magazine AU T U M N - W I N T E R 2013
J E R U S A L E M A R T I C H O K E CO M B O
TRENDSET TER FOR CHEFS
INTERIOR DESIGNER LIEVEN MUSSCHOOT, ON RESTAURANT DESIGNS GEBROEDERS HARTERING: ‘NOUVELLE ROUGH’ TRENDSETTERS IN AMSTERDAM TIPS & TRICKS AND FRESH NEW RECIPES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY SEASON CREATIONS
IN THIS ISSUE
Feature Interior designer Lieven Musschoot
p. 4 - 9
EDITING, DESIGN AND PRODUCTION
Saddle of hare with a civet of hare, celeriac purée, polenta and red cabbage sauce
p. 10 - 11
Jerusalem artichoke combo
p. 12 - 13
Citrus tart with goat’s cheese ice cream and pistachio couscous p. 14 - 15 Smoked and poached oysters
p. 16 - 17
A fellow chef in the spotlight Gebroeders Hartering, Amsterdam
p. 18 - 21
Tips & tricks for your Holiday Season creations with Debic Mousse au Chocolat p. 22 - 25
Published by FrieslandCampina Professional Grote Baan 34, B-3560 Lummen, Belgium. Tel.: +32 (0) 13 310 310 email@example.com www.debic.com Editorial Board Tom van Meulebrouck, Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Eva Lekens, Ine Roose, Alessia Brambilla Recipes Gebroeders Hartering Tom van Meulebrouck André van Dongen Photography Kasper van ’t Hoff Koen Van Damme (photos of Lieven Musschoot)
Techniques Festive creams prepared with Debic Culinaire Original
p. 26 - 27
Design and production Dallas Antwerp Copyright 2013 No part of this publication may be reproduced or copied without the prior permission of the publisher.
Left: Tom van Meulebrouck, Culinary Advisor, Debic Right: Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Pastry Chef, Debic
How do you create an experience? The year 2013 will probably not go on record as a major turning point in the economic crisis. Many industries continue to struggle, and success in the restaurant industry remains elusive. However, some establishments seem to have an easier time than others in staying afloat, and they even manage to post excellent profits. So what’s the secret of their appeal? What is it about these places that makes their customers happy to pay for the privilege of dining there – and even come back for more? This issue of Debic Magazine explores several aspects of this appeal. “The message needs to be just right”, interior designer Lieven Musschoot told us, and you’ll find out just what he means by reading his interview and by checking out his highly acclaimed restaurant designs. Musschoot believes the places that thrive are those that create a special experience – in whatever form – for their guests. ‘Special’ is certainly one way to describe Amsterdam-based restaurant Gebroeders Hartering. Their groundbreaking ‘Nouvelle Rough’ cuisine has wowed the trade press and food blogs alike with its renewed sense of fun, strong flavours and – above all – top-quality products. The two brothers who own the restaurant like to conquer their guests’ hearts time after time. ‘We’ll kill you with niceness’, they like to say. Consider yourself warned! This issue naturally also contains plenty of inspiration for the Holiday Season, that time of year when you get to use your talent and creativity in the kitchen even more. In keeping with tradition, we are therefore presenting several inspiring recipes and revealing the technique behind today’s touch of extra creativity: creams (crèmes). We will also show you how to use a high-quality chocolate mousse to create all kinds of festive desserts, all with your own personal signature. For even more ideas and inspiration, check out our brand-new blog, debicblog.com, which is updated every week. Happy Holidays! The Debic Team
“Every restaurant is a total experience where everything’s connected. The message While it takes some interior designers years before they start getting offers from the big names in the industry, interior designer Lieven Musschoot was hired by leading Dutch chef Sergio Herman almost right away. He designed Herman’s two restaurants ‘Oud Sluis’ and ‘Resto Bar Pure C’ in 2009 and 2010, respectively. The projects launched him on an impressive career path. His book ‘Restaurant Designs’, published in 2012, showcases 16 recent projects which, although all different, do reveal a clear signature style. We caught up with Lieven on the turf of his namesake Lieven Vynck of ‘Restaurant Lieven’ in Bruges. Of Vynck, he says: “He pours his heart and soul into his cooking, and that’s how I work, too.” Lieven, Bruges (Belgium)
“I learned as a child that dining out is one of life’s great pleasures.”
When we meet interior designer Lieven Musschoot, BAAR in Ghent has just officially opened, with lots of coverage in the food press and blogosphere. It’s a new dining spot, with a nod to Andy Warhol’s Factory in New York. Around 11 PM every night, the bar/restaurant is transformed, as if by magic, into a trendy dance club. Lieven: “The place was conceived by David Hannon, who’s just 26 years old. He knew exactly what he wanted and came up with plans himself. I think that’s probably the best way to go about it.”
F E AT U R E
“People are still willing to spend money, but they do expect something exceptional in return.”
needs to be just right.” Both young entrepreneurs and experienced restaurateurs now hire Lieven when they want to give their business a unique look and feel. Lieven does not have a fancy office in which to receive his clients, preferring instead to visit them on site, have a look around, get a feel for the place, and, most importantly, to listen. “Most people have a specific idea in their head of what they want. My job is to ‘get inside’ those ideas and translate them into colours and scents, chairs and tables, etc. In other words, I create a specific mood.”
