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Photography is the study of light, but it is also an eternal quest for perfection. This ultra wide-angle watershot called our attention for so many reasons: the crazy positioning of the water shooter, the amazing evening golden light, Makana Pang's stylish yet aggressive approach to such a beast, and the sharp vision of the fabled North Shore... It’s such a balanced image. Well done Chachi! Photo Ryan "Chachi" Craig


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06 Free Parking 10 Cover Story 12 Editor's Note 14 Wahine 20 Grom Report 26 Summer of `69 38 Aperture 52 Beach & Board Buyer's Guide 62 Surf Art 66 News & Events 74 Stuff We Like 76 Industry Notes 82 Last Look

Model @vlea100 Photo: @jeffreynovak


H YAT T R E G E N C Y WA I K I K I ALA MOANA CENTER KOKO MARINA WINDWARD MALL WAIKELE

L A H A I N A G AT E WAY

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. com for contest info


S T O R Y gOnzo

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Glenn Pang

It’s not an everyday occurrence to have the opportunity to photograph and talk story with one of the most influential shapers in the world. That’s one of the small blessings about living in Hawai`i: you watch and learn from the creme of the crop of the sport. And meeting Glenn Pang wasn't any different. I have been hearing that famous last name Pang since I was a kid. Whenever the best surfers recounted the top shapers in the business, he was included throughout decades. Since the 80's, we’ve seen it imprinted in those killer T&C surfboards around the world. I wanted to know more about this artist that some of the most serious wave riders in the business trust. There’s a form of mythology about him. And suddenly, I was face to face with him in his shaping room located in the industrial zone in Wahiawa. Pang greeted me with tons of aloha and humility. He took me around the factory while educating about the history of T&C, Craig Sugihara, and how he became involved with shaping boards early in the 80s. He mentioned Glenn Minami as being one of his early influencers. We talked a bit about Billy Kemper's competitive drive and how that translates into his designs for the champ. I must admit, I was amazed by the size of the factory and the plethora of amazing shapes found in this treasure chest. We then walked over to his personal shaping

room where I could experience his craftsmanship just inches away from the master at work. There are thousands of board shapers on the planet, but there is only one Glenn Pang. His natural workflow and passion for the craft sets him apart. I was quite impressed, too, that at this point in his career (one that spans for more than 40 years) he is still intrigued by weird asymmetrical shapes and forms. And the fact that he keeps himself in top shape to surf Hawaiian waves says a lot about his connection with wave riding and shaping; it keeps him up-to-date and current. It’s an honor to get the cover of this year's Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide with an artsy photo that I shot during this meeting with Pang. As a photographer, art is my main drive. It’s pretty much the only language I fully identify with. For me, art is the only direction for a life full of creative freedom, perennial curiosity, and progression. Shooting Pang in his element inspires me to follow the arts, and knowing I got the cover of this issue makes me super happy. Hope you enjoy this issue that we, the team at Freesurf, have worked on with our hearts and souls, always inspired by our sport: the sport of kings! Aloha, gOnzo Photo Director @gonzolenz


@ SALTY-CREW | SALTY-CREW .COM

MATT MEOLA | CABO SAN LUCAS


Surfboard shapers are the unsung heroes of the sport. They make dreams come true for wave riders to express themselves in the ocean and catch the best waves of their lives. A shaper’s attention to detail and their remarkable patience separate master craftsmanship from mass-production machines. I’m a firm believer of supporting your local shapers and local businesses. Plus, it’s ideal for surfers to ride gear created specifically for the waves you’re surfing, since every fraction of an inch of foam can make the difference between a frustrating surf session versus finding your “flow state” - the ideal immersion in any activity. It’s a beautiful thing when you find that perfect board below your feet, allowing your surfing to progress. The fine-tuning of a keen shaper opens up new opportunities to ride waves we once thought of as unsurfable, and to do new maneuvers on the wave and above the lip. The innovative progress of surfboard design and diverse fin set-ups have transformed the sport in so many ways. Yet, shaping and glassing can be quite the thankless job with little or no financial

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incentive. The men and women behind the scenes do it for the love of surfing, because of true passion. This issue of Freesurf is the “Beach & Board Buyer’s Guide”, dedicated to helping you find your perfect summer quiver. We asked the top Hawai'i surfers to describe their favorite summer surfboards in detail, and what works best for them in Town amongst other summer destinations. You’ll read tips from aerial masters and barrel hunters like Josh Moniz, Kai Martin, Moana Jones, Kainehe Hunt, and Makua Rothman. You’ll hear from Waikiki allstar loggers like Kelia Moniz, Kaniela Stewart, and Keoki Saguibo. From longboards to shortboards and everything inbetween, we’ve selected a variety of fun shapes and highperformance boards to make sure you have a blast this summer. Retro and single-fin enthusiasts: you’re in for a real treat! In this issue, we share a history lesson about a shaping revolution that changed everything, according to Sunset Beach boardmaker Randy Rarick, bridging the gap between the end of the longboard

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era and the start of the modern shortboard. Inspired by the “Summer of ‘69”, Rarick gathers the timeless styles of Leah Dawson and Willy Asprey to test out some gorgeous retro shapes and takes notes about how they perform. We get into the nitty-gritty of rocker, fin evolution, tail shapes, and the ways different craftsman approached design to provide smoother rail-to-rail exchange. So much has changed over the years, but these classic boards are making a comeback for soul surfers who paddle out for “their daily medicine,” as Leah Dawson would say. We hope you find your perfect match. True love is a beautiful thing. Be experimental, be authentic to your own surfing, and—most importantly—have tons of fun doing it. And don’t forget to thank your local shapers for making it all possible. Aloha, Shannon Reporting Managing Editor @shannonreporting


Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Managing Editor Shannon Reporting

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Contributing Writers gOnzo, Alexandra Kahn, Kyveli Sophia, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting Copy Editor Mara Pyzel West Coast Distribution Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395 Hawai`i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395 Staff Shooters Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, Andrew Oliver, Andrew Storer Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Damian Antioco, Eric Baeseman, Brent Bielmann, Brian Bielmann, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Pete Frieden, Christa Funk, Shane Grace, Dane Grady, Andy Hawes, Alexandra Kahn, Zak Noyle, Sebastian Rojas, Keoki Saguibo Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Follow us on social media @freesurfmag

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2019

Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am


M O A NA J O NE S By Kyveli Sophia If the best surfer really is the one having the most fun as the old adage goes, Moana Jones may be an unofficial bonafide Pipe Master. Sure, she hasn’t officially bested a group of her peers according to a finite numerical scale over a selected number of days where your performance is counted — in fact, she chose to withdraw from the rat race of contest surfing over two years ago, ending her six-year contract with Billabong at the ripe old age of 17.

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Now almost 20 years old, Jones is surfing more than she ever has, plus she’s working towards a biology degree at the University of Hawai‘i. Moana is in good company as a freesurfer; Mick Fanning and Freddy Pataccia being just a few other allstars finding new stoke away from the competitive scene as freesurfers.

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as she grinned beside her brightly painted quiver, newly adorned with the logo that has her on the same team as one of her biggest supporters, Big Island’s Ulualoha Napeahi.

her foot when we were about five years old and I was like, ‘I’ll fix it!’”

