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SUMMER 2017

PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF RON MIKULAK BUSINESS MANAGER BRIANA MORGAN PHOTOGRAPHERS DAN DRY ANDY HYSLOP COLUMNISTS CARLA CARLTON JAY FORMAN ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS ROGER BAYLOR GREG GAPSIS EMILY HAYDEN GRAPHIC DESIGN & PRODUCTION ED ROTHER COPY EDITORS CARLA CARLTON STEVE COOMES SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES BRIANA MORGAN KAREN SHANE ANNETTE B. WHITE

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville, KY 40201 502.509.EATS (3287)

www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine @FoodAndDining

For Advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS)

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville, KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

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ON THE COVER Red Hog’s goat cheese pizza with spring peas and asparagus (page 22) Photo by Dan Dry


contents SUMMER 2017 | VOLUME 56

RESTAURANT GUIDE

44 | 82 |

Dining Guide Our comprehensive listing of over 1,200 area restaurants complete with reviews.

Maps (RESTAURANT LOCATOR) Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.

FEATURES

22 |

Profile: Red Hog Artisan Butcher + Restaurant Greg Gapsis investigates how Red Hog sets high standards in reaching for an ideal of humane, sustainable local meats.

34 |

Profile: From Canton to Szechuan China’s culinary heritage is as diverse as its landscape. Roger Baylor investigates how Jasmine and Oriental House offer Louisville diners authentic Chinese regional cuisine.

COLUMNS Starters

6| 12 |

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes in the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

HUMOR | My First Mardi Gras NOLA restaurant owner Jay Forman provides insight into what a small business owner can expect when doing business in the heart of Mardi Gras festivities.

Food

14 |

FARMERS’ MARKET GUIDE | Buy Local to Eat Local

18 |

COOKING WITH RON | Watermelon—the South’s Premier Fruit

30 |

Emily Hayden gives the lowdown on the area’s farmers’ markets and provides a chart showing when to expect your summer favorites to arrive freshly picked.

Some ideas for incorporating watermelon into more of your summer eating.

EASY ENTERTAINING | Bring It To the Party Tim and Lori Laird offer recipes and give excellent advice on how to be a host’s favorite potluck dinner guest.

Liquids

28 |

SPIRITS | Bourbon Finds Its Distaff Side Carla Carlton chronicles the rise of the first female master distiller, Pam Heilmann. www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017

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starters | comings & goings

comings & goings

BY RON MIKULAK

Just following the numbers makes clear that Louisville’s restaurant scene continues to thrive. In this rundown, we’re listing 27 new dining choices — 16 new businesses and 11 new locations for existing companies — while removing only 11 listings, three of which are multiple location businesses closing one location each. Diners who like to check out new places have nearly unlimited choices: stylish wine and cocktail bars offering small plates; ethnic choices from Vietnamese to Indian to Nepalese to Cajun; pizza places and sushi and vegetarian — and the options continue to grow. In our efforts to keep our fingers on the pulse of the restaurant scene, we are tracking 26 restaurants (11 will be expansions of current businesses) that we can now confirm are actively working to open by the end of the summer or early fall. In short, we’re seeing yet another restaurant growth surge that could total as many as 50 new operations opening in a six month window. Among those future listings are new concepts by familiar names: Whiskey Dry, a whiskey bar and restaurant in 4th Street Live by Edward Lee (610 Magnolia, Milkwood) and Butchertown Pizza Hall by Allan Rosenberg (formerly of Papalino’s Pizza, Fontleroy’s and Anoosh Bistro). And we are rooting for the resurrection of two business names that have been absent for a bit: Kaelin’s return to its original Newburg Rd. home, and El Camino’s reincarnation in Germantown. But those are in the future. Let’s return to the present — we’re hungry now.

NEW TABLES

Wine enthusiasts will have a new place to expand their oenological knowledge and experience in Cuvée Wine Table, open at 3598 Springhurst Blvd., in the former Papalino’s space. The new restaurant is a project of Master Sommelier Scott Harper and his partners in the Bristol Bar & Grille. Harper plans to serve up to 55 wines by the glass, focused on “value” wines poured at moderate prices. (Harper thinks the most expensive glass will run about $25.) Daily happy hours will run from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Executive chef Edoardo Bacci, last at Brasserie Provence, has developed a seasonal menu combining charcuterie, cheeses, salads, snacks, small plates, flatbreads and sandwiches. If sipping cocktails in an urbane setting is more your style, then our fair city’s other Master Sommelier, Brett Davis, is providing a fine experience at Red Herring Cocktail Lounge and Kitchen in Clifton, at 1757 Frankfort Ave. Davis and his partner Mo Deljoo have renovated the Hilltop Theater building into a sleek modern design that plays well with the interior’s original architectural details. Jacob Coronado, formerly chef at 8UP, created a variety of small plates and handheld foods to complement the cocktail program put together by Clay Livingston, also an 8UP alum. (The wine list will be overseen by Davis, of course.) Red Herring’s main bar is overlooked by an upper mezzanine and a shady side patio. Also new in the Clifton area at 2319 Brownsboro Rd. is Chik’n & Mi, which specializes in Asian-style fried chicken tossed in tapioca and rice flour before frying. Jason McCollum, who has cooked at Momofuku in New York City and operates the restaurant with his Laotian wife and chef, Aenith, offers an eclectic menu drawn from a variety of Asian cuisines, including Japanese and Lao. Out in Anchorage, Tom Edwards is finally opening Mozza Pi, his long-anticipated pizza place alongside his Louismill flour milling, bak-

ery and baking school business at 12102 La Grange Rd. He first used a wood-burning oven to bake pizzas on his food truck, and he tows it to off-premise events. But Edwards has built a larger wood-burning oven inside Mozza Pi, which he uses to bake his interpretation of Neapolitan-style pizza. At this point, we should add that two other restaurants whose pending openings we mentioned last issue — but which ran into delays — are now serving. Geoffrey Heyde converted the space at 2244 Frankfort Ave., home for a decade to Basa Modern Vietnamese, into his own American-style restaurant, Fork & Barrel. New York restaurateur and Italy native, Rocco Cadolini, took two years to convert the former Butterfly Garden Café at 1327 Bardstown Rd. into his ROC Restaurant. Cadolini is serving classic and modern Italian cuisine. Several other ethnic restaurants are joining the scene around town. Come June, Pho Café will serve, of course, pho alongside other casual Vietnamese dishes at 1704 Bardstown Rd. Chef Tuan Phan, who cooked for 18 years at Asiatique, is chef-owner, running his first concept in the space vacated this past winter by Tom + Chee. Further out in Buechel, at 3825 Bardstown Rd., Katmandu Kitchen & Bar is serving Nepalese cuisine. In St. Matthews, the Indian restaurant Tikka House now occupies much of the space long home to Majid’s at 3930 Chenoweth Sq. Another pizza spot, Firenza Pizza, has opened in the Shops at Forest Springs development at 12406 La Grange Rd. Out in Middletown, owners of Jasmine Chinese have taken over a neighboring space and opened Tsubaki Sushi & Bar next door, at 13825 English Villa Dr. (Insider tip: You can eat there or have sushi made there served next door at Jasmine.) Back in town, an American ethnic cuisine, Cajun and Creole, will be found at Geechee Bayou, 1161 S. Second St., in the space that was briefly Slice deli. Downtown at 434 W. Jefferson St., Pita Pit will Continued on page 8

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starters | comings & goings provide Mediterranean/Middle Eastern lunch options. Two new bars and grills join the mix. At the Post Sports Bar & Grill has opened at 3701 Hopewell Rd. In the heart of St. Matthews, Sullivan’s Tap House is drawing drafts and serving upscale bar food in the former Bluegrass Brewing Co. building at 3929 Shelbyville Rd. For those desiring lighter lunch fare, Lexington-based Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen has opened at 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., and a vegan spot, Morels Café, has opened at 619 Baxter Ave. In Prospect, Kristin Fults, former owner of the Meridian Café, has opened Melrose Café at 13206 Hwy. 42, serving modern American dishes at breakfast, lunch and brunch. And the last new business to mention is Delectabites Bakery Café at 8683 Preston Hwy., which offers cakes and cake bites, lunch and breakfast sandwiches and scratch soups. Several businesses have deemed the present environment ripe for expansion. Our count of 11 such businesses is a bit skewed, since Urban Bread Company accounts for three of the 11 lines in our listings. This ambitious company, originally called Hub Roti, specializes in wrapped sandwiches that are taco-gyro hybrids, but based on roti, an Indian flatbread, and topped eclectically, to say the least. In addition to moving to a larger central bakery and restaurant at 1000 Auction Way in Jeffersonville, from its 716 E.Tenth St. location in Jeffersonville, Urban Bread Co. has also taken over the kitchen at Flat 12 Bierworks at 130 W. Riverside Dr. in Jeffersonville, becoming the food supplier for the newly opened second outlet for Match Cigar Bar at 151 E. Main St. in New Albany. Those who like chicken dinners can find more of them at Rooster’s fifth outlet at 5338 Bardstown Rd.; at Dixie Chicken’s third store at 8118 Preston Hwy.; and at the second King’s Chicken outlet at 5603 Preston Hwy.

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The twelfth Bearno’s Pizza store has opened in Middletown, at 13829 English Villa Dr., and the third FireFresh BBQ is now smoking in Mall St. Matthews, 5000 Shelbyville Rd. Two Mexican restaurants have added second stores. The newest Fiesta Time Amigos is at 135 S. English Station Rd. and another Las Gorditas has opened at 8402 Hudson Ln. And New Albany has a new Sweet Frog yogurt store at 302 Pearl St.

CLOSINGS

The most notable of the restaurants that have closed since F&D’s last issue is Barbara Lee’s Kitchen, 2410 Brownsboro Rd.The 24-hour homestyle diner had been a long-time fixture in the local restaurant scene, garnering a passel of dedicated regulars and becoming the go-to place to experience an empathetic cross-section of Louisville society. Barbara Lee’s peculiar contributions to the local dining scene will be missed. Two Chinese restaurants have closed recently: Empress of China, at 2249 Hikes Ln., and Legend of China at 9415 Norton Commons Blvd. Two other ethnic restaurants that have ceased operation are Shandaar Indian Restaurant at 1801 Priority Wat, and Burning Bush Grille & Mediterranean Café at 13206 Hwy. 42 in Prospect. Three other restaurants closing include Johnny V’s pizzeria at 10509 Watterson Trail, Downhome Cafeteria at 2605 Rockford Ln., and Healthy Eating, in the Heyburn building at 332 W. Broadway. Three multiple-location businesses closing single outlets include (the reportedly temporary shutdown) Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse location at 115 S. Fourth St. The extensive demolition and reconstruction of the Kentucky International Convention Center has created such Continued on page 11


comings & goings | starters

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feature | comings & goings

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comings & goings | feature upheaval in traffic patterns on Fourth and Market Streets that business, especially the noontime walk-in crowd, plummeted. Dinner time traffic also seemed eager to get past the construction site or avoid it entirely. Z’s original location at 101 Whittington Pkwy. remains in operation. Brownie’s The Shed Bar & Grille has closed its outlet at 1578 Bardstown Rd., but its two other locations, at 237 Whittington Pkwy. and 826 W. Main St. in New Albany continue to pour. The Mellow Mushroom pizza chain has closed its store at 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., but continues to sling pies in the Highlands and in St. Matthews.

CHANGES

And finally, a few businesses have decided to change, either in focus, ownership, or location. One of the most conspicuously upscale eating places in town, Corbett’s: An American Place, 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd. at Old Brownsboro Crossing, has scaled back the formality by dedicating half its dining room to casual dining. There are large comfortable chairs, small tables, sofas and big pillows that give the space an almost den-like feel. Owner Dean Corbett is calling this renovation “Jack’s

Lounge,” mirroring the low-key eating and drinking space he owns in St. Matthews. Corbett has concluded that the era of white tablecloth fine dining is diminishing, but if you want that, turn left, not right, as you come into the door.There, you’ll find Corbett’s is still offering a formal dining experience if you choose it. Two other notable changes have been made in ownership, if not in style. Clay Wallace has sold Café Lou Lou, 106 Sears Ave., to Jared Matthews, who plans few changes aside from adding more Cajunthemed items and lighter fare to the menu. Louis’s The Ton, the quirky little bar in Butchertown at 1601 Story Ave., has been sold to Isaiah Hoagland, who also owns Linden Hill bed and breakfast, an historic property he is renovating nearby. Hoagland says that he intends to spruce the interior up a bit but otherwise keep the character of the idiosyncratic neighborhood bar. And finally, Shark’s Fish & Chicken has moved from 2001 S. Seventh St. to 3099 Breckenridge Ln., and has changed its name to Shark’s Seafood, to clarify its new menu emphasis. Dasha Barbour’s Southern Bistro has moved from 3825 Bardstown Rd. to 2217 Steier Ln., in Buechel. F&D

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starters | humor

Our First Mardi Gras And how to make money off weak bladders

E

arlier this year my wife and I decided that, since we didn’t have enough problems, we should open yet another bakery. But, unlike our other locations, this one would have a secret ingredient to boost the bottom line — booze! We lucked into a prime location in the Garden District on St. Charles

Avenue in New Orleans. Being the only writer on the Food & Dining staff not actually based in Louisville, some context might be helpful. Down here we have this thing called Mardi Gras, which is sort of like our version of the Derby. And as the Derby has its buildup of events like Thunder Over Louisville, Pegasus Parade, etc., Mardi Gras builds to a similar crescendo over the three-week period leading up to Fat Tuesday. BY JAY FORMAN

Why, you might ask, is this relevant? Because our new bakery location happens to be smack-dab on the parade route, where giant papiermaché heads wobble by just 20 feet from our plate glass windows. Imagine the chaos of opening a new restaurant in the middle of the Derby buildup, and you will get a sense of what it was like opening up here. What follows is a hazy remembrance of our first Carnival. No learning curve — just extended hours and the sort of hallucinatoryrunning-on-fumes more akin to bars than to bakeries. For the first time, Mardi Gras wasn’t about fun. It was about business. And I found that I really, really liked it that way.

Weekend #1 Parades roll tonight. It is the first weekend and we don’t expect heavy crowds — perfect for testing our processes. We close briefly during service to transform a 35-seat bakery into a kickass liquor and grilled-cheese-slingin’ profit machine. Inside we partition off the dining room with a long bar to keep the drunkards from wandering around and raiding our walk-in beer cooler. Outside the port-a-potties are staged around the side of the building. Visitors to New Orleans, be forewarned — despite the bacchanalian quantities of alcohol consumed, the city somehow neglects to provide port-o-lets for public use.The result is a giant, ticking, wet time bomb that has turned into a cottage industry. It is common to see residents sit on their porches shouting out that bathrooms are available for a $5 fee to random strangers. We are not above such profiteering. We dispatch our largest, meanest dishwasher to be port-o-let bouncer. He sets up shop with a bottle of sanitizer and a red cup full of Fireball. Our hired gun bartender arrives with two black eyes and face lacerations. As we are mixing 20-gallon batches of rum punch, I can’t help but ask about this. He tells me he hustles as an Uber driver on the side and he totaled his car the night before but “doesn’t remember what happened.” He then asks me how to apply for an open delivery driver position we have advertised. I politely redirect him to our manager and pretend to go look for potato chips. 12 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

People need to pee! We unlatch the port-o-lets and start charging away. Our dishwasher Nicky is perfect for the job — people are crazy and all trying to talk their way into a freebie. Nicky can’t be swayed; he is all stone-cold business out there, smoking a Camel and sipping on Fireball while telling pregnant ladies they gotta wait in line like everyone else. He also guards the hand sanitizer, dispensing it by the squirt, as the bottles we put inside the port-o-lets are stolen within 15 minutes. Crowds throng the bakery and the line spills into the street. We are selling king cake by the slice, red beans and rice by the bowl, and cold beers by the bucket. Policemen show up. We make them coffee and tell them they can use our actual in-house toilet, a very special privilege. Word spreads and our business quickly becomes a police substation. Nicky becomes slightly more discreet about smoking pot — but not much. Face-painting clowns try to set up on our front steps and I shoo them away. My seven-year-old daughter arrives and asks me to put her on my shoulders for every float. As I walk out to the route, David the Mangled Rent-a-Bartender offers police free Jameson shots in their already free coffee, which they politely decline. I tell him, “please don’t do that ever again.” We close at 11, having made basically four times our daily retail sales. Not a bad start. We huddle up, adjust our pars and tweak the back bar layout. This is a piece of cake.

Weekend #2 The second week is when things get heavy. Multiple parades take place each night, supplemented with back-toback day parades on Saturday and Sunday. St. Charles Avenue fills up early with people lining the streets with ladders and folding chairs galore. Sunburnt Cajuns appear with a gooseneck trailer laden with two of their own port-a-potties and plop them opposite us. Ugly stares are exchanged as they try to siphon off our customers. As we load the hot boxes for service, faces press against the plate glass window like zombies hungering for grilled cheese in lieu of brains. We open the doors, and we are crushed for the next four days. Twenty-gallon batches of Bloody Marys are emptied by the ladle, dressed with pickled okra and


humor | starters

upsold with extra vodka shots. Rum punch should be dispensed with a firehose, so quickly doth it flow. Face-painting clowns again appear and I run them off. Nicky has by now figured out how to make a little something on the side by selling tickets directly to the porta-potty folks, but I budgeted for this — we’ve already covered the permit and rental, so everything else is gravy. White wine fades into red and than into Jaeger as the day turns dark. My daughter is put to work slapping cheese on sandwiches between parades, saving us labor costs. She loves it. I buy her a crappy toy from a street cart and our cash box overfloweth. I ride my bike home after close, wads of cash stuffed down my shorts, praying I don’t get hit by a car and cracked opened up like a Tony Montana piñata.