Oud Sluis, Sluis (The Netherlands) Oud Sluis, Sluis (The Netherlands)
LIEVEN’S ROOTS We learn that Lieven had his first restaurant experience at a young age. His father was a renowned architect, and the Musschoot family, who lived in the seaside town of Knokke, regularly dined out at De Siphon in Damme. Lieven: “That restaurant was an institution even back then, and I’ve felt ever since that going out to eat is one of life’s great pleasures.” Even though – or perhaps because – Lieven was a picky eater,
Oud Sluis, Sluis (The Netherlands)
he taught himself to cook at a young age, sticking to the basics, such as spaghetti. He always retained an interest in all things food-related, and, as it turns out, his entire life now revolves around food. Lieven: “I was initially interested in pursuing a career as an artist, maybe becoming a painter. But my father told me I wouldn’t be able to make a living at it, so I enrolled in an interior design course at the Sint-Lucas Academy of Fine Arts in Ghent. I didn’t find a position I liked right away, and was offered a job at a seafood restaurant specializing in eel and mussels. I ended up staying there for eight years, working both as a waiter and in the kitchen. The work could be challenging, but I enjoyed it, and it taught me a lot about people. Getting a degree in hotel management is on my to-do list – if I ever get the time (laughs).”
HIS FIRST BREAK When chef Sergio Herman visited the ‘Kingin’ jewellery shop in Bruges, he was so taken with the store’s design that he asked Lieven to redesign his own Michelin-starred restaurant in Sluis in the Netherlands. It was a golden opportunity and one that launched Lieven’s career in the restaurant world. He achieved success in spite but also because of the economic crisis, because people still like to dine out and are willing to spend money on it, but they do expect an exceptional experience in return. Interior designers such as Lieven play a key role in helping to create that experience.
“The challenge is always in tuning into the client’s ideas and taking it from there.”
Lieven: “A good restaurant is a total experience, one where all the elements come together to either make or break that experience.” Or, as the food critic Agnes Goyvaerts put it in her introduction to Lieven’s book, Restaurant Designs: “It’s not just what you put on people’s plates that matters, as the people who run the Michelin Guide have been saying for some years now. The overall look and feel – including sound, light, colour, scent and setting – must be impeccable too.”
HIS MIX He continues: “Enjoying an experience involves all the senses: hearing, sight, touch, smell and taste, and that’s true for an interior design as well. I think having eye-catching elements is important, but the place should also have a certain ‘tactile’ quality to it – it has to feel good. I’m always looking for new materials and components; that’s a permanent source of inspiration and innovation for me. You can get away with a lot, as long as it blends in with the overall design. I like to refer to it as my ‘perfect harmony’ palette.” On entering Restaurant Lieven in Bruges, the visitor’s attention is immediately drawn to the long wall decorated
Lieven, Bruges (Belgium)
F E AT U R E
“Aandacht voor functionaliteit is beter voor het personeel.”
Brasserie Nieuwpoort, Nieuwpoort (Belgium)
with bits of recycled marble that makes you want to reach out and touch it. The shiny, artfully painted tables and chairs on the first floor have the same effect. You can tell a ‘Musschoot interior’ by the sometimes daring, but always harmonious ‘mix and match’ approach. He obviously also puts a lot of thought into the lighting as well, like at BAAR, where Delta light fixtures and surgical lights set the scene. Lieven: “I usually recommend that people use adjustable, dimmable lighting, as they can then change the mood depending on whether it’s daytime or nighttime. The type of lighting you use and the colour temperature also make a big difference.” Lieven won a Red Dot Design Award for his Skyline LED lights (Dark).
There are so many messages, so many moods. The sheer variety of Lieven’s projects reveals the close relationships he enjoys with his clients. It’s clear that he’s not a cookie-cutter designer, and although he does have a distinct, signature style, it’s subtle enough that only those in the know can spot it (and he does have quite a few devotees in the meantime). “The same, yet always different.” He believes designers should leave their egos at the door when they take on a project. So do his clients always have good ideas? Lieven: “Most of my clients have good taste” (laughs). “I always see it as a challenge to add my own vision to my client’s ideas and take it from there. We also need to click on a personal level, since we’re going to be working closely together for 6 to 8 months.”
H I S M AT C H Since a restaurant is a total experience, Lieven also has a total vision. Lieven: “Up to and including the water bottles, the website and the business cards, everything must be in harmony, and the message must be just right.”
While clients do get to provide input, sooner or later decisions need to be made. “Someone needs to say ‘yes, we’ll go with that, but we’ll strike that’. Although harmony is important, that doesn’t mean you can’t blend different styles.”
