIMES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

MILANO CENTRALE STATION E35 A1

Fidenza Village

FIDENZA STATION

HOW TO GET THERE By Car Exit the A1 motorway at Fidenza/ Salsomaggiore. Pass the toll booth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres on your left.

By Shopping Express ® The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Milan (pick-up point Largo Cairoli/Via Cusani 18) to Fidenza Village daily.

By Train Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of around 60 minutes.

HOSPITALITY

GUEST SERVICES

information centre • Tourist and cafés • Restaurants cards • Gift Wi-Fi all around the Village • Free service and private lounge • Concierge (booking for a group on request) area (for a minimum of 10 people, • Lounge subject to availability)

shopping • Tax-free shopping • Hands-free storage • Luggage delivery service • Worldwide programmes • Frequent-flyer parking • Valet transfer (to be pre-booked) • Luxury • Personal shoppers

Train Station

Outlet Village


130

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

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Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (after security control), first floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: La Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Downtown Como: Viaggi Ronchi, Lungo Lario Trieste 10 141

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132

TRANSLATIONS

美文翻译 64: In The Know

今,博 物 馆 和 公共展 览 越 来 越多,吸引着 新 潮 游客 前 来 探究 这 座城 市 的设 计 遗 产。

兰更 好 的地 方了。Joanna McGinn为 您 精 选 体 验 米 兰

为了庆 祝传 奇意 大 利品牌 乔 治 • 阿 玛尼(Giorgio Armani)在 时尚界 叱咤 风云 40年,Armani/ Silos博 物 馆于 2015年开放。馆中的一 切展品皆彰显乔治 • 阿 玛 尼标志性的极简抽象室内设 计风 格。该博物馆以 2 0 世 纪 50年代的粮仓(在英语中称为“筒仓( silo)”)改 造

文化 的最 佳 去处

而成,其 混 凝 土外墙颇具纪念 意义,简朴的展 厅里陈列

洞 悉 其中 若要 寻 找以时尚和 设 计为核心的 文化 空间,没有比 米

建筑 从前是用来储存粮食的,毫无疑问,它关 乎生命。

绝 世界 的奢 侈购 物 体 验 吸引着八 方来 客。然而,她也

于我而 言,服 装 就像食物一样,也是 生命的一 部 分。”

是 一座 浸润 着 设 计 遗 产 的城 市,从 20世 纪 初装 饰 拱 廊

项目的监管 者、馆长兼 总监 Armani先 生如是说。

与精品店 初 建,一直到 20世 纪中叶的工 业 设 计 大 爆 炸 — —当时的米 兰 成 为了“意 大 利制 造”的中心。如 globalblue.com

在 博 物 馆内部,常驻 展 览 按 主 题 分类,总计展 出

400套服 装与 200件 饰品。从华 美 的 礼 服 到乔 治 • 阿 玛

PHOTO: DAVIDE LOVATTI

的是品牌佳 话。“我 之所以决定叫它 Silos,是因为这座 作为 意 大 利无可争议 的 时尚与 金 融中心,米 兰素以冠


134

尼 20世 纪 80年 代 设 计 的经 典 服 装,应 有尽 有。在高 科

74: Back To The Future

技 搜 索区,学 生和 超 级 粉 丝都 可以预 约 使用电脑,访

回到未 来

问庞 大 的网上档 案馆。 颇 具远见 的 时尚传 奇 缪 西娅 • 普拉 达( Miuccia Prada)一 向积 极 赞助当代艺 术,常与新 锐 的创 意 人士 展 开 合作,普拉 达 基 金会( Fondazione Prada)便因

意 大 利 主 流 时尚品牌正 放 眼 过 往 的 数 十 年,打造前 沿 系列产品。Beth Druce为 您 报 道

此而成 立。在 这片广 阔的展 览 空间里,极 具历史 意义 的 酒厂与质 朴 但 又 现代 的建 筑 结 构 相 映 成 趣,充 满 现 代 风 格,它们 和 洒满阳光 的庭 院融 为 一 体。自1993年 开放以 来,Sam Taylor- Wood、Steve McQueen和

Carsten Höller等 艺 术 家 都曾入驻于此。 前来 参观 的家庭一定会喜 欢普拉 达 基 金会下属 的

Accademia dei Bambini( 儿 童研 究 院)。这 里专为儿 童 打造,用于举办 创 意 十足 的 活 动。优 雅 美丽的 Bar Luce酒 吧是另一大亮 点,由电影 导 演 Wes Anderson 操刀设 计,呈现 50年 代 超 现实 Formica复古风。 Achille Castiglioni基 金会 的“工作 室博 物 馆 ” 宛 若 一 块 鲜为人 知 的宝石,应 被 列为 每 位设 计 爱 好者 必 游 清单 之首。您 不妨预 订一次 工作 室之 旅,参观已 故 意 大 利 工 业 设 计巨匠 工作了60年 的地 方。这片 空间 将为 您 提 供 绝佳 视角,深入了解这位曾设 计出 Arco落 地 灯等经 典作品的大 师。Achille 的女儿 Giovanna会 带 领 游客 参观 房 间,房 间里面堆 满了书 本、样 品、草 图 和 涂 鸦,以及他 绝 不 落 俗 套 的 拾 得 品 — —从 望 远 镜 到 木 板 凳不一而足。 “ 放 在 那里 的物品不 仅仅可以 观 赏,Giovanna还 会 邀 请 访 客触 摸 那 些 物品,坐在 这片 空间中感受 生 活。” Achille Castiglioni基 金会主 席 Carlo 去 年 秋 天,普拉 达( Prada)发布了一 部由 David O

轻 型 腕 表:“这是 低 价 量 产 的一 个代 表 — — 也 是 每 件

Russell执 导,Frieda Pinto、John Krasinksi和 Sacha Baron Cohen联 袂出演 的短 片。该 片名为《回顾向前 》 ( Past Forward),讨 论 人 的记忆 以及 穿 衣 方 式,阐

Castiglioni作品背后 的理 念。”

释了在 特 殊日子所 穿 的 衣 物 如 何影 响我们 对 特定 时刻

市内最 新 的一家设 计 博 物 馆 Museo del Design

的记忆。影片 设 置在 极 具未 来感 的环 境中,并呈现 出

1880 - 1980,讲述 着意 大 利及国际产品设 计 的 故事,

20世 纪 50年 代 的风情。镜 头 捕 捉了缪 西娅·普拉 达

从 新 艺 术 运 动 一直 到意 大 利 新 浪潮。这 家充 满了现代

( Miuccia Prada)的 概 念 性艺 术 设 计技 法,并 延伸到

气 息的博 物 馆坐落于 喧闹的 Navigli区。对于想要追 赶 Gio Ponti和 Ettore Sottsass等意 大 利巨匠 脚 步 的新

秀 场 之外,从 更 广 泛 的层面 陈 述 服 装 如 何 塑 造 我们 的

秀 设 计 师来说,这 里 乃 是不 容 错 过 的一站。 严 格 说 来,Villa Necchi不 仅 是 一 个 设 计 空 间,它

存 在。“这部片子感 觉 就像是 她设 计作品的另一 种 表 现 形式, ”时尚学 者、电台主 播 Oonagh O’Hagan表 示。“它 的表 述 虽不明确,也 未展 开说明,但却 让 人觉

