S/Sâ€™14 a fairtrade foundation the single girl budding talent thrills and frills & the rose garden UK ÂŁ5
On the cover: Sophie James Dress: New Look
Blog: www.dollybirdmag.blogspot.com Facebook:www.facebook.com/dollybirdmagazine Instagram: dollybirdmag
Contributors Editor: Georgia Corden All articles and photography © Georgia Corden 2014 ‘A Fairtrade Foundation’ Special thanks to interviewee Siobhan Wilson, Founder of FAIR Brighton ‘Rosie’s World’ Special thanks to interviewee, Rosie Stobbie, cat obsessive and carboot junkie ‘A Sixties Story’ Model: Sophie James Assistant: Rachel Brown ‘The Rose Garden’ Model: Ella Andrews Assistant: Rachel Brown ‘Thrills & Frills’ Special thanks to Elisabeth McCoubrie, the mind behind fashion blog Thrills and Frills
Photots: www.instagram.com www.pinterest.com
Welcome to Dollybird. England born and bred, Dollybird has grown up with family holidays to quaint towns all over the country, the sounds of Kate Bush and Fleetwood Mac filling her ears and spending Saturday afternoons attempting to make her own dresses, but ending up in a heap of fabric with no design ever completed. Dollybirdâ€™s ever-growing love for Twiggyâ€™s doe eyes and the 1960s means that she can have fun experimenting with her own quirky vintage style which she finds England does well, dressing to impeccable taste (the granny chic look is her favourite). She spent her teens wandering around the cobbled pavements of Camden Lock and Portobello Road, until she settled in Brighton, a city she instantly connected with. From this Dollybird thought that she could record all of her loves about this country into a magazine and give readers a taste of England, to inspire, explore and fall in love with, just as much as she had.
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‘Oh! England, my Lionheart!’ Kate Bush
Editor's Letter Dear Dollybirds, Welcome to the first edition of Dollybird magazine. We are very excited to have you! We hope that you enjoy this first edition, full to the brim with this month’s explorations around London and Brighton, including visits to David Bailey’s Stardust, Fashion & Gardens and Sarah Campbell’s ‘From start to finish’ exhibitions. Dollybird took a trip to the sunny seaside at Brighton to interview Siobhan Wilson about all things Fairtrade and went to raid Rosie Stobbie’s wardrobe, a hairdresser with an obsession for car boot sales and cats. We also took to the stunning Highdown Gardens in Worthing for our Garden inspired photoshoot which was full of lovely daffodils, blossom trees and primroses. The build up to Spring is just the prettiest! Fot some extra fashion inspiration this Spring/Summer 2014, check out the gifted Sibling trio, with their Sister by Sibling collection. The collection featured domestic goddess influences in vibrant shades of violet and blue and we would give up a kidney for the floral yellow two piece. Also make sure you read what we picked for our April wishlist, including the gorgeous Orla Kiely platform shoes we are yearning for! Much love
Georgia x Editor of Dollybird
Issue One features.. 17
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DILLY DALLY TO
A FAIRTRADE FOUNDATION
THE WORLD OF ROSIE
THE MAGIC OF STARDUST
THE SINGLE GIRL
SARAH CAMPBELL: FROM START TO FINISH
THE ROSE GARDEN
THRILLS AND FRILLS
HARRODS’ STAR OF TOMORROW
. . . s e v o l d r i b y l l o D
Sister by Sibling S/S’14
Sibling London’s ideal client is ‘A girl with a good sense of humour and a fun, happy attitude’, something Dollybird feels truly connected with. The designers Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery all come from different areas in England; Leicester, London and Yorkshire, and Sister is placed on the family tree branch, next to brother Sibling. For these designers, classic trademark pieces include knitwear design with mutated and unique twists, but this Spring/Summer, Sister by Sibling have gone the extra mile with feminine inspiration, taking influence from the post New Look women of America. The prim 1960s and domestic glamour was shown through the use of gingham twin sets and colour pops of violet, red and pink, which they stated came from the idea of Tupperware plastics. Standout knits and instructions for the models to have sassy smiles on the catwalk, definitely portrayed the happy go lucky client that the Sibling London trio want to pursue, and we want to be a part of it.
