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March 2018

Culture Club Cheese ~ Their Story • Smokey Karoo Gold ~ Leonista International ~ Brie de Meaux • Full of Personality and Paradox ~ Ginifer Gin 2 Fromage Autumn 2018


WILDEKRANS WINE ESTATE Award winning Wine and Olive oil


T +27 (0)28 284 9488 2 Fromage Autumn 2018

From the Publisher Welcome to the first issue of Fromage Magazine. From the delicate, floral aromas to unique complex fragrances and flavors, Hard, Soft, aromatic, they are all a true ‘ Taste of Inspiration’, and in South Africa we are spoiled for choice, from our dedicated artisanal cheese producers. Fromage Magazine hopes to cover as many of these different producers, giving the reader a better understanding of their products and where they can be sourced. Wines, Spirits and beers, will be featured, focusing on the new and exciting boutique distilleries and hand crafted breweries, and many of them have a tasting room, where you are welcome to sample their unique blends. In future issues, we will also cover coffee, chocolate, preserves and all other melt in your mouth delicacies. We look forward to hearing from you and hope you enjoy our first issue.

Michele Wood


March 2018


Michele Wood +27 713944939


Michele Wood +27 713944939


Caroline Whitehead Raw Honey Dinki Hyde It started with one mans impossible dream Filia Drimitriades My big cheesy Greek family Ilze Henderson Wildekrans Wine Estate Jessica Merton Culture Club Cheese Melanie Stevens The Story of Ginifer Moritz Kallmeyer A true craft beer culture Natasha Alomia Premium Alcoholic Popsciles Sarah Kennan Smokey Karoo Gold


Canter Pix It started with one mans impossible dream Michelle van Eeden My big Greek Cheesy family

Front Cover

Culture Club Cheese ~ Their Story • Smokey Karoo Gold ~ Leonista International ~ Brie de Meaux • Full of Personality and Paradox ~ Ginifer Gin

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Wildekrans Wine estate,za The Gourmet Greek Photograph: Jacqui S Photography


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ontent C

12 . Profile: Culture Club Cheese ~ Their Story Culture Club Cheese is Cape Town’s first boutique artisan cheese hub and fermented foods hotspot. Husband and wife, Luke Williams and Jessica Merton have a selection of 80% local and 20% imported cheese. The focus has always been on local.


20 . A Uniquely South African Range of Craft Gin Gin: captivating, alluring – and like perfume making – the distillation process is best described as pure alchemical magic. As a spirit it continues to evolve and there’s been a massive resurgence in its popularity.


27 . It Started with an impossible dream


Jon Hyde came a step closer to his dream of semi-feral Shakespeare-sprouting farm kids, a Jersey stud, and a range of hand-crafted cheeses when the Hyde family bought and moved to Hydeaway Farm from a plot in Kempton Park in 2000.

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Manufactured according to the traditional Greek Method


gourmet Greek

To be enjoyed with Toppings like fruit, honey and nuts. From cooking to baking to a cream replacement – Try me. @thegourmetgreekza



Visit for more information and to find your closest stockist

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32 . Smokey Karoo Gold The Origins of 100% agave spirits.

The legend goes that a bolt of lightening struck a particular plant which exploded and a sweet syrup was released. The syrup fermented in the heat of the Mexican sun and the Aztecs noticed this and drank some of the syrup. It gave them such a wonderful experience that they felt connected to the gods.


38. My Big Cheesy Greek Family Nestled in a beautiful, tranquil valley bordering the Lions River The Gourmet Greek was founded. This all started with a retired, bored Greek man, with time on his hands, who came across a quaint 7 hector smallholding. Where many others may have seen hard work and empty buildings Dimitri Dimitriades saw opportunity packed with possibility. He rushed out his retirement home and dragged his kicking and screaming wife Rosemary and started on a new journey. 38

44. Travel ~ Wildekrans Wine Estate At Wildekrans Wine Estate you will find that sought after, perfect break-away you have been searching for! Tucked away in the beautiful Bot River Valley in South Africa’s Western Cape amongst fields of indigenous Renosterbos, the estate offers those whose hearts beat adventure a unique variety of options. Experience top-notch Western Cape and South African hospitality by booking your stay in one of 9 country cottages, providing you access to a taste of our award-winning wines and olive oil or the finest of dining at one of our two restaurants (or both!) Endless Vineyards Lodge and Wildekrans Wine Estate is your perfect escape – if you are after endless relaxation and the best that fine dining and wine & olive oil tasting has to offer, you have found it…


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50. A True Craft Beer Culture From the earliest times the clip-clop of the local brewery’s dray horses could be heard echoing down the cobblestone streets of great old brewery cities such as Burton upon Trent and Munich. Proud of his team of sturdy shires the Drayman would quietly spur them on, directing them to the next delivery address.


62. International ~ Le Fromage des Rois You will know when you have found the perfect Meaux - It is smooth, volutuous and not quite runny. The aroma is that of mushrooms with the merest hint of ammonia and the taste is of creamy wild mushroom soup with a dash of sherry.


66. Raw Honey ~ MmmM From dusty Acacia honey through to delicately wellrounded Veld Flower honey, South Africa, with its vast geographical and climatic variations, has an abundant and diverse range of honeys. Those in the know go to a great deal of trouble to find their favourite pot of nectar.

Regulars Indulgence ~ Premium Alcoholic Popsicles 66 8 Fromage March 2018


Suppliers List 70

Publisher • • 087 150 9118 @lukecultureclub (instagram) • @Cultureclubcheese - facebook 2 Fromage Autumn 2018

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Premium alcoholic Popsicles

indulgence Frost Popsicles are South Africa’s first and only range of premium alcoholic Popsicles. The range consists of five delicious flavours – all dairy-free, vegan-friendly and made using only natural ingredients. Defintiely for adults only!

The original Popsicles – the Brut & Tranquille Pierre Jourdan Popsicles, or PJ Pops™ as we like to call them, are made using wines from acclaimed Franschhoek cellar Pierre Jourdan at Haute Cabriere. The limited edition Ratafia has also recently joined the PJ Pop™ family.  Ratafia is a Chardonnay fortified with carefully selected cask brandy distilled from Chardonnay grapes, and Haute Cabriere are the only estate in South Africa to produce the Ratafia in bottled form. With tropical flavour notes,  this Popsicle is the perfect decadent dessert. The Brut PJ Pop™ stays true to the elegant Chardonnay and rich Pinot Noir flavours of the Brut Cap Classique – a traditional, drier bubbly, while the Tranquille PJ Pop™ is made using Pierre Jourdan’s Tranquille – a slightly sweeter, still wine made using a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.   The G&T Frost Popsicles are a world-first collaboration with acclaimed Cape Town distillery, Hope on Hopkins. TheClassic G&T Popsicle has the subtle bitterness and juniper-driven notes of a traditional gin-and-tonic, and the Berry Infusion G&T Popsicle incorporates notes of blackberries, strawberries and blueberries to offer a rounded, slightly sweeter G&T experience.   Whether it’s  for dessert, a braai, wedding, pool party or corporate event, Frost Popsicles are the ideal anytime frozen treat. Visit to order online and find your nearest stockist.

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Culture Club Ch Their Story .... By Jessica Merton

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eese ....

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Culture Club Cheese is Cape Town’s first boutique artisan cheese hub and fermented foods hotspot. Husband and wife, Luke Williams and Jessica Merton have a selection of 80% local and 20% imported cheese. The focus has always been on local. Luke is a cheese maker, monger and affineur from the UK, who made cheese all over England and worked with the world’s biggest names in cheese whilst working as cheesemonger at London’s most prestigious cheese shop, La Fromagerie for many years.    He met his wife Jessica while she was on a trip back to the UK from Bangladesh, where she was working as a human rights lawyer. Bangladesh was a tricky place for Luke to work on cheese, so the couple took a world map and began hatching a plan for a new adventure and a suitable place to bring up their new son. Luke was promptly offered a job at Fairview to help them create new cheeses, so the couple emigrated to South Africa.    Luke’s passion had always been for farmstead handmade cheese, so the couple travelled the length and breadth of South Africa and met many fantastic smaller producers. Luke began helping them improve their recipes and maturing techniques – and gradually they became aware that there needed to be a platform from which these cheese makers could be shouted about.    Says Luke: “In the UK cheese is part of life. Growing up, you know a cheesemonger in the same way as you know a butcher or a baker. Here cheese has only really been part of the supermarket culture, which involves a lot of processed, additive riddled cheese from hormone and antibiotic riddled animals. This is changing - since particularly Cape Town is experiencing a phenomenal foodie revolution - there has been huge focus on back to basics - handmade produce from ethical suppliers. It’s really wonderful to watch this grow so fast.”

With this in mind, they decided to set up their own shop, focusing more on the real artisanal cheese makers in the country. They work with suppliers who are motivated by the quality, integrity and provenance of their product, focusing on hand crafted, preservative-free creations from small producers. The aim behind the company was to showcase to people in South Africa the importance of grass fed, ethically sourced dairy produce.   Says Luke Williams “We are ethical producer led, and all the items we sell tell a story that we’ve chosen for a specific reason. We see ourselves as a platform for market vendors to offer their seasonal and artisanal products, and to help them grow. Animal welfare and husbandry is our priority, and our focus is on honest dairy produce, with no additives, preservatives, antibiotics or hormones added.”   Jessica says: “The earth’s soil is a finite resource at the moment – and rapidly diminishing. At Culture Club Cheese we want to promote farmers who look after their animals and who also do not destroy their land with over grazing and over population of animals. We want to see the trend of reverting to know your maker to continue to Dairy produce too. We believe that, if everyone sources their produce more thoughtfully, dairy products can also be an environmentally sustainable part of our diets”.   Luke and Jessica have run their restaurant and cheese shop at 215 Bree Street, in the iconic cheesy yellow building at 215 Bree Street, for 3 years.  The restaurant side inevitably took over, and Luke and Jessica are now keen to focus back on their true passion: being a platform for farmstead cheese makers. 

