Issue #1, Spring 2010 UT $4.50 ET $5.00
New Talent: Fashionâ€™s Future Aliquis 8, 2008
Welcome to FRV Dear Reader,
I’m extremely proud to introduce the first issue of FRV Magazine. The magazine is a completely free magazine and I must firstly thank anyone who has helped put this issue together. Everyone who’s contributed have given up their time to put something together. This has been an exciting journey - from the day I began working on the blog. Now, we have a full magazine, full of our thoughts, opinions and ideas. This is all about being able to show fashion, showcase new talent, and create some exposure to those who deserve it. I have asked some bloggers to take part in the magazine. There has been a lot of debate lately over the blogger vs. journalist issue, and I think this was the perfect way to bridge the gap. I am a blogger turned journalist, turned editor. Anything is possible, and we should welcome everyone who wants to try their hand at writing - via paper or electronic form. I was recently interviewed by a fellow blogger, who asked what I thought of the transition to electronic from paper, and I responded that it was ultimately so exciting - to discover a new blog is quite like reading an unfinished book, because every time you revisit it, there is a new page added to that blog’s story. The magazine was created for you, please enjoy it. Pamela Kingston EDITOR
CONTRIBUTORS Editor: Pamela Kingston Contributing writers: Pamela Kingston, Michael Kowalinski, Sarah Khan, Emme Hightower. Photography work: Geoffrey Chuah Stylist: Samantha Denise Special Thanks: Natascha Stolle, Katie Gallagher, Zakary Alexander le Stele, Simone MonĂ¨. Cover shot: Cristiano Miretti
contents This Season’s Best Accessories
FRESH FACE: KATE GALLAGHER
Fashion People Don’t Like Cameras - a look at R.J. Cutler’s The September Issue
The Ultimate Question: the writer vs the blogger
What do you keep hoarded in your make-up bag?
Alexander Wang: fashion’s wonder boy
How to wear: This season’s playsuits
slick 70’s style hair in an instant
Natascha Stolle talks fashion and influences
of n r etu R e Th ck i t s Lip im en D y it o b r w ea Co w to w
Summer Brights Some of this season’s biggest and brightest pieces - wear with washedout denim, sunglasses and a mojito for the perfect Summer outfit.
This Page: JIL SANDER, England cotton-blend trench €1,340 MARC BY MARC JACOBS, Striped silk bustier top €395 LANVIN, Patent-leather ballerina flats €330 JIMMY CHOO, Quiet patent-leather pumps €495
This Page: TORY BURCH, Wrap Up leather sandals €325 HALSTON HERITAGE, Asymmetric silk-satin top €273.41 NANCY GONZALEZ, Small crocodile clutch €1,245 ACNE, Sensational silk-chiffon shorts €100 RETROSUN, Vintage Paloma Picasso sunglasses €180.03
This Page: MATTHEW WILLIAMSON, Twill bubble skirt €440 BOTTEGA VENETA, Oversized cotton-blend dress €1,350 MARC BY MARC JACOBS, Handwritten script bangles €205 DKNY, Stamped leather clutch €155.20 LANVIN, Glass pearl grosgrain necklace €409.72
Whats In Your Make-up Bag?
I always find myself using the same few products time and time again - the classics. These are essentially, the most important things I have in my make-up bag, although they’re certainly not the only things in there. GI VE NC Ey H eb row Y Sh ow Po wd ery Ey eb row Pe nc il
CHANEL Cils A Cils - #20 Brun 6g/0.21oz
KissKiss Lipstick - #520 Red Booster 3.5g/0.12oz
MARC BY MARC JACOBS Animal print wash bag
Meteorites Perles Light Diffusing Perfecting Primer 30ml/1oz
I know that every once and a while, I’ll walk passed a make-up stand that has this seasons orange lipstick or deep red eyeshadow and think “wow, this is so Galliano” and I’ll end up buying it, and it will rot at the bottom of my make-up bag, because lets face it - sometimes makeup just isn’t practical - especially when it comes to gaudy colours/glitter/face tattoos!
Teamed with a slick of eyeliner, this can never really look dated. Best other beauty buys? A neutral lipgloss, bronzer, eyebrow pencil and white eyeliner all top my list - these all help to create a fresh, dewy look, which is perfect for everyday wear while not looking like you’ve put too much effort, which is always important too. Effortless classic chic - perfect for teaming with your minimal Celine trench come Winter.
Slant Powder Brush
Everyone has at least a few classics that they have in their make-up bag - the smart necessities that will always give you a glamorous glow when your in a rush. I always opt for a slick of mascara and a quick eyebrow pencilling - if in need of a quick sprucing.
Foundation is key - getting that glow right can make or break (sometimes out) how your complexion looks. Experiment with different types - liquid, mineral, powder - you name it, I’ve tried it - and find out what works best for you. Mascara and Liquid eyeliner are two of my other top essentials - I like to go for a bold black mascara, even when I know I shouldn’t, I love dramatic eyes.
