CWK 4 Freja Lina Nyman Module Level: 5 CLASS: Computer Tools 2 BAH Fashion Marketing & Communication IED Barcelona
DEMEULEMEESTER “Sometimes I really wonder why I’m doing this. But then a while ago soamebody said to me: ‘the day that the brand Ann Demeulemeester stops existing, we’ll really lose something! ’Then all of a sudden I remembered.”
Corporate Profile Perfectly cut, monochromatic pieces with a blunt edginess and a punky femininity are Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester’s hallmarks. Women with a strong sense of personal style, who don’t pay much heed to passing trends, have been coming back for years to her brand of slouchy, layered, menswear-inspired modernity: T-shirt dresses, asymmetric vests, and leather outerwear (not to mention those stompin’ black leather boots). Still, Demeulemeester does appreciate the play of opposites, which accounts for a certain romance that flows through her collections, chains and all. Born in 1959, she graduated from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1981. Six years later, she and five other young Belgians with fashion aspirations (Martin Margiela and Dries Van Noten among them) piled into a van and headed for London. The Antwerp Six, as they came to be known, weren’t exactly a collective, but the catchall moniker was convenient for an English-speaking audience. Demeulemeester forged her own path. That first collection was bought by Charivari of New York City, and five years later she started showing on the big stage in Paris. A full menswear line was added in 2005, jewelry in 2006.
Market Position The impact of this Belgian avant garde designerâ€™s pared-down structure, combining rough edges with more traditionally cut suiting, has been comparable to that of Japanese designers Kawakubo and Yamamoto a decade earlier. Both superseded more overtly designed fashions in favor of purer silhouettes combining references to antique clothing with the worn-in patina of their fabrics and a disregard for the more conventional notions of fit. Demeulemeesterâ€™s work represents (along with Margiela, Dries Van Noten, et al) a recognizable 1990s approach to clothing and designer style. It overtakes the often directionless attempts to integrate the sportswear styles of the late 1980s into a high-fashion context and the myriad of 1970s reworkings in the early 1990s. Dedicated to this more experimental strain of fashion, Demeulemeester, having won early accolades for her designs while still at college, pays great attention to detail. From the start she used local craftsmen to create her work. In the late 1980s her
designs were more attuned to fashionable classic garments. In 1987 short, black, sunray-pleated skirts were shown with crossover braces and crisp white shirts, worn with stark gabardine coats. Even at this stage, however, she showed concern for proportion, constructing skirts and dresses with adjustable waistlines that could be worn high or low, altering the emphasis of the design to suit the figure of the wearer and give a different sense of balance to the overall outfit. The appeal of designs which are at the cutting edge of fashion and yet ultimately still wearable has ensured Demeulemeesterâ€™s success, and, as her work has grown in confidence, so have her sales. The strong lines of her signature long coats and dresses are punctuated by more deconstructed styles like the frayed-edged lacy knit top shoe showed in 1993. This, with its shrunken fit, married the resurgent punk ethos of rough, makeshift antifashion to the languorous swing of gothic-inspired floor-skimming coats.
Thanks to such integrity, Demeulemeester attracts an avid and loyal following
Communication Profile In an industry as transient as fashion, where clothes and people rapidly go out of style, Demeulemeester has remained steadfast. She has built a successful career based on permanence, disregarding trends and eschewing advertising. Her sartorial vocabulary – cropped tailored jackets, slim black trousers, biker boots, and asymmetric cardigans – is as fresh today as it was 20 years ago. Even though you will never see a logo on her garments, Demeulemeester’s clothes are unmistakably hers, a continuation of her personality. While other designers court the press, Ann Demeulemeester prefers to avoid reporters, holing up in Belgium’s only Le Corbusier house.
The Balance between
Heaven & Earth
The Fall/Winter 2013 collection is based around the theory of the constant attraction and opposites between heaven and earth, the material and the spiritual. The inspiration to the collection bottom in the human desire for the spiritual and on the opposite, the divine beings and their desire of the human reality on earth, The attraction and the desire that evolves from these opposites are great forces that helped to evolve the collection.