They are extremely excited to be moving in March to a new premises near the Newlands Springs at the Josephine Mill, which is little piece of Cape History restored and re- invented into a bustling house of tradesmen activity – the aim is to make a space for customers to come and source the best wines, craft beers and spirits, with an on-site baker and coffee roaster, in addition to finding the best selection of ethically sourced cheese available in Cape Town. There will also be two fantastic restaurants in this idyllic setting overlooking the leafy banks of the Liesbeek River.   With this move in place, they will be able to focus more on working alongside selected retailers and chefs around the country and to being more helpful to the cheese makers themselves. They also want it – and their online presence – foremostly to be getting local well-made and ethically sourced cheese to more people.    Culture Club Cheese has anywhere between 60 to 100 types of cheese in stock at any one time.  The majority are from Gauteng, Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal, with several from the NorthWest and Free State. “We are constantly experimenting in our shop: as affineurs (person who ages and cares for cheese), we regularly mature our cheeses for different time periods and in different sorts of bacteria and liquor to impart different flavour profiles”. A variety of wines, whiskies, beers and fruits are used to create interesting flavour profiles and monthly pairing evenings are held for customers to enjoy pairing cheese with a range of products, including whisky, wine, beer, honey, chocolate, olive oil and even coffee.

What is the most popular product at Culture Club Cheese?   Typically, South Africans have preferred the harder boerenkaas/ gouda/cheddar style cheeses - because for a long time that is all that there was.  There is increasingly a range of wonderful cheeses being made - including washed and brushed rind cheeses, to funky blues and crystally hard goats.    Hampers: Increasingly popular are Culture Club Cheese’s fantastic selection of hampers that can be delivered around the country. With their world-class selection of both local and imported cheeses, they can create a luxury cheese hamper for anyone. They have selections from a cheese lover’s “Cheeses of the month” selection, wine and cheese hampers, to picnic hampers, pregnancy boxes and goat’s cheese hampers. pages/cheese-gifts-deliveries   Celebration Cheese Towers:    Although cake might be up there among your favourite treats, cheese must be in the top three. Celebratory cheese towers and cakes have moved up in the world and have never been so popular. From a creamy camembert to an twelve-month matured cheddar, or a pungent washed rind cheese to a Bavarian blue, cheese towers can be a quirky alternative to a traditional wedding or celebratory cake.    Jessica says “people are increasingly ready to move from traditional and sweet to the sensual and savoury, and with the best selection of hand crafted cheese at our finger tips, we can put together a delightful selection for a special wedding, birthday or celebration.”   Adorned with fruit such as grapes, figs and berries as well as seasonal flowers, cheese towers give a chic twist to a typical cake and dessert. Everything about a wedding celebration is personal and unique, so Culture Club Cheese thinks the cake should be too. Celebratory cheese towers or wedding cakes can be real show stoppers, and are the perfect alternative for a wedding breakfast or an evening celebration until the sun comes up.

Cheesemonger Luke This month’s selection from  

Goukambert This bloomy rind cheese starts its life off as a camembert style with a white penicillium mould coating, but gets edible wild moulds occasionally growing on the outside. This a fatty jersey milk cheese and can be washed to increase the bacterial count and stinkability. A lovely variation of the famous Normandy cheese made on the incredibly lush and enormously beautiful farm of Chris Metelerkamp, who is as free range with his cows as anyone on earth. Very happy cows. Jersey Cow - Ganzvlei, west of Knysna, Western Cape, South Africa

Waterkloof Healey’s Mature Cheddar

James Healey’s mature, raw milk, cloth-bound cheddar has garnered numerous awards including Gold Medals at both the World Cheese Awards and World Cheese Championships, and rightly so. James was trained at none other than the home of cheddar, Montgomery’s in Somerset, England. Predominantly Friesian milk from grass fed beauties goes into making these 10 kilo truckles and they are never sold younger than eight months. As real handmade cheddar should do, it snaps rather than bends and has a deep yet balanced fruity acidity. Holstein Friesian Cow’s Milk - Lourensford Wine Estate, Somerset West, Western Cape, South Africa

Tanglewood Rina Belcher and her husband Norman make this hard goats cheese out on their farm in Bapsfontein. Slightly sweet, delicately salty and hand made. Temperature and texture are all monitored by hand. Their herd is up to 260+ mainly Saanen goats and a selection of East Friesian and Ile de France Sheep. A stronger version of her Highvelder Classic, Rina has managed to create an excellent hard goats’ cheese that marries farmyard notes with sweet nutty flavours. There can sometimes be an element of washed rind flavours in there too. Instantly recognizable with its dripped wax coating, a must for those looking for stronger goats flavours. Goat’s Milk - Belnori, Bapsfontein, Gauteng, SA

Kirkham’s Lancarshire Culture Club Cheese are honoured to have recently been chosen by NYD as the sole supplier on the African continent of the finest UK cheese. Although their focus is on South African cheese it has been a mission of theirs to get the best, unpasteurized cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy into South Africa.  Says Luke: “On the shelf we have Montgomery’s Cheddar and Westcombe Cheddar, Colston Bassett Stilton, Kirkham’s Lancashire and Gorwydd Caerphilly. Neal’s Yard Dairy painstakingly select, mature and sell the best farmhouse cheese from the UK and Ireland and have a range of temperature and humidity controlled maturation facilities at their warehouse in London from which they hone their skills and make sure whatever goes out is at its very best. It also isn’t just the cheese and the flavour itself that is at the core of NYD’s checklist but also the mindset of the cheese maker and how they are looking to push the British cheese industry forward in the most humane and ethical way possible, something we very much believe in and echo here at Culture Club Cheese.”   As is well known and documented, it is often smells that best evoke memories from times gone by which words or pictures cannot come close to. This is the clothbound rind of Kirkham’s Lancashire, and the smell is something else, bringing me right back into the dairy. It is musty, mushroomy and clinical at the same time and is almost inexplicable with regards to the happiness it brings. I literally stood next to the cloth and inhaled the sweet fumes for a good five minutes before a customer walked in and I pretended to be doing something else. Graham Kirkham is the maker of Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire and he is the only person on earth making this true traditional cheese, so we couldn’t be happier supporting his business from over here in SA and keeping an extremely important tradition alive. The cheese itself is like biting into a cloud made of butter and fresh lemon curd with a delicate acidity. Commonly paired with fruitcake. Mesmeric. Holstein Friesian cows milk - Beeseley Farm, Lancashire, United Kingdom    Fermentation   Alongside cheese, Culture Club Cheese likes all things fermented. For Luke and Jessica, fermentation has literally become a way of life - home is made up of colonies of mad brewings of bacteria.   We have a fermentation lab in our shop in which we make kefir (fermented milk), kombucha (fermented tea drink), Kimchi (fermented korean snack) and Sauerkraut (fermented cabbage). We add the sauerkraut and kimchi to our cheese platter because the salt hit works beautifully alongside our cheese. We advise washing down a cheese platter with one of our “gutshots” - lacto fermented probiotic hit, to cut through the fat of the cheese :)   They got into fermented products at the same time as they discovered cheese - the whole process of these live underworlds that are so much bigger and more important than us humans turned their imagination and they delved into the world microbiology. Luke spent a year studying microbiology in the North of England. The easiest start with fermented products is Kefir - it is the least high maintenance and is probably the highest in potency for number of strains of bacteria that we need to populate our guts. Jessica finds that making a monthly batch of sauerkraut became second nature - using anything she had in her vegetable garden or 18 Fromage March 2018

leftover in the fridge. A lovely simple fresh kraut she has just made included organic veg from her own garden and Oranjezicht City farm: a carrot, organic cabbage, a small amount of onion and some cumin, in addition to an apple. Salted and left for a week it tastes incredible. I like to leave it for months and sample at different times each time benefitting from new range of bacteria that it produces. The great thing about fermented vegetables is the massive increase in vitamin C that is bio available.  We often make fermented porridge (with a dash of kefir overnight), ketchup, chutneys etc at home, and sometimes we incorporate them in our recipes in the shop! Our three kids love it all!

Contact details 087 150 9118 @lukecultureclub (instagram) @Cultureclubcheese - facebook


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A Uniquely South African Range of Full of Personality and Parad

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By Melanie Stevens

Gin: captivating, alluring – and like perfume making – the distillation process is best described as pure alchemical magic. As a spirit it continues to evolve and there’s been a massive resurgence in its popularity. The gin culture, and the demand for complex cocktails, is pervasive and this enchanting spirit is the perfect ingredient for more sophisticated and intricate drinks. As any gin purist knows, a good gin is easily distinguished from the next. Each has a particular taste profile and a unique scent. The award winning Ginifer Gin range is a libation that’s singularly South African and is being widely celebrated for its innovation and the energy it has introduced to the local gin scene.

NIFER Craft Gins ox

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The inspiration behind Ginifer Gin

Often sublime – always unique. That’s the way this artist creates. Angel Heart Beverages is a uniquely South African brand originally created through a powerful fusion of passion and palate! The brainchild of Jacqueline Grobler, supported by her partner Jaco, the business had its beginnings in the garage of the Grobler family home. A fascination for the magic of distilling, coupled with a clear intention, gave impetus to the dream and the dynamism of this double act is unstoppable. “We are not interested in distilling and selling bespoke alcoholic products – we sell experiences,” says Grobler who truly is an artist. When developing her products she pours her energy into each formulation. Never following a recipe nor a predetermined formulae or process; Grobler composes her gin. Like a symphony – she adds notes that come together to create something unique and quite magical; a matchless taste sensation. “The alchemical process of transforming one element into another truly is magical to experience and it never gets old,” says Grobler. An artist at heart – Grobler is as driven and savvy as she is creative and passionate. It’s this combination that has resulted in the success of Ginifer with several local and global awards backing the credentials of this spirt. An extremely talented individual, Grobler has always had a wide range of interests, across a variety of subjects; from the science behind food, to growing and using her own herbs, vegetables and spices. With a background in fine jewellery design, Grobler has an eye for beauty, balance and the unusual. Shaping something beautiful is what makes her heart race. It’s not surprising therefore that anything she puts her hand to has touches of enchantment. “We will never just be a company chasing a bottom line. We only release a product when it’s ready and this can mean going back to the drawing board again and again to refine the process. From a Sunday afternoon idea that was born in our kitchen, it took incredible dedication and passion to get to the point we now find ourselves.”