Classic minimalism was what was on the cards for Autumn/Winter - but does your make-up bag reflect season trends, or classics? Are you a mascara and lipgloss girl? Or a brow gel and purple lashes lady?
He was 18 when he moved to New York to follow his dream of creating his own clothing line - he studied design at Parsons and also interned at Teen Vogue. After just one year he launched his own collection of soft, masculine sweaters which made the fashion crowd everywhere stand to attention - his tailoring was excellent and the design, well quite simple, but very appealing - a move towards minimal, classic pieces helped the success of the sweater along. Wang is in the midst of expansion - he now has a T collection which extends to both men and women, and he has also moved into creating menswear as part of his mainline label too recently. It is clear why he is so popular - his grungy approach to fashion has become model’s signature off duty style - from army jackets to washed out jeans, Wang has managed to bring new life, structure and tailoring to pieces which would, before be considered as passé.
Fashion’s latest wonder boy is taking the design world by storm. Alexander Wang appeals to the masses - from the cool downtown girls who end up on the Sartorialist, to the model sitting backstage at the show, hugging his clothes tight, wishing she could keep it. Wang is special in many ways he came along at a time when fashion needed a new, powerful injection of youth and he did just that. From grungy 90’s inspired looks to sexy mini-dresses, he knows what the fashion crowd wants and he delivers it with a skilled craftsmanship and a price tag which makes you feel exclusive when you finally save up enough to bag a pair of his lacy boots or one his studded Rocco bags, which let’s face it, are the new IT bag.
There may be a queue for his leopard print wedges - and his stand-out bags might be on the arm of every celebrity in Hollywood, but Wang will not just continue to churn out similar designs. His Autumn/Winter 2010 collection showed his maturing skills and new ideas being born, which although were slightly rough, certainly had big potential. Wang is a once off creative, and someone who will continue to lead fashion for many years to come. He is a force behind the future and a reassuring nod to anyone worried about fashion’s future outlook.
Fashion, much like the truth, can benefit from creative embellishments. Four major detailing trends are emerging or continuing into this season: beading, embroidery, epaulets, and sequins. Designers are proving they arenâ€™t afraid to ignore the shift to minimalism by adorning their lines with such ornaments, taking basic style ideas and enhancing the beauty while creating signatures. There is a sense of luxury associated with detailing and embellishments. The appealing exclusivity and technical execution of haute couture seems less dauntingly elusive with designers appropriating a similar aesthetic to ready-to-wear collections. Oscar de la Renta-$890
One label that has become synonymous with exquisite embellishments is Marchesa. Georgina Chapman and Keren Craigâ€™s romantic gowns showcase the labelâ€™s emphasis on meticulous hand beading and embroidery. Even the flirty frocks of the secondary line, Notte by Marchesa, exhibit this rich detailing. Marchesa gown
Given the sense of throwback haute couture luxury, it’s no coincidence that Marchesa is a celebrity darling. Of course Marchesa isn’t the only label for spectacular beading and embroidery. Look no further than Oscar de la Renta for a gorgeous embroidered blouse or Alexander McQueen for a nontraditional tuxedo jacket detailed with shocking blue beading. Other designers including Proenza Schouler, Milly, Temperly London, Matthew Williamson, Anna Sui, Juicy Couture, and Haute Hippie are also embracing this trend. Much like Marchesa, Balmain has seen embellishments become part of its signature. Thanks to designer Christophe Decarnin shoulder padded and epaulet-heavy military jackets and dresses, the emphasized shoulder revitalized this French powerhouse while ushering in the current military trend
and proving that shoulders could be sexy, feminine, and yet androgynous all at the same time. Although, the notoriously expensive line isn’t the only way to get a fringed or chained epaulet fix. Retailers like H&M are featuring the military trend this season. Want more versatility? Check out Falconiere and illuminate more than one outfit with their detached epaulet.
