Spring 2019 (Vol. 63)

Page 1

Cover Pages_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 2/28/19 6:34 PM Page 1


Cover Pages_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 2/28/19 10:31 AM Page 2


Contents_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 2/28/19 2:34 PM Page 1


Contents_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 2/28/19 2:34 PM Page 2


Contents_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 2/28/19 2:34 PM Page 3


Contents_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 2/28/19 2:34 PM Page 4

SPRING 2019

PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JESSICA MATHIS EXECUTIVE EDITOR RON MIKULAK BUSINESS MANAGER BRIANA MORGAN PHOTOGRAPHERS DAN DRY ANDY HYSLOP COLUMNISTS ROGER BAYLOR JAY FORMAN RON MIKULAK SUSAN REIGLER FEATURE WRITERS MICHAEL L. JONES SUSAN REIGLER ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD GRAPHIC DESIGN & PRODUCTION ED ROTHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES KAREN SHANE ANNETTE B. WHITE

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 502.509.EATS (3287)

www.foodanddine.com socialmedia@foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine @FoodAndDining

For Advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS) Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER Guinea fowl roulade from 610 Magnolia (page 38).

Photo by Dan Dry

4

Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com


Contents_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 2/28/19 2:34 PM Page 5

contents SPRING 2019 | VOLUME 63

RESTAURANT GUIDE

44 | Dining Guide 82 | Maps

Our comprehensive listing of over 1,400 area restaurants, complete with reviews.

(RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.

FEATURES PROFILE | Check’s BBQ & Blues | 22

Susan Reigler checks out the easternmost outpost on the Urban Bourbon Trail that is also a satellite of the 75-year-old Germantown tradition.

28 |

FEATURE | Chefs On TV Jessica Mathis asks a cross section of Kentucky chefs how television shapes the industry and how cooking for the camera differs from cooking in their kitchens.

PROFILE | Chef Edward Lee | 38

Chef Edward Lee sits down with Michael L. Jones to discuss his restaurant ventures, television appearances and where his interests may take him next.

COLUMNS Starters COMINGS & GOINGS | 8

A summary of changes in the local restaurant scene — with openings, closings, changes and more.

12 |

From the Editor | Adventures in Fooding Jessica explores her Norwegian roots and other opportunities to pair food with fun — like driving a Corvette Stingray and sampling blue ribbon ice cream.

Food COOKING WITH RON | Rediscover the Classics | 18

While magazines love to predict the trends that come and go, there’s nothing wrong with pulling from the past for classics like delicious boeuf bourguignon.

EASY ENTERTAINING | Chopped — F&D Style | 32

We gave mystery baskets to three Louisville Chefs who have appeared on Chopped and asked for their spin on classic Derby dishes, so we can all win.

Liquids

14 | 20 |

HIP HOPS| Pints&union Disoriented by ever-changing beer lists? This new pub suggests going back to school — the old school.

BOURBON | Bottled-in-Bond Susan Reigler delves into the fascinating history of bourbon and what it means when bourbon is “bottled-in-bond.”

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019

5


Comings & Goings_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:39 PM Page 6

6 Spring 2019Â www.foodanddine.com


Comings & Goings_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:39 PM Page 7


Comings & Goings_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:39 PM Page 8

starters | comings & goings

comings & goings

BY RON MIKULAK

The ratio of new restaurants opening to existing restaurants closing is still healthily positive. This issue, F&D notes 28 openings against 20 closings. The latter number includes multi-location businesses that have shuttered one outlet but are still serving at others. Notable among the newcomers are eight new restaurants in Southern Indiana. New Albany will see the bulk of the new businesses, and Jeffersonville the rest. Noteworthy on the other side of the ratio — and of the river — are seven rather abrupt closings along Bardstown Road, Louisville’s original Restaurant Row, which has seen relatively little turnover in recent years. Whether or not this is the beginning of a larger trend remains to be seen.

NEW TABLES

U of L basketball’s Dr. Dunkenstein, Darrell Griffith, is the namesake behind Griff’s, located in the long-vacant O’Malley’s Corner building at 133 W. Liberty St. It’s a sports bar but also a restaurant with lots of choices for sports fans or nearby Omni guests. Another new sports bar, Dave & Buster’s, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., skews toward family-friendly with lots of arcade games, billiards, bowling, and other fun and has taken over the second floor of Forever 21 at Mall St. Matthews. The surprisingly large menu ranges from shareable snacks and bar fare to full entrees like salmon, ribs and pasta to an impressive healthy selection for alternative diets. In Germantown, 21st Amendment Tavern at 1481 S. Shelby St. plans to open in April, offering food and beverage “with benefits.” Andrea Reigling has been working to reconfigure the former Cure Lounge building on the corner of E. Burnett. The restaurant specialty features “pot pies” and other hemp food items made from scratch plus an outdoor patio for warmer weather. Hooked on Frankfort, 3202 Frankfort Ave., is a new fish house from popular bar & BBQ joint Frankfort Avenue Beer Depot’s owners, who wanted seafood in their portfolio. Just two doors down from FABD, the new joint features an outdoor dining patio and claims they will soon be known for the “best fish sandwich on Frankfort Ave.” Dan Borsch, owner of the classic Old Louisville eating spots Burger Boy,Toonerville Tavern and Old Louisville Tavern, is expanding into Crescent Hill. He’s acquired the former Bluegrass Burgers Building at 3334 Frankfort Ave. and plans to open Burger Girl there sometime in March. The vibe and never-closing hours will echo the venerable Burger Boy. A lot has been happening across the river. One of six new businesses in New Albany is The Grain Haus at 41 W. First St., across the courtyard from its parent, Floyd County Brewing. The emphasis will be on pizza and other beer-friendly foods. A different approach to a pizza restaurant, 8th St. Pizza, 800 E. Eighth St., describes itself as a “pay-it-forward pizza shop and min8 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

istry.” Customers can pay the listed price or whatever they can afford — or pay more than listed if they can “pay-it-forward,” making a slice available for another. La Catrina Mexican Kitchen, a new approach from the owners of Señor Iguanas, is at 202 E. Elm St. in New Albany (formerly Dragon King’s Daughter), and another new Mexican restaurant in New Albany is El Sinaloa Mexican Restaurant, 111 W. Market St. The Earl, a new bar and grill, sits in the space vacated by Comfy Cow at 109 E. Market St. Cox’s Hot Chicken replaced Big Four Burgers in both New Albany (110 E. Main St.) and Jeffersonville (134 Spring St.). The focus is on chicken and burgers in a familyfriendly sports bar atmosphere with pool tables and other games. The Jeffersonville location boasts a Goodwood Brewing taproom on the second floor. Also new in Jeffersonville, Café 223 at 223 Pearl St. is set to open in April after several delays. The former Southern Indiana branch of the Come Back Inn has a new identity as Town, 415 Spring St., and a menu still focused on pasta, pizzas, salads, sandwiches and a revamped appetizer selection. Jeff’s Bakery at 5420 IN-62, J’ville, is also new to our listings. Back in Louisville, the range of new restaurants is variegated. Full Stop Filling Station, 1132 E. St. Catherine St., transforms a one-time repair garage into a take-away coffee house/café focusing on locally-sourced foods. JW Café and Bakery, 2301 Terra Crossing Blvd., serves cookies, scones and so on in the bakery but offers Korean dishes at the café at lunch. Babie Bac’z Good Grill serves barbecue at 8533 Terry Rd, and Soul Food Dining serves up soul at 4900 Poplar Level Rd. Galan’s Meat Market has been providing Portland with fresh meats for a year or so. By April, Carlos Galan will open Galan’s Meat Market & Grille at 2300 W. Market St., also with a meat counter and a focus on his native Cuban dishes as well as pizza. J-Town Beach is a volleyball-centric sports center at 10315 Watterson Trl., offering Quills Coffee and Comfy Cow ice cream. The Spot has replaced Stadium Joe’s as the restaurant at Ramada Plaza, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. Continued on page 10


Comings & Goings_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:39 PM Page 9

comings & goings | starters

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 9


Comings & Goings_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:39 PM Page 10

starters | comings & goings Misawa Hibachi & Sushi Bar serves Japanese specialties at 7931 Bardstown Rd. Chilakiles serves up chilaquiles and other Mexican breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes at 5600 National Tpke. Derby City Gaming at 4520 Poplar Level Rd. has two new eating spots on site. Lil’ Wagners is the sit-down restaurant, offering a break from betting with burgers and sandwiches (including fried bologna), starters like nachos and fried pickles, soups and salads. Railbirds Hot Chicken is Derby City Gaming’s casual eating choice, where betters can grab some wings or jumbo tenders and sides like fries or slaw. Three established restaurants have added new venues. Griffin Paulin is opening another Mirin (Asian street food) in the bustling New Albany restaurant row at 145 E. Main St. Carali’s Rotisserie Chicken has a second store in the former Fire Fresh BBQ location at 211 S. Fifth St. in downtown Louisville; Topp’t Pizza & Salads has opened a second location at 323 W. Cardinal Blvd to satisfy U of L students’ cravings.

CLOSINGS

The string of closings along Bardstown Road surprised many, but various reasons have been given. Buffalo Wild Wings at 1055 Bardstown Rd. closed, because the national chain found it too costly to renovate the old theatre building to fit their updated corporate image. A change in corporate direction was also given for closing the Highlands Yang Kee Noodle, 1004 Bardstown Rd. Up the street at the Douglass Loop, North End Café has closed its Highlands branch and adjoining pizza stand, Slice, at 2116 Bardstown Rd., but North End Cafè’s Frankfort Avenue location remains open. Word has it a Latin restaurant will take over the Highland building. Two DiOrio’s Pizza & Pubs remain after the closing of the Douglass Loop store at 2216 Dundee Rd. The Bardstown Road closings continue with Anselmo’s Italian Bistro, 1511 Bardstown Rd. Also, both Bazo’s Fresh Mexican Grill locations, back side of Mid City Mall at 1250 Bardstown Rd. and 4014 Dutchmans Ln., have closed. Downtown, Yaching’s East West Cuisine at 105 S. Fourth St. has ceased 10 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

serving. In Germantown, Lydia House, 1101 Lydia St., has closed, but plans to reopen as a bar have been bruited about. F&D will keep you informed. Restaurants across the river have seen some churn. Both locations of Big Four Burgers, 114 E. Main St. in New Albany and 134 Spring St. in Jeffersonville, are now Cox’s Hot Chicken spots. Sweet Frog at 302 Pearl St. in New Albany also closed. Two pizza places are baking no more: both Papa Murphy’s at 1305 Veterans Pkwy. in Clarksville and District 22 Pizza, 110 E. Main St. in New Albany, have closed. In the suburbs, Bluegrass Exchange Marketplace & Deli at 9428 Norton Commons Blvd. has closed as has Peking City Bistro in Middletown at 12410 Shelbyville Rd. Cocoberry Pops at 323 W. Woodlawn Ave. has packed up and moved to Florida. The Cure Lounge has closed at 1481 S. Shelby St. but will reopen as 21st Amendment Tavern. And finally, Krispy Krunchy Chicken has closed at 1610 Dixie Hwy. So has Café at Main St., 10317 Watterson Trl.

CHANGES

A handful of other established restaurants have undergone some changes but are otherwise still in business. We mentioned that Jeffersonville’s Come Back Inn is now Town with a slightly changed menu. Floridita, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., used to be Havana Salsa Cuban Cuisine, but the same owners are serving the same menus. The two locations of Mi Cocina at 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. and 520 S. Fourth St. are now Mi Casita Parrilla Mexicana. Good news comes to those who have waited in line at Con Huevos, 2339 Frankfort Ave. An extensive renovation tripled their space into the adjacent flower shop. The Manhattan Project, 2101 Frankfort Ave., has doubled their footprint into former Nancy’s Bagel Grounds. In closing, Roadrunner Kitchen moved from 145 E. Main St. in New Albany to 37 Bank St. in the developing Underground Station complex. Alex&nder, the bar at Copper & Kings Distillery at 1121 E. Washington St., has stopped serving food, and River City Winery, 321 Pearl St. in New Albany, is on “temporary hiatus” with no definite re-opening date. F&D


Comings & Goings_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:39 PM Page 11

comings & goings | starters

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 11


From the Editor_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:42 PM Page 12

starters | from the editor

Adventures in Fooding Food and fun often go hand in hand, and I’m always out exploring food offerings that are paired with other forms of entertainment as well to share with F&D readers. With Valentine’s Day being just behind us, opportunities for unique dates and gifts have been at the forefront of my mind. STORY & PHOTOS BY JESSICA MATHIS

Food and the Fast Lane

I wanted to take a guy pal for a good meal and a good time and, being a car fan myself, I surprised him with a trip to the National Corvette Museum where we started the day at breakneck speed – literally. Before lunch, we enjoyed the unbelievably fun experience of driving laps around the museum’s track in a Corvette Stingray. He’s not sure which was more fun: racing the car around the track or watching me in the passenger seat reaching for the “Oh, S***!” handle above the window

— only to find there wasn’t one. We were also entertained by the VIP tour where a guide walked us through the museum, educating us about the history of the Corvette and giving us some peeks behind the scenes. This food and fun package offered by the museum includes lunch for two, some basic driving lessons, two hours of classroom and track time plus a VIP tour of the museum. It all makes for an unforgettable mini-vacation close to home for $599. If that’s a bit out of reach for you, other museum options start at Back to My Viking Roots $10 and include a simulator, riding on the I realized recently that I don’t know enough track with a professional at racing speeds, ridabout food from my mostly Scandinavian hering in a vintage Corvette, and kid or adult itage and thought Jesse and Liz Huot, owners sized go-karts. of Grind Burger Kitchen and Lunch was in the classic Oskar’s Slider Bar, would be Corvette Café where we just the people to turn to took in the nostalgic since they share my heritage brightly-colored malt shop and Oskar’s features decor and excitedly Norwegian fare. Jesse taught ordered our cooked-tome the lengthy process of perfection burger, BLT and preparing gravlax (a raw curly fries from the menu salmon delicacy) — from that features diner fare like butchering the gorgeous sandwiches, salads and Argentinian salmon to curdesserts. The cafe’s not-toing it with beets and dill, miss line of malts and milkresulting in a beautiful red Jesse Huot preps shakes are made with ice colored flesh that is rolled a salmon for gravlax. cream from Chaney’s Dairy into what looks like a rose

Barn, a spot just about everyone we spoke to in Bowling Green said we simply had to visit. This two-story restaurant is known for their blue ribbon-winning ice cream and family fun like corn mazes or summer movie nights. The Chaney family gave us a tour of their farm where my engineering professor pal loved watching the automatic milking process from their thoughtfully designed tour room, and I fell in love with a baby calf I got to feed before we discovered why Bowling Green is in love with their food and ice cream. For just $12, they served up a whole home cooked overflowing Thanksgiving plate full of flavors before we indulged in their ice 12 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

cream, sampling flavors like Bourbon Crunch (bourbon ball with Makers Mark), Cookie Monster (blue ice cream with chocolate chip cookie and Oreo pieces), and Wow Now Brownie Cow (chocolate ice cream with brownies, chocolate chunks and fudge swirls) and other fun flavors. We left so full of hospitality and food, we were glad we had made a stop earlier at Lost River Cave for some exercise. After zip lining and walking on the paths there that are open to the public, we learned about a truly fascinating historical outdoor nightclub that once thrived in the opening of this cave, which is still available to rent as a unique event space. My pal's still thanking me for the fun months later, and I’m still looking for ways to pay him back for laughing at my real panic as he drifted the Stingray’s rear tires around those curves.

bud and served at Oskar’s with a rye cracker and creme fraîche. Next, I spent time with pastry chef Kenna Pennington, learning how to make lefse, a soft Norwegian flatbread made from potatoes and flour often topped with butter or cinnamon and sugar and then rolled up. (Oskar’s already takes orders for Norwegian baked goods, but soon they will have a bakery open just a few doors down from the main restaurant.) I picked up the lefse stick and was rolling the tortilla looking potato and flour discs onto the round lefse griddle in no time. I completed my heritage lesson with Patrick Flanary, the bartender and resident Viking who also curates the music on their monthly Swedish


From the Editor_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:42 PM Page 13

from the editor | starters cheeseburger sliders, XL tots, chicken wings and fried green beans with a nearby concert. The videos feature narrators retelling true A Valentine’s Toast bad date stories as to “Never Again” classic monsters like It would be interesting to find Nosferatu, wereout how much restaurant busiwolves, Medusa and ness exists thanks to dating. Dr. Caligari reenact While I find food journalism to the tales. Marianne be wonderfully fulfilling, I also Zickhur created a love writing for and working in Actor Robert Thompson list of fun themed television and entertainment – drink specials: a and I really love when both worlds overlap. I recently created a web series, Nosferatini (Korbel champagne, Absolut “Dating Horror Stories – as reenacted by clas- cherry, and cranberry with a cherry), Wolf ’s sic movie monsters,” with a talented local cast Bane (Absolut Cherry and Coke), and the and crew, which is available on Amazon and Blushing Bride of Frankenstein (peach was filmed in local venues. We premiered it at schnapps, grenadine and Korbel). Those who Encore on Fourth, which is open again under bought tickets in advance enjoyed a special new ownership for private event rentals or on treat: a delectable bourbon truffle from Art weekends and any nights there are shows at Eatables. If you are trying to bring your dating the Palace or Mercury Ballroom, meaning it’s life back from the dead after splitting from a easy to pair any of their menu items like monster, try a toast with the recipe (right). Metal night. He schooled me in the Scandinavian distilled spirit Aquavit, offering a tasting of several brands from various parts of the world.

You can read more about my adventures at Foodanddine.com, including more in-depth articles about Bowling Green and Oskar’s (with a photo slideshow of the entire gravlax process). I’m sure I’ll have plenty more to share in the summer issue like a journey to a bourbon barrel cooperage and to Limestone Distillery, the only remaining distillery owned by a member of the Beam family. F&D

Blushing Bride of Frankenstein 1 ounce peach schnapps 1 ounce grenadine 4 ounces well-chilled Korbel champagne In a rocks glass, stir together the schnapps and the grenadine. Top with cold Korbel.

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 13


Hip Hops_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:44 PM Page 14

liquids | hip hops

PINTS& UNION

Where the classic beer hits keep right on pouring BY ROGER BAYLOR, PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

Did you hear the one about two buddies walking into a coffee shop to talk about building a brand new “old” bar? One of them was Joe Phillips, and the other was me. We began philosophizing about life, adult beverages, curry and third spaces. This chat was the impetus for Pints&union, a pub in downtown New Albany that opened in August of 2018.

n that fateful morning at Quills, we drained a few bracing espressos and got wired – then excited. We’d both been planning an honest, traditional, no-gimmicks public house where everybody knows your name, and it seemed like a good idea to work together toward this shared goal. Now Joe is the owner of Pints&union, and I work for him as manager of a purposefully archaic beer program, which I’ll get to in a moment. First, meet Joe Phillips and his dream pub. Joe is a food and drink industry lifer who began washing dishes at a pizzeria in California while still attending high school. He’s since compiled a resume that touches just about every base in the local food and drink business: Copper & Kings, Capriole Farms Goat Cheese, Butchertown Social and New Albanian Brewing Company’s Bank Street Brewhouse among others. Pints&union is about “getting back to what really matters,” as Joe often puts it. The pub’s name has an ampersand but no spacing, representing an inclusive sharing ethos; historically pubs have functioned as more than just watering holes.They’re living rooms, libraries, meeting halls and community centers. Housed in a two-story wood-frame structure from the 1880s, Pints&union was rebuilt to its original 19th-century dimensions by Resch

O

About the author: Roger has written F&D’s beer column Hip Hops since 2005. He is also the former co-owner of the New Albanian Brewing Company, and served four terms on the board of the Brewers of Indiana Guild. Since 1983 he’s been a liquor store manager, European beer tour escort, homebrewing club founder, bartender and entrepreneur.

14 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

114 East Market Street New Albany, Indiana

812.913.4647 Construction. As many surviving materials as possible were reused during the course of the modernization. The eclectic interior suggests a cross between an Irish pub and an American saloon, and this is fitting given the long record of taverns and eateries occupying the space. In 1890, when Nicholas Sauer’s saloon was the tenant, New Albany boasted a population of 21,000, and there were 80 drinking emporiums — most of which were located downtown within walking distance of each other.That’s a pub for roughly every 262 people. The full-service bar at Pints&union features spirits overseen by Bar Manager Calvin Philley, whose philosophy is simple: a core of classic cocktails tweaked with repurposed ingredients and modified techniques designed to complement Pints&union’s distinctive sense of place amid New Albany’s emerging downtown scene. Meanwhile, Joe and Chef Aaron Tuttle have designed a short but varied menu of international street food suitable for preparation in limited galley kitchen space: Scotch eggs, Chicken Tikka Masala and Currywurst alongside American diner-standard cheeseburgers and fries. Early results have been encouraging for Joe’s new-meets-old mix of stylistic influences at Pints&union, and - speaking personally as a burnedout former brewery owner who was unsure he even had a place in today’s beer world — I’m grateful to Joe for the chance to offer a slate of beers that largely eschews the avant garde. To explain this, we must steal a quick glance through the rearview mirror. I began working part-time in a downtown New Albany liquor store in 1983 with a copy of Michael Jackson’s seminal “World Guide to Beer” in


Hip Hops_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:45 PM Page 15

hip hops | liquids my hands and a dawning recognition that all my interests coincided in the brewhouse: history, geography and intoxication among them. Few dining and drinking establishments in metropolitan Louisville offered beer lists. To ask for a beer list was to be surveyed with dumbfounded amazement as though you were speaking in Estonian or wearing a conehead prosthesis. Bartenders bothering to reply at all would shrug. “We have both kinds of beer, pal: Miller High Life and Miller Lite.” In 1992, a poster called "Brewpubs and Craft Breweries" showed a map of breweries operating in the United States – all 300 or so of them. There existed precisely one brewery each in Kentucky (Oldenberg in Ft. Mitchell), Indiana (Broad Ripple Brewpub in Indianapolis) and Tennessee (Bohannon's / Market Street in Nashville). As of early 2018, the brewery counts for these states were 52, 137 and 82, respectively. Combined, that’s almost as many as were brewing in the entire country in 1992, and the paradigm shift over 35 years is stunning. Today, we’re approaching 7,000 craft breweries in America. If each one brewed six different beers yearly (a ridiculously conservative estimate), that’d be 42,000 beers available for

make hard decisions about which beers to keep in stock. Many on-premise restaurants, bars and pubs elect to constantly rotate their draft beer offerings. A customer making weekly visits to a bar with 15 tap handles might be exposed to 200 different draft beers during a single year. Consequently, a beer enthusiast’s “What’s new?” culture has evolved, placing a premium on the next new release while ignoring the historical knowledge base that brought us to the present juncture of sheer proliferation. My stand is clear, and the time for a “back to basics” movement is now. I believe there exists a silent majority among American beer drinkers who find the kaleidoscopic tilt-a-whirl of short attention spans and this frenetic hamster wheel approach to beer appreciation to be utterly bewildering. These are beer lovers who genuinely seek to drink better beer but are overwhelmed by ever-changing blackboards at their chosen pubs. They’re hesitant to ask questions for fear of geeks on both sides of the bar laughing at them. They don’t use the Untappd app, but they know exactly where your selfie stick belongs. My solution at Pints&union is to go back to school – the old school. We emphasize comfort beers, teach neglected styles, and offer the greatest beer hits of the 1300s through the 1900s placed alongside a few contemporary selections destined to become classics. The Pints&union beer list is largely fixed and unchanging. You’ll always be able to enjoy draft pints of Fuller’s London Pride, Fuller’s London (from left) Roger Baylor, Joe Phillips and Calvin Philley Porter, Pilsner Urquell, Guinness, Falls City sampling. That doesn’t account for imported Classic Pilsner and Bell’s Two Hearted Ale plus beers, which now comprise time-honored choose from a bottled and canned variety of flagships — from Affligem through Zwiec — European essentials and American craft beers nor a recent flock of American-influenced — from La Chouffe to WarPigs Salmon Pants, craft beers (Brew Dog, Mikkeller, Struis and with Celebrator Doppelbock sharing the many more). cooler with Central State Garden. There’s naturally a looming catch to this dazPints&union reserves the right to reinvent zling cornucopia of choice, because establish- today’s beer by boarding the way-back machine ments selling beer still have finite space and and starting all over. Find a beer you like, and budgetary limitations. Even the most volumi- have another. For me, proving this point is nous warehouse-sized package store or cav- sweet, but savoring a warming Old Engine Oil ernous walk-in cooler at the multi-tap must on a cool evening is always better. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 15


Cooking with Ron_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 2/28/19 2:46 PM Page 16

food | cooking with ron

Don’t Follow the Trends...

Rediscover theClassics BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

One of the more entertainingly silly food stories that appear regularly in newspapers’ food sections and cooking magazines is the annual prognostications of new food trends likely to appear in the next year. The New York Times,

Prevention

Magazine,

Eater and Supermarket News are just a few that jump on this annual bandwagon, and in January they all ran stories predicting the food and drink “trends” that will be gaining popularity this year.

