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Photo Credit: Really Redding

Redding, California's famous trails and waters may satisfy your longing for adventure, but they also ensure you'll work up an appetite. That's where our hundreds of restaurants come in! Dining and drinking options, serving flavors from our foothills to the far corners of the globe, await the casual traveler or the festival junkie. However you like to dive in to a dish, Redding's How culinary scene will satisfy you... And get back out on the trails! Upcoming Events: Taste of Redding All of Redding’s best dining, in one exhibition! Early June, Redding Beer Week A week of tasting events celebrating the West’s best craft beers. August 19-26, Market Street Faire Redding’s weekly summer festival. A Mix of musical entertainment, vendors, kids’ activities, farmers market, and food and drink. Jun - Sep, Vi For more events, go to





ADVENTURE: Island Hideaways


CHRONICLES: Chef Antonin Mousseau-Rivard


Inn on 5th’s Avenue5


31 4 Food & Travel | Summer 2016




This is where your story begins. Here, the appetizers include breathtaking scenery and wine tasting. Make plans to dine by the river or on a rooftop, then treat yourself to a live Broadway show in our historic Met theatre.


Make the most of every minute at or call 800.458.7373.





Prince Edward Island, Canada 51 Traverse City, Michigan 54 Lake Guntersville & Marshall County, Alabama 56 Torrance, California




Greater Morgantown, West Virginia 83 Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 85 Jackson, Mississippi


60 63 66 68 70

72 75

Redding, California Greenville, South Carolina Sevierville, Tennessee Abingdon, Virginia Charlottesville & Albemarle County, Virginia McCall, Idaho Lake Placid, New York

6 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

63 Cover Image By Shutterstock/ Subbotina Anna



Big adventure. Small town charm. Always the perfect temperature.

Plan your McCall, Idaho summer vacation at


Is proudly published by: Zalasin Publishing Corporation Email: PUBLISHER Sam Wattam EDITOR IN CHIEF Tovah Wattam EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Kyeden Faith VICE PRESIDENT ADVERTISING Chris Klein

Advertising Inquires should be directed to: Zalasin Publishing Corporation Advertising Sales Corporate Office Tel: (813) 812.4883 • Email: •

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Chris Chagaris Nina Siegal Caleb Garrett Barbara Steinberg Mike Norton Tracey Teo Jaella Richard Kathy Witt


ASSOCIATE EDITORS E. Jan Culler Kieran Morgan Avery R. Scott



TO SUBSCRIBE VISIT: FOOD & TRAVEL® is a trademark of Zalasin Publishing Corporation, registered in the US FOOD & TRAVEL (USPS# 17082) is published quarterly, 4 times per year at Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter; by Zalasin Publishing Corporation, 3802 Ehrlich Rd. Suite 310 Tampa, FL 33624. Periodicals Postage Paid at Tampa, FL and additional mailing offices. Subscription charge is $10.00 per year/USA, $20 for Canada and $40 for international. For subscription inquires, email us at POSTMASTER, Send address changes to Food & Travel, PO BOX 90277, Long Beach, CA 90809-0277. VOL#3 ISSUE #2

8 Food & Travel | Summer 2016



discovers new paths on old mountains. Bearfence Rock Scramble in Shenandoah National Park

Only two hours south of Washington DC, and nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains, Charlottesville and Albemarle County VA, provide the perfect options for a weekend excursion. Join us as we celebrate the National Park Service turning 100 years old! As we look forward to the next 100 years, we invite you to explore Shenandoah National Park’s 500 miles of hiking and biking trails, as well as scenic kayak and fishing waters. Just down the road, explore the 30+ wineries, breweries, cideries, and distilleries along the Monticello Wine Trail. You’ll quickly discover why one day in the Charlottesville area just isn’t enough. Plan your next trip and request a visitor guide at

Where tradition is always new.


EDITOR’S LETTER “Never get so busy making a living that you forget to make a life.”


alance, we strive for balance. A plaque hanging by the front door of our home denotes the significance of balance. “Never get so busy making a living that you forget to make a life.” I consciously consider this sentiment when friends and colleagues remark, “You must take the most wonderful trips.” Statements of this nature always strike me as odd, as if presuming that I live a charmed life were a safe assumption. I tend to passively reply, “I am invited to wonderful places, but work keeps me so busy that I don’t travel nearly as much as I’d like to.” I used to travel extensively for business, however, and I vividly recall how a few days away left me refreshed — ready to begin again. A true road warrior, I enjoyed all the aspects of the journey. Delayed flights weren’t a worst nightmare, rather an opportunity to chat with people I’d never met. To be honest, I sometimes long for my jet-setting days and all the excitement that came with them. My kids had been dealing with travel bugs of their own for some time, they had long since abandoned run-of-the-mill guilt trips for high drama break downs. Just as they had me nearly convinced that they were indeed the barefoot children of a shoemaker, I threw caution to the wind. With the deadline clock no longer counting down weeks, rather days now, I booked a vacation. Then, before my good sense got the 10 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

best of me, we threw together a few suitcases and headed away. Away from deadline, away from school, away from everyday sameness. I was entranced upon arrival, reminded of the important things. We spent three delightful days doing absolutely nothing — and everything — all at the same time. Each well-spent moment registered as one that we’d never get back. As I watched my family, I realized that my good sense had gotten the best of me. Would this issue of the magazine be flawless? Maybe not, but I’ve come to understand that a “flawless magazine” is a sort of contradiction in terms anyway. I know this much is true — that during the final week of May 2016, I was compelled to do something other than painstakingly pour over words, photographs, and pages. I’m quite certain no will even remember, except for my family who will most assuredly remember that together we found balance... Be well,

Tovah Wattam Editor in Chief

Those times when you feel so good you don’t want to go home? They happen a lot around here.

Some evenings are practically magical, with the food, the vibe, the conversation, each equally extraordinary. Take a trip to Jackson, Mississippi and reserve a table in the “City with Soul”. For more information on all of Jackson's over 300 restaurants, hit

City with taste. City with flavor. City with Soul.

PRODUCT MANIFEST Travel gear as thoughtfully executed as your itinerary.

SITTINGBRIDGE Think you can’t achieve comfort in your tiny, cramped airline seat? Pack BRIDGE, the personal body comfort system created by SITTINGBRIDGE. A molded polycarbonate shell covered in cushy neoprene ($65), it lets you stretch, rest — even sleep — in the confines of your seat. Tuck BRIDGE behind your lower back to release tension or beneath your thighs to raise up your knees. Place it on the open seatback tray for a sleeping or reading surface. (You can nod off without fear of getting too cozy with your seatmate.) Use it as a rocking footrest that will flex your muscles and help with circulation. The BRIDGE expands from less than one inch to over four inches in height and collapses to stow neatly in your bag.

12 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

ORGO Lite from Everything ORGO


A place for everything and everything in its place. Here is organization to the nth degree: The ORGO Lite from Everything ORGO ($39.99) has no less than 18 adjustable compartments to hold all your toiletries. Best of all, the organizer’s ingenious foldout panel that takes it from 15 inches to three feet of storage, it’s like traveling with your own vanity. The technology is straightforward: Unzip, flip, and slide to expand ORGO Lite over almost any sink to create needed counter space and access all your lotions, potions, meds, makeup and more. The ORGO Lite comes in colors black on black, green with envy, and paradise pink, and slips tidily into small suitcases.







Rolla Tag Responsible travelers know to ID their luggage, but with many ID tags your personal information is out there for all to see as you navigate the terminal or wait at the gate. Lulabop’s new Rolla Tag ($9.95) is elegance in a sleek cylindrical tube that lets you ID all your bags while keeping your personal information private. Give the nylon canvas pull-out a tug and out comes the ID tag. Record your information and then let it snap back into place, inside the tube where your personal information stays hidden away from prying eyes. Made of anodized aluminum, Rolla Tag is sleek in pearl, bronze, red, blue, and green. What a fresh twist on luggage tags — and one easily spotted in a sea of bags.



Brave Beauti Just launched in May is Sakroots’ newest print: Brave Beauti has a Native American theme using tribal elements and ikat designs (tiedyed and woven yarn). Featuring a horse symbolizing bravery and strength, the print represents what everyone has inside — a kind heart and brave spirit. Brave Beauti also represents the company’s first-ever watercolor print, which is laid out in a diamond ikat motif of horses, feathers, arrows, and geometric shapes and patterns in an earthy red color palette with pops of ochre, sky blue, green, and orchid. Additionally, the words, “Be Brave,” may be found throughout. The pattern expands Sakroot’s Artist Circle line of travel and tote bags, cross-body bags and satchels, convertible bags, and backpacks. (Flap Backpack shown, $79)

flipillow Here is an innovative comfort item ideal for longhaul flights: flipillow ($29.99) is a patent-pending two-pillow design created by “inventor at heart” Joe Vogel. Made in the U.S.A. by Vogel’s company, Jovo, flipillow lets you lie face down (envision the massage table at your favorite spa) with your head and chest supported. You can also use the components together behind your head or separately to support the lower back and neck at the same time. A repositional strap holds the horseshoe-shaped pillow against the contour pillow in place, and it also can be used as a carrying strap over your shoulder or to connect to your luggage. It comes with a washable cover.

Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 13




“Stuff your eyes with wonder, live as if you’d drop dead in ten seconds. See the world. It’s more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories.”

Located in St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Young Island is a National Wildlife Reserve and a luxury experience for its guests. LEFT: Young Island’s swim-up Coconut Bar is located just a few yards off the beach.

YOUNG ISLAND, ST. VINCENT If the plane, taxi, and then ferry ride don’t convince you that you’ve reached paradise lost then the gardenesque lushness of this privately owned 13-acre tropical island will. The most northerly of the Grenadine chain of islands, Young Island is tucked about 200 yards off St. Vincent’s southern shores and is all about luxury, lavish indulgence, and verdant scenery. Linger over five-course feasts spiced with West Indian flavors in a thatchedroof dining hut for two. Sip a Coconut Delight right out of a fresh coconut at the swim-up bar. Refresh with a Bajan cane sugar body scrub at Spa Kalina. Visit the uninhabited archipelago, Tobago Cays, by boat and snorkel the coral reefs. At Young Island, cottages step up the hillsides, each a hideaway unto itself (particularly cottages 10, 28, 29 and 30) with open-air garden showers, seductive plunge pools, and glorious sea views — but the most secluded of all is the Duvernette Suite. Sitting at the very top of Young Island, it offers breathtaking views of the sea, Fort Duvernette, St. Vincent, and Bequia. You won’t want to be found.

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— Ray Bradbury

FOOD & TRAVEL BUCKET LIST MACKINAC ISLAND, MICHIGAN No automobiles are allowed on Mackinac Island, located in Lake Huron between Michigan’s Upper and Lower Peninsulas. There are, however, plenty of horses-drawn carriages and bicycles, and an unrivaled atmosphere of romance. The entire island looks like a movie set, and that’s just what it was in 1979 when the Jane Seymour/ Christopher Reeve classic, “Somewhere in Time” — considered one of the most romantic movies of all time — was filmed on an island considered to be one of the most romantic destinations in the United States. Two island resorts, the venerable Grand Hotel, home of traditional afternoon tea and the world’s largest porch (lined with at least 100 rockers), and the lakeside Mission Point Resort, offer an homage to the movie. For the former, it is the annual “Somewhere in Time” weekend package, in October; for the latter, the Mackinac Island Observation Tower has a gorgeous exhibit about the filming of the movie, the attendant Hollywood Sound Stage, and the island’s only movie theatre, which also appeared in the movie and offers a full summer lineup of films and events. All this, plus shops, art galleries, water sports, nightlife, and spectacular views.

Acres of private beach, non-motorized water sports, shimmering waters, an extensive coastline, gorgeous pool – Sunset at the Palms Resort is a sanctuary for travelers looking to de-stress. Praised by Architectural Digest for design, the unique treehouse accommodations are folded into a lush garden of tropical plants and flowers with meandering walkways.


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NEGRIL, JAMAICA At Sunset at the Palms Resort, an adults-only sanctuary in Negril, Jamaica, you’ll willingly slip into sensory overload: Squish your toes into sun-warmed, white sand beaches; watch colorburst sunsets melt into the sea; sip a martini made with Jamaica’s own Appleton rum at the piano bar; feel muscle tension evaporate at the Ginger Lily Spa under a therapist’s healing ministrations — all while drinking in the tropical splendor of one of the Caribbean’s top all-inclusive resorts. Here, elegant treehouse-style accommodations tucked amidst the bougainvillea cosset guests with Asian-inspired furnishings, king-size beds, open-air bathrooms, and daybeds set on the balcony for whiling away a drowsy afternoon, listening to the hum of nature. The most secluded are the onebedroom treetop villas. The most unforgettable experience? The Chef’s Showcase (reservations required), a four-course gastronomical adventure presided over by the chef and featuring farm-to-table delicacies with a Mediterranean twist accompanied by luscious wines and island cocktails.

Being set on 18 acres of lakefront property means all of the accommodations at Mission Point Resort are essentially hidden from the main street.

Airy luxurious treehouse accommodations are just steps from a beachside paradise.

Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 15

FOOD & TRAVEL BUCKET LIST Visitors have lots of options to create their own special island time at Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Resort. LEFT: The “pikai,” or sprinkling, symbolizes love everlasting in the resort’s vow renewal ceremony. LEFT: Enjoy stunning ocean views from an amazing location on Waikiki Beach.

HONOLULU, HAWAII Authentic Hawaii happens at the Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Resort in Honolulu, with guests immersing themselves in the music, food, and culture of traditional Polynesia. Top island entertainers perform at Kani Ka Pila Grille every night. Daily activities might include making a kukui nut bracelet, taking a ukulele or hula lesson, learning the art of bamboo stamping or the history of Polynesian tattoo design, taking part in a vow renewal ceremony following the ancient custom, Ho’ao Pa’a. Ho’i hou ke aloha — “Let us fall in love again.” Moving and memorable, this sunrise ceremony is available exclusively to resort guests and takes place on the beach with the ocean as witness. New to the resort is the Voyager 47 Club Lounge, available to guests staying in oceanfront suites and guestrooms. Perks include premium refreshments, elevated amenities, a “Sunrise Invitation for Exploration” with locally-inspired tasting menu, a “Signature Sunset Celebration” with cocktails and pupus (snacks) and specially curated localized experiences. Splurge and go for the deluxe one-bedroom oceanfront suite; it has two balconies for catching gorgeous views of Diamond Head and brilliant Hawaiian sunsets.

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Royalton’s exclusive All-In Luxury™ concept blends the Yucatan Peninsula’s unique culture with a luxury product.

Enjoy delicately prepared dishes offering a taste of the Mediterranean at OPA, where you can be served under the bottle trellis or a private alcove-for-two.

Book a luxury suite with its own swim-out pool overlooking the ocean.