Balmain Spring/Summer 2010
ATTENTION TO DETAILS
Balmain $6,450 Alexander McQueen jacket-$2,995
ATTENTION TO DETAILS Sequins have long been employed to enhance clothing and accessories, bringing glamour to even the most elemental fashion. Alice + Olivia and Diane Von Furstenberg are taking basic t-shirt from functional to fabulous with sequin detailing. Designers are also using sequins to add color, texture, and dimension to their collections. The metallic silver spray of sequins on a 3.1 Philip Lim creation juxtaposes the soft fabric and swishing pleats of the dress. The muted olive-tone crepe-silk of a Stella McCartney design gets a sunburst of color from its sequin flowers. Labels like Preen are also incorporating sequins into their designs, coupling it with a huge trend for fall 2010: lace. 3.1 Philip Lim sequined dress Alice + Olivia sequined top- $330
Diane Von Furstenberg sequin t-shirt-$225 Stella McCartney-$3,695
ATTENTION TO DETAILS Clothing isn’t the only thing getting the embellishment treatment. Christian Louboutin heels sparkle with diamante, Louis Mariette headbands twinkle with swarovski crystals, and Giuseppe Zanotti suede clutch shimmers with beading. - EMME HIGHTOWER
Christian Louboutin sandals-$1,995
Bijoux Heart hairband €686.56
Louis Mariette Headband-$280
Giuseppe Zanotti bead clutch-$1,360
Givenchy embroidered boots €1,190
“Fashion People Hate Cameras.” Paradoxical as this comment may seem, these were director RJ Cutler’s exact words about the filming of his critically acclaimed documentary, The September Issue. The first documentary about the ins and outs of a major fashion magazine in creating its most important monthly issue, The September Issue has become a favorite among fashionistas for the way it portrays the internal struggles that go on at Vogue US. Anyone in the fashion industry knows Anna Wintour, the editor of Vogue US, as one of the most powerful and influential women in fashion today. Much of the documentary’s entertainment comes from seeing Wintour casually rejecting, insulting, and ignoring the pitches of her co-workers – or shall we call them subordinates – whose jobs essentially boil down to making this Red Queen of fashion happy. But what really drives the drama in right hand woman, creative director with Wintour for over twenty years, misinterpreted as bitchiness – in a
this movie is the dynamic between Wintour and her Grace Coddington. Coddington, who has been dealing knows how to handle the editor’s decisiveness – often way that no one else in the office can.
Now if fashion people hate cameras, how did RJ Cutler manage to get all of this on film? Making a documentary, especially one like The September Issue, can be tricky business. While fashion people may spend their days on the sets of photoshoots, it’s another matter entirely when they themselves are the focus of the camera’s lens. It was a wonder that Cutler was even able to capture the relationship between Grace Coddington and Anna Wintour. According to Cutler, Coddington vehemently declared that she would not be a part of the documentary when she saw the cameras around the Vogue office for the first time. It took nearly a year for the director to gain her trust.
Wintour herself could have been, Cutler said, “an easy target.” The September Issue could have been a revealing mockery of Anna’s power and status in the fashion industry, which would have easily destroyed her reputation. But according to Cutler, trust was the key to getting the story he wanted. “It really is about being who you say you are,” he said. His intentions were not to bash Anna or Grace in the first place,
ANNA WINTOUR & GRACE CODDINGTON
But regardless of how stubborn Coddington may be, Wintour, as the editor in chief, always gets the last say in what goes to print. What keeps viewers watching the movie is seeing the dejected frustration in Grace when Anna unapologetically cuts her best work from being printed in the issue. It’s a relationship that mostly everyone can relate to, Cutler said.
and it was important to build a basis of trust on that notion between him and the office. As the months of filming went on, the dynamic between Coddington and Wintour became apparent. The relationship between the romantic, idealistic stylist and decisive, practical editor was something that no one had seen before – but definitely one that everyone can can relate to, Cutler said. Grace is just as influential in the fashion industry as Wintour; one editor at Vogue remarked to Cutler that when Grace gives up her position at the
magazine, the whole of the fashion world will change. But it was her tenuous relationship with Wintour that became the crux of the movie. Another stunning moment in the movie was the interview with Wintour in which she remarks on the way her family members – many of whom also work in print media – react to her profession.
“They are very amused by what I do,” Wintour said in the movie. I’m sure most other fashionistas wondered how Cutler was able to keep that scene in the movie and keep his head at the same time! It seems that he got the Ice Queen of fashion to thaw out a little bit, if only for the sake of the documentary. Sarah Khan
This Seasonâ€™s Best Accessories From Rick Owens to Miu Miu - make a splash with colourful, bold accessories.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM Classic Bralette bra €124.16
LANVIN Flower-embellished necklace €825.64
3.1 PHILLIP LIM Cheeky silk-blend briefs €105.53
PAUL & JOE Stainless steel tiger watch €595.95
MULBERRY Heart Zip leather purse €100
MIU MIU Bird-print satin wallet €329.01
CHLOÉ Python bow belt €395
MARNI Round-frame acetate sunglasses €310.39
NANCY GONZALEZ Crocodile iPhone case €310 ALEXANDER WANG Brenda chain bag €831.84 RICK OWENS Black leather gladiator boots €1,148.45 FENDI Acrylic studded cuff €403.51
How did you find London Fashion Week this year? Any particular highlights that stood out to you? It was really hectic for me this season because I was designing 3 collections at once (my own label, b store, and a capsule range for asos)! The highlight was the bstore presentation for fashion week. I was kind of anonymous at the actual even as not everyone knew it was me who designed the womenwear collection, so when I overheard people react really positively and say that they loved this or that, I knew they meant it and I was really proud.
You grew up in Hawaii and Virginia - do you derive inspiration from either of these places when creating your designs? Yes, I love the simplicity of Hawaiian dressing and I think it informs the way I dress. Simple, loose, easy shapes. And in virginia there is the real east coast preppy buttoned up style which I also adore, so I think it’s fair to say that my style is a combination of the two mixed with an english messy eccentricity.