LIEVEN’S PERSONAL TOP 3 Hof van Cleve, Kruishoutem, Belgium: “I had a wonderful dinner there; when I left I was really impressed by the whole experience. The prices were reasonable too. There’s a nice informality about the place, and the hostess is a sweetheart.” Siphon, Damme, Belgium: “This is a real bastion of tradition in the Belgian restaurant scene with eel as their specialty. I still enjoy going there after all these years.” De Kromme Watergang, Hoofdplaat, the Netherlands: “The fish, crustaceans and shellfish they serve are prepared very naturally. The chef’s a real magician. It’s a very wholesome type of cuisine, which I like.” Tom’s Diner, Bruges (Belgium)
HIS MUSTS When designing a restaurant, the only thing that’s more important than atmosphere is functionality. That’s because the dining area is not just the place where the guests are received and enjoy a pleasant evening; it’s also a workspace for the staff. Lieven: “The integration of the dining area and the kitchen, the number of steps that waiters have to take or the location of the china cabinets: those are all important factors to consider. I sometimes visit large restaurants where the layout and organization are all wrong. Those kinds of places end up with a really bad atmosphere and demotivated staff. A good layout shows respect for your employees – for the dishwasher as much as the sommelier. I think that’s definitely the way to go.”
HIS FUTURE Does Lieven have any plans to expand his own business? “I work with two other people, but that’s it. I’m very cautious when it comes to growth. These are tough times, after all, and besides, I’m not interested in growing my business just to earn more money.” Just one bold question before we say goodbye: does a restaurant need to be designed by a professional designer? “No, not at all – not everything needs to be trendy or upscale either. I love a good fish and chip shop, and this late-night Italian restaurant in Knokke, and there’s also a traditional Belgian pub I like to visit, where you’re served by a 76-year-old lady. I’d like to do the interior for a place like that someday.” We, for one, can’t wait to see the result!
Cuines 33, Knokke-Heist (Belgium)
F E AT U R E
Burg 9, Bruges (Belgium)
“I like the tactile quality of materials.”
Ben’s, Brasschaat (Belgium)
Tête Pressée, Bruges (Belgium)
A SELECTION OF LIEVEN’S PROJECTS FOR 2013 • • • • • • • • •
De Kruidenmolen, Klemskerke (Stijn Bauwens) Bistro Neuta, Leut (Alex Clevers) Charlie’s Lunchroom, Nieuwpoort (Ronnie Jonckman) Flavie’s Tafel, Nieuwpoort Resto Lewis, Hoogstraten De Warande private club, Brussels Anderlecht School of Hotel Management Club 50 for KAA Ghent ’t Apertje, Damme
Nominated for the German Design Award 2014.
The photographs were taken by Koen Van Damme and were selected from ‘Restaurant Designs’, publisher: Stichting Kunstboek, 2012. For more information, please visit www.lievenmusschoot.be.
INGREDIENTS Recipe ser ves 10 Saddle of hare 1500 g saddle of hare 100 ml Debic Roast & Fry 200 g sourdough bread 200 g smoked bacon 10 g parsley
Saddle of of hare
Civet of hare 1000 g haunch of hare 100 ml Debic Roast & Fry 200 ml Shiraz wine 250 g smoked bacon 200 g chanterelles 150 g carrots 200 g celeriac
The rich flavour of hare is a perfect ingredient for the winter months. This recipe is a traditional preparation of the various parts of the hare, but presented in a contemporary style.
50 g shallots 50 g parsley 500 ml fond of game 500 ml Debic Culinaire Original
Method Celeriac purée 500 g celeriac
SADDLE OF HARE
20 ml Debic Roast & Fry
Clean the hare and remove the legs. Use these for the civet and reserve the saddle to roast to order at a later stage. Cut the smoked bacon and sourdough bread into very fine pieces. Roast both ingredients until crispy and drain on some paper towels. Cut the parsley into small julienne pieces and set aside for later use.
200 ml poultry stock 300 ml Debic Culinaire Original 70 g butter
Polenta 600 g polenta 2000 ml poultry stock
CIVET OF HARE
200 g Parmesan cheese
2 g salt
Roast the legs in Debic Roast & Fry until brown all over. Cut all the vegetables and bacon into fine pieces. Add the bacon, carrot and celeriac, followed by the chanterelles and shallots. Deglaze with the Shiraz wine and add the fond of game. Cook for a full hour, then remove the legs from the sauce. Cut the meat into very fine pieces and reduce the sauce by half. Add the meat and Debic Culinaire Original to the sauce. Cook over low heat for another 20 minutes and set aside in the refrigerator.
Cut the celeriac into very small pieces and sauté in Debic Roast & Fry. Add the Debic Culinaire Original and poultry stock and cook in the cream. Place in the fine cutter together with the butter. Pass through a fine sieve and season with salt.
200 g butter 10 g salt
Red cabbage sauce 500 g red cabbage 5
dl apple juice
50 ml Debic Roast & Fry
Finish 10 g micro-rocket 100 g mustard
P O L E N TA
100 g hare’s blood
Cook the polenta in the poultry stock for 30 minutes and season with the Parmesan cheese, butter and salt. Pour into a dish and allow to cool. Cut into square cubes and store in the refrigerator.
10 ml Debic Roast & Fry
hare with a civet celeriac purée, polenta, red cabbage sauce and caramelized onions RED CABBAGE SAUCE
Cut the red cabbage into pieces and process in the blender. Set aside 3 dl of the juice. Reduce the apple juice to 1 dl and mix with the red cabbage juice. Reduce to the desired thickness and season with salt.
Clean the onions and seal vacuum together with the Debic Roast & Fry. Cook in the microwave at full power for one minute and cool immediately. Cut lengthwise and set the leaves aside. Caramelize with a crème brûlée torch.
