The king who’s not feeling like a king by Sonia Ricci
16 >Wine
On a silk thread by Massimo Lanza and Divina Vitale
19. Brunello and Rosso Preview
36. Zurich at Lake Side: when Italy pours, Sarerland listens by Marzio Taccetti
38. Gambero Rosso in Nigeria: a new strategic market for Italian wine by Marco Sabellico
38. Go Kenya, go!!! by Marco Sabellico
26. Berebene 3.0 by William Pregentelli
Endless rivalry by Antonella De Santis and Valentina Marino
50. Rome. Time regained 54. Milan. Contemporary soul
58. The best penne pasta, non-ribbed
64. Recipes from up and coming chefs. Tommaso Tonioni
Antico Vinaio: the secret to
Editor Gambero Rosso S.p.A. via Ottavio Gasparri, 13/17 - 00152 Roma +3906551121 - fax 0655112260 gambero@gamberorosso.it
Director Lorenzo Ruggeri
Editor-in-chief Sonia Ricci
Editorial team Clara Barra, Mara Nocilla, Marco Sabellico (correspondent)
Editorial coordination: Antonella De Santis
Editorial consultancy: Stefano Polacchi
Translation Eleonora Baldwin
Graphic Project
Tina Berenato - TB design
Layout
Maria Victoria Santiago, Chiara Buosi
Contributors
Giuseppe Carrus, Antonella De Santis, Massimo Lanza, Eugenio Marini, Valentina Marino, William Pregentelli, Marco Sabellico, Marzio Taccatti, Divina Vitale,
Administration via Ottavio Gasparri, 13/17 - 00152 Roma
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C LASSICO D ’O LTREPO ’ P AVESE DAL 1814
Talking about our wines means talking about our land, history and family. But it also means taking you on a journey of enthusiasm and passion. It means getting you into all the choices behind the creation of a new wine or the reinvention of our classics, from the initial inspiration to the final decision. In this process we always try to reach the perfect balance between man and land, tradition and change, our present and our visions of the future. We hope to tell you all this soon, sharing a
Time in reverse
Lorenzo Ruggeri
Two hours sitting in the dark in a cinema? An eternity. Twenty pages of a novel without interruption? Utopia. A three-hour theatre show? Fear and discomfort. And even preparing a proper Sunday lunch –three, I say three, proper courses – now seems like a feat. A few weeks ago, I had dinner at a friend’s house. I opened the cupboard and found an unusual packet of spaghetti: cooking time two minutes. We have reached the point where we don’t even want to wait those ten minutes for pasta that cooks itself. Technological innovation today has a common goal: to cut down on time. Everything has to be ready to use, good in a few seconds, single-portion trays of anything and everything, a slice of watermelon like a slice of yellowtail that we find everywhere. As if the problem were no longer the quality of the raw material, but the time it takes. Instead of stimulating us, technology makes us lazier: we ask Google or ChatGPT for answers that we often already know. We say we don’t have time, but we waste hours following algorithms designed to make us believe the opposite. The result? Digital isolation with few precedents. The real enemy of wine is not tariffs or young people who are not interested in this ancient drink (false): it is a digital age that robs us of our social life. It is the mobile phone that we check every minute. The more time we spend there, the less we interact with real people, the less we create opportunities to meet. And, fortunately, when chatting on a keyboard, we certainly don’t uncork an important Tuscan red. There is no wine without real people. And if we move on to restaurants, a paradox emerges that speaks volumes: the most recent vintages, on many wine lists, cost more than the older ones. Something unthinkable ten years ago. And it is not just about financial speculation on certain cult labels: it is the definitive consecration of urgency, of the here, now and immediately. We are losing sight of one of the most beautiful and romantic aspects of wine: what it will become. Wine understood and purchased with a patient view to growth, evolution and memory. We are no longer used to waiting; we have lost our patience. Our relationship with time has changed. And wine, which thrives on time, is paying the price. But we are convinced that, after a bitter 2025, there will be many businesses capable of continuing to reap great rewards. Our wish for the new year is simple: to reclaim the value of those minutes spent cooking a normal plate of spaghetti; of a bottle opened in two without any interruptions; of a story of real life told in a simple voice. That time is our true intangible heritage, from the kitchen to the vineyard: what, amid imitations, caricatures and tributes, continues to make us recognisable and, above all, so loved around the world.
Theking , Tommaso Mazzanti, the entrepreneur who transformed a flatbread into a global phenomenon while remaining stubbornly normal texts and photos by Sonia
Ricci
who’s not feeling like a king
When they leave the Brera office, it is 12:03 p.m. on a November day in Milan, with low light, a northern feel, and a blue-grey sky that changes the colour of the glass. To the left, two blocks away, is Via Solferino: print journalism behind them, the city rushing ahead. Bars with tables outside eight months of the year, even when the dampness cuts through to the bone, ambiguous bistros that proclaim themselves “world cuisines”, people always in jackets because Milan, more than a place, is a verb: to produce.
He, on the other hand, at least in appearance, is not rushing. A cap on his head, his jacket tightly buttoned, broad shoulders, the air of a big boy from the provinces who is not yet convinced that he is “somebody”. As soon as he walks through the door of the building, the doorman greets him as one does in historic apartment buildings. Two metres further on, the first voices: “Tommaso, can we take a photo?”. He shies away, almost embarrassed. He smiles, but not too much, and stands in front of the phone like someone who knows he has to do it, not like someone who is revelling in it.
Tommaso Mazzanti is the owner of All’Antico Vinaio, the now well-known chain of stuffed Florentine schiacciate that has grown from a narrow alleyway in Via de’ Neri in Florence to around fifty locations across Italy, Europe and the United States. This year, it could reach a turnover of 100 million. He continues to describe himself as a “crybaby”, repeating that he is shy, afraid of judgement, and still
feels like the boy from the council flats in Bagno a Ripoli. The scene is Milan, the character is Florence. And the story – more of a conversation than an interview – is the story of an entrepreneur who has turned a sandwich into a global phenomenon, while remaining stubbornly, almost pathologically, normal.
From rotisserie chicken to queues
He says he spent his childhood in the shop. At sixteen, he dropped out of hotel school – «I wasn’t cut out for books or the rules of cooking» – and started working in the rotisserie that his mother opened opposite the old wine shop taken over by his father in 1991, L’Antico Vinaio. The iconic schiacciata is on the other side of the street; where he works, there are only trays of rotisserie food. «I sold chicken and potatoes,» he says. It was behind that greasy glass that the boy began to measure himself against the world: his parents in the kitchen, him at the counter, financially independent before his peers, but at the cost of burning all the light-heartedness of his eighteenth year. «I had my own money, things my peers didn’t have, but I was always working». He doesn’t really complain about it – «I’m a crybaby, I cry easily» – but when he delves into his memories, he remembers the tears more than the joys: the arguments in the kitchen, the impossibility of having that “free rein” with which a child destroys and rebuilds their parents’
work. That resistance becomes his driving force: to prove he is good without being told “well done”.
Milan, pandemic and the leap
He arrives in Milan at the worst possible moment: 2020, the year when everything came to a halt. He signs the loan, finds a flat and settles in. Then Covid arrives and that energy we have come to call “Milan” – the driving force, the continuous flow of money and people – suddenly falls silent. The city that leaves many people behind, for a moment, is itself left behind. Like the rest of Italy. On 8 May, it reopens with the famous metre distance rule, and on 15 June 2020, All’Antico Vinaio opens in Milan.
The queue in front of the shop in Via Moscova is one of the first spontaneous gatherings after lockdown: bodies crowded together for a sandwich, as if the right to shared food had to be regained bite by bite. It is there that the roast chicken boy, accustomed to the alleyways of Florence, realises that Milan has adopted him: the queue becomes news, the sandwich a kind of symbol of rediscovered
normality. «We had been through months of fear, people locked in their homes. Seeing that queue was a media kick, for us and for the city».
Inside the Milan headquarters in Moscova, between a high table and a wall of faux rustic bricks, there is a Paris Saint Germain shirt belonging to Donnarumma hanging with four nails, bare, without a display case, within reach. There is no reassuring plexiglass barrier: it is a relic but not a fetish, anyone could reach out and touch it. A kind of unprotected museum, alienating for those accustomed to football reliquaries, and at the same time consistent with the authenticity of the character.
Mazzanti points to it with a laugh: the shirt is real, the relationship too, «we are friends». His friendship with the goalkeeper is a detail, but it illustrates the paradox well: someone who still feels like he is “from the suburbs” now lives in a world where footballers are customers, their shirts decorate the walls of a global brand, and all this continues to seem, deep down, like a huge misunderstanding. «I don’t feel cool».
Tommaso Mazzanti began his success with steaming “schiaccia” filled with Tuscan cold cuts, starting from his small family shop in the heart of Florence.
The TripAdvisor kid
Before footballers, before Milan, there was a platform with green stars and provincial forum graphics: TripAdvisor. For him, it was the turning point. Incredibly, without any knowledge of the digital world, marketing or social media in general, he understood before anyone else that those anonymous lines were more powerful than any flyer. He signed up to Facebook not with his name but with that of the bar: he didn’t want to exist as an individual, he identified with the brand. The day Il Vinaio landed on TripAdvisor, he began posting screenshots of positive reviews, one after the other, like hanging his children’s drawings on the fridge.
He reads the negative ones, few at first, with almost masochistic attention. This is where the generational conflict comes in: his father, who grew up in a world where “you either work or shut up”, considers those online notes a waste of time. «I used to read the reviews to him. “Dad, look, they tell us to use gloves”. And he would say, “Forget about these things, you have to work”. He had a different mindset, he didn’t understand. I, on the other hand, went looking for the negative ones: at the time, they weren’t malicious. They would say “your gloves are dirty”, they didn’t wish you dead». In that friction between the shopkeeper who does not want to be “taught the trade” and his son who sees the web as an endless audit, we glimpse the passing of an era. In Florence, when you have twenty reviews, you are already somebody. At Antico Vinaio, within a few years, the reviews become hundreds, then thousands. The restaurant climbs the rankings: first in the city, then in Tuscany, then in Italy, then in Europe. In 2014, it receives the surreal title of “most reviewed restaurant in the world”. For a while, it seems like a fairy tale. Until the fairy tale begins to turn against the protagonist: Mazzanti becomes “the kid who works thanks to TripAdvisor”, as if the bread, the cold cuts and the hours behind the counter were mere details. «According to them, the queues were only thanks to the website, not the sandwiches. I stopped posting and removed the TripAdvisor logo everywhere». He rejects the idea of being a by-product of a platform.
The sandwich: quality that can be replicated
The stuffed Florentine schiacciata is, in theory, one of the simplest things in the world: a focaccia, a generous filling, an unwritten rule that says “go overboard”. But simplicity, here, is deceptive.
Mazzanti does not claim absolute superiority for his product; he knows full well that there are artisans who work better, more advanced ovens, rarer cured meats. ‘I never say that my schiacciata is the best; there are excellent products around the world.’
The point, in his case, is not the highest quality but repeatability: transforming a workshop gesture into a machine that works the same in Florence, Milan, Palermo, New York and London. Replicating the same bite every day in fifty different places. «If you can do that, you’ve hit the jackpot». The prices are affordable: six to twelve euros. In the Moscova
After Florence, on 15 June 2020, All’Antico Vinaio opened in Milan: the queue in Via Moscova was one of the first spontaneous gatherings after lockdown.
area, where rents reach €300,000 per year, €6 for a sandwich is already a statement. «For 6 euro, you get a meal, not a snack», he often repeats. It’s a phrase that has something union-like and something clever about it: it combines what young people like – abundance, photos, the idea of “stuffing themselves” – with the old idea of a meal that keeps you going until the evening. «It has always been our policy: to value value for money and our employees. It’s a winning combination», he says in front of the counter. Standardisation comes through suppliers, who, in Mazzanti’s narrative, take on the characteristics of a parallel family that has grown up alongside his brand. The long-standing producer of sbriciolona, for example, has invested half a million euros to keep up with him. Many others have done the same.
In the gourmet world, where every sandwich must justify its existence, All’Antico Vinaio seems almost like a foreign body. Not refined enough for those who swear by the dogma of “terroir”, too popular for the sourdough brotherhoods, impossible to pigeonhole as “artistic” street food. Mazzanti is the statistical anomaly that disturbs the world of Italian
food and wine: a schiacciata that draws crowds more than tasting menus, a replicable format that shakes the myth of unrepeatable quality. The phenomenon cannot be explained by the rhetoric of “authenticity”, nor by Tuscan nostalgia, nor by the Instagrammability of puffy schiacciate. The logic is more brutal and clearer: repeating the same product every day, in fifty different places around the world, with the same consistency, the same flavour, the same recognisable experience. It is this reproducibility – industrial in its organisation, artisanal in its impact – that breaks down the distinction between “high” and “low”.
Collaborators and welfare
There is one thing that Mazzanti is more passionate about than slam dunks: his employees. He becomes a bit of a unionist. He insists on applying national contracts, providing good company welfare, a “bonus week” of holiday after Covid, and a few free trips for employees for important occasions. Above all, he has an almost sentimental memory for names: «Claudio, Daniele known as “Zacca”, Matteo has become national director». He knows them one by one, he fought with them through the first queues, the midnight closures, the experiments that went wrong. «I care about each and every one of these families».
Pathologic shyness
There is an obvious paradox in this whole story: someone who appears in hundreds of social media videos, recognised on the street, photographed in front of his slam dunks, says he is shy. As he walks to the trattoria where he goes for his lunch break, he describes himself as polite to a fault: «Perhaps that’s my biggest problem». He is fortunate enough to know many people – footballers, television personalities, entrepreneurs – but he never asks for a favour, a contact, a boost. At dinner with “a super important person”, one of those names that would make headlines in large print, he experiences the evening as a reward in itself. No photos, no posts, nothing. The idea of disturbing them is intolerable to him. The same shyness, turned upside down, becomes hypersensitivity to judgement. «I find lack of recognition very difficult to deal with. It’s awful to say, but that’s how it is». Inside, he remains the child who waits for a “well done” from his father for having measured out the aubergine just right, but instead receives only reproaches. As an adult, this hunger for recognition drives and wears him down: if criticism comes his way, he goes to see where the problem lies; if a gratuitous insult comes his way, it gnaws at him because he knows how hard he is working. Social media is now more of a chore than fun. He
knows full well that the videos that work best are the raw, unedited ones shot by the lads in the shop, as genuine as Donnarumma’s shirt hanging on the nails. He wouldn’t post anything on his personal profile: «I don’t mind the idea that one day someone might turn it off». But the public figure cannot disappear, so he remains, halfway, in that uncomfortable balance between exposure and rejection.
The Lamborghini episode, a post in which he told the journey that led him to be able to buy that car, has stuck with him like a scratch. He was convinced it was a story of work and redemption, not very self-referential; the comments turned it into yet another trial of the “new rich”. «They slaughtered me, but I’m not what they said I was».
