yummy FOOD. DRINK. LIFE.
FEEL THE GRAIN AFRICAN BREW
Keeping up with the craft stout trend
The secret to perfect pastry
Simple twists on the big lunch
Vol.4.3 March 2018
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EDITOR’S YUMMY NOTE
IN VINO WE ARE VERITAS TAMED
You don’t have to be a wine expert to enjoy a good glass of wine, argues Katy Fentress, ”Whoever has to silver, whoever hasresponsibility jewels, whoever has cattle, whoever has sheep, shallto take a who is happy have passed the of curating this month’s wine section seat at theunarguably gate of whoever grain and pass someone morehas qualified than her.his time there” Ancient Sumerian saying ARevolutions little bit about me: while am, to in history haveI been all intents and purposes, American known to find their spark in the price by birth, I The was French broughtrevolution, up in Italythe and of grains. spent every summer of my life at the Arab spring, even the stunted Unga bottom of a green little valley lost revolution here in Kenya all stem in the of theresistance Chianti wine region. fromhills popular to hikes Growing up, wine was something in the prices of grains. Yet while in that over the grains courseare of the hotof some places the long causes season would be consumed by thirsty popular uprisings, in others they are guests in as monumental quantities; shunned evil foodstuffs that should so much so, that buying be avoided at all costs. the stuff in bottles simply did surprising not make economic It’s not entirely that at sense. Instead, every few days, my some point in the history of modern parents (and later me), would drive man, people would begin to feel up to our local farmer, step into conflicted about grains. After all,his small damp cellar andrepresent fill up a grainsand as we know them, jerrycan’s anything from we one of theworth main of reasons for which 10 to 50 litres of garnet-coloured lead the modern lifestyles we do. redIt’s wine which domestication. gushed out of the all about fibreglass tank with such have vigour, it Received wisdom would it that would leave a good head of foam civilisation through agriculture hasat the top been of ouracontainer. This was always force for good. Yet no fine wine, mind little managing cropsyou, has, and fromcosting the start, more thanserved 50 bobtoaexert litre (yes, youby primarily control read that right, that would be to 1,000 forcing nomadic populations settle now-defunct Italian liras, roughly and ‘behave’. theIfequivalent of one 0.50€ it did you are from oftoday) the many the trick and kept everyone happy. parts of Africa that fell prey to
Unfortunately, thanks to stringent European imperialists, this may health and safety laws imposed by not seem quite so shocking. After the European Union and the fact all, this process of State imposedthat the farmer probably paying control happened allwasn’t too recently taxes on the wine he sold us, byhow 2010 here. Think, for example, about this practice was clamped down the British colonists used maize on and we had as to ainstead getwhich our bulk production tool with wine in the more but certainly to subjugate locallegal communities. less romantic, winelocal bag-in-boxes Something which communities, available from registered cantinas unsurprisingly, resisted. Similarly, (wine cellars) in the area. across the ancient world, there was All thisa to say that while I may have initially strong opposition to the grown up in one of the most famous idea of a single entity monitoring wine areas their of theagricultural world, and output. can at and taxing this probably tellthe a Merlot Inpoint his book “Against Grain”,from the aanthropologist Pinot Noir, I am no wine expert and James C. Scott, argues don’t think I ever willanimals be. Which that fire, plants and are is the why it was so nice to be able to pass three elements that allowed human over theto responsibility of way curating society develop in the it did. this year’s Yummy Wine section He posits that by domesticating to the Josiah who, up fresh from a year former,Kahiu we ended domesticating studying business and oenology ourselves.wine It stands to reason, in Florence, Italy, isbeing far more then, that despite toldqualified that to wax lyrical about the stuff than agriculture leads to civilisation, it I am. might be the case that there is still our third annual wine issue, anFor unconscious deep-rooted part of Iloti Mutoka visited Leleshwa, us that resists this process andour wants favourite Kenyan winery, to celebrate to fight against the symbols of our
its chief winemaker and oenologist own domestication. Emma Nderitu whose career, since So many diets and nutritional we last saw her in 2015, has come fetishes of the last few decades have along in leaps and bounds [p28]. been centred around a total or partial Josiah Kahiu interviews the owner rejection of the very grains that led of Pharley’s Wine Club Tim Challen us to become the humans we are and is excited to on findthe that Kenyans today. Yet while one hand are ideaonofthe taking part in we loving malignthe them, other, these avery monthly wine club [p36] and we elements are at the cornerstone conducted a long phone call with the of much about what we celebrate Italian oenologist Stefano in life: thanks to grains, weMarinari, have to find outcrusty more about the effects delicious sourdough loaves,of global warming on wine production porridge, rice pilau and cakes, not to today [p38] what can be done to mention theand all important vehicles of mitigate them. Think drinking happiness: beer and wine whisky. is just old people? Thinkyou again Lovefor them or hate them, argues Kahiu, who in his feature cannot deny the fact that grains on are the habits of his millennial thedrinking backbone of modern society and peers, howpages, socialyou media in the shows following willissee feeding a whole new wine revolution this celebration discussed over and that doingOn great things forNyayieka the overisagain. page 43, Ivy industry. uncovers a family tradition that Elsewhere in the magazine, Susan involves fermenting maize and millet Wong lucky to getalcoholic a table at the into a is very special drink super Mercado restaurant and inpopular a previous section, she delves and comes back altogether happyand into the history of stout in Africa with the experience [p22], we got its enduring appeal [p32]. Elsewhere Chef Dario Aloisio to prepare us in the magazine Winnie Wangui a
special meal for our Sicilian Table gets comfortable with a pastry chef recipe section [p40], Karanja Nzisa [p28], while our contributor Amal can’t get a discovers delicious meal had in Mohamed that inheIndia, the holy city of Jerusalem out of his oats are celebrated as being “Grains mind [p58] and David Cecil describes of Gods” [p52]. While still on the how a magical Rasta caterer turned subject of grains, Susan Wong uses the vegetarian on hiswhisky film St Patrick’s day,food for which shoot andtenets, depressing is one from of thebland central as an to delicious and invigorating [p60]. excuse to visit the Irish pub The Tav I sincerely hope you enjoy reading [p22]. theIt’s magazine as much as we didif not all grains though and producing it and that at the least, it you really can’t stand to read about will inspire you out of your comfort them, peruse our front of book for zone go and try aand new wine and from all thetolatest news events the delightful selection that Kahiu Anyiko Owoko’s ever popular Hot hand-picked and vetted List [p20] or skip to pageespecially 47 for for you. some simple culinary inspiration for this coming Easter sunday meal.
Katy Fentress Katy Fentress Editor In Chief Editor In Chief
MEET THE IT TEAM
Our IT team has been working round the clock for the past year to make sure you get the most out of the EatOut app. Not familiar with it yet? Well what are you waiting for? Show the guys (and yourself) some love by downloading it on Google/IOS platforms and perusing some of the amazing restaurant deals on offer today.
ASIM MUGHAL-SOFTWARE ENG. Asim believes that the Hill Climb Racing 2 phone game is excellent training for mastering Nairobi’s roads. On his upcoming trip to London he will take advantage of the uninterrupted electricity to finish up some coding he’s been working on.
DOUGLAS AKULA-DEVELOPER Problem solving just comes naturally to Douglas which is why he can’t wait for a chance to get down and focus his mental energies on solving his daily Sudoku puzzle. On his next out of town holiday he plans to go and meet his extended family in Nanyuki.
ERICK KIIYA-DEVELOPER A lover of all motorsports Erick suspects he might have missed his true calling which was to be a rally driver. He believes the slogan ”Real cars, real roads, real fast.” pretty much sums up his passion for the sport.
MICHAEL PEDERSEN-CTO An avid player of Civilization he has been playing this video game pretty much since it was first launched in 1991. Michael loves life in a Kenya but is looking forward to a well deserved break in his home in Denmark.
24 year old Everlyne Oyagi was extremely excited to find out her name had been selected at random for the Bailey’s hamper. CEO at Swazuri Events, she plans to surprise her intern with this unexpected gift.
Dine for Two courtesy of EatOut To win simply tell us what the name of the first Blogger we Love we ever featured in the magazine. Write your answers to firstname.lastname@example.org offer ends March 31st 9.