t s i l h s i 's w
d r i b y l l i l r o p A D
Everything Dollybird could want in a shoe. Platform block heel. Check. Two tone colours. Check. Ankle strap. Check. Delicate flower detailing. Check. Marianne Shoe, ÂŁ120, Orla Keily
This cute pinny dress is a must for Spring! Wear with a striped breton top and feel French. Corduroy Suzie Tunic, ÂŁ94.50, Cabbages and Roses
Answering the telephone just got exciting with this green retro beauty. 1960s Telephone, £49, Oliver Bonas
Go geometric with these perfect peepers. Penelope Sunglasses, £13, River Island
Colourblocking is our favourite and what better way to start than with these super cute stud earrings, made from hand beaten brass. Stud Earringss, £12, The Fair Shop
We know its a few months until festival season begins, but these flower crowns make us too excited. Bring on Glasto. Anemone Crown Headband, £15, Crown and Glory
There’s always time for tea...and a memo or two. Taking Tea stitched notepad, £12.50, Paperchase
Back with the most anticipated album of 2014, titled Luminous, we can’t wait to fill our ears with The Horrors. Pre-order now at www.thehorrors.co.uk
Sink your teeth into this fun shaped Sharky ring Alex Monroe £160, Libertys
We love these just as much as love hearts Love Heart Tea Lights, £6, JOY
Our Debby Harry shrine just got that little bit bigger. Warhol Debbie Harry Multicoloured Print £100, Heal’s
For your summer getaway, this vintage suitcase is perfect for your packing. Vintage Floral Daisy Suitcase, £32, Sasse and Belle
For just that. Trinket Tin, £7.50, JOY
. . . o t y l l a D y l Dil Brighton
Brighton Farm Market
Kensington Gardens Nestled in the heart of Brightonâ€™s North Laines, Kensington Gardens is perfect for hunting down vintage trinkets, dresses, records and accessories. A favourite spot is right outside Snooper Paradise where a huge spread of silver and stone rings tickles your fancy.
The foodie destination for tourists and Brighton locals with almost 30 local farmers and growers. From fresh fruit to flowers, this quaint little market is perfect for a daily shop and if your feeling hungry, you can even stop in at the local farm kitchen where they whip up a storm of mouthwatering dishes using only local ingredients and produce. Situated on 99 North Road.
Starfish Boutique One of Dollybird’s favourite boutiques in Gardner Street, selling a range of hand-picked vintage pieces from the 1940’s onwards in both mens and womenswear.
Bert’s Homeware Store
Little Bird cafe
For cute and kitsch homeware, this is the one stop wonderland for kitting out your home. Berts provides the essentials alongside the more fun products that turn your house into a home and come at very reasonable prices. Situated in Kensington Gardens.
Tucked away in the North Laines is this little wonder. Serving organic and fairtrade coffee along with tempting cakes and sandwiches, this place is nice to go to with a friend for afternoon tea and a natter.
A Fairtrade Foundation
Fairtrade and ethical fashion is slowly making its way further up the fashion ladder, in order to prove the point that this subject should be taken more seriously when it comes to protecting our planet. As a fashion student, I was taught in my first year about the effects of global warming and how ‘fast fashion’ is a significant contributor to the environment, making me seriously consider my own shopping habits. One woman, who shaved all her hair off last month to promote climate change, was none other than fashion designer and godlike genius, Dame Vivienne Westwood and in speaking out about the needs for fast fashion, she said ‘Instead of buying six things, buy one thing that you really like. Don’t keep buying just for the sake of it. I just think people should invest in the world…’
this company get better each year. Yes, I’ve seen Peopletree advertised on the ASOS website. Yes, they’re really getting across Europe as far as their sales. We also have a local brand called Shika which is actually a charity that helps fundraise for a school in Arusha Tanzinia, where they employ local women to make dresses. This helps make money for the school. Can you talk through your S/S collections…is there a key trend your noticing coming through for this season; Colours, prints or silhouettes?
Someone else who believes that ethical fashion needs more of a say (but would probably like to keep her hair) is Siobhan Wilson, one of the four founders of FAIR. FAIR is an independent boutique situated down Queens Road, Brighton selling Fairtrade friendly products from all over the world and has become one of my favourite little havens to visit. As I walk down Queens Road, I am enticed by FAIR’s sweet window displays of classic, retro inspired pieces all with a positive ethical background. I caught up with Siobhan to talk about local awards, new Spring/Summer collections and that sneaky visit from Barbara Hulanicki of Biba… When did FAIR Brighton begin and how? The shop opened back in 2008 and we were given two weeks to put together and organise the store. It was pulled together by the four Fairtrade importers and we all met when we were working locally at markets along the seafront. We all thought it would be lovely to make Fairtrade more accessible. How many Fairtrade designers/brands do you stock in your store? Overall, we have between forty to fifty brands, but some of it is in very small quantities and we only stock five of our strongest sellers, which include Peopletree as it is our most recognised brand. The smaller quantity sellers are from projects I worked with in Calcutter who are our local importers.
