Page 1

fashion / beauty / lifestyle / Hollywood / glamour

spotlight spring/summer issue

editor’s letter With spring upon us, time is flying. I love this time of year as flowers bloom and trees blossom, making way for the (hopefully) hot summer nights. Spring/summer fashion is full of colour and prints to brighten up any day. What a perfect time to launch the new fashion and lifestyle magazine, Spotlight! A fresh take on vintage media, inspired by old Hollywood glamour but for a contemporary, fashionable woman. After longing to find a magazine that incorporates my love of Golden Age cinema, glamour and fashion – it has resulted in the birth of Spotlight. This issue is bursting with fashion inspiration from spring/summer 18 trends, highlights from the catwalks, summer essentials and more. Spotlight is dedicated to vintage lovers with an ever-evolving love of fashion, albeit contemporary or vintage. An easy read, packed full of fashion and beauty trends, interviews, features and more. Grab an issue of Spotlight, to sit back and relax. Visit Spotlight’s website for more articles, photos and videos. Why not follow Spotlight’s social media pages to ensure you receive updates on fashion, beauty and good old-school glamour. Until the next issue...

Gabrielle smith Gabrielle Smith, Editor and Chief


Spotlight Spotlight is a biannual fashion and lifestyle magazine for the everyday, modern woman. This magazine will present current fashion trends and styles, with influence from old Hollywood glamour and vintage fashion. Spotlight will expose the prominence of vintage trends in contemporary fashion, creating chic, wearable modern looks.

If old Hollywood glamour gave the fashion industry anything, it gave it the very definition of the word ‘classic’. - Style and Creativity in Fashion





Model -Emily Smith Photographer - Gaby Smith Hair stylist - Alexyi Glamore MUA - Zainab Jiwa Red gown, ASOS, £30 Vintage fur cape, photographers own Earings, Store Twenty One, £4 Old Hollywood lamp, MADE, £120

contents fashion


6 What’s Hot

21-28 SS18 Beauty Shoot

7 Summer Essentials

23 Best Beauty Trends

8-12 SS18 Fashion Trends 13 Stiletto’s End of an Era 39-43 SS18 Top Picks 44-55 Iconic Fashion in Hollywood Film 82-85 Modern Vintage

features 36-37 Long Live Hubert De Givenchy 58-61 Animals on the Big Screen


62-63 Spotlight on Bette Davis

31 Top 5 Vintage Markets

69-73 The Golden Age of Drag

32 Top 5 Cinemas in London

75 Familiar Faces 76-79 Vinyl Revival 80-81 Spotlight on Funny




64-67 Dominique De Merteuil

29 Feud: Bette & Joan 33 Brief Encounter

15-19 Ankita Singh

35 The Fashion Chronicles

Illustration by Zuzzanna Calkosz


what’s hot

Spotlight loves... A trend that will be worn by fashion students everywhere. Gone are the days of oversized sunnies, making way for the tiny sunglass trend. A must-have accessory on Prada, Mui Mui and Louis Vuitton SS18 runways. Spotlight is loving the sleek, skinny shade look.

With vintage florals, checks and polka dots all set to be the trends for SS18. Spotlight suggests switching it up. Mixning contrasting prints will create the ultimate high fashion look for less. Be creative. Be confident. Now everyone has moved on from the must sought after hat, the beret. Fashion lovers everywhere, are now rocking the ‘baker boy’ hat. Street styles are overloaded with images of the baker boy trend and Spotlight is a fan.

Spotlight suggests adding a chic pair of opera length gloves to your summer outfit. Fashions love affair with gloves has made its comeback. Marc Jacobs, Ederm, Calvin Klein and Off White displayed their variations of the opera length gloves. Beaded, plain, bold and black.

Spotlight remains indecisive about the return of the belt bag trend. From Gucci, to Mulberry. Everyone is producing their version of the bum bag. Far from the comedic tourist, belt bags have become a high fashion and must-have summer accessory. Get yourself fesitval ready.

Another questionable fashion trend, the biking shorts. Yeezy displayed a vareity of spandex-esque biking shorts at his Yeezy 4 collection. Biking shorts are best left for the cycling fanatics, not the fashion elite.

Clumpy trainers, a big fashion faux pas. Balenciaga, Yeezy and Louis Vuitton all followed in suit, cashing in on the ugly trainer trend. Spotlight suggests avoiding this trainer trend unless you want to look like you raided the lost property.

Spotlight hates... Images coiurtesy of ASOS, FarFetch, Pintrest, Selfridges, Balenciaga, Lyst


what’s hot

summer essentials Spotlights editor, Gaby Smith, selects this summers must-haves and essentials. Ensuring you’re summer chic ready

2. This Topshop polka dot satin wrap midi skirt, is perfect for the late night summer breeze. Dress it up or down, you will be bang on trend. £42

1. This black braided, wide brim back sun hat from Zara is perfect for those hot summer days. Look chic as you stroll across the beach. £25.99 3. These pink rounded sunglasses with tinted lenses, from ASOS, will accessorise any summer outfit. £18

4. A must have holiday aeccessory, the pool float. Grab a funky flamingo float at Urban Outfitters now. £35 6. These Fuji Film polariod camera are perfect for anyone wanting to capture those special moments. Perfect for creating collages and albums, the instant photos are a holiday essential. £79

5. This mustard button down, tie midi dress ticks every box for your summer wardrobe. Grab yours from Missguided now. £28

8. This Pull&Bear red stripe swimsuit can be worn lazing by the pool or layered with a floaty midi skirt or touosers. The perfect day-to-night transition. £12.99

7. Add a pop of colour to your summer wardrobe with these ornage sandals from Office. Comfortbale yet fashionable. £28

Images coiurtesy of Zara, Topshop, ASOS, Urban Outfitters, Missguided, Office and Pull & Bear



Simon Miller Armani


Tom Ford

Victoria Beckham

trouser suits

Trouser suits have become a permanent fixture on the runways. The trouser suit can be one of the best investments for your spring/summer wardrobe. Whether it’s perfectly tailored, a bold statement or something more subtle. There are a variety of silhouettes, colour palettes and styles out there for you to try.

Pull and Bear £19.99

Topshop £30 Zara £29.99

Bershka £21.50 Pretty Little Thing £25 Images courtesy of Vogue Runway, Pull & Bear, Zara, Topshop, Bershka, Pretty Little Thing



Salvatore Ferragamo Aquilano Rimondi



Max Mara

pencil skirts

With Net-A-Porter predicting the pencil skirt silhouette to be its big seller this summer, make sure to get your hands on one. The pencil skirt often makes its fashion comeback, and has become a staple fashion trend. This season, the pencil skirt has a more flattering shape, with the longer skirt elongating the legs and slimming the body.

New Look £12 Miss Selfridge £10

Topshop £10

Oasis £10

Zara £5.99

Images courtesy of Vogue Runway, Miss Selfridge, New Look, Oasis, Topshop, Zara



Off White Dolce & Gabbana

Carolina Herrera



polka dot

A signature Princess Di. This season polka dots have made their comeback. Polka dot skirts, trousers, jumpsuits and tops are set to be the big trend for spring/summer 2018. The dotty trend can be either minimalist or a bold statement. Keep it monochrome, keep it modern.

Zara £49.99 Bershka £29.99

Jigsaw £140

Motel Rocks £10

Nasty Gal £28

Images courtesy of Vogue Runway, Bershka, Zara, Jigsaw, Motel Rocks, Nasty Gal



Victoria Beckham



Acne Studios

Bottega Venta


Pink, lilac, mint or lemon. Pastels are the colour for the season. The power pastels were seen on an array of SS18 runways, mixing the pastel shades like Céline, for the ultimate summer look.

Monki £50

Pull and Bear

Zara £29.99


Bershka £49.99

Topshop £22

Images courtesy of Vogue Runway, Monki, Pull & Bear, Zara, Bershka, Topshop



Christopher Kane

Emilia Wickstead

Dolce & Gabbana



vintage florals

Florals for spring, ground breaking... Vintage florals reminiscent of the 1950s housewife, but with a fashion upgrade. Runways have seen fashion houses adding their individual aesthetic to the vintage floral tea dress. Pair the print with sheer fabrics, or high neck blouses and power shorts for a chic summer look.

H&M £13.99

Monki £40

Zara £50

Missguided £30 River Island £30

Images courtesy of Vogue Runway, H&M, Monki, Missguided, River Island, Zara



stiletto’s end of an era? Net-a-porter has revealed that lower heel heights have overtaken sales of high heels. Towering stilettos have long been the shoe of choice for women wanting to elongate their legs and feel fabulous. 2018 sales figures have shown that heels under the height of 3 inches have overtaken the sale of high heels (4 inches or above), for the first time ever

It has long been said, that male designers invented the high heel stiletto without acknowledging comfort or walkability. Paparazzi shots of various celebrities see stilettos being worn to the mall, grocery shopping and even just for a short stroll. A report from the luxury e-commerce site, NetA-Porter, has revealed that 2018 could be the year women ditch the stilettos for a more comfortable and wearable shoe.

or hated, but a chunkier heel can be a more suitable ternative to the stiletto. Wedge heels are also a popular summer shoe; heel height can vary from comfortable platform to a higher fashion shoe.” Despite the health issues raised in relation to the constant wearing of high heels; several women feel a stiletto heel can add an air of confidence. Fashion lover and air hostess Chloe Allen, discusses her love of the high heel “I love wearing high heels, they are in my uniform for my job but they are always my go to shoe for a night out. Although my heels for work are a lot lower than my shoes I like to wear out. They make you feel taller, thinner and just all round more fabulous”.