CONTENTS 28 PASTRY HEAVEN Laurent Grolleau, the new pastry chef at Soko restaurant dustiD2 lets us in on some of the tricks of the trade
FINGER ON THE PULSE 08 Social Scene - Fashion High Tea 11 New Restaurants 12 News and Events 15 EatOut Picks: Panoramic Views 16 Kahawa Diaries: Sylvia Owalla 18 Anyiko’s List: What’s Hot 20 Foodies We Love: Jasmine Macharia TRIED AND TESTED 22 Susan Eats: The TAV 48 In a Pickle: Sour Grains 55 Ask a Wino: Lessons in Cork 59 Man About Town: 60 Culinary Escape: Grains of the Gods
EAT AND IMBIBE 35 Favourite Four: The Irish man’s bar shortlist 36 Bottles: Whisky in grains 41 Busaa: A family history 43 Recipes: Bulgur 3 Ways 50 Easter Spread: Simple twists on the big lunch 55 Wine Corner: Wine and Barrels
BOTTLE SPREAD 34 Feel the Grain; Whisky bottles courtesy of the
following distributors: William Grant & Sons Pernod Ricard Kenya
When it comes to Stout Beer, Africa has a unique history with it and one that Kenyan brewers are proud to contribute to
Viva Global Incodeal Kenya
YUMMY Vol. 4.3 · March 2018 · PUBLISHED BY EATOUT, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. MANAGING DIRECTOR Mikul Shah GM Michelle Slater EDITOR IN CHIEF: Katy Fentress STAFF WRITER Winnie Wangui EDITORIAL INTERN Ivy Nyayieka CONTRIBUTORS Jackson Biko, Josiah Kahiu, Marah Koberle, Amal Mohamed, Anyiko Owoko, Susan Wong DESIGN John Njoroge, Brian Siambi DIGITAL TEAM: Fred Miwthiga, Sylvia Onsoti DISTRIBUTION Leroy Buliro SALES, MARKETING & OPERATIONS Daniel Muthiani, Devna Vadgama, Gilbert Chege, Jane Naitore, Joy Wairimu, Susan Gathara, PHOTOGRAPHY Peter Ndung’u IT Douglas Akula, Erick Kiiya, Asim Mughal SALES INQUIRIES Call Yummy, 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL email@example.com PRINTED BY English Press
#FHT 2018 Nairobiâ€™s most stylish foodie extravaganza took place at Zen Garden earlier in March. Well-heeled fashionistas turned up to watch an exquisite catwalk show, play in the Nairobi Photobooth and indulge in delicious drinks, bites & complimentary Haagen Dazs.
NEW RESTAURANTS YUMMY
SPOIL YOURSELF Mediterranean Delicacies at Karel T-Lounge For full-flavoured Mediterranean food and a comfy ambiance, head over to Karel T- Lounge at Village Market. Their menu includes a delicious dish of fried prawns in Panko breadcrumbs with broccoli and spring onion cream. There’s lots of dessert options including some for people with gluten allergies. eatout.co.ke/karel
LITTLE PLEASURES Simply Delicious at Pharley’s Cafe’ Nestled at the center of Spinners Web on Kitisuru Road is the charming Pharley’s Cafe’. Wizards in making simple food extremely delicious, the guys at Pharley’s never disappoint. Try a tropical smoothie to go with their oh-so-fresh calamari or the chicken meunière. The atmosphere is airy and bookshelves flank the tables. eatout.co.ke/pharleys
TASTE OF PORTUGAL Portuguese Wines and More at StarFire Lounge StarFire Lounge at Lavington Curve Mall takes you on a quick trip to the vineyards in Portugal courtesy of their wide variety of Portuguese wines. Perfect for sundowners, celebratory drinks or just to chill out, a taste of their delightful cocktails, boozy coffee and bitings will leave you yearning for more. eatout.co.ke/starfire
NEWS & EVENTS
GLORIOUS PLEASURES Sample dozens of wines, cheese and chocolates If you are a lover of these three then you are in for a thrill. From the 22nd to 25th March, Westgate Mall will be hosting a Chocolate, Wine and Cheese Festival from 11am to 6pm. Not only will you sample fine wines, delicious cheese and chocolates but you get to buy your favourites throughout the four days. Entry is free. westgate.co.ke
HAIL THE QUEENS Koroga Festival, Back For The 21st Edition Celebrating great African acts, food and culture, The Koroga Festival is back for the 21st Edition at the Carnivore Grounds on 17th - 18th March. This edition will be an ode to African Queens including performances from; Sage Nokwazi, Mercy Masika and the headliner, Nigeriaâ€™s Yemi Alade on Sunday. Advance tickets are Ksh. 2000 available on ticketsasa.com. www.ticketsasa.com
INDULGENCE DRIVE Brunch At The Park On Sunday the 18th of March take advantage of the rare opportunity for an exclusive early morning game drive and brunch, all inclusive experience. For just Ksh. 5,000 per person you have a chance to sit back and enjoy a photoop with the wildlife while being taken care of by expert guides and looking forward to a cocktail at the end of it all. To book, call 0720 816285 / 0736 061932.
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At only 24 years old, Sylvia Owalla stumbled into modeling in a way that seems proof some really have greatness thrust upon them. Now juggling modelling with a career in interior decor and a double-major at USIU, Owalla talks to Ivy Nyayieka about how she got into modelling, her exciting current read and the viral hashtag #PayModelsKe How did you get into modeling? I was working on a shoot and I was to drop an item at a studio. When I walked in the director, Bobby Garcia, was shouting at me asking why I am late. I had no idea what he was talking about. When he realised I was not the model they were waiting for, he apologised and requested me to replace the model who was late. The team did my hair and makeup and later used me in two more of their personal projects. I got more jobs thanks to the few images I had done with them. What do you usually have for breakfast? It depends. I don’t like white tea but I can have nearly anything else. Be it porridge or coffee or black tea- most things are fine with me. Fruits are great too. What do you order when you go to a coffee shop? Most of the time I ask for white coffee and a muffin. I like my coffee concentrated but with A LOT of sugar. What do you like to read when having coffee? I love reading. I am currently reading a book called A Path Not Taken. It is a story of Joseph Murumbi. There’s a newly opened coffee shop at school so I go there for coffee and some reading during my free time.
If you could meet anyone in the modelling industry for coffee who would it be? Locally, I’d love to meet the designer Deepa Dosaja. I love how she doesn’t conform to the presumption that African designers have to use African print. Her designs are not focussed on that. They’re fresh and beautiful and something anyone can wear. I look forward to working with her one day. Tell me about #PayModelsKe Well, #PayModelsKe was a good hashtag to give an insight on how the modeling industry is in Kenya. However, as models, if we are informed, I don’t think we’d have such experiences. Once you know what you are worth, what type of model you are, how agencies work and the amount of pay you deserve in what particular job, I don’t think you can fall victim to such instances. Have you had instances personally where people have asked you to work for free? Yes. But if I know it is a lucrative business that’s requesting me to do a job and I am aware that they can pay me, I usually turn down such offers. Modelling is a profession so you need to take a model as seriously as you would take your business. I also focus on personal projects that I know will either elevate me or put me on the map instead of doing free jobs
that are not really reputable in my portfolio. What support would you like to see agencies giving models? Right now, for agencies, it’s a matter of sending messages on Whatsapp and asking people to show up for auditions under their name. Then they just take their cut once you get the job. I don’t think that’s how agencies should function. They need to learn how to scout models and focus on how they can build them. So if you scout a commercial model you need to understand that you need to find jobs that fit this model. What inspires your passion to push for black diversity? I push for black models because I know there are not so many opportunities for us. Deddeh Howard, a blogger who also campaigns for black diversity abroad, did a shoot where she replicated the same look and the same poses that white models had when they shot for highly endorsed products such as Victoria’s Secret. When I started talking about black diversity, I was not really sure what to expect. But Deddeh Howard saw my posts and she appreciated what I was pushing for. That gave me a boost of confidence especially since I expected some backlash but it never happened.
PANORAMIC DINING We know you are expecting us to give you the top restaurants in Nairobi with balcony views but the city hosts an array of great restaurants which - for reasons we shall refrain from speculating on, serve amazing food while overlooking slightly less romantic parking lots. Truth is, we love them and thought they deserved a category of their own. And so you have it: the essential list of great Nairobi restaurants that give onto parking lots!
