Secrets of the cosmetic industry revealed…
THE AROMANTIC GUIDE
to making your own natural skin, hair and body care products
4th Edition eBook
The Aromantic Guide to making your own Natural Skin, Hair and Body Care products
The information published here is not intended as a substitute for personal medical advice. Before making any decision regarding your personal health, please consult a GP, Medical Herbalist, qualified Aromatherapist, other qualified health practitioner or a recommended reference book before using Herbs, Essential Oils or Absolutes. Pregnant women, the elderly, those with skin sensitivities or problems, or those with difficult medical conditions should be particularly careful when taking herbs internally, or when applying the Herbs, Essential Oils, Absolutes and other raw materials externally. Itâ€™s a good idea to let your GP, Medical Herbalist, Qualified Aromatherapist or Health Practitioner know that you are considering the use of Herbs or Essential Oils as some may cross-react with conventional drugs you are, or may be considering, taking. Report any side-effects to your personal Health Care Practitioner.
This information is provided for our customers and is obtained from a variety of sources, including the research, knowledge and experience of Kolbjorn Borseth. While we have obviously done our utmost to provide correct information, there may be errors.
Published by Aromantic Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form including digital reproduction without the prior written consent of the Publisher. 17 Tytler Street, Forres, Moray, Scotland, IV36 1EL Tel: +44 (0)1309 696900 Fax: +44 (0)1309 696911 E-mail: email@example.com Website: www.aromantic.co.uk ÂŠ Copyright 2011, Aromantic ISBN No: 978-0-9554323-3-0
USA: These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
Welcome Welcome to the updated and expanded Fourth Edition of Aromantic Guide to making your own Skin, Hair and Body Care products. I’m very proud to share with you the result of many years of work and dedication. Originally from Norway, I have 29 years of experience in complementary health and had the pleasure of opening my first natural cosmetics manufacturing company in Sweden 26 years ago. After working in Sweden, often in partnership with leading complementary health experts, I decided that I wanted to reveal the secrets of the cosmetics industry to both professional therapists and lay people. This Guide is one of the ways I share this knowledge. Apart from our series of Guides, Aromantic offers this information in a number of other ways: Educational Courses, Recipe Brochures, Newsletters and our website. After learning everything you need to know about making these popular, natural products, you can then purchase all of the raw materials and equipment you require from Aromantic. We have strong ethical and environmentally friendly policies and endeavour to source the finest quality natural raw materials. We are constantly improving the quality of what we offer and we hope you enjoy this edition of the Guide and the opportunities it offers to you to make your own Natural Skin, Hair and Oral Hygiene Care products. While I recommend that you attend an Aromantic Education Course, this Guide is packed with information, recipes and stepby-step methods so that you can make your own natural, tailor-made products, whether for your friends, family or therapy clients.
Aromantic’s mission is: s TO REVEAL TO YOU THE SECRETS OF HOW natural cosmetics & skin care products are made professionally. s TO EMPOWER YOU TO MAKE YOUR OWN products, specific to your own tastes and skin care needs, from home - affordably, ethically and naturally. s TO OFFER YOU THE OPPORTUNITY TO START your own successful business, making and selling natural cosmetics, bath, hair or skin care products. s TO HELP AROMATHERAPISTS SALON OWNERS beauticians and other therapists to tailormake natural cosmetics specific to their clients’ needs. We have a wide range of different raw materials that you can use to make products for certain skin and hair conditions and types, such as essential oils, vegetable oils, vitamins, minerals, anti-aging and other active ingredients suited to your clients. This is bespoke cosmetology. s TO PROVIDE OUR CUSTOMERS WITH THE most up-to-date natural raw materials and information as soon as it is possible. s TO CONSTANTLY SEARCH OUT DEMAND and consequently supply more organic raw materials such as essential oils, vegetables oils and herbs. This will encourage more growers to produce organic produce and to be more ecologically aware. s THROUGH OUR WORK TO HELP AS MANY people as possible with their different skin conditions and skin problems. s TO SUPPORT ENCOURAGE AND GIVE ADVICE to developers of organic raw materials and actives. Aromantic will always naturally be at the forefront of natural/ organic skin care progress.