Fat Tuesday Fat Tuesday dawns bright and clear.Today we’re not doing a bakeoff — instead we are selling all the inventory remaining on hand. In any case, the delivery drivers could never penetrate the throng in the streets. It is like a pastry and liquor clearance sale — everything must go! Fireball and Jameson all around. Many, many friends of ownership and employees both show up and make use of the in-house loo. Everyone is dressed up — we have the Wonderpets standing next to giant Grateful Dead Dancing Bears and a couple of goth Elmos. I am resplendent in my mullet wig and sleeveless denim jacket. I am an owner, and have to look somewhat respectable. Some people think I am Garth from Wayne’s World while others assume Joe Dirt. We set up chairs out front for family and friends, and a play area is carved out behind the back bar where toddlers can climb on unsafe ziggurats of cased beer. The face-painting clowns show up again, and this time I make peace with them — my daughter even has butterflies painted on her cheeks to seal the deal. It is a beautiful morning and the parades roll past – this time on the far side of the avenue, which gives us some breathing room out front. We pass the morning in a blissful haze — as we would for any other Mardi Gras, except for this time we are making money on it. It changes everything and it changes nothing. I’m not quite sure sometimes how I ended up in the restaurant business, but I know now that times like these are a big reason why. Now it is off to Mexico to blow some cash and plan for next year. I can’t wait to do this again. F&D www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 13


FOOD \ farmers’ markets

farm table

from to

via the city

With fresh ingredients on consumers’ minds, local farmers’ markets continue to grow in numbers and popularity.

BY EMILY HAYDEN | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

/

ne of the few things that get me out of bed on Saturday mornings is knowing there are several

farmers’ markets where I can go to buy freshly picked local fruits and vegetables I crave, while maybe discovering something new I haven’t tried before and getting advice on how to prepare it. But it’s equally motivating to know I’ll get to schmooze with neighbors while getting a cooked-to-order omelet, bowl of grits or biscuit-and-egg sandwich I can eat while shopping. The number of farmers’ markets in the Louisville and Southern Indiana area has grown to nearly forty in recent years. (At the end of this story, we list all those markets, their locations, times of operation and when you can expect local fruits and vegetables to be in season.) I can drive to the Jeffersontown farmers’ market and get honey from a kind gentleman who occasionally brings chirping chicks in a little cage. Or I can make the 10-minute drive to the Bardstown Road market to grab some homemade soap, berries in season, or chicken, pork or lamb. Most protein is usually sold frozen, but farmers also bring freshly processed chickens every now and then.

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With so many markets open, I struggle to pick a favorite. There are a few big markets with dozens of vendors, such as the sprawling one at Beargrass Christian Church on Shelbyville Road and Browns Lane, the tree-shaded one at Douglass Boulevard Christian Church on Bardstown Road, or the market in downtown New Albany on Market Street. Some sport extensive awnings over display tables where craft vendors sell soaps, jewelry and other handmade items, alongside farmers selling seasonal produce, eggs and meat. These larger markets also attract food trucks, booths cooking breakfast and lunch items, and bakers of bread, muffins and cookies. The atmosphere is more casual at any of several smaller neighborhood markets, such as in Phoenix Hill, Beechmont, Crescent Hill or at the Temple on Lime Kiln Lane. These are true “tailgate markets,” where most farmers sell what they picked the night before from the backs of their trucks. The explosion of farmers’ markets fits in well with the “Keep Louisville Weird” campaign that

promotes small businesses. By purchasing food at a farmers’ market, you buy truly local and fresh food. Vendors at local markets are required to sell only what they grow or raise, though some bring items from neighboring farmers who can’t make the trip themselves. By connecting with your community at a farmers’ market, you learn more about how small farmers grow their crops and the challenges they face in bringing them to market. Prices typically exceed the cost of edibles at supermarkets, but the quality is typically superior to supermarkets. Farmers are most always happy to discuss how their prices reflect the cost of producing high-quality food. It gives them a chance to tell their stories firsthand. Whether you stick to the same farmers’ market each time or try a new one every weekend, you are sure to have an enjoyable time. How often can you say that about grocery shopping? The only way you could go wrong is to not go at all. Check the following chart to see which markets are close to you and which could be worth a little travel just to try something new.


farmers’ markets \ FOOD

Grace Kennedy with Field Day Family Farm greets customers at the St. Matthews Farmers’ Market.

LOUISVILLE ••••••••••••••••• Bardstown Road Farmers’ Market (YearRound) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon (April Dec.), 10 a.m. - noon (Jan. - March), 1722 Bardstown Road (Presbyterian Church parking lot), 945-9161. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Beechmont Open Air Market (Mid June Mid Sept.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 4574 S. Third Street (Beechmont Baptist Church parking lot), 367-2652. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Crescent Hill Farmers’ Market (Mid May Oct.) Friday 7 a.m. - 10 a.m., 201 S.

Peterson Avenue (Crescent Hill United Methodist Church parking lot), 968-3693. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Douglass Loop Farmers’ Market (Early March - Mid Dec.) Saturday 10 a.m. - 2 p.m., 2005 Douglass Boulevard (Douglass Boulevard Christian Church), 452-2629. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Gray Street Farmers’ Market (Mid May Oct.) Thursday 10:30 a.m. - 1:30 p.m., 400 E. Gray Street, 852-8781. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Growing Forward Refugee Farmers’Market (June - Sept.) Sunday 10 a.m. - noon, 1938 Alfresco Place, 456-6394. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Jeffersontown Farmers’ Market (YearRound) Saturday 8 a.m. – noon (Early May

- Mid Oct.), 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. (Mid Oct. Early May), 10434 Watterson Trail (Under the Jeffersontown Pavilion), 267-8333. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Louismill Anchorage Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Oct.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 12102 La Grange Road, 494-7012. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Louisville Farmers’ Market 1 (Mid May Sept.) Saturday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m., 7624 Shelbyville Road, 272-0077. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Louisville Farmers’ Market 2 (Mid May Sept.) Thursday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 1301 Herr Lane, 272-0077. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Lyndon Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Mid Dec.) Thursday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 7515 Westport Road, 968-4559. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Mazzoli Farmers’ Market (April - Oct.) Wednesday 10 a.m. - 1 p.m., 600 Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Place. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Middletown Farmers’ Market (June Sept.) Friday 6 p.m. - 9 p.m. & Saturday 10 a.m. - 4 p.m., 11711 Main Street (Middletown), (Village Square Shopping Center parking lot). ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Ninth Street Farmers’ Market (April Dec.) Wednesday through Sunday 10 a.m.6 p.m., Ninth Street & Chestnut Street (YMCA Quinn Chapel church parking lot), 778-4523. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Norton Commons Farmers’ Market (June - Mid Sept.) Wednesday 4:30 p.m. - 6:30 p.m.,10712 Meeting Street. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Old Louisville FarmWorks Market (June Oct.) Wednesday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 1143 S. Third Street (Walnut Street Baptist Church parking lot), 348-8251. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Phoenix Hill NuLu Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Oct.) Tuesday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 1007 E. Jefferson Street (Fresh Start Growers' Supply parking lot), 262-7194. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Rainbow Blossom Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Oct.) Sunday noon - 4 p.m., 3738 Lexington Road, 896-0189. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Rowan Street Farmers’ Market (Mid June - Oct.) Tuesday & Thursday 8 a.m. - noon, 3360 Commerce Center Place, 510-0819. www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 15


••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Russell Neighborhood Farmers’ Market (June - Oct.) Friday 3 p.m. 6:30 p.m., S. 22nd Street & Cedar Street, 775-4041. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Schnitzelburg Community Farmers’ Market (Mid April - Nov.) Saturday 10 a.m. - 1 p.m., 1481 S. Shelby Street (The Cure Lounge parking lot), 417-5902. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• South Point Farmers’ Market (May - Sept.) Sunday 11 a.m. - 3 p.m., 4148 Taylor Boulevard, 574-6164. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Southwest Farmers’ Market (June Oct.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 10200 Dixie Highway (Valley High School parking lot), 649-4970. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• St. Andrew Farmers’ Market (May Oct.) Thursday 3 p.m. - 6:30 p.m., 2608 Browns Lane, 643-6584. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• St. Francis of the Fields Farmers’ Market (June - Nov.) Saturday 9:30 a.m. - 1 p.m. & Tuesday 3 p.m. - 6:30 p.m., 6710 Wolf Pen Branch Road, (812) 968-3693. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• St. Matthews Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Oct.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 4100 Shelbyville Road (Beargrass Christian Church), 896-1161. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• The Temple Farmers’ Market (April - Nov.) Monday 3 p.m. - 7 p.m., 5101 US Hwy 42, 423-1818. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Tower View Farm and Nursery Farmers’ Market (Year-Round) Monday thru Saturday 8 a.m. - 7 p.m. & Sunday 10 a.m. - 5 p.m., 12523 Taylorsville Road, 267-2066. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Victory Park Farmers’ Market (June - Oct.) Saturday noon - 4 p.m., S. 22nd Street & Kentucky Street, 775-4041. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Westport Road Baptist Farmers’ Market (April - Oct.) Saturday 9 a.m. - 12:30 p.m., 9705 Westport Road, 425-2350. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• 16

••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Whole Foods Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Sept.) Wednesday 3 p.m. - 7 p.m., 4944 Shelbyville Road, 899-5545. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Winter Market at Harvey Brown Presbyterian Church (Nov. - April) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 301 Browns Lane, 599-7295.

INDIANA ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Jeffersonville Farmers’ Market (June - Mid Oct.) Saturday 9 a.m. noon & Tuesday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 240 Wall Street (Wall Street United Methodist Church), (812) 2830301. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• New Albany Farmers’ Market (Year Round) 8 a.m. - 12:30 p.m. (Early May - Oct.), 10 a.m. - noon (Nov - Early May), 202 E. Market Street, (New Albany City Square), (502) 905-3640. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• New Albany Farmers’ Market at Floyd Memorial Hospital (June Sept.) Tuesday 11 a.m. - 1 p.m., 1850 State Street (Floyd Memorial Hospital parking lot), (502) 905-3640. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• New Albany Farmers’ Market at W.I.C. (June - Sept.) Thursday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 1917 Bono Road (Floyd Memorial Hospital - inside W.I.C. building), (502) 905-3640. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Charlestown Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Oct.) Thursday 3 p.m. 6 p.m., Main Street (Town Square), (812) 283-0301. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Floyd Knobs Farmers’ Market (Year-Round) Saturday 8 a.m. - 1 p.m., 400 Lafollette Station Drive, (812) 923-4438. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• The Farmers’ Market at Sam's (June - Sept.) Saturday 8 a.m. noon, 3800 Payne Koehler Road (Sam's Food & Spirits parking lot), (812) 246-2673. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••


farmers’ markets \ FOOD

www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 17


FOOD \ cooking with ron

Watermelon Summer’s Best Fruit

BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

-

any of the seasonal foods we anticipate appearing at local markets in the summer are native to North or South America. Tomatoes,

corn and hot peppers are all indigenous American crops, developed into dietary staples by Amerindian cultures and then spread around the world, but one summer arrival that seems American by its ubiquity in the hot months is an import to the Americas from Africa—watermelon. Is there anyone who is not happy to dig into a cold watermelon and let the juices drip down their chins? Watermelons are perhaps the quintessential American summer fruit. It’s hardly a picnic or barbecue without watermelon to bring it to a sloppy, sticky end.

Watermelons are an ancient fruit in Africa. Depictions of large green oblongs on Egyptian tomb walls seem to suggest watermelons were cultivated along the Nile 4,000 years ago. Watermelons spread widely over Africa and east to India but never made a strong impression in Europe, where a different genus of melon was cultivated (think cantaloupes and honeydew). Once established in American agriculture, watermelons spread widely, though it is fair to say that watermelons are now closely associated with the states below the Mason-Dixon line. Mark Twain certainly identified the water18 Summer 2017Â www.foodanddine.com

melon with the South. In “Pudd’nhead Wilson’s Calendar,â€? a compendium of maxims, adages and aperçus that begin each chapter in his novel Pudd’nhead Wilson, Twain indulges in a paean to the watermelon:

“

4HE TRUE 3OUTHERN WATERMELON IS A BOON APART AND NOT TO BE MENTIONED WITH COMMONER THINGS )T IS CHIEF OF THIS WORLDSLUXURIES KINGBYTHEGRACEOF'ODOVER ALL THE FRUITS OF THE EARTH 7HEN ONE HAS TASTEDIT HEKNOWSWHATTHEANGELSEAT)TWAS NOT A 3OUTHERN WATERMELON THAT %VE TOOKWEKNOWITBECAUSESHEREPENTED

�

Choosing a perfectly ripe watermelon at the height of its sweetness is not a sure thing. When I was a youngling back in New Jersey a long time ago, I remember vendors at farmers’ markets willing to “plugâ€? a watermelon — cut out an inch-square plug from the center to give the shopper evidence of the interior quality. Such unsanitary largesse is seldom offered any more. Trust the judgment of purveyors at farmers’ markets, who will likely replace a melon that fails to satisfy. Watermelons are, of course, over 90 percent water by weight. This fact alone makes them a valuable source of hydration in areas of the world with questionable drinking water. Watermelon juice was offered regularly at breakfast in tourist restaurants when I vacationed in India, for instance. Simply purĂŠe watermelon flesh in a blender and then strain. Watermelon lemonade is a way to make both drinks even more refreshing. Watermelons are also good sources of vitamins A and C, and eating a thick, sloppy slice or two also provides a good amount of soluble fiber, a dietary necessity few of us want to think much about. In recent years chefs have explored uses for watermelons beyond the obviousness of their value as a dessert fruit. Mark Bittman even suggests a way to grill a watermelon slice, although he does not make a strong argument for really needing to do so. Aside from its straightforward value as a summer fruit delight, it is most useful as an adjunct to drinks, side dishes and salads. Watermelon is a most pleasant addition to summer salads, and seems to have a special affinity with feta or goat cheese. It is fun to add watermelon in unexpected places, like in side dishes to an easy main course. And it does not take much work to make excellent use of the otherwise useless watermelon rind: watermelon pickle is a Southern staple that took me a while to accommodate myself to, but now canning a few pints to use later as an unusual condiment is a summer ritual. If you don’t want to go through the minor trouble of processing in a water bath, you can make refrigerator watermelon rind pickles even more easily — just remember to eat them in a few weeks. A really good watermelon, as Mark Twain can affirm, is so good to eat all by itself, why trouble yourself doing anything at all to it? But if you have a lot of very good watermelon, it will behoove you to see what else you can do to enjoy it in new ways. Here are a few.


cooking with ron \ FOOD

Fish tacos with watermelon guacamole

www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 19


FOOD \ cooking with ron

Minty watermelon salad

&ISHTACOSWITH WATERMELONGUACAMOLE (Serves 8-10 tacos)

For the watermelon guacamole: 2 medium avocados, peeled and chopped 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 teaspoons diced jalapeño pepper (or to taste)  b  cup cilantro, chopped 2 medium garlic cloves, minced 1 4-ounce can diced green chiles, drained 1 b  cups watermelon, diced small Salt to taste In a medium bowl, mash avocado as smooth or as chunky as you like. Add lime, jalapeño, cilantro, garlic and chiles, and mix thoroughly. Fold in watermelon and taste, adjusting flavor with salt if needed. Cover and refrigerate to let flavors blend.

For the tacos: 1 b  pounds cod Juice of one lime 1 tablespoon chili powder, or to taste 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste One small onion, peeled and 20 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

thinly sliced into rings 3-4 cups commercial cole slaw mix (shredded cabbage and carrots)  b  cup of your favorite salsa 16-20 corn tortillas Heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray a sheet of aluminum foil with cooking spray. Place cod on foil and rub both sides of fish with lime juice. Sprinkle with chili powder and salt and top with sliced onion. Wrap foil loosely around fish, crimping all edges closed. Place on a baking sheet or shallow pan and bake for 12 to 20 minutes (depending on thickness of fish) or until barely cooked through. Remove from oven, carefully open the foil and cut the fish into pieces. Heat tortillas on a grill or griddle. Top each with  b  cup cabbage mixture, a few pieces of fish, a heaping spoonful of watermelon guacamole and a tablespoon of salsa.

 

b  cup red wine vinegar b  cup olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons finely chopped mint, plus more mint sprigs for garnish Cut the flesh from the melon, cut into 1-inch cubes, remove seeds and place in colander over a bowl to drain. Place the lettuce in a salad bowl, tearing leaves into smaller pieces if necessary. Add the watermelon chunks, onion and feta, and toss lightly. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar and oil. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Whisk in the minced mint leaves. Add dressing to salad to taste, toss again and serve. Garnish with whole mint leaves, if desired.

0ICKLEDWATERMELONRIND (Makes 2 pints)

-INTYWATERMELONSALAD (Serves 6)

1 small watermelon, about 5 pounds or so 1 sweet onion, peeled and sliced into thin rings 6 cups baby lettuce, washed and dried 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

8 cups chopped watermelon rind, pink flesh cut off and green rind removed with vegetable peeler 2 quarts water  b  cup salt 7 cups white sugar 2 cups white or cider vinegar 1 lemon, thinly sliced and seeded 1 cinnamon stick, broken into 1-inch pieces


cooking with ron \ FOOD 1 tablespoon whole cloves 1 tablespoon allspice berries  b  teaspoon mustard seed Slice peeled watermelon rind into 2-inch pieces. Combine 2 quarts water and  b  cup salt in a large pot, bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve salt. Cool, add watermelon rind and let sit, covered, overnight. Drain the salt water and rinse rind well. Place in a stock pot with clean water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and cook for about 20 minutes, or until the rind is tender. Drain. In a large pot, combine the sugar, vinegar and lemon slices. Tie the spices into a cheesecloth bag, and place in the pot. Bring the syrup to a boil, and boil for 5 minutes. Add the rinds, and cook until transparent, about 15 minutes. Remove spice bag. Sterilize pint canning jars by boiling for 15 minutes. Also sterilize canning lids and rings in boiling water. For refrigerator pickles, ladle preserves into hot sterile jars, cover with syrup they were boiled in, screw on lids and rings, and set on a rack to cool. When cooled, refrigerate and use within a month or so as a condiment for grilled meat or fish, or on the side of sandwiches. To process for longer preservation, bring water to a boil in a canning kettle with a rack on the bottom. Ladle rind and syrup to cover into sterile jars, screw on lids and rings, and place in the canning kettle, being sure to cover jars with at least 1 inch of water. Cover kettle and process at a boil for 10 minutes. Remove jars, cool, label and store for up to a year. Refrigerate after opening.

Pickled watermelon rind

7ATERMELONLEMONADE (Makes 2 quarts) Tip: This also makes for a fine mixer for cocktails. Add a shot of your favorite vodka (we suggest Tito’s vodka) to a glass of this juice for a refreshing adult beverage.