A customer came into our store not long ago and said we look very patriotic! That’s what stands out to me anyway. In terms of trends, we tend to stick to classic pieces as opposed to trend led garments. Our brands are the ones who do the trend following. So what are your favourite items in the store? Probably this scarf I’m wearing made from yack and silk…we have put them away now as its winter but it’s so warm and soft! It’s made by a beautiful French brand that also sells ethical fashion. Back in 2012, you were shortlisted for the Best Independent Boutique in the Ethical Fashion Forums Source Awards. How did this happen and how did it make you feel? It made us feel great but it was very hard work. We went up to a London Fashion event where we had our own stall. We had always known about the Ethical Fashion Forum as we were members, but we were then invited to become their pioneering fellowship five hundred as we wanted to see more independent retailers focusing on ethical fashion. At the end of the year, we actually ended up being shortlisted from a global list which was amazing. Wow! I also read you are located at the home of Brighton Biba from the 1960s. I never knew that! Yes, Barbara Hulanicki even turned up to our store which was really exciting.
How often do you visit Calcutter? Usually it would be once or twice a year but there is a struggle with the recession sadly. I was meant to go in March but it will now be a two year gap. We might have to rethink our brand and try going through wholesale as opposed to retail. Which Fairtrade brand/designer is the most popular? At FAIR Brighton, it’s Peopletree, as it’s our most well-known brand. They are really strong in their designs and I believe that
Did you know she was going to turn up? With everything that happens in the store, I get about two hours’ notice! Luckily with this I had two days’ notice, but there was still a lot of rushing around to do! The Biba exhibition which was running at the same time made a film of her reminiscing about Brighton, so she came to the shop to talk and tell stories about Biba. I got to meet her and I spent ages asking her questions!
Did she buy anything?
environment and human rights. I do enjoy the fact that we are working alongside people that are really pioneering change and I guess we just have to keep creating more awareness, but it seems very difficult to change consumer behaviour at present.
No I think she probably has everything! Fair point. But she is so beautiful and so elegant.
Have there been any close relationships with Fairtrade groups in particular?
Can you also talk through any of the projects you have worked on that support the local efforts of Fairtrade?
Yes I work with about ten organisations in Calcutter and we have also just got some great leather bags in from Amsterdam.
We work a lot with Fairtrade campaigners and a big question we have is whether we really should be campaigning about Fairtrade rather than just focusing on selling it. I guess the decision around that is its creating awareness, but there are still huge problems on the high street. There is a big issue for the
Oh I saw them theyâ€™re amazing! We get such good quality products coming out of communities that are still very much making traditional wear as well as these amazing Westernised products and we need this because itâ€™s important for ourselves in the UK.
Visit FAIR on 21 Queens Road, a short walk down the hill from Brighton Station.
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‘I was born, lucky me, in a land, that I love’ The Kinks
The World of
Hove habitant Rosie Stobbie works as a trainee hairdresser by day, but come weekend car boot sales and flea markets, Rosie is a secret assassin. Her love for bargains is proven when I am scouring her wardrobe; she loves to mix classic pieces with quirky vintage prints and retro styles and by the time I had left her house, I wanted to go and make some of my own discoveries. Colour co-ordinated and organised, Rosie loves a sale but makes sure she clears room for her new clothes by getting rid of the old. I met up with the vintage vixen to shoot some of her favourite pieces currently in her wardrobe and the purchases made that she cannot wait to wear this Summer (the hot pink skirt is to die for, fact.)
Headscarf - Vintage Necklace - River Island Cardigan - Vintage Bag - Vintage
Dress - Topshop Necklace - Vintage Leggings - American Apparel Shoes - Dr Martens
All outfit - Vintage
What’s your favourite item in your wardrobe? Where are your favourite places to shop? I love car boot markets, charity and second hand shops of course! In terms of high street stores my favourtites are COS and H&M as I like to invest in more staple, good quality items mixed with fun prints and colours. What inspires you when it comes to dressing? I’m inspired by a number of different things; I can’t really pin one thing down, but I mainly dress to suit what I’m doing that day and I like to base my look on quite square shapes and block colours; colour co-ordination is a must!