Finish Roast the saddle of hare on the carcass in Debic Roast & Fry and continue to cook in the oven. Baste with the cooking fat if needed. Remove the meat from the carcass with a knife. Rub the top with some mustard and drag through the bacon, bread and parsley mixture. Carve and keep warm under the salamander. Spread the celeriac purée onto the plate. Heat the civet of hare and thicken with the hare’s blood. Pour the civet into a small container. Bake or fry the polenta and season to taste. Arrange the sauce and meat on the plate and finish with caramelized onions and micro-rocket.
Jerusalem This is a creative vegetarian dish based on two ingredients that are presented on the plate in different textures. With sumptuous gourmet vegetables like these, who needs meat? Surprise your customers with this festive dish!
INGREDIENTS Recipe ser ves 10
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE CREAM Cook the peeled Jerusalem artichokes in the stock and the Debic Culinaire Original. Purée in the blender and mix with the butter. Pass through a fine sieve and season with salt.
Jerusalem artichoke cream
STEWED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
100 ml poultry stock
Peel the artichokes and cut into pieces. Pierce with a round plug and stew in the poultry stock and butter until tender.
Stewed Jerusalem artichokes
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE CRISPS
400 ml poultry stock
Peel the Jerusalem artichokes and cut into thin pieces with the cutting machine. Wash and dry thoroughly and deep-fry in some sunflower oil at 180˚C until crispy.
200 g butter
400 ml Debic Culinaire Original 150 g butter 500 g Jerusalem artichokes, peeled
500 g Jerusalem artichokes
Jerusalem artichoke crisps 100 g Jerusalem artichokes
CRUDITÉ OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE Crudité of Jerusalem artichoke
Cut the artichokes into thin julienne pieces. Cook the other ingredients together and pour over the Jerusalem artichokes. Store in the refrigerator.
ml white wine vinegar
ml sugar water
1 g salt
Clean the artichokes and cook them in a generous amount of water together with the lemon juice. Allow the artichokes to cool and remove the leaves. Dry the leaves at 60˚C for one hour and deep-fry in some sunflower oil at 180˚C until crispy.
100 g Jerusalem artichokes
0,5 g coriander seeds 0,5 g star anise
Artichokes 20 artichokes
Finish Halve the artichokes and sauté together with the mushrooms in Debic Roast & Fry until brown on both sides. Season with salt. Heat the Jerusalem artichoke cream and drizzle a stripe across the plate. Heat the stewed Jerusalem artichoke and place on top of the cream. Top the dish with the crudité, artichokes, mushrooms, crisps and Indian cress leaves.
Finish 200 g mixed mushrooms 10 ml Debic Roast & Fry 40 g salt 20
Indian cress leaves
Citrus tart with cream and
INGREDIENTS Recipe ser ves 10 Crust 500 g biscuit slices
Wild lemon crème brûlée 1 l Debic Crème Brûlée Bourbon 20
g wild lemon zest
Panna cotta 500 ml Debic Panna Cotta
100 g sour cream
CRUST Mandarin jelly 400 g mandarin purée 100 ml sugar water (1:1) 5
g gelatin sheets
Use rings with a diameter of 12 cm to cut 10 biscuit slices and leave the crust inside the ring. Make another, 8 cm diameter ring inside and leave there. Store in the freezer to allow the crusts and rings to cool down.
WILD LEMON CRÈME BRÛLÉE
130 g bergamot purée
Bring the Debic Crème Brûlée Bourbon and wild lemon zest to a boil and allow to infuse over low heat for 10 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve and divide the crème brûlée among the biscuit crusts. Set aside in the refrigerator.
g protein powder
30 g sugar 30
g confectioner’s sugar
Goat’s cheese ice cream
PA N N A C O T TA
550 ml whole milk
Melt the Debic Panna Cotta, mix with the sour cream and cool to room temperature. Arrange on top of the crème brûlée once this has fully set, and then place back in the refrigerator.
100 ml Debic Cream 35% 200 g soft goat’s cheese 160 g granulated sugar 25
g skimmed milk powder
150 g maltodextrin
5 g stabilizer
Heat the mandarin purée together with the sugar water and add the pre-soaked gelatin. Bring back to room temperature and arrange on top of the firmed panna cotta. Place back in the refrigerator.
Pistachio couscous 100 g pistachios 10
ml sugar water
BERGAMOT MERINGUE Finish 2
punnet lime cres
Whisk the bergamot purée and protein powder together until foamy. Add the sugar and the confectioner’s sugar and continue beating for another few minutes. Squirt into small caps and dry in the oven or airing cabinet at 60˚C for 6 hours.
goat’s cheese ice pistachio couscous Citrus fruits are perfect as a refreshing dessert in the Holiday Season. We present a delicious citrus tart based on the various Debic Desserts, served with fresh goat’s cheese ice cream.
G O AT ’ S C H E E S E I C E C R E A M
P I S TA C H I O C O U S C O U S
Mix the stabilizer with the maltodextrin and add sugar. Heat the milk, the Debic Cream 35% and dry ingredients to 60˚C, until all ingredients have dissolved. Add the goat’s cheese last and combine into an even mixture. Churn the ice cream for 10 minutes and freeze at -21˚C.
