Page 1

The

Other Side

of

Roberto Bolle


FALL 2013

Editor in Chief Francesco Di Maio

Travel & Culture Editor Dafne Perticarini

PR & Communications Federica Fatale

Social Media China Cheng Cheng Wei

Photo Credits Andreas Larsson (cover) Luciano Romano (Roberto Bolle) Alessandro Lanciotti (p. 30 top) Simone Monopoli, GQ Italy (p. 30 bottom) Tak Kuroha, Fallen Angel Fashion Film (p. 31 top) Lorenzo Marcucci, L’ Autre! Magazine (p. 31 bottom) Livia Alcalde, Homotography Exclusive ( p. 32) Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese Consortium (p. 96)

Contact Info 1123-25 Clinton Street, #305 Philadelphia, PA 19107 info@uomo-moderno.com Graphic Design Cecilia Giménez de Paz design@gimenezdepaz.com

Uomo Moderno™ is a quarterly publication of Men’s Fashion by Francesco. © 2013, All Rights Reserved ISSN 2329-9258

4

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


The new Maserati Quattroporte has been chosen as the winner of the “Best of the Best Sedan� by the top US lifestyle magazine, The Robb Report.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

5


what’s inside

Content

FASHION 14

48

Rumjungle

Meltin’Pot

In Their Own Words

Back to the Future

26

54

55DSL

Royal Hem

It’s Time for a Showdown

The Brit Run

30

62

Diesel

Angelo Galasso

Urban Camouflage

Autumn Winter Forever

39

70

AleRo

Tonello

Gum-glasses

A Salute to Craftsmanship

40

76

Nico Didonna

Lucio Vanotti

The Designer from Puglia

A “Fabritect” at Heart

The Dancer We Love

45

80

The Other Side

Nico Didonna

Peter Non

Roberto Bolle & Friends

The Modern Jazz Era

The Non-Shoe

20

Cover Story Roberto Bolle

6

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


p

what’s inside

Content

Celebrities

Décor

Travel

10

81

97

Mondo Marcio

Go Baroque

Ischia

Rapping in a Rotted World

Not Broke

The Emerald Island

36

82

100

Sasha Marini

Modenese Gastone

Umberto a Mare

The Actor.

Living La Vita Barocca

Where Dreams Come True

The Model. The Man.

38

85 Snaidero Knows What’s Cooking

94

88

Which Parmigiano

Sasha Marini On Sexual Abuse

60

Lucente

Reggiano?

Lights. Camera. Drama.

96

90

Party like a King

David Fumanelli At Full Throttle

Cuisine

Boxart Washing in Style

ARTISANS

92

102

Floors by Caesar No Trampling Matter

Doriano Marcucci An Artist among Artisans

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

7


Benvenuti! After many years of reporting on emerging designers around the world, I was motivated to launch Uomo Moderno for several reasons, the first being the enduring economic crisis in Italy. Budgets for cultural programs have been cut or dried up, and not a few businesses have closed their doors. As an Italian citizen living abroad, I wanted to make some sort of positive contribution. When I heard about the 2013 Year of Italian Culture in the United States, I was inspired to take action. The timing was perfect, so I funneled my years of journalism, publishing, and marketing experience into this new project. Secondly, I was motivated by a more widespread crisis: having worked for varying lengths of time in nearly thirty countries, I recognize a pervasive lack of style around the world, not only as concerns outer appearance but also life in general. Living in Italian style—or any style, at that—is not just about clothing but rather embraces all areas of our existence: the way we decorate our home, how we prepare and serve our food, the music we play for our guests or the drinks we offer them when they arrive, the restaurants we select when we travel. Clearly, style has more to do with our choices than our salaries. Although not everyone on the “boot” lives in style, Italy has earned a reputation for a unique style, which I define as Italian style and sum up in one word: elegance. So let Uomo Moderno be your guide to living in style as a “modern man.” Francesco Di Maio

8

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

Welcome to


the 1st Edition of Uomo Moderno

As a special way to thank my grandmother who left me the exact funds to layout this first edition, I am taking you on an enchanting journey to our hometown on the island of Ischia, a gem in the Mediterranean Sea. Grazie nonna!

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

9


Mondo Marcio Rapping in a Rotted World

10

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


mondo marcio

Celebrities

Hoodies, skullcaps, bandanas, and shades sum up his look. Strands of razor-sharp rhymes define his style. Meet Mondo Marcio—Italy’s most acclaimed rapper.

When Gianmarco Marcello was born that wintry December of 1986 out in the suburbs of Milan, no one expected the child to rise to stardom sixteen years later when he crushed his opponents at Italy’s major hip hop festival Le Techniche. The following year, Gianmarco transformed himself into his first album, Mondo Marcio (literally ‘Rotten World’), not for any rottenness in himself but rather as a protest against the putrid society from which hip hop had rescued him. With words that slice like a sabre, Mondo Marcio rhythmically denounces rotten society as he appeals to his turbulent past, having been ripped from his parents at a young age and relegated to the hands of

social workers, then to the streets, and—finally—to the outcasts of society. Gianmarco yearned for escape, not only from himself but also from society’s slimy grip. Captivated by the vehemence of Tupac, Eminem, and Jay-Z, Gianmarco began translating their music into his own experience at the age of thirteen. First a refuge, then a release— finally, rap became Gianmarco’s prime means of communication. By the age of twenty, this illustrious rapper had performed over fifty concerts throughout Italy, with audiences toppling 50,000, igniting hip hop music among the masses and providing a voice to those who have no voice. Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

11


What is your take on the current situation in Italy? I THINK WE ARE AT A CRITICAL POINT IN ITALY. We are the second richest country in the world (not everyone knows it) and many are in despair because they cannot make ends meet at the end of the month. We are the home to innovation and art, and yet we still do not know how to take advantage of them properly. It would require a total cleanup, perhaps the only solution to prevent the same characters from changing their mask and returning to govern, which is the real evil of the” boot.” How have you responded through your music? What art can do in all this and, hence, what I can do, is inspire society and influence our culture in an innovative way. Give another point of view, one less comfortable but more useful. Surely [this is the] most necessary right now. How receptive is Italy to rap music? Surely now the “boot” is more open to new sounds, which gives me the possibility to experiment more, the reason for which I started making music from day one.

What’s the Rap?