Undoubtedly, one of the things that landed her that prestigious new sponsor was her Pipeline prowess. What designates an official Pipe Master is the consistently highest string of two-wave totals, but it’s hard to argue with the idea that one must certainly be an unofficial Pipe Master if they’ve racked up nearly a decade of experience, demonstrated the humility and good sense necessary to understand their place in the lineup and still operate to score waves, and mastered the ability to foster and maintain close friendships while garnering

Jones and Adric stay fit with weekly jiu-jitsu classes at Sunset Beach Jiu-Jitsu alongside other local surfers, including Eli Olsen and Ezra Sitt. Moana has earned her place in this constellation of surf stars with her humble soul, her warm heart, and some noteworthy hard-charging, for sure. The fact that some of those significant connections were in place before she was born doesn’t hurt either.

Well, all those good times and happy, carefree days in the waves with her core North Shore crew paid off less than a month after that initial statement: in late March, Joel Centeio gave Jones an opportunity to join close friend and aerial coach Barron Mamiya at Hurley, adding a bit of honored flair to the nose of her board without lessening any of the laid-back drive she was maximizing in her stretch as a freesurfer. “So stoked,” the permagrom posted on Instagram

Kai Jones

“I’m not sponsored now and I’m totally fine with that,” said Moana when we caught up with her in late February. “Back when I was sponsored and doing contests, I just looked at surfing so much differently. Nowadays, I feel like I’m just having so much more fun and I’m realizing how much I love it. I never realized it before; I never thought about it. I think now that I’m in school and I’m not sponsored, I’m not out here trying to be better than all those other girls and I’m just out there to have fun. It changed my outlook on everything and made me a better person. I surf more than I’ve ever surfed, ever! I’m like a grom again, like back when I was eight years old!”

“Out of the uncles, I look up to Uncle Gavin [Beschen] a lot… He’s my grandma and grandpa’s neighbor, so we’ll just be out there talking story and he’ll be like, ‘Oh, how’s that coconut I gave your grandma the other day? She made haupia with that?’” Those who haven’t surfed Pipe before may wonder how to survive it. Moana has the answer: “Just lots of respect and being nice to everybody.” During her time as a freesurfer, she was wowed by underground chargers

respect (and the occasional razzing) from the top young surfers of today. North Shore born and raised, Jones’ list of best friends reads like a roster of some of surfing’s most recognizable names: Barron Mamiya, Makana Pang, Zoe McDougall, Noah Beschen, Kalani Rivero, and Moana’s best friend, Makani Adric. Her current path towards a possible nursing degree fits the picture as well since it’s in her blood to not only surf with the North Shore’s finest, but to patch them up, too. “A lot of my aunties are nurses, so it’s kind of our family thing to be a nurse,” she says, her infectious giggle on a constant, joyous replay loop. “It’s funny: whenever my friends get injured with cuts and stuff at my house, I always try to act like a nurse. I’ve been doing it forever…I remember the first time, I think it was Dax McGill who got a cut on

“I really like watching Matahi Drollet, the Tahitian surfer. He’s a goofy-footer like me and he charges Teahupo’o and Pipe, too,” Jones said. “I feel like he’s kind of underground…He’s a freesurfer but he charges and has super nice style. He’s friends with Barron, so we’re all friends.” Remember those unofficial qualifications of an unofficial Pipe Master? Experience, humility, knowing your place in the lineup and still scoring waves, and earning crazy respect and the occasional razzing from the world’s greatest surfers? Well, in January, Moana Jones earned all of that and more on just one wave during an extended run of absolutely impeccable Pipe.


STAY SANDY

ENJOY THE WILD LIFE


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She’s also taken up foiling to maximize the flat days, having received a foilboard for Christmas.

“That was a fun ride,” she recalled, going back in time. “I was out there for six hours that day and it was small… I was out there cruising in my little bikini like, ‘It’s not even big!’ Then I just got stuck out there — I always get stuck out at Pipe. After three hours it got a little better, so I stayed out. Then all my friends came, so I stayed out and I was like, ‘This is so good!’ Just talking story with everybody… I didn’t even think I was going to catch a wave, I was just cruising. Then right before sunset, that wave came out of nowhere and I was like, ‘Is anybody gonna go?’ Nobody was going and I was in the spot, so I just turned around and went for it. This guy on the shoulder was going to go, but he backed out and I was like ‘Oh, good!’ I was way deeper, too. I was so stoked I got that wave and when I came out it felt so good.”

A true waterwoman, Moana also fulfilled another family legacy that many people may have expected, or at least hoped for: she loves doing the Molokai 2 O ` ahu paddle race with younger sister Kai and father, Dawson Jones. Dawson was a founder of the 32-mile race, guaranteed to give you arms of jelly and a sense of accomplishment like no other. The father/daughter relay team has competed in the race twice since 2015 and expect to complete a third crossing in 2019. Whether you’re trying to wrap your head around a mind-bending barrel you’ve just watched her thread, sitting next to her in biology classes, or watching her navigate the Second Reef Pipe wave she accidentally got stuck on by being so zoned-in to the ocean that she never wanted to go back on shore, it’s perfectly understandable to find yourself giving mad respect to the unofficial Pipe Master lovingly known as Teeny Bikini Moana Jones.

Moana’s perfectly placed drop had her deeply slotted, but when she emerged she was as casual as if she was exiting a spa. She languidly flipped back her dripping locks, then calmly reached down to make sure her bikini bottom was still in place. It was - but that tiny tweak earned her a nickname she’s still trying to live down. “At V-land after that everybody was like, ‘Teeny Bikini Moana Jones!’” she said, dissolving into laughter. “That was the one time I wore that! I usually wear shorts or a wetsuit… I need to wear shorts forever now and reverse my name.” Riding a quiver shaped mainly by Tim Carroll and Bret Marumoto, Jones is out on good surf whenever it’s breaking and class allows. 18

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K AI MA R T I N By Shannon Reporting

Regarded as one of Hawai'i’s top rising stars, 14-year-old Kai Martin is surfing well beyond his years and turning heads around O'ahu. After dominating the State Championships three years running from 2016-18, the soft spoken Billabong athlete is staying humble. Born and raised in Honolulu, Martin can be spotted out at Kewalos surfing his home surf spot nearly every day that its breaking. His dedication to the sport and focus on the goal to be a world champ one day is clear; Martin has secured two prestigious victories at the National Championships and isn’t slowing down anytime soon. Slater Designs recently pulled him under their wing to test out their latest run of high performance shortboards. We sat down with Martin to break down the dimensions of his favorite boards and discuss the competitive mindset required to take on the Islands’ emerging talent.

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Age & Home Spot: I’m 14 years old and from Honolulu. I started surfing when I was really young, probably around two or three years old. The Menehune Contest was my first experience competing, and I fell in love. My home spot is Kewalos. It’s a fun little wave, right and left. Sponsors: Billabong, Slater Designs, Skullcandy, Vertra, FCS, Sticky Bumps Describe your quiver: The board I rode today was a Slater Designs “Gamma”, my all-around shortboard. The dimensions on this one are 5’5’’ x 17 7/8 x 2 1/8. I usually just ride this board at head-high or under wave size. It paddles good and is a nice highperformance shortboard. All the boards I get from Slater Designs are pretty good. I love this one because it’s good for waves that don’t offer much. You’re able to get speed out of anything. When I come to the North Shore, since the waves are much bigger up here than where I live, my board sizes range from 5’5’’ up to 6’6’’ for Sunset Beach.

