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CONTENTS June - July 2014

FEATURES 032 48 Hours in Hong Kong Will Meyrick wanders the markets and eateries of Hong Kong and has a blast doing so.

056 Grand Hyatt Thomas Jones spends a luxurious weekend in Jakarta’s Grand Hyatt and is suitably impressed.

066 Siam Kempinski Trauts lives the high life in one of Bangkok’s best hotels and lives to tell the tale.

070 Fashion FRV’s photographers and models take a stroll through Bali’s Rimba Resort and Villa Batavia.

102 The Forgotten Highway Thomas Jones takes in some back country travel in New Zealand and revels in its beauty.

108 The Travelling DJ vol 7 Tony Montana parties and travels in Lebanon, the Paris of the East Mediterranean.

Cover FRV Travel:

Model: Herika photo by Glen Krohn

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Restaurant Bookings Essential: +62 361 4737 809 or Jl Petitenget No. 19X Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia

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024 028 030 048 050


052 065 094 100 106

Tirta Nila

14 of the best treats along this rapidly developing and fashionable street of Bali.

Bali’s newest hip venue.

KunstkriNg PalEis Dining like a colonial.

Teppanyaki Time

Drama and good eats at Sumire.

Sweet As

Bali’s Villa Manis.

062 Sri Lanka

Beautiful beaches and swaying palms.

Bali’s Villa Shinta Dewi

054 Rimba

Trauts spends a wonderful night at Bali’s best new resort on the Bukit.

Seminyak luxury.

Stupendous living in Candi Dasa.


Five star hotel life in the big city.

Paku Jawi

Riding buffalo in Sumatra.

A taste of Borneo

096 Penang

Tales from the jungle isle.

A quick tour of the fabled city.


Turtles, ocean and sunshine.

1 4 Events 3 8 Wine 6 4 Overnight 1 1 4 Directory

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036 Petitenget

1 6 Bits & Pieces 4 2 Cheese 6 2 Fashion Scoop 1 3 0 Last Word

110 Bali Artist Rachel Love meets up with Mersuka Dopaza.

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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: www.frvtra ve l.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Senior Graphics Ric ky Afd i P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I ma m, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Gina , Oc hy ( A dmi ni strati o n Dya h, Poojie , Ta ri Co ntri buto rs T homa s Jone s, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Ia n Ne ub a ue r, Ve Ha nd ojo, Ra tih DP. S ubscri pti o n Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 200,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details. Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) L eg al Asso ci ates Nyoma n Ge d e Anta guna SE, SH, MH ACS La w Offic e J l. Mertanadi 88A, Kuta, Bali. Te l: 082145689996 Fine Restaurants and Villas Travel magazine is an independent, b i -mo nthl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne J ul y 15, 2014

FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e shou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y t h o s e of t h e p u b l i s h e r s . F R V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d b y P T M e g a I n d a h ( T: 0 2 1 - 6 1 9 0 5 2 9 w w w. m e g a i n d a h o ff s e t . c o m ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , N a t i o n B o o k s ( T h a i l a n d ) . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

F R V Trav el Mag az ine

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E dit io n 1 1 . 1

J une - J uly ‘ 1 4

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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places Bali is moving so rapidly forward into the future it’s really time to hold on the best you can, jump forward and grab it by the horns, or be left in the wake of its never ceasing development. Or is it? Some people say Bali is going to become so busy that it will become unattractive to foreign visitors and change so much that we can’t recognise it anymore. But like most times in the recent history of this island I believe it will find a natural solution one way or the other. There is a lot of pressure on now though. In the last year we’ve seen massive increases in prices for everything starting with the basics of electricity, water, petrol, wages, and the more expensive dollar putting pressure on everything else. The property market has gone through the roof over the past few years too which is now flowing onto rental prices and especially commercial rentals and in the end, we’ll find most marginal operations going belly up around town. This later strangely enough will turn

into more opportunity and away goes the cycle again. I must admit it is hard to keep up with it sometimes in the developing world. And now look at Thailand. The recent coup there has again put the country into the spotlight and for all the wrong reasons. I was in Bangkok a couple of months ago and one could see that something had to give eventually. The continual stalemate between the opposing factions looked like never finding a solution, which paralysed the country’s progress. Something had to be done and I’m sure it wasn’t easy for anyone implementing that coup. We hope that the latest moves will bring some clarity to the situation there in Thailand. Meanwhile, inside FRV Travel this edition we are back on the road and looking good. Any ideas or thoughts on what we do here at FRV Travel are greatly appreciated. Please send to editor@ FRV CONTRIBUTORS

David Trauts This English correspondent started The Beat magazine many years ago and then the group’s flagship, FRV. This edition he is back in Bangkok at the Siam Kempinski. In Jakarta dining at the very Indonesian Kuntskring Paleis and experiencing the dining and nightlife Bali’s new Jenja has to offer.