According to the Mail Online ,a spokesperson for Net-A-Porter reported that, “In 2018, while high heels [4in] still represent around 20 per cent of our shoe business, the new heel height [3in] is fast becoming more and more popular and we expect this trend to grow.” With trainers set to be a hot trend for SS18, there’s no doubt the sales of stilettos will continue to decrease. Freelance fashion stylists, Phoebe Adams reveals several alternatives to the high heel from the chunkier heel, wedge heel or the infamous kitten heel ,“there are more and more options out there for people who prefer lower heels. The kitten heel is either loved

Zara perspex mules £69.99

Is it the end of the stiletto era? Only time will tell. With more and more women opting for fashionable wedges or lower heels, it will be interesting to see if sales will continue to drop. Spotlight has selected some summer wedges and chic lower heel alternatives, for those who are ready to ditch the stiletto.

River Island metallic wedges £60

Zara mustard mules £49.99


Rebel London silver mules £50


blogger, ankita singh’s street style With the increasing popularity of blogging and Instagram street style’s, Spotlight introduces up and coming fashion blogger Ankita Singh Text by Gaby Smith Based in London, Ankita Singh is a fashion and lifestyle blogger, under the name of Tad Bit Fad. After completing a Masters in Fashion Retail Management at the renowned London College of Fashion, Ankita developed her blog and Instagram in a bid to keep up with the ever-changing fashion world. Ankita’s blog is a mode of self-expression, describing it as a way of portraying “my own style on a visual medium”. Ankita discusses the meaning behind her name for the blog ‘Tad Bit Fad’, which she says resonates with her personal style and fashion. The fashion lover states that her style isn’t centred around current fashion trends and fads; but “an emulation of my moods” to which she selects colours and prints, combined with classic trends and styles. Ankita’s career goal of creating a niche fashion narrative through her blog is currently in the making, so keep your eyes peeled. Spotlight is a fan of Ankita’s contrasting bold colours, fusion of cultures and exuding confidence. When asked for her advice to budding bloggers and fashion lovers, Ankita suggests that confidence is key, “I immensely enjoy blogging and believe if your are certain, confident and have a great idea, you can start late and still conquer.” To see more street style and images, follow Ankita Singh on Instagram @tadbitfad Blazer dress: River Island Shoes: Charles and Keith



Skirt and blouse: Zara Shoes: Eileen Fisher








Photohraphy by: Kristjån Czåko /@ visualimpactunlimited Top and skirt: River Island Shoes: Anditalian Boutique



Bold Blue Model: Sinead Macinnes MUA: Ellie Morris Photographer: Gaby Smith



OTT Liner Model: Lara Levy


Spotlight’s best beauty trends Hot off the runway. Here are the top beauty trends for spring/summer 18. From bright blues to classic rouge. Spotlight breaks down the top make up trends for that summer look. Whether it’s a subtle glow or thick bold eyeliner; this season there really is a make-up trend for everyone. Make-up artist and expert, Ellie Morris, gives the lowdown on her top beauty trends for SS18 Red Lips

Bold Blue

The lip trend for spring/summer 18 focuses on warmer hues of red. Think orangey reds and brick reds. Bulmarine exuded old Hollywood glamour, with a cleanly applied bold red ombré lip, with otherwise soft and subtle make up. Max Mara saw models with minimal understated makeup, with a vibrant matte red lip. Sonia Rykiel used orangey red tones, with a glossy lip complementing a subtle peach blush. This year, the focus wasn’t on the cleanly applied lip and liner, but a glossy and soft finish with many opting for a subtle smudged lip. So don’t worry about constantly checking your lipstick. SS18 makes way for an over lined or bold smudged lip, creating a soft and glossy look.

Blue is the colour for SS18. Multiple hues of blue were prevalent on many catwalks this season. Blue eyes are the must-have beauty trend. Renowned make-up artist, Pat McGrath used bold blocks of blue at Marni, meanwhile Tom Pecheux echoed the natural waterfalls and rain at Chanel SS18; adding a blue smokey eye all the way up to the brows with a heavy metallic blue on the lower lash line. From subtle blue liner, to bright blue eyeshadow. This look is worth a try. EXPERT: No doubt the colour of the season. From Chanel to Marni, everyone is going crazy for the bold blue. Whether you want to try a subtle blue tint or a bold bright blue, you’ll be bang on trend with this make up look.

OTT Liner

In addition to the return of the sleek retro eyeliner, catwalks were swamped with unique variations on black eyeliner. Pat McGrath at Tom Ford added an exaggerated rounded wing with a hint of sliver glitter. Whilst brands such as: John Galliano, Rochas and Natasha Zinko added more geometric shaped eyeliner, outlining the negative space around the eye down to the lower lash line. Whether you want to try the detailed geometric eyeliner shapes, or a bold rounded liner look; be sure to experiment with either black gel or a classic pencil to create your OTT liner look. Be brave, be bold. EXPERT: I love this look, it incorporates traditional old Hollywood glamour with a modern and high fashion twist. Straight from the runways, this look is definitely worth a try!

Glitter Disco Vibes

SS18 catwalks saw a return of the glitter beauty trend. This year glitter is used to create an edgy, punk look. Glitter encrusted eyes made a statement at Dries Van Noten, Jeremy Scott and Francesco Scognamiglio’s shows. From a smudged, smokey eye with a hint of glitter at Gucci and Ashish, to bold coloured glitter eyes right up to the brow at Francesco Scognamiglio and Jour Ne. This trend is certainly the statement for SS18. EXPERT: This look is a showstopper. A touch of glitter, with a smudged smoky eye or a pop of gliiter with jewel encrusted eyes. There are so many things to play around with, with the glitter trend. With festival season around the corner, this trend is perfectly timed.


Dewy Skin

A subtle peachy eye is one of Spotlight’s top beauty trends for SS18. A slight peach, tea stained eyeshadow complements an understated make up look. Not quite orange or brown, the peachy eye adds a healthy glow to a minimal look. Mila Schon used the peach tones to create a minimalist, summery look. With minimal foundation and lips, the focal point remained on the soft eyes. Whilst Cynthia Rowley featured models with soft peachy, smokey eyes and pink lips. The epitome of a summer romance.

The ‘glassing’ trend, started in Korea; adds luminance and a glazed finish to your make up look. The key trend focuses on dewy, glossy skin instead of opting for a shimmery highlight. At both Saint Laurent and Altuzarra, the focus was on creating a barely-there make-up look, with light reflective creams giving a strobed, dewy effect. Not only does this enhance one’s natural beauty: maximum glow and dewy skin will add to a chic spring/summer look under the natural sunlight.




Glitter Disco Vibes Model: Tatyana Tarassenko



Peachy Model: Alina Mihai








spotlight’s must watch

fx presents Image courtesy of

feud: bette and joan The TV series based on the infamous rift between What Happened to Baby Jane co-stars, Bette Davis and Joan Crawford, shines a light on the frenemies in the old Hollywood film industry. Made by the producers of the critically acclaimed American Horror Story and Assassination: Gianni Versace: Ryan Murphy’s vivid imagery and picturesque shots, ensure this series is a must watch.

saw Joan Crawford pitching an adaption of the horror novel, What ever happened to baby Jane? to director Robert Aldrich and actress Bette Davis. As the filming begins, cracks are revealed, with Crawford’s narcissism and Davis’ bold opinions quickly causing tension on set between the actresses. As the series continues to follow Crawford and Davis’ rivalry, a snubbed Oscar win sees tensions boil over. The notorious bitter vendetta continued for many years after filming concluded, with the Associated Press phoning Bette Davis in the early seventies, shortly after Crawford’s death to ask for her reaction. Davis merely responded, “You should never say bad things about the dead, only good. Joan Crawford is dead. Good.”

Feud isn’t just about the Hollywood icons portrayed. Feud has an impressive all-star, Oscar winning cast including; Jessica Lange (King Kong, American Horror Story), Susan Sarandon (Thelma and Louise), Catherine Zeta Jones, Kathy Bates, Stanley Tucci and Alfred Molina. The script originally set out to be a film, titled Best Actress, by writers Michael Zam & Jaffe Cohen, but transformed into an eight-part drama series. Feud not only portrays the bitter rivalry between two Golden Age icons, but also exposes the misogyny, sexism and ageism in Hollywood.

Bette and Joan received raving reviews, with Melanie McFarland of Salon describing the writing as “creatively wicked” and “outrageously fantastic”, praising co-stars Lange and Sarandon for their outstanding performances and for “tempering their decadent rages and vengeful spats with a gutting sense of loneliness that tempers its lightness in solemnity.”

The series debuted on FX last year. The inaugural episode drew an astonishing 2.26 million viewers, making it the most watched program on FX that week. With her acting career diminishing, the pilot episode

Watch online now.