S

ome of these anticipated trends include “peganism” (a paleo version of veganism), CBD-infused drinks (a boon to Kentucky hemp farmers), lab-grown “motherless” meat (no thanks) and oat milk.The last of these is not actually milk, but oats soaked in water, pressed, and the resulting liquid reduced in volume — offered as a way to lighten your coffee for those who like light16 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

ened coffee but for other trendy reasons strive to avoid dairy products. Various publications at the start of the year opined that less familiar grains such as bulgur, farro, chia seed, hemp seed and quinoa would continue to become more familiar. Other food stories posited that cabbage or mushrooms or “sea vegetables” (seaweed) would depose cauliflower as the vegetable of the moment. (Were you even aware that kale had been dethroned in the trendiness pantheon by what Mark Twain described as “a cabbage with a college education?”) The NY Times touted, among other trends, the emergence of new ethnic cuisines: the foods of such unfamiliar places as Syria, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Georgia (the country in the Caucasus, not the state above Florida). Cooking all components of a meal at one time spread out on a large sheet pan had its moment in the sun this past year; a few different periodicals put forth the prediction that this year that technique will be superseded by cooking all components of a meal at one time by wrapping everything in foil. In pondering this often risible list of possible new food trends (Uzbeki cuisine, for instance, is dominated by fried dough, pilafs, kabobs and stew made with mutton and horsemeat), we got to wondering what makes foods untrendy. That is, why do some dishes that once were mainstays on sort-of-

fancy restaurant menus and yet doable by home cooks fall out of favor? The recent disappearance of boeuf bourguignon from general cultural consciousness is what precipitated this bout of recipe pondering. If we can believe the narrative of the movie “Julie & Julia,” trying out Julia Child’s instructions for this classic French stew is what convinced the book editor Judith Jones to champion the publication of “The Art of French Cooking.” For a while, Julia Child's somewhat labor-intensive recipe became the sine qua non of aspirational home dinner parties, and the dish had a vogue in upscale restaurants. But it is not in vogue anymore. Neither are beef stroganoff or chicken paprikash, two other dishes that once were probably many Americans’ first introduction to “ethnic” food. All three of these dishes are not hard to prepare, requiring some (but not a lot) of preparatory peeling and cutting, and calling for easily found ingredients that result in dishes that are just showy enough to make guests exclaim as the cook basks in kudos for the effort. Here, I turned to Julia Child's boeuf bourguignon recipe and found a few places to simplify it without changing its essential character. Beef stroganoff and chicken paprikash are dishes I make periodically — often when I have sour cream I want to use up. All three recipes call for the use of beef or chicken stock as a basis for the sauce. This gives me a chance to tout my favorite kitchen shortcut: Better Than Bouillon stock and soup bases. Flavor bases are stocks that have been cooked down to jelly-like consistencies, which concentrates the flavors that bloom again when dissolved in water. You can find Better than Bouillon in chicken, turkey, beef, mushroom and roasted vegetable flavors in the soup aisle at supermarkets. I used to make my own stocks from carcasses and bones to freeze for future use. They took up a lot of space in the freezer. Eight-ounce jars of Better than Bouillon bases take little space in the fridge, last for months and add much flavor to sauces, gravies and soups. It is what I have used for stock in these recipes. While I did make fun of predicting food trends, I will unironically offer one of my own: look for wide, curly egg noodles to elbow their way into more prominence as a side for fancy stews.

Trendy, no. Good, yes.


Cooking with Ron_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 2/28/19 2:46 PM Page 17

cooking with ron | food

––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Beef Bourguignon (Serves 6) This is a long-cooked stew (a braise) and needs meat that has fat and some gristle, which will slowly dissolve in long, low heat to enrich the wine sauce. Chuck roast is the ideal cut for this dish. The wine should be full-bodied table wine that you would ordinarily enjoy drinking. Leave “cooking wine” on the grocery shelf.

1 tablespoon olive oil 8 ounces smoked bacon, diced 3 pounds chuck beef cut into 1-inch cubes, excess fat and connective tissue judiciously trimmed Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 pound carrots, scraped and sliced diagonally into 1-inch chunks 2 yellow onions, peeled and sliced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced ½ cup Cognac, brandy (or bourbon if that is all you have) 1 (750 ml.) bottle good dry red wine such as Cote du Rhone, Pinot Noir or Burgundy 2 cups beef broth 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (½ teaspoon dried) 4 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature, divided 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 pound whole pearl onions (frozen onions are okay) 1 pound fresh mushrooms, stems trimmed. Keep small mushrooms whole; cut larger ones in half Heat the oven to 250 degrees. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven. Add the bacon and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is lightly browned. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and reserve. Dry the beef cubes by blotting with paper towels and then sprinkle them with salt and pepper. In batches in single layers, sear the beef in the hot oil for 3 to 5 minutes, turning to brown on all sides. Remove the seared cubes to the plate with the bacon and continue searing until all the beef is browned. Set aside. Toss the carrots, and onions, one tablespoon of salt and two teaspoons of pepper in the fat in the pan and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are lightly browned. Add the garlic, and cook for one more minute. Add the Cognac or other liquor, stand back, and ignite with a match to burn off the alcohol. When flames subside, put the meat and bacon back into the pot

with the juices. Add the bottle of wine plus enough beef broth to almost cover the meat. Add the tomato paste and thyme. Bring to a simmer, cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and place it in the oven for about one hour and 15 minutes or until the meat and vegetables are very tender. When pierced with a two-prong fork and the fork comes out free without lifting any meat, the meat is done. Combine two tablespoons of butter and the flour with a fork into a paste and stir into the stew to thicken the sauce. Add the onions. Sauté the mushrooms in two tablespoons of butter for 10 minutes until lightly browned and then add to the stew. Bring the stew to a boil on top of the stove, then lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Season to taste. Serve with mashed potatoes.

––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Chicken Paprikash (Serves 4) Skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs will give the best flavor, as will good quality paprika. Use hot or sweet paprika to your taste

4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 large onion, peeled and sliced into half-moons ½ green bell pepper, seeded and sliced about ¼-inch thick

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 17


Cooking with Ron_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 2/28/19 2:46 PM Page 18

½ red bell pepper, seeded and sliced about ¼-inch thick ½ yellow bell pepper, seeded and sliced about ¼-inch thick 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 3 tablespoons paprika ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 15-ounce can crushed tomatoes ½ cup sour cream, room temperature 12 ounces egg noodles 2 tablespoons butter ½ cup chopped parsley Pat chicken dry with paper towels. Season both sides of the chicken thighs with salt and pepper. Set chicken aside. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over mediumhigh. Add one tablespoon butter; when melted and sizzling, add chicken, skin side down, and cook until skin is golden brown and crisp, 8–10 minutes. Turn chicken over, and brown the other sides. Transfer chicken, skin side up, to a plate. Pour off fat from skillet; then add rest of butter. When sizzly, add onion, peppers and garlic.

18 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring often to dissolve browned bits on bottom of skillet, until onions are translucent, 6–8 minutes. Sprinkle the vegetables with three tablespoons paprika and ¼ teaspoon cayenne. Cook, stirring constantly, just until vegetables are evenly coated and spices are fragrant, about 30 seconds. Be careful here, for the spices can burn easily. Add tomatoes to skillet. Fill can two-thirds with white wine and swirl, then add to skillet. Stir until incorporated, season with several pinches of salt, and bring to a simmer. Arrange thighs, skin side up, back in skillet (along with any accumulated juices), nestling into liquid but not submerging (you want the skin to be exposed so it stays crispy). Transfer skillet to oven and roast until chicken is fully cooked and tender enough to release from the bone when prodded with a fork, 35–40 minutes. About halfway through chicken cook time in the oven, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add 12 ounces of egg noodles and cook according to package instructions, stirring occasionally with tongs. Drain noodles in a colander. Transfer to a large bowl, add remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and toss to coat until butter is melted and noodles are coated. Season with salt and pepper. Finely chop ½ cup parsley and add half to noodles; toss to coat. Carefully remove skillet from oven. (Handle will

be hot!) Using tongs, transfer chicken, skin side up, to a clean plate. Taste sauce and season with more salt and pepper, if needed. Spoon about ¼ cup sauce into a small bowl, and stir in sour cream until smooth. (This will temper the sour cream so it doesn’t curdle when it hits the hot skillet.) Pour back into skillet, and stir to combine. Arrange chicken thighs and juices back in skillet and heat through, another 5 minutes or so. Serve over noodles topped with remaining chopped parsley.

––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Beef Stroganoff (Serves 4) The Russians, who devised this dish, apparently spared no expense and routinely used beef tenderloin. Cuts that are somewhat more economically accessible and work just as well include top sirloin, strip steak or flat iron steak. I have found excellent top sirloin (packed 5 or 6 steaks to a package) in Costco for a reasonable bulk price. Kroger on Bardstown Road often has meat specials in the center cooler, where I have found equally good prices on strip steak now and again. You can use the common button mushroom or any combination of others that suits your fancy.


Cooking with Ron_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 2/28/19 2:46 PM Page 19

cooking with ron | food

¼ cup olive oil, divided 4 tablespoons butter, divided ½ pound mushrooms, sliced, not too thinly 1 yellow onion, peeled and sliced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 pound beef (top sirloin, strip steak or flat iron steak, cut into slices about 2 inches by 1/2 inch) ¼ cup seasoned flour (season with salt and pepper) 4 cups beef broth ½ cup sour cream 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 12 ounces egg noodles 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces Chopped fresh parsley and fresh chives (for serving) Heat 2 tablespoons oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mush-

rooms, onions, garlic and thyme, season with salt and pepper, and cook, tossing often, until mushrooms are golden brown and tender, 10–12 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Pat the beef slices dry with paper towels. Toss the sliced beef in the seasoned flour until it is wellcoated, shaking off excess. Increase heat to high and heat 2 tablespoons oil and 1 tablespoon butter in same skillet. When oil is shimmery, cook beef in batches (to avoid crowding in the pan) until browned and beginning to crisp on all sides, 5–8 minutes. Transfer to bowl with mushroom mixture. Add broth to the skillet, bring to a simmer, and cook until reduced by half, 20–25 minutes. Ladle a ½ cup or so of the broth into a bowl and let cool a few minutes.Whisk in sour cream, Worcestershire sauce, and mustard until smooth; season with salt and pepper. Add the sour cream mixture back into the pan and simmer until sauce is thick and creamy. Add mushrooms and beef with any accumulated juices and cook, stirring occasionally, until just heated through. Meanwhile, cook egg noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally until al dente. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Add remaining butter, parsley and chives; toss until butter is melted. Arrange noodles in center of serving plate, and spoon Stroganoff over top. Garnish with additional parsley and chives. F&D

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 19


Bourbon_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:58 PM Page 20

liquids | spirits

BY SUSAN REIGLER | PHOTO BY DAN DRY

ost whiskey lovers today appreciate that there

M

are strict government guidelines attached to the manufacture of alcoholic beverages, including

bourbon. Drinkers of Kentucky’s favorite spirit know those guidelines include that the recipe of cooked grains (the mash) that goes into the fermentation tank has to be at least 51 percent corn, for example. The distillate must be aged in new charred oak containers (usually 53-gallon barrels), and only distilled water can be added before bottling. Absolutely no additional colors or flavors are allowed.

But throughout much of the 19th century, when whiskey consumption in the United States was even more common than it is today, buying good quality bourbon could be a pretty hit-or-miss enterprise. Most whiskey was sold by the barrel until the last few decades of the century. Bars and taverns purchased it that way. If you wanted to buy some for drinking at home, you took your own container to a store where the proprietor would fill it out of a barrel he had bought. However, if that barrel’s volume started to get low and whiskey demand was high when a new barrel wasn’t scheduled to arrive any time soon, a shopkeeper might very well top up the barrel with water. This had the obvious and unfortunate result of reducing the alcohol content and lightening the color. 20 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

No problem. Just add some tea or prune juice or maybe even a little creosote to darken the whiskey. It was easy enough to give the proof a boost with a good glug of kerosene. Yum. So, when Louisville whiskey salesman George Garvin Brown had the idea in 1870 to sell his bourbon exclusively in sealed glass bottles, his marketing innovation was more than welcomed. Glass bottles were still expensive to manufacture, but Brown branded this bottled spirit Old Forester and gambled that people would pay more for it, because the sealed bottle (with his signature on each label) was a promise of quality. He was right. There’s no better proof than the fact his company, Brown-Forman, is still in business and making Old Forester today - nearly a century and a half later. Still, even after the introduction of sealed glass bottles, whiskey hanky-panky did not go away. Many, though not all, whiskey rectifiers (people who bought barrels from various distilleries and bottled them under their own brands) could modify that product pretty much any way they wanted to during the time between the product leaving the barrel and entering the bottle. Adding neutral spirits, artificial coloring, and even some seriously bad ingredients such as sulphuric acid was common. (I am not making this up.) Even after such product tampering, it was perfectly legal to label the stuff “bourbon” or “whiskey.” By the 1890s, these practices were so widespread that distiller Col. E.H. Taylor, Jr. of Frankfort saw that some serious government intervention was needed. He contacted the Secretary of the U.S. Treasury, John G. Carlisle — who happened to have been a former congressman and senator from Kentucky — to help push new regu-


Bourbon_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 2:58 PM Page 21

spirits | liquids lations through Congress. Those regulations became the Bottled-inBond Act of 1897. For tax purposes, whiskey was already aged in federal government bonded warehouses.The law made sure that a bourbon (or rye) “bottled-in-bond” met guidelines that would assure the information on the whiskey label matched the contents of the bottle. In order to be classified as bottled-inbond, the bourbon had to be made at a single distillery by one distiller during a single distilling season (January-June or JulyDecember). It had to be aged a minimum of four years in a bonded warehouse and be bottled at exactly 100 proof (50 percent alcohol by volume). Furthermore, it bore a tax stamp on the neck that made its origins explicit. What Taylor had succeeded in doing was creating the very first federal consumer protection law in the United States. The safety of America’s entire food and beverage supply would eventually result from additional regulations — like the Pure Food and Drug Act — that were inspired by that 1897 law. The law has evolved since then. The Reagan administration eliminated the positions of the government gaugers who oversaw bonded warehouses in the 1980s, and the tax stamp was discontinued in 1984 as part of the Deficit Reduction Act. The rest of the rules have remained intact, and there are still a few brands of bonded bourbons on the market. While these products only make up about five percent of all bourbon brands, distillers and bourbon drinkers like them for the same reason they did when the Bottled-in-Bond Act came about in the first place: quality assurance. When you buy bourbon that states on its label that it is bottled-in-bond, you know what you are getting. Interestingly, they also represent some of the best bargains in bourbon. Many brands such as Evan Williams Bottled-in-Bond, Old Grand-Dad Bottled-in-Bond, Old Bardstown Bottled-in-Bond, and Very Old Barton Bottled-in-Bond can be found at retailers for under $25 a bottle. A good way to become acquainted with bottled-in-bond bourbons is to head to Bourbons Bistro on Frankfort Avenue where the knowledgeable staff will be happy to put together a bonded flight for you. You can also look for the following bottles on retail shelves. Each is an excellent sip.

BOTTLED-IN-BOND TASTING NOTES:

(Distilleries are listed in parentheses.) –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Col. E.H. Taylor, Jr. Small Batch (Buffalo Trace) Rich mouthfeel with rich caramel, vanilla, apple, honey, hazelnuts, and a sprinkling of nutmeg. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Early Times (Brown-Forman) Roasted corn with a dash of black pepper. Distinct pear fruit is especially prominent on the finish. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Henry McKenna, Single Barrel, 10 years old (Heaven Hill) Caramel apple with cherries, a little milk chocolate, and notes of leather, nutmeg and honey. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Jim Beam Bonded (Beam Suntory) Vanilla wafers, candy corn with some hints of tobacco and a little cherry hovering above a clean, oaky finish. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Evan Williams White Label (Heaven Hill) Crème brulee with candied almonds, apples and cinnamon. A very smooth sip with a sweet finish. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– New Riff (New Riff) Cinnamon, brown sugar, some butterscotch and a generous base of vanilla and caramel. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Old Bardstown (Willett) Almost chewy mouthfeel. Caramel and dark cherries with some cocoa and toasted oak and pepper. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Old Forester 1897 (Brown-Forman) Cinnamon coffee cake with vanilla icing. Fruity aromas and flavors include bananas and pears braced by more cinnamon. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Old Grand-Dad (Beam Suntory) Toffee and candied nuts with layers of vanilla and caramel, sweet baking spices and zest of orange peel. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Very Old Barton, 6-year-old (Barton 1792) Crème caramel, sweet cherries, cinnamon and nuts with a touch of tobacco leaf and sweet oak. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 21


Checks BB_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 4:52 PM Page 22

profile | check’s bbq & blues

By Susan Reigler | Photos by Dan Dry

22 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com


Checks BB_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 4:52 PM Page 23

check’s bbq & blues | profile

It’s Saturday night, and Check’s BBQ & Blues is bustling. Customers stream into the restaurant from its strip mall parking lot. Families with three generations of members, groups of friends, and couples seem to be represented in equal proportions. Tables in all three dining areas are filling fast. Almost as many people are leaving as arriving, but they’re gripping plastic carry-out bags bulging with ribs, smoked brisket, fried chicken and homemade sides. Louisville Fats, a three-piece blues band, can be heard above the buzz of conversation as they tune up in the far corner of the middle dining room. They’ll be playing from 7:00pm to 11:00pm.

A whole slab of St. Louis ribs.

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 23


Checks BB_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 4:52 PM Page 24

profile | check’s bbq & blues If live blues and fine barbecue aren’t enough to attract you to this comfortable restaurant just beyond the Gene Snyder Freeway, consider this: Check’s BBQ & Blues in Middletown is the easternmost outpost of Louisville’s Urban Bourbon Trail. Owners John Murrow and Todd Zaborac are serious about growing an already impressive bourbon list, too. They carry the complete series of Old Forester expressions (offered as specially priced flights) and also have some relatively hard to find bourbons such as Elmer T. Lee and Weller 12-Year-Old. In February, they hosted their first special bourbon event: a Pappy Tasting, featuring the famed Van Winkle bourbons (1/2 ounce samples of five different expressions from the 10-year to the 23-year). They plan on doing more special tastings as the bourbon list grows. If the name Check’s sounds familiar, it should. Murrow’s grandparents opened Check’s Café in Germantown 75 years ago, and popular fried fish sandwiches and fried chicken dinners have been served there ever since. Murrow took over ownership from his father “sometime around 2005.” So, why open a “satellite” Check’s in the far East End? It was more a case of carpe diem than a calculated plan. “I was at a local body shop, and a buddy of mine said there was a place he thought I’d like… He told me it was called Scotty’s Barbecue,” explained Murrow. “That conversation went by the wayside, but a couple of months later, I was selling a piece of [kitchen] equipment — a filter fryer — and it was Scotty who bought it. We started talking and he said, ‘Oh, yeah. I own this place and I’m looking to sell.’ ” Murrow didn't think at the time that he needed to take on another restaurant, but he already had a barbecue connection. For several years, Check’s had been one of the participating restaurants in the annual Germantown Schnitzelburg Blues Festival, which serves up barbecue every year. The Germantown café doesn't sell barbecue, so Murrow called his friend Zaborac — a barbecue enthusiast and a native of Owensboro, where barbecue is a big tradition — about partnering to buy a big smoker for the festival. That led to joking that they ought to open a barbecue restaurant. Then came the Scotty’s opportunity. (top) Check’s owners Todd Zaborac (left) and John Murrow. (center) Pappy tasting of five different expressions of Van Winkle bourbons from the 10-year to the 23-year. (left) A view of the bar area. 24 24


Checks BB_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 4:52 PM Page 25

“We originally thought the whole game plan was to just run it as Scotty’s,” recalled Murrow. “We knew it had a good customer base, and we could build on that.” But once the newly minted business partners took over the building, they found the grandfathered-in kitchen and bar fixtures would not be up to code under new ownership. “We had to gut the place and start over — redo everything,” said Zaborac. In addition to revamping the kitchen and bar, they had to redo the interior. They acquired space next door they turned into a third room — mostly used for private parties but open on the busy music night. They found a source for used horse farm fencing and purchased enough of the one-inch-thick red oak planks to panel much of the restaurant and use for door framing elements. The planks were sandblasted, leaving only traces of the original black paint in the fissures of the wood. The result is at once rustic, elegant, and warm. Appropriate for a barbecue joint, much of the décor consists of glowing neon beer signs and beer-branded electric clocks, but there’s also a row of mounted guitars signed by their former owners, including country music star Brad Paisley. Another wall has a display of signed, framed photographs — mostly of sports figures who have eaten at Check’s BBQ & Blues. “There are a surprising number of retired NFL players who live in Louisville,” Murrow remarked. And the restaurant is located less than two miles from Valhalla Golf Club, which has hosted the PGA Tournament more than once. “Phil Mickelson has been here and Fuzzy Zoeller, of course, when he was still playing,” added Murrow. The menu Murrow and Zaborac settled on for their incarnation of the restaurant was almost as much of a makeover as the interior. Their idea to keep the Scotty’s menu unravelled quickly. “We just didn't want to do pizza,” said Murrow. Which was probably just as well, since an outlet of a certain giant Louisville-based pizza chain anchors the strip mall. While they kept a few side dish recipes from the original Scotty’s, they reinvented both the menu and the theme. “We just went with what we like - barbecue, blues, and bourbon,” explained Zaborac, who is in charge of the daily operations (and the smoker). The new formula seems to be working. Wednesday is karaoke night, and a different blues (top) Check’s well stocked bar includes over 90 bourbons and a dozen beers on tap. (right) The private dining room seats 80 and is available for private parties. 25


Checks BB_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 4:52 PM Page 26

profile | CHECK’S BBQ & BLUES band is featured every Friday and Saturday. The parking area outside the restaurant fills so quickly on the very popular live music nights, they have started offering a free valet service. Murrow and Zaborac like to feature local talent, but they will also invite acts from farther away. “We've had bands from Owensboro and Cincinnati and several places in Indiana,” said Zaborac. He has plans to diversify the musical acts, too. “I’ll be going to New Orleans soon to talk to some bands. A lot travel a circuit between New Orleans and Chicago, so we would be on the way for them.” Until then, he’s busy presiding over the smoker. Not surprisingly, the barbecue menu includes both slow-smoked pork and slow-smoked chicken. The pork appears in a standard sandwich and as a dinner platter, but it is also featured in a meat lover’s dream of a sandwich called “The Porker.” This is a half-pound ground pork burger topped with four ounces of the pulled pork, four pieces of slab bacon, and an onion ring. The house hot barbecue sauce lights it up. Zaborac says he is especially proud of his brisket, and he should be. Served sliced in a platter or on a sandwich, it is lightly seasoned, smoky, and meltingly tender. It’s also used in the spicy brisket chili, which can be served with or without spaghetti.There’s the option of adding cheese and/or onion. Ribs enthusiasts will be very happy here, especially if you favor the dry-rubbed Memphis style. If you really need to add sauce, that’s an option, but it’s absolutely not necessary. These St. Louis cut slabs and half slabs are seasoned with the spicy rub and smoked and cooked to fall-off-the-bone perfection with just the right amount of crisp bark. Like the original Check’s Cafe, Scotty’s was known for its fried chicken. So, Morrow knew he had to offer it. You can order a fried chicken dinner with a pair of sides and a roll, or simply order it by the piece. Other imports from the Germantown café to the East End menu are the beloved bean soup and fried fish sandwich. It would be perfectly possible to assemble a filling meal from the starters list alone. The pulled pork is featured in BBQ nachos with the option of substituting the brisket for the pork. Other dishes from the list include jalapeño poppers, deep-fried mushrooms with horseradish sauce, pan-fried oysters, and pretzel bread with beer cheese. (top) The smoke brisket chili. (center) “The Porker” a half-pound pork burger topped with pulled pork, bacon, onion rings and BBQ sauce. (left) Check’s fried chicken dinner. 26


Checks BB_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 4:52 PM Page 27

If you have somehow managed to save room for dessert, Derby Pie®, cheesecake, and coconut meringue pie are available. But bourbon lovers should choose the house-made bread pudding, which is made with an Old Forester Signature (100 proof) glaze. Asked if being the proprietor of two successful restaurants is tough, Murrow is thoughtful. He admitted that it could sometimes be a balancing act. But he then grinned and said, “People have said to me a million times, ‘Oh, the restaurant business is hard,’ but there’s really no big secret to it. Make your food good and take care of your customers, and you’ll do fine.” F&D (right) Pork BBQ sandwich. (far right) Pretzel bread with beer cheese. (below) The fish sandwich made legendary at Check’s Café in Germantown.

27


TV Chefs_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:01 PM Page 28

feature | kentucky chefs on tv

Kentucky Food Is Getting What does it mean for the chefs we see on TV? Yes. No. Checking. Quickfire. Order Up. These are the terms you might hear a chef use if you walk through a restaurant kitchen but not so much in a cooking show television kitchen where the chefs have to adapt and use full sentences for the camera. Kentucky native Sara Bradley said that was just one of the ways that she had to learn and adapt while competing on Bravo’s current Kentuckybased season of Top Chef. “I think Top Chef has made such a lasting effect on the diets and philosophies of so many Americans,” Top Chef host Padma Lakshmi told Food & Dining. “When I was a teenager, I didn’t know the difference between a chiffonade and julienne, and now I meet 13-year-olds on the street when I’m hailing a cab in New York who tell me they had a Quickfire Challenge at their sleepover.”