F/w 2013 Collection
F/w 2013 COmmunication
The communication will be inspired from the German filmmaker Wim Wenders movie “Wings of desire”, were the angels walk on earth and their desire for being human with real feelings. This source of inspiration together with the attraction between opposites will be the main source of inspiration for all the different elements in the communcation’s creative parts.
Heaven & Earth The Fall/Winter collection 2013 will be communicated through an editorial photograph series, a look-book and a minisite online were the theme of the collection and the pieces are shown. Following earlier strategies of eschewing adverts, the mood for the creative parts is suggested to be very respectfull, showing the contrasts in the collection, created with the intution to feel more like an artpiece rather than commercials for a product.
The grater part of the editorial is aimed to include black and white photographs. Implementing a minor number of color photographs will create an impression of contrasts & communicate the attraction between heaven & eart, further gives a feeling of the desire setween the two elements.
to picture the attraction between heaven and earth, the human and the divine, the editorials should feature two models pictured as divine beings, and regular persons as humans. The message of the photos and the feeling, should clearly show their attraction for the other side.
Heaven &Earth the lead inspiration for Ann Demeulemeester and her fall 2013 collection is the attraction between the great forces of heaven & Earth. The attraction between them are creating a deep desire for the other side, here portraid in the icelandic nature. Photo: Jeff p. Elstone Styling:Katie Shillingford
JEFF P. ELSTONE
In order to show the attraction between heaven and earth on a material level, the icelandic nature is suggested as photo location. Selfoss waterfalls in north-eastern Iceland are one of the biggest waterfalls in Europe, which could be a great place to show the Forces of opposites.
Katie Shillingford is suggested as stylist for the editorial photographs in order to reach the right artistic feeling . She is chosen due to her ability to transform the garments into a piece of art. Every garment in her earlier works are pictured as something beyond just a piece of clothing.
Na s t ya Ku sa k ina
An up and coming model that earlier has collaborated with the brand, with her look she will excellently picture the face of an divine being in the editorial photographs.
With her defined beauty, pure face and her versatility she will perfectly picture the contrast in the editorial photohraphs. Ranked as nr.44 on models.com top 50
Satin dress #2547 Suede Shoes #4523
Long dress #2548 Leather Shoes #4527
Cape dress #2550 Suede Shoes #4523
Cape dress #2551 Silk Shoes #4525
Heaven & Earth The collection will be communicated through a minisite online in order to strengthen the online presence & reach a wider audience. The official Ann Demeulemesteer website is minimalistic with few parts such as catwalk photos, interviews & store information. To give the brand a human voice and create connection with consumers, the site will include regularly updated content, yet keeping the same minimalistic, non-commercial feeling of the brand and the collection.
The Minisite will be focusing only on the Fall / Winter collection 2013 and function as an extension to the OFFICIAL website. on the OFFICIAL BRANDwebsite there is no videos available, therefore it will be a video showing the mood of the collection on the home page, in order to evoke feelings.
The Second page of the minisite will be called about and the function will be to explain the mood and the concept behind the collection. Each of the pages on the site will include: contact info, a widget directed to the official facebook page and â€œLikeâ€? buttons for sharing on social medias.
Minisite Preview http://theoryofann.wordpress.com/
As the regular website do not include lookbook or catwalk video, the minisite will fill that gap during the season. Under the PAGE NAMED: collection, one can find a catwalk video and a slideshow of the lookbook. The video and slideshow is chosen in order to create a more LIVELY feeling.
The brand emphasize the integrity and suits in an artistic rather than commercial context. That is why the site will include a visual diary INSTEAD OF A BLOG. there will be inspirational pictures updated regularly. An elegant, exclusive and minimalistic approach IN ORDER TO create a human voice for the brand , without taking the risk of over-exposing it.