Latronic

gOnzo

G R O M


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Josh Moniz, Off The Wall

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R E P O R T

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Latronic

G R O M

Favorite part about surfing: I just love to get barreled. Turns are fun, airs are fun, I love everything about surfing... but barrels are the best. If there are barrels out there, I am definitely looking to hunt them down. The view from inside is unreal and it feels so good to make it out. How has the Billabong Bloodlines training camp helped your surfing? My coach is Rainos Hayes. He’s awesome. I’ve been working with him a lot over the last four years. He has a lot of ocean knowledge and helps me at contests to improve my surfing. During a contest, he’ll help me clear my mind and not get overwhelmed by nerves. He helps me figure out which waves the judges will score the highest. Freesurfing or contests? Freesurfing is way more fun, but contest surfing is cool, too, when you get into the competitive mindset. Goals for your competitive surfing career: I want to make it to the World Tour. I eventually want to win another national title, and start doing QS comps. Winning Nationals gave me a lot of confidence going forward into the Junior QS events. Mentors: Definitely the Moniz brothers… I grew up watching them and surfing with them a bunch. Seth Moniz just made the World Tour so I’ll be watching him. It’s going to be awesome to watch him on the CT up against all the top guys. He’s one of my favorite surfers, so I’m excited. Josh Moniz is a crazy surfer, too. He does some of the craziest airs I’ve ever seen. I also surf with him a bunch.

Pursue your thrill.

Most progressive surfer in the sport right now? Probably Filipe Toledo. I haven’t seen anybody do the crazy stuff that he’s doing on a daily basis. There are so many progressive guys... John John Florence, Gabriel Medina, and Italo Ferreira are all gnarly, too. Words of advice for groms looking to go pro? Have fun and don’t take it too seriously in the beginning, especially at the grom contests. Don’t get too bummed if you lose; everybody goes through that. You’re not alone. Just have fun.


Summer Bridging the gap between the end of the longboard era and the

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of ’69 start of the modern shortboard. By Randy Rarick Photos: Keoki


The shortboard revolution began in 1967 when longboards reigned supreme. Then, over the course of only two years, board lengths dropped from ten-foot tankers to seven-foot mind machines. Such was the era of hippies, psychedelics, and an anythinggoes attitude. The start of the “Summer of ’69” actually had its genesis in the fall of 1968 at the World Surfing Championships in Puerto Rico. Back then — long before digital media, GoPros, videos or cell phones — the biannual gathering of surfing’s best was where surfboard design came together and the agenda was set for the coming year. While Hawai'i’s Fred Hemmings eventually won the contest, it was the influence of

Defending champion, Nat Young, led the charge. His designs, and those of his fellow Aussies, set the American manufactures on a path that came to fruition in the “Summer of ’69”.

the Australians that was the talk of the event. Defending champion Nat Young led the charge. His designs, and those of his fellow Aussies, set American manufacturers on a path that came to finality during the “Summer of ’69”. Nat had spent the months leading up to the event in France alongside Wayne Lynch who had been testing and refining his equipment; it consisted of a slightly fuller, yet pointed nose,

Leah Dawson


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round tail, straight bottom rocker and a flotation favorable “S” deck. Keith Paull, the defending Australian Champion, also turned up in France with his version of a similar shape, before heading on to the Caribbean. This was taking place at a time when Americans were still coming off their passé V-bottom boards, and the Hawaiians were adapting their pintails into mini-guns. At the Puerto Rican event, everyone noticed how much more maneuverable the Aussie boards were and some began to mimic, duplicate, or downright copy the designs. It took about six months for the major manufacturers to develop a design, come up with an advertising campaign, and, finally, publish the ads in major surf magazines, which was how everyone found out about what was happening in the design realm. The American manufacturers scrambled to sign on the Aussies, with Nat Young going with Dewey Weber and Keith Paull going with Bing. Midget Farrelly was already with Gordon & Smith, and Bob McTavish was signed with Morey-Pope. Surf media of the era became infatuated with the influence of Australians; everything was about highperformance. Their boards were displacement hulls with high rails up front, a rolled belly nose blending into a flat down railed tail and virtually no bottom rocker, which meant the tails were dead straight for speed. This contributed to the “S” deck with a kick in the nose and a hump in the middle, caused by the straight, almost reverse rocker. The move to a “Greenough” style fin, resulted in multiple fin systems, which allowed the fin to be moved up and down, along with more foil in the fin and less area. The three main systems were the modified

Willy Asprey

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“Variable W.A.V.E. Set,” the “Fins Unlimited Vari-Set” and the “Guidance” fin systems. All the major manufacturers came out with a model that represented this push, and there were many: the Weber “Ski”, the Bing “Foil”, the Gordon & Smith “Magic”, the Morey-Pope “Camel”, the Surfboards Hawai`i “Aquarius”, and the Design 1 “Reflector”. For the “Summer of ’69” design project, we decided to take nine of these boards and put them to the test to see what made them such popular designs and how they performed. Our test riders included femme fatale Leah Dawson, who is no stranger to riding vintage alternative equipment. Joining her was Sunset Beach stand-out

For the “Summer of ’69” design project, we decided to take nine of these boards and put them to the test to see what made them such popular designs, and how they performed. Willy Asprey, whose versatility on a variety of equipment is legendary in the area. They paddled out on a nice 3-5’ day at Sunset Point and rode a couple waves each. They then switched boards, repeating the process until both had ridden all nine test boards -- our version of a consumer reports test on how these boards performed against one another. The results were interesting. Compared to today’s surfboards,

Randy Rarick


they actually didn’t have much of a baseline to work with. When asked in advance, they both thought the Bing “Foil Narrow” looked like the best board, while in actuality, the Bing “Foil Wide” rode the better of the two. They had a similar situation with the Weber “Ski”: while one would have thought the narrow board would be better suited for Hawai'i’s waves, both riders found the wider version surfed better. As for the Gordon & Smith “Magics”, the wider one with the pronounced “S” deck was a favorite of both and better suited than the smaller, flatter-rockered version. The Surfboards Hawai'i “Aquarius” felt more like a mini-longboard than a transition shape due to its excessive area and lack of rocker. The strangest of the batch was the MoreyPope “Camel” with a slightly rolled “V” in the middle of the bottom, rather than the rolled nose that the other boards had, which provided for a distinctive looseness, yet hard to control. The cleanest and the best of the batch was probably the Dennis Choate shaped Design 1 “Reflector”, which actually came from the East Coast. Both surfers felt that it was the easiest to ride and the smoothest of the lot. The overall conclusion of our surfboard design project was that the straighter rocker on all the boards made them faster when surfing a direct line, but extremely stiff off the bottom and in a cut back. The “S” decks provided much-appreciated floatation, while contributing to the flat tail rocker. The slightly fuller outlines with the wide point forward all worked well to give the boards some drive, and each of the round-tails contributed to a smooth rail-to-rail exchange. The lower area fins helped to loosen the boards up and with some time and experimentation of position, could further improve performance.