My jazzy kids TV presenter inspired shirt! I found it in a charity shop and it looks a little bit like a bus seat pattern. It’s so ugly that it’s good! What item of clothing can you not live without? I have two; my black jeans because they go with everything and a nice big warm scarf for the winter! What is on your wish-list this Spring/Summer? Some nice sunnies that actually suit my face shape and a big tote bag!
Vest - H&M Skirt - Vintage Bag - H&M Jelly Shoes - Urban Outfitters
The Magic of Stardust
A photographic genius of his time, David Bailey has been celebrated for over half a century with his unusual, shocking and glamorous photography in all shapes and sizes. Models, musicians and artists are to name a few captured through Bailey’s lens from the 1960’s onwards and his compelling masterpieces are now being exhibited at the National Portrait Gallery in London, set to be one of the most popular and exciting shows of 2014. Having an unhealthy obsession with the 1960s myself, this was top on my To Do list and I certainly wasn’t disappointed with the results. As I entered the exhibition, I was graced with the iconic black and white 11x14 inch negatives, a camera that Bailey used up to the 1970s, shooting famous celebrities from the likes of Michael Cane, Johnny Depp, The Beatles, Andy Warhol and Kate Moss. I felt like these simple headshots truly told a story to the subject in focus, paying contribution to David Bailey’s work of art. Born in Leytonstone, Bailey grew up around the people and characteristics of East London in areas such as Bethnal Green, Brick Lane and Whitechapel. With his father owning a night club in the East End, Bailey met some tough crowds of people, including that of notorious gangsters, the Kray Twins. The collection ‘Hard Men’ also at the beginning of the exhibition was a clear documentation of this. ‘East End Faces’ which I came across in the Wolfson Gallery featured photos of everyday people at the Rio Club and Dragon Club in Whitechapel and was published for The Sunday Times in June, 1968. Bailey’s discoveries, however, went beyond the depths of England, when he took regular visits to places such as Delhi, Naga Hills, Sudan and Papa New Guinea. Here, he photographed the environment around local natives and tribes such as the Australasian Aborigines in 1983. The graphically saddening images of famish and starvation in Sudan during the country’s 200,000 death toll in the autumn of 1984, displayed a harsh but visual reality into third world Africa. These photos displayed throughout the exhibition, revealed David Bailey’s exploration and discovery in contrast to the people that were closer to home.
Proceeding further to the back of the Wolfson Gallery, was a combination of Bailey’s previous collections, including ‘Democracy’; a naked series of unique body forms and shapes, ‘Andy and Dali’; a documentation into the lives of artists Salvador Dali and Andy Warhol whom David Bailey met separately in the 1960s and ‘Skulls’; his love for still life with skulls, flowers and fruit. He stated ‘To me, the ultimate sculpture is a skull’. Another room led to the intimate photographic insight of David Bailey’s wife, Catherine, whom he was fascinated with. When I entered the room, the walls were covered with stills of her throughout her life. He even photographed her during labour and giving birth to their child, signifying a strong essence of beauty Catherine had and which Bailey constantly captured.
‘To me, the ultimate sculpture is a skull’ The Stardust exhibition would not be the same if not for the fashion that Bailey shot in the major part of the 1960’s, during his time at British Vogue. His contributions show model Jean Shrimpton as his leading lady, who he said had ‘a magic about her’. This was shown in room ‘Fashion Icons and Beauty,’ alongside portraits from the more contemporary fashion designers of our time, such as John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Zandra Rhodes. The music icons of the Sixties were also another important subject in Bailey’s work. He first met lead singer of the Rolling Stones, Mick Jagger, when he dated Jean Shrimpton and from then on, he followed The Rolling Stones on tour, photographing the band backstage and for a number of single and album covers.
‘She had a magic about her’ With over two hundred and fifty specially selected images and new silver gelatin black and white prints including a new and unseen photo of Kate Moss in 2013, David Bailey’s dynamic fifty year career is illustrated with an ever-growing success and is a show not to be missed. Stardust is now viewing until 1st of June, 2014 at the National Portrait Gallery, London
Mick Jagger 1964
The Rio Club, Whitechapel 1968
Papua New Guinea 1974
The Single Girl Taking inspiration from David Baileyâ€™s Stardust exhibition and feminine ideals, Dollybird goes back in time to the decade of checks, stripes and playful miniâ€™s, to represent the girl of the 1960s.