Family and work
Mazzanti’s real obsession is not turnover: it is his family. Three children – Tancredi, Ranieri, Celeste –and a wife, Clara, a Florentine from the “real historic centre”, who teases him because he comes from Bagno a Ripoli but claims to be Florentine for generations. They met as befits a coherent story: at the bar. He fell in love immediately, without any special
effects. He is not a man of grand gestures or romantic dramatics. However, he recounts a scene on the stairs of Clara’s sister’s old flat that betrays a deeper sentimental streak than he admits. There is a phrase written somewhere, «Solo noi» (just us). He looks at her and repeats it. She tattoos it on the back of her neck. End of the gesture, beginning of the rest. Today, his life is a triangle drawn with a ruler: home-office-school. He wakes up around five, but not to go running in technical clothing like snobbish entrepreneurs. He has two hours to himself, from five to seven, in his pyjamas, on the sofa, with a cigarette: his brain resets, he puts his accounts, problems and ideas back in order. At seven, the domestic «madness» begins: waking the children, breakfast, backpacks, odd socks. «At half past nine, I’m at the office until half past three, then I go back to them». Every single morning he takes his children to school, every afternoon – when he’s not abroad – he picks them up. It’s his private form of wealth, the only one on which he refuses to compromise. He says that the price of success has been becoming «too busy» and not having had a wild youth: no twenty years spent drinking every night, no empty nights.
The weight of the castle
When asked if he feels rich, he answers no with a naturalness that takes you aback. ‘I come from a family where my dad would scold me for spending an extra penny on aubergines,’ where money was a tangible thing, measured in small change. ‘I am aware of what I have, but I am always afraid that it will all collapse. That’s why I nag the boys: everything has to be perfect. Sometimes it doesn’t take much to bring down a castle.’ The castle, in his mind, is not made of bricks but of people: hundreds of employees and their families. If the person-brand collapses, the brand collapses and with it the salaries.
Purchase offers come in all the time. Lots of “nice” offers, a few “serious” ones, the kind that put hundreds of millions in your hands and explain how you could never work again. For now, he has turned them all down. Antico Vinaio is his child, he repeats, and children are not for sale.
London & Las Vegas
Among the flights that keep him away from his children and his sofa are London, Las Vegas, and now Paris. The products arrive from Italy by container. «Fortunately, the duties don’t kill us. If you look at the figures for cured meats and cheeses per kilo, you’re within limits. It’s complicated, but we do it». But travelling weighs on him more than he would like. «Leaving my wife with three children at home is
All’Antico Vinaio has around fifty outlets in Italy, Europe and the United States: this year it expects to reach 100 million euro in turnover
not easy. I always try to shorten my trips: last time, to get back sooner, I took a car, drove six hours alone, and left from Boston instead of New York just to be home a day earlier. Some things are priceless.»
When the lights in Brera dim once more and the cold cuts through the courtyard, he accompanies us to the door. He thanks us repeatedly, as if he had been invited rather than interviewed. He says he has had a nice day, “almost restful”, he jokes, he who usually spends all his days working. He walks away briskly, ready to slip back into his home-office-school triangle. Tomorrow, at five o’clock, his pyjamas and sofa will be waiting for him for two hours of mental reset. The haters will continue to explain to him how to make a sandwich, social media will remain “a mess”, and the queues in front of bars and restaurants around the world will grow a few metres longer. He, the “crybaby” from Bagno a Ripoli who sold roast chicken at sixteen and cried in the kitchen, will continue to wonder if someone will ever simply say to him, «Well done». In the meantime, he has lined up hundreds of people in front of a flatbread. And for someone who is afraid of judgement, that’s not a bad way to respond.
Hans Rottensteiner Estate, a territorial interpretation of Bolzano wine
In Bolzano, wine is a matter of soil. The red porphyry that surrounds the city is not only a landscape feature, but also the element that more than any other defines the style of the wines. On these hills, among steep slopes, extreme temperature variations and a surprisingly warm climate, the Rottensteiner family has been carrying on a coherent interpretation of the historical varieties of the territory for generations.
Today, the winery is run by Hannes and Judith Rottensteiner. The production philosophy is clear: low yields, attention to work in the vineyard, and a focus on the location. The approximately 20 hectares of property are supplemented by grapes from a consolidated network of historic farms, selected over time for their vocation and location, in a project that prioritises origin over winery technique.
The focus of production remains Lagrein, Bolzano’s iconic grape variety and the ideal expression of the porphyritic soils. It is in the green heart of Gries, long considered the most suitable area, that the grape variety finds structure, depth and a distinctive tannic texture, supported by a natural freshness that defines its elegance.
This is where Trigon Lagrein Gries Riserva, the winery’s flagship label, is born: limited production, carefully calibrated ageing in cement and wood, and a style that eschews power for its own sake.
The result is a dark, compact but measured Lagrein, in which the mineral component of the porphyry emerges clearly, lengthening the palate and ensuring
From the porphyry of Gries to the hills of Santa Maddalena, a coherent vision of the city’s main wine expressions.
its longevity. Alongside Lagrein, the winery continues to work with conviction on Santa Maddalena, a hillside expression of Schiava. Here, the grape variety goes beyond the clichés of immediacy to offer more complex wines, playing on finesse, drinkability and aromatic precision.
Among the historic farms that make up the Rottensteiner mosaic, the Premstallerhof plays a central role. Located in Santa Maddalena at an altitude of between 400 and 500 metres, it is one of the most suitable vineyards in the area and is cultivated according to biodynamic principles.
This farm produces two wines that have also received recognition from Gambero Rosso, confirming their quality and stylistic consistency. Here, Schiava acquires tension and depth, maintaining a clear territorial profile, far from caricatural interpretations.
The work of the winery develops like a precise map of the vocations around Bolzano: Gries for Lagrein, Santa Maddalena for historical varieties, Appiano and Missiano for some targeted selections. Each wine is born from a choice of site, not from a standardised approach.
The result is a predominantly single-varietal range, characterised by drinkability but never banality, in which porphyry remains the sensory thread. In an increasingly complex South Tyrol, Rottensteiner continues to stand out for its loyalty to the territory, expressive measure and stylistic continuity, offering an authentic interpretation of Bolzano wine.
A. Lagrein
Gries Trigon Ris. '22
wine
On a silk thread
Brunello 2021 is proving to be one of the best in recent years: well-balanced and with well-extracted tannins
by Massimo Lanza and Divina Vitale
Despite one of the driest years in the last thirty years, second only to 2003, our notes on the 2021 Brunellos describe wines that are quite balanced in the glass, without excessive over-ripeness, either on the nose or, above all, on the palate, and with well-extracted tannins. It was a vintage characterised by well below average rainfall, but compensated for by a summer that was not excessively hot, with few heat peaks concentrated in just four days around the middle of August. Summer rainfall, on the contrary, was just above average, with the exception of September, which was completely dry.
The April frost did not cause excessive damage, except for slight, patchy drops in production. In summary, there was little rain, but it was not very hot, and the little rain that did fall came at the right time.
Rosso sul filo
The situation is more varied when it comes to red wines, partly because there were three vintages available for tasting: 2022, 2023 and 2024, including delayed releases and the current one. Paradoxically, the wines from the latter vintage, albeit few in number, are numerically inferior to the others. It is certainly too early to draw conclusions, but at the moment – despite the great attention and efforts to promote this appellation – we do not yet see uniformity of views among producers. Of course, interest in Rosso di Montalcino and the consequent increase in its vineyard area is too recent for there to be unity of purpose, but if we limit ourselves to tasting the latest vintage, the stylistic choice of many seems clear: to make pleasant Rosso di Montalcino wines that have complexity and authority without betraying the varietal characteristics of Ilcinese Sangiovese. But they also want a wine
>The
Rosso di Montalcino
There is a great deal of interest in Rosso di Montalcino, both from producers and consumers. There are two key points: to make a wine that is different from Brunello, but without betraying the terroir and with an eye on the market and young consumers
that can appeal to a different audience than Brunello, perhaps young people or those who do not want to spend (especially in restaurants) large sums of money on a good bottle, so as to offer this large market segment wines that are less austere and more immediate, but also affordable.
Controversy & territories
Accustomed as we are to evaluating wines by taking into account their adherence to the territory and typology, we find the controversy over some Brunellos from the southern slopes, which
some have defined as anachronistic, rather tiresome, especially when they seem to us to be clearly consistent with the vintage and territory, and therefore full-bodied, energetic and well-structured, perhaps with half a point more alcohol than other areas, but well integrated. Nor do we believe that Montalcino is undergoing an epoch-making change in style aimed at lightening and simplifying Brunello, as happened in Langa in the last century with the introduction of barriques. Firstly, because the change in Montalcino began some time ago, precisely after the annus horribilis of 2008, and continued with the revision of the regulations, which gave producers the option of halving the time spent in wood if they wished. It is therefore normal that, compared to 15 years ago, many
Brunellos have become more austere and elegant and seem fresher – just look at their colour – but certainly not lighter. In any case, after investing so much in promoting Rosso di Montalcino, including with a specific event such as Red Montalcino, bringing the two appellations closer stylistically would be commercial suicide.
More comprehensible wines
If anything, for years now we have noticed greater clarity in the wines we have tasted compared to a certain standardisation that we encountered in the 1990s and for most of the following decade. Now we find both the area of origin and the producer’s style much more identifiable, factors linked both to a different and more careful approach in the vineyard and
to a more focused use of wood: small pieces of wood with very strong toasting are used less and less, while the time spent in wood is calibrated according to the vintage. Fortunately, the season of woody Brunellos with unnaturally intense colours is now a distant memory. With regard to areas of origin, the new President of the Consortium, Giacomo Bartolommei, reiterated: ‘In Montalcino, there is no need to give names to territories. We do not consider it necessary to follow the zoning model: it is not the right way forward.” Of course, we believe that if zoning, as with other appellations, is reduced to using Additional Geographical Mentions on the label without classifying individual vineyards as in France – Bartolommei rightly says – it is not needed in Montalcino, as it has already been in place for some time, given that producers in Ilcinese have the option of mentioning the name of the vineyard on the label, which may coincide with the place of production: Podernovi, Montosoli and Casaccia, to name just a couple of the best known.
Growing quality
Apart from well-established names that consistently live up to expectations, such as Fuligni, Ciacci Piccolomini, Col d’Orcia, Fanti, Fattoria dei Barbi, Mastrojanni, Poggio di Sotto, or younger (but already established) wineries such as Giodo or Ridolfi, our tasting notes for this 2025 edition of Benvenuto Brunello are truly full of wines that have achieved remarkable scores: as we said, the average quality continues to grow, either because younger wineries are gaining confidence with experience in the field, or because, in our opinion, there is generally more awareness of the merits of the territory and its chosen grape variety, and now much more work is done in the vineyard than looking for shortcuts in the cellar. The wines of the 2021 vintage have given us many surprises, which we have tried to summarise in the tasting notes below with the aim of giving space to young and perhaps lesser-known wineries.
Brunello Preview 2021
96
>Brunello Filo di Seta 2021
Castello Romitorio
An extremely modern and refined Brunello produced by Filippo Chia on the north-western slope. Complex, with deep balsamic notes dominated by fresh aromatic herbs, accompanied by crisp and tasty black fruits. On the palate, it is a wine of great elegance in every facet, with splendid tannins, excellent progression, integrity and infinite persistence.
95
>Brunello Vigna Montosoli 2021
Canalicchio di Sopra
Ripaccioli continues to produce a highly expressive Brunello. Tense and crisp both in aroma and on the palate. A wine of great tension and excellent rhythm that wins you over sip after sip because it does not neglect the pleasantness and taste that reveal themselves with plump, well-defined and ripe red fruit. It is long and enveloping with graceful tannins and a refined texture. Juicy and persistent.
95
>Brunello di Montalcino 2021
Le Chiuse
Lorenzo Magnelli and his wife – in the northeast – offer us a smooth and delicate Brunello, characterised by supreme elegance and wonderful tannic texture. Luminous, consistent, territorial, a beautiful wine. Sangiovese played down while still delineating a lively and full-bodied substance at the centre of the palate, it is endowed with exhilarating harmony and balance.
96
>Brunello Gianni Brunelli 2021
Le Chiuse di Sotto
This is a wine that is all about taste, from vineyards in the Sant’Antimo area. It is more austere on the nose, reminiscent of the stylistic temperament that has made Brunello famous throughout the world, and then confuses with its bright, bold colour. It is flavourful, agile, has a nice smoothness and adherence to the palate, with juicy tannins. It becomes deep with a savoury aftertaste of great appeal.
95
>Brunello di Montalcino
Fior di Meliloto 2021
Corte Pavone
Haio Loacker has identified seven “dynamic” crus where, based on constant monitoring, only the perfectly ripe part of the vineyard is harvested. The Fior di Meliloto ‘21 impressed us with its clear bouquet of dark flowers, red fruit, undergrowth and rhubarb, and its fresh, full flavour, with a good balance between fruit and tannins and a long, balsamic finish.
>Brunello di Montalcino
La Mannella 2021 95
Cortonesi
For years, La Mannella has been synonymous with Tommaso Cortonesi. Now, however, it gives its name to “one” of its Brunellos produced on the northern slope. Very elegant, the 2021 vintage is broad and multifaceted, with notes of violet, black mulberry, cherry and wet undergrowth; the palate is frank, savoury, well endowed with dense, lively tannins and lingers nicely on a background of liquorice that accompanies it through to the finish.
95
>Brunello di Montalcino Vigna il Ciliegio 2021
La Magia
Fabian Schwarz has 15 hectares in Sant’Antimo. From the oldest vineyard, Vigna Ciliegio ‘21 has an elegant and multifaceted bouquet, black fruits, peony and liquorice that find freshness in lavender and other herbs, on a background of sweet spices. Grit and tension on the palate are well balanced by the fruit for a very long finish where a hint of citrus peeps through.
>Brunello di Montalcino Rosildo 2021 95
Franco Pacenti
The company founded by grandfather Rosildo in Casalicchio is now run by his grandchildren Lisa, Serena and Lorenzo Pacenti. Their Rosildo ‘21 won us over with its elegant bouquet, opening with notes of wild berries and undergrowth, complemented by hints of cinchona, spices and iron. The palate is airy, rich and balsamic, with beautifully integrated tannins and a very pleasant, slightly savoury finish.
>Brunello La Casa 2021 94
Caparzo
A full-bodied, fleshy wine from the northern slopes, produced by the Gnudi Angelini women who also run the Altesino winery. A wine with body and warmth, with a highly appealing smoky aftertaste. It then returns with conviction to ripe fruit, which blends into a smooth, long finish on the palate. Smooth, with fine tannins and a long aromatic persistence.
>Brunello di Montalcino 2021 94
San Guglielmo
A fine showing across the board, from Brunello to Rosso, for this small winery based on the western slopes. The bouquet offers subtle, fresh aromas with floral notes of violet, rose and iris, creating a gentle, whispering profile. It is on the palate that we find grit and determination, flavour and roundness. The taste becomes more complex while maintaining elegance and refinement.
>Brunello di Montalcino 2021 93
>Brunello AD/1441 2021 94
Castello Tricerchi
Every year, the production of the young but increasingly knowledgeable Tommaso Squarcia becomes more convincing. The nose is noble with a floral aroma of great intensity and purity. In the mouth, it is vibrant, with lots of energy and tension, and a vigour that makes it very dynamic on the palate. It is highly enjoyable, easy to drink and has a lovely character.
>Brunello di Montalcino 2021 94
Fattoi
Lamberto and Leonardo Fattoi produce wine in the area around the parish church of Santa Restituta. The Brunello ‘21 has an intense fruity aroma, a blend of blueberries, cherries and blackberries, followed by Mediterranean scrub, wilted roses, spices and crumbled rock. The palate is full, rich in well-defined tannins and with a great balance between acidity and fruit, with a long finish refreshed by a balsamic return.