已 然 成 为 时 尚内 行 狂 热 崇 拜 之 地 。奢 华 的 花 园中建 有

得 似曾相 识,不论 是 影片中的某一 个 场 景,还 是 她 的

一 座 20世 纪 30年 代 的 公 馆,原 本 的 艺 术 装 饰风 格 保

某一 个 轮 廓,感 觉自己见 过 它,但它却 是 新 鲜出炉 的

留如 初,为 今 天 的 城 市 带 来 一 块 静 谧 的 绿 洲 。电 影 迷

作品。” 在 众多继 往 开 来 的 时尚 设 计 师中,缪 西娅·普拉

们 都 知 道,这 里 是 时 尚潮 片《 我 是 爱》( I Am Love) 的 取 景之 地 。这 里 还 定 期 举 办 时 尚及 设 计主 题 展 览、

达只 是其中的一 位。在 米 兰 时装周 2017年春夏季系列

时装 周 和 家 具 展( Salone del Mobile)活 动,Villa

中,设 计 师们 从往 季 作品中汲 取灵 感,探 索不同的 方

Necchi在 时 尚圈 的 影 响力 也 由此 得 到了进 一 步 的 提

式、形 状 和 形 态,通 过 模 特 走秀、静 态展 示 等加以呈

升。

现。 有着如 此 水 准 的 时尚及设 计 空间,无 怪 乎世界 各

在 葆 蝶 家( Bottega Veneta)的 秀 场,新 老模 特 齐 上 阵,90后 超 模 Eva Herzigova和 Karen Elson与 70

globalblue.com

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Castiglioni解 释 道。“这是 一 种 独 一 无二的体 验。通 过 这 种 方 式,游客能 立 刻走 进 Achille Castiglioni的 作品之中。”Carlo最喜 欢 的物品,是 一只简朴 的 VLM


135

年 代 的 时尚偶 像 Lauren Hutton及 现代 缪 斯 Gigi

82: Lasting Style

Hadid同台走秀。Hutton的露面颇 有 寓意:在 1980年 的电影《美国舞男》( American Gigolo)中,她便 以 葆 蝶 家 intreccio (编 织 皮)小 手 包 装 点 造 型。该品牌 还 生 产了另外14款 intreccio手 包,作为品牌 50周 年 的

永恒 魅力

Luisa Spagnoli创 造 精 美 的意 大 利制 造 服 装已有 85个 年头了。Hannah Lewis 深入探索这个经久不衰的品牌

纪 念 单 品。 本 季,葆 蝶 家 服 饰 借鉴了一 个来自上世 纪 40年 代 的款 型(艺 术 家 Norman Rockwell的作品 提 供了灵 感),但 并不 仅 限于 复古。相 反,皮革 装 饰点 缀裙装, 呈现 出倒 挂 金 钟 和 红色天 竺葵 的奢 华 色调。而该品牌 赖以成 名的层 叠 套 装 有着更偏中性 的色调,凸显宽 松 层 叠 特 色 和 实用的细 节设 计。 范 思哲( Versace)设 计 师 Donatella Versace则 沿袭 品牌 的编 织 元 素,将之注 入锐 意开 拓 的未 来系列 当中。范 思哲 素来青 睐 的贴身网眼 元 素,借由闪耀 的 水 晶 得以 重 新 诠 释。而 其 标 志性 的粉蓝 和 热 紫色调则 一反惯 常 的 浓 墨 重 彩,转而追求一 种 偏 重休闲、极 具 现代 感 的风 格。正如 米 兰 时装周 上 的葆 蝶 家一样,身 穿 范 思哲服 饰 的 模 特面 孔中既 有老将又有 新 人:Naomi Campbell、Carmen Kass和 Doutzen Kroes与 Gigi Hadid、Edie Campbell携 手 并肩,证 明大 腕 模 特与新生代一样引人 瞩目。 “ 将 数 十 年 的 时间拼 凑起 来,是 当下 的一 种 做 法, ” Sarah Mower在《 时尚》( Vogue)杂 志中表 示。她 提 到了时装周 上 的芬迪( Fendi)大秀,该品牌 创 意 总 监 Karl Lagerfeld将大 量 或 新或旧的影 响元 素 一 并呈现 — — 20年 代 的 睡 衣、18世 纪 的巴洛克 单 品、90年 代 的休闲裤、最 近 几十 年 流行 的 PVC飞 行员 夹 克 融 为 一 炉。Lagerfeld穷 其一生将这 种“贴 纸 设 计

如 果您觉 得 Luisa Spagnoli这个名 字不够 熟 悉,那么

技 法”( papier- mâché)锤 炼得 炉火 纯青 — —不同的

这位传 奇女 性 的作品一定不 会 让 您 感到 陌生。

时代、题 材以及 关于 时尚的奇思妙 想被 无 缝 融 合在一 起。如 今,整 个 时尚界 都 在 传承 运用。 这便 解 释了为什么 Alessandro Michele对 古驰

于 1907年,时至今日仍 在世界 各地备 受喜爱。随后,她

(Gucci)的大力改 造不只 是 昙花一 现 的奇 迹。2017

把 关注 点 从 糖果 行业转向服 装 业,成 为用安 哥 拉 兔毛

年春夏季,这位设 计 师多重借鉴 的梦 幻 作品达 到了新

制 作纱 线 的第一人,这 款 在 当时全 新 的奢 侈面 料一 经

的高度— — 他 将 其描 述为“幻影”( phantasmagoric’