Acknowledgements I would like to thank Finn Andersen of Crearome in Sweden, who started me out on this journey, when I attended one of his early courses in Stockholm in the mid-1980s. To Lilly Johansson, with whom I worked for 10 years in Scandinavia, where she was a health icon. Over 30, 000 patients attended her state-funded alternative hospital, Follingegaarden, over a period of 30 years, from the mid-1960s. To my wife Helena, and my family, who understand that for me teaching and sharing this knowledge is not a hobby, or even work…but a mission. To all my loyal and hard-working colleagues at Aromantic, who have always supported me, with special thanks to my ‘right-hand’ here at Aromantic, Monika Dachs. To Mike Harmon, for doing such a good job of teaching courses and doing consultancies on Aromantic’s behalf. To Susan Kemp, who is getting good at reading my mind! Thank you for your excellent editing, rewriting and proofreading work on this Guide and my other publications. And last but not least, to my customers. Many of you are my friends; all of you have inspired me to develop this knowledge further. Enjoy the adventure!
Kolbjørn Borseth, Founder of Aromantic
Aromanticâ€™s Natural, Organic, Ethical and Fairly traded Purchasing Policy
Aromantic is certified by Organic Farmers & Growers 2009
Sensitivity & Allergy Tests on Raw Materials
Essential Oils, Absolutes and Manipulated Oils
Aromanticâ€™s Purchasing & Sales Policy for Essential Oils
Vegetable Oils, Fats and Waxes
About Double Boilers/Bain-maries
An Introduction to making your own Creams and Cosmetics
Making your own Creams
Vegetable Oils and Fats for Health & Skin Care products
Natural Moisturisers & Preservatives
Making Cleansers, Exfoliates, Peelers & Toners
Exfoliating, Peeling and Scrubbing Agents
Making Ointments & Lip Balms
Making Lotions & Sun Creams
Making Skin & Massage Oils
Making 2-in-1 Shampoo & Conditioners, Liquid Soaps and Shower Gels
Base Recipes for 2-in-1 Shampoo & Conditioners, Liquid Soaps and Shower Gels
Making Face Masks
Clay Face Masks
Cream Face Masks
Gel Face Masks
Making Anti-Aging and Skin Rejuvenation Products
Making Toothpastes & Mouth Washes
Essential Oils & Absolutes: How to Use Them
Making Natural Perfumes based on using only Essential Oils
Adding Fragrances to Creams & other Skin Care products
Recipes for Essential Oils & Absolutes in the Home
Raw Materials and Colours Conversion Table
Essential Oils Conversion Table
Metric-US Conversion Tables
Aromantic’s Natural, Organic, Ethical and Fairly traded Purchasing Policy
overall ethos and according to the following criteria:
Our policy on purchasing raw materials is based on a holistic perspective, which considers the products we source and stock in relation to nature and to people. AROMANTIC constantly monitors the market to search, demand and consequently supply more organic, natural raw, ethically sourced materials such as essential oils, vegetables oils, fats and waxes, herbs, and other raw materials. We give priority to raw materials that have been fairly traded or ethically sourced from traditional communities, modern community projects or co-operatives. This demand encourages and rewards growers to use organic and co-operative/community principles in their production, to be more ecologically aware and to ask for a fair deal when selling their produce. This in turn affects the cosmetics market and so consumers’ awareness and demand for such products. It is a positive cycle of change that respects nature and people and improves the ability of future generations to sustain themselves.
s 4O THE EXTENT THAT THEY CAN BE OBTAINED and are of interest to our customers, we are committed to selling as many natural and organic raw materials as possible, which are cultivated without artificial fertilisers, chemicals and pesticides. All of our organic products are certified by the Organic Farmers & Growers (OF&G) UK certifying body so that you can be confident that the organic raw materials you purchase from Aromantic are indeed organic. For more information about our Organic Certification and what it means for you, see page 2 or our website.