Spotlight’s top 5 vintage markets to visit in london Spotlight reveals the best vintage markets to visit in London. From vintage fashion, to vinyl and accessories - these vintage markets have it all

1. Brick Lane UpMarket Situated in the heart of East London, Brick Lane is renowned for its eclectic flair and vintage fashion. The vintage market is set in the Old Truman Brewery, which was once considered one of London’s biggest breweries. UpMarket is open Thursday to Sunday, with free entry ensuring a constant influx of tourists, fashion lovers and vintage fans. The network of stalls sell a variety of pre loved and vintage goods from the 1920s, covering every decade through to the 1990s. Pop down to Brick Lane and find glamourous fur coats, vintage clothing, retro sunglasses, classic vinyl and decorative accessories.

fair. Entry to the fair costs a mere £4 and is currently held in Kensington Town Hall, due to ongoing refurbishments at Chelsea Old Town Hall. Time Out London labelled the vintage fair, “a staple on the vintage scene”. With over 60 exhibitors at each event selling antique items and vintage clothing, it is a vintage lover’s dream. 4. Hammersmith Town Hall Taking place every 4/5 weeks, Hammersmith Town Hall plays host to the acclaimed vintage fair. Established in 1999, Hammersmith’s vintage fair has become a Mecca for fashion designers, costumiers, models, trend spotters, vintage lover’s and fashion students. At £5 admission fee, the vintage fair attracts many people at the fore-front of fashion; whether big or small budgets. This fair sells an array of items including: handbags, lace, embroidery, shoes, hats, gowns, beaded dress, gloves, trimmings, fashion magazines, fur and more. With clothes spanning from 1800 to the 1980s, the cost is suprisngly more competitively priced than some of the more trendier shops. The founders of Hammersmith vintage fair also host some antique textiles, vintage costumes, tribal art and antiques fair.

2. Clerkenwell Vintage Fashion Fair Hailed as ‘the most exquisite vintage fashion fair” by Vogue International. Clerkenwell has amassed a huge following due to its raving reviews and five star ratings. The vintage fair was born in 2009, to help recession which hit traders, by launching a series of ‘quality’ vintage fashion, accessory & textile events just 5 minutes from Angel. In the 9 years Clerkenwell vintage fair has been established, it has gone from strength to strength and gained a highly prestigious reputation with the international fashion scene to include: designers, stylists, fashion editors, celebrities & models alike. Clerkenwell’s Summer Fair is set to take place on 3rd June, with a £5 entry fee. If you’re a lover of 1950s clothing and chic 1930s beach pyjamas, this fair is a must visit.

5. East End Vintage Clothing Located in Mile End, East End Vintage Clothing is a fashion lovers dream for affordable vintage items. On weekends, the price of the second hands good is reduced to £10/£20 for an entire small or large bag. Originally run as a stall at Camden and Portobello Market, before opening its own warehouse. East End Vintage sells a diverse range of fashionable European and American vintage clothing from 1920s to 1990s, with some individual items selling for as little as £1.

3. Frock Me Fair Contributing Vogue editor, Lynne Yeager, described the vintage fashion fair as “breath taking in its scope and variety”. Established in 1997 by Mathew Adams, the Frock Me Fair is often described as London’s original vintage fashion

Photography and text by Gaby Smith



Spotlight’s top 5 cinemas to visit in london

Regent Street cinema. Image courtesy of Westminster University

Regent Street Cinema, Marylebone

to be one of Brixton’s most popular spots. Renovation in 2009 restored the building to its original décor, whilst adding an upstairs venue which plays host to several comedy nights and live music. Only a short walk from the tube station, Ritzy Cinema remains one of South London’s oldest picturehouses. Tickets £13.70.

Regarded as the ‘birthplace of British cinema’, Regent Street Cinema opened back in 1948, and featured the first motion picture film shown in the UK. In 2015, the University of Westminster successfully completed a campaign to restore and reopen the historic cinema. The auditorium is now an open space for screenings, lectures, events and workshops. Regent Street Cinema continues to screen a variety of classic movies, with a mix of blockbusters, international films and arty independent films. The cosy cinema contains only 187 seats, so ensure you book in advance. Tickets £12, based on a standard adult ticket.

Rio Cinema, Dalston

Rio Cinema located in the trendy East End, stands out for its original art deco décor and interior. Situated on Kingsland High Street, the cinema gained notoriety, being named one of London’s best cinemas by The Daily Telegraph, and best cinema bars by The Evening Standard. After successfully raising £125,000 in 2017 to restore the cinemas original art deco exterior and build a new cinema screen, which opened on December 28 2017, Rio Cinema usually screens one mainstream film a week, in addition to several arthouse and independent films. The cinema also works with several partners, such as the East End Film Festival, The London Feminist Film Festival and the Fringe! Gay Film Festival. Tickets £11.50.

Phoenix Cinema, East Finchley

With its unmissible sign, Phoenix Cinema located in East Finchley, is an independent and single screen community cinema. Previously known as, East Finchley Picturedrome, the cinema was built in 1910 and opened two years later. Phoenix Cinema holds the title of the oldest, continuously opened cinema in London. Currently run by a charitable trust, Phoenix Cinema still retains some of its history and charm, with the unusual vaulted ceiling dating back to its original infrastructure. This cinema also screens a variety of mainstream and independent films, with up-and-coming actors and directors often previewing their work. Tickets £8.50.

Everyman Cinema, Hampstead

A chain of boutique cinemas, the Everyman Hampstead Cinema has two screens with luxury arm chairs and sofas, ensuring you can watch your chosen films whilst enjoying the comfort and cosiness of home. You can also enjoy the private screening room, which seats just under 20 people for that special occasion. Everyman Cinema screens a variety of mainstream, blockbusters and niche independent or international art films, to guarantee there is a film for everyman. Tickets 16.90.

Ritzy Cinema, Brixton

Fighting years of threats of demolishment, the Ritzy Cinema in Brixton has had substantial restoration work to become of one the UKs largest independent specialist cinemas. Boasting five screens, two bars and a large café, Ritzy Cinema is a must visit. The grade ll listed building, proves



spotlight’s must see

Image courtesy of The Guardian. Picture by Tristram Kenton

brief encounter “A class return to romance” The Daily Telegraph “Exquisite” The New York Times “Vibrantly theatrical and totally absorbing” The New York Observer

Noel Coward’s Brief Encounter is regarded as one of the most haunting and moving love stories ever. Kneehigh’s award-winning theatre production, adapted and directed by Emma Rice, received rave reviews after touring globally Kneehigh are a UK based theatre company, recognised both nationally and globally. The theatre company was founded over 30 years ago, yet continue to engage and entertain audiences with their characteristic wit and musicality. Kneehigh are currently running their adaptation of the classic 1945 Hollywood film, Brief Encounter.

four Olivier nominations, two Tony nominations and the design won an Evening Standard award and a Critics Circle award, before being performed around the world. The renowned production has now returned to the Empire for a six-month run, and Spotlight suggests snapping up tickets fast.

Brief Encounter, is a romantic drama directed by David Lean about British suburban life prior to World War 2. The narrative centres around two strangers meeting in a railway station, exposing a women’s temptations to cheat on her husband.

Not only does Brief Encounter tell a haunting love story, the production is recognised for its pioneering projection, which places Kneehigh’s production somewhere between theatre and cinema. The production’s live action blends seamlessly with the archive footage shown on a big screen behind the cast, with animations bleeding into reality exquisitely.

Kneehigh’s production has recently returned to a London cinema, with integrated archive footage and live action creating an immersive and enchanting production. The production was initially shown in the converted Empire Cinema on London’s Haymarket in 2008, to which it received

Brief Encounter is certainly a must see and is currently on at London’s Haymarket, tickets available from £51.



spotlight’s must read

Image courtesy of

The fashion chronicles: the style stories of history’s best dressed British historian and author, Amber Butchart, specialises on the historical intersections between dress, politics and culture. Butchart currently has four books published, focusing on fashion illustration, fashion in film and the world of style. In addition to writing, Butchart is a researcher and lecturer at London College of Fashion, whilst finding time to present the BBC Four documentary, A Stitch in Time. The Fashion Chronicles is an ode to style stories throughout history; a true exploration of fascinating stories told through history’s fashion pioneers. Butchart devours the world of fashion, starting with Eve’s fig leaf, Joan of Arc, Louis XIV through to modern figures such as Amelia. With some still influencing the fashion and trends of today, others have used fashion to change the world. Unveiling the secrets and stories behind some of history’s most iconic style icons, The Fashion Chron-

icles is certainly a must read for any fashion lover.

Image courtesy of

Pick up your copy on October 2nd, £20.


“I always respected Audrey’s taste. She was not like other movie stars in that she liked simplicity.” -Hubert de Givenchy

Illustration by Zuzzanna Calkosz



long live Hubert de Givenchy 1908-1989 The late Hubert de Givenchy sadly passed in March, aged 91. Spotlight looks back at the renowned designer’s life; celebrating his achievements and legacy left behind in the fashion industry. With clientele including Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy and Grace Kelly; Givenchy’s understated style will long be remembered The great Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy, was a French designer whom founded the house of Givenchy in 1952. The Paris couturier sold his couture house in 1989, to the multinational luxury goods conglomerate, LVMH.

The 300 drawings in both colour and monotone, were recreations of the original sketches of models for his collections. The illustrations echoed Givenchy’s understated yet elegant style, which fashion experts state, is responsible for keeping the standards of Parisian haute couture alive. In an interview with the Telegraph discussing his sketchbook, Givenchy informed a reporter of his inspiration behind dedicating the book to Hepburn, “After I done a few sketches, I am thinking why don’t I dedicate all these drawings to Audrey? Everyone loves her. She is not only a legend but an extraordinary human being.”

