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IDR 48.000 - SGD $10.50 - HKD $55.00 - MYR RM26.00 - AUD $10.00 - TWD $230 - THB 190

fine restaurants and villas | bali & southeast asian style

edition 8.2, august - september ‘11 Rp. 48.000

Lombok

PARADISE, FOUND

Bali's SIX

Sexiest Villas The New Chez

Gado Gado

and premium bali dining in petitenget

Rp. 48.000

MORRISSEY

SEA

Cruising KYOTO BRIGHTON ISTANBUL HONG KONG PERFECT BURGERS IN search of the perfect bali burger

hotel naumi & the club singapore FRV Travel l 1

design food architecture fashion ar t wine restaurants


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a ugust - septe m ber 2 0 1 1

CONTENTS FEATURES 30 Gado Gado

The Seminyak Beach restaurant is back and it’s better than ever. Herman has a chat with the men in charge.

42 Fashion

Italian designer Bon Bon meets the W Retreat and Spa Bali.

90 A Glimpse of Old Japan

Hoshinoya Kyoto is a hotel where guests have a chance to revel in Japan’s natural beauty.

94 A Black Tie Balancing Act

Nick Walton sets sail for in the South China Sea on a luxury cruise.

100 The Restaurant on the Rise

Thomas Jones visits Auckland’s Iguaçu restaurant for some great Kiwi offerings.

112 Brighton Rocks

A day at the seaside in England? Sarah D on one of the world’s more incongruous beach resorts.

Cover FRV Travel

Bon Bon meets W Retreat and Spa Bali. Photo: Adam Rasyid

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26 Petitenget Now

Trauts brings us the latest word on The Street.

54 Bali’s Sexiest Villas Six of the island’s best private heavenly holiday havens in living colour.

38 A Modern Khaima Returns

Seminyak’s Khaima gets a refit and a new look.

52 WK. The No Menu Restaurant

Warung Kayu in Bali: no menu but plenty of choice.

66 Git Git Canyoning a ugust - septe m ber 2 0 1 1

CONTENTS 144

Riding the white water in the mountains of Bali.

74 A Personality, Not a Place

Ve becomes a new man at Morissey in Jakarta.

78 Pastis Revisited

Once more into the dining room with Erza.

The Peninsula Bangkok.

80 The Tale of Miyama

Erza visits Miyama in Jakarta for more from Japan.

88 Crossroads Cuisine

138

Rachel Love talks to Gene Kreyd about his life’s work.

Asia in an evening at Penang’s night food markets.

98 As Authentic and Modern as Istanbulerfront Erza finds some lush accommodation in Turkey.

104 Design Majesty

Chinatown imaginations run wild in Singapore.

106 Getting to Know You Better

Singapore’s Hotel Naumi has so many extras to love.

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All you needed to know about what Lombok can do for your holiday. 6 l FRV Travel

Events 12 Bits & Pieces 14 Overnight Tokyo 70 Overnight Singapore 72 Wine 120 Cheese 123 Recipes 124 Listings 148 Last Word 162

110 A Shopper’s Paradise

Bargains galore on your European Grand Tour.

116 Smooth as Silk

Katie Truman’s journeys through Vietnamese silk.

130 The Peak

Taking the cable car to The Peak over Hong Kong.

134 King for a Day (or Two)

Pretty in Pink at The Langham Hotel in Melbourne.


EXQUISITE CUISINE. ELEGANT SETTING. EXTRAORDINARY LOCATION. A brilliant dining experience of the finest and premium Asian-influenced haute cuisine. Prepared by skillful and expert chefs, the menu features a delightful selection for lunch to a menu degustation for dinner, perfectly matched with an exceptional list of 400 wines, by our five-time Wine Spectator Awarded Sommelier. Toast to the night with a cocktail at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar. All this, in a priceless setting against the backdrop of gentle waves and sea breeze, by the sparkling waters of the Indian Ocean, creating a memorable night. To experience the flavours of Kayuputi call (62)(361) 8478 111 or email to kayuputi.bali@stregis.com for reservations. www.balibeyondgourmet.com

KAWASAN PARIWISATA NUSA DUA LOT S6 NUSA DUA . BALI 80363 . INDONESIA STREGIS.COM/BALI (62)(361) 8478 111

STREGIS.COM

HOTE L DEBU T S: AB U DHABI BANGKOK BAL HAR B OU R DOH A FLOR ENC E MAU R IT IU S SANYA SHENZ H E N TI ANJ I N Š2011 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their respective logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. FRV Travel l 7


PT Kub u Dua Me d ia J l. Petitenget 12 A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52. Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Dire c tor Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Sya ffri Soe wa rd i (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Gra p hic s Te guh Ana nta Photogra p hy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Distrib ution Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I c ul, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fina nc e Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Ma rke ting Gina , Pha y (sales@frvtravel.com) Ad ministra tion Gina , La lu Contrib utors Ve Ha nd ojo, Da vid Tra uts, Thoma s Jone s, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, K a tie Truma n, R a c he l Love , He rma n Von B e r nha rd i Agua yo, Me la nie Lee, E mma We stwood . Sub sc rip tion Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 250,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details. Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) Legal Associates Agus Sa mija ya & Pa rtne rs Gra ha Asa , Jl. Ka p te n Cok Agung Tre sna 49 Re non, De np a sa r. Te l: +62 361 242447, 247302, 08123924509. Fine Re sta ura nts a nd V illa s Tra ve l ma ga zine is a n ind e p e nd e nt, b imonthly p ub lic a tion. Ne xt e d ition d e a d line Se p te mb e r 15, 2011

FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e shou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y th ose of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Tr a ve l m a ga zin e is pr in te d by P T M e ga I n da h (T: 02161 9 0 5 2 9 ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a Me d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s (In d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , F o re i g n P re s s ( H o n g K o n g ) , P a n s i n g D i s t r i b ut i o n ( Ma l a y s i a ) a n d N a t i o n B o o k s I n t e r n a t i o n a l ( T h a i l a n d ) . C on ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places The high season has come early in Bali. It’s hard to say if there is ever a true low season here anymore, since it never seems to slow down, but being August we are now in the busiest time of the year again. Bali continues to attract people from all over the world. Everybody has their reasons to come to this island; the friendly people, the exquisite dining, the incredible accommodation, the barrelling surf, the all-night partying. Could be one or it could be all, but one thing is for sure, Bali offers something for everyone. In this edition we check six of the sexiest luxury villas on Bali. There are plenty more sexy villas in town of course but this selection of the best, most stylish and above all, drop-dead sexy villas is our current pick. Maybe you could even give them a try next time you are in Bali. Other Bali features in this edition are all about the food and include the new Gado Gado, chatting with the chef and sommelier there, a visit to a new restaurant in Umalas and a re-opened

restaurant in Oberoi. We also feature a special catch up on culinary things happening in Petitenget, one of the premier dining districts of Bali. Plus a whole bunch of hamburgers in the recipe section. Yum, I feel like eating one right now. Also in this edition, our intrepid writers are once again travelling around the nation, the region, the oceans and even as far as Brighton in the UK. It’s all about the travel in this magazine, how you get there, and amongst other things, what you eat and where you sleep when you arrive. We hope you enjoy travelling with us and also enjoy this packed Summer edition of FRV Travel. Send comments, gripes and letters to: editor@frvtravel.com

FRV CONTRIBUTORS

David Trauts Correspondent, English. Trauts has been a busy boy lately. Between trips back and forth from Jakarta and Perth, he’s been wining and dining at the new Gado Gado and Khaima restaurants and looking most fashionable in the W Retreat and Spa Bali.

Erza S.T. Many restaurants come and go but some are here to stay. In this edition, our opera producer decided to check out some of the city’s surviving institutions: Miyama and Pastis. And then stayed at The New Majestic Hotel in Singapore for an overnight re-check.

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Ve Handojo Ve Handojo tried to restore his image as an avid traveler. He was in Istanbul to scout some locations for a film project, and then queuing for the last installment of Harry Potter in Singapore. Back to Jakarta, he discovered that he actually has an alter ego named Morrissey. Now, he is under an intense treatment with a shrink.

Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel is one of Bali’s most prolific authors, writing extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.

Thomas Jones From three stars of Michelin in Kyoto to a million stars of the open-air night markets of Penang, on the surface it seems like Thomas has been doing nothing but eating and drinking in this issue. Not true, of course, as there is also a healthy dose of sleeping in great hotels to aid the digestion.

Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.