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Dress - New Look Socks - New Look Shoes - Marks and Spencer
Dress - ASOS Earrings - Trashy Doll Shoes - H&M
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Opposite page: Coat - Vintage Trousers - Primark Jumper - Vintage Shoes - New Look Bag - H&M
Jumper - as before Skirt - H&M Earrings - Trashy Doll
Opposite page: Top - Topshop Skirt - H&M This page: Tunic - Topshop Shoes - New Look
Sarah Campbell: From start to finish
‘Sarah Campbell: from start to finish’ explores the in-depth journey of English textile designer, Sarah Campbell on her solo career after the early death of sister, Susan Collier, whom Sarah shared a business and innovative design partnership with. From the beginning rough sketches to the final product, this exhibition shows work from Sarah’s first commission in this new phase of her life, along with her collaboration on the book The Collier Campbell Archive: 50 years of passion in pattern. Short but sweet, the room was filled with colour from every angle. Her ‘Chedworth’ Marks and Spencer bedding design for Spring 2013 was a blend of dark to light florals, inspired from a voluptuous bunch of flowers in a vase. Other bedding designed for Marks and Spencer, included rich burgundies and fuschias for her ‘Winter Trees and Autumn Flowers’ design for Winter 2012 and the sky blue and cream ‘Rye Flowers’ design for Spring 2013, inspired by a painting she saw in a café in Rye. The more experimental hand painted silks on display showed repetitive patterns being a fundamental element to Sarah Campbell’s work, which was also seen in her greeting cards collaboration with Stationery Company, Roger la Borde. The company wanted the cards to have the feel of a continuous pattern and still show her use of trademark florals and nature inspired prints. And of course, we cannot forget her first commission for West Elm, a Brooklyn based home store, where Campbell designed ceramics and a floral print worthy of Liberty London, who she sold to in 1969. The design featured ‘liberty-like flowers’ and from this, she formed a continuing relationship with the British department store, for which she designed a range of florals from the late 1960s to the 1970s. A video of Sarah Campbell in action played on a projector screen, where the designer described her work in much more detail and spoke of her inspirations which constantly allow her to go off on a sketching and painting tangent. Glass cabinets including print samples for ‘Spring’ and ‘Holiday’ told me that this woman is inspired by what surrounds her, and I can’t help but feel it’s a lot from the quaint and quintessential England. Well, we do love a good floral print. Alongside studio practise, Sarah Campbell writes a popular fortnightly blog, teaches, gives talks and runs workshops. You can view her website at: www.sarahcampbelldesigns.com
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‘English women are more concerned with looking cool than sexy’. Luella Bartley
Fashion and Gardens is the first exhibition to showcase the connection between the world of garden and fashion design. Throughout time, artists and designers have referred back to gardens in particular with patterns. Florals are always a key trend, whether it’s moody blooms in the Autumn/Winter or fresh blossoms for Spring/Summer and one fashion designer has truly made an impact for A/W’14. With their take on romantic floral prints and rich earthy colours, all hail Valentino. This exhibition created by Nicola Shulman, writer, historian and Garden Museum trustee, starts from the 16th and 17th century all the way through to modern day, defining the periods where fashion was understood through the elegance of the garden. During the 16th century, gardens and dress borrowed one’s designs and shared each others patterns from Italy to the Middle East. Knot gardens, which were clipped hedges of herbs arranged in long flat terraces, imitated the raised embroidery of clothes and were a main feature to gardens at the time. The painting of Lettice Newdigate showed knot garden detailing on the bodice and reflected the one beyond the window in the picture, to become the first real knot garden in English art. The embroidered cushion cover of the 1600’s on display also showed the English taste for botanically accurate floral decoration, which began during the reign of Elizabeth I. The next part of the exhibition showed the love affair between the English and flowers. English parterres de broderie often included flowers whilst images of individual flowers adorned both mens and womens clothing in the late 16th century. The Tudor Rose was symbolic of this period along with botanical realism; fashion became copied from illustrations in published books of herbs and plant lore. Floral decoration also derived
from the florist in the 17th century, who would cultivate some of the most popular flowers from tulips and double anemones to ranunculus and auriculas. This however, went out of style in the latter part of the 17th century, but embroidery techniques continued to improve. Gardenmania in the 18th century showed the wealth put into peoples gardens and how the gardens shaped the clothes that were worn. Gardening became a highly fashionable activity of the 18th century and plants, flower displays and weeds appeared on silk dresses, along with men’s waistcoats and coats. The dress silk industry was soon thriving and settled in Spitalfields, East London, home to one of London’s largest plant nurseries. Silk designers would seek inspiration from these nurseries and for the first time, botanical elements were incorporated onto silk patterns. This became a peculiarity from English silk designers and English design became significantly distinguished. These beautiful silk samples showed the intricate attention to detail when it came to producing the patterns. The most fashionable motifs on garments were common weeds like clematis seed heads and as court dress had kept the same shape for over 40 years, there had to be a constant variety of patterns to choose from. Women started to develop a sharp eye for design and English botanical naturalism was pronounced all the range. During this time, 18th century gardens required a more fashionable pursuit and they became leisurely places to stroll and converse in. With carriages now roaming the gardens as well, parks and clothes symbolised personal freedom and a love of nature. The painting titled ‘The Sorrows of Young Werther’ in 1774, by German painter, Goethe, epitomised the