28 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Famous ith around-the-clock food programming available, it seems obvious that all those television food shows must have an impact on the culinary industry and how the country thinks about food. With so many Kentucky and Louisville chefs beginning to show up on Chopped, MasterChef, Top Chef and others, it seems our culinary traditions and personalities are taking their seat at the national table, influencing much larger audiences than before. The differences between cooking in restaurants and cooking for cameras has been bouncing around in my head ever since F&D was invited to spend the day on the Top Chef set in a warehouse south of Louisville. I watched contestants whip up their meals while fielding questions from the crew as cameras loomed in their personal space. While home viewers only see the chefs and hosts, the reality is chefs are running around, dodging what looked like at least a dozen crew members hovering near them — camera people, audio people, production assistants, producers and visiting press members. Thinking about my own experience working in non-food-based television production, I knew television must be a new and exciting if not frustrating experience for chefs. One chef in particular that day looked as if he might have a heart attack as he whisked furiously. So, I set out to speak with a selection of Louisville culinary professionals to learn more about how their experiences surprised or changed them as they have represented our city and state to a national audience. Chef Edward Lee has an extensive and growing list of television credits. He was the first Kentuckian to compete on Top Chef in 2012 and has been a guest judge on Chopped, Top Chef and MasterChef in addition to being featured on Mind of a Chef Season 3 and hosting his own PBS show Culinary Genius, which garnered him an Emmy nomination. He pointed out that there are definite

W

BY JESSICA MATHIS

differences between cooking on television and in your own kitchen. They have nothing to do with each other. What you see on Chopped and Top Chef is exactly the opposite of what happens in a restaurant,” he explained. “We don’t walk into a kitchen an hour before service and decide to put something on the menu and then scramble. If anything, we take days, weeks or even months to plan menus and resource ingredients and we methodically test and retest dishes and talk about them with coworkers. It’s collaborative and that’s how menus come about. No one cooks by themselves, and no one cooks against a clock. That’s all made up.” That’s not entirely true. Fond owner Madeleine Dee has worked alone for quite some time as a personal chef and as the owner/chef of a small 12-seat reservation-only restaurant. She was recommended by Lee to be a Chopped competitor. “I always had my space where I knew where everything was and was in control of everything,” said Dee, who competed on the 500th episode of Chopped titled “Million Dollar Baskets.” “Being thrown into this ridiculous environment, where you have twenty minutes, brings out the absolute best in the way that you think or the absolute worst. I and the other chefs on this episode were chosen because we are all fine dining chefs who do fussy beautiful artistic food that takes a lot of time to plan and prepare.” She went on to say they were given incredible and expensive ingredients (like $2,000 bagels with gold flakes and precooked Wagyu beef patties) but none of them were supposed to be cooked. “So we were basically given ingredients you aren’t supposed to cook and then told to go and cook on national television to be harshly judged,” she pointed out. “We all were sitting back in the stew room thinking ‘this isn’t what we do.’ We usually overthink and plan everything and


TV Chefs_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:01 PM Page 29

kentucky chefs on tv | feature perfectly arrange everything on the plate with tweezers.” SuperChefs Executive Chef and Owner Darnell Ferguson has won Guy’s Grocery Games three out of the five times he has competed and recently had another Food Network win on the Ultimate Thanksgiving Challenge. He commented on why competitions make for good television but aren’t for everyone. “It takes out the element of just being great as a chef,” he said. “You have to be great at other things. You gotta be on your feet. It makes sense on TV because of the competition but not in real life. There’s a lot of uncertainty you can’t plan for.” Bradley mentioned that the competitions do have a lot of unknown factors but that the environment is not as competitive as you might think; chefs occasionally helped each other on the Top Chef set. “Chefs are leaders. We’re used to leading teams in the kitchen, and it’s natural that if we see someone struggling, we want to reach out and help them,” she said. “I guess you can’t take that out of us.” When it comes down to it, though, competitors hope to win, and Louisville chefs have also been collecting victories lately. In February, two Louisville chefs went head to head for the first time ever on Chopped. Chef and owner Dallas Sara Bradley on Top Chef with guest judge Edward Lee and Tom Colicchio (photo courtesy of David Moir/Bravo)

McGarity (The Fat Lamb, Portage House) said he was very surprised to see Peng Looi Chef and Co-owner of August Moon when he arrived at the studio to compete. Neither of them knew the other would be there. “It wasn’t that competitive between us because we have known each other for a long time, and we know how the other cooks,” said McGarity. “Once we got out there, I just zoned out. You just kind of focus on what you’re doing, and hopefully you’ll get it out in time. It’s very daunting to have the national celebrity chefs watching you very closely as you try not to do anything stupid while you run around trying to find everything.” McGarity’s focus paid off. Looi was chopped after the entrée round, but McGarity went on to the final round to win the chicken-based episode. He says he was very happy Looi was there. “It was really neat to be together with someone you know to experience that together,” McGarity said. “I told him in the beginning, we had a 50/50 chance of bringing the win home to Louisville.” Looi said that the Chopped experience was very gratifying even though he didn’t win. “I’m happy that I lost to a great chef,” he said, admitting that he struggled most with getting things ready and plated in the short amount of time available while dodging the crew.”It’s very stressful.That’s one thing I’m not used to — cameras above you, to the left of

you, the right of you, and under you. It’s a different ballgame.” When McGarity won, he brought home the third Louisville Chopped victory in the last year and the second in just-underway 2019. Noam Blitzer, former sous chef at Proof on Main, won in April 2018, and Volare Executive Chef Joshua Moore just won on a Chopped Episode in January. Moore said the competition was one of the toughest things he’s done in his culinary career but that he thrives on stress. He was more worried about getting unknown ingredients that would cause him to put out something he was not proud of. “I thought going into the experience, that as long as I don’t completely mess up my food and I’m proud of the plates I put out — whatever the outcome — I’ll be happy. And I’m really proud of my dishes.” Dee said the exact opposite, saying she does not thrive in a Chopped-type environment. To add to the pressure, it was the first episode where everyone was surprised by Martha Stewart — one of Dee’s idols — being added as a permanent judge. “I had to step away from the kitchen a couple times just to hyperventilate,” she said before talking about being chopped after the second round for an entrée that was too small. “They just kind of say, ‘Thank you’ and

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 29


TV Chefs_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:01 PM Page 30

(top) Gerron Hurt, season 9 winner of MasterChef with Gordon Ramsay and Aarón Sanchez (photo courtesy of FOX). Several of the many local chefs that competed on Chopped (clockwise, from left center) Chef Madeleine Dee; Chef Peng Looi; Chef Dallas McGarity and Chef Josh Moore (photos courtesy of Food Network).

30 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

‘Have a nice life’ and put you out on the streets of Manhattan. I went back to my hotel and cried my eyes out, thinking my life was over.” Her life wasn’t over, though. She discovered what many competitors commented on — an overwhelmingly positive response from the audience. Every chef said they noticed an

increase in their business and had people travel from all over the country to visit their restaurants. “Five minutes into watching the episode, I had 300 notifications on my phone from people all over saying, ’we really like you’ and just responding to me in such a positive way for daring to put myself out there,” Dee remembered with a smile. “Embarrassing myself on national television truly changed my life in every area, and I wouldn’t trade it for the world.” Bradley brought up a great point. Being on national television certainly brought exposure to her restaurant, but it also brought exposure to Paducah, Kentucky. “People may not have ever heard of Paducah before,” she said. “Now people have traveled to come to my restaurant, and while they’re in town, they also need gas and other items, so the tourism has had a great impact.” While competitions are high stress, but offer high rewards of exposure and new fans, non-competition shows can, too. One might assume they’re less stressful, but that’s not the case according to Jesse and Liz Huot who own Oskar’s Slider Bar and Grind Burger Kitchen, which has been featured on several shows like Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives and a series produced by Bulleit Bourbon in Australia about “makers” – entrepreneurs who build businesses from scratch like the Huots did with a food truck. Jesse said that Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives was very stressful, because they had to do a deep dive clean of their restaurant and prepare trays upon trays of spices and ingredients, so they would have three of each for multiple takes of each shot. “I was really frustrated when they wanted so much stuff, but when we were filming it went so seamlessly. But, it was still tough,” he explained. “You would think shots of the spices would be stress free, but they wanted to see each grain of the ingredient fall from the ramekin. They wanted the hoods turned off but everything in the kitchen on. So, it was like 150 degrees, and they wanted everything over and over again. The producer and I even yelled at each other. It took me until the second day to just shut up and realize they’re the pros, and they’re there to make us look good.” He went on to bring up one similarity between his production experience and the kitchen: they’re both high stress and prone to flare ups, but at the end of the day, everyone


TV Chefs_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:01 PM Page 31

KENTUCKY CHEFS ON TV | FEATURE celebrates the victories together; they’re still friends with the production team. Like the other chefs, he said it definitely opened doors for them. “If it weren’t for being featured on Diners, Drive Ins and Dives, Oskar’s wouldn’t have happened,” Liz explained, giving credit to the business increase after being featured on the show. Jesse had a little advice to offer, too. He reminisced about their first television appearance on a Canadian food truck show when they were first starting out. He said the producer kept feeding them very cheesy lines to say, and he will never acquiesce to that again. “Just be mindful that you don’t have to say what they ask you to. You should be prepared with some things you want to say and can always reply ‘How about I say it like this?’ You have to keep in mind, they’re going to do whatever makes for good TV. They’re going to get you nervous and tired and then feed you lines. You never know who they are going to pick to come off as a jerk.” Lee also warned any chefs considering television, saying “I think they create the challenges and people have different reactions and stress levels, and when that happens, TV is watching you, and they’ll run with it.That may not be you

in your calm moments, but maybe it’s you reacting to a stressful environment. They’re not lying, but they do stress people out.” The most recent MasterChef winner, Gerron Hurt, lives and teaches elementary school in Nashville now but is a Louisville native. He said the competition could be stressful, but he had a reason to maintain his image. “It’s a whole new world being put in the spotlight, and it can be difficult staying true to yourself,” he shared. “But it’s important to remember you have all these little people at home who are watching every move you make. It’s not very often kids see someone like them make it big, so you have this responsibility to yourself, to these kids at home... It’s important to do your best and remember to present yourself in a way that you are someone to look up to.” That’s quite a lesson to remember. Each of these chefs brought back their own lessons. Dee learned to be braver about connecting with people; Lee said you learn to smile all the time. The Huots have learned to pick and choose which appearances will benefit sales and to guard how they are represented. Moore has incorporated new ingredients he’d never heard of into his restaurant menu, and Ferguson said

the whole reason he began doing the competitions was to learn about himself. “It’s easy for me to be creative on my own schedule,” he said. “but am I creative when out of my element? I wanted to make sure I am who I think I am.” Since MasterChef pits non-professional home chefs against each other, Hurt said he learned a great deal. “Cooking for brothers and sisters all the time is a passion,” he said. “You don’t really think about what you’re strategically putting on a plate. You just slop it on. The show really taught me to think about it and think about the flavor profiles of what’s going on the plate — how to pair foods and how to refine how much you put on a plate before it’s enough, because people eat with their eyes, so you want to make it attractive,” he recounted. All of the chefs said anyone considering television competitions should take the leap, but Lee had one more bit of advice for anyone thinking about competitions. “I think there’s a lot of content out there and they should watch as much as possible and realize it’s a whole different world and a different vocabulary, and a whole different skill set. It is about cooking, but it’s not about restaurants.” F&D

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 31


Easy Entertaining_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:04 PM Page 32

food | easy entertaining

EASY Chopped entertaining BY TIM & LORI LAIRD PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

When we throw a Derby party, we think big. We have been collaborating for our Easy Entertaining parties with local chefs for over 10 years, and they have given us many great food ideas. But this past year was truly a time for the rest of the world to know what we have known for a while — Kentucky chefs can cook with the best. Kentucky chefs have proven this by appearing on — and sometimes winning — competitive cooking TV shows like Chopped, Top Chef, Food Network Star and MasterChef. hen we went through the roster of local chefs who have made their mark under the bright lights of TV studios, enduring the near-impossible time constraints of cooking competitions, we got the idea for our Derby party this year. We invited three chefs who have competed on Food Network's Chopped, a timed contest in which the competing chefs are presented with a basket of ingredients in

W

32 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

F&D Style

each of three rounds. Our chefs were Josh Moore, chef and co-owner of Volare, 2300 Frankfort Ave; Peng Looi, chef and partner in August Moon, 2269 Lexington Rd.; and Madeleine Dee, chef and owner of Fond, 2520 Frankfort Ave. We asked a fourth chef, David Danielson — Executive Chef at Churchill Downs and Owner of Old Stone Inn in Simpsonville, who has multiple television credits and knows a thing or two about Derby Food — to create the basket of ingredients based on local Derby time ingredients. Chef Danielson's baskets held a bottle of Old Forester Bourbon, Finchville Farms country ham, Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese, sorghum, mint, oysters, Derby-Pie®, and Modjeska candies (invented right here in Louisville). We challenged the chefs to make two dishes using at least two of the basket ingredients (and whatever else they needed from a basic pantry). One of the dishes needed to be their own interpretation of a classic Derby dish. We skipped the Chopped style time limits, and we joined in the creative challenge by using ingredients from the basket to devise a cocktail that would pair well with their dishes. Chef Moore was inspired by the country ham and Kenny’s Cheese in the basket and used them to create pasta with country ham, kale and carrots. “At Derby time, kale and carrots are coming into season, and they make a beautiful dish with all the colors,” Moore explained. He used Kenny’s Asiago cheese for a light wine and cheese cream sauce for the pasta. Moore decided to be postmodern and

“deconstructed” the classic Derby-Pie®. “I cut it into Graham cracker-sized squares, sandwiched a Modjeska between the slices, toasted it, and finished the dish with a bourbon chocolate sauce made with Cellar Door bittersweet chocolate and the Old Forester Bourbon in the basket,” Moore said. Peng Looi drew on his Malaysian culinary roots and his long tenure here in Louisville to fuse the two traditions by making a ubiquitous Asian street food — steamed buns filled with shredded braised pork belly and seasoned with sorghum, star anise, ginger and garlic. “Usually Chinese rice wine is used to braise, but I used bourbon and sorghum,” Looi said. Looi went on to say that on a recent trip to Charleston, he ate a lot of shrimp and grits, and they were all done differently. So, he decided that his idea for “Asian Shrimp and Grits” would be a perfectly fine additional variation on this classic Southern dish. “I did the shrimp with Thai curry,” Looi said, “and, keeping with my love of combining world flavors, I served it over Italian yellow corn polenta rather than the traditional white corn grits.” Looi also pointed out that, while steamed buns might seem like an exotic idea, you can shop in Asian food markets for frozen steamed buns, which can be stuffed with lots of different fillings. His braised pork would be a good place to start your own culinary explorations. Madeleine Dee’s attention gravitated immediately to the oysters, which she transformed into “High Roller” oysters. “I made a champagne batter, which is like tempura but made with champagne


Easy Entertaining_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:04 PM Page 33

easy entertaining | food

(from left) Madeleine Dee, Peng Looi, Josh Moore, Tim Laird, Lori Laird and David Danielson. instead of beer,” Dee explained. “I battered super-cold oysters and fried them in hot oil, which makes the batter puff up and trap the cold oyster in the middle. It is hot and crispy on the outside and cold and juicy inside. You can eat them right away (which I think is definitely the best way), or you can put them onto an oyster shell and serve them on a bed of ice — or add them on an arugula salad.” Challenged to do something a bit differ-

ent with our favorite Derby snack, Benedictine, she created delicate Benedictine finger sandwiches with mint. “I started with the Benedictine base of cucumber juice and cream cheese and blended in some fresh green herbs and an avocado, which makes the Benedictine a vibrant natural green with no food coloring.” She made finger sandwiches but pointed out that the mixture makes a great crudités dip, too.

And so, we’re off to the races this year with some great new recipes from our local televised chef friends, and we look forward to seeing more Louisville talent race against the clock on competitive food shows in the coming year. Meanwhile, the winner of this challenge was…you, our readers! Now you can make and enjoy the dishes, too. We’re setting the timer…Get ready; get set… Go, baby, go! www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 33


Easy Entertaining_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:04 PM Page 34

Madeleine Dee • Fond –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

High Roller Oysters (Serves 6)

1 1 1 12 18 1

cup all-purpose flour generous teaspoon of salt tablespoon baking powder ounces dry champagne whole oysters, chilled whole lemon

Preheat a deep-fryer to 375-400 degrees. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder. Combine the champagne with the dry ingredients until smooth (the mixture should resemble thin pancake batter). Shuck ice-cold oysters directly into the bowl, gently coating them with batter. Drop into fryer and cook till a pale golden brown. Use a slotted spoon to remove the oysters and drain on paper towels. Finish with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

NOTES: For an impressive presentation, serve these oysters immediately with a few leaves of baby arugula and a squeeze of lemon in a sanitized oyster shell perched on top of a small bowl of salt.

34 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Green Goddess Benedictine Sandwiches (Makes about 1 quart)

2 cups English cucumber, peeled and chopped 2 8-ounce packs cream cheese, softened

1 ripe avocado, peeled and seed removed ¼ teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon salt, plus a sprinkle ½ fresh lemon, zested 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ cup sour cream


Easy Entertaining_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:04 PM Page 35

easy entertaining | food 2 tablespoons chives, finely chopped 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped ¼ cup fresh mint, chopped 2 tablespoons shallots, minced (optional) Salt and pepper Add a sprinkle of salt to the chopped cucumbers and lay them in a large bowl on top of a thin layer of paper towels. Fold the edges in to cover the cucumbers and place something heavy directly on top. Set aside for at least 10 minutes. Squeeze as much liquid from the cucumbers as you can. Remove them from the paper towels and place them in a dry bowl. This process allows you to end up with a thick Benedictine that isn’t watery. Use a mixer to combine the cream cheese, avocado, black pepper and salt, lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic powder and sour cream. Beat vigorously until smooth and creamy; then lower the speed and blend in the chives, tarragon, mint, shallots (if using), and cucumbers. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve on slices of bread, garnished with mint and cucumber slices to make beautiful finger sandwiches. You can also serve this spread as a crudités dip.

Peng Looi • August Moon –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Shrimp and “Grits” (Serves 4) “

For “grits”: 2 cups heavy cream Salt and pepper to taste 1 cup quick polenta In a medium sauce pan, heat heavy cream with salt and pepper. When cream boils, turn heat to low and pour in polenta slowly while whisking. Keep whisking until polenta thickens and is creamy (about 10 minutes). Remove from heat.

For shrimp: 2 1 ½ 2 2 6 1

tablespoons olive oil garlic clove, minced white onion, diced whole shallots, sliced tablespoons Thai red curry paste ounces coconut milk pound large shrimp, shelled and deveined

½ teaspoon sugar 3 whole okra, sliced Salt and pepper to taste In a large sauté pan on medium heat, heat olive oil until shimmery; then add garlic, shallots and onion. Cook for about five minutes until onion turns translucent. Add curry paste and stir for about another three minutes to make sure the oil separates. Add coconut milk and continue to simmer for an additional 10 minutes. Add shrimp, sugar, okra, salt and pepper and cook for an additional five minutes until shrimp are cooked. Shrimp should look pinkish-white when fully cooked. Remove from heat. Serve over polenta and garnish with scallion and fresh red pepper, –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Bourbon-braised Pork Belly, Lotus Leaf Bun and Bean Sprout Slaw (Serves 4)

For lotus buns: 1 pack frozen lotus buns (available at Asian markets)

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 35


Easy Entertaining_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:04 PM Page 36

food | easy entertaining

Leave frozen lotus buns in refrigerator to thaw overnight. Steam six lotus buns on high heat for 15 mins or until soft. Set aside.

For braised pork belly: 1 1 ½ 1 2 5 2 2 1

pound pork belly cup rice wine cup bourbon tablespoon soy sauce teaspoons mushroom soy slices fresh ginger star anise bay leaves tablespoon sorghum

Put slab of pork belly into a medium stock pot filled with cold water (enough to cover the meat completely). Bring the pot to a full boil and cook for 20 minutes. Use a spoon to skim off the froth as it rises to the surface. Drain and set aside. In a separate medium stock pot over medium heat, heat all the other ingredients (except for the sorghum) for about five minutes. Add the drained pork, cover pot and reduce heat to a simmer. Leave it to simmer for about an hour and a half. Check water level at one hour. Add small amount of water to keep covered if necessary.

36 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Take out the pork belly with a straining spoon. Add the sorghum to the remaining liquid. Turn the heat up to the highest level, cook uncovered and stir from time to time until the juice becomes thick. Put the pork back to the pot. Stir around gently until every piece of meat is coated by the sauce. Remove from heat.

For bean sprout slaw: ½ teaspoon sugar Salt and pepper ½ cup rice vinegar 1 cup fresh bean sprout ½ cup cucumber, peeled and julienned ½ cup carrot, scraped and julienned ½ cup daikon, scraped and julienned In a non-reactive bowl, whisk the salt, pepper, sugar and rice vinegar. Add the four vegetables and let set for half an hour. Drain liquid and set aside. Place a slice of braised pork belly inside the warm lotus bun and top with bean sprout slaw. Serve immediately.


Easy Entertaining_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:04 PM Page 37

easy entertaining | food

Joshua D. Moore • Volare –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Pappardelle with Country Ham and Spring Veggies (Serves 6)

1 pound of pappardelle pasta (get boxed at the supermarket, fresh-made at Lotsa Pasta, or if you really want to go all out, see Chef Moore’s recipe below.) 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon chopped fresh garlic ½ pound Finchville Farms country ham, sliced thin and julienned 1 carrot, scraped and sliced 1 bunch kale, ribs removed and leaves cut into julienne ½ cup white wine 1½ cups heavy cream 1 teaspoon fresh chopped herbs (basil and Italian parsley) Salt and pepper ½ cup grated Kenny’s Cheese Asiago, grated In a sauté pan, combine olive oil, garlic, country ham, carrots and kale. Sauté mixture until the garlic is toasted and kale is limp. Deglaze pan with white wine. Add heavy cream, herbs and Asiago. Let sauce reduce for several minutes. While the sauce is being made have a pot of water boiling for the pappardelle ribbons. Drop the pasta in the boiling water and cook according to package directions. When al dente, toss the pasta with the sauce and serve.

BONUS | For the pasta: Note: The easiest way to make this dish is to pick up fresh pasta at the store — this is “Easy Entertaining” after all. But when you have one of the best pasta makers in Louisville willing to share his secrets, you should take note. Clip and save would be our advice. Bob’s Red Mill and King Arthur “OO” flour is available in the health food sections of many supermarkets.

5 1 ½ 3½

eggs teaspoon extra virgin olive oil teaspoon fine sea salt cups “00” flour

Using a stand mixer, add the floor, eggs, olive oil and salt into the mixing bowl. Attach bowl and dough hook. Turn to speed two and mix for 30 to 60 seconds. Add more water if the dough is too dry, in one teaspoon increments. Turn to speed one and knead for two minutes. Remove the dough and knead by hand for

two minutes. Let it rest, covered with a barely damp towel, for 20 to 30 minutes. Cut dough into four pieces before processing with pasta sheet attachment. Take one piece and flatten into a rectangular shape, adding flour to both sides. Be sure to cover the other pieces with a towel. Attach the pasta sheet roller to stand mixer and set it to #1. Turn on the stand mixer to speed 2 and run the pasta dough through the pasta sheet roller. While on #1, fold the dough in half and run it through again. I do this several times. Adding a little bit of flour on each side of the dough again, change setting to #2 and pass the pasta dough through the sheet roller. I do this twice and then twice each on #3 and then #4. Cut the pasta sheets into pappardelle noodles.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Derby-Pie® S’mores with Bourbon Sauce (Serves 6)

2 Derby-Pies®, each cut into 6 squares 1 3.5 ounce bar of Cellar Door 55% chocolate ¾ cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons bourbon ½ pint fresh raspberries, optional Place the Modjeskas in between two squares of Derby Pie and place in a 350 degree oven for five minutes. While the s’more is baking, combine the chocolate, cream and bourbon over medium heat until chocolate is melted. Serve the s’more warm with bourbon chocolate sauce over top and fresh raspberries.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Kentucky Proud Julep In a mixing glass, add: 8-10 mint leaves and ½ ounce Woodford Reserve Bourbon, gently muddled together 1½ ounces Woodford Reserve Bourbon 1 teaspoon sorghum Shake or stir vigorously, and then strain into a tall glass with crushed ice. Garnish with a mint sprig and skewer of country ham. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 37


Ed Lee_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:07 PM Page 38

profile | chef edward lee

By Michael L. Jones | Photos by Dan Dry

38 Spring 2019Â www.foodanddine.com


Ed Lee_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:07 PM Page 39

chef edward lee | profile

hen Edward Lee was a 13-year-old kid growing up in Brooklyn, New York, he used to serve as a lookout while his friend Eric sprayed his graffiti tag on the side of subway cars. One day, Eric caught Lee off guard by throwing the paint can to him, so he could leave his mark, too. Lee couldn’t think of anything to write, so he just sprayed “Eddie” before looking sheepish as Eric laughed at him.

Lee reminisced about this incident in the third season of the Emmy-nominated PBS documentary series Mind of a Chef. He explained that a graffiti tag, like a chef ’s culinary style, is supposed to serve as a personal signature. Lee remembered watching as Eric drew the same line, the same diagonal, and the same circle each time to create his tag. But as he got older, Lee realized his friend was not actually recreating the same tag, because the human element involved in the execution meant that it was slightly different each time. This revelation had an enormous impact on Lee’s perspective on cooking. He realized that all his dishes, like Eric’s tags, were just variations of an ideal that he carried in his mind. “I make the same dish every night. It’s the same recipe, but everything is going to be a little bit different,” he said in the documentary. “The tag will evolve over time, but you never have a record of what you did six months ago to compare it against, because it’s gone. The only thing you have to refer to is what’s in your head.There is something so beautiful about that, and yet so crushingly tragic.” By accepting the inevitability of change, Lee opened himself up to new ingredients and new techniques. He realized that when people said something was “authentic,” they were trying to keep the food from changing. This led him to develop a culinary style that sits comfortably at the intersection of many different traditions and cultures, drawing inspiration from his Korean heritage, his training in New York kitchens, and his embracement of Kentucky.

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 39


Ed Lee_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:07 PM Page 40

Lee recently sat down with F&D to talk about his growing restaurant group, his work on television and how media has changed food culture. The chef was particularly buoyant about the uptick he’s seen in the local culinary scene since he moved to the city more than 15 years ago. “There is a national spotlight on the food scene here that didn’t exist even eight years ago. It’s a combination of things — chefs, farmers and bartenders. You can’t take away the impact that bourbon has had on the popularity of Kentucky. That’s the core that holds everything together. We’ve seen tourism here go up exponentially from bourbon,” he said. Lee operates three establishments in Louisville: 610 Magnolia, which offers a modern approach to Southern cuisine; MilkWood, a fusion of Korean and Southern food culture, and Whiskey Dry, a high-end whiskey and burger bar. Succotash, Lee’s progressive takes on classic Southern favorites, has locations in National Harbor, Maryland and Washington, DC. Lee learned to cook by watching his grandmother in the kitchen when he was growing up in Brooklyn. As a teenager, he worked in restaurants across New York, where he first encountered the French culinary tradition. After receiving a degree in English literature from New York University, he decided his time was better spent in the kitchen than discussing the finer points of Henry James. Lee’s rise to the top of the culinary world started with a road trip. After he began to think seriously about cooking, Lee realized that although he had visited Europe and Asia, he knew nothing about America. He decided to take a road trip around the South and Midwest to see how people in those places were eating and living. Lee ended up in Louisville during the Kentucky Derby festivities and found his way to 610 Magnolia, which is housed in a beautiful Victorian home near Central Park. Chef Ed Garber operated the restaurant for more than 20 years before Lee discovered it. The restaurant was known for the exclusivity of its highclass clientele and the quality of its traditional dishes. Lee and Garber hit it off. When the older chef decided to retire the following year, he called Lee in New York to see if he was interested in taking over. Lee took the leap, throwing himself into the task of transforming 610 Magnolia into the eclectic, internationally influenced institution patrons love today.

(top) Whiskey Dry’s “Beast Burger” with Thousand Island dressing, grilled onions and American cheese. (center) Lee’s three restaurants: 610 Magnolia, 610 Magnolia Ave., Milkwood, 316 W. Main St. and Whiskey Dry, 412 S. Fourth St. (left) MilkWood’s salmon with yellow curry, sweet potato, smoked coconut sambal and pickled kumquat. 40 40


Ed Lee_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:07 PM Page 41

chef edward lee | profile Lee took advantage of the availability of organic ingredients in the Kentuckiana region to bring a farm-to-table approach to his restaurant. Longtime fans of Garber’s establishment were not happy about the changes at first, but the new menu landed Lee on the national culinary radar and led to appearances at the prestigious James Beard House in New York City. “The move to Louisville just signaled a big shift in the Universe for me,” Lee admitted. “When I was living in New York, if someone had said, ‘you’re going to take over an old dying restaurant in Louisville and turn it into a national thing,’ I would have thought they were crazy. Ever since that, I’ve kept my mind open because you never know where the world will take you.”