Crush the pistachios and mix with the sugar water until you have a couscous texture.
Finish Release the cake by briefly heating the cake rings with the gas jet and arrange on the plates. Top off the dish with the bergamot meringue, fresh blood orange, pistachio couscous and lime cress. Make a quenelle of goat’s cheese ice cream to accompany the dish.
Two festive oyster recipes
Oysters are a perennial favourite during the Holiday Season. You may choose to prepare them the traditional way, or you can get a little more creative. We are presenting two special oyster recipes based on different preparation methods: poached and smoked.
INGREDIENTS Recipe ser ves 10
with spinach and chicken liver-miso-mousseline, shimeji and micro-rocket.
400 g chicken livers 20
g colorozo salt
100 ml Oloroso sherry
100 ml poultry stock 200 g egg yolks
200 g butter
Pickle the chicken liver overnight in the colorozo salt. Reduce the Oloroso sherry by half and add the poultry stock. Reduce to 100 ml. Remove from the heat and add the egg yolks. Pour into a thermal blender along with the chicken livers and red miso. Place in the cutter at 80°C for 20 minutes and pass through a fine sieve. Mix with the butter and cool in some ice water. Whisk the Debic Cream 35% until foamy and mix with the chicken liver mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
g red miso
200 ml Debic Cream 35% 1
g white pepper
2 g salt
200 g spinach
50 g butter
Shuck the oysters with a knife and set aside in their juices. Sauté the spinach in some butter and arrange inside the oyster shells. Poach the oysters for two minutes and arrange on top of the spinach.
Finish 100 g shimeji mushrooms 20 g micro-rocket
Finish Cover with a dollop of chicken liver mousseline and briefly sautéd shimeji mushrooms and garnish with the micro-rocket.
INGREDIENTS Recipe ser ves 10
Jerusalem artichoke cream and stewed Jerusalem artichoke 400 ml Debic Culinaire Original
Smoked in hay with Jerusalem artichoke cream and stewed Jerusalem artichokes, seaweed pickle, oyster remoulade and oyster crackers.
150 g butter 500 g Jerusalem artichokes 400 ml poultry stock 5 g salt
Seaweed pickle 100 g Dulse seaweed
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE CREAM AND STEWED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE Peel two Jerusalem artichokes and cut them into pieces. Pierce them with a round plug and stew in 200 ml of poultry stock and 100 g of butter until tender. Cook the remaining Jerusalem artichokes in the remaining stock and Debic Culinaire Original. Pulse in the blender and mix with the butter. Pass through a fine sieve if needed and season to taste.
g white soy sauce
g sushi vinegar
Oyster remoulade 400 ml Debic Culinaire Original 100 ml poultry stock 5 oysters 25
g leaf parsley
S E AW E E D P I C K L E
g sea lettuce
Wash the seaweed, rinse off the salt and marinate in the soy sauce and vinegar.
g oyster leaf
Briefly blanch the leaf parsley. Puree all the ingredients in a blender and add the juice and lemon peel. Add the olive oil last and store in a siphon in the fridge.
100 ml olive oil
Heat the poultry stock with the gold powder and mix with the tapioca. Pulse the oysters and oyster juice in the blender and mix with the tapioca mixture. Cook at 90°C for 20 minutes. Spread out on a SILPAT® silicone mat and dry at 60°C for one hour. Break the oyster crackers into pieces and deep-fry at 180°C.
150 g oysters
10 g capers 2
g xanthan gum
175 g oyster juice 175 ml poultry stock 300 g tapioca 1
g gold powder
Finish Shuck the oysters with a knife and squirt a dollop of Jerusalem artichoke cream on the bottom of the shell. Arrange the oyster on top and brush lightly with the butter. Take a wide, covered pot, place the hay on the floor and lay the oysters on top. Set the hay on fire and put the cover on the pot. Allow to cook in a hot oven for another two minutes. Garnish with the stewed Jerusalem artichoke, the marinated seaweed and the oyster remoulade.
Finish 10 oysters 100 g butter 300 g hay
The Hartering brothers – 32-year-old Paul and 30-year-old Niek – were raised in Heerlen in the Dutch province of Limburg, where the people are renowned for their love of good food. Just two years after opening their restaurant, the brothers are the hottest pair of restaurateurs on the Amsterdam scene and have been profiled in all the major magazines and food blogs. Featuring an open kitchen with a charcoal fire, scaffolding wood lining the walls and offering an excellent view of the canals, their premises on Amsterdam’s Peperstraat are buzzing literally every night. This is clearly a place where food is both prepared and consumed with equal pleasure. The brothers’ style is decidedly stripped-down; it’s all about the flavour. We asked the brothers how they manage all of this and found that they complement each other with almost no effort at all required.