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Inspired by the vibrant energy only Joburg has to offer. Ginifer is an artisanal Joburg Dry Gin carefully hand crafted in small batches and copper pot distilled to create a contemporary, refreshing gin. Inspired by the diversity and vibrant energy unique to Jozi, it’s as smooth as the summer sky. The formulation includes 13 gin botanicals, many of which are sourced from across Europe and then combined in perfect harmony with uniquely African botanicals used in traditional healing. These are mostly sourced from the Faraday Muthi Market in Eloff Street in the Joburg CBD. The market is a fascinating melange of traditional medicine and supernatural belief and by sourcing ingredients here – the distillery “honours Johannesburg.” The inclusion of these local botanicals gives Ginifer a distinctive taste and smell and with a heavy botanical load it and can handle stronger flavours without getting lost. Strong spices, fruit and good quality tonic water complement this gin beautifully. The measure of a good gin is that is can be enjoyed neat, and while delicious in cocktails, Ginifer is equally good just served over ice. Ginifer takes four days to make while the ageing process takes a further two months. Volume: 750ml • Variety: Craft • Alcohol: 43%

Ginifer Chilli Created for Gin lovers who enjoy a little spice and some heat without the bite. A barrel aged chili gin, formulated in the same manner as the original Ginifer, this is without doubt, a mesmerizing spirit – best served in a good tonic and paired with a slice of grapefruit, a sprig of coriander and a dried chili garnish. Intense, exotic, unexpected and more masculine are just some of the ways Ginifer Chili has been described. The chilli essence – the 14th ingredient in this exotic gin – is barrel aged for 18 months in oak (made from Joburg Oak trees) and this process delivers a gentle hit of capsaicin that slowly releases a measure of endorphins with every sip of the spirit. It’s a truly breath taking sensation, leaving a warm taste at the back of the mouth but without the bite; the heat which is of a medium volume dissipates quickly. Through the process of aging the chilli, the essence picks up tones of vanilla and smoke, and this complements the gin botanicals beautifully without dominating the gin taste.  Earthy and warm – soft and filled with flavour - it’s well balanced but full of contradiction. Volume: 750ml • Variety: Craft • Alcohol: 43%

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Ginifer Bitters Intense Artisanal Infusions that Add Depth to any Drink. Ginifer Bitters is a range of artisanal bitters quite unlike any other on the local cocktail circuit. Every ingredient in these tinctures is natural and in its raw form and the intense infusions add depth and vigour to cocktails and culinary creations alike. A heady concentration of eclectic flavours; you need just four drops to completely enhance the flavour profile of your drink to make it more complex; to make your cocktail sing. The tinctures provide balance and give cocktails a more complete flavour profile. Handcrafted in small batches, the process is complicated and takes some two-and-a-half months to complete. There’s no added sugar and with an alcohol content of 48% - refrigeration is unnecessary. Catering to a wide range of preferences, there are seven unique bitters in the Ginifer range – all of which are sold in 100ml bottles. The range includes: Grapefruit; Orange-Vanilla; Chocolate (bitter); Cinnamon; Star-Anise; Chilli; and Strawberry-black pepper. Bitters add extra dimension and flavour and are considered an essential ingredient in any well-crafted cocktail; the salt and pepper of the cocktail world.

Ginifer Awards: International Awards The American Distilling Institute’s (ADI) craft spirits competition: Ginifer - Silver Medal: International Contemporary Grain-to-Glass Gin Ginifer Chilli Infused Gin - The Best of Category Award - International Signature Botanical/Flavoured Gin Ginifer Chilli Infused Gin - Silver Medal: International Signature Botanical/Flavoured Gin

Local Awards Good Food & Wine Show 2017 - Gold: Most Innovative Stand Good Food & Wine Show 2017 - Gold: Best Custom Design Stand Food review - 3rd Place: Best New Product Range In touch with their audience and recognizing the power of experience, Grobler has developed a tasting room at their distillery where they accommodate groups, tutor them in the art of making gin, and at the same time introduce them to other products in the stable. All Ginifer products are fashioned in-house and they distil, blend and bottle on site. The Ginifer range is available from leading liquor outlets, bars and restaurants or directly from Angel Heart Beverages: For additional information or recipes – follow Ginifer on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram: ginifergin. Ginifer is not for sale to persons under 18 years of age.

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HYDEAWAY FARM The Way It Should Be

Producers of artisan cheeses of exceptional quality Nurturers of our people, our animals and the environment

Boerenkaas – Gouda – Cumin Gouda – Mustard Gouda – Chillipep Gouda – Greek Feta – Fromage Frais – Biltong Fromage – Chilli/Ginger/Garlic Fromage – Probiotic Yoghurt – Yoghurt with Raw Honey


Dinki 083 254 3921

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It started....

By Dinki Hyde Photograph courtesy Canter Pix

with one man’s impossible dream.

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Jon Hyde came a step closer to his dream of semi-feral Shakespeare-sprouting farm kids, a Jersey stud, and a range of hand-crafted cheeses when the Hyde family bought and moved to Hydeaway Farm from a plot in Kempton Park in 2000. The Hyde daughters, Firn and Rain, were 3 and 1 years old respectively at this time, and although they were free-ranging farm kids for many years, both obtained their Cambridge AS-levels with several distinctions, and both are an integral part of the family business. This adventurous family, which also includes the mom, Dinki, never lost sight of what became known as “THE DREAM” during the 17 years it took to build up the Joyful Jersey stud, which includes several award-winning heifers and cows, and to develop and produce their range of unique hand-crafted cheeses. Much emphasis is placed on ensuring an exceptional quality of life for each Joyful Jersey, which literally begins at conception of the precious little calf, and continues throughout the animal’s life. Dinki is responsible for the day-to-day management of the herd and combines sound scientific principles, thorough and continuous research, and regular updating of management practices with a mother’s nurturing touch. A lot of care is taken to use expert advice from vets, semen consultants and nutritionists to ensure the optimum well-being of the herd, combined with oldfashioned, common-sense farming and mothering techniques, such as stroking each member of the herd every day. The herd is intentionally kept small to ensure individual attention to each animal. The Hydes chose to milk Jerseys because of their superior milk quality, high solids, and, above all, lovely temperament. Firn, who is responsible for genetic planning, carefully selects bulls for artificial insemination to ensure good, functional udders, high protein and butterfat, good feet and legs for walking (the Joyful Jerseys graze year-round), and longevity. The Hydes’ philosophy is to keep the management of the herd as close as possible to nature, but with the well-being of the animals as the paramount consideration. The grande dame of the farm, Hydeaway XF Fiona, still enjoys a wonderful quality of life and is expecting her eleventh calf. This achievement is only possible through precision breeding and careful nurturing

The Jerseys’ main diet consists of grass which they fetch themselves, the natural way, and high quality hay sourced from local farmers. To ensure optimum health and economic viability, the diet is supplemented with a small amount of concentrates fed in the milking parlour. The farm’s feed supplier provides a custommade mix which is free of antibiotics. No hormones are fed or injected. An animal is treated with antibiotics only when necessary to ensure its continued health, and when this is done, her milk is withdrawn for the prescribed period and strict controls are in place to ensure that withdrawal milk does not end up in the bulk tank. This ensures happy, healthy cows, which is borne out by the tests that SA Stud Book performs on each individual dairy cow’s milk at six week intervals. In addition to the six-weekly milk recording tests, the Hydes perform all the statutory tests and more to monitor the quality of the milk produced on the farm, which in turn determines the quality of the final product. The farm uses sophisticated technology to monitor each step of the cold chain 24 hours per day, to ensure that all the effort expended in producing a quality product does not go to waste. Once the milk is produced, it is the responsibility of the man with the dream to turn it into the delicious cheeses which are becoming synonymous with Hydeaway Farm. Jon Hyde has spent many hours, sometimes through the night, developing, testing, and fine-tuning his cheese processes and recipes to ensure a unique final product. The three Hyde girls are his assistants and guineapigs; not a single step of the cheese making process on Hydeaway

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Farm is delegated to any one outside the Hyde family and Jon’s recipes are a closely-guarded secret. Environmentally friendly practices are used as far as possible and the Hydes’ quirky natures are reflected in their love of combining the old with the new in the cheese-making process. Hydeaway Farm focuses on using sustainable resources and the milk used for cheese making is heated by burning fallen wood which is collected on the farm. Not a single tree has been cut down for use in the cheese fire since the family started making cheese.

Not satisfied with merely doing the basics, Jon quickly started experimenting with the tricky but popular Boerenkaas, so named because this speciality cheese has to be made on the farm where the cows are milked. Boerenkaas is made from unpasteurised milk, which requires extremely high standards of hygiene, and it is also not waxed, lending a strong and dry quality to the cheese. The success of this experiment led to four further experiments with flavoured goudas, namely Mustard, Cumin, Red Chilli and Black Pepper, and Coriander. Although the gouda with coriander cheese has a lovely biltong flavour, the experiment was put on ice as it failed all four Hydes’ stringent texture test. The other three flavours have proved to be extremely successful, and now form a permanent part of the Hydeaway range of cheeses. As with most hand-crafted products, there is some variation in the strength of the flavours from batch to batch.

Jon started off by doing the basics right, and Hydeaway Farm’s plain feta and plain gouda are still the flagship products. Hydeaway Greek Feta has a strong, tangy flavour which can be attributed to the natural vegetation grazed by the cows and the unique recipe developed by Jon. In contrast, Hydeaway plain Gouda is a smooth, mild and moist cheese which varies in colour depending on the season and the paddock in which the herd is grazing. The business now started growing so quickly that there was little time to experiment. By herculean effort, Jon started producing a variety of blue cheeses, cheddar cheese, and blind Swiss cheese. All of these varieties still need some fine-tuning and are currently not in stock, but part of an on-going process of experimentation and testing. Ever innovative, Jon started turning his attention to the soft cheeses, and a successful range of fromage frais was born. Hydeaway Farm now produces a plain fromage, a chilli-ginger-garlic fromage, and a uniquely South African and very popular biltong fromage. Fromage is a soft, spreadable cheese, somewhere between a cream cheese and a cottage cheese. It can be used as a spread on biscuits or bread, as a dip, or to thicken gravies, soups and stews. 29 Fromage Autumn 2018

The philosophy to produce a high quality product without the use of colourants, flavourants or preservatives runs like a golden thread through Jon’s recipes. Hydeaway Farm can only produce so-called ‘white gouda’ in winter, when most of the naturallyoccurring vegetation is dry and brown; when the cows graze the green vegetation in summer, the cheese is naturally yellow without the addition of any colourants. Jon’s yoghurt recipe is extremely simple but packed with goodness: the contents of the Hydeaway probiotic yoghurt are simply milk and a probiotic culture. No thickeners are needed due to the richness of the Jersey milk, and no stabilisers or colourants are added.