4 cups water 1 b  cups sugar 6-8 cups watermelon cubes, seeds picked out  b  cup lemon juice  b  cup lime juice Combine water and sugar in a pan and bring to a boil. Stir until sugar is dissolved to make a simple syrup. Let cool and set aside. PurĂŠe the watermelon cubes in a blender, and then strain the liquid through a fine strainer. Press lightly on the pulp to extract more juice, but avoid pushing too much pulp through the strainer. Pour watermelon juice into a pitcher, and add the lemon and lime juices. Taste, and add enough simple syrup to sweeten to your taste. Add more water if mixture seems too thick. Stir well before pouring over ice; fruit solids will settle. F&D

Watermelon lemonade www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 21


profile | red hog

RedHog

a butcher shop, a restaurant, a

F RED HOG ARTISAN MEAT 2622 Frankfort Ave. Louisville, KY 502.384.0795 Redhogartisanmeat.com

ocus, high standards, dedication to an ideal and plenty of hard work — these principles helped Kit Garrett and Bobby Hancock

set the mark in Louisville for exceptional artisan breads when they opened Blue Dog Bakery & Café nearly 20 years ago. Today, their Red Hog Artisan Meat on Frankfort Avenue, which opened in September 2016, is repeating those principles, not only to serve excellent meats but to also hopefully build a network of farmers across Kentucky who also believe humane husbandry produces the best possible pastured pork, beef, lamb and chicken.

22 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com


red hog | profile

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAN DRY

rethinking of how we raise and consume meat

Chef Jay Denham and Owner Bobby Hancock (right)

“It goes back to Bobby’s obsession with pigs, a highlight of which was a trip with his friend, Jay Denham, to Jabugo, Spain, years ago to attend what was almost a sacred event — a family gathering for the breaking down of a pig that they would share for the coming year,” Garrett said. Hancock’s passion has followed a long trajectory, including breeding mule foot and red wattle pigs on their farm in Oldham County, before landing in the creation of Red Hog — a carnivore’s delight and celebration of human ingenuity and traditions totally at odds with factory farming, industrialized processing methods and the environmental costs those methods pose. It is immediately clear significant funds and deliberate vision went into the renovation of the one-time gas station on Frankfort Ave. While keeping the basic materials of bricks and metal, Garrett and Hancock worked with architect Jeff Rawlins to transform the space into a sleekly modern setting. The earlier office space of the garage is now an efficient butcher shop with chill cases, curing cabinets, butcher blocks and a French Rotisol rotisserie, the burgundy finish of which became the color scheme for the restaurant. The former garage’s large service bay area is now full of long high-top steel-leg tables with butcher block tops, an open kitchen along the far wall fronted by a tiled separation where diners can also sit, a busy bar set up on the right wall, and entryways to the prep kitchen and butcher shop in the back. Ductwork and stainless steel are prominent but are balanced by the burgundy walls, terrazzo floor and a surprisingly bright ceiling of poplar wood planking.Two stunning large steel light fixtures pull all the elements together. In keeping with the transformation of the space, garage bay doors now open onto a

patio dominated by a huge quartzite table supported by steel and a wall of orangish Cor-Ten steel fashioned into wood racks for the kitchen’s fuel. Newly planted trees along the west front of the patio promise cooling shade in the years to come.

Incredible Team Garrett and Hancock know that success at the level to which they aspire takes a team. First, they enlisted Zach Leezer, the kitchen manager from Blue Dog Bakery & Café, to assist with Red Hog’s cooking. To say it has an “open kitchen” is an understatement. A wood-burning oven, open-fire grill, flat top and beef tallow deep-fry station fill one wall and are essentially in the dining room. High-top tables and counter seating facing the action are tucked up close and allow for full visual, and sometimes thermal, access to the action of baking pizzas, roasting vegetables and chickens and whatever else is featured on the weekly-changing menu. For the butcher shop, charcuterie and curing operations, Hancock hired Jay Denham, an old friend and certainly the most knowledgeable meat curer and charcuterie chef in Louisville, if not east of the Mississippi River. Denham, a native of Maysville, Kentucky, grew up intimate with farm-totable operations and later earned high marks as executive chef at Park Place at Slugger Field. When that venue closed in the economic downturn of 2008, Denham set off on a sevenmonth sabbatical in Italy to study traditional meat-curing practices, including working under Master Chef Massimo Spigaroli at Antica Corte Pallavicina near Parma in the Po River valley. Spigaroli is nationally famous for his production of culatello, perhaps the most highly prized of Parma’s cured hams.

www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 23


profile | red hog

urban bourbon trail | liquids

Red Hog’s curing room.

“Everything we do here is artisan,” Denham said. “But it’s not new. These curing methods go back to the Etruscans and are thousands of years old.” Working with Denham is Duncan Paynter, previously of Lilly’s and four years as sous chef at Proof on Main, where charcuterie was one of his specialties. Paynter makes it clear he is trying to restore skills made obsolete by assembly-line slaughterhouses where each worker performs only one task. “I am trying to get more experience cutting whole animals, breaking them down into different cuts,” Paynter said. “There is definitely a generation gap, where what was once common on farms has been lost to modern processing.” Breaking down pigs, cattle, lamb and chicken is something you can learn about on the internet, and you will discover it is about “the whole animal.” It truly is a special skill to be able to deconstruct a carcass into its traditional cuts and products. “We make everything here — shoulder quarters become Boston butts and picnic hams, bone-in and boneless loins, city hams (which are brine-cured and baked) and country hams, dry-cured with sugars and salt,” Denham said. “We do European-style cure with no smoke, and cure from a few weeks to a few years. Then there’s smoked jowl, guanciale (Italian cured pork cheek), bacon, head cheese, country pa^tés, and creations like fennel and picante salami.” The butcher area in back gleams with antiseptic tile and stainlesssteel work counters, coolers with carcasses, curing rooms where sausages and salami hang in their knotted cases, some blooming with penicillin molds which both protect them from bacteria and draw moisture out of meat, and a large Martini 280 smoker. All of this goodness is available in the front butcher shop as well as 24 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

in the restaurant, which has a simple chalkboard menu which changes every week, offering a couple of featured entrées, wood-oven pizzas, specialty sandwiches, cheese and charcuterie boards, and even a few vegetarian options. Among those entrées are rotisserie chicken, turned to perfection in that Rotisol rotisserie, and an unusual version of fish and chips, the fish being a whole grilled rainbow trout. Among the sandwich selections are roast beef with Tillamook cheddar (and a Blue Dog roll, of course) and a bacon bleu cheeseburger made with beef from Black Hawk Farms and bacon cured in-house at Red Hog. Does all this effort resonate at the table and on the plate? Frankfort Avenue residents Lynda Clark and her husband, Mark Wilmoth, who have added the Red Hog to their monthly rotation since it opened, certainly think so. "We usually split a (meat and cheese) platter and then a pizza. Their dough is fantastic," Wilmoth said, nodding toward Clark, a native of New Jersey who admits to knowing her way around Italian cuisine, "We bought some of their sweet Italian sausage and Lynda made lasagna with it. It was like eating wedding cake. That good." So whether it’s a French saucisson, a pa^té or terrine, a hearty braunschweiger or translucently thin slice of air-cured pork still marbled with fat and full of nutty flavor, you can expect a special, even transcendent, experience. And your first experience might easily lead to further (opposite, clockwise from top left) The front butcher shop; rows of salami hang in the curing room while they age; a staff member slices ham for sandwiches; tubes of sausage all in a row; Red Hog Farm ham quarters; Duncan Paynter preparing to break a side of beef; (center) Black Hawk Farm 60-day dry aged ribeye.


25


(clockwise, from above) Jay Denham mans the wood-burning pizza oven; Red Hog’s version of an Old Fashioned dubbed the “Lil Squeaker” with bacon-infused Bourbon, maple and togarashi simple syrup and house-made blood orange bitters; the “Really F’ing Good Bacon Bleu Cheeseburger” made with eight-hour coldsmoked Blackhawk Farms beef, with bacon and bleu cheese; charcuterie board featuring Kenny’s Farmhouse cheeses and an assortment of meats and pâté; rotisserie chicken with spring peas and shiitake salad; Red Hog’s take on fish and chips — marcona almondcrusted rainbow trout with a sage brown butter and fries.

26


red hog | profile explorations and, ultimately, marks toward a graduate degree in the field of heritage meat breeds and artisan curing and preparation.

from 4 p.m. – 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturdays.

Bar Program

One of Red Hog’s ambitions is to cultivate a network of farmers throughout Kentucky that share its commitment to natural meats. “We are trying to develop a yearly supply cycle for all our meats that are non-GMO, antibiotic free, pasture raised,” Garrett said. “Without an outlet to support them, many small operators produce ‘flushes’ of vegetables and meat. We hope to encourage ethical, sustainable production under humane conditions.” Red Hog's Kentucky Proud™ network of suppliers now includes beef from Black Hawk Farms and beef and pork from Phillip Lyvers in Bardstown. Poultry comes from Rivercrest Farm in Oldham County and Four Hills in Danville and the lamb is from Freedom Run in Shelby County. It is a certainty this list will grow. The Red Hog people support these small farm operations and want them to have access to urban markets where the quality of their product shines and wins the support of a wider audience. Of course, there are a lot of risks involved with this approach, but hitting the right note of excellence, along with hard work, has supported Garrett and Hancock's vision so far. Respect and a spirit of celebration for the animals they work with, process, cook and serve, is a theme you pick up on at the Red Hog. And while it is sometimes hidden under his shirt, Hancock wears a chicken-foot talisman around his neck to remind him of the game. “It’s from a Cornish Cross, and I salt cured it before having a jeweler friend turn it into a pendant,” Hancock said. “There’s a little white voodoo to it, but it’s mostly a reminder that what we enjoy comes at a real cost — both to the farmer and to the animal.” F&D

Again, Garrett and Hancock exhibited exceptional drawing power by getting Damian Cooke to come over from Proof on Main to run the beverage program and Darien Barnes from the Silver Dollar to assist him. Cooke, winner of five Bourbon cocktail competitions since arriving in Louisville, appreciates the linkage between his specialty and the Red Hog’s aspirations. “Our program is designed around what the butchers are doing, and we make everything we can in-house,” Cooke said. “All the love and passion they have for their craft, we also do here behind the bar.” Their approach to a traditional Old Fashioned, using house-made blood orange bitters and smoked Demerara sugar, is illustrative. So also is Cooke’s interest in mixing cocktails using “shrubs,” vinegar and fruit mixes common as a preservation technique dating back to the 16th and 17th century and popular in colonial America. While the invention of refrigeration almost ended them, Cooke is an enthusiastic explorer of the range of possibilities they offer for mixes and flavorings. “Bobby and Kit are receptive to something different. I discovered shrubs at Pock Pock, a Thai restaurant in Portland, Oregon. In addition to making all of our syrups and bitters, we recycle our fruit juices into these vinegars,” Cooke said. “They are seasonal, have a shelf life of 8-12 months and add dimensions of the kind of garden-based cocktails I enjoy.” The bar also stocks a nice selection of draught and bottled craft beers and wines to complement the umami-rich meat and cheese offerings. There are also daily special featured cocktails, wine and beer offerings along with Happy Hour specials

A Network of Farmers

Wood-fired pizza with spring peas, Capriole goat cheese, asparagus and a Rivercrest Farm egg.

27


liquids | spirits

Michter’s New

Master Pam Heilmann’s promotion

may have been historic, but she’s just focusing on the work. BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTO BY ANDY HYSLOP

7

hen Michter’s President Joseph J. Magliocco called Pam Heilmann nearly four years ago about helping

As for Heilmann, she says she was “blown away” by what Magliocco and Master Distiller Willie Pratt were proposing: a spare-no-expense operation focused on making top-quality whiskey. “I loved the idea that I could do something like that,” she said. “And also, how often does someone approach you and ask you to be part of a design, a build and a bring-it-up-from-scratch, brand-new distillery? It sounded exciting and challenging, a chance to be part of a legacy.” And, as it turned out, to also be part of Bourbon history. Last October, three years after signing on as distiller and vice president of production at Michter’s, Heilmann was promoted to master distiller when 45-year industry veteran Pratt transitioned to a more flexible schedule as master distiller emeritus. In the process, she became one of Kentucky’s first female master distillers since Prohibition, and the first at a facility currently producing whiskey. The promotion, Heilmann says, was totally unexpected. “It might have been in Joe’s mind [when he hired me], but for me, it was come on board, make a good product and do what we need to do — support Willie and our goals. Master distiller? I hadn’t really thought about that.”

“An accelerated education” She certainly wasn’t thinking about it when she and her husband, Marty, were transferred to Elizabethtown from Syracuse, New York, nearly 20 years ago by their employer, Crucible Industries—he as a manager trying to save the company’s Kentucky plant and she as a supervisor. She had always worked in

him create a distillery in Shively to produce the whiskey brand he had resurrected, she was flabbergasted. “I thought, ‘How does he even know I exist?’” True, she had been working for Jim Beam

since 1998, but she had spent most of those years at the Booker Noe plant (including eight as distillery manager) in tiny Boston, Kentucky. “How did he find me? Who even knows about Boston, Kentucky?” Lots of well-regarded folks in the Bourbon industry, that’s who. And when Magliocco asked them to list the four distillers in the country they would choose to start a new distillery, Heilmann’s name was on every list. “The people that I spoke to all said that Pam could make

great

whiskey,”

Magliocco

said.

“Additionally, they said that she knew all aspects of distilling Bourbon and rye, and that she was good at managing people. Within a few minutes of meeting her, I felt that Pam was the person we were looking for. She was extremely smart and was clearly someone who would pay careful attention to details.” 28 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

male-dominated industries; before supervising the metallurgical division at Crucible (where she was the only female in a supervisory role), she held a similar position in agricultural machinery for Allis Chalmers. But she had zero distillery experience — she didn’t even drink Bourbon. So when her husband realized that the plant would soon close and a friend suggested she apply for a job at Jim Beam, she was skeptical. It turned out that Beam was putting together teams of people with different skills. She said, “...someone with biology experience, someone with chemistry experience,


spirits | liquids

someone with business experience. My background was business management.” She accepted a job as a distillery relief supervisor, in which she worked different shifts at both Beam plants. “I had never worked a ‘shift’ in my life,” she said. “But it sounded like it would keep my interest and challenge me constantly — and I was 100 percent right.” She worked midnight to 8 a.m. on Monday and Tuesday; on Wednesday and Thursday, from 4 p.m. to midnight. Friday was a day off, followed by day shift on Saturday and another day off on Sunday. “Each one of those was at a different plant from Boston to Clermont and back again, relieving different supervisors. I was learning everything. To be honest, it was an accelerated education.” During down time, she was at then Master Distiller Jerry Dalton’s beck and call, working on special projects. “That man was really, really smart. I learned a lot from him and from my actual manager and operators. You learn tons from the operators. Forty-year veterans? Those guys have been around, and they had worked with Booker [Noe, longtime Jim Beam master distiller before Dalton]. They knew stuff, and they shared everything they knew.” Heilmann eventually worked her way up to distillery manager at the Booker Noe plant, a job she held for eight years. During her tenure, the distillery expanded to increase production by 50 percent. She could easily have stayed with Beam for a few more years and retired — but then she got that phone call.

“The decision-maker”

former position of distiller when she was promoted to master distiller. While Heilmann says it’s a great honor to be one of the first female master distillers since Prohibition, she has never really focused on gender. “I think it takes a certain type of woman to work in male-dominated industries.You have to be able to focus on why you’re there and what you’re doing and not worry about all of that other stuff. To be honest, I don’t think of myself as a woman. I think of myself as ‘This is my job, this is what I go to work to do and I do the best I can do.’ To me, it’s an honor just to be a master distiller.” There is no common definition for that title among distilleries, but Heilmann said what it means to her at Michter’s is that she is “the decision-maker.” “I’m the person who says yea or nay, this is good, this is not good, this is the route we should go. I get input from a lot of people, and there are a lot of great people working here. But the direction that we go and what we distill, I have a lot of say in that.” Because the Michter’s staff is still relatively small, she also wears several other hats. “I do the safety program here; I do the environmental program here. If there’s a time when we get behind in bottling, I’ll go down and put bottles in boxes. We all help out.” But it’s the hands-on distilling that remains her favorite aspect of the job. “My heart’s there,” she said. “When I get too far away from that, I want to get back down there and put my hands in grain, go to the tail box and get some white dog out. I’m down there every day that I’m here.” When she’s not there, chances are good that she’s attending an event to promote Michter’s products. As consumers have become more savvy about the brands they enjoy, they want to meet the people behind the brands. “I’ve seen that even in just my short time here,” she said. “The role is more about people saying, ‘Hey, you’re the master distiller. We want to talk to you.’ I’m out being the face.” And now you know her name. F&D

Like Heilmann, Michter’s is an East Coast transplant who now calls Kentucky home. Philadelphia-area liquor broker Lou Forman named the Michter’s whiskey brand in the 1950s at Pennco Distillers near Schaefferstown, Pennsylvania, by combining the names of his sons, Michael and Peter. After a group of businessmen bought Pennco in 1975 and made Forman president, he renamed the entire distillery Michter’s. After a successful decade or so, Michter’s began to struggle as the demand for If you’d like to read more from our spirits columwhiskey waned, and the company filed for bankruptcy in 1983, eventually abandoning nist, Carla Carlton, be sure to check out her new both the distillery property and the trademark. book, in which she seeks to answer the question: In 2004, Magliocco, who had sold Michter’s How has an industry that was on the rocks 30 during college, acquired the name. But rather than try to resurrect the Pennsylvania distillery, years ago become the toast of the town? he decided to move the operation to Barrel Strength Bourbon: Kentucky, which produces 95 percent of the world’s supply of Bourbon. Production went The Explosive Growth of America’s Whiskey through three phases: buying whiskey from In her first book, Bourbon journalist and regular other sources; having another distillery make Food & Dining columnist Carla Carlton examines his own recipe; and now, making Bourbon and the creation of an American spirit, its postrye at a 67,000-square-foot distillery in Shively. Prohibition resurrection and astronomical surge in “I came on board prior to the third phase,” the past decade, and how Bourbon crafters are Heilmann said. She was the sixth person to join the Michter’s team, which, three years later, has growing a multibillion-dollar global industry while grown to 26 people. That number includes staying true to their Kentucky roots. Dan McKee, with whom she worked at the AVAILABLE NOW ON AMAZON AND OTHER BOOK RETAILERS. Booker Noe Distillery. He advanced from distillery manager at Michter’s to Heilmann’s

www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 29


food | easy entertaining

EASY entertaining

Bring it to the party! Simple recipes for when you are the guest bringing a dish BY TIM & LORI LAIRD | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