A FELLOW CHEF IN THE SPOTLIGHT
trendsetters in Amsterdam Paul Hartering (the restaurant’s chef) started out in the restaurant business more or less by chance through a series of casual jobs while studying graphic design. He started out as a dishwasher and worked his way up from there. He worked at several restaurants before moving to Amsterdam, honing his skills and saving up money, and started cooking ‘for real’ in 2009. “I reached a personal crossroads: I felt I had to either leave the restaurant business altogether or open my own place.” Although he wasn’t sure yet what this place should look like, he knew he wanted to work with high-quality products. The career path of Niek Hartering (who is the maître d’ and also does the accounts) has been similar to that of his brother. He enrolled in art school and worked part-time from a young age for Van der Valk (hotel chain in the Netherlands), before moving to Amsterdam and graduating with a degree in museum education. When he was unable to find the right job in his field straight away, he and his brother discussed the idea of starting a business together: “It was Paul who managed to convince me.”
THEIR FIRST BREAK After they decided to pursue the idea, a chef told them about their current premises, a former Italian restaurant on Peperstraat in Amsterdam’s Rapenburg district. It is located right on the edge of the city centre, just tucked away from the busiest tourist spots. With its old Dutch East India Company warehouses (which used to be stocked with exotic spices), the neighbourhood has lots of character. Paul and Niek were sold right away and set out to create their restaurant. They had no capital and no master plan, but they also had no doubt that everything would work out somehow.
Niek: “We didn’t want to invest in a luxury interior – we felt the quality of the food should be the priority.” Paul: “You could give us a run-down old cafe with nothing but a bare light bulb, and we’d still be able to work with that, no problem.”
THEIR FOOD PHILOSOPHY The brothers’ ideas about interior restaurant design are entirely in line with their views on cooking. Paul: “I like to refer to it as ‘stripped-down cuisine’, but always based on top-quality ingredients; nothing but the best.” As we talk, the roast lamb’s head is grinning at us from the counter, and the sea bass is gleaming, while young leaks simmer in the piping hot pan. The brothers’ back-to-basics philosophy quickly caught on, and their restaurant has already garnered international fame. They are celebrated as the pioneers of ‘Nouvelle Rough’, a pared-down, no-nonsense style of cooking that has also been described as cuisine masculine. They offer a set menu that changes daily and guests are expected to share dishes with their fellow diners. The media are lapping it all up. Paul: “Of course we’re grateful for all the attention – you need that when you’re just starting out in this business and don’t have a huge
THEIR INTERIOR DESIGN “We just made it up as we went along!” They did have some ideas regarding the interior design of their restaurant, however. They grabbed a couple of pots of paint and some scaffolding wood, upgraded the kitchen and scrubbed the place clean, and they were good to go. It took them just one afternoon to select the china, cutlery and glassware. Niek: “But we did decide that we wanted linen table runners.” Paul adds: “And thin-edged glasses. Simple, but refined at the same time.” They installed small tables and they had a long rectangular dining table on the boat moored outside. This dining table quickly became a favourite location in the restaurant: whenever someone gets up from that table, everyone sways almost in unison.
THEIR VIEW OF QUALITY (AND QUALITY CREAM)
marketing budget. But that said, we don’t like labels. We prefer to come into our own slowly but surely, rather than peak too soon.” Niek: “It’s all about what we like and find interesting. We want people to feel content and sated when they leave.” Paul: “That’s right, and we’re still learning to perfect that experience every day.”
THEIR INGREDIENTS Niek and Paul developed their love of good food at a young age. Niek: “Our family kept pigs and chickens when we were growing up, and relations of ours on the Italian side own a deli. We also have hunters in the family. Those are all things that influence our choices. We always go for the best.” Paul: “Today, for instance, we’re preparing Tuscan-style grilled lamb’s head and a salad with lemon and roasted garlic. We’re also having sea bass, which we scrape off the bone while it’s raw and turn into tartare. We use this technique because the fish closest to the bone tastes the best. If you fillet the fish, you don’t get the same quality of flavour. Today’s menu also includes pork liver cream with almonds, rocket, shallots and buckrams (wild garlic) flowers.”
THEIR PRICING POLICY Although quality comes at a price, the Hartering brothers find a ‘healthy’ middle course by mixing simple, affordable fare (such as head, offal and marrowbone) with more luxury ingredients such as oysters and langoustine.
THEIR SET MENU Niek: “We offer a set menu, which really requires a lot of trust from our guests. We establish a rapport with them right away and then hope we’ve impressed them by the end of the evening.” Paul: “Whenever someone appears hesitant about a dish, we always tell them: ‘Why don’t you just try it, and if you don’t like it, we’ll make you something else.’ They’re usually pleasantly surprised and end up learning something new (laughs).’’ Niek: “We believe in using fewer, rather than more, elements. You won’t find any over-the-top plates with twenty items on them here.”
Paul: “Twenty items on one plate? I wouldn’t be able to cook like that. What I like to do is let the products speak for themselves and shine on their own. I use fewer elements, so they have to be of the highest quality. Take our crème brûlée, for example, which is a fixture on the menu. Do we use Debic Cream to prepare it? Yes, absolutely. We experimented with a few other products, including non-sterilized (raw) cream, but ended up switching to Debic Cream. It has a very consistent quality and gives me the thick and creamy texture I need for my crème brûlée. It means I can always be confident it’ll turn out well, even at lower temperatures. It’s a high-quality product you can rely on.” The menu (which can comprise 4 to 9 courses) changes daily, is posted on the restaurant’s website and ranges in price from €40 to €75. Niek: “The menu changes depending on what’s available and what our suppliers offer us on a given day. We only work with dedicated partners, many of which are smaller businesses and are based locally. We are lucky enough to have someone who brings us edible wild herbs, mushrooms, and even pine needles.”