NEWS CAFE (SARIT CENTRE) Attention is in the detail for this popular spot which has quickly become the go-to place for a delicious bite for anyone visiting Sarit centre. Their offers, which range from breakfast to happy hour, are definitely worth taking advantage of. This restaurant with a balcony offers some of the best lit spaces in the entire mall. NYAMA MAMA (DELTA TOWERS) With bright African prints adorning the seats and a great funky decor to boot, this is one restaurant that will brighten your mood the moment you walk in. Forget about the Delta Tower parking lot and the highway next door, their creative twists on African
dishes, unique cocktails and artist performances never disappoint. OCEAN BASKET (THE OVAL) Popular for their fresh seafood, Ocean Basketâ€™s location at The Oval overlooks the busy Ring rd Parklands. SInce opening its doors to Nairobian seafood lovers four years ago, this South African franchise has gone from culinary strength to strength. Their drinks menu is also worthy of note, with an extensive wine selection and cocktails to suit your every taste. TAPAS CEVICHE BAR (WESTGATE) The intimate set up at this Spanish restaurant set on a balcony at the
ground floor of Westgate Shopping Mall is the perfect backdrop for a quick lunch or hanging out over drinks with friends while checking out the activity on the road and parking lot beyond. Delightful plates of ceviche, octopus, vegetarian tastings and paella are one of the best showcases for Spanish flavours our city has to offer. THE TAV (THE MIRAGE) Standing as one of the few Irish pubs in Nairobi, its patio set up on the broad terrace of the Mirage building in Westlands, allows for one to easily observe and sit-out the incessant evening traffic down below on Waiyaki way. The decor has a rustic feel with leather lounges, wooden furniture and
large screens which are perfect for catching a game. URBAN EATERY (DELTA TOWERS) Four kitchens, all with an open plan design and cool blackboards on all the walls, make dining at Urban Eatery a theatrical experience; you donâ€™t even notice the other view from the PWC Towers. Asian, Mexican, Mediterranean and Indian cuisines are served here. A signature bar is also on site for your after-work tipple. Find out more by downloading the EatOut app in order to enjoy amazing discounts at these and more restaurants around the city.
ANYIKO’S LIST YUMMY
WHAT’S HOT Publicist to the stars Anyiko Owoko has this month been selected as one of 100 women honorees for OkayAfrica’s 2018 #OKAY100Women list, a move which further cements her enviable position on the regional media panorama. In this issue, she dines with the Global Head of Operations for Apple Music Beats 1, samples Nairobi’s best Chicken Tikka and then attends its coolest festival. Tastiest Food If you love Indian cuisine then you know that Nargis Restaurant still is Nairobi’s best kept secret. I dine at Nargis at least thrice a week and their Chicken is the best I’ve had in my life. You have to try their Chicken Tikka and Chicken Chooza both paired with freshly baked Naan Bread. Make sure you go for the extra hot –it’s spicy, fresh and lipsmackingly good! Thank me later. eatout.co.ke/nargis-restaurant
Coolest Event 2018 edition of Africa Nouveau Festival was a 2-day event that went down on the first week of February. Africa Nouveau brings creators, curators and fans from Africa and its diaspora to Nairobi and I never anticipated that I’d find such cool vendors selling art pieces. The festival also collaborated with The British Council to produce a live fashion book—so basically cool and fancy-looking attendees were invited to an open studio high fashion shoot for the Fashion Book to be released soon. It goes without saying that I was featured!
Most Relevant Quote Six months ago I dined with Julie Pilat – who currently serves as the Global Head of Operations for Beats 1 (Apple Music’s Worldwide Station) at the Carnivore Restaurant. You can imagine how deep a conversation on African music vis-à-vis global sounds we had. Her tales from her visit to Kenya’s Sarara in the Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust made me so proud to be Kenyan. “Last summer I fell in love. The days I spent at Sarara walking amongst giraffes, meditating with elephants,
and bonding with the local tribes in Northern Kenya will be with me for the rest of my life. I truly think, even on a cellular level, that time in nature changed me.” Get to know more about Sarara and conservation in Northern Kenya via www.theideafountain.co
Best Discovery I’ve been addicted to chillies and anything hot for as long as I can remember. I never really found the hottest chillies and I had been searching until I bumped into The Chilli Doctor – a company that works closely with chilli growers and producers from Peru, Mexico, Thailand and India. We ordered the Maca Bhut Jolokia, Trinidad Scorpion Moruga and Carolina Reaper online. They got delivered to Czech Republic and then some friends brought them to us in Kenya. Such a long journey to satisfaction but so worth it! I found out that Guinness World Records crowned Carolina Reaper as the hottest chili in the world after the previous record holder, the Trinidad Scorpion. With these fiery babies, even if you pour a whole gallon of water into your mouth to quell the fire – it doesn’t work. Here is where small drops really count.
Favourite Movie Everyone is talking about the latest Disney-Marvel movie Black Panther and it’s worth all the hype! In the movie, our very own Oscar winner Lupita Nyong’o name-drops Kenya. She is Nakia the spy and alongside Danai Gurira – Okoye, the two are fierce fighters of the kingdom guards known as the Dora Milaje. It’s so refreshing to see how through the
storyline, costumes, makeup and hair the film celebrates black culture and heritage. Its costume designer Ruth Carter actually mentioned that the Milaje uniforms shade of red was inspired by the Maasai and Turkana people of Northwest Kenya. It’s also now official that the movie is the top-grossing film in history by a black director (Ryan Coogler), after “Straight Outta Compton.”
Item of the Month I have an obsession for Maasai beads and I found out that the people behind the local jewellery designer - Own Your Culture - are also as obsessed. Their tagline reads: “Decolonising fashion – one traditional piece at a time.” Their Maasai beaded neck pieces are unique but my recent purchase from them was the winner! I just got heavy rounded brass earrings whose design is inspired by traditional Meru ornaments for men. I love items with a story to tell and Own Your Culture create ornaments that document heritage and a vast culture.
Next month, I will be chatting with Africa’s most prolific female artiste – Yemi Alade – who is set for her debut concert in Nairobi this month! Can’t wait to share with you!
#LifeOutsideTheMall Tin Roof Cafes are Nairobi's coolest gastro-cafes offering an impressive range of healthy salads, toasted sandwiches, burgers, pizzas and sweets. We are open for breakfast and lunch and have options for those looking to be gluten free or vegan. We are also aware of our environmental footprint so source locally grown produce and do our best to avoid single use plastics. We pride ourselves on being located away from busy malls in quiet, green spaces.
For directions to your nearest Tin Roof Cafe or to view our menu please visit
ON THE LINE
PHOTO FRED MWITHIGA
FOODIES WE LOVE Whether you’re not that great in the Kitchen or you’re out to fine tune your skills, @CookingWithJaz has a solution for every hungry soul. If you’re a lonely single with no kitchen experience and are quite frankly, exhausted from fast food runs, you need to sign up for one of Jasmine Macharia’s culinary classes before they sell out. The bubbly 27 year old food blogger, cookbook author, food entrepreneur and chef by profession is all about making the process easy and the product delicious. You don’t have to take my word for it, a trip to her Instagram page - @cookingwithjaz, shows off her carefully prepared meals and satisfied clients brimming with joy. Despite her love for food, it’s been a journey getting to where she is today. She first fell in love with the kitchen when she was 10 years old and taught herself how to cook by watching her mum and poring over cooking shows on T.V. Once the Internet became a sensation, the ever curious Jasmine would spend hours in a cyber café downloading recipes and trying them out for her family and friends. Soon after she graduated high school, she
moved to Spain to study culinary arts and restaurant management before moving back to Kenya to help run the family business in 2010. It wasn’t long before she needed to get back to her first love. After spending over 6 years in a job that had nothing to do with her passion for food, Cooking With Jaz was born. In the short span that she’s been active, Jasmine has accomplished more than she would have thought. Her most memorable experience? “Launching my book Breakfast with the King. A whole 250 people came out to the launch all the way in my hometown. I still can’t believe how well it was received. I also can’t forget to mention winning the Gourmand World Cookbook award for ‘Best in Kenya,’ and getting nominated in 3 more categories against 100+ countries! I can’t wait to attend the awards in May all the way in China to be honored as one of the top 3 African cuisine books in the world.” But it doesn’t stop there. She’s looking to become a household
brand - something bigger than herself. This year, she releases her second cookbook, which she says is already better than the first after learning from past mistakes and victories. As much as she loves to cook, she’s never one to back down from a dinner date with her husband. In her words “Hubby and I love anywhere with a rooftop view (say Brew Bistro in Westlands) but food wise I must say we are down for Mama Rocks Burgers any day. It may not sound romantic but they are one of the few restaurants in Nairobi that have been consistent in their taste and quality which is key in us having a good night. There’s no romance when the food is whack, right?!” Her Cocopine Pancakes is her favorite recipe which she created for her first cookbook out of the love she had for cocopine juice when she was growing up. If you would love to try fluffy pancakes topped with caramelized pineapple chunks, here’s the recipe.