What were the challenges of setting up your own label? Money. The challenge is always getting enough money to get things done how you want, rather that how you can afford. It’s soul destroying...
If you could dress anyone in the world, who would it be and why? I love Georgia Jagger, I can’t take my eyes off her whenever I see a photo of her. I would love to dress her.
You studied English Literature before turning your hand to fashion. Are you happy with the change in direction that fashion brought into your life?
Natascha Stolle -
Fashion’s freshest face talks fashion, influences and being mistaken for a hobo in Sainsbury’s. I am, but I was always interested in fashion, even when I was doing my BA in English. I worked in the costume shop of the drama department making costumes for the university plays. Fashion wasn’t really an option for me in Charlottesville and the drama department was as close as I could get. I had to come to London to fulfill my dream.
What do you like to wear on a typical day? I’m actually a complete slob when I go to the studio, I think some of my interns are horrified when they first meet me. I was even shadowed by the security guard at my local Sainsbury’s recently because I’m sure he thought I was a homeless person. But when I go out, I always wear super high shoes and lipstick, so it kind of evens out in the end.
Do you believe that fashion helps shape a persons personality or their personality shapes their fashion choices? If someone’s personality is defined by what they wear, then I don’t think they have much of a personality in the first place. What you choose to wear should come from your personality, not vice versa.
What is your favourite part of the design process? My favorite part is the beginning of the design process, before people start telling you why you can’t have what you want because of money or time or minimum quantities, or all of the above. At the beginning, the ideas are pure and everything is still possible and beautiful. It’s a constant exercise in compromise fighting to get the designs actually made on a small budget and with a small team.
Do you have a signature design? Slouchy tailoring and quirky prints. I do a version of an applique crocodile print each season, and also a googly eye print I’ve done a lot.
What is the most rewarding aspect of being a fashion designer? I love the people I get to work with and the freedom that comes with working with people who are your friends. I don’t know many jobs where we could get away with the kind of things we say in our studio, pure filth.
Any regrets so far? I regret not being born a rich kid. What lies ahead for the Natascha Stolle label and for yourself as a designer? Hopefully weekends off! Pamela Kingston
How to wear this season’s playsuits Topshop Acid Wash Playsuit £35.00
Still unsure how to wear a playsuit? Here is four different playsuit outfits, complete with shoes and accessories, provided to inspire your playful side. Denim is a huge trend this season, so why not wear it as a playsuit? Play the grungey card with the look, add some chunky, holey knitwear and some rock star heels, as well as some sunglasses to finish the look. Take your que from Marc Jacobs and inject some sunshine with brights orange and blue (right). Keep accessories to a minimal and let the colours do the talking. You could do worse then copycat Chloe’s minimal playsuit, just add heels and a chunky bracelet for the ultimate statement. The final look shows off denim and florals together to create a great balance. Go feminine with the playsuit, and add a touch of masculinity for an updated look.
Jil Sander D-frame acetate sunglasses €291.64
Hervé Léger Frida suede and cork sandals €709
Alexander Wang Lattice bobble oversized sweater €639.41
Giuseppe Zanotti Suede peep-toe boots €515
Lanvin Happy snakeskin shoulder bag €1,350
MARC BY MARC JACOBS Stara silk-satin playsuit €325
Topshop Nails in Flash £5.00
Lanvin Amalia leather shoulder bag €1,275
Chloé Linen zip-front playsuit €1,390.55
Topshop HOSANNA Macrame Sandals £30.00
Yves Saint Laurent Entrelacs gold-plated cuff €658.03
Denim Biker Jacket
Chelsea scallop jumpsuit €249.11
Miu Miu Canvas and leather tote €870
CHANEL Aqualumiere Gloss Alexander Wang
# 67 Diamond Rose 6ml/0.2oz
Trish leather wedge mules
FRV Magazine is Looking for contributors. We aim to show off the best new talent, which means everything from models, designers, artists, reporters, writers and photographers. If youâ€™d like to get involved, or submit some work to the magazine, simply get in touch with us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
A Mixed bag Of Summer Loves
For this Summer inspired collage, I’ve gone for some of the best, stand-out pieces of the season. Ok, so they probably all shouldn’t be worn in one go, but these are some of the most interesting, quirky pieces available at the moment that have caught my eye. I’m really in love with Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler this season, so have included pieces from both designers. I love Wang’s statement shoes and bags and have included one of each (leopard print shoes, black and white bag). I’m also really excited by statement sunglasses, so have included four of my favourite pairs for summer, including sunnies by Louis Vuitton and Alexander Wang.