T H E I R S H A R E D PA S S I O N The two brothers and Debic culinary consultant Tom van Meulebrouck are old school friends. Tom: “Even at a young age, our group of friends was interested in good nutrition and good food. When we were around 10, 12 years old, we’d cook for each other in the afternoons, since all of our mums and dads had jobs. When we got older, we’d provide food for parties as well. We went on culinary trips to Italy, Spain and even Hungary, where we tried some really good wines and met an interesting foie gras producer who treated the animals with respect. We all ended up pursuing studies that were unrelated to our ‘hobby’, however, and didn’t actually get professionally involved in the food business until later in our careers. Now that it’s years later and we’re all established, we like to inspire and challenge each other.” Paul: “We tend to be inspired by the product itself. We come up with ideas all the time, even when we’re travelling. Anything can inspire us, whether it’s a gourmet restaurant or street food.”
A FELLOW CHEF IN THE SPOTLIGHT
PA U L H A R T E R I N G O N PORK LIVER CREAM “For this cream we use super-fresh liver from Pata Negra (Jamón ibérico) pigs. Pata Negra fillet is expensive, but the liver’s a lot cheaper. I slice the liver and then sauté it with onions until the liver is nice and pink inside. I then mix the liver into a fine cream using Debic Cream and olive oil and serve it with almonds, rocket, caramelized shallots and buckrams (wild garlic) flowers.”
T H E I R ‘ U N - PA R I S I A N ’ S E R V I C E Niek: “Everyone here does the job he or she does best. Sometimes people regard me as ‘the waiter’, as if that were somehow an inferior position. People tend to underestimate the real value of service.” Paul: “We combine an Amsterdam attitude with a Limburg sense of hospitality, or something like that (laughs). We don’t have any of that Parisian arrogance; there’s no need for that at all. In fact, we downright hate it.” Niek: “Our mission is to ensure that our customers leave our restaurant happy. In other words, ‘we’ll kill you with niceness’ (laughs).’’
TA RTA R E A N D S E A B A S S C H E E K S “When you fillet sea bass, you’re always left with some flesh on the bone that has a very refined taste. I scrape this meat off the bone and turn it into tartare. The cheeks of the sea bass are the most underrated part of the fish, but they may well be the best. I prepare the cheeks at a low temperature in a fish stock together with some citrus and coriander.”
These brothers may have been dubbed ‘Nouvelle Rough’, but they seem pretty mellow to us. Do they ever fight? Sure they do, but “we both realize it’s all about give and take,” Niek says. “And we’re both able to compromise.” Paul: ‘Our fights can get pretty intense, but then one of us will send the other a text to say ‘sorry’, and things will be OK again.”
W H AT W I L L T H E Y B E S E R V I N G C O M E CHRISTMAS TIME? Paul: “Christmas is all about family for me. I like to cook simple food at that time of year. Oysters or raw fish as a starter, ovenroasted Eisbein (pickled ham hock) or Italian stewed rabbit – our mother’s recipe...” Niek: “We’ve never been able to find the exact recipe for that, though, have we?”
Restaurant Gebroeders Hartering Peperstraat 10hs, 1011 NX Amsterdam, the Netherlands tel. +31 20 421 06 99 – www.gebr-hartering.nl
TO M VA N M E U L E B R O U C K , B R U N O VA N VA E R E N B E R G H
Tips & tricks for your Holiday Season creations with Debic Mousse au Chocolat
The Holiday Season is the time of year when we like to really spoil our guests, and as far as desserts for the whole family go, you can’t beat classic chocolate mousse. Launched at the beginning of 2013, Debic Mousse au Chocolat is the sixth addition to the Debic Desserts family. These basic preparations are delicious and eliminate extensive preparation time, while still leaving you plenty of opportunity to add your personal twist. Debic Mousse au Chocolat opens up an infinite range of possibilities in no time at all. You’ll find some tried-and-tested ideas below!
C H O C O L AT E B I S C U I T S Easy to prepare: Debic Mousse au Chocolat chocolate biscuits! Beat the mousse, spread out thinly on a silicone mat using a mould, and dry in the oven for two hours at 60˚C. Before drying the mousse, you may choose to sprinkle it with freeze-dried fruit or cocoa kernels to add a little variety. Store in a closed container along with some silicon granules (to keep them nice and crispy).
MMMMM: MOUSSE WITH A TWIST Debic Mousse au Chocolat is perfect for adding spirits and liqueur, including orange liqueur, kirsch or brandy. A twist of alcohol gives your recipe something extra. Adding 5% is the ideal measure, as this will enhance the aroma without the alcohol taking over the recipe. We recommend you use liqueurs with alcohol by volume of at least 35%. Please note: using a smaller amount of alcohol will make your mousse sweeter and less firm.
H O W T O B E AT D E B I C M O U S S E A U C H O C O L AT 1. Shake the bottle and pour the liquid mixture into the kitchen mixer. 2. As with whipped cream, it is best to beat the Debic Mousse au Chocolat at medium speed or 2/3rd of the machine’s power. 3. As soon as whipping marks become distinct, use the maximum speed until the mousse starts to release from the edge of the basin. 4. The chocolate mousse is very stable and won’t separate even when whisking for a longer amount of time. 5. Pour into a piping bag and distribute as needed. 6. Store in the refrigerator for at least two hours for individual portions and 4 - 6 hours for cakes.