>Brunello di Montalcino 2021 94
San Polino
Katia Nussbaum and Gigi Fabbro’s winery was the first here to obtain organic certification in 1994. The Brunello ‘21 has a broad and complex nose with refined floral aromas, more pronounced hints of ripe red fruit, Mediterranean scrub, cocoa and rust. On the palate, it is dynamic, slightly savoury and well balanced between tannins and fruit, with a long and persistent tapered finish.
>Brunello di Montalcino Capriolo 2021 94
Terre Nere
Francesca and Federico Vallone’s vineyards and winery are located in the Castello della Velona area, where they have 15 hectares at their disposal. Their Brunello ‘21 is sunny and Mediterranean, with aromas of blackberries, plums and blueberries, balsamic herbs, wilted flowers and sweet spices. The palate is well supported by acidity and dense, ripe tannins, and is full-bodied, juicy and long-lasting.
Paradiso di Cacuci
Great charm on the nose, revealing ripe, fresh red and black berries, followed by notes of balsamic caramel and a floral undertone of violets, wildflowers and Mediterranean herbs. This version is delicate and elegant, with the power of the raw material clearly evident but well tamed, resulting in a smooth mouthfeel that is easy and very pleasant to drink.
>Brunello di Montalcino Ofelio 2021 93
Patrizia Cencioni
A passionate winemaker, Patrizia Cencioni founded her winery at a very young age in 1989. Brunello Ofelio ‘21 ages for over three years in 15-hectolitre oak barrels. Dense on the nose with clear hints of dark flowers, red fruit, juniper, but also spices and balsamic herbs, it is broad and complex on the palate with crisp tannins and a beautiful underlying savouriness, fruity and long on the finish.
>Brunello Ugolforte 2021 93
Tenuta San Giorgio
The second winery in Montalcino (after Poggio di Sotto) belonging to the Collemassari group, it has shifted into high gear in recent years with excellent results. The result is a wine with character, beautiful texture and good depth. It is very flavourful on the palate, where it displays generous and complex matter rendered in a harmonious and convincing manner. The finish is very persistent.
93
>Rosso di Montalcino 2023
Rosso
The 7 best
San Polo Marilisa Allegrini
Marilisa Allegrini’s beautiful Montalcino estate is not far from San’Antimo and boasts 16 hectares of organic land. The Rosso ‘23 stands out for its modern and decisive character, starting with its clear bouquet of red fruits, cherry, pomegranate and potpourri of wild flowers, liquorice and spices. On the palate, the fullness of the sip is complemented by a touch of savouriness and dense, gentle tannins.
92
>Rosso di Montalcino 2023
Sanlorenzo
Lorenzo Ciolfi grew up with his sister on the family estate, purchased in the second half of the 19th century and located on the south-western side of the village. They present us with a Rosso with more sanguine, mature and ferrous characteristics, endowed with a beautiful fleshiness and a distinct character. Well-defined, it is pleasant and has good length.
93
>Rosso di Montalcino 2023
Cava d’Onice
Simone Nannetti’s winery, run with his wife Lucia, has made a name for itself with a very personal style, producing wines of great freshness and tension. The Rosso 2023 stands out for its clarity and elegance. On the palate, it is harmonious yet bold, flavourful and with excellent progression. It features beautifully managed tannins and a classy finish.
93
>Rosso di Montalcino 2023
Collemattoni
The Bucci family’s winery is located on the southern side of the appellation. The wine offers ripe but intact fruit on the nose, refreshed by balsamic notes, eucalyptus to be precise, and made more complex by spicy and floral aromas. Rich and juicy on the palate, slightly savoury and well balanced with the tannins, with a long aromatic finish.
92
>Rosso di Montalcino 2024
Poggio Antico
37 hectares at an altitude of 500 metres on the road from Montalcino to Sant’Angelo in Colle: the wine has an elegant and bright nose with classic hints of fresh red fruits and flowers, Mediterranean scrub, dill and undergrowth. Fresh and invigorating on the palate, it expands nicely, driven by acidity, while the round tannins interact well with the fruit, leading to a finish of good persistence.
92
>Rosso di Montalcino 2024
Querce Bettina
A family-run winery founded in 1992 on the south-western slopes of Montalcino. The Rosso 2024 is generous in fruit and solid in body, characterised by fragrant notes of wild berries and red flowers. Lively on the palate, it is enveloping and generous, with good body that expresses itself well on the palate and wins with its length and persistence.
92
>Rosso di Montalcino 2024
Talenti
Riccardo Talenti’s estate is located on the southern slope, comprising 23 hectares divided into 11 plots near S. Angelo in Colle. Rosso ‘24 has a broad and inviting bouquet, opening with strong fruity notes of cherry, blueberry and black cherry, wild flowers, Mediterranean herbs, spices and graphite. The palate is savoury and juicy, well supported by acidity, leading to a long and satisfying finish.
91
>Rosso di Montalcino 2024
Piombaia
Located in the north-east of Montalcino, the estate is run by a family that embraces biodynamic agriculture. The Rosso 2024 stands out for its juicy tannins, freshness on the palate and flavour determined by well-integrated, tasty fruit that releases with excellent balance in the centre of the mouth. The finish is flavourful and dynamic.
What to expect from Wine Paris 2026
“From the very beginning, the ambition was clear: to build an international event designed for professionals, with a strong focus on business efficiency and encounters that matter. Wine Paris was conceived as a working platform for the global wine and spirits trade,” says Cuissard.
Vinexpo Paris and Wine Paris first united in 2020, and since then the show has gone from strength to strength, recording consistent growth in attendance.
“Over time, the event has naturally broadened its scope, opening up to a wider range of categories and market players, and bringing together producers, buyers, distributors and other key stakeholders within the same ecosystem,” he continues. “What we see today is the result of that positioning. Producers come because they know they will meet buyers, importers and distributors from all major markets within a short and effective timeframe. Media and institutional stakeholders now attend the show in large numbers, reflecting the growing influence Wine Paris has gained across the industry.”
This year’s edition of the show, taking place at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles from Monday 9 to Wednesday 11 February, is expected to attract more than 6,000 exhibitors and more than 60,000 visitors, making it one of the key events in the world drinks industry’s calendar.
Ahead of the 2026 edition of Wine Paris, Gambero Rosso speaks with Nicolas Cuissard, the trade show’s director, about what to expect from the French capital from 9 to 11 February
CONFRONTING CHALLENGES
These are difficult days for the sector – declining consumption and rising costs arguably being the two most severe problems for the beverage alcohol trade – but Wine Paris has an even more important role to play as a trade fair when the circumstances are like this, according to Cuissard.
“When the market becomes more complex, professionals need places where they can see clearly and talk directly,” he argues. “Wine Paris provides a structured environment where producers, buyers and partners can meet face to face, exchange openly and adapt to new realities together. In difficult periods, nothing replaces direct contact: understanding markets, sensing demand, building trust.”
“Wine Paris is not about denying challenges,” Cuissard suggests. “It is about being pragmatic. By bringing together a very diverse international ecosystem in one place, the show helps professionals save time, identify opportunities and strengthen long-term relationships. In uncertain times, this ability to reconnect supply and demand is essential for the global wine and spirits trade.”
“There is also something less tangible, but equally important: the atmosphere,” he argues. “Wine Paris is a professional event, but it is also a convivial one. People come prepared to work, but they also come
with the desire to exchange, to reconnect, and to build relationships in a positive environment. That balance between efficiency and conviviality is a key part of the show’s identity.”
NEW FEATURES
Part of why Wine Paris has proven to be such a vital platform for the industry is due to the fact that it adapts each year.
“Wine Paris evolves year after year, always in step with what is happening in the market,” says Cuissard.
One such new area for 2026 is Be No, a new area dedicated to no-alcohol drinks with leading brands present plus 45 minute Be No Talks to discuss hot topics in the alcohol-free drinks sector.
“Consumption habits are changing,” Cuissard explains, “and producers are adapting. With this addition, we acknowledge a broader spectrum of uses, innovations and consumer expectations that now exist within the industry.”
These dedicated areas of the show have become hallmarks of Wine Paris. Another such example is Be Spirits, which was launched in 2020 and, for the first time, will be treated as a standalone event in 2026.
“Be Spirits continues to grow and affirm its identity, with its own ecosystem, audience and creative energy, reflecting the evolution of spirits, mixology and new consumption occasions.”
“Beyond that,” Cuissard continues, “we continue to work on very concrete aspects: sustainability initiatives, visitor circulation, Academy content, and business matching tools. All these evolutions have the same objective - to make Wine Paris an ever more efficient and comfortable working environment for professionals.”
THE ITALIAN PRESENCE
Wine Paris is a truly international event, with representatives from around 155 global markets flocking to the French capital over its three days. However, it has become particularly important for the Italian wine trade, with Italy contributing a sizeable contingent of both visitors and exhibitors.
‘Today, Italy is the second largest exhibiting country, just behind France, and in 2026 Italian producers will occupy Hall 5 across two levels and Hall 2.1. This clearly reflects both the strength of Italian wines and the strong mobilisation of producers,” reveals Cuissard. “Italian brands are among the most dynamic and export-oriented in the world. Wine Paris offers them direct access to a global audience, with buyers from Europe, the Americas, Asia and many other markets all present at the same time.”
“There is also a shared mindset,” he continues.
“Italian producers come to Wine Paris to do business, to position their wines and spirits internationally and to showcase the diversity of their regions in a professional, global context. Paris functions as an international hub - a place where the global drinks trade naturally meets.”
GAMBERO ROSSO
In that spirit, Gambero Rosso will be hosting a special day of tastings and awards in Room 7 - Hall 7.1 on Wednesday 11 February, the final day of the Wine Paris show.
The day begins at 10:00 with the start of the Grand Tasting, which runs until 17:00. This will involve some 50 top wineries, , producers who have reached the level of Tre Bicchieri, each presenting three different wines.
At 13:00 on 11 February in Room 2 - The Masterclasses - Hall 4 there will be a masterclass hosted by Lorenzo Ruggeri and leading French wine journalist Raoul Salamà, the class, titled Vini Rari –Beyond the ordinary, which will showcase a selection of prestigious, rare Italian wines – some of which will only be possible to taste at this event.
At 15:30 there will then be the ceremony for the Top Italian Restaurants, which recognises the French bars and restaurants that best celebrate Italian food and drink.
“Wine Paris offers the right conditions for high-level tastings because of the profile of the people attending the show,” says Cuissard. “The audience is made up of professionals who are not only buyers, but also opinion leaders - importers, sommeliers, journalists and educators - people who are genuinely curious, knowledgeable and attentive to rare wines and strong stories. Hosting exceptional tastings at Wine Paris means placing them in an environment where attention, expertise and openness are already there.”
“Collaborations with reference media such as Gambero Rosso naturally enrich the event and fully align with our ambition: to make Wine Paris a place where business, culture and excellence meet,” he concludes.
BereBene 3.0
The new 2026 guide is online and free: 1,000 excellent labels for under 20 euro
by William Pregentelli
The first digital guide to the best wines under 20 euro has just been released: 1,000 labels selected from all Italian regions. Gambero Rosso’s BereBene makes its digital debut and proves once again that finding a great wine without spending a fortune is not difficult in Italy: few countries in the world can boast such a concentration of native grape varieties, micro-territories rich in history and skills
handed down through generations. The wines tasted – starting with the national and regional “champions” presented here – tell the story of an Italy of wine made up of artisans, virtuous cooperatives and young producers who believe in territoriality and sustainability, without making the cost of their creations prohibitive. In a global market where perceived value often coincides with price, we want to reverse the perspective: the real treasure lies in the ability to recog-
nise authentic, well-made wines with a strong identity that cost less than 20 euro but offer excitement, pleasure and a strong connection to the territory. Because good wine should not remain a luxury.
White wines are the most represented type in BereBene 2026 (437), followed by red wines (425). The rest of the labels are rosé, sparkling and semi-sparkling wines, with a small number of sweet wines (20 labels). The most awarded regions are Tuscany and Piedmont (107 wines each), areas where it is really easy to find excellent quality at affordable prices, even outside the most prestigious appellations. The same applies to Veneto (105 wines) and Marche (70 labels): this is where Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore comes from, which, together with Collio (which, however, is not based on a single grape variety), is the most represented appellation in the guide.
As far as vintages are concerned, as one might imagine, most of the wines are from 2024 (539); 258 are from 2023; and 116 are from 2022. Going further back in time becomes more complicated, although we do reach 2018 with the Moscadello di Montalcino Vendemmia Tardiva Aurico from Villa Poggio Salvi. Finally, as in previous years, we wanted to summarise the spirit of the guide with a number of Special Awards: these are the “National” awards for Best Sparkling Wine, Best White Wine, Best Red Wine, Best Rosé Wine, Best Sweet Wine and Best Wine under 10 euro, along with 21 “Regional Awards”, one for each region. You can find them in the following tables.