I especially like the round pair of sunglasses by Erdem - although they might not suit my face, they will add a quirky edge to a simple outfit. The denim playsuit is there to meet this season’s biggest trend criteria - denim of course. The two brooches by YAZBUKEY (one of Karl Lagerfeld, one of David Bowie) are so kitsch and adorable, and will make any look pop. Lanvin’s accessories are simply jaw-dropping this season, so I’ve added a ribbon necklace and a tan coloured clutch. My selection is all about statement, colour and confidence to be bold with your clothing. Individuality is a must. Pamela Kingston
Katie graduated from Rhode Island School of Design. She has since spent time at Anna Sui and THREEASFOUR. She also runs her own label, Katie Gallagher. She now lives in NYC. Michael Kowalinski talks to the upcoming designer.
Your designs are a mixture of the sc-fi with the ultra feminine, combined with what appear to be elements of the past done in a modern way. How did this sensibility come to you?
INTERVIEW WITH KATIE GALLAGHER
serves the best pickle plates ever. They are full of pickled cucumbers, radishes, beets, and carrots that you can dip in mustard. Also, we’re treating a really new kind of leather right now. But then, pickle plates.
Everything I create comes from what I draw. I draw lots of line drawings to develop my ideas and then from there, try to create them three-dimensionally the best I can! I generally Whose head would you like to spend a day in? design things that I would want to be wearing I don’t care about that stuff. I’m fine in my own head. If I did have to pick a head in myself. general, I’d say a focused artisan living in a far off country. Someone I don’t know yet, but is doing some special craft very perfectly. The clothes are mature and have a singular vision. How do you feel you’re growing as a designer? What did you take away from your apprenticeship at Anna Sui?
I’m growing in a bunch of different ways; there is so much to learn when you’re dealThis was my first experience with the indusing with this field from a designer’s perspectry itself here in NYC. I saw a lot during my tive. Since I do most everything myself right time with Anna, including the process she uses for sample making, fabric sourcing, her now, I am forced to learn how to make better showroom set up, etc. There’s a ton to absorb. designs, and then pattern them properly and She is a special designer because everything then figure out the best and right way to sew remains pretty much in her hands. She creates them. Also deal with buyers, production, PR, etc, etc. even casting my own models! what she loves and it’s very evident everywhere in her spaces. The spring collection was all black, a hard aesthetic Your references are always fantastical and mysterious. mixed with your signature feminine touches. For fall, you featured colour. How will the label’s look evolve? What was your design inspiration for Fall 2010? It all began with a snowy, drippy landscape painting I did; initially to help me develop the color palette that I was imagining for the season. What is exciting you right now? German pickle plates. There is a German bar right by my apartment in Chinatown that-
That will depend on the concept for each season. I do like all monochromatic looks. Instead of mixing color, I am more interested in mixing texture and creating secrets in each garment rather than dealing with prints or color combinations.
INTERVIEW WITH KATIE GALLAGHER
Besides the financial strain, what has been your biggest obstacle as a young designer in New York? Just that. Honestly, it’s a problem and it creates limitations. Until its resolved there will be restrictions for the collections and the things I can produce. What is femininity to you? Ha! Femininity was my “concentration” in my senior year of high school AP studio art class. I guess I never really figured it out. You’ve said you want to accentuate the female form with your designs. What is it about the female form that most interests you? It’s our natural form. Why not make clothes
that look right on it.
How does seeing the clothes through the eyes of an artist influence their design? Clothing can be constructed more purpose in general, clothing should essentially act as a medium for an idea.
What’s next for Katie Gallagher? SS11. I’m already sketching it out!!
The Return of Lipstick A mouth full of lipstick is a force to be reckoned with: teamed with bouncy blonde curls and some eye-stinging red lipstick, you are transformed into a sexy goddess. Your boss is suddenly struck with crippling fear, that guy suddenly gives you the eyes, and you can pull off that Lanvin cardigan that you’ve hidden in shame, because you never felt like you could wear it.
Lipstick is making a comeback. We are (so I’ve heard at least) in the midst of a depressing recession, which means it’s time to pack away the bling and return to classic glamour. That of course means a return to the lipstick too. A powerful device - lipstick makes the wearer instantly empowered, and everyone surrounding you stands to attention. Those perfectly smooth, matt lips, covered in a deep smooth red. Lipstick sales have increased since the recession hit. Women are reverting back to the classics, the power pieces, that are feminine, yet commanding.
Tom Ford has led the lippie revolution, with the release of him long awaited lipstick collection. The perfectly packaged, crafted bullets are ready to be artfully placed onto your puckered up pout. The imprinted TF makes it look almost edible.
Lipstick isn’t just another make-up item. It has a history, a classiness attached that other make-up doesn’t quite have. The moment you put it on your lips, you are transformed into something else. An elegant movie version of yourself that could start your own business and become successful in a flash - which is the solution to getting out of this whole recession thing anyway. Pamela Kingston
Denim - best known as for it’s durability and easy-to- wear quality - is having a bit of a moment. The material has been reinvented for Spring/Summer this year, and everything goes, even a double dose. Cowboy chic, as seen at D&G is one of the best and easiest ways to rock this trend. Start off with a simple pair of denim cut-offs and simply add cowboy boots, with a lacy white top or, as D&G have done, a denim corset.