Are Italian and American hip hop genres comparable? It is very difficult to compare the genres. This is our version of American rap—the music of Blacks, which does not pertain to us; thus, our version will always be Italian, and that’s it, which is interesting because this makes it even more ours! But I think the message of denunciation, when done in a critical spirit against society, has carried over (I speak for myself). On the other hand, many of the musical elements should remain more Italian so as not to confuse the public’s ear. In what ways has hip hop helped you personally? The music that I make, in some ways, is independent of that which I want to express. I have loved this culture from the time I was a kid. This genre has been a means of communication and strong impact, always. It is incredible how you can engage entire piazzas and entire generations through your message. There are young people who write to me that they would not have overcome the problems in their family or life in general without my songs. In some ways it has also been the same case for me, in the sense that I was already writing my first songs at their age! I imagine that, somehow, it had to come to full circle.

Thank you, Gianmarco, and the best of luck to you! GrAzie . M 12

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

Besides hip hop, what has helped you succeed in life? Unconditional faith in myself. And much hard work. Many reveilles at eight, many studio sessions until 4 a.m.


rumjungle

FASHION

Did You

Know?

While rap music had already crashed upon the Italian shores by the early 80s, it was not until the early 90s that hip hop flooded the country as a major movement.

All in all, Mondo Marcio has produced 6 albums and 6 mixtapes: Albums 2004

2010

Mondo Marcio

Animale in gabbia

(‘Rotten World’)

(‘Animal in a Cage’)

2006

2011

Solo un uomo

Musica da serial killer

(‘Only a Man’)

(‘Music by a Serial Killer’)

2007

2012

Generazione X

Cose dell’altro mondo

(‘Generation X’)

(‘Things from Another World’)

Mixtapes 2004

2011

Fuori di qua

Il fumo uccide

(‘Out of Here’)

(‘Smoke Kills’)

2006

2011

Nessuna via d’uscita

Puoi fare di meglio

(‘No Way Out’)

(‘You Can Do Better’)

2008

2012

In cosa credi

4 conigli neri

(‘What Do You Believe In’)

(‘4 Black Rabbits’)

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

13


Rumjungle

In Their Own Words “I, Mattia, am the Style and Production Manager of the men’s line at Rumjungle Italia, Martina is Style and Production Manager of the women’s line Woman, and Elia is the Administrator and Finance Manager/CEO.”

14

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


rumjungle

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

15


“My siblings and I were raised in a suburb of Rome in a by the same passion for the world of fashion. family that had worked in the clothing industry before we were born and, in a certain sense, led us to what is today “In reality, everything started from a trip to the States our path down the fashion industry. that we made in 2007, precisely to Las Vegas. During our stay we popped in the legendary Mandalay Bay Casino, “Our parents had clothing stores, where we started to where there was Rum Jungle, one of the most outrageous “mess around” from an early age—an experience that, in venues of the place. That night we decided to give life to addition to shaping us, made us more and more excited our dream and we named the brand after the place where about the fashion world and, day after day, made us the idea was conceived. realize what was actually our common dream: to create our own company and a brand that was an expression of “Over the years we have evolved a lot, so much so that our style. by the logic of pure production we arrived early today to develop a strong and defined brand image: Our collections “Surely we have many more responsibilities, having to are inspired greatly by metropolitan styles, which combine deal with a company of our own, but essentially we have vintage styles with trendy and sharp urban inspirations. remained the same as always: in the office you work hard, but at least you do so while listening to music, joking and “Surely the constant attention to detail, the fitting, and the laughing…and after a full day’s work we break out an choice of quality fabrics make our customer base reflect aperitif all together :) We are a young team, ranging from what we believe: experimentation and self-expression 24 to 30 years, a close-knit group of professionals bound through fashion. This is why the philosophy of Rumjungle 16

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


rumjungle

Italia is to offer a quality product at a reasonable price, making it possible for young people like us to dress in an original and sophisticated way, without ever spending too much. In Italy a few brands do this…but we do not speak of Italian companies. Instead, we want to present ourselves as the Made-in-Italy brand that offers customers a great product at an accessible price, in Italy and abroad.

FASHION

through dark tones, leather details, and aged studs.

“With Mariano it was love at first sight! Obviously it was his image that struck us at the beginning. But then we realized that his crazy head (in all senses) would marry perfectly with the contemporary mood: In a sense it was the way he carried himself, his being so professional but always witty and funny, his way of never taking himself “Our target market is between 18 and 35 years old, an age too seriously convinced us that he had to be the face of group that widens progressively as the collections grow Rumjungle Italia. We really love him, and we wish him and mature. Whoever wears Rumjungle Italia is confident every possible success! and aware of the world in which he lives, in comparison with the reality that surrounds him. Let’s say that our idea “To conclude: this is a beautiful adventure called Rumjungle is to create the style of today’s youth and, at the same Italia. We started from Italy and with determination time, become an expression of their way of being. and tenacity we have expanded our borders to Europe, America, and Russia. At the moment we are working hard “The 2013 autumn/winter men’s collection is characterized to launch our online shop and, with little anticipation, by by traits of vintage through washed fabrics, dyes, raw the end of the summer we will open our first flagship cuts, and structures of unique items, and at the same time store in Rome. a more aggressive spirit is contrasted with sophistication Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

17


“We set our goal in the beginning, and step by step we have achieved some of our objectives, such as participation at Pitti Immagine Uomo, one of the most important fairs dedicated to the fashion industry. 18

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


rumjungle

FASHION

“The journey has not always been easy, but when the motivation is strong, you find the way to reach your destination... and we are always charged more every day!�

Mattia, Martina & Elia Giansante

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

19


Roberto Bolle The Dancer We Love

Tall. Blue eyed. Incredibly handsome. The stature of a Grecian god. Leaping like a gazelle, he even attracted the attention of Nureyev at age fifteen. Proportionate in physique and precise in technique, this is the Roberto Bolle whom we all know and adore—one of the most outstanding classical danseurs of all time. Roberto Bolle was born on March 26, 1975 in Casale Monferrato of the Piedmont region in Northwest Italy. Enchanted by ballet scenes on television, Roberto began ballet studies at the age of seven, and he was already training in the Ballet School of La Scala Theatre at age eleven. Four years later, Roberto exuded so much talent that the illustrious dancer, Rudolf Nureyev, chose him to interpret Tadzio in the ballet Death in Venice. Currently Roberto is the principal dancer of La Scala Ballet Company in Milan, having performed in the most prestigious theaters of the world, including the American Ballet Theatre, L’Opéra de Paris, the Bolshoi, and the Royal Ballet. In addition to being an artistic ambassador of Italian culture, Roberto was appointed as a Goodwill Ambassador to UNICEF at the age of 24 and has since made significant contributions through fundraising campaigns, charity events, and inspection tours to impoverished and wartorn nations.