/

ne of the things we always consider when bringing a dish to a party is the convenience to the host. Having thrown as many parties as we have, we know how hectic things can get once guests start to arrive. It’s a good idea to always bring your item ready to serve along with the appropriate serving utensils. Your host and hostess are busy preparing their own items and would appreciate not having to drop everything to find serving dishes and serving pieces for what you brought. And choosing a dish that is ready to serve when you arrive means you don’t have to worry about having enough room in the oven or on the stovetop. The same is true for flowers. If they are fresh cut, always bring them in a vase ready to display so your host doesn’t have to go searching for a vase or worry about cutting the stems and arranging them. A party can never have too many appetizers, so we often bring our Brie in a Puffed Pastry dish. As soon as it comes out of the oven, it can rest as you travel to your party. When you get there, it will be ready to serve. This version is topped with Bourbon, bacon and pecans, making a real treat. Bring along your favorite crackers or a sliced baguette and you’re all set. The great thing about salads is you can fit them in to any type of meal. A side we love is our Brown Rice Salad. It’s super easy to make and can be made in advance. It’s perfect for a summer party, because it doesn’t have mayonnaise — which means it doesn’t need to be refrigerated and can sit out throughout the party. Another great side that doesn’t need to be kept cold and uses fresh fruits and berries of the season is a Strawberry

30 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

We get a lot of questions on entertaining. One of the most frequent is, “I’ve been invited to a party, what should I bring?” We have a few go-to items that are easy to make, serve and transport. Here you’ll find a variety of dishes to fit almost any occasion, from an office potluck to a summer BBQ to a high-end dinner party. Caprese Salad.This is a Triple Crown winner, created by Churchill Downs Executive Chef, David Danielson. If it’s good enough for Millionaires Row we think it’s good enough to take to a party. For a dessert dish, bring Grilled Pound Cake with a Chambord raspberry sauce and fresh berries. Simply buy the pound cake, slice it, grill it at home. When you get to the party, top it with the raspberry sauce and fresh berries. This recipe uses whatever berries are in season, so after a quick stop at the farmers market you have a beautiful, super-fresh and easy to make dessert that’s a crowd pleaser. (For a list of all the local farmers’ markets and a seasonal harvest list, see story page 14 in this issue). One of our favorite items to bring instead of a dish is a signature cocktail that is batched up and ready to serve. This allows the host or hostess to enjoy their party and not have to worry about playing bartender. A favorite of ours, which has been a big hit, is our Sangarita, a combination of a Sangria and Margarita. It’s easy to make by the pitcher and guests can serve themselves by

simply pouring it over ice. Finally, if you forgot you had to bring something or don’t have time to make any of these dishes, you can always buy fresh olives, feta or blue cheese and bread. So bring it on and enjoy the party with some of these easily transported dishes. Just remember these few simple tips and your contribution to the party is sure to be a success: Bring appropriate serving platters and serving pieces for your dish. Never plan to re-heat anything at the party. Bring your item ready to serve. Bring items that do not require refrigeration. If you need to keep your dish cool, put ice in a zip-top bag, place it under lettuce leaves or a garnish and place your food on top. Always bring flowers to a party in a vase. If you bring a signature cocktail, it’s a nice touch to include the recipe so everyone knows what’s in the drink. You can put it in a decorative frame to leave with your host or hostess as a gift.


easy entertaining | food

3TRAWBERRY#APRESE3ALAD WITH"ASIL$RESSING (Serves 6)

For the salad: 2 pints cherry tomatoes (any variety), halved 1 pint strawberries, quartered 1 cup small mozzarella balls  b  cup basil dressing (recipe below) Salt Pepper Basil leaves for garnish In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes, strawberries and mozzarella. Drizzle desired amount of basil dressing then toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with torn basil leaves.

For the basil dressing: b  cup firmly packed fresh basil leaves 1 cup light corn syrup



In a blender, combine corn syrup and basil. Blend until smooth.

"OURBON"ACON"RIE (Serves 6)

8 slices bacon b  cup maple syrup  b  cup Woodford Reserve Bourbon 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, defrosted 1 8-ounce wheel brie, rind on Egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water) 2 tablespoons pecans, coarsely chopped Baguette, sliced for serving 

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a small frying pan, cook bacon until crisp over medium heat. Drain on paper towel then crumble. Pour off the fat from the pan, then add the maple syrup and Bourbon, cooking over medium heat until combined. Add the bacon and stir until completely coated. Roll out the puff pastry on parchment paper. Place brie in the center of the pastry, then top with all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon mixture. Brush the edges of the pastry with the egg wash and fold up each corner on top of the brie to seal it. Place the brie on a lightly greased baking sheet or oven-proof dish. Brush the whole pastry with the rest of the egg wash and top with remaining bacon mixture and pecans. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until puff pastry is golden. Cover with foil if getting too dark. Let set for 5-10 minutes. Serve with sliced baguette.

Strawberry Caprese Salad with Basil Dressing

31


food | easy entertaining Bourbon Bacon Brie

'RILLED0OUND#AKEWITH 2ASPBERRY3AUCEAND"ERRIES (Serves 6-8) You can replace the strawberries and blackberries with whatever berries are in season.

For the pound cake: 8 8 1 1 1

b -inch thick slices pound cake tablespoons melted butter cup blackberries cup raspberries cup strawberries, sliced Powdered sugar



Preheat grill to medium heat. Brush both sides of the pound cake slices with the melted butter. Grill until just toasted, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Serve with a drizzle of raspberry sauce (recipe below), fresh berries and a sprinkle of powdered sugar.

For the raspberry sauce: 12 ounces fresh or frozen (thawed) raspberries  b  cup sugar 2 tablespoons Chambord liqueur In a food processor or blender, pureĂŠ the raspberries with the sugar and Chambord. Pour through a fine mesh sieve to remove the seeds. Pour into a small pitcher for serving. Can be made one day in advance.

Grilled Pound Cake with Raspberry Sauce and Berries

32 Summer 2017Â www.foodanddine.com

32


easy entertaining | food Brown Rice Salad

"ROWN2ICE3ALAD (Serves 6)

1 cup brown rice b  cup Italian salad dressing 2 cups (2 b  ounces) fresh spinach leaves, chopped 1 cup celery, chopped  b  cup walnuts, toasted and chopped  b  cup (1 bunch) green onion, chopped 1 teaspoon black pepper  b  teaspoon salt 

Cook one cup of brown rice according to the directions on the package. When cooked, drain and rinse lightly with hot water, shaking out excess moisture. In a large bowl, toss the warm rice with the salad dressing. Let cool in the refrigerator, then add the spinach, celery, walnuts, green onions, pepper and salt. Toss, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Can be made two hours ahead.

For a pitcher: (Makes eight 5-ounce cocktails) In a pitcher with ice, add:

12 ounces El Jimador silver tequila 12 ounces Finest Call Red Sangria Mixer 16 ounces cranberry juice Juice of  b  lime

For a batch: (Makes 19 5-ounce cocktails) In a 128 ounce dispenser with ice, add:

28 ounces El Jimador silver tequila 28 ounces Finest Call Red Sangria Mixer 38 ounces cranberry juice 2 ounces fresh lime juice

3ANGARITA The Sangarita is a refreshing twist on Sangria and a Margarita. Serve with fresh berries in season such as blackberries, raspberries and strawberries.

For one cocktail: (Makes one 5-ounce cocktail) In a rocks glass with ice, add:

1 b  ounces El Jimador silver tequila 1 b  ounces Finest Call Red Sangria Mixer 2 ounces cranberry juice Squeeze of lime Stir and garnish with lime wedge.

Sangarita www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 33


BY ROGER BAYLOR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

It was a pivotal moment in 20th-century geopolitics. America’s collective jaw dropped as President Nixon appeared on television wielding chopsticks during a banquet with the Chinese communists in Beijing. Mrs. Nixon was particularly adept with the utensils, having practiced diligently beforehand. It wasn’t clear whether ideological negotiation or table etiquette was the major takeaway from the telecast, or the trip. Change was in the air in 1972, but there was no way of foreseeing China’s quantum leap from economic basket case to influential world power. Nor was there any indication that the legacy of indistinct Chop Suey houses and La Choy Chow Mein in cans (it still exists) would eventually yield to 41,000 Chinese eateries across America. More than 70 of them do business in Food & Dining’s metro Louisville readership area. Their very ubiquity is key; since significant numbers of Chinese began arriving in

California in the mid-19th century, their hot pots have yielded to our melting pot. A diverse culinary heritage many millennia in the making has proven perennially re-adaptable, and today it’s clear that Chinese buffets, egg rolls and General Tso are as much a part of “real” American eating as burgers, barbecue and fried chicken. 45 years after Premier Zhou Enlai introduced the visiting Nixons to pot stickers, perhaps it’s time for a culinary reboot. Without leaving Louisville, how might we sneak a peek behind the Bamboo Shoot Curtain for a more realistic taste of an ancient land and its varied regional cultures? A local expedition of rediscovery begins at two restaurants with long and successful tenures in Louisville, each complementing a core lineup of tried and true Chinese dining options with supplemental “authentic” menus filled with regional specialties. Oriental House emphasizes Cantonese and an all-day array of Dim Sum, and Jasmine Chinese Cuisine specializes in classic Szechuan dishes. (right) Oriental House serves up Beijing roasted duck, the classic banquet dish known for its crisp, glassy skin and tender meat, decorated with artful garnishes.

34 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com


chinese regional cuisines | profile

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profile | chinese regional cuisines

ORIENTAL HOUSE At Oriental House, Cantonese and Dim Sum are all in the (Chiu) family

I

t was lunchtime at Oriental House, and to my ears it sounded like many customers were making precisely the same order. “The usual.” I chatted with one of these regulars, who was waiting at the counter for his carry-out, gossiping with the help. “Happy Family is my favorite,” he said, “but I like Mexican food, too. Chicken fajitas and Happy Family, for sure. One of these days, I’m splurging on a whole Peking Duck.” Concurrently, Jonathan Chiu has a firm idea about what makes his Oriental House family happy. The secret ingredient can’t be found on spice racks or in cookbooks. It’s togetherness. “Our family works as a unit.” Bai He Chiu and his wife Fannie, both natives of China, came to Louisville from San Francisco. They bought Oriental House in 2003, becoming the restaurant’s third owners since its inception in 1964. These days, mom Fannie patrols the front of the house with the assistance of Jonathan’s sister, Melissa, who also hires, schedules and runs the company office. California-born and educated in Louisville (Bellarmine and (from left) Bai He Chiu, Fannie Chiu and Jonathan Chiu. Spalding), Jonathan has visited China only once. For the past six years, he has been alongside his father in the Oriental House China. The famous island cities of Hong Kong and Macau lie kitchen, gradually absorbing his elder’s life lessons about adjacent to the province. Taken together, these areas have a Cantonese cuisine as a whole, and specifically, the venerable art of staggering population of 116,000,000 persons in an area slightly Dim Sum. smaller than Kentucky and Indiana combined. “Every family has their own flavors and tastes,” Jonathan told me. Two centuries ago, Western visitors sailed to China and docked “My father learned in China and California, over time, from different in Guangzhou, formerly Canton, and today the capital of chefs. His mind created this menu from the best of everything he Guangdong Province. Most of them remained in the foreignershas learned. It’s what my dad envisioned Louisville wanting.” only zone, eating roasts, potatoes, puddings and other meals packed It’s what Jonathan wants, too, and he is delighted to be helping the from home. However, a few traders, sailors and missionaries family business cater to heightened demand, because even when experienced Cantonese dishes for the first time – and some the work is hard and you’re lost in the weeds, there’s no better overcame their culture shock to appreciate the differences. place to be than right in the middle of it, alongside your father. A foodie cultural migration had begun, split into two distinct “These past six years I’ve been in the kitchen, just learning from paths.The more familiar of these routes is documented in Oriental my dad. When I was growing up, he was always working, and I House’s standard everyday menu with its Americanized offerings couldn’t spend much time with him. After college, I decided I was on the historic Cantonese model, from the aforementioned chop going to learn the family business. This is what I suey, chow mein and General Tso’s chicken, to want to do. The work isn’t easy, but I get to hang moo goo gai pan and moo shu pork. Oriental House out with my dad all day, with my family, and at According to Jonathan, longtime customers the same time make his workload less.” who grew up with these choices tend to stick 4302 Shelbyville Rd. The Chiu family’s recipes at Oriental House with them, and their patronage is steady and Louisville, KY are variations on the culinary tradition of reliable. The second, more exotic face of 502.897.1017 Cantonese, which refers to the food and dining Oriental House can be found on the “Authentic www.orientalhouselouisville.com ethos of Guangdong Province in southeastern Chinese” laminated menu card, which Jonathan 36 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com


chinese regional cuisines | profile

recently augmented with colorful pictures in a binder, all the better to depict his father’s artistry. The authentic menu includes more obscure Cantonese renderings of pork, beef and seafood, as well as seldom seen offerings like Tong Choy (water spinach), Hong Su Tofu, and a dish described as “sauteed fish filet rested on its crispy bones,” in which the filet is shaped to hold steamed vegetables, with the bones serving as a base for display. There was a time when many Chinese restaurants retained just such an authentic special menu, albeit one written in Mandarin only, and usually intended for Chinese customers. This way the contents wouldn’t require explanations in English, and it was unlikely that Americans would glance past the egg rolls, anyway. By placing a renewed emphasis on its authentic Cantonese options and making them fully intelligible to non-natives, Oriental House is riding a wave of curiosity about food and drink. In Jonathan’s memorable phrase, the authentic Chinese menu is growing in popularity for a reason. “We have adventurous people who’ll eat chicken feet.” He’s absolutely right, and I’m one of them. The chicken feet were delicious – fried, braised and steamed to yield buttery skin with plenty of tender meat and cartilage there to vacuum from the bones, just so long as you’re willing to put forth the effort and get messy in the process. We eat chicken wings and think nothing of it, so why not feet? My wife and I enjoyed a late lunch date at Oriental House one afternoon and our friendly server seemed delighted with her order of Singapore-style rice noodles, accompanied by an assortment of Dim Sum: pan-fried buns with pork, tofu skin rolls, steamed spare ribs, taro cakes and turnip cakes. Then our server turned to me. “I’ll have number 14, please — the braised sea cucumbers with shiitake mushrooms.” She smiled, albeit a tad quizzically. “Have you had this dish before?” “No, but I’m going to have it now.” “All right, that’s fine. You know, not many people order this!” The sea cucumber assuredly comes from watery depths, but it is an animal and not recommended for use in Greek salads. From time immemorial this echinoderm, an otherwise undistinguished ocean-

(right, from top) Sweet and sour pork chop; Shanghai bok choy; braised sea cucumbers with shiitake mushrooms.

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profile | chinese regional cuisines

38


chinese regional cuisines | profile

floor bottom feeder, has been craved by status-conscious Chinese diners, along with equally offbeat foodstuffs like bird’s nests and shark fins. Oriental House prepares its sea cucumber in a subtle oyster sauce with shiitakes, ginger, carrots and pea pods. I found it delectable, with the sea cucumber itself somewhat reminiscent of escargot’s texture. 18th-century American sailors tepidly dipping their toes in Chinese waters were completely flummoxed by these and other mysterious gustatory specialties, although their confusion didn’t prevent them from scouring the Pacific Rim for bizarre (at least to them) foods the Chinese would accept in trade. Indeed, Cantonese cuisine always has embraced genuine diversity in sourcing, an omnivorous quality for which Guangdong province is celebrated within China itself. It’s a polite way of saying they’ll eat just about anything, although at the same time, a discerning Cantonese chef emphasizes gentle and restrained methods of preparation as sufficient to showcase the original flavor of the meats and vegetables. At Jonathan’s suggestion, I ordered a slightly more conventional Oriental House entrée, sweet and sour pork chops. The brownish-red sauce is as you might imagine, but the sweetness is savory, not cloying. There is a slight balancing tartness from the use of rice wine vinegar, and the pork flavor shines through, undiminished. One-third of Oriental House’s “Authentic Chinese” menu is taken up by Dim Sum, totaling 27 types in all, and it is available throughout the day. Dim Sum alone sets the restaurant apart from the Louisville norm, and yet Jonathan stressed to me that these varieties represent a mere sampling compared to the wider selection to be found in China and San Francisco, the American hub of Dim Sum mania. Dim Sum is a term capable of translation in a bewildering variety of ways, some of them intriguingly abstract. Literally, it means “to touch the heart” and perhaps can be viewed as widely varied little somethings for nibbling. After the Gold Rush, Dim Sum gradually evolved from Cantonese origins as a brunch-like morning snack, penetrating American consciousness as both sweet and savory dumplings, pastries and cakes enjoyed during afternoon tea service. In essence, these were stylish tapas long before small plates became cool and have evolved into contemporary edible art with modes of preparation, mutable forms and a detailed lexicon all their own. The Dim Sum list at Oriental House includes congee, an ancient and foundational form of rice porridge that Jonathan likened to chicken noodle soup in the arsenal of Western home health care. “When someone in China isn’t feeling well, we’re told to go eat some congee, and it will make us feel better.” Dim Sum is as much a philosophical quest as sustenance, and it’s no exaggeration to suggest that Bai He Chiu, patriarch of Oriental House, will someday conclude his long career as chef, engaged in what by necessity must remain the unfinished study of Dim Sum theory and practice. Perhaps the safest bet of all is that when dad’s finally ready to retire from the kitchen, his son Jonathan will be waiting at the intersection of culinary art and commerce. It’s something to think about as we await Oriental House’s 100th anniversary in 2064.