A D D I N G E X T R A C H O C O L AT E True chocoholics use only dark chocolate for their mousse! There is one important technical point to remember: do not add the chocolate straight, but rather melt it in a small amount of the liquid mixture reserved for beating. If you add melted chocolate straight up, small dots may well form in the mousse (creating a ‘straciatella’ look). TIP: use chocolate with a high cocoa content because this will allow you to sufficiently enhance the flavour of the mousse if you add 3%.
R E A D Y - T O - U S E C H O C O L AT E S A U C E Use Debic Mousse au Chocolat, in liquid form, as a sauce. Suitable for use in both cold and hot desserts, this creamy sauce with its rich flavour is a perfect accompaniment to desserts such as Dame Blanche or profiteroles filled with cream or ice cream.
WA R M C H O C O L AT E F O A M The previous issue of the magazine featured a cold espuma prepared with Debic Mousse au Chocolat. By adding a number of ingredients, you can also use Debic Mousse au Chocolat to create a warm foam giving your desserts the ultimate taste sensation during the cold winter months.
Ingredients 700 ml Debic Mousse au Chocolat 300 g pasteurized egg white
Preparation To create warm chocolate foam, mix the liquid Debic Mousse au Chocolat with pasteurized egg white and pour this into a siphon. Ventilate with two gas cartridges and place in a bain-marie heated at exactly 65ËšC.
SPICY To add some zest to your Debic Mousse au Chocolat, you can choose to infuse it with herbs and spices such as rosemary, cinnamon or star anise. How? Vacuum the spices together with the liquid Debic Mousse au Chocolat and allow to steep in a bain-marie or hot water bath (temperature: 85ËšC) for one hour. Cool immediately and pass through a fine sieve. Once the mousse has cooled, beat it in the kitchen mixer as usual.
Debic Culinaire Original
creams for special
Thanks to its fool-proof formula that delivers every time, Debic Culinaire Original cooking cream has become an indispensable ingredient in many professional kitchens. Its carefully balanced ingredients ensure that the cream does not curdle in hot dishes or dishes that contain acid, and its flavour cannot be beaten. This makes Debic Culinaire Original perfect for sauces and soups on special occasions, as well as for trendy creams, mousselines and other creamy preparations. One stripe of delicious cream can make all the difference! 26
occasions CREAM OF THE CROP Creams are an essential part of any contemporary creative cuisine, offering an infinite number of presentation and flavour options. As chefs, the plate is our version of a painter’s canvas. Just to help you along, this issue contains a step-to-step guide to preparing creams. In the run-up to the end-of-year party season, we are also presenting you with several inspiring recipes that allow you to instantly add an artistic touch to your dishes. It’s a quick win that will help your business flourish!
Cream of sauerkraut 500 ml Debic Culinaire Original 330 g sauerkraut 150 ml poultry stock 200 ml drain liquid from sauerkraut 150 g butter 5 g salt Cook the sauerkraut in Debic Culinaire Original, the stock and the drain liquid from the sauerkraut until done. Grind in the blender and strain through a fine sieve. Mix with the butter and season with salt.
Jerusalem artichoke cream 400 ml Debic Culinaire Original 150 g butter 500 g Jerusalem artichokes 100 ml poultry stock 5 g salt Cut the peeled Jerusalem artichokes into small pieces and cook in the stock and Debic Culinaire Original until done. Grind in the blender and mix with the butter. Strain through a fine sieve and season with salt.
Hazelnut cream 500 ml Debic Culinaire Original 500 ml poultry stock 50 g pure hazelnut paste 8 g agar-agar 3 g salt Bring all the ingredients to a boil and continue to boil for a short time. Allow to cool and grind in the blender. Pass through a fine sieve.
STEP BY STEP Cream of basmati rice Cream of parsnip 1 kg parsnip 700 ml Debic Culinaire Original 300 ml poultry stock 10 g whole coffee bean
1 l Debic Culinaire Original 40 g basmati rice 2 pandan leaves 1 lemon zest 4 g salt
Peel 1 kg of parsnips with a vegetable peeler. Cut into small, even pieces. Transfer to a pan and add 700 ml of Debic Culinaire Original. Add 300 ml of poultry stock. Add 10 g of whole coffee beans. Cook the parsnips and remove the coffee beans. Grind in the blender until you have a smooth cream. Pass the cream through a fine sieve and season with salt.
Cook the rice and the Debic Culinaire Original in the thermal blender for 45 minutes at 90˚C. Finally, mix briefly with the lemon zest, pandan leaves and salt. Pass through a fine sieve.
So many possibilities, so much flavour.
New in our range of desserts: Ready to use chocolate mousse Want to save time and still have superior quality food? Debic extends its range of desserts with a great addition: a delicious chocolate mousse made with real Belgian chocolate! Packed â€˜ready to useâ€™ in a handy 1-litre bottle, deliciously creamy and with a mild flavour. As close to homemade as it gets.