20

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


roberto bolle

COVER STORY

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

21


Roberto Bolle

The Other Side

22

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


roberto bolle

COVER STORY

Classical dance is clearly your passion and life, and the world knows you in such a light. But who is Roberto Bolle offstage? I would say a normal guy, wherein normality is defined as having acquired the values and principles which, according to me, are essential to every individual and, in my case, have been transmitted by my parents since childhood. Also, I define normality as a concrete perception of reality. I do not live in a world of princes, fairies, and enchanted castles. That is the world of theater and the make believe of the stage. The real world is made of social problems: people, the politics that struggle to govern our country, so many hardships and sufferings of human beings close to us or farther away. How has this perception of reality affected your life? I am dealing more closely with the injustices and denied rights of children all over the world. I have been an Ambassador of Good Will for UNICEF, for nearly fourteen years now. I have made two field trips to poor and tortured countries like South Sudan and the Central African Republic. I have raised funds for those children with charity shows. Thanks to them and thanks to these life experiences, I have acquired a higher human consciousness. As an Italian classical dancer, what does “living in Italian style” mean to you? In my opinion, it is a great advantage to be born, raised, and live in Italy, especially for an artist. Our country is the homeland of art, beauty, elegance. Our every city, every corner of our country is strewn with monuments, palaces, churches of artistic value and incomparable aesthetic. I have always been nurtured on such beauty—sometimes even unintentionally, of course. But the result is that these qualities are part of my DNA and are now part of my dance and my personal lifestyle, no matter where I go and where I decide that I want to live in the future.

How would you define your personal style of dress? Usually I dress decidedly casual. Sneakers, jeans, t-shirt…. I like to be comfortable and feel at ease. What is certain is the quality of the fabrics, simple clean cuts, and few logos, brand names, or writing. Simplicity is often synonymous with elegance. Do you have any favorite designers? I’m very attached to Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. We have been friends for many years. I appreciate their style and the cut of their clothes, which are among the few that fit me like a glove without the need for alterations. What are your aspirations for the future? For the future, I hope that I can continue to better the role that I have carried with pride for years: to be an Ambassador of Italian art and culture in the world. It does not matter if I stay in the world of dance or not, but for me this is the most important role. For this reason, I am so happy that I can bring my show Roberto Bolle & Friends to the New York City Center on September 17. What personal significance does this show have for you? This show has been chosen to represent my country in the celebrations of the Year of Italian Culture in the United States. It marks a very important point of arrival for me, as well as takes on a special meaning in that, for several years now, I have assumed the role of principal dancer at the American Ballet Theatre and that of étoile at the Teatro alla Scala. Finally. what would you describe as the three fundamental requirements in ballet?

P a s s i o n . D i s c i p l i n e . Ta l e n t .

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

23


Roberto Bolle Similar to Pavarotti and Friends, Roberto Bolle formed “Roberto Bolle and Friends” in 2000 as a touring dance gala that showcases the world’s most resplendent dancers, who share the spotlight with Roberto. Performances of Roberto Bolle and Friends have taken placed in dramatic outdoor venues like the Coliseum in Rome and the Valley of Temples in Sicily, with profits going to the preservation of cultural sites in Italy. Paying tribute to the 2013 Year of Italian Culture in the United States, Roberto Bolle and Friends Gala is hosting an unforgettable evening on September 17 at the New York City Center, with the patronage of Acqua di Parma. Roberto Bolle has selected prominent dancers from the world’s most celebrated ballet companies to perform a gala of solos and pas de deux from classic and modern ballets of the 20th century.

24

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

and

Friends


roberto bolle

Did You

Know?

MAIN NOTE

Patron of the Roberto Bolle and Friends Gala in New York, Acqua di Parma has been an Italian leader in the world of luxury for nearly 100 years, embodying the essence of Italian style. Founded 1916 in the city of Parma, Acqua di Parma created the first Italian eau de cologne to perfume the handkerchiefs of Italian men. Available even today, this classic fragrance “Colonia� has remained unchanged since its conception.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

25


55DSL

It’s Time for a Showdown 26

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


55dsl

FASHION

This season you can channel you inner John Wayne

through FIFTYFIVEDSL into an adverturous land of lawless bandits, cowboy rodeos, aand—not to forget— Spaghetti Westerns. Designed for wandering broncobusters and street-smart heroes, the collection is replete with mute colored denim, washed eco leather, camouflaged patterns, vintageinspired prints, and indigo-dyed fabrics that nod to the hard labor of working on the railroad. So get ready to burst out of the stable in style, because it’s time for a showdown!

55DSL was created in 1994 as an experimental spin-off of the Diesel brand and is now an independent apparel company of Only The Brave Group (Diesel).

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

27


28

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


55dsl

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

29


Diesel Urban Camouflage

30

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


rumjungle

FASHION

This autumn, Diesel spins a refined mix of casual rock with an underground attitude called “Urban Camouflage.” Contrary to the traditional techniques of blending in, this camo creates an “Alluring Disguise,” which will cause any urbanite to stand out of the crowd. Next on the playlist is “Lost in Mutation”— advanced treatments of jackets and tees which depict life in suburban Los Angeles, with palm trees, power lines, and explosive Volcano graphics. The use of velvet revolutionizes the biker jacket; while sneakers are reconstructed with leather, enriched with studs, embroidery, and laser techniques. Diesel—dressy, informal—will rock your soul! Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

31


32

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


diesel

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

33


34

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


rumjungle

Urban Romance in Black & White The obscurity of the night surrounds them. They exchange looks and, then, gaze into one another’s eyes. The lights, the shadows— they bring life to the clothes as if a second skin awakens. Modeled by the Canadian Janice Alyda and Dane Victor Nylander, the collection depicts an underground love story, tender yet equally sensual. It is Replay reinterpreted, shot by the British photographer, David Sims, who pairs black and white into a seductive urban mood. Stark. Severe. Alluringly simple.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

35


Actor The Model The Man The

Sasha Marini Sasha Marini has not only carved a name for himself in the fashion industry but he has also spearheaded a worldwide campaign to protect other models from abuse within the system. But just who is this unique individual when he is not on set? Meet the man, Sasha Marini.

36

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


sasha marini

Celebrities

Sasha, it is a wonderful privilege to introduce you. Tell us a bit about yourself…. I was born in San Benedetto del Tronto, a beautiful city in central Italy on the Adriatic Sea. I was the only child and my childhood was rather serene: I was a vivacious and active child, very attached to my family, who instilled me with a strong sense of education based on dignity, respect for others, and work. Did you always know you wanted to model? To be honest, fashion in general did not interest me when I was a child. I approached modeling to earn extra money when I was studying Law at university. In a short time, I realized that fashion was a real passion, so I and decided to invest my energy in traveling the world to acquire international experience, which would allow me to be competitive in the fashion industry. How would you describe your personal style? My personal style, as well as my beard, is the expression of my personality: strongly masculine, a little rough but with the character of a gentleman. I like to translate fashion into my own personal style, without allowing myself to be influenced by the beauty trends of a season. I’m a man attentive to details, which, in my opinion, continue to make a difference and create a unique style. Where do you see menswear heading in Italy? From my point of view, Italian men’s fashion is returning to the concept of a very natural man of refined style, with clean lines and without excesses—a return to simplicity as an expression of timeless elegance.