During his designing years, Givenchy dressed several of the most glamorous and sought after women, including Grace Kelly and Jackie Kennedy. However, his most beloved client, remained Audrey Hepburn. Givenchy famously won an Oscar for his designs for Hepburn; with the iconic little black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s being considered one of the most indelible cinematic moments of the 20th century. The iconic scene featured Hepburn, as Holly Golightly, approaching the Fifth Avenue jeweller wearing oversized dark sunglasses, dripping in pearls, wearing long black evening gloves and the black Givenchy dress. Givenchy is reported to have said of the design, “the little black dress is the hardest thing to realise, because you must keep it simple.”

Following his sad passing, several authoritative figures paid tribute to the renowned designer. Emmanuel Macron, the current French President, hailed the designer as “a master of elegance, creation and inventiveness”, adding “It is through such artists that France shines in the world and there is no doubt that the legacy of Hubert de Givenchy will endure.” Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive of LVMH also paid tribute to Givenchy, “I am deeply saddened by the death of Hubert de Givenchy. He was among those designers who placed Paris firmly at the heart of the fashion world post 1950, while creating a unique personality for his own fashion label.”

Not only was Audrey Hepburn a client of Givenchy’s but they formed a close bond and he went on to design several other costumes for her films: Funny Face, Love in the Afternoon, Paris When It Sizzles, How to Steal a Million, Charade and Love Among Thieves. Following Audrey’s passing in 1993 due to colon cancer, the legendary couturier came out of retirement to dedicate his sketch book to the late actress. The sketchbook entitled, To Audrey with Love, encompassed over 300 sketches of designs for clothes he created for Hepburn on and off screen; as well as other luminaries on his client list including, Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and the Duchess of Windsor.

Hubert de Givenchy, a classist at heart, will be remembered for his understated style which represented a golden age of elegance, as well as his own immensely elegant and tailored appearance. The celebrated couturier was named International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1970, no doubt affirming his tailored, chic, style and ensuring his legacy remain a staple within the fashion industry.



spotlights top SS18 picks With summer just around the corner, Spotlight reviews four of the most sought after SS18 catwalks to ensure you have all the fashion inspiration you need to look chic this summer. From Rodarte’s French garden, to Molly Goddard’s vampy party girls, Spotlight’s top picks are a fashion lover’s must read Text by Gaby Smith

Emilia Wickstead SS18. Photography by Yannis Viamos courtesy of

Emilia Wickstead Show notes for Emilia Wickstead’s spring/summer 18 collection cited the Harlem Renaissance as inspiration for her colour palette and silhouettes. The intellectual, social and artistic explosion in Harlem, New York, spanning the 1920s, saw a difference in Emilia Wickstead’s collection. By exploring the clothing worn to infamous jazz clubs and hotspots, she presented a slightly racier collection and a more risqué side to her signature high button aesthetic.

Opening the show, was a more demure look with a white high necked blouse and matching wide leg trousers. Wickstead’s signature neatly tailored and streamlined silhouettes shone through in her collection, yet the black lace-up detailing on the sleeves added to a more modern look. In contrast to her first look, translucent and sheer fabrics displayed a racier and sexier tone to her collection. The grey sheer oversized shirt, paired with blue acid wash mom jeans and white Mary Jane style T-bar heels showed a simple and understated look, can remain chic and sexy.


fashion With translucent looks recognised as a top trend for SS18, Wickstead presented variations with dresses, shirts and knee length coats. Despite her feminine and ladylike aesthetic remaining prominent in her designs, the sheer fabrics and exposed skin introduced something she has not displayed before. The sheer knee length coat, certainly alluded to the #freethenipple movement; emphasising the female body form and femininity. The colour palette for the collection remained subtle, monochromatic looks and shades of pastels, in addition to the odd pop of colour with a bold yellow and scarlet red.

quin gowns emitted and reflected light as the models strut down the runway, paired with matching shoes and bag, the bronze looks were undeniably modern yet feminine. Freelance fashion stylist, Daisy Hopper, reveals her opinion on Wickstead’s SS18 collection, commenting on the unlikely inspiration and love of sheer fabrics, “although I don’t see the Harlem Renaissance and Jazz inspiration behind the collection, I think Emilia Wickstead’s SS18 collection is a true reflection of her talent. From tailoring skills to evolving her signature style, the sheer, racier collection was a true winner for me.”

Spotlight’s particular favourite was the duck egg blue, ankle grazing dress with an elegant drape across the shoulders, ensuring a balance between demure yet feminine and sexy. The collection also featured striped, vintage florals, again a hot trend for SS18. Paired with her signature high neck aesthetic, the vintage florals were on a sheer fabric to create a more contemporary look with English garden vibes. In addition to the vintage florals, bows were also prevalent on the runway. Floor sweeping coat dresses featured Marie Antoinette style bow detailing, exuding femininity and the signature Emilia Wickstead styling.

Overall Emilia Wickstead presented a more modern and wearable collection, with a balance of demure yet sexy. The signature modest tailoring mixed with plunging necklines, keyhole cut outs and exposed skin revealed a racier side to the renowned designer. The use of wide sunhats tied beneath the chin and blousy sleeves added a touch of Wickstead’s aesthetic. Despite citing the Harlem Renaissance as inspiration behind her collection, a casting of more diverse models would have worked in her favour, translating the cultural inspiration behind the collection and ensuring the show remained more memorable.

To close the show, shimmering bronze jumpsuits and dresses were without a doubt show-stopping. The se-

Emilia Wickstead SS18. Image courtesy of Emilia Wickstead



Alberta Ferretti SS18. Photohraphy by Ferretti Kim Weston courtesy of

Alberta Ferretti for those late summer nights. Beachy cover ups and jumpsuits in shades on nudes and bronze presented a simple yet stylish collection perfect for holidaying in the summer.

Backstage at Alberta Ferretti’s spring/summer 18 show, the designer herself was reported to have said “I don’t want too many things,” whilst signalling ruffles and frills with hand movements. “Every once in a while we have to evolve and initiate changes. But obviously it’s still Alberta Ferretti,” she said backstage to press reporters, suggesting a spring reinvention.

Adding a pop of colour to the collection, Ferretti followed in suit by featuring shades of pastels, a top trend for SS18. Luminous silk lamé trousers and button down shirts in shimmering metallic pastel shades were subtle and causal yet eye-catching looks, with the shirts tied at the navel reflecting an elusive nineties inspiration.

The opening of the collection bears no resemblance to Alberta Ferretti at all. Taming her ethereal signatures to more minimalist silhouettes; the Alberta Ferretti collection opened with a selection of chic bathing suits. Models made their way down the runway in black one-pieces, studded jelly sandals and nylon windbreakers, with few accessories to create a chic summer look.

Bright coral garments also stood out against the mundane colour scheme, with a Grecian style dress reminding us of Alberta Ferretti’s signature silhouettes. The evening wear was no doubt the highlight of the show; displaying various surface embellishments which created movement as the models sashayed down the runway. Sheer fabrics, appliqué, feathers and drapes showed a contrast to the minimalist bathing suits, displaying Alberta Ferretti’s skill and talent.

The looks were simple and understated, yet the oversized floppy hats and dark shades gave the effortless summer athleisure looks an, Alberta-style touch. The bathing suits showed variety in silhouettes, with plunging necklines, halter necks and tie up detailing. The streamlined silhouettes continued with an array of halter neck dresses and plunge front jumpsuits, channelling a day-to-night transition.

The diverse selection of models was praised, with the subtle colour palette complementing the range of skin tones. The hair had a slight wet-look feel, pulled back into a knotted braid and accompanied with dark smudged eyeliner and soft lips, created a high fashion, hot summer look. The collection presented more simplified and casual looks, with the odd Grecian gown highlighting Alberta Ferretti’s signature style.

In addition to Ferretti’s all black bathing suits, chiffon and sheer fabrics were also popular. Nude, sheer sequin fabric in a matching top, jacket and shorts which glistened under the lighting, created the perfect casual outfit



Rodarte SS18. Photography by Kim Weston Arnold courtesy of


Rodarte’s Paris Fashion Week debut was met with outstanding reviews and a standing ovation, another first in 12 years. Staged in a 16th century cloister of a hospital and garden of an old abbey on the West Bank in Paris, accompanied by installations of English roses, the venue looked breath-taking and organic. The Mulleavy sisters delicate Parisian collection seemed right at home at PFW.

“the delicate details from the baby’s breath entwined in the hair, to the subtle floral details on the body and nails add to the romance and daintiness of the collection.” Rodarte too displayed sheer tulle fabrics with delicate ruffles in shades of pastels, from lemon to baby pink. Floral print chiffon dresses and jumpsuits exuded romanticism and fantasy, a trait of many Rodarte collections. Several looks featured gentle embellishments, studded with pearls, ostrich feathers, caviar beads and polka dots. Several looks displayed a contrast in fabrics and materials, with a motorsport jacket and trousers

According to the sisters, their collection was in part inspired by the 1970s mystery thriller, Three Women by Robert Altman. This inspiration can be loosely translated to the chosen colour palette for the collection, a pale palette of blues, pinks and yellows contrasting several bolder tones such as a vivid magenta and scarlet red.

studded with pearls appearing in contrast to the delicate tulle. Worn with an interesting style leather shaft boots and snakeskin detailing, suggests Rodarte wanted to add a tougher edge to their romantic collection. However, gold floral shaped arm cuffs, shoulder-dusting earrings and gold belts with bows took away from the delicate and exquisite dresses.