(right) 610 Magnolia’s chawanmushi served in an eggshell with uni, spoonbill caviar, finger lime and Buddha’s Hand. (far right) Mushroom tart of poached enoki, pickled chanterelles and tempura maitake mushrooms from 610 Magnolia.

Guinea fowl roulade with pork foie gras sausage, cranberry beans, turnip greens and red currants (610 Magnolia).

41


Ed Lee_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:07 PM Page 42

profile | chef edward lee It was a feature on 610 Magnolia in Gourmet Magazine that led to Lee’s second career on television, beginning with cooking competition shows like Iron Chef America and Top Chef (Season 9). Since, then he has appeared as a guest judge multiple times on Top Chef, MasterChef, and Chopped. The producers of Iron Chef America invited him on the show in 2010. Lee was reluctant at first, because he didn’t watch much television and didn’t know how it would be perceived by the culinary community. Ultimately, he was intrigued enough to accept the offer. As most people know by now, Iron Chef America contestants create three dishes using a secret ingredient. The producers provided Lee a list of three potential secret ingredients (blue cheese, tongues and cheeks, and a Hawaiian fish), but he didn’t know which one they would pick until the day of the show. With only about a month to prepare for his kitchen battle, Lee and two assistants spent two Sundays experimenting with menus and practicing with a pressure cooker (something they did not use at 610 Magnolia). When the time came for his appearance, Lee was pitted against the newest Iron Chef,

Duck confit bibimbap (MilkWood).

42

Jose Garces of Tupilano’s in New Jersey. The secret ingredient turned out to be tongues and cheeks, which was comforting to Lee because of his Korean heritage. He defeated Garces with a trio of dishes that included a CowTongue Reuben, Sauerkraut Soup and Duck Tongue Tempura. The experience filming Top Chef was vastly different for Lee, because in addition to competing in the kitchen, he had to live with the other contestants for six weeks. Lee made it to the top five out of 16 contestants on Top Chef. Part of the difficulty of the show for him was making dishes that he wouldn’t normally cook. That is partly why he decided to move on from competing to producing and hosting programs of his own. Lee received a daytime Emmy nomination for his role as host on Mind of a Chef, and his most recent production is a feature documentary called “Fermented.” “With Iron Chef America and Top Chef, I had no control. I was just a contestant on a TV show. I pride myself on the things I have helped produce and direct,” he explained. Lee said success in the restaurant industry does not automatically translate into success on television because they require two differ-

ent skill sets. Your food might be the thing that catches the eye of a producer, he said, but cooking is only a small part of what goes into a television production. Making a show involves learning lines, being able to interact with people on camera and bringing energy to your performance after sitting in the green room for several hours. Lee’s career extends to writing as well. He has authored two cookbooks: Smoke & Pickles, a chronicle of his unconventional journey from the kitchens of Brooklyn to becoming a lauded Southern chef; and Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef’s Journey to Discover America’s New Melting Pot Cuisine. Lee has also published articles in Gastronomica, Esquire, Organic Gardening and many other journals. Lee said he enjoys working in the kitchen, producing television shows, and writing books. Also, Chef Edward Lee’s Sambal Hot Sauce is available from Bourbon Barrel Foods, but he does not want local diners getting confused about where his priorities lie. “I do a lot of TV, but my primary job and my primary talent is still running a restaurant, he said. “I think that’s an important distinction. I still want to be a restaurateur and chef at the


Ed Lee_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 2/28/19 5:07 PM Page 43

chef edward lee | profile end of the day. I still work in collaboration with all my chefs. I enjoy getting out there and making sure we’re pushing the envelope.” Lee said he can work on several different projects at once because of the support system he has constructed. This includes the chefs at each restaurant as well as people in other positions to integrate the overall operations of his business interests. Culinary Director Kevin Ashworth is among the employees who have been with Lee the longest. “When I first started, he’d already taped Iron Chef, but it was the start of him being on TV and having that large media presence. I’ve been kind of the support system while he goes on Top Chef and does Mind of a Chef,” Ashworth said. On several occasions, the popularity of one of Lee’s television appearances has impacted his restaurants. Ashworth remembered Lee making a meatloaf with a fried egg on a show. The next day, he said, so many people came to 610 Magnolia asking for it that the kitchen decided it was the special of the day. Lee said this is just another example of the role media — including social media — is playing in the popularity of food culture. “There are a lot of different things happening simultaneously in media,” he explained. “You have competition shows; you have the sort of Rachel Ray demonstration shows, and you have food documentaries. They all co-exist equally. I think that’s a testament to how big the foodie world is.” Lee is not done taking advantage of opportunities and seeking new challenges. His next restaurant will be in a resort on the Caribbean island of Antigua. Lee said he wanted to do it, because the restaurant is a chance to work outside his comfort zone. “In some ways, I’ve been cooking with the same ingredients for 16 years, so it’s interesting to cook with things like mango, pineapple and papaya. We don’t use these ingredients here, because they are not local. It’s been a really new fun type of thing playing with tropical ingredients,” he said. Even during this new international venture, Lee and his team from Whiskey Dry made news during the government shutdown in January by cooking lunches for some of the federal employees working at the airport without pay. The restaurant fed about 75 TSA officers with cheeseburgers, vegetarian burgers, fries, chicken sandwiches, wings and salads. Lee wrote in an Instagram post that he flies out of

Pork tortellini en Brodo (610 Magnolia).

the airport frequently and has gotten to know “some of these hard-working men and women who keep us safe.” The chef is also moving into the philanthropic arena with the LEE Initiative, a nonprofit dedicated to bringing greater gender equality and diversity to the restaurant industry. The initiative has two main programs: the Women’s Chef Initiative, a six-month leadership development program for female chefs, and The Smoke & Soul Initiative, a 40-week immersive restaurant mentorship program for young adults.

Lee said the LEE initiative and the help to federal workers are not isolated incidents; they are part of his latest evolution as a person and the next stage of his business. “Now there is a social aspect to what we do,” he said. “We are instilling that ethos into all of our employees. To work here means that you not only care about the food, but you care about the community and you care about people. That’s something we are proud of and trying to be in the forefront of as a company.” F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 43


dining guide

Guide Index_SPR19_Ed.qxp_Layout 1 2/28/19 9:32 AM Page 44

Cuisine Style

African..............................70 Asian/Chinese..................70 Asian/Japanese ...............72 Asian/Korean ...................73 Asian/Thai........................73

Asian/Vietnamese ............73 Bar & Grill/Taphouse........67 Barbecue .........................63 Bistro/New American .......50 Burgers/Chicken ..............55 Cafés ...............................57 Cafeterias/Buffet ..............67 Cajun/Creole....................74 Casual Dining ..................59 Coffee/Tea Houses ..........81 Cuban/Caribbean.............74

Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT 211 Clover Lane 21st Amendment Tavern 321 Deli 4 Seasons Restaurant 410 Bakery 502 Bar & Bistro 610 Magnolia 80/20 @ Kaelin's 888 Great Wall 8th Street Pizza 8UP Drinkery A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Abyssinia Á-Châu Restaurant Addis Grill Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne's Italian Africa House Against The Grain Al Watan Aladdin's Mediterranean Alley Cat Café American Smokehouse Stadium Amici Angie’s Home Cooking Angilo's Pizza Angio's Restaurant Annie Café Annie May's Sweets Café Annie's Pizza Anoosh Bistro Another Place Sandwich Shop Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee's Arata Sushi The Arctic Scoop Arni's Pizza Arno's Pizza Aroma Café Art Eatables Artesano Tapas Vino Y Mas Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Wok Aspen Creek Restaurant Aspire Café At the Italian Table Atlantic No. 5 Atrium Café August moon B.J.'s Restaurant & Brewhouse B3Q BBQ Babie Bac'z Good Grill Baby Mae's Back Yard Burger Bandido Taqueria Mexicana Bank Street Brewhouse Bar Vetti Baraka Restaurant Barrelhouse on Market Barry's Cheese Steaks Baxter's 942 Bean Bean Street Coffee Co. Bearno's Beef O'Brady's Bella Roma Bella's Diner Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Ben's BBQ Big Momma's Soul Kitchen Bistro 301 Bistro 42 Bistro Le Relais Blackbeard Espresso Blackstone Grille Blaze Fast Fire'd Pizza Blind Squirrel Blue Dog Bakery Blue Horse Café Bluegrass Brewing Company Bob's Steak & Chop House Bombay Grill Bonefish Grill Bonnie & Clyde's Pizza

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 48 54 64 76 80 50 48 55 70 61 48 59 70 70 73 70 80 74 70 70 76 76 57 63 74 66 61 61 73 80 61 50 64 70 59 72 80 61 61 57 80 76 72 70 71 59 57 74 57 57 71 67 63 63 63 55 77 70 75 70 67 64 67 81 81 61 67 75 66 67 63 66 51 75 74 81 49 61 59 57 57 70 54 76 53 61

MAP #

Fine Dining 3 Gastropub 13 Deli / Sandwich 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 11 Desserts / Bakery 14 Bistro / New American 8 Fine Dining 13 Burgers / Chicken 2 Asian / Chinese 8 Pizza 14 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian / Chinese 1 African 1 Asian / Vietnamese 13 African 1 Desserts / Bakery 14, 16 European / Italian 16 African 12 Microbreweries 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 14 Cafes 5 Barbecue 16 European / Italian 13 Diner / Home Style 9 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Desserts / Bakery 3 Pizza 9, 12 Bistro / New American 7 Deli / Sandwich 1 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining [5] Asian / Japanese 10 Desserts / Bakery 5 Pizza 14 Pizza 4 Cafes 14 Desserts / Bakery 1 European / Spanish 5 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Chinese 14 Asian / Chinese 2 Casual Dining 3, 11 Cafes 1 European / Italian 2 Cafes 1 Cafes 5 Asian / Chinese 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Barbecue 14 Barbecue 12 Barbecue 14 Burgers / Chicken 6 Mexican 13 Microbreweries 14 European / Italian 1 African 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1, 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Pizza [13] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5, 3, 14 European / Italian 14 Diner / Home Style 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Barbecue 16 Southern / Soul Food 9 Bistro / New American 1 European / Italian 10 European / French 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 3, 5, 8, 15 Casual Dining 5 Cafes 2 Cafes 13 Microbreweries 1 Steakhouse 1 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12

44 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Indian ...............................76 Latin American .................77 Mediterranean/Mid East...76 Mexican ...........................77 Microbreweries ................70 Pizza ................................61 Seafood ...........................53 Southern/Soul Food.........66 Southwest/Tex Mex..........79 Steakhouse......................54 Upscale Casual................48

Deli/Sandwich ..................64 Desserts/Bakery ..............80 Diner/Home Style.............66 Entertainment Dining .......70 European/French .............74 European/German ...........74 European/Irish .................74 European/Italian...............74 European/Spanish ...........76 Fine Dining.......................48 Gastropub ........................54

RESTAURANT Book & Bourbon Southern Kitchen Boombozz Pizza Boomer's Café Bootleg Barbecue Co. Borromeo's Pizza Borsalino Café & Deli Boudreaux's Cajun Cooking Boudreaux's Sno-Balls Boujie Biscuit Bourbon Raw Bourbon's Bistro Brasserie Provence Bravo! Brazeiros Churrascaria Breadworks Brendon's Catch 23 Brian's Deli Brickhouse Tavern & Tap Bridge and Barrel Bristol Bar & Grille Brix Wine Bar Brooke & Billy’s Brooklyn & The Butcher Brownie's 'The Shed' Bruegger's Bagels Bubba's 33 Buca Di Beppo Buckhead Mountain Grill Buck's Bud's Tavern & Barbecue Buffalo Wild Wings Bungalow Joe's Bar & Grill Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burger Girl Butcher's Best Butchertown Grocery Butchertown Pizza Hall The Butchertown Social Café 157 Café 223 Café 360 Café Aroma Café Magnolia Café Mimosa Café On Meigs Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico California Pizza kitchen Cancún Captain Ville Captain's Quarters Carali's Rotisserie Chicken Cardinal Hall Of Fame Café Caribbean Café Carrabba's Italian Grill Casa Fiesta Caspian Grill Persian Café Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Catfish Haven Restaurant Cattleman's Roadhouse Cellar Door Chocolates Chamling Kitchen & Bar Champions Grill Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charr'd Bourbon Kitchen Check's BBQ & Blues Check's Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar's Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Chef's Cut Pizzeria Chicago Steak & Lemonade The Chicken House Chicken King Chik'n & Mi Chilakiles Oaxacan Breakfast Chili's China 1 China Bistro China Buffet China Café China Castle China Chef China Coast

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 66 61 57 63 61 57 74 80 59 49 51 74 49 54 80 49 64 59 51 49 51 59 54 67 64 67 75 59 48 67 55 67 55 66 66 64 51 61 68 57 57 76 77 59 73 57 73 57 61 77 53 59 77 59 74 75 77 76 54 64 53 54 80 76 59 73 61 49 63 66 57 59 71 49 61 64 55 56 73 77 59 71 71 71 71 71 71 71

MAP #

Southern / Soul Food 13 Pizza 2,6,15 Cafes 1 Barbecue 11 Pizza 13 Cafes 4 Cajun / Creole 5 Desserts / Bakery 5 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 1 Bistro / New American 2 European / French 5 Upscale Casual 3 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 2, 5, 7 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Casual Dining 6 Bistro / New American 16 Upscale Casual 1,2,5 Bistro / New American 8 Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6, 14 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 European / Italian 6 Casual Dining 4, 16 Fine Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,6,8,11,12,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Burgers / Chicken 2 Diner / Home Style 13 Diner / Home Style 3 Deli / Sandwich 10 Bistro / New American 2 Pizza 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Cafes 14 Cafes 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Mexican 2 Casual Dining 1 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Cafes 16 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Cafes 2 Pizza 5 Mexican 5 Seafood 9 Casual Dining 10 Latin American 1, 6 Casual Dining 13 Cuban / Caribbean 2 European / Italian 5 Mexican 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1 Seafood 12 Steakhouse 6, 13 Desserts / Bakery 1, 2 Indian 4 Casual Dining 16 Asian / Korean 3 Pizza 16 Upscale Casual 6 Barbecue 5 Diner / Home Style 13 Cafes 3 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 Asian / Chinese 1 Upscale Casual 3 Pizza 5 Deli / Sandwich 9, 12, 13 Burgers / Chicken 14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Casual Dining 2, 4, 5, 8, 12, 13, 15 Asian / Chinese 3, 5 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 8, 13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11 Asian / Chinese 13

RESTAURANT China Dragon China Garden China Inn China King China Star China Taste Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Choi's Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Palace Chuy's Ciao Citizen 7 City Barbecue City Café Clarksville Seafood Clay Oven Clifton Donuts Clucker's Wings Coals Artisan Pizza Coconut Beach Tacos Coffee Crossing The Coffee Zone Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Common Table Con Huevos CoreLife Eatery Corner Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Couvillion Cox's Hot Chicken Crave Café & Catering Cravings A La Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Crescent Hill Craft House Cricket's Café Culver's Cumberland Brews Cunningham's Creekside Cup of Joy Cuvée Wine Table D. Nalley's Daddy Rich's Daisy Mae's Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat's Gateaux & Bakery Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac's Pasta & Pizza Dasha Barbours Bistro Dave & Buster's Dave & Peg's Copper Kettle Day's Espresso Decca Del Frisco's Derby Café Derby City Pizza Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Diamond Pub & Billiards Difabio's Casapela Dino's Dino's Bakery DiOrio's Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto's Grill Divine Treats Dixie Chicken Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow's Donum Dei Brewery Double Dogs Double Dragon Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon II Down One Bourbon Bar Downtowner Deli Dragon Café Dragon King's Daughter Drake's Dundee Tavern East Star Buffet Eat A Pita Eatz Vietnamese Restaurant Eddie Merlot's Egg Roll Machine Eggs Over Frankfort Ehrler's Ice Cream Eiderdown El Barrio Tequila and Whiskey Bar El Caporal El Mariachi El Molcajete El Mundo El Nopal El Rinconcito El Rio Grande El Sabor de Cuba El Sinaloa Mexican Restaurant El Sombrero El Taco Loco El Taco Luchador El Tarasco El Torazo El Toro Cantina & Grill El Vaquero The English Grill Equus Exchange Pub + Kitchen Executive Bistro The Falafel House Family Ties Famous Dave's Fante's Coffee Farm to Fork Café Fat Jimmy's FDKY BBQ FeastBBQ Fiesta Mexicana Fiesta Time Amigos Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Firehouse Subs

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 71 71 71 71 71 71 71 77 72 71 71 71 71 79 75 77 63 58 53 76 80 56 61 77 81 81 75 80 60 77 60 54 58 66 66 74 56 58 67 58 54 58 56 70 53 58 51 66 56 66 76 80 64 61 66 70 66 81 49 54 58 61 70 80 68 75 56 80 61 51 51 80 56 56 49 70 60 71 71 71 55 64 71 72 68 68 71 76 73 54 71 51 80 74 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 74 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 48 49 55 66 76 56 63 81 58 61 63 63 78 78 78 64

MAP #

Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 4, 6 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 16 Asian / Chinese 12 Mexican 1, 2, 5, 8 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 9, 13 Asian / Chinese 1 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,15 European / Italian 2 Mexican 8 Barbecue 5 Cafes 1, 13 Seafood 15 Indian 5 Desserts / Bakery 2 Burgers / Chicken 14, 16 Pizza 3, 5, 13 Mexican 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 European / Italian 1 Desserts / Bakery 2,5,13,15 Casual Dining 9 Mexican 2, 8 Casual Dining 15 Gastropub 1 Cafes 5 Diner / Home Style 5 Diner / Home Style 13 Cajun / Creole 13 Burgers / Chicken 14, 16 Cafes 2 Cafeterias / Buffet 1 Cafes 14 Gastropub 2 Cafes 15 Burgers / Chicken 6, 15 Microbreweries 2 Seafood 10 Cafes 9 Bistro / New American 8 Diner / Home Style 1 Burgers / Chicken 1 Southern / Soul Food 14 Indian 11 Desserts / Bakery 13 Deli / Sandwich 3 Pizza 2 Southern / Soul Food 2 Entertainment Dining 3 Diner / Home Style 5 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Upscale Casual 1 Steakhouse 3 Cafes 13 Pizza 12, 13 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2, 3 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 4 Desserts / Bakery 9 Pizza 2, 3 Bistro / New American 1 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 15 Burgers / Chicken 9, 12, 13 Burgers / Chicken 1 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 11 Casual Dining 5 Asian / Chinese 9, 2 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 8,11,12,13 Gastropub 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Asian / Chinese 10 Asian / Japanese 2, 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3, 8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Steakhouse 1 Asian / Chinese 2 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 European / German 13 Mexican 1 Mexican 4, 6 Mexican 5 Mexican 13 Mexican 2 Mexican [21] Latin American 11 Mexican 5 Cuban / Caribbean 13 Mexican 14 Mexican 16 Mexican 13 Mexican 1, 2, 3, 6 Mexican 3, 5, 13 Mexican 6 Mexican 5 Mexican 11 Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 3 Gastropub 14 Diner / Home Style 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Burgers / Chicken 9 Barbecue 6 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 9 Pizza 5 Barbecue 6 Barbecue 1, 6 Mexican 4 Mexican 5, 11 Mexican 8 Deli / Sandwich 5, 11


Guide Index_SPR19_Ed.qxp_Layout 1 2/28/19 9:32 AM Page 45

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Firenza 61 First Watch 60 First Wok 71 The Fish House 53 Fishery Station 53 The Fishery 53 Five Guys Burgers 56 Flanagan's Ale House 68 Flat 12 Bierwerks 70 Flavour 74 Flo’s House of Soul 66 Flora Kitchenette 80 Floridita 74 Floyd County Brewing Co. 70 Fond 50 Fork & Barrel 50 Fort Knockers Mess Hall 68 Forty Acres & A Mule Restaurant 66 Four Kings Café 66 Four Pegs Beer Lounge 55 Franco's Restaurant 66 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 63 Frank's Meat & Produce 64 Fredrick's 60 Frontier Diner 66 Fuji Asian Bistro 72 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 72 Full Stop Filling Station 58 Funmi's African Restaurant 70 Galan's Meat Market & Deli 64 Galan's Meat Market & Grille 74 Galaxie 55 Game 60 Gander, An American Grill 60 Garage Bar 51 Gasthaus 74 Gatsby's On Fourth 60 Gelato Gilberto 80 Geraldine's Kitchen 66 Gerstle's Place 68 Gigi's Cupcakes 80 Ginza Asian Bistro 72 Golden Buddha 71 Golden Corral 67 Golden Star Chinese 71 The Golden Wall 71 Goose Creek Diner 66 Gordon Biersch Brewery 70 Gracious Plenty 58 The Grain Haus 61 Gralehaus 55 Granville Inn 68 Grape Leaf 76 Grassa Gramma 75 Gravely Brewing Co. 70 Great American Grill 68 Great Wall 71 Great Wok 71 Green District Salads 60 Green Leaf Natural Vegetarian Bistro60 Griff's 68 Grind Burger Kitchen 56 Growler USA 68 Guaca Mole 78 Gustavo's Mexican Grill 78 Guy Fieri's Smokehouse 63 Gypsy's Sports Grille 68 H. M. Frank's 55 Habana Blues Tapas 74 Half Peach Café 80 The Hall on Washington 55 Hammerheads 51 Happy China 71 Happy Dragon 71 Hard Rock Café 52 Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q 63 Harrods Creek Tavern 60 Harvest 50 Havana Bakery Café 74 Havana Rumba 74 Havana Rumba & Tapas 74 Haymarket Bistro 58 Heart & Soy 72 Heine Brothers' Coffee 81 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 80 Hell or High Water 68 Hibachi Buffet 71 Hibachi Sushi Buffet 71 Hi-Five Doughnuts 80 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Highland Morning 58 Highlands Taproom Grill 68 Highview Ice Cream & Coffee 81 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 72 Hill Street Fish Fry 53 Hilltop Tavern 68 Himalayan Restaurant 76 Hitching Post Inn 68 Holy Grale 52 Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que 63 Home Run Burgers 56 Homemade Pie Kitchen 80 Hometown Pizza 61 Honey Crème Donut Shop 80 Honeybaked Café 64 Hong Kong Fast Food 71 Hooked on Frankfort 53 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 68 Hooters 56 HopCat 68 Hosanna's Kitchen 66 Hot Box Eatery 58 Howl at the Moon 70 Hull & Highwater 53 IHOP 60 Ikebana 72 Imanka Restaurant 70 Indi's Restaurant 56 Inwave Restaurant & Juice Bar 60 The Irish Rover 74 Iroquois Pizza 61 Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet 78 J. Alexander's 50 J. Graham's Café 58 J. Gumbo's 74 J. Harrod's 50 Jack Binion's 48

MAP #

Pizza 5 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 15 Asian / Chinese 12 Seafood 2, 5 Seafood 3 Seafood 11 Burgers / Chicken 3, 5, 8, 11, 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Microbreweries 16 Cajun / Creole 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 2 Cuban / Caribbean 6 Microbreweries 14 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Southern / Soul Food 13 Diner / Home Style 4 Gastropub 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Barbecue 3 Deli / Sandwich 13 Casual Dining 9 Diner / Home Style 12 Asian / Japanese 12 Asian / Japanese 8 Cafes 1 African 4 Deli / Sandwich 9 Cuban / Caribbean 9 Gastropub 1 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 5 Bistro / New American 1 European / German 7 Casual Dining 1 Desserts / Bakery 8 Diner / Home Style 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Desserts / Bakery 6, 8 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Chinese 13 Cafeterias / Buffet [4] Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 13 Diner / Home Style 8 Microbreweries 1 Cafes 2, 10 Pizza 14 Gastropub 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 European / Italian 7 Microbreweries 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Chinese 13 Casual Dining 1, 3 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Mexican 5 Mexican 8, 10 Barbecue 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Gastropub 16 Cuban / Caribbean 14 Desserts / Bakery 3 Gastropub 1 Bistro / New American 1 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Bistro / New American 1 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 10 Upscale Casual 1 Cuban / Caribbean 11 Cuban / Caribbean 3,5 Cuban / Caribbean 2 Cafes 1 Asian / Japanese 2 Coffee / Tea Houses [16] Desserts / Bakery 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11, 13 Desserts / Bakery 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 2, 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 11 Asian / Japanese 1, 5 Seafood 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Indian 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Bistro / New American 2 Barbecue 13 Burgers / Chicken 5, 6, 13 Desserts / Bakery [8] Pizza 7 Desserts / Bakery 14 Deli / Sandwich 3, 11, 14 Asian / Chinese 13 Seafood 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Burgers / Chicken 3,13,12,15,16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Diner / Home Style 9 Cafes 1 Entertainment Dining 1 Seafood 14 Casual Dining 6, 15 Asian / Japanese 2 African 1 Burgers / Chicken [8] Casual Dining 5 European / Irish 2 Pizza 13 Mexican 14 Upscale Casual 3 Cafes 1 Cajun / Creole 2, 6,16 Upscale Casual 10 Fine Dining 14