Let’s turn to your present life and pursuits? I live in Milan but I am constantly traveling for work. I am working on some fashion films like “Nothing More Than Whispers” and “The Man of the Future”. I like to develop projects that have the goal of portraying a new concept of man as forward-looking, with a posh attitude that is not subject to fashion as a “fashion victim” but interpreting it with a modern innovative style. How do you see the future? I think my future lies in film. I have a natural aptitude for acting, which I have always carried into each shoot for the best interpretation of the character that was requested of me on set. I recently shot a movie in Spain called SINNSIDE, in which I play the deadly sin of lust. It was an extremely interesting experience that allowed me to grow professionally and take on a very high-level production, which required considerable preparation. I will continue to invest myself with determination to achieve my goals. Finally, do you ever relax? In reality, I always have very little free time. When I’m not working, I like to occupy myself with what recharges me with new energy, such as meeting my friends, going to the gym, reading books, and listening to my favorite music like Massive Attack, Portishead, Ryuichi Sakamoto, and Astor Piazzolla. As an Italian man, I like to cook very much: I am able to prepare some excellent spaghetti with cherry tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, and fresh basil, accompanied by a good glass of Barbera. Thank you, Sasha, and good luck to you! To know more about Sasha, go to sashamarini.com. Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

37


Sasha Marini On S e x u a l A b u s e “Shout up you can” is an ethical and social project that aims to increase awareness among young aspiring models on the dangers they may encounter in their work—the awareness that the lowest attitudes should be reported without fear.

career is based on values like professionalism, tenacity, integrity, dedication and, last but not least, respect for the body and mind. Report any abuse and don’t be afraid about professional side effects.

“To all model agencies and clients, it is a guilty choice to “I was asked to be the face of this campaign by the art keep using pictures shot by people who take advantage director who wanted a model that was an expression of of others to satisfy their naughty sexual desires. There is ‘Made in Italy’. In addition, a personal negative experience no excuse for sexual abuse. during a fashion shoot made me particularly sensitive to support the initiative further. So with the utmost “No longer is it time to hide our heads in the sand. A new commitment and strength, I have the honor to put my revolution is possible: it’s time to rise up, to change. Say own face on this noble project and I will do my best to stop. Now, we can.” spread the word.

Join the discussion at “We want to remind all models that a strong modeling shoutupyoucan.blogspot.com. 38

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


AleRo Gum-glasses

Now you can create infinite looks with the interchangeable frames and lens of AleRo. Made 100% of natural gum, the glasses are not only unbreakable but they are recyclable and hypoallergenic as well.

Four styles of frames. Four types of lens. Multiple Colors. More gum. More fun.


Nico DiDonna

The Designer from Puglia

Tell us a little about yourself‌ I was born in Noicattaro, near Bari, in the sunny Puglia region, growing up in a family of seamstresses. All my aunts made clothes; so cloth, needles, and shears were my toys since I was a boy. I always preferred having my clothes made for me, for uniqueness, instead of purchasing them. 40

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


nico didonna

FASHION

What attracted you to London? I found it magnificent for creativity. It was here that I enrolled at the London College of Fashion and did my studies in tailoring. The rest is history in making.

Where did you finally settle?

Can you pinpoint any one influence in your designs?

I live in London.

Every collection has a new inspiration. The source varies, but architecture and the Iconic Era reoccur. So when did you decide to become a designer? I made the decision 15 years ago.

Did you study design in school? As a young boy I studied hotel management, because my dream was to travel the world and my profession would allow me to do so at the age of 16. I headed first to the north of Italy; then Switzerland, France, Germany, and England; the final destination—the USA. Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

41


How would you sum up the Nico Didonna style? Classic with a twist.

Has the current economic crisis had any positive impact? Can you elaborate on the influence from the Iconic Era? While the Jazz Era was more prominent in the 1920’s, it evolved throughout each decade and, even now, jazz has continued to evolve and remains a popular genre today. So while there is a nod to the 20s throughout a collection, it is my interpretation of what jazz is with a hint of the 20’s.

What sets you apart? Versatility.

I hear that you are a “green” designer? Sure, I try to endorse sustainability. All our products are made in England by a selected factory that respects humane conditions and safety.

How is designing in England different from Italy? In Italy it is safe; that is why I live in England. There’s more individual expression. 42

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

Sure, crisis always brings change. It seems that customers are more demanding so designers push the boundaries.


nico rumjungle didonna

FASHION

Finally, Nico, what do you do in your spare time?

Relax! Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

43


Did You

Know?

The seeds of jazz were first planted on the Italian boot in 1904 when a group of American Creole dancers and singers performed in Milan. But it was not until the Thirties that Italian jazz orchestras germinated on the peninsula, shooting up in the Fifties into a full-fledged homegrown movement with an Italianissimo version of Bebop, Fusion, and more.

44

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


nico didonna

FASHION

Nico DiDonna

The Modern Jazz Era

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

45


This fall season,

the collection of Nico Didonna reverberates with the syncopated sounds of rhythmic music as the young designer is captivated by the acoustic freedom of jazz, which instills him with a calm sensation of euphoria. Like an epic lyrist, the designer from Puglia embarks on a musical adventure, journeying through a wondrous world of mysterious shapes that allows for free individual expression, whether voluminous layering or sleek silhouettes. The voyage sets sail with soft leathers and luxurious wools that captivate the senses, which, in turn, are excited through asymmetry, seductive tailoring, and subtle prints. The expedition culminates in the discovery of golden metallic accents and a mesmerizing color palette of cobalt blues, alluring reds, luscious plums, burnt orange, and hues of grey. Structured, innovative, sophisticated—the Modern Jazz Era will sweep you off to a mesmerizing odessy of contemporary style. 46

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


nico didonna

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

47


Meltin’Pot Back to the Future

48

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


meltin’pot

FASHION

Although the term reared its head in 1987, “steampunk” dates back to the science fiction of the Fifties and Sixties that projected steam-powered machinery in a setting of a post-apocalyptic future— retro-futurism at its best. Adhering to few set guidelines, steampunk borrows heavily from Victorian styles and military attire, recycling items like goggles and retro-tech gadgets into accessories.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

49


50

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


meltin’pot

FASHION

This season, the centerpiece of the Meltin’Pot collection is the B-Side—a back-to-the-future feature reminiscent of the 1980’s, along with indigo weaves, leather back pockets, inner chambray pockets, and colors like cocoa black and dirty brown with a pop of yellow.