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AUGUST 2011 27

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Sumida Hanabe - Japan

Obon - Japan

Literally ‘fire flower’ in

Each August, Japan

Japanese the Ryogoku

celebrates the obon festival

Hanabe Festival in Tokyo is

and the return of their

the oldest fireworks event

ancestors’ spirits to the land of

in Japan. Originally held in

the living. Lanterns are hung,

1773 to appease the gods

drums are beaten and bon

and ward off evil spirits and

odori dances are performed

disease it is now the biggest

at large outdoor summer

fireworks festival in the land

gatherings that see much

with over 20,000 projectiles

revelry and drinking. When

launched throughout the

it’s over lanterns are floated

two-hour program and over a

on rivers, lakes and the sea in

million onlookers lining the river

order to guide the spirits back

banks. Aug 27.

home. Aug 13 - 15.

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Nusa Dua Arts Festival - Bali

The Sky’s the Limit Australia

The Nadam Festival Mongolia

The Wide Bay Australia

The Nadam Grassland

treats including singing,

International Airshow in

festival is a magnificent fair

dancing, drama, handcrafts

Bundaberg is three days of

featuring traditional Mongolian

and, of course eating, at the

aviation excellence showcasing

recreational and sporting

Gedung Amphitheatre in

the country’s leading

activities. It is held from July to

Denpasar. Performers will be

performing pilots, vintage

August when the flowers are

garbed in colourful, eye-

aircraft and aerobatic displays

blooming, the grass is green,

catching costumes, and huge

with spectacular tricks and

and the cattle and sheep are

head dresses which display the

stunts to entertain and enthrall.

well-fed - a sign of a good

exotic flavours of Indonesia.

It will feature Australia’s Top

harvest. The activities include

Last week of August.

Gun, Matt Hall and the largest

song and dance performances,

gathering of World War II

horse riding, archery and

fighters ever to be seen in

wrestling.

This week-long event in Nusa Dua features many Balinese

Queensland. Aug 19 to 21.

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Read It - Australia

Ridiya - Jakarta

The countdown to Melbourne

Designed to showcase the

Writers Festival is on! This

craftsmanship of batik fabrics,

year’s festival will explore the future of media in a digital

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kris daggers and the famous

Boat Tales - Laos

Art & Treasure - China

wayang shadow puppets from

This is a very auspicious

The Art Treasures Cultural

world, celebrate the growing

across the archipelago, the

time in Laos when the living

Festival is held each year to

popularity of graphic novels,

Kridiya event celebrates the

pay respect to the dead with

let visitors experience the

and focus on performance,

diversity of beauty and culture

offerings and ceremonies at

long history and cultural arts

from music to storytelling with

of excellence and helps build

many of the temples. It is also

of the Chinese nation. Since

some of the world’s finest

a positive image of Indonesian

a time when teams from in

its start, it has received over

writers of fiction, non-fiction

craftspeople, manufacturers,

and around Luang Prabang

400,000 visitors from home

and poetry appearing up close

designers and creators to the

compete in longtail boat racing

and abroad, and has become

and personal for adoring fans.

world. Jakarta Convention

and the streets are filled with

a national tradition and an

26 Aug - 4 Sept.

Center. Aug 18 – 22.

food vendors,shops and

important platform for arts and

festivities along the riverbanks.

crafts in China.

Aug 27 and 28.

Aug 16 - Sept 18

29 Swan Lake – Singapore The World’s premier theatrical ice skating company, The Imperial Ice Stars brings Swan Lake on Ice to the Marina Sands’ Grand Theater, with some of Russia’s finest competitive skaters gliding along to Tchaikovsky’s most famous score - and all on top of 14 tonnes of frozen water against lavish backdrops and scenery created by Eamon D’Arcy, one of Australasia’s leading scenic designers. From Aug 29.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 12 The Old Town Festival is

Malaysians step out into the

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an annual event held in

late summer air in droves to

Gone Fishing - Malaysia

September in the Taman

watch the myriad processions

This annual Royal Pahang

Fatahillah old city area and is

of thousands of lanterns in all

Billfish International Challenge

an icon of Jakarta’s history

shapes, sizes and designs this

puts the small Malaysian town

and cultural tourism. Here, you

September - the eighth (and

of Rompin in the international

can see the many cultural arts,

luckiest) month of the Chinese

limelight, when anglers from

creative industry exhibitions,

Lunar calendar. Mooncakes

the four corners of the Earth

“empoedoeloe” fashion shows,

are specially made for the

come together for four days

along with many traditional

event and gluttony is the order

of high action angling on the

games and attractions, culinary

of the day. Fun for the whole

high seas in search of the

treats and bazaars.

family. Sept 12.

largest billfish in the sea and, of

Old City Festival - Jakarta Lighting Up - Malaysia

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She’s a He? - Philippines

Tons of Tuna - Philippines

A unique annual beauty

The World loves tuna but

pageant featuring the best of

General Santos City loves it

the nation’s transgendered

even more. So much so that

‘ladies’ will be held in the Film

they hold a festival every year

Centre in Pasay City, Manila

in its honour. The tuna capital

in September. Prepare to be

of the Philippines opens the

amazed and bewildered by

festivities with a grand parade

how gorgeous these blokes

filled with music and dance

look as they vie for the title of

performances and a parade

Ms. Amazing Philippine Beauty.

with ornate floats designed

Who said beauty was only skin

like tuna and all manner of

deep? Sept 1.

undersea creatures from the

course, the prize money! Sept 23 – 26.

deep. Sept 3 – 5.

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High in Ladakh - India

Onam Festival - India

The Ladakh Festival is a

Onam is one of the greatest

major event organized in

festivals of Kerala, where locals

collaboration with the local

celebrate together without

communities of Leh and

care for caste and religion.

Kargilto to show the world the

Colourful aquatic festivals are

richness, depth and pageantry

organized along the sacred

of Ladakh’s centuries-old

river Pamba to celebrate the

culture. No-holds-barred polo,

homecoming of legendary King

archery and a bizarre evening

Mahabali and feature intricately

of musical concerts, mask

decorated pookalam, snake

dances by lamas and mock

boat races and exotic

marriage ceremonies must be

Kaikottikali dances.

seen to be believed.

Sept 7.

Buffalo Fights - Vietnam

Boats Ahoy - Thailand

The September buffalo fights

Various longboat-racing

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are taken very seriously in

festivals will be held across

Haiphong. Well-fed and

Thailand during the Thai

Samui Jazz - Thailand

expertly-trained bulls are

Buddhist Lent period this

year’s inaugural event the air

elaborately decorated and

September in a show of high

of Koh Samui will once again

paraded with much pomp and

excitement, bright colours

be filled with the soothing

ceremony by their owners and

and testosterone. Raced on

sounds of jazz music at the

followers into the ring, where

days when the river tides are

Samui International Jazz

they face each other down.

highest the races pits crews

Music Festival. Attracting

At the signal they are released

from various villages in a test of

music lovers and jazz

and charge head long into the

strength and stamina to be the

performers from across the

fray. Much fun and merriment

best they can be.

world Samui is a meeting

Following the success of last

ensues with sore heads for all

point for jazz lovers to

in the morning.

celebrate under the balmy skies of paradise. Sept 18–25.

Sept 1 - 15.

FRV Travel l 13


BITS&PIECES

Petitenget Is The Place To Be Maca Villas & Spa opens in exclusive Bali neighbourhood. Timed to coincide with Bali’s peak tourist season, the brand new Maca Villas & Spa Seminyak has just opened the doors of its new private luxury villas. You can tell by the configuration of two two-bedroom villas and 23 one-bedroom villas, all with private pools, that they are built for love. Indeed, these intimate villas are purposefully designed for honeymooners and couples who desire the utmost in privacy yet still want to be near all the wonderful restaurants, bars and beach life that Seminyak offers the discerning holiday maker. Maca villas have all the conveniences of modern living including a café, a spa, a large infinity pool/bar area and their signature restaurant, Masé Kitchen and Bar, which faces the street and is fully-enclosed and air-conditioned for comfort with a distinctive Asian fusion cuisine. It’s the perfect place to meet, greet and make new acquaintances with like-minded people in the hottest holiday destination on the planet - Petitenget. www.macabalivillas.com

bits&PIECES Local Quotes 15 seconds with a local resident.

Salvador Bali asks Sylvia Beiwinkler, the new manager at Kendra Art Gallery in Seminyak, Bali, what she thinks is Hot and Not in her new home town.

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S.B. Let’s take a day off, what, where and beginning with your favorite watering hole? S. That would be Ku De Ta, on the beach and I can bring the kids as well. S.B. Restaurants? S. Italian-wise, I like Sasa on Oberoi, I have a passion for Indian as well and that would be Queen’s Tandoor on Jl. Legian. S.B. Weekends away? S. I like the Gili Islands or doing something with the kids up north of Bali. S.B. Getting away from Electric Avenue.