(left) Sautéed fish fillet “rested on its crispy bones” Among the 27 types of Dim Sum offered at Oriental House include (top right, from front) pork and shrimp dumplings and an order of steamed dumplings filled with shrimp; (right, from front) chicken with sticky rice, a trio of taro cakes and an adventurous choice — chicken feet. 39


profile | chinese regional cuisines

JASMINE CHINESE CUISINE The diverse seductiveness of Szechuan food pairs perfectly with Jasmine Chinese Cuisine

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trictly speaking, Jasmine Chinese Cuisine is separated from Oriental House by ten miles of busy Shelbyville Road asphalt. While the “regular” Sino-American menus at each of these essential Louisville restaurants are similar, their “authentic” Owners Lin Lin and Lan Zhang (right) regional bills of fare might be said to lie approximately 975 Chinese miles apart – the distance between Chengdu, Szechuan among history’s first locavores. 2,500 years ago, he was writing about things that remain topical: the superiority of food prepared Province and Guangzhong, Guangdong Province. It’s almost the exact space between a crock of clam chowder in with fresh, seasonal ingredients; moderation in dining and drinking; Portland, Maine and our own bowl of burgoo in Louisville, or and respect of the environment, among other observations. Confucius is but one in a pantheon of ancient philosophers paella in Madrid and Bavarian schnitzel. whose teachings inform Chinese culture to the present day. I’d I’m a devotee of the midday lunch bustle. When I walked into argue that it makes perfect sense for such doctrines to include Jasmine for the first time, dozens of carry-out bags were headed deep thoughts about food and to foster spiritual approaches and out the door for delivery by van as a table of six crisply dressed respectful rituals. After all, China’s long history is a story of so many professionals dug into identical sweet & sour chicken lunch mouths to feed, interrupted by periods of too little to eat. Food specials. has not been taken for granted. I was soon seated in a nearby corner booth, savoring a plate of Throughout the country, attitudes toward eating often have beef maw and tendon paired with a steaming bowl of sour pickled been shaped by relative scarcity; today, China possesses 40% of the fish soup. They were ordered from the separate “Chinese Menu” world’s population and only 7% of its arable land. Elderly Chinese (as labeled at Jasmine). It features specialties from Szechuan remember all too well the ravages of famine, and as you’re reading, Province, which lies in south-central China, northwest of Macao, farmland is being gobbled up by the sort of unrestrained industrial Hong Kong and the huge coastal metropolis. sprawl that tends to pollute what’s left over. Home of the giant panda, Szechuan borders Tibet and is a Perhaps at one time “living to eat” was an indulgence in places watershed of the Yangtze River.The province is a prime agricultural where “eating to live” proved a challenge, but as rational responses area long renowned throughout China for honest, spicy, elemental go, it might also represent a spur to creativity and the triumph of cuisine. Appropriately, the capital city of Chengdu was named a soulfulness. Surely Szechuan cuisine amply illustrates these World City of Gastronomy by UNESCO in 2011. qualities. One detects communal peasant origins, notched up but Lan Zhang and her husband (and chef) Lin Lin own Jasmine hardly abandoned. Chinese Cuisine. When I met with Lan in early April, Lin was According to tradition, Szechuan cooking marries spicy, sweet, abroad on a trip home to Chengdu. She eagerly unspooled a bitter, sour and salty, deploying an arsenal of preferred seasonings, series of delicious mobile phone photos showing the food he was including Szechuan peppercorns, cassia bark, black cardamom, diligently “researching” while on the road. garlic, chili peppers, ginger, star anise and broad bean chili paste. “It has been a pretty good experience for us,” said Lan about Their kaleidoscopic use justifies the famous Szechuan saying: “Each their decision to include a sizeable component of distinctive dish has its own style, and a hundred dishes Szechuan cooking in the restaurant’s repertoire. have a hundred different flavors.” She estimates that 35 to 40% of Jasmine’s sales Lan agrees. “Our Szechuan food has all the are from the Szechuan menu. Jasmine essential character, ” she told me. “We’ve cut “Our motto is fresh and simple – no MSG, Chinese Cuisine back only a little bit, and it’s not quite as spicy or nothing artificial,” she said, adding that in China 13825 English Villa Dr. strong as in China. ” itself, Szechuan cooking enjoys a widespread Louisville, KY However, even the natives can find themselves reputation. surprised. Hearing this, I was reminded that Kong Qiu — 502.244.8896 “We had a group from China come in, and they the thinker we know as Confucius — was jasminelouisville.com 40 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com


asked for authentic Szechuan. My husband said sure.” Lan made an exaggerated face, as though contorted with shock. Seems the group’s own homeland credentials were tested. “Maybe it was too much for them,” she laughed. Irrespective of the accumulation of Scoville heat units, Szechuan meals are selling. “Tastes change,” Lan said, recalling that in the past, eateries like Red Pepper (a restaurant on Brownsboro Road) didn’t survive. “People come here from the Highlands. We’re creating and changing all the time so they’ll keep coming.” Lan has requisite sweat equity, having entered the restaurant business in 1995 with a standard Chinese carry-out restaurant in Middletown. In the early 2000s, Lin arrived in Louisville looking for work. They proved to be a perfect mix personally and professionally, founding Jasmine together according to the proven General Tso’s template, but with a small number of Szechuan dishes, and gradually expanded. It may not be Chengdu, but the authentic menu is expansive. During two dining sessions at Jasmine, I was able to put just a small dent in the celestial Szechuan lineup. Two classic dishes that stood out for me were Ma Po tofu and Dan Dan Noodles. Ma Po Tofu, known colloquially as “pockmarked granny” (supposedly named for the inventor), is bean curd cooked in a characteristic sauce of red oil, chili peppers and beans, with little bits of Szechuan peppercorn that can leave a tingling, numbing sensation on the tongue. A similar sauce is the base for Dan Dan Noodles, or “noodles carried on a pole,” referring to their origin as street food — one bucket of sauce and another of noodles, on opposite ends of a pole riding the vendor’s back. Dan Dan Noodles are served with scallions and minced fried pork on top, reminding us of Szechuan cooking’s rural traditions; accordingly, Jasmine serves pig’s ear, intestines and kidneys prepared the old-fashioned way. It is this rustic element of Szechuan that provides a common link with agricultural communities everywhere, because nothing should be wasted. Confucius probably wrote a treatise about it. Accordingly, I enjoyed Twice Cooked Pork Belly; the meat is boiled, then stir-fried with bean paste and greens. Like the other dishes I tried at Jasmine, its flavors were varied, rich and assertive without being overpowering.

(right, from top) Twice cooked pork belly; Mapo Tofu (tofu in a spicy red sauce); pickled cabbage. 41


profile | chinese regional cuisines

Dan Dan Noodles

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chinese regional cuisines | profile

There’s also a small section on Jasmine’s authentic menu called Xiao Chi, which is translated as “little eats.” For a Westerner, Xiao Chi is a conceptual mélange. These are dishes too small to be a stand-alone meal, although like tapas and Dim Sum, they might be combined to suffice. Appetizers? That’s close, too. In cities like Chengdu, little eats might imply a “Fourth Meal,” pinch-hitting for what Louisvillians know as a White Castle run after revelry, late in the evening — or early in the morning. The intent of Xiao Chi is that of street food in quick bites, not formal dining. Jasmine’s small selection of Xiao Chi include Szechuan-style won tons in a vinegary sauce with garlic and chilis, chicken dumplings and scallion pancakes. As for the hundred dishes of Szechuan legend, my tally shows eight down and 92 to go, and I like those odds. Jasmine Chinese Cuisine and Oriental House have inherited the mixed legacy of the Chinese experience in America. If you think times are troubled now, recall that the Chinese Exclusion Act prohibited all Chinese laborers from coming to the United States in 1882. This piece of legislation was the first ever in America to formally ban immigration by a particular ethnic group and was repealed only in 1943 in the midst of war against Japan, China’s and

America’s common enemy. Lately I’ve been thinking about my grandparents, born a halfcentury after the Opium War of 1840-42 “opened” China to Western dominance, initiating a chain reaction that culminated in the Chinese economic miracle, albeit after considerable suffering. It is absolutely impossible to imagine them sitting down to a meal of Kung Pao pork; they’d have preferred the very same meat and potatoes demanded by the sailors in search of sea cucumbers in route to Guangzhang. Nixon’s tricky chopsticks would not have convinced my grandfather, who fancied himself a Yellow Dog Democrat but was no friend of a Commie Red, either. But here I am, within a 25-minute “virtual” drive of Szechuan and Guangdong, able to get vivid impressions of faraway lands by exercising taste buds alone, thanks to intrepid immigrants. I thank them profusely. While tea remains a serviceable beverage, perhaps a bottle or three of Tsingtao beer is better for an afternoon of Dim Sum — or Xiao Chi-fueled — reflection on the souls of Chairman Mao and Henry Kissinger, or more appropriately, about the way that food has been the mutually intelligible basis of Chinese-American relations for 225 years. F&D

Cold cucumber salad

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dining guide

Cuisine Style African ......................................70 Asian/Chinese ..........................70 Asian/Japanese........................72 Asian/Korean............................73 Asian/Mongolian.......................73 Asian/Thai ................................73 Asian/Vietnamese ....................73 Bar & Grill/Taphouse ................68 Barbecue ..................................63 Burgers/Chicken.......................58 Bistro/New American ................52

Cafés ........................................59 Cafeterias/Buffet.......................67 Cajun/Creole ............................74 Cuban/Caribbean .....................74 Casual Dining ...........................60 Coffee/Tea Houses...................81 Deli/Sandwich...........................65 Desserts/Bakery .......................80 Diner/Home Style .....................66 Entertainment Dining................70 European/French......................74 European/German....................74 European/Irish ..........................75 European/Italian .......................75

European/Spanish....................76 Fine Dining ...............................48 Gastropub.................................57 Indian........................................76 Latin American..........................77 Mediterranean/Mid East ...........76 Mexican ....................................77 Microbreweries .........................70 Pizza.........................................61 Seafood ....................................55 Southern/Soul Food .................67 Southwest/Tex Mex ..................79 Steakhouse ..............................56 Upscale Casual ........................49

Area Maps Begin on page 82 Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

2 Dips & A Shake 211 Clover Lane 321 Deli 410 Bakery 502 Bar & Bistro 502Cafe Smokehouse 610 Magnolia 888 Great Wall 8Up Drinkery A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China A Taste of Thai A.J.’s Gyro Café Abyssinia Addis Grill Adrienne & Co. Bakery Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Al Watan Aladdin’s Mediterranean Alley Cat Café Amici Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Ann’s by the River Anoosh Bistro Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi The Arctic Scoop Argo Sons Coffee Arni’s Pizza Arno’s Pizza Aroma Café Artesano Tapas Vino Y Mas Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Wok Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Aspire Café At the Italian Table At the Post Sports Bar & Grill Atlantic No. 5 Atrium Café August Moon B3Q BBQ Backyard Burger Bank Street Brewhouse Bar Code 1758 Baraka Restaurant The Bard’s Town Barry’s Cheese Steaks Bawerchi Baxter’s 942 Bazo’s Mexican Grill Bean Bean Street Coffee Co. Bearno’s Pizza Beef O’Brady’s Bella Roma Bella’s Diner Bendoya Sushi Bar Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Ben’s BBQ Big Four Burgers + Beer Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen BirraCibo

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

79 48 65 80 52 63 48 70 49 60 71 73 76 70 70 80 75 70 76 76 59 75 61 61 73 80 61 67 52 65 75 70 60 72 80 81 61 61 59 76 72 71 71 49 60 59 75 68 59 59 71 63 58 70 72 70 70 65 76 68 77 81 81 61 68 75 66 72 67 63 58 67 75

MAP #

Desserts/Bakery 1 Fine Dining 3 Deli/Sandwich 1 Desserts/Bakery 14 Bistro/New American 8 Barbecue 13 Fine Dining 13 Asian/Chinese 8 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Thai 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 14 African 1 African 1 Desserts/Bakery 14, 16 European/Italian 16 Microbreweries 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 14 Cafés 5 European/Italian 13 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Desserts/Bakery 3 Pizza 1, 12 Cafeterias/Buffet 16 Bistro/New American 7 Deli/Sandwich 1 European/Italian 2 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining [6] Asian/Japanese 10 Desserts/Bakery 5 Coffee/Tea Houses 6 Pizza 14 Pizza 4 Cafés 14 European/Spanish 5 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 2 Casual Dining 3, 11 Cafés 1 European/Italian 2 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 6 Cafés 1 Cafés 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Barbecue 14 Burgers/Chicken 6 Microbreweries 14 Asian/Japanese 2 African 1 Entertainment Dining 2 Deli/Sandwich 13 Indian 2 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Mexican 2, 3, 6 Coffee/Tea Houses 13 Coffee/Tea Houses 14 Pizza [12] Bar & Grill/Taphouse 5, 3, 14 European/Italian 14 Diner/Home Style 13 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Barbecue 16 Burgers/Chicken 14, 16 Southern/Soul Food 1 European/Italian 1

44 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Bistro 1860 Wine Bar 52 Bistro 301 53 Bistro 42 75 Bistro Le Relais 74 BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 68 Blackstone Grille 49 Blaze Fast Fire’d Pizza 61 BLU Italian Grille 75 Blue Bull Burgers & Tacos 58 Blue Dog Bakery 59 Blue Horse Café 59 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 70 Bluegrass Burgers 58 Bombay Grill 76 Bonefish Grill 55 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 61 Book & Bourbon Southern Kitchen67 Boombozz Pizza 61 Boomer’s Café 59 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 63 Borromeo’s Pizza 61 Borsalino Coffee 81 Boudreaux’s Sno-balls 80 Bourbon Raw 49 Bourbons Bistro 53 Brasserie Provence 74 Bravo! 49 Brazeiros Churrascaria 56 Breadworks 80 Brendon’s Catch 23 50 Brian’s Deli 65 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 60 Bristol Bar & Grille 50 Brix Wine Bar 53 Brooke & Billy’s 60 Brooklyn & the Butcher 56 Brownie’s “The Shed” 68 Bruegger’s Bagels 65 Bubba’s 33 68 Buca Di Beppo 75 Buckhead Mountain Grill 60 Buck’s 48 Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue 68 Buffalo Wild Wings 58 Bungalow Joe’s 68 Bunz Restaurant 58 Burger Boy 66 Butcher’s Best 65 Butchertown Grocery 53 Café 157 59 Café 360 76 Café Aroma 77 Café At Main Street 59 Café Lou Lou 53 Café Magnolia 60 Café Mimosa 73 Café On Meigs 59 Café Thuy Van 74 Caffe Classico 59 Cake Flour 80 California Pizza Kitchen 61 Cancun 77 Captain’s Quarters 60 Carali’s Rotisserie Chicken 58 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 60 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 75 Casa Fiesta 77 Caspian Grill Persian Bistro 76 Cast Iron Steakhouse 56 Cat Box Deli 65 Cattleman’s Roadhouse 56 Cellar Door Chocolates 80 Champions Grill 60

MAP #

Bistro/New American 2 Bistro/New American 1 European/Italian 10 European/French 4 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 5 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 3, 5, 8 European/Italian 1 Burgers/Chicken 7 Cafés 2 Cafés 13 Microbreweries 1 Burgers/Chicken 3 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12 Southern/Soul Food 13 Pizza 2,3,6,15 Cafés 1 Barbecue 11 Pizza 13 Coffee/Tea Houses 4 Desserts/Bakery 5 Upscale Casual 1 Bistro/New American 2 European/French 5 Upscale Casual 3 Steakhouse 1 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 Upscale Casual 1 Deli/Sandwich 1 Casual Dining 6 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,16 Bistro/New American 8 Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 14 Bar & Grill/Taphousel 5, 14 Deli/Sandwich 3 Bar & Grill/Taphousel 15 European/Italian 6 Casual Dining 4, 16 Fine Dining 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 12 Burgers/Chicken 2,3,5,6,8,11,12,15 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 11 Burgers/Chicken 2 Diner/Home Style 13 Deli/Sandwich 10 Bistro/New American 2 Cafés 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Mexican 2 Cafés 6 Bistro/New American 3 Casual Dining 1 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Cafés 16 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Cafés 2 Desserts/Bakery 7 Pizza 5 Mexican 5 Casual Dining 10 Burgers/Chicken 6 Casual Dining 13 European/Italian 5 Mexican 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 10, 16 Deli/Sandwich 1 Steakhouse 6, 13 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Casual Dining 16

RESTAURANT

Champions Sports Bar Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Chef’s Cut Pizzeria Chez Seneba African The Chicken House Chicken King Chik’n & Mi Chili’s China 1 China Bistro China Buffet China Café China Castle China Coast China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Chuy’s Ciao Citizen 7 City Barbecue City Café Clarksville Seafood Clay Oven Clifton Donuts Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coals Artisan Pizza Coconut Beach Tacos Coco’s Cakes Coffee Crossing The Coffee Zone Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Con Huevos Cook N’ Company Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Crescent Hill Craft House Cricket’s Café Cuban Flavor Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s Cuvée Wine Table D’Nalley’s Restaurant Daisy Mae’s Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Darkstar On The Creek Dasha Barbour’s Bistro Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle Day’s Espresso Decca Delectabites Bakery Café Del Frisco’s DelFino’s Italian Bistro Derby Café Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Dickey’s Barbecue Pit Difabio’s Casapela Dino’s Bakery DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto’s Grill Divine Treats Dixie Chicken Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow’s Donum Dei Brewery Double Dogs Double Dragon Double Dragon II Double Dragon 9 Down One Bourbon Bar Dragon Café Dragon King’s Daughter Drake’s Dundee Tavern Dunkin’ Donuts Eagle Lake & Restaurant Earth Friends Café East Star Buffet Eat A Pita Eddie Merlot’s Eggroll Machine Eggs Over Frankfort Eiderdown Einstein Brothers Bagels El Burrito Loco El Caporal El Mariachi El Micheladas El Molcajete El Molcajete

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

68 73 61 50 66 59 60 71 50 62 70 58 58 74 60 71 71 71 71 71 71 71 71 71 71 71 71 77 72 71 71 71 71 79 75 77 63 59 55 76 80 62 58 62 77 80 81 81 75 80 77 67 48 57 59 66 66 59 67 59 57 59 74 58 70 56 53 66 67 76 80 65 62 60 67 66 81 50 80 56 75 59 70 80 65 68 63 75 80 62 53 53 80 58 58 50 70 61 71 71 71 57 71 72 68 68 80 55 59 71 76 56 71 53 74 65 77 77 77 77 78 78

