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Page 1

THE JUNGLE OF THE FUTURE

FASHION PORTFOLIO

www.fran-ruiz.com


www.fran-ruiz.com info@fran-ruiz.com in/franruizdesign (+34) 604022346


THE JUNGLE O


OF THE FUTURE

Figure 1. Kanha National Park (India)


INDEX


1.

CONCEPT......................................................................... page 1

2.

THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK....................................... page 3

3.

INVESTIGATION............................................................. page 5

4.

TRENDS RESEARCH...................................................... page 11

5.

COLORS............................................................................ page 13

6.

FABRICS........................................................................... page 14

7.

TELL STORY..................................................................... page 15

8.

MOODBOARD................................................................. page 19

9.

DESIGNS.......................................................................... page 21

10. FLAT DRAWINGS............................................................ page 23 11. COLLECTION................................................................... page 31 12. FASHION FILM................................................................ page 45 13. CONCLUSIONS............................................................... page 47 14. REFERENCES.................................................................. page 49


Figure 2. Original illustration of the Jungle Book

1

Figure 3. Original illustration of the Jungle Book


Figure 4. Original illustration of the Jungle Book

CONCEPT I have been inspired by Kippling’s literary work, “The Jungle Book”, because I want to tell the story of British imperialism in India from a new and fresh point of view. In Kipling’s literary work, Mowgli is abandoned in the jungle by his family. Growing up with animals, it takes as a rule the learnings that they show him since childhood. The problem arises when the protagonist of the story begins to grow older and look more like a man. That is when the animals reject Moglwi, believing that he is appropriating and can cause them harm in the future. However, the protagonist is not appropriating, he is appreciating it and integrating it as his own, since it has been the model with which he has been raised. “Are we talking about lineage and race?” (Moreno, 2018). 2


1858-1947

Figure 5. Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom

Figure 6. Famine in India

1. BEGINNING

2. DEVELOPMENT

“India is ruled by the name of Queen Victoria”

“The British colonial government left a million Indians to starve”

(Maldonado, 1873, p. 249).

(Patel, 2016).

3


1858-1947

1947-2020

Figure 7. Workers rest in any corner after a 12-hour workday (Jann Pictures®) 3. END “Machines and humans end up fused in the same thing, without the possibility of distinguishing them. Even minors work piecework on fabrics that will eventually decorate the cabinets of Western countries. An x-ray of the so-called fast fashion, based on the speed imposed by large textile chains. Work for 12 hours by day, with virtually no time for a break or to eat. They shower half dressed and sleep in any corner, stretched over the mountains of cloth they make, and their eyes of exhaustion call for help. Workers cannot escape a job where the struggle to improve their conditions is impossible without collaboration and unity.” (Meeguer (2018), La Vanguardia)

THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK

4


SARI Saris wrapping the body, entering and leaving the garments as if they were a maze.

Figure 8. Saree

5


DUPATTA “Scarf or stole that is worn around the shoulders or over the head ”(Sandhu, 2014, p. XV).

Figure 10. Dupatta

INVESTIGATION Figure 9. Saree

6


SIKHARA That Indian temple has a kind of reticulate similar to a honeycomb, wich looks like bee nest and it is precisely that idea what inspires me to use it as sewing technique.

Figure 11. Detail shot of Sikhara 7


GOPURAM “The entire surface of the Gopuram becomes a throbbing mass of gods and goddesses, angels and demons, who inhabit the world of Hindu mythology.� (Jermsawatdi, 1979, p. 120).

Figure 12. Gopuram Temple

8


Figure 13. Elephant with drawn flowers 9


PRINTS Prints inspired by nature like flowers.

10


Figure 14. Kimsooja Performance, “Bottari truck migrateurs” ”2007

Conceptual reference

11

Figure 15. Chistian Dior “Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear”

Silhouette reference


TRENDS RESEARCH

Figure 16. Dolce & Gabbana “Alta Moda Autumn/Winter 2018”