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 45


Guide Index_SPR19_Ed.qxp_Layout 1 2/28/19 9:32 AM Page 46

RESTAURANT Jack Fry's Jack's Lounge Jade Palace Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason's Deli JB's Pub Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse Jeff's Bakery Jeff's Burger Shack Jersey Café Jersey Mike's Subs Jerusalem Kitchen Jets Pizza Jimbo's BBQ Jimmy John's Sub Shop Joe Huber Restaurant Joella's Hot Chicken Joe's Crab Shack Joe's Older than Dirt John O'Bryan's Tavern Johnny Brusco's Pizza The Joy Luck J-Town Beach Jucy's Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet JW Café & Bakery Kai Lana Sushi Kansai Japanese Steakhouse Karem's Kashmir Indian Kathmandu Kitchen and Bar Kayrouz Café Kentucky Taco Company Kern's Korner Kevin's Picnic Khalil's Kim & Bab King Donuts KingFish King's Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Kolkin Coffee Koreana II L & J Asian Cuisine La Bamba La Catrina Mexican Kitchen La Chapinlandia La Chasse La Guanaquita La Hacienda Guadalajara La Lupita La Peche La Popular La Que La Riviera Maya La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra La Torta Loca La Tropicana Lady Tron's Las Americas Mexican Restaurant Las Gorditas L'bads Ice Cream Parlor Le Moo Le Petit Café Lee's Korean Lemongrass Restaurant Lenny's Sub Shop Levee at River House Liège & Dairy Ice Cream + Waffles Lil' Wagners Lilly's Ling Ling Little Caesar's Pizza Little Greek Fresh Grill Liu's Garden Logan's Roadhouse Longboard's Taco & Tiki Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie's Best Taste Of Chicago Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Lou Lou Food + Drink Louie's Hot Chicken & Barbecue Louisville Cream Louisville Pizza Co. Louisville Tea Co. Louvino Lucretia's Kitchen Lueberry Acai & Superfoods Luigi's Lulu's Frozen Yogurt Luna's Rotisserie Lupo M+A+F Gallery & Café Ma Zerella's Maa Sha Allah Mack Bros BBQ Mac's Dough House Main Eatery Main Event Bar & Grill Maira Mediterranean Grill Mai's Thai Restaurant Mama's Kitchen Carryout Mango's Bar & Grill Manhattan Grill The Manhattan Project Marco's Pizza Mark T's Slabhouse Marketplace Restaurant Mark's Feed Store Martini Itialian Bistro Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint Masa Japanese Masala Grill Mayan Café McAlister's Deli McQuixote Books & Coffee Mellow Mushroom Melrose Café The Melting Pot Mercato Italiano Merle's Whiskey Kitchen Mesa Mesh

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 48 52 71 80 71 64 68 54 80 56 68 64 76 61 63 64 70 56 53 60 68 62 71 68 64 71 58 72 72 60 76 76 58 78 68 58 68 73 80 53 56 72 81 73 71 78 78 78 48 77 78 78 58 78 73 78 78 78 78 78 64 78 78 80 54 58 73 73 65 52 80 66 48 71 62 77 71 54 78 54 65 78 65 52 64 80 62 81 52 66 80 62 80 78 62 81 62 70 64 62 65 70 77 73 66 78 65 55 62 64 50 64 75 64 72 77 78 65 81 62 58 50 75 52 70 50

MAP #

Fine Dining 2 Bistro / New American 3 Asian / Chinese 5 Desserts / Bakery 4 Asian / Chinese 5 Deli / Sandwich 3, 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 16 Burgers / Chicken 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 Deli / Sandwich 5, 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Pizza 2, 3, 5, 8, 11 Barbecue 13 Deli / Sandwich [11] Entertainment Dining 14 Burgers / Chicken 3,5 Seafood 1 Casual Dining 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Pizza 8 Asian / Chinese 2, 8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6 Barbecue 5 Asian / Chinese 6 Cafes 5 Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 6, 15 Casual Dining 8 Indian 2 Indian 4 Cafes 3 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Cafes 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Asian / Korean 14 Desserts / Bakery 5 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Burgers / Chicken 9 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Chinese 10 Mexican 2 Mexican 14 Mexican 13 Fine Dining 2 Latin American 13 Mexican 13 Mexican 15 Cafes 2 Mexican 13 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 5, 13 Mexican 11 Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Mexican 4 Mexican 11 Desserts / Bakery 9 Steakhouse 2 Cafes 2 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Vietnamese 4, 5 Deli / Sandwich 4 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 7 Diner / Home Style 13 Fine Dining 2 Asian / Chinese 5 Pizza [15] Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Chinese 5 Steakhouse 6, 12, 15 Mexican 14 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 Deli / Sandwich 2 Mexican 5, 10 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bistro / New American 3 Barbecue 13 Desserts / Bakery 1 Pizza 6 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Bistro / New American 2, 5 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 1 Pizza 1 Desserts / Bakery 2 Mexican 13 Pizza 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Pizza 15 African 4 Barbecue 9 Pizza 6 Deli / Sandwich 1 Entertainment Dining 6 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Thai 16 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mexican 3, 6, 13 Deli / Sandwich 1 Gastropub 2 Pizza 14 Barbecue 13 Upscale Casual 1 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 European / Italian 8 Barbecue 2, 8 Asian / Japanese 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Mexican 1 Deli / Sandwich [9] Coffee / Tea Houses 9 Pizza 3 Cafes 10 Upscale Casual 6 European / Italian 8 Bistro / New American 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Upscale Casual 3

46 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANT Metro Diner Mexa Tacos Mexico City Tacqueria Mi Casita Parrilla Mexicana Mi Sueño Mi Tierra Mexican Restaurant Migo Mike Linnig's Mike's Tavern Milantoni Italian Restaurant MilkWood Mimi's Café Mimo's Pizzeria Mirage Mediterranean Restaurant Mirin Misawa Hibachi & Sushi Miss Ada’s Mission BBQ Mitchell's Fish Market MOD Pizza Moe's Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone's Momma's Mustard Pickles, Pickles Momma's Pizza Monnik Beer Co. More Shenanigan's Morels Café Morris Deli & Catering Morton's Of Chicago Mozza Pi Mr. Gatti's Mrs. Potter's Coffee Mt. Fuji Mussel & Burger Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Naila's Caribbean Cuisine Naïve NamNam Café Nancy's Bagel Box Napa River Grill Neighborhood Services Neil & Patty's Fireside Grill New Albanian Brewing Co. New Albany Roadhouse New China New Direction Bar & Grill New Wave Burritos Ngon Appétit Nirvana No Baked Cookie Dough Noodles & Company Noosh Nosh Nord's Bakery North End Café North Lime Donuts Nouvelle Bar & Bottle O' Charley's O' Connell's Irish Pub O' Dolly's O' Shea's Irish Pub The Oakroom Oishii Sushi Old Chicago Old Hickory Inn Old Louisville Chili Bowl Old Louisville Tavern Old School NY Pizza Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Olé Frijole Ole Hickory Pit BBQ O-Line Sports Grill Olive Garden Olive Leaf Bistro Ollie's Trolley Onion Restaurant & Tea House Orange Clover Kitchen Oriental Café Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri's Osaka Sushi Bar Oskar's Slider Bar Ostra Outback Steakhouse P.F. Chang's China Bistro Panchitos Ice Cream Panda China Panda Express Panera Bread Co. Papa Murphy's Pizza Parlour Pasha's Mediterranean Passtime Fish House Patrick O'Shea's Pat's Steak House Paul's Fruit Market Payne Street Bakehouse Pearl Street Taphouse Pearl Street Treats Peking City Express Penn Station Peppers Bar and Grill Perfetto Pizza Pesto's Italian Pho Ba Luu Pho Café Pieologoy Pin + Proof Piña Fiesta Mexican Grill Pints&Union Pita Pit Pizza Bar Pizza Donisi Pizza King Pizza Place Please & Thank You Plehn's Bakery PokeHana Ponderosa Steakhouse Porch Kitchen & Bar Porcini Porkland BBQ Portage House Potbelly Sandwhich Shop Primo's Delicatessen

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 66 78 78 78 74 79 79 53 68 75 48 60 62 77 60 72 67 64 54 62 79 76 74 64 62 70 74 58 65 54 62 62 81 72 56 80 70 74 60 73 65 50 52 68 62 60 71 68 79 73 68 80 60 52 80 58 80 52 60 74 66 74 48 72 62 68 60 68 62 75 50 79 64 68 75 52 56 71 58 71 71 71 62 72 56 52 54 52 81 71 71 65 62 62 77 54 74 54 65 65 68 81 71 65 68 62 75 73 73 62 70 79 68 77 62 62 62 62 81 81 72 54 68 75 64 60 65 65

MAP #

Diner / Home Style 11 Mexican 3 Mexican 16 Mexican 1, 6 Cuban / Caribbean 4, 13 Mexican 1 Mexican 2 Seafood 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 European / Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 5 Pizza 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Casual Dining 2, 14 Asian / Japanese 11 Southern / Soul Food 1 Barbecue 3, 15 Seafood 8 Pizza 4 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,6,8,11 European / Spanish 7 European / Irish 2, 3 Barbecue 3, 5 Pizza 15 Microbreweries 13 European / Irish 4 Cafes 2 Deli / Sandwich 1, 2 Steakhouse 1 Pizza 5 Pizza 12, 13, 15 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Asian / Japanese 13 Burgers / Chicken 1, 6 Desserts / Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 13 Cuban / Caribbean 15 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Deli / Sandwich 1 Upscale Casual 5 Bistro / New American 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Pizza 14 Casual Dining 14 Asian / Chinese 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Mexican 13 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Desserts / Bakery 6 Casual Dining 6, 8, 13 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 13 Cafes 2 Desserts / Bakery 13 Bistro / New American 1 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 European / Irish 11 Diner / Home Style 13 European / Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 Asian / Japanese 4 Pizza 6, 8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 5 European / Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Mexican 11 Barbecue 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 European / Italian 6,8,11,15 Bistro / New American 16 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Chinese 14 Cafes 16 Asian / Chinese 4 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Pizza 1, 2, 5, 10 Asian / Japanese 1, 2 Burgers / Chicken 13 Bistro / New American 2 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 Bistro / New American 5 Desserts / Bakery 2, 13 Asian / Chinese 10 Asian / Chinese 5, 6, 8, 15 Deli / Sandwich [10] Pizza [10] Pizza 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Seafood 6 European / Irish 1 Steakhouse 2 Deli / Sandwich 3, 4, 5, 7 Deli / Sandwich 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Desserts / Bakery 16 Asian / Chinese 3 Deli / Sandwich [17] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Pizza 6 European / Italian 1 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Pizza 6 Entertainment Dining 1 Mexican 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 1 Pizza 13 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 2 Desserts / Bakery 3 Asian / Japanese 1 Steakhouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 2 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 16 Deli / Sandwich 1, 6, 8 Deli / Sandwich 14

RESTAURANT Proof On Main Prospect Café Puerto Vallarta Purrfect Day Cat Café Qdoba Mexican Grill Queen of Sheba Queue Café Quick Wok Quill's Coffee Quizno's Subs Rafferty's of Louisville Railbirds Hot Chicken Raising Cane's Ramen Inochi Ramiro's Cantina Ramiro's Cantina Express Ramsi's Café Rawnaissance Desserts Recbar Red Hog Red Hot Roasters Red Robin Red Sun Chinese Restaurant Red Top Gourmet Hot Dogs Red Yeti Brewing Co. Rice Bowl Rice Box River City Drafthouse River City Winery River House Restaurant River Road BBQ Riverside Café Rivue Roadrunner Kitchen ROC Restaurant Romano's Macaroni Grill Roof Top Grill Roosters Rootie's Sports Bar Roots Royal's Hot Chicken Rubbie's Southside Grill Rubbin' Butts BBQ Ruby Tuesday Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Ruth's Chris Steakhouse Rye S Bar Sabor Latino Safai Coffee Saffron's Safier Mediterranean Deli Saint's Sake Blue Sakura Blue Sala Thai Sal's Pizza & Wings Salsarita's Fresh Cantina Sam's Food & Spirits Sam's Gyro Samurai Sandi's Kitchen Sante Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Sarang Sarino Savannah Restaurant Scarlet's Bakery Scene Schlotzky's Deli Seafood Lady Seeds & Greens Deli Selena's At Willow Lake Tavern Señor Iguana's Sergio's World Beers Seviche A Latin Restaurant Shack In The Back BBQ Shady Lane Café Shalimar Indian Shark's Seafood Shenanigan's Irish Grille Shine's Diner Shiraz Mediterranean Grill Shirley Mae's Café Shogun Shoney's Shreeji Indian Vegetarian Sichuan Garden Sicilian Pizza & Pasta Sidebar The Silver Dollar Silvio's Italian Restaurant Simply Thai Sir Dano's Pizza Parlor Sister Bean's Skyline Chili Smashburger Smoke & Rye Smokey Bones BBQ Snappy Tomato SnoWhat Sol Aztecas Somewhere Louisville Soul Food Fining Soupy's Southern Express Southern Hospitality Spaghetti Shop Spinelli's Pizzeria The Sporting News Grill The Sports & Social Club Spring St. Bar & Grill Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starlight Café Starlight Coffee Co. Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak N Shake Steel City Pops Steve O's Italian Kitchen Stevens & Stevens Deli Stoney River Storming Crab Stout Burgers & Beer Stricker's Café Sub Station II Sue's Touch of Country

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 50 58 79 58 79 70 58 71 81 65 60 56 56 72 79 79 58 81 68 58 81 56 71 56 70 73 71 69 52 50 64 58 48 65 76 76 74 56 69 72 56 64 64 60 54 54 50 60 77 81 77 77 69 72 72 73 62 79 60 77 72 66 79 72 73 76 56 81 67 65 74 65 74 79 69 48 64 58 76 54 74 67 77 67 72 60 76 71 62 52 52 76 73 62 81 60 56 52 64 62 81 79 52 67 65 67 67 76 62 69 69 69 73 81 58 81 58 81 57 81 76 65 54 74 57 58 65 67

MAP #

Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 10 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Cafes 2 Mexican [17] African 4 Cafes 1 Asian / Chinese 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 2, 3, 13, 14 Deli / Sandwich 1, 5,14,15 Casual Dining 3 Burgers / Chicken 13 Burgers / Chicken 2, 5, 6, 8, 11, 12 Asian / Japanese 2 Mexican 2 Mexican 16 Cafes 2 Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Cafes 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Burgers / Chicken 3, 8, 15 Asian / Chinese 4 Burgers / Chicken 13 Microbreweries 16 Asian / Korean 14 Asian / Chinese 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Bistro / New American 4 Upscale Casual 7 Barbecue 7 Cafes 16 Fine Dining 1 Deli / Sandwich 14 European / Italian 2 European / Italian 5 Cuban / Caribbean 1, 9 Burgers / Chicken [6] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 Asian / Japanese 2 Burgers / Chicken 1 Barbecue 13 Barbecue 14 Casual Dining 6 Seafood 5 Steakhouse 3 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 12 Latin American 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Thai 11 Pizza 5 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,5 Casual Dining 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Asian / Japanese 5 Diner / Home Style 12 Mexican 13 Asian / Japanese 2 Asian / Korean 2 European / Italian 13 Burgers / Chicken 13 Desserts / Bakery 13 Southern / Soul Food 1 Deli / Sandwich 8 Cajun / Creole 1, 13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Cajun / Creole 5 Mexican [5] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 13 Cafes 7 Indian 6 Seafood 4 European / Irish 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern [6] Southern / Soul Food 1 Asian / Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 13 Indian 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Pizza 1, 11 Bistro / New American 1 Bistro / New American 2 European / Italian 3 Asian / Thai 3, 5 Pizza 15 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6 Burgers / Chicken 1, 5, 13 Bistro / New American 14 Barbecue 6 Pizza 8 Desserts / Bakery 13 Mexican 2, 11 Bistro / New American 2 Southern / Soul Food 13 Deli / Sandwich 4 Southern / Soul Food 13 Southern / Soul Food 9 European / Italian 14 Pizza 1, 2, 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses [36] Cafes 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Cafes 5 Desserts / Bakery 8 Burgers / Chicken [6] Desserts / Bakery 2, 3 European / Italian 2 Deli / Sandwich 2 Steakhouse 8 Cajun / Creole 15 Burgers / Chicken 2 Cafes 16 Deli / Sandwich 13 Southern / Soul Food 12


Guide Index_SPR19_Ed.qxp_Layout 1 2/28/19 9:32 AM Page 47

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sullivan’s Tap House Sunergos Coffee SuperChefs Sushi Master Sway Sweet Frog Sweet Peaches Sweet Peaches 2 Roll Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets By Morgan Taco Choza Taco City Taco Steve Taco Tico Taj Palace Tandoori Fusion TanThai Restaurant Taqueria La Mexicana Tavern On Fourth Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Texas Roadhouse TGI Friday's Thai Café Thai Noodles The Back Door The Bakery The Bard's Town The Bistro The Block Gourmet Deli The Café The Champagnery The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The ChillBurger The Corner The Cozy Kitchen The Eagle The Earl The Fat Lamb The Fudgery The Goat The Hub Louisville The Library The Lighthouse The Pearl The Pine Room The Planet Bar The Post The Spot The Sword & the Scone The Table The Water Company The Wright House Bar B Q + Eatery Thelma's Deli Tikka House Tim Tam Tavern Time 4 Thai Tin Roof Toast on Market ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tomo Japanese Restaurant Tony Impellizzeri's Toonerville Tavern Top Round Roast Beef Topp't Pizza & Chopped Salad Town Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tsubaki Sushi & Bar Tucker's Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Twig & Leaf Uptown Café Urban Bread Co. Varanese Verbena Café V-Grits Vic's Café Victoria Mexican Restaurant Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Ville Chicken and Seafood Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen Vincenzo's Vint Coffee Vis a Vis Bar & Grill Volare W.W. Cousin's Wagner's Pharmacy Ward 426 Waterfront Wine & Spirits Way Cool Café Waylon's Feed & Firewater Webb's Market Wei Wei Chinese Express Which Wich? Whiskey Dry Wick's Pizza Wild Dog Rose Tea Boutique Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion Wild Rita's Williams Bakery Wiltshire at the Speed Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery and Café The Wing Zone Wingstop World of Beer Yafa Café Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching Yoki Buffet You-Carryout-A Yummy China Yummy Pollo Zanzabar Za's Pizza Zaxby's Zeggz Amazing Eggs Zoe's Kitchen Zoup! Z's Oyster & Steak Bar

81 69 81 60 73 50 81 65 65 81 81 81 79 79 79 79 76 76 73 79 69 77 72 54 60 73 73 69 81 70 67 65 58 52 58 59 57 62 66 57 69 52 81 69 52 69 69 69 52 69 62 60 81 59 69 64 66 76 69 73 69 60 73 73 73 62 62 66 62 76 69 73 60 80 76 61 50 52 50 59 67 59 79 73 52 54 66 48 81 69 76 57 66 48 53 59 67 66 72 66 57 62 81 59 73 79 81 53 50 59 57 57 55 77 72 79 72 72 72 72 77 69 62 57 59 77 66 48

MAP #

Desserts / Bakery 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 13 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Japanese 8 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts / Bakery 15 Deli / Sandwich 9 Deli / Sandwich 9 Desserts / Bakery 14 Desserts / Bakery 2 Desserts / Bakery 16 Mexican 3 Mexican 2 Mexican 14 Mexican 12 Indian 8 Indian 8 Asian / Thai 14 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3, 5 Asian / Chinese 8 Steakhouse 2, 5, 12, 13, 15 Casual Dining 1 Asian / Thai 7 Asian / Thai 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Desserts / Bakery 4 Entertainment Dining 2 Cafeterias / Buffet 3 Deli / Sandwich 5 Cafes 1 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 3 Cafes 3 Burgers / Chicken 15 Pizza 8 Diner / Home Style 2 Burgers / Chicken 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Bistro / New American 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bistro / New American 10 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Pizza 13 Casual Dining 6 Coffee / Tea Houses 6 Cafes 9 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Barbecue 14 Deli / Sandwich 1 Indian 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Asian / Thai 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Casual Dining 1, 14 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Japanese 7 Asian / Japanese 14 Pizza 14 Pizza 1 Deli / Sandwich 3 Pizza 13, 14 European / Italian 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Japanese 5 Casual Dining 14 Southwest / Tex Mex [8] European / Italian 13 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 7 Bistro / New American 14, 16 Upscale Casual 2 Cafes 8 Southern / Soul Food 2 Cafes 14 Mexican 4 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Bistro / New American 5 Seafood 13 Deli / Sandwich 5 Fine Dining 1, 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 3 Diner / Home Style 13 Fine Dining 2 Bistro / New American 1 Cafes 1 Southern / Soul Food 3 Diner / Home Style 1 Asian / Chinese 1 Deli / Sandwich 8 Burgers / Chicken 1 Pizza 2, 4, 6, 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 1, 3, 5, 15 Asian / Japanese 2 Mexican 1 Desserts / Bakery 15 Bistro / New American 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 2 Burgers / Chicken 4, 13 Burgers / Chicken 6, 12 Gastropub 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Asian / Chinese 5 Mexican 14 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 11 Latin American 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 2 Burgers / Chicken 5, 12, 13, 14, 16 Cafes 5, 7 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3,8 Deli / Sandwich 1 Fine Dining 5

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 47


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:35 AM Page 48

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

p = Full Bar

OPEN TILL/PAST 11 PM

f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812 or 930.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 8969570. 211 Clover Lane has been tucked away across the railroad tracks in St. Matthews, in the corner of a little cluster of upscale shops for two decades or so. Those who know how to find it enjoy drinks in a quietly elegant lounge, and dine off seasonal menus from Chef Allen Heintzman, who, along with owner Andrew Smith, keeps 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables. $$$$ Br L D pf

610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Since taking over this Old Louisville landmark restaurant over a decade ago, Edward Lee has become a Food TV fixture, and opened new restaurants. Kevin Ashworth, newly promoted to Executive Chef at this perennial top table, continues the adventurous prix-fixe menu. The Wednesday a la carte nights allow sampling the menu at a more modest price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant and understated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments is overseen by Chef W. Colter Hubsch, who has kept long-standing favorites like the crispy fish and spicy Cantonese noodles but has extended his menu into new areas with the fried oysters Rockefeller, pad Thai salad, Bourbon chicken saltimbocca, and country-fried quail. Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano during dinner. $$$ L D hpfe ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. Executive Chef James Adams oversees the formal dining room in one of downtown’s historic hotels. The Hot Brown is still on the menu, but new dishes tempt visitors and old timers: roasted cauliflower with quinoa and mushrooms, crispy skin duck and a vegetarian harvest plate built around pesto risotto. The chef’s table in the kitchen is still a great place for a special party. $$$ D p JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. When you hit it big at the Horseshoe Casino, Binion’s has everything a high roller craves. Start with oysters Rockefeller or shrimp cocktail, French onion soup or crab bisque. Then, choose Chilean sea bass, lobster tail, rack of lamb or a choice of prime steak, including Wagyu tenderloin. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight but the food is

consistently excellent. Chef Steve Gustafson has continued classic menu items that regulars love (crab cakes, shrimp and grits, lamb shank with polenta) and worked in newer items (caramelized squash pasta, charred lemon chicken). $$$$ L D hpe LA CHASSE 1359 Bardstown Rd., 822-3963. Chef Kristina Dyer joins front-of-the-house man Isaac Fox in creating the ambience of a fine European country inn in the heart of the Highlands. The frequently-changing menu always includes some game dishes (rabbit, wild boar), harderto-find items like sweetbreads and octopus, and unusual salads. $$$$ D hp LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, Lilly’s continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Owner Edward Lee has made the downstairs space at Actors Theatre a dining destination. The menu, now under the control of Glenn Dougan, blends Asian and Southern influences (smoked chicken wings, gochujang fried chicken, braised black BBQ pork shoulder, ramen noodles) and has received national attention. $$$ D p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 5853200. A Louisville landmark since 1907, has entertained guests like F. Scott Fitzgerald and Al Capone. To keep this historic room a top table, The Oakroom has closed for extensive remodeling, although it will remain open for private and corporate events for up to 150 guests and will host its "legendary Holiday Brunches" for Easter, Derby, Mother’s Day, Thanksgiving and Christmas. $$$$ Br D pe RIVUE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239. The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. Chef Kendall Linhart’s upscale menu adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to the namesake the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WARD 426 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. In this elegant, warm fine dining space, Chef Shawn Ward’s lunch and dinner menus feature regional American fare with a Southern twist. Among the dishes winning raves: lobster and crab cakes, bbq pork confts and vegetarian or vegan stuffed grape leaves. $$$$ L D hpf Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This long-standing suburban upscale steak and oyster concept offers splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience. $$$$ L D hp

8UP ELEVATED DRINKERY AND KITCHEN 350 W. Chestnut St. (Hilton Garden Inn), 631-4180. This rooftop restaurant and bar above the hotel at the corner of Fourth and Chestnut has three elegant areas - an

48 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:35 AM Page 49

upscale casual dining room, the bar with a separate kitchen and menu, and an expansive outdoor patio that overlooks downtown. The bar kitchen’s two wood-fired ovens offer small plates to nibble while sipping; the main kitchen serves fine dinners. $$$ B D hpf BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell’s comfortable, casual restaurant in the Prospect Center continues to please regulars and to find new fans. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf BOURBON RAW 446 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-9009. This bar and restaurant in Fourth Street Live! features a raw seafood bar, an eclectic Southern menu, special Bourbon dinners and more than 85 Bourbons. The classy interior includes a 57-foot marble bar top, and an outdoor patio area. $$$ Br L D hp BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRENDON’S CATCH 23 505 S. Fourth St. (Embassy Suites), 909-3323. This restaurant inside Embassy Suites shares a name with restaurants in Florida, but the Louisville location is an independent operation with its own menu focus, which includes a variety of options ranging from seafood to steak to Low Country cuisine. $$$ D hp BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now, with three venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the greenchile won tons and the Bristol Burger. $$ Br L D hpf CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail with a bar boasting over 75 offerings of Bourbon. Chef Raquel Romero’s eclectic menu offers Holy Ravioli (with local mushrooms and cheese), Charr’d wings, Johnny cake quesadillas, a Bootlegger burger bar, ribs, salmon and pasta. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the California-based chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind of restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D hpf DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Decca’s handsomely re-done 19th-century building, its serene garden, its classy basement bar and breezy second-floor eating balcony are all fun. But Chef Anne Pettry’s inventive, locally sourced menu combined with the restaurant’s wine program make it a classy place to dine. $$$$ D

hpfe

DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic castiron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. A Louisville institution for more than 30 years under the ownership of the late