Rain was also instrumental in forging a relationship with the owners of the delightful Delicatessen Kostlich in HF Verwoerd street in Heidelberg. This Deli stocks the full range of Hydeaway Farm’s cheeses.

Through careful experimentation and observation, and because the Hydes personally make each cheese produced on the farm, an interesting phenomenon was discovered : the cheese maker’s mood has a significant effect on the taste and texture of the cheese. If the cheese maker is relaxed and happy, the stirring process (which is purposefully not mechanised) is slow and methodical, while a bad mood might lead to more aggressive stirring and a drier cheese, because aggressive stirring shocks the curd and it forms a skin too early, and not enough whey can be expelled. Jon is quick to point out that cheese making is a blend between a science and an art – while it is of paramount importance to religiously follow each recipe, the cheese maker must work with finesse and skill, and cannot afford to lose concentration. Jon, Dinki and Firn are makers and not marketers, and this is where Rain’s skill as a marketer comes into its own. Her friendly disposition and genuine empathy quickly draws customers to the markets where Hydeaway Farm’s cheese and yoghurt ranges are sold. Prospective customers can find Hydeaway Farm represented at most markets in and around Heidelberg, particularly at the regular Farmers’ Breakfasts offered by the Reformed Church in Heidelberg, the quarterly Goeiehoek Kontreimark, and anything and everything happening in and around the charming hamlets of Greylingstad and Val. 30 Fromage March 2018

Never one to be satisfied with the status quo for very long, Jon introduced an additional facet to Hydeaway Farm’s operations : farm tours and farm visits. Visitors can choose between or participate in a variety of activities, tailor-made for each group’s energy levels. This includes meeting and interacting with the friendly and inquisitive Joyful Jerseys, milking the cows, attending a presen

tation about the history and characteristics of the Jersey breed, cheese tasting, as well as scenic outrides of varying duration on Firn’s Morning Star Stables horses, pony rides for kids, and demonstrations of the various riding disciplines. Morning Star Stables is a division of Hydeaway Farm and home to around 30 horses, including several Nooitgedachters. The Nooitgedachter is a hardy indigenous breed with excellent temperament. Cheese is available to be bought directly from the farm during these visits or tours. It is essential to book in advance for all visits or tours to secure this busy family’s time and attention.

the products while at the same time nurturing the family through her delicious cooking and caring nature, all in addition to the cheese making which takes place once or twice per week.

Most afternoons and during the holidays, Hydeaway Farm is abuzz with visiting children who each have found their special place at the farm. The Hydes are passionate about teaching town and city kids about nature and farm life and the children absolutely thrive on being close to nature and interacting with the calves, cows, horses, pigs, dogs and shed cats that inhabit the farm.

Hydeaway Farm is a very happy place where every human and animal is accepted and given the chance to develop to his or her full potential, and this is reflected in the quality of the products it produces.

The Hyde family count themselves very lucky to be living and working on a beautiful farm, each family member responsible for his or her particular passion: Firn spending hours memorising pedigrees, evaluating the heifers and cows, and carefully selecting a bull to complement or improve each animal, while also running a busy stable yard; Dinki outside amongst the Jersey herd for most of the day, observing, feeding, treating, nurturing and making sure each animal grows and produces to her full potential; Jon poring over recipes, researching, improving processes and putting in checks to ensure perfect quality; Rain marketing

To learn more about this family farm, follow Hydeaway Farm on Facebook Dinki on 083 2543921 March 2018 Fromage 31

Smo By Sarah Kennan

2 Fromage 32 FromageMarch March2018 2018

key Karoo Gold March March2018 2018Fromage Fromage33 3

The Origins of 100% agave spirits. The legend goes that a bolt of lightening struck a particular plant which exploded and a sweet syrup was released. The syrup fermented in the heat of the Mexican sun and the Aztecs noticed this and drank some of the syrup. It gave them such a wonderful experience that they felt connected to the gods. Fast forward to a few thousand years to the 15 hundreds that same plant was used as weights in the hulls of Spanish ships and as the ships sailed from Mexico around the coast of Africa they often crashed on the coastal rocks. That plant rolled onto the beaches and started to flourish.   Jump ahead a few thousand years after dutch colonization of south Africa. A girl from Graaff Rienet went to the coast on holiday; saw the plant growing in arid conditions and the animals loving to eat it. She took it to her fathers farm in Graaff Rienett and from then on it was used as emergency fodder for the animals all over the Karoo. This plant is called the blue Agave and this plant is what 100% agave Tequilas and Mezcals is made from. Sarah’s Love for Tequila began when she discovered 100% agave Tequila.  The love and passion stemmed from the discovery that all alcohols are depressants but 100% agave spirits are the most energy giving of all alcohols if treated with respect. With quality 100% agave spirits, if you drink in moderation you can have an amazing high energy night out and wake up in the morning with little to no hangover.  When made correctly they are so smooth and powerful that some say it is the “Elixir of the Gods.” The Tequilas that have been on the market in South Africa until recently are only 60% agave and 40% cut with cane spirit and is called a “Mixto” in Mexico. She became so passionate and interested in the product that she travelled to Mexico and went on a 100% agave research tour. She spent some time in Tequila town in Mexico learning from the master distillers there and also traveled around the rest of Mexico, especially Oaxaca visiting the Mezcalairas where she observed and helped them in their traditional methods of making Mezcal.    The process of making quality 100% agave spirits very unique and difficult to master. It basically goes from a harvesting, to a slow baking process, to crushing, to fermenting, to distilling process, that all takes about a month to complete.  After you distill your “Blanco” or un-aged spirit it goes into the aging process to make Reposado  which means “rested.” The baking process creates the main difference between Tequila and a Mezcal. The oven used for making Tequila is electric, like a very large kitchen oven, whereas with a Mezcal its wood burning oven, more like a super large pizza oven. The spoke and fire effects the agave as it bakes and gives it that distinctive smokey fla34 Fromage March 2018



vour. Mezcal for me is more South African as the baking process is more like a Braai as apposed to an oven ;)  Mezcals are also made from a range of different agave like the ones found in SA whereas Tequila is only made from the Tequiliana webber. 

2 Fromage Autumn 2018

March 2018 Fromage 3

Inspired by her trip to Mexico Sarah returned to South Africa and found the agave growing in abundance in the Karoo. After she found the right distiller who was crazy enough to help her create a authentic 100% agave spirit they built a wood fired oven specially designed to cook the agave the same way the Mezcalias do in Mexico. And so Leonista was born. Leonista means “place of Lion” referring not only to the Karoo but to Africa too. Its the only 100% agave spirit in the country made in the traditional Mexican method which gives it that authentic smokey flavour.  I cannot call it Tequila or Mezcal as there is a law that if it is not made in Mexico the names cannot be used. So it is 100% agave spirit.

I promote sipping Leonista neat but it is an amazing product to create some cocktails: Blanco + bitter lemon, fresh lime and Ice Reposado + pineapple juice, fresh lime and Ice Honey reposado + fresh ginger, lemon and ice. Lifestyle video for the way we want leonista to make you feel and how to drink it. With respect.

There are 3 variants: Blanco - meaning “White” in Spanish. Definitely the closest to a Mezcal of the 3 because of its distinct smokiness. This is an unaged spirit and great for making cocktails or neat on ice.  Reposado - meaning “Aged” in Spanish. For those who are big whiskey lovers the Reposado is for you. This is a Blanco that has been aged in old brandy oak barrels for 3 - 6 months and has a smooth sweet beginnings caused by the oak with hints of a smokey aftertaste. Best en-joyed neat or on ice. Honey Reposado - For those who enjoy something with a subtle sweetness. The Reposado that has been infused with Raw honey sourced from the Cape. Best enjoyed on ice or with a splash of soda. Cocktails and perfect serves:

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See link below to our website where you can buy online or find your nearest bottle store: See social media channels below: Facebook: @leonista_100%agavespirit Inst:@leonista_spirit Twitter@leonista_spirit

Leonista means place of lion and is the first 100% Karoo agave spirit in South Africa made in the traditional Mexican way. The production process follows an age old recipe used in Mexico to make agave spirits like Mezcal and Tequila. It requires smoke and fire, hence Leonista has a delicious smokey flavor similar to that of a Mezcal. 100% agave spirits are the most energy giving of all alcohols, if treated with respect. 

Blanco: meaning "white"in Spanish is "smooth and smoky." It is the un-aged variant in the pride characterized by the smooth but distinctly smokey flavour and is the closest adaption to an authentic Mezcal. Perfect serve: Blanco + fresh lime, ice and bitter lemon Reposado: meaning aged or rested is "mellow and aged" and is our senior member of the pride. It is rested for 3 - 6 months in oak barrels resulting in a smooth, sweeter flavour with hints of smoky finish. Perfect serve: Reposado + fresh pinapple juice and ice

Honey Reposado: "Wild and buzzy" The sweetest lioness of the pride. Infused with wild Cape honey, our Honey Reposado is subtly sweet with hints of smoky finish. Perfect serve: Honey Reposado + ginger and a splash of soda."