MAP #

Bar & Grill/Taphouse 1 Asian/Korean 3 Pizza 16 Upscale Casual 6 Diner/Home Style 13 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 Asian/Chinese 1 Upscale Casual 3 Pizza 5 African 13 Burgers/Chicken 14 Burgers/Chicken 1 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Casual Dining 2, 4, 5, 8, 12, 13, 15 Asian/Chinese 3, 5 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 16 Asian/Chinese 11 Asian/Chinese 12 Mexican 1, 2, 5, 8 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 European/Italian 2 Mexican 8 Barbecue 5 Cafés 1 Seafood 15 Indian 5 Desserts/Bakery 2 Pizza 2 Burgers/Chicken 14, 16 Pizza 3, 5, 13 Mexican 13 Desserts/Bakery 1 Coffee/Tea Houses 14 Coffee/Tea Houses 2 European/Italian 1, 16 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13,14,15 Mexican 2 Southern/Soul Food 13 Fine Dining 8 Gastropub 1 Cafés 5 Diner/Home Style 5 Diner/Home Style 13 Cafés 2 Cafeterias/Buffet 1 Cafés 14 Gastropub 2 Cafés 15 Cuban/Caribbean 11 Burgers/Chicken 6, 15 Microbreweries 2 Seafood 10 Bistro/New American 8 Diner/Home Style 1 Southern/Soul Food 14 Indian 11 Desserts/Bakery 13 Deli/Sandwich 3 Pizza 2 Casual Dining 10 Southern/Soul Food 2 Diner/Home Style 5 Coffee/Tea Houses 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 13 Steakhouse 3 European/Italian 6 Cafés 13 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2 Deli/Sandwich 1 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2, 3 Barbecue 3, 6 European/Italian 2 Desserts/Bakery 4 Pizza 2, 3 Bistro/New American 1 Bistro/New American 2 Desserts/Bakery 15 Burgers/Chicken 1, 12, 13 Burgers/Chicken 1 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 11 Casual Dining 5 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 8,11,12,13 Asian/Chinese 6 Gastropub 1 Asian/Chinese 10 Asian/Japanese 2, 14 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 3, 8 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 3 Desserts/Bakery 2 Seafood 12 Cafés 14 Asian/Chinese 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 1 Asian/Chinese 2 Bistro/New American 2 European/German 13 Deli/Sandwich 1 Mexican 6 Mexican 4, 6 Mexican 5 Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Mexican 13


RESTAURANT

El Mundo El Nopal El Ranchero El Rincon El Rio Grande El Sombrero El Taco Luchador El Tarasco El Torazo El Toro Cantina & Grill The English Grill Equus Exchange Pub + Kitchen Fairdale Pizza The Falafel House Famous Dave’s Fat Jimmy’s FDKY BBQ FeastBBQ Fiesta Time Amigos Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Finn’s Southern Kitchen FireFresh BBQ Firehouse Subs Firenza First Watch First Wok The Fish House The Fishery The Fishery Station Five Guys Burgers Flanagans Ale House Flat 12 Bierwerks Flora Kitchenette Floyd County Brewing Co. Fond Food 4 Ur Soul Fork & Barrel Forty Acres & A Mule Four King’s Café Four Pegs Beer Lounge Franco’s Restaurant Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot Frank’s Meat & Produce Frontier Diner Fuji Asian Bistro Fuji Japanese Steakhouse Funmi’s African Restaurant Galaxie Gallery K Game Gander, An American Grill Garage Bar Gary’s On Spring Gasthaus Gatsby’s On Fourth Geechee Bayou Gelato Gilberto Genghis Grill Gerstle’s Place Ghyslain Gigi’s Cupcakes Gilberto’s Ginza Asian Bistro Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Star Chinese Golden Wall Good Ole’ Jessie’s Goodwood Brewing Co. Goose Creek Diner Gordon Biersch Brewery Gospel Bird Goss Avenue Pub Gracious Plenty Grady’s Burgers & Wings Gralehaus Granville Inn Grape Leaf Great American Grill Great Wall Great Wok Green Leaf Vegetarian Griff’s Grind Burger Kitchen Guaca Mole Gustavo’s Mexican Grill Guy Fieri’s Smokehouse Gypsy’s Sports Grille H.M. Frank’s an O’Shea’s Pub Habana Blues Tapas Half Peach Café Hammerheads Hanabi Japanese Happy China Happy Dragon Hard Rock Café Harley’s Hardwoodz BBQ Harvest Havana Rumba Havana Rumba & Tapas Bar Hawksview Gallery Heart & Soy Heine Brothers Coffee Heitzman Bakery & Deli Hibachi Buffet Hibachi Sushi Buffet Hi-Five Doughnuts Highland Coffee Co. Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn The Hobknobb Coffee Co. Holy Grale Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que Home Run Burgers Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Pizza Honey Creme Donut Shop

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

78 78 78 74 78 78 78 78 78 78 48 50 57 62 76 63 62 63 64 78 78 67 64 65 62 61 71 55 55 55 58 68 70 80 70 50 67 50 67 66 57 67 64 65 66 72 72 70 57 59 61 61 53 50 74 61 74 80 73 68 74 80 77 72 71 67 71 71 66 70 66 70 67 57 59 58 58 68 76 68 71 71 61 68 58 78 78 64 68 58 74 80 54 72 71 71 53 64 51 74 74 59 72 81 80 71 71 80 81 59 68 72 55 68 68 81 54 64 58 80 62 80

MAP #

Mexican 2 Mexican [21] Mexican 4 Cuban/Caribbean 13 Mexican 5 Mexican 16 Mexican 2, 3 Mexican 3, 5, 13 Mexican 6 Mexican 5 Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 3 Gastropub 14 Pizza 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Barbecue 6, 15 Pizza 5 Barbecue 6 Barbecue 1, 14 Mexican 5, 11 Mexican 8 Southern/Soul Food 13 Barbecue 1, 3, 6 Deli/Sandwich 5, 11 Pizza 5 Casual Dining 3, 5 Asian/Chinese 12 Seafood 2, 5 Seafood 3 Seafood 11 Burgers/Chicken 3, 5, 8, 11, 14 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Microbreweries 16 Desserts/Bakery 2 Microbreweries 14 Upscale Casual 2 Southern/Soul Food 1 Upscale Casual 2 Southern/Soul Food 13 Diner/Home Style 4 Gastropub 13 Southern/Soul Food 12 Barbecue 3 Deli/Sandwich 13 Diner/Home Style 12 Asian/Japanese 12 Asian/Japanese 8 African 4 Gastropub 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 5 Bistro/New American 1 Upscale Casual 2 European/German 7 Casual Dining 1 Cajun/Creole 1 Desserts/Bakery 8 Asian/Mongolian 8 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 3 European/French 8 Desserts/Bakery 6 Mexican 6 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Chinese 13 Cafeterias/Buffet [4] Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Diner/Home Style 12 Microbreweries 1 Diner/Home Style 8 Microbreweries 1 Southern/Soul Food 14 Gastropub 13 Cafés 2, 10 Burgers/Chicken 1 Gastropub 2 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 13 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Burgers/Chicken 1 Mexican 5 Mexican 8, 10 Barbecue 1 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 11 Gastropub 16 Cuban/Caribbean 14 Desserts/Bakery 3 Bistro/New American 1 Asian/Japanese 10 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 6 Bistro/New American 1 Barbecue 16 Upscale Casual 1 Cuban/Caribbean 3,5 Cuban/Caribbean 2 Cafés 13 Asian/Japanese 2 Coffee/Tea Houses [14] Desserts/Bakery 5 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 13 Desserts/Bakery 1 Coffee/Tea Houses 2 Cafés 2, 3 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Asian/Japanese 1, 5 Seafood 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 11 Coffee/Tea Houses 14, 16 Bistro/New American 2 Barbecue 13 Burgers/Chicken 3, 5, 6, 13 Desserts [8] Pizza 7 Desserts/Bakery 14 www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 45


RESTAURANT

Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters HopCat Hot Box Eatery Howl at the Moon Hunan Wok IHOP Indi’s Restaurant Irish Rover, The Irma Dee’s Soul Food Iroquois Pizza Israel’s Delicias de Mexico J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Gumbo’s J. Harrods Jack Binion’s Jack Fry’s Jackknife Café Jack’s Lounge Jade Palace Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason’s Deli JB's Pub Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Jersey’s Café Jersey Mike’s Subs Jerusalem Kitchen Jet’s Pizza Jimbo’s BBQ Jimmy John’s Sub Shop JJ Fish & Chicken Joe & Kathy’s Place Joe Huber Restaurant Joella’s Hot Chicken Joe’s Crab Shack John O’Bryan’s Tavern Johnny Brusco’s Pizza The Joy Luck Juba Restaurant Jucy’s Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet Kailana Sushi Kansai Japanese Karem’s Kashmir Indian Kathmandu Kitchen and Bar Kayrouz Café Kern’s Korner Kevin’s Picnic Khalil’s Kim & Bab King Donuts Kingfish King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Kolkin Coffee Koreana II Krispy Krunchy Chicken L & J Asian Cuisine La Bamba La Chasse La Guanaquita La Hacienda Guadalajara La Peche La Popular La Que La Riviera Maya La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra La Torta Loca Lady Tron’s Las Gorditas Latin Café Le Moo Lee’s Korean Lemongrass Café Lenny’s Sub Shop Levee at River House Lilly’s Ling Ling Little Caesars Pizza Little Greek Fresh Grill Little India Café Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Lone Wolf Sports Bar Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Lou Orleans Loui Loui’s Detroit Pizza Louis’s “The Ton” Louisville Coffee Co. Louisville Pizza Co. Louisville Tea Co. LouVino Lovafare Lucky House Luigi’s Lulu’s Frozen Yogurt Luna’s Rotisserie Lydia House Ma Zerellas Maa Sha Allah Main Eatery Main Event Bar & Grill Mai’s Thai Restaurant Mango’s Bar & Grill Manhattan Grill Manhattan Project, The Marco’s Pizza Marketplace Restaurant Mark’s Feed Store Martini Italian Bistro Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint Masa Japanese

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

65 71 68 58 68 59 70 71 61 58 75 67 62 78 51 59 74 51 48 48 80 54 71 80 71 65 68 56 68 65 76 62 64 65 55 66 70 58 55 68 62 71 70 64 72 72 72 61 76 76 59 68 59 68 73 80 55 58 72 81 73 58 72 78 48 77 78 59 78 74 78 78 78 78 65 78 74 56 73 74 65 54 48 72 62 76 76 72 57 78 68 57 65 78 65 74 62 68 81 62 81 54 60 72 62 80 78 54 62 70 65 70 73 78 65 58 62 51 64 75 64 72

MAP #

Deli/Sandwich 3, 11, 14 Asian/Chinese 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Burgers/Chicken 3,13,12,15,16 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Cafés 1 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 11 Casual Dining 6, 15 Burgers/Chicken [8] European/Irish 2 Southern/Soul Food 1 Pizza 13 Mexican 14 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Cajun/Creole 2,6,16 Upscale Casual 10 Fine Dining 14 Fine Dining 2 Desserts/Bakery 2 Bistro/New American 3 Asian/Chinese 5 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 5 Deli/Sandwich 3, 5 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Steakhouse 1 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 15 Deli/Sandwich 5, 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Pizza 2, 3, 5, 8, 11 Barbecue 13 Deli/Sandwich [11] Seafood 16 Diner/Home Style 12 Entertainment Dining 14 Burgers/Chicken 3,5 Seafood 1 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 12 Pizza 8 Asian/Chinese 2, 8 African 1 Barbecue 5 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 Casual Dining 8 Indian 2 Indian 4 Cafés 3 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Cafés 5 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 12 Asian/Korean 14 Desserts/Bakery 5 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Burgers/Chicken 13 Asian/Japanese 16 Coffee/Tea Houses 14 Asian/Korean 13 Burgers/Chicken 13 Asian/Chinese 10 Mexican 2 Fine Dining 2 Latin American 13 Mexican 13 Cafés 2 Mexican 13 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 5, 13 Mexican 11 Mexican 13 Diner/Home Style 14 Mexican 11 Cuban/Caribbean 8 Steakhouse 2 Asian/Korean 13 Asian/Vietnamese 5 Deli/Sandwich 4 Bistro/New American 7 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza [15] Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Indian 4 Asian/Chinese 5 Steakhouse 6, 12, 15 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 12 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 Deli/Sandwich 2 Mexican 5, 10 Deli/Sandwich 3 Cajun/Creole 1 Pizza 6 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 1 Coffee/Tea Houses 6 Pizza 6 Coffee/Tea Houses 5 Bistro/New American 2, 5 Cafés 2 Asian/Chinese 3 Pizza 1 Desserts/Bakery 2 Mexican 13 Bistro/New American 13 Pizza 15 African 4 Deli/Sandwich 1 Entertainment Dining 6 Asian/Thai 16 Mexican 3, 6, 13 Deli/Sandwich 1 Gastropub 2 Pizza 14 Upscale Casual 1 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 European/Italian 8 Barbecue 8 Asian/Japanese 5

46 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANT

Masala Grill Match Cigar Bar Mayan Café McAlister’s Deli Me Gusta Latin Kitchen Mellow Mushroom Melrose Café The Melting Pot Mercato Italiano Merle’s Whiskey Kitchen Mesh Mexa Tacos Mexican Fiesta Mi Cocina on Fourth Mi Sueño Migo Mikato Japanese Mike Linnig’s Mike’s Tavern MilkWood Mimi’s Café Mimo’s Pizzeria Mirage Mediterranean Grill Mirin Miss Ada’s Mitchell’s Fish Market Moca Diner MOD Pizza Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone’s Momma’s Mustard, Pickles Momma’s Pizza Monnik Beer Co. More Shenanigan’s Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mozza Pi Mr. Gattis Mr. Lee’s Ichiban Japanese Mrs. Potter’s Coffee Mt. Fuji Muscle Monkey Café Mussel & Burger Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nahyla’s Restaurant Naila’s Caribbean Cuisine NamNam Café Nancy’s Bagel Box Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill New Albanian Brewing Co. New Albany Roadhouse New China New Direction Bar & Grill New Wave Burritos Noodles & Company Noosh Nosh Nord’s Bakery North End Café O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub The Oakroom Oishii Sushi Old Chicago Old Hickory Inn Old Louisville Tavern Old School NY Pizza Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ O-Line Sports Grill The Olive Garden Olive Leaf Bistro Ollie’s Trolley Onion Restaurant & Tea Houses Orange Clover Kitchen Oriental Café Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s Osaka Sushi Bar Outback Steakhouse Over the 9 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro Panda Chinese Panda Express Panera Bread Co. Papa John’s Papa Murphy’s Pizza Parlour Pasha’s Mediterranean Passtime Fish House Patrick O’Shea’s Pat’s Steak House Paul’s Fruit Market Pearl Street Taphouse Pearl Street Treats Peking City Bistro Peking City Express Penn Station Peppers Bar and Grill Perfetto Pizza Pesto’s Italian Pho Ba Luu Pho Café Pieology Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill Pita Pit Pizza Donisi Pizza King Pizza Place Planet Bar & Bistro Please & Thank You Pleasure Ridge Place Plehn’s Bakery Plump Peacock Bakery PokeHana Ponderosa Steakhouse

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76 54 78 66 77 62 60 51 75 54 51 78 78 78 74 78 72 55 68 48 61 62 76 61 67 56 66 62 79 76 75 64 62 70 75 66 57 62 62 72 81 72 66 58 80 70 77 74 74 66 66 51 68 62 61 72 68 78 61 54 80 60 61 66 75 48 72 62 68 68 62 75 51 64 69 76 54 58 72 60 72 72 72 62 72 57 70 55 72 72 66 62 62 62 76 56 75 57 66 69 80 72 72 66 69 62 76 74 74 62 78 76 62 62 62 69 81 62 80 60 72 57

MAP #

Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bistro/New American 14, 16 Mexican 1 Deli/Sandwich [9] Latin American 1 Pizza 2, 3 Cafés 10 Upscale Casual 6 European/Italian 8 Bistro/New American 1 Upscale Casual 3 Mexican 3 Mexican 4 Mexican 14 Cuban/Caribbean 4 Mexican 2 Asian/Japanese 8 Seafood 12 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 14 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 5 Pizza 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Casual Dining 2 Southern/Soul Food 1 Seafood 8 Diner/Home Style 8 Pizza 4 Southwest/TexMex 3,6,8,11,15 European/Spanish 7 European/Irish 2, 3 Barbecue 3, 5 Pizza 15 Microbreweries 13 European/Irish 4 Deli/Sandwich 1, 2 Steakhouse 1 Pizza 5 Pizza 12, 13, 15 Asian/Japanese 3 Coffee/Tea Houses 1 Asian/Japanese 13 Deli/Sandwich 6,8,15 Burgers/Chicken 1, 6 Desserts/Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 13 Latin American 5 Cuban/Caribbean 15 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Deli/Sandwich 1 Deli/Sandwich 2 Upscale Casual 5 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 14 Pizza 14 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 5 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 5 Mexican 13 Casual Dining 6, 8 Bistro/New American 7 Desserts/Bakery 13 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 Diner/Home Style 13 European/Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 Asian/Japanese 4 Pizza 6, 8 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Pizza 5 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 5 Barbecue 11 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 8 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Bistro/New American 16 Burgers/Chicken 1 Asian/Chinese 14 Cafés 16 Asian/Chinese 4 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 13 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 Microbreweries 1 Bistro/New American 5 Asian/Chinese 10 Asian/Chinese 5, 6, 8, 15 Deli/Sandwich [10] Pizza [30] Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Pizza 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Seafood 6 European/Irish 1 Steakhouse 2 Deli/Sandwich 3, 4, 5, 7 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 16 Desserts/Bakery 16 Asian/Chinese 5 Asian/Chinese 3 Deli/Sandwich [17] Bar & Grill/Taphouse 1 Pizza 6 European/Italian 1 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Pizza 6 Mexican 12 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 13 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Coffee/Tea Houses 1, 2 Pizza 12, 13 Desserts/Bakery 3 Cafés 5 Asian/Japanese 1 Steakhouse 13

