pages of patterns
Master the basic stitches Learn to read patterns Great starter projects
Everything you need to know to get started with knitting
Contents 64 112 132 Getting started 10 Yarns
42 Simple decreases
12 Knitting needles
44 Yarn-over increases
14 Knitting kit bag
50 Textural decreases
16 Making a slip knot 17 Holding yarn & needles
52 Working on doublepointed needles
18 Casting (binding) on
56 Knitting in the round
22 The knit stitch
58 Twisted stitches
26 The purl stitch
29 Slipping stitches
64 I-cord cast (bind) off
30 Rib stitch
68 Working with two colours
32 Moss (seed) stitch
72 Colour work
34 Joining a new yarn
76 Short row shaping
38 Simple increases
78 Fixing a dropped stitch
6 Knitting for Beginners
Star rating explained All of the patterns in this book are suitable for new knitters. A higher rating simply denotes that more advanced skills within this book are required to complete the pattern.
65 I-cord baby cardigan 71 Fair Isle boot cuffs 73 People cushion cover 77 Bluebird of happiness 108 2x3 rib scarf
110 Striped beanie
82 Picking up stitches
115 Pull-on cap
25 Garter stitch scarf
28 Simple cushion
96 Add a picked up/folded hem
31 Ribbed gadget cosies
97 Picot hem
33 Textured draught excluder
98 Blocking 100 Seams & edging 104 Fastenings
36 Graduating stripes table mat 40 Simple purse 43 Bobbles tea cosy
150 Yarn labels
46 Simple lace scarf
151 Choose colours
54 Picot-topped ankle socks
152 Knitting abbreviations 153 Understanding stitch chart symbols 154 Stitch gallery 159 Glossary
57 Colourful, cosy cowl 60 Cable jumper tea cosy 63 I-cord coaster
112 Pretty bunting 116 Basketweave fingerless mitts 118 Diamond cushion cover 120 Staggered beanie 122 Parlour cat 126 Weekender hat 128 Gingerbread boy 132 Staggered eyelet cardigan 136 Tube socks 138 Fair Isle tea cosy and hot water bottle cover 142 Nordic winter hat 144 Lace tee Knitting for Beginners 7
Simple increases Not all knitting is worked straight; for garments and some other projects you will need to increase the number of stitches you work
n order to change the shape of your knitting, you’ll need to increase and decrease the number of stitches that you work. Here we will focus on increasing (inc) stitches. There are many ways to increase stitches, and some are more decorative than others. We will show you some of the most common ways to increase the number of stitches that you work. Once you become more experienced in knitting techniques, you’ll be able to understand the directions on patterns that instruct you to increase in alternative ways. Most increases add one or two stitches at a time, and usually at the end of rows. In order to keep a neat selvedge, you will usually perform an increase one stitch in. You’ll notice that the shaping will travel diagonally, and sometimes the increase stitch will form part of the design. If you have to make several If you have to work increases on multiple rows, increases across the row it’s a good idea to keep a notebook and pen to for a designated number of hand; this way you can note down how many rows, use stitch markers on increases you have worked either by tally charts your needle so that the or any other method that will help you remember. increase positions are You’ll find this particularly helpful if you have to leave easily seen. your knitting at some point.
Knit into front and back of stitch (kfb)
When you work this increase, it forms a bar effect, giving it the alternative name of bar increase
01 Knit the stitch
Knit (K) the next stitch, but don’t drop the working loop off the left-hand needle. Insert the tip of the right needle into the back of the loop on the left needle. 38 Knitting for Beginners
02 Wind the yarn
Wind the yarn around the tip of the right needle as if working a knit stitch (K), catch the yarn and pull it through the loop, dropping the stitch off the left needle.
You have now created an extra stitch. Continue to work the rest of the row as instructed in your pattern.
Purl into front and back of stitch (pfb)
Make 1 Knitwise (M1 or M1K)
01 Purl the next stitch
01 Knit to increase
Increasing on a purl row is rare, but there may be occasions when you need to do so
Purl (P) the next stitch, but don’t drop the working loop off the lefthand needle. Insert the tip of the right needle into the back of the loop on the left needle from left to right.
02 Wind the yarn
Wind the yarn around the tip of the right needle as if working a purl stitch, catch the yarn and pull it through the loop, dropping the stitch off the left needle.
You have now created an extra stitch. Continue to work the rest of the row as instructed in your pattern.