Visual & Artistic reference

Figure 17. BoohooMAN sport tracksuit, 2019

Fabrics & Aesthetics reference

12


PANTONE®

PANTONE®

PANTONE®

PANTONE®

PANTONE®

18-5845 TCX

17-4402 TCX

19-4029 TCX

19-2045 TCX

14-0955 TCX

Lush Meadow

13

Neutral Gray

Navy Peony

Vivacious

Citrus


COLORS & FABRICS

Green, Yellow & White Saree 100% silk

Cotton French Terry 100% cotton

Pink & Green Saree 100% silk

Denim 97% cotton 3% spandex

Silk crepe 100% silk

Blue & Pink Sequins Embroidered Saree 100% silk 14


Yamir and Alisha got up early in the morning, it’s time to go to the textile factory where they work. Both are very poor and work too many hours to have something to eat. The factory where they work are the suppliers of the European multinationals that create their garments in cheap labor countries. Both are big fashion fans, but they don’t earn enough money to go shopping at the big Fashion Houses they admire, that Houses that are luminous beacon that captivates their hearts. So they take advantage of the scraps they scrap at the factory to create their own outfits, such as denim or sweatshirt, which are trend in Europe now. They cut their ancestral saris and fuse them with the fabrics of European tendency, and, for the first time in a long time, they are finally sewing for pleasure, for love of sewing and fashion, and not for survival. Yamir and Alisha are walking in the early morning through the collapsed streets of New Delhi towards their work, they only observe cement, decay, poverty, with thousands of broken dreams. - “Who can realize that many years ago, all of this we see now was a beautiful jungle?” - Alisha tells Yamir. + “This is how the Jungles of the Future will be now, Alisha” - Yamir replies.

15

Figure 18. Yamuna River (New D


TELL STORY

Delhi). World’s most polluted urban river

Figure 19. Working conditions of workers in India

Figure 20. Indian Jungle

16


Figure 21. Indian girl. 17


18


MOODBOARD

19 19


INDIA IS RULED BY THE NAME OF QUEEN VICTORIA

20


DESIGNS

21


22


FLAT DRAWINGS

23


24


25


26


27


28


29


30


COLLECTION

31


32


33


34


35


36


37


38


39


40


41


42


43


44


https://www youtube.com watch?v=TB

https://www.yo Watch it 45


w. m/ BeM8iHM3wc

outube.com/watch?v=TBeM8iHM3wc t online

FASHION FILM 46


CONCLUSIONS

47


Fashion is not about fabrics and patterns, these needs were met many centuries ago. Nowadays fashion is a dialectic, a message. So my conclusions are not based on sewing or trend techniques, my conclusions are about the message I want to convey through fashion. Personally, I believe that these subhuman beliefs are not exclusively caused by fast fashion, they are also because of the poverty and devastation generated by European imperialism. While historically invading countries, such as the United Kingdom, Spain, Germany or France, enjoy a good economy and optimal working conditions, it is the colonized countries, such as India or Congo, that suffer the consequences, meanwhile they are even richer in natural resources. Europeans exploit their natural resources and, consequently, their population, in order to enrich ourselves, but we do not impose the same subhuman conditions in Europe that we demand from them. So I decided to criticize this situation and reflect this reality with the design itself. These people massively make garments for more than twelve hours a day, without stopping to eat, so that European textile chains can be enriched by selling those products to the western population, which “needs a great variety of garments that it does not use because they adorn very well in our closets” (Meeguer, 2018). Thus maintaining perpetually the system of superiority of the first world over this kind of countries, and generating a “nonviolent” excavization over the rest of developing countries, which I conclude considering it as contemporary European imperialism, we, the Europeans, have appropriated the entire world. WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE OF THE FUTURE

48


BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. Barnard, N. (2014). Indian Textiles. Londres: Thames & Hudson. 2. Crill, R. (2015). The Fabric of India. Londres: Thames & Hudson. 3. Fotheringham, A. (2019). Indian Textile Patterns and Techniques: A Sourcebook. Londres: Thames & Hudson. 4. Fotheringham, A. (2019). The Indian Textile Sourcebook: Patterns and Techniques. Londres: Thames & Hudson. 5. Kipling, R. (2017). El libro de la Selva. Barcelona: BLUME. 6. Kuldova, T. (2017). Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique (Materializing Culture). Londres: Bloomsbury. 7. Naipaul, V. (2015). Una zona de oscuridad: El descubrimiento de la India (Ensayo y Pensamiento). Barcelona: Editorial Debate. 8. Paulin, A., & Hillery, J. (2009). Ethics in the Fashion Industry. Londres: Bloomsbury. 9. Rocca, F. (2009). Contemporary Indian fashion. Ediz. illustrata. Valenza: Damiani. 10. Sandhu, A. (2014). Indian Fashion: Tradition, Innovation, Style. Oxford: Berg Publishers. 11. Singh, A. (2017). Evolution Of Indian Fashion. Seattle: Amazon Digital Services LLC. 12. Van Gelder, B. (2018). Traditional Indian Jewellery: The Golden Smile of India. Suffolk: ACC Art Books.