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 49


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:35 AM Page 50

culinary icon Dean Corbett, Equus is now under the stewardship of Jared Matthews, who has made some updates to the rooms and patio but has striven to keep the restaurant’s classic upscale casual atmosphere and approachable menu. Some new steak and pasta choices from Chef Jon Pauly and daily drink or food specials have been added. $$$ D p FOND 2520 Frankfort Ave., 727-3631. Chef Madeleine Dee only serves dinners for 12 on weekends at her quiet, calmly elegant dining room in Crescent Hill. She concocts monthly prix-fixe, multi-course menus with eclectic rotating international themes based on seasonal ingredients. It’s BYOB here, with beverage set ups and no corkage fee. $$$$ Br L FORK & BARREL 2244 Frankfort Ave., 907-3675. Chef/owner Geoffrey Heyde serves upscale modern American cuisine in upper Clifton, with an emphasis on local ingredients, craft cocktails and southern hospitality. Look for pork shank with roasted garlic grits, F&B dip, buttermilk-soaked and cornmeal dusted chicken livers and chocolate bourbon truffles.. $$$ D hp HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. This true farm-totable restaurant celebrates its local suppliers with photo murals on the walls. Chef Jeff Dailey’s seasonal menus, using ingredients sourced within a 100-mile radius, include dishes such as, currently, lamb arancinis, buttermilk fried chicken, butternut squash soup, and catfish from Kentucky Lake. $$$ Br D hpf J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashvillebased chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. This twodecade-old Prospect mainstay is now owned by long-

time employees Charissa Humston and Jenny Neaveill. The substantial menu—grilled steaks and chops, pasta, seafood, fried green tomatoes and chicken livers with gravy—is served with aplomb in a quiet, comfortable dining room. $$$ D p MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 6253001. Going to a show downtown? Chow down first at Marketplace. The elegant decor, whether at the circular bar, in the serene dining room, or any of the three outdoor spaces will get you in the mood, and the seasonal Italian-influenced southern cuisine will get you to the curtain well fed indeed. $$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. If you have pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s, The Melting Pot is for you. If you can melt it and dip things in it, it’s probably on the menu. $$$ D hp MESH 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 632-4421. The lush modern building and the casual/elegant menu have made a strong presence in the neighborhood. The cosmopolitan menu includes kung pao calamari, beet salad, Amish chicken and mushroom strudel, all served in an atmosphere of “contemporary elegance and comfort. $$$ Br L D pf NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 423-5822. An eclectic mix of California-inspired fusion dishes served in a clean, crisp, informally classy atmosphere have made Napa a long-time favorite. Chef Steve Butkus’s lunch offerings range from chicken quesadillas to Asian ahi nachos. The lovely patio makes for lazy summer dining on blackened redfish, beef tenderloin or baked squash ratatouille. $$$ Br L D hpf OLD STONE INN AND TAVERN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY. (502) 722-8200. This century-old restaurant has taken on renewed popularity and cachet under the ownership of Churchill Downs Executive Chef David Danielson, whose team appreciates its history as

much as he does. His menu and service strive to connect the past with the present. Dine in the main rooms, the bar or on the impressive patio. $$$ D pf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 2176360. Executive Chef Mike Wadja has kept the bison burger and the charred octopus, favorites from Proof’s start, even as he has put his own stamp on the menu with dishes such as coconut roasted cauliflower steak, ham and clams spaghetti and extensive charcuterie choices. The bar remains one of the hippest in town. $$$ B Br L D hpf RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. John Varanese riverfront seafoodoriented place with servis dockside and has a much expanded patio and lawn chairs to relax waterside. River House’s menu, inspired by New Orleans and Charleston, emphasizes Southern cuisine leaning toward tastes from the sea. There ‘s a raw bar, but that won’t stop him from grilling oysters topped with smoldering herbs. $$$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. New York hip meets Kentucky farm produce and meats, resulting in a daily menu focused on what is freshest. Dishes show unpretentious flair, served in a sleek East Market Street ambiance. $$ D hpf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 581-1234. The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth Street in good weather and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken, cooked to order, quickly became a signature dish. $$$$ D pf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. The Uptown has been an excellent spot for lunch and bistrostyle dinners for so long that people seem to take it for granted. Those in the know find it an excellent value, for its Highlands location and sophisticated ambience, as well as the eclectic modern menu that includes seasonal small plate selections by long-time chef Matt Weber. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese’s signature restaurant (he has River House and Levee too) has a slate-backed interior waterfall and a folding front wall that opens in good weather. The lively, international seasonal menu is buttressed by frequent special wine, whiskey or beer dinners. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.) WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 589-5224. Understated elegance and creative dishes from Chef Rory O’Connell characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish. Open Thur.Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf

502 BAR & BISTRO 10401 Meeting Pl., 742-4772. This sleek, contemporary spot in Norton Commons, has lots of TVs, but the food is several notches above the norm of sports bars. Try Chef Ming Pu’s charred broccolfi soup, brown butter sage gnocchi or cauliflower steak. A full bar and signature cocktails, and brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. $$ Br D hpf ANOOSH BISTRO 4864 Brownsboro Rd., 690-6585. Anoosh Shariat’s elegant Brownsboro Center space has an eclectic lunch and dinner menu that includes trout provençal, coconut curry tofu, grilled romaine salad, and house-made pastas and risottos. $$ L D p 50 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:35 AM Page 51

BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Its central location across from the Convention Center and a short stroll from the Yum! Center makes this stylish casual bistro a good choice. Dine in the hospitable bar or in the relaxed dining room. There is a wide choice of salads and sandwiches at lunch; steaks, chops and pastas anchor the dinner menu. The tortellini diablo has been a long-time favorite. $$$ L D pf BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. Located in an historic Clifton building, Bourbons Bistro stocks a selection of more than 130 bourbons, including a barrel selection program. Chef Jereme McFarland’s bourbon-inspired, seasonally-influenced menu recently has featured tuna poke tacos, sweet potato gnocchi and bourbon bread pudding. $$$ D pf BRIDGE & BARREL 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 206-7170. Bridge & Barrel, offering upscale Southern comfort foods like fried green tomatoes, blackeyed pea hummus, smoked pork shoulder sandwiches fried chicken and catfish platters. Enjoy it all with sweeping views of the Ohio River and the Louisville skyline. $$ L D pfe BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY 1076 E. Washington St., 742-8315. Bobby Benjamin’s restaurant offers housemade pasta and charcuterie, a chef’s table near the kitchen, and dishes such as whole rotisserie chicken and the Grocery steak, a bone-in, 55-day dry-aged ribeye served with black truffle béarnaise. An upstairs entertainment space, Lola, has intimate seating and its own kitchen for late-night noshing. $$$ Br L D hp CUVÉE WINE TABLE 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 242-5200. Scott Harper and others from the Bristol Bar & Grille organization have made this wine bar and café in the East End a fine stop for after work. Drop in to explore Master Sommelier Harper’s adventurous wine list with tasting pours and small plates of charcuterie, cheeses, salads and snacks from the kitchen. Look for regular casual classes organized on various wine themes. $$ L D hpf DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Owner Marshall Grissom offers breakfast, lunch and dinner in the comfortable, brick-walled downtown space. Get your day going with eggs, omelets or bread pudding French toast. Lunch on salads, sandwiches or burgers or choose a dinner entrée (a notable Hot Brown or chicken and waffles) any time of the day or night. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informal Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EGGS OVER FRANKFORT 2712 Frankfort Ave., 7094452. Husband and wife team Jackson and Cortney Nave have creatively refurbished this Crescent Hill space into a “very traditional” breakfast spot. Its menu includes omelets, eggs Benedict, waffles and oatmeal, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. $ B Br L GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a wood-fired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. One of the more unusual restaurant spaces in town, Hammerheads

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019

51


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:35 AM Page 52

is also one of the hippest. Adam Burress and Chase Murcerino, who share owner and chef duties, fire up their BBQ smoker street-side, and fans far and wide flock to the semi-basement space on the edge of Germantown to partake of pulled pork and beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches, pork belly BLTs and soft shell crab tacos. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of smll plates and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $$ L D h e JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. Under new ownership of Jared Matthews, Jack’s remains a sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door. Regulars are happy that the change in ownership has not changed much about Jack’s convivial atmosphere and stellar bar offerings $ D pf LEVEE AT RIVER HOUSE 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. Levee is the more casual, family oriented component to John Varanese’s River House venture. Small plates and other light eats, all priced under $15, and entertainment are on offer nightly. That live music program include an eclectic mix of jazz, blues, salsa and even “beachy music.” $$ D hpfe LOU LOU FOOD + DRINK 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. Jared Matthews, who also operates Equus and Jack’s

Lounge, continues the Café Lou Lou tradition of Nawlins-style Cajun food, but Chef Jon Pauly has added other casual fare including pizza and calzones. $$ Br L D hp

coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe

LOUVINO 1606 Bardstown Rd., 365-1921, 11400 Main St., 742-1456. These two wine bars have become so popular that owners Chad and Lauren Coulter have opened outlets in Cincinnati and Indianapolis. The seasonal shareable small plates menu and clever organization of the wine list make this a prime spot for a night out with friends. A myriad of wines by the glass are available fresh from their wine dispensing cruvinet system. $$ Br D pfe

THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. In this Clifton honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music, all on vinyl, is the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has happy fans crowding in most nights. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br D hpf

MERLE’S WHISKEY KITCHEN 122 W. Main St., 2908888. Tony Palombino’s popular Whiskey Row food and music spot across from the KFC Yum! Center offers live music on a regular basis and a menu that emphasizes tacos and Southern fried chicken. Sides offered include sweet potato casserole, long-cooked green beans and a candied bacon appetizer. 100 bourbons are currently on offer, including handpicked private barrels from Buffalo Trace, Maker’s Mark, Wild Turkey and others. $ L D

hpe

NEIGHBORHOOD SERVICES 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. This casual eating option in the new Omni hotel serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and offers relaxed indoor and outdoor dining. Enter from the hotel or street. $$$ B L D pf NOOSH NOSH 4816 Brownsboro Ctr., 205-2888. Anoosh Shariat’s second restaurant in the Brownsboro Center is a family-style eatery centered around a rustic stone oven in an open kitchen. Breakfast offers several omelet choices, tikka eggs and tofu florentine. For lunch or dinner, share smoked salmon bruschetta, Nosh nachos or Thai-style mussels, pastas, flatbreads or sandwiches. $$$ B Br L D pf NOUVELLE BAR & BOTTLE 214 S. Clay St., 631-9428. This French-style wine bar sells 40+ wines by the glass (in 3-, 6- or 9-ounce pours) and 200 to 300 wines by the bottle, focusing on affordable, interesting wines. A selection of beers, ciders, classic cocktails, bourbons and scotches also are available. A small bites menu – cheese, charcuterie, hummus, baked goods – is offered, along with desserts. $ L D hpf OLIVE LEAF BISTRO 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1252. Walk over the Big Four bridge for a meal that draws on the rich food traditions of countries ringing the Mediterranean. Olive Leaf Bistro serves everything from spanakopita and falafel to rigatoni bolognese and lobster, shrimp and crab ravioli to burgers, gyros and panini. $$$ L D hpf OSTRA 1758 Frankfort Ave., 915-0160. Adam Burress (Game, Hammerheads, Migo) and partners have taken over the funky Barcode 1758 space in Clifton, serving a menu focused on sustainable food. The seasonal menu includes shellfish, rabbit, locally sourced poultry and even some unusual sustainable foods, like crickets in the brownies. $$ D pf P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinese-style dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 9459463. All the wines here – 26 varieties in all – are produced and bottled on the premises. Wine tastings and, upon request, wine cellar tours are available. The winery is also a full-service restaurant, with brick oven pizzas a specialty. $$ L D e SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 3841600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or

52 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

SMOKE & RYE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, (812) 969-6423. This eatery focuses on house-ground burgers and BBQ (with buns baked fresh daily on premises) and offers, according to management, “one of the nation’s largest selections of Bourbon and Rye whiskey found under a single roof.” Sip your specialty cocktails or spiked milkshakes while listening to live music. $$ L D hpe SOMEWHERE LOUISVILLE 1135 Bardstown Rd., 5526942. Now you can dine and have some cocktails, and then slide right next door to Nowhere for late-night fun and games. The kitchen is run by Scott Darnell, formerly of Lilly’s, cooking up an eclectic Southern-inspired menu. The fare includes beer cheese and pretzels, smoked wings, buttermilk fried chicken and 3 varieties of flatbreads. $$ D hpfe THE CHAMPAGNERY AT ARCHITYPE GALLERY 1764 Frankfort Ave., 896-8050. This Clifton business hosts art shows and now also has a full bar with a focus on more than 120 Champagnes and sparkling wines plus a menu of light bites – oysters, caviar, charcuterie, cheeses, fruit and desserts. $$$ D hp THE FAT LAMB 2011 Grinstead Dr., 409-7499. Dallas McGarity, a veteran of several top restaurants, now has his own place in the heart of the Highlands, serving lunch and dinner. He focuses on small plates such as lamb meatballs with tzatziki and peperonata, ricotta brioche toast, fried tandoori spiced cauliflower, ricotta gnocchi and lamb ragu. $$ D hpf THE HUB LOUISVILLE 2235 Frankfort Ave., 777-1505. Clifton has taken to this sprawling modern restaurant, cocktail bar and adult rec center with gusto. The Southern-inspired small plates menu and its specials board of rotating entrees pleases multiple tastes. The bar boasts a big rum and tequila selection, with alcoholic floats a specialty. The lively patio is packed in good weather. $$ D hpfe THE PINE ROOM 6325 River Rd., 528-4422. Augusta Holland is behind the modern incarnation of this classic Prospect restaurant, in the space that most recently was Cast Iron Steakhouse. James Moran has taken over as chef, with a new seasonal menu. Start with, perhaps, the pan-fried spinach dumplings, then go for the cocomut red curry salmon, or the bone-in pork chop with Bourbon mustard sorghum glaze. The buttermilk fried chicken is still there, too. $$$ Br D hpfe URBAN BREAD CO. 1000 Auction Way, Jeffersonville IN, 913-1426, 130 W. Riverside Dr. (inside Flat 12 Bierworks), Jeffersonville IN, 590-3219. This company now has two locations selling their roti sandwiches and creative side dishes. Specializing in rotis, reminiscent of tacos, with a softer, chewier texture, come with an eclectic choice of toppings, from ancho chicken to Nutella and bacon to blackened salmon to smoked tofu. $BLDp VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:35 AM Page 53

wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf WATERFRONT WINE & SPIRITS 222 E. Witherspoon St., 822-3033. This wine shop located in Waterfront Park Place condominium building has a 20-seat bar area serving charcuterie, cheeses and soon, small plates, where you can sample before you buy from the large array of wines and bourbons or a smaller selection of other spirits. Craft beers, too. $ D pfe WILTSHIRE AT THE SPEED 2035 S. Third St., 6342976. Susan Hershberg and her team led by Chef Reed Johnson bring “artfully inspired, creative and seasonal” breakfast and luncheon fare to the Speed Museum. Open at 10 a.m. for pastries, croissants, coffee and tea, lunch is served until 3 p.m. with soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees such as buckwheat noodle salad with seared salmon. A grab-and-go counter is open until 5 p.m. And now a limited dinner menu is served Fridays when the museum is open until 8 p.m. $$ B Br L pf

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4666. This franchise concept from the Florida-based Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CAPTAIN VILLE 2001 Seventh Street Rd., 996-7426. The menu of this Algonquin neighborhood fish house includes perch, cod, salmon and catfish, the best seller. There are crab cakes, too, and sides of fried green tomatoes, fried okra and hush puppies. $ L D h CATFISH HAVEN PAY LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like

to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their payto-fish lake. $$ L D f

worth the effort to find. Its oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f

CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D

HOOKED ON FRANKFORT 3202 Frankfort Ave., 6909951. The owners of Frankfort Ave Beer Depot now operate this fish house two doors away. The menu features fried fish sandwiches, po’ boys, fish tacos, baskets of shrimp or oysters or frog legs. Clam/conch chowder and seafood gumbo, too, or mac and cheese and grilled cheese sandwiches for those who can’t do fish. $$ L D hp

CUNNINGHAM’S CREEKSIDE 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. One of the longest-lived restaurants in the city, Cunningham’s has had several incarnations, and now pulls in old timers and new fans at its Harrod’s Creek location. There you can find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this long-time favorite. $ Br L D hpf

HULL & HIGH WATER 324 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 725-1054. Eric Morris and Garrett Petters are partners in this moderately priced seafood restaurant and bar, a niche that so far has been overlooked in New Albany’s restaurant renaissance. The “approachable, affordable and fun” menu features low-country boils, raw oysters, po’ boys, fish and chips, and a catch of the day. $$ D

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D pf THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. This friedfish eatery has been popular in the St. Matthews neighborhood for going on two decades. The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ L D HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

hpf

JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 8950544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. This popular riverside restaurant has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 53


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:35 AM Page 54

giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D

hpf

PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer, with no frills, this Jeffersontown tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-ofoysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf SHARK’S SEAFOOD 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 450-5775. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish — white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon — to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. $ L D h VILLE CHICKEN AND SEAFOOD 4322 Poplar Level Rd., 919-8994. The name certainly reveals the focus of this well-kept little neighborhood spot that has reworked an old Arby’s building. There are crawfish and crab legs, too, corn on the cob and very commendable real Southern sweet tea. $$ L D

BOB'S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The signature restaurant located off the lobby in the new Omni Hotel offers

refined service and a decor focused on American thoroughbred racing. A steak menu offers seven prime selections, from ribeye to filet to 28-oz. porterhouse. Seafood, too (crab cakes, scampi, lobster tails), and sumptuous desserts. $$$$ D p BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 290-8220. This Knoxville-based company’s first satellite location has been a downtown hit. A churrascaria works like this: You choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf BROOKLYN & THE BUTCHER 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN. 590-2646. Ian Hall of The Exchange Pub + Kitchen opened this steakhouse in a renovated historic hotel with lots of cool touches: black and white tiles on floor and walls, an open kitchen and a vintage bar counter from an old local Woolworth’s store. The bar program emphasizes bourbon, Scotch and craft beers. The menu includes fresh seafood, small plates and lots of beef — New York strip, bone-in ribeye, flat iron steaks — all as locally sourced as possible. $$$ D pf CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader also operates this riverside eatery where the kitchen cooks steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices. The ambience is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574. These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D hp DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville carnivores continue to fill up this 37-year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. Located on the ground floor of the Starks Building is one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu encompasses high end steaks, well-prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 584-0102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ L D hpe LE MOO 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. Kevin Grangier of Village Anchor & Pub in Anchorage has re-imagined the space that was for decades KT’s, creating a new interior design he calls “Paris brothel meets vintage warehouse,” a lively and amusing space with lots of steel, neon and velvet, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. Chip Lawrence, sous chef at Village Anchor, is executive chef, devising a Euro-eclectic menu with an emphasis on steaks. $$ Br L D hpfe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 2666009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210

54 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 896-9234. A local favorite for more than fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. $$$$ D pf PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The long-standing Louisville location of this New Orleans-based international chain is perched atop the 16-floor Kaden Tower. Ruth’s Chris serves excellent steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ Br D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600, 13321 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0085, 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8975005. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

21ST AMENDMENT TAVERN 1481 S. Shelby St., 6547221. The former Club 21 has been restored and reimagined as a Schitzelburg neighborhood bar with a food menu that is both Kentucky-centric and a nod to longmissing German-American food. In addition to a selection of burgers, look for the baloney burger, a Neighborhood Nosh meat board with braunschweiger and pickled eggs and other retro bar favorites. $$ L D hpf CORNER 102 W. Main St., 583-1888. Corner is the bar and restaurant attached to the chic, contemporary Aloft Hotel downtown. The emphasis here is on the bar, with a wine and cocktail menu longer and more creative than the food side. Still, there are solid bar munchies, from dips and deviled eggs to sandwiches, salads and tacos. $$ B D pf CRESCENT HILL CRAFT HOUSE 2636 Frankfort Ave., 895-9400. This beer pub serves only locally produced beers, and the menu is focused on local food sources.

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:35 AM Page 55

You’ll find everything from charcuterie and cheese curds to salads, fun sandwiches and dinner plates of striped bass or chicken. There is live music and outdoor dining in season. $$ Br L D hpf

duck gravy, an open-face short rib sandwich, crepes, and a coffee bar, with house-made sodas, shrubs and kombucha. Also beers on tap and in the cooler. $$ B Br L f

DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR & RESTAURANT 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hold stocks 150-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. Well-priced bar food like biscuit sandwiches, tacos and Frito Pie make for a quick, satisfying lunch. Bluegrass music several times a week too. $$ L D p fe

H. M. FRANK'S AN O'SHEA'S PUBLIC HOUSE 355 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1174. Upon gutting the interior and re-building the facade of this 1880’s-era building, the original identity of H.M. Frank’s Dry Goods store was uncovered, a discovery that has given this O’Shea’s outpost its name. The bar is made from repurposed barn wood, there’s an event space upstairs, and upscale bar food is created by Chef Michael Bradley. $$ L D hpf

EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building such a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu that he has had to expand his dining room and patio. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes house-made ginger ale. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list bring in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D h f GALAXIE 732 E. Market St., 690-6565. The guys behind RYE just down the street now have the Green Building space for a bar dedicated to moderately priced drinks ($7 cocktails are what they are shooting for) and a bar menu of “international-inspired street food,” which was described as “easy to take with you,” so you can nosh as you imbibe. $$ L D hpf GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 454-7075. In the house behind the Holy Grale’s is Gralehouse, a café and deli. Its breakfast and lunch menu includes biscuit and

THE HALL ON WASHINGTON 111 W. Main St., 3841600. Inspired by the conviviality of German beer halls, this Whiskey Row spot serves a menu featuring small plates of sausages, charcuterie, cheeses and pickled vegetables, plus beef, lamb, chicken and seafood entrées. The full bar has dozens of rotating draft beers and ciders, canned and bottled beers. $$ L D hp THE MANHATTAN PROJECT 2101 Frankfort Ave., 7498925. This upscale gastropub has expanded, with a main room now looking out on the lively Cifton streetscape. The new menu includes short rib sliders, chicken and waffles and four kinds of fries. Mac ’n’ cheese has its own menu section listing almost a dozen possible adds ons— from bacon to crab to pork cheek to grilled chicken. TMP has become popular for its brunch, tacos & trivia Tuesdays, and the original space in the rear is a great sports watching or special party venue. $$ Br L D

hpfe

WORLD OF BEER 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 690-4280. This Florida-based chain serves a wide variety of craft beers and sports a tavern menu that is a few notches above the usual bar food: wings and sandwiches, sure, but also chimichurri meatballs, ahi tuna poke and chipotle BBQ

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

chicken flatbread. Its giant pretzel and beer cheese is a great shared nibbler. $$ L D hpfe

80/20 @ KAELIN’S 1801 Newburg Rd., 200-8020. Burgers are back at the birthplace of the cheeseburger. Chef Matt Staggs's “rustic regional” menu offers 7 burgers and 7 entrées at this complete renovation of the classic Kaelin’s space. There’s a malt shop serving fountain drinks and house-made ice cream on one side, and a family-friendly restaurant and bar on the other. Seating on the spacious patio/porch, and upstairs is a large private room fo r parties and meetings. $$ L D h pf BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D BUFFALO WILD WINGS 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 10206 Westport Rd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464, 4917 Outer Loop, 964-5803. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D h f THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 55


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 56

chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf COX'S HOT CHICKEN 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville 5903281; 110 E. Main St., New Albany 944-4032. Taking over the spaces formerly occupied by Big Four Burgers, Cox’s positions itself as a family-friendly sports bar with burgers and sandwiches as well as chicken. The Jeffersonville location boasts a Goodwood Brewing taproom on the second floor. $ B L D hpf CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001, 1555 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0810. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain popular. $ L D f DADDY RICH’S 617 W. Oak St., 290-9110. The kitchen incubator Chef Space gave birth to this new Old Louisville soul food spot. Owner Rodrick Martin named it after his late grandfather, who inspired him. The limited cooked to order menu includes chicken wraps, mini-waffles and ten wing flavors, with DINO’S FOOD MART 2601 W. Broadway, 774-4333. This little grocery and convenience store also serves up

some of the most popular takeout fried chicken in the West End. $ L D DIXIE CHICKEN 1785 W. Oak St., 690-2748, 3947 Dixie Hwy., 448-2102, 8118 Preston Hwy., 450-5002. A growing fried chicken spot that serves up honest fried chicken and good, standard sides at reasonable prices, Dixie Chicken now has an eat-in outlet on Preston, in addition to their take-out only spots in Old Louisville and on the edge of Shively. $$ L D h DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery, an institution that goes back more than 50 years, hasn’t changed much. It opens early, stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf FAMILY TIES 1809 W. Jefferson St., 915-7069, 1030 Cecil Ave., 907-6548. This pair of restaurants has a dual personality. The Jefferson St. location is more sports bar with a menu of burgers, wings, hot dogs and brats. The Cecil Ave. location offers more of the same, but the main focus is on barbecue. $ B L D h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 4261702, 4226 Shelbyville Rd., 891-8848, 4917 Outerloop, 822-3702, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1027. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big smoky kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, freshcut fries and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GRIND BURGER KITCHEN 829 E. Market St., 8517333. Owners Liz and Jesse Huot are firmly established now in NuLu, giving them much-needed parking, as well as a full bar. In addition to their signature burgers, the Huots have a chopped chicken sandwich, an “adult” grilled cheese made with Brie and Gruyere and a couple of salad choices. $$ L D f HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2723 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries with a baseball theme highlight these suburban spots, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D

hpfe

INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-9099, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-3980, 4590 Dixie Hwy., 4474856, 4419 Cane Run Rd., 448-1109, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 969-5352. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $LDh JEFF'S BURGER SHACK 14126 Dixie Hwy., 384-0972. The building was once an A&W outlet; now it is a locally-owned casual fast food spot offering freshly made burgers (with a wide choice of toppings), freshly-cut fries, and milkshakes. $ L D JOELLA’S HOT CHICKEN 3400 Frankfort Ave., 8952235, 13401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1111. At this Nashville-style chicken emporium, diners will find traditional Southern-fried chicken spiced medium, hot and hotter. House-made sides, of course, and local craft beers and wine, and fresh-squeezed lemonade, too. $$ L D hpf KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013, 5603 Preston Hwy., 654-7707. $ L D h 56 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 3844834, 113 S. Seventh St., 749-6451. The unusual combination in the name sparks immediate interest; the consistently excellent offerings of both shellfish and meat patties keeps satisfied customers coming back. Choose from six different sauces for the mussels, and 12 clever twists on burgers. The downtown venue has an expanded menu and a handsome outdoor courtyard. L D hpfe OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisville-based chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L OSKAR'S SLIDER BAR 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 395-9010. Jesse and Liz Huot (Grind Burger Kitchen) expand on their burger concept with a new slider bar. Oskar’s (the name inspired by the Huot’s son, Oskar) offers over a dozen slider choices – chicken, fried fish and pork belly in addition to the expected ground beef mini-burgers. Fries and salads, too. $$ L D p RAILBIRDS HOT CHICKEN 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. Grab some wings or jumbo tenders at your choice of heat level or other nonspicy chicken dishes and sides like fries and slaws before you head back to the games. $ L D h RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040, 6811 Bardstown Rd., 654-7737, 5212 Dixie Hwy., 742-9035, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 822-1188, 12009 Shelbyville Rd., 434-7681, 1905 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9441. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. Six locations in town now, all offering simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 948-9895. This Seattlebased chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations and S. Indiana. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf RED TOP GOURMET HOT DOGS 1127 Logan St., 6402032. The journey from street cart to food truck to storefront is complete. Ryan Cohee's all beef, nitrate and preservative free hotdogs can be found now in Shelby Park. Bison and Waygu beef choices, as well as vegan/ vegetarian-friendly dogs. Columbus-style sauerkraut balls, too. $ L D hp ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 618-1128, 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 7082798. With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbusbased wings-and-brews chain is now spreading its franchise reach across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its six local properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D

hpf

ROYALS HOT CHICKEN 736 E. Market St., 919-7068. Ryan Rogers first pressure-fries his chicken, then, in the Nashville style, blankets it with a paste of oil and spices delivering mild to “Gonzo’ heat. If you’re not in the mood for bird, salads and even Southern-fried tofu are on the menu. $$L D f SAVANNAH RESTAURANT 2750 S. Seventh St., 2425108. This modest little near West End spot provides neighborhood diners with wings, fried fish, burgers and fries. $ L D h SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport) 363-2526. A growing chain located mostly in

