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Sewing

Everything you need to start creating today

Master your machine Make your own clothes Perfect seams and hems All major stitches covered

11 creative

seventh edition

Digital Edition

projects


Contents Setting up

Getting started

10 Pins and needles

30 Straight stitch and zigzag stitch

11 Measuring tools

31 Backstitch

12 Cutting tools

32 Tension

13 Pressing tools

33 Tips for sewing by hand

14 Fabric defined

34 Types of stitches

16 Fabric types

36 Sewing and pressing a straight seam

17 Preparing your fabric

38 Seam finishes

18 Anatomy of a sewing machine

39 Sewing a hem

19 Machine needles

40 Curved seams

20 Threading a sewing machine

44 Sewing corners

22 Loading a bobbin

48 Types of trim

26 Sewing machine feet

50 Sewn in seam

27 Adjusting the tension and stitches

51 Edge trims 52 Piping

30

54 Using bias tape 58 Make your own bias tape

54

6 Sewing for Beginners


The next step

Creative projects

64 Gathering a ruffle

126 Peter Pan collar

66 Shirring with elastic thread

127 Lace-embellished tank

68 Making drawstring ties

128 Mannequin scissor holder

70 Sewing with elastic

131 Monogrammed key fob

74 Using a zipper foot

132 Peppermint coasters

76 Inserting a zipper

136 Elastic-waist skirt

80 Using a buttonhole foot

140 Felt coffee cozy

84 Opening a buttonhole

143 Sewing machine cover

86 Sewing a button by hand

146 Pincushion

88 Knife pleats

150 Reuseable snack bag

90 Box pleats

154 AppliquĂŠ pillow

92 Tucks 94 Darts

Reference

96 Applying appliquĂŠ

158 Sewing glossary

76

100 Types of quilting 104 Using interfacing 106 Pockets 108 Attaching a collar 110 Setting a sleeve 112 Making a waistband 114 Curved hems 116 French seams 118 Reading the envelope 120 Understanding markings 122 Laying out and cutting

154 Sewing for Beginners 7


Setting up

Loading a bobbin Now that you’ve got your upper thread all figured out, you’ll need to learn how to wind and load the bobbin. Here, I show you the basics for understanding your bobbin. Be sure to look at your machine manual for specifics – some might even have an illustrated diagram that shows you exactly what path to follow

22 Sewing for Beginners


Lots of bobbin storage options are available to keep your bobbins neat and tidy

The images in this example show both metal and plastic bobbins. Bobbins are specific to your machine model, so make sure you know which one your machine uses when looking to purchase some additional bobbins.

01 Wrap around bobbin winder

Bring the thread around the front of the bobbin winder thread guide. Wrap it around the bobbin in the direction shown for your machine (clockwise here).

If your machine doesn’t have the thread cutter on the base, you would guide the thread through the tiny hole in the top of the bobbin and hold while winding

02 Pull through

Guide the thread to the bobbin and wrap it around the bobbin two or three times in a clockwise direction. Pull the thread through the slit in the base.

03 Click into place

Now push the bobbin winder to the right. It will click neatly into place. For some machines you may have to push the lever toward the stationary bobbin winder instead. Next, follow the steps based on your type of bobbin. Sewing for Beginners 23


The next step

Gathering a ruffle From clothes to pillows, ruffles add feminine detail to any project. You can learn to create a ruffle by following these steps

Be sure you have both the top and the bottom threads pulled out with a few inches of length

01 Sew a basting stitch

Sew a basting stitch at about 1â „4 inch (.6 cm) from the edge of the fabric. Do not backstitch at either end.

02 Second row

Sew a second row of basting stitches just under the first row at a 3â „8inch (1 cm) seam allowance.

Top threads

Bobbin thread

03 Separate the threads

After the two rows of basting stitches are sewn, separate the top threads from the bobbin thread. 64 Sewing for Beginners

04 Pin and secure

Slide in a pin on the back of the fabric, and wind the bobbin threads around it to secure


Top threads

Bobbin thread

05 Separate opposite threads

At the other end of the fabric, now separate the top threads and the bobbin threads.

06 Pull the bobbin threads

07 Keep pulling

08 Hold the gathers in place

Continue pulling the bobbin threads and sliding the fabric down until you’ve created the gathered length you desire.