Erza S.T. Going for an annual winter trip is like a religion to this operaloving writer. In one-anda-half months, he visited seven cities in Europe, and this edition he was rather impressed with the city of Prague.

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Thomas Jones Thomas headed home to NZ last Summer and got out amongst the beautiful back blocks to experience a slice of untouched country down the Forgotten World Highway, an unforgetable experience. Jakarta and Bali are also on his radar this issue with some fine hotels, villas and restaurants.

Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel writes extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.

Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.

Ian Neubauer Ian is a Sydney-based freelance journalist specializing in adventure travel. He has reported extensively across East Asia and the South Pacific for many publications. He is also the author of two travel novels, Getafix (2004) and Maquis (2006), and an advocate for Topu Honis, an orphanage and women’s shelter in East Timor.



JUNE - JULY 2014

Dragons Ahoy: China

Dance on the Lake: INDONESIA

The Yueyang International Dragon Boat Festival takes

The Lake Sentani Cultural Festival near Jayapura, Papua,

place over a week-long period of cultural performances,

celebrates cultures from the various ethnic groups that

a food festival, motorboat and parachute displays, a

surround the mystifying lake, with traditional dances,

sacrifice to the god Qu Yuan, as well as the fantastic and

various handicrafts displays such as bark painting and

nail-biting, daily dragon boat races, all surrounded by the

highlighted by contests for hair weaving, flute playing, and

beautiful scenery of Hunan Province. June 10 – 14

folk dancing. June 19 – 23

Mountain Jazz: INDONESIA

Culture Time: Bali

High up near Mt Bromo’s volcanic crater rim in a specially-

Bali culture buffs can get their fix at the Bali Arts Festival

built amphitheatre looking back down a lush green valley

in Denpasar, where all manner of dance and music

to the sea is the setting for the Jazz Gunung festival 2014,

performance, handicraft exhibitions and cultural and

which offers two days of electrifying performances in the

commercial activities will be on show to astound locals and

cool open air of the mountains. June 20 - 21

tourists alike. June 11 – July 19

Winter Magic: New Zealand The Queenstown Winter Festival will see tens of thousands

Tour De Singkarak: INDONESIA

Rainforest Festival: Malaysia

Cyclists will be out in force for the 6th Tour de Singkarak

A unique festival that brings together renowned world and

of locals and visitors take to the streets and ski slopes for

which will be taking in 1,250 kms of stunning scenic

indigenous musicians from the interiors of the island of

10 days of non-stop fun to celebrate the start of winter

landscapes from seashore to steep valleys, past rushing

Borneo for three days of music and celebrations while

with loads of on-mountain action, street parties, fireworks,

waterfalls and serene crater lakes of the fascinating land

highlighting the cultures, nature and adventures that are

live concerts and comedy. June 20 – 29

of the Minangkabau in West Sumatra. 7- 15 June

unique to Sarawak. 20 - 22 June

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Tales of Temasek: Singapore Singapore Food Festival is back for the 20th year at the new waterfront venue at The Promontary @ Marina Bay offering all manner of local dishes to the hungry crowds with over 60 stalls featuring iconic dishes like roti prata, curry puff, chicken rice, ayam buah keluak, nasi lemak and many more culinary delights. July 11 – 20