My Big Cheesy By Filia Dimitriades Photography Courtesy: Michelle van Eeden Photography

Nestled in a beautiful, tranquil valley bordering the Lions River The Gourmet Greek was founded. This all started with a retired, bored Greek man, with time on his hands, who came across a quaint 7 hector smallholding. Where many others may have seen hard work and 38 Fromage March 2018

Greek Family

empty buildings Dimitri Dimitriades saw opportunity packed with possibility. He rushed out his retirement home and dragged his kicking and screaming wife Rosemary and started on a new journey. March 2018 Fromage 39

Dimitri and Rosemary spent time with Dimitris Greek brother in law in Madigascar who has produced strained yoghurt and cheese for over a decade, learning the art of cheesemaking. After arriving home they began experimenting in a giant pot in their kitchen. The house often smelt like milk and many midnight hours were put into achieving a delicious strained authentic natural greek yoghurt. Being a Greek family means everyone gets involved even if only able through Skype. With much deliberation and many arguments a name was finally agreed upon. After months of perfecting the recipe and upgrading a small shed into a Cheesery they sold their first tub of strained yoghurt in 2013. Many celebrations were had and the note that was used to pay for that yoghurt sat on the windowsill untouched as a reminder. In those early days the tiny factory was processing one to two hundred litres of milk a week. Being Greek the range included strained greek yoghurt, Halloumi and Feta. These were the most sorely missed Dairy products from Greece. The Greek yoghurt was strained in the traditional Greek way and has no fillers, preservatives or sugars added making it a completely natural delicious product. The Halloumi is a cheese known as being a squeaky cheese with a rubber texture. The Cypriots also eat it uncooked but the majority of the population like to fry or grill it. In Greece every village makes their own Feta. The Feta varies from soft, creamy and spreadable like butter to hard and crumbly like the typical South African variety. The Gourmet Greek Feta falls somewhere inbetween. It was at this time that their daughter Filia who was a teacher, saw the amount of work her older parents had taken on and decided to step in and help for a few months before heading overseas. Filia was never particularly fond of the idea of cooking and was assisting with the condition that she would not be involved in the production. One morning Dimitri and Rosemary decided to go to Durban and left Filia with a hundred liters of milk forcing her to step in and produce cheese. That day she became a cheesemaker and is still currently producing all the cheeses. Being a typical Greek family meant sticking to three items wasn’t enough and the range expanded to include other cheeses such as gouda, cheddar, pecorino, Boursin-type and Brie. This allowed for everybody to have a favourite and meant that the milk could be used on maturing cheeses. The Hard cheeses are matured for a minimum of six months at a slightly warmer temperature and allows for any excess milk to be used on building up stock. The gourmet greek mature cheeses ripen naturally and don’t have any colorants added or flavour enhancers. All the Gourmet Greek products are kept as natural as possible. It was in the first year that Jackie Cameron came across the Gourmet Greek yoghurt by chance and nominated them for a DSTV Eat Out Award. The Gourmet Greek was privileged enough to be able to take part and won a DSTV eat out award for their strained yoghurt. Not only did this award boost moral when the hours were late and the work was tiring, but it also sped up the recognition of the new brand breaking into the market. In these early days Dimitri was doing the deliveries himself. At first this was mostly local and then the calls began to come from Pretoria and Johannesburg asking for our yoghurt to be stocked in their establishments. The word of mouth marketing was fantastic as the factory was running lean and everything was being done by hand. Filia and Rosemary were working with one staff member and producing, packing orders, labelling every cheese and yoghurt tub by hand as well as dishing every tub of yoghurt with a spoon and a scale. 40 Fromage March 2018

With Dimitri travelling to Johannesburg every Tuesday and Durban every Thursday time was tight. The Cheesery was running 7 days a week to keep up and the Dimitriades family realised it was time to make some changes. The Cheesery was expanded into an adjoining room and a driver was hired to assist with deliveries as well as more staff for the production side. During this time Lakovos Dimitriades and his wife Megan saw how much work was involved and decided it was time to return to South Africa from London Lakovos had trained in business and had an accounting background and was able to offer many skills that at this stage hadn’t been implemented; such as planning and strategizing for the future of the business. Megan is a dietician and got involved with the food safety side of things as well as any other questions concerning food and health. By this time there were many local residents from Lions River that were employed and who were assisting in the Cheesery. Lakovos also came across the Future Farmers program which sources individuals with a passion for farming with no previous work experience and places them in your business to train and learn. This is

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an incredible initiative as people that would not often be able to find a job in a specific area are assisted by the future farmers and if they preform to the best of their abilities the initiative will find farms and assist in placing them overseas to experience something different for a year. The Gourmet Greek has been privileged to participate in this training and has been able to find some young passionate cheese makers to train. The Cheesery again expanded into another section and machinery was upgraded to make tasks simpler. For instance there was great celebration when a yoghurt filler that measures out the yoghurt was purchased. With the brand becoming more wellknown people would often arrive all hours of all days of the week looking to purchase stock directly from the source. This posed a problem with hygiene as well not having a place where people could see the products and select what they are looking for. The obvious solution was to open a deli on the property and thankfully there was a quaint spare cottage available. With a few shelves and tweaks The Blue Cow Deli was created. The Deli offers a complimentary cheese tasting; this is to showcase the products as people may not know all the different cheeses that are available. The deli also has a small menu with all day breakfasts and certain light Greek meals and the popular Greek deserts. The deli is also stocked with other local goodies and everything you need for a delicious picnic. With the cheesery and the deli working hand in hand Lakovos decided to explore some of his other passions and started vegetables on a small piece of land. These vegetables are used in the deli and sold to veggie shops in the area and to any walk in customers. Any waste from the vegetables is fed to some free-range pigs that live 42 Fromage March 2018

a luxurious life on the bottom of the farm living off pasture and whey which is waste product of the cheeses. The idea is to have a self-sustaining property made up of many parts which complement each other and work as a productive system. There are the few pets that just roam around freely living out their time relaxing. These included the 2 rescue donkeys and 2 retired horses as well as some older hens and roosters and the beautiful carefree peacocks. The hens and peacocks are often found hanging around the deli eyeing out the customers and hoping for treats. The deli is currently undergoing revamp so that when it reopens next month the deli will have a more efficient kitchen, newer improved menu and safe, entertaining children’s area. The idea is to be able to allow for parents with young children to be able to enjoy a day out and know that there children are safe and entertained. The food makes use of the Greek family inspiration and good quality cheese and the smoothies are made with good, wholesome Gourmet Greek Yoghurt. There are big, exciting changes happening in the cheesery as well. An entirely new look on the yoghurt and cheese is being released as well as a low fat version. The low fat gourmet greek yoghurt is special as it still has the high protein, low fat and a lower cholesterol level while still maintaining a great flavour and thick texture. When not tasted side by side with double thick yoghurt you might not notice the difference. The cheeses are also having a makeover so that they stand out bolder and brighter. The Gourmet Greek products will slowly be showing off their new look in the market over the next few weeks. These products can be found in Pretoria, Johannesburg and from the midlands through to salt rock. Hopefully they will be available even further soon but until then all the stockists can be found on the website. What makes the Gourmet Greek special is the unique way in which the family works together to bring a product of high quality to the table. Many hours are spent discussing changes, tasting products and controlling quality. Decisions are made together and care and time is put into the different members of the teams to create a sense of ownership and pride. The business is still small but as it grows care is taken to keep the quality consistent. The Strained Greek yoghurt is the flagship product for the business and many hours have been spent labouring over the recipe and any changes and tweaks. The Gourmet Greek family takes pride in their products and can often be found at the deli explaining their cheeses and yoghurt to curious customers. Greeks are known to be passionate people and this passion can be found in every tasty mouthful.

Other Information Currently the Gourmet Greek does not offer tours of the Cheesery, however, they are exploring that option for the future. Website - Email address- Facebook page- The Gourmet Greek Deli hours- Wednesday to Sunday 8:30 – 16:00 March 2018 Fromage 43

The ultimate in The ultimate in relaxation

By Ilze Henderson 44 Fromage March 2018


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At Wildekrans Wine Estate you will find that sought after, perfect break-away you ha ve been searching for! Tucked away in the beautiful Bot River Valley in South Africa’s Western Cape amongst fields of indigenous Renosterbos, the estate offers those who se hearts beat adventure a unique variety of options. Experience top-notch Western Cape and South African hospitality by booking

The Wildekrans Wine Estate is one of the oldest farms in the Botrivier Valley which dates back to the early 1800’s and was originally used as an outspan post for the oxen and wagons of the 17th, 18th and 19th century travellers. The town’s name, Botrivier, is derived from the meaning “butter river”, where the local Hottentot tribe used to barter butter and cattle to the early European pioneers. As these early travellers descended the Houw Hoek Pass, they called the vast expanse of Overberg rolling hills in front of them “Canaan”, meaning the “the promised land”. Wildekrans today fills a prominent space in this wonderful, fertile landscape. The first fruit orchards and grape vineyards were planted over a hundred years ago and the wine cellar dates back to the 1920’s and 1930’s, with original signed M. Kannemeyer built-in concrete open kuipers and tanks. The terroir is unique for the production of premium wines, evident by the myriad of local and international awards it has received. The estate is also home to the Endless Vineyards Lodge offering charming accommodation and two world class restaurants.

Accommodation Endless Vineyards Lodge’s cottages offer comfortable accommodation, ensuring a break from the stresses of city life. The estate is well situated to offer an exclusive and serene break away from the hustle, yet the amenities and tourist attractions of the Overberg and Hermanus is only a short drive away. The focus is on the finer things in life, and the comfortable, well equipped and beautifully decorated cottages is just the place to do this! Each cottage features two or three spacious bedrooms 46 Fromage March 2018

your stay in one of 9 country cottages, providing you access to a taste of our award-winning wines and olive oil or the finest of dining at one of our two restaurants (or both!) Endless Vineyards Lodge and Wild ekrans Wine Estate is your perfect escape – if you are after endless relaxation and the best that fine dining and wine & olive oil tasting has to offer, you have found it…

with king or twin beds, a kitchenette, lounge, full bathroom, separate toilet and patio complete with fireplace/braai area. Of course, there are also the views and the endless vineyards! With the backdrop of the Overberg Mountains behind and the crisp, freshness of the vines ahead, what better location to surround yourself with nature? With large patios overlooking the vineyards and the watery masses of the river below, one could easily be transported to a time when life was simpler and slower.