Meltin’Pot is synonymous with denim—the very DNA and heritage of the brand, which totes yellow as its corporate color, a triangle as its signature, and galvanized gold buttons as hallmarks.

52

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


meltin’pot

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

53


The

Brit Run

Royal Hem 54

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


royal hem

FASHION

Since the 2012 London Olympics, British styles have pole vaulted themselves onto the catwalks of every country—and Italy has been no exception. As for Royal Hem, however, the label had already sprinted down Savile Row, long before the opening of the games, boasting a perfect mix of British sartorial styling, French allure, and Italian quality. Passionate about English culture and tradition, Royal Hem draws inspiration this fall season from the streets of London, literally paying tribute to the cult of the “London Tweed Run.”

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

55


Although the first tweed runs date back to the early Nineties, the first branded ride occurred on January 24, 2009 and soon became an annual event in which bikers don traditional British cycling attire, particularly tweed suits, as they pedal through London. Royal Hem synchronizes classic British tweeds with preppy styling and a country gentleman look—all choreographed into a modern and youthful Royal Hem look. Wintry colors form a relay of mid-tones to sharp petrol blues, London smoky greys, rich burgundies, and onto midnight blues.

56

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


royal hem

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

57


58

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


royal hem

FASHION

Situated in Le Marche, Royal Hem is the core brand of the Copen Group and headed by Pier Paolo Pennesi.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

59


David

Fumanelli At Full Throttle

60

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


david fumanelli

Celebrities

pilot must be physically sound on both the muscular and cardio level, given that you can reach almost 200 bpm during a race. I train with my trainer 6 days a week, sometimes even with double daily sessions. We also apply special exercises to important muscles for drivers, such as the neck. What are your aspirations for the future? I aspire to become a professional driver. Currently I dream

Have you ever wondered what it must be like, strapped into a tiny cockpit and racing at speeds up to 300 km/h (185 mph)? Now, imagine spending most of your teenage years this way, like 21-year-old David Fumanelli. Despite a violent crash in his early career, David shifted into high gear with absolute determination and no plans of breaking any time soon. Podium finisher in multiple races, David moved to the GP3 Series last year, currently driving for Trident Racing. How did you rise so fast at such a young age? I began car racing soon enough, at 15 years old. But compared to most of my colleagues, I arrived late to the world of go karting, where I took my first steps at age 14. In the first few years of single seater racing, I had to gain the experience that I was missing and I think this has been my strength: the continuous training and study of each error and victory made me progress quickly.

of the F1, but if I do not succeed it will not be a tragedy and I will try to become a professional in other high level categories that exist like DTM, WTCC, Endurance, etc. Besides racing, do you have any other pastimes? I am an athlete and sports fan from A to Z. I follow many sports, even if it is the car and bike competitions that I never miss. I really like tennis, which, by the way, helps me train reflexes and concentration. For the rest, I studied and I still play the piano when I have time to relax a bit when I return from trips. Finally, how would you define your style? I would define my style as “young.” I like to dress casual. For example, I match jeans with plaid shirts and rolled up sleeves. On the track, I like to be comfortable, and in hot weather I ascribe to Bermuda shorts and flip flops.

Thank you, David, and all the success to you!

You often speak of “constancy.” Why is this important in racing? It is becoming increasingly difficult to make a difference in these types of mono-brand championships. Therefore, it is necessary to place among the first five of two competitions in order to bring home points and shift rankings at each event. How much physical training is required of you? Even though it may not be apparent, the highest level of preparation is required to drive a single seater car. The Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

61


Angelo

Galasso

Autumn Winter For 62

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


angelo galasso

Ideal for

FASHION

today’s widely travelled

gentleman, the Autumn Winter Forever Collection

by

Angelo

Galasso

offers

impeccable suiting for the office and dashing attire for the evening. Who would know better than Angelo Galasso himself—the talented designer from Puglia whose pioneering spirit has made him a household name around the world! Born in 1959, the young Angelo Galasso did not grow up kicking a soccer ball around the streets like other boys, out of his father’s fear that he would fall in with the wrong crowd. Instead, his dad encouraged him to strike up friendships with the local artisans along the main street. In these workshops, Angelo Galasso nurtured a heartfelt appreciation for the trades, which have been handed down from generation to generation. As Angelo Galasso mastered the complicated techniques, he forged his own unique sartorial style, which is evident in his collections today.

rever Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

63


Angelo Galasso

Business Chic Fine Italian wools, cashmere blends, and butter soft Napa leather transform ordinary work into chic business. A double-breasted peak lapel jacket, leather belted trench coat with herringbone embossing, and leather bombers team up with the English countryside of chunky knitwear and suave flower printed shirts.

64

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


angelo galasso

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

65


Angelo Galasso

Evening Glam Life is not all work and no fun with Angelo Galasso, who allows you to live it up in evening glam, no matter how casual or formal the occasion. Inspired by the slopes of St. Moritz, the casualwear makes for a quick winter getaway to the Swiss Alps.

66

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


angelo galasso

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

67


68

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


angelo galasso

FASHION

Did You

Know?

The Angelo Galasso shirt called Polso Orologio (literally ‘watch cuff’) was inspired by former FIAT president Gianni Agnelli, who, due to an allergy, sported his watch over the cuff of his shirt. The Polso Orologio shirt was placed on exhibition in the esteemed London Design Museum, leading the Financial Times to christen Angelo Galasso as “The Leonardo Da Vinci of Shirts.”

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

69


Tonello

A Salute to Craftsmanship

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

70


rumjungle

FASHION

Synonymous with sartorial outerwear, Tonello was created in 2000 on the revolutionary idea that, if the jacket were reinvented, it would completely transform men’s wardrobes. This season, Tonello revisits favorite fabrics with an eye to reviving the past with Irish tweed on smooth corduroy, wools with a military flair, cashmere, baby alpaca, and kid mohair.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

71


Signature colors proudly salute the red of the Royal Air Force, the green of the Oxford Golfing Society, and the blues of the Cambridge Old Stoics. Located in Crocetta di Montello of Treviso, Veneto, Tonello operates a showroom in Milan. 72

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


rumjungle

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

73


74

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


rumjungle

FASHION

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

75


Lucio Vanotti A “Fabritect” at Heart 76

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


lucio vanotti

FASHION

For some designers, there exists little difference between textural mixture of sturdy materials and fluid fabrics—a structural and fashion design. Take Lucio Vanotti, for constructor’s mélange of assorted rubbers, opulent example, who approaches fashion like a skillful architect leathers, sleek wools, and sheer cottons. that projects buildings’ shape to withstand the raging elements of nature and provide living comfort.