CANCUN, MEXICO With the Caribbean Sea before you and mangrove forests behind, it can feel deliciously remote at Mexico’s Royalton Riviera Cancun. Removing you even further from the hassles and hubbub of life is Hideaway, the adults-only resort within Royalton Riviera Cancun. And yet another coddling step away from it all are exclusive Diamond Club services that include a personal butler, your mini-bar stocked (and restocked daily), a beach area reserved just for you, a private lounge with breakfast, hors d’oeuvres, desserts, and more. It all starts at check-in with the selection of the aroma therapy scent you’d like spritzed in your room when housekeeping visits. Sigh. Choose a luxury suite with massive Jacuzzi, rain shower, and swim-out pool. Taste a different cuisine each night of your stay (your butler will make reservations and escort you): Japanese, Mexican, Mediterranean, American steakhouse, Italian, Tex-Mex, seafood and more. With nine restaurants, assorted bars, and three adults-only swimming pools, plus shops, spa, night club and casino at the resort, there really is no reason to leave — ever.


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t Le Mousso, a new 40-seat restaurant in the heart of the Centre-Sud neighborhood in French-speaking Montreal, Canada, I patiently sit at a communal table sipping water as servers breeze past me, never bothering to take my order. Nobody is ever going to take my order, and I don’t expect anyone to. That’s because by decree of Chef-Owner Antonin Mousseau-Rivard, everybody eats the same thing in his restaurant, a seven-course prix fixe menu created from Quebec-sourced ingredients that can be enjoyed with or without a wine pairing. Stealing surreptitious glances at your neighbor’s plate is the only way to get a preview of what’s to come. “We want people to come here and open their minds. We don’t believe in people who don’t like things,” says Mousseau-Rivard. “It’s not like I’m serving monkey brains or whatever. There’s nothing really crazy.” Noir, orange, mauve, vert, blanc, rouge, brun, and jaune. These are the only clues the so-called menu provides about what I will be eating this evening. Each color represents a course, and I must say, I’m a little nervous about the first one, noir (black). I can’t think of a single food I’ve ever eaten that was black, except dark chocolate, and it seems doubtful we are going to start with dessert. Looks like Chef has added an extra course tonight. I’m counting eight instead of the usual seven. I’ve opted for the wine pairing, and tonight’s libations are as much a mystery as the food. At last, the first course arrives. Bewildered, I stare at a couple of lumps of coal served with a side of dirty dryer lint on a stick. Bon Appétit! I twirl the dryer lint, inspect it from all angles, and, finally, work up the courage to put this fanciful concoction in my mouth. Hmmmm. My mind works furiously to identify what’s on my palate. The outside is sweet, but the inside is savory. Yum. It melts in my mouth like butter, but what is it? Hey, I’ve got it. Foie gras! Chef calls it a foie gras bonbon wrapped in burnt maple cotton candy. Delicious. I move on to the lump of coal. It’s actually a financier (pronounced fee-nahn-see-AY), a classic almondflavored French pastry with a crispy, eggshell-like exterior. It serves as a pedestal for a puff of charcoalinfused cream and a sprinkle of sturgeon caviar — three delightful textures and flavors in one tiny bite. I feel as though I’m running blind through the forest, not knowing if I will encounter an inviting field of fragrant wild flowers or hurl myself over a cliff. Social media has been buzzing about Mousseau-Rivard’s culinary masterpieces since he opened Le Mousso last fall. The chef takes a bit of devilish pleasure in forcing diners into a state of culinary cognitive dissonance,

“We want people to come here and open their minds. We don’t believe in people who don’t like things. It’s not like I’m serving monkey brains or whatever. There’s nothing really crazy.”

teaching them that sometimes food that looks completely unappetizing tastes divine. “I love to see the reaction when they see the plate,” admits MousseauRivard. “One time I served black soup. Everyone’s face was worth a million dollars.” If you want to try the black course that I enjoyed, well, you can’t. The menu changes regularly. Forget going online. It’s never posted, unless a customer puts it on Instagram. Don’t ask for substitutions. It’s not going to happen. So how does this young, self-taught chef get away with being so inflexible, mysterious, and downright obstinate? It’s simple. In a short time, he’s built trust among his loyal, mostly millennial crowd. They recognize his innovation and talent, and most importantly, they have a blast analyzing what they are eating. It occurs to me this restaurant would be ideal for a first date. Even if the couple discovers they have nothing in common, there will be no awkward silences because each course is a conversationstarter. Le Mousso isn’t simply about being edgy and avant-garde. In the end, no matter how funky and fun Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 19


the presentation, the food has to taste good — and it is very, very good. It’s important to note that Mousseau-Rivard doesn’t run his restaurant the way he does because he’s pompous or egotistical. Quite the contrary. He’s a down-to-earth guy that wants diners to have the best experience possible, but that often means challenging their firmly held beliefs about food. He thinks people often say they have an aversion to a certain food when what they really don’t like is not the food itself, but the preparation they are accustomed to. For example, when he was young, Mousseau-Rivard didn’t like Brussels sprouts. As an adult, he figured out what turned him off was the way his nanny cooked the vegetable to a green, mushy blob. When cooked properly, the restaurateur will happily eat every Brussels sprout on his plate. Mousseau-Rivard describes his cooking style as minimalist, a surprise since everything seems so lavish and complex. “A lot of things are really complicated to make, but there aren’t a lot of ingredients,” he explains. “I used to be the kind of chef that was putting too much stuff together. I was looking for my style, but I discovered the best 20 Food & Travel | Summer 2016


When I peeked in the open kitchen, I half expected to encounter a mad scientist, but I simply found the chef arranging plates of edible colors, an artist at work.

approach is less it more.” As my meal progressed, I was relieved that not every course was as visually jarring as the first. Perfectly-seared lamb medallions were recognizable as such. A side of fermented pepper paste provided more flavor than heat, and I liked it so much, I wished I could take home a jar. I washed it down with a humble Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a wine from Italy’s Adriatic Coast that exceeded my expectations, thanks to a burst of tart fruit. The orange course, seared scallops with dehydrated kumquats and carrot foam, was beautifully presented, and being a seafood lover, I dug in with gusto. It takes no imagination to serve shellfish with lemon, but kumquats? The fruit’s citrusy-sour flavor added a punch to the dish without overwhelming the delicate scallops. I did a double take when served Arctic char the color of an aromatic Burgundy, but it was elegantly plated, and the fish had a pleasantly mild, clean flavor. Beet juice is what gave the dish its mauve color. When I peeked in the open kitchen, I half expected to encounter a mad scientist, but I simply found the chef arranging plates of edible colors, an artist at work. He comes by it naturally. His grandfather, JeanPaul Mousseau, was an actual artist, and a couple of his paintings are virtually the only adornment in an otherwise sparsely decorated space. You could say Mousseau-Rivard has taken a step toward the democratization of fine dining, which is why Le Mousso is so affordable. He believes everyone, regardless of socioeconomic status, should occasionally be allowed the pleasure of an exquisite meal. That attitude comes from his grandfather. “He always taught that art was not meant only for rich people, which is why he worked on a lot of public art,” Mousseau-Rivard says. “I have the same approach with food. We have lots of young people that come here, and it’s affordable for them to get a seven-course meal.” As I finished my last sip of wine, I reflected on how I wasn’t the least bit sorry that I had relinquished my palate to Mousseau-Rivard for the evening. I turn my health over to a doctor and my car over to a mechanic. They are the professionals, after all. Why not have the same approach when it comes to fine dining? 

A feast for eyes and the senses rate



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America’s Top Five Foodie Towns - Bon Appétit

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Executive Chef David Nelson draws on his natural talents and considerable breadth of knowledge to create an inspiring culinary experience at Fifth Avenue’s largest restaurant, Avenue5, and the neighboring Inn on Fifth and Club Level Suites.


djacent to the iconic Inn on Fifth in downtown Naples, Florida, Avenue5 features a high energy ambiance and has quickly became known as a place to “see and been seen” on Fifth Avenue. The glamorous $3 million, 7,000-square-foot restaurant with seating for 240 guests was part of a recent $2 million renovation project encompassing the Inn on 5th’s spa and meeting space as well as its “vintage glam” restaurant, Avenue5. In October 2015, Chef David Nelson took over as Executive Chef at Avenue5, bringing with him more than 20 years of experience in the kitchens of notable luxury hotels and restaurants. Chef David emphasizes sound cooking fundamentals and strives for technical perfection, giving simple, recognizable flavors an innovative twist to create a new menu that is as dazzling as the restaurant itself. “I’ve developed a new menu with fun, interesting dishes that match the style and ambience of what I believe is Fifth Avenue’s most beautiful restaurant,” said Nelson. Directing the culinary team at Avenue5 and the Inn on Fifth and Club Level Suites, David is a motivational leader, getting the team excited about preparing outstanding food every day and making great things happen for other people. “I believe our success comes collectively, not individually, so I try to instill a sense of purpose that will create a strong team that lasts and works well together.” Executive Chef David Nelson has designed a menu with fun, interesting food that matches the stylish ambience and décor of the beautiful restaurant. “I hope to get the town really excited about the food we’re serving at Avenue5.” 

Executive Chef David Nelson’s Bouillabaisse Broth INGREDIENTS: 1 cup fennel bulb, sliced, core removed 1 cupcelery, sliced on bias 1/2 cup leeks, half-moon slices 1 cup onions, half-moon sliced 1 oz. canola oil 3 Tablespoon garlic, minced 2 oz. brown anchovies, chopped 1 cup Pernod 1 cup white wine 2 cups clam juice 2 cups San Marzano (or other high quality canned) tomatoes, crushed 1 cup fish stock 1/2 cup tomato paste 2 bay leaves 2 Tablespoon tarragon, fresh chopped 2 Tablespoon basil, chopped 1 Tablespoon thyme, fresh 1 dash Tabasco 1 tsp white pepper 2 Tablespoon saffron threads 1 Tablespoon salt 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 10 clams 10 mussels 1/4 lb. shrimp 1/4 lb. rock shrimp DIRECTIONS:

1. Sweat anchovies, fennel, leeks, celery, onions, and garlic in oil until soft and fragrant. 2. Deglaze with Pernod and white wine. Reduce au sec (until almost dry) 3. Add clam juice, tomatoes, bay leaves, and fish stock. Simmer for 90 minutes. 4. Add remaining ingredients, adjust seasoning to taste, cool, label, and store for up to five days. TO SERVE:

1. Heat pan, add oil, and sauté clams until they start to open, add any fish or shrimp and mussels. 2. Sauté until mussels start to open add bouillabaisse broth and simmer until fish and shrimp are cooked through. If desired add calamari and cook for 1 — 2 minutes. 3. Serve with toasted crostini.

Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 23

Shelbyville, KY

Albuquerque, NM

South Bend, WA

WORLD CAPITALS IN THE U.S. What does it take to achieve world capital status? For these U.S. destinations, being overrun by horses, awash in bourbon, buried in oysters, or soaked in moonshine doesn’t hurt; nor does having restaurants, lodgings, museums, and other attractions that give visitors plenty of ways to immerse themselves in the experience. BY KATHY WITT

Lexington, KY

Islamorada, FL

York County, PA

Franklin County, VA

Santa Fe, NM

Bardstown, KY

24 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

One of the oldest buildings in Albuquerque, San Felipe de Neri Church, on the north side of Old Town Plaza, was built in 1793.

AMERICAN SADDLEBRED CAPITAL OF THE WORLD With more than 90 historic Saddlebred farms, breeding, and training facilities, Shelbyville, KY, has the props to be called the American Saddlebred Capital of the World — but this central Kentucky town earned its moniker by state legislative proclamation. “If you want to get into the country music business you go to Nashville,” says Shelbyville Saddlebred breeder Hoppy Bennett. “If you want to get into American Saddlebred, you come to Shelby County. It’s where the best horses were — and still are.” Visit during the Shelbyville Horse Show, Aug. 3-6, and help celebrate the “peacock of the horse world.” Go behind-thescenes at an American Saddlebred horse farm to see the breed up-close, stroll through the barn, and talk to a trainer. Shop for hand-crafted equine leather goods, riding gloves, cashmere scarves, personalized apparel, and equestrian-themed artisanmade metalworks at Shelby Horse Supply, Metzger’s Country Store, and An Equestrian’s Touch.



Shelbyville is the American Saddlebred Capital of the World.

26 Food & Travel | Summer 2016



Fair weather conditions, a unique wind pattern called the “Albuquerque box,” which allows pilots to land near the same place where they took off, and more hot air balloon pilots per capita than anywhere else earns Albuquerque the title of Hot Air Balloon Capital of the World. It is a visually stunning and special part of Albuquerque culture that is celebrated annually during the world-renowned Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. Taking place Oct. 1-9 in 2016, it includes live music, chainsaw carving demos, several balloon glows, After Glow Fireworks and more. While on a normal day in Albuquerque you can see quite a few balloons dotting the sky, during Fiesta the numbers are in the hundreds. A half dozen hot air balloon companies are based in Albuquerque and offer visitors a balloon flight any time of year. You can learn the intricacies of hot air and gas balloon flights, ballooning and barn-storming, the role of balloons in war and more at the Anderson-Abruzzo Albuquerque International See hundreds of hot air balloons take to the sky during Albuquerque’s annual Balloon Museum. nine-day International Balloon Fiesta in October.


Kentucky’s only designer outlet mall, The Outlet Shoppes of the Bluegrass, is located in Simpsonville in Shelby County, KY.



The curtain rises on another day


HOW WILL YOU SPEND IT? Catch a performance at

BARTER THEATRE. Stop at Wolf Hills Brewing for

DELICIOUS CRAFT BEER. Pedal along the scenic


888.489.4144 ·





Only in Islamorada is it possible to catch a sailfish offshore and pursue bonefish, permit, tarpon, snook and redfish in just inches of water in the backcountry, all in the same day.

BARDSTOWN, KY BOURBON CAPITAL OF THE WORLD When seven bourbon distilleries, a museum dedicated to whiskey history and artifacts, the world’s first bourbon-themed bed and breakfast inn, and restaurants offering hundreds of different types of bourbon on their collective menus call you home, it’s no surprise you’d become known as the Bourbon Capital of the World. Bardstown sits at the epicenter of all things bourbon in the very heart of Kentucky Bourbon Country. An official trailhead of the famed Kentucky Bourbon Trail®, it welcomes folks to the world’s legendary bourbon distilleries: Heaven Hill, Maker’s Mark, Jim Beam, Four Roses, Barton 1792, Willett and, this fall, the Bardstown Bourbon Company. Tours and tastings are offered at each, with each experience markedly unique. See confiscated moonshine stills among the treasures at the Oscar Getz Museum of Whiskey History. Shop for upscale bourbonrelated gifts at Kentucky Bourbon Marketplace. Dine at local faves Kreso’s and Rickhouse, known for their expansive bourbon menus; and toast the world from your luxury guestroom at Bourbon Manor, where you’ll be greeted the next morning with a country gourmet breakfast — most likely featuring one of the innkeeper’s famous bourbon-laced specialties. 28 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

ISLAMORADA, FL SPORTFISHING CAPITAL OF THE WORLD Islamorada’s unique location, lying between Florida Bay (the “backcountry”) and the Atlantic Ocean (the “front side”), provides an unrivaled diversity of fishing opportunities and an astonishing array of fish: barracuda, bonefish, blue marlin, redfish, snapper and more. No wonder Islamorada is recognized as the Sportfishing Capital of the World. More than 45 fishing tournaments take place throughout the Florida Keys island chain each year, with 20-plus of them held in Islamorada alone. According to the International Game Fish Association in Dania Beach, FL, the Keys are home to more saltwater sport-fishing records than any other destination in the world. Each winter in Islamorada, distinguished fishing authority and television host George Poveromo leads the Salt Water Sportsman National Seminar Series, the nation’s longest running and most popular educational course on recreational marine fishing tactics and techniques. The program details exactly how and where to catch coveted game fish inshore, near shore, and offshore. Big-time fishing aficionados, such as legendary football coach Jimmy Johnson, baseball Hall-of-Famer Ted Williams and Presidents George Bush (both 41 and 43), have been known to frequent Islamorada for the unparalleled fishing.