COCOPINE PANCAKES Ingredients: 1 cup coconut milk 2 eggs ¼ cup sugar 1 cup flour Coconut oil Syrup For the topping: Chopped pineapple chunks ½ cup desiccated coconut 2 tablespoons brown sugar DIRECTIONS Crack and beat the eggs for about 30 seconds to trap the air. This helps in making the pancakes fluffy. Follow by adding the sugar and whisking with the eggs. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well until the batter is smooth. Heat a tablespoon coconut oil in a pan and add one heaped spoon of the batter. Leave to cook until the top starts to form bubbles, after which you can flip and allow the other side to cook. Remove from heat and repeat the process until you have a stack of pancakes. In another pan heat the brown sugar and pineapple chunks until they begin to caramelize. Follow by adding the desiccated coconut and stir everything well together. After about 2 minutes, remove from heat and serve on top of the pancakes. Enjoy with a drizzle of syrup.
The exact recipe of Irish Stew is rarely consistent from place to place
A TOUCH OF IRELAND Susan Wong often feels nostalgic on St Patrick’s day and loves the fact that there now is an Irish bar in the city she can visit whenever the mood calls. For some, St. Patrick’s Day is the observance of the death of the patron saint of Ireland. For others, it’s a day where across the world, partygoers celebrate Irish culture, special foods, beer and a whole lot of green. For me, it’s my sister’s birthday so, every year, I add a birthday cake to that mix. My sister isn’t much of a drinker but she’s socially dynamic, charismatic and popular. In university, I remember celebrating her birthday at pubs despite her no drinking policy. Surrounded by pints of green beer, we’d celebrate Sarah’s birthday by “drowning the shamrock”. We’d revel in delicious foods such as a good hearty Irish Stew, Apple Cake with Custard Sauce and a gigantic gooey
brownie as a birthday cake. In Nairobi, on St. Patrick’s Day, I often look for a restaurant or bar for a dose of nostalgia. This year, The Tav Irish Pub and Eatery will be celebrating its second year of serving-up Irish flair to Nairobians. Located at The Mirage building, this massive laidback watering-hole features a broad terrace with a bar. Barrels and stained wooden tables and chairs and corrugated metal give the space a rustic feel. Strategically placed flat screens make this an ideal place to watch live sports. Inside, another bar opens up to a cavernous loft space while upstairs, more seating is available, features black and white photographs of coopers, and
overlooks a vibrant wall mural. The staff is relaxed, engaging and very helpful. Mind you, when I went there with my companions, there were only a few tables. So during a happy hour rush, things could be very different. Teriyaki Chicken Wings and Dublin Spud Skins were the first to arrive. When ordering chicken wings, tucked in the back of my mind, I always worry about chewing on dried and overcooked wings. Thankfully, in Tav’s case, the Teriyaki Chicken Wings were not only flavourful, but incredibly moist. The Teriyaki sauce was balanced of savoury and sweet, and similar to the Japanese classic glaze that’s become a mainstay in
kitchens all over the world. The spud skins arrived crispy and caramelised, loaded with cheddar cheese, red and yellow bell peppers, smokey bacon bits, mashed potatoes, and served with sour cream. A crowd favourite, these spud skins are perfect for an evening of drinking. I’m happy to report that there are no watery stews here! The Irish Stew arrived steaming hot and aromatic. Like all traditional folk dishes, the exact recipe of Irish Stew is rarely consistent from place to place. But what remains consistent is the combination of mutton or lamb, carrots, potatoes, onions and parsley. In the Tav’s version, coriander featured heavily, which I didn’t mind. The stew is gorgeously thick, almost like a thin gravy. The flavours were deep and complex. Perfect for a blustery March day in Canada or after a tiring and long work day in Kenya, there’s no greater comfort than a hearty Irish stew. Aside from the name, I’m not sure what makes the Celtic Beef Burger, Irish. But when this impressive tower of burger, bacon, sausage and fried egg arrived to the table, none of those questions mattered. Beautifully stacked, this burger had the flavours to match. The beef was overdone for my liking, but the seasoning and flavours were really delicious. I personally prefer a coarser chuck, but the texture of the patty was still enjoyable. The patty to bread ratio was balanced, and the chips that came with the burger were delectably crispy. To finish, the Apple Crumble did not disappoint. I only wished there was more! As for the Gooey Chocolate Brownie, the moist chocolate square was rich and revealed a gooey center as promised. If you’re looking for a bit of Irish flare this month, The Tav is a good place to begin. In fact, if a Green Party is what your heart desires, Dj Kace will be on the decks this St. Patrick’s Day. I’ll finish this with one piece of cautionary advice: wear comfortable footwear that has good grip. The owners of the building chose an incredible slippery tile for the space that can send you flying if you’re not paying attention (I unintentionally went skating). So, if you’re planning to head to The Tav for an evening of Irish merry making, leave the heels home and go ready to have a long night of fun! Susan Wong was a Guest at The Tav eatout.co.ke/tav
PHOTOS PETER NDUNGâ€™U
There is no such thing as an easy pastry to make
TEXT WINNIE WANGUI
FLAKY HEAVEN We sit down with accomplished Pastry Chef Laurent Grolleau who recently joined Soko Restaurant at dusitD2 Nairobi to discover the secret of making flaky pastry and how he intends to bring worldwide pastry trends to the menu A much-appreciated cool breeze hits me as I walk through the doors of the bright and airy Zing Bar at dusitD2 Boutique Hotel, Nairobi where I’m supposed to be meeting the new pastry Chef Laurent Grolleau. A chilled glass of tropical juice is the saving grace I needed after surviving the trip from the office on this extra hot Wednesday afternoon. We sit on the lounge area, away from the path of the servers who are up and about, preparing for a busy evening. The chef, fresh from our photoshoot and still dressed in full Chef’s regalia, soon joins me. French national Chef Laurent Grolleau, has been at Soko for only three weeks, when I meet him for this interview. Standing about 5’4’, bespectacled, with streaks of white hair crowning his over 25 years of experience, Chef Laurent’s career spans the globe from France to Dubai, Kuwait and Qatar and then onto Cairo and Brazil. I tell him he doesn’t look like someone who has amassed all those years of experience and he confides that the shot of espresso and dark chocolate he takes every morning is the secret to his youthful looks.
A pastry chef by accident, Chef Laurent’s journey began when the restaurant where he was training in England faced a major crisis. The head pastry chef was away on vacation and the sous chef fell ill. Being the pastry chef in training, the responsibility of the restaurant’s pastries fell on his hands but as luck would have it, his supervisors were so impressed with his creations that they had him stay in the pastry section where his love for the medium began to grow. “The secret to making the flaky pastry lies in following the recipe to the tee,” he advises. ‘While I may have created lots of pastry items, my favourite has to be the Opera, a French cake made with layers of almond sponge cake soaked in coffee syrup, layered with ganache and coffee butter cream and covered in a chocolate glaze”. Admitting that there is no such thing as an easy pastry to make, Chef Laurent insists that the trick to churning out perfectly moist, yet flaky pastry also relies on the chef’s passion and creativity. “Simple recipes do exist but even these can go wrong,” he underlines, somewhat contradicting his earlier statement.
According to Chef Laurent, if you want to make a perfect flaky pastry you just have to follow three basic rules. The first, you have to be strict: from buying the right ingredients to making sure your measurements are right. The second is that you have to respect the process—there are no shortcuts to baking. Third, you have to be creative as food, is first consumed with the eyes. “If you see something sexy.” he confides in his French lilt, “you want it, right? The same applies to pastry - first focus on the looks then the taste will follow”. While desserts and pastries are presumed to have a substantial amount of sugar, Chef Laurent prefers his creations a tad less sweet but still bright and colourful. He is extremely excited to see the recent pastry trends leaning towards less sugar and more fruits and he fully intends to include this recipe approach into his restructuring of Soko’s dessert and pastry menu. He adds, however, that finding some ingredients here in Kenya is challenging with some that just have to be imported and that even these can get quite difficult to source when he is the only one in the country making the order.