There is so much denim to choose from this season, including shoes - so this trend can be easily adapted into your wardrobe. When in doubt, go with well fitting denim jeans in a stand out shade.
Chloe Spring/Summer 2010
Denim gets an 80’s revamp by Swedish label Acne for Summer.Try acid washes and high-waisted to get this vintage
look, and add a leather element to take it up a notch. One of my favourite 80’s inspired piece for Summer is an acid wash cropped denim jacket. These look great worn casually over a simple tee, and can be teamed with darker denim without it looking like a denim overdose.
D&g Spring/Summer 2010
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI CHLOÉ Skinny denim jeans €308
Denim ankle cuff sandals €490.42
COWBOY DENIM ACNE
D&g Spring/Summer 2010
Cut-off denim shorts
Slouchy leather shoulder bag
Marc by marc jacobs spring/summer 2010
BALMAIN Faded denim jacket €2,673
SEE BY CHLOÉ Chambray playsuit €385
DSQUARED2 sPring/Summer 2010
CITIZENS OF HUMANITY
Graceland Hesher denim vest
Denim shirt €180.03
MOU Seagrass Circled tall denim boots €192.44
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON Chambray cotton jumpsuit €620
ACNE Skin zip-back skinny jeans €160
COLOUR TRENDS Chanel’s Nouvelle Vague nail polish is leading the colour revolution this season when it comes it cosmetics. Also buzzed up is Dior’s lace inspired collection which features real lace pieces and comes in vintage inspired silver casing. Topshop’s makeup line has also just been released in Europe, which means loads of trend inspired colours at bargain prices - from mink nails to golden highlighters, their new cosmetics line captures the latest beauty buzz perfectly.
CHANEL Precision Gentle Eye Make Up Remover 100ml/3.3oz CHANEL LAURA MERCIER
Soleil Tan De Chanel Bronzing Makeup Base 30g/1oz
Eye Brow Pencil - Brunette
DIOR Poudrier Dentelle Peach Lace
COLOUR TRENDS CHANEL Nouvelle Vague Le Verns Nail Colour #527
Skin Tonic Stretch Cream Foundation
Bronzing Powder Brush
SPF 25 - # 502 Lift Champagne 30ml/1oz
CHANEL 4 Fleurs De Chanel ( Limited Edition ) - Feeries
SISLEY Mascara Ultra Facil # 11 Noir 8g/0.28oz
FRAGILE VISION Photographer - Geoffrey Chuah/www.gcphotography.net Stylist - Samantha Denise/www.samanthadenise.com Make-up and manicure - Vanessa Collins/www.vanessa-collins.com Hair - Rachael Hyde@muse Model - Chelsea Donalson@viviens
OPPOSITE: STRUMMER leather dress Stylistâ€™s own bangles THIS PAGE: MATICEVSKI dress Shoes from pelle.com.au
THIS PAGE: COUNTRY ROAD singlet AMERICAN APPAREL transparent skinny trousers shoes as before OPPOSITE: STRUMMER organza shirt Stylistâ€™s own earrings
PROVOCATOR playsuit ZARA wedges COUNTRY ROAD belt OPPOSITE PAGE: SAME AS BEFORE
Is Fashion in a Depression? As we continue to mourn the presence of the extroverted designer Alexander McQueen, who tragically took his life earlier this year, fashion is for once at a loss for words. Alexander’s death has left a bitter taste in the mouth of all those who think of fashion as merely just fun. It’s a reminder that fashion can be sometimes truly serious.
McQueen is not the only member of the fashion industry who has recently passed away. In the last few weeks, two different stories of models trying to take their own lives has come to the attention of the fashion industry. Firstly, Ambrose Olsen, a male model who modelled for one of Armani’s well known campaigns commit suicide
in New York. Earlier on this week, French model Noemie Lenoir attempted suicide but was later resuscitated. Fashion, like any other job, can have it’s pressures. The pressure to succeed is almost palpable within the industry, as competition is fierce, between models, designers, and even people who just work in the woodwork of all the hustle and bustle - those who just want a promotion or want to be recognised.
Even Alexander McQueen, who, on the surface appeared to have it all - an internationally renowned label, a successful concession line, and an unstoppable creative genius, underneath felt troubled.
reminder, without that positively available to override the negative thoughts, we can all suffer, and sink deep into the black. Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel Resort collection is one such example of a designer hoping to make fashion fun, and to take the edge off of fashion’s black cloud. The show, which was held on one beautiful street in St Tropez was quite a spectical - speedboats and motorbikes were utilized to create an element of excitement, a sort of cinematic performance, that left the viewer feeling upbeat and positive.