The models wore pastel coloured romantic dresses and separates, embellished with embroidery, leather, python, ruffles and sheer fabric. The abundance of delicate baby’s breath added to the romantic, gentle aura. The floral arrangements were by Joseph Free, an LA based floral designer whom has previously collaborated with the sisters. The baby’s breath was delicately incorporated into the hair styling as well as bouquets dragged behind the model, which certainly perfected the floral collection. The make-up was kept natural and light complementing the models flawless complexion.

Kate and Laura Mulleavy certainly triumphed at their first Paris Fashion Week, with elevated beauty and romanticism forming the foundation for their collection. The motorsport looks didn’t quite suit their delicate floral surroundings, however the sisters’ ambition to translate their aesthetic into wearable, day-to-day clothing certainly paid off. The polka dot dresses and soft sheer tulle tick all the boxes for anyone wanting to stay on trend this summer.

Hair and make-up artist, Jessica Wilkin, reinforces how the delicate touches enhanced the SS18 show,



Molly Goddard SS18. Photography by Kim Weston Arnold courtesy of

Molly goddard Show notes for Molly Goddard’s SS18 collection read: “My doctor told me to watch my drinking. Now I drink in front of the mirror.” The carefree, relaxed and celebratory atmosphere shone through her collection. After triumphing the London fashion scene for three years now, Molly Goddard’s talent reaffirmed her powerful position in the fashion industry. From Central Saint Martin’s graduate, to sought after fashion designer, Molly Goddard’s collection is definitely one for an edgy girly girl.

Goddard showed versatility and creativity, featuring swingy cotton and sequin mini dresses. The collection remained whimsical and romantic, yet sexy and cool with the majority of the garments being simple and monochromatic; making the few looks of colour, pop. Smart tailored blazers in shiny, jewel toned satin really displayed Molly Goddard’s talent and skill, with the yellow blazer and sequin skirt being a Spotlight favourite. Goddard proved she doesn’t need to stick to her signature tulle dresses, as heavier cotton with smocking and ruched detailing, evidenced her excellent fabric manipulation techniques and versatility.

Edie Campbell started the party, strutting down the runway with a glass of wine in one hand and an e-cigarette in the other. Edie oozed confidence in her ankle-grazing white dress, cut slightly off-kilter line. Her party girl, carefree attitude set the tone for the show, with several models dancing and displaying playful expressive poses as they hit the runway.

Erin O’Connor closed the show with a 1940s inspired midi dress with shimmering sequin overlay, revealing a black tulle petticoat hanging beneath. The pretty tulle fabrics styled with black chunky footwear and dark make-up created the perfect balance for a girly yet tough look. In summery, Molly Goddard’s collection certainly emphasised her quirky show notes, with a joyous blend of fearlessness and vampy aesthetic.

Molly Goddard’s smocking and tulle signature style remained prevalent throughout. Styled with black chunky boots, brogues and even bare foot; the SS18 collection proved to be a cool girl’s antidote to a conventional princess dress. The pushed back permed hair ensured the focus remained on the models dark eye make-up, reinforcing the edgier touch. Ellie Morris, a make-up artist, discusses how the choice of make-up emphasised Goddard’s show notes and theme, “the bold, brash make-up definitely incorporated the party girl vibes.”


“Every girl on every page of Quality has grace, elegance, and pizazz. Now, what's wrong with bringing out a girl who has character, spirit, and intelligence?� - Dick Avery, Funny Face


Funny Face, 1957


Model: Emily Smith Photography: Gaby Smith Hair stylist: Alexyi Glamore MUA: Zainab Jiwa Wearing Primark trousers £10, Boohoo bodysuit £10, Kurt Geiger flats £89

Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1961

Wearing Boohoo bodysuit £20, Amazon gloves £4, Amazon pearls £3, Store Twenty One necklace £4


“Hand me my purse, will you darling? A girl can’t read that sort of thing... without her lipstick” - Holly Golightly, Breakfast at Tiffany’s


“Doesn't it make you nervous to be in the same room with thousands of dollars worth of diamonds, and unable to touch them?� - Frances Stevens, To Catch a Theif


To Catch a Theif, 1955 Wearing Primark midi skirt £5, ASOS bodsyuit £8, Primark black heels £14, thrift shop hat £4


Gentlemen prefer blondes, 1953


Wearing Amazon gloves £4, ASOS dress £25, Store Twenty One earrings £4

“Don't you know that a man being rich is like a girl being pretty?� - Lorelei Lee, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes


“That girl is made to destroy men � - Eric Carradine, And God Created Woman


And God created woman, 1956 Wearing Primark t-shirt £3, Missguided suede skirt £20


Affair in Trinidad 1952 Wearing Missguided dress £25, Store Twenty One earrings £4, Parimark black heels £14


“At the risk of dislocating your personality, try to remain calm� - Max Fabian, Affair in Trinidad



59 Illustrations by Zuzzanna Calkosz

feature Photographer: Gaby Smith Model: Chance Breed: French Bulldog Aged: 10 months



Animals on the big screen In Hollywood, a wise man once said do not work with animals or children. However, many of our favourite old Hollywood movies centre around a cute pooch or exotic animal

Text by Gaby Smith


Lassie, 1943. Image courtesy of Entertainment Time

Toto, 1939. Publicity photo for the film

Cat, 1961. Image courtesy of Twitter

In Hollywood there are few dogs as famous as Lassie, appearing in an astonishing 11 movies, spanning the early 1940s to 2005. The original Lassie, played by a dog named Pal, featured in seven feature films until 1951, when Pal’s descendants played the future roles and iterations of Lassie thereafter. Pal was chosen out of 1500 canine auditionees to play the starring role in the film adaptation of the book, Lassie Come Home. With a further six other feature films, Pal became a household star in his own right.

ver the years there has been much debate over the inclusion and treatment of animals in Hollywood, fighting years of animal abuse claims. Despite this, some of the most credible and iconic films to date, see an animal take centre stage. From Breakfast at Tiffany’s, to the Wizard of Oz; Hollywood’s fascination with animals started in the early 1920s but continued for decades before the development of CGI and special effects.

When looking at animals on the big screen, it is essential to acknowledge Rin Tin, the German Shepherd who went on to become one of Hollywood’s most sought-after stars in the early days of Tinseltown; starring in a credible 27 films before his death in 1932. Similarly to Pal, Rin Tin’s descendants continued his legacy appearing in numerous films throughout the 1930s with another feature film, Return of Rin Tin Tin, and a renowned TV series that ran from 1954 until 1959.

From dogs to cats, chimpanzees to dolphins; animals were the stars of the Silver Screen. With three animals earning their own spot on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, several animal ‘movie stars’ were undoubtedly Oscar worthy. Animal lover and trainer, John Peter, praises animal actors for their talent, not ignoring the controversial abuse claims, “Animals are in fact hugely talented. Trained in the correct way, they can do amazing things and they are indefinitely stars of the Golden Age.”



Photographer: Gaby Smith Model: Stanley Breed: French Bulldog/Pug cross Aged: 3


feature The inaugural Academy Awards took place in 1929, two years after Rin Tin released an astounding four films in one year. The talented canine star received the most votes for Best Actor, with 39 votes. Despite the award going to human actor, Emil Jannings for The Last Command and The Way of All Flesh. The iconic 1939 Hollywood classic, the Wizard of Oz, not only made viewers swoon over Dorothy’s ruby red slippers, but also saw viewers yearn for a courageous canine sidekick, Toto. Played by Terry, a Cairn Terrier, Toto remained one of the unsung heroes of the film. With an impressive resume of 18 films, Terry is one of the most prolific dog actors of all time. Terry was coached by renowned training legend, Carl Spitz, whose innovative training technique of silent hand movements to guide and direct dogs on set became recognised. Spitz started the Hollywood Dog Training School in 1927, which still exists today. Judy Garland’s furry co-star, earned a lucrative salary of $125 a week, which back in the Golden Age was seen as a very competitive and well-paid salary (earning more than the Munchkins). On the set of The Wizard of Oz, long before CGI, Terry the Terrier did all her own stunts including; fighting, chasing a witch, catching an apple, sitting up and speaking on demand. Terry also took an immediate liking to Judy Garland, living with the iconic actress for two weeks prior to production.

for hours at a time. The feline film star had a prolific career in both film and TV during the 1950s and 1960s, being the only cat to acquire two Patsy Awards (Picture Animal Top Star of the Year, an animal actor’s equivalent of an Oscar) for his roles in Rhubarb, 1951, and Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1961. Unlike Toto, Orangey had several stunt doubles as it is reported cats are notoriously hard to train. Animal lover, Audrey Hepburn, is reported to have voiced her distaste at the penultimate scene of Breakfast at Tiffany’s, as she described casting Cat outside into the pouring rain as one of the most distasteful things in her career. The Golden Age saw a variety of animal stars, with iconic Hollywood films often featuring a furry co-star. Despite the negative accusations, animals were often prized in the film industry, with some receiving Academy Award nominations and others earning more than human actors. There is no doubt that animals ruled the big screen in old Hollywood.