Chef Laurent looks forward to taking these first few weeks to better learn the Kenyan market and customers’ tastes and preferences and promises to create a menu that will include both treats for sweet tooths and deliciously decadent, yet sugar light pastries, to satisfy the more health conscious among us! eatout.co.ke/soko-at-dusit-d2
CROISSANT 750g flour 360g water 105g caster sugar 15g salt 15 15g dry yeast 375g fresh butter METHOD 1. Use eggs straight from the fridge. 2. Knead all the ingredients except for the butter. 3. Knead for 5 minutes with hook attachment in a stand mixer in 1st speed. 4. Knead for 3 more minutes in 2nd speed until the dough stops sticking to the wall of the bowl. 5. Roll out the dough at 8 mm high, size 30cm x 40 cm and keep in the freezer for 1 to 2 hours (or keep in the chiller overnight). 6. Open the butter with rolling pin to make a square shape 6mm high. 7. Pour the butter onto the cold dough and close the dough onto the butter. 8. Do one book fold and open with the rolling pin, turn the dough for 90 degrees Celsius and repeat one more fold. 9. Leave to rest in the fridge for 10 minutes. 10. Roll out to 3.5 mm thickness. Roll length 300 x 400 mm and cut into a triangular shape with 80 mm on the base. 11. Roll it, put the croissant onto a silicone mat or baking sheet and brush with egg wash. 12. Leave to ferment for 2 hours in a hot room or local temperature at 25 degrees Celsius. 13. Bake at 175 degrees Celsius for 16 or 18 minutes
YUMMY GRAIN TO GLASS
AFRICAN BREW With their focus on developing amazing craft beers and stout, Kenyan breweries are bang on the worldwide trend, discovers Ivy Nyayieka as she researches the rise of the African stout. The aroma that welcomes you into the newly opened Brew Tap Room in Galleria Mall is reminiscent of the scent inside one of those coffee shops that have an in-house bakery. Mounted on the wall as you enter is a series of kegs that looks like a control panel. On the next section, bottles of craft beers from around the world look like they are floating in the air with the same abandon of dancing partygoers. Even though there are already a number of diners inside, Brew Tap Room boasts an airy ambiance with the large windows looking out into the parking lot and the road, allowing all the light in. As a Kenyan, there are specifically Kenyan things that fill you with pride: The Big Five; a Kenyan winning the Olympics; Lupita Nyong’o killing it in
Black Panther; a Nigerian man insisting Kenyan women drink too much Guinness. In recent years, another reason for Kenyans to be proud is the fact that we now have craft breweries that make beers and stouts from scratch. If you are wondering how stouts are differentiated from other beers, you could try asking Lawrence Nunda, Head Brewer at The Big Five Breweries - the parent company of Brew Bistro and more recently, Brew Tap. Nunda, however, will probably look at you with pity and then, as if remembering that acts of charity are good for the fate of his soul, carefully explain to you that beers are mostly divided into lagers, ales and most recently wheat brews. “There are so many ales. Stout is an ale,” the expert on brewing will
tell you, towering in his white coat and hairnet. The world’s best selling stout is Diageo’s Guinness Draught, which is classified as a dry stout. Made in Dublin, this is the backbone upon which most stouts are conceived. Guinness’ journey from Dublin to Africa, which currently consumes 40% of all Guinness produced worldwide, began in 1827 when they shipped Guinness Foreign Extra Stout first to the British Colony of Sierra Leone and then to other colonies where their soldiers were stationed. To start with, Guinness collaborated with local breweries to bottle the beer and then, in 1962, Lagos became the home of the first successful Guinness brewery outside of the UK. In African countries, Guinness
switched from using barley to maize or sorghum because, although they were more bitter, they were ingredients used for existing local brews and thus more attractive to consumers. Guinness in Kenya boasts a higher alcohol content (6.5%) than Ireland’s (4-5%) but slightly lower than Nigeria’s (7.5%). Stronger alcohol levels were originally due to the fact the Irish brewers used to add more hops to the drink in order to preserve it when it was transported to Africa. By the time local Guinness breweries had popped up around the continent, people had gotten used to the stronger version. Like Guinness, The Big Five Breweries evolved the flavour profiles of its in-house stout, Temstout, in order to match local palates. “We had to adapt a couple of the recipes so
friends at Brew Tap Room. The Brew establishments exclusively serve their own stouts at their three outlets around the city. Ladak admits this was quite a risky gamble and that in order to attract people who could have shied away from the nouveau beer, Ladak’s team was careful to tailor both the menu and the entertainment around customers’ preferences. When asked about who the establishment’s target demographic is, Ladak answers: “Young professionals who have disposable income who want to experience something different”. Mostly, these are 25 to 45-year-olds, from people who’ve just finished college and have their first jobs, to people working in SME’s, investments and trading. To keep customers coming, Ladak also tweaked the restaurant menu. He explains that: “When we first opened we had a lot of fine dining food but the style of food now is more bistro or pub-y. It’s still good food but it’s more casual dining and that’s what people prefer.” Ultimately, he says, the secret to their success has been in understanding that primarily, “people just want a comfortable environment where everyone feels they can be themselves” and that their love for the craft beer was simply a result of this feeling.
PHOTOS PETER NDUNG’U
that they are not too hoppy, spicy or strong,” says Aleem Ladak, a self-proclaimed beer freak and the company’s brewmaster and managing director. “All the names of the beers are derived from the Swahili names of animals and the style of beer,” says Ladak. Temstout comes from tembo for elephant. Like an elephant, Temstout is strong, full-bodied and dark in color. “How will you determine the full body? The mouthfeel it gives you: ukikunywa beer, you feel ni kama mdomo imejaa [if you drink the beer you feel as if your mouth is full]. A full bodied beer will fill that mouth,” explains Nunda. While crafting the recipe, Ladak explains the company wanted the craft beer to appeal to Kenyans as well as tourists, “We wanted it to relate to the region and one of the things that relate to the region is the big five animals. Everyone knows them, so we felt it would help tap into the tourist market.” Through the growing craft beer options at Brew’s outlets and Sierra,
the line of premium beers brewed by the owner of Sierra Brasserie, Kenyans join a worldwide trend and one that Ladak is proud to be part of. “I moved back to Kenya ten years ago because I saw a gap in the market and that was in the craft beer market which was a big industry all around the world: in North America, Europe, South Africa and Asia,” he says. At Brew Tap Room, if you follow the sound of something steaming and the can-you-smell-what-the-rock-iscooking aroma, you end up in a steel world behind the bar where all the brewing magic happens. To make Temstout, Brew Tap Room follows the German Beer Purity Law known as Reinheitsgebot. “That basically means that you can only use hops, water, yeast and malt to make beer and no other grains or spices,” says Ladak. First, Nunda’s team mills a malt blend containing chocolate malt into a coarse flour. While chocolate malt is low in extraction, it is rich in color and is responsible for the stout’s dark color and coffee aroma. The coarse flour is mixed with water in the
mashing process to produce a thick sugar solution called wort. The aroma resulting from this conversion signals to them that it is successful. The mash is then pumped into a lauter tank, a filtration system which separates the thick sugar solution from the barley grain husks. This thick sugar syrup is pumped into a wort kettle and boiled for 90 minutes to sterilise the products. At this stage, they also add hops in order to determine the brew’s bitterness and aroma and to act as a preservative. After cooling to around 16-18 degrees, the wort is pumped into a fermenter where they add the ale yeast. After fermentation, the tank is cooled to around 3 degrees allowing the green beer to mature. The next step is to filter the beer to get the crystal clear product and then keg it into barrels. As an ale, stout differs from lagers in the yeast variety required, the higher fermentation temperatures and speeds, and the fact that the yeast used is top fermenting. It takes around 12 to 15 days from the start of brewing to the point where you can sit down to enjoy a Temstout with
GUINNESS TRIVIA Pregnant and nursing women in the 1920’s in the U.K. were encouraged to take Guinness because research suggested people, felt better after a pint. What a time. Research suggests Guinness improves bone density and is good for the heart, but nobody actually wants to put their name on this. To drink Guinness, your elbow must first be perpendicular to the floor, then you drink right through the head until you taste the roasted body. Brewers worldwide add a concentrated essence brewed in Ireland to ensure Guinness maintains its original Dublin flavour. The Guinness Book of World Records was made to settle a pub argument.