Praise the Litchi: China

Soaring High: China

A Winter’s Read: Australia

Zengcheng has long been known for the quality of

The Jiayuguan Pass International Gliding Festival offers the

The Mildura Writers’ Festival brings together some of

its litchis and shows its respect with the annual Litchi

chance to soar like a bird against the majestic backdrop

Australia’s best writers in an intimate, winter program of

Festival. People come from miles around to taste the

of the Gobi Desert and Qilian Mountains in a weekend

workshops, lectures and discussion forums built upon

delicious fruits and be entertained by song and dance

filled with gliding contests and demonstrations. Flight

the provincial Victorian winter, with late night discussions

performances, sports events, photography exhibitions

training is also available with silver, gold and diamond

around wood fires, showcasing the local and regional

and trade shows. July 1 – 31

flight certificates available. July 15 –18

gourmet food and wine. July 17– 20

Candle Festival: Thailand

Sailing Fast: Thailand

Flying High: Bali

During the rainy season, when monks enter the Buddhist

This is four days of exciting, international-standard

The Balinese are crazy about kites and it all reaches fever

Rains Retreat (Khao Phansa) in Ubon Ratchathani, this

yacht racing off Phuket with plenty of social activities

pitch on Padang Galak Beach in Sanur for this truly global

display of artistic skill and piety is held with intricately

throughout. Now in its tenth year, Cape Panwa Hotel

happening, attracting over 1,200 kites in competition and

carved beeswax candles up to several metres tall which

Phuket Raceweek’s reputation as the fastest-growing

up to 10,000 spectators. Whether it’s airborne art or sheer

are paraded to local temples for all to see. July 18 - 22

regatta in Asia keeps growing. July 16 – 20

indulgence, these Balinese kites constructed by each competing village are a sight to behold. July 26 - 28

FRV Travel l 15



Metis Lounge opens with a very generous party

the new Lounge

Back in the beginning of May, METIS uncovered their new Lounge section of their well-established restaurant on Jalan Batubelig in Bali to invited guests and friends, where each guest was given a small key to try to


unlock a especial door in the hope of winning a prize, a magnum of Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve. It was a gala event with dancers, DJs and a freeflow of drinks and snacks of biblical proportions. Look out for special events at the Lounge over the coming high season.

Mama San, one of award-winning Chef Will Meyrick’s Bali based restaurants, now has an equally glamorous Hong Kong sister. Opened in early last month, Mama San’s kitchen and bar is located in the heart of Hong Kong’s dining precinct at 46 Wyndham Street, Central. The new restaurant admires and adapts to Hong Kong its elder sister’s ambience of edgy colonial times in Shanghai during the 1920s, in a purposefully designed industrial ceiling warehouse. Gaze up to Mama San in all her glory staring down at patrons while dining, and ponder over a travelogue of old style photographs. The restaurant is the fourth venture under Will Meyrick’s helm, with the Bali Mama San, Sarong (recently awarded S. Pellegrino The Best Restaurant in Indonesia Awards as well as a placement in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2014) and the Thai-styled E&O in Jakarta.

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There are many reasons to get over to Sanur on Sundays. Stroll for kilometers along the stunning beach path, go for a drip in the crystal clear waters on white sands, or stop for a snack at the many restaurants and cafes around the area. Now there is one more reason to drop by on Sundays and that’s Regent Bali’s Lobster Sunday Brunch. Australian Chef Chris Patzold, previously from Seminyak’s Axiom and Ku De Ta restaurants and more recently from The Chedi in Chiang Mai Thailand, has created a Sunday Brunch to remember consisting of just about every possible lobster dish imaginable. Large freshly cooked lobster are on the buffet in abundance and also there’s an excellent selection of lobster dishes on the a la carte menu like freshly cooked Garlic Butter and Lime Grilled Lobster, Lobster Pasta, Lobster, Chorizo and Spinach Omelette, and many more helping to make this a very special and healthy brunch. Oysters, cold meats, and other appetizers with a complete selection of desserts are also available and live music from a four piece band just adds the finishing touch. Sunday Brunch at the Layang-Layang Restaurant at Regent Bali includes a freeflow of wine, beer, and soft drinks and all for Rp 650k ++.

Regent Bali’s new Lobster Sunday Brunch offers something new and different.

It’s all about the Lobster

SUNGAI TINGGI A rare find along Bali’s southwest coast, this unique home, comprising a four-bedroom main villa and a charming, self-contained, two-bedroom guest joglo, enjoys 100 metres of private beach frontage amidst a lush tropical landscape bordering Canggu’s verdant rice fields. Respectful of the island’s culture, the villa is beautifully designed combining traditional materials with stunning local artefacts that blend harmoniously with the natural environment. Coupled with the infectious smiles of the warm and friendly staff, and the amazing cuisine prepared by the dedicated in-house chef, it’s no wonder guests are captivated by Sungai Tinggi’s appeal and authenticity.

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a changing of the guard at one of Bali’s dining institutions.

A New Boss for KuDeTa KU DE TA announced the appointment, and promotion, of Juri Menicuccias as General Manager to replace Steve Collinson, who left after nine years of service. Up till now, Juri has overseen the operational and directional responsibilities of KU DE TA and Mejekawi tasting kitchen and laboratory, including management of staff and food and beverage operations, and has been justly rewarded with the top spot, recognition for his dedication to exceptional service and his contribution to the iconic Bali venue. When asked what he hopes diners will leave feeling from their experience at KU DE TA and Mejekawi, his reply is simple and sincere “I would like our customers to feel like they had a fine dining experience, but with the best and most friendly service, like they just had dinner at my house.”