RESTAURANT

Porcini Portage House Potbelly Sandwich Shop Press on Market Primo’s Delicatessen Prince Hookah Lounge Proof On Main Prospect Café Puerto Vallarta Qdoba Mexican Grill Queen of Sheba Queue Café Quick Wok Quill’s Coffee Quizno’s Subs Rafferty’s of Louisville Rails Craft Brew & Eatery Raising Cane’s Ramiro’s Cantina Ramsi’s Café Recbar Red Barn Kitchen Red Herring Red Hog Red Hot Roasters Red Robin Red Sun Chinese Red Yeti Brewing Co. Rice Bowl River City Drafthouse River City Winery Riverhouse Restaurant River Road BBQ Riverside Café Rivue ROC Restaurant Rocky’s Pizza & Panini Rocky’s Sub Pub Romano’s Macaroni Grill Roof Top Grill Roosters Rootie’s Sports Bar Roots Roosters Royal’s Hot Chicken Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar Rubbin’ Butts BBQ Ruby Tuesday Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse Rye Safai Coffee Safari Grill Saffron’s Safier Mediterranean Deli Saint’s Sake Blue Sakura Blue Sala Thai Sal’s Pizza & Wings Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina Sam’s Food & Spirits Sam’s Gyro Sam’s Hot Dog Stand Samurai Santa Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Sarang Scarlet’s Bakery Scene Schlotzsky’s Deli Scotty’s Ribs & More Seafood Lady Seeds & Greens Deli Selena’s Willow Lake Tavern Señor Iguana’s Sergio’s World Beers SET at Theater Square Seviche A Latin Restaurant Shack In The Back BBQ Shady Lane Café Shah’s Mongolian Grill Shalimar Indian Shark’s Seafood Shawn’s Southern BBQ Shenanigan’s Irish Grille Shiraz Mediterranean Grill Shirley Mae’s Café Shogun Shoney’s Sichuan Garden Sicilian Pizza & Pasta Sidebar The Silver Dollar Silvio’s Italian Restaurant Simply Thai Sin Fronteras Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor Sister Bean’s Skyline Chili Smashburger Smoke & Rye Smokehouse BBQ Smokey Bones BBQ Snappy Tomato Sol Aztecas Somewhere Louisville Soupy’s Southern Express Spaghetti Shop Spinelli’s Pizzeria Sporting News Grill The Sports & Social Club Spread Buffet, The Spring St. Bar & Grill Stadium Joes Sports Café Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starlight Coffee Co. Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak N Shake

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76 61 66 81 66 76 51 60 78 78 70 60 72 81 66 61 69 58 78 60 69 67 69 60 81 58 72 70 73 69 55 51 64 60 49 76 63 63 76 74 58 69 73 58 58 64 64 61 56 57 52 81 70 77 77 69 73 73 73 62 79 61 77 61 73 79 73 73 80 67 66 64 56 66 74 79 69 55 49 64 60 73 76 56 64 75 77 67 73 61 72 63 55 55 76 73 79 63 81 61 58 55 65 65 63 79 55 66 67 76 63 69 69 68 69 69 73 81 81 60 80 59

MAP #

European/Italian 2 Casual Dining 16 Deli/Sandwich 1, 6, 8 Coffee/Tea Houses 1 Deli/Sandwich 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 10 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Mexican [17] African 4 Cafés 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Coffee/Tea Houses 2, 13, 14 Deli/Sandwich 1, 5,14,15 Casual Dining 3, 8 Bar & Grill/Taproom 15 Burgers/Chicken 2, 5, 8, 11, 12 Mexican 2 Cafés 2 Bar & Grill/Taproom 14 Southern/Soul Food 5 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Cafés 2 Coffee/Tea Houses 2 Burgers/Chicken 3, 8 Asian/Chinese 4 Microbreweries 16 Asian/Korean 14 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Bistro/New American 4 Upscale Casual 7 Barbecue 7 Cafés 16 Fine Dining 1 European/Italian 2 Pizza 4 Pizza 16 European/Italian 5 Cuban/Caribbean 1 Burgers/Chicken 5, 11, 12,13,15 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 8 Asian/Japanese 2 Burgers/Chicken 5 Burgers/Chicken 1 Barbecue 13 Barbecue 15 Casual Dining 6 Seafood 5 Steakhouse 3 Upscale Casual 1 Coffee/Tea Houses 2 African 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 3 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 11 Pizza 5 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5 Casual Dining 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 6 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 5 Mexican 13 Asian/Japanese 2 Asian/Korean 2 Desserts/Bakery 13 Southern/Soul Food 1 Deli/Sandwich 8 Barbecue 5 Seafood 1 Deli/Sandwich 14 Cajun/Creole 5 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 11, 13, 15 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Bistro/New American 1 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 13 Cafés 7 Asian/Mongolian 6 Indian 6 Seafood 4 Barbecue 14 European/Irish 2 Mediterranean/ME 1, 5, 7, 8,13 Southern/Soul Food 1 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 13 Asian/Chinese 6 Pizza 1, 11 Bistro/New American 1 Bistro/New American 2 European/Italian 3 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Mexican 15 Pizza 15 Coffee/Tea Houses 13 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Burgers/Chicken 1, 5, 13 Bistro/New American 14 Barbecue 11 Barbecue 6 Pizza 8 Mexican 2, 11 Bistro/New American 2 Deli/Sandwich 4 Southern/Soul Food 13 European/Italian 11, 14 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8, 12, 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 1 Cafeterias/Buffet 14 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 6 Asian/Japanese 16 Coffee/Tea Houses [35] Coffee/Tea Houses 14 Deli/Sandwich 5 Desserts/Bakery 8 Burgers/Chicken [6]


RESTAURANT

Steel City Pops Stevens & Stevens Deli Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen Stoney River Stout Burgers & Beer Stricker’s Café Sub Station II Sue’s Touch of Country Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sullivan’s Tap House Sunergos Coffee SuperChefs Sway Sweets Frog Sweet Peaches Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets By Morgan Taco Steve Taco Tico Tacqueria La Mexicana Taj Palace TanThai Restaurant Taqueria Ramirez Tavern On Fourth Taziki’s Mediterranean Café Tea Station Chinese Bistro Teena’s Pizza Texas Roadhouse TGI Friday’s Thai Café Thai Noodles That Place On Goss The Back Door The Bakery The Bistro The Block Gourmet Deli The Café The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The Corner The Cure Lounge The Eagle The Fat Lamb The Fudgery The Goat The Hub Louisville The Goat The Krush The Pearl The Post The Spread Buffet The Table Tienda La Chapinlandia Tikka House Time 4 Thai Tin Roof Toast On Market ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tomo Tony Impellizzeri’s Toonerville Deli Topp’t Pizza & Chopped Salad Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tsubaki Sushi & Bar Tucker’s Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Twig & Leaf Restaurant Uptown Café Urban Bread Co. Varanese Verbena Café Vic’s Café Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Ville Taqueria Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen Vincenzo’s Vint Coffee Vis a Vis Bar & Gril Volare W.W. Cousin’s Wagner’s Pharmacy Wall Street Deli Ward 426 Way Cool Café Webb’s Market Wei Wei Chinese Express Which Wich? Wick’s Pizza Wild Dog Rose Tea Boutique Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion Wild Rita’s William’s Bakery Wiltshire at the Speed Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery The Wing Zone Wingstop Wonton Express World of Beer Yaching’s East West Cuisine Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching Yen Hapa Yoki Buffet You-Carryout-A Yummy Pollo Zäd Modern Mediterranean Zanzabar Za’s Pizza Zaxby’s Zegg’z Amazing Eggs Zen Garden Zoe’s Kitchen Zoup! Z’s Oyster Bar

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

80 66 76 57 59 60 66 67 80 69 81 61 52 80 66 81 81 81 79 79 79 76 73 79 69 77 72 63 57 61 73 73 61 69 81 67 66 60 60 60 63 69 59 55 81 69 55 69 69 69 63 67 60 79 76 73 70 61 73 73 73 63 66 63 70 73 61 79 76 61 52 55 52 60 60 74 55 79 66 49 81 70 76 59 66 66 49 60 67 72 66 63 81 60 73 79 81 55 52 60 59 59 72 58 52 72 79 72 74 72 72 77 77 70 63 59 60 74 77 66 49

MAP #

Desserts/Bakery 2 Deli/Sandwich 2 European/Italian 7 Steakhouse 8 Burgers/Chicken 2 Cafés 16 Deli/Sandwich 13 Southern/Soul Food 12 Desserts/Bakery 11 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 3 Coffee/Tea Houses 1, 13 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery [5] Deli/Sandwich 1 Desserts/Bakery 14 Desserts/Bakery 2 Desserts/Bakery 16 Mexican 14 Mexican 12 Mexican 13 Indian 8 Asian/Thai 14 Mexican 11 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 5 Asian/Chinese 8 Pizza 13 Steakhouse 2, 5, 12, 13, 15 Casual Dining 1 Asian/Thai 7 Asian/Thai 13 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 2 Desserts/Bakery 4 Cafeterias/Buffet 3 Deli/Sandwich 5 Cafés 1 Cafés 3 Cafés 3 Pizza 8 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Burgers/Chicken 2 Bistro/New American 2 Desserts/Bakery 1 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 5 Bistro/New American 2 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 5 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Pizza 13 Cafeterias/Buffet 14 Cafés 1 Mexican 13 Indian 3 Asian/Thai 2 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 3 Casual Dining 1, 14 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Japanese 7 Asian/Japanese 14 Pizza 14 Deli/Sandwich 1 Pizza 14 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 1 Asian/Japanese 5 Casual Dining 14 Southwest/Tex Mex [10] European/Italian 13 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 7 Bistro/New American 14, 16 Upscale Casual 2 Cafés 8 Cafés 14 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Bistro/New American 5 Mexican 3 Deli/Sandwich 5 Fine Dining 1, 4 Coffee/Tea Houses 2 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 1 European/Italian 2 Burgers/Chicken 3 Diner/Home Style 13 Deli/Sandwich 1 Fine Dining 2 Cafés 1 Diner/Home Style 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Deli/Sandwich 8 Pizza 2, 5, 8, 14 Coffee/Tea Houses 2 Cafés 1, 3, 5, 15 Asian/Japanese 2, 8 Mexican 1 Desserts/Bakery 15 Bistro/New American 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Burgers/Chicken 4, 13 Burgers/Chicken 6, 12 Asian/Chinese 4 Gastropub 8 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 2, 5 Mexican 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 15 Latin American 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Bar & Grill/Taphouse 13 Pizza 2 Burgers/Chicken 5, 12, 13, 14, 16 Cafés 5, 7, 8 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1,3,8 Deli/Sandwich 1 Fine Dining 5 www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 47


GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser = Breakfast À = Brunch  = Lunch

= Dinner

]

= Late Night

e = Full Bar

OPEN TILL/PAST 11 PM

[ = Outdoor Dining = Z Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812 or 930.

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V…œœÃiÊ …ˆi>˜Ê Ãi>Ê L>ÃÃ]Ê œLÃÌiÀÊ Ì>ˆ]Ê À>VŽ œvÊ >“LÊ œÀÊ >Ê V…œˆViÊ œvÊ «Àˆ“iÊ ÃÌi>Ž]Ê ˆ˜VÕ`ˆ˜}Ê 7>}ÞÕ Ìi˜`iÀœˆ˜°ÊffffÊ ]e  Ê ,9½- £ääÇÊ >À`ÃÌœÜ˜Ê ,`°]Ê {xӇ™Ó{{°Ê ˜Ãˆ`iÊ ˆÌà ՘«Ài«œÃÃiÃȘ}ÊiÝÌiÀˆœÀʈÃʜ˜iʜvʜՈÃۈi½Ãʏœ˜}iÃ̇ À՘˜ˆ˜}Ê̜«ÊÌ>LiðÊ-i>̈˜}ʈÃÊ̈}…ÌÆʈÌʈÃʘœˆÃÞÆÊLÕÌÊ̅i vœœ`ʈÃÊVœ˜ÃˆÃÌi˜ÌÞÊiÝVii˜Ì°Ê …ivÊV >ˆ˜Ê ÀœÜ˜Ê…>à >``i`Ê ÌœÊ V>ÃÈVÊ “i˜ÕÊ ˆÌi“ÃÊ Ì…>ÌÊ Ài}Տ>ÀÃÊ œÛiÊ Ü…ˆi }À>`Õ>ÞÊ ˆ˜ÌÀœ`ÕVˆ˜}Ê Ãœ“iÊ ˜iÜÊ VœœŽˆ˜}Ê ÌiV…ʘˆµÕið ffffÊ ]eZ Ê -- Ê £Îx™Ê >À`ÃÌœÜ˜Ê ,`°]Ê nÓӇΙÈÎ°Ê …iv iÝ>˜`iÀÊ Õ>˜iÞÊ>˜`Ê«>À̘iÀÊÃ>>VÊœÝ]ÊÛiÌiÀ>˜Ãʜv iÊ ,i>ˆÃÊ >˜`Ê 6œ>Ài]Ê >ˆ“Ê vœÀÊ Ì…iÊ >“Lˆi˜ViÊ œvÊ >Ê vˆ˜i ÕÀœ«i>˜ÊVœÕ˜ÌÀÞʈ˜˜Ê>ÌÊ̅iÊë>ViÊ̅>ÌÊvœÀʓ>˜ÞÊÞi>Àà Ü>ÃÊ *>iÀ“œÊ 6ˆiœ°Ê /…iÊ vÀiµÕi˜ÌÞ‡V…>˜}ˆ˜}Ê “i˜Õ >Ü>ÞÃÊ ˆ˜VÕ`iÃÊ Ãœ“iÊ }>“iÊ `ˆÃ…iÃÊ ­À>LLˆÌ]Ê «…i>Ã>˜Ì] iŽ®]ʅ>À`iÀ‡Ìœ‡vˆ˜`ʈÌi“ÃʏˆŽiÊÃÜiiÌLÀi>`ÃÊ>˜`ʜV̜«ÕÃ] >˜`Ê՘ÕÃÕ>ÊÃ>>`ðÊffff ]e 9½- ££{ÇÊ >À`ÃÌœÜ˜Ê ,`°]Ê {x£‡ä{{Ç°Ê Ê œÕˆÃۈi ˆ˜Ã̈ÌṎœ˜Ê vœÀÊ “œÀiÊ Ì…>˜Ê >Ê µÕ>ÀÌiÀ‡Vi˜ÌÕÀÞ]Ê ˆÞ½Ã] ՘`iÀÊ “ÕV…Ê …iÀ>`i`Ê œÜ˜iÀ‡V…ivÊ >̅ÞÊ >ÀÞ] Vœ˜Ìˆ˜ÕiÃÊ̜ÊLiÊ>ÃÊvÀiÅÊ>ÃÊ̅iʏœV>Þ‡ÃœÕÀVi`Êvœœ`ÃÊÅi vi>ÌÕÀiÃÊ œ˜Ê …iÀÊ i˜ÌÕVŽÞ‡>VVi˜Ìi`Ê “i˜ÕÃ]Ê Ü…ˆV… V…>˜}iÊ “œ˜Ì…Þ°Ê ,iVi˜ÌÊ ˆÌi“Ã\Ê «ˆ“i˜ÌœÊ V…iiÃi ܜ˜Ìœ˜Ã]ÊÛi>ÊÃV>œ««ˆ˜ˆÊœÛiÀʅœ“i“>`iʏˆ˜}Ո˜ˆ]Ê>˜` >Ê >À“iÀ½ÃÊ *>ÌiÊ LՈÌÊ >ÀœÕ˜`Ê >Ê “ÕÅÀœœ“Ê ÀˆVœÌÌ> ÃÌÕvvi`Êi}}«>˜Ì°ÊffffÊ ÀÊ e 7"" ΣÈÊ7°Ê>ˆ˜Ê-Ì°]Êxn{‡È{xx°Ê"ܘiÀÊ `Ü>À` iiʅ>Ãʓ>`iÊ̅iÊ`œÜ˜ÃÌ>ˆÀÃÊë>ViÊ>ÌÊV̜ÀÃÊ/…i>ÌÀiÊ> `ˆ˜ˆ˜}Ê`iÃ̈˜>̈œ˜°Ê/…iʓi˜Õ]ʘœÜÊ՘`iÀÊ̅iÊVœ˜ÌÀœÊœv i˜˜Ê œÕ}>˜]Ê Li˜`ÃÊ È>˜Ê >˜`Ê -œÕ̅iÀ˜Ê ˆ˜vÕi˜Vià ­Ã“œŽi`ÊV…ˆVŽi˜Ê܈˜}Ã]Ê«ˆ“i˜ÌœÊV…iiÃiÊ܈̅Ê뜜˜Lˆ V>ۈ>À]ÊÀ>“i˜Ê˜œœ`iÃÊ܈̅ÊňˆÌ>ŽiÊ>˜`ÊVœÕ˜ÌÀÞʅ>“® >˜`ʅ>ÃÊÀiViˆÛi`ʘ>̈œ˜>Ê>ÌÌi˜Ìˆœ˜°ÊfffÊ e / Ê","" xääÊ-°ÊœÕÀ̅Ê-Ì°Ê­-iiL>V…ÊœÌi®]Êxnx‡ ÎÓää°Ê/…iÊ`>ÀŽ]ʵՈiÌ]Êii}>˜ÌÊvœÀ“>Ê">ŽÀœœ“Ê>ÌÊ̅i -iiL>V…Ê …>ÃÊ Lii˜Ê >Ê `iÃ̈˜>̈œ˜Ê `ˆ˜ˆ˜}Ê Ã«œÌÊ Ãˆ˜ViÊ ° -VœÌÌʈÌâ}iÀ>`Ê>ÌiÊ̅iÀi°Ê/…iÊÊx‡ÃÌ>ÀÊÀ>̈˜}ÊȘVi £™™nʅ>ÃÊLii˜Ê>Ê`À>Ü]ʜvÊVœÕÀÃi]ÊLÕÌʏœV>ÃÊ}œÊvœÀÊ̅i

RED = Advertiser = Breakfast À = Brunch  = Lunch = Dinner


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n1*Ê  6/ Ê ,  ,9Ê Ê/  ÎxäÊ7°

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www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 49


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RED = Advertiser = Breakfast À = Brunch  = Lunch = Dinner


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] = Late Night e = Full Bar [ = Outdoor Dining Z = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 51


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52 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser = Breakfast À = Brunch  = Lunch = Dinner


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www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 53


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RED = Advertiser = Breakfast À = Brunch  = Lunch = Dinner


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] = Late Night e = Full Bar [ = Outdoor Dining Z = Live Music

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www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 55


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www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 57


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Named in “The 100 Best Barbecue Restaurants in America” as • One of America’s top BBQ restaurants • Highest Rated Wings in America

mommasbbq.com

Proudly donated over $168,000 to local charities through our “2% for Louisville” program!