推 出便 大 获 成 功。自1928年 起,Spagnoli和 她 的家 族

)。18世 纪中国女人 的形 象贯 穿于整 个系列 之中,巴洛

在 此 基 础 上 建 立了一 个有口皆碑 的女装 品牌,总部 位

克 和 洛可 可风 格亦 有迹 可循,更 有 70年 代 的 衫 裤 套 装

于 翁布里 亚( Umbria)的 首府 佩鲁吉亚( Perugia)。

和 80年 代 的 衫 裙套 装,缀以闪亮 的 涂金 纽扣 和 戴 安 娜

Luisa Spagnoli的品牌 在 Spagnoli家 族 传承延

王 妃钟 爱 的领口蝴 蝶 结。在 O’Hagan看来,Michele

续,随着 时代 的交替而几 经 变 更。Luisa高 瞻 远 瞩 的孙

的工作 如同一场“奇 特 的 混 搭 ” ,是 对 我们目前面 临的

子 Lino于 1960年 接 手 企 业,实 现了公司的现代化,极

动荡 政 治的自然回应。“ 在 艰 难 时期,人们 不 想 看到返

大 地 扩大了其影 响力,品牌由此声 誉大 振。如 今,该品

璞 归 真、极简抽 象 的 时尚。相 反,时尚倾向于 走向浮

牌由创 始 人 的曾孙女 Nicoletta Spagnoli担任首席 执

夸,无论 是 通 过 魅 影 与 怀旧,还 是 通 过 梦 幻 般 的疯

行官,在 她任职 期 间品牌成 功 吸引了更 趋 年 轻 的新顾

狂。” PHOTO: CROCCHIONI

她 的 首个商业帝国是 Baci Perugina巧 克 力 — — 以榛 果为 夹 心的“浪 漫之 吻 ”巧 克力 — — 问世

本 季,普拉 达、葆 蝶 家、范 思哲、芬迪与 古驰 纷 纷 在 新季系列中表 示,时尚的历史并非架子上蒙着灰 尘、

客 群 体,并将 Luisa Spagnoli打造 成了意 大 利 最 负 盛 名的 时尚品牌 之一。 在 Nicoletta Spagnoli的带 领 下,即使制 衣 行业面

鲜 有人问津 的造 型档 案。相 反,它依然 活在 这个产业

临寒 冬,Luisa Spagnoli在 近 几 年 仍 然 蒸 蒸日上,屡

的当下,是有生命、有 呼 吸 的一 部 分,此刻 正将 新季 的

创 佳 绩。如 今,品牌 在 意 大 利 开设了 151家 精品店,在

系列 作品转 化为顾客 们 一见钟 情 的 衣 装。

世界 各地 拥 有 57家分店。Nicoletta相 信,这一 切 都 源


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羁 绊;求变 而 不 忘 本。对 我 来说,传 统 和 创 新正如 一 枚硬币的两 面。每当我做 新 的尝 试 时,都 会尽力融 入 我们 的传 统 元 素。” 因为对“意 大 利制 造”服 装 形 象 的建 立与巩固贡 献 良多,Nicoletta的远见 卓识 为 Luisa Spagnoli赢得 了业界诸 多 殊 荣,包 括列 奥 纳多意 大 利质 量 奖 ( Leonardo Award for Italian Quality)。但 她 最骄 傲 的成 就 — —和 Luisa Spagnoli一样 — — 莫 过于 看到 自己品牌所 设 计 的服 装 被 女 性 穿 在 身上并 受 到喜爱。 与英国威 廉 王子喜 结 连 理 的 凯 特·米德尔 顿 便 是

Luisa Spagnoli的一 位 忠实顾客。毫 无 疑 问,Nicoletta正 带 领着品牌走向更 光明的未 来:“各 种荣 誉固然 让我 骄 傲,但职 业 生 涯中最令 我 满意 的成 就便 是 赢得 凯 特王 妃 的青 睐。”在 Nicoletta眼中,剑 桥 公爵夫 人 是“气 质 和 美丽的化 身” ,她曾在 众多重要 正 式 场 合身 着 Luisa Spagnoli。 有了来自王 室 的认可,品牌 的影 响力不 言 而 喻。

自强 大而经 久不 变 的经 营 理 念。“ 在 经 营 过 程中,我 的

130: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

家 族不 断做 出创 新、甚 至 是大 胆 的决定,但与此同时,

畅购全 球,尊 享退 税

永 远 尊 重 我们 的过去、传 统,以及养育我们 的那片土 地, ”她 解 释 道。“ Luisa Spagnoli有着 悠久 的历史,几

当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30多万家 商店消费 时,环

乎长 达一 个 世 纪,但 经 营 理 念却 始 终 一以贯之……尊

球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服务(Global Blue Tax Free

重传 统 的最 好方 式 就 是:不 断创 新,更 不 忘 初心。” 在 过去 的 数 十 年 间,该品牌以优 质 纱 线 和 面 料而 独 领 风 骚,与 技 艺 精 湛 的工 匠合作,所有产品均 在 意

Shopping)为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用 环 球 蓝 联 (Global Blue)的购 物 退 税 服务,何 不加入他们 的行

大 利制 造,大 部 分由自家 工 厂出产。“我们 一直 致力于

列?您只需 在 购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联(Global Blue)的

生 产出真正高质 量 的产品, ”Nicoletta如 是说 道。

蓝 星标 志,或 直 接 问询 商家是 否 提 供 环 球 蓝 联

该品牌 经 久不 衰 的另一大奥 秘 就 是其 标 志性 款 式 — — 经 典 的“不 分季风 格”与 前卫 时尚元 素 的 巧妙

(Global Blue)退 税 服务,然后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税 流 程即 可:

结 合,贯 穿了整 个 20世 纪。Luisa Spagnoli非常 欢 迎 新思潮,为 女 性 打造 出轻松 休闲的廓 形和 长裤。2017

1. 购 物 消费

年春夏系列充分彰显了品牌 个 性,主 打 美丽的 海洋风

无论 您 在 哪里 购 物,请向商家索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表 格

格 服 饰,如 饰 有 Breton条 纹 的露肩褶 边 上 衣,令人不

(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并 保存 好购 物

禁 联 想 起 风情万 种 的碧 姬·芭铎( Brigitte Bardot)。

票 据。

另外,宽 松 的九分牛 仔 裤 和浅 蓝色 花 呢夹 克也 直 观 地 诠 释了当季 的流行 趋势。

2. 申领 退 税

“ Luisa Spagnoli设 计 的 时装 既 充 满 女 性 的妩 媚

在 您 返 程离境前,请 前往 海 关柜台,出示 退 税 表 格和

之美 又百搭实用, ”Nicoletta表 示。“我们 的顾客都是‘

相 关 票 据,获 取 海 关印章,然后再到 环 球 蓝 联 的退 税

空中飞 人’ ,经常 需 要出差,但希望在 任 何情况下保 持

点领 取 退 税 款。

是 休闲时分。”全 新系列完 美诠 释了这个 理 念,服 装 的

联 系方 式:

款 式 适合 各种 场 合。品牌 非常 注 重“整 体形 象” ,在

taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最 低消费 € 154. 94欧 元 即 可申请 退 税,能 够 节省高达 购 买 商品 价15. 5%的税。请 注 意:您 收 到 的退 税 款 是