S. Ha, I like that, it’s a good way of putting it. S.B. Shopping-wise? S. I’m into white, so basically that’s what I buy, usually around Jl.Oberoi. S.B. What’s your favorite art gallery? S. I like Vivi Yip Artroom in Jakarta. S.B. What about the kids? S. If they had a choice, it would be the Waterbom every day, (Laughter), also the Safari Park. My daughter also loves Potato Head. S.B. Music wise? S.I like the music I grew up with in the seventies and eighties.

S.B. Where would you find that here in Bali? S. At home on my Ipod. S.B. Do you do spas? S. I love spas, my favorite is Callego on Jl.Petitenget. I also love and do yoga. S.B. Where wouldn’t you go in Bali? S. Kuta during high season. S.B. Where would you take a visitor to really impress them? S. No need to impress, Bali’s got it all, except for snow.


BITS&PIECES

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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

ages will keep you busy in the shade, while the dancers literally set the stage on fire.

Let’s Get Crazy All Over Again Bali gears up for another super party season in 2011.

Ku De Ta From Crazy P to Todd Terry, Asia’s ultimate lifestyle destination does it again with some hot summer parties. First up is the Bikini Day Party on Sunday August 7, where less really is more. The UK’s mighty Crazy P will fly in for a live performance of their signature mighty soul disco and house blends. DJ’s Hot Toddy and Ron Basejam will keep the night going from the decks, before Hong Kong’s drum master, Aldo “Bongo,” comes to drop a massive set of beats on the crowd. Australia’s own break-dance crew, the Wikid Force Breakers, return to KU DE TA for a special encore performance. Activities for all

The next weekend it’s “Happy Birthday KU DE TA,” on Saturday 13 August. They have developed a Japanese theme party, with a share of the proceeds going to victims of the recent events in Japan. A backdrop of red lanterns, Zen fountains, kimono clad entertainers, as well as a very large contribution from our sumo wrestlers await, while dance music legend Todd “The God” Terry welcomes you to his private temple of house music and KU DE TA’s own DonniOne and Supercozi complete a stealth attack with ninja-like precision. On Saturday, 20 August, HMS KU DE TA docks in the Indian Ocean with the world-renowned White Party. Dig out your naval whites, bidding “Hello Sailor” to thousands of fellow partygoers in a night of marine mischief. All aboard, indeed. A four course “Navy Ball” kicks off the evening, while the sweet sounds of Indonesia’s 22-piece Pitoelas Big Band will provide the perfect setting swing. All hands on deck as DJ’s Spen and Karizma, whose signature beats have been in demand all over the world for more than two decades, battle it out for deck supremacy. Anchors away!

Cocoon Beach Club Cocoon will be holding regular parties on the beach front with Hot Summer Nights being held every Wednesday of August and Splash pool parties every Sunday. Cocoon also has two large scale parties in August. WILD being held on Friday 12th of August, with DJ Mr V flying in from New York and a line up of wild and exotic entertainers, then VEGAS SHOWTIME on Friday 19th of August with DJ duo Express 2 from the UK and Vegas showgirls to keep guests entertained. Just like last year, the beachside venue will be one of the happening places this August.

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BITS&PIECES

High Season On Bali More Party action around the Island

Hu’u Bar Besides their regular events like Chill Thurs and Mixed Tape, Hu’u has a smorgasbord of entertainment this high season. Highlights feature French DJ, Feadz (Ed Banger) on Thursday 11 Aug, and then FTV launching their new beverage, F Vodka, with a Casino Royale party on Friday 12 Aug. ‘Back in the Days’ with DJs Anton and Hogi from Future10 Jakarta spinning oldskul tracks

and videos all night long is scheduled for Saturday 20 Aug and let’s not forget the inimitable Solid Gold on Friday 26 Aug with DJ Golddigger pumping out his hits from the days of vinyl complete with his famed video set played on three giant screens both inside and outdoors. Hu’u continues giving punters what they want for a rocking night out in style.

Potato Head Beach Club The High Season Summer series kicks off on Wednesday 10 Aug with Zootato Head presenting an Ed Banger Records Party with Dj Mehdi, Breakbot and Busy P on the line up. Leading French Electro-Pop music at its best in the playground of Potato Head! When people are asked, who is the most interesting Independent label out there, the name Ed Banger often pops up. Founded by Pedro Winter in 2002, Ed Banger records is an electronic music label home to acts such as Justice, Cassius, Uffie, Dj Medhi, Mr Ozio, Breakbot and Winter himself... Busy P.

Bigger Is Better Clio expands in Seminyak. Clio Apartments Bali has recently completed its new wing, boasting four deluxe suites, two lofts and the 210m2 skyloft. All uniquely designed in a natural industrial style, the new spaces include huge comfy sofas, 40” Sony screens, Blu-ray players and iPod speaker systems. All guests have unlimited use of Clio’s DVD & Blu-ray library, and Wi-Fi internet. Located in downtown Seminyak, it’s only a short walk to many great restaurants and trendy boutiques. Clio provides a lot of style at a reasonable rate. Prices start from Rp 500k for studio up to Rp 2.5 million for the two-bedroom skyloft. www.cliobali.com

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Chapter 2, PHBC presents Summer Syndrome on Friday 19 Aug, which is dedicating a strict door policy to a “Strictly Costume Party”, where it will be your time to Walk into a Dream, with the most elaborate, or simple costume you can think of. The headline act of Summer Syndrome will be Empire of the Sun, performing live. Burning throughout the globe in the last three years, EOS have been delivering spectacular live shows with a touch of magic, which is reminiscent of a carnival theatre. Combining dreamy imagery and melodic electronic sounds with visual artistry, the audience is taken by the voice of lead man Luke Steele. EOS achieved chart success with their first single “Walking on a Dream” which peaked around the world, and in itself became synonymous with indie-alternative success. Keep up-to-date with all the high season events with The Beat magazine, Bali’s top gig-guide. beatmag.com


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BITS&PIECES

The Villas Just Got A Whole Lot Bigger Another First for The Villas in Seminyak. The most glorious example of a premier private members club with world-class amenities is now available to guests of The Villas, Seminyak with the formation of a key partnership with Bali’s renowned Canggu Club. It will allow its guests temporary membership status of the Club during their stay at The Villas, and includes access to their state of the art facilities. The family-friendly Canggu Club is set on a sprawling four-hectare estate in an excellent location amongst the rice fields of Canggu. With a large colonial style clubhouse as its centrepiece, the club provides restaurants, kids play rooms with supervised child minding, a fully equipped gymnasium with state-of-theart equipment, a fitness centre, 25 metre pool, floodlit tennis courts, and air conditioned squash courts, WiFi internet, a library, conference rooms and indooroutdoor restaurant and bar facilities.

“Whilst The Villas, offers the privacy and peaceful oasis of a superb Bali villa holiday, and our Prana Spa is unmatched by any hotel in the area, we are delighted to further expand our guest experience with an affiliation with the Canggu Club,” said The Villas General Manager, Andrew Keating. Canggu Club is a short 15 – 25 minute taxi ride away depending on traffic. www.thevillas.net | www.cangguclub.com

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Mile High Dining Etihad to transform in-flight dining with onboard chefs. Etihad Airways, the national airline of the United Arab Emirates, this year plans to transform in-flight dining, with the introduction of qualified international chefs dedicated to food service excellence in its Diamond First class cabins. “This development will enable us to offer a five-star restaurant style of service in the sky, with our first class guests receiving unparalleled attention and choice – for example, the opportunity of having their personal chef tailor make dishes based on their individual tastes and preferences,” says Chief Executive Officer of Etihad Airways, James Hogan, The new chef service will be introduced progressively on selected routes from October this year and will be available on all flights offering first class by the end of 2011.

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Chinese Bullets New high-speed train between Beijing and Shanghai.

Opened at the end of June, and traveling at speeds of up of up to 300km/h, the new high-speed rail link between Beijing and Shanghai will whisk passengers between the two megalopoli in just 4 hours and 45 minutes, and promises to change the face of the east coast of China.  

The trains have first, business and second class seating and will offer the traveller a ringside seat at the beauty of rural China from ground level. With 90 trains operating daily carrying 1,004 passengers each compared with only 50 flights per day currently linking the two cities, the train system is expected to have a significant impact on the airline business.


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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

Keeping Green In The City The Dharmawangsa Jakarta Eco-hotel certified.