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 57

the West and the South now has three Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open more area locations. $ L D f STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h STOUT BURGERS & BEER 1604 Bardstown Rd., 4598234. This California burger and brew concept serves a custom beef blend of chuck and brisket ground and grilled in-house two ways: pink and not pink, and the limited menu of chef-created sandwiches is clever and tasty. Craft beers from local, national and international breweries are poured from 30 taps and a selection of bottles, and each is paired by suggestions written on the food menu. $ L D THE CHILLBURGER 500 LaFollette Station Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8283; 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 725-9157. These two Southern Indiana burger places tout freshly-ground USDA Choice beef, fresh-cut fries and milk shakes and sundaes from hormone-free dairy. Chicken and fish sandwiches, too. $ L D f THE EAGLE 1314 Bardstown Rd., 498-8420. The Eagle, a small Cincinnati-based chain serving fried chicken, fivecheese macaroni, collard greens, house-made biscuits and other comfort food, has established itself firmly in the Bardstown Rd. restaurant row. The three-season patio is laid-back and amenable to larger groups. The beer list here is a good one. $ L D hpf W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 8979684. This locally owned and operated build-your-own burger joint has packed in fans at its location near Dupont Circle for over 30 years, serving substantial burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and offering more than 40 toppings on the lengthy condiments bar. $ LDh

Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp ASPIRE CAFÉ & JUICE BAR 332 W. Broadway, 8044756. This African-soul food fusion restaurant, relocated in the Heyburn Building, offers vegetarian and vegan foods, including a specialty, a Nigerian stew. $ B L f ATLANTIC NO. 5 605 W. Main St., 883-3398. Owners Mary Wheatley and Rebecca Johnson offer fresh takes on breakfast and lunch in this sharp Main St. renovation. Eat in or take away hearty biscuits, ham slider breakfast sandwiches, bagels or house-made granola. At lunch choose simple grilled cheese or specialty sandwiches like Mediterranean tuna or Cuban press. $ B Br L pfe ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty Europeanstyle breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L D hf BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. Named after the owner’s dear, departed beagle, Boomer’s is a popular, low-key downtown deli in the heart of the museum district. Sandwiches, burger and fries, homemade chocolate cookies, and good coffee. $ L BORSALINO CAFÉ & DELI 3825 Bardstown Rd., 8075325. This Buechel store is somewhere between a coffee shop, a fancy bakery and a deli. You can stop in for

your morning coffee and sweet bun to go, buy a cake for dessert or take away a stuffed pita for lunch. $ B L D hf CAFÉ 157 157 E. Main St., (502) 548-9114. This little café downtown serves breakfast and lunch daily except Wednesdays, dinner on Thursday through Saturday, and Sunday brunch. The menu skews to Southern comfort foods, all fresh and scratch-made, including corned beef cured in-house. The owner ran Old Bridge Inn B&B, for many years. $$ B Br L D p CAFÉ 223 223 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1877. Carol and Steve Stembro, owners of Jeffersonville's Market Street Inn, have renovated a house near the Big Four Bridge, to provide sustenance for cross-river walkers and J’ville regulars, who will find baked goods and breakfast items in the morning, and paninis, salads, soups and hot and cold beverages for lunch. $ B L f CAFÉ ON MEIGS 425 Meigs Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 2888515. The menu at this downtown J’ville lunch spot emphasizes fresh local ingredients and the avoidance of preservatives and processed ingredients. Although the usual suspects are there — chicken salad, roast beef sandwiches with Swiss cheese and red onion, Benedictine, grilled cheese, Cobb salad — all are done with integrity. $ L CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch or supper. $$ B L D fe CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot where owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such

WHISKEY DRY 412 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!) 749-7933. Ed Lee expands his local empire to Fourth Street Live! with this casual burger and whiskey bar, boasting a “chef-centric point of view” features a suggested whiskey pairing for each burger and more than 200 whiskeys from America, Ireland, Japan and elsewhere. $$ L D hpf THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445, 3038 Hunsinger Ln., 618-0106. Wing Zone, with locations scattered across the eastern U.S., excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Tame to Nuclear Habanero. Burgers, fried shrimp and sides as well. $ L D hf WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000, 2007 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7171. This Texas-based chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp ZAXBY’S (9 Locations) There are now 9 outlets in Louisville and Southern Indiana. The casual dining chain cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wingz and fingerz - that sort of thing. $ L D h

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino.

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 57


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 58

as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f

sandwiches, pizza, salads and soups, including unusual offerings such as a ramp pesto, duck and potato pizza, and a grilled portobello wrap. $$ L

CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 222 Eastern Pkwy., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L

HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 883-0203. You can order breakfast anytime at both locations, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h

CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. This family-owned and operated, classier-than-the-averagestrip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 30 years. The Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlic-basil chicken pizza) and dishes like the Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D hp

HOT BOX EATERY 438 W. Market St., 822-3995. Try their fresh soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps and daily specials. Menu choices include a Brie and salami wrap, Indonesian chicken peanut satay, pork schnitzel, a turkey club wrap and a gyro — in other words, an appealingly diverse selection. $ L

CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 8961488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f CUP OF JOY 2507 Bank St., 919-9074. This coffee shop and café, located in a former bar, is a project of Haven Ministries and run mostly by volunteers. According to founder Esther Lyon, the food is “homemade, downhome cooking … biscuits and gravy, homemade potato soup, chicken and dumplings, turnovers, pastries.” Nothing on the menu tops $5. $ B L DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 637-1111. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf FARM TO FORK CAFÉ 2425 Portland Ave., 365-3276. Farm to Fork, for many years a premier catering company known for its Southern favorites made from scratch from regionally sourced ingredients, has moved its operations to a former Portland firehouse and has opened a café serving breakfast and lunch. The seasonal menu includes grits, biscuits, soup, salads and sandwiches. $ B L p FULL STOP FILLING STATION 1132 E. St. Catherine St., 260-8046. This former car repair shop is now a grab and go coffee shop and deli, offering locally-sourced food, coffee and a few grocery items, a limited to-go beer section and some beers on tap. Café open until 5; kitchen closes at 2 p.m. $ B L p GRACIOUS PLENTY 9207 US Hwy 42, 618-4755, 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 618-4755. Eat in or carry away fresh sandwiches, salads and soups, cookies and brownies at this Brownsboro Rd. deli and bakery, which also serves alcohol. Take away meals to heat up at home for dinner, too. The Prospect location is catering and carry-out only. $LDp HAYMARKET BISTRO 300 E. Market St., 779-6825. Atria Senior Living has moved its employee café to the first floor and opened it to the public, serving lunch to downtown workers. Haymarket Bistro's menu includes 58 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf JW CAFÉ & BAKERY 2301 Terra Crossing Blvd., 9075248. The bakery part of this East End spot offers scones and cupcakes and other expected bakery treats. The café part has a variety of lunch items, including Korean specialties. The smoked salmon salad has won fans quickly. $ B L f KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f KEVIN'S PICNIC 11505 Park Rd., 690-3310. PICNIC opened as a café, but owner Kevin Grangier has rethought his concept. This Anchorage property is now a bakery and catering business only. No more salads and sandwiches, but there are plenty of pastries, cakes, pies and other baked goods. $ B Br L pf LA PECHE GOURMET TO GO AND CAFÉ 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Kathy Cary’s return to her roots with this popular gourmet take-out counter, in the corner of her restaurant, Lilly’s. Featuring “tried and true” dishes like grilled chicken pasta, burgers, vegetarian sandwiches, chicken salad, “lots of great produce, affordable cuts of meat” and a dessert case that always includes strawberry pie. $$ B L D LE PETIT CAFÉ 1325 Bardstown Rd., 749-0883. The space that was Roux now houses this tiny crèperie and sandwich spot serving breakfast and lunch. There are savory and sweet crepes, as well as smoothies and French toast. $$ B L D h MELROSE CAFÉ 13206 Hwy. 42, 409-6784. Kristin breakfast and lunch spot sits just on the Louisville side of the Jefferson-Oldham Countie line. She named her suburban cafe is homage to the late, lamented Melrose Inn, which was located nearby. Fans find much satisfaction with cooked-to-order breakfasts, hearty sandwiches and a convivial atmosphere. $$ B L D MORELS CAFÉ 619 Baxter Ave., 409-5916. Vegans who want “indulgent” vegan dishes like “cheese steak” and “chicken salad” can find equivalents of such crafted from soy and tempeh at this deli run by the creator of vegan jerky. $$ L D f NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770. This long-time favorite offers hearty and unusual breakfasts, satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood

orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L PROSPECT CAFÉ 9550 US Hwy. 42, 708-2151. Conveniently located at the intersection of River Rd. and Hwy. 42, stop in for hot sandwiches (Cuban, Reuben, grilled Italian, Bourbon BBQ) or cold deli stuff — club sandwich, egg, tuna or chicken salad, or soups like chicken and dumplings. Chess bars and banana pudding too. $ L PURRFECT DAY CAT CAFÉ 1741 Bardstown Rd., 9165051. One room is a wine bar with snacks and small bites provided by local bakeries. The other room, by reservation, is a Cat Room, populated by cats needing homes, provided by the Humane Society. Bring in a drink, and play and cuddle with kitties — and maybe take one home. $ B L D hp QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 5830273. $ B L f RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, with Cuban, Jamaican, Greek and Middle Eastern dishes. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf RED HOG 2622 Frankfort Ave., 384-0795. Kit Garrett and Bob Hancock, owners of Blue Dog Bakery, now also have this butcher shop and café offering artisan cured meats in Crescent Hill. Pasture-raised pork, beef, bison, lamb and poultry are available. The café serves small plates and pizzas fired from their wood-burning oven. The bar offers craft cocktails and 12 beer taps. $$ L D pf RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 893-5118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f STARLIGHT CAFÉ 19816 Huber Road, Starlight IN, 9239813. This café in the Winery building at Huber Farm provides light lunch items such as seasonal soups, Rueben sandwiches, a turkey club, chicken salad or artisan flatbread pizza. Dine inside in the dining room or outside on the patio that overlooks the 550-acre farm. Huber wines and cocktails made from spirits distilled on the premises available too. $$ L D pf THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see the traffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amused at the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent of its former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Since 1975 this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 59

THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 8961133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L THE TABLE 1800 Portland Ave., 708-2505. This West End non-profit, social entrepreneurship experiment serves locally grown, fresh food and operates under a pay-what-you-can model. Pay suggested prices if you can, or if not, contribute your time. Or donate more to “pay it forward.” The menu offers soups, salads, sandwiches and sides. $ L D VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community reentry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts for under $5; a lunch buffet is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too. It’s a do-gooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449, 121 S. Floyd St., 690-5925, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN 913-4735. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s fifth outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 Caterer/restaurateur Susan Hershberg’s popular bakery and café operation, a welcome stop for those wanting artisanal breads, scones and croissants, now serves full breakfasts (Tuscan egg sandwich, breakfast grain bowl, frittata, smoked salmon plate) as well as sandwiches and paninis, side salads and more from the cafe. $ B L

Sports complex. The 400-seat, two-story dining facility boasts outdoor seating overlooking the sand volleyball courts, 27 TVs inside, a performance venue, a cigar humidor and outdoor smoking lounge. Chef Jason Pierce serves up his take on American family standards: burgers, sandwiches, pizza and so on. $$ L D hpfe BOUJIE BISCUIT 1813 Frankfort Ave., 269-8426. This tiny Clifton space advertises, “Scratch-made comfort food on a handcrafted buttermilk biscuit.” The menu is mostly sandwiches, served on oversized biscuits—ham and three-cheese biscuit, chicken pot pie biscuit and three different burger biscuits. Every sandwich is served in a cardboard to-go box, which most diners find they need. $$ B L f BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brickhouse, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D hpf BROOKE & BILLY’S BITES, BOURBONS & BREWS 751 Vine St., 583-9165. The restored 135+ year-old building has a secluded patio and revamped dining room in a cool, out-of-the-way neighborhood—and, it now has a new identity. The menu refocuses on house specials like fried chicken, a breakfast Hot Brown, and an extensive selection of sandwiches and small bites. $$$ L D pf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN 2842919. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of allAmerican fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. Both locations house big square bars with a multitude of TV screens for excellent sports viewing. $$ L D hpf

CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 5895200. The Galt House’s quick and casual second-floor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a latenight burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D p CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 3395400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallasbased chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D

hpf

CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 694-9445, 3007 Poplar Level Rd., 638-5202, 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-3000. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this

ZEGGZ AMAZING EGGS 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 8821650, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-6292. This fast-growing, quick-service breakfast and lunch chain offers five house omelets (plus the chance to build your own), three variations on eggs Benedict, as well as biscuits and gravy, croque madames, waffles and pancakes. Luncheon fare includes a B.A.L.T (the ‘a’ is for avocado), salads and soups. $$ B Br L pf

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 9237770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have branched out to four locations. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S (5 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200, 302 Bullitt Ln., 425-0077. A lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp BLIND SQUIRREL 592 N. English Station Rd., 384-6761. This American-style restaurant is part of the King Louis

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 59


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 60

national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D h

noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D

COMMON TABLE 2234 W Market St., 873-2566. A dash of social justice adds savor to the food at this restaurant run as a culinary arts training program by Catholic Charities. The kitchen only serves lunch Tuesdays and Thursdays and uses fresh produce grown by refugees in a sister program's incubator farm. Offerings include boxed lunches and a seasonal menu with a “worldly” mix of dishes including Thai, Cuban, Pakistani and Bosnian. $ L

HARROD’S CREEK TAVERN 6313 River Rd., 919-8812. Commuters trundling home to the suburbs can mingle with Prospect residents, river rats and parched kayakers docking out back on Harrod’s Creek. Look for an expanded bar food menu, brown bag lunches to go and late-night food service. $ L D hpfe

CORELIFE EATERY 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-5680. This Syracuse-based franchise offers vegetable and grains bowls, bone and vegetable broth, and grassfed steak, chicken and tofu power plates. $$ L D DOUBLE DOGS 13307 Shelbyville Rd., 244-4430. Double Dogs, a Bowling Green, Ky.-based chain with four locations, has its first Louisville-area restaurant in Middletown. Double Dogs describes itself as “a family friendly restaurant with a sports atmosphere,” serving a variety of appetizers, sandwiches, hot dogs, burgers and pizza. $ L D hpf FIRST WATCH 201 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6075, 960 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1955, 1205 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 575-3447, 2225 Taylorsville Rd., 4447744. This Florida-based chain offers both traditional breakfast fare (fried eggs, sausage), proprietary specials, like French toast Monte Cristo (made with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese), crepes with plenty of fillings and healthful dishes like egg white omelets and cranberry nut oatmeal. Soups, salads and a big choice of sandwiches for lunch. $ B L FREDRICK’S 1508 W. Kentucky St. (St. Stephen Family Life Center), 653-9333. Comfort food with a little culinary love worked into it is served up here by Chef Jerriel Bell. The menu encompasses the soul food spectrum but includes upscale dishes as well. The menu changes often, offering everything from seafood gumbo and chicken Alfredo to pork chops and chicken and waffles. $ L D GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. The specialties here are sliders, meatballs and burgers made from ground exotic meats. Start with bone marrow or fried frog legs, try some wild boar chorizo or bison tongue slicers, or build your own burger from kangaroo, venison, alpaca or prime Angus beef, with bun choices ranging from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. $$ D f GANDER, AN AMERICAN GRILL 111 S. English Station Rd., 915-8484. Chris and Anne Mike, of Goose Creek Diner, have opened Gander, An American Grill, serving steaks, burgers, pasta and sandwiches — "a little bit of everything that makes America what it is," according to Mike. $$$ Br L D hpf GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach reflects its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald. Dinner and lunch menus offer soups, salads, sand wiches and a few entrées, such as sautéed trout with pickled fennel, pesto-crusted chicken, and skirt steak with celery root puree. $$ B L D hp GREEN DISTRICT SALADS 126 Breckenridge Ln., 4095293, 225 S. Fifth St., 409-5293. This quick-service restaurant focusing on build-your-own chopped salads (or select from a menu). Lunch diners can opt for housemade soups and wraps, too. The former AP Grocery & Deli, across from Metro Hall, now is the area’s second location. $$ L D GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with

60 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h INWAVE RESTAURANT & JUICE BAR 10310 Shelbyville Rd., 916-2177. Owner Dr. Kamlesh Dave, a proponent of plant-based diets, positions his vegetarian restaurant as a choice for those wanting to eat more healthfully. The menu includes power bowls (grains, rice, beans, vegetables and a sauce), salads, sandwiches, and flatbreads or pizza with gluten-free crusts. $$ L D JOE'S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 4347470. The Lyndon landmark has returned to its old spot, replacing Red Barn Kitchen, which had replaced Joe’s. The bar is rebuilt and another stuffed moose has been found. But Olé Restaurant Group remains a partner, providing the food: smoked wings, brisket chili, cheese fritters, a mac and cheese burger and a daily lunch plate, all at prices that will appeal to Joe’s original fan base. $$ L D hpf KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where Farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D

hpf

MIRIN 2011 Frankfort Ave., 742-8911, 145 E. Main St. New Albany. Chef Griffin Paulin brings his love for Asian street foods to New Albany as well as his original Clifton store. Mirin’s menu features ramen noodle dishes, Vietnamese-style banh mi sandwiches, Chinese-style steamed bao buns and Banh Khoai Mon, Vietnamese rice balls. $$ D NAÏVE 1001 E. Washington St., 749-7856. This Butchertown vegetarian restaurant has been catering for some months in preparation for its opening as a sit-down restaurant. Its dishes include savory rice bowls, burritos, frittatas and quiches, savory toasts, salads and sandwiches. $$ D pf NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp NOODLES & COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 632-0102, 4300 Summit Plaza Dr., 804-4724, 319 Cardinal Blvd., 632-2846. This Colorado-based fastcasual chain offers an eclectic noodle array: Asian style (pad Thai, Bangkok curry, ), pastas (Tuscan fresca, penne rossa) — or select from a lineup of savory sandwiches and salads.. $ L D f

former Coco's Cakes space. Chili: regular, vegetarian, hot or white; burgers (including a Jersey burger); hot dogs, salads and sides — all at bargain prices. $ L D PORTAGE HOUSE 117 E. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0435. Portage House, in a historic home along the river, has the bar on the first floor, and the second-floor dining room overlooks the Ohio. Recently Dallas McGarity, owner-chef of The Fat Lamb in the Highlands, has bought the restaurant, and has put his personal stamp on the kitchen to rave reviews. $$$ L D pf RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp S BAR 1442 Dixie Hwy., 439-6574. You can get superfood smoothies and shakes at this South End spot, but the unique draw is the selection of “spuds” — loaded baked potatoes topped with things like chicken and broccoli Alfredo, Philly cheese steak, pulled pork and Buffalo chicken. $ L D SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta know it is well worth the trip up into the Knobs above New Albany to enjoy the conviviality of his restaurant, and his always satisfying take on classic American steak, sandwiches and seafood. $$ L D p SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 340 Whittington Pkwy., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SUPERCHEFS 1702 Bardstown Rd., 409-8103. The funky comic book-themed decor in Darnell Ferguson’s Highlands celebrates super heroes during breakfast and lunch, and super villains at dinner. His menu reflecst his super-sized sensibilities: the SuperChefs Omelet, the Pancake Platter, and a seafood pizza with a petite lobster tail on top. $$ B Br L D pf TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 5853577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf THE SPOT 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., 690-3011. The restaurant connected with the Ramada Plaza hotel, The Spot serves breakfast through dinner: eggs and pancakes, mozzarella sticks and fried calamari, pastas, grilled chicken and seafood. $ B L D p h

O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp

TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. On both sides of the river this breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf

OLD LOUISVILLE CHILI BOWL 501 W. Oak St., 3840745. A chili parlor returns to Old Louisville in the

TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 61

to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick filling bite and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h

8TH STREET PIZZA 800 E. Eighth St., New Albany IN, 645-6974. This “boutique, pay-it-forward pizza shop and ministry” serves New York style pizza with a “pay what you can afford concept.” Pay the full suggested price, pay what you can afford to pay, or pay the full amount of the suggested meal price plus a little extra to "pay it forward”. $ L D f ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 4515454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 945-1149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h

into a pizza restaurant and gaming arcade. Rosenberg returns to the robust New York-style pizza that he perfected at Papalino’s, sold as whole pies or by the slice. His menu also includes hot and cold sub sandwiches, chicken wings and salads. An accomplished chef in other styles as well, he cures his own meats on-site. $$ L D hp CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEF'S CUT PIZZERIA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 265-1320. This reasonably priced Lyndon pizza place has sandwiches too, from chili dogs to turkey clubs, and pasta dishes. $ L D p COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 742-8200, 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0106, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Middletown and airport travelers now partake in what St. Matthews diners have enjoyed for a few years–excellent pizzas made in coal-fired ovens burning at 800 degrees F, crisping the crust in 4 minutes and “leoparding” it with black spots. Toppings are fresh and regionally sourced. $$ L D hpf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1836 Mellwood Ave., 890-6331. $$ L D h DERBY CITY PIZZA 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373, 2500 Crittenden Dr., 384-4777, 10619 Manslick Rd., 742-3940. It is always nice when a business’s name is self-explanatory. But the menu offers burgers and wings,

too, along with toasted subs and pasta dishes. An ample supply of TVs make them a good spot for watching games. $$ L D hpf DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. Residents in St. Matthews and in the Highlands can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D hpf FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h FIRENZA PIZZA 12406 Lagrange Rd., 999-2099. This Virginia-based chain touts pizza dough made in-house daily, and a total of 40 combinations of toppings chosen along with six sauces, seven cheeses, nine meats and 17 vegetables. Pies are made-to-order and baked in stonehearth ovens. $$ L D pf THE GRAIN HAUS 41 W. First St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Part of Floyd County Brewing, the separate building across the court yard boasts a wood-fired pizza oven and a rotating list of guest beers alongside beers and ales from Floyd County Brewing. $$ D hpfe HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ LDh JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 458-5387, 10494 Westport Rd.,

ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $$ L D h BLAZE FAST-FIRE’D PIZZA 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8957800, 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 822-3677, 4055 Summit Plaza Dr., 915-8731, 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarsville IN, 406-4347. At this California-based pizza franchise you customize your own pie from a lineup of meat and vegetable toppings, cheeses and several sauces. The pie bakes in just 2 minutes in a flaming hearth oven. There are ready-to-order signature pies also for those who can’t make up their minds. $$ L D p hf BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 935-5540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4171, 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-4111. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept and in locations, from Southern Indiana out to the edge of Middletown. The menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap.$$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h BUTCHERTOWN PIZZA HALL 1301 Story Ave., 3848528. Restaurateur Allan Rosenberg has renovated the building that for over 60 years housed Hall’s Cafeteria

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019

61


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 62

426-1181. Now with a fourth Louisville outlet, this Detroit-based chain offers sit-down service and carryout. The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 7498400. This chain out of Atlanta, GA with its roots starting in Manlius, NY has settled in the neighborhood of Norton Commons. They offer an array of New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (13 Locations) This pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and Italian-American sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L LUPO 1540 Frankfort Ave., 409-8440. Max Balliet, the owner of Holy Molé taco truck, now also has Lupo, a casual Italian restaurant, where he bakes up pizzas on a fire-engine-red wood-fired oven. Along with pizza, Lupo offers a variety of handmade pastas in a restored 19th century Butchertown building. $$ D h pf MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 2469517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h MAC'S DOUGH HOUSE 10509 Watterson Trl., 6942322. This replacement for Johnny V's focuses on two comfort foods: pizza and macaroni and cheese. Choose from a dozen pies with clever names, or mac 'n' cheese variations like buffalo chicken, lobster and crab and a spicy version made with Sriracha and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos. Sandwiches, salads and wings, too. $$ L D hp MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D h MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 409-6874. This small pizza/calzone/hoagie/salad chain touts its stoner origins, as the name, and some of its offerings such as magic mushroom soup and Maui Wowie pizza, imply. Its local outlets have been whittle down to one, in St. Matthews. $$ L D p MIMO’S NEW YORK STYLE PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, New Albany IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix. Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p MOD PIZZA 3085 Breckenridge Ln., 915-7810. The first Louisville location of this Seattle chain makes artisanstyle pizza and salads tossed to order. Its niche is individual pizzas served quickly and with a choice of over 30 toppings, all for one price. Choices are named in typical West Coast fashion: Calexico, Caspian, Lucy Sunshine, and so forth. $ L D pf MOMMA’S PIZZA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike, Jeffersonville IN, 697-3224. Create your own pizza style here or choose one of the specialty pies, such as the Jesse

62 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

James, with jalapeños, spicy sausage and pepperoni and marinara fire sauce, the ranch chicken or Momma’s vegetable pizza. $$ D MOZZA PI 12102 Lagrange Rd., 890-4832. Tom Edwards began MozzaPi several years ago as one of the first food trucks in Louisville. At his Anchorage pizza place he drafts artisanal pies from flour he mills himself. He makes bread too, and gives courses in artisanal baking. $$$ L D pf MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 10035 Dixie Hwy., 632-2504, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for more than 30 years. $$ L D NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D h OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, along with amusing appetizers (jalapeño cheese pretzels, Italian nachos), filling salads, sandwiches and burgers. Check out the imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 882-1776. You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? You can get it in the Eastern suburbs near I265. Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 4542711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 653-7243. Impellizzeri’s massive pies, loved for a generation, are the draw but there is also a full menu of Italian-inspired meals including hoagie sandwiches and pasta dishes at all four locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (10 Locations) $$ L D PARLOUR 131 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 9147400. Parlour, another Big Four Bridge-inspired eatery, offers 40+ beers on tap, a covered outdoor bar with a fire pit, an upstairs bar in the renovated 1870s-era house and green space for games like cornhole, horseshoes and bocce. $$ L D hpf PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644. Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D PIEOLOGY 2043 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-7072. Another pizza chain breaks into what appears to be pretty saturated market and offers “hand-crafted, stone oven-fired” pies. All are one size (11-1/2 inches) and one price ($7.95) — unless you just want red sauce and mozzarella for a buck less. $ L D PIZZA BAR 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 9158113. You will find New York-style pizzas by the slice or the whole pie, appetizers, salads and grinder sandwiches at this replacement for Birracibo. $$ L D hpf PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Old Louisville hipsters have long needed a nearby pizza joint.