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The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali has welcomed Italian Chef de Cuisine, Alessandro Molini (Alex), to its culinary team. He comes direct from Four Seasons Resort Nevis in the West Indies where he was instrumental in re-establishing their Italian restaurant following a tropical cyclone. Now Chef Alex finds himself on the island of Bali where he is responsible for Prego, a Westin concept restaurant that puts the fun back into Italian dining. This family-friendly venue satisfies appetites with its generous portions of classic pasta dishes, regional specialties and delicious pizzas that represent real value for money. Since his arrival, Chef Alex has been quick to familiarize himself with the availability of local ingredients and has already put his traditional bread making skills to the test. He has also overseen the introduction of an outdoor barbecue to enhance the extensive array of delicacies served at Sunday’s Prego Family Brunch.

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Sarong and Chef Will Meyrick are dedicated to the promotion of Indonesian cuisine culture. Their recent recognition as one of 50 Best Asia’s Restaurants has shone an even brighter international limelight on the food of the archipelago. However it does not stop there, facilitation of communities in the region to produce high quality locally grown products is another of Chef Meyrick’s passions and he has been undertaking indepth research to find the best ingredients during his travels throughout Indonesia. It is Chef Meyrick’s belief that ecologically-friendly farming results in better tasting food, better tasting drinks and supports local farmers sustain opportunities in rural communities. Taking this commitment one step further, Meyrick and his team at Sarong Group are currently working together with small holding of coffee farmers in the Sunda region of West Java, under the supervision of The Klasik Beans Cooperative, led by Pak Eko. The farm lies in Puntang, a mountainous region to the south of the beautiful city of Bandung. Sunda Hejo, the name of the bean, is handcrafted from the ancient Sundanese. The fresh cherry for the coffee is carefully chosen and pulped in small batches. It is fermented overnight and washed clean, then dried on raised beds in bamboo greenhouses. The Arabica coffee has a rich body and is sweet with earthy aromas and stone fruit notes.

From the Farm to the Plate: Introducing Sunda Hejo Coffee Beans

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During the 16th century, coffee was cultivated by the Dutch in mountains of the same area. The first exports were shipped in 1711 from the Sunda Kelapa port, which is now called Tanjung Priok, in Jakarta. The coffee drew international attention due to the superior taste of the Sunda grown blend. The coffee culture slowly took root in the daily life of the Sundanese. By 1930, a small store in a corner of Jalan Banceuy, Bandung, opened a new venture, and it remains there to this day. Witnessing the evolution of coffee in the region, Kopi Aroma – the establishment, is an integral part of Sunda’s coffee history. When Chef Will Meyrick stopped by he was impressed by how Pak Widyapratama, the owner of the store, preserves the authenticity of the shop and keeps everything as it was. The large ancient looking machines and the A-Z process remain precisely as they were when the very first Kopi Aroma opened. The coffee culture of Indonesia has grown and strengthened. Nowadays, it expands across Indonesia’s major cities like Jakarta, Bandung, Medan and Makassar to name just a few. The younger generation of Indonesia are frequent inhabitants of coffee shops and their coffee culture makes up a big part of the urban and creative scene. Spending hours with friends in small – and usually edgy – coffee shops is something that is seen as stylish, linked strongly with indi-fashion, alternative, mainstream and sometimes live music alongside the pervasive technologyof smart phones, social media and chat apps. Coffee culture is a lifestyle choice. These Sundanese coffees and more are now available at Sarong, Bali.


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Restaurant and Club

A one-stop dining and clubbing experience.

Jenja may be better known to the hipper nightlife crowd around Bali as the latest club from the folks at the highly successful Mint Club in Petitenget, but there is also a pleasant surprise awaiting foodies too. David Trauts drops in for a look and taste of what the restaurant has to offer.

Top right: The Club features the best dance music in town. Above left: The long table is the centrepiece of Jenja but other tables are also available. 24 l FRV Travel

Above: 12,000 pieces of teak wood went into making the ceiling a focal point of this new dining space and the stained glass glows day and night.