YORK COUNTY, PA FACTORY TOUR CAPITAL OF THE WORLD Watch potatoes roll off tractor trailer trucks and head into the frying room, and then enjoy warm chips right from the fryers. Mmm. On the Martin’s A tour in progress at Potato Chips factory tour, you’ll Martin’s Potato Chip factory also see how one of America’s most beloved salty snacks are seasoned and packaged, then sent off to the warehouse for distribution. It is one of 16 factory tours in the Factory Tour Capital of the World, a place where you can watch firsthand as dozens of famous products are made: pretzels, ice cream, chocolate, soap, coffee, furniture, violins and more. At York Time Institute, see the Old World craftsmanship that goes into the making of watches and clocks. Smell the freshness of the soaps, shampoo bars, butters, scrubs, and fizzies whipped up in the kitchen at the Sunrise Soap Company. Visit a violin maker’s studios at Bluett Bros. Violins. And see how the iconic hog is put together at Harley-Davidson Motor Company’s largest manufacturing facility.


There are 5 million barrels of bourbon aging at any given time at Kentucky distilleries – many of them in Bardstown, the Bourbon Capital of the World.





Lexington has produced the most legendary horses in the world, including Man o’ War, considered one of the greatest Thoroughbred racehorses of all time.

Southbend, Washington – Oyster Capital of the World




Located in the southwest corner of Washington State and bordered by pristine Willapa Bay is South Bend, the Oyster Capital of the World. It is said that one in three oysters consumed in the world come out of Willapa Bay. Despite its size (about 30 times smaller than Chesapeake Bay), it yields more oysters than any other estuary in the U.S. Order up the delicacy at the Chester Tavern, a landmark local dive with fried oysters fresh from Willapa Bay. On Long Beach Peninsula, the Depot Restaurant in Seaview serves oysters in a classic escargot preparation using extra small oysters in garlic and butter. Hangtown Fry, a San Francisco original of bacon, eggs, and oysters, is dished up at 42nd Street Café, the peninsula’s “original roadside café.” Visitors can gain a sense of the importance of the bivalve to the area on a walking tour of Historic Oysterville, former county seat and now on the National Register of Historic Districts. Long before the town was established in 1854, Chinook Indians gathered oysters that were piled high in the mudflats here. Today, it is a sleepy little village frozen in time.


There are 59 reasons why Lexington, KY, calls itself the Horse Capital of the World — and all are enumerated on the website of the Lexington Convention & Visitors Bureau. The first city outside of Europe to host the World Equestrian Games, it is home to the 1,200-acre Kentucky Horse Park and its popular parade of breeds called “Horses of the World,” the Mare and Foal Show, several museums, the Hall of Champions, the William Shatner-narrated film, “Rein of Nobility,” and more. Most recently, the city made history as the site of American Pharoah’s Grand Slam win at Breeders’ Cup 2016 at Lexington’s Keeneland Race Course. This is the locale of the Keeneland September Yearling Sales, which takes place September 12-24 this year. Also here: the International Museum of the Horse; The Thoroughbred Center, where future racing champions train; Old Friends, a thoroughbred retirement center; several equine care facilities; and horse farms trimmed in miles and miles of white fencing. Also proclaiming itself the Horse Capital of the World™ is Ocala/Marion County in Florida; in fact, it was read into the Congressional record in 1999. Here, a thriving thoroughbred industry was born in 1935 with the establishment of Rosemere Farm. Other breeding and training operations soon followed and today, Marion County is home to over 900 farms and breeding and training facilities with over 54 different breeds represented. Thirty-nine Florida-bred National Champions hail from Marion County, including Affirmed, who won the Triple Crown in 1978. The area remains the top breeding center in the nation where many future champions are broken and trained. Tour championship horse farms. Choose a ranch and take a guided trail ride. Join the crowd for the excitement of a rodeo. Stay at an equestrian resort. Ocala/Marion County’s history includes a long legacy of champions being born, bred and broken within its borders.

Willapa Bay is ranked within the top five estuaries in the world.





Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 29


SANTA FE, NM GREEN CHILI CAPITAL OF THE WORLD Nowhere in the world does the green chili pepper love the climate more than in northern New Mexico; in fact, 310-plus days of sunshine annually and a centuries-old tradition of cooking with green chili sauce (made from the green chili pepper) have combined to give Santa Fe bragging rights as the Green Chili Capital of the World. These sauces, passed down from family to family and refined with each generation, complement dishes from burritos and enchiladas to chocolate and cheeseburgers. In fact, Santa Fe is a stop on the New Mexico Green Chili Cheeseburger Trail and one of its famous restaurants, Santa Fe Bite, puts out a Green Chili Cheeseburger so good it placed in the final four as a best burger in the nation. Learn the secrets of the sauce at The Santa Fe School of Cooking. Browse its store or the Chili Store for seeds, roasters, cookbooks and more. Visit the award-winning Santa Fe Farmers’ Market to buy organic, heirloom, and locally-sourced varieties of green chili peppers. From late August through early October, see, hear, and smell these swoon-inducing delectables as they get roasted at harvest. 30 Food & Travel | Summer 2016


FRANKLIN COUNTY, VA MOONSHINE CAPITAL OF THE WORLD Back in the 1920s and 1930s, this county tucked in the foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains gained prominence before and during the lengthy — and somewhat bloody — Great Moonshine Conspiracy Trial of 1935. Back then, it was believed that Franklin County produced the highest volume of illegal liquor in the U.S., earning it the nickname of Moonshine Capital of the World. The locals have fun with their checkered past now, and celebrate their rich cultural heritage of moonshine making in high style during the two-day Moonshine Fest. Held annually in April, this family-friendly event has lots of live bluegrass and mountain music, storytelling, a Moonshine Car Show, Chug for the Jug 5K, arts and crafts, and “Tales of Honor,” an original play set at the height of the moonshine era. Teetotalers may prefer to indulge in the White Lightning Artisan Trail. Rather than the pop of a cork from a moonshine jug, you’ll hear the hum of the pottery wheel and more as Franklin County artisans work in their studios, creating handblown art glass, mosaics, stained glass pieces, pottery and more.


Santa Fe, New Mexico is a magical, exuberant, colorful journey at any time of year – especially at sunset.


The sauces made from the green chili peppers have been refined for centuries, often in closely guarded variations.


Franklin County is a mountain getaway with lots of options.

The Franklin County Moonshine Fest features a moonshine car show, live music, one-of-a-kind exhibits and demonstrations, including flat-footing and pigeon rolling and much more.

EPICUREAN TRAVELER Bass Harbor Lighthouse at sunset.




Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 31

A well established favorite, Stewman’s Classic Maine Lobster Roll features fresh picked lobster meat and a touch of seasoned mayonnaise on a butter-toasted roll.


risoners in 19th-century Maine didn’t live on bread and water. They dined regularly on lobster, but they sat down to their meals with a sense of disgust and loathing. After all, the ubiquitous crustacean was frequently used as fertilizer and was only consumed by the truly desperate. Who would voluntarily eat such a revolting-looking, bottom-dwelling creature? I would and did every chance I got in Bar Harbor, Maine, on Mount Desert Island (pronounced dessert by locals), a quaint seaside town that was once a summer oasis for the most affluent families in America. Think Rockefellers, Astors, and Vanderbilts. Obviously, attitudes toward consuming lobster have changed drastically since the 19th century, and the price reflects that. In some parts of the country, lobster lovers may feel they need a trust fund provided by one of the aforementioned families to afford such a luxury. Not in Maine. Lobster is plentiful and relatively inexpensive. I kicked off my week-long lobster feast at Stewman’s Lobster Pound, an outdoor eatery right

32 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

on Frenchman Bay. My family and I settled in at a picnic table painted with cartoonish lobsters and perused the menu. I chose that New England classic, the lobster roll. A mound of fresh lobster mixed with just a touch of creamy mayonnaise was bursting out of the buttery, toasted roll, making it more of a fork-and-knife affair than a handheld sandwich. The sweet meat was at once firm and tender. Crispy sweet potato fries and a side of coleslaw rounded out my lunch. For me, the meal perfectly captured the flavor of summer in Bar Harbor. My husband, Wesley, is a lobster purist, eschewing mayo or anything else that could detract from the true flavor of the most prized of shellfish. He went for the Simply Maine Lobster, which is kettle steamed in sea water. A server lifted the lid of a large oval-shaped pan with a flourish. Voila! Inside was a fire engine-red lobster that was probably crawling on the floor of the Atlantic Ocean that morning. Uninitiated diners tend to stare at a whole lobster looking as bewildered as a Maine moose that’s wandered onto the highway, but Wesley knows how to eat a lobster. He started by grabbing the body in one hand and the tail in the other, then gave it a hard twist. Next, he twisted off the claws, then yanked off the legs. Not everyone is such a proficient lobster eater. Many lobster pounds are so used to inept summer tourists, they offer written directions on how to properly disassemble and eat a lobster. We visited as many pounds as possible during our trip, including Thurston’s, where customers will see boats stacked high with lobster traps come into the busy harbor, and Trenton Bridge, where the lobster of your choice is cooked over a wood-fired cooker. I found the term “lobster pound” puzzling when I arrived in Bar Harbor. It sounds as though a bunch of unruly lobsters were caught running around the streets making a nuisance of themselves, and now the poor things are brooding in their cages, waiting to be reunited with their rightful owners. I soon learned “pounds” are simply casual, no-frills restaurants that keep live lobsters in a tank and serve them fresh. Maine lobster had humble beginnings, once eaten only by prisoners, servants, and the very poor, but it’s come up in the world, really made a name for itself. I think of lobster the same way I think of those country music stars that started out dirt poor picking cotton or coal mining in some Podunk town, then one day they discover their true talent lies in playing the guitar and singing about picking cotton or coal mining in some Podunk town. They rise from peon to superstar, finally getting the respect they feel they deserve. Once the lowliest forms of sustenance, lobster is now a delicacy. If lobsters could hold a pen in their claws, discerning foodies would stammer out



EPICUREAN TRAVELER If a little melted butter dribbles down your chin or a bit of shell flies across the table when you break off the claws, well, you’re in good company. When it comes to table manners, it seems to be an unspoken rule that lobster pounds are a judgment-free zone. LIGHTHOUSE TOUR Maine’s lighthouses are as famous as its lobsters, so one August afternoon, my bunch boarded a threelevel sightseeing boat operated by Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co. and set out for a guided lighthouse tour through beautiful Somes Sound. The sky was as blue as the sea, and we couldn’t have asked for a more perfect summer day. We were all in good spirits, so when the wind sent my hat spinning like a Frisbee into the boat’s wake, we fell into spasms of childish giggles. At first glance, historic lighthouses such as Winter Harbor on Mark Island and Egg Rock at the southern entrance of Frenchman Bay, may seem like little more than quaint antiquities, but there was a time when these navigational aids were crucial in preventing mariners from crashing onto craggy rocks and being pulled down by angry waves into an aquatic grave. Lighthouse keepers were the guardian angels of the sea.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A live lobster is pulled from its tank at Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound in Trenton, Maine. Winter Harbor Lighthouse. Maine lobster fresh from the steamer. A view of the harbor from shore. The Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound in Trenton, Maine.


a sheepish request for an autograph. But here’s the thing, like a country music star returning to his home town, lobster is not such a hot shot in Maine. Sure, they’re proud of him and all, but they’re not going to kowtow to him the way fans do in landlocked states. Mainers knew lobster before he got to be such a la-di-da fancy pants, strutting around garnished with edible flowers and sucking up to his snooty friend Turf of surf and turf fame. They don’t want lobster to forget where he comes from. So, in Maine, you don’t have to dine at a pricey, white tablecloth restaurant where the waiter places your napkin in your lap to enjoy lobster. Just tie on a lobster-emblazoned bib at a Bar Harbor lobster pound and get crackin’. If a little melted butter dribbles down your chin or a bit of shell flies across the table when you break off the claws, well, you’re in good company. When it comes to table manners, it seems to be an unspoken rule that lobster pounds are a judgment-free zone.

Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 33


In many parts of the country, an afternoon walk in August would be about as appealing as sticking your head in a hot oven, but Maine’s mild summer temps are ideal for hiking, biking, sailing, and picnicking in Acadia National Park, which offers stunning views of Cadillac Mountain.

Travel Notes

I pondered what life must have been like for the keepers and their families, isolated in these remote outposts with only seagulls for company. Many lighthouses are still active today, but, of course, they are now automated and don’t require a keeper. We sailed toward Bass Harbor Head Light on Mount Desert Island inside Acadia National Park, and the captain paused so we could take photos. Perched high on a cliff above a rocky coastline, it stands at attention like a watchful soldier. It’s the only lighthouse on the tour accessible by car, and my family and I agreed that one evening we would drive over and get a few sunset shots. When we returned to Bar Harbor, the whole town seemed be eating ice cream. We couldn’t resist the power of suggestion, so we bought cones in flavors that included Maine wild blueberry and chocolate moose tracks. We ate them while strolling along the Shore Path, a walking path that is more than a century old and winds past the majestic Bar Harbor Inn. In many parts of the country, an afternoon walk in August would be about as appealing as sticking your head in a hot oven, but Maine’s mild summer temps are ideal for hiking, biking, sailing, and picnicking in Acadia National Park, which offers stunning views of Cadillac Mountain. On our leisurely walk, we observed sailboats skimming along the water, admired a string of elegant summer homes, and finally, looped back around to Agamont Park. Kids were chasing each other through the park’s white gazebo and using a pair of old cannon as a jungle gym. Adults and their canine companions were splayed out lazily across the perfectly manicured grass, mesmerized by the lull of the sea. The scene was one of such exemplary summer bliss, it reminded me of Georges Seurat’s 1884 Pointillism masterpiece, “A Sunday on La Grande Jatte” — minus the ladies in bustles, of course. As we took it all in, Wesley asked the question that had been on everyone’s mind all afternoon. “Would we be eating lobster tonight?” 