English outdoor costume and how these garments became the badge of romantic sensibility. Titled Sartorial Heritage, this section analysed just how distinguished English fashion is against the rest of the world. The wool cloth sports jacket, brogues, yellow cashmere jumpers, frock coats and wide brimmed topper hats were all part of 19th century England, alongside the classic Tweed jacket. These elements of fashion are still interwoven into styles today to keep English style as it should remain; eccentric. Fashion and Gardens was bought to life by contemporary designers such as Christopher Bailey of Burberry, Vivienne Westwood, Phillipe Treacy, Alexander McQueen and Valentino. With Treacyâ€™s Orchid hat inspired by the fluidity and shape of his favourite orchid flower, Vivienne Westwoodâ€™s historical English referencing to her collections and petal flower dresses scaled from double anemones by Alexander McQueen, gardens have and will always remain true to fashion design. Fashion and Gardens is now exhibiting at the Garden Museum, London until the 27th April, 2014.
‘Mary, Mary quite contrary How do your gardens grow?’
The work of MA Fashion Futures Alumni, Ana de Silva Rodrigues, Stephanie Steel, Yunwei Jiang and Lei Wang from London College of Fashion is now being displayed alongside the Fashion and Gardens exhibition, to show how Horticulture has shaped fashion design for these students. Both Ana and Yunwei have worked with zero materials on their garments with graphic pattern cutting. Anaâ€™s collection is focused on sportswear silhouettes in refreshing block colours of lilac, orange and navy, whilst Yunwei, was inspired by the Bauhaus art movement and modern architecture, allowing her colour palette of primary colours contrasted with gentle greys to show the core influence of Bauhaus. Meanwhile, student Stephanieâ€™s love of native Middlesborough was her main inspiration, working with found materials, plant matter and textiles. She presented her garments containing local floral caught in layers of cling film and worked into the clothing.
The Rose Garden If you go down to the woods today, your sure of a big surprise. Fresh florals, feminine shapes, and oh so pretty blue skies.
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Skirt - H&M Top - H&M Shoes - Vintage
Kimono - H&M
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Jumpsuit - Red Herring @ Debenhams Shoes - As before Cardigan - H&M
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Shirt - Urban Outfitters Skirt - H&M
Thrills & Frills
Do you enjoy working within fashion retail? ‘I remember very clearly reading Style Bubble and deciding that a blog seemed like the perfect method of sharing my interest in fashion and photography with like-minded people’ explains Elisabeth, fashion retail manager and the mind behind fashion blog, Thrills and Frills. On top of this, Elisabeth fits in freelance visual merchandising and managing within Fashion Retail. Born in rural Germany, Elisabeth has grown up around the city landscape and unique style that Germany has to offer - lucky girl. For the past six years, she has worked solidly in the hustle and bustle of London, and today, Elisabeth’s day could range from marketing and drawing up budgets to working close with up and coming fashion brands. This does not stop Elisabeth balancing her workload with her personal hobby of blogging about her explorations, fine, vintage style and her neverending love for Margaret Howell which has allowed Thrills and Frills to feature in The Guardian and on BBC radio 1 extra, alongside being picked as one of the blogs to watch in 2012 by spreadingjam.com. We speak to her about what it takes to work in the fashion industry, favourite cities to visit and her ‘geeky side’… When did you start ‘Thrills & Frills’? I started the blog at the very end of 2007 during University - it really seems like forever ago now! What made you want to start up this blog? I remember very clearly reading Style Bubble and deciding that a blog seemed like the perfect method of sharing my interest in fashion and photography with like-minded people. It was better than me talking the ear off my boyfriend and fellow philosophy students, my poor boyfriend used to have to listen to me harp on and on about clothes or designers that I loved. You work as management in fashion retail and freelance as a visual merchandiser in between. How do you find balancing these two jobs? I’ll hold my hands up and admit it’s very hard! Anyone who works a full time job and has a hobby on the side will agree. I’m lucky that sometimes my two jobs cross over, but really I wouldn’t be able to do it if it wasn’t something I really loved. I’ve made some great contacts and friends through it, and I always reward myself after a particularly long month of working solid with a trip away somewhere to escape London and work.