Garland bonded instantly with Terry, often trying to buy the furry co-star from Spitz. The bond between Terry and Judy Garland was clear to see, often displaying how a physical connection shows a stronger bond on screen. Videographer, Olu Renwick discusses how working with real animals often benefits the actors and their relationship conveyed, “people act better with a real animal stand in as they can look them in the eye and bounce of their reaction, especially when they have a good bond with the animal like Judy Garland and Terry did.” A Spotlight favourite, and Golden Age Classic Breakfast at Tiffany’s, saw a feline take centre stage. After years of popular talented canines, Orangey the ginger feline starred alongside Audrey Hepburn in undoubtedly one of the most iconic films of all time. Orangey is regarded for his ability to stay in position


Chance Renwick. Photography by Gaby Smith


Spotlight on Bette davis

1908-1989 Ruth Elizabeth Davis was an American actress of film, television and theatre. Regarded as one of the greatest actresses in Hollywood history. With Davis born in April 1908, Spotlight is dedicating the spring/summer issue to the Hollywood legend


Text by Gaby Smith Illustration by Zuzanna Calkosz

he no nonsense actress is considered one of American cinema’s most celebrated leading ladies, with her prolific lists of awards and achievements. Bette Davis has the fourth-most Academy Award nominations (10) in four acting categories of all time. In 1999, Davis was placed second behind Kathrine Hepburn, on the American Film Institute’s list of the greatest female starts of classic Hollywood cinema.

once admitted that her success had often been at the expense of her personal relationships. However, with more than 100 film, television and theatre roles to her credit, Davis continued acting until her death from breast cancer in 1989, aged 81. Davis was noted for her willingness to play unsympathetic, sardonic characters and was regarded for her performance in a variety of genres, emphasised by her unnerving portrayal of Baby Jane in the 1962 thriller. Despite this, Davis’ her greatest successes

Despite her cinematic legacy and achievements, her career witnessed several periods of eclipse, as Davis


feature were thought to be her roles in romantic dramas. After Davis’ appearance in the 1935 drama, Dangerous, portraying a troubled and distressed actress, she received excellent reviews. English novelist, critic and broadcaster, E.Arnot Robertson, wrote a review for Picture Post in 1935, “I think Bette Davis would probably have been burned as a witch if she had lived two or three hundred years ago. She gives the curious feeling of being charged with power which can find no ordinary outlet.”

production teams for her films, wreaked havoc in Hollywood. Bette Davis combative and confrontational personality was recently played out in the American anthology television series, Feud: Bette and Joan. Created by Ryan Murphy, Jaffe Cohen and Michael Zam, Feud presented a dramatization of actual events, focusing on the chronicles and rivalry between co-stars Bette Davis and Joan Crawford on the set of What Ever Happened to Baby Jane. It has been said that Davis and Crawford feuded for years prior to the making of the Golden Age horror. Rumours state that Bette Davis had a Coca-Cola machine installed on the set due to Joan Crawford’s affiliation with Pepsi, being the widow of Pepsi’s CEO. Davis website states Crawford then attempted to seek revenge by putting weights in her pockets when Davis had to drag Crawford across the floor during certain scenes.

Bette Davis influential presence in the film industry, is noted by her extensive list of awards, nominations and achievements. Davis was nominated for an astonishing 10 Best Actress Oscars, in which she won the Best Actress Oscar twice for Dangerous in 1935 and Jezebel in 1938. In addition to the Oscars, in 1977 Davis was the first woman to receive the American Film Institute’s Lifetime Achievement Award and was the first female president of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, setting a precedence for future female actors. Davis was also the co-founder of the Hollywood Canteen, and in 1980 was awarded the Distinguished Civilian Service Medal, the Defence Department’s highest civilian award, for founding and running the Hollywood Canteen during World War II. On April 24th 1988, Davis was again rewarded, being honoured by the Film Society of Lincoln Centre at its annual tribute, accompanying previous honourees such as Sir Laurence Olivier and Charlie Chaplin. Davis is said to have recalled, ‘An honour, I’m delighted’ at the time of the honouring.

“IF EVERYONE LIKES YOU, YOU’RE DOING YOUR JOB WRONG” - BETTE DAVIS’ AUTOBIOGRAPHY, THIS N THAT Not only is Davis considered one of the silver screen’s most successful and talented actresses, Davis iconic and notorious personality became a public persona with her distinctive mannerisms often being imitated. The trailing cigarette smoke and argumentative behaviour is often considered an imitation of the late actress. Davis is often quoted due to her forthright manner and idiosyncratic speech, highlighted in an autobiography titled This n That, which contains a collection of anecdotes and opinions on a wide range of topics.


Bette Davis presence and legacy within the film and media industry is no doubt prevalent. Her broad list of achievements, awards and recognition ensures she remain an iconic and credible star of the Golden Age. In 1993, The New York Times hailed Davis as “becoming one of the most interested of our screen actresses.” Her forthright manner and wit, guaranteed she stood out from a crowd and without doubt be remembered. Davis’ witty and sharp persona is reinforced by her tombstone reading ‘She did it the hard way.’

Despite the awards the legendary silver screen actress received, Davis was also renowned for her reputation as a perfectionist and could be seen as highly confrontational and argumentative. She is reported to have often clashed with studio executives, directors and co-stars due to her forthright manner, acentric personality and ubiquitous cigarette. Her tempestuous battles for wanting excellent scripts and the best





Domonique is wearing an authentic 1940s skirt, couture top by Veroni Deco and French Sole slippers


Spotlight meets Dominique de Merteuil Vintage fashion enthusiast and devotee, Dominique de Merteuil, discusses her love of vintage fashion and where to buy authentic vintage items


Text by Gaby Smith Photography by Gregory Michael King Vintage lovers often struggle to find authentic fashion garments and accessories that fit and are beautifully restored, without breaking the bank. Dominique offers her advice on where to shop for the best vintage outfits. “I don’t mean to sound platitudinous but shopping for vintage clothes is not an easy affair and finding that perfect 1950s Lilli Ann suit or Dorothy O’Hara dress in the right size, colour and in ‘mint’ condition can be rather challenging” Dominique says, describing her main source of vintage treasure hunting, as vintage fairs and markets.

ominique de Merteuil, is a lover of vintage and founder of the vintage inspired blog, It’s Beyond My Control. Dominique’s fashion and sense of style is inspired by vintage couture and old Hollywood films. Her vintage fashion blog with a modern twist is inspired by the 1930s, 40s and 50s. Dominique often posts glamourous photos of herself wearing vintage couture and second hand garments, all taken by her husband, beauty and fashion photographer, Gregory Michael King. Dominique’s love for vintage fashion and art, was initiated by her mum, whom she describes as “a real style icon” and recalls many trips to the ballet and opera, in addition to watching countless films from the 1930s to 1950s.

Dominique expresses her love for the online e-commerce website, Etsy, stating that many of her clothes are brought online, “Thankfully, I can always count on Etsy!” The vintage lovers catalogue, sells beautifully handmade or vintage items and supplies, in addition to unique factory-manufactured items.

Spotlight loves Dominique’s unique sense of style, with glamourous photoshoots expressing and embracing her love for vintage fashion. When discussing her iconic vintage image, Dominique stresses that this is in no way a costume for a photoshoot, but her own personal style and lifestyle that she maintains every day. “I’ve been asked few times about how many people are involved in creating my look for the shoots. Well, what you see in the pictures is my personal style, I also do my own hair and makeup which means that if I can do it (especially the vintage hairstyles) you can do it to!” she said.

For vintage fashion lovers, or just antique enthusiasts, vintage fairs are a source of authentic and affordable vintage items. Dominique shares her favourite vintage markets to visit, “I’m very fond of the vintage markets in Paris but for readers based in London I can recommend; the vintage fashion fair that takes place a few times a year in Hammersmith Town Hall, Clerkenwell Vintage Fashion Fair and the Frock Me fair. You will also find real treasures at Portobello Market on Fashion Fridays.”





Spotlight also visited several vintage markets, detailing the top five to visit for vintage fashion devotees, see page 31. Spotlight focuses on the blend of modern and vintage, with ‘vintage’ often coming in and out of fashion. Dominique details how she often creates her looks by mixing modern with authentic vintage, “80% maybe even 90% of my wardrobe consists of true vintage clothes and accessories, mainly from the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s however, I’m not a vintage purist and I not only like to mix together clothes from different eras but I also mix them with garments from contemporary designers.” Trouser suits, pencil skirts, polka dots, check prints and vintage florals in pastel shades are said to be the top trends for spring/summer 18. It is without doubt that modern designers often take inspiration from vintage fashion decades and fabrics, with the trouser suit and pencil skirt being a prominent trend in fashion between the 1940s to 1950s. With mainstream fashion spring trends set to feature vintage florals, pastel shades and traditional check prints, it is the perfect opportunity to pair your authentic vintage items with new contemporary garments to create the perfect vintage looks. Dominique de Merteuil credits her love of vintage fashion to the way in which vintage garments were made to make women look and feel beautiful, something she states contemporary designers have forgotten. Spotlight commends Dominique’s ability to create high fashion looks with authentic vintage garments, but also her blend of modern and vintage fashion. Dominique describes her blog as a means to “keep vintage fashion alive and bring back a little bit of glamour to a life”, and for vintage fashion lovers it’s definitely worth a read. Visit for more on Dominique de Metreuil



The Golden Age of Drag From Sasha Velour to Violet Chachki, Ru Paul’s drag queen contestants have catapulted to stardorm. Whilst drag culture has become hugely popular and influential, it is clear to see where their inspiration lies


Text by Gaby Smith It wasn’t until the 1980s drag became more mainstream culture, with the 1990s known as the Reign of RuPaul. RuPaul is a supermodel, singer, presenterand alll round entertainer whom is recognised for his activism and involvement within the LGBT community. After recently acquiring a coveted spot on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, RuPaul continues to popularise and promote drag culture.

oday, drag culture has become a phenomenon in popular and mainstream culture, with many queens taking inspiration from Golden Age aesthetics; big curled hair, long lashes and elegant gowns. London based Queen, Jesse, belives old Hollywood influences are without a doubt inspiring many drag looks, “I think to some degree, old Hollywood influences every queen. So many icons in one period is hard to overlook.” Despite the recent influx of drag culture, many are unaware of the development drag has undertook to become part of society today.