Nicoletta的带 领 下,产品线 延伸至 配饰、珠 宝和 手 袋,供 顾客 搭 配 服 装。

2013年,一 款 香水诞 生,取名为 Luisa— —“这个 名 字 再适合不过了, ”Nicoletta表 示,它堪 称 品牌 将 传

增 值 税 减去环 球 蓝 联 的手 续 费。如 果您 选 择 现 金 退

统 和 现代 巧妙 平 衡 的典 范。“一家公司 若 想 拥 有独 一

税,部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为单位收取 现 金 退 税

无二的品牌形 象,很简单,就 是 保 持 初心而 不 被 过去

globalblue.com

PHOTO: DANNY MARTINDALE/WIREIMAGE

完 美 形 象,每天 的每 一 分 每 一 秒,无论 是 正 式 场 合 还


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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 64: In The Know

Для тех, кто понимает Джоанна МакДжинн рассказывает о самых интересных культурных пространствах Милана, посвященных моде и дизайну Милан – бесспорный центр моды и финансов Италии, и уже многие годы сюда стекаются туристы в поисках шоппинга мирового уровня. Помимо этого, город играет важную роль в истории дизайна: в первые десятилетия 20 века он застраивался пассажами и бутиками с модернистской отделкой. А в середине века, во время бума индустриального дизайна, именно Милан стал центром разработки продуктов, отмеченных ярлыком «сделано в Италии». В 2015 году состоялось открытие музея Armani/Silos, приуроченное к 40-летию легендарного бренда Armani. Знаменитый минимализм Джорджио Армани нашел свое воплощение в интерьерах музея. В 1950-е в этом здании находился амбар (silo на английском языке), а теперь за монументальным бетонным фасадом скрываются лаконичные по оформлению выставочные залы. На их спокойном фоне история бренда представлена очень сильно: «Я решил назвать это пространство Silos, потому что раньше строение использовалось для хранения самых необходимых для жизни продуктов. Я считаю, что одежда, как и еда, являются неотъемлемой частью жизни», – комментирует Армани. Он лично следит за реализацией проекта в роли куратора и директора. Постоянная экспозиция музея разделена по тематическому принципу. В нее входит 400 нарядов и 200 аксессуаров, от приковывающих взгляд платьев до знаменитых строгих костюмов 1980-х. Студенты и истинные фанаты могут получить доступ к обширному онлайн-архиву в исследовательском секторе, оборудованном на высоком технологическом уровне. Модный провидец Миучча Прада уже давно покровительствует современному искусству, регулярно сотрудничая с молодыми художниками. Ее страсть вылилась в создание Fondazione Prada – масштабного выставочного центра с залитыми солнцем внутренними

двориками. В его залах есть место и прекрасным старинным образцам, и дерзким современным работам. С момента открытия в 1993 году здесь выставлялись Сэм Тейлор-Вуд, Стив МакКуин и Карстен Хеллер. Детям понравится проводить время в специальном пространстве Accademia dei Bambini, где проводятся творческие мастерские для маленьких. А взрослым предназначен чудесный Bar Luce, оформлением которого занимался кинорежиссер Уэс Андерсон. Помещение убрано в фирменном стиле ретро-сюрреализма с использованием цветного пластика, популярного в 1950-е года. Визит в «музей-мастерскую» Fondazione Achille Castiglioni обязательно должен быть в списке дел каждого поклонника дизайна. Забронируйте экскурсию в студию, где на протяжении 60 лет работал великий маэстро итальянского индустриального дизайна Акилле Кастильони. Это поможет вам проникнуть в творческий мир человека, который подарил нам классические предметы интерьера, в частности, напольный светильник Arco. Его дочь Джованна сопроводит вас в путешествии по комнатам, доверху наполненным книгами, прототипами, рисунками, набросками и предметами из необычайной коллекции «ready made»: от очков до деревянных стульев. «Вещи разложены здесь не только для осмотра: Джованна всегда приглашает посетителей прикоснуться к ним, посидеть на них, прожить это пространство, – объясняет Карло Кастильони, президент Fondazione Achille Castiglioni. – Это уникальный опыт, поскольку таким образом вы глубже проникаете в работу Акилле Кастильони». Любимый объект Карло – простой выключатель VLM: «Это символ максимальной эффективности при низкой цене – именно эта идея стоит за каждым проектом Кастильони». Новейший музей дизайна Museo del Design 1880-1980 посвящен истории итальянского и мирового промышленного дизайна, от ар-нуво до итальянской новой волны. Он расположен в шумном районе Навильи и оформлен в современном стиле. Его посещают подающие надежды дизайнеры, чтобы учиться у таких итальянских мастеров, как Джо Понти и Этторе Соттсасс. Усадьба Villa Necchi, строго говоря, не связана с дизайном напрямую, но стала своего


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globalblue.com

74: Back To The Future

Назад в будущее

Итальянские модные дома обращаются к прошлым десятилетиям, чтобы создавать современные коллекции, – рассказывает Бет Дрюс Прошлой осенью состоялась премьера короткометражного фильма для модного дома Prada «Past Forward», который снял режиссер Дэвид О. Расселл. В главных ролях – Фрида Пинто, Джон Красински и Саша Барон Коэн. Фильм посвящен теме памяти и тому, как одежда в целом или образ для отдельного дня помогает сохранить воспоминания об определенном моменте. Действие происходит в футуристичных декорациях и одновременно в атмосфере 1950-х, и это полностью совпадает с подходом Миуччи Прада к моде. Только теперь разговор о том, как одежда оформляет наш способ существования в мире, вышел за пределы подиумов: «Этот фильм воспринимается как еще одно проявление ее дизайна, – размышляет преподаватель моды и ведущая Уна О’Хаган. – Об этом не сказано явно или напрямую, но там все кажется знакомым, будь то сцена из фильма или одна из моделей. Не покидает ощущение, что вам это знакомо, хотя все идеи новые и свежие». Не только Миучча Прада обращается к прошлому, чтобы говорить о будущем. В коллекциях весна-лето 2017 на Миланской неделе моды прошлое проявлялось самыми разными способами, фигурами и формами, причем не только в дизайне одежды, но и в общей стилистике и подборе моделей. Во время показа Bottega Veneta супермодели 1990-х Ева Герцигова и Карен Эльсон демонстрировали коллекцию вместе с иконой стиля семидесятых Лорен Хаттон и музой наших дней Джиджи Хадид. Участие Лорен Хаттон было вполне уместным и объяснимым: в фильме 1980 года «Американский жиголо» ее героиня держала в руках клатч Bottega Veneta из плетеной кожи intreccio. К своему 50-летию модный дом воспроизвел этот клатч и 14 других сумок в технике intreccio. Одежда Bottega Veneta в этом сезоне

PHOTO: BAS PRINCEN/FONDAZIONE PRADA

рода культовым местом для модной публики. Само здание, утопающее в пышных садах, было построено в 1930-е годы, и оригинальные элементы ар-деко сохранились в первозданном виде. В этом оазисе тишины посреди шумного города киноманы узнают декорации к фильму «Я – это любовь». А стильный статус Villa Necchi подтверждается регулярными выставками моды и дизайна и специальными событиями в рамках модной недели Salone del Mobile. Неудивительно, что при столь масштабных и интересных культурных институциях, стильные путешественники теперь отправляются в Милан не только за шоппингом.


PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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напоминает о силуэтах 1940-х (и создана под вдохновением от произведений художника Нормана Роквелла), но при этом лишена откровенных коннотаций ретро. Напротив, фрагменты из кожи искусно встроены в платья и другие вещи роскошных оттенков фуксии и красной герани, а более нейтральные комплекты, характерные для этого бренда, делают акцент на свободные формы и практичные детали. Дизайнер Донателла Версаче вплетает прошлое бренда Versace в новую коллекцию, которая ориентирована на будущее. Затянутый в сетку силуэт, давний прием Versace, был переосмыслен здесь с помощью сияющих кристаллов. А фирменные солнцезащитные очки, выполненные в пудренном синем и горячем пурпурном оттенках, теперь не выглядят авангардными, а созданы для современного спортивного образа. Как и у

Bottega Veneta, на Миланской неделе моды одежду Versace представляли персоны как из прошлого, так и из будущего: Наоми Кэмпбелл, Кармен Касс и Даутцен Крус вышли на подиум вместе с Джиджи Хадид и Эди Кэмпбел, чем продемонстрировали, что авторитетное и хорошо известное может быть столь же притягательным и интересным, как новое. «Коллажи из десятилетий очень востребованы сейчас», – отметила Сара Моуэр в статье для Vogue, говоря о показе Fendi на Неделе моды. Креативный директор Fendi Карл Лагерфельд обратился к прошлым и новым трендам и свел их воедино: пижама 1920-х, барочные вещи 18 века, карго-брюки 1990-х и куртки-бомберы из ПВХ прошлого десятилетия. На протяжении своей карьеры Лагерфельд оттачивал эту технику до совершенства, а теперь вся модная индустрия принимает такой подход к дизайну, когда, как папье-маше, в одном котле сплавляются различные эпохи, жанры и идеи. На этом фоне и революционное обновление Gucci, которое произвел Алессандро Микеле, оказалось не просто событием одного сезона. В коллекции весна-лето 2017 Микеле вышел на новый уровень фантазирования о различных эпохах, он сам называет это «фантасмагорией». Сквозь всю серию проходят китайские мотивы 18 века, элементы барокко и рококо, а также отсылки к брючным костюмам 1970-х и костюмам с юбкой 1980-х, дополненным блестящими позолоченными пуговицами и шейными бантами в стиле принцессы Дианы. О’Хаган называет работу Микеле «остроумной мешаниной», которая стала естественной реакцией на политическую незащищенность нашего времени: «Когда наступают сложные времена, люди не хотят видеть спокойную минималистскую моду. Наоборот, мода стремится к легкомысленности. Через блеск и ностальгию или фантазийное сумасбродство». В коллекциях этого сезона Prada, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Fendi и Gucci наглядно показали, что прошлое моды – это не те образы, которые когда-то были популярны, а теперь списаны в архив и пылятся на полках. Наоборот, это живая, дышащая часть модного процесса. И именно она прямо сейчас делает коллекции нового сезона очень желанными.


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82: Lasting Style

Стиль с историей Ханна Льюис рассказывает о бренде Luisa Spagnoli, который уже более 85 лет создает красивую одежду в Италии

Имя Луизы Спаньоли может вам ни о чем не сказать, но изобретения этой влиятельной женщины, определенно, близки многим. Ее первым предприятием стал выпуск конфет Baci Perugina. Шоколадные «поцелуи» (так переводится слово Baci) с фундуком появились в 1907 году, и до сих пор их любят во всем мире. Вскоре внимание Спаньоли переключилось на одежду, и она первой globalblue.com

создала пряжу из шерсти кроликов ангорской породы. На мгновенном успехе этой передовой и качественной ткани Луиза Спаньоли вместе с семьей начала строить бренд женской одежды. С 1928 года компания под ее собственным именем работает в Перудже, столице Умбрии. На протяжении всей истории бренд Luisa Spagnoli принадлежит семье Спаньоли, которая адаптирует его к каждому новому десятилетию. В 1960 году компанию возглавил внук Луизы Лино, он провел модернизацию и существенно расширил ее присутствие, продолжив выстраивать репутацию. Сейчас бренд в руках праправнучки основательницы Николетты Спаньоли, которой как исполнительному директору доверили привлечь новых молодых покупателей и сделать бренд одним из самых престижных в Италии. За время работы Николетты Спаньоли компания достигла больших успехов, которым не помешали даже общие для всей модной индустрии трудности. Сегодня у бренда 151 бутик в Италии и еще 57 в других странах мира. Николетта относит эти свершения на счет сильной и проверенной временем философии Luisa Spagnoli: «Моя семья управляет компанией с помощью передовых и иногда очень смелых решений. Но при этом мы всегда с уважением относится к корням, традициям и земле, на которой мы работаем. У Luisa Spagnoli большая история, почти целый век, но философия остается неизменной... уважение к традиции – это лучший способ привносить новации и никогда не терять идентичность». На протяжении десятилетий этот бренд гордится использованием качественных тканей и пряжи, сотрудничеством с профессиональными мастерами и локальностью производства, главным образом на собственных фабриках в Италии. «Мы всегда выполняем наши обязательства по высокому качеству продукции», – комментирует Николетта. Еще один сильный фактор идентичности Luisa Spagnoli – это узнаваемый стиль. Он представляет собой органичное сочетание внесезонной классики и ориентированных на тренды вкраплений. Это оставалось неизменным на протяжении всего 20 века, даже когда компания осваивала веяния нового