What is interesting about these boards and the other models from the “Summer of ’69” is that these were, in many respects, the last hurrah for the major manufacturers. They had been trying to emulate the advertising campaigns of the longboard era, but times had changed. By the end of the summer of ’69, these boards were obsolete. The death blow came with the introduction by Mike Hynson of the “Breakaway” rail design, which was the flat-bottomed nose and down-rail design that changed everything. Within months, nearly all boards went to flat-bottoms, more tail rocker, the belly noses were gone, and everyone had low rails. It was also the beginning of the garage soul, where design characteristics were coming out of regional backyard designers at such a pace that big manufacturers could not keep

Within months, nearly all boards went to flat bottoms, more tail rocker, the belly noses were gone and everyone had low rails.

up. Therefore, the shapes of the “Summer of ’69” were the last link between what had been the longboard era, opening the door for the modern shortboard.

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As we transition into summer, we look back and remember this past surf season in the mecca of wave riding. Every season is different and unique in its own special ways. We endured one crazy stormy January and a frustratingly blown out February. It seemed like the huge onshore swell that wreaked havoc on our coastlines and buoys opened a faucet of northeast swells and nonstop bad winds for what seemed like forever. Thanks to nature’s little miracles, March and April saved us from what looked like a doomed surf season with incredible weeks of perfect waves, friends, photos and footage.

Kala Grace surfing Pipeline, Zak Noyle capturing it. Photo by Keoki During some of the best days of this season, master cameraman Zak Noyle went out to document big Pipeline with his AxisGo water housing and his iPhone. His Instagram live streams were legendary, full of memorable moments while he was dodging wash-through sets on fast rising swells. We have a feeling the AxisGo / iPhone fever is taking off (check out our section “Stuff We like” for more info on AxisGo).


Nathan Florence, Waimea Bay Photo by Nick Gruen In the past five years, the proliferation of drone documenting has been a reality on the North Shore of O’ahu. As a result of the trend, new angles are changing the traditional way we grew up watching the waves, and surfing in general.


Kai Mana Henry, Pipeline by gOnzo Kaimana Henry living the Pipe dream during a big day last January.


Gabriel Villarรกn, Pipeline by Mike Latronic Distinguished member of the Inka team, Mr. Gabriel Villarรกn travels to the mecca of surfing every winter, sometimes twice. His clean backside approach to Pipeline is a product of decades of research and practice at the most important wave in the world. He has a spot in the lineup every winter.


Gavin Beschen By Dave “Nelly� Nelson Hawaiian blue shorebreak can be deceiving. There were some crazy outside sets this morning, but Nelly and Gavin connected a few times to create their own legendary wide-angle magic.


Mark Healey by Grant Taylor A very solid contender for the 2019 Wave of the Winter, this clean second reefer by Healey was a gift from the gods. While it did not win the prestigious award, it definitely won the most graceful ride of the season at the Banzai Pipeline.


Jonah Morgan by gOnzo Lunchtime fun at Pipe.

Mason Ho by Christa Funk March 31, 2019: This was the last significant WNW swell of the season. Conditions were as good as it gets with buttery, super light trade winds, some Second Reef sets and a clear morning full of colors and mana.


W W W. R A I N B O W S A N D A L S . C O M

F I N D G E R RY ’ S S I G N AT U R E Y O G A M AT M A D E F R O M T H E S A M E M AT E R I A L A S H I S S A N D A L E X C L U S I V E LY AT W W W. R A I N B O W S A N D A L S . C O M

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Designed by Gerry Lopez, pipeline master and yogi guru, the Holoholo features our signature RainbowÂŽ single layer arch support, a dynamic density rubber top sole, a serrated molded bottom, and a PU leather outer strap with a neoprene lining for instant comfort. Their truncated domes (US. Pat. No. D794,922) stimulate the nerve endings, energy channels, and pressure points that start and end in your feet and toes. Wearing them is like getting a personal foot massage.The Holoholo reminds us to always live with Aloha.

HOLOHOLO TO GO OUT AND HAVE A GOOD TIME


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Summer Surfboards By Shannon Reporting We asked the experts about their favorite summer shapes. Here’s what some of O‘ahu’s top surfers had to say about their ideal summer quiver selection.

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Latronic

SHORTBOARDS Josh Moniz

“My summer quiver is pretty simple for Town. I have my standard shortboard that I like to use on most days: 5’11’’ x 18 ¾ x 2 1/3 ‘Mojo’ shaped by Kerry Tokoro. This is my go-to shortboard because it’s very forgiving and easy to maneuver in the waves we have on the South Shore. For the waves in Town, it’s important to have a board like this because they don’t have the same power in [in the waves] as on the North Shore, so that’s why I go with this model. Sometimes less rocker and a wider outline is the most helpful thing you can have in a surfboard for Town. “The funboard I like to ride is a 5’2’’ x 19 x 2 ½ ‘Striker’ with a bat tail and quad fin set up. I love this little board! It does everything you want in a funboard. It goes fast, has a good release, and is very easy to surf.”

Josh Moniz / Hawaiian Island Creations

Luke Tema / RJ Surfboards

Moana Jones

Luke Tema

“My summer lineup is shaped by Robin Johnston: 5’1’’ swallow tail ‘Claimer’ for small waves. 5’2’’ squash tail ‘Bread & Butter’ everyday shortboard 5’4’’ round pin ‘Magma’ for overhead waves”

“My go-to is the JS Industries ‘Air 17’ thruster with squash tail, and the ‘Black Baron’ twin fin, which has a swallow tail fun for summer waves.”

Moana Jones

“My quiver for summer is pretty simple compared to winter. For summer, I usually ride a 5’2’’ by Tim Carroll or 5’3’’ by Bret Boards, and if it’s really pumping on the south side I’ll ride a 5’6’’. I picked those boards because they work good in all types of conditions and I’ve been riding boards from those two shapers since I was 12 years old. I could not be more pleased with the way their boards work!”

Makua Rothman

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Makua Rothman


STORM BLADE 5ft8 M-Retro Fish

Hawaiian Island Creations Hiper

5’8 x 22 x 2.5 | Vol.@48ltr. Wider template outlines are featured on this fun foam constructed version of a truly classic retro fish. This board has enough volume for excellent floatation whether for beginning or advanced surf level. Easy lines create a fun affordable board that will drive and carve in any condition. Complete with two 4.5in Driver fins and two rear 4.5 Ollie fins.

