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Dancing W/ Molly A/W 2014

Digital Fashion

Over this project we were given the task to take inspiration from a brand, I choose Miley Cyrus mixed with William Bourgeau. Supprisingly, the two shared a link. William Bourgeau > Painted “The Birth of Venus” > who is a Godess in Roman Mythology > who has similarities to the Greek Mythological Godess, Aphrodite > Aphrodite was a character in Disney’s Hercules > Miley Cyrus started as a Disney Princess. They link. I used a range of digital software such as Kaledo, Domino, Modaris and a 3D software which enabled the designer to veiw a virtaul garment on an avatar, so the designer would be able to get the pattern peices just right.


Diamano Lay plan of tshirt. This shall be printed out onto the plot printer, allowing me to get my exact pattern peice.

Kaledo flat with chosen Print on Tshirt, shown in a Working Sketch. Personalised with my own logo.

My 3D fitted Tshirt, worn by miley, created my desk of stitches taken from my Modaris Variant

Modaris, showing my tshirt i created and alterd, i created a Variant which enabled me to transfer the information into Diamano.


Creative Realisation

In this Capsule collection, I wanted to look into Witchs. naol, imposing women who defend themselves and speak of types

are

This a

collection is supposed to speak, and ooze the power of puritan, the elegance and leadership of Indira Ghandi and the justice powerfull.

of

women

All

I

want

to

clothe,

meaningfull.

and

these

Wanting

WITCH A/W 2014

are

the

are fantastic, powerfull, inspiratibeliefs with passion and power.

These

All

the

Witchs their

to

women

I

a and

will

get

Witch, nobility

change

of

inspiration

from.

the style Joan of

of Arc.

the

World.


50 designs


Market Research

Whilst I was creating my collection, I researched what other designers had taken a simaler approach to my Inspiration. The two which stood out the most with similarites where Alexander McQueen (Pre-Fall 2013) and Marc Jacobs (Fall 2012)


swatchs examples of shirts


Flat garments


Creative Drawing and Digital Application


Sinking like a Hero, Life is so Heavy Death, A new splendor. Who hast given me bliss.


Design: Process and Application DENIM +

Design: Process and Application Title page


DENIM

This cotton fabric is named after the place it was originally milled in, Nimes in France. It is generally accepted that the sailors in fifteenth century Italy, particularly the Genoese wore trousers of this material. Garibaldi in the 1860’s chose to wear trousers from this fabric. In the 1870’s, in the American gold rush the wearing of denim workers trousers or jeans really took off. Denim is incredibly hard wearing so was the ideal fabric of choice for work wear. Denim has found an iconic place in Western culture. We automatically associate the American farmers in the Dust Bowl in the Great Depression of the 30’s with denim dungarees. In the 1950’s denim jeans were linked with the idealised view of the cowboy as portrayed in the movies. The cowboy with white Stetson turned up jeans and strumming a guitar became a frontier fantasy look that American city folk wanted to aspire to, the cachet of the American West. In the 1950’s denim jeans as worn by Marlon Brando in ‘The Wild One’ and James Dean in ‘Rebel without a Cause’ became a symbol of rebellion against the establishment. Society feared this non-conformity so much that denim jeans were banned in schools. This only encouraged teenagers to wear them more. By the 1960’s jeans began to be worn by the middle classes. However in the American Pop era jeans were also worn as a symbol of protest. Denim jeans became THE item of clothing to wear by teenagers and young adults. Gay men in the later 60’s appropriated denim jeans and the flat caps traditionally worn by working, therefore ‘macho’ men to signify their strength and protest. Torn, dirty jeans on rent boys in Times Square signaled their availability for business. Sub-cultural groups through previous decades have appropriated certain types of denim garments to signify their association with the members of that group; the punks adopted the black denim vest as their symbol. By the seventies jeans and denim became more mainstream and established as a fashion trend. During this era denim jeans became synonymous with rock stars, especially male stars, tight skinny jeans, bare chests and long hair symbolised sex infused rock-festival ideals. The seventies was also the beginning of designer denim jeans. The Fashion industry today continues to use denim and invent new ways of producing an incredibly vast range of different garments. In Miu Miu’s Spring Summer 2013 collection blue denim haute couture garments were edged in velvet, lined in duchesse silk, I love the juxtaposition of luxurious fabrics and embellishments with street-cred denim. Nowadays denim fabric can be treated in many different ways to give different finishes. Denim is generally a yarn dyed fabric, where the yarn is dyed and then woven into the fabric. Many processes need to be carried out in the dyeing process, depending on what colour strength and fading effect is required. For example sulphur-bottom dyeing produces a grey or yellowy vintage look. Overdyeing to specific areas can create dirty denim. Sometimes though garment dyeing takes place. It all depends what is needed or in fashion at the time. At the moment the trend is for tie-dyed denim. Sanforization is a process that pre-shrinks the fabric. The denim industry launders garments to achieve different ‘feels’ and casts (shades) to the denim and to re-create the natural areas of wear at certain points on the garment. The laundry is now really big business in denim with laundries in the USA, Italy and Japan. Stones or sand may be used in the process of achieving the right look and feel of the fabric. Stone-washing involves the use of pumice stones in enormous washing machines, the longer the treatment the lighter the fabric. River-washing introduces the stones first then enzymes resulting in a vintage look. With acid wash pumice stones are soaked in chlorine before the stone-washing and this treatment results in contrasting finishes with individual patterns. Even sand paper may be used to produce a softer fabric. Micro-sanding produces a suede-like finish to the surface of the fabric. Denim was originally made from cotton yarn alone now it can include polyamide, Lycra and many other man made yarns to provide durability and stretch. The fabric can be coated with other materials including rubber to give a different appearance. Denim has always been re-invented and continues to be altered to suit fashion trends. Blue is the most traditional colour of denim but for this project I have chosen to use white denim. White denim is denim yarn that is bleached instead of being dyed blue or coloured. I liked the idea of the modernity of the colour white, its symbolism and the fact that it will still have the somewhat utilitarian connotations of denim. My finished garment will have, because of the colour a difference about it. It is a contradiction; white is not usually a practical colour. This will not be a garment for working in. Historically denim was associated with masculinity today denim garments are a key element in everyone’s wardrobe. Every season denim pieces are re-invented. There are new cuts, different embellishments and treatments. Denim particularly as jeans has a sense of individuality about it. It is casual, it is incredibly versatile, it is democratic and versatile. Finally it can be all things to all people and timeless.


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