Looking for a low impact stay in the Big Durian? Then book a room at the Dharmawangsa Jakarta, a hotel which has officially been awarded the Ecohotels certification by TÜV Rheinland Group, a global leader in independent testing and assessment services. The hotel recently implemented the Eco Hotel Management System Standard and focused on all aspects of its waste management structure in order

to minimize its impact on the environment so they can ensure that their guests are staying in safe, non-toxic and energyefficient accommodation. They have successfully managed competence in water consumption and waste production without compromising their premium five-star international standards for hotel guests and clients. They have also improved on compost recycling, lowenergy lighting, non-smoking environments, housekeeping’s use of environmental-friendly chemicals, linen and towel re-use, greywater recycling of kitchen, bath and laundry water, as well as a newspaper recycling program. As an added incentive for others to follow suit, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta appoints only outsource operators who hold certification for recycling oil, hazardous and wet waste. Good to see someone keeping it green in the big city.

Two Decades At The Top Grand Hyatt Jakarta celebrates 20 years of hospitality. Grand Hyatt Jakarta opened its doors in 1991 at the most prestigious address in the heart of the city. This year sees the hotel celebrating its 20th anniversary and it still remains committed to providing authentic hospitality and the highest levels of service. The hotel has become an icon of luxury and service excellence, and the perfect place for those who appreciate the finest things in life. Grand Hyatt Jakarta has touched many lives and made a difference to many people over the past two decades, so to mark its 20th anniversary,

the hotel has undertaken a Corporate Social Responsibility programme that includes engaging with Habitat For Humanity Indonesia to build houses for the underprivileged in Java. All its life, Grand Hyatt Jakarta has been recognized with countless awards and distinctions, and these have encouraged the hotel not only to maintain its service quality and product, but also constantly improve them, so it will still be at the top for the next 20 years and beyond. www.jakarta.grand.hyatt.com.

New Blood In The Kitchen Westin Bali welcomes Chef Ewald Jeske. With a 30 year tenure in the food and beverage industry, Chef Ewald Jeske brings a wealth of culinary knowledge and experience to The Westin Resort Nusa Dua. As a graduate from the Hotel School Heidelberg, Chef Ewald has accumulated a long list of career highlights from being a Guest Chef on the Queen Elizabeth II to assuming the role of a judge for the Salon Culinaire Gold Coast as well as for Culinary Art, New Delhi, India. He was also a guest chef on the Jeff Jansz ‘What’s Cooking’ 22 l FRV Travel

television show and had the honour to cook for H.R.H., The Prince of Wales in 2005. “I am excited to be here on this beautiful island,“ he says. “My first few weeks have been filled with dynamic events from a meeting of World Bank executives to welcoming Miss World. I am passionate about the brand mission of preserving wellness in the travel industry, therefore, in the near future our guests can expect to experience creative cuisine that promotes healthy living and tastes great too.”


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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

And The Winner Is... The St. Regis Bali Resort wins big at Asia Pacific Hotel Awards. The St. Regis Bali Resort was recently recognised with a prestigious award for Best Resort Hotel at the Asia Pacific Hotel Awards Gala in Shanghai on 31 May 2011. The St. Regis Bali Resort occupies a breathtaking beachfront location with spectacular views of the Indian Ocean and neighbouring Bali Golf & Country Club. Established 17 years ago, The International Hotels Awards, in association with Bloomberg Television, seeks the finest operations throughout a wide range of areas to identify, highlight and reward excellence throughout the global hospitality industry. The St. Regis Bali Resort will represent Asia-Pacific in this category at the International Hotel Awards which will be held later in the year in the UK to find the ultimate world’s best hotels.

The Island’s Booming Eat, pray, sell drives Bali hotel Villa-fication. Last year’s overseas arrivals to Bali saw a record of more than two million visitors and the island is enjoying a golden era in its tourism and property sectors as a result. Currently the hot ticket has been an unprecedented flood into the marketplace by condotels with between 4,000-5,000 units currently in development or the planning stage. In many cases the branding or integration with international management companies is a key tool in drawing investment buyers and end users. Non-traditional accommodation such as private villas and estates are increasingly becoming a competitive factor in the mainstream accommodation industry. There are well over 1,000 upscale villas on the island where annual occupancy figures rival those of top hotels with companies such as Elite Havens, The Villa Guide and the new Marketing Villas Limited gaining a significant share of luxury rentals.

Asia Still Leading The Way Bali and Bangkok score high in the Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards. Bangkok has retained the number one spot as World’s Best City in Travel + Leisure’s magazine’s 16th annual World’s Best Awards readers’ poll for the second year. Bali is number one island in Asia, and the second favourite in the world. Meanwhile, hotels in the region that placed on the list of Top 100 Hotels Overall include the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Devi in Chiang Mai, La Résidence Phou Vou in Luang Prabang, Laos, and The Peninsula Bangkok, ranked numbers 7, 16 and 40, respectively. The Best International Airline is Singapore Airlines with Thai Airways International coming in at No. 9. Australia and New Zealand also performed well, with the Lodge at Kauri Cliffs in New Zealand bagging 11th place on the list of Top 100 Hotels Overall. Meanwhile, Discovery Shores in the Philippines was named best spa in Asia. Go Asia!

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BALIPETITENGET

Phil Mimbimi at Hu’u Bar Metis

Petitenget

now

Petitenget in the Seminyak/Kerobokan area of Bali has developed into one of the most premium fine-dining areas of the island, if not the whole of Southeast Asia, in just a handful of years. Many top restaurateurs have opened fabulous new restaurants with some of the best chefs on the planet operating in their prestigious kitchens. Even famed Bali-based U.S. Chef, Chris Salons from Mozaic is said to be opening a food outlet on the beach there soon. FRV Travel takes a closer look at what is happening right now in Petitenget. 26 l FRV Travel

Hu’u Bar’s chef, Phil Mimbimi has been busy in the kitchen making new dishes for the menu which were just launched in the latter stages of July. According to Mimbimi there are some standouts in the new list including a hu’uillabaise Mediterranean fisherman style seafood soup, a seafood salad with pomelo and lemon vodka dressing, and on the mains list, a steak Ponchentrain tenderloin topped with chunks of lobster baked in hollandaise, sauté mushroom, spinach and red wine sauce, and a crispy salmon skin with saffron risotto, sauté green bean and smoked tomato beurre blanc. Mmmm, it sounds good and it doesn’t get any better dining under the stars and lazing on the big cushions in the garden area of Hu’u and let’s not forget the parties on the weekends inside the club, too. It’s got the lot. With a new seasonal menu, the dynamic kitchen team at KU DE TA is showcasing a commitment to local producers alongside the use of state-ofthe-art technologies consistent with the most refined techniques from around the culinary world to produce their mouth-watering menu. The new palm sugar torchon reflects Chef Phillip Davenport’s classic French training, enlivened with his own smart, contemporary touches which include lightly smoking the foie gras before cooking sous vide, or under vacuum. Bittersweet orange marmalade puree and praline pistachios combine with a fresh salad as the perfect counterbalance to the richness of the torchon and the fresh baked brioche that accompanies it. The special Balinese ginger palm


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sugar in the dish comes from a network of local, sustainable, fair trade producers. The deft touch of Chef de Cuisine Benjamin Cross is found in new dishes with Spanish and North African influences that blend with Asian accents. The new poached spring chicken roulade is an elegant and contemporary serving of a popular, local ingredient. The chicken is boned and rolled around a mushroom and truffle butter before being gently cooked in a thermal circulating water bath. It is served with a Moroccan spiced lentil ragu. Also new on the desserts menu is a piña colada based on the popular cocktail. It is made using local coconuts for a moist sponge cake and pineapples preserved in a natural caramel made from local fruit. Tender bubbles of rum and Sauvignon Blanc defy gravity, while a coconut macaroon shows the kitchen’s commitment to classic and delicious pastry. Behind the scenes a sparkling new paco jet allows the chefs to ‘micro-puree’ deep-frozen foods into an ultra-light mousse, cream or sauce without thawing – capturing the natural flavours and nutrients in individual, ready-to-serve portions. And, indispensible in the modern kitchen, especially in the exotic heat of Bali, is KU DE TA’s new blast chiller which is able to bring down temperatures in the fastest possible time.

Sarong

Potato Head

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EVO

Ku De Ta Chefs

Metis at the top of Jalan Petitenget has announced a number of new additions to their menus including new dishes with 100% pure Russian Osetra Caviar and introduced a Mediterranean Cold Platter with imported cold cuts, home-made terrine and a tasty Spanish cheese. In addition, watch out for the new re-designed Monthly A.O.C. Cheese Selection a New Born Star Coconut Soufflé - a must for sweets lovers, and the re-introduction of the Assorted Suite Temptation due to high clientele request. For this August Chef Doudou has designed an extended Tapas Bites menu for the lounge area (very popular with their early evening happenings). Included in the mix are; Mini Trio Wagyu Burgers, Steam Dumplings, Vietnamese Rice Paper Rolls and many more new items.