Shaper: Kerry Tokoro 5’10” X 18.75” X 2.38” Volume: 26.8 Liters

(714) 389-1818 info@stormbladeboards.com facebook: @stormbladeboards instagram: @stormbladeboards

The Hyper Model is the perfect go-to board for highperformance surfing in shoulderhigh and larger waves. A generous amount of continuous bottom curve makes this model loose, forgiving and responsive. The bottom features a shallow single concave with a moderate double concave, and an outline that is lean and trim. Designed for vertical surfing in and around the pocket, this board flows easily from rail to rail, generating speed with every turn. Available in squash, round, swallow and round-pin tail designs. Available at HIC’s Ala Moana, Kailua, Haleiwa, Maui Mall, Lahaina & Hilo stores. www.hicsurf.com

Hi-Tech Kazuma O'ama

RJ Surfboards The Claimer

6-2 x 19.5 x 2.45 Volume 32L

“The Claimer” was Born in celebration of today’s compact performance shortboard. With single to double-concave, medium-full rails, medium rocker and a slightly fuller outline “The Claimer” is volume adequate and forgiving. Specializing in turning in the pocket or above the lip this model provides remarkable performance for small to medium size surf and shines when pushed past critical. Ride quad or thruster. Dimensions and tail design can be customized. $420 for Poly $505 for Epoxy

Shaper: Matt Kinoshita The O'ama is a versatile board for the surfer who wants more volume without sacrificing performance. A wave-catcher that is easy to ride with fuller outline to get you through the flat spots. www.surfmaui.com

www.rjsurf.com rjsurfboards@gmail.com 1-808-738-7873 Facebook: RJ Surfboards Instagram: @RJSURFBOARDS


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Glenn Pang / T&C Surf

“My summer quiver would consist of Kerry Tokoro HICs - anything from a 5’8” to 6’2”. Usually I have a 6’2” 19 x 2 1/3 ‘Mojo’ squash tail. This is my go-to board when it’s head high (for me) to overhead. I like this board because it is fast and fits in the pocket well. I also use a little more width for those flat sections in waves to keep my speed up. All in all, I pick this board for summer because it’s fast and I feel confident, no matter if the waves get bigger or even just head high.

Kainehe Hunt

“Last but not the least fun, my funboard. 5’8” x 19 ½ x 2 ½ square tail custom shape: I ride this board mostly quad because it goes really fast and keeps the flow. With the square tail, it has a really good edge to it so you can put it on rail or release it, based on where your foot is. It is really fun for ankle to knee high waves, or even bigger. When I feel bored of riding the same old boards, I just use that.”

Kaiser Auberlen

“My go-to board for summer will be a 4'11" x 16 1/4" x 2" T&C CMG/Flux model shaped by Glenn Pang. It works great in all types of waves, is easy to ride, and does everything well. It's my favorite board. If I go on a trip to Indo or somewhere where the waves have some juice, I will ride a 5'4" step-up ‘Sidewinder’ model shaped by Glenn Pang.”

LONGBOARDS Kaniela Stewart

“My summer quiver includes my 9’0’’ x 2 ¾ inches thick x 22 ½ ‘Kani Tsunami’ model shaped by Mark Liddell. It’s a 2 plus 1 setup. I also like to ride my 9’6’’ x 3 inches thick x 23, also shaped by Mark Liddell. I like riding these boards

Ito

“6’1” x 19.06 x 2 3/8 ‘Mojo’ round tail: I use this board in anything from shoulder to head high waves when I am indecisive on whether to ride my shortboard or funboard. I pick this board for summer because it has a lot of drive from the round tail’s hard edges so I can do real turns on smaller waves.

Kaniela Stewart

Kaiser Auberlen / T&C Surf

GA

Kainehe Hunt


Iron Cross Surfboards Daily Driver

Iron Cross Surfboards California Gold

Our favorite new single fin nose rider! The Daily Driver paddles and nose rides like a dream thanks to its low rocker and subtle amount of nose concave. Keeping the board wide and thin with a 50/50 rail, Fin box box at 4’’, and its rounded squash tail keeps it stable yet turns easy.

If you had to choose only one board….

Iron Cross Surfboards 2107 San Elijo Ave. Cardiff by the sea, Ca. 92007 760-436-1900 www.ironcrosssurfboards.com instagram @ironcrosssurfboards

The California Gold is just that. It is one of our newest and very versatile models due to its design. It has a wider and slight beak nose that hides foam for easy paddling, a nice rounded pin, and hard tail edge that goes up 1/3 of the board for drive. This board is recommended as a 2+1 but could easily be fun as a single fin. Recommended wave size are as little as you want to double overhead. Shaper; Jeff Grygera Contact; Iron Cross Surfboards 2107 San Elijo Ave. Cardiff by the sea, Ca. 92007 760-436-1900 www.ironcrosssurfboards.com instagram @ironcrosssurfboards

Maui Tropix The Black Panther

T&C Surf Smokebomb

5'8" x 18.5" x 2.25"

Shaper: Glenn Pang Skill Level: Intermediate/ Advanced Surf Type: Beach, Reef, Point Wave Height: Knee, Chest, Head Tail Options: Squash or Round Fin System: Futures or FCS Setup: 3 Fin Thruster, 4 Fin Quad or 5 Fin Five

Full Carbon Maui Built squash tail by Louie Martin. Slash through the jungle, stalk, and take down prey. Maui Tropix Surf Co. 261 Dairy Road, Kahului, Maui 790 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui Piilani Shopping Center, Kihei, Maui @Maui_Tropix on instagram @MauiTropixSurfCo on facebook www.mauitropixsurfco.com Maui Built @MauiBuiltHawaii on facebook and instagram www.mauibuilthawaii.com

Lower rocker fuller outline shortboard. User friendly, easy to paddle forgiving shortboard. Deep concave making it feel really excited under your feet! Should order a little shorter and wider than your normal shortboard. www.tcsurf.com


Ito

because it doesn’t matter if the waves get overhead or below my waist - these boards are perfect. If the waves are overhead, I’ll ride my high-performance model and if the waves are ankle high, I’ll ride my log and still have so much fun!”

Kelia Moniz

Kelia Moniz

John Michael Van Hohenstein

Rock

Ito

Most of the boards that I ride are high-performance, have less rocker, and 2” in the tail. But for my log, I expect it to be flat with less nose concave. Donald Takayama’s have a defined concave, but for me, I’d rather have a slight concave, not defined and noticeable. My log would also have a heavier glass, and 50/50 rails.”

“This board that I ride is a 9'0’’ high-performance RJ Surfboard longboard. I ride this board more often when the waves are bigger!”

Keoki Saguibo

Keoki

Kai Sallas

Will Walling

In Hawai'i, I like to ride heavier boards to counter some of the windy days we have out here. Sometimes lighter boards are more susceptible to chop thus throwing the board any way it wants, but with a heavier board it plows right through the chop.

Kai Sallas

“9’6’’ Donald Takayama single fin with 50/50 rails. Glassing: 6-6 deck, 6 bottom with gloss finish. The board I ride in Hawai'i just depends on the waves. Nowadays, if it’s under head-high I’m usually going to ride a heavier single fin noserider with soft rails. When it gets overhead, I’ll ride a high-performance longboard: 9’0’’ or 9’1’’ hard edge in the tail with more rocker, like what I used growing up. The board I’m riding in the photo is a great noserider for smaller waves.” John Michael Van Hohenstein


Coastal Co. Coastal Co. is a quarterly curation of beachinspired lifestyle apparel and products. Each $99 box contains 4+ premium pieces from top brands and hot newcomers valued over $180. Visit CoastalCo.com

BLDG Active ACTIVE Skin Repair: Healing Spray & Hydrogel ACTIVE Skin Repair kills 99.9% of all bacteria and helps speed the natural healing process all while being non-toxic, antibiotic free and sting free. It works on: reef cuts, wounds, sunburns, rashes, sea lice, insect bites and more.