Fine dining Forage at Wildekrans is the estate’s flagship “Indigenous Dining” restaurant. The products are foraged and sourced from local artisans and farmers. It is prepared using old world techniques with modern inspiration and follow the ethos of promoting a sustainable and unique dining experience. The menu evolves as does the season and what nature allows them to harvest. At Forage Restaurant they believe in going back to old world techniques and ingredients to showcase regional, indigenous cuisine in the aim to preserve the South African culinary heritage and culture creating an exceptional dining experience which beautifully reflects the terroir and culture of the cape. In the 1800’s the Koi San foraged the lands for their daily food and the Forage team have applied this ethos to the restaurant. The Forage Team goes back in time to re-create traditional foods with a modern twist. The botanicals and ingredients are foraged by the chefs. With over 1000 hectares on a diverse and unique landscape, the Wildekrans Wine Estate is their playground. It allows them access to unique wild weeds and indigenous edibles to showcase on their menus. March 2018 Fromage 47

Casual Dining at the Tasting Room Racione at the Tasting room is a social dining venue serving dishes that complement the excellent estate wines served at the tasting room. A new addition and popular attraction for guests is the tasting of our award-winning olive oil. All dishes are prepared using only fire and coal which gives a unique South African or “local is lekker� theme to the venue and dining experience. The setting is casual and serene at this outdoor restaurant and offers magnificent views of the three mountain ranges surrounding the estate. Unparalleled scenic beauty and world class hospitality is to be expected at Wildekrans. The estate is located off the N2, en-route to Hermanus and is the perfect getaway destination.

Welcome to the Gateway to the Overberg!

48 Fromage March 2018 028 284 9488

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A True Craft Be

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er Culture....

By Moritz Kallmeyer March 2018 Fromage 51

From the earliest times the clip-clop of the local brewery’s dray horses could be heard echoing down the cobblestone streets of great old brewery cities such as Burton upon Trent and Munich. Proud of his team of sturdy shires the Drayman would quietly spur them on, directing them to the next delivery address. How it all started In 7th grade I had an encounter with fermenting “mielie beer” brewed by Filemon, a rural farm worker who was staying with us on the smallholding where I grew up. I was fascinated by it. Filemon showed me how to malt maize kernels by sprouting it under Hessian bags, then sun drying and crushing it. He also taught me how to make a traditional nutritious drink called “suurpap” (not mageu) which also starts with the fermentation of maize. Very few rural black people still know how to brew this drink. My mother spurred on my newfound interest when she bought me a book written by Anna Olivier, “Maak jou eie wyn tuis”. She might have since regretted that decision! During subsequent school years, I made delightfully tasting fruit wines, which I aged in the sock drawer of my cupboard! During my 4th year at university, together with two fellow hostel mates, we bought a beer kit which was advertised in the Farmers Weekly. This was my early home brewing years which spanned from 1984 to 1995. During those same years I followed a career as a Biokineticist (exercise rehabilitation scientist) and had ample time to pursue my passion for beer and brewing. Eventually I realized that it needed more motivational input for someone to start exercising than to persuade someone to have a beer! In 1996 after tasting my outstanding home craft brews, Tony Halliday appoint52 Fromage March 2018

ed me as a brewer to the first brewpub in Pretoria, the Firkin. Being slightly ahead of its time, and being one of the first at making South African craft beer – the brewpub failed and I decided to take the plunge and go on my own. I started brewing full time in my garage in January 1997 in Villieria, Pretoria, using converted copper geysers for my brewhouse. Malt was stored in the spare bedroom and the car was parked permanently outside the garage! Six months later I moved to our first official premises which was a cowshed on the original farm in Koedoespoort. In January 2000 with the financial help of my father Hymie Kallmeyer and the other investors, I bought an old house in the Silverton industrial area and had it revamped into a fully functional craft brewery. Drayman’s microbrewery specializes in brewing a range of outstanding craft beers equivalent to the finest in the world. The beer is distributed throughout the Gauteng area to upper class restaurants, bars, pubs, taverns and selected bottle stores. Increasing demand for these fine beers will see us cautiously expanding the brewery and distribution network of what has now become a renowned South African Craft Beer. Since the brewery’s inception, our beers have been enjoying increasing popularity amongst beer lovers as an alternative to costly imported styles.

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Drayman’s brewery, symbol of purity and craftsmanship It would have been easy just to recite the historical and the highly romanticized Reinheitsgebot here – however, using good quality malt, hops and water does not ensure quality and flavourful beer with no flaws in the trade. My ultimate goal has always been customer drinking pleasure. I want to brew the best beer I can, utilizing everything that traditional brewing and modern science has to offer. It requires a passionate brewer that has a good palate and a hard working microbrewery team that is constantly guarding against complacency in the brewery. Each Drayman’s microbrewery craft beer is hand-crafted with pride, skill and dedication. Our brewing process does not utilize pasteurization that will change delicate flavour profiles, but rather ultra-filtration. The result is true, all-natural beer, craft-brewed in the finest old world traditions. A truly great beer has an indefinable quality, reflecting the brewer’s art and his passion. Such a craft-brewed beer might not always be entirely predictable nor liked by the regular beer quaffer, but it makes it exactly suited to the real beer lover who wants his beer to be a constant source of both mystery and pleasure. Upon writing this and being a brewer now for the last seven years, I am still often frustrated at my inability to improve control of the brewing process and brew even better beer with lower oxygen count, more stability, greater clarity, improved balance and better

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head retention. The dilemma of the micro brewer is that the cost of modern technology and process control instrumentation is a luxury most can not afford. On a quest to establish a craft beer culture in South Africa South Africans have a lot to learn from the world’s most jovial drinkers and their craft beer culture – the Germans. At the first sign of spring the Bavarians will hold a village festival, which is a service of blessing in the meadow, with a beer tent erected in an open field. The priest will thank God for His goodness! The snow has fallen and melted, water has laughed its way down the mountainside to the lakes and brewery wells. The valley is sprouting with clean malting barley, and the hop gardens are dense with vines ready to flower. After the service the priest and nuns sit down to taste the beer from their flock. Most brew houses have a crucifix overlooking the kettles and divine thanks set into the colourful stained-glass windows. In the beer tent the atmosphere is merry. At every Oompah band chorus of Ein Prosit!, the entire community raise their mugs with the words “ hopfen und malz, Gott erhalts” (hops and malt, God preserve them) printed on them, each containing a litre of beer. By the time the verse resumes, another 1000 litres of beer will have been consumed! An amazing example of true craft beer culture.

Drayman’s Beers Altstadt Weiss Weissbier is traditionally known for its highly carbonated, refreshing character. Altstadt Weissbier has a very rocky, brightly white head deriving from a high proportion of wheat malt. I believe that the drinker himself should decide whether to enjoy his Weissbier with a slice of lemon or not. The lemon surely accentuates the crisp acidity of the wheat beer as well as visually highlighting the refreshing character of the drink. If you are familiar with the famous Weissbier brewery names like Erdinger, Paulaner, Franziskaner and Schneider to name a few, you will realize that you are in the company of seriously traditional Weissbier! You might think that it is impossible for a South African to brew this Bavarian style wheat beer - that is until you taste a tall frothy Altstadt Weissbier. Part of the secret is using the original Bavarian wheat beer yeast strain that not only defies gravity, but also imparts a faint clove and banana flavour to the beer. “Hefe” in the logo means “with yeast” and that the yeast stays in suspension, giving the beer a hazy appearance. Weissbier is a beer worthy of the title Connoisseur Beer for those who are passionate about beer.

Berghof Draught

The first Altstadt of the day should be enjoyed with a breakfast of Weisswurst on a roll. Moritz Kallmeyer - Craftbrewer

While the big-selling Pilsners in Germany are becoming blander, full-flavoured counterparts from Craft Breweries are increasingly being sought after. The smallest, the old established brewpubs of rural Bavaria, Bamberg and Franconia are a delight. Monks already brewed here in Klosterbräu Bamberg since it was founded in 1533. Its beers have great character and complexity. I think all Bavarian beer was like this when brewing was wholly an art and not only a science. Many German brewpubs specialize in beers such as unfiltered Keller or Zwickelbier and also a style identified as Obergärig Hell with its origins in the pre-lager era. A good example is Pinkus Müller Alt - in this instance Alt indicates simply an old style beer which is top fermented without suggesting anything in the lines of the Düsseldorf classics. Beers elsewhere with similarities would be English cask Pale Ale, certain Belgian Ales and of course the beerstyle unique to Köln, just across the border from Bavaria, Kölschbier. Most breweries have their own special tavern known as Ausschank where you can enjoy their beers fresh on tap. Berghof is as pale as a Pilsner but with the delicate fruitiness of an ale. Berghof is light gold in colour and clean tasting with a maltiness that is unmistakably German. A unique yeast strain imparts the flavourful character and the light body is created by the use of a dash of winter wheat malt. I follow the traditional Bayerische Braukunst involving a full programmed mash with protein-rest, conversion-rest, mashout and “vorlauf” for clarity. Single vat fermentation is employed (like a single cask Scotch Whisky) and no final blending with carbonated water is allowed at Drayman’s Brewery.

Other more modern and scientific brewing techniques like cold pitching of yeast, cold break removal and chill filtration to ensure premium quality in the trade are also employed. Berghof is only available as fresh, unpasteurized “tapbier”. To give the beer a truly South African, only local hops from the lush Outeniqua Valley in the Cape are used. Kettle hops are restrained for a soft bitterness using Southern Brewer hops. For flavour and a flowery aroma I use a new breed of hops with distant Yugoslavian origins called Southern Promise. Served cold, but definitely not freezing, with a crisp, refreshing carbonation and with only 4% alcohol, Berghof is indeed worthy ofBy theMoritz slogan: DasKallmeyer gesellige Bier! (The jovial beer.) March 2018 Fromage 55

Symbolism of Berghof There is an estate with a beautiful building called Berghof in Northern Germany, probably a half kilometre from the Danish border in the province Schleswig/Holstein. During the war it was used to station the armoured division of the S.S. It was also an agricultural college and after that changed into an old age home. For a while it was used as a customs post for the border police. Sadly it is currently used to house asylum seekers. Another, Berghof is the infamous hide-out high in the Alps which was the home of Hitler.

an honest, wholesome food from the earth, fermented to full flavour, sparkle and maturity by the miracle interaction with Gods nature.

My own invention of the name Berghof has got nothing to do with either of the above. I saw a beautiful picture of a landscape high in the Alps (Berg) with an onion domed church and a brewer tapping fresh water in a courtyard (hof) and I immediately knew then that this is a logo for one of my beers. I spent hours on the design and eventually had it computerised into graphic form to make it my own. I wanted the logo to bring back fond memories of Germany for those who lived in Germany or those who travelled the upper Bavaria area. I also wanted those who have never been to Germany to associate the Berghof logo with great German beer and the German beer culture. I also liked the coincidence of the same spelling in Afrikaans, German, Belgian and English.