Cooking School. “I’m currently working on the menu for our new restaurant, Mama San and conceptualizing the cocktail drink coffees food Asian high tea etc,” says Will.

Another super-busy Petitenget restaurant, Sarong has been stepping up to the plate too. “We have just had a great bar consultant come in and change our cocktail list and doing some very cool things with that,” Chef Will Meyrick told FRV Travel. And they have been busy proofing the last few recipes for the Sarong Cook Book which they are aiming to launch at the same time as the Sarong

A relative new-comer to the area is the enormous Potato Head Beach Club right on the beach. The dining has been improving every day and night since opening with a number of delectable dishes on the menu. A new dining outlet has just opened called Lilin to the left side as you walk into the venue which focuses on Pan Asian cuisine and the food is exceptional. There’s an

Sentosa Villas’ main restaurant has gone through a complete renovation recently and has re-opened with a new name and concept. Chef William Collier says the Italian Supper Club concept of EVO restaurant has been his baby and comes from his days back in the US where he worked in the original New York Supper Club. Highlights of the new design are the air-conditioned dining area with plush, semi-circular booths and freestanding tables and chairs, and the outdoor central bar overlooking the swimming pool area. The dining and service is fine with chef Collier working his magic in the kitchen.


Petitenget is developing into the slickest new dining spot in bali with new top quality venues opening almost every single week. enormous selection of tasty Asian tapas to choose from, and then for the main course, if hungry or sharing with friends, try the delicious live seafood being scooped straight out of the aquarium tank alongside the casual and relaxed dining area and prepared in myriad styles and flavours. Try the Chinese grouper or the grilled lobster if you are looking for the ultimate dining experience. The W Retreat and Spa is another new-comer to Petitenget and has been literally Woo-ing local residents and visitors alike since opening a few months ago. The Sunday Brunch in the Star Fish Bloo restaurant from 11.30am to 3pm is attracting a lot of attention. There are a multitude of tastes as Chef Jack Yoss and team whip up a delicious selection of Pan Asian flavours right before your eyes every Sunday. FRV

Star Fish Bloo at W

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BALIdining

THE NEW Chez Gado Gado Photos: Sulthon

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chez Gado Gado restaurant was recently renovated and is back overlooking seminyak beach in all its balinese glory with the aid of architect fredo taffin and the owner’s influences. FRV Travel l 31


Chef Quib has had much time to consider the new menu for gado gado and has returned with a new confidence and precision that will define this leading bali restaurant as one of the best.

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BALIdining

I

recently had the opportunity to participate, along with my wife and a couple of friends, in a pre-opening dinner at the fully renovated beach-side venue, Chez Gado Gado Restaurant to sample some of the new culinary creations of Chef Quib Rademaker from Holland and to taste some good wines and cocktails suggested by Chilean sommelier Felipe Godoy. We were not disappointed. Among the many delights suggested by Chef Quib I personally enjoyed the mouth-watering braised beef brisket immensely, definitely one of my favourite dishes from their new menu and a must for beef lovers. I have known Quib and Felipe for quite a while and since the beginning I have been very impressed by their talent and their uncomplicated approach to the world of food and wine. However, behind their simple approach lies a neverending pursuit for the highest quality ingredients to create simple yet elegantly prepared food pared with great wines from around the world to create the best possible culinary experience for their guests at Gado Gado.

The food: Quib

Quib and Felipe a couple of good friends at gado gado with a talent for food and wine Text: Herman von Bernhardi Photos: Sulthon

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How long have you been working in Indonesia? I have been working here almost six years, two years in Jakarta and the rest of the time I have been here in Bali at Gado Gado. What is the best part of working here? The best part is leisure time right next to work. How did you get involved in the world of cuisine? At a certain point in my life I decided that maybe I wanted to be involved in the hotel business, I had already finished studying economics so I decided to go to cooking school for one year to get more knowledge about the cooking process. It fitted me so well that instead of going into hotel management I never left the kitchen and I continued learning more and more about cooking.

“During the renovation process here at the restaurant I had the opportunity and the time to go around town searching for new ideas for the menu.�

How would you describe your food? I would describe it as comfort food prepared with the best ingredients and presented as elegantly as possible. I want people to read the menu and easily understand what they will get.


The wantilan roof and lounge of the bar and new entrance area offers an enormous space for diners and guests wanting to chill before and after dinner. FRV Travel l 35


different countries and wine regions offer different experiences. How would you describe your wine list? I think it is well balanced. It has wines from all the important regions around the world and we also offer a good selection of wine by the glass. How many wines do you offer by bottle and by the glass? By the bottle around 120 and by the glass we have 14 options. What do you think about Chef Quib’s cuisine? I think he is a very talented chef who creates food full of flavours but without being too complicated. Actually some of his most simple dishes are the ones I enjoy the most.

The wines: Felipe Where did your inspiration for the new menu come from? During the renovation process here at the restaurant I had the opportunity and the time to go around town searching for new ideas for the menu. Also the internet has been a good source but I would say that cook books have been very inspiring. I have been reading a lot and with all the free time I had I decided to learn more and improve some of my cooking techniques to fine tune dishes for the new menu. Simple food has to be perfectly prepared to be fully enjoyed. How important is the relation between food and wine? It is very important, however, while making a menu I am not thinking about the wines. I know later, once the menu is done, we will taste the food with Felipe so he, as a sommelier, will help customers to find the right wines for what they have ordered. What are your expectations for the restaurant after the renovation? We want to be the best venue in town. We want to rock! What do you think about Felipe’s wine list? I think it has a very wide selection of wines that will suit most tastes and budgets. I know he makes sure there are no bad or ordinary wines on the list and that they are very suitable for the food we serve at the restaurant.

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How long have you been working in Indonesia? I have been here four years. What is the best part of working in Bali? I like the atmosphere, it is very relaxed. Also, I like meeting people from all around the world and I really enjoy the large variety of foods and restaurants available here. Why did you decide to become a sommelier? While studying hotel management in Chile my wine teacher, who later became one of my best friends, inspired me about the great things wine has to offer. After that I started to be more and more involved with wines and then finally I decided that being a sommelier was something I really enjoyed. Why do you think having a sommelier is important in a fine dining restaurant such as Chez Gado Gado? It is very important to have someone who can advise customers about the best options to complement their food, not only wines but also aperitifs and any kind of beverage that will make their dining experience more complete. To do that in a proper manner you need someone with the knowledge of a sommelier. As a Chilean sommelier are you focused mainly in Chilean wines? I feel very comfortable with Chilean wines of course, but one of the best things working here is to have access to purchase wines from all over the world for my wine list. I enjoy wines from everywhere; I believe that

How do you deal with the difficulties in wine and alcohol in Indonesia? I am always looking for new wines from all the suppliers for my wine list. I try to maintain a good relationship with all of them and they usually keep me up to date with what is going on in the market. It is not always easy but being flexible helps.

The friends How long have you known each other? Quib: We met here at Gado Gado, Felipe was already working here and we became good friends from the very beginning. I always had an interest in wines and Felipe is very interested in food, and he also has a good appetite for it, so it was very easy for us to find something to talk about after work. How does your friendship influence your work at Gado Gado? Quib: Many culinary ideas have appeared while having a glass of wines after work. We always talk about food and wines and that has definitely helped to improve what we offer our guests, both in food and for wine. Felipe: We always challenge each other to discover new flavors and new experiences with food and wine. We are very passionate about it and that allows us to broaden our knowledge and the experience of what we do. This will be reflected in our work in the restaurant and of course improving our interaction with the guests. FRV

Gado Gado Jalan Camplung Tanduk Seminyak, Bali. +62 361 736 966 www.gadogadorestaurant.com


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BALIKHAIMA

A Contemporary KHAIMA Returns

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Eats Street lifts to further heights as Khaima restaurant returns with a whole new look and style.

Text: Trauts Photos: Sulthon

K

haima restaurant on Jalan Laksmana, Oberoi has built a large following over the past nine years. It recently re-opened, completely revitalised and modernised, after being closed for a few months of renovation. Patrons are now again able to enjoy the best Moroccan cuisine available on the island via chef Nora’s kitchen. The famed tagines, cous cous and curries are still on the menu with new dishes arriving every week as the restaurant moves into full swing with aid of new chef Andrew from the Ritz Carlton Jakarta. Japanese designer Nobuyuki Narabayashi, previously of Super Potato fame and now Design 9, has again

Left: The new bar area mixes primitive with modern and is the ideal place to meet before dinner. Below: The modern contemporary design of the restaurant interior shows warmth and style.