Hawaiian Bath & Body® It started over 15 years ago with just 8 types of natural, handcrafted soaps made with kukui oil. Today Hawaiian Bath & Body® is known worldwide for our organic, gentle and safe soaps and skincare.

Hello@bldgactive.com www.instagram.com/bldgactive

hawaiianbathbody.com

Lock Rack

O`Neill Hyperfreak Hydro As originators of the technical boardshort, O'Neill is proud to present the latest innovation in boardshort evolution: The Hyperfreak Hydro featuring the “No Tie Fly.” This brand new, fully secure closure system has never been done before, further progressing the boundary of design.

Engineered for all weather conditions, it shortens the time it takes to load and unload boards or craft. LOCKRACK does away with the hassles and headaches of straps and tie-downs and snugly secures the craft using rubberized lockable bars that readily adjust and snap into place. Its patented theftprevention system ensures no one pinches your valuable board, ski or kayak.

us.oneill.com

www.lockrackus.com

Kona Brewing Co. Growler This is sure to be your favorite new Growler, and the best way to keep your beer icy cold and carbonated all day long.The Fresh Carry System provides a leak-proof seal with improved temperature control and easy portability. We embellished the growler with our logo and the Island Chain for some extra aloha. wide. $65.00 shop.konabrewingco.com


Ribby Surfing Rash Guard The RIBBY is a surfing rash guard designed to provide sun protection and protection from sore or bruised ribs while keeping you cool and flexible. The 3mm neoprene is a low-profile shape and size that provides just the right amount of padding to keep you protected and comfortable. Give it a try, you won’t be sorry…

Rainbow Sandals HoloHolo

surfribby.com

Designed by Gerry Lopez, pipeline master and yogi guru, the Holoholo features our signature Rainbow® single layer arch support, a dynamic density rubber top sole, a serrated molded bottom, and a PU leather outer strap with a neoprene lining for instant comfort. Their truncated domes (US. Pat. No. D794,922) stimulate the nerve endings, energy channels, and pressure points that start and end in your feet and toes. Wearing them is like getting a personal foot massage. The Holoholo reminds us to always live with Aloha. WWW.RAINBOWSANDALS.COM

Salty Crew Pacifica Boardshort High performance boardshort built for durability and minimal resistance. Featuring ripstop quick dry fabrication,
welded bottom hem & inseam,
silicone interior waistband, hip grips and minimal and sleek design details.
 www.salty-crew.com

Scarfini Air Fins Base: 107mm / 4.2" Height: 112mm / 4.41" Area: 9172mm / 14.22 A well balanced template with a medium base and medium tip. Ideal for any type of surfboard in all wave conditions. www.scarfini.com

Pakaloha Big Beach Bottom Pakaloha’s first ever high-waist style! This bottom provides a little more coverage in the lower tummy area, and medium booty coverage. The stylish and fully adjustable side ties make this style versatile for all activities! Looks great paired with our Big Beach Top! $48.00 pakalohamaui.com


Sanuk Yoga Mat 3 The world’s first women’s slippahs made outta real yoga mat is now next-level Om-azing! Starring all-new arch supports and comfy contoured footbeds, sleek and stretchy straps, and super-flexible outsoles— Sanuk’s Yoga Mat 3 blesses your every step with that dreamy, enlightened feeling PRICE: $45 www.sanuk.com/womens-flip-flops/yoga-mat-3/1099404.html​

Sanuk Beer Cozy 3 Straight from the brew lab comes Sanuk’s best-ever Beer Cozy slippahs. An all-new recipe with a refreshing dose of anatomically awesome comfort—feeturing arch support and a fresh, flexy strap design. Adventure-friendly, the super grippy and flexy outsole means Beer Cozy 3’s ready to shred. Please enjoy irresponsibly. ($45) PRICE: $45 www.sanuk.com/mens-flip-flops/beer-cozy-3/1099396.html

Introducing the Lowdown Steel The iconic Lowdown from Smith now Smith comes with a metal edge. The Lowdown 2 Lowdown Steel

Steel reimagines the familiar silhouette with The iconic Lowdown from Smith now comes with a metal lightweight, stainless steel temples. A modern edge. The Lowdown 2 Steel reimagines look with all the featuresthe youfamiliar need. silhouette with lightweight, stainless steel temples. A modern look with Price: $199.00 all the features you need. $199.00

Vans Surf Trunk Vans’ new groundbreaking Surf Trunk design integrates a unique, patent-pending trunk lock, a progressive side closure system to provide an easy, adjustable, and secure fit. Radical in design, the Vans Surf Trunk is built without a traditional front-facing fly or inseam and premium fabrics that strike the perfect balance of stretch and strength to enable all-day surf performance. www.vans.com

Surf N Sea SurfNSea X Hurley Collaboration Zipper Hoodie with exclusive Surfer X-ing text design. Men’s size S,M, L, XL. Also available in T-shirt. $55 surfnsea.com


S U R F

A R T

Lauren Roth

Kailua Artist + Female Powerhouse Story and photos by Alexandra Kahn

many unconventional products. The gallery is spacious, bright, and aesthetically pleasing, displaying her work as well as that of other talented artists.

It’s hard to categorize Lauren Roth as an artist because what she has accomplished thus far in her young career would classify her as an artfocused businesswoman. A few words used to describe her include: cheery, determined, inspiring, focused, and confident. To start, Roth is only 34 years old and has collaborated with brands such as Whole Foods, Nordstrom, Nautica, Rip Curl and local Hawai'i brands like Fighting Eel and Lanikai Juice.

"The featured artists at the gallery rotate every few months. When I decided to open the gallery, I knew that would be a huge part of the concept. I really wanted to create a space for artists, mostly up-andcoming, to also share their work. It was something that really helped me get started early on, and I wanted to create that same opportunity for others. So far, we have had two rounds of featured artists. The first time we featured three [artists], and currently have two in there now. It's also a fun way to engage the community by hosting a ‘Meet the Artists’ event every few months."

“How do you make contact with all of these big companies?” Freesurf Magazine asked Roth. “They find me! Rip Curl found me through some of my work on display at a gallery in town.” As an artist, getting that big break is the only thing separating a talented, passionate creative from a being a success or a flop. Roth is grateful for her good luck.

Roth moved to Hawai'i from New Jersey in 2008 when she accepted a transfer position during her role as a Whole Foods artist. This was just one of many opportunities that brought her to today’s success. Stepping into the art studio, which is connected to her home in Kailua, the same happy feeling of her gallery returns. Drawings of various colors cover the room. A desk sits in one corner entirely covered in paint, and the desk chair has been used hundreds of times to wipe off paint-covered brushes and fingertips.