With such great pressure, the industry must find relief. In some ways it has, as deThis is what we need signers are continuing to put a new emphaat present - something sis on the fun of their creations, rather then sweet to make us feel having a sombre message. optimistic about fashion’s future. We can There is much need to celebrate the artistic count of designers like Lagerfeld to just know creativity of the designers - to make them feel hopeful and positive about their future what is needed and - not only so we can take the edge off their to produce something that is perfect for that constant pressure, but so that fashion can be a truly enjoyable experience for everymoment in time. one, from the designer to the wearer. Like anything in life, when we feel at our lowest, we need to be reminded that the future is still waiting for us, and that our moment hasn’t passed us by. Without this
We will never forget McQueen, but we can learn from him and celebrate his extraordinary ability to design something magical, unexpected and pure.
New Young Pony Club - The Optimist Release date: 4th May 2010 New Young Pony Club’s debut album was so infectious, that no one believed they could top it. There new album, The Optimist, is very similar to their previous album. It has the same hook, the same rhythm - in fact, it’s not very different at all. There is a few slight changes to instruments and beats - but it’s still recognisably NYPC. This new album is a solid release by the band. Lead singer, Tahita Bulmer provides the usual honey sweet, silky smooth vocals, just as flawlessly as before, while the rest of the band spins the usual din on their machinery. Still, it’s catchy, although slightly emotionless, but who cares - it’s poppy and fresh.
Marina & The Diamonds - The Family Jewels Release date: 25th May 2010 Marina is an exceptional songstress. She sounds a bit like Enya, Gwen Stefani and probably a bit of Britney Spears. This is a well composed, though slightly immaturely written album - but you can’t complain, because it’s clearly just her own expression, which is admirable. As for the sound - it is a mix of instrumental with the occasional pop-ish drum. This combines stunningly with Marina’s Vocals however, so the end result is no where near stale. The stand out tracks include “Numb” and “Hermit The Frog”, as well as “Obsessions”. Marina is a fresh face, and this is raw, original, fun, thought provoking, and emotive.
Laura Marling’s debut album Alas I Cannot Swim was startling mature, poignant and unexpected. Her second album, titled I Speak Because I Can, shows how Laura is developing musically. It shows a whole new level of maturity as her musical style changes into something almost Bob Dylanesque, although she holds onto that vulnerability which what makes her special in the first place. This is possibly slightly harder to get into then her first album, but there is certainly some gems, such as Blackberry Stone and Hope In The Air. We have yet to see the best of Laura, and her third album will prove to be even more refined, crafted and emotionally jerking then this one.
The single from the album, Devil’s Spoke utilizes some new background instruments and shows Laura’s singing techniques vary somewhat. This was far from my favourite song on the album - Laura is at her best with a simple guitar and her thoughs, as you will hear in Rambling Man and my personal favourite, Blackberry Stone. Laura is truly exceptional. She failed English while at school, (sometimes the educational system really fails!) but somehow manages to write such rich, inspired lyrics. Her classic voice will deem her one of this millennium’s most prominent singer/songwriters.
At Hiding The Hideout Out Out in the midst of a dank and dusty ghosttown, the only sound around is someone elseâ€™s footsteps. The leaves rustle, as the temperature drops. This is the perfect place to hide out, as captured by Geoffrey Chuah.
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Get Your Freak On Giles Deacon Best known for his playful designs, British designer Giles deacon is a fashion force to be reckoned with. He began his career by graduating from Central Saint Martins in the same class as Alexander McQueen and Luella Bartley. He set off to garner his fashion knowledge by working at Bottega Veneta and Gucci for a short period of time, before setting up his own fashion house, Giles in 2003. Since then, he’s also collaborated with high street retailer New Look, in which he released some limited edition pieces for men and women. Giles is now out on his own, working for his label Giles. Showing in Paris this Spring/Summer, he masterfully sent his models down the catwalks in pops of peach teamed with metallics and quirky sunglasses - not a moment of dullness. He often challenges the conventional, using his signature pop art style, which has made his clothes completely
untraditional. Style.com refers to his creations as such: “His work is randomness incarnate. It can’t keep to any one message, or develop an intellectual thesis. If you’re looking for a point, he’ll never get to it.” In 2009, he was won the French ANDAM Fashion Award’s Grand Prix, becoming the second designer ever to win the prize, Gareth Pugh has also won in 2008. What lies ahead for Giles? Well, it will only get better. Giles is rumoured to be designing for Emanuel Ungaro - it is hoped that he will bring the house out of it’s current bad luck streak with his colourful offbeat designs. - Pamela Kingston
FRV takes a look at what Giles has done so far which has made him the success he is today.
Here is a look a Giles Deaconâ€™s work for his own label, Giles. Starting from his Spring/Summer 2005 collection, we reminisce on what Deacon has achieved in the span on his career so far - from the motorcycle helmets from his Spring/Summer 2009 collection, to the furball dress which Vlada Roslyakova proudly displayed back in Spring 2007. Giles says he is inspired by the some of fashionâ€™s most glamorous women such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Miuccia Prada and Coco Chanel.