Like the appeal of the Nordic sea and fluffy white clouds across a crisp blue sky, the colors whoosh together into

Similar to a reinforced concrete foundation, Lucio Vanotti’s a wintry palette of greys, blacks, whites, and dark blues. collections rest on an underpinning of rigid, cement-like materials that can resist the fiercest torrential rainstorm.

Born 1975 in Bergamo, Lucio Vanotti studied art at the Marangoni Institute of Milan, launching his eponymous

Rising from squares into perpendicular silhouettes, label in 2002. By building architecture into the fabrics of the 2013 autumn collection is whimsically erected on a fashion, a fabritect has been born. Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

77


78

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


lucio vanotti for peter non

Lucio

FASHION

Vanotti for Peter Non For this autumn season, Peter Non and Lucio Vanotti form a collaboration born out of an affinity for a basic anatomical form. Lucio Vanotti has interpreted the footwear of Peter Non as a natural protection of the foot, almost like a second skin. Inspired by the shape of a sandal, the shoe wraps around the foot like a sock fastened by rubber bands. Fashioned out of waterproof suede, the unisex shoes are enveloped in elastic and come in black, blue, and grey.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

79


Peter Non T h e No n - S h o e

The name Peter Non encapsulates the very Venetian origins of this brand. “It doesn’t sound very Venetian,” you quander. Well, let’s take a deeper look. Peter—from the Greek word petros—means ‘stone’ and stands for durability. As for Non, the name transcends function, because the shoes are not made for this or that—hence, the concept of the non-shoe. Still not convinced? Well, Peter Non footwear is carefully and laboriously handcrafted at the feet of the Dolomites in an eco-friendly way. Sound more Venetian? Peter Non was born by mounting a shoe on cork and natural rubber. The outer materials consist of waterproof suede, which is thereby lined with a breathable microfiber lining. The look is earthy, but almost as if transported from the future.

CORTEX sky walker

AGING SIMULATION GAME desert boot

BLACK MATTER desert boot

ORGANIC TRANSMUTATION aik

WAVE PROPAGATION undercover

POINT OF ORIGIN sky walker

80

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


go baroque

DÉCOR

Go

Baroque

Not Broke

For several seasons, Baroque influences have been strutting down the runways of the major fashion weeks in all the opulence and ornateness of the original era. The recent collections of some labels like Dolce & Gabbana and Versace stand in sharp contrast to minimalist trends as they revive lavish embroideries and intricate floral patterns. Then there are other exclusive designers like Ottavio Nuccio, who has long been creating romantic suits in jacquard and brocade with Baroque inspired embroideries nobly fit for any groom. The Baroque artistic style, however, is not limited to clothing and embraces architecture, sculpture painting, interior décor, dance, music, and literature. Clearly, Baroque is more than a trend—it is a lifestyle. So as you approach the new seasons in search of that right look, remember: go Baroque and not broke.

Ottavio Nuccio

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

81


Modenese Gastone Since 1818, Modenese Gastone has been specializing

peculiar but natural ornamental finish. The inlay consists

in the art of luxurious living, establishing a longstanding of a different wood known as intarsia, which is hand laid. tradition of solid wood and the highest quality of finishing and decorating. Their newest collection is entitled One of the keys to Baroque styling is allowing for sufficient Casanova, which explores the loftiness and charm of space to avoid an overcrowded effect. A word of advice: Classical Baroque.

seek out experts like Gastone Milanese who can assist you in positioning the furniture according to its twists

Born in the territory of Rome, 18th-century Classical and curves, as well as balancing shadows and light. Baroque epitomized luxury and refinement—both of which translated into a lifestyle. The furniture was not Considered the haut couture of furniture, Casanova massive and heavy but rather soft and refined and, thus, proposes a wide selection of voluptuous furniture and the Casanova collection has been designed to imbue lavish accessories for living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms, and studies. home interiors with the same harmony and charm. Casanova is constructed out of a valuable wood called So put on some Baroque music, sit back, and enjoy the radica, which, obtained from the lower tree trunk, is Casanova collection as you begin living la vita barocca. reputed for its heterogeneous structure that creates a

82

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


modenese gastone

DÉCOR

Living la Vita Barocca

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

83


Did You

Know?

The extravagance of some fashionable Baroque men earned them the nickname of “macaronis,” especially those who had returned from the Grand Tour of Italy; hence the song—Yankee Doodle, who referred to his wig as macaroni.

84

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


snaidero

DÉCOR

Snaidero Knows What’s Cooking

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

85


86

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


snaidero

DÉCOR

Have you ever taken on a project to refurbish your home provides an intimate refuge for the family and a showcase but were puzzled about the latest trends? That’s when it’s when entertaining guests. time to ask the experts. Just as important as the functional structure, space, According to Snaidero, homeowners today desire “freely storage, and working surfaces, the lighting must efficiently configured, shareable environments that are bright and illuminate the operating area, as well as generate an open—accessible solutions that are easy to design, emotional ambiance. Through the interplay of uniform customize, purchase, and inhabit.”

flow, diffusion, and reflection of light, Snaidero adds the final touch to every kitchen.

Therefore, Snaidero creates fluid interiors that enhance the flow of movement across multi-purpose spaces, thus So the next time you take on that refurbishing project, ask heightening the functionality of a kitchen, which then Snaidero what’s cooking.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

87


Lucente

Lights. Camera. Drama.

Need a little drama in life? Create it with Lucente’s Hand Made collection, the company’s first experimentation with fiberglass, a lightweight and eco-friendly material that reflects its name— handmade. Elegant for indoor and outdoor uses, Hand Made is available in suspension and floor models. Hand painted finishes come in both matt and glossy. The black version boasts gold leaf on the inside, while the white version hosts silver leaf. Located in the province of Treviso, Veneto, Lucente has been dramatizing lighting since 1980.

88

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


lucente

DÉCOR

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

89


Boxart Washing in Style

90

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


boxart

DÉCOR

“What does fashion have to do with bathroom furniture?” you ask. According to Boxart, everything. True, many people fail to see any connection between the two and—honestly—they probably prefer to keep it that way. Let’s face it: for some, picking out the right tie in the morning is a daunting enough task, let alone choosing the latest bathroom trend. Agreeably, a practical issue also lies at the heart of the matter: it is definitely less expensive to update your ties than your bathroom. But the bottom line is, no matter your means, you can live in style if you understand the simple relationship between fashion and décor. For companies like Boxart, the two are inseparable.