The 6 national champions
93
>Valdobbiadene Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Brut Col Credas ’24
Adami best bubbles
One of the Adami family’s achievements is that they made Prosecco di Valdobbiadene known throughout the world before it became a global success. Among their flagship labels is Col Credas: an aromatic profile of great integrity with a very precise fruity vein enriched by citrus and aromatic herb freshness. On the palate, it is savoury and taut, incisive and effective. 19
95
>Collio Friulano V. Valeris ’24
Muzic best white
Hay, white flowers and golden apple define the nose of this pure Friulano, which comes from grapes grown on a plot of just over one hectare in the hills of San Floriano del Collio. Aged solely in steel on fine lees, it has an immediate and equally varietal palate, characterised by freshness and territorial flavour, making it a compelling drink. 16
93
>Five Roses Anniversario ’24
Leone De Castris best rosé
A historic Apulian winery, Leone De Castris cultivates vines on approximately 300 hectares in Salento and the province of Bari, focusing on promoting native grape varieties. Five Roses Anniversario ’24, the company’s iconic wine (a blend of 80% Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera), has aromas of raspberry and blackcurrant; on the pala.te, it is rich, fresh and deep.16
94
>Morellino di Scansano Ribeo ’23
Roccapesta best red
Morellino di Scansano Ribeo ’23 (93% Sangiovese with the remainder Alicante) is aged for 12 months in concrete and has aromas of flowers and ripe red berries on a smoky base, with balsamic notes. On the palate, it is decidedly enjoyable, agile and continuous, with a lively acidity that accompanies a complex and flavourful structure, ending with more fruit. 13
93
>FCO Verduzzo Friulano ’23
Jacuss best sweet wine
The Verduzzo grapes are left to dry in the fruit cellar from harvest time until December. They are then fermented and left to rest in vats for about three years. The result is an exuberant wine with notes of apricot and spices and a balsamic, slightly herbaceous undertone. It is smooth, enveloping and delicious on the palate, but also supported by adequate acidity. The finish is long and velvety. 17
93
>Grignolino d’Asti ’24
Post dal Vin –Terre del Barbera best wine under 10
This cooperative winery, founded in the late 1950s, has around thirty members who work approximately 120 hectares between Rocchetta Tanaro, Cortiglione and Masio. Produced in only 4,000 bottles, the wine offers aromas of red fruit, pepper and rose petals, with a palate of remarkable tannic density but also pleasant, smooth and immediate. 7
27
The 21 regional awards
93
>VDA Pinot Nero Coin Noble ’23
Cave des Onze Communes
Valle d’Aosta
Pinot Noir is the most representative and challenging grape variety in Oltrepò Pavese, and the Achilli family winery knows how to treat it, both in sparkling wine and in red wine production, which here offers an even broader aromatic spectrum than last year: the berry notes are complemented by delightful hints of eucalyptus and violet. 17
94
>Gavi del Comune di Gavi ’24
La Caplana Piemonte
The Guido family has a long tradition in viticulture, but it was in 1994 that La Caplana was born with its own label. The nose of Gavi del Comune di Gavi ’24 (pure Cortese grape) is intense, with beautiful notes of white fruit accompanied by vegetal and floral hints. What is most surprising, however, is the palate: crystal clear and with a great balance between pulp, length and acidity. 13
93
>Colli di Luni Vermentino Solaris ’24
La Baia del SoleFederici Liguria
The company is family-run in Ortonovo in the “scattered municipality” of Luni. The territory, exposed to the sea, with stony soil and constant ventilation, is ideal for Vermentino, which here does not produce the “classic” immediate wine: the fruity component is ennobled thanks to balsamic and iodised breezes that return in a linear and harmonious sip. 14
93
>Pinot Nero dell’Oltrepò Pavese Solonero ’22
Manuelina Lombardia
Pinot Noir is the most representative and challenging grape variety in Oltrepò Pavese, and the Achilli family winery knows how to treat it, both in sparkling wine and in red wine production, which here offers an even broader aromatic spectrum than last year: the berry notes are complemented by delightful hints of eucalyptus and violet. 13
94
>Teroldego Rotaliano ’23
Dorigati Trentino
Winemakers for five generations, the Dorigati family produces wines that represent the Trentino tradition. Teroldego ’23 offers smoky notes of a dying bonfire, punctuated by hints of black and red fruit, cherry and blueberry. The palate is subtle and delicious, but has good consistency, with a silky tannic texture and a spicy finish with good persistence. 14
94
>A.A. Santa Maddalena Cl. ’24
Pfannenstielhof –Johannes Pfeifer Alto Adige
This small winery in Rencio (Bolzano) is one of the most interesting producers of Santa Maddalena, offering an immediate and satisfying drinking experience. The 2024 vintage has aromas of wild fruit and undergrowth, with a subtle spicy note in the background. The palate is not so much based on acidity as on savouriness, and is long and harmonious. 17
94
>Lison Cl. ’23
Le Carline Veneto
The grapes for this rich and bold Lison Classico, produced on the outskirts of Venice, come from the clayey soils between the Livenza and Tagliamento rivers. Ripe yellow fruit and notes of Mediterranean scrub strike the nose from the very first moment, while the fullness convinces on the palate. Savouriness and tension conclude a sip of great pleasure and character. 10
94
>Collio Pinot Bianco ’24
Cantina Produttori di Cormòns
Friuli Venezia Giulia
This fragrant Pinot Bianco comes from the heart of the Collio crescent, the result of a brief cold maceration of the grapes and ageing in large barrels, which enhance the aromas of cedar, candied ginger and grapefruit. The palate is equally fresh, salty and even mineral, with a clean and flavourful finish, undoubtedly gastronomic. 12
91
>Lambrusco
Salamino di Santa Croce Brut Rosé 100 Vendemmie ’24
Santa Croce
Emilia Romagna
The decision to produce a sparkling Lambrusco Salamino in a rosé version is unusual, but consistent with the remarkable variety and complexity that characterise the Lambrusco landscape. Here, the lively bubbles and reduced contact with the skins give the wine an intense and fragrant aromatic profile, supported by an elegant structure and pleasant taste. 5
94
>Chianti Cl. ’22
La Sala del Torriano Toscana
The Chianti Classico ’22 from the San Casciano Val di Pesa winery is aged in steel and large wooden barrels for 12 months. Its aromas are fresh and reminiscent of wild berries, aromatic herbs and spices. On the palate, it is savoury and well-balanced, with a continuous contrast between sweet fruit and good acidity. 16
94
>Offida Pecorino ''’24
Tenuta Santori Marche
Marco Santori applies his elegant, understated style, characterised by crisp aromas, to all his labels: he does this very well with Pecorino. Aged as always in steel only, the 2024 version has aromas reminiscent of lemon peel, white peach and star anise; on the palate it is assertive, with progressive dynamics and a distinctly salty finish. 14
93
>Orvieto Cl. Sup. Piana Grande ’24
Castello di Corbara Umbria
The name Piana Grande pays homage to the history of Orvieto, recalling the vineyards of the Counts of Montemarte that were set ablaze in the 14th century. The nose offers crisp, precise fruit accompanied by mineral and minty notes. The palate is subtle but has good grit and is compact and cohesive, leading to a savoury, fresh finish. 10
>Frascati Sup. Quarto Marchese ’24 94
Casale Marchese Lazio
Vines over 40 years old produce a white wine that is both refined and incisive, aged in steel and produced in 6,000 bottles. The aromas range from aromatic herbs to darker, more complex notes of hay, hydrocarbons and spices. The palate shines with energy, especially saline, but is also voluminous and multifaceted, with long iodine and smoky notes. 15
93
>Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo ’24
Zappacosta Abruzzo
In this year’s tastings, we found a winery that is constantly growing. Adamo and Matteo Zappacosta, father and son, presented us with an interesting range with some highlights. One of these is the Cerasuolo ’24, with authentic notes of black pepper, graphite and cold fireplace; textured on the palate, energetic and rhythmic thanks to light tannins; salty finish. 11
92
>Biferno Rosso Bosco delle Guardie ’23
Tenimenti Grieco Molise
Tenimenti Grieco is the company that rose from the ashes of Masseria Flocco. This is a blend of Montepulciano and Aglianico (20%) with aromas of plum, morello cherry and black cherry, streaked with hints of sweet spices, red flowers and dark chocolate. The fruity pulp is prominent on the palate, giving way to well-structured, flavourful tannins. 16
95
>Fiano di Avellino ’24
Villa Raiano Campania
Villa Raiano takes its name from a historic location in Serino where the ancient Basso oil mill once stood, now also dedicated to 27 hectares of vineyards. The wine, with its smoky touch and hints of wet stones and hay, has an elegant and mineral taste. Fresh and thirst-quenching, it moves naturally, relaxed but never predictable, offering a subtle and intense experience. 16
94
>Aglianico del Vulture Taglio del Tralcio ’23
Re Manfredi Basilicata
The technique of pruning the vine shoots is used to achieve greater concentration in the grapes. This produces a structured red wine with intense aromas of black fruits preserved in alcohol, menthol and chocolate. The palate is opulent but also has good freshness, with a dynamic supported by acidity, refined tannins and a balsamic finish. 16
94
>Tiati Black Primitivo ’23
Teanum Puglia
Seven estates and 150 hectares of vineyards in the province of Foggia: this is where Cantina Teanum, founded in 2000 by Domenico Demaio and Vincenzo de Matteo, cultivates its native, national and international grapes. Tiati Black Primitivo offers a wide range of aromas, including plums, ripe cherries, cocoa and vanilla, along with balsamic and spicy notes. Full-bodied on the palate. 10
94
>Terre di
Cosenza Valle dei Crati Terraccia Ris. ’23
Serracavallo Calabria
Demetrio Stancati’s vineyards are located high in the hills. With sweet Magliocco and a touch of Cabernet, Terraccia ’23 is one of the most interesting wines tasted this year in Calabria. Dense and complex on the nose with hints of dark fruits, balsamic herbs and undergrowth, it is plump, full and velvety on the palate, well supported by acidity and well contained by a dense tannic structure. 16
94
>Sicilia Grillo Vignemie ’24
Intorcia Heritage Sicilia
Francesco Intorcia did not limit himself to managing the company founded by his grandfather, but developed a series of projects to promote Marsala. However, his company also has room for this label made from 100% Grillo grapes: a white wine with great personality, multifaceted aromas reminiscent of the Mediterranean, and a harmonious and flavourful taste. 11
91
>Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato Rosada ’24
Cantine di Dolianova Sardegna
The rosé vinification of Cannonau grapes gives Rosada a bouquet with clear and fresh aromas of peach, strawberry and raspberry, accompanied by a touch of mint. On the palate, it is juicy and crisp, with well-defined fruit. The finish, slightly sweet, remains harmonious and delicious, making the wine immediate, balanced and very pleasant. 11
Cheers & Cheese to the EU: when designations do the storytelling
A glass of Prosecco DOC and a piece of Grana Padano DOP: two iconic products that, together, become much more than just a pairing. ‘Cheers & Cheese to EU’ was born from the shared intuition of two Consortia with strong identities to communicate the value of certified quality, origin and sustainability to the European public through accessible yet rigorous language.
The project aims to strengthen a more conscious understanding of PDO and DOC designations, promoting the work of producers and their deep connection with their territories of origin. A journey made up of events, tastings, dinners and masterclasses that transforms promotion into a shared narrative, capable of combining gastronomic culture and information.
PROSECCO DOC: A CONTEMPORARY DRINKING STYLE
“Cheers & Cheese to EU” is fully in line with the overall strategy to promote the Prosecco DOC designation, which integrates territory, gastronomy, sustainability and the Italian lifestyle. Switzerland, a mature market sen-
sitive to issues of traceability and certified quality, was the ideal context and stage for this approach.
The key point is to shift the focus from the individual product to the system that makes it possible.
«The value of the designation is expressed when consumers understand what is behind a bottle: territory, production rules, supply chain and responsibility», emphasises the Consorzio Prosecco DOC, a member of Next Generation Pro. In this context, pairing Prosecco DOC with Grana Padano PDO reinforces the message of the designation as a guarantee of authenticity and versatility: Prosecco DOC is not just an aperitif wine, but the star of a complete gastronomic experience. Events and tastings thus become tools for communicating identity, styles and occasions for consumption, showcasing Prosecco as a wine for the whole meal, capable of dialoguing with different cuisines and cultures.
Among the key messages that emerge are: the authenticity of precise regulations, certified quality throughout the supply chain, a culture of taste and a concrete commitment to environmental and social sustainability.
«Presenting Prosecco DOC as a wine for all meals means moving beyond the idea of occasional consumption and proposing a contemporary drinking style, capable of interacting with different cuisines and cultures».
GRANA PADANO PDO: TERRITORIAL IDENTITY AND GLOBAL VISION
For Grana Padano PDO, the link between food and territory is central. Born from the agricultural vocation of the Po Valley, this cheese is the expression of a strictly controlled supply chain and knowledge rooted in history. The Consortium’s communication combines tradition and modernity, from the narration of its origins to protection against Italian sounding.
«The strength of Grana Padano PDO lies in its regulations and in the daily work of a supply chain that preserves tradition, quality and territorial identity», points out Renato Zaghini, President of the Grana Padano Consortium.
From a nutritional point of view, Grana Padano PDO is a complete food, rich in calcium and proteins of high biological value, highly digestible and naturally lactose-free, suitable for all ages and different lifestyles. The different ages offer a range of sensory experiences: from the youngest,
delicate and versatile, to the Riserva, intense and persistent, also ideal when paired with sparkling wines.
On international markets, the challenge remains that of providing consumers with accurate information, combating imitations and improper designations. Projects such as “Cheers & Cheese to EU” therefore become fundamental educational tools, supported by digital communication and legal protection of the PDO mark.
«Educating consumers about the meaning of PDO is essential, especially in international markets, where protecting origin becomes a cultural value as well as an economic one», Zaghini emphasises.
Sustainability is also a pillar for Grana Padano: environmental assessments, research and innovation projects aim to reduce the impact of the supply chain without distorting the product. For a PDO, innovation means improving processes, traceability and packaging while preserving tradition.
A LOOK TO THE FUTURE
“Cheers & Cheese to EU” tells the story of two products of excellence which, although different, share common values: origin, certified quality, sustainability and an international vision. The project demonstrates how protected designations are not just seals of approval, but living tools for communicating with consumers and building a culture of conscious, contemporary and authentic taste.
Cheers&Cheese to EU is a three-year (March 2024 – February 2027) information and promotional project co-funded by the European Union in the frame of Reg. (EU) 1144/2014 and jointly promoted by Consorzio Tutela Grana Padano PDO and Next Generation Pro, an A ssociation which reunites Prosecco DOC producers.
The aim of this project is to raise awareness on the PDO logo among European consumers and professionals, especially in the UK and Switzerland, as well as to improve the knowledge about Grana Padano PDO and Prosecco DOC in the two markets. These products a re indeed quality certified products, authentic and maximum expression of their land of origin. In addition, both Grana Padano and Prosecco producers are actively involved in the global effort to make agri -food products more sustainable and environmentally friendly.
Website: www.cheersandcheese.eu
Zurich at Lake Side: when Italy pours, Sarerland listens
by Marzio Taccetti
In Zurich, the Lake Side venue felt like a shortcut into Italy’s wine map. Not a postcard version of it - something more concrete: glasses clinking, notebooks filling up, importers scanning tables with the calm focus of people who already know what they’re looking for.
The Vini d’Italia Tour is built on a simple, but powerful idea: put producers and an audience of professionals, press and passionate drinkers in the same room long enough for real conversations to happen. The format helps. Doors open from 3 pm to 8 pm, with a dedicated trade tasting and then a wider consumer tasting, plus the ceremony for the city’s selected addresses from Top Italian
Restaurants. But the engine of the event was Zurich itself: cosmopolitan, quality-driven, and deeply trained on Italian food culture - not as nostalgia, but as a living habit.
That matters even more right now. Switzerland is a market that has been under pressure, but have again a pletora o wine enthusiasts. Official Swiss figures show that total wine imports in 2024 reached 163 million litres (down 3.6% year-on-year). In the same year, overall wine consumption was 218.4 million litres (down 7.9%), while the consumption of Swiss wine fell sharply and its market share slid to 35.5%. And here is the number that frames
Zurich’s role for Italy: Italy remains Switzerland’s top supplier, with 70 million litres imported in 2024 - almost one bottle out of every two importedahead of France (36 million litres) and Spain (around 27 million litres).
So the energy at Lake Side isn’t just enthusiasm; it’s the human face of a trade corridor that stays crucial even when the category slows down. Inside the tasting, you could feel the breadth of Italy doing what it does best: giving different drinkers different reasons to care. Alpine whites with that clean, tensile line; reds that move from bright, everyday immediacy to bottles that demand time and atten-
tion. Producers worked their tables relentlessly - less “presentation,” more exchange: What’s new on the market? How is Zurich reacting? Which styles are holding up? What’s happening to restaurant lists? The questions were as revealing as the wines.
The special guest of the evening was the I Vini del Piedmont consortium, with a display of wineries from the region. The wineries in attendance offered a tasting that allowed for a broad and representative snapshot of regional production. In a market like Switzerland, classic regions still act like magnets, and Piedmont is a reassurance because of the producer and the Nebbiolo variety that are instantly legible. But there was more than the most famous grape variety in the show range: the quiet persuasion of indigenous grapes - Nascetta, Arneis, Barbera and more - the way a red can be serious without being heavy, the way a white can carry depth without makeup. In other words, Piedmont as a living, detailed territory.
Other than wine, food in Zurich, is never just background, It can demonstrate how the city’s Italian dining scene is a network, from pizzerias that have turned consistency into identity, to wine bars that function like neighborhood embassies, to restaurants where the Italian idea evolves without losing its accent. The ceremony felt like another chapter in a wine night: a confirmation that Italy is not imported only in bottles but in rituals - service, familiarity, a shared vocabulary of taste.