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времени, например, брюки для женщин и свободные силуэты. Коллекция весна-лето 2017 выполнена в духе фирменного стиля и включает красивые морские вещи, например, приспущенный с плеч бретонский топ с кружевом, который напоминает об иконе стиля Бриджит Бардо. Более непосредственно к трендам текущего сезона относятся широкие укороченные джинсы и мягкий синий твидовый пиджак. «Покупательница Luisa Spagnoli одновременно женственна и практична, – размышляет Николетта. – Она профессиональная путешественница и всегда находится в движении, но при этом хочет идеально выглядеть в любой ситуации, как официальной, так и повседневной, в любой момент дня». Новая коллекция идеально подходит под это описание, и в ней действительно есть комплекты на любой случай. Вообще, идея образа, целиком составленного из вещей одной марки, очень важна для марки Luisa Spagnoli. Поэтому под руководством Николетты ассортимент бренда пополнился аксессуарами, украшениями и сумками, которыми покупательницы могут дополнить свои наряды. В 2013 году бренд представил собственный аромат. Парфюм получил название Luisa: как говорит Николетта, «по-другому и быть не могло». И этот проект – прекрасный пример идеального баланса между наследием и современностью: «Идентичность компании – это очень просто: оставайтесь тем, кем вы всегда были, но не застревайте в прошлом; меняйтесь, но не забывайте о корнях. Я воспринимаю традиции и изменения как две стороны одной медали. Всякий раз, принимая новое решение двигаться вперед, я стараюсь учитывать и наше наследие». Идеи Николетты для Luisa Spagnoli получили признание в профессиональном сообществе. Об этом свидетельствует, в частности, премия Leonardo Award for Italian Quality за помощь в развитии и укреплении статуса итальянской одежды. Но самое большое достижение, как это всегда было в Luisa Spagnoli, связано с любовью женщин к одежде марки. А если одна из этих женщин – Кейт Миддлтон,

супруга британского Принца Уильяма, то это только подтверждает правильный курс Николетты: «Конечно, престижная премия наполняет меня гордостью, но одним из самых приятных результатов моей работы стало завоевание сердца Кейт Миддлтон». Герцогиня Кембриджская, которую Николетта называет «иконой стиля и красоты», появлялась в образах Luisa Spagnoli на многих важных официальных событиях. Королевская печать одобрения еще раз подтверждает, что бренд Luisa Spagnoli попрежнему столь же влиятельный, каким был всегда. 130: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте свыше €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.


日本語 64: In The Know デザイン通必見のスポット ファッションやデザインを中心に据えた文化施設に かけては、ミラノに優る都市はない。ジョアナ・マッギ ンが必見スポットを紹介する。 イタリアのファッションとファイナンスの中心地として 揺るぎない地位を誇るミラノは昔から、世界有数の 高級品ショッピングのメッカとして観光客を魅了して きたが、装飾的なアーケードやブティックが建設さ れた1900年代初頭から「メイド・イン・イタリア」製 品が集まるハブとなった20世紀半ばのインダストリ アルデザインブーム期まで、デザインの歴史も実に豊 かだ。現在は新たにスタイル通を惹きつける博物館 や公共スペースが増えて、デザインの伝統も堪能でき るようになっている。 イタリアを代表するブランドの40周年を記念し て2015年にオープンしたアルマーニ・シーロス美術 館は、ジョルジオ・アルマーニ独特のミニマリスト的 インテリアデザインスタイルが全ての基礎になってい る。1950年代に建てられた穀物倉庫(英語で「サイ ロ(Silo)」)を改装したこの博物館は、外観は堂々 たるコンクリート造りで展示ホールもごくシンプル。 それだからこそ、ブランドのストーリーが光る。 「シー ロス(サイロ)と呼ぶことにしたのは、この建物が食 物保管庫として使われていたから。食はもちろん生き ていくのにかかせないもの。私にとっては、衣も食と

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同じく生活の一部なんです」と、このプロジェクトの 監督で同館のキュレーター兼ディレクターでもあるア ルマーニはいう。 館内にはテーマ別の常設展があり、話題をかっ さらったロングドレスからジョルジオ・アルマーニの 有名な1980年代パワースーツまで、400着の服と200 点のアクセサリーが展示されている。学生や熱烈ファ ンなら、ハイテク研究エリアの広範なオンラインアー カイブへのアクセスを予約することも可能だ。 ファッション界の未来を見通すミウッチヤ・プラ ダは長年、現代アートのパトロンとして積極的に活動 しており、新進創作家とのコラボもしょっちゅう行っ ている。そうした情熱を体現したのがフォンダツィオ ーネ・プラダ(プラダ財団)だ。広大な展示スペース は、歴史ある蒸留所の建物に平然と飾り気のないモ ダンな建物を組み合わせ、中庭には陽光が燦々と降 り注ぐ。1993年にオープンして以来、サム・テイラー・ ウッド、スティーブ・マックイーン、カーステン・ヘラー といったアーティストの展覧会を催してきた。 家族連れなら、創作ワークショップが開催され る子供用エリア「アカデミア・デイ・バンビーニ」が気 に入るだろう。映画監督ウェス・アンダーソンがデザ インした豪華なバール・ルーチェも注目だ。  あまり知られていないが、フォンダツィオーネ・ア ッキーレ・カスティリオーニ(アッキーレ・カスティリ オーニ財団)の「スタジオミュージアム」も、デザイン マニアならぜひ訪ねたいところ。今は亡きイタリア ン・インダストリアルデザインの巨匠アッキーレ・カス ティリオーニが60年間仕事したスタジオのツアーを 予約しよう。 「アルコ」フロアランプなどの名品を世 に送り出した男の生き様を物語るこの空間に胸躍る ことだろう。彼の娘のジョヴァンナさんが、本や試作 品、図面、走り書きに加え、メガネから木の腰掛など 彼の突飛な収拾物コレクションが所狭しと並ぶ部屋 を案内してくれる。 「それらの物はただ見ていただくために置かれ ているのではありません。ジョヴァンナは来館される 方々に、物に触れ、椅子に座って、空間を実際に体 験してくださいと促しています」と、アッキーレ・カステ ィリオーニ財団のカルロ・カスティリオーニ理事長は いう。 「そうすることで、来館者はたちまちアッキー レ・カスティリオーニの仕事の世界へと誘われます。 まさにここでしか味わえない体験ができるというわ けです。」カルロが一番気に入っているオブジェは、 地味なVLMライトスイッチだ。 「これぞ廉価大量生 産のシンボル。カスティリオーニのプロジェクト全て に共通する考え方の象徴だと思います。」 ミラノで最も新しいデザイン博物館「ムゼオ・デ ル・デザイン1880-1980」は、アールヌーボーからイタ リアン・ニューウェーブまで、イタリアと世界のプロダ