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Top: The lounge area at the rear of the restaurant with zashiki style seating. Middle: The view from the bar to the main dining area. Bottom: A detail of Nobuyuki Narabayashi’s warm and homely styling.

worked with Driss and Nora to create the new Khaima. The first time they worked together produced the latest incarnation of The Junction restaurant further down ‘Eats Street’, which opened last year to great effect and acclaim. This time around they have held true to the Moroccan and Islamic roots, but in a more contemporary way than the previous Khaima design, incorporating Islamic geometric details in the wood panelling on the ceilings and walls and indigenous Moroccan artefacts on display. A primitive touch is introduced by the use of polished, thin tree branches bound together by thick cord to make more wall-panelling, while a modern effect is supplied by simple wooden tables and chairs and the ultra-modern open

This time around they have held true to the Moroccan and Islamic roots, but in a more contemporary way. kitchen already buzzing with activity most nights of the week. The new Khaima wouldn’t be out of place in a trend-setting dining area of Casablanca or Paris, but it happens to be right here in Bali. Another cool addition to the restaurant is a full bar, with adjacent tall tables and stools for dining, near the entrance, with a new bar manager shaking up a range of cocktails, which offers patrons a pleasant setting for a pre- or post-dinner drink. The shisha hookah pipes can still be enjoyed in the also newly-renovated, rear lounge area. Khaima remains economically priced and value for money dining with a large list of affordable wines from all over the planet to accompany your meal. It will be interesting to see what new dishes come to the menu list in the coming months, but for now, it is back, more interesting than ever, and many a fan will be glad to have the chance to dine Moroccan once again in Bali. FRV

Khaima Moroccan Restaurant, Lounge & Bar Jalan Laksmana Bali, Indonesia Tel: +62 361 742 3925

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BALIFASHION

woostyle W Retreat and spa bali is the new luxurious kid on the petitenget block. it’s woo, bloo, and above all, wow — FRV Travel takes italian fashion designer Riccardo Salsone & bon bon on a stroll through the spaces of w.

Photos by Adam Rasyid 42 l FRV Travel


Garment: IMAN Dress and IMAN one shoulder bikini Material: Chiffon dress and microfibre lycra bikini with hand embroidered wood beads, african bangles, gold coins earrings. Space: Wet Deck. FRV Travel l 43


Garment: Jumpsuit MICHELLE Material: Puree white cotton jumpsuit layers. Space: Starfish Bloo 44 l FRV Travel


Garment: Dress CHANTAL Material: Chiffon one seam dress and cotton lining, sequined handbag. Space: WooBar FRV Travel l 45


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Garment: Dress CHANTAL Material: Chiffon split sleeves with hand-embroidered crystals. Space: Private dining room FRV Travel l 47


Garment: Dress SOFIA Material: Cotton Indian pattern butterfly sleeved dress. Space: Fire restaurant. 48 l FRV Travel


Garment: Dress MARLENE Material: Cotton embroidery “poncho sangallo” dress with belt. Space: WooBar FRV Travel l 49


Garment: Dress CARMEN Material: Poncho detailing in Cotton African pattern and lace border (pizzo macrame) . Space: Lounge Verandah

W Retreat & Spa Bali Jl. Petitenget Seminyak, Bali Tel: +62 361 4738106 Model: Ratih (booking.bali@rightcharacter.com) Wardrobe: Bon Bon www.bon-bon.it Available at Centro Discovery Shopping Mall Kuta-Bali Stores in Milan, Rome, Napoly, Spain, London, Amsterdam, E- mail : bonbonindonesia@gmail.com Make Up: Eka SHOPisticated +62 8123 783 0079 Photos: Adam Rasyid Styling: David Trauts 50 l FRV Travel


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BALIWARUNGKAYU

WK The ‘No Menu’ Restaurant 52 l FRV Travel


Text by Rachel Love Formerly home to only simple eateries, Jl Bumbak on the far side of Bali’s Rural Umalas, now boasts a fine-dining restaurant with a ‘no menu’ concept. WK (Warung Kayu) opened in the first week of March this year, serving good quality ‘fusion’ dishes accompanied by great wines.

WK

is rustic and charming, an antique wooden joglo building bordered by a white picket fence. Dining takes place in the semi-open air ambience of its laid-back setting; tables and chairs spill out into a pretty garden, and flowering thunbergia cascades from the roof. Ryan Simorangkir and Tyler Peek are WK’s executive chefs. Ryan was born in California and raised in Jakarta, and Tyler is from Nashville, Tennessee. They met at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts Pasadena, where they worked with Wolfgang Puck, and they both did an internship at the famed French chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant ‘miX on the beach’ at the W Retreat & Spa, Vieques Island, Puerto Rico. Ryan and Tyler believe that fixed menus are restrictive, so at WK they offer a sophisticated tasting menu of à la minute creations, which is changed on a daily basis as dishes evolve, disappear and return in accordance with market availability. Their fusion concept is executed in a vibrant Puerto Rican and Caribbean style with an artful French twist that explores Asian flavours. Using Bali’s freshest ingredients, these enthusiastic young chefs cook whatever inspires them at the time, orchestrating their four-course tasting menus like a symphony, and embellishing dishes with colour contrast and sauce designs. The four courses may be pre-fixed on a daily

basis, but a choice of two appetisers and two mains are available, usually one seafood and one meat, plus an amuse-bouche, a soup and a dessert. Asked how they decide on what they are going to cook each day, Ryan replies, “We’ve been working together for three years now, so after arguing for a while, we always manage to figure out something that we can both agree upon.” The average age in the kitchen is 23; Ryan and Tyler head a team of five, all of whom fulfil the joint roles of being waiters as well as chefs, coming to the table to be close up and personal, discussing preferences, dishes, and ingredients with the guests. Ceviche, for example is a popular, light and refreshing appetiser, typically made from raw fish marinated in citrus juice and spiced with chilli. Another starter could be a chicken liver pate, or vichyssoise for the soup course. A main dish might potentially present Balinese spice-rubbed chicken with shallots, lemongrass, and mashed potatoes with infused sambal mata, or sake soy sea bass with cilantro rice, purple spinach and baby kai-lan. And for dessert? “Well, how about a rosemary lemon tart,” suggests Tyler, “with blueberry sauce and blueberry foam.” WK Restaurant is open Monday to Saturday from 7pm, and will be opening for lunch very soon. Live music takes place on Saturday nights. FRV

Warung Kayu Jl Bumbak 41, Kerobokan Bali, Indonesia Tel: +62 361 900 2505 www.wkrestaurantbali.com

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BALIVILLAS

BALI’s

VILLAS

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A brand new trend is emerging in the holiday market as the luxury private villa phenomenon gains ground and creates a paradigm shift in how people choose where they stay. here’s six of the sexiest villas in Bali...just for a taste.


Istana is the benchmark and inpiration for all villas that have followed in its wake since opening in 2003, with views that are tremendously off the charts and entertainment capabilities second to none. A six-bedroom cliff top estate that is the Bali epitome of design, service, facility, privacy, fine wining, dining and good times. It is also where Sir Richard Branson stays so they must be doing something right. With its own private chef, separate living spaces and cliff-top heights, this villa is out-of-this-world. FRV Travel l 55


Think you can find anywhere else near Seminyak with as much open space on the sand? The answer is no. This Bali style luxury villa has recently been totally renovated , has five bedrooms, is fully-staffed with direct beach access and enough lawn for a hundred tents (big families and festivals take note) or even a cricket match. If you passed up the opportunity to hold or even attend a wedding here you would be mad.

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VILLA ASLI Lovers of history and tradition will be in seventh heaven at Villa Asli amidst the village like setting of traditional Javan joglos, shipped, restored and lovingly erected to create the regal ambience befitting the upper classes who used to live in them. Royal courts meet modern comforts and the fine taste of Indonesia’s past will rub off on all who stay. It’ totems, petrified woods, statues, and lanterns are all hand picked and placed in as sexy a tradidional surrounding as you are likely to find. FRV Travel l 59


For those with a penchant for East Bali’s sea views and volcanic backdrops, The Ylang Ylang is the beachfront bliss out pad for you. Privacy, peace, solitude, comfort, and service right on the beach with big views and ceiling heights to match. Six comfortable Bali-style bedrooms embrace the 15m swimming pool and at night when its lit like the Empire State against and the pounding of the waves it’s truely spectacular luxury on the sand. 60 l FRV Travel


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The edge of reason? The edge of reality? Definitely on the edge of the best cliff top location in Bali, that’s for sure. The Edge is a sprawling estate comprising the one-bedroom ‘The Villa’, the two-bedroom ‘The Mood’, the three-bedroom ‘The Cliff’, and the grandaddy of them all, the five-bedroom ‘The View’. Papparazzi proof and private, if taken as a whole it can sleep more than 20 with premium service and nearly every facility known to man except a tennis court and a helicopter. And it’s priced to match; if you have to ask, you can’t afford it.