The water fountain picture is symbolic of the pure, fresh water which I as brewer is dependent on to brew good beer and the availability thereof for which I am greatly thankful for.

During a bout of inspiration I came up with the symbolism (for me) of the various pictures in the logo. The onion domed church is symbolic of the monasteries as the origin of almost all beers, where beer was and still is brewed with patience, in silence and consumed with respect. The monks viewed beer, as I do today, as

The snow covered Alps is symbolic of the mountains as the giver, the provider of water in abundance, released only in its own time by the ancient rhythms of the seasons – not induced by mankind. When the ice melts it releases water which trickles down the slopes and fills the underground caves.

The man collecting water at the water fountain is symbolic of the brewer who gives most of his life to toil with nature’s most precious gifts: fire, water, malt, hops and yeast to bring to society a drink called beer, brewed on earth but made in heaven!

There is also a deeper symbolism to the name, Berghof. Money is neutral. You can take the same paper notes to buy drugs or to do well and buy a Bible. It is not the money that is evil in itself. So it is with a name as well. The name Berghof for many has a bad connotation, being the name of the home of Hitler. I would like to prove in this day that the evil associated with the name Berghof could be overridden with something as humble, honest and good as the beer that I brew with passion and pride: Berghof!

Dussel Alt To call a beer an Altbier simply because the brewer combined warm-fermentation with cold-maturation is grossly ignorant. Brewing a classic Altbier is far more complex than that. For me it was not enough just to brew an Altbier that broadly fits the category. It has been documented that imitators of the style outside Düsseldorf rarely match the beautiful balance, roundness and smoothness of these brews. It was exactly this statement that challenged me to brew the ultimate Alt - and then to constantly keep perfecting my brewer’s art until the best critics (the Düsseldorf drinkers) are speechless! Altbier is a style of German ale with its own, unique and very distinctive character. Altbier dates back to the time before the emergence of cold-fermented golden lager. The “old” (Alt) tradition of top-fermentation retained a stronghold in Northern German cities like Münster, Hanover and of course Düsseldorf. Inspired by the tasty, hoppy Altbier from the delightfully named brewpubs in the Old Town of Düsseldorf like Zum Uerige, In Füchschen and Zum Schlüssel, I set out to design an Altbier I believe is worthy of the name Düssel Altbier. My own interpretation of the meaning of the name is: faithfully brewed to the Düsseldorfer style. At Drayman’s Brewery I brew Düssel Altbier to have an appetizing and brilliantly clear copper-red colour topped by a dense, white, rocky head. Düssel Altbier has a clean, deliciously aromatic, maltiness, combined with a pronounced but not overwhelming hoppy bitterness (32 BU’S) from the noble Tettnanger hops. The fruiti56 Fromage March 2018

ness of the top fermentation is restrained by both the German yeast strain and cool fermentation. The well attenuated, dry finish is achieved by a thorough stepped infusion mash that lasts a full two and a half hours! The smooth malt palate comes from less intense cold-conditioning at 6°C for ten days. Available only as fresh unpasteurized “tapbier” and at only 4% alc. It makes for a highly sociable brew in the hot South African climate. All that remains is my quest to find the ultimate restauranteur that is willing to teach his waiters to serve the beer in the correct 250ml Altbier glass and his patrons to accept this tradition of a fresh Altbier regularly arriving at the table without the need for re-ordering. A beer mat placed on top of the glass will eventually stop the process! Moritz Kallmeyer - Craftbrewer

Goblin’s Bitter Goblin’s is brewed to be a fruity, refreshing bitter with a malty body, a good smack of spicy hop flavour and an intense mouthwatering depth of hop bitterness. The spicy, sometimes citrusy hop character derives from the liberal dose of Galena and Styrian Goldings late hopped in the kettle. No marketing man in his right mind would have ever created a beer category called Bitter, but to the educated beer-drinker the word is mouth-watering! Truly: Life’s only bitter pleasure! Goblin’s Bitter is not only unique in the sense that the yeast strain that is used was the original yeast of the Whitbread Brewery in the UK, first observed under the craftscope by Louis Pasteur in 1895. This ale was also top-fermented at warm temperatures true to the original style. If at any stage during the long years of building up Drayman’s Brewery I had serious doubts whether I would ever succeed, I would pour and savour a pint of Goblin’s to put my fears at rest!

Drinking in style! Every British pub-goer can recognize bitter, and regards it as a drink in its own right, probably unaware that it is a type of ale. Although the word “ale” is familiar enough, few Britons could define it. Nor could many offhand, name other styles of ale in Britain - though the words Mild, Pale Ale or Brown might bring a glimmer of recognition. The term Bitter did not come into vogue until the 20th century and the development of “running ales”. After World War One the term Bitter dominated. Bitter only overtook Mild in sales after World War Two. Brewers today mark the difference between bitter and pale ale in their bottled versions of draught beer. Light Ale is the bottled version of ordinary bitter of up to 4% alcohol, while Pale Ale is the bottled version of a Best Bitter of more than 4% alcohol. The terms IPA, Pale Ale and Bitter are used interchangeably by certain beer writers and breweries - they certainly are not; each is a style of ale in its own right. Micheal Jackson comments: “to me it seems that Pale Ale was a refined term for the table or the cocktail bar, while Bitter sounded like a down-to-earth draught for the boys in the boozer.”

Goblin’s Bitter is, at the time of writing, the only beer brewed locally that closely resembles the hearty, traditional bitter ales from the countryside of Britain - especially the region of Ruddles County - which provided me with the inspiration to brew Goblin’s. Fortunately for the lover of real Bitter there are still the small stubborn craft brewers worldwide and a few traditional English brewers who insist in brewing “bursting with flavour” Bitter. These craft brewers ignore the mega trend of brewing watered down, flavourless, caramel coloured and “less bitter” products, monotonously turned out by the mega brewers, supposedly for the sake of the new generation soda pop weaned youth. No wonder most have scrapped the word Bitter from their insipid ales. In the beer world, bland ale with a “wonder where it is” hop character should not be called a Bitter - neither for that matter should Australian mega brewers with no clue about the origins of Bitter call their over hopped cold fermented lagers a Bitter. The title Bitter truly belongs to ale of great character and complexity with a depth of hop bitterness which not only taste and look like the original English Bitter, but is brewed like one.

Jolly Monk Rachbier Jolly Monk is a Bamberger style Rauchbier (smoked beer), with a soft but insistent smokiness and a rich, treacle-toffee finish. The smoked malt is imported from Bamberg, Germany - the Rauchbier capital of the world. The beer is brewed from a gravity of 1043 and fermented at cool temperatures. It emerges with an alcohol content of 4% by volume. Jolly Monk has a deep ruby colour, not quite opaque, a medium body and fruity, bittersweet palate. Being brewed with a combination of Black Malt, Amber Malt, Smoked Malt, Caramel Malt and three varieties of hops, Jolly Monk has no difficulty in being a delicious, flavourful beer. Available from the 1st of May each year throughout the colder months to be enjoyed as a winter-warmer. Savour with a smoked ham snack. March 2018 Fromage 57

Letzter Wunsch Helles In my opinion there should be no beer category called “light”! The word implies nothing of value in either taste or drinking pleasure. Letzter Wunsch Helles however bursts with flavour! In medieval times small beer or table beer was the everyday quencher, drank throughout the day while working in the fields and at the supper table, instead of water. Even the children in the orphanages were allowed a pint each of beer per day to supplement their diet because of its obvious nutritional value. The beers must have been tasty in those days because the most frequent “Letzter Wunsch” (Last Wish) if you were to be sent to lose your head on the chopping block, was a large mug of BEER! Letzter Wunsch is mashed, boiled, fermented, cold matured, filtered and packed as a full-fledged beer of only 2.5% ABV. At no stage is the final beer diluted with water to a lower alcohol percentage, as is the commercial practise when producing (not brewing!) light beers. Pure barley malt, a hefty dose of Crystal malt for caramel sweetness, much more than a kiss of three hop varieties, yeast and soft water from Drayman’s own borehole supply, makes up the unique recipe in the style of a Munich Helles.

Letzter Wunsch is a beer ”fully brewed” to only 2.5% ABV, without any water dilution as is the commercial practise for light beers. It reflects the true art in German brewing tradition of creating malty, hoppy beers, of full flavour, without the headache of high alcohol.

Emperor I.P.A Confusing, to say the least and an often misinterpreted beer style is India Pale Ale (IPA). This style of ale is now also popularised in South Africa amidst the offerings of numerous Craft Breweries. It was brewed originally in the UK by English brewers to be exported for the consumption of thirsty English troops during the colonisation of India in 1772 for a brief 30 years. It thus meant “a keeping beer” brewed to withstand a sea journey and a bitterness that would have made them undrinkable, save for the fact that the beer softened during the long sea journey Let me immediately state that none of the beers brewed nowadays by a modern generation of Craft brewers are per definition anything close to the original India Beer from the Hodgson’s brewery. We might try our best to emulate and even come close to the hop profile or the colour – even the alcohol level and malty ness we may be able to duplicate. But, we fail miserably to capture the nostalgia and flavour of a beer filled in 54 gallon wooden hogsheads, stored in the dark and damp ship’s hull, rocking for close to 3 months while at some point enduring the unforgiving Cape of Storms and fluctuation sea temperatures, before reaching its hot and humid destination. What is remarkable is that the beer was still expected to reach the marketplace in good condition where it was scrutinised by expert tasters before coming under the hammer. Pale Ale was a modified version of IPA, brewed for quick consumption in the British Isles with a lower alcohol level and greatly reduced hop bitterness – but it is an abuse of history to call them India Pale Ales. Perhaps the true qualifying criteria should be that no beer be called an IPA unless it could withstand a long sea journey in a wooden cask. 58 Fromage March 2018

Secondly, India Pale Ale should have an enormous hop character – not only from a solid punch of hop bitterness in the upper 30’s or 40’s, but also in hop flavour and aroma that could verge on being resiny. An IPA should be burnished gold colour as opposed to the copper red “modern” IPA’s. This immediately exposes the beginner brewers who misinterprets the style and whose beers taste overly sweet due to the overuse of crystal malt which was not widely available in the heyday of IPA. For the lover of real IPA, nothing quite satisfies like the domination of pungent hops on the palate and the long, intense bitter finish.