In November, Roth opened her gallery alongside her husband who manages the business side of things. Her gallery is located on some of Kailua’s prime real estate, proving her success as an artist and businesswoman. The gallery is not only full of paintings ranging in color, medium, size, and style, but she has also transposed her creative work onto products such as bags, journals, t-shirts, pillow covers, coasters, and postcards, to name a few. Her recent collaboration with Rip Curl adds bathing suits, hats, and dresses to the list.

For as long as she can remember, art was her passion and her plan — often the two key elements of being a successful businessperson. She was persistent and stuck to a path that allowed her to pursue her passion, even though she never received formal business training. Despite some bumps and bruises along her way, determination and a friendly demeanor certainly helped pave the way. Being an

The good vibes are contagious upon entering her gallery. The colorful shapes are soothing, inspired by the beautiful nature of the Hawaiian Islands. Some of her work has a fantasy element to it, while other pieces bridge the gap between painted-pattern and paintedobject, which explains why she transferred her designs on to so

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entrepreneur is never easy, regardless of what the business entails. Freesurf was curious about how her great success at such a young age has shaped her: “[Art] is such a big part of me and very personal, but it is also my business and livelihood, so it can sometimes be a tricky balance. Learning to not take things personally, or to just keep my head up and stay focused on my ideas and goals, took some time. I would say one of the hardest parts was learning the business end of things and keeping up with that, plus every other thing that comes along with running a business alone; that was, and still can be, exhausting.” As her life changed, so did her artistic style. She finds influence in her surroundings; the work she produces changes in color, mood, and subject, depending on her location. However, she maintains consistent with a whimsical theme. While nature inspires most of her current art, all of her painting occurs within her studio. She always carries a sketchbook and camera phone to capture inspiration, but the magic happens at her colorful, paint-covered desk. What’s next for Lauren Roth? She tells Freesurf, “In the long term I would like to continue to expand my home décor line to include more designs and more products like bedding, etc.” Additionally, she is pleased to be opening a second gallery in Japan which will expand the exposure of her work, as Japan is a place where she spends much of her time and has contributed to much of her artistic success.

Ukuleles 100% handmade in Haleiwa, Hawaii

Ukuleles by

Joe Green

Available at: Surf N Sea, Wy’s Gallery in Haleiwa and Ukulele Puapua in Waikiki

JoeGreenUkulele.com / 808.637.7873


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Bianca Valenti

Scotty Bredensen

Emi Erickson

Nelscott Reef Pro Big Wave Event Lights Up Oregon By Shannon Reporting Photos Richard Hallman

Thirty big wave surfers gathered in the Pacific Northwest on Sunday, March 10, 2019, for the Kaizen Institute Nelscott Reef Pro — Oregon’s big wave contest. Featuring a $10,000 prize purse sponsored by Bahama Boards & Buds, 24 male competitors and four female chargers threw on thick, seven mil rubber to bear the chilly water of Lincoln City. Hawai'i surfers participating included Jamie Sterling, Trevor Sven Carlson, and Emi Erickson — who took first place in the women’s division. Although the ladies were given the first hour of the day to surf amongst themselves, the rest of the event featured a co-ed expression session. Unlike a Big Wave Tour event, the Lincoln City gathering had no formal heats or jerseys… which was a bit hectic at times (although I would describe all big wave contests to be “organized chaos”). In fact, the Nelscott Reef Pro was similar to a freesurf with some big wave all-stars and local talent. During the athlete safety meeting that took place the night prior to the event, the surfers decided to split the prize money evenly, making for a friendlier lineup. Some of the locals described the event as the most crowded session they had experienced at their cold water spot, but the good vibes in the water and plenty of swell on tap allowed everyone to get some bombs and enjoy the ideal conditions Nelscott Reef had to offer. Big congrats to Hawai'i’s Emi Erickson taking the victory in the women’s event! As voted by the surfers, the 2019 Kaizen Institute Nelscott Reef Pro Champions are: Jojo Roper and Emi Erickson in first place; tied for second were Nic Lamb, Anthony Tashnick, Joseph Hardeman, and Bianca Valenti - by one vote in the women’s division; and Chris Mumford and Raquel Heckert in third. Thanks to event director Gabe Smith and all the locals for taking such good care of us while covering the event and for sharing the love of big wave surfing!

Nic Lamb

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Moku Team Rider: Kaniela Stewart Photo:Keoki

RENTALS - LESSONS - SALES Meeting All Your Surfing Needs With Aloha! Now four convenient locations... Waikiki, Hale’iwa, Long Beach NY and our newest location, Playa Jobos, Isabela, PR

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N E W S

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ValentinaResano, HokulaniToppings

Sage Tutterow

NSSA Kewalos By Shannon Reporting

Photos gOnzo

We’re stoked to be the official media sponsor of NSSA Hawai'i! Our drone flew over Kewalos for competition at beautiful Hawai'i Nei. The Finals were held on Friday, March 22nd. What a great day of action at Kewalos for the 2019 NSSA competition!

Luana Silva

Makai and Jerry Burdine

Talan Lillyman,Keone Roitman, Konan Riddleberger

HayleeBoverman, ChristlynSimpson

Rocky Cannon


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Mason Ho

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Tom Curren

Sheldon Paishon

2019

ROCKY POINT CLASSIC

Eala Stewart

IN MEMORY OF CHAS CHIDESTER

Story and photos by Manny “Gonzo” Gonzalez

“Watch the boys battle it out for the cash!” On Sunday, March 24th, O'ahu’s Rocky Point hosted an important annual surf contest for the local community, featuring some of the best rippers on the North Shore. This year, the contest was dedicated to our late friend Chas Chidester who tragically passed away in April of 2018 at the young age of 29. Keoni Burger helped organize the Rocky Point Classic to relight the stoke, with help from sponsors Nanocraft CBD and Pupukea Grill.

Nalu Wallace and Mason Ho

Conditions were pretty good with overhead sets all day on a NNW decreasing, but steady swell going both directions with favorable trade winds. Heats were 30 minutes long in a freesurfing format (no colored jerseys) with judges Bret Marumoto, Tom Curren, Drew Pringle and Skyler Close keeping their eyes on the action at Rockies. The day’s good vibes included a barbeque where friends, family, and legends like Derek Ho enjoyed a beautiful day of great waves. Congrats to our main-man Mason Ho for his epic win! Chas is proud of you, and we are too!

Contest winners Champion - Mason Ho $1,000 Best Burn Job - Keoni “Cheeseburger” Nozaki $100 Best Barrel - Luke Shepardson $100 Best Aerial - Eala Stewart $100

Flynn Novak

Mason and Michael Ho


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Barron Mamiya and Rocky Cannon

Eli Olson, Zoard, Kiron Jabour, and Nathan Florence

Keito Matsuoka

O’NEILL WAVE OF THE WINTER Words by Shannon Reporting Photos gOnzo

Guy Hagi and ohana

Japan’s Keito Matsuoka just won the 2019 O’Neill Wave of the Winter powered by Surfline after surfing the wave of a lifetime at Pipe this season. And he is STOKED! It’s not every day you score a 12 out of 10. This massive barrel surfed during the DaHui Backdoor Shootout event in January just rewarded Matsuoka with a $25,000 check for the 2019 Wave of the Winter. We were stoked to witness it live, and celebrate with the nominees at the official awards ceremony at the Republik in Honolulu. Check out the photo gallery below. Until next season!