FEEL THE GRAIN
PHOTOS PETER NDUNGâ€™U
YUMMY MAN ABOUT TOWN
GRAINS OF WISDOM The time when Jackson Biko called out all the useless men who turn up empty handed. If you are going to show up at a girl’s house this Easter please carry a drink. If she doesn’t drink, then at least carry a piece of bread. Something French. A baguette. Or brioche. Never mind that she will probably say that she’s gluten intolerant. Believe me, she will eat it one day when she comes home pissed from a night on the tiles with her friends. If she doesn’t eat it, one of her girlfriends will. Or her cat. There is something to be said about taking a woman bread even if her cat ends up eating it. It’s almost Biblical - you know, Jesus and his five loaves of bread? You can’t go wrong with flowers, so carry a nice bunch (not roses!) if she’s on a diet - half of Nairobi is anyway, including some selective men who have grown so bold they now announce that they are “off carbs.” I am told that we are truly badly behaved as Kenyan men. I wouldn’t know, I don’t date men, but I will take the words of the ladies who do. I did
a quick poll (OK, three female friends) and up there with men who remove their socks in a woman’s house are men who show up with nothing. Women hate it. Carry something apart from your jokes. Also don’t bring a drink you like to drink, bring a drink she enjoys to drink. You will be happy to learn that there is a whole section on wine in this cool magazine that can help in case you want to take her wine. But if you have no time to read that column, then please nip into a supermarket and pick a bottle by it’s label, or its price, or just pick Catena Malbec because I know a girl who swears by it and because she has great taste in many things it must be a decent choice. Picking a drink, any drink, is better than ringing the bell and leaning on her doorpost with your rumbled and very fake “Idris grin.” A man who shows up with a drink - even a terrible one - says something about himself. He says he respects himself
and her company. But it shouldn’t stop there. Take a drink to any invitation of a house party. I don’t have the handbook on cool but I don’t think it would be cool to show up at a house-party with bread. Even if the host is French. So, a drink it is. There are chaps who show up at parties with cheap drinks they wouldn’t drink, then when handed a glass reach for an expensive drink they wouldn’t bring to a party. Uhm, that’s cheap. Rule of thumb: bring it only if you can drink it. And now that we are talking about cheap, the other important rule this Easter is knowing when to leave a party. Some folk don’t know when to walk away from the table, they wait until they are led out and put in an Uber, whilst singing and trying to kiss someone. People might find it funny that time and laugh, but they will never forget your nuisance and such things travels faster than a Retweet in this borough.
Nobody will remember that you are the guy who brought the Glenmorangie Signet Selection to the party if you make a complete ass of yourself. Nobody will remember that you are the guy who brought the Glenmorangie Signet Selection to the party if you make a complete ass of yourself. The rule of thumb is always to leave the party when you are having the most fun, not when you can’t pronounce the host’s name.
Gatuiri Mwangi @Leotunapika
HAM & CHEESE NOODIES BAKE INGREDIENT LIST 2-3 Medium White Onion 3 Cloves Garlic (minced) Tinned Tomatoes Handful Basil 1tsp Sugar 1 Tbsp Balsamic Vinegar Sandwich Ham Grated Mozzarella Grated Cheddar Noodies - Beef Mchuzi
METHOD 1. 2.
Saute onion and garlic for 1 min, on high then cover for 2 mins. Next add in tinned tomatoes, Stir for 10 secs, and then add in sugar, balsamic vinegar and basil. Stir and cover for another 2 mins Next add in the noodies seasoning and stir for 10 secs. Reduce the mixture by half and set aside in a bowl for later. Add noodies into the mixture, then coat with the remaining tomato mixture. Begin to layer the ham on top of the Sauce and Noodies, followed by cheese, then cook for 3 mins. Serve on a plate with more cheese and basil to garnish
As seen on www.jikoniyetu.com
Clare Karatu @clare_karatu
PRAWN VEG STIR FRY
1 Medium Red Onion 1 Carrot Â½ Cup Sugar Snaps 1 Red Capsicum 1/3 Cup Sweet Corn 5-6 Prawns 1 Tsp Ginger Garlic Paste Lemon 2 Tbsp Sweet and Sour Chilli Sauce Noodies - Chicken Flavour
Season Prawns with Salt, black pepper, ginger garlic paste. Then set aside. Stir fry ingredients in this order onion, Carrots, sugar snaps, Red Capsicum, Sweet corn, Shrimp, Ginger & garlic paste, Salt and Pepper. Add in sweet chilli sauce, toss, then set aside Serve Noodies in a bowl with the prawn stir fry and a wedge of lemon
As seen on www.jikoniyetu.com
Jayson Mbogo - @jaytakeapic
EGG FRY NOODIES
2 eggs Noodies - Chicken Flavour 1 Onion 2 Garlic cloves Baby Spinach Spring onion Soy sauce Cashew nuts Cooking oil.
Beat 2 eggs in a bowl, season with salt and pepper. Then cook and set aside. Cook Noodies as per packet instructions, then drain and set aside. Save the water Chop onion and garlic SautĂŠ onion and garlic for 3 mins then add baby spinach and cook for 2 mins. Add in cooked egg, Cashew nuts, soy sauce, Mix then add in noodies. Add some noodies water then mix. Serve on a plate & garnish with fresh spring onion.
As seen on www.jikoniyetu.com
Jasmine Macharia @cookingwithjaz
NOODIES & BEEF
Beef Steak Noodies - Beef Mchuzi Sliced Ginger Black peppercorns 1 bay leaf 1 Onion 1 Carrot Dhania 2 Garlic cloves
3. 4. 5.
Saute onion, garlic, sliced ginger, Black peppercorns, Carrots, dahnia stalks, Bay leaf for 3 mins Season steak with salt and pepper, then sear on both sides for 1 min, then set aside to rest. Cook Noodies as per packet instructions then set aside.. Slice the beef into thin strips, Serve noodles in a bowl with the beef, fresh chilli and dhania.
As seen on www.jikoniyetu.com
FAMILY BREWS Ivy Nyayieka sets out to uncover what’s in the pot her grandmother has always jealously guarded in the corner of her kitchen
How does my grandmother make busaa? “Listen carefully,” she says:
Inside my grandmother’s kitchen, in a clay pot the height of a four-year old me, was a brown porridge-looking liquid, with a green steel plate for cover. On the plate sat a steel cup which on one side endlessly salivated a thick brown film. My grandmother, or Dana as we call her, likes to laugh except at the moment you near her pot eating an orange at which point she sternly chases you away. This confounded a young me to silence but as an adult, I decided to set out and solve the mystery of the contents of the mysterious pot. “Busaa is a traditional beer which is very popular in Nyanza, Western and some parts of Rift Valley,” explains my Uncle Passy, a retired accountant who owns a busaa business in Aboke, Siaya. He explains to me that traditionally, busaa was used for ceremonies such as marriages, funeral gatherings and for celebrating a plentiful harvest. How does my grandmother make busaa? “Listen carefully,” she says:
“Grind maize grains to get flour; put it in a metal pot; add water; let it sleep for 3 days; fry it; pour it into a small Superdrum; grind millet flour; stir it into the superdrum mixture; pour into a new Superdrum and add water. Leave it for a day. Then stir and stir. Until your arm bruises, she says. Then leave it for 3 days. Then sieve it through a clean sack. Oranges interfere with fermentation. Dana learnt the art of busaa brewing from her mother when she was younger. She says if I want to learn, I have to go to my father’s sister because, she laughs, my own mother is saved and does not know about alcohol. Dana started making busaa when my grandfather retired. He loved it and it got her very good money too. She would sell a tin of the secondlargest Blueband filled to the brim for 3 shillings. “We don’t actually employ people but we just give them a day to brew,” says Uncle Passy, explaining that: “Everybody has his or her day. I lease the premises and I have the necessary licenses so they pay me a daily rate of 300 shillings”. Apart from getting security approval, he also must get a license from the Ministry of Health to confirm that the premises conform tothe Kenya Bureau of Standards health norms, to ensure the alcohol content is less than 4.7%. Like my grandmother, Uncle Passy started his business as a source of income. Currently, what my grandmother sold for 3 shillings costs 30 to 40 shillings. “Although the price is low, the turnover is high so in most cases we sell more than those who sell factory beers,” he tells me. His other motivation comes from a sense of loyalty: “My father had it and
I did not want the business to die.” According to Uncle Passy, demand for busaa is increasing because of higher living standards, However, he does worry about rising levies. Every year he says he pays the Liquor Licensing Board, the Kenya Bureau of Standards, the county government, the Ministry of Health and the Music Society of Kenya fees totalling 38,250 shillings but that still does not stop him occasionally falling prey to unscrupulous government officials. “In Nairobi, it is more straightforward because once you have paid taxes nobody comes to bother you. Here the authorities take advantage of people’s ignorance. An officer from the county can just come and start harassing you so that you can give them money but in Nairobi, it appears people are enlightened so nobody can come and threaten you.” Uncle Passy hopes people will eventually change their perspective on busaa: “People think that busaa is made for poor people but its made just to entertain people like the other kinds of drinks.” Would he like for his children to take over the business from him? Uncle Passy laughs the way my grandmother does and says, “It depends on interest. My children can take over. Nobody has been forced to take over. Even us, we just found ourselves doing it.”