With drag culture now being considered a popular art form, many queens take their ‘dragspiration’ from old Hollywood glamour. RuPual’s cult TV show which has a respectable 10-year span, sees thousands of queens audition to take part in the ultimate drag queen talent contest. Not only is there a $100,000 cash prize, the chosen queens are often catapulted to stardom following their appearance on the hit show.

Dating back to the early 1870s, pantomime saw the birth of the ‘dame’, which evolved to the rise and growth of ‘drag’. Theatre and pantomime were a safe haven in which cross dressing was seen as acceptable and creative, with men often dressing as women to characterise femininity. Drag as entertainment, continued until the 1920s and 1930s, with the first gay bars and LGBT communities developing. This period was known as the ‘pansy craze’.

From club appearances, music albums, films, and even fashion week debuts, the queens are now considered celebrities of popular culture. Season winners, Sasha Velour, Jinx Monsoon and Violet Chackhi, tour globally promoting their alter egos. Despite each queen creating their own unique and iconic look, many queens are inspired by the Golden Age aesthetic.

Following years of acceptance and freedom within theatre and pantomime, American society in the 1950s and 1960s became more controlled and unaccepting. If men were seen dressed as women, or even carrying a certain amount of female clothing, they could be arrested. Strict totalitarian regimes saw drag culture become oppressed.

Christel Mett, a Berlin queen and performer believes old Hollywood influences every queen, “the hairstyles, the brow shape, even the facial expressions. It’s nothing more than good old Hollywood with a breath of fresh air.”




Photographer: Gaby Smith Queen: Jesse Hair/Make-up: Jesse

feature feature

Heddy Lamarr publicity press photo / The Hevanly Body

Image courtesy of Photograohy by Lucas Blair

A photoshoot with Sasha Velour taken by photographer, Lucas Blair (see above) bears similarities to Hollywood actress and icon Heddy Lamarr. The arched brows and long lashes are reminiscent of the Golden Age beauty trends, with Sasha’s infamous uni-brow trademark adding her own unique twist. The long gloves and flowing luscious curls add a touch of old Hollywood glamour, with the fashion queen being renowned for her show-stopping and ‘extravangaza eleganza’ looks. The season nine winner received rave reviews during her stint on the hit TV show, for her ability to blend vintage glamour with contemporary fashion. London based queen Jesse reiterates this, “Sasha’s taken old Hollywood glamour and brought it to a new dimension”.

Another queen notorious for her Golden Age inspiration is New York’s beauty queen known as ‘The Face’, Miss Fame. Miss Fame’s Instagram page is filled with stunning photoshoots and tutorials of old Hollywood inspired drag. One of her most iconic looks is inspired by infamous German actress and singer, Marlene Dietrich (see below). The sleek blonde bob, thin arched brows, slick of eyeliner and a touch of lipstick bear a striking resemblance to the Hollywood icon. Christel describes Miss Fame’s Hollywood tribute as “a piece of finest art”, with the exquisite make-up emphasising the queen’s true talent. Drag has only recently been considered an art form, with queens showing off their skills in makeup, dressmaking, singing and all round entertaining.

Image courtesy of Twitter / @Missfame


feature feature

Image courtesy of

Burlesque queen and season seven winner Violet Chachki is recognised within the drag community for her divine beauty and clinched waist. Both Violet and Dita von Tesse (see above) wear a bright red lip and bold eyeliner, reminiscent of Hollywood legend and glamour icon Marilyn Monroe. Violet Chachki’s slim physique blur the lines of the gender norm, with her feminine features exaggerated. The drag queen, singer, burlesque star and model made history being the first drag queen to land a lingerie campaign. The pin-up inspired ad for London brand, Playful Promises, saw Violet model a selection of vintage-esque bustier bras, high-waisted underwear, corsets and garter belts. The queens modelling career has gone from strength to strength, with the fashion industry taking advantage of the stars ‘uniqueness, nerve and talent’, after Violet closed Moschino’s Fall 2018 menswear and womenswear pre fall show. It is clear to see Violet Chachki’s Golden Age inspiration, with the queen becoming a star in her own right, following in the footsteps of legendary vintage-inspired dancer, Dita von Teese.

From “dusty cellars and murky clubs, to the mainstage where it belongs”, Christel highlights the evolution of drag culture, “now drag queens are slowly getting accepted and not only as cheap entertainment but also as artists, hard workers and visionaries.” The development of the once niche community is clear to see, with over 1 million viewers tuning in to see the pilot episode of Ru Paul’s Drag Race All Stars, drag culture is now a phenomenon within mainstream culture. Queens are now becoming recognised for their undeniable talent and skills, with drag finally getting the recognition it deserves and showing the public it is truly an art form.

Watch Drag Race season 10 on Netlix now. All Hail Mama Ru



75 @christel.mettwurst

Photographer: Emily Wild /@emwildphoto Queen: Christel Mett Make-up: Elzbieta Bumbul Styling: Marie Braunfel


familiar faces With vintage markets booming and antiques becoming a sought after trend, vintage photographs are fast becoming a treasured and sentimental part of history. Capturing decades of memories, fashion and life before the digital age. These monochromatic photos evoke feeling and emotion through the vivid detailing, creating a greater appreciation for life’s little details. Dig deep and send Spotlight some of your vintage photographs. For them to feature in an issue of Spotlight, send the photographs to





Vinyl revival Don’t throw away your old record players and vintage vinyl’s, make way for the vinyl revival. 2017 reported a 25 year high in vinyl sales, more and more people are ditching their iPods and smart phones, preferring to listen to music through a good old fashioned record player. Vinyl has got it’s groove back


Text by Gaby Smith Photography by Olu Renwick used interchangeably despite a few technical differ ences. The turntable is part of the record player, with its name originating from the part which turns the vinyl disc. The turntable includes the part where the stylus finds its groove on the record for a transference of sound, however the turntable cannot make any audible sound without a phono preamp and speakers.

he crackle of the needle as it finds its groove on the vinyl; record players have become a sentimental and treasured aspect of music and popular culture. The nostalgia attached to the record player has ensured its comeback over 120 years after the first ever commercial record player was released. Urban Outfitters store assistant and vintage lover, Rebecca Raymond, describes how the re-emergence of vinyl’s and records is down to the nostalgia and sentimental values attached to the record player, “I think the popularity of them has re-emerged because it gives people nostalgia.”

Record players are usually described as ‘all-in-ones’, containing the whole kit to produce and play sound. Record players contain amplification systems and speakers all within their structure. Record players were in fact realised for public consumption long before turntables, nonetheless, turntables with external receivers and speakers became more popular, especially for people djing and mixing records.

It is important to note the differences between the turntable and the record player, the terms are often


feature The history of the record player dates back to 1857, in which the earliest version of the turntable was actually a scientific instrument designed and crafted by Edouard-Léon de Martinville, known as the phonautograph. This instrument was patented in France in 1857 and is widely considered the first sound recording device, however, the phonautograph only had one caveat and could not play sound back. Instead it would inscribe airborne sound onto paper which could be studied visually.

arm, 3 adjustable speeds, dynamic full rang, built-in stereo speakers, a headphone jack and an AC power adapter. The Urban Outfitters exclusive record player comes in a variety of colours and textiles, perfect for any music lover wanting a vintage inspired antique, still with a high quality sound. Music emporium and independent record shop, Flashback Records, sell a mixture of vintage classic and modern vinyl LPs. With the vinyl revival under full swing, it is interesting to look at the sales of vintage and modern artists. Flashback Records store assistant, Richard Root, discusses the vintage/modern blend, with customers buying a diverse range of vinyl from a variety of decades. “We get a variety of people in looking for both vintage classics and more modern vinyl LPs. From Louis Armstrong and classic soul and funk, to modern hip hop icons and singers such as Kendrick Lamar, Ed Sheeran or even Amy Winehouse” said Richard, discussing the importance of a wide range of stock, “we stock a huge variety of genres and decades to ensure customers find exactly what they’re looking for.”

Following the creation of the phonautograph, the real breakthrough for record players came from German/American inventor Emile Berliner, whom created and built the gramophone which was patented in 1887. This design provided the blueprint for the modern record player today, reading the grooves of the flat disc which was easier to produce and market. Subsequently, the first commercial record player was released in 1895. As technology and knowledge became more advanced, the late 1950s saw the ability to reproduce a stereo recording onto a disc, allowing companies to mass produce records in stereo. This boosted the sales of record players, ensuring their increasing popularity through the Golden Age.