Gently pull the bobbin threads. This will cause the fabric to bunch up.

Set the stitch length back to the standard length and carefully sew over the bottom basting line to hold the gathers in place. Sewing for Beginners 65


The next step

Sewing a button by hand Two-hole button

Shank button

Two-hole

For a two-hole button, thread your needle with the thread folded over and tied in a knot to create a double strand. Poke up from the backside through the right hole, and poke back down through the left hole through to the backside—do this three times. Secure with a knot.

Shank

To sew a shank button, thread the needle in the same manner as for the two-hole button. Sew up from the backside through the hole and back down to the backside—do this three times. Secure with a tiny knot.

Thread shanked four-hole button

This tiny lift gives the fabric room to fit under the button while keeping the threads tight on the front side

01 Four-hole

For extra durability, sew a four-hole in the same method as for a twohole button, but sew over a toothpick to create a bit of slack on the thread. Sew the right side followed by the left side—do each side three times. Remove the toothpick. 86 Sewing for Beginners

02 Finishing a four-hole

Poke the needle back up from the bottom, but keep it under the button. Wrap the threads tightly three or four times, and poke back through to the backside. Secure with a tiny knot.


With a sewing machine

01 Place buttonfoot

Attach the button foot. Lower the feed dogs so the fabric isn’t pulled back when you begin sewing. Set the stitch to a zigzag at zero length. Place the button under the foot, and lower it to hold the button tight.

03 Adjust stitch for the holes

Continue turning the handwheel to raise the needle and lower it down into the other hole. Make adjustments in the stitch width until the needle can go into both holes without hitting the button.

02 Lower needle into hole

Turn the handwheel on the side of the machine to lower the needle into the first hole. The needle should not hit the button at all.

04 Make it secure

Sew back and forth several times to hold the button securely in place. Cut the threads, and remove the fabric from the machine. Pull the top thread through to the bottom side and tie it in a knot. Sewing for Beginners 87


The next step

Reading the envelope Reading the Envelope

Many different patterns are available with envelopes of varying layouts, but one thing they all Many are available with Here, envelopes of varying layouts, one have in different common patterns is the information on them. we provide an example tobut show you what you’ll findinformation on pattern envelopes thing they all have in common is the on them. Here, I provide an

example to show you what you’ll find on pattern envelopes.

Number of pattern pieces Number of pattern pieces

Code Description of List of pattern Suggested number for garment or item, sizes in metric fabrics suitable orderingDescription of garment giving details of List of pattern and for garment Suggested fabrics sizes imperial in metric styleofand different measurements for suitable for garment or item as well and imperial measurements or item, giving details waist, Code number for asthe not and hips in and or item as wellas style and differentviews views included infor bust, waist,bust, ordering each size included in pattern the pattern hips in each size unsuitable fabrics suitable fabrics

5678

15 PIECES

MISSES’ UNLINED JACKET, SKIRT, SHORTS, AND PANTS. Unlined, semi-fitted, V-neck jacket has short sleeves, front buttons, optional waistline darts, and optional breast pocket. Straight skirt, above mid-knee, and trousers or shorts with straight legs, have waistband, front pleats, side seam pockets, and back zip.

FABRICS: Jacket, skirt, shorts, and trousers: wool crepe, soft cottons, sheeting, linen, silk, silk types, and lightweight woollens. Skirt, shorts, and trousers also challis, jacquards, and crepe. Unsuitable for fabrics printed with obvious diagonals. Allow extra fabric in order to match plaids, stripes, or one-way design fabrics.