➼ Stewman’s Lobster Pound:

➼ Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound: ➼ Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co.: ➼ Acadia National Park:

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➼ Thurston’s Lobster Pound:


Eggp lant “Mea tball s”

a t s a P T L B alad S

f e h C nki i D i k k Ni Cooking Channel host and cookbook author, Nikki Dinki is

changing the way home cooks think about vegetables by making


Spaghet ti Squash Strombo li

them the star of each dish. Through her distinctive approach to cooking inventive yet accessible recipes, demonstrated on her YouTube channel, NikkiDinkiCooking, she earned the opportunity to appear on the ninth season of Food Network Star. Stealing the spotlight with her unique vegetable-focused recipes, Dinki is now cohost of Cooking Channel’s Junk Food Flip, where she and Bobby Deen demonstrate that healthy cooking can be delicious and indulgent. Nikki’s first cookbook, Meat On The Side features her semi-vegetarian cuisine, proving that with a little creativity and direction, anyone can turn ingredients like summer squash, root vegetables, and winter greens, into tasty meals that even the pickiest eaters will enjoy. Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 35

CHEF NIKKI DINKI Eggplant “Meatballs” MAKES ABOUT FORTY 1-INCH BALLS 1 medium eggplant (about 1 pound) 3 tablespoons olive oil 10 ounces cremini mushrooms, coarsely chopped 1 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped 1 poblano chile, seeds and ribs removed, coarsely chopped 4 garlic cloves 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves ½ teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves 1½ cups panko bread crumbs 1 large egg 1½ teaspoons kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Grease a clean baking sheet or line it with parchment paper. Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise and place, cut side up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the oil over the cut surfaces. When the oven is hot, bake the eggplants until tender to the touch, 25 to 30 minutes. Set the eggplants aside to cool, but leave the oven on. 2. Add the mushrooms, onion, poblano, garlic, thyme, and rosemary to a large food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Stir as necessary and do not overprocess; you want small pieces but not mush. 3. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the chopped vegetables and sauté until tender and any moisture they give off has evaporated, 7 to 10 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, using a soupspoon, scoop the flesh of the cooled eggplants into the food processor. Process until pureed; you should have about ¾ cup eggplant puree. When the vegetables in the skillet are cooked, stir the eggplant puree into them and mix well. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. 5. When the mixture in the bowl is cool enough to handle, add the bread crumbs, egg, and salt to it and mix well until everything comes together. Pinch a walnut-size amount between your fingers and then roll it into a 1-inch ball; repeat until all the mixture is shaped into balls. Arrange the balls on the prepared baking sheet and bake in the still-heated oven until crisp and medium brown on the outside, 25 to 30 minutes. 6. Bake refrigerated balls at 400°F for 5 minutes and frozen balls for 10 minutes. Microwaving works, too, but gives you a softer texture.

36 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

Beet Pasta with Brown Butter Arugula Pesto

2. Once the browned butter and garlic mixture has reached room temperature, add it to the bowl of a food processor along with the arugula, parmesan, and toasted pine nuts. Blend this until it is smooth—you want it to be loose and easily spreadable.

Serves 4 2 medium beets, coarsely chopped 3 cups water 1 pound bucatini pasta ½ cup ricotta cheese 2 teaspoons lemon zest 1 cup Brown Butter Arugula Pesto (below) Pine nuts, for a garnish Arugula, for a garnish  

1. Place a large pot of water over high heat for cooking the pasta. While the water is heating, prepare the beet water you will use later by combining the beets and water in a blender. Transfer the beet water to another large pot. Begin heating the pot holding the beet water over high heat. 2. When the first pot of salted water has reached a boil, add the pasta and cook it according to the package directions until it is about 2-3 minutes shy of being done. Then drain the pasta and place it in the now-boiling beet water. Continue cooking it until it is al dente—2-3 minutes more. Drain the pasta and rinse it off to get rid of any beet pulp stuck to the noodles.

BLT Pasta Salad with Romaine Lettuce Dressing Makes 4 -6 servings, with about 2 cups Romaine Lettuce Dressing Romaine Lettuce Dressing 2 romaine hearts, halved 5 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup Greek yogurt Juice of 1 lemon 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper

BLT Pasta Salad

4. After the pasta is done, drain it and toss it with the pesto. Serve garnished with the lemon ricotta mixture, pine nuts and arugula.

1 pound short-cut pasta 4 strips extra thick-cut bacon 2 cups Romaine Lettuce Dressing 2 cups lightly packed baby spinach 2 cups halved grape tomatoes 1 cup finely chopped sundried tomatoes 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced (about 1 cup) 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper

Brown Butter Arugula Pesto

Romaine Lettuce Dressing

Makes 1 cup

1. Heat a grill pan over high heat. Then brush the 4 lettuce halves on the cut side with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Grill the lettuce cut-side-down until it is slightly charred and wilted—about 2-3 minutes. Remove the lettuce from the grill pan, coarsely chop it and discard the stems.

3. While the pasta is cooking, prepare the lemon ricotta garnish by thoroughly mixing the ricotta cheese and lemon zest. Set this mixture aside for later.

½ cup unsalted butter (1 stick) 4 cloves garlic, smashed 3 cups arugula ¾ cup parmesan cheese ¼ cups pine nuts, toasted   

1. In a medium pot over medium heat, melt the butter and cook it until browned— about 5 minutes. Add the smashed garlic and cook it until fragrant—about 1 minute. Then turn off the heat and let this mixture cool.

2. Combine the lettuce, yogurt, lemon juice, mustard, salt, and pepper in a food processor or blender. If all of the lettuce does not fit at one time, puree a portion of it, adding more as you do, until it is all in the food processor. Once it has all been pureed, set it aside for later.

HEADER HERE BLT Pasta Salad 1. Place a large pot of salted water over high heat. When the water boils, add the pasta and cook it according to the package directions. Then drain it, rinse it under cold water, and set it aside. 2. While the pasta cooks, in a large skillet over medium heat, cook the bacon until it is crispy—about 7 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels. Once it is cool enough to handle, coarsely chop it; this should give you about 1½ cup bacon pieces. Set the bacon aside for later. 3. Toss the pasta with the Romaine Lettuce Dressing, spinach, grape tomatoes, sundried tomatoes, onion, salt, and pepper. Top it with the bacon and serve!

Spaghetti Squash Stromboli Makes one 10x5-inch Stromboli, serves 2-3 1 large spaghetti squash (about 3 pounds) 1 tablespoon olive oil 1¼ teaspoons kosher salt 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2 ounces shredded parmesan cheese, plus 2 tablespoons for a garnish ¼ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes ½ cup tomato sauce ⅓ cup finely chopped green pepper ⅓ cup finely chopped roasted red pepper 3 ounces provolone cheese (about 3-4 slices) 2 ounces ham (about 2-3 slices) 1 ounce salami (about 4 slices) 3 ounces shredded mozzarella cheese

Transfer it to a kitchen towel or a piece of cheesecloth. Then roll up the cloth and twist and squeeze out as much liquid as you can. Squeeze hard to get out all the excess moisture; this is crucial to getting a good crust. Once done you should have about 2 cups of the cooked spaghetti squash. 3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly coat it with non-stick cooking spray. In the bowl of a food processor combine the squash, eggs, 2 ounces of parmesan, garlic powder, red pepper flakes, and the remaining ¼ teaspoon of salt. Pulse until mostly pureed. Then transfer the squash mixture to the baking sheet and shape it into a 10-inch square, about ¼- to ½-inch thick.

Chef Nikki Dinki

4. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake the crust until golden brown and firm— about 15 minutes. Remove it from the oven and spread the tomato sauce on the squash crust, leaving a 1½-inch border on one side. Top the tomato sauce with the green pepper, roasted red peppers, and then the provolone. Then top the provolone with the ham, salami, and finally the mozzarella cheese. 5. Roll up the Stromboli starting with the end on the side opposite of the border you left free of toppings. Fold ⅓ of the crust over itself towards the middle and then fold the other third over the first third. Sprinkle the Stromboli with the 2 tablespoons of parmesan and bake for 15 minutes more—until the cheese is melted and the crust is brown around the edges. Cut into pieces and serve with extra sauce.

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the squash in half lengthwise, use a soupspoon to scoop out the seeds, and then discard them. Arrange the squash cut-side-up on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle the oil evenly over each piece and then sprinkle them with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bake the squash until the flesh is tender and can be easily separated with the tines of a fork—45 to 50 minutes. Next, remove it from the oven, let it cool slightly, and turn the heat up to 450°F. 2. When the squash is cool enough to handle, use a dinner fork to gently separate the flesh into spaghetti-like strands.

Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 37


The Explorers’ Lounge aboard Viking Ocean Cruises is the perfect setting to celebrate firsts, whether glimpsing your first fjord or savoring aquavit.



Every cruise ship has those littleknown niches and nooks where you can escape the noise, crowds, and activity to relax and unwind, watch the waves or catch a sunset . . . those hidden crannies where you can share quiet conversation or stolen moments while still enjoying setting and scenery. Here are some shipboard secret spaces on some of the world’s most recognized cruise lines that have escaped the radar of the masses.


Enjoy these rooms with a view for taking a quiet moment for yourself aboard Carnival Cruise Line.

Time to go barefoot in the park aboard Celebrity Solstice-class ships and their lawn of real grass found on the top deck.

With a salute to F. Scott Fitzgerald’s 1925 novel, “The Great Gatsby,” Carnival Cruise Line has designed a “winter garden” hidden away on Deck 3 of its Spirit Class ships: Spirit, Miracle, Legend, and Pride. Each of the four winter gardens has a different name, which is tied to the ship’s theme. Aboard Miracle, the winter garden has white trellises and a faux-stone floor, garden-themed murals with white statuary, and bright orange flowers splashed across cushioned chairs. “In his blue gardens men and girls came and went like moths among the whisperings and the champagne and the stars,” Fitzgerald wrote of Jay Gatsby’s gardens. Sounds peaceful. Take a flute of bubbly and a good book — the occasion calls for a classic in American literature — and sink into the solitude of this quiet corridor.

CELEBRITY CRUISES In the secret spaces department, Celebrity’s Reflection, has an embarrassment of riches. One of the cruise line’s Solsticeclass ships, Reflection, has plenty of places off the beaten deck, so to speak.



Slip into something more comfortable, like a cabana that feels like it’s suspended over the sea, aboard the Costa Diadema.




On Disney cruise ships, the secret space – outside Promenade on deck 4 – is exactly where you might run into celebrities like Mickey Mouse or Donald Duck.

Slip into the Alcoves, private cabana-styled havens guests can rent. Set amidst the grass in the Lawn Club, these comfy retreats make a perfect perch for a day or evening of together time. Relax to music preloaded on an iPad, order a picnic basket, cocktails — even spa services — and feel the grass between your toes . . . at sea.

Escape into your own private lounging “nest” in The Hideaway, where you can read, listen to music, do a crossword puzzle, or simply take a breather. The Library offers two floors of quiet contemplation, a hushed and calming environment for browsing your favorite magazines. In the Relaxation Room, sip a glass of cucumberinfused water or an herbal tea while listening to soft music and being lulled by a view of the ocean through floor-toceiling glass panels.

COSTA CRUISES People in glass houses should avail themselves of the view, especially when it’s framing miles of deep blue ocean. Aboard the Costa Diadema, a Dream-class cruise ship, six enclosed gazebos extend from the side of the ship to create

a feeling of being suspended over the sea. Hidden in plain sight on the Promenade on deck 5, the gazebos are generally underutilized by passengers so you just may find that you have the place to yourself. Relax over morning coffee and catch the sunrise. Linger over afternoon drinks or a sunset dinner — all comfortably sheltered from the wind. The Promenade circles the Diadema from stern to bow and features two large glass mosaics named of the Mediterranean coastline by artist Roberto Bixio. It’s a lovely, undiscovered spot to share a quiet moment.

DISNEY CRUISE LINE Aboard all four Disney cruise ships (Magic, Wonder, Fantasy, & Dream), the best-kept secret space is the outside Promenade on deck 4. Here is the place to slip away from the hubbub to get re-centered or get lost in that book you promised yourself you would read on this vacation. The deck 4 promenade has comfy, inviting chaise loungers and a classic design that celebrates the golden age of ocean liners. A stray jogger or two may interrupt your line of Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 39

Enjoy exclusive benefits including priority embarkation and disembarkation, reserved seating in the Escape Theatre, in-suite espresso/cappuccino machines, gourmet treats delivered each evening and more aboard NCL’s The Haven.

Holland America Line’s ms Noordam

vision, but this mostly peaceful place overlooking the ocean is crowd-free and a special spot for planning a sunset walk. Plus, Disney characters sometimes take strolls down the promenade, making for a wonderful and spontaneous photo op. Shh. On Disney’s summer sailings in Alaska and Norway, the deck 4 Promenade is a fantastic place to station yourself for soaking up the views, spotting wildlife, and meeting Disney friends while cruising through the fjords — sans the crowds.

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE When everyone heads to the Crow’s Nest for catching up and catching the views — and they are very nearly incomparable from this vantage point, draw up just short of it and hang a right into the Oak Room. Tucked into a corner just outside the Crow’s Nest on deck 10, this calming nook overlooked by most has comfy leather seating where you can settle in with a good read, concentrate on a crossword puzzle, or study the shore tour booklet, a notquite-as-dramatic albeit still 40 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

treatment rooms. Concierge services and a 24-hour butler? It’s as divine as it sounds.


Viking Ocean Cruises

lovely view on the side. You’ll find the Oak Room aboard the ms Noordam. It has the look and feel of a reading room and is the perfect spot for late-night cocktails and murmured conversation. If you want to escape the noise of the Lido Restaurant and prefer to eat inside, assemble a lunch tray and head here.

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE NCL’s newest ship, Norwegian Escape — the first of four Breakaway Plus-class vessels and the largest in the NCL fleet — has a few secret spaces of her own. The purchase of an access pass is required for entrée

to the Vibe Beach Club, but it’s oh so worth it for the private sundeck with oversized lounge beds, dedicated bar and a private whirlpool that’s cantilevered over the side of the ship, making for perfect ocean and sunset views. It gets even better. Guests booking one of just 95 suites at the top of the ship will be pampered with privacy, personalized service, and a deluxe array of complimentary amenities. Aptly named The Haven, this refuge includes a private restaurant, cocktail bar, a two-story courtyard area with a retractable roof, pool, two whirlpools, and a private sundeck, along with private spa

Solitude with a view. The Viking Star and newly christened Viking Sea inspire meditative moments about the day’s discoveries over a chilled pint from the extensive Craft Beer Library in the Explorer’s Lounge. Here is the place to swap stories with a few like-minded adventurers while appreciating the view from expansive, double-height windows. With just 928 passengers aboard, elbow jostling is already kept to a minimum. Still, when you want to decompress from a day of exploring such heady sights as Gdansk, Poland, and its Malbork Castle — the medieval eutonic stronghold and world’s largest castle — and recount your reaction to this UNESCO World Heritage Site, you don’t want to talk over hundreds of excited voices. You want the low-key and intimate atmosphere of the Explorer’s Lounge, the perfect setting of understated elegance for overthe-top experiences.