The latest collection was projected according to the color trends forecasted by the Pantone Color Institute, which declared emerald as the color of the year. Boxart agrees: “In 2013, emerald green seems destined to invade the runways and cosmetic palettes; in décor, this jewel of a tone creates a sensation of luxury, wellness, and optimism.” As a result, Boxart has developed an enchanting collection of washbasins, mirrors, glasses, and soap dispensers in emerald green. The collection represents renewal, prosperity, and growth and exudes a sense of freshness and novelty that individuals are seeking today in society and within themselves.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

91


Floors by Caesar No Trampling Matter

92

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


ceramiche caesar

DÉCOR

If you treat a floor merely as a floor, then it will always remain an object to walk on. But if you envision your floors as a rich culture, then you are well on your way to living in style. Since 1984, Ceramiche Caesar has been creating a stylish floor culture of porcelain tile stoneware, offering an impressive product range of 3,800 items, which are exported to over 90 countries. Ceramiche Caesar harmonizes interior landscapes with personal preferences through the size, thickness, finish of tiles, and a vast assortment of colors, which can satisfy any mood.

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

93


Which

Parmigiano Reggiano?

Parmigiano Reggiano Millesimato

Ask the Experts According to Luigi Guffanti, not only does the taste of Parmigiano Reggiano become more complex with age but the fragrance changes at every stage. While the average maturation process requires about 24 months, lengthier periods up to 36 months allow the cheese to achieve its full potential.

94

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


parmigiano reggiano

CUISINE

Parmigiano Reggiano Di Montagna

Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse

At about 15 months, Parmigiano Reggiano assumes a light straw color with few crystals. The smell assumes a milky scent, almost like butter or yogurt. Some experts detect notes of boiled vegetables and grass. The taste is somewhat acidic. At 24 months, Parmigiano Reggiano resembles straw in color with white crystals, omitting a fragrance of melted butter. Some experts detect notes of fresh citrus fruit, nuts, and even meat stock. The taste becomes slightly peppery. At 36 months or more, the cheese appears as golden straw, consisting mostly of crystals. The cheese emits an aroma of nuts and spices, such as nutmeg. The taste is now piquant. Luigi Guffanti, operating since 1876, offers some unique suggestions: Qualità di Montagna: (‘Mountain Quality’) produced with

Did You Know? Parmigiano Reggiano, otherwise known as Parmesan cheese, originated in the area of Parma and Reggio Emilia—hence the name Parmigiano Reggiano. Under Italian and European laws, only the cheese produced in these areas qualifies as legitimate Parmigiano Reggiano, whereas all others are deemed counterfeits.

the milk of cows that have grazed at quotas of 800 meters. Delle Vacche Rosse: (‘Red Cows’) a limited edition produced with the milk of the reddish Reggiano cows. Millesimato: the gentleman of all cheeses, aged for 60

Besides the place of origin, genuine Parmigiano Reggiano possesses real benefits over the substitutes: longer aging processes, larger cheese wheels, and up to two-thirds less salt.

months!

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

95


Party

like a

King

The last monarch of Italy passed away in 1983, but for the piece of cheese. past 900 years another king has been ruling in the kitchens of almost every household on the peninsula—Parmigiano As Parmigiano Reggiano ages with time, its complexity Reggiano.

in structure increases while its taste and smell intensify. Therefore, remember this simple rule when choosing a wine:

Owing to its ease of use and appreciation by almost all palates, the more mature the cheese, the simpler structure and higher Parmigiano Reggiano perfectly lends itself to any sort of acidic value of the wine. party or festive occasion. Served as a side or the main event, either way, Parmigiano Reggiano can add the right touch of If you love whites, the bubbliness of Prosecco makes a perfect regality—and with no fuss.

choice for a toast, followed by a crisp light- to medium-bodied white wine. If you are a lover of reds, pair the cheese with

If you are hosting a small get-together, place a large triangular a lush fruity wine. But don’t forget to throw a few lagers or slice of Parmigiano Reggiano on a wooden cutting board. For Pilsners into the cooler for your beer buddies. larger festivities, obtain an appropriate portion of the cheese wheel, leaving it intact. The guests will have fun carving away After the festivities, some Parmigiano Reggiano may be left at the block with a cheese knife.

over. For smaller pieces and “chips,” toss them into zip lock bags; larger pieces can be wrapped tightly in any sort

Depending on your preferences, you can surround the cheese of food grade plastic wrap. Then, store the cheese in a cool with fresh fruit, such as cut up Kaiser pears, or dried fruits place (between 40-46 F / 4-8 C), such as at the bottom of a like dates and figs. Additional accompaniments include nuts, refrigerator—but don’t freeze it unless it has been grated. cured meats, chutneys, and a loaf of crusty rustic bread. For the adventurous, try drizzling some balsamic vinegar on a Now you are ready to throw a party fit for a King! 96

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


ischia

TRAVEL

Ischia

The Emerald Island

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

97


When heading south, road trekkers typically set their itineraries for Amalfi, Sorrento, and Pompeii; but fewer have set their sails for the island of Ischia, a short boat ride from Naples, long lurking behind the shadows of Capri.

98

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


ischia

TRAVEL

Dating back to prehistoric times, this isle rejoices in the succession of settlers, inhabitants, rulers, and invaders of byname, the Emerald Island—Isola Verde in Italian. With the island. First the Phoenicians, then the Greeks, followed its crater submerged beneath the sky-blue ripples of the by the Romans—this was merely the antipasto. Afterwards Mediterranean Sea, what exists today is merely a rim—the Byzantine, Normandy, Swabia, Anjou, and Aragon— remnants of an extinct volcano, which has been dormant intermittently sprinkled with marauding pirates—all served only since the 14th century, constituting the largest island in the main course. Finally, after the French and Spanish— the Bay of Naples.

washed down with some Bourbon—the island was ready for a dessert of liberation.

Because of its strategic position, the green island has sustained a troublesome history. Recurrently colonized, Now, Ischia is predominantly a tourist destination, attracting punished, dominated, and sacked by a succession of ruthless modern-day travelers who invade the island for about half invaders, the island has been infused with unique features the year. One of the most prominent attractions are le terme, that greatly distinguish it from areas on the mainland north or thermal gardens, which boast therapeutic volcanic mud of Naples whose language, culture, and social customs have baths, thermal pools, and lots of hot spa activities. Additional only recently converged with those of Ischia. To that effect, highlights that cannot be missed include the Aragonese the islanders are a peculiar breed.