A

A

(6 78 58 81

Fabric needed Jacket 115 cm*/** 150 cm*/**

(6 1.70 1.30

Interfacing

1 m of 55–90 cm lightweight fusible or non-fusible

Skirt A Shorts B Pants B

B

B

115 cm*/** 150 cm*/** 115 cm*/** 150 cm*/** 115 cm*/** 150 cm* 150 cm**

Garment measurements Jacket bust Jacket waist Jacket back length Skirt A lower edge Skirt A length Shorts B leg width Shorts B side length Pants B leg width Pants B side length

Outline drawing of garment or item, including back views, showing darts Outline and zipdrawing positions of garment

or item, including back views, showing darts and zip positions

180

Part 3: More Techniques

118 Sewing for Beginners

IMPERIAL

Body measurements Bust Waist Hip

10) (12 83 87 63.5 66 86 91

8 10) 1.70 1.70 1.30 1.30

14 16) 92 97 71 76 96.5 102

(12 1.80 1.40

each view

Use nap yardages/layouts for shaded, pile, or one-way design fabrics. *with nap. ** without nap NOTIONS: Thread. Jacket: three 7/8 in (1.2 cm) buttons; 1/4 in (6 mm) shoulder pads. Skirt, trousers: pkg of 1 1/4 in (3.2 cm) waistband interfacing; 7 in (18 cm) zip; and one hook and eye closure.

METRIC 8 80 61 84

Notions required for each Notionsview required for

(18 20 102 107 81 86 107 112

14 16) 1.80 2.10 1.70 1.70

(18 2.20 1.70

22) 112 cm 94 cm 117 cm

20 2.20 1.80

22) 2.20 m 1.80 m

Body measurements Bust Waist Hip

(6 301 ⁄2 23 321 ⁄2

8 311 ⁄2 24 331 ⁄2

Fabric needed Jacket 45 in*/** 60 in*/**

(6 17 ⁄8 13 ⁄8

8 10) 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8

Interfacing

1.6 1.2 1.6 1.2 2.4 2 1.6

1.6 1.2 1.6 1.2 2.4 2 1.6

1.6 1.3 1.6 1.3 2.4 2 1.8

1.6 1.3 1.6 1.3 2.4 2 2

1.9 1.3 1.9 1.3 2.4 2.1 2

1.9 1.3 1.9 1.3 2.4 2.1 2.1

1.9 1.4 1.9 1.4 2.4 2.2 2.2

1.9 1.4 1.9 1.4 2.7 2.3 2.3

2 1.5 2 1.5 2.7 2.3 2.3

m m m m m m m

(6 92 81 73 99 61 71 49.5 53.5 103

8 94.5 83 73.5 101 61 73.5 50 53.5 103

10) 97 86 74 104 61 76 51 56 103

(12 101 89.5 75 106 63 81 51.5 56 103

14 106 94.5 75.5 112 63 86.5 52 58.5 103

16) 111 100 76 117 63 94 52.5 58.5 103

(18 116 105 77 122 65 99 53.5 61 103

20 121 110 77.5 127 65 104 54 61 103

22) 126 116 78 132 65 109 54.5 63.5 103

cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm

Garment measurements box gives actual size of finished garment

Garment measurements box gives actual size of finished garment

Skirt A Shorts B Pants B

10) 321 ⁄2 25 341 ⁄2

(12 34 261 ⁄2 36

14 36 28 38

16) 38 30 40

(18 40 32 42

20 42 34 44

22) 44 in 37 in 46 in

(12 17 ⁄8 11 ⁄2

14 2 17 ⁄8

16) 23 ⁄8 17 ⁄8

(18 23 ⁄8 17 ⁄8

20 23 ⁄8 17 ⁄8

22) 23 ⁄8 yd 2 yd

11 ⁄8 yd of 22–36 in lightweight fusible or non-fusible 45 in*/** 60 in*/** 45 in*/** 60 in*/** 45 in*/** 60 in* 60 in **

Garment measurements Jacket bust Jacket waist Jacket back length Skirt A lower edge Skirt A length Shorts B leg width Shorts B side length Pants B leg width Pants B side length

13 ⁄4 11 ⁄4 13 ⁄4 11 ⁄4 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 13 ⁄4

17 ⁄8 11 ⁄4 13 ⁄4 11 ⁄4 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 13 ⁄4

17 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄4 13 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 17 ⁄8

(6 361 ⁄4 313 ⁄4 283 ⁄4 39 24 28 191 ⁄2 21 401 ⁄2

8 10) 371 ⁄4 381 ⁄4 323 ⁄4 333 ⁄4 29 291 ⁄4 40 41 24 24 29 30 193 ⁄4 20 21 22 401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2

