Odd Spring / Summer 2012
Sven Hoppe LCF MA â€˜10.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF / Gemma Kirk CREATIVE DIRECTOR / Gemma Kirk ART DIRECTOR / Liam Smith CONTRIBUTING WRITER / Gemma Kirk CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS / Mark Dorrian / Scott Schuman Garance Dore / Vanessa Jackman / Tommy Ton / Todd Selby
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Wouter Baartmans LCF MA ‘10.
Genetic Changes in Human DNA A Thousand Calamities
An examination into why genetic changes in human DNA, resulting in physical deformities that necessitate radical alterations to garments have inspired designers to focus on the exaggeration or minimisation of certain elements of a garment to produce a ‘look’ which occasionally shocks but sometimes dictates a trend. “Know thyself, pathologically, what a fragile bubble you are; and exposed to a thousand calamities. If you understand these things, you are a man and a genus very distinct from all the others.” - Armand Marie (Date unkown, page unknown) Our DNA, the hereditary material of life, affects how we look, how we behave and our physiology. A code-change (or mutation) in the DNA of a single body cell or a number of body cells can cause minor, and in some cases major changes in many aspects of an organism’s life. Human genetic mutations have fascinated scientists since the mid-nineteenth century in a continued endeavour to both uncover and develop an understanding of the evolution of our species. When searching the word mutation in the dictionary, the definition “the deletion, insertion, or rearrangement of larger sections of genes or chromosomes” sums up perfectly how I have investigated my silhouette on a mannequin. I have deleted, inserted and rearranged parts of garments to ‘mutate’ them. Enjoy the magazine. - Gemma Kirk.
Rick Owens Givenchy via Dis Mag Shoulder Dysmorphia
Physical Differences ‘Freakish’
The central theme of this collection is the exploration of the more extreme human DNA mutations which often lead to physical differences that are regarded as abnormal or ‘freakish’. In such cases, radical alterations to classic garments are a necessity to disguise deformity.
Cigouave via fuckyeahgoths.tumblr.com
Johnny Eck sub
Tailored shorts from the 1930s to the modern day could be worn by Johnny Eck to hide his shortened torso and lack of legs.
Above: By Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist - thesartorialist.blogspot.com Opposite: Image taken from the Johnny Eck Museum
Shorts and cropped trousers fitting people with little or no legs.
Above: By Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist - thesartorialist.blogspot.com Opposite: Illustration by Tripleeyelidsart
The Elephant Man
Johnny Eck sub
Samantha Edwards creates a disproportionate silhouette with an exaggerated right shoulder like that of the suits worn by John Merrick.
Above: Samantha Edwards LCF MA ‘07 Opposite: John Merrick the ‘Elephant Man’
Rick Owens Rick Owens via Dis Mag Shoulder Dysmorphia
Rick Owens McQueen via Dis Mag Shoulder Dysmorphia
Exaggerated shoulders of Dis Magazine’s ‘Shoulder Dysmorphia’ (see previous page) hidden by Ruth Costello’s oversized, slouchy blazer and the padded shoulders by Raf Simons.
Ruth Costellovia F Tape Roar Talent
Raf Simons Autumn / Winter 2009
Raf Simons Spring / Summer 2010
As part of Commes des Garcons S/S ‘11 show Kawakubo seems to have emulated the positioning of Siamese twins Daisy and Violet, known as the ‘Texas Siamese Twins’.
Taken All garments from The Sartorialist by Commes - thesartorialist.blogspot.com des Garcons SS ‘11.
Tom Browne too in his A/W â€˜09 collection seems to have taken inspiration from Conjoined Twins.
Above: All garments by Thom Browne AW â€˜09 Taken from The Sartorialist thesartorialist.blogspot.com Opposite: -Illustration by Tripleeyelidsart
Kenny Easterday (above) has oversized shoulders and arms to help him move around but it can also be seen used in the opposite image for fashion purposes.
Above: Taken from M O O D - http://haw-lin.com Taken from The Sartorialist -Opposite: thesartorialist.blogspot.com Kenny Easterday
Examples in fashion
Another example of how exaggerated shoulders in particular can be used in garments. Altered proportions and exaggerated elements within garments now form part of what are often applauded as innovative, exciting and ground-breaking design classics. Some designers push the boundaries and demonstrate that whilst slightly exaggerated elements within garments may be controversial and interesting visually, wearable and current looks can be created.
Image source unknown
In the 1920s and 30â€™s when sideshow acts were at the height of popularity, fashionable colours to be seen in were beige, brown, navy blue, grey and light blue.
get rid of vent
waistcoat over blazer look
double collar placement
sew 2 shirt patterns end to end
th raw edges e way around bo th l al d an st button
shape outside to make it more interesting
add sleeves Odd
interesting shape flat too straight and long
bric too much fa
make into shirt?
and add collar make much tighter, twistier
Distortion of the human form through the introduction of greatly exaggerated or unexpected shapes into garments results in fascinating, questioning and sometimes disturbing images which often echo the real-life struggles faced by those living with some sort of genetic mutation.
shoulders too big
take up and in
Merrick Trench Coat
sleeve too bunched
cings define fa
A softly sculpted silhouette which is wearable, comfortable and visually exciting. In essence; to enable extremes to be cloaked in subtlety.
take in at hips Forty Eight
re and add pleats lower waistband mo
Pleated Berr y Trousers
lower waistband more and sho rten legs
Use of fabrics with a variety of textures and patterns support and exaggerate the important â€˜mutatedâ€™ features of each garment to create an overall look which provokes interest from the onlooker but provides confidence to the wearer.
at front d add opening leave loose an
neck through different neck line
sew up 2 of the neck lines
take in draping
llar line and co squint neck
Tocci Blazer ve ight slee and add r e v e e l s t nder lef take in u
off ed ges of front
Final Outfits Outfit 1
Final Outfits Outfit 2
Final Outfits Outfit 3
Final Outfits Outfit 4
Final Outfits Outfit 5
Final Outfits Outfit 6
6 Straight Eck Shorts
7 Merrick Shirt
8 Krivo Shirt
9 Tocci Shirt
10 Merrick Jumper
1 Pleated Berry Trouser
11 Krivo Cardigan
2 Pleated Avery Trouser
12 Tocci Jumper
3 Pleated Eck Shorts
13 Tocci Blazer
4 Straight Berry Trousers
14 Krivo Blazer
5 Straight Avery Trousers
15 Merrick Trench
Odd Spring / Summer 2012