PHOTO: © GIORGIO MAJNO / FOTO DI ARENAIMMAGINI.IT,2014 ∏ FAI - FONDO AMBIENTE ITALIANO

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クトデザインを専門に展示している。賑やかなナヴィ リオ地区にある超モダンなこのスペースは、ジオ・ポ ンティ、エットーレ・ソットサスといったイタリアの巨 匠について猛勉強したい新米デザイナーには見逃せ ない。 また、厳密にはデザイン展示スペースではない が、ヴィラ・ネッキもファッション通には人気の場所 だ。緑生い茂る庭園に囲まれた1930年代の豪邸で、 オリジナルのアールデコ装飾をそのまま保存し、現 在ではこの都市の憩いのオアシスになっている。映 画ファンには、洗練きわまる映画「ミラノ、愛に生き る」の舞台としてお馴染みだろう。この建物のスタイ ル性は、ファッションやデザインをテーマとする展示 会の他、ファッションウィークやミラノサローネ・デ ル・モービレ(ミラノサローネ国際家具見本市)のイ ベントの会場となることでさらに高まっている。 ファッションやデザインをテーマとしたこんな高 レベルの空間があるミラノ。ショッピング目当てだけ ではないスタイリッシュな観光客が世界中から押し 寄せるのも不思議はない。

74: Back To The Future バック・トゥー・ザ・フューチャー 過去数十年を振り返りつつ現代のコレクションを製 作するイタリアの有力ファッションハウス。べス・ドゥ ルースがレポートする。 プラダが昨秋、デヴィッド・O・ラッセル監督、フリー ダ・ピント、ジョン・クラシンスキー、サシャ・バロン・ コーエン出演の短編映画をリリースした。 『パース ト・フォワード』と題されたこの映画は記憶をテーマ にし、ある瞬間の記憶に服装、つまり私たちがその日 身に付けていたものがどう関わっているかを探った 作品。1950年代を彷彿とする未来世界を舞台に、キ ャットウォーク上にとどまらず、広い意味で装いが人 間の存在をいかに形作るかを見せるミウッチヤ・プラ ダのコンセプチュアル・アート的なアプローチをとら えた。 「この映画は彼女のデザインを別の形で表現 したよう」というのは、ファッション研究者でもある ブロードキャスターのウーナ・オヘイガンだ。 「はっき りと何と明言も説明もしていないけれど、映画の一 場面とかミウッチャの作るシルエットとか、何となく 知っている感じがするんです。見たことがありそう で、実は斬新。」 未来を形作る際に過去を要素として取り入れる ファッションデザイナーは、ミウッチヤ・プラダだけ ではない。ミラノ・ファッションウィークで披露された 2017年春夏コレクションでは、過去が服のデザイン だけでなくスタイリングやモデルまで様々な方法や

形で反映されていた。 ボッテガ・ヴェネタでは1990年代のスーパーモ デル、エヴァ・ハーツィゴヴァとカレン・エルソン が、70年代のスタイルアイコン、ローレン・ハットンや 現代のミューズ、ジジ・ハディッドと共にキャットウォ ークを闊歩。1980年の映画「アメリカン・ジゴロ」で ボッテガ・ヴェネタのイントレッチオ(皮紐編み込 み)クラッチバッグを使っていたハットンの起用は、 まさにふさわしい。同レーベルは創立50周年を記念 して、このバッグをはじめ15種の復刻版イントレッチ オバッグを出した。 今シーズンのボッテガ・ヴェネタの服は1940年 代のシルエットを参考にしているが(アーティストの ノーマン・ロックウェルの作品がインスピレーション となったという)、いかにもレトロという雰囲気はな い。それどころか、レザーを巧みにテイラーリングし たドレスやセパレーツにはフューシャピンクやレッド ゼラニウムといった豪華なトーンが使われ、同ブラン ドお得意のニュートラルトーンのアンサンブルはゆっ たりとしたレイヤーや実用的なディテールを強調した デザインになっている。 ヴェルサーチではデザイナーのドナテッラ・ヴェ ルサーチが同ブランドの過去を未来に向けたコレク ションの要素として取り入れている。ヴェルサーチの 特徴として定着している体にぴったりしたメッシュを きらめくクリスタルで刷新し、パウダーブルーや鮮や かなパープルといったヴェルサーチ独特の色使い も、いつものインパクトの強いグラマラスな魅力でな くスポーティな宇宙時代のイメージを追求している。 ミラノ・ファッションウィークでのボッテガ・ヴェネタ のショーと同じく、ヴェルサーチの服を披露するモデ ルたちも過去と未来の顔を揃えた。ナオミ・キャンベ ル、カルメン・カス、ドウツェン・クロースがジジ・ハデ ィッド、エディ・キャンベルと共に登場し、確立された 有名人も新しい顔ぶれと同じように魅力的になれる ことを示して見せた。 「異なる時代をコラージュすることが今の流行 りです」と、サラ・モウワーがヴォーグ誌で語ってい る。ファッションウィークでのフェンディのショーに ついてのコメントだが、同レーベルではクリエイティ ブディレクターのカール・ラガーフェルドが、1920年 代のスリープウェア、18世紀のバロック風ファッショ ン、1990年代のカーゴパンツ、最近では2000年代以 降のPVCボマージャケットなど様々な要素を新旧織 り交ぜて取り入れていた。ラガーフェルドは自身のキ ャリアを通じてこのテクニックに磨きをかけ素晴らし い効果を上げてきたが、今は業界全体が、異なる時 代、ジャンル、ファッション観をシームレスに融合す るこの張り子細工のようなデザイン法を採用してい るのだ。