REFERENCES

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PICTURES Figure 1. Kanha National Park (India). 5/12/2019, from Medium. Website: https://medium.com/@crazyindiatour/kanha-nationalpark-the-dwell-of-india-ddba4c0eca1b Figure 2. Original illustration of the Jungle Book. 5/12/2019, from PookPress. Website: https://www.pookpress.co.uk/shop/thejungle-book-illustrated-by-john-lockwood-kipling/ Figure 3. Original illustration of the Jungle Book. 5/12/2019, from PookPress. Website: https://www.pookpress.co.uk/shop/thejungle-book-illustrated-by-john-lockwood-kipling/ Figure 4. Original illustration of the Jungle Book. 5/12/2019, from PookPress. Website: https://www.pookpress.co.uk/shop/thejungle-book-illustrated-by-john-lockwood-kipling/ Figure 5. Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom. 5/12/2019, from RuizHealyTimes. Website: https://www.ruizhealytimes.com/undia-como-hoy/de-1877-victoria-de-inglaterra-se-convirtio-en-laprimera-emperatriz-de-la-india Figure 6. Famine in India. 5/12/2019, from BBC. Website: https:// www.bbc.com/mundo/noticias-internacional-36507745 Figure 7. Workers rest in any corner after a 12-hour workday (Jann Pictures®). 5/12/2019, from LaVanguardia. Website: https://www.lavanguardia.com/cultura/20180111/434198848911/ machines-dura-realidad-fast-fashion-industria-textil-india.html Figure 8. Saree. 5/12/2019, from Audaces. Website: https://www. audaces.com/es/en-la-india-no-todo-son-saris-conoce-al-salwarkameez/ Figure 9. Saree. 5/12/2019, from Pinterest. Website: https://www. pinterest.es/pin/767441592723545453/?lp=true Figure 10. Dupatta. 5/12/2019, from Pinterest. Website: https:// www.pinterest.es/pin/468655904970888857/

Figure 12. Gopuram Temple. 5/12/2019, from Piming. Website: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/06/ac/ d4/06acd4df7eacaad3ddfb5ed2bb9ff720.jpg Figure 13. Elephant with drawn flowers. 5/12/2019, from Pinterest. Website: https://www.pinterest.es/ pin/409405422372935558/?lp=true Figure 14. Kimsooja Performance, “Bottari truck migrateurs” 2007. 5/12/2019, from ElCultural. Website: https://elcultural.com/ Kimsooja Figure 15. Chistian Dior “Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear”. 5/12/2019, from Vogue. Website: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall2019-ready-to-wear/christian-dior Figure 16. Dolce & Gabbana “Alta Moda Autumn/Winter 2018”. 5/12/2019, from Vogue. Website: https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/ autumn-winter-2018-couture/dolce-gabbana-alta-moda Figure 17. BoohooMAN sport tracksuit, 2019. 5/12/2019, from Pinterest. Website: https://www.pinterest.cl/ pin/161637074114898879/?lp=true Figure 18. Yamuna River (New Delhi). World’s most polluted urban river. 5/12/2019, from ElCultural. Website: https://elcultural. com/Un-proyecto-multidisciplinar-para-salvar-Nueva-Delhi Figure 19. Working conditions of workers in India. 5/12/2019, from UPSOCL. Website: http://www.upsocl.com/mundo/este-es-elverdadero-estado-de-las-fabricas-de-ropa-la-mayoria-de-lastrabajadoras-son-mujeres/ Figure 20. Indian Jungle. 5/12/2019, from Piming. Website: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/89/ c2/96/89c29640319b1caed0a098a722677b32.jpg Figure 21. Indian girl. 5/12/2019, from Pinterets. Website: https:// www.pinterest.es/pin/704672672928067552/

Figure 11. Detail shot of Sikhara. 5/12/2019, from Stocksy Website: https://www.stocksy.com/es/457383/khajuraho-templepattern-detail

50


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FASHION PORTFOLIO - FRAN RUIZ  

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