Benji Brand

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Burger, Keito Matsuoka, Kekoa Bacalso and friends.


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North Shore Soap Factory on Oahu’s

North Shore

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North Shore Soap Factory 67-106 Kealohanui Street, Waialua HI 96791


S T U F F

W E

L I K E

STORM BLADE 9FT PERFORMANCE SSR Generous outlines and a nicely calibrated thickness make surfing the Storm Blade Classic Surfboard an unparalleled experience for beginners to advanced. The stalwart yet forgiving foam layered construction provides a complete fun inspiring time whether in any surf condition or just a nice float on the lake. The bolt through thruster set-up keeps the drive and speed needed to push the limits. Available in four sizes from 10ft to 7ft and includes a double swivel leash.

AxisGO

AxisGO transforms your iPhone into a powerful underwater camera. Shoot stunning photos and capture high quality video with a camera you already own and allow AxisGO to protect your phone from the elements. With tactile controls and full touch screen capability you can easily use your favorite apps and shoot, share and keep on top of social media with AxisGO.

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The Aloha Spirit. available by the pint.

Enjoy some “Liquid Aloha” at Hawaii’s favorite craft brewery. Kona Brewing Co, Koko Marina Pub 7192 Kalaniana’ole Highway Honolulu, Hawaii 96825 808.396.5662

Kona Brewing Co, Brewery and Pub 74-5612 Pawai Place Kailua Kona, Hawaii 96740 808.334.2739

MAHALO FOR DRINKING RESPONSIBLY, 21+ KONA BREWING CO, LIQUID ALOHA, HI.

One life, right? Don’t blow it.


WSL / Cestari

I N DUSTRY NOTE S

Kauai’s Keala Kennelly is officially the 2019 Big Wave Tour Champion! Her win at the Jaws Challenge this winter secured her spot as the top female big wave surfer on tour. South Africa’s Grant “Twiggy” Baker claimed his third world title in the men’s division. Kennelly delivered a moving acceptance speech that wowed the crowd at the WSL Awards, held in Australia: “Women are now uplifting other women. That’s how we do things. It’s the ripple effect that’s changing the world. When I was a little girl, I had this big, crazy dream that one day they would invite a woman to compete in The Eddie. Then I grew up and I became that woman. So, what I’ve got to say to you is, ‘Dream the big, crazy dreams because you never know which ones are going to come true.’” - Keala Kennelly

SU RF R IB BY. CO M

A fire at the Waialua Sugar Mill was estimated to have caused over $1.2 million in damages, destroying two businesses. No one was reported injured. KHON reported on March 20th that “fire crews from all around O‘ahu were called to the historic Waialua Sugar Mill for a three-alarm fire this afternoon that caused nearly $1.2 million in damage.” Drew Sparrow, owner of Sparrow Surfboards located in the Sugar Mill, told KHON, "It was my friend Dan Moore's wood shop and there's lots of lumber that was in there and I think that most of it just fueled the fire."

Local Makaha surfer Sheldon Paishon is now working with shaper Matt Biolos, thanks to a new partnership with ...Lost Surfboards. “Dreams do come true! Thank you very much ...Lost Surfboards! Growing up and watching all my favorite surfers on these boards made me always wish I was on a Mayhem Surfboard. Beyond stoked and honored; looking forward to the future. Thanks again to everybody over there. My boards’ names are Pink Panther, Green Dog, and Tony the Tiger.” - Sheldon Paishon

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A TRIP FOR TWO ON ALASKA AIRLINES only at Jamba Kapahulu located at 625 Kapahulu Avenue

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IND USTRY NOTE S

One grand prize winner

will receive two (2) roundtrip tickets to the west coast on Alaska Airlines. Winner will be chosen from a random drawing.

1. post a selfie or photo with your favorite Nick Kuchar Art at Jamba Kapahulu

2. @jambahawaii on Instagram

Moana Jones signed with Hurley. “Thank you so much to Joel Centeio and Hurley for this opportunity! So stoked.”

3. make sure your account is public

4. post your photo and tag #jambahawaii No purchase necessary to enter or win. Open only to legal U.S. Residents who are residing in the state of Hawaii and are 18 years of age or older. Odds of winning a prize depends on the number of eligible entries received. Visit our Kapahulu location to enter, 625 Kapahulu Avenue; or visit www.jambahawaii.com for full Official Rules and details. Please see Official Rules for details on all methods of entry.

Hi-Tech Surf Sports in Kahului, Maui won the "Hawaii Retailer of the Year" at the Surf Industry Manufacturers Association (SIMA) Awards, honoring the best in the surf industry! This was the first time that SIMA has included retail stores.

Kauai’s Gabriela Bryan won the Surf N Sea Pipeline Women’s Pro in the shortboard division. The contest was held April 2nd in challenging conditions. Second place was Hawaiian Melanie Bartels, with a great comeback in her competitive career. Third place was Nicaragua’s Candelaria Resano, only 13 years old, and in fourth was the North Shore’s own Luana Silva.


IND USTRY NOTES

Sun Bum Celebrates 10 Years of Vinyl Figurines With LimitedEdition Series. Cartoon renditions of Julian Wilson, Filipe Toledo, Zak Noyle and more. 10 years ago, Sun Bum introduced a vinyl figurine depicting its stoic, sunglasses-clad ape mascot, “Sonny.” Part of the long list of core values that complement its lifestyle aesthetics, the conception of the beach-bum simian was a nod to the collectible memorabilia that the likes of Kaws and BE@RBRICK were dropping at the time. According to the Founder, Tom Rinks, “When we started the brand we had a bunch of Kid Robot vinyls on our shelves and thought it would be rad to make a logo that could also be a vinyl.” Evolving over the years has allowed the imprint to keep its finger on the pulse of the community that it takes influences from, but as the brand has grown, the sun care line hasn’t gotten too big to not show reverence to the mavens moving forward the Sun Bum way of life.

@freesurfmag

This want to stay further connected led the brand to establish an ambassador program that brought together a collective of creatives, from surfing, music and art, who inspire Sun Bum and their respective communities to be better. Underscoring this group alongside celebrating a decade since the introduction of its first toy, its “crazy talented” friends have been memorialized in a series of limitededition 5” vinyl collectibles, featuring Julian Wilson, Filipe Toledo, Zak Noyle, Malia Manuel, Barron Mamiya, Bede Durbidge, Kyuss King and Rasmus King.

Fifteen-year-old pro surfer Valentina Resano, from Nicaragua, smashed her face on the reef at Pipeline last week during a freesurf, resulting in five stitches and a nasty wound. She’s in good spirits but was bummed to miss out on the Pipeline Women’s Pro contest which was held the day after her injury. Luckily, her little sister, 13-year-old Candelaria, made it to the finals for a third-place finish, honoring her big sis.


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L A S T

L O O K

April's lack of rain on the North Shore sometimes creates moments of remarkable water clarity like this one of Jamie O'Brien at Backdoor. Photo: Austin Moore


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Freesurf V16N5 Beach & Board Buyer's Guide  

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