Favoured for increases in the middle of a row, as it’s almost invisible
Knit (K) to the point in the pattern that instructs you to increase (inc). Guide the tip of the left needle and insert it under the horizontal strand between the previous and next stitch.
02 Wind the yarn
Insert the tip of the right needle into the back of the raised strand, wind yarn around needle tip as if to knit (K) the stitch, and draw the yarn through.
03 Drop the loop
Drop the loop from the left needle. You have now ‘made’ another stitch. If you didn’t work into the back of the loop, you would create a hole in your work. Knitting for Beginners 39
Cable jumper tea cosy Add a little bit of rustic style to tea time with this teapot cosy, a great little project to ease you into using cable stitches. You’ll also get to practise decrease and picking up stitches
Difficulty Skills needed Decreasing Cables Pick up and knit Knitting in rows Cast (bind) off in rib Seaming
Finished measurements To fit a standard 2-pint teapot
Yarn For this pattern you will need an Aran weight yarn. In this example we have used Sirdar Hayfield Bonus Aran in Ivory Cream. You will need approximately 100m (110yd).
Tension (Gauge) 18 sts and 24 rows = 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch
Needles 5mm (US 8)
Other supplies Cable needle Stitch holder Tapestry needle
60 Knitting for Beginners
Cable jumper tea cosy Special st instructions:
Turn to page 82 to learn how to pick up stitches.
C6B: Slip the next 3 stitches onto your cable needle and hold at back of work, knit the next 3 stitches on the left-hand needle, then knit the sts from the cable needle. Cast (bind) on 60 stitches. Row 1: (K1, P1) to end of row. Rep Row 1 3 more times.
Cable pattern starts Row 1 (RS): *P3, (K6, P3) 3 times, rep from * once more. Row 2 (WS): *K3, (P6, K3) 3 times, rep from * once more.
Split for handle opening Row 3 (RS): P3, (K6, P3) 3 times, place the last 30 stitches on a stitch holder, these will be worked later. ** Row 4 (WS): K3, (P6, K3) 3 times. Row 5 (RS): P3, (C6B, P3) 3 times. Row 6 (WS): As row 4. Row 7 (RS): P3, (K6, P3) 3 times. Row 8 (WS): As row 4. Row 9 (RS): As row 7. Row 10 (WS): As row 4. Row 11 (RS): As row 7. Rep pattern from Row 4 a further 4 times. ** Cut yarn and place the 30 sts just worked on to a stitch holder. Move the stitches from the first stitch holder onto a needle with RS facing. Reattach yarn and work Row 11 above. Then work from ** to **. Cut the yarn. Place the stitches from the holder onto the needle with RS facing to join the stitches just worked, and work as follows across all 60 stitches. Row 1 (RS): *P3, (C6B, P3) 3 times, rep from * once more. Row 2 (WS): *K3, (P6, K3) 3 times, rep from * once more. Row 3 (RS): *P3, (K6, P3) 3 times, rep from * once more. Row 4 (WS): As row 2. Row 5 (RS): As row 3.
Row 6 (WS): As row 2. Row 7 (RS): As row 3. Row 8 (WS): As row 2.
Start decreases Row 1 (dec): *P1, p2tog, (C6B, P1, p2tog) 3 times, rep from * once more – 52 sts. Row 2: *K2, (P6, K2) 3 times, rep from * once more. Row 3 (dec): *P2tog, (K4, k2tog, p2tog) 3 times, rep from * once more – 38 sts. Row 4: *K1, (P5, K1) 3 times, rep from * once more. Row 5 (dec): *P1, (ssk, K1, k2tog, P1) 3 times, rep from * once more – 26 sts. Row 6: *K1, (P3, K1) 3 times, rep from * once more. Row 7 (dec): *P1, (ssk, K1, P1) 3 times, rep from * once more – 20 sts. Row 8: *K1, (P2, K1) 3 times, rep from * once more. Row 9 (dec): P1, (k2tog, P1) twice, k2tog, p2tog, (k2tog, P1) 3 times – 13 sts. Row 10 (dec): P2tog 3 times, K1, p2tog 3 times – 7 sts. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail. Thread this onto a tapestry needle and insert needle into the 7 remaining stitches. Pull stitches off the
needle and draw up tightly. Secure yarn on wrong side of cosy.
Making up With right sides together, join the sides of the rib section and the first 2 rows of the cable section at the bottom of the cosy. Join the sides along the decrease section at the top of the cosy. With the RS the of cosy facing, pick up and knit 20 stitches along one side of one opening. Work 4 rows in (K1, P1) rib. Cast (bind) off in rib. Repeat for other side of the opening. Then repeat on the second opening. Darn in all ends.