What did we take back to Italy from this event? A room full of consumers, journalists, trade, rotating through the tables with purpose. And with an image like this you understand why tastings events this still matter. In a year when Switzerland imported less wine overall and drank less of it too, Lake Side offered a different metric: attention. And nowdays, is the rarest currency - and the one Italy continues to earn, glass after glass.
Top Italian Restaurants Awards
Zurich continues to confirm itself as one of Europe’s most attentive cities when it comes to Italian dining, offering a scene that moves confidently between tradition, contemporary flair, and well-defined identities. Pizza remains a strong cultural marker: Casa Gourmet and San Gennaro earn 1 Slice for their focused and honest approach, while Napulé and Mami Pizza reach 2 Slices thanks to solid technique and consistency. Standing above the rest, Luigia claims 3 Slices, setting the standard for quality, energy, and execution. Wine bars play an equally important role. Enoteca Riviera, awarded 1 Bottle, maintains a welcoming and approachable profile, while Neri Cantina & Cucina and Enoteca Capponi, both with 2 Bottles, distinguish themselves through curated selections and a strong sense of conviviality.
The restaurant landscape is broad and lively. With 1 Fork, Da Angela, Da Carlo, Italia, Osteria San Gallo, Amici, Giardino Romano, Radici, and La Poesia represent everyday Italian cooking rooted in familiarity and comfort. At a higher level, Ornellaia, Accademia del Gusto, 4 Leoni, and Gandria, all holding 2 Forks, define Zurich’s most refined Italian tables, combining technique, personality, and a clear culinary vision.
Gambero Rosso in Nigeria: a new strategic market for Italian wine
The debut of the Top Italian Wines Roadshow in Lagos confirms Nigeria as an emerging and highly promising market for italian wine
by Marco Sabellico
Italian wine is broadening its horizons.
On Wednesday 27 January, Gambero Rosso brought 50 Italian wineries to Lagos, the economic capital of Nigeria. It was the first time that the Top Italian Wines Roadshow had visited the country, but the warm welcome from trade professionals and enthusiasts alike made it clear that many more editions will follow.
“We are the country’s eighth-largest supplier; we operate in the fields of energy, technology, communications and, of course, agri-food,” Andrea Perugini, trade officer at the Italian Embassy in Abuja, who
A Tuscan Red for Black Africa: A contemporary journey through the great wine lands of Chianti
Among the standout moments of the Lagos stop of the Top Italian Wines Roadshow - an absolute premiere for Italian wine in Nigeria, arriving in force with a strong line-up of high-level producers coordinated by Gambero Rosso - the Masterclass dedicated to Chianti DOCG was a resounding success. “Chianti is the best-known and most appreciated Italian red in the world,” remarked Saverio Galli Torrini, director of the historic Consorzio Vino Chianti, in his introduction to the Masterclass.
“It is a wine that tells the story of Italy and of one of its most beloved regions, Tuscany. It’s versatile, it pairs beautifully with international cuisines - as is the case in Nigeria - and it offers outstanding value for money. As a Consorzio we have chosen to invest in emerging markets to diversify exports in this delicate global moment. Nigeria’s economy is strong; this is Africa’s most populous state, and there is an
emerging middle class with spending power, that travels and leads an elevated lifestyle. The allure of Made in Italy and of Tuscany is undeniable. We are confident that this market, if nurtured, will bring us great satisfaction.”
The packed Masterclass at the Civic Centre featured seven labels as protagonists of a journey that became both story and tasting, led by Marco Sabellico of Gambero Rosso and Folakemi Alli-Balogun , founder of the Lagos Wine Club and a key figure on Nigeria’s food-andwine scene. From the Colli Senesi to Rufina, moving from fresh, vibrant Chianti Annata to Superiore, and on to the more complex, structured Riserva bottlings, participants explored production techniques, the peculiarities of Sangiovese, and the soil-and-climate traits of the various zones that compose this fascinating Tuscan mosaic of flavor.
“The winning card of Chianti,” says Folakemi Alli-Balogun, “is its vibrant freshness, which becomes real backbone in important Riservas. It’s a versatile wine that pairs beautifully with our cuisine - from beef or chicken jollof, our national rice dish, to suya, our grilled meat, all the way to bolder flavors like asun, the barbecued goat that is later seasoned with spices and vegetables. It’s delicious served slightly cool, and depending on styles and zones it offers flavor variations that please every palate and open up a thousand pairing possibilities.”
In short, a triumph - crowned by a tasting of a 2016 Vin Santo del Chianti of fine craftsmanship and beguiling complexity. The Chianti tasting counter in the Civic Centre’s grand hall was thronged all day, to the great satisfaction of the trade in attendance. Is this the beginning of a great love story?
attended the event, tells us. “What matters is that every day we receive requests from Italian companies interested in exporting to Nigeria, while at the same time Nigerian operators approach us to establish contacts with Italy.”
The role of restaurants
It is striking that Italian wine still has a relatively small share, hovering between 5% and 10% of the market, behind France, South Africa, the United States and Spain. But if Nigeria may have been overlooked in the past, the trend of recent years is completely different. An emerging middle class has discovered wine, travels, and wants to drink well and drink Italian. And judging by the growing presence of trade professionals - clearly demonstrated by your event, which also involved the Consorzio Vino Chianti, present in the country last year - the growth is tangible. “The Nigerian community in Italy is significant - 125,000 people, the third largest outside Africa, after the United States and the United Kingdom - and there is a constant flow of operators. This is a very clear sign of growth.”
Italian restaurants play, and will continue to play, an important role in the country. There are still relatively few Italian restaurants, but they are successful, with many new openings
on the horizon. As many participants at the event told us, virtually all restaurants in the major cities feature Italian dishes on their menus, with pasta and pizza now firmly embedded in local dining habits.
“I grew up in Italy,” says Benedict Ozuku, chef and owner of Osteria De Nonni, one of the new Italian openings that is attracting attention. “My cuisine is inspired by Tuscany and Calabrian tradition. It’s a particular mix, but it’s proving successful. And Italian wine is growing here. We love Italy and its flavours.”
Osteria De Nonni, along with Farfallino by chef Filippo Inzirillo (who also runs Cactus), Forno Lagos and The Smiths by Keide and Taiwo Smith, has received recognition from our Top Italian Restaurants Guide. A promising start for the country’s most populous city, with 22 million inhabitants.
Market feedback
Nigeria is also the most populous country on the continent, with 230 million inhabitants, and a steadily growing economy that consistently ranks among the top four in Africa.
“Nigeria is a country with enormous entrepreneurial and commercial potential, and we are very close,” says Italian Ambassador Roberto Mengoni, who attended the event together with the Consul General in Lagos, Ugo Boni, and delivered a welcome speech. “It has an extremely interesting cultural scene, ranging from art to cinema and music, which we have supported and accompanied from independence to today. And 2026 has begun with prospects for further improvements in exchanges and relations.”
The flow of visitors through the halls of the Civic Centre was uninterrupted, from noon to 8 p.m. Among the highlights were the packed masterclasses. The first, dedicated to discovering the terroirs and wines of Chianti, was led by Marco Sabellico together with Folakemi Alli-Balogun, wine expert and founder of The Wine Club Lagos, which brings together hundreds of enthusiasts from the city and beyond. The masterclass dedicated to the Roadshow wineries was also a success, with Italy’s great wines once again making their mark. “It’s a winning formula,” concludes Eugenia Corradi, export manager of the Marilisa Allegrini Group. “All the country’s major operators were there today, and we initiated important negotiations. We believe this market will bring us great satisfaction.”
Go Kenya, go!!!
For the third year running, the Roadshow is coming to Kenya.
With over 40 producers presenting their top wines, it is confirmed as the most important wine event of the year in the country
by Marzio Taccetti
Shamba, the picturesque colonial farm in the Loresho area, surrounded by greenery, is now synonymous with great Italian wines for Kenyan wine lovers. But that’s not all. On January 30, for the third year in a row, the roadshow landed in Kenya. And the results of the work done in previous editions were immediately palpable. From noon to 7 p.m., there was an uninterrupted flow of visitors, which we estimated to be 30% higher than last year. Enthusiasts, but above all operators, restaurateurs, and wine distributors came for the occasion
not only from tourist resorts on the coast but also from Uganda and Tanzania. Giuseppe Manenti, director of the ITA office in Nairobi, has no doubts: “Italian wine is now the third largest force here in Kenya, a market that is still small but growing rapidly. The scene is dominated by South African wines, with 45%, with France in second place. But in recent years - in a scenario of constant growth - while South African wines are losing appeal, Italian wine is gaining ground, with double-digit average annual growth.” Thomas Rajoola is a journalist for the Daily Nation, Sunday
Nation, and Business Daily, and writes for weekly and daily newspapers. We asked him to describe the Italian wine market. “We import a lot from South Africa, France, and Spain, but Italian wine has a brilliant image. It is different from the usual varietal wines, and I would say that it exerts a sophisticated charm on consumers. And this is not only true of the big names. There is always something new to discover with you (laughs). Much of this success is due to the restaurant industry. Italian cuisine is obviously at the forefront, but now you can find high-quality
Italian wines on all wine lists and in wine shops and wine bars. We are discovering wine, starting with young people, and there are constantly new openings, new places where wine is the star. Wine drinkers project a sophisticated, cultured, health-conscious image. Most of the consumption takes place within the family, and ultimately wine is a drink that satisfies everyone, has the right alcohol content, and goes well with food. In short, drinking wine is chic even among young people. And we at Nation Media see this: for example, the food and wine pairing columns
Top Italian Restaurants Awards
At the award ceremony, 26 certificates were bestowed by the Top Italian Restaurants in the World Guide, ranging from pizzerias to ice cream parlors, wine bars to Italian specialty food shops—a new category in the Guide, awarded with “bags” (or shoppers)—ending with the classic Forks for restaurants and a selection of establishments still “under investigation” by our team. This is a very important result in a country which, as Italian Ambassador Vincenzo Del Monaco pointed out, has the strongest economy in East Africa and enjoys consolidated and growing relations with Italy. There is continuous exchange between our countries, and more and more Italian entrepreneurs are present and investing in the country, beyond the tourism sector, where we have always been at the forefront. We also realized this ourselves on the evening that the Ambassador dedicated to the Roadshow wine producers and Gambero Rosso in his splendid residence, a beautiful 1920s villa surrounded by greenery in the Mutahiga district, where numerous entrepreneurs and representatives of the most important Italian companies operating in Kenya were invited, from energy to electronics to agricultural machinery to healthcare.
All in all, it was an extraordinarily positive day, judging by the enthusiastic comments from producers and participants, with two masterclasses held by Marco Sabellico and Victoria Mulu-Muniwoki, a well-known Kenyan wine expert, which were, as usual, sold out. “Italy is very popular in Kenya,” concludes Rohan Malde, Food and Beverage Manager at the Sankara Hotel, “and we too will soon be opening a new Italian restaurant, or rather... Roman restaurant, in the hotel. The chef is currently in Rome to learn more about your extraordinary cuisine...” It really is a case of saying “Go Kenya, go!”
that appear in our media on Fridays are very popular. Wine in Kenya is taking off, and Italian wine is doing very well. In short, there is a climate of great enthusiasm. “The trade agreement between the EU and Kenya is bearing fruit,” adds Manenti of ITA. “There is still work to be done on excise duties, but Italian wine has grown by 200% in 10 years, with
an increase of 5 to over 10% per year. This is the result of teamwork. Whereas before there were only a few Italians importing, now many operators are Kenyan, and there is room for growth. The important thing is to create initiatives and be present on the market. The Gambero Rosso event has become a key happening for this part of Africa.”
food
Endless rivalry >The Guides
Rome and Milan are chock with informal, unconventional restaurants that look to the world and the future
by Antonella De Santis and Valentina Marino
Rome and Milan are locked in an endless derby, chasing each other in terms of new openings and trends in food and wine. While the capital – the official one – is rewriting its love of tradition with a new concept of time and the pleasure of conviviality, Milan is developing its own formats: from green to multi-ethnic. Here is a brief journey through the new features of the two Gambero Rosso city guides that have just been presented.
Roma
Exploring Rome means entering a multifaceted city that is often experienced neighbourhood by neighbourhood, but which is ready to reveal itself in all its beautiful complexity. It
In the opening, the dining room at Shell Libreria e Bistrot in Rome (photo by Luigi Filetici)
is a dynamic place with unshakeable traditions and sudden bursts of innovation: a city that encompasses a thousand cities, each with its own rules, fashions and customs, which sometimes intersect and sometimes ignore each other without a second thought. Thus, taking a snapshot of the past gastronomic year in Rome and Lazio means immersing oneself in a mixed fabric whose threads conceal great classics not to be missed, traditional establishments and others of new tradition, original and often minimalist formulas as well as others that are much more elaborate, celebrating haute cuisine in all its rituality. It means selecting a shortlist of establishments – 1,100 with 120 new additions – and also being amazed at how the historic centre of Rome is home to some of the city’s best restaurants, of all kinds and levels, which are a bastion of quality, not only gastronomic but also human, with stories that span years
The two new Gambero Rosso city guides are now available in bookshops and newsstands: Rome and the best of Lazio focuses on the capital. The other part is from Milan and tells the story of a very diverse and complex region.
and generations, intertwining with the history of the city. These are counterbalanced by constantly growing peripheral realities, an expression of a centrifugal force that creates extremely relevant gastronomic satellites. We saw it with Fiumicino, and for a couple of years now we have been seeing it with Tivoli, a concrete expression of a germination that is perhaps the most interesting aspect of a metropolis that contains multitudes. The germination of gastronomic citadels, neighbourhoods and streets (such as Via di Torre Clementina, home to one of the best openings of the year: Ippolito), of trends and entrepreneurial projects often (but not always) created
Le Città
Le Città
At Madrigale in Tivoli, a new concept in fine dining on the outskirts of Rome
by young people who find ways to break free from the obstacles of a territory that can be enchanting but can also be full of complications. They do so by embracing clever, seductive formulas that give space to talent and quality, creating a lively atmosphere that appeals to people. These are examples of happy degrowth, where kiosks, bakeries, gourmet bars and market stalls offer opportunities for quick stops and complete satisfaction (as in the case of Tante Care Cose), but also intellectual stimulation. We have already mentioned wine bars with small kitchens on other occasions, and we can now confirm that the bottle and small plate formula is becoming
increasingly popular (see L’Antidoto, which won over the editorial staff with an offering that ranks among the best in the city without losing the indie vibe that has always been its distinguishing feature). These are projects that take nothing away from the rest, from those who are faithful to tradition and those who want to rewrite it; from the many who work on gastronomic history without looking back, but delving deep, perhaps inventing dishes upon dishes that express the soul of Rome with consistency but in complete freedom. We love this mix: it brings flavour and knowledge. And it can be found in a thousand nuances that define a new rural cuisine (in one of the best openings of the year, Al Madrigale) as well as in the most successful expressions of international cuisine, which is finally reaching full maturity, in crossovers between cultural and culinary spaces (which are essentially the same
thing) such as Shell, and in the most sophisticated forms of catering, which, however, increasingly speak a personal vocabulary and become an expression of gastronomic identity. And the new Tre Forchette, Zia, tells precisely this story: Antonio Ziantoni is focused, aware, and as polite in his manner as his restaurant is in its surroundings, which house a cuisine that has steadily found its expressiveness. We also like to note how the province and other provinces are home to incredible places that have been through history or are ready to start making history with them. We have been talking about the coast south of Rome for years, and this time we are doing so with an additional reason: to rally around the family of Mara Severin and that of Essenza as a whole. Mara’s passing is a huge tragedy, and we want to remember her by naming the sommelier of the year award after her.