Oh yes! It’s something I’ve been involved in for over six years and while I consider myself a creative mind, I am a sucker for reports and figures and really trying to understand the commercial side of retail and how it works. It’s always interesting to see brands develop and it has really taught me a lot about how much hard work goes into every part of a shop; its windows, the layout, the product and design and even customer service. Retail serves my geeky side. Describe how your day usually works… My typical day is very different at the moment. For the last two months, I have been helping with a brand starting up in the UK for the first time so it can vary, from working with the creative team, interviewing prospective staff, drawing up budgets and schedules and working with marketing. After work, I spend my evening organising any freelance work I have to do, and if I still have time after that I’ll try to catch up with emails and the blog. Did you always want to be in fashion, or do you have any other career ideas? I always wanted to work in something creative, ever since I could remember really. I think originally I wanted to be an artist or a poet, but then I discovered fashion and realised I wanted to get involved in that. As well as that I’ve always been interested in religion, philosophy and human nature, and decided to study those areas in university to understand them better. I’ve always had this idea that maybe one day when I’m bored of fashion and retail (if it ever happens) that I’ll settle down and become a religious studies and philosophy researcher on some tiny island of the coast of Scotland or Ireland, alone with my cat and dog. I noticed you were picked as ‘One of the blogs to watch in 2012’ and featured in Clash magazine. How did that make you feel? It was very flattering really! I consider myself a very lazy blogger so when someone tells me people actually read my blog it’s always surprising and really quite nice. It also gives me a good nudge to try and put more effort into the blog! You like to escape abroad and blog about your travels... Where is the best place you’ve visited and why? Currently, my favourite escape is Berlin. It’s only an hour and a half on the plane and sometimes cheaper than a train ride to
‘I remember very clearly reading Style Bubble and deciding that a blog seemed like the perfect method of sharing my interest in fashion and photography with like-minded people’
north England. No one ever seems stressed in Berlin, you learn not to hurry, and you spend your evening eating good food and drinking cheap wine with friends, right into the early hours of the morning. It’s quite wonderful. Do you have any bloggers that inspire you? If so, who? I’m always inspired by blogs like 10:17 for her amazing eye for beautiful art and photography, I’m also lucky that one of my best friends, who I met through her blog Two Breads, continues to inspire me all the time. She is also the perfect shopping partner; I couldn’t survive a good sample sale without her! I saw your David Bowie shrine on your blog, which made me want to build a similar creation! Do any other musicians or bands inspire your fashion? Growing up I was obsessed with 80s bands like The Cure and Depeche Mode which definitely influenced my style during the 90s. I really love how people like Alison Mosshart, Charlotte
Gainsbourg and Lou Doillon pull inspiration from men’s wardrobes; they’d be my girl crushes in the world of music! Do you feel that having your blog helps you alongside your personal job? I definitely think so. All the time you spend reading online blogs and magazines not only provides you with inspiration for styling and anything creative in-store, but it forces you to keep in the loop in regards to what brands and designers are up to which is always useful when working in retail. What one piece of advice would you give to somebody who wants to work within the fashion industry? If you can reach out to anyone who works in the area you’re interested in, then do it! It doesn’t hurt to send an email, ask questions and offer your time. Experience is also key in the creative industry. If you work for a brand that is passionate about fashion, you can work your way into different areas as it helps to be selective about who you work for.
Read more about Elisabeth by visiting her blog at www.thrillsandfrills.blogspot.com
Harrodsâ€™ Star of Tomorrow Dreams became reality back in January...