Castle near the port, the chapel of the Soccorso in Forio, and

The present-day language, culture, and cuisine all reflect the the fishing village of Sant’Angelo. Uomo Moderno Fall 2013

99


Umberto a Mare

Where Dreams Come True

100 Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


umberto a mare

TRAVEL

Tucked cozily away under the chapel Soccorso and How do the island’s traditions influence your menu? overlooking the jagged rocks of the Mediterranean below, Tradition for us has always been a “beacon that inspires,” Umberto a Mare sprouted in 1936 from the terrain that as well as the starting point for all our culinary creations. was purchased in 1900 for seven or eight hundred lira— We are convinced that tradition is not a fixed or immobile no small sacrifice for the time.

concept but rather an inexhaustible source of dynamic inspiration in constant motion. Do we deviate? Well,

Sitting on terraced slopes, which descended to the sea, virtually not at all in our opinion. Oftentimes, however, a small abandoned structure gave birth to the dream: a some people interpret tradition merely as a series of restaurant—Umberto by the Sea! With no few sacrifices, classic preparations of the Neapolitan cuisine and that’s it. Umberto Castellaccio and Gaetanina Mattera, grandparents While seafood salad, marinated anchovies, and spaghetti of the current owners, created a small paradise on earth.

with mussels are not to be despised, cuisine is so much more—a universe of infinite combinations of aromas and

Today, the restaurant-hotel is operated by Marco and flavors to mix and put together. Umberto Regine who continue to narrate the story: How would you define Ischia’s cuisine? How typical is Umberto a Mare?

Ischia is a very unique island in which, as always, two

Our restaurant has always based everything on the cultures coexist: the maritime population of the coast and absolute quality of fresh products, particularly the fish, the rural population of the foothills and mountains. The which has always been supplied by select local fishermen encounter and resulting mix of these two cuisines have from Ischia and Procida. As a direct result of such choices, given rise to a series of preparations that are typical of the dishes that we define as “typical” in our restaurant Ischia wherein ingredients from both land and sea are generally consist of assorted raw and marinated seafood, combined. Nevertheless, the Ischia version of rabbit is the which is prepared differently each day. Moreover, among most distinguishing recipe of our island. It is an ancient deserts, we cannot forget the famous Eggplant Patty with “Sunday” recipe served as a classic preparation at every Chantilly cream and bitter chocolate.

Sunday lunch when the family gets together at the table.

Greetings from Ischia!

Uomo Moderno Fall 2013 101


Doriano M

An Artist amo

In late spring I ventured to Montegranaro, a name that

beginning, he even inspired the perfume bottles of some

may mean little to you. Possibly you are more familiar with major brands. the brand names that are manufactured in the area, such as Docksteps, Bikkembergs, Pirelli, Samsonite footwear, We found ourselves in the historic center of Montegranaro. “It was a brave choice,” he told me, “I am the last craftsman and Harley Davidson (the exclusive license for Italy). in the area.” Moreover, there exists a sea of small factories that either make production parts or sell their own lines in the local What struck me most about Doriano was his ability to outlets. The area belongs to the “golden triangle of shoes,” engage and communicate, as well as create, like a tornado which is situated between the provinces of Fermo and spinning from amusing anecdotes to timely technical explanations. I thought to myself, “See, this is what is Macerata in Le Marche. lacking in many of our craftsmen. It is not enough to The individual that I went to visit, however, is not a shoe know how to make beautiful products in the darkness of a craftsman with his own line of excellent products. Rather, workshop. It is also necessary to know how to explain and he is an artist by the name of Doriano Marcucci. Now try sell to those who, alone, would not be able to appreciate NOT to imagine a classic, grumpy old man with skilled their value.” hands. Instead I was greeted by a handsome, animated and expansive man, whose laboratory is adorned with objects I was not the first person to notice this great talent: just that represent his passions—from music to travel—all of recently Doriano was invited to Rome where he attended a which instill the right energy while working.

special concert. Botteghiamo and the Italian music legend, Renato Zero, created an atypical event, which raises the

When I say that Doriano is an artist, it is because he awareness of Italian excellence through concerts. For the constructs footwear from scratch: from cutting the leather occasion, Doriano created a pair of shoes for the truly to creating the colors—so uniquely fashioned that, in the exceptional artist. 102 Uomo Moderno Fall 2013


doriano marcucci

ARTISANS

Marcucci

mong Artisans

In addition to the numerous national networks that have could no longer work. boosted the visibility of this creator of footwear, much attention has come from abroad, such as from the actor Niki “I went to his home. He explained to me from an armchair Wu, who, with National Geographic, spent the day as a true what I should do. I labored at night and I brought him my cobbler in the laboratory, filming an interesting documentary work the following morning.” With great emotion, Doriano for the Chinese public. In the United States, you can also find exclaimed: “For me he was a mentor and a father figure. Doriano’s creations at Eredi Pisanò in New York.

Despite his illness, Vasí was very lively and every time I proposed some new idea, he was always ready to accept

But who taught him the trade?

it and find a way to implement it. “

(Here I must digress for a moment, because I was very As I prepared to leave, I asked Doriano point blank, “Do touched to revisit my family’s experience in that my people understand the labor that is behind your shoes?” grandfather was a blacksmith, who passed the trade on “No,” he replied sharply, “in Italy, no.” “Artisans and manual to my father.)

knowhow,” he sighed, “are respected more abroad.”

As for Doriano, he learned his art from Basilio Testella, As I went away from the quaint and cozy shop, I thought nicknamed Vasí, who in his career has created shoes for about individuals like Adrian Greenburg of MGM and Edith British royalty and figures like Bill Clinton and Vladimir Head of Paramount. They were artists who served other Putin.

artists—Hollywood’s crime of the crop. But they did not take cues from the streets or the last urban tribe to make

“Among all the artisans who now work for big name their clients look like ordinary people. brands,” explained Doriano, “at least one in every company learned from Vasì. He taught everyone: his shop These designers understood the soul of their customers was always open to those who wanted to learn. But I am and, inventing a tailor-made world just for them, they the only student to whom he passed his knowledge solely created unique and unattainable icons of style. Creators through oral means. “

like Doriano deserve the same: carte blanche and a muse to give life to timeless creations.

The reason was, when Doriano turned to Basilio, the elderly gentleman was already suffering from cancer and By Dafne Perticarini Uomo Moderno Fall 2013 103


Stay in Touch

Uomo-Moderno.com


Uomo Moderno Fall 2013  

The 1st & Only Men's Fashion and Lifestyle Magazine from Italy. In this issue: Otain advice from Italy's top designers on all sorts of suit...

Read more
Read more
Similar to
Popular now
Just for you