Milan and Lombardy
The past year has been a complicated one for Milan, where, from several points of view, the perception of the Lombard capital as a model of efficiency and forward-thinking administration, a cosmopolitan capital ranked among the most important centres in Northern Europe, has been called into question. It was therefore impossible to ignore this turbulent – more than usual – and contradictory scenario, between cranes and glass buildings, new neighbourhoods such as Cascina Merlata or SoPa (South of Prada) and vast areas undergoing regeneration, during our usual journey
to discover the best food in the capital and Lombardy.
Never before, in fact, have we strived so hard to interpret such a confusing and complex moment through the lens of food and wine as we did in the 2026 edition of Milan and the Best of Lombardy. And it is precisely the restaurant sector that has, despite everything, confirmed “the myth”. Milan remains the epicentre of a dynamic regional system, responsive to international trends, charismatic and attractive for major entrepreneurial ventures. Of the more than 1,200 establishments listed, 140 are the most significant new additions, the result of a rigorous selection process from the continuous flow of openings, changes and multiplications of locations. And despite the volatility of the
Milan: the counter at Sushi Matsu Omakase, where you eat in front of the two chefs, Daigo Wakui and Taka Matsu
market, the bar continues to rise in every category: from increasingly “inclusive” haute cuisine to cutting-edge cuisine that starts with the local area (see the extraordinary work of Michele Valotti at La Madia); from the immersive hospitality of the newly created category of agritourism (one of the four new additions this year is Quac, in Bereguardo, an enlightened agricultural enterprise in the heart of the Ticino Park where everything is designed with balance and circularity in mind), to the increasingly detailed account of world cuisines: omakase is all the rage, the kippo tradition from Kyoto
is arriving, and Filipino wine bars and Brazilian bakeries are springing up. All this without forgetting the great passions of the Milanese: Neapolitan and Roman pizza – we are the second city in Italy in terms of number of pizzerias – and Roman cuisine. There are 700 establishments in Milan and its province alone, with 17 regional restaurants awarded the highest score – Three Forks, Prawns, Bottles, Tables, International Cuisine and Pizzerias. A record that is being renewed. Among the current trends are book and listening bars: Mogo, a recreational space with a Hi-Fi system for high-quality sound performances designed by Yoji Tokuyoshi, is another of the 4 New Entries of the Year, together with the return to the kitchen of Eugenio Roncoroni with his Classici Gastronomici and Sushi Matsu Omakase, destined to become
a new five-star reference point for Japanese cuisine.
Other provinces are not lagging behind in this upgrade, starting with the thriving Brescia, driven by Lake Garda, with 145 establishments under its belt, to the “small” Lodi, which is slowly but surely making its mark in the wine and food scene thanks to the driving force of courageous pioneers. Take La Coldana, a fine dining project that has hit the mark in just a few years and has been confirmed as one of the 12 Ambassadors of the Territory (one per province plus a special one that has just celebrated its 25th anniversary, Antica Osteria del Cerreto in Abbadia Cerreto, in the Lodi area), the most authoritative establishments in terms of short supply chains and preservation of local heritage. Finally, the two new Tre Forchette restaurants, both surprising: Contrada
Bricconi in Oltressenda Alta (Bergamo), an agricultural gem and a visionary project that has revived a 15th-century village where animals are now raised, cheese is produced and an intelligent and authentic mountain lifestyle is practised; and Il Luogo Aimo e Nadia in Milan, a national monument that lost its founder, Aimo Moroni, a few months ago. The Restaurateur of the Year award is dedicated to him and was presented to the Motelombroso team, which this year also won the avant-garde “rocket” award. This recognition is due to an unrivalled master of hosting, literally restoring body and soul, whose teachings are and will remain more relevant than ever.
i.
Eugenio Roncoroni’s new Milanese adventure with his Classici Gastronomici
Rome. Time regained
>Shell Libreria Bistrot
It used to be a workshop, and the memory of this past remains in the sign. Shell refers to the fuel brand of the same name, but also suggests the idea of a shell that holds a treasure. More than one treasure, to tell the truth: as the sign says, it is a bookshop and bistro, but also an event space. This is thanks to the nearby Schiattarella architecture studio, a name well known even among non-professionals, which is responsible for the rebirth of this space, where they wanted to create first and foremost a meeting place, and then fill it with quality. Starting with books, around 8,500 titles: there is plenty of space here, and the best things to read, browse, listen to, watch and taste have been put here. The wines, for example: an intelligent choice, with good, often niche products served with a nonchalance that does not intimidate but welcomes and draws you in. This is demonstrated by the constantly growing list, based on natural wines and organised in an intelligent way, in-
cluding timeless, fun and extreme wines, all offering excellent value for money. It is also capable of educating new, conscious consumers. When it comes to food, the approach is the same: simple, tasty, original dishes, created based on a direct relationship that fosters open and productive dialogue with suppliers. These are the most interesting names on the scene: Pulicaro, Giovale, Faraoni, Roccia, Gamberoni and so on. And it is no coincidence: among the ranks of this place is Lele Gabelloni, who worked at the Gamberoni shop. The kitchen is entrusted to Natale Recine, a Canadian with Italian roots, «a plus», explains Gabelloni, «because he is freer, has great respect for tradition, but his vision is without superstructures». The menu is available all day long, dynamic and free from rules other than those of taste and enjoyment: whether it’s yeast-based products, pancakes or yoghurt for breakfast, or pastrami sandwiches with homemade porchetta for lunch, not to mention potato gnocchi with cacciatora
R oma – vicolo della F ontana , 28 06 8672 6388 – shell R oma . it
ragù or a version of Mac & Cheese that will reconcile you with the Anglo-Saxon dish. «We didn’t expect this response and involvement», says Gabelloni. «We started out with the ambition of creating a centre of great cultural contamination, which inevitably also has to have an important food and wine component». The response has been a driving force: «It has allowed us to experiment and be more daring with greater confidence, while trying to maintain our small bistro tradition». Then there is a cultural programme consisting of regular meetings, book presentations and concerts, such as the Sunday concerts with Santa Cecilia, which make Shell one of the best openings of the year. Because it speaks of quality, knowledge and culture in all its expressions.
A dish by Natale Recine, a Canadian chef with Italian roots (photo by Alessandro Barattelli). Next door, the Shell dining room seen from the outside.
>Ippolito
If Via di Torre Clementina is increasingly becoming known as the street for good food and drink, it is partly thanks to Luca Pezzetta, who, since opening his first restaurant, Pizzeria Clementina, has focused on this street that runs alongside the canal. He was certainly not the first to arrive here, but he is the one who has planted the most flags. The latest – after Micro Forno – is called Ippolito. A signature tavern that breaks free from the automatisms of Fiumicino seafood cuisine to find its own definition, which nods to tradition with the added touch of someone who knows a thing or two. So, cappelletti in broth is fine, but so are sautéed mussels with seasonal vegetables or with a slice of crispy bread (Luca Pezzetta bakes some of the best in Lazio) and rabbit liver pâté, giving space to a renewed interest in offal and the dialogue between land and sea, or lamb stew with yoghurt and puntarelle, which opens up synapses and connects different stories, tales and
F iumicino – v ia della t o RR e c lementina , 158 b 392 846 1233 – ippolito F iumicino . it
flavours. In this unique, large and delicious melting pot, there is also room for home-style cooking (what about octopus and beans?), references to different traditions – such as the mixed pasta with potatoes and mussels that takes us a little towards Campania with a touch of umami from the sea – and various other dishes, as they say.
This is because the helm, firmly in the hands of Marco Fedeli and Andrea Alberghetti, is steering straight towards excellence: «a culinary duo that lives in symbiosis: they discuss dishes together, study them together, bringing both their experiences to bear, and are trying to write their own story». It is a new code that confirms how trattorias, when well thought out and well managed, still have a lot to say by playing freely with tradition and memory. And even if the history of this place sets the pace, the market and the territory do so even more: that of Fiumicino, about 230 square kilometres of great biodiversity (complete with a Biodistrict)
and a very wide range of products. Most of the raw materials come from local producers, the fish auction and the boats that often knock on the door on their return to offer the latest catch, which feeds a cuisine based on local, inexpensive fish, together with meat, dairy products and vegetables that tell the story of the area around Rome. Not to mention, of course, the added value of bread and leavened products from the Micro Forno di casa Pezzetta, which responds to the question: «It’s a young, fresh project, but it’s also a comforting place where you feel at home, with those windows overlooking the square, the colours and the warm lights». After all, isn’t that what you ask of a tavern?
Ippolito’s dining room in Fiumicino (photo by Slevin). On the left, spaghetti with lupini clams, chilli peppers and bottarga (photo by Romanogmt)
>Tante Care Cose
‘Tante Care Cose’ (Many Dear Things) were once parting words, with a confidential, auspicious formula, now a little faded but so evocative that it has given its title to at least one album and a couple of books in the last 4 or 5 years alone. This is a clear sign that this somewhat dated phrase evokes something, perhaps a sense of nostalgia for times gone by, but above all for the ability to focus attention on the many dear things that can be found in a place. ‘We wanted to find a name that would make people think about the things that make a place feel good,’ says Andrea Lazazzera, who, together with his brother Marco, is the heart and soul of this project. He explains: «It had to be an extension of our living room and our way of being». And the goal – achieved from the very beginning – was to create a place where you could meet people to spend an evening with. To create a mobile community, some might say, with
the unusual formula of small plates and something to drink on the side. Unlike many wine bars with small kitchens, here there is little wine, only draught beer, the bare minimum of beers, and a few soft drinks, all at hyper-competitive prices (from £2.50 for a glass of beer); the focus is on food, following the model of the most inclusive tapas bars: a few small dishes and a glass of wine on the go. A lively offering that does not require reflection but rather spontaneous enjoyment, with a minimal menu, but full of the right things, good and original. Things that surprise and make you think, mixing different cultures. “Our approach to food always starts with the ingredient, but we add techniques, flavours and aromas, the result of our experience and our way of understanding cuisine”. Here, recipes, ingredients and procedures are mixed together in a disorderly but extremely precise way (a legacy of Andrea’s long experience alongside
spice wizard Francesco Apreda), reinventing ‘nduja with carrots, enriching cauliflower with ssamjang, brown butter and grapefruit, or pork neck with Peruvian causa and Brussels sprouts, and dusting off the Vienneta ice cream cake. And we love this gastronomic melting pot and we love this gastrobar that reinvents the classic neighbourhood snack bar with a new, intelligent model that responds to an era in which doing business is not easy but there is a terrible need to come together around projects that have ideas, personality and quality. And it doesn’t matter if the classic rituals of catering are missing, in fact, it’s better that way
The Roman restaurant inspired by tapas bars, run by Andrea and Marco Lazazzera: a few small dishes and a quick glass of wine
>Al Madrigale
«We wanted to offer authentic cuisine», says chef Gian Marco Bianchi, who quickly adds: «Being in Tivoli, which is close to Abruzzo, it was natural to focus on transhumance».
At Al Madrigale, they have chosen to celebrate the practice of livestock migration – an intangible heritage of humanity – in a signature dining context, filtering this rural tradition, which is familiar to many, into the codes of haute cuisine, with that reference to roots and memory «but which had not yet been touched upon in fine dining». They took it upon themselves to «remodel it to make it more interesting from a technical and taste point of view».
At Madrigale, fine dining “inspired by the values and flavours of transhumance”, explains chef Gian Marco Bianchi
t ivoli (R m ) – via p onte G R e G o R iano , 1 0774 011261 – almad R i G ale it
This is a heritage made up of techniques, flavours and products that tell our most humble story, one that does not appear in school books or signature cookbooks. Yet it is part of many of us. Bianchi was able to see this, bringing it to light and at the same time strengthening a region that is rediscovering its gastronomic importance thanks to a group that, together with Madrigale, has already established a couple of other restaurants in the area, different in style but not in attitude. It is an approach that has been well received: “The cuisine we strive to create is ecumenical in terms of the memories we want to bring back to people’s minds and ecumenical in terms of the flavours we want them to taste. We don’t want people to feel uncomfortable, but we want to stir up memories.” The shepherd’s ravioli is emblematic of this: filled with ricotta and herbs, glazed with meat jus and flakes of seasoned beef
heart in memory of the dried meat used during transhumance. It is one example, among many, of how they handle this pastoral tradition, which is as archaic as it is overlooked. Another is the bread served with sheep ventricina or the panpepato at the end of the meal. These ideas arose almost spontaneously, coming to the surface from Bianchi’s taste memory. Supported by a solid team, the same one that works at Acquolina in Rome, he treated them with dedication and full respect, but also with simplicity, reworking them in a contemporary key, trying to keep the flavours as direct and understandable as possible, with the support of the most suitable producers to corroborate this philosophy. «Having a very clear identity from the outset helped us a lot», he says, «but we didn’t know how it would develop, and we were also prepared to rethink it if it didn’t work».
Milan. Contemporary soul
>Roncoroni Classici Gastronomici
Reading the name of the restaurant opened in May 2025 by Eugenio Roncoroni at Colonne di San Lorenzo, one might think of a place with white tablecloths and pure white gestures, reassuring and bourgeois. Nothing could be further from the truth. It is an unclassifiable, “anarchic”, highly personal establishment, where Roncoroni and his partner Cristina Giordano prepare bistronomic dishes at the counter that look more to France and a certain metropolitan and cultured United States than to Italy. «It’s one of those places where, after a bad day at work, you come here and feel at home. And then we cook proper food, not useless stuff», explains the founder. A Milanese from Porta Romana, with a Californian mother, who worked his way up in a trattoria in the city and then gained “serious” experience in the US, the founder, together with the late Beniamino Nespor (his long-time partner who died in 2016), of the
well-known Al Mercato, followed by the noodle bar and taco bar, was back on track until last May with Pas, the travelling vegetarian street food (which will soon became a permanent spot in a store in Porta Venezia). And then, back to a real restaurant. Fourteen seats, five of which are at the counter itself, a stand-up kitchen performance in a very small space with very limited resources in what used to be a seafood sandwich bar where «everything speaks of us and our discomfort... The marble set into the counter is from the Al Mercato taco bar, the tables are my mum’s and Cristina’s mum’s, we spent an afternoon choosing the rugs for the floor, and the sign was handmade by some guys in Turin. «I really wanted to have one with my name on it, like in the shops of yesteryear», explains the chef. As for the dishes, there is a section dedicated to tastings, there are always Paolo Parisi eggs (for example with slightly mustardy mayonnaise and sorrel), red anchovies desalted by hand
m ilano – via d e a micis , 4 02 325751
Chicken salad and pâté en croûte: two “gastronomic classics” by Eugenio Roncoroni
with tomato paste, sugar, salt, vinegar, parsley and garlic (as Cristina’s mother used to make them), or creations such as Organo di mare, a fish dish dedicated to Mexico and California. And then there are the main dishes such as Insalata di gallina, «a retro dish that we have kept Italian-style, baked in the oven and then shredded and served with roasted skin, a Piedmontese tuna sauce and homemade daikon, instead of turnips or giardiniera». And, drum roll, no pasta: «it makes no sense to go out to eat what you can make at home». Roncoroni docet.