1URBAN +1 DRAUGHT
BEER HAPPY HOUR
EXCESSIVE CONSUMPTION OF ALCOHOL IS HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH. STRICTLY NOT TO BE SOLD TO PERSONS UNDER 18 YEARS
MWANAUME NI EFFORT PRESENTS
NOISE ON DEMAND KEVIN 'K1' MAINA DJ BURN (HOMEBOYZ RADIO).
Dresscode All black 5pm till late. Spare Ribs / Wings Platter Ksh 1,500
The Hub Karen
Jack Daniel's Old No. 7 and a platter of ribs/wings Ksh 7,500.
Jack Daniel's Old No. 7 Ksh 6000.
Cocktail Happy Hour (All Night) - Ksh 400
IN AYUMMY PICKLE
TEXT MARAH KÖBERLE
SOUR GRAINS Move over yoghurt, homemade kefir is now the fermenting trend all the do-it-yourself homemakers and food experimenters are going mad for. If you are a food lover, you might be a member of some of Kenya’s many popular foodie social media groups that have mushroomed into existence in recent years. If this is the case, you may have noticed that recently, people have been mentioning something called Kefir. Kefir is a fermented milk drink. It looks like a thin yoghurt but has a sour flavour similar to that of maziwa lala and contains health-giving probiotic microorganisms. Kefir is high in vitamins, such as B-vitamins, which are known to provide support to our immune systems. The first record of Kefir grains is from the Caucasus mountains in Eastern Europe where they were passed down through the generations. It is said that originally people put the milk and kefir grains into a goatskin bag and hung it by the entrance to their home. Every time someone entered the house, they shook the bag lightly, ensuring that the grains and the milk were properly mixed.
To make kefir, add kefir ‘grains’ to a jar or clay container of milk and then leave covered with a napkin or cheese-cloth for about 24 hours at room temperature to allow for fermentation. Kefir milk grains look a bit like cottage cheese and are a special ‘grain’, as they are composed by a culture of lactic acid bacteria, acetic acid bacteria and yeast. During fermentation, these microorganisms consume the lactose enzyme and lower the fat content, while at the same time preserving the milk by neutralising the PH. To consume the kefir, pour the fermented milk through a fine strainer into a jar. As you push the thick liquid through the strainer you will notice some white gelatinous globules, these are your grains. Put the grains back into the container, add a fresh batch of milk and restart the process. After 24 hours, the cycle should be complete, much longer and the grains will begin to starve and the kefir turn extra sour.
Over time, you will notice your Kefir grains will begin to grow and multiply. This is fine, it just means you can expand your production. However you may find it difficult to keep abreast of all the growth or might just not be at hand to keep up the cycle. In this case, your best bet is to either slow it down it in the fridge, pause it indefinitely in the freezer, or give some to a friend. If you want to taste some Kefir, it can be found in the refrigeration section of leading supermarkets in Kenya. However, if you do want to find grains to start your own Kefir production, you need to find a friendly Kenyan internet source willing to share or sell it to you.
Marah Köberle acquired her own Kefir grains after attending a fermentation course that was held by the Permaculture Research Institute - facebook.com/PRIKenya
OVERNIGHT KEFIR OATS ⅔ Cup Kefir milk ½ Cup oats 1 Tsp cinnamon ¼ Cup soaked raisins 2 Tbsp chia seeds Honey, Agave syrup, Coconut Syrup or a sweetener of your choice 1 Tbsp shredded Coconut 1 banana Rasperries Chopped cashew nuts Combine the kefir, oats, cinnamon, raisins and chia seed in a bowl, cover and leave to soak overnight. In the morning check for consistency, if it’s too thick add some extra Kefir and mix well. Sprinkle the remaining ingredients on top. Eat, go forth and conquer the day.
EASTER PLEASER It isnâ€™t always necessary to choma a whole goat for Easter, sometimes itâ€™s just as satisfying to keep things simple and whip up a succulent lamb steak, while focussing your energy on making some delightfully pretty Devilish Chicks. Chef Maureen Obolla, who has been running the kitchen at The Steak Out restaurant since 2016, goes for a less is more approach to her simple yet delicious take on an Easter Sunday lunch.
DEVILISH CHICKS You Will Need: • 3 large eggs • 2 tbsp. mayonnaise • 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice • Salt • Pepper • 1 large carrot, for decorating • Very small black olives, for decorating • Fresh dill, for decorating PROCEDURE: 1. Place the eggs in a large saucepan, add enough cold water to just cover and bring to a boil. Remove from heat, cover the pan and let stand for 11 minutes. 2. Drain the eggs and return them to the saucepan. Gently shake the pan to crack the eggs all over. Run under cold water to cool, then peel the eggs, discarding the shells. 3. Cut the top third off each egg and reserve. Carefully remove the yolks from the bottom, transfer to a small bowl and mash with the mayonnaise, lemon juice, mustard, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. If necessary, slice a thin piece off the bottom of each egg white so they stand upright. 4. Using a 1-inch cookie scoop, scoop the yolk mixture onto the top of each egg white. Very thinly slice the carrot into strips, then cut into feet, wings, and beak shapes. Use the olives for eyes and the herbs for beards, hair and eyebrows, gently placing each in the yolk mixture to make a face. Use the reserved top third of the egg for a hat.
LAMB STEAKS WITH CHEVRE CRUST
CARROT AND CREAM CHEESE CAKE
You Will Need: • 2 lamb steaks • Pinch of Salt • Pinch of Pepper • 100g Chevre • 100g Bread crumbs • 2 Garlic Cloves, chopped • 100ml Beef stock • Thyme • Tomato concentrate PROCEDURE: 1. Get Lamb leg steak from your butcher sliced at your desired thickness. Take chevre or any goat cheese and place in a bowl mixing it with bread crumbs, parsley and some butter. Set aside. 2. Season lamb with salt and pepper. Grill the steaks on a hot pan remove from the grill put on a baking tray. Put garlic in the same pan and saute’ for a minute, add some thyme and tomato concentrate, let the tomato paste brown to a darker red and deglaze the pan with some ready-made beef stock. Leave it to reduce to get a syrupy consistency. 3. Place the chevre mixture on the grilled lamb and place in the oven for a minute. Serve with steamed vegetables tossed in olive oil.
You Will Need: • Cheesecake Mixture • 240g cream cheese, softened • 140g sugar • 1 ½ tsp all-purpose flour • 2 large eggs • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 1/2 cup sour cream/natural yoghurt
SPICY BUTTERNUT SOUP YOU WILL NEED: • 1 butternut (small) • 250ml vegetable stock • 1 tbsp corn oil • 1 tsp cinnamon • 1 tsp nutmeg • 1 root ginger (small) • 1 small onion chopped • 1 clove garlic • 2 tbsp cream PROCEDURE: 1. Take a whole butternut and split into half. Season with salt, pepper and the spices. Drizzle a bit of oil and place in the oven at 200 degrees Celsius. Roast for 30-40 minutes. 2. Remove from the oven and let it cool by covering with foil. In a pot, saute’ some onion, garlic, ginger and carrots. Add in vegetable stock and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, remove the butternut from the oven, take a fork and scrape out the flesh. Add the butternut into the pot with rest of the vegetables and let the spice and veg infuse at a low heat. 3. Let it simmer for 20 mins then remove from heat. Leave it to rest for 15 minutes then blend. Put it back on fire and season with salt and pepper. Add some cream and serve with bread twists or a bun.