Knitting for Beginners 61
Add picked up/ folded hem Use this method to create a good thick hem in stocking (stockinette) stitch. Itâ€™s ideal for smock type sweaters and loose-fitting sleeve cuffs
01 Work the hem
Cast (bind) on the number stitches required in the pattern, using a needle one size smaller than youâ€™ll use for the main body of the garment. Work the inner hem to the length required, ending on a knit row. If using two colours, change yarn now. Knit the next row (to create a fold line), then change to larger needles and work the same number of rows as worked on the first part of the hem, ending on a purl row.
03 Fold the hem
With wrong sides (WS) together, fold the hem and hold both needles in your left hand ready to proceed. 96 Knitting for Beginners
02 Transfer stitches
With the cast (bind) on edge uppermost, right side (RS) facing and a smaller needle, pick up and knit through the centre of each cast (bind) on stitch using a length of the main body colour yarn. Transfer these stitches so that the point of the needle is facing the opposite direction.
04 Knit stitches together
Rejoin main yarn then insert right needle into the first stitch of both needles. Knit these stitches together. Continue across the row until all stitches have been worked.
05 Finish it
Block hem as per the ballbandâ€™s instructions.
Picot edge Use this as an alternative hem for socks, cardigans and more, and you’ll get garments with attractive edges
reating a picot hem is one of knitting’s little tricks. Start off by knitting a few rows, be it in rib or stocking (stockinette) stitch, then on 1 row you alternate working 2 stitches together with a yarn over. Carry on working the following rows in your original stitch, then when you fold the hem at the point of the yarn over row with wrong sides together, you’ll see you’ve created an edge of bumps.
This type of edge works best in a smooth yarn; it would be lost if worked with fluffy, mohair type haloed yarns.
Due to the fact that the edge is folded, it lends itself to be used on a stocking (stockinette) stitch border preventing the knitting from rolling. Also if you use this hem on the base of a garment, the fold lends some weight to the piece, helping it to drape nicely. Unless you have used a ribbed picot hem (such as on the sock pattern on page 54), the hem will not be elastic. So only incorporate this style into loose fitting garments.
Yarn-over lace holes
01 Start your stitches
After having first cast (bind) on an even number of stitches, work between 5 and 7 rows of stocking (stockinette) stitch. The next row will be a right side row. Work the row as follows: *k2tog, yon. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
02 Purl it
On the next row purl the stitches and the yarn over needles (yon) as you would do normally. Continue to work your pattern as stated.
Cast (bind) on with a size needle small than the pattern suggests to work up to and including the yarn over row. Then change to the recommended needle size.
03 Making up
When you are at the making up stage, fold the picot hem over at the yarn over needle (yon) row, with the wrong sides (WS) together. Pin the hem in place, ensuring that the cast (bind) on edge lines up with a row of knitting. With a tapestry needle thread with yarn, sew the cast (bind) on edge to the row of knitting by inserting the needle into a loop of the stitch, and then into the corresponding stitch on the cast (bind) on edge. Pull yarn through and continue in this way to the end of the hem.
04 Block it
Gently block, being careful to avoid the folded edge. Knitting for Beginners 97
Gingerbread boy Discover how to create these super-cute and forever fun children’s toys using this pattern
Difficulty Skills needed Increasing Decreasing Pick up and knit Knitting in rounds Seaming
Finished measurements 28cm (11in) tall 128 Knitting for Beginners
Yarn For this project you will require a DK yarn. For the example Red Heart Super Saver yarn was used in Carrot, Café and Buff. You shall need about 90m (100yd).
Tension (Gauge) 22 sts and 28 rounds = 10cm (4in) in stocking (stockinette) stitch Note that tension (gauge) is not very important with toys. Changing yarn weight or needle size
Sara Elizabeth Kellner
Sara is a knitting designer who combines her love of art, animals, and children to create charming and whimsical toy patterns. See more from Sara on her website: www.rabbitholeknits.com.
will make your finished object smaller or larger. You should work the fabric more densely than you would for a scarf or a garment, so that it holds the stuffing in.