>Sushi Matsu Omakase
Is there still room in Milan for a new high-end Japanese restaurant? And isn’t there a risk that the omakase formula will become tiresome?
Sushi Matsu Omakase, not far from Corso Buenos Aires, sweeps away any doubts. Yes, there is a desperate need for a place like Matsu, as there always is for anything excellent. Opened on 1st October, it offers an omakase formula in its most straightforward and geometric form, without compromise. A light wood counter with 12 seats, two chefs at the front, the expert Hirohiko Shimizu (formerly of Basara and a great conversationalist) and the younger Daigo Wakui, wielding beautiful knives of various shapes, with the elegant owner Taka Matsu supervising and a couple of young men running elegantly around the room. On the wall is a large inscription in ideograms: «Every encounter is unique», translates Shimizu. Everyone eats at the same time (there are two sittings in the evening,
one at 7pm and one at 9.15pm), latecomers are frowned upon, and you let yourself be surprised by what the market has to offer that day, because excellent raw ingredients are essential to the success of the venture. While the content of each moment is undefined, the menu is fixed: it starts with Otsumami, a selection of small seasonal appetisers (such as a triumphant sashimi of tuna marinated in soy sauce), followed by a selection of sashimi, then Yakizakana, the catch of the day cooked on the grill (for example, a very meaty sea bass with yuzu powder). Next come light wooden boxes containing geometrically arranged pieces of fish and meat: these are the ingredients that will be used to prepare a series of nigiri with rare skill, «to be eaten as soon as possible as a sign of respect for those who caught the fish and those who prepared it». Finally, a hand roll, a roll of nori seaweed filled with rice, bluefin tuna and spring
m ilano – via a c adamosto , 7 02 45397128 - sushimatsuomakase . com
onion. And a dessert, Montblanc with Matcha tea. Other magnificent things: the atmosphere created among the diners - everyone talks to everyone else - the friendliness of Shimizu, the classic Japanese who pretends not to speak Italian well only to then surprise you with a barrage of jokes and “guaglio” (a term of endearment), the truly enchanting tableware, the wooden cabinet with strange handles behind the chefs: a traditional Japanese refrigerator that preserves ingredients with ice, thus eliminating the need for electricity. There is a remarkable collection of fine sparkling wines, great whites and a few reds, as well as sake. The experience and quality of the ingredients, the very small number of diners and even the average gross happiness make the cost reasonable, but certainly not for everyone. Pity.
Two “pieces” of chef Taka Matsu’s omakase journey
>Quac Zelata
Quac is the sound of the night heron flying low over the canals of Ticino, and it is also the name of Ca’ del Quac, the wooden house on stilts where Giulia Maria Crespi (founder of FAI, ed.) retired in the years when she imagined the Cascine Orsine. This place was born from a territory, from an agricultural memory and from a direct relationship with what grows and lives around it. No cassoeula or stracotti with polenta, but dishes that come from the vegetable garden, the herbs in the park and biodynamic agriculture: the Quac Zelata restaurant is located within the Cascine Orsine, one of the best-known and longest-running farms in the sector, and is run by Linda Dacomi and Willian Floreancing, a couple in life and work. The two arrived here in 2023 after years of significant experience abroad and in Italy, and then launched an agricultural catering project that opened in June of the same year.
But a few months later, a fire forced them to tem-
b e R e G ua R do ( pv ) – c ascine o R sine , 5 0382 430130 – quac . it
porarily move to the Zelata farmhouse. The adventure continued, and indeed grew stronger. When they reopened in 2025, the direction was clear: farm-totable cuisine and a human approach to management. «At first we had one two-year-old child, now we have two. So we immediately set human rhythms: closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, Sunday lunch only, then Wednesday, Thursday and Friday dinner only». Cascine Orsine, on the other hand, was founded in the 1970s following a radical decision by Giulia Maria Crespi to transform the family’s former hunting reserve into a biodynamic farm. A few kilometres from Milan, on over 800 hectares of land, woods, rice fields and pastures now coexist. The basic principle here is not yield, but circularity. The cows produce manure that becomes fertiliser, the fertiliser nourishes the fields, the meadows are left to rest for rotation, the woods protect biodiversity, and the hedges form a natural barrier. «Cascine Orsine must remain a living and
somewhat wild place», says Paravicini, and Quac Zelata is its natural gastronomic extension. The menu changes every week, following the produce of the vegetable garden: «Most of the raw materials come from the farm or other local farms. We want to introduce people to a different, more contemporary idea of agritourism, linked to plants but without ideology». Willian is an expert in foraging and often collects wild herbs in the Ticino Park. He uses them to flavour oils and condiments or to make things like focaccia with zaatar made from herbs from the park. The wine list is entirely from Lombardy and neighbouring provinces, and there is also a shop, open every day, where you can find vegetables from the garden, rice, cheeses, flours and other products from Cascine Orsine.
Quac by Linda Dacomi and Willian Floreancing: dishes created using produce from the garden at Cascine Orsine
>Mogo Milano
In a city like Milan, always on the hunt for something new, one of the latest trends is listening bars, a successful format that originated in Japan in the 1950s as jazz kissa cafés. After studying the formula in Tokyo, Yoji Tokuyoshi, who worked as sous-chef to Massimo Bottura at the Osteria Francescana in Modena until 2014 before moving to Milan to strike out on his own, came up with Mogo, a listening or rather “hi-fi bar and dining” venue, which opened on 16 April 2025 in the Isola district. Chronologically speaking, this is the latest in a series of successful entrepreneurial ideas: after the high-profile restaurant of the same name, Yoji invented Bentoteca, which started during the pandemic as a takeaway formula and evolved into a wine bar with cuisine, replacing his first restaurant (because “even a katsusando can be fine dining”, in his words), and then Alter Ego in Tokyo and, again in Milan, Katsusanderia at the Mercato Isola
an international club where you can eat, drink and listen to music from a high-quality Hi-Fi system. «A place in tune with the Milanese lifestyle that maintains the care and quality of the food. The cuisine is accessible: 8-10 dishes expressing the fusion of Japanese, Italian and French gastronomy. Including brunch and business lunch, always at a fair price» says the owner, who, needless to say, relies on his usual trusted suppliers for excellent raw ingredients and also aims high when it comes to beverages. A few examples? Chicken yakitori and okonomiyaki with courgette flowers, paired with drinks, natural wines, sake and Japanese whiskies. An immersive experience combining fine dining, mixology and live music.
and Pan e Piccolo Pan, respectively a bakery and a takeaway workshop that opened more recently. Mogo is like their son in every way, embodying the philosophy pursued by the failed pharmacist originally from Tottori. In other words, «simple does not mean cheap», as he is keen to point out, referring to the stereotypes that the all-you-can-eat sushi subculture has helped to spread. In Sotho, a language spoken in South Africa and the rest of Southern Africa, the name means “together, union”, and indeed it is a recreational space for sharing, with a 360-degree counter taking centre stage in the 400 square metre industrial-style dining room (carved wood, “distressed” velvets, steel and washi paper) and a cool, bright atmosphere during the day and a cosy, charming atmosphere in the evening. In addition to the outdoor seating area and terrace, there is also a private room, a cosy environment where you can go barefoot. In short, m ilano – via b e R nina , 1/ c 02 89051069
Mogo, chef Yoji Tokuyoshi’s latest creation, where izakaya tradition meets Milanese conviviality
The best penne pasta, non-ribbed
Artisanal penne pasta: we blind tasted 20 products from small traditional companies. Twelve made it into the rankings, led by Pasta di Gragnano Igp
by Mara Nocilla – photos by Francesco Vignali
Remember what happened during lockdown? In the rush to buy groceries, only unribbed penne pasta remained on the empty shelves of Milanese supermarkets, left there as a second-rate product, the Cinderella of shopping. Yet, in the ranking of the most popular pasta shapes among Italians, penne comes in second place after spaghetti. A position not achieved thanks to the smooth variety, obviously: the packets that survived the compulsive buying in the early days of the Covid era are proof of this. Statistically, therefore, the preference is for penne rigate. «Their advantages: they offer a larger surface area for collecting sauce and perform better in terms of taste, texture and chewiness», explains Francesco Barba, Vice President of Pasta Product Development & Industrialisation at Barilla Group. The choice of ridges is suitable for pasta obtained through high-productivity industrial processes, with Teflon drawing and drying at high temperatures, around 100 degrees, which make the surface dark and, above all, glassy. But macaroni made using
traditional methods employed by small Italian pasta factories, especially in the south, with bronze drawing and drying below 55 degrees, have a porous surface that is rough to the touch and naturally able to interact with the sauce. For some, the ridges in the pasta are even a limitation. «It doesn’t cook evenly», points out chef Gennaro Esposito «At the end of cooking, the ridges will be overcooked, tending to flake and release starch, disturbing the sauce and detracting from the dish». Furthermore, this creaminess detracts from the shape, does not help to enhance its geometry on the palate, and interferes with chewing. «You can’t compare it to the elegance and linearity of smooth pasta», observes Alberto Zampino, CEO of the Gentile pasta factory in Gragnano. «A pasta shape’s ability to embrace the sauce does not depend on its ridges but on the porosity of its surface». Penne pasta has a specific origin, place and date of birth, invented in 1865 in San Martino d’Albaro (now a district of Genoa) by pasta maker Giovanni Battista Capurro. He designed and patented a machine for
cutting pasta with a slanted, flute-like or pen-like profile with well-defined edges. Initially, penne were smooth. «That’s how they were created and that’s how we continue to make them», says Dino Martelli, head of a family of pasta makers in Lari, in the hills of Pisa, which produces only five shapes, all without ridges, as was once the case. The success of penne lies in their linearity and simplicity. «These are its strengths: for a shape to work, it must not have any joints», emphasises Emidio Mansi, commercial director of the Garofalo pasta factory. Ridges are a later addition, due in part to technological developments and changing tastes. «From simple dies consisting of a single drawing tool, in the 20th century we moved on to more complex ones, able of supporting new production processes and producing shapes of the most varied and unusual forms, including ribbed ones», adds Francesco Barba of Barilla. It is a matter of taste, palatability, and more or less complex or basic shapes. But penne also tells us a lot about Italy, a country divided in two even on the surface of the maca-
roni. «For people from Campania, and southerners in general, pasta is smooth», says Alberto Zampino from Gragnano, «unlike in the north, where pasta factories use Teflon dies and add ridges to give the shapes a handmade feel». But ultimately, it is not just a question of production techniques. While the tradition of pasta is deeply rooted in southern Italy, linked to the smooth surface of its origins, in the far north there is a culture of rice, soups and polenta. «In the 1970s, when I was working in Milan, pasta was available but less widespread than it is today,», says Marino Niola, anthropologist, journalist and science communicator. «Even now, in the north, people prefer ridged pasta, partly because the culture of tube-shaped “macaroni” is more recent and became part of people’s habits when ridging was introduced».
To redeem this mistreated pasta shape, we have dedicated this month’s ranking to smooth penne from small artisan pasta makers who follow the traditional method: bronze dies, low-temperature drying below 55 degrees, slow rhythms, quantities
produced in a year that the industry produces in a few hours. The panel that participated in the blind test consisted of two chefs and sensory analysis experts. Sixteen products were in the running, most of them from southern Italy. Gragnano wins the “top 12” ranking with its Pasta Igp and six excellent pasta makers that take the top positions and the highest number of Gamberi “prawn” rating system.
T he T as T ing panel included :
Gabriella Ciofetta, extra virgin olive oil taster
Arcangelo Dandini, chef-owner of L’Arcangelo restaurant, Chorus Café and Supplizio street food restaurant, Rome
Eugenio Marini, editorial staff of Gambero Rosso
Mara Nocilla, editorial staff of Gambero Rosso
Tiziano Noro, sous chef at INEO Restaurant, Rome
The best penne pasta, non-ribbed
>Gentile
Penne Gragnano Igp
>Gerardo Di Nola
Penne lisce Gragnano Igp
>28 Pastai
Penne zite lisce Gragnano Igp
>Caterina
Penna ruvida
>Pastai Gragnanesi
Penne zite Gragnano Igp
>Pastificio dei Campi
Penne ziti lisce Gragnano Igp
>D’Amicis
Penne lisce
>Faella
Penne lisce Gragnano Igp
>Graziano
Penne lisce
>Mancini
Penne lisce
>Martelli
Penne classiche
>Terre di Biccari
Penne
We are reintroducing our most distinctive symbol: The “Gamberi” rating Symbol: prawn Scored are given by the average of the individual votes of the tasters: One Prawn from 70 to 79 points (good); Two Prawns from 80 to 89 (very good); Three Prawns from 90 upwards (excellent).
>Gerardo Di Nola >28 Pastai >Gentile
They are the largest penne among those in the running, which also grow during cooking, but are anything but coarse. They are also among the most beautiful and well-made: well-drawn and precise, with a delicately porous and rough skin of a bright golden colour. The aroma is no less impressive, explosive, engaging and clean, with hints of good fresh semolina and freshly baked bread. The sensations on the palate are also satisfying: full-bodied, sweet and complete, consistent with the aroma, excellent texture and firmness after exactly 10 minutes of cooking. These are the Pasta di Gragnano PGI penne produced by Gentile IL 1650, one of the best pasta makers in the home of macaroni, an ancient mill along the Valle dei Mulini transformed 10 years ago by the Zampino family into a pasta factory (at number 1 Via Castello). The semolina is obtained from selected durum wheat grown and milled in Italy, in the Marche and Umbria regions. The production process, overseen entirely by Natale and Pasquale Zampino, father and son, involves bronze drawing and slow drying at low temperatures according to the ancient “Cirillo method”, between 48 and 50 degrees for 40-48 hours, in warm, humid and ventilated rooms.
Gragnano (NA) - via Castello, 12 0818013417 pastificiogentile.com
This product is proof of the positive mark left by Giovanni Assante, entrepreneur and master pasta maker who passed away in 2020, who relaunched and restored prestige to the historic Gragnano pasta factory, which has been in operation for over 150 years. A company with an eventful past: founded in 1870, it moved to Castellammare di Stabia in the 1930s, where it continued to produce high-quality pasta until 1995; followed by two decades of stagnation, and finally a return to Gragnano in 2015, to the premises that once housed the oldest pasta factory in the “city of macaroni”, where Assante, the company’s long-standing commercial director, took over the brand and resumed production. Today, his wife Ada and daughter Maria Elena run the company and produce over 50 types of pasta: selected Italian durum wheat semolina, bronze-drawn and slowly dried at low temperatures ranging from 38 to no more than 50 degrees. Gerardo Di Nola’s smooth penne, certified Pasta di Gragnano PGI, are beautiful, golden and elegant, vibrant in appearance and porous to the touch, fragrant with good fresh semolina, tasty and persistent but also refined, firm to the bite and with good cooking properties. Power and grace.