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VILLA BAWANA For a rural Bali experience that will make all your holiday snaps look like the inventory for a postcard factory then Puri Bawana is the place. Thatched roofs, huge lawns, fish-filled lily ponds, waterfalls and streams enclosed by jungles and rice fields characterise the five bedroom/one bunk-room piece of coconut palm and blue sky paradise. A brilliant slice of authentic Indonesia with lots to do and places to hide for every generation of fun seeker. 64 l FRV Travel


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GITGITGETAWAY

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Left: Light peeks down from the canopy above. Below: Taking a rest in a cave hidden by a waterfall. Right: You invest a lot of faith in ropes when abseiling.

Git Git

Text Chris Le Photos Chris Le & Sayan Gulino

Canyoning

T

here are a lot of adventure tour companies operating in Bali, but calling a lot of these tours ‘adventures’ is very much like calling a McDonald’s burger ‘food’. Yes, it fits the general definition, but for those who know food, it’s nothing more than a cheap imitation. With that thought in mind, canyoning in Bali is like a delicious, three-course, home-cooked meal with lots of fine wine; you put a little work into it, but the results are much more rewarding and you become drunk with a sense of accomplishment.

Ok, so maybe comparing a tour where you leap down miniature cliffs, voluntarily get washed down rapids, and abseil into a waterfall won’t ever be completely accurate, but one thing is absolute, canyoning in Bali is just about as magically adrenaline-inducing as one can get on this island. Canyoning is a sort of hybrid of a variety of adventure sports. Mix in some rock climbing with a little cliff jumping, add a healthy helping of river trekking, sprinkle in some whitewater, and put it on top of an abseiling crust and you have the basis of canyoning.

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Routes normally follow a river where multiple elevations make for a challenging ascent or descent through narrow canyons, making this type of adventure both challenging and extremely scenic. The whole process starts with our guide, a Frenchman by the name of Mika, who pretty much started the whole canyoning business in Bali by himself. He started out by exploring the numerous waterways in Bali’s mountains for a few years. Some were hits, some weren’t so much so, but he kept on hacking through the mountainous jungle trying to find what is now a very impressive and varied line up of tour packages in what has become the Adventure and Spirit Indonesian Team of Canyoning. The company offers a variety of services including tours, training, and group team building excursions at various levels of difficulty. The tour package I was lucky enough to go on was the “Sportive Canyon” trip which was the second most extreme trip on the list. I was honestly pretty excited by all the incredible photos on the website and could hardly contain my enthusiasm for participating in such an insane endeavor as 68 l FRV Travel

canyoning in Bali is just about as magically adrenalineinducing as one can get on this island. putting your life in the hands of a rope as torrents of water rush by. The trip started with an early-morning equipment fitting where we donned all our essential canyoning gear. First was a wetsuit and neoprene booties that fitted into laceup rubber boots. Second, we were given a climbing harness made specially for the rigours of canyon exploration and included a convenient butt flap to protect the derrière. Attached to this gluteus armored harness, was a pair of carabiners and a Petzl Piranha, a figure-eight style rappel kit designed to control decent with a wet rope. There followed some Dyneema gloves, a hydration pack, and a helmet. If you want to bring extra

items, such as a camera, they provide dry bags, but it’s recommended that you double wrap any expensive electronics. With all our gear sorted out, it was a thirty minute drive up north to Git Git in the centre of Bali. I put on my gear and mentally prepared myself to step into the unknown world of canyoning. The trek to the river was brief, and before I knew it, Mika was rigging some rope for a small practice abseil down into the streaming pool below. It was encouraging to practice somewhere small before potentially putting my life on the line. Most encouraging was the rate at which the rope slid through the figure eight; nice and slow so dropping the rope and plunging to my death wasn’t a big reality. That was nice. Once the tour got going, I came to the realization that without the abseiling equipment and the experience of our guide, the places we were traveling through were virtually unreachable. The very thought of being probably one of the only people who could reach these beautiful gorges and canyons made it absolutely tickling. There were some areas where we were surrounded on both sides by steep rock formations that


spewed earthen groundwater onto us. We were so high up that the water had little chance to become contaminated so the water flowing out of the rocks was clear, pure and very drinkable. The path itself involved a smorgasbord of waterfalls, rapids and emerald pools arranged in no particular order. The pools where the water was still, typically below a waterfall, were crystal clear, and when sunlight penetrated the jungle canopy above, turned a dark turquoise that seemed more jewel-like like than liquid. There were points along the route where we would sit perched along the lip of a giant waterfall and as Mika was tending to some complicated rope work, we enjoyed the epic views of the north side of the island before us. Canyoning not only affords a quick rush of adrenaline, it also manages to present a very unique take on Bali’s natural beauty, one rarely seen from that perspective, if ever. Facing page: From abseil to zip line, tonnes and tonnes of falling water, and Mika’s expert handiwork. Below: Taking a breather in the emerald waters.

That being said, some of the abseils were jawdroppingly scary. One involved descending into the path of a massive waterfall, where thousands of pounds of water roared below and the force of gravity and liquid immediately came to the forefront of my mind. Mika advised us to constantly look down and let the force of the water break over our helmets. He told us that some people had let the raw force of the water fall directly onto their chests, which had instantly caused them to flip and lose control. He told us that if we

lost control we were not to panic; he would simply belay us down from his position and out of the path of the raging water. Another ingenious safety measure was the throw bag he deployed when we were swimming downriver in the rapids. He would go first and at the first sign that we were being sucked away by the current, he would toss the line out and pull us in. It was pretty cool. Mika continues to expand Adventure and Spirit by exploring the vast river network that Bali has in its geographic inventory, so his tours are only expanding into unknown territory. When you put on all the gear, you feel like an explorer. Even if you aren’t quite the first person to personally venture into these unreachable gorges, it gives you a warm fuzzy to think that you’re probably one of the very few to enjoy that unadulterated beauty of the island. Most adventure tours can’t say that. FRV

PT. Adventure and Spirit Mas, Ubud, Bali Tel :  +62 361 971 288  www.adventureandspirit.com

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OVERNIGHTPARKHYATTTOKYO

Park Hyatt Tokyo

S

Text by Thomas Jones

tanding tall, proud, and alone, The Park Hyatt Tokyo is the first port of call of many a wellknown international traveller visiting the city. Be they film legends, rock stars, writers, captains of industry or simply those famous for being famous types with small dogs and oversized handbags, there is simply no better address in this high-rise mega city of fashion, light and efficiency. There may be other pretenders to the throne of best hotel, to be sure, but none have the unspoken caché that the Park Hyatt has earned for itself. From the moment a guest walks in and collects the room key on a sterling silver key ring, it is clear that a stay at Park Hyatt Tokyo will be an experience in itself. Taking the top 14 floors of the 52-storey Shinjuku Park Tower, just outside the non-stop, electric neon Bladerunner energies of downtown Shinjuku, it is a place of soaring architecture, with panoramic views of a throbbing metropolis, and interiors reminiscent of a deluxe New York penthouse. Whenever the elevator opens, multiple heads turn to catch a maybe-glimpse of someone rich and famous, before slowly going back to their drinks and conversations. Sometimes they get lucky. With only 178 rooms it is not a big hotel by Asian standards, but this creates an intimacy that elevates its charm. There are three soaring towers of different heights so that nearly every public space and guest room offers its residents a bird’s eye perspective of the city and surrounds. The views of Mt Fuji from the gym has to be one of the most inspiring workout sights of any city, and a late night swim in the blue-lit pool is an exercise in how cool swimming can actually be. Being the city of consumption, guests are spoiled for choice with some of the finest – and most expensive – food and booze in Japan. The New York Grill on floor 54 is a pilgrimage site for wagyu lovers; Girandole brasserie is French flavour like no other; Kozue is their contribution to local cuisine; and the delicatessen or the patisserie will spoil you for breakfast and lunch choices. After five, the Peak Lounge and the NY Bar will propel you forward into the night with a setting sun and city lights accompanying the clinking of ice cubes in your glass. FRV

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Park Hyatt Tokyo Nishi-Shinjuku Tokyo, Japan Tel: +81 3 5322 1234 www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com


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OVERNIGHTTHECLUBHOTEL

The Most Sophisticated Style Comes in Black and White Text by Ve Handojo

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he all-white façade of The Club Hotel by Harry’s Hospitality blocks the corner of fashionable Ann Siang Hill with a bold statement. There is nononsense inside this hot boutique hotel. The past colonial era and the beginning of independent Singapore is rendered in strict black and white and the heritage building from 1900 is now a house for the most stylish travellers. Check In The small lobby gives a speedy service with no hassle. There is an immediate sense of individualism. The friendliness of The Club Hotel is at a good distance from our privacy. Effective and efficient, guests are directed to find their way to the rooms by a flock of black messenger birds on the wall. The elevator is guarded by a contemporary statue of Sir Stamford Raffles.