17 ⁄8 13 ⁄8 13 ⁄4 13 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 21 ⁄8

2 13 ⁄8 2 13 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄4 21 ⁄8

2 13 ⁄8 2 13 ⁄8 25 ⁄8 21 ⁄4 21 ⁄4

2 11 ⁄2 2 11 ⁄2 25 ⁄8 23 ⁄8 23⁄8

2 11 ⁄2 2 11 ⁄2 27 ⁄8 21 ⁄2 21 ⁄2

21 ⁄8 15 ⁄8 21 ⁄8 15 ⁄8 27 ⁄8 21 ⁄2 21 ⁄2

(12 393 ⁄4 351 ⁄4 291 ⁄2 42 243 ⁄4 32 201 ⁄4 22 401 ⁄2

14 413 ⁄4 371 ⁄4 293 ⁄4 44 243 ⁄4 34 201 ⁄2 23 401 ⁄2

16) 433 ⁄4 391 ⁄4 30 46 243 ⁄4 37 203 ⁄4 23 401 ⁄2

(18 451 ⁄4 411 ⁄4 301 ⁄4 48 251 ⁄2 39 21 24 401 ⁄2

20 473 ⁄4 431 ⁄4 301 ⁄2 50 251 ⁄2 41 211 ⁄4 24 401 ⁄2

22) 493 ⁄4 451 ⁄4 303 ⁄4 52 251 ⁄2 43 211 ⁄2 25 401 ⁄2

Chart to follow for required fabric quantity, indicating size across top, and chosen view and correct down thefor side Chartwidth to follow required fabric quantity,

indicating size across top, and chosen view and correct width down the side

yd yd yd yd yd yd yd

in in in in in in in in in


In a pattern envelope, you’ll find printed instructions and pattern pieces printed on tissue paper. The instruction sheet shows the variations that can be made; each variation is labeled with a letter and corresponds to specific pattern pieces. You will also find a cutting layout printed for each style variation. Each pattern piece will have specific markings on the pieces and images to show the right and wrong sides of the fabric.

“E-patterns usually have full-color, stepby-step pictures to walk you through”

The exciting world of e-patterns E-patterns are PDFs of patterns sold online. You simply pay for the pattern, download it, and print it out on your own printer. E-patterns usually have full-color, step-by-step pictures to walk you through your sewing project, and each picture is lined up with the text for easy readability. The pattern pieces print out on standard, 81⁄2 x 11-inch (21 x 28 cm) paper. Some e-patterns print out a full piece on one page. For example, a doll clothes pattern has small-enough pieces to fit all on one page. Larger pieces, like children- and adult-size clothing patterns, are printed out and taped together to create the full-size piece. This new style of pattern is a popular trend—just search online to see what’s available!

Sewing for Beginners 119


Creative projects

Pincushion Your pins are one of your most vital sewing tools, so it’s only logical that you have a safe and memorable place to keep them

M

aking a pincushion is a great beginning sewing project and a unique way to spruce up your sewing workspace. It helps you get rid of scrap material, and save you having to buy a one. Pick several different fabrics that coordinate well together, and you’re on your way to creating a pretty little pincushion!

Top Tip

Using vibrant patterns and designs in your pincushion will ensure that you don’t lose sight of it. However, make sure you use a sturdy fabric like cotton. As you’ll be putting pins in and out of this item, you can’t have it fraying or falling apart on you.

146 Sewing for Beginners

What you need • Small scraps cotton fabric in two colors • 11 1⁄2 x 2-inch (29.25 x 5 cm) piece cotton fabric • 50 inches (127 cm) thin ribbon or yarn • Hand-sewing needle • Scissors • Straight pins • Iron • Stuffing or batting • Traced pattern piece from this book


You can choose to use a variety of fabrics for a patchwork look for the top or bottom

Pincushion Top and Bottom – cut 8 pieces

01 Trace pattern

Trace the pattern pieces onto paper. Cut out the eight pieces for the pincushion, using the pattern.

03 Start connecting

Lay out the four top pieces and with the right sides together, line up the center seam. Pin, and straight stitch.

02 Separate into sets

Separate into two sets of four pieces for the top and bottom.

04 Repeat for the second half

Open up the seam and press it flat. Then repeat for the bottom half of the circle. Sewing for Beginners 147


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