LA DOLCE VITA
MARTHA’S CAPE MALAY
Chef Martha Williams, the Western Cape native who is putting Cape Malay cuisine on the culinary map
W
estern Cape’s renowned Five-star Plettenberg Hotel, a member of Relais & Châteaux, is home to the immensely popular Cape Malay Restaurant. Serving Cape Malay cuisine, a fusion of spice-rich and fragrant east-Asian cuisines that developed in the kitchens of the Cape’s South-east Asian community during the Seventeenth century, is growing increasingly popular with South Africans and visitors alike. The restaurant is helmed by Western Cape native Chef Martha Williams. She was recently invited to cook at the Cape Malay Food Festival at Vasco’s, Hilton in Abu Dhabi. She presented a special Cape Malay menu with classics such as Bobotie, Tomato Bredie and Masala Fish along with desserts such as Malva Pudding and koeksisters. “Food is an incredibly important part of Cape Malay culture. Our food reaches into a rich history, and our culinary traditions have travelled down foodways stretching around the world,” Chef Williams said during the event. Chef Williams was born in a small town in Western Cape. Excellent culinary skills run in the family as her mother was a renowned cook. Her mother’s culinary talent and passion were inherited by Chef Williams. A chance meeting with the owner of a Chinese restaurant opened the doors to her first venture as a professional cook. While there, Chef Williams’ exceptional talent was discovered by Liz McGrath, the owner of the Plettenberg Hotel. Chef Williams first worked as a griller for five years at Plettenberg’s Cellars-Hohenort restaurant before being promoted to Breakfast Chef. After just two years, she was the head chef. Chef Williams studied under Cass Abrahams, considered the foremost expert on Cape Malay culture and cuisine, following which the Cap Malay restaurant was opened at the Plettenberg. Since then, with the growing reputation of the restaurant, so has the reputation of Chef Williams. She has been invited to present her specialities at several culinary events and exhibitions, within South Africa and abroad. GC had the pleasure of a brief chat with Chef Williams. She was also kind enough to share with us the recipe to one of her signature dishes. From being influenced by your mom’s cooking at an early age to becoming the Head Chef at Cape Malay restaurant, what has your journey been like? My journey was hard and tough, but I overcame every toughness. I started in a Chinese Restaurant in 1994 as a trainee in the hot kitchen, and the owner got very fond of me and saw my potential in cooking. From then on, my journey as a chef started. How would you describe Cape Malay cuisine? We have heard that it is very similar to Indian cuisine. It is similar to Indian cuisine but varies in the spices used. Cape
Malay cuisine is a product of the early Indian and Maly settlers, and is constantly changing and adapting to the influences of the times. Cape Malay cuisine is always spicy, aromatic and full of flavour. What are the spices traditionally used to prepare Cape Malay food? The spices that I use for my food is the dry, whole spice and the fresh spices. How do you source the ingredients? Are they readily available? Some of my ingredients are readily available, but most are purchased and sourced from a local market. If you had to share one cooking tip with us, what would that be? My cooking tip is to always keep in focus if you want to reach your goal in cooking. What is your go-to Cape Malay food? My go-to Cape Malay food is Bobotie. This is a one of a kind dish for the recipe is from the slavery days of Africa. Which is that one Cape Malay food that we must try making ourselves, and would you, please share the recipe with our readers? Prawn Curry is one dish I would recommend everyone to try. Here’s the recipe Ingredients: 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 spring curry leaves 3-4 green chillies Oil 2-3 teaspoons garlic and ginger paste 2-3 teaspoons mixed masala 1 teaspoon turmeric powder 6 medium-sized jam tomatoes, peeled and pureed 500 g prawns, shelled and alimentary canal removed, but keep tails intact Fresh coriander leaves Method: Stir-fry the onion, curry leaves and chillies in a little-heated oil until the onion is golden brown. Stir in the ginger and garlic paste. Add the masala, turmeric and tomatoes, and braise for a few minutes before simmering until the tomatoes are fragrant. Add the prawns, cover and simmer for another 5 to 7 minutes or until the prawns are done. Season with salt and sprinkle with fresh coriander leaves. 2018 NOV / DEC 96