Needles 3.5mm (US 4) double-pointed needles (DPNs)
Other supplies 4 stitch markers Tapestry needle A length of scrap yarn in a contrasting colour for use as stitch holders Stuffing Decorating notions of knitterâ€™s choice such as ric-rac, buttons, fabric squeeze paint, etc Hot glue gun/glue stick (optional)
Gingerbread boy Body and legs Cast (bind) on 30 sts onto a single needle. Distribute across 3 DPNs, placing 10 on each needle, and join for working in the round. Round 1: K5, PM, K5, PM, K10, PM, K5, PM, K5 Round 2, increase: (K to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, sm, M1) four times, K to end. 8 sts increased. Round 3: Knit all sts. Repeat rounds 2 and 3 six more times, until there are a total of 86 sts. They should be divided up as follows: separated between the markers as 12 sts, marker, 19 sts, marker, 24 sts, marker, 19 sts, marker, 12 sts. Next round, divide body and arms: K12, slip the next 19 sts onto a piece of scrap yarn, K24, slip the next 19 sts onto a piece of scrap yarn, K12. 48 sts on the needles. Following round: Knit. Next round: K11, M1, K2, M1, K22, M1, K2, M1, K11. 52 sts. Next round: Knit. Next round: K12, M1, K2, M1, K24, M1, K2, M1, K12. 56 sts. Next 8 rounds: Knit. Next round, divide for first leg: K28, slip next 28 sts onto a piece of scrap yarn, using the backwards loop method, cast (bind) on 2 stitches. 30 sts.
Next 20 rounds: Knit. Next round, first decrease: (K1, k2tog) around. 20 sts. Next round: Knit. Next round, final decrease: k2tog 10 times. 10 sts. Cut yarn, thread end onto a darning needle, and thread through remaining live sts. Pull tightly closed and secure. Return the 28 sts from scrap yarn onto the needles, distributing them as evenly
as possible. With RS facing, rejoin yarn and knit across the stitches, then using the backwards loop method, cast (bind) on 2 sts at end of last needle. Join for working in the round. Starting with 20 knit rounds, finish as for the first leg. To seam hole between the legs, turn your Gingerbread Boy inside out and hold sides of hole together. Make one seam from front to back (or back to front). Turn RS out. Knitting for Beginners 129
Nordic winter hat Keep yourself warm when the temperatures begin to drop with this fun Nordic-style hat
Difficulty Skills needed Decreasing Colourwork (stranded) Knitting in rounds Working from a chart
Finished measurements One size fits most people Circumference: 55cm (22in) Length: 34cm (13.5in)
Yarn For this pattern you will need a super chunky yarn. In this example Drops Eskimo has been used. You will need approximately 100m (108 yd). Colour 1: Red; 2 x balls Colour 2: White; 1 x ball Colour 3: Grey; 1 x ball
Tension (Gauge) 13 stitches and 16 rounds = 10cm (4in) in stocking (stockinette) stitch
Needles 8mm (US 11) 40cm (16in) circular needle 8mm (US 11) DPNs
Other supplies 1 stitch marker Tapestry needle
Nordic winter hat With contrast colour 2, cast (bind) on 72 stitches on circular needles. Join to work in the 142 Knitting for Beginners
round and take care so you don’t to twist the cast (bind)on edge as you do so. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round Work rib (K2, P2) for 4 rounds. Start working the chart, joining main colour on round 1 of chart and joining contrast colour 1 on round 8 of chart. When you have finished working the chart, knit 1 round in main colour, and continue in main colour as follows: Change to double-pointed needles when the stitches do not go easily around the needle. Rnd 1 (dec): *K7, k2tog* around – 64 sts. Rnd 2: K Rnd 3 (dec): *K2, k2tog* around – 48 sts. Rnd 4: K Rnd 5 (dec): *K1, k2tog* around – 32 sts. Cut the yarn about 40cm (16in) from the work. Pass the yarn through the live stitches on the needles. Pass the thread at the top through the hole in the middle and turn the hat inside out. Pull the loose end tight (make sure you don’t pull so hard you break it!). There will be a Nordic With a tapestry needle, secure the Knitting Conference at end and make a few stitches to cover the Nordic Heritage up the hole that is left at the top. Center in Seattle.
Did you know?
Making up Weave in loose ends. With an iron set on Wool and the steam function on, gently press the hat.
Eline is a Norwegian knitting designer who lives and works in Oslo. She has a deep affinity for traditional Scandinavian knitting, and her heritage can often be seen in her designs. She sells individual patterns online and teaches classes in knitting in several countries. You can see more from Eline at byeline.no.
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Knitting for Beginners 143
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