FREDERICK, MARYLAND A city with traditional, colonial charm meets a growing cosmopolitan food and beverage scene. BY CHRIS CHAGARIS

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rive about an hour northwest of Washington, D.C. and you will come upon Frederick, Maryland. I have always had an affinity for this quaint city, as I attended the venerable Hood College not that many moons ago (or so I’d like to think). Perhaps most impressive about Frederick is that while retaining its historic, small-town-esque charm, in recent years it has progressed into a location with a cosmopolitan atmosphere, attracting visitors from near and far. This is in large part due to the strength of its up and coming culinary, artisanal and craft brewing offerings, among its many other facets.

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Frederick is Maryland’s second largest city behind Baltimore, and it played a prominent role in Civil War History. My recent visit found me walking down North Market Street, a main thoroughfare, and its many side streets, marveling at how the downtown has expanded since my college years while still exuding Colonial-era allure with its row house style, brick architecture. In a city teeming with historical reminders, I was struck by the number of establishments which have quickly emerged to please the palate and satisfy beer and spirits aficionados. Noted Chef Bryan Voltaggio, along with business partner Hilda Staples is the owner and Executive Chef behind Frederick restaurants VOLT and Family Meal. Voltaggio, a Frederick native, also owns several other restaurants in the D.C. metro area and was a finalist on shows Top Chef and Top Chef Masters. VOLT and Family Meal distinctly cater to a specific clientele. Opened in 2008 housed in a 19th century brownstone, VOLT offers an upscale menu. Family Meal opened in 2012 and, with its other locations throughout the D.C. metro area is geared to a more casual dining experience, with dishes that the whole family can enjoy yet with a unique twist. Each restaurant is all about serving food with locally sourced ingredients. “We believe in working within our vast region of the Mid-Atlantic for ingredients for our menus,” said Voltaggio. “Regardless if the dish is a simple rendition of an American classic, as you will


find on the menu at Family Meal, or a more complex presentation using the same seasonal ingredients at VOLT, both are supported by a great appreciation for fundamental cooking. We can provide both a relaxed, approachable, everyday dining experience at Family Meal and a more celebratory and refined experience at VOLT.” The chef is one to sing Frederick’s praises. “We have a lot to offer here,” he said. “There’s a great community of restaurants and shops downtown,” he said. “I am excited to be part of the growth in my hometown and I look forward to seeing more great small businesses in our city.” Brewer’s Alley restaurant is housed in a building erected in 1765, rebuilt in 1872 with the original foundation still intact. Previous incarnations included stints as a town hall, a theater, and an opera house. Owner Phil Bowers - coincidentally, a fellow Hood alum — has roots in Frederick that go back many generations. The eatery serves American regional cuisine and wood-fired pizza. “We also have six yearround beers and a rotation of beers as well,” he said. The restaurant recently underwent a remodeling and restoration, and is slated to unveil its new look this month. “We are bringing back a small-batch brewing system for our beers, and the kitchen and dining area are new, along with a rooftop terrace that holds 80 to 100 people,” said Bowers. Bowers is also the owner of four other Frederick restaurants — Isabella’s, Reina, Ayse Meze, Pistarro’s,

and the city’s Monocacy Brewing Company. Opened in 2002, Isabella’s offers a Spanish tapas menu; Ayse Meza serves Mediterranean cuisine; and Pistarro’s, Italian dishes. Awarded “Best New Restaurant” by Frederick Magazine, Reina has Peruvian and South American flavors well in hand. All of Bowers’ restaurants have some gluten free items, and Pistarro’s offers vegan pizza. Monocacy Brewing Company just celebrated its tenth anniversary, complete with a tasting room, the brewery offers three year round beers. “Between Monocacy and Brewer’s Alley, we have a rotation of 25 beers,” according to Bowers. “The nice thing about brewing the beer in front of customers is that we get immediate feedback.” As for plans to add to his collection of places to eat? “Never say never,” he said. “We have lots of different concepts and ideas. I’ve had inquiries about opening other locations of my restaurants so we’ll see what happens.” Frederick’s culinary offerings extend beyond restaurants. Can you say … cheese? Step into Crisafulli’s Cheese Shop, just around the corner from Brewer’s Alley on East Second Street and you will soon become immersed in everything cheese. Owner Sharon Crisafulli, who, like Bowers has deep family roots in Frederick, greets me with an ebullient hello and eagerly fills me in on her year-old shop. She infuses her store with an airy and welcoming atmosphere, emphasized by the fact that it’s a family affair. Her mom, Betty Gardiner is co-owner, and daughter Caitlin works in the shop. Crisafulli has done a 180 degree turn from her previous career as vice president of a real estate company. It’s a change that was a welcome one for her, as I could see her passion for and knowledge of her shop’s products. Folks can take their food to go, or enjoy the small eating space up front with a few round tables and chairs where customers can partake in the shop’s sandwiches and soup or cheese tray of the day. I had the Simple Steve V Grilled Cheese, (the V is for vegetarian), the blend of cheeses on lightly buttered bread literally melted in my mouth delivering an unbelievably smooth flavor. “We carry over 170 different types of cheeses, international and local,” Crisafulli said proudly. “We are constantly rotating our stock, and our goal is to get that number to 200.” The shop also carries items that compliment cheese: wines, ciders, pastas, sauces, antipasti, honeys, jams, crackers, candy, and charcuterie are but a few. Information signs are on almost every product in the store, which helps customers to mix and match products to get the best taste experience. “Our wines are from the regions that match with

“I appreciate how successfully Frederick has blended its historic roots with a growing worldly edge.“

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the cheese,” said Crisafulli. She also offers cheese education classes that take place in a large event room at the front of the store. Beer and cheese? Crisafulli’s banking on this winning combination. “We just started a partnership with Flying Dog Brewery of Frederick, and we’re teaching “Cheese and Beer 101” classes that show people how to pair certain brews with artisanal cheeses that make a great taste experience,” she said. I couldn’t leave without tasting their highly recommended cheese and a few other goodies for myself. I bought a wedge of Somerdale’s Wensleydale with Blueberries, celery crackers made by The Fine Cheese Company of Bath, England, and some caramels. Let me start by saying that, although I have an affinity for fruited cheese I’d never tried it with blueberries — I am glad I did; my personalized combo of cheese crackers was an experience in deliciousness, and popping one of the creamy, buttery caramel candies into my mouth make the perfect chaser. Rounding out Frederick’s restaurant and cheese offerings is something a bit more “spirited,” pardon the pun. Craft distilleries are emerging as the newest players on the city’s beverage scene. Tenth Ward Distilling Company, which I visited prior to its April opening, has the distinction of being the first distiller in the downtown area. I was immediately struck by the aroma of spirits produced by the fermenting grain during my visit to the soon-to-be establishment. Co-founders Monica Pearce and Kyle Pfalzer were inspired to open Tenth 44 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

Ward by the craft distilling boom. “Frederick used to be districted into wards during the Prohibition era, so that’s where the name comes from,” said Pearce. The distillery’s grain is locally sourced from a farmer in nearby West Virginia, who malts it in-house. “We are going to be distilling whisky and apple brandy using McCutcheon’s Cider, a local brand. We are calling the product ‘Apple Jack’ after the traditional American name for apple brandy.” Pearce mentioned adding that the distillery will first sell its products out of the tasting room, and then hopes to supply local bars and liquor stores. The distillery will have a retail area in addition to a front bar. “We’ll sell our spirits and tee shirts, along with a variety of wood chips and small and large jars to age white rye whisky or white corn whisky. That way, the customers can be creative and be their own distillers.” Pearce added that in the future, Tenth Ward might expand to a larger space. “Right now, we just want to have fun with our product,” she said. With an inherent need to bring things full circle before my Frederick sojourn comes to a close, I felt it only appropriate to honor the place that initially drew me to Frederick, Hood College. Like Frederick, the school has undergone many changes — the most prominent was its transition from an allwomen’s school, as it was when I attended, to a coed institution. Despite this and other changes, Mt. Hood has managed to keep its traditions and heritage. The president of the school, Andrea Chapdelaine, PhD, is a newcomer to Frederick, and has been captivated by its charm. She gave me some perspective on the special relationship between this up-and-coming city and Hood, a Frederick mainstay. “We want to feature Frederick when reaching out to students,” she told me. “It has a rich history and an old-fashioned charm but it really also is a young person’s town, and a lot of our students stay here after they graduate,” she said. “This isn’t only because it’s near Washington, D.C. and Baltimore, but because it has a lot to offer on its own.” Chapdelaine said that she has delighted in discovering local eateries. Ayse Meze and Brewer’s Alley are among her go-to stops. “There are also incredible coffee shops and so many other restaurants that I want to try,” she said. “It’s great that our students have access to downtown and that many of the restaurants are affordable, so they have a variety to choose from.” Each time I visit, I appreciate how successfully Frederick has blended its historic roots with a growing worldly edge. With each day giving rise to growth and opportunity, I’ve come to rely on the fact that while certain things change, others remain the same; and that I can always count on each visit being slightly different than the one before. 

SHORELINE SERENTIY “So don’t you sit upon the shoreline and say you’re satisfied, choose to chance the rapids and dare to dance the tide.” — Garth Brooks

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Prince Edward Island “CANADA’S FOOD ISLAND” Golden beaches, towering sand dunes, jagged red cliffs, vibrant fishing harbors, and rolling green farms make Prince Edward Island a photographer’s paradise and a foodie’s haven.

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ich in potatoes, blueberries, beef, and pork; abounding in lobster, mussels, and oysters; and brimming with passionately creative chefs, it’s only natural that PEI is home to the Culinary Institute of Canada. And that’s just scratching the surface. Follow the PEI Culinary Trail where it’s possible to eat your way “tip to tip,” as the islanders say, from East Point to North Cape, across a breathtaking landscape. Islanders are great celebrators of food, known for their kitchen parties, beach picnics, barbecue pits, market days, and food festivals, culminating in the grand fiesta of them all – the PEI Fall Flavors Festival. This month long, island-wide food festival with over 50 culinary events highlights authentic island tastes and traditions to celebrate fall harvest season. PEI chefs delight in the island’s abundance of seasonal ingredients. From wharves and orchards to farms and u-picks, buying lobsters fresh from the fishers’ traps, and foraging for fiddleheads, dining on the island is very much a local experience. Stop at roadside fruit and vegetable stalls or explore neighborhood bakeries, sinking into the aroma of fresh-baked bread, pies, and cookies. “Living off the land” is a satisfying and quintessential part of the

island way of life which anyone can enjoy simply by traveling the PEI Culinary Trail. Part of the charm of “eating island” is coming across unexpected delicacies such as artisanal cheeses, homemade jams, smoked salmon, heritage recipes, church suppers, and strawberry socials – unique local events and specialties to be savored and cherished, first as delicious culinary experiences and later as vivid PEI memories. For those looking for a more hands-on experience, take part in island life and take home local traditions. Hop on an oyster dory (small boat) and learn to


From wharves and orchards to farms and u-picks, buying lobsters fresh from the fishers’ traps and foraging for fiddleheads, dining on the island is very much a local experience.

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tong, shuck, and eat oysters straight out of the bay; dig or dive for island clams and cook them on the beach or enjoy deep-sea fishing for bait before hand-feeding giant blue-fin tuna as they swim under your boat. Become a lobster fisherman and learn to set your traps and cook your fresh delicious catch, or participate in a hands-on pottery workshop, culinary boot-camp, or Acadian step-dance class. With over 50 Authentic PEI 50 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

Experiences, there’s adventure for everyone. One aspect of island life that’s sure to make an impression is the extraordinary combination of gorgeous landscapes and great eating. Decks, verandahs, bars, and dining rooms are all located to maximize the breathtaking views. Enjoy an ice-cold PEI handcrafted ale while looking out over a quaint fishing wharf or a succulent lobster supper on a patio with a panoramic view down a blue, boat-dotted bay. PEI is a feast for the senses. Look for white-painted lighthouses perched atop redcliff capes overlooking sandbars, harbors, bridges, and wharfs. Listen for the crash of waves along the island’s 1100km (684 miles) of coastline. Feel the white sandy beach under your feet and the warmth of the sun on your skin. Smell the fresh salt seaside air and the scent of wild roses and bayberry leaves. Taste a lobster roll crammed with lobster fresh off the boat, an oyster plucked straight from the sea, or the world’s best creamy icecream. These are just some of the sensuous pleasures that await the island visitor. 





Cycling is one of the favorite summer activities in Traverse City, with ample opportunities for road riders as well as mountain bikers.

hen I moved to Traverse City from Miami almost 40 years ago, I assumed I was making a trade-off. In return for the chance to surround myself with some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, I’d be giving up a few little things — like great restaurants, nightlife, and culture. I quickly discovered that my anticipated concessions couldn’t have been further from the truth, in fact, my initial thoughts seem downright absurd as I consider the Traverse City of today. This unexpected little paradise on the shores of Michigan’s Grand Traverse Bay does have miles of beautiful beaches, gentle hills, and shady forest glades… but it also has award-winning wineries, imaginative restaurants, eclectic shopping, and an abundance of art, music, and drama. More than just holding its own, this city on the bay is now becoming known for the outstanding quality of its food and drink. The crystalline waters and glacier-sculpted ridges that make Traverse City such an attractive vacation spot also make it



the perfect microclimate for growing fruit. Already known as the nation’s leading producer of cherries, in the late 1970s local growers discovered that the area contained the unique combination of elements necessary to nurture and give birth to wine grapes. Traverse City’s nutrient rich earth is situated on the 45th parallel — halfway between the North Pole and the Equator — the same parallel as the renowned wine regions of France and Italy. The area’s two wine trails are located on the picturesque Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas, both stretching out into the sapphire blue waters of Lake Michigan. The water surrounding these peninsulas serves several purposes: In the fall, early frost is held at bay thanks to the water’s lingering warm temperature, and during the winter the vines stay cozy under thick blankets of lake-effect snow. In the spring, early budding is rare thanks to the still-chilly temperatures of the bay. Due to the unique nature of its microclimate, Traverse City emerged as a significant wine-growing region by the 1980’s. Today, the wines produced in the nearly 40 Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 51

SHORELINE SERENITY wineries of the nearby Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas have won a loyal following. The local wine industry also helped launch Traverse City’s growing reputation as a food destination. Talented and inventive local chefs had been working for years to develop a homegrown cuisine based on fresh local ingredients from our woods, waters, and farms, and suddenly the rest of the world started noticing. In 2010 Traverse City was named one of the country’s “Top Five Foodie Towns”

Dining al fresco on the waterfront at an open-air restaurant like The Boathouse at Bowers Harbor is one of the best experiences of a Traverse City summer.

by Bon Appetit, and Top Chef Mario Batali calls it a hidden “gastro-paradise.” Michigan is second only to California in the bounty and diversity of its food production. Traverse City cuisine is characterized by a generous and innovative use of fresh ingredients. In fact, the region’s farm-to-table culture can be found in a surprising variety of places, from small tavern-style eateries to the growing fleet of food trucks found on city streets. Meanwhile, the city’s craft brewing industry (there were almost 20 brewpubs and microbreweries at last count) has been recognized as one of the most vibrant in North America. Naturally, many of the town’s celebrations revolve around food and drink. They include the National Cherry Festival in July, the Traverse City Wine & Art Festival, two Microbrew & Music festivals (one in summer and another in midwinter), and a plethora of wine trail events. For nearly a century artists, craftsmen, and musicians have made their homes in and around Traverse City, giving the community a surprisingly rich cultural life and providing near endless opportunities for shopping and browsing in its many galleries and studios. For a real treat, step into Traverse City’s tree-shaded, pedestrian-friendly downtown or the nearby Village at Grand Traverse Commons, where the castle-like buildings of a 19th century mental asylum have been restored into the perfect destination for an unforgettable shopping excursion.