Dine-In • Carry-Out • Catering

119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.

290-7998

64 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK, 11am - 10pm

VOTED BEST WINGS IN LOUISVILLE

102 Bauer Ave.

938-MAMA (6262)

RED = Advertiser = Breakfast À = Brunch  = Lunch = Dinner


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www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 67


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www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 69


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RED = Advertiser = Breakfast À = Brunch  = Lunch = Dinner


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www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 77


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œvviiÊ >ŽiÊœÕÃiÊ>˜`ʓœÃÌÊÀiVi˜ÌÞÊ*i>ÃiÊ>˜`Ê/…>˜Ž 9œÕʜ˜Ê̅iÊÛi˜Õiʈ˜Ê ÀiÃVi˜Ìʈ°Êf  [ *, --Ê " Ê , /Ê ÓxÓÊ °Ê >ÀŽiÌÊ -Ì°]Ê Ó™ä‡Ó£nä° œV>Ìi`Ê ˆ˜]Ê LÕÌÊ Ãi«>À>ÌiÊ vÀœ“]Ê Ì…iÊ ˜iÜÊ ÕViÕà ,iÃi>ÀV…Ê *>ÀŽÊ œ˜Ê ̅iÊ i`}iÊ œvÊ ÕÕ]Ê Ì…ˆÃÊ ÌÀ>`ˆÌˆœ˜> VœvviiÊ …œÕÃiÊ ÃiÀÛiÃÊ À}œÊ >˜`Ê -œ˜ÃÊ VœvviiÃ]Ê “Üœœ` ˜˜ÊÌi>Ã]Ê>˜`ÊVÕÃ̜“Ê>À̈Ã>˜ÊL>Ži`Ê}œœ`ÃÊ«ÀœÛˆ`i`Ê/œ“ `Ü>À`ÃÊ œvÊ œÕˆÃ“ˆÊ vœÕÀÃ°Ê /…iÊ ÃÌÀˆŽˆ˜}Ê `œÜ˜ÌœÜ˜ ë>ViÊ܈Êˆ˜VÕ`iÊ>ÊVœÕÀÌÞ>À`°ÊfÊ[ +1½-Ê " Ê-"*ʙÎäÊ >ÝÌiÀÊÛi°]ÊÇ{Ӈȣә]ÊÎÓÇ 7°Ê >À`ˆ˜>Ê Û`°]Ê È™ä‡xxxÎ]Ê £ÎÇÊ °Ê >ÀŽiÌÊ -Ì°]Ê iÜ L>˜ÞÊ  ]Ê x™ä‡Î{ÓÈ°Ê >˜ÃÊ œvÊ Ì…ˆÃÊ œV>Ê «ÕÀÛiޜÀÊ œv iÝVii˜ÌÊ VœvviiÊ >˜`Ê «ÀœÊۈ`iÀÊ œvÊ >“i˜>LiÊ ÜœÀŽˆ˜} ë>ViÃÊ V>˜Ê vˆ˜`Ê Ì…iˆÀÊ V>vviˆ˜iÊ vˆÝÊ >˜`Ê Üˆ‡vˆÊ …œÌëœÌÊ >Ì >˜ÞʜvÊ̅iÊ̅ÀiiʏœV>̈œ˜Ã°ÊfÊ[ , Ê "/Ê ,"-/ ,- £Î™™Ê i݈˜}̜˜Ê ,`°]Ê xș‡ääää° /…iÊ œÀˆ}ˆ˜>Ê `ÀˆÛi‡Ì…ÀœÕ}…Ê œˆ˜ÌÊ …>ÃÊ “œÛi`Ê >VÀœÃà i݈˜}̜˜Ê,`°Ê̜ʏ>À}iÀʵÕ>ÀÌiÀÃ°Ê Ûi˜Ê˜iÜiÀÊ>``ˆÌˆœ˜>

`ˆ}ÃÊ >ÀiÊ «>˜˜i`Ê vœÀÊ Ì…iÊ ˜i>ÀÊ vÕÌÕÀiÊ ˆ˜Ê ̅iÊ ÕÌV…iÀ œVŽÊ`iÛiœ«“i˜Ìʜ˜Ê>ˆ˜Ê-Ì°]Ê܅iÀiÊʜܘiÀÊ-œ˜`À> *œÜiÊ ܈Ê …œÕÃiÊ Ì…iÊ LÕȘiÃýÃÊ Àœ>Ã̈˜}Ê œ«iÀ>̈œ˜Ã] >˜`Ê …>ÛiÊ iÝ«>˜`i`Ê vœœ`Ê œvviÀˆ˜}ÃÊ >œ˜}Ê ÜˆÌ…Ê ˆ˜`œœÀ >˜`ʜÕÌ`œœÀÊV>vjÊÃi>̈˜}°ÊfÊ -Ê " Ê £ÇäÇÊ >À`ÃÊÌœÜ˜Ê ,`°]Ê În{‡Îxxx°Ê /…ˆÃ V>ÃÕ>Ê ëœÌÊ Lœ>ÃÌÃÊ Ì…iÊ >“Lˆi˜ViÊ œvÊ >Ê vÀˆi˜`ÞÊ œ`‡ v>ňœ˜i`ÊLœœŽÊŜ«]Ê܈̅ÊVœ“ÊvœÀÌ>LiÊÃi>̈˜}]ʅœÕÃi‡ “>`iÊVÀi«iÃ]Ê>˜`ÊÀœ>ÃÌi`‡œ˜‡ÃˆÌiÊVœvvii°ÊfÊ  [ --/ ,Ê  ½- xÓÓxÊ iÜÊ ÕÌÊ,`°]ÊÎÈ{‡äänÓ°ÊfÊ[ -/, 1 -Ê " ­ÎxʏœV>̈œ˜Ã®ÊfÊ[ -/,/Ê " Ê "° Î£Î£Ê À>˜ÌÊ ˆ˜iÊ ,`°]Ê iÜ L>˜ÞÊ ]Êx{Ӈ£xÓÓ°Ê/…ˆÃÊÈÃÌiÀʜÕ̏iÌÊÌœÊ i>˜Ê-ÌÀiiÌ

œvviiÊ >ÃœÊ «Àœ`ÕViÃÊ …ˆ}…Ê µÕ>ˆÌÞÊ œiÊ ÌœÊ Ì…œÃiÊ œ˜Ê ̅i Õ««iÀÊvÀˆ˜}iÃʜvÊ iÜʏL>˜Þ°Ê˜ÊLœÌ…ÊޜÕÊV>˜Êvˆ˜`Ê> ̅iÊ«œ«Õ>ÀÊÛ>ÀˆïiÃʜvÊVœvviiÊ>˜`ÊV…>ˆ]Ê>ÃÊÜiÊ>ÃÊL>Ži` }œœ`ÃÊvÀœ“Ê`Àˆi˜˜i½Ãʈ˜ÊivviÀܘۈi°ÊfÊ[ -1 ,"-Ê " Ó£ÓÓÊ-°Ê*ÀiÃ̜˜Ê-Ì°]ÊÈÎ{‡£Ó{Î]ÊÎäÈ 7°Ê 7œœ`>Ü˜Ê Ûi°]Ê ÎÈn‡ÓnÓä]Ê ÓÎ£Ê -°Ê ˆvÌ…Ê -Ì°]Ê xn™‡ ÎÓÓÓ°Ê>Ì̅iÜÊÕiÃÌi`Ê>˜`Ê Àˆ>˜ÊˆiÀÊÕÃi`Ê̜ÊÀœ>ÃÌ Ì…iˆÀÊ œÜ˜Ê VœvviiÊ Li>˜ÃÊ >ÃÊ >Ê …œLLÞ°Ê /…iˆÀÊ vÀˆi˜`ÃÊ Ã>ˆ` ̅iÞÊ`ˆ`ʈÌÊÜÊÜi]Ê̅iÞÊŜՏ`ÊÌÕÀ˜Ê«ÀœÊpÊ̅iÊÀiÃՏÌʈà -՘iÀ}œÃÊ œvvii°ÊfÊ 6 /Ê " ÊÓÎä™ÊÀ>˜ŽvœÀÌÊÛi°]Ên™{‡näÈä]Ê"ܘi`ÊLÞ iˆ˜iÊ ÀœÃ°Ê̅ˆÃÊ ÀiÃVi˜ÌʈÊœV>̈œ˜ÊˆÃÊ̅iʜ˜Þʜ˜i ̅>ÌÊ Žii«ÃÊ Ì…iÊ ˜>“iÊ Ì…>ÌÊ ÀiviVÌÃÊ Ì…iÊ Vœ˜Vi«ÌÊ Ì…>ÌÊ > ̅iˆÀÊLiÛiÀ>}iÃÊpÊVœvvii]ÊÌi>]Ê>iÊ>˜`Ê܈˜iÊpÊ܈Êº…>Ûi >Êۈ˜Ì>}i]Ê>˜Ê>˜˜Õ>ÊÀii>ÃiÊVÞVi°»ÊfÊ[ 7 Ê "Ê ,"- Ê / Ê "1/+1 Ê £xÇäÊ >À`Ã̜ܘ ,`°]ʙ™È‡Ç{{ä°Ê9œÕÊV>˜Êvˆ˜`Ê>Ê̅ˆ˜}ÃÊ iÜÊ}iÊ>ÌÊ̅ˆÃ Ìi>Ê>˜`ÊLœœŽÊŜ«°Ê˜Ê>``ˆÌˆœ˜Ê̜Ê`œâi˜ÃʜvÊÌi>Ã]Ê7ˆ`

œ}Ê ,œÃiÊ Ã̜VŽÃÊ VÀÞÃÌ>Ã]Ê iÃÃi˜Ìˆ>Ê œˆÃ]Ê LœœŽÃÊ >˜` L>Ži`Ê }œœ`ÃÊ ÃÕV…Ê >ÃÊ ÃVœ˜iÃ]Ê Ìi>‡ˆ˜vÕÃi`Ê ÌÀÕvviÃÊ >˜` “Õvvˆ˜Ã°Ê /i>Ê Ãœ`Ê LÞÊ Ì…iÊ VÕ«]Ê œÀÊ ˆ˜Ê LՏŽ]Ê >˜`Ê V>˜Ê Li VÕÃ̜“‡Li˜`i`Ê̜ÊÃՈÌÊ>ÊVÕÃ̜“iÀ½ÃÊ«ÀiviÀi˜ViðÊf

 Ê££ÎnÊœÃÃÊÛi°]ÊÇnx‡{äǙ°ÊfÊ  ",- "Ê " Ê Ê 1,"*  Ê*-/,9‡  ÎnÓxÊ >À`ÃÌœÜ˜Ê ,`°]Ê näLJxÎÓx°Ê /…ˆÃÊ ÕiV…iÊ Ã̜ÀiÊ ˆÃ ܓi܅iÀiÊLiÌÜii˜Ê>ÊVœvviiÊŜ«]Ê>Êv>˜VÞÊL>ŽiÀÞÊ>˜`Ê> `iˆ°Ê9œÕÊV>˜ÊÃ̜«Êˆ˜ÊvœÀÊޜÕÀʓœÀ˜ˆ˜}ÊVœvviiÊ>˜`ÊÃÜiiÌ L՘Ê̜Ê}œ]ÊLÕÞÊ>ÊV>ŽiÊvœÀÊ`iÃÃiÀÌʜÀÊÌ>ŽiÊ>Ü>ÞÊ>ÊÃÌÕvvi` «ˆÌ>ÊvœÀʏ՘V…°Êf

" Ê ,"--  {Ó£ÓÊ …>ÀiÃ̜ܘÊ,`°]Ê iÜʏL>˜Þ  ]ʙn£‡ÓÈÎΰÊfÊ[ / Ê " Ê <" £äxÓÊ >À`ÃÌœÜ˜Ê ,`°]Ê Çnx‡{ÈÇÈ°Ê  œÀÌ…Ê >Àœˆ˜>‡L>Ãi`Ê VœvviiÊ Ã…œ«Ê V…>ˆ˜Ê iÃÌ>LˆÃ…iÃÊ > Li>V……i>`Ê ˆ˜Ê œÕˆÃۈi°Ê /…iÞÊ vi>ÌÕÀiÊ L>ŽiÀÞÊ ˆÌi“Ã] ÃÕV…Ê>ÃÊ«>ÃÌÀˆiÃ]Ê>˜`Ê>ÃÜÀÌi`ÊÃ>˜`܈V…iðÊfÊ[

9½-Ê -*, --"Ê  Ê " Ê , £{ÓäÊ >À`ÃÊ̜ܘ ,`°]Ê {xȇ££Çä°Ê >ÀŽÊ >˜`Ê VœâÞ]Ê ÜˆÌ…Ê >˜Ê œ`‡v>ňœ˜i` viiˆ˜}]Ê >Þ½ÃÊ …>ÃÊ iÛiÀÞ̅ˆ˜}Ê ÞœÕÊ ÜœÕ`Ê iÝ«iVÌÊ ˆ˜Ê > Vœi}i‡˜iˆ}…LœÀ…œœ`ÊVœvviiÊŜ«ÊiÝVi«ÌÊ>ÊVœi}iʘi>À LÞ°ÊfÊ] [   Ê ,"/ ,-Ê " ­£{ʏœV>̈œ˜Ã®Êiˆ˜iÊ ÀœÃ° Vœ˜Ìˆ˜ÕiÃÊ̅iˆÀÊ`œ“ˆ˜>˜Viʈ˜Ê̅iʏœV>ÊLÀi܈˜}ÊÃVi˜i° /…iÊÃ̜ÀiÃÊ>ÀiÊ>Ü>ÞÃÊvÀˆi˜`ÞÊ>˜`Ê>vvœÀ`>Li]Ê܈̅Ê}œœ` VœvviiÊ Àœ>ÃÌi`Ê œ˜Ê ̅iÊ «Ài“ˆÃiÃÊ >˜`Ê >Ê Ã…œÀÌÊ ˆÃÌÊ œv «>ÃÌÀˆiÃ]Ê`iÃÃiÀÌÃÊ>˜`Ê«>˜ˆ˜ˆÊÃ>˜`Ê܈V…iðÊfÊ] [Z  Ê " Ê "° ££{äÊ >À`ÃÌœÜ˜Ê ,`°]Ê {x£‡ {x{x°Ê "vviÀˆ˜}Ê ÌÜœÊ Ü>ÞÃÊ ÌœÊ }iÌÊ ÜˆÀi`]Ê Ì…ˆÃÊ VœâÞ ˜iˆ}…LœÀ…œœ`Ê VœvviiÊ Ã…œ«Ê >ÃœÊ v՘V̈œ˜ÃÊ >ÃÊ œ˜iÊ œv œÕˆÃۈi½ÃÊ Ìœ«Ê ˜ÌiÀ˜iÌÊ V>vjÃ]Ê Ü…iÀiÊ ÞœÕÊ V>˜Ê i˜œÞÊ > …œÌÊ V>««ÕVVˆ˜œÊ ܅ˆiÊ ÞœÕÊ ÃÕÀvÊ Ì…iÊ ½˜iÌÊ ˆ˜Ê >Ê 7ˆˆÊ …œÌ ëœÌ°Ê՘ŽÞÊ-i>Ì̏i‡ÃÌޏiÊ>“Lˆi˜ViʈÃÊ>Ê«ÕðÊfÊ] [ "  " Ê " Ê "° ÎÇääÊ *>œˆÊ *ˆŽi]Ê œÞ`à ˜œLÃÊ ]ÊÇÓn‡nÓΙ]Ê{ÓäÊ-«Àˆ˜}Ê-Ì°]ÊivviÀܘۈiÊ ] ™{{‡{xxx°Ê œL˜œLLÊ œvviÀÃÊ vÀiÃ…Ê …œÌÊ Vœvvii]Ê iëÀiÃÜ `Àˆ˜ŽÃÊ>˜`ÊvÀiÅÊL>Ži`Ê«>ÃÌÀˆiÃ]ÊV>ŽiÃÊ>˜`ÊVœœŽˆiðÊfÊ[ " Ê " ÓÇÎÈÊ …>ÀiÃÌœÜ˜Ê ,`°]Ê iÜÊ L>˜Þ  ]Ê ™Óä‡äx™Î°Ê /…ˆÃÊ v>“ˆÞÊ ÀÕ˜Ê V>vviˆ˜iÊ `ˆÃ«i˜Ã>ÀÞÊ œ˜ ̅iÊ ˜œÀÌ…Ê Ãˆ`iÊ œvÊ iÜÊ L>˜ÞÊ ÃiÀÛiÃÊ VœvviiÊ vÀœ“

] = Late Night e = Full Bar [ = Outdoor Dining = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 81


MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # $/7.4/7.  1 downtown louisville  .%!2%!34 2 highlands – crescent hill  .%!2%!34 3 st. matthews  3/54(%!34 4 hikes point – buechel  %!34 5 hurstbourne – anchorage  %!34 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown  ./24(%!34 7 indian hills – westport  &!2./24(%!34 8 westport rd. – gene snyder .! .%7-!0 9 under construction  ./24(%!34 10 prospect  3/54(%!34 11 fern creek  3/54(7%34 12 shively – pleasure ridge  3/54( 13 old louisville – airport  ).$)!.! 14 new albany – floyds knobs  ).$)!.! 15 clarksville  ).$)!.! 16 jeffersonville

82 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com


MAP INDEX www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 83


MAP • 1 DOWNTOWN 84 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com


www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 85

(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

MAP • 2


MAP • 3 (NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS 86 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com


www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 87

(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

MAP • 4


88 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

MAP • 5


www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 89

(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

MAP • 6


90 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

MAP • 8

(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER (NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

MAP • 7


www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 91

MAP • 11

(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

MAP • 10


92 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

MAP • 12


www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 93

(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

MAP • 13


94 Summer 2017 www.foodanddine.com

(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14


www.foodanddine.com Summer 2017 95

MAP • 16

(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

MAP • 15


Summer 2017 (vol 56)  

MAY - JUNE - JULY 2017

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