This is a simple look to achieve, and doesn’t take a whole load of products. To get gentle 70’s surf waves, simple add some of Bumble&Bumble’s surf spray to wet hair and allow to try. This should give you a slight wave. It’s also important to give the look a little volume, so if your hair is generally flat, try a volumizing shampoo, like Tommy Guns Blueberry, Ginseng & Honey Conditioner For Hair That Lacks Volume.
To get a sleeker version of the trend, subtly straighten the kinks out of your hair with a hair straighter, or alternatively use Tangle Teezer Professional Detangling Brush. Then add a light gloss with a finisher. To keep the whole hairdo in place, add some Tigi Love Peace & The Planet Free Your Mind Firm Hold Hairspray, to keep it all together.
This hairstyle is all about sleek subtle hair with a bounce, so make sure not to use too much product, which might weight your hair down. Now all you have to worry about is what to wear. Tommy Guns Blueberry,
Tigi Love Peace & The Planet Free Your Mind Firm Hold Hairspray 250ml €12.44
This season, 70’s waves have made a comeback - loose, lightly tousled hair is the go-to-look for a sophisticated casual hairdo, perfect for those who like to look effortless. This was seen on the runways for Spring/Summer, as shown off by the models at Chloé, Versace and Valentino, as well as Burberry Prorsum.
bumble & bumble surf spray €15.50
70’s Style Locks Make A Comeback
Fudge Body Builder Shampoo 300ml €12.19
Catching A Wave:
Ginseng & Honey Conditioner 250ml Pamela Kingston
Tangle Teezer Professional Detangling Brush €12.19
The Great Debate: The Writer Vs The Blogger
I have never really considered myself a “blogger” - I’m no Tavi Gevinson, I’m older (but look younger then her in her granny getups). I would consider myself more of an e-writer. I love the thought of pen to paper - it’s so romantic, idealist, like Emily Bronte sitting in front of the fire, dipping her quill in ink and slowly cutting each word into a harsh, cardboardy paper. I first started out as a freelance blogger however, writing for a celebrity gossip blog, and when that wasn’t enough, I created my own fashion blog.
without having to pay a cent for some badly put together Tokyo street style book. It’s real, and engulfing. I understand why the people of Vogue were at first sceptical
“like that dusty paper smell filling your nostrils “
I do believe that blogging is fun, exciting and educational, and it can really open the door to new talents, and to new ideas. It makes every good blog like a new book, and as you read it page by page, you become more enwrapped in where it’s going - almost, just almost like an authentic read, like that dusty paper smell filling your nostrils - it leaves you with new of the new generation of bloggers. thoughts born. If I was an established writer, who It’s exciting to see blogs, especially ones had worked truly hard for my front based on fashion, because you can look at row seat at fashion week, style and ideas from all over the world,
I wouldn’t want some random ten-year-old with a big hair band taking my seat either. Blogs don’t have quality control - and some are truly awful attempts at fashion writing. One I stumbled upon recently, which is quite a high-ranking blog (one of the biggest in Ireland I believe) had several distinct mistakes about different eras of fashion, as well as several other elements of advice that they were dishing out to their readers. On the plus side, blogs can be a learning experience. As a blogger, my mission is to entertain, and then to inform. Once the hype of fashion blogging has died off, order will fall back into line - and those who are truly good at what they do, will be seen just as that - the decent, hard-working, knowledgeable person, who worked hard to get their seat. Until then, we can only work at putting that musky novel smell into our blogs, and I’ll sit a few rows back, so I don’t annoy Anna Wintour. - Pamela Kingston
Glamour remix Dressed head-to-toe in clothing by the upcoming label SIMON CRACKER, old school glamour gets a re-take.
Styling: Alice Manfroni Photography: Cristiano Miretti Make-up and Hairstyling: Elisa Rampi Assistant: Isabella Poggi Model: Alissa Kravchenko At 2morrow Agency, Milan Clothes by: Simon Cracker, Fall/Winter 2010 simoncracker.blogspot.com
Zakary Alexandr le Stele
Internationalist fashion artist Zakary Alexandr le Stele refuses to draw the line between fashion and art “Art is expression, art is emotion, art is visionary ideas and thoughts. Whatever ticks these boxes is by definition for me, art. Regardless of mediums”. A former student of political science, interior design, fashion and visual art, Le Stele draws inspiration from a wealth of disparate sources, and in FRV’s eyes is poised to achieve big things. Be sure to catch his next collection. We are lucky enough to have a collection of his images, shown on the next few pages.
A Portrait of St. Francis Via Arcimboldo or FA
Spinning Psychedelic Sunflowers of Nude Red Dwarves
ÂŠFRV Magazine 2010 - All text may not be re-used unless requested beforehand. Contact email@example.com. All Images used are property of their individual owners.