Website: Office Tel: 012 804 8800 Moritz Cell : 082 787 9136 E-mail: Address: 222 Dykor Road, Silverton, Pretoria, 0184

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Le Fromage des

You will know when you have found the perfect Meaux - It is smooth, voluptuous and not quite runny. 60 Fromage March 2018


The aroma is that of mushrooms with the merest hint of ammonia and the taste is of creamy wild mushroom soup with a dash of sherry.

Brie de Meaux France is land of many cheeses… but if you were asked to name a French cheese, you would probably say Camembert or Brie. These two cheeses although both creamy soft cheeses, are totally distinct from one another! Camembert is from Normandy… and Brie comes from the area it is named after, located east of Paris. There are two well known Brie : One is from Meaux, and one from Melun. The production area of Brie de Meaux lays about 50 km east of Paris. Brie de Meaux is an ancient cheese. The oldest evidence is found in the chronicles of Charlemagne. The Emperor tasted the cheese in the small city of Brie in the year 774. During the French Revolution, Louis XVI’s last wish was supposedly for a final taste of Brie. In 1814, the Prince de Talleyrand organized a European tournament during the Congress of Vienna. Brie de Meaux was awarded the first prize and declared “Le Roi des Fromages” ( The King of Cheeses) and “Le fromage des Rois” (Cheese fit for Kings). Of the many types, Brie de Meaux is probably the finest, and most widely the best known. Brie making: About 25 litres of pasteurized cow’s milk are needed to make one Brie de Meaux cheese. According to tradition, the cheese is cast manually with the help of a “pelle à brie” (perforated ladle/shovel). The cheese is then salted, exclusively with dry salt. The shape is a wheel of 35 to 37cm in diameter and weighing approximately 2.8 kg, it is sold as is on straw, not in paper.

Genuine Brie de Meaux has a prominent “terroir” smell. The golden yellow paste is quite smooth and creamy on the tongue, richly flavoured with hints of hazelnut and fruit. There are other versions of Brie, Brie de Meaux should not be mistaken for the stronger and saltier Brie de Melun.

Melun brie has very ancient origins and is often considered to be the ancestor of all varieties of brie cheese. Old manuscripts even suggest that it existed before the Roman invasion. The writer La Fontaine (1621-1695) included Brie de Melun in his fable “The Fox and the Crow”: the crow holds a brie in his beak! Formerly the cheese was made on farms, but these days small dairies have taken over production while preserving the old farm traditions of production and ripening. Production: Producing Brie de Melun involves long and careful technique. The cheese maker working with raw milk has to adapt his preparation data every day, depending on the season, weather, temperature, animals’ diet… Brie de Melun is slow-drained cheese made by pressure-formed curd which undergoes a coagulation process of at least 18 hours. Moulding is done manually with a ladle in moulds 12 cm high and 27 cm in diameter. They are

62 Fromage March 2018

turned several times a day to promote drainage. The resulting curd is very fragile and must be handled with extreme care. It is salted on both sides on subsequent days. The ripening process lasts at least 4 weeks in a cellar at a temperature of about 10° C (, but perfect ripening requires at least 7 to 8 weeks.

Serving: Brie: is usually purchased either in a full wheel or as

a wheel segment. Slices are taken along the radius of the cheese rather than across the point. Removing the more desirable tip from a wedge of brie is known as “pointing the Brie” and is widely regarded as a serious social faux pas. The best way to serve Brie cheese is to allow it to come to room temperature and is best eaten with country bread or baguette. Accompany Brie with a red Côte-du-Rhône, a red Bordeaux or Burgundy. Befitting the cheese of kings, Brie de Meaux is also very friendly with a good Champagne.

AOC This means “protected designation of origin” Both Melun and Meaux Brie can use this label, a French designation granted to certain French geographical indications for wines, cheese, butters and other agricultural products. This guarantees that the cheeses are made in that area.

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Brie en Croute Loosely place one round of puff pastry in a tart or pie pan. Place the wheel of Brie on top, then spread the jam on top of this and a bit on the pastry. Sprinkle with the almonds and place the other pastry round on top. Roll the edges of the pastry rounds together to seal them.

Bake at 375°F or 190°C for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow the pastry to cool for just a bit before slicing and serving. This should be served and eaten straight away, although you can warm leftovers in the microwave (watch out, it reheats very quickly).

Visit Seine-et-Marne

What to do in Seine-et-Marne?

Meaux, capital of Brie

The heart of the Middle Ages… An imposing medieval castle, or incredible towns… Come to Seine-et-Marne to relive the feudal era!

When you go to Meaux, you will discover one of the last wellpreserved Episcopal Cities in France. A remarkable architectural ensemble, built between the 12th and 17th centuries, with its imposing cathedral, a panorama of all the gothic styles, its old chapter house, the former Bishop’s Palace or the Bossuet garden designed by the famous landscape architect Le Nôtre, in the form of a mitre. But you must not leave Meaux without tasting its cheese, appreciated all over the world: Brie!

“Cité médiévale” / medieval town of Provins As you visit this medieval town, you will discover fortified gates, city walls, the lower halls, the underground galleries, and the merchants’ houses… Provins, the former capital of the Earls of Champagne and a town renowned for its fairs, listed as UNESCO’s World Heritage Site, will tell the tale of all the aspects of medieval life. Every day, breathtaking shows await you: the “Aigles des Remparts” (Eagles on the ramparts), an amazing show with birds of prey to introduce you to the world of falconry; the “Légende des chevaliers” (legend of the knights), a fantastic show of chivalry full of sensations and excitement; “Au temps des remparts” (In the time of the ramparts), a show of medieval war machines or “Arkhangaï, les cavaliers des steppes”, (riders of the steppes) a daring horse show!

Le Château de Blandy les Tours Unique in Ile-de-France! Opened in 2007 and recently restored, this impressive 14th century fortress majestically reveals its towers, keep, castle walls and parapet walks. An original visit which will take you right to the heart of one of the last examples of medieval and military architecture in the region.

For information on France, tourist attractions log on to www. or send an email to news.

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Raw Honey By Caroline Whitehead

From dusty Acacia honey through to delicately well-rounded Veld Flower honey, South Africa, with its vast geographical and climatic variations, Some is plentiful and found from early spring to late autumn. I think of Bluegum or Eucalyptus honey with its distinct full-bodied and aroma – heavy flavour. It comes in almost the full spectre of honey-colours, which is not surprising when you think of the number of different types of bluegum growing from Cape Town to the borders of Botswana. Each has its own subtle taste, but all have a distinctly Eucalyptus undertone.

weather. Lavender is pollen rich but has little nectar so the soft brown honey from lavender plants is seldom found.

Others are highly localized – I think of the dark, heavy, and aromatic honey from the Eastern Cape Coastal Forests, the strongly flavoured Fynbos honey of the Western Cape.

To extract liquid honey, the wax cappings, which seal the honey into each cell, are removed with a cappings- fork or a knife. The honey is then spun out of the combs in a centrifugal spinner, left to settle in a settling tank for a few days to allow all the air bubbles to rise, and bottled. Various degrees of filtration make take place between spinning and bottling.

There are rare honeys too – The pepper tree yields an amber coloured, strong and slightly peppery honey, but only in very hot

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Honey is sold in many forms: as comb or bottled.

has an abundant and diverse range of honeys. Those in the know go to a great deal of trouble to find their favourite pot of nectar. Raw Honey Raw Honey is honey that has not been heated above 38 - 40 degrees - the temperature at which the hive is maintained by the bees. It is not mechanically sieved, so all the pollens are still in it, with a little wax, and maybe, just maybe, if you are lucky , you will get a bee’s knee in yours too ...

Crystallized Honey It is true that the honey found in Tutenkhamen’s tomb was perfectly edible – albeit crystalised into small hard crystals, like amber or gemstones.

All honey will crystallize, some quicker than others, some very smoothly , some more coarsely. The sugar combinations of the nectars and the ambient temperatures affect the rate of crystallization. Do not store your honey in the refridgerator, as honey will crystallize most quickly at between 3 and 8 degrees. Keeping it in the freezer will delay crystallization although the honey will get very thick. Once it has crystallized, just keep eating it, or if you like, stand it in a bowl of hot water until it is liquid again. You may have to do this a few times to get it fully liquid. Do not put it in the microwave as you will destroy some of the goodness!

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Creamed Honey Creamed honey is crystallized honey that has been ground up or pulverized until all the crystals are rounded and smoothed and the texture is creamy, soft and spreadable.

Processed Honey Most shop honey is heated to around 68 degrees, to make it as thin as water, so that it can then be mechanically filtered to remove even tiny air bubbles. This is done so that there is nothing for crystals to form around, and delays crystallization considerably. However in the process the pollens are removed, many vitamins and enzymes are destroyed, and a lot of the health benefits of honey are lost, as well as much of the flavour and aromas!

Comb Honey Honeycomb is best eaten on fresh bread or toast, to experience the crispiness of the wax flakes as well as the sweetness of the honey in ones mouth. If eaten just with a spoon the wax will tend to form a ball in the mouth, to be chewed or sucked on until the last vestige of sweetness is gone. Don’t spit it out – the wax is really good for both your digestion and your skin. The comb is made of beeswax which the bees secrete from glands in their sides, after gorging themselves on honey. They can only do this when there is an abundance of food (flowers). They can 68 Fromage March 2018

produce roughly 1kg of comb or 10 kg of honey for the same amount of work. Honeycomb is also more expensive than bottled honey as the comb is returned to the bees time and again after being spun out. They will repair it where necessary and refill it. Honeycomb can be cut into strips and put into bottles, surrounded by spun honey. This is called “Chunk Honey”

Honey - and Cheese Almost every country has a special name for it, and a place in its oldest recipe books. Hot or cold, the combination is irresistible. To start a meal, try roasting some goatsmilk cheese until just golden, drizzle with honey, add a sprinkle of fresh chopped thyme and a grind of black pepper, and serve immediately. To make a meal, start with local honey and your favourite cheese, and then whatever else you can find… To end a meal, take a soft ricotta, drizzle honey over it generously, add some crushed nuts and a little fresh honeycomb for texture. Close your eyes, take a spoonful of the above, and the belief is that you will get a taste of heaven.

Contact Details

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