Gragnano (NA) – via Roma, 25 0818733451 – gerardodinola.it
They are perhaps the most beautiful penne in the contest: long, elegant, uniform and perfect, with a tapered body and porous skin of a sunny light amber colour. They are produced with 100% Italian durum wheat, grown in the Frentano hills, certified pesticide and glyphosate free, by this young Gragnano macaroni company founded in 2019 in the Valle dei Mulini, where 28 pasta factories and mills operated in the early 1800s, using water and energy supplied by the Forma spring. ‘The operational headquarters are located where a factory that was a symbol of Gragnano once stood,“ explains Elena Elefante, CEO of 28 Pastai, ‘the former Emidio Di Nola mill and pasta factory, founded in 1934 on the premises of another factory, the Parlato pasta factory”. The penne maintain their shape and perfection even after cooking (drain them one minute longer than the time indicated on the label). The appearance is consistent with the olfactory and gustatory performance: the scent and aromas are reminiscent of good fresh semolina and the environment where the pasta is produced (just a hint of citrus in the raw pasta), the taste is sweet, balanced and clean, and the texture is slightly chewy but with a good bite.
Gragnano (NA) – via Nuova San Leone, 3 0813623333 – 28pastai.it
Penne Gragnano Igp
Penne lisce Gragnano Igp
Penne zite lisce Gragnano Igp
>Caterina
Penna ruvida
>Pastai Gragnanesi
Penne zite Gragnano Igp
>Pastificio dei Campi
Penne ziti lisce Gragnano Igp
This pasta brand is less well known than other well-established brands in the niche market, but it is no less exciting. It is made by Pietro Claudio Labanca, who inherited the pasta-making tradition from his grandmother Caterina and produces short, long, small, special and giant tube shaped pastasi. The durum wheat used is of the Pigreco variety, grown in Puglia and Basilicata. The production process follows tradition: bronze drawing and drying at very low temperatures, between 30 and 33 degrees. Its coarse “penne ruvide” are small (but almost double in size when cooked), perfect, with a thin wall and a delicately porous surface reminiscent of raw silk. These “baby” penne inspire tenderness and evoke the world of childhood: light in colour, with a youthful and playful aroma with notes of fresh semolina intertwined with sugary hints (peas, milk bread, pastries), a mild (but far from anonymous) aromatic profile, and a sweet, delicate and clean, almost maternal flavour. The slightly muscular, ‘soft’ but not toothless texture also recalls childhood. Original and refined penne, to be enjoyed dressed only with oil and, at most, Parmesan cheese. Cooks in 7-8 minutes instead of 6.
It is a historic cooperative founded in 1980 by the children and descendants of Gragnano pasta makers with the aim of taking up the baton from their fathers and promoting the traditional production of macaroni in the world capital of pasta. In the pasta factory, which was renovated between 2008 and 2011, with the modernisation of all the machinery, automation and digitisation of part of the production process, over 60 types of pasta are produced, including common, special and ancient shapes, using Italian durum wheat, bronze drawing and slow drying in static cells at a temperature between 48 and 50 degrees. The cooperative’s penne zite are beautiful, perfect and uniform in length, shape, size and colour, with a bright yellow hue reminiscent of wheat ripened in the sun and a delicately porous surface that is rough to the touch. The aroma and bouquet are lively and original, reminiscent of sweet dried vegetables (similar to sun-dried tomatoes), fresh semolina and freshly baked bread. They have a distinctive bite and a sweet, gentle but persistent flavour. Cooking time is precise, al dente in 10 minutes.
Gragnano (NA) via G. della Rocca, 20 0818012975 – pastaigragnanesi.it
The pasta in Di Martino’s top-of-therange line, produced with 100% Italian durum wheat, bronze-drawn and dried at no more than 52 degrees, is recognisable by its innovative and sophisticated packaging, the iconic red and black cardboard cube with windows displaying portraits of the key players in the supply chain, from farmer Mario to packer Aniello. The durum wheat used is of the Saragolla, Pietrafitta, Grecale and Kore varieties and is grown in the Dauno Subappennino area. The smooth penne ziti, one of the most traditional shapes among the almost 60 in the range, are appealing not only for their designer packaging: they are well-made, perfect and uniform in their elongated shape, with a porous skin and the light golden colour of the wheat. Their colour, shape, appearance and rough, almost grainy surface are maintained even after exactly 9 minutes of cooking. The aromatic profile is delicate and clean, with hints of wheat fields, farmyards and warm bread from the oven, accompanied by hints of yeast. The sweet and fresh taste gives a sensation of fullness, cleanliness and precision in a bite with good texture, slightly sticky. Excellent cooking resistance.
Gragnano (NA) – via dei Campi, 50 – 0818018430 pastificiodeicampi.it
>Faella >Graziano >D’Amicis
Penne lisce
One of the strengths of the D’Amicis family, artisan pasta makers since 1980, is the quality of their raw materials, selected varieties of 100% Italian durum wheat from Molise, Basilicata and, above all, the Tavoliere delle Puglie, Italy’s breadbasket. The processing is no less important: prolonged kneading, bronze drawing, slow drying at low temperatures, never above 42 degrees, for about 24 hours. The Foggia-based pasta factory produces over 100 types of pasta distributed across seven lines: durum wheat semolina (66 shapes), egg, fresh, organic, wholemeal, ‘Grano mio km 0’ (single-grain closed supply chain, made with Senatore Cappelli wheat from the company’s own farm in Agro di Serracapriola) and the premium Famiglia D’Amicis, a carefully selected range in recyclable packaging, available in different types. From the wide selection of penne, we tasted the classic smooth ones from the basic line. Very light and porous, medium in size, which almost doubles in size when cooked, when raw they have an intense and clean smell of powerful wheat with hints of farmyard and countryside, sensations that tend to fade during cooking. Medium firmness and slightly chewy texture.
Serracapriola (FG) – c.da San Rocco
0882682690 pastificiodamicis.com
Penne lisce Gragnano Igp
The maccheroni from the historic Faella pasta factory, located in Italy’s pasta capital since 1870, can be recognised by their unmistakable packaging: the classic paper bag with the colours of the old Gragnano pasta packets (white, red and blue) and the 1930s lettering reminiscent of the Fiat logo from the same period. Over 150 years of uninterrupted activity (in its current location in Piazza Marconi since 1907), now run by the grandchildren of Gaetano Faella, the founder. The semolina is made from Italian durum wheat (Antalis, Maestà, Sfinge and Saragolla) grown in Puglia, Molise and Basilicata. The processing is traditional, with bronze drawing and drying at temperatures not exceeding 48 degrees for about 30 hours. The advantage of Faella’s smooth penne is its appearance, a mix of perfection, artistic vibrancy and elegance in its golden colour, which it retains when cooked, in its matt and porous skin, and in the uniformity of its shape and size. The aroma is reminiscent of wheat, semolina and bread crust, but also of the farmyard and the countryside, while the taste is more timid than the aroma and less defined. The pasta has a nice texture (thickness) but is not very firm and slightly chewy.
Gragnano (NA) piazza G. Marconi, 13/14 0818012985 – pastificiofaella.it
Graziano is a young pasta factory in Irpinia, founded in 2017, which has made a name for itself with pasta lines made using dies of different metals: silver and platinum, alongside the traditional bronze ones. Otherwise, the Monocalzati-based company, run by brothers Alfonso and Andrea D’Urso, uses the same raw materials and follows the same processing criteria: it uses a mix of durum wheat varieties grown and milled in Puglia, and all 42 pasta shapes are dried slowly at a low temperature, between 45 and 50 degrees, for 24 hours in the case of short pasta. We tasted the classic smooth bronze penne. Small, rough and porous, they are uneven in length and colour, ranging from intense ivory to amber tending towards ochre. However, they redeem themselves in terms of aroma and taste. The aroma and flavour profile are delicate but clear, fresh and complex, with notes of young semolina and baked goods, reminiscent of farmyards and the countryside. The taste is sweet, gentle and precise, consistent with the aroma, untainted by foreign notes, enhanced by a good texture and a firm bite.
Monocalzati (AV)
c.da Starze 0825534751 – pastificiograziano.it
Penne lisce
>Mancini
Penne lisce
>Martelli
Penne classiche
>Terre di Biccari
Penne
Massimo Mancini’s pasta factory, established in 2010, is the evolution of the farm founded in 1938 by his grandfather Mariano. In the early 2000s, Massimo, an agronomist by training, began his adventure in pasta making, using noble grains grown on his own land in the hills around Monte San Pietrangeli, in the Fermano area on the border with the province of Macerata, and collaborating with artisan pasta makers. Less than a decade later, his passion for macaroni was perfected and the supply chain was completed: the pasta factory was born, a traditional facility with bronze dies and low-temperature drying cells, which transforms the company’s raw materials – Maestà, Nazareno, Nonno Mariano and Farah durum wheat, plus turanico, an ancient subspecies of durum wheat – into over 30 types of pasta. Only the mill is outside the supply chain, but it is still located in the Marche region. The smooth penne, dried at a temperature range of 36 to 55 degrees for 22 hours, have a robust and muscular texture (slightly chewy), a bronze colour and a slightly porous and rough skin to the touch, a sweet and persistent taste, and a mild and clean aromatic profile, with hints of wood and bread crust.
Monte San Pietrangeli (FM) via E. Paoletti, 1 0734969311 – pastamancini.com
Martelli, which will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2026, is unique in the world of macaroni. It is the only pasta factory in the world located inside a castle, in the medieval village of Lari, in the hills of Pisa. It produces only five types of pasta, all made with selected Italian durum wheat semolina, ground by Molino Borgioli in Calenzano, using traditional methods and old vintage machines, bronze-drawn and slowly dried in wooden cells at 33-37 degrees: in one year, it produces as much as an industrial pasta factory does in five hours. The entire family works there, eight people who divide their time between the dough mixer, the dies, the dryer and the packaging, which is still done manually. It also has another record: it is the only macaroni manufacturer in Italy that does not produce penne rigate, only smooth penne, which the Martelli family calls “classic”. Smaller than average, they are uneven in colour and length and give off a distinctive smell of fresh semolina with citrus notes, almost lemony, but clean and pleasant. Their sweet taste and aromatic bouquet, characteristic and precise, are particularly appealing. Good texture, slightly slippery and chewy.
Lari (PI) – via dei Pastifici, 3 0587684238 – famigliamartelli.it
Other closed-chain pens. These are produced by Terre di Biccari, a consortium founded in 2017 by five friends who grow durum wheat (free of glyphosate, DON and agrochemical residues) in the Agro di Biccari area of the Dauni Mountains and process it in their own pasta factory, established in 2022. Only the mill is outside the supply chain, but it is located in the same municipality as the consortium. A blend of five varieties of durum wheat grown by the consortium’s farms is transformed into three lines of pasta: premium in 17 shapes and two specialities, made from Senatore Cappelli single-grain wheat and spelt. The processing is traditional, with bronze drawing and slow drying for 8 to 30 hours, depending on the shape, at temperatures not exceeding 40 degrees. Long and with a large diameter, with a rough and porous golden skin, Terre di Biccari smooth penne increase in size during cooking, becoming almost a special shape. The aroma and flavour are mild but defined and clean, with hints of semolina and bread crust. They have a good bite but are slightly sticky. Drain one minute earlier than what the box says.
Biccari (FG) – via San Marco c/o Mercato, km 0 3391174470 terredibiccari.it
Recipes from up-and-coming chefs
TOMMASO TONIONI
photos by Stefano D’Elia
Born in Rome Age 36
Resident in Castel Giorgio (TR)
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Darling Blue – Marcus King Band
LATEST BOOK READ
Sul gusto (o del gusto)
Saggi di filosofia gastronomica
di Nicolò Scaglioni
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Cow fat
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What I can’t find
THE DISH OF A LIFETIME
Aubergine soup (Yoshihiro Murata)
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Pierre Gagnaire
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Paolo Meneguz
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Barbaric (Valencia)
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Falso Papiro – Cantina Anonima
HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF…
Breeder
DISHES
Fig ‘nduia
Grilled tripe, heirloom tomatoes, mastic oil
Roast chicken
Chocolate terrine, plum jam and syrup-preserved fir tree
OF THE RESTAURANT
RESTAURANT CONTACTS
Orvieto (TR)
Piazza del Duomo, 8 0763214228 arsorestaurant.com
SEATS
40
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE AT Bonci
KITCHEN BRIGADE
Giuseppe Pancari
DINING ROOM MAITRE
Michael Girgenti
INGREDIENTS
1 kg fresh figs
30 g salt
20 g sugar
2 cloves of garlic
10 g sweet chilli powder
20 g hot chilli powder
Rustic sourdough bread
>‘fig
‘nduja
Wash the figs, cut them in half, place them on a baking tray and cover them with the other ingredients. Season the figs well, place them in an airtight glass container, weigh them down to ensure they are submerged in the fermentation liquid, and leave to rest for at least 4-5 days at room temperature.
Once this time has elapsed, drain the figs from the liquid, place them on a baking tray and dry them at 60°C for 2 hours.
Reduce them through a mincer and, if you want to make it similar to ‘nduja, you can stuff it into a casing or store it in a jar. Toast the bread and spread the fig ‘nduja on top.
INGREDIENTS
For the sauce:
3 kg of heirloom tomatoes
4 onions
2 cloves of garlic
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Pepper Mastic oil
For the tripe:
1 kg of tripe
Salt
Extra virgin olive oil
>Grilled tripe, heirloom tomatoes, mastic oil
For the tomato sauce: select heirloom tomatoes, cut them in half and roast them in the oven at 180°C for 30 minutes. Sauté the garlic and onions, once cooked add the roasted tomatoes and cook for half an hour, stirring occasionally, season with salt and pepper. Blend everything together.
Boil the tripe in salted water until cooked through.
Slice it to your liking, place it in a bowl and season with salt and oil, then grill it in a special perforated pan. After grilling, toss it in a pan with the tomato sauce and then plate, finishing the dish with a drizzle of mastic oil.
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE
1 whole chicken, gutted 5 litres water
500 g salt
For the stock: 4 chicken carcasses
6 onions
1 head of garlic Black pepper Bay leaves Rosemary Fennel pollen Red wine
>Roast chicken
Salt-brine the chicken for 24 hours.
After this time, dry it and cold-smoke it with dry hay for half an hour. Then keep the chicken in the fridge for at least another 2 days to dry the skin, and finally roast it in the oven at 200°C for 20 minutes.
For the chicken stock: brown the onions and garlic in a deep pan, once everything is well caramelised, add the previously roasted carcasses, deglaze with red wine and cover with water.
Cook for 5 hours, strain and reduce. To serve, debone the chicken and serve it with its stock.
INGREDIENTS
For the terrine:
500 g 80% chocolate
250 g butter
150 g sugar
375 g whole eggs
For the compote:
500 g plums
150 g sugar
2 g tonka beans
1 pinch of salt
For the sprouts:
300 g fir sprouts
250 g sugar
250 g water
>Chocolate terrine, plum jam and syruppreserved fir tree
Prepare the terrine: melt the butter and chocolate in a bain-marie, beat the eggs and sugar and gently heat the cream. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C. Combine everything, place in a terrine dish and bake in a bain-marie for 20 minutes, immediately lowering the oven temperature to 160°C. Cool and then cut. For the compote: wash the plums, remove the stones, add the sugar and leave to marinate overnight. Then cook for 1 hour, adding a pinch of salt and the grated tonka bean.
For the fir sprouts: dissolve the sugar in the water, the remove from the heat and pour the syrup over the fresh fir sprouts placed in a glass jar and leave to cool. To serve, place a slice of terrine on a plate, add a spoonful of plum compote and garnish with a couple of fir sprouts in syrup.