The sheltered waters of Grand Traverse Bay mean splendid beaches just a block from downtown Traverse City.

Bound by water in almost every direction, Traverse City is a compact community shaped by its close relationship with Grand Traverse Bay.

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SHORELINE SERENITY Thanks to the region’s wealth of performing talent, nightlife in Traverse City can be an evening of cool jazz in a local restaurant, some cutting-edge rock in a Union Street bistro, or a symphony concert at the renowned Interlochen Center for the Arts. Of course, there are all those scenic views and recreational opportunities that brought me here in the first place. There’s probably no single place in the Midwest that evokes the spirit and magic of the great outdoors quite as perfectly as Traverse City. This special place is often referred to as “the Caribbean of the North,” a bit of hyperbole that becomes understandable once you’ve watched the sparkling waters change from transparent aquamarine to deepest cobalt, or walked these wide golden beaches. Some of the nation’s finest trout streams are located here, and the nearby lakes and rivers are perfect for sailing, boating, swimming, and canoeing. There are hundreds of square miles of state and national forests, dozens of nature preserves and wildlife refuges for hikers and backpackers. Perhaps the best example of this beauty is the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a 64-mile curve of beaches, coves, islands, and hills that was voted “Most Beautiful Place in America” by viewers of Good Morning America. As it turned out, my move to Traverse City 40 years ago didn’t involve a trade-off of any kind. I found glorious scenery, wonderful food, and great wine, all in one lovely spot. 

LEFT: The Great Lawn at the Grand Traverse Commons is the site of many local events including the Traverse City Wine & Arts Festival. BELOW: Protected by the deep waters of Grand Traverse Bay, the vineyards of the Old Mission and Leelanau peninsulas produce excellent wines and are noted for their scenic settings.

Gallery 50

Hawthorne Vineyards

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lake guntersville & marshall county, ALABAMA

View from the back deck of Wyndham Garden Inn.

Northern Alabama has been keeping a delightful secret in the foothills of the southern Appalachian Mountains. It has been said that time spent at the lake restores the soul, so rest assured that with 69,000 acres of smooth water, Lake Guntersville has more than enough of what it takes. 54 Food & Travel | Summer 2016



Screaming Eagle Aerial Adventures at Lake Guntersville State Park.

Unique shopping in Downtown Guntersville at Fants Department Store.

Crawmamma’s Restaurant in Guntersville.


Spring to Summer Wakeboard Tournament

Main Channel Brewery in Guntersville.

ocated along the banks of the Tennessee River in Northeastern Alabama, Lake Guntersville Resort State Park promises to enthrall leisure travelers and adventure seekers alike. Whether in search of a resort style retreat or enlivened outdoor pursuits in the park’s 6,000 acres of natural woodlands, a day spent at Alabama’s largest lake can be slow and easy or fast and fun. For those craving the peace and quiet of a lake community, there are meandering trails along the water’s banks with benches perfectly situated for catching an evening sunset. Endless exploration lies in wait among the ridges, waterfalls, and river in beautiful Lake Guntersville State Park. Known for its largemouth bass, anglers flock from places near and far in hope of capturing the big one. Fishing guides are on standby waiting to reveal hidden coves and tributaries teeming with bass. When temperatures rise, the lake is the place to be — from waterskiing to wakeboarding, whether you are looking for a challenging day of water play or a leisurely boat ride, Lake Guntersville is your getaway destination. Hiking trails lead to a historic downtown with unique boutiques that offer everything from the whimsical to one-of-a-kind rustic. For dinner, there’s the creative farm-to-table menu at Old Town Stock House, where Chef Crystal McKone partners with local


growers to find the freshest ingredients. The restaurant is housed in a renovated building dating back to 1901, with the wood interior and brick walls providing an intimate atmosphere where the conversation flows leisurely through courses that tempt the palate. Take to the sky for a bird’s eye view from atop the tree line with Lake Guntersville State Park’s Screaming Eagle Aerial Adventure zip line course or explore below the surface with a visit and guided tour at Cathedral Caverns. Lake City Amusement Park, with its retro vibe and kid-friendly rides provides an entertaining break for those looking to get off the water for a few hours. After a busy day outdoors, the fun doesn’t have to end. Stop by Main Channel Brewery for a glass of their popular Amber. Then head over to Crawmama’s for a plate of fried shrimp or their famous crawfish. The food is delicious and the experience is unique. The restaurant, with its patchwork walls and concrete floors, is a local favorite and most Friday and Saturday nights the restaurant features live music. Traditional hotels with lake views, cabins, chalets, and even a lodge perched atop Taylor Mountain and overlooking Lake Guntersville offer options for weekend getaways or week-long family vacations. Several resort campgrounds that sit directly on the water provide yet another way to escape and enjoy a little lakeside living.  Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 55


A HIDDEN TREASURE REVEALED Torrance is a hidden gem of rich local experiences awaiting discovery; from the sun-kissed, uncrowded local beach to the best in the craft beer scene, Torrance shines bright as Southern California’s new “it” destination. 56 Food & Travel | Summer 2016


live with an exhilarating energy and easy-going spirit, Torrance is a colorful and refreshing stop along the road less traveled. Well-crafted and completely captivating, this hidden-gem-ofa-beach-town welcomes you with open arms, a playful heart, and a whole lot of soul. If that isn’t enough to entice you to stay awhile, be prepared to discover culinary adventures and mind-blowing craft breweries that are as authentic as the locals.



SHORELINE SERENITY CALLING CRAFT BREW ENTHUSIASTS What’s pouring in Torrance is something unique. With its reputation for innovation and out-ofthe-bottle thinking, Torrance is revolutionizing the Los Angeles craft beer scene. Brew masters are drawn to Torrance for its unique natural resources, friendly residents, and supportive community. You can feel that energy when you visit each brewery, so it’s no wonder Torrance is home to a booming craft beer industry.

FOODIES IN PARADISE Full of surprises and local flavor of the culinary kind, Torrance is full of restaurants and diverse eateries known for their unique combination of refined ingenuity and down-toearth approachability using the best in local ingredients. You’ll be asking yourself “What’s next?” as you taste your way through Torrance’s rich food scene featuring some of the best ramen in LA and to-die-for baked goods. Not Just Another Southern California Beach Uncrowded. Pristine. Friendly. Torrance offers a quieter beach lesser known to many travelers. A locals’ paradise, this 1.5 mile stretch of California dream surf and sand is the perfect place to soak up the sun, enjoy a picnic, and take a leisurely stroll or bike pedal your way up and down “The Strand,” Southern California’s 22-mile coastal bike path. It might even boast a secret surf spot known only to locals…


SO, ARE YOU IN? Torrance is a story of a city with breweries hidden in industrial parks, a sun-kissed local beach, unbelievable food behind unassuming doors, some of the best shopping in the state, a famous recording studio, multiple museums, and thirty parks, all surrounded by a group of people so proud and unique, yet so humble. After exploring all day, it’s nice to know you can rest your head on a comfy pillow in one of 14 hotel properties in Torrance. With an assortment of lodging options and styles, it’s easy to create your ideal vacation while keeping your wants and needs in mind. Discovering Torrance is an unforgettable experience you’ll savor, and want to rediscover over and over again. You’ll leave saying “I discovered this great place in Torrance…” 

To learn more visit

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NATURAL BEAUTIES Live in the sunshine. Swim the sea. Drink the wild air. — Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Redding is the heart of Northern California’s fishing, and home to famous trout waters like the Lower Sacramento River and Upper Sac.


Covering twenty percent of the Golden State and roughly the size of Ireland, Shasta Cascade has to be seen to be believed. High desert, lush river valleys, rolling foothills, and even volcanic wonders are all a short drive from one another in this natural wonderland.

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For those who’d prefer to be on the river instead of alongside it, the trout fishing in Redding is second to none in the western United States, according to Forbes magazine, and Redding is the second sunniest city in the country, with 300 sunshine days per year, making it easy to get outside and explore.


he picturesque city of Redding serves as Shasta Cascade’s hub and is home to the internationally-acclaimed Sundial Bridge. This stunning, glass-decked pedestrian bridge links the north and south sides of the Sacramento River and connects the extensive walking and biking trails that make Redding “the trails capital of California.” For those who’d prefer to be on the river instead of alongside it, the trout fishing in Redding is second to none in the western United States, according to Forbes magazine, and Redding is the second sunniest city in the country, with 300 sunshine days per year, making it easy to get outside and explore.

Nearby Whiskeytown National Recreation Area is an outdoor lover’s paradise, boasting waterfalls and mountain trails, and offering sailing, paddling, beachbumming, and wildlife viewing. The Whiskeytown Regatta has sailed for more than 50 years, and rangers lead moonlight kayak tours in the summer. The shores of Whiskeytown Lake have hosted symphonies and luaus, welcoming as much art and culture as they do recreation. Lassen Volcanic National Park is just an hour’s drive east of Redding, with incredible mountain scenery and fascinating thermal wonders. Children and avid back country adventurers alike enjoy the wide variety of trails, and the park is open year-round, offering opportunities for every nature

LEFT: Enjoy sailing on Whiskeytown National Recreation area’s clear blue waters. TOP: Enjoy springtime in July at Lassen Volcanic National Park. ABOVE: Savor the seasonal, locally-sourced menu at Moonstone Bistro.

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NATURAL BEAUTIES PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: During the winter months, Lassen transforms into a snowy wonderland. Paddle boarding along the scenic Sacramento River. Glass decked pedestrian bridge across the Sacramento River. Whiskeytown National Recreation Area: enjoy a variety of scenic hikes at all skill levels.

large selection of wine, while The Dip serves up craft beer and cocktails in a comfortable corner joint. No matter how you like your steak, Market Street Steakhouse or Jack’s Grill can serve it up perfectly. Market Street has a larger menu and bar seating, and is a favorite for date nights and nights out with good friends, while the legendary Jack’s Grill hasn’t changed a thing about its specialty menu or establishment in decades, making it a mouthwatering curiosity and a hidden gem the locals might not even want to tell you about. Whether you go outdoors for tranquility or excitement, the unforgettable Shasta Cascade has an expansive, unspoiled stretch of nature just for you, and when you get hungry or need a reason to dance, Redding’s plates and stages always come through. For an unforgettable diversity of experiences, look toward the giant sundial in far northern California. 

For an unforgettable diversity of experiences, look toward the giant sundial in far northern California.


Paved pedestrian and biking trail that goes from Shasta Dam all the way to the Sundial Bridge.

lover, from bird-watching to snowshoeing. Lassen Park is also one of the few remaining sanctuaries of natural darkness, and its star-gazing opportunities are celebrated every August at the Dark Sky Festival. The annual Art and Wine of Lassen event pairs incredible scenery with delicious local fare. If you’d prefer to stay indoors, Redding’s many cultural and dining opportunities will satiate and entertain you. Savor the seasonal, locally-sourced menu at Moonstone Bistro with a cocktail or two, or watch the sun set behind the Trinity Alps while the river flows below you from the deck of View 202. Downtown Redding’s wine bars, pubs, and live music stages of all sizes are all within walking distance from one another, so you can take your pick. The Dip and Vintage Wine Bar both regularly host touring bands and musicians, with the former offering delicious food, craft beer, and of course: a

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Head for the Foothills

The breathtaking view atop the Blue Ridge Escarpment at Caesars Head State Park.

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When it comes to enjoying the great outdoors, Greenville, South Carolina is a natural.

TOP: A cyclist glides by The Cafe at William’s Hardware in Travelers Rest. ABOVE LEFT: A rollerblader and walkers leisurely enjoy a beautiful day outdoors on the GHS Swamp Rabbit Trail. ABOVE RIGHT: Wakeboarding is a classic pastime on the sparkling blue waters of Lake Keowee.

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Checking in at more than 56,000 acres, nearby Lake Hartwell completes this watery trifecta. It’s one of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers’ most visited lakes, largely because of its outstanding watersports and legendary wide-mouth bass fishing. Word is that fish of more than 20 pounds are fairly common, and snapshots tacked to the walls of nearby fish camps back up the talk. While the regions lakes alone are certainly worth the trip, the countryside surrounding Greenville plays no second fiddle. Nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the entire area presents itself as an outdoor lover’s paradise; and with three state parks within easy driving distance of the city, it’s no wonder. Seated atop the Blue Ridge Escarpment, Caesars



ere’s the simple truth: the natural attractions of Greenville, South Carolina will surprise you. No matter how far you’ve traveled or how many places you’ve been, there’s just no getting around the fact that this place — from its 21-mile rails-to-trails masterpiece called the GHS Swamp Rabbit Trail to a seemingly endless collection of lakes, trails and waterfalls — is one long and delightfully winding road of outdoor discovery. The gems of the region, Lake Jocassee, Lake Keowee, and Lake Hartwell are three of the largest and deepest lakes in the state. Lake Jocassee is the northernmost of the three, covering 7,500 acres and reaching a depth of 300 feet. Widely regarded as the state’s most scenic and pristine, Jocassee’s cool, clear waters create a recreational paradise. Separated from Jocassee by a hydroelectric dam, 18,300-acre Lake Keowee is one of the area’s most beloved recreation destinations. Known for its breathtaking mountain views and crystal blue, warm waters, Keowee also boasts outstanding bass fishing.

NATURAL BEAUTIES Aerial View over Falls Park on the Reedy.


Whether heading for the hills on one of the countless country roads or charting an easier and flatter course along the GHS Swamp Rabbit Trail, leaving your bike at home is one mistake you don’t want to make. Head State Park is appropriately named for a granite outcropping resembling the helmeted head of the famous Roman emperor. With its panoramic vistas and prime position as a flyway during the fall hawk migration, Caesars Head is a bird-watcher’s paradise which delivers world-class camping, hiking, and fishing experiences. As part of the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area, the parks trails connect seamlessly to neighboring Jones Gap State Park, the 11,000acre home of scenic waterfalls including Rainbow Falls, and an absolutely stunning 420-foot cascade tumbling from Raven Cliff. The trails frequently flirt with the Middle Saluda River, where more than one weary hiker has taken a cooling dip. Perhaps the biggest surprise of all waits just a few

minutes from downtown Greenville. Visible from almost anywhere in the city, Paris Mountain State Park offers almost instant access to a wide range of natural adventures. Designated as a state park in the 1930s, Paris Mountain is one of the city’s most popular weekend outdoor destinations for hikers, paddlers, and picnickers alike. Those with a penchant for cycling will discover limitless opportunities to enjoy scenic rides await in the town 17-time Tour de France veteran George Hincapie calls home. Whether heading for the hills on one of the countless country roads or charting an easier and flatter course along the GHS Swamp Rabbit Trail, leaving your bike at home is one mistake you don’t want to make. 