Not only are record players considered to be a vintage collectable and antique item, the whole experience of visiting a record shop becomes nostalgic and treasured. Music fanatic and regular record store visitor, Alice Baker, explains the experience behind visiting a record shop to streaming music, “I love going to a record store and just flicking through all of the different genres and categories. Often finding some treasured records I’d never heard of before but now are some of my favourites”.

123 years after the release of the first ever sound recording device, many music fans are continuing to use record players and vinyl despite the influx of streaming and portable devices. Many believed the introduction of the CD would be the downfall and demise of the record player, though recent years have seen a 25 year high in vinyl sales. American multinational and lifestyle store, Urban Outfitters, sell a variety of modern record players with vintage and contemporary records. With consumers still yearning for the classic record player, but wanting a more accessible and quality sound, modern record players have proved popular. Rough Trade store manager, Sam Jones, describes the newer record players as hugely popular, “I would say they are much better quality generally and obviously easier to find in useable condition and therefore more popular.”

With several CD and DVD stores being forced into liquidation, record shops have surprisingly remained a constant fixture in the music industry. Rough Trade’s Sam Jones, discusses the ‘vinyl revival’ which has seen a steady rise in the sale of records and vinyl, “it actually started years ago so certainly has already passed the fad stage in my opinion. Vinyl sales are still growing and have done very strongly for over five years now. Vinyl is, without doubt, the most popular physical music format right now.”

Urban Outfitters best-selling Crosley record player contains several modern features to ensure a high quality, immersive experience. Equipped with Bluetooth technology for streaming music wirelessly, belt-driven turntable mechanism, manual return tone

Nielsen’s Year-End Report released on January 9th 2017, revealed 2-2016 vinyl LP sales reached 13 million, an all-time high since records began in 1991. Music Watch disclosed a comprehensive overview of


feature how Americans consume music, stating half of record vinyl buyers are under the age of 25. The resurgence of popularity is partly down to millennials buying records and wanting to escape back in time. Rebecca reinforces the nostalgia devoted to buying records and vinyl, “In the age that we live in, we can get everything at the click of a finger, streamed through our devices and every song ever made is right there on your screen. So it’s nice to have a hard copy, something physical of the music that you can touch. Vinyl’s are a part of the whole musical experience. We live in this virtual reality and digital age where we can source everything online, which is great and has its perks but people are longing to go back in time. To a simpler time.” It is unclear what the future will hold for the treasured record player, but no doubt they will remain a staple within the consumer music industry.




Spotlight on

Funny Face Regarded as one of Audrey Hepburn’s most stylish film moments. 61 years since the American musical was released. Funny Face, inspired by people at the forefront of the fashion industry, paying homage to Dianna Vreeland and Carmel Snow. A film in love with fashion. Think Pink! Text by Gaby Smith

Released in April 1957, Spotlight pays homage to the ro-

the fashion and modelling industry as nonsense, “it is chichi, and an unrealistic approach to self-impressions as well as economics”, before embarking on an incredible modelling career, becoming the cover star for the magazine in Paris.

mantic musical classic Funny Face. Helmed for its ode to the fashion industry, starring the legendary Audrey Hepburn, over 60 years on Funny Face remains a cult classic. Paramount’s American musical romcom directed by Stanley Donen and written by Leonard Gershe, featured assorted songs by George and Ira Gershwin. Despite have the same title as the 1927 Broadway musical Funny Face by the Gershwin brothers and featuring Fred Astaire, the plot is entirely different with only four songs from the state musical included. The film plot was instead adapted from another Broadway musical, Wedding Bells by Leonard Gershe.

The inspiration behind the characters for the film, came from real like people at the forefront of the fashion industry. Fred Astaire’s character is based on renowned photographer, Richard Avedon. Avedon was actually hired as the movie’s visual consultant, with his photographs featuring in the opening segment of the film and through the scenes in Paris. An iconic photograph by Richard Avedon, is an extreme close up shot of Hepburn focusing on her delicate facial features. The ditzy model featured at the beginning of the movie, before the discovery of Jo Stocken, was played by Dovima who often worked with Aveon and was a one of the top fashion models of the day.

Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios originally bought the rights to the film, as a possible vehicle to acclaimed actors Fred Astaire and Audrey Hepburn. However, Audrey Hepburn was under a strict contract solely with Paramount. MGM eventually sold the film over to Paramount, with Hepburn insisting on Fred Astaire as her co-star. Industry insiders have long joked that Funny Face was the only MGM musical ever made at Paramount, with a host of producers, orchestrators and experts being borrowed from MGM. Vocal coach and choral arranger, Kay ThompsonW worked for MGM usually in the background but instead took centre stage landing the film’s most prominent supporting role as the fashion editor of the magazine.

Another famous model who influenced the film, was Suzy Parker who was said to have inspired Hepburn’s character, with Parker making several fashionable appearances during the opening Think Pink scene. Kay Thompson’s character, fashion editor Maggie Prescott, was inspired by real-life figures from the fashion world. It has long been reported that Vogue editor, Diana Vreeland and Harper’s Baazar editor, Carmel Snow served as inspiration to the creation of Maggie Prescott’s character. Funny Face saw Hepburn take centre stage, singing all the musical numbers herself. Unlike her later film, My Fair Lady, Hepburn displayed her talent in her solo ‘How Long Has This Been Going On’, her duet with Fred Astaire ‘S Wonderful’, her duet with Kay Thompson ‘On How to Be Lovely’, and an ensemble performance of ‘Bonjour Paris’.

The plot for Funny Face sees Maggie Prescott played by Kay Thompson, a fashion magazine publisher and editor for Quality magazine, looking for the next big fashion trend. Amongst a photoshoot set in a bookshop, she comes across Jo Stocken played by Audrey Hepburn, a timid and shy literature fanatic. Hepburn’s character famously described



Image courtesy of

Not only were Hepburn’s exceptional singing skills exhibited, Hepburn’s dance background was also put to good use with the iconic Bohemian dance scene in a French nightclub.

other obligations but offered Hepburn a selection of garments in which she chose the memorable white strapless gown with black embroidery and double skirt. Edith Heath went on to receive an Oscar for her costumes for Sabrina and famously left Givenchy out of her acceptance speech. Following his Oscar snub, Hepburn ensured Givenchy would be fully credited for his work on Funny Face.

Funny Face received numerous awards and nominations, with The National Board of Review giving the film Special Citation award for the photographic innovations. The list of other nominations includes; Leonard Gershe nominated for Best Written American Musical, Stanley Donan nominated by the Directors Guild of America for Outstanding Directional Achievement in Motion Pictures and for a Golden Palm at 1957 Cannes Film Festival. With a further four Oscar nominations such as; Leonard Gershe for Best Writing, Story and Screenplay Directly for the Screen, Edith Head and Hubert de Givenchy for Best Costume Design, Ray June for Best Cinematography and Perira, Davis, Comer and Moyer for Best Art Direction Set Decoration.

“HIS ARE THE ONLY CLOTHES IN WHICH I AM MYSELF” - AUDREY HEPBURN Funny Face is often noted for its fashion flair, with Givenchy’s designs given a starring role. Hepburn models the beautiful outfits, running down the steps of the Louvre with her red chiffon scarf blowing, fishing in Seine wearing a tailored cropped suit and straw hat and strutting through the Jardin des Tuileries in a cap sleeve, black dress. The most infamous costume worn by Hepburn in Funny Face is without a doubt the Givenchy bridal gown, worn in the closing segment of the film highlighting its romantic genre.

Despite the extensive list of awards and nominations, on initial release Funny Face was considered a box office disappointment, failing to break even. It wasn’t until 1964, when Hepburn’s My Fair Lady was released with excellent reviews and huge box office grosses, that Paramount theatrically reissued Funny Face that it drew substantial crowds and finally made a profit.

Funny Face remains a visually opulent classic and sumptuous product of the Golden Age of cinema. The aesthetically immaculate and vivid imagery has ensured the 1957 musical has remained a cult classic 61 years later. Hepburn’s charismatic performance and brilliant musical debut has seen Funny Face become one of her most memorable performances. The movie wholly presents the myth of Paris, with its reputation for romance and fashion, through beautiful picturesque cinematograph and an adoration of fashion.

When reminiscing about the 1957 musical, it is important to acknowledge the films adoration of fashion. Most of the consumes were designed by the fabulous Edith Heath, however Funny Face’s collection of show-stopping custom-designed gowns were by Hubert de Givenchy. Hepburn first approached Givenchy to design her costumes for the film Sabrina, unfortunately he was unable to commit due to


Model: Emily Smith Photography: Gaby Smith Hair stylist: Alexyi Glamore MUA: Zainab Jiwa Wearing thrift shop vintage 1960s faux fur coat £25, Primark stripe dress £5, Primark faux fur heels £14


Wearing Jones&Jones 50s style dress, Topshop £50



Wearing thrift shop vintage playsuit ÂŁ5, Independent store pink sunglasses ÂŁ5


Wearing Topshop heart dress £25, Primark faux fur heels £14

Spotlight magazine  

A contemporary fashion and lifestyle magazine inspired by old Hollywood glamour and vintage fashion. Created for a Final Major Project for a...

Spotlight magazine  

A contemporary fashion and lifestyle magazine inspired by old Hollywood glamour and vintage fashion. Created for a Final Major Project for a...