Minisite Preview http://theoryofann.wordpress.com/
Sources Sources for contact info and company info:
http://www.anndemeulemeester.be/contact.html http://www.anndemeulemeester.be/stores.html http://www.anndemeulemeester.be/interviews.html http://www.anndemeulemeester.be/chronology.html http://www.anndemeulemeester.be/collections.html Spread 1: Text: http://www.mycloset.com/fashionpedia/?l=476&designer=Ann+Demeulemeester Picture:http://www.styleisle.ie/index.php/ann-demeulemeester-thecorner-com/ Spread 2: Text: Style.com http://www.style.com/fashionshows/designerdirectory/ADEMEULE/seasons/ Picture: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 2012, http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2012RTW-ADEMEULE/#1 Spread 3: Text: Fashion Encyclopedia, http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/Da-Es/Demeulemeester-Ann.html Picture: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 2011, Vogue Italy, http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/fw-10-11-ready-to-wear/ ann-demeulemeester/beauty/gallery/303621 Spread 4: Text: Eugene Rabkin, Haaretz 20080407, http://www.haaretz.com/weekend/magazine/no-logo-1.296568 Picture: http://www.viewonfashion.es/es/article/119-9484/ANN-DEMEULEMEESTER_The-Corner Spread 5: Pictures: http://aaronmritchey.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/human-angel1.jpg http://eldiariodechaucer.blogspot.com.es/2012/12/sobre-dos-sueno-mios-y-sobre-angeles.html http://www.class.uh.edu/courses/engl3322/nkomar/page_1.htm http://www.dwallpaperhd.com/11601/dark-angel-abstract-wallpaper-from-dark-wallpapers http://www.longitudeonda.com/index.php/el-yoga-mejoraria-la-vision/ Text: Authors Spread 6 & 7: Ann Demeulemeester F/W 2013 & S/S 2013 http://www.style.com/fashionshows/designerdirectory/ADEMEULE/seasons/ Text: Authors Spread 8: Pictures: Jeff P. Elstone, http://www.jeffelstone.com/ Kesler Tran, http://www.keslertran.com/ Text: Authors Spread 8: Pictures: Daphne Grunewald, Numero, Sept. 2008 http://mynakedstyle.blogspot.com.es/2011/08/angel-demon.html Julia Kieckseeâ€™s Garden of Angels http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/garden-of-angels Text: Authors
Spread 9: Pictures: Daphne Grunewald, Numero, Sept. 2008 http://mynakedstyle.blogspot.com.es/2011/08/angel-demon.html Text: Authors Spread 10: Picture: Jeff P. Elstone, http://www.jeffelstone.com/ Text: Authors Spread 11: Pictures: Jeff P. Elstone, http://www.jeffelstone.com/ Text: Authors Spread 12: Pictures: http://www.nordiclandscapes.com/, http://www.nordiclandscapes.com/Waterfalls-Rivers-Lakes/index.html Text: Authors Spread 13: Pictures: http://models.com/people/katie-shillingford Photographer: Lina Scheynius Fashion Editor/Stylist: Katie Shillingford Text: Authors Spread 14: Pictures: http://models.com/models/nastya-kusakina Photographer: Jeff Bark Text: Authors Spread 15: Pictures: http://models.com/models/katlin-aas Text: Authors Spread 17: Look book Pictures: Ann Demeulemeester S/S 2013 http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2013RTW-ADEMEULE/ Spread 19: Pictures, screenshot of websites startpage: http://www.haiderackermann.be/ http://www.damirdoma.com/en Text: Authors Minisite: http://theoryofann.wordpress.com/ Catwalk video of Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2013: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kM6xwCPpv6U In the desert sun Ann Demeulemeester by Selfreidges: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xw__KB50lWk
CWK 4 Freja Lina Nyman Module Level: 5 CLASS: Computer Tools 2 TEACHER: Nicolas Godon BAH Fashion Marketing & Communication IED Barcelona