TOP: A majestic, scenic view of both Lake Jocassee and the Lake Jocassee Gorges can be found at the apex of Jumping Off Rock. ABOVE: The price of admission for this showstopper includes a hefty 2.5-mile trek and a thigh-burning 1,200-foot climb. But take heart: The sight of this 100-foot gusher tumbling down a granite grotto is enough to restore both the body and the mind.

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SEVIERVILLE, TENNESSEE Sevierville, Tennessee rests in the foothills of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and offers picturesque views, delicious southern cooking, and plenty of hospitality.

Trellised orchards at The Apple Barn & Cider Mill in Sevierville produce apples used for a variety of products.

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Downtown Sevierville is home to a variety of events each year, including the award-winning Bloomin’ BBQ & Bluegrass festival held each May.



evierville’s historic district has been the center of town since the city was founded in 1975, and is a new member of Tennessee’s Main Street program. A statue honoring Sevierville’s own Dolly Parton graces the Sevier County Courthouse lawn and is a popular photo spot for many area visitors who also browse the handful of quaint shops that encircle the city’s 1896 Beaux Arts style courthouse. Downtown’s dining options range from healthy home cooked fare at Healthy Balance Meals, to barbecue at Hickory Cabin Seasoning Company. Choose an elegant meal at Bistro 109 or belly up to the donut bar at Courthouse Donuts where patrons order up fresh cake donuts and top them any way they please. The Bees Knees serves up moonshine donuts — made with the famous Appalachian spirit — alongside cute gifts and shabby chic décor. Those looking to enjoy more than a bite of “shine,” should head to the family owned Sevier Distilling Company, set to open this summer. Downtown Sevierville’s beauty is found in the architecture, warm hospitality, and the spectacular scenery of the Great Smoky Mountains. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is America’s most visited — with twice as many visitors as the next most popular park, the Grand Canyon. Eight hundred miles of maintained trails crisscross their way through the park and offer awe-inspiring views from rocky outcrops with names like Inspiration Point. Once taller than the Rocky Mountains, the Smokies have been softened by millions of years of wear and are now covered in lush forest. Thanks to serendipitous geography and weather patterns, the Great Smoky Mountains have become a biological wonderland. Nine-hundred-seventy species previously unknown to science have been discovered in the area and rare events, such as June’s synchronous firefly mating ritual, can be seen here. One of the most popular places to visit in the Great Smoky Mountains is Cades Cove, an eleven mile loop with scenic hikes leading to the homes, churches, mills, and remnants of the farms and orchards of the cove’s early settlers.

Sunset over the orchards at The Apple Barn & Cider Mill.


Great Smoky Mountains National Park is America’s most visited.

The bronze statue of Sevierville’s own Dolly Parton is a popular photo spot.

Downtown Sevierville’s beauty is found in the architecture, warm hospitality, and the spectacular scenery of the Great Smoky Mountains. Apples were one of the most important fruits grown by these early mountain settlers, mostly because they could be used to make everything from cider to pies. The Apple Barn & Cider Mill in Sevierville honors the versatility of apples in much the same way. Their working apple orchard produces fruit for fresh cider, apple butter, stack cakes and more. On site bakers prepare and serve up to 5,000 fresh, fried apple pies on busy summer days, and candy makers craft caramel apples and old-fashioned stick candies behind huge plate glass windows. Visit the Apple Barn Winery to sample award winning fruit wines and enjoy a hearty southern dinner in the Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant, where every meal begins with a non-alcoholic Applewood Julep and a mound of fresh apple fritters. Find more southern flavors along Sevierville’s Parkway — like Dolly’s favorite food, a Slaw Dog from Frank Allen’s Market, or the famous ribs and heavenly desserts served up at Gospel singer Tony Gore’s roadside restaurant — or cruise the back roads for lesser known dining hotspots in the Great Smoky Mountains. 

For more information about the flavor of the Smoky Mountains, go to

Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant offers fresh apple fritters and Applewood Julep with every meal.

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isitors who come to this picturesque Blue Ridge Mountain town are typically looking for some serious play time. Whether the play is on stage at Barter Theatre, the state theatre of Virginia; or in the great outdoor playground of the Blue Ridge Mountains, it’s always play time somewhere in town. For those whose idea of play time includes shopping, nightlife, or live music — fun is always on tap. Main Street and the historic downtown district are filled with farm-to-table restaurants and unique shops and galleries. A craft beer brewery and winery are nearby. Starting in downtown Abingdon, the Virginia Creeper Trail owes its unusual name to the way locals referred to the old steam engines laboring up mountain grades with heavy loads of lumber and iron ore. The Virginia Creeper Trail is a delightful way to 68 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

spend a day in the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains. Recently inducted in to the Rail-to-Trail Hall of Fame, this 34-mile scenic trail is filled with charm, scenery and a few surprises. The multi-purpose trail runs along a railroad right-of-way that dates back to the 1880s. Today, it is widely considered one of the finest rails-to-trails examples in the east. The trail is used by walkers, runners, horseback riders, and bikers. In Abingdon, the western terminus of the trail, access couldn’t be any more simple. It’s hard to miss the restored locomotive on display at the trailhead on Green Spring Road right in the middle of town. The trail has very gentle uphill and downhill grades between Abingdon and its unofficial midpoint of Damascus. After that, it climbs nearly 2,000 feet to the eastern terminus on Whitetop Mountain. Needless to say, most riders prefer to start on

TOP LEFT: The Rooted in Appalachia Campaign connects farmers with local restaurants. TOP RIGHT: Bikers on the Creeper Trail can take advantage of shuttle services to White Top Station, the highest point on the trail. ABOVE LEFT: The Virginia Creeper Trail crosses 47 trestle bridges as it makes its way through private lands and national forest. ABOVE RIGHT: Sample the offerings with a flight of wines at Abingdon Vineyard and Winery, then order a bottle of your favorite to enjoy on the patio.



Whether the play is on stage at Barter Theatre — the state theatre of Virginia — or in the great outdoor playground of the Blue Ridge Mountains, it’s always play time somewhere in town. Whitetop and cruise down. In fact, bike rental shops will shuttle riders to the top for a modest fee. The easy downhill ride and awesome views of the Mount Rogers area make the Virginia Creeper Trail a family favorite. Biking or hiking the Creeper Trail is just one of many ways to play outdoors in the Abingdon area. Abingdon was recently named an official Appalachian Trail Community for its commitment to preserving America’s favorite hiking trail and welcoming through-hikers with typical southern hospitality. The Appalachian Trail through the nearby Mount Rogers National Recreation Area offers some of the most unique terrain in Virginia with wild ponies grazing on the grassy bald knobs and views that extend all the way into North Carolina. The rivers, lakes, and streams around Abingdon

offer endless opportunities for serious outdoor enthusiasts. The clear, cool waters are a favorite for anglers hoping to hook trout, bass, or walleye. Whitetop Laurel Creek runs parallel to the Creeper Trail, offering some of the best fly fishing in the state. Abingdon offers culinary adventures as well, with a food scene that is rooted in Appalachian traditions. Mountain trout, stone ground grits, heirloom apples, and pastured pork products are all on the menu at Abingdon’s restaurants. At the bi-weekly Abingdon farmers’ market, you’ll also find foraged products like the intensely garlicky ramps, morel mushrooms, or sweet paw paws. After you’ve played your heart out in the great outdoors, relax with a, relax with a craft brew at Wolf Hills Brewing Co. or sample a glass of wine on a riverside patio at Abingdon Vineyard and Winery. 

Head to the historic downtown district for indie shops and farm-to-table restaurants in a picturesque setting.

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TOP: Stinson Vineyards in White Hall by Sanjay Suchak


t would be tough to find a spot where food and drink are more celebrated and revered than they are in Charlottesville, Virginia. The Charlottesville area is known around the world for its historic attractions, like Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello and James Monroe’s Highland, but it has quietly grown into a place where the local culinary reputation rivals the historic past. With countless food, art, and music festivals, a nationally recognized

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locavore movement, the Monticello Wine Trail, and craft breweries and distilleries, the region is a food lover’s ultimate escape. Nurtured in the region’s rich earth, thriving crops of grapes, corn, hops, and apples supply local wineries, breweries, and cideries, which in turn have garnered numerous awards for their work. Countless vineyards dot the landscape in Albemarle County, giving you a front row seat to enjoy the “birthplace

NATURAL BEAUTIES your own and grab some apple cider doughnuts as well — some say, they alone, may be worth the trip. A trip to Charlottesville wouldn’t be complete without a leisurely stroll up-and-down the historic pedestrian Downtown Mall. Chefs earn loyalty here by using only the freshest ingredients. In a locale that lives by the farm-to-table culture, the butternut squash being served for dinner probably came from a local farm earlier that same day. The music scene is just as organic as the food in Downtown Charlottesville. Before or after any memorable meal, experience performances by local and national recording artists throughout the year at iconic venues, such as the Paramount Theater, the Sprint Pavilion, and the Jefferson Theater. Just down the road, the John Paul Jones Arena hosts larger shows, earning it a reputation as one of the jewels of East Coast concert venues. The great outdoors has always been the calling card of Charlottesville, whether as the resource for the local tables, or as the stirring mountain backdrop surround. Walk the Saunders-Monticello Trail on curving paths that lead to our third President’s Monticello home. And, if you feel like wandering further afield, the Blue Ridge Mountains provide world-class hiking, biking, and trailrunning opportunities (the Albemarle Tourism and Adventure Center in Crozet provides a new outpost to plan every detail in person). Share in the 100th Anniversary of the National Parks celebration this year and head for the mountains and streams. Take a drive to the Shenandoah National Park and find your trail. In the end, the choices are only limited by appetite and your sense of adventure. 

MIDDLE ROW: Albemarle CiderWorks sorting their best Pippins. Monticello South Lawn by Jeff Greenough BBQ at King Family Vineyard by Justin Ide Charlottesville’s Historic Downtown Mall by Roy Van Doorn BELOW: Outdoor dining on The Downtown Mall by Andrew Shurtleff

of American wine” along the Monticello Trail. The finest Virginia varietals are enjoyed in unique tasting rooms, which are equaled by the view shed of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The Top of the Hops Beer Fest in September offers beer lovers an opportunity to sample local craft beer with other enthusiasts from the area. The region’s apples are also celebrated with the Apple Harvest Celebration at Carter Mountain Orchard from September through October. Pick Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 71


High mountain stream.

MCCALL, The beauty of McCall, Idaho is not only found in the stunning scenery, but in its proximity to everything. The lake, the ski mountains, the hiking and biking trails, the world-class golf courses and whitewater rafting, arts and culture, dining and more are all at your fingertips. McCall is known for its small-town charm and friendly, welcoming atmosphere. Explore what McCall has to offer‌ 72 Food & Travel | Summer 2016





13th Fairway at Jug Mountain Ranch.

Lift-serviced mountain biking trails at Brundage Mountain Resort.

Rupert’s house made s’more dessert.

BY LAND Hit the trails on bike or on foot to get a close-up view of the mountain splendor. Hike to one of 300 alpine lakes, bike down premier single track or challenge yourself on technical features. Gain elevation without breaking a sweat by jumping on the Brundage Mountain Resort chairlift. Ride the lift for a simple scenic outing with the family or bring your mountain bike to access more than 20 miles of trails winding through the ski area. After a day on the mountain, refresh and relax at Smoky’s Bar and Grill, Brundage Mountain’s popular slope side restaurant. Claim your chair on the sunny patio and enjoy a cold brew from McCall’s local breweries and casual pub fare while taking in the panoramic views. If golfing is on your itinerary, you’ll be enchanted and challenged by the area’s five courses. Featuring 90 holes of stunning links set among the towering pines and rolling meadows, McCall offers plenty of scenery for both social and competitive golfers. The golf course at Jug Mountain Ranch exemplifies golf in McCall. While most courses feature a run-of-the-mill Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 73



BELOW: Mile High Marina on Payette Lake. RIGHT: Smoked Elk Carpaccio. BOTTOM: Pan Roasted King Salmon. BOTTOM RIGHT: Sailboats on Payette Lake at sunset.

Hot summer days and cool starry nights are what summer in the mountains is all about. Start with the crowned jewel of the area, Payette Lake. This pristine mountain lake offers swimming, sailing, waterskiing, jet skiing, canoeing, kayaking, stand up paddle boarding, and guided lake cruises. While you’re on the lake, keep an eye out for Sharlie the lake monster. This local legend has reportedly been spotted in the calm evening waters of Payette Lake since the late 1800s. After a day on the water, sit back and enjoy a lakeside masterpiece from the area’s burgeoning culinary scene. Dine alfresco at Rupert’s at Hotel McCall where James Beard semifinalist Chef Gary Kucy puts a focus on flavor using locally sourced ingredients. Start with the Smoked Elk Carpaccio served with huckleberry and potato crisps. Follow with the Pan Roasted King Salmon served fresh daily with red beet quinoa, roasted yellow pepper coulis, and seasonal vegetables from the local farmers’ market. Finish your experience with an authentic Idaho

s’more. This delicious ensemble features a flourless chocolate lava cake, house made marshmallow and graham cracker drizzled in chocolate syrup.

BY AIR McCall is the gateway to the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness, the largest contiguous wilderness in the Lower 48. Charter a flight to one of the area’s fly-in ranches for a hearty breakfast or simply enjoy a scenic tour over the remote wilderness below. A charter flight is also a great way to access remote areas with world-class whitewater rafting, hiking, fishing, and camping.

FRESH SNOW Sunny days don’t just apply to the summer months. Smooth corduroy and deep powder stashes define McCall in the winter. The area is host to more than 500 miles of groomed snowmobile trails, 60 kilometers of Nordic trails, endless routes for adventurous snowshoers, and three alpine ski areas. The largest, Brundage Mountain Resort, was recently voted among Ski Magazine’s Top Ten for Best Snow, Value and Family Experience. The area’s 300+ inches of average snowfall mean that whatever your winter sport, McCall will have you covered in fresh white stuff!  Explore more of what McCall has to offer or plan your getaway at

Warm days and cool starry nights are what summer in the mountains is all about.

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“warm up” hole as the opener, Jug Mountain gets right down to business with an exhilarating severe downhill tee shot from the highest point on the course to a fairway where a stream crosses near the landing zone. It is a perfect way to start a round that features plenty of elevation change and a solid challenge.




The very words “Lake Placid” conjure images of soaring mountain ranges, serene crystal lakes, and deep, unspoiled forests.