Most importantly, we wish, through the information contained in our website and in our publications to describe exactly what our products contain and how they should be used, so that you yourself will be able to make informed choices about raw materials based on our standards, other people’s and your own. We don’t, however, simply supply raw materials to you; our aim is to empower you with knowledge, information and training. Raw materials of the best quality are then selected in line with the company’s
s /UR AIM IS TO SELL RAW MATERIALS WHICH are as environmentally friendly and as natural as possible.
s 7E ONLY SELL RAW MATERIALS WHICH ARE synthetically produced where the natural equivalent would be derived from animals (e.g. vitamin A); which cannot (as it is now) be naturally produced (e.g. preservatives); or where the natural raw material is very expensive and the cost cannot be justified by the extent of its use (e.g. allantoin). s 4O THE EXTENT THAT THEY CAN BE OBTAINED and are of interest to our customers, it is our aim to sell as many raw materials that are fairly traded or are bought from community projects and co-operatives as possible, which gives producers a better deal and enables them to improve their position and have more control over their lives. See our website for examples of our products that are fairly traded or are bought from traditional or modern community projects and co-operatives. s 7E WILL NOT SELL RAW MATERIALS MADE from animal sources, e.g. slaughterhouse by-products such as gelatine, collagen, and animal-based emulsifiers and
soap ingredients. These are by far the most commonly used materials in the cosmetic industry and we want no part of that. The only animal by-product we stock is beeswax and no bees were harmed in the harvesting of this natural product. s 7E DO NOT SUPPORT THE TESTING OF RAW MATERIALS for cosmetics on animals. Where we are unable to source raw materials which are not tested on animals we use raw materials that are at least guaranteed not tested on animals after 1996, thereby operating a fixed cut-off date system. s !ROMANTIC DO NOT SELL 6ASELINE OR PARAFlN based/mineral oils. s !ROMANTIC DONT SELL PERFUMES THAT ARE synthetically produced. We sell only pure essential oils, absolutes, natural organic aromas and natural perfume concentrates (which are based on whole essential oils and absolutes, fractionated essential oils and botanical CO2 extracts). s 7E MONITOR ALL OF OUR RAW MATERIALS THROUGH the use of batch numbers, which enable us to trace them internally within the business from the point of delivery, through storage, documentation, product information and analysis and externally through to our customers and retailers. This is important to ensure the correct information is given and in the following up of any customer queries. s )T SHOULD BE POSSIBLE TO CLASSIFY AND IDENTIFY all raw materials according to their botanical (Latin) name, plant family, part(s) used, country of origin, method of cultivation, method of extraction and any other processes.
Aromantic is certified by Organic Farmers & Growers 2009 In May 2009, Organic Farmers & Growers Ltd informed us at Aromantic that we have been successful in our bid for organic certification. We are inspected every year and a new certificate is issued.
Who are Organic Farmers & Growers Ltd?
Organic Farmers & Growers Ltd (OF&G) is one of a number of control bodies accredited by Defra and is approved to inspect organic production and processing in the UK. OF&G has its national headquarters in Shrewsbury, Shropshire, and operates across Great Britain and Northern Ireland, as well as the Isle of Man and the Channel Islands. As a leader in organic certification for well over a decade, Organic Farmers & Growers has turned its expertise in organic inspection and licensing to this sector and has developed its Cosmetic and Bodycare Standard. This standard is based on the EU Organic Regulation (EC2092/91) and the Nordic Ecolabelling Standards. What Aromantic’s organic status means to you
You can be confident that the organic raw materials you purchase from Aromantic are indeed organic. It is unfortunate that many raw materials used in the cosmetic and beauty industry are marketed as organic when in fact they are not. More and more consumers are demanding beauty products which are free from harmful chemicals and that have not been genetically modified and Aromantic fully supports this. Aromantic is committed to purchasing organic raw materials wherever possible. Under EU rules you can call your health and beauty products organic if the product contains organic ingredients. This does not mean that your products are “certified” as organic because your company has to go through the certification process because this process
is also about your production methods, packing, distribution, etc and not just about the ingredients. If your company decides to go through the process of certification, then the main advantage of Aromantic being certified organic is that you can be absolutely sure that you are getting truly organic products and if you go for certification yourself, then you will have Aromantic’s organic certificate to prove that the ingredients you are using are really organic. Another advantage to you is that you will be now using certified organic ingredients and can show Aromantic’s certificate to prove it. Aromantic’s Certificate of Compliance is available for downloading from our website.
Sensitivity & Allergy Tests on Raw Materials It is impossible to create Skin Care products which everyone will tolerate, particularly in view of the fact that people’s sensitivity have increased. Through testing Raw Materials and Ready-Made Products on the area of skin in the crook of the elbow – where the skin is thinner and more sensitive – you’ll be able to determine whether or not you are likely to have an allergic response to what you have applied. This, of course, can be done with any product you purchase and it is particularly important to do this with anything you intend to use on your face.