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82: Lasting Style 長年愛されるスタイル ルイーザ・スパニョーリは美しいイタリア製の服を85 年以上にわたって作ってきた。この人気レーベルに ついてハンナ・ルイスがレポートする。 ルイーザ・スパニョーリという名前に馴染みはなくと も、影響力の大きな彼女が発明したものを見ればピ ンと来るはず。 ルイーザが最初に手掛けたビジネスは、ヘーゼ ルナッツの入った一口サイズのチョコレート「バー チ・ペルジーナ」というお菓子だった。1907年発売で 今も世界中で愛されるスイーツだ。その後、お菓子づ くりから洋服づくりに転向した彼女は、アンゴラウサ ギの毛から糸を作った最初の人となる。この贅沢な 新素材は発売されるなりたちまち有名になり、1928 年以降、スパニョーリとその一族はこの素材を中心 としたウーマンズウェアブランドをウンブリアの州都 ペルージャで確立し名声を得る。 「ルイーザ・スパニョーリ」のレーベルは創設以 来スパニョーリ一族の手で経営され、時代に適応し てきた。ルイーザの孫で先見の明があったリノが 1960年に家業を継ぎ、会社を近代化し、手を広げて 現在の評判を築き上げた。今このブランドの舵をとる のは創業者のひ孫にあたるニコレッタ・スパニョー リ。ニコレッタはCEOとして新たに若年層の顧客を 引き付け、ブランドをイタリア有数の高級ファッショ ンレーベルへ育て上げたとして高く評価されてい る。 ニコレッタ・スパニョーリが監督する同社は近年 の向かい風の服飾業界にあっても成長を続け、大成 功を収めてきた。現在はイタリアに151のブティック を持ち、さらに世界各地に57店を展開するまでにな っている。ニコレッタいわく、これは時代を問わない しっかりした理念を貫いてきたおかげだという。 「私 の一族は、画期的で時には勇気を要する選択をしな がら会社を運営してきましたが、自分たちのルーツと 伝統、そしてそれが根差す土地に対する敬意を忘れ たことはありませんでした。ルイーザ・スパニョーリに は1世紀近い長い歴史がありますが、その理念は変 わっていません。自分のアイデンティティを失うことな く革新する最善の方法は伝統を重んじること、とい う理念です。」 同ブランドはこれまで数十年にわたって極上の 糸と生地を用い、熟練の職人の手によって、全商品 をイタリアで(大方は自社工場で)作ってきたことを 誇りにしている。 「本質的に品質の高い商品を保証す ることを、当社では常にサポートしてきました」と、ニ コレッタは説明する。

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

アレッサンドロ・ミケーレによる大胆なグッチの 再生も当然、1シーズン限りの現象に終わってはいな い。2017年春夏のミケーレ作品は、自身が「ファンタ スマゴリック(変幻自在)」と呼ぶ複数要素を取り入 れたファンタジーの新レベルに到達している。コレク ション全体に18世紀のシノワーズスタイルが反映さ れ、同時にバロックやロココのデザイン、金ボタンや ダイアナ妃風ボウタイのついた1970年代のパンツス ーツや1980年代のスカートスーツといった要素も。オ ヘイガンにとってミケーレの作品は「風変りのマッシ ュアップ」で、これは現代の政情不安への自然なリア クションだという。 「辛い時代には無駄を削ぎ落とし たミニマリスト的な装いはしたくないもの。そういう 時代は、ファッションがむしろ軽薄化する傾向にあ ります。グラマラスな魅力やノスタルジア、ファンタジ ー的な突飛さを求めるのです。」 プラダ、ボッテガ・ヴェネタ、ヴェルサーチ、フェ ンディ、グッチが揃って今シーズンのコレクションで 示したのは、過去のファッションは古文書庫の棚で 埃をかぶり時折覗き込むだけのものではなくなった ということ。むしろ現代ファッション界の一部として 生き、息づくものであり、今や新シーズンのコレクシ ョンをクライアントがたちまち欲しくなる服に変貌さ せる要素になっているのだ。


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もう一つ守り抜いてきたのはこのレーベル独特 のスタイル。飽きが来ずシーズンを問わず着られるス タイルと流行に敏感な要素との微妙なバランスだ。 これは、ルイーザ・スパニョーリがゆったりしたシル エットや女性用パンツなど新しいアイデアを取り入れ た20世紀を通して維持されてきた。2017年春夏コレ クションもこのレーベルのパーソナルスタイルを反映 し、ブリジット・バルドーなどのスタイルアイコンを思 わせるブレトンストライプのオフショルダー・ラッフル トップをはじめ、海をテーマとした美しい作品が特徴 だ。その他、ゆるやかなフィットのクロップドジーンズ やソフトなブルーツイードのジャケットは、今シーズン のトレンドをストレートに反映している。 「ルイーザ・スパニョーリのお客様は女性らしさ と実用性を同時に重んじます」と、ニコレッタはいう。 「仕事で旅をし常に移動していますが、フォーマルと カジュアルの別を問わず、時間帯にも関係なくどんな 時も完璧に装いたい人なんです。」最新コレクション はどういった場面にも合い、まさにこのブリーフにぴ ったり。 「トータルルック」という概念をとても大切に するこのブランドは、ニコレッタの指揮の下、品揃え をアクセサリーやジュエリー、バッグまで広げて、ク ライアントが装いを完璧に仕上げられるようにしてき た。 香水を導入したのは2013年。ルイーザと名付け られた(ニコレッタいわく「他の名前は考えられませ んでした。」)この商品は、同ブランドが伝統と近代 性の絶妙なバランスを実現した好例だ。 「会社がア イデンティティを持つということはごくシンプルなこ と。つまり、過去にとらわれることなく、今までの自分 でありつづけること、ルーツを捨て去ることなく変化 していくことなんです。伝統と革新は私にとっては表 裏一体。革新的な選択をしようとする時は必ず、自社 の伝統を組み入れるようにしています。」 ニコレッタが描くビジョンを追求した結果、ルイ ーザ・スパニョーリは、イタリア製服のイメージの開 発強化に寄与した高品質イタリア製品に与えられる レオナルド賞など数々の業界賞を獲得している。だ

が、彼女が一番誇らしく感じている実績は、ルイー ザ・スパニョーリがこれまで一貫して注力してきた「 女性が愛用する服づくり」だ。そして、そんな愛用者 の一人が英国のウィリアム王子妃ケイト・ミドルトンと いうのだから、ニコレッタが同レーベルをいい方向 へ導いているのは確かだ。 「賞をいただけば、それは 誇らしく思います。ただ、自分のキャリアの中で最も 嬉しかったことはといえば、やはりケイト・ミドルトン のハートをつかんだことですね。」ニコレッタが「ス タイルと美の象徴」と称するケンブリッジ公爵夫人 は、いくつもの重要な公式行事でルイーザ・スパニョ ーリを着ている。 こうした王室のお墨付きを得て、このブランドが 今までにも増して影響力を持つことは間違いない。

130: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が 免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に ある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に なります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー?」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを 踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類(タックスフリー・フォーム)を受け取ってくだ さい。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの 還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.94を超えるお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最 高15.5%の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い 戻し額は、付加価値税(VAT)合計から事務手数料 を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くだ さい。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望 の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課 されます。


IN THE BAG Stand out this season with an Orciani Sveva handbag. Handcrafted in Italy, it is available in two sizes and a variety of colours, including blue, orange and pink, as well

as this fiery-toned version made from python skin. Claudio Orciani wanted to create belts which were unlike anything else available and so set up his label in 1979. Claudio later added bags to his offering and has become known for the use of

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high-quality raw materials, outstanding designs and excellent craftsmanship. fm Orciani Sveva handbag, â‚Ź1,245, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, orciani.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 107

PHOTO: BRIGIDAS

SOUVEN I R


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SHOP Milan SS17  

SHOP Milan SS17  

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