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he quaint alpine resort village of Lake Placid is nestled amidst the northern Adirondack Mountains in upstate New York and offers spectacular views of the glorious High Peaks. The region affords an opportunity to experience a natural wilderness unlike any other. A constitutionally protected Forever Wild area, The Adirondack Park spans six million acres making it the largest park and publicly protected area in the contiguous United States. Explore the quiet, wooded forests and climb the state’s tallest mountains. The extensive hiking trails of the High Peaks Wilderness in the Lake Placid region 76 Food & Travel | Summer 2016

offer opportunities for outdoor adventurers of all skill levels. For those not keen on spending an entire day on a high-elevation excursion, there are plenty of far less lofty goals with equally rewarding returns. Take a walk around the lake, or “ATL” as locals say when referring to the 2.7-mile walk that circumnavigates Mirror Lake. Fed by an underground tributary of the Chub River, from the surface the lake appears to have no inlet or outlet. Reliably calm with the exception of an occasional weather front, the pristine lake hosts the Ironman Lake Placid and recreational swimmers every summer. Winter finds Mirror Lake laden with natural ice skaters





Explore the quiet, wooded forests and climb the state’s tallest mountains. The extensive hiking trails of the High Peaks Wilderness in the Lake Placid region offer opportunities for outdoor adventurers of all skill levels. from amateur to competitive. Spectators are entertained by a number of annual skating shows held on the natural rink which also lends itself to pick-up hockey games. Lake Placid has been hosting world-class events for more than 100 years, and is home to one of only two Olympic Training Centers in the United States. The area is also the training and event home base for the Ironman Lake Placid, two marathons, the long running Summit Lacrosse tournament, and Can Am Rugby. One of the great rewards of a day spent playing hard in the Adirondacks is a leisurely

evening. A sunset stroll down charming Main Street lined with an eclectic collection of retail shops and restaurants. Indulging in the culinary decadence of local eateries which offer traditional American cuisine, sustainable organic foods, and barbecue; from family-friendly dining to gourmet meals, the diverse selection is certain to satisfy. There’s something in the Lake Placid air which evokes a healthy vibe, alive with adventure, recreation, arts, and amenities, Lake Placid offers travelers an opportunity to invent their own perfect day. 

OPPOSITE PAGE TOP: Paddle to your heart’s desire on Mirror Lake where it’s just you, the lake, and the mountains. TOP RIGHT: After working up what seems to be an insatiable appetite, grab a bite from one of the many local eateries. LOWER: Browse the various unique shops and eateries that Main Street has to offer, and pick out the perfect-for-you treasure. LOWER RIGHT: Indulge in the perfect combination of delicious food, signature drinks, and friendly laughter at a cozy lodge. THIS PAGE TOP LEFT: Spend time on the summit of one of many peaks in the Lake Placid Region’s many peaks. ABOVE LEFT: Cuisine that is as delicious as it is aesthetically pleasing. ABOVE: The perfect meal awaits. Sit back, relax, and enjoy great food and even better views. LEFT: A short hike up Cobble Hill is well worth the views that await, not to mention it’s the perfect spot to unwind.

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ABOVE: Hike to the Coopers Rock overlook, a 1,200’ drop to the mile-wide gorge below. RIGHT: Stop in to the Brew Pub microbrewery for a taste of local ales. CENTER: Enjoy a wine tasting and tour at Forks-of-Cheat Winery. FAR RIGHT: The Morgantown Brewing Company is West Virginia’s oldest operating brewery.

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The Greater Morga ntown area is an amazing place for motorcycling enthusiasts to gear down and unwind , with a wide variety of exciting terrain and wonderful roa ds for any skill lev el.


reater Morgantown is an extraordinary land of natural beauty; high country and mirrored lakes are gifts, referred to by locals as “Almost Heaven.” Countless customs and traditions passed down over generations are a vibrant part of daily life and make Mountaineer Country an epicenter of Appalachian culture that is reflected in handcrafted artwork, locally grown foods, music, and celebrations! There’s no better way to get a true taste of Mountaineer “Spirit!” than to take a day and sample the local wines and the ports fortified with moonshine at Forks-of-Cheat Winery. For craft brews, stop by West Virginia’s oldest operating microbrewery, Morgantown Brewing Company, or the taproom of Chestnut Brew Works in the historic South Park area of Morgantown. You’re bound to run into friendly people, eager to share their stories and learn about yours over the rim of a glass! You’ll find a diverse and imaginative cuisine at Morgantown’s fine dining restaurants. Stefano’s is family owned and specializes in Old World Italian and American cuisine with recipes that have been handed down through generations. Local Chef Marion Ohlinger focuses on farm-to-table fare and Appalachian flair Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 81


TOP: Join 40,000 hawgs for Mountainfest, Morgantown’s annual motorcycle rally in July. ABOVE: Dine waterside at one of many eateries along the Monongahela River. RIGHT: Uncover hidden treasures at quality antique dealers in Greater Morgantown. BELOW: Get your fill of buckwheat cakes, sausage, firemen’s parades and the midway at the annual four-day Preston County Buckwheat Festival, beginning the last Thursday in September.

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at his new restaurant, Hill and Hollow, located in the renovated Seneca Glass factory. Dining alfresco by the mighty Monongahela River is a must and the 19-mile rail trail that winds along the river’s banks will lead you to local eateries that offer waterside dining, like Table 9, Terra Café, Oliverio’s Ristorante, and Mountain State Brewing Company. Just off the beaten path of I-68’s Bruceton Mills exit is Little Sandy’s Restaurant. With simple country cooking, like homemade biscuits and gravy, it’s one of the best places to sample the local specialty, buckwheat cakes and sausage. Two good reasons to visit Aurora: Cathedral State Park where you’ll find an ancient hemlock forest of majestic proportions, and Melanie’s, “home of good food, friendly smiles, and low prices.” Downtown Morgantown pulses with the beat of countless live performances and talented DJs. Because the downtown is compact, club hoppers can stroll streets that teem with activity all night long. Venture out of the city and you’ll find honkytonks, beer gardens, and family-run taverns. While Crockett’s is a legend to any student who ever visited or attended West Virginia University, it’s Mario’s Fishbowl that holds so many memories: 60 years of reflections are written on the receipts, napkins, and business cards that layer the walls and “the coldest beer in Morgantown is served in “Weiss” goblets, or “fishbowls.” Annual festivals are a great chance to see us as we really are: the last weekend in July draws more than 60,000 riders to MountainFest motorcycle rally. Gear down and unwind on our country roads; our incredible twists and turns have been compared to those in Europe. Fall brings the WV Wine and Jazz Festival, a stage for the state’s award-winning wines. More than 100,000 visitors make the pilgrimage to nearby Kingwood for the unique local flavor of buckwheat cakes and sausage during the Preston County Buckwheat Festival. Autumn drives through dazzling foliage displays pair up handily with September events. Breathtaking outdoor adventure, local wine and local bands give this picturesque university city a laid back vibe. Take time to wind down in small art galleries, antique shops, intimate little eateries by the river and year ‘round friendly festivals. You’ll run out of time long before you run out of things to do in Greater Morgantown. 


Venture out of the city and you’ll find honkytonks, beer gardens, and family-run taverns.


PITTSBURGH, PENNSYLVANIA Delicious dishes served by Butcher and the Rye’s Chef Richard DeShantz.


FOOD SCENE ON FIRE Bon Appétit didn’t have to eat its words when it proclaimed Pittsburgh as the “Next Big Food Town” a few years back. Zagat, the go-to source for restaurant reviews, just named Pittsburgh the “No. 1 Food City” in the United States. Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 83

TASTEFUL TOWNS The Pittsburgh food scene is on the rise, just like the delicious Mancini’s bread used in the classic Primanti Brother’s sandwich. Today, the city boasts 300+ restaurants all within easy walking distance of downtown hotels.

TOP: Pittsburgh’s 90 unique neighborhoods offer eclectic culinary choices sure please every palate. ABOVE RIGHT: Patrons enjoy a spectacular blend of flavors at Emporio A Meatball Joint.

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landmark by the Pittsburgh History and Landmarks Foundation. Pittsburgh’s appetite for Old-World fare — those pierogies, kielbasa, and cabbage rolls introduced by Easter European immigrants — is still going strong. In fact, the Pierogi Festival and Picklesburgh — a dilly of a pickle festival in honor of Pittsburgh’s own H.J. Heinz — are the city’s newest annual food festivals. Foodies and locals alike love the Strip District. “The Strip” as the neighborhood is called, is all grit and pure Pittsburgh. With its ethnic grocers, sidewalk vendors, and string of small shops, the Strip is a scene seven days a week. Venture into the countryside, and find culinary nirvana in a AAA FiveDiamond and Forbes Five-Star restaurant, Lautrec. The libation scene in the ‘Burgh has a long history — after all, Western Pennsylvania is the birthplace of the Whiskey Rebellion. Named for the man who sparked the battle, Wigle Whiskey puts on cocktail classes and offers tours of the distillery and barrelhouse. Cheers to that and Pittsburgh’s smoking hot food scene. 



hat’s the dish on Pittsburgh’s new culinary scene? Try chef-driven fare, new restaurant concepts, and a cutting-edge beverage scene. Yes, this isn’t your father’s Pittsburgh any more. Consider these tasty news morsels: Gaucho Parilla Argentina, located in Pittsburgh’s Strip District, was coined one of the top places to eat in the U.S. for 2015 by Yelp. Food & Wine magazine named Chef Justin Severino of Cure and Morcilla the best new chef of the mid-Atlantic region. Playboy magazine rated two Pittsburgh diners as having the best breakfast in the Northeast. The crepe-style pancakes served at Pamela’s Diner have received presidential approval, and Coca Café is noted as having “an artsy and adorable” 20-seat dining room with a foodie-focused menu. Even the food trucks are getting their share of notoriety. The Pittsburgh Taco Truck was named among the great spots in the nation for Mexican food, according to the Business Insider. The Pittsburgh food scene is on the rise, just like the delicious Mancini’s bread used in the classic Primanti Brother’s sandwich. Today, the city boasts 300+ restaurants all within easy walking distance of downtown hotels. Among the many newer Downtown eateries gaining attention all their own are Poros, Bakersfield, Butcher and the Rye, takö, Ten Penny, Revel + Roost, Emporio: A Meatball Joint, and Pork and Beans. Pittsburgh celebrates its 200th birthday in 2016, and The City of Bridges hasn’t forgotten its roots. A visit to the Original Oyster House will take visitors back 144 years to Pittsburgh’s oldest bar and restaurant. Located in the heart of Market Square, the unique tavern has been designated a historic




The cuisine of Jackson reflects such a distinct mélange of ingredients and traditions that visitors from other regions of the U.S. may feel as if they’ve arrived on foreign land. Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 85


86 Food & Travel | Summer 2016



ackson is the “City with Soul” luring food lovers from around the world with menus populated with regional favorites — smothered oxtails, smothered pork chops, fried chicken, beef tips, freshly picked greens, macaroni and cheese, yams and cobblers. Most recently noted James Beard Foundation 2016 American Classic, Bully’s Restaurant was built by Tyrone Bully and his father with their own hands. Today Tyrone and his wife operate Bully’s, and you will always find Mr. Bully behind the counter with his white bouffant cap and a smile. The soul food dishes are made from scratch with fresh ingredients. No stranger to uniquely established restaurants, Chef Jesse Houston has been named a semifinalist by the James Beard Foundation for “Best Chef: South.” He started at Parlor Market, but has since ventured out and established Saltine Oyster Bar in the Fondren neighborhood. His style of cooking is creative and playful such as his crowd pleasing variations of Ramen Noodles. Houston’s love of craft beer coupled with his motivation to offer his patrons a cutting-edge craft beer selection led to a partnership with local Lucky Town Brewing Company. The full Saltine experience is not complete without one of their signature deserts from the bakery — the Banoffee Pie is highly recommended!



WHERE THE LOCALS EAT AND DRINK IN JACKSON, MISSISSIPPI The Palette Cafe at the Mississippi Museum of Art run by Chef Nick Wallace who has coupled the influence of his grandmother’s upbringing as the matriarch of the family farm with French technique creating amazingly elegant dishes using fresh ingredients aligning with his farm-to-table values. Chef Nick hosted a soulful James Beard dinner on April 13th, reflecting cherished recipes passed down by Southern mothers and grandmothers. Chef Owner Mitchell Moore’s Campbell’s Bakery is located in the Fondren Neighborhood. The bakery has been around since 1962, but Moore took over as it was closing in 2011. Campbell’s Bakery has one key constant that makes it distinct — everything served in the bakery is made fresh, from scratch every day. First timers often receive a complimentary iced teacake! An all-time favorite, Brent’s Drugs has received notoriety for its prime role in the movie “The Help” by Kathryn Stockett. Recently featured in Vogue magazine as one of the 7 Coolest Diners in America and listed on Delish’s 20 Best Diners in America, the authentic diner’s retro décor invites patrons to reminisce and enjoy a signature float. Truly a mainstay, Big Apple Inn has made its home in the historic Farish Street District since 1939. Geno Lee is a fourth-generation owner and the great grandson of a Mexican immigrant and a son of a Freedom Rider. Surrounded by memories of a booming district, it still stands offering authentic favorites. The smoked sausage sandwiches affectionately known as “smokes” and pig ears have been a favorite, along with tamales, and bologna fried just right. Walker’s Drive-In and CAET are both owned by Chef Derek Emerson, a former James Beard semifinalist in 2014. Walker’s is a nostalgic 1950’s diner in the heart of Fondren. Emerson and wife/partner Jennifer, jumped at the chance to own the regional favorite. Walker’s offers an upscale experience in a casual atmosphere, and also features local ingredients. CAET is the newest offering from the husband and wife team. CAET features a small plates menu along with a full bar featuring over 30 by-the-glass fine wine selections each night. Also located in the historic Fondren District, Babulu’s dishes are chef-inspired and prepared daily with a focus towards sourcing natural, hormone free fresh produce. Always the perfect starter, Babulu’s fresh guacamole is made table-side using Haas avocado, sun-dried tomato, red & green onions, kosher salt, cilantro, and lime juice. 

An all-time favorite, Brent’s Drugs has received notoriety for its prime role in the movie “The Help” by Kathryn Stockett.

Summer 2016 | Food & Travel 87

Photo by Laura Davis. Visit her blog

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PEI Atlantic Ocean

If you’re ready for stunning views, amazing shows on and off the stage and the freshest food from land and sea, Canada’s Food Island is ready for you. Book now at or call 1-877-445-4548. Air Canada offers award-winning service and the most flights to Charlottetown, all year long with daily departures via Toronto, Montreal, and Halifax, and this summer via Ottawa. Book now at


Discover Torrance, an uncrowded, sun-kissed beach town where the brews are craftier, the locals are happier, and the cuisine is tastier.

Food & Travel® Magazine Summer 2016  

Secret Spaces & Shoreline Serenity Natural Beauties Tasteful Towns ISLAND HIDEAWAYS: St. Vincent | Jamaica | Mount Desert Island DISCOVER: F...

Food & Travel® Magazine Summer 2016  

Secret Spaces & Shoreline Serenity Natural Beauties Tasteful Towns ISLAND HIDEAWAYS: St. Vincent | Jamaica | Mount Desert Island DISCOVER: F...