Jenja restaurant brings a world of flavours to

the table and, just like many facets of life nowadays, it’s all about sharing. The menu is simple and not overwhelming in size with four main sections; salads, teasers, wok works and sharing. The dishes are a mix of Asian, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean and sizes vary from the small teasers to the larger sharing dishes. There are some great flavours from all over the world with highlights like the salad, tempura Japanese tofu and wakame salad (40k), and Mediterranean lamb dumpling with chili tahini oil (50k) and braised pork belly bun with shallot relish and lettuce off the teasers range. These are small tapas type sizes which are ideal for sharing too. From the wok comes dishes like vegetable ratatouille curry with pan-seared barramundi (45/75k) and braised pork belly miso ramen noodle soup with poached egg (65/95k). As you can see, these wok dishes come in small and large sizes indicated by the price. The sharing section offers two large dishes which could also be considered mains if sharing is not your thing. Slow-roasted Australian leg of lamb marinated in coffee, cardaman, dates and with cous cous salad and sautéed mushrooms in a lamb jus (350k), and ginger and prune glazed pork loin with garlic roasted potatoes, bok choy and peanut sauce (150k) are tasty dishes and weighing in at 550 grams each are big enough to share amongst a couple too. The menu is all about taste, textures and sharing, and the same could be said about the design of the space. Designed by architect Rob Sample, there are a variety of elements to be absorbed like first the timber feature in the ceiling. “The ceiling is a kit made of 12,000 teak battens assembled on-site and hoisted into position,” Sample told FRV. Then the large green and opaque glass mosaic tiles on one wall and the stain glass paneled wall facing the street. “The feature wall is inspired by sea snakes we see in Bali coloured from green to white to yellow to blue and black with a red stripe made from 24,000 handmade glass tiles produced from recycled glass bottles,” continued the eco-sensitive architect. Light, colour and warmth exude from all sides, and with the open kitchen with chef Selma Abualia and her team busily preparing dishes, the picture is set for an evening of great food and inspiring surroundings. The second thing you notice when entering Jenja is the long wooden table right down the middle of the dining space. This table sits approximately 30 people and invites guests, whether they like it or not, into the communal spirit of Jenja. There is enough space between the chairs to keep some intimacy, but be prepared for sharing dishes and conversations at the long table. For those who want their own more private space, regular table and chair settings are also available. At first glance Jenja, the restaurant, could be mistaken for a classy entrance to the club downstairs, but make no mistake, it is an excellent dining experience in its own right. On any night Jenja is a one-stop dining and clubbing venue for a great night out when you are in Bali. FRV

Chef Selma is new to Bali and you can read more about her on the next page.

Jenja Jl. Nakula Barat #18 Town Square. Tel: +62 (0)361-846-9077 FRV Travel l 25


Chicken Fateh

Home-style Cooking It is Chef Selma Abualia’s first time working in Bali. She first learnt cooking at home growing up in Jordan and other parts of the Middle East. After finishing a Spanish and English degree she decided that wasn’t really for her and started a culinary course. Straight after finishing the course and only having one internship in a restaurant until that point she was convinced to enter the Top Chef Middle East TV competition in 2012, which she then went on to win. That propelled her into celebrity chef status overnight and landed her dining events in the Amman Grand Hyatt and short stints in Attica-run restaurants around the Middle East. When she decided to find a position outside of the Middle East she was offered the Jenja position in Bali. “The Middle Eastern parts of the Jenja menu are mainly a rustic homestyle. They are dishes that you find in someone’s home,” she says. The dish she is holding and featured as this edition’s recipe is one of those home-style dishes and incredibly tasty. I know, I tried it. It is also part of the new menu just released at Jenja. FRV 26 l FRV Travel

1 chicken cleaned, marinated, roasted, shredded 30g garlic chopped 20g thyme chopped Salt Black pepper 10g lemon juice 50g olive oil 50g butter cold cubes 800g yoghurt 20g Italian parsley 4g Sumac 1/2 a pita bread cut into triangles and deep-fried 80g chickpeas washed, peeled 50g almond flakes toasted golden brown

Cooking method: Wash and clean the chicken. Pat dry with paper towel. In a bowl mix 20 grams garlic, thyme, salt, pepper, lemon juice, olive oil and butter cubes. Now rub the chicken with the marinade, placing the butter cubes inside the skin. Place chicken in a roasting pan with a little water, cover with aluminum foil and roast for 50 minutes at 200 degrees Celsius. Remove from the oven, allow to cool. Wearing gloves debone and shred chicken. For the yoghurt sauce, in a bowl combine yoghurt, half of parsley leaves chopped, sumac, chopped garlic, salt, pepper and olive oil. Stir well and set aside. Deep-fry or bake pita bread until golden brown. To assemble, place 3 spoons of shredded chicken in a bowl. Pour the yoghurt sauce on top. Then scatter the chickpeas and almond flakes. Arrange the crispy pita around the sides, and garnish with parsley leaves and olive oil.

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FRV Travel 11.1  

Fashion Restaurant and Villas | Bali & Southeast Asian Style

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