How to test yourself for an Allergy Choose an area in the crook of your elbow of a few square centimetres and apply the product or raw material you
wish to test. Leave for 12-24 hours and then look for any signs of allergic reaction. The test may even be repeated the next day. Signs of an allergic reaction include red, warm skin, perhaps also itchy and/or with a rash. When testing raw materials it is advisable to test quantities in proportion to how they will occur in the finished product. So, for example, to test a Preservative, it should be diluted in water in a ratio of 0.5ml1ml to 100ml water.
Essential Oils, Absolutes and Manipulated Oils Essential Oils Essential Oils are volatile, aromatic substances, which have a long tradition of use in natural medicine, perfume, incense, skin and health care. Using the Essential Oils of plants for therapeutic purposes is known as Aromatherapy and has been practised for thousands of years. Essential Oils are mostly produced in three ways:
1) Water/steam distillation from seeds, roots, wood, leaves and flowers. This is the most common method. 2) Pressing of the peel of citrus fruits. Citrus Oils are the only ones produced in this way. These can also be produced through distillation. 3) Supercritical CO2 Extraction is becoming popular now for producing Essential Oils. The advantage of CO2 Essential Oils is really in their purity as this extraction method provides a high level of the active constituents of an Oil, and as so has a much cleaner and purer aroma and improved therapeutic benefits.
Extraction through the use of Solvents is a method also used for certain Oils. We do not call these Essential Oils as they do not contain true aromatic substances such as Absolutes and Resinoids but contain substances which are not volatile.
Absolutes The delicate nature of many flowers means that steam distillation, the usual method of making Essential Oils, cannot be used to extract the Oil because the intense heat destroys the flowers, causing them to become compacted into a solid mass that the steam cannot penetrate. Therefore, a special process using solvents has been developed to capture the more delicate fragrance without causing any damage to the fragrance. This process does not use any heat or water so none of the water-soluble aromatic compounds are lost the way they are in steam distillation. When an Oil is extracted this way, it is referred to as an Absolute rather than an Essential Oil.
Diluted Essential Oils and Absolutes Some of the Essential Oils and Absolutes that Aromantic stock are diluted in either alcohol or Vegetable Oil. This is because some Absolutes or Essential Oils, such as Rose or Jasmine, are very concentrated and have an overpowering aroma. Just one drop in a pot of Cream can be too much. They are also very expensive, so diluting them makes these high quality Absolutes more affordable for you too.
Manipulated Oils The trade in Essential Oils over the past 100 to 200 years has modified its product to suit its customers – the perfume, cosmetics, pharmaceutical, confectionery
and food industries, tailoring it to what they require. Examples of this are: Lavender Oil, which smells the same year after year; Peppermint Oil with the same menthol content year after year; and perfumes, which require standardised ingredients. Low prices and standardised products have become more important than quality – but not to Aromantic. This means that many of the Essential Oils on the market today are Manipulated Oils, produced by mixing Oils from different plant sources or by mixing Oils with synthetically produced aromatic chemicals. These Oils may be good for the purpose for which they were made – to provide a pleasant fragrance or aroma. You should be aware that many of these oils are sold under the guise of being genuine Essential Oils derived from a particular plant and therefore with particular therapeutic properties. This is simply not true and they will not have any of the desired effects of a genuine Essential Oil. In fact, if sold and used in this way, they may even do more damage than good. Rest assured that Aromantic takes the quality of its Essential Oils as an utmost priority.
Aromantic’s Purchasing & Sales Policy for Essential Oils Aromantic’s policy on purchasing essential oils is the same as our policy on purchasing all of our raw materials, which is based on a holistic perspective, which considers the products we source and stock in relation to nature and to people. We believe that we can make a difference in the world by sourcing products and raw materials that nourish
and sustain both the producers and our customers and to contribute to the demand for products that conserve our precious resources and are as environmentally friendly as possible. In order to be part of a positive cycle of change that respects nature and people and improves the ability of future generations to sustain themselves, we give priority to raw materials that have been fairly traded or ethically sourced. Most of our organic essential oils are sourced from:
s TRADITIONAL COMMUNITIES