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The Signature Room The thick and comfortable carpet creates a gentle, homey feeling inside this melting pot of orientalism and minimalism. There is sleep-inducing lighting behind the plush king-sized bed and the TV screen swings two ways, facing both the bed and the living area. Aromatherapy candles are ready to light while the Black and white tiling all over the L-shaped bathroom gives a strong and bewitching visual illusion. Dining The hotel’s Le Chocolat Café serves chocolate, cakes, sandwiches and salads. For lunch, there is Le Tonkin, a restaurant and lounge serving Vietnamese and French cuisine. Ying Yang Rooftop Bar has been the talk of the town as the hottest hangout spot. Dress to the nines.

Surrounding Within walking distance, there is the amazing Shots café, where the espresso is sharp, the tiramisu is excellent, and there is plenty of sake. Cross the street to find treasures in Stevie General Store. In the underground Oakham Market you will find more vintage stuff and get some good bargains. Verdict Without a doubt, The Club Hotel stands out among other design hotels in Singapore, thanks to the talents in Ministry of Design and Jane Yeo design consultants. Straighforward, brave, sexy, smart, and chic at the same time, The Club Hotel should be declared holy ground for young, independent and sophisticated travellers. FRV

The Club Hotel 28 Ann Siang Road Singapore Tel: +65 6808 2188 www.theclub.com.sg


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JAKARTAMORRISSEY

Morrissey A Personality, Not a Place

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Find out who is Ve Handojo’s new alter-ego just around the corner from Jalan Jaksa.

Left: A corner in Klasse business lounge where casual meetings get inspiring.

Above: A classic BMW motorbike with a sidecar in the lobby.

Below: The fenceless Morrissey blends with the neighborhood and extends to it a new atmosphere.

Photos by Ramadhan

M

y old kitchen was being revamped, so I went looking for a place to escape the dust and noise for a couple of nights, and since I still needed to be in the city and have my daily dose of urban living, Morrissey, the new property around the corner of Jakarta’s infamous Jalan Jaksa, instantly came to mind. It was perfect as it’s separated from the busy Jalan Sudirman by a comfortable distance, and situated amidst a lively neighborhood that seemingly never sleeps. But, what is Morrissey? I could answer the question by describing its retro style, enriched with vintage ornaments on display, including a motorcycle sidecar. Or, I could say it’s a serviced apartment with a warm, stylish touch that will make you wish you lived in something similar. I could even say that Morrissey’s units are the FRV Travel l 75


best deal in town with a rate that will separate you from Jalan Jaksa’s usual inhabitants without upsetting your Visa or MasterCard. As it happens, all the answers above are incorrect, and that’s because the question is wrong. I should’ve asked: Who is Morrissey? Being Morrissey means being a straightforward personality with a level of sensitivity that is able to see beyond the needs of others. There is no need for sugar coating what is already essentially good. I discovered this personality when I walked into room 424 and found a sweet welcoming letter along with a bunch of fresh apples. There they were, lying on the dining table with no unnecessary extravagant decoration or wrapping whatsoever. Being Morrissey is being a clean, almost naked design that shows you only the most essential parts. 76 l FRV Travel


Morrissey has 135 units in total and my room 424 itself is one of the thirteen two-storey apartment units. The door opens to a mini-pantry and leads into the living room with a wall-mounted LCD television screen. There is a refrigerator, a microwave, plates, bowls, cooking utensils, wine glasses, silverware, an ironing board, and enough discreet storage space for a long stay. Upstairs is the bedroom and bathroom, wardrobe, and another wall-posted LCD television screen. A huge floor to ceiling glass window welcomes natural lighting while showing the eclectic street below. This has always been one of my favourite parts of the city so I went for a long walk around the neighborhood in the evening. I am not so big on the loud, messy and noisy Jalan Jaksa, but the parallel Jalan Sabang is always cool. There is always a sense of nostalgia along the street with its many long standing stores such as the Duta Suara record store, the old-style Chinese stores, the street side food stalls, and so much more. The new joints by the end of the street are Kopitiam Oey and Sabang 16 with its excellent kaya bread and Vietnamese drip coffee. Back at the hotel, I went up to the sixth floor and enjoyed a cigar by the pool. It faces both sides of the city – the residential on one side, and the skyscrapers in the background on the other. The pool is always inviting, and the cabanas and seatings are good for wasting time. Every now and then, the soundscape reminds you that you are not in Bali, but in the depths of Jakarta, with

the occasional noise coming from the passing thee-wheel Bajaj taxis. If you are here for business the Mac-stuffed workstations in the Klasse business centre on the second floor will make sure that your stay will be as productive as it is relaxing. The meeting rooms are designed to support out-of-the-box thinking and the residents lounge is great for smallscale private functions or quick informal meetings.

Being Morrissey means being a straightforward personality with a level of sensitivity that is able to see beyond the needs of others.

Above: The lounge style meeting rooms is dressed to impress. Facing page. Left: The relaxing and comfortable lobby lounge. Right: Exposed white bricks give texture to the bedroom walls. Below: The pool deck on the sixth floor offers city views.

Morrissey is a personality to inspire and give you new ideas. Being Morrissey is being a smart, unspoiled, and dynamic person who always knows how to navigate his ways and movements. As for me, before I knew it, I had checked out and left only to find that I, myself, had become Morrissey. FRV

Morrissey Jl. KH Wahid Hasyim 70 Menteng, Jakarta Tel: +6221 2993 3333 www.iammorrissey.com FRV Travel l 77


JAKARTARECHEQUE

Pastis R e v i v e d

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Text by Erza S.T. Photos by Ramadhan


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hen FRV Travel first visited Pastis Kitchen and Bar a couple of years ago, we were quite smitten with its beautiful, white classic colonial ambience. Pastis immediately became the city darling that hosted many ladieswho-lunch with some fun happy hours. However, with the passing of time, the Pastis that we loved had some inconsistent moments with some extra challenging service and we were unsure about the survival of the place. However, Pastis’ fate was not final at that point and has managed to make a come back with a new management on board. When the Aston Group took over Kuningan Suites Apartment, they also inherited Pastis. They kept the lovely ambience, hired a new chef and a new service team was brought onboard. It is interesting how the new Chef BJ Pasalbessy decided not to change much on the menu. He instead fixed the taste and made it better. On the appetizer section, we were quite satisfied with the Italian antipasti and Brie salad. The produce that they use is fresh and the dishes use all the right ingredients to whet your appetite. We jumped immediately to the meat section after the starters and were impressed with the chef ’s way of cooking the lamb chops. They arrived with a choice of mashed potatoes, vegetables or rice. You can also choose the sauce to go with it. Allow us to strongly recommend the black pepper sauce; it’s just so finger licking good!

but also his excellent understanding on how to serve the dishes to perfection. Our tenderloin was flawlessly cooked with great presentation too. Those who love Pastis’ original “Nasi Goreng Ijo” (fried green rice) will be happy to know that, not only it is still one of their signature dishes, but has also improved in taste. It has all the right spices that Indonesian fried rice should have, leaving you with a hint of hotness at the end of your palate. We also would like to give a special mention to Chef ’s gnocchi gratinati. If you enjoy freshly made gnocchi with thick and creamy sauce then this dish is definitely not to be missed.

Pastis immediately became the city darling that hosted many ladies-wholunch with some fun happy hours.

It seems that the re-born Pastis has overcome its previous downward inclination and its polished charm is shining through once again. The tastes have strengthened with more authentic Mediterranean flavours in the cooking, which appear to work better then ever and Pastis Kitchen and Bar looks set to keep the standards up for a long time to come. FRV

Also within the meat section, we tried their 180 gram US beef tenderloin with classic mushroom sauce. Again the chef showed us not only his skills

Pastis Kitchen and Bar Aston at Kuningan Suites Jl. Setiabudi Utara Kuningan Jakarta Tel: +622 1526 0260

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