Foodies of New England Fall 2011

Page 32

“Another thing”, Gary laments, “He always spoke Italian to me, even though I wasn’t always sure what he was saying.”

York City, maybe it has to do with New Haven Station being so close by, or maybe it’s just a fluke, but don’t discount the fact that Frank Pepe’s serves up some of the very finest, simplest, most original and authentic Neapolitan Pizza to be found in this or any other world.

Gary was born in New Haven and lived in Hamden, Connecticut, just outside of New Haven. He went to a technical school early on because his mother wanted him to be an electronics technician. Gary had other plans, however. While in junior high school, he balanced his studies with a regular work schedule at Frank Pepe’s and got to know the family business. When he graduated from technical school, he went full-time into the business and learned how to make the pizzas the old-school way. Gary’s mother and aunt were Frank’s daughters, and they took over the business in 1969 with help from Gary’s uncle. In 1988, Gary and cousin Francis Rosselli helped their mothers, who were still running the place. Then, in 1998, Gary took over as manager. Currently, Frank Pepe’s is a family affair, with Gary and his 3 sisters and 3 cousins all pitching in to make Frank proud.

The Original Recipe When Frank Pepe started, his plain pizza was a thing of beauty and simplicity, boasting only sauce, garlic, oregano, and pecorino cheese. It had all the bells and whistles that would make any pizza lover happy – if you lived on the Mediterranean Sea. For variety, Frank offered Pizza con Alice, or pizza with sauce and anchovies. Little by little, Frank began to add mozzarella and other toppings as the years came and went.

La Pizza di Oggi (The Pizza Today) Pepe’s remains traditional; there aren’t as many pizzas choices on the menu as other places. In fact, other than salad, the only thing they serve at Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana is, well… Pizza. For toppings, there are 15 from which to choose, and you can pretty much make your own custom pie, but if you’re smart, you’ll try the signature

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Foodies of New England

So say the celebrities who duck in for a slice of Neapolitan Nirvana. Pepe’s has been graced by the greats of stage, screen and American politics for decades. Early in his presidency, Bill Clinton would stop in, along with Ronald Reagan (but never at the same time!) during the former actor’s bid for the Oval Office. pie for which Frank Pepe’s has become famous – the White Clam Pizza. If you like veggies, try the remarkable White Spinach, Mushroom & Gorgonzola Pie (also topped with Mozzarella & grated Parmigiano. Naturally, there’s the back-to-basics, Fresh Tomato Pie – but if you want one, you’d better get to New Haven before the snow flies, because it’s only available during the summer. Worth the trip, this simple beauty has fresh, native tomatoes, mozzarella, fresh garlic and basil. Simple, delicious, and unmistakably Italian. In fact, it’s so Italian, Pepe’s might want to rename it, The Italianissimo! Don’t get the idea that Frank Pepe’s is a tiny, neighborhood pizza joint – it’s grown. In fact, the original New Haven location alone has about 60 employees with 10 outstanding pizza-makers, all using authentic brick ovens fired with coal – that’s right, coal. It’s a lot of work, but it’s all worth it. Just ask the regulars that come in two or three times a week to satisfy their Frank’s Fix.

The Stars Really Do Come Out at Night And then there are those that come from far and wide to find refuge in a slice of greatness. Maybe it’s Frank Pepe’s proximity to New

Super-Celebs like Robert DeNiro, Vince Vaughn, and Kevin James find refuge and respect at Frank Pepe’s. “They know they’re not going to be pestered when they’re here. They sit in the dining room with our other guests, but they’re left to enjoy themselves and have some relaxation,” Gary points out. “Our regular guests know enough to give them their peace and quiet. When they get up to leave, it’s not uncommon for another guest to ask for a photo or an autograph, and the celebrities are always very happy to oblige.” Other brushes with greatness you may encounter at Frank Pepe’s (besides the White Spinach, Mushroom & Gorgonzola Pie) might include Henry Winkler, Bill Murray, and Ernest Borgnine (who lived in Hamden right around the corner from Gary). Gary makes sure the celebs have their space and privacy. When they come in, I usually stop by their table and tell them, ‘If anybody bothers you, come and see me’, but it almost never comes to that. We have very respectful guests. “The celebrities usually come in with their own entourage,” Gary notes. “They love the pizza and the atmosphere, and they like the way they’re treated while they’re here. “One time, years ago,” Gary begins, “Bill Murray was in line, trying to be incognito,


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