During my final year at University, we were required to enter two competitions as part of a project that allowed us to demonstrate our unique and creative flair. The first competition was ‘Diversity Now’, associated with i-D magazine from organisation, All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, whilst the second we chose ourselves. My course tutor emailed us back and forth with upcoming competitions but none of them really jumped out at me, until I got an email for the Harrods Star of Tomorrow. For this competition, you could submit a styled shoot or a piece of writing no longer than eight hundred words, fashion related of course. I had been really interested in how fashion bloggers have become such an important asset to the fashion industry. Through working with a huge range of these bloggers in Amsterdam during a three month internship at Fashiolista, I decided to turn my interests into a thought provoking piece. I researched further into luxury consumerism as well, because of Harrods strong connection with the luxury fashion market, alongside looking at the rise in consumerism in countries such as Japan and China. I felt from this research that I could connect how the fashion blogger would benefit a luxury fashion brand as they are constantly promoting and working alongside them, gaining the brand fashion kudos. Fashion bloggers only play a small part in the vast luxury market within Europe at present, but countries such as China and India, along with the Middle East, are slowly catching up with the craze to blog about high end fashion and designers, due to this fast approaching rise in consumerism. I entered this piece in December with no thoughts about it. I wasn’t expecting to hear anything; I was just glad I didn’t have to keep thinking about that stack of work by my bedside anymore. I then received an email at the end of January and I couldn’t believe my luck. I had been accepted for an interview at Somerset House the following week! This opportunity was made even more surreal when my tutor emailed me to say I had been shortlisted from the top five in the UK! Happiness mounted. I cried a lot that week and didn’t sleep a wink from the nerves. I was going to be interviewed by none other than the Editor-in-chief of Harrods magazine, Deborah Bee, along with industry stalwarts, Jess Cartner-Morley, Fashion Director of The Guardian and members of the British Fashion Council, Anne Tyrell and Caroline Rush. The morning of the interview dawned and I arrived at Temple Station feeling prepared and excited. Nerves didn’t seem to get the better of me as I went to one of Temple’s prestigious café’s of builder’s tea and full English breakfasts. I only went in for a simple cup of tea, yet ended up devouring two bacon rolls and two cups of tea. I would stumble to the interview
stuffed, nervous and needing a wee very quickly. However, this short café trip gave me some extra time to go over answers I had written and I began to feel confident about the process. As I arrived at Somerset House, I noticed a group of eccentric older women about to enter the Isabella Blow exhibition. I instantly became distracted by these ladies’ fashion, eyeing up their amazing clothes; one woman looked like she had stepped off the St Laurent Catwalk that I forgot where I was going. I rushed to reception and was greeted by Education Co-Ordinator of the BFC, India Usher. We nattered before the interview about where we both studied, when she told me she had done a fashion design course at Lincoln University. I had done dressing for their show two years running, so we had lots to talk about and before I knew it, I was sitting anxiously in an echoey corridor that smelt like schools, clutching at my portfolio with sweaty palms.
‘One woman looked like she had stepped off the St Laurent catwalk’ My name was called and I entered to a large board room which looked out over Somerset House courtyard. Ahead of my eyes lay an attractive arrangement of cakes and fruit; Nerves had somehow not got the better of my eating habits today. The interviewees ended up being delightful to talk to and asked me all questions I didn’t expect (obviously). It made me so happy to see them all with a copy of my written piece in front of them. I couldn’t believe that they had recognised my work and thought it was good enough that they wanted to talk to me about it. I was to find out that day whether I had won the competition; the prize was a three month paid internship with Harrods magazine, which a budding writer like me was itching to get. I was however notified later in the evening by email to say I hadn’t been chosen. Dissapointment was one emotion but it didn’t stop me from smiling inside. India said that the judges had thought my work was of a high standard and I believed that that was a compliment in itself coming from such leading members of the fashion industry. I didn’t get the internship, but to me, this is just the beginning of my future dream career. To anyone that thinks its a rare occurence to win a competition as I have always felt, you never know what is around the corner, so give yourself a gentle nudge and see where it could potentially land yourself. You could be pleasantly surprised.
Stockists Sister by Sibling www.siblinglondon.com Orla Kiely www.orlakiely.com Cabbages and Roses www.cabbagesandroses.com Oliver Bonas www.oliverbonas.com FAIR Brighton www.thefairshop.co.uk Crown and Glory www.crownandglory.co.uk River Island www.riverisland.co.uk Paperchase www.paperchase.co.uk JOY www.joythestore.com Sasse and Belle www.sasseandbelle.co.uk Liberty www.liberty.co.uk Healâ€™s www.heals.co.uk H&M www.hm.com Topshop www.topshop.co.uk Marks and Spencer www.marksandspencer.com New Look www.newlook.com Urban Outfitters www.urbanoutfitters.com American Apparel www.americanapparel.net Debenhams www.debenhams.co.uk Primark www.primark.com Trashy Doll www.trashydoll.com
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