CARROT CAKE • 90g flour • ½ tsp baking soda • ½ tsp baking powder • ¼ tsp salt • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • ½ tsp ground nutmeg • ½ cup oil • ⅔ cup sugar • 2 large eggs • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 1 ⅓ cups finely grated carrots PROCEDURE: 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. For the cheesecake mixture: 3. In a mixing bowl, whisk together sugar and 1 1/2 tsp flour until well combined. Add cream cheese, blend together cream cheese and granulated sugar mixture until smooth. 4. Mix in eggs one at a time, mixing just until combined after each addition and adding in vanilla with second egg. 5. Blend in sour cream and set mixture aside. 6. For the cheesecake mixture: 7. In a separate mixing bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg. In a separate large mixing bowl, add oil, sugar, eggs and vanilla extract and blend mixture using electric hand mixer set on low speed for 1 minute. 8. Fold in the flour and then add carrots and mix well. 9. In a ready oiled tin pour in the cake mixture and tap the baking on the surface to remove air pockets. Then pour the cream cheese mix on top and place in a pre-heated oven. 10. Use cream to make decoration on top and garnish with mint.
All photos were shot on location at The Steak Out - eatout.co.ke/thesteak-out
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TEXT JOSIAH KAHIU
Why we age wines in barrels and the effect it has on the drink is something very important to know when understanding why wine tastes the way it does. With few exceptions such as Chardonnay, it is really only red wines that are aged this way. During the Roman empire, vast amounts of people, weapons and wine were moved across the globe. Wine was important for many reasons, one of which being that it was safer to drink than water The Romans originally used clay amphoras to transport their wine, primarily because they were easy to produce and offered an airtight seal. As the Romans moved further north into Europe, they found that the weight of the amphoras made them challenging to transport by land. Eventually they discovered that the Gauls, the inhabitants of modern day France, were experts in bending oak to produce wooden barrels. Oak forests grew thick and plenty throughout Europe and this, combined with its waterproof properties, made it an ideal material for transporting liquids. It wasnâ€™t long before the Romans realised it had another benefit: it imparted a special taste to the wine that before then had not existed. To understand what effect barrel ageing has on wine, one must first familiarise oneself with its three main sets of aromas: primary, secondary and tertiary. Primary aromas are those associated with the grape
varietal, think the strong perfumes of fruits and herbs. Secondary aromas are those that are produced as a byproduct of fermentation, yeast and butter are often easy to identify. Tertiary aromas are those that come from the ageing process. These include the more sweet and toasted aromas such as chocolate and caramel that are imparted by using wood barrels. When it comes to ageing, there are different types of wood used. Acacia and Chestnut are both fairly common but Oak is the main type used for wine barrels. Wine is aged in wood to add different aromas and flavours, because unlike other fermented products such as beer, no flavour additives are allowed in wine production. The reason that oak imparts aromas to wine, is due to an agent called lactones which is present in all oak and is released when the wood for the barrel is toasted. The amount of toasting will vary with more toasted barrels imparting more aromas to the wine. Barrel ageing helps the wine mature before it is bottled. This is because it allows microoxygenationâ€”when wine is stored in a barrel, it is not in a completely
airtight environment. Oak has tiny pores which allow oxygen into the wine which results in a reduced astringency in wine. Wines that are not aged in barrels are more astringent, meaning they have a sharper taste on the tongue. Microoxygenation allows the wine to become more smooth and pleasant to drink. The other reaction that occurs in barrel ageing is a process called malolactic fermentation. This is a chemical process that changes malic acid - think tart unripe apple taste to lactic acid - the creamier, softer flavour profile. Ageing adds layers of aromas to wine. When people say they can smell vanilla, caramel, cloves, cinnamon, dried fruit or leather - these are all due to the ageing process. There is also a difference in the type of oak that is used. New oak barrels impart more flavours than old oak barrels. It is also interesting to know that oak barrels can be used for up to 100 years although this is not often the case in wine making. Typically when winemakers are done with their barrels, they sell them for use in the making of another beloved drink: whisky.
ASK A WINO Is it true that it takes nine years to make a cork for wine? John Njoroge, 26 Yes this is absolutely true. The Quercus Suber tree takes at least 25 years to mature enough to produce suitable corks. One of the main producers of cork is Portugal but it also grows in places such as Spain and Morocco. Cork trees are able to produce cork for at least 150 years and are considered an extremely protective material. Cork bark evolved over the years to protect itself from its surrounding environment. The trees are made to endure drought, cold and bush fires. All these adversities produced one of the most unique naturally occuring materials in the world. It is water resistant, lightweight, fire resistant and impenetrable to gas, making it the perfect sealing method for products that should last years. Or, as the case may be, for wine. Once they reach maturity, cork oaks are harvested every nine years. When a tree is stripped of its bark, the farmer will tag it with white paint indicating the next time it is due for harvesting. This method of production is renewable and sustainable as it does not harm the tree. Cork has many other uses too: from comfortable, sound absorbing flooring, trendy wallets, stylish furniture designs, spacecraft heat shields there is no limit to the uses it can be put to. So the next time you open a bottle of wine, consider all the work that has gone into making what keeps the wine drinkable and recycle it to make something unique. The world of wine corks is entirely up to your creative and imaginative spirit. Have a question about wine? DM Josiah on IG @knife_and_wine
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AnnaMaya’s barley risotto is definitely fit for gods, for wandering tourists and all in between!
GRAINS FOR GODS During a recent trip to India’s capital Delhi, Amal Mohamed discovers there is more to food in this vibrant city than tikkas and curries. There’s nothing worse than losing memories - or what we in the digital age fall back on when remembering past events - our photos. This was my predicament a few days ago, having lost my hard drive before backing up photos of a recent trip to India. It was as though I had misplaced a piece of my past. The anguish is like losing a limb. So in a rush to document, solidify the smells, sounds and tastes of India that are slowly tucking themselves in the dusty attic that is the memory of a self prescribed cyberphile, I started to piece together an afternoon at the plush Andaz Delhi by Hyatt, a luxury hotel in Aerocity, New Delhi. Even amidst the rolling heavy grey fog that engulfs Delhi at the start of its winter season, there is a buzz about. The cacophony of whizzing tuk tuks and hooting trucks weaving through seven lane highways is a reminder to anyone that is tempted to forget, of the pulsing life of this city. My companion and I wearily slink into the comparably serene AnnaMaya, a warm enclave decked with coloured glass details on walls that reminded me of Kitengela glass back home. The orange and yellow hues softened the contemporary shapes that made art installations of its sharp furniture.
“Welcome to our food hall,” says the smiling maître d’hôtel guiding us to our table. As we sit, the hunger that comes with getting lost many times in a new city that morning catches up with us. We pore over the colourful menu with yearning and then surprise, as the expected tikkas and curries give way to unexpected combinations and curious molecular gastronomic dishes. Named after the Goddess of Food and Magic, this eatery certainly has us dazzled. Chef Gupta is working his charm in the open live kitchen. We see him pick homegrown microgreens from refrigerated pots of soil as if from an enchanted garden. We give each other quizzical looks making sure we were not imagining anything. One thing AnnaMaya has bragging rights to is creating dishes with locally sourced artisanal ingredients such as Ranikhet rock salt, honey pulses, dry fruits and pickles. As our orders of the promisingly healthy Matcha lassis and barley risotto arrive, we are told of the sacred importance of barley, or jau - the everyday grain of the people of the Indus Valley. In the Rig Veda, which is probably one of the world’s oldest religious text still in continued use dating back to 1500 BC, barley is the main grain that is mentioned and so revered that it was offered
to the gods. And it turns out that AnnaMaya’s barley risotto is definitely fit for gods, for wandering tourists and all in between! The substitution of the usual rice with pearl barley infuses a nutty flavour and wholesome, chewy texture. The barley also provides the perfect backdrop for lemon and parsley flavours to flourish. To top the satisfactory filling meal, is the knowledge that it is the healthy alternative to rice risotto, being a better source of dietary fiber and higher nutritional value. AnnaMaya’s homage to the Indus valley’s ancient use of grains can
also be seen in their menu that offers millet biryani, stewed barley, barnyard millet khichdi and lemony finger millet. This is one unexpected Indian food experience that I feel has taken us on a journey into the country’s lesser known past and made me realise that maybe it is food and not photos that should be our markers of moments! If you’re ever in Delhi, stop at Annamaya. It will be an unforgettable experience www. annamayadelhi.com