Now they have it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies, along with appetizers, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D h f PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9454405, 1701 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-8286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and handtossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. We heartily recommend the barbecue pizza. $$ L D PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D

hpf

SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 589-8686, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 491-3663. Ready for takeout or eat-in, both the downtown storefront and its suburban sister site offer good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D hpf SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D h f SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 412-6205. $$ L D SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has contracted to three locations. All are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ L D h THE CORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he THE POST 1045 Goss Ave., 635-2020. Germantown has long needed a classic New York-style pizza joint, and this spot, in a former VFW post, has provided it. Pizza is available by slice or whole pie, mostly classic tomato sauced varieties, but a few oddities, like the chicken dinner pizza with Buffalo-based sauce, chicken, cheddar, onion and ranch drizzle. Calzones, subs and salads, too.$$ D h p TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. The long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D TOONERVILLE TAVERN 1201 S. First St., 635-6960. The building sits on the corner of Oak and First, but the clever signs direct you down Oak st. to the new entrance. Toonerville Deli has been renamed, and the food focus of the Tavern is pizza, with many of the deli sandwiches also available. $$ L D hp TOPP'T HANDCRAFTED PIZZA 373 Professional Court, New Albany IN, 725-8891, 323 W. Cardinal Blvd., 2901379. This Elizabethtown-based fast-casual pizza and salad concept serves fast-fired (in an 800-degree oven), handcrafted pizzas and made-to-order chopped salads. The thin crust dough is made onsite daily in original, wheat and gluten-free versions. One price regardless of the number of toppings. $$ L D f WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425, 3348 Hikes Ln., 907-5542. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all four of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 63

AMERICAN SMOKEHOUSE STADIUM 5580 Hwy. 62, Jeffersonville IN, 282-6700. This Southern Indiana BBQ joint does the usual stuff – brisket, pulled pork and chicken. But also look for the smoked prime rib, burnt ends, smoked lamb gyros or fried tofu. $ L D hp B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 9513900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ LDf BABIE BAC'Z GOOD GRILL 8533 Terry Rd., 619-1873. This far South End family owned barbecue restaurant smokes up baby back ribs and rib tips, half chickens and wings and several sandwiches, including the Bacz Attack, which combines ham, bacon and pork. $$ L D BABY MAE'S 1817 Graybrook Ln., New Albany IN, 9147040. Barbecue and soul food in the old Mom & Pop’s Cone Corner building. Baby Mae’s reasonably priced menu includes everyone’s comfort foods: ribs, pulled pork, smoked turkey, mac and cheese, home fries and the “grandaddy of chili dogs.” $ L D BIG BEN’S BBQ 600 Quartermaster Center, Jeffersonville IN, 284-4453. This family run BBQ joint is now at the Quartermaster Center, smoking up a storm and impressing locals who recommend Johnnie’s Smokin Ribs, Joecille’s Backbone (brisket tips), Big Ben’s shredded pork sandwich and Alvin’s Wild-Side shredded chicken sandwich. $$ L D f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out

hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ L D f CHECK'S BBQ & BLUES 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2446868. The owners of Germantown’s Checks Café have opened this BBQ joint in Middletown, featuring live blues bands on weekends. Some Check’s Café standards (chicken livers, fried pork chops), along with ribs, pulled pork and brisket, as sandwiches and full dinners comprise the menu. $ L D hpe CITY BARBEQUE 329 Whittington Pkwy., 996-8003. This Ohio-based BBQ chain specializes in brisket, but doesn’t neglect pulled pork (served with slaw on top) and St. Louis ribs. It also smokes turkey breast, chicken and sausage. $$ L Dpfe FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 4932812. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf FDKY BBQ 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 785-4273. The logo shows that “FD” stands for Fire Department — after all, those guys know all about smokin’. Eat dinner in or order a couple of pounds of pulled pork, marinated pulled chicken, brisket or smoked sausage, firehouse chili or Res Q stew and all the required side dishes to go. Ribs on Wednesdays and Friday calls for fried fish. $$ L D f FEAST BBQ 909 E. Market St., 749-9900, 10318 Taylorsville Rd., 749-6534. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue to both NuLu and Jeffersontown. He has formulas for brining times and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

the smoke from overwhelming the meats. $ B

hpf

L D

FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. And where else can you play miniature golf while waiting for the smoker to finish? $ L D hpf GUY FIERI'S SMOKEHOUSE 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 919-7299. The latest creation of the Food TV’s bad boy chef caused some serious musing about the meaning of “celebrity” chefs to local eating. But see the hoopla for yourself, and try some of the fried chicken brined in pickle juice, brisket with pomegranate, sorghum-glazed pork chops or Triple Crown grilled cheese sandwich. $$ L D hpf HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D HOLY SMOKES BAR-B-QUE 7508 Preston Hwy., 9685657. The former Bootleg Bar-B-Q franchise on Preston Hwy. has become Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que. Owner Mark Weatherholt smokes his wings for three hours, his ribs and chicken for five, and his pork lingers overnight. He does brown sugar wings, too. $ L D JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. Bouncing back from a fire a couple of years ago, Jimbo’s has begun smoking again in the South End, across from Iroquois Park. All the usual, but for a quick lunch, try the BBQstuffed baked potato. $ L D f

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 63


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 64

JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texasstyle barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f

RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D

LOUIE’S HOT CHICKEN & BARBECUE 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 709-4274. The chicken here ranges through 4 levels of heat, the hottest using the notorious ghost pepper. BBQ choices include pulled pork and brisket and smoked wings. Outside, there are picnic tables, inside, a custom bar with Bourbon barrel lid stools. $ L Df

RUBBIN’ BUTTS BBQ 8007 Highway 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-7266. Up the road a ways you will find this “traditional” BBQ joint with some house specialties not so traditional: smoked deviled eggs, BBQ pork queso and their signature, the BBQ hog-a-chonga, a flour shell stuffed with baked beans, cheese, and pulled pork, then deep fried and smothered in queso and BBQ sauce. $ L D

MACK BROS BBQ 2700 Rockford Ln., 384-4590. This family owned and operated restaurant serves ribs, rib tips, chicken and sides, including a fan favorite: cornbread salad. $$ L D MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 2851998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked takehome turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D hpf MARK T'S SLAB HOUSE 4912 Preston Hwy., 962-1069. That would be slabs of ribs, of course, a wonderfully direct name for a barbecue restaurant. Several drum-style smokers out front exude a savory cloud, attesting MARTIN'S BAR-B-QUE JOINT 3408 Indian Lake Dr., 242-4666, 984 Barret Ave., 242-0020. Pretty famous in Tennessee, Martin’s has 2 locations where Louisvillians can now savor the meats smoked in the open pit (the whole hogs take 24 hours). All dishes, meats and sides and even sauces are made in-house daily. For a different kind of treat, try the smoked turkey sandwich. $$ L D

hpfe

SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 4917570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fast-food chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sportsbar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D

hp

THE WRIGHT HOUSE BBQ + EATERY 638 Providence Way, Clarsville IN, 656-0941. Dalephonia and LaFond Wright have taken over the space that had been Shawn's BBQ. Dale makes the sides while LaFond prepares the baked chicken, pulled pork and chicken, burgers, smoked sausage, pork chops and meatloaf, carrying on the cooking lessons learned from their grandmothers. $ LD

pf

MISSION BBQ 4607 Shelbyville Rd., 206-3331, 1213 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 269-3860. The National Anthem is played every day at noon at this Baltimorebased chain, which makes a point of supporting soldiers, firefighters, police officers and other first responders. Look for Texas-inspired brisket, smoked turkey, pulled chicken and pork, and even smoked salmon. There are also ribs, of course, sandwiches and scratch-made sides. $$ L D pf MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 290-7998. The St. Matthews spot garnered so many barbecue fans that a second outlet opened in the East End for the overflow. Knot on your bib for Kansas City-style smoked pork and beef ribs (a house specialty), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. Momma's “2% for Louisville” program steadily donates 2% of earnings to local charities. $$ D f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f PORKLAND BBQ 2519 St. Cecilia St., 890-5988. Created by the non-profit group, Love City, Porkland BBQ’s proceeds benefit community programs for youth and aspiring entrepreneurs. Look for pulled pork and pulled chicken sandwiches, fried fish, rib tips, side items and desserts. A Portland specialty, smoked bologna sandwiches, too. $ L D RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 11-6 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by the sandwich or by the pound. $ L D

64 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. The dining and drinks complex on the corner of Third and Main offers something for everyone. This is the deli component (the others are an ice cream shop and a Bourbon bar), which strives to blend the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South. Lunch on nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $ L D f ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. This venerable lunch spot has been recharging the energies of downtown workers for over four decades. Brian Goodwin, son of the late founder and owner, has brightened and modernized the space, and overhauled the menu, looking forward to decades more of lunchtime service. $ L BARRY’S CHEESESTEAKS & MORE 7502 Preston Hwy., 883-2874, 1161 S. Second St., 618-2288. Barry’s version of the classic Philly street food has been getting raves from self-anointed cheesesteak mavens, who approve of his meat, bread and the cheese sauce choices. He now has a second, larger space in Old Louisville. $ L D BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1158. The bagel/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a wellstocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f

CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L CHICAGO STEAK & LEMONADE 4501 Cane Run Rd., 384-4291, 2124 W. Broadway, 450-5300, 5049 Poplar Level Rd., 966-6940. This local mini-chain serves a variety of Philly cheese steaks, gyros, lemon-pepper fish dinners and wings. The lemonade comes in a passel of different flavor combos. $ L D h DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102-1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L DOWNTOWNER DELI 428 W. Market St., 822-3572. This popular Madison, Indiana business has opened a second outlet in Louisville, adding another choice for the working lunch crowd. The soups, salads, sandwiches and wraps have quickly made fans by touting both savory tastes and worth-it portions. $ L f FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3473, 4905 Outer Loop, 749-4257, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 883-4168. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRANK'S MEAT & PRODUCE 3342 Preston Hwy., 3633989. Frank’s has been around a long time, treating those in the know to piled-high deli sandwiches for prices so reasonable it might seem you stepped into a time warp. There are steaks and chops and produce and other groceries, but it is best known for lunchtime service, where the long lines move fast, and the constant turnover ensures freshness of sandwiches and soups. $ L D GALAN'S MEAT MARKET & DELI 2801 W. Market St., 614-8514. This old-school butcher shop also offers piled-high deli sandwiches and sides such as German potato salad or sour cream macaroni and cheese salad. Eat-in at the handful of small tables or take away. $$ B L D HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D f JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that include cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (11 Locations) This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LADY TRON’S 147 E. Market St., New Albany, IN 7259510. You won’t recognize the former Little Chef

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 65

building, which is where new owner Summer Seig has created an eclectic, sci-fi theme for her soup and sandwich diner. Outside is Lady Tron, a smiling robot with red hair and a yellow apron; inside, you can find seasonal soups and sandwiches. $ B L D LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago style hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a fare price. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This family-owned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 32 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand three-deep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-2700. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $L MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5610024. $ B L MCALISTER’S DELI (9 Locations) Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 4581668, 110 W. Chewtnut St. (U fo L Med Center) 2132409. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, handmade deli fare at both the Highlands and downtown locations. $ L

downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D PRIMO’S DELICATESSEN 153 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-0491. It’s just what New Albany needed, a little New York style to give East Coast pizzazz to the downtown dining choices. Serving breakfast and lunch, so look for bagels and a schmear, and meaty sandwiches piled high. $ Br L QUIZNO’S SUBS 223 S. Fifth St., 589-5520, 11803 Shelbyville Rd., 253-5833, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7849, 220 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-1419. Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L f ROADRUNNER KITCHEN 37 Bank St. New Albany IN, 924-7024. Stacie Bale, who operated Earth Friends Café, has opened this healthful, grab-and-go lunch spot that offers garden and spinach salads, wraps, falafel, power smoothies, espressos and fresh juices. $ L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 425-8447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SEEDS AND GREENS NATURAL MARKET & DELI 207 W. First St., New Albany IN, 944-3800. Browse among the organic vegetables and health foods, and stop by the deli for soups and salads, hot and cold sandwiches, vegan, vegetarian and omnivore preparations. $ L D SOUPY’S 3027 Hunsinger Ln., 451-5325. Back in 1987, Danny Bowling’s mother-in-law, Bette, started making

pots of soup in a corner of Bowling's Meats & Deli, a family courtesy that led in 1995 to Soupy’s. Now it’s about 2 million cups of soup later, by Soupy’s estimate, all using Bette’s recipes, cooked up in small batches daily. Salads, sandwiches (including veggie burgers) and sweets as well. $ L D STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing menu. $ L D SWEET PEACHES 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 3560232. Breakfast, sandwiches and soups are what you will find at this West End spot. And don’t overlook fresh baked goodies like brownies and cookies or the chance to wash them down with peach-flavored sweet tea. This also is the location of the monthly Sweet Peaches Poetry Slam. $ B L D SWEET PEACHES 2 ROLL 2900 W. Broadway (Nia Center). Pam Haines, owner of the popular West Louisville restaurant Sweet Peaches, has opened a quickservice version inside the Nia Center — a meeting place for the neighborhood and a city-organized workforce development center. Patrons and neighbors can meet in the lobby and enjoy coffee, sandwiches, salads and fresh pastries. $ B L THE BLOCK GOURMET DELI 14041 Shelbyville Rd., 785-4689. A husband and wife team with considerable experience in restaurants runs this Middletown deli.

NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L PANERA BREAD CO. (10 Locations) Warm breads finishbaked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $BLDf PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PAYNE STREET BAKEHOUSE 225 S. Spring St., 8958323. Nancy’s Bagel Grounds has remodeled the space that had been Willingers Beer Depot after moving from its longtime digs on Frankfort Ave. Despite the name change, you can still get bagels and cream cheese with your coffee or juices as well as a breakfast sandwich called The Willinger. Lunch, too. $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616, 9018 Taylorsville Rd., 290-4820. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 65


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 66

Fans report excellent thick sandwiches, fresh salads and homemade soups. Box lunches and catering also available. $$ L D THELMA’S DELI 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 5895200. Located in the glassed-in walkway (conservatory) between the two hotel towers, Thelma’s provides breakfast items, coffee, sandwiches and snacks 24/7 for Galt House guests and anyone else who needs, say, a pizza at 3 a.m. $$ B L D h TOP ROUND ROAST BEEF 4214 Shelbyville Rd. Billy Rapaport, a freelance TV and film producer known best for his coverage of the Kentucky Derby and Breeders’ Cup for NBC, is the first franchisee of Top Round Roast Beef, a Los Angeles fast-casual restaurant that he loves. The menu includes seven beef sandwiches, with the meat slow-roasted for 12 hours in CVap ovens. Other choices are hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, salads and sides, shakes and frozen custard. VINAIGRETTE SALAD KITCHEN 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 205-9933. This Lexington-based modestly upscale salad restaurant offers locally sourced soups and salads and fresh lemonade. The menu includes the Bluegrass Blackberry salad; shrimp, chicken taco and maki shrimp salads; and soups such as creamy tomato and sausage, kale and potato. Be sure to try one of three fresh lemonades on offer daily. $$ L D WHICH WICH? 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 290-3721. The concept here is “create your own sandwich” and draws on 50 toppings choices including sauerkraut, candied walnuts, crispy onion strings and Cheese Whiz. Savor a selection from the house's choices like Thank You Turkey, Sriracha Tuna and the inevitable Elvis Wich, with peanut butter, bacon and bananas. $$ B L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

ANGIE'S HOME COOKING FAMILY RESTAURANT 2622 W. Broadway, 450-6200. Chef/owner Angie Bishop cooks the kind of familiar family meals that haunt your childhood — things like smothered pork chops, candied yams and corn pudding. Daily specials offer a choice of meat and two sides for under $10. Banana pudding is always a dessert choice. $ B L D BELLA’S DINER 4106 Taylor Blvd., 749-1771. $ L D BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $BLDh BURGER GIRL 3334 Frankfort Ave. Dan Borsch, who owns the Old Louisville Tavern, Toonerville Tavern, Old Louisville Pizza Company and Burger Boy Diner, is expanding into Crescent Hill. Burger Girl, in the former Bluegrass Burgers space, is a 24-hour burger grill, the sister to long-time somnambulists’ favorite Burger Boy. $$ B L D hf CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The open-faced roast beef sandwich, with mashed potatoes and brussels sprouts, is a F&D favorite. $ L D

pf

66 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 244-9497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ LD D. NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. The nostalgia here is too strong for this iconic spot to fade away. For the second time in nine months, D. Nalley’s has been rescued from oblivion. The interior has been upgraded, but changed as little as possible. The food offerings continue to be diner standards, like what was served when it first opened 50+ years ago. $ B L D

THE COZY KITCHEN 1554 Bardstown Rd., 451-0024. This little take-out spot in the Highlands offers familiar, home-cooked style meals with a rotating menu. Among the choices, depending on the day, are chicken and dumplings, red chili, mac and cheese, pot roast, butternut squash soup. Dinners come with 2 sides. $ L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $ B L

DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D EXECUTIVE BISTRO 1930 Bishop Ln. (Watterson Towers) 365-2848. This bright little spot provides grilled sandwiches, soups, salads and snacks to office workers in Watterson Towers. $ B L FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ LDp FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 883-1462. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D GERALDINE’S KITCHEN 402 Wall St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7707. Geraldine is the late mother of owner/chef Bob Hoyland; Geraldine’s Kitchen is a tribute to her sense of hospitality. Breakfast and lunch are served in an inviting, homey atmosphere. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D LIL' WAGNERS 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. A sit-down restaurant when you need a break from betting. Burgers and sandwiches (including fried bologna), starters like nachos, fried pickles and crab cakes, and soups and salads. Also a grab-and-go menu of wraps, sandwiches and desserts. $ LDh HOSANNA'S KITCHEN 139 S. 44th St., 778-0085. This far West End soul food place has emblematic southern comfort food: fried or baked chicken, fried fish, salmon croquettes, pork chops in gravy, long-cooked green beans, pinto beans, cabbage and baked apples. $ L D METRO DINER 4901 Outer Loop, 357-0767. The first local outlet of this Florida-based chain features "classic comfort food with flair.” Harking back to the glory days of diners, Metro Diner offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus all day long. Signature dish is fried chicken and waffles, with burgers, seafood and salads also available. $$ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp SANDI'S KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-4823. Good ol' southern hospitality and home-made food are the draws at this modest place in the far southwest of the city. The menu includes chicken-fried steak, meatloaf, and liver and onions. $ B L D

BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D BOOK & BOURBON SOUTHERN KITCHEN 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). This library-themed concept at this upscale, airport dining venue offers more than 100 bourbons, along with a classic craft cocktail list. The food menu tweaks Southern comfort food with items such as fried green tomato Benedict and short rib hush puppies. $$ B L D hp DAISY MAE’S 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 944-8101. Daisy Mae’s offers southern food and hospitality. The menu includes fried chicken and cod, meatloaf, mashed potatoes, collards and pinto bean soup every day. Look for daily specials that include a regularly rotating fruit cobbler and red velvet cake. $ L D f DASHA BARBOUR’S SOUTHERN BISTRO 2217 Steier Ln., 882-2081. This Buechel place certainly gives the “bistro” concept a down-home Southern twist. Fried chicken and fish, a vegetable plate with three sides choices, burgers, pork chop sandwich, and chicken wings. Sides include sweet potato casserole studded with pecans, fried corn on the cob and collard greens. $$ L D FLO'S HOUSE OF SOUL 3400 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 966-2213. You order at the window and eat on the patio, which has heaters for cooler weather and TVs for watching big games. Owner Jason Hatcher tries to do good for his community, offering food rewards to kids with good report cards. Choices include burgers, chili dogs, Philly cheese steaks, whiting and catfish sandwiches, nachos and ice cream confections. $$ Br D

hpf

FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D LUCRETIA’S KITCHEN 1812 West Muhammad Ali Blvd. (Chef Space), 294-8143. It’s Wing Wednesday, Rib Tip Thursday, Fried Fish Friday and Soul Food Sunday at this ambitious little startup operating in the business incubator in the near West End. $$ Br L MAMAS KITCHEN CARRYOUT 603 N. 26th St., 5655760. This little West End order-at-the-window place

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 67

serves up sandwiches, snacks (with 1 side), dinners (with 2) – things like hot dogs, pulled pork and chicken, meatloaf, smothered pork chops and fried chicken and fish on Fridays. $ L D MISS ADA’S 510 E. Chestnut St., 561-3762. $ L SCENE 501 W. Main St. Scene is the latest dining venture in the space at the Kentucky Center for the Arts that has seen a lot of things come and go. Open before shows for drinks and small plate dining served in the fast-casual style. Flatbreads, burgers, pasta dishes, crab cakes; a small but good wine and beer selection and a full bar. $$ D hp SHINE'S DINER 3400 W. Market St., 510-9310. This West End independent restaurant, selling soul food, seafood, burgers and wings and Philly cheesesteak fries (topped with steak, green onions, green peppers, mozzarella and cheddar cheese), pays tribute to the late brother of owner Mary Jenefor, who said that it was always her brother’s dream to open a restaurant. Jenefor plans to occasionally give free meals to those in need in the community. $ L D SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D SOUL FOOD DINING 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 915-8239. A cafeteria-style restaurant that offers all that a soul food fan would want: BBQ chicken, meatloaf, ribs, pork chops (with or without gravy), catfish, buffalo, and whiting, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, greens, green beans, sweet potatoes and slaw. $$ L D SOUTHERN EXPRESS 418 W. Oak St., 963-1719. This well-known West End carryout spot has moved into a sit-down location in Old Louisville. There, classic soul food is served for eat-in or takeout and at rock-bottom prices. Diners build their own meal at $1 per item. Choices vary daily, but look for fried chicken, cooked cabbage, fried whiting, pork roast, fried or smothered pork chops, mac and cheese and rib tips. $ L D f

build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 5362 Dixie Hwy., 4476660, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f

B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Center), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp BARRELHOUSE ON MARKET 1005 W. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-6373. Andrew and Michelle Collins renovated down-to-the-heels dive bar into a spiffy lively drinking establishment and music venue with a small, tasty menu: a slider assortment, buffalo and BBQ wings, pretzels and queso. $$ D hpfe BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a satisfying place to dine. The BBQ comes as pulled chicken, pork and brisket in sandwiches or full dinners. $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St.,

637-3737, 11324 Preston Hwy., 969-5559, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D h f BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D

hpf

BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 9900 Linn Station Rd., 326-9830, 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his two sports pubs, the area’s official homes for Cincinnati Bengals fans. $ L D hpfe BUBBA'S 33 4631 Medical Plaza Way, Clarksville IN, 2845933. The 12th location of the growing chain from the guys at Texas Roadhouse, Bubba’s is a family friendly sports bar with TVs galore and corn hole boards on the patio. The menu offers chicken with two types of bacon, chili-rubbed salmon, smoked chipotle wings, a spicy habanero burger and pizzas. $$ D p BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. This spiffed up Shively outpost offers honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe

SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY 3402 W. Broadway, 8221474. A family sports bar that satisfies all ages with its homey atmosphere and its well-crafted familiar food like double cheeseburgers, fried chicken with hot water cornbread, catfish, wings and ribs. $ L D hp SUE'S TOUCH OF COUNTRY 2605 Rockford Ln., 4505059. Sue’s provides Shively with the kind of “stick to your ribs” food you go to a country/family style restaurant for. Daily Specials, homemade desserts and breakfast served all day. $ B L D V-GRITS 1025 Barret Ave., 742-1714. Vegan food truck VGrits has settling down in the former Monkey Wrench corner and is cooperating there with False Idol Brewers. V-Grits co-owner Kristina Addington defines her menu as “southern comfort food, stick to your ribs, healthy junk food.” $$ L D hpf WAYLON'S FEED AND FIREWATER 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 873-5580. Tony Palombino has converted his St. Matthews BoomBozz pizzeria into a honky-tonk that features live music at least three times per week, Southern food and a full bar with lots of Bourbon choices. The menu borrows from Palombino’s downtown honky-tonk, Merle’s Whiskey Kitchen, including its tacos. The bar carries over 100 Bourbons and local craft beers. $$ Br L Dhpfe

CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 67


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 68

THE BUTCHERTOWN SOCIAL 1601 Story Ave., 8903892. Entrepreneur Isaiah Hoagland, who now owns the site that used to be Louis’s The Ton, has renovated it minimally, added a small kitchen, and now serves tacos, sandwiches and a few sides. These additions make the neighborhood bar ambiance even more appealing. $ D

hpf

DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. $ L D hpfe DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has two local outlets that offer twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf DUNDEE TAVERN 2224 Dundee Rd., 458-6637. After a few flips and changes, Dundee Tavern has found its soul again as a neighborhood bar. A lot of beer choices on draft and in bottles, and a comfort food menu that includes wings and fingers, fried pickles, chili, burgers and sandwiches and Tavern Specialties like grilled flat iron stead and southern-fried cod. $$ L D hp FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FORT KNOCKERS MESS HALL 5501 Valley Station Rd., 890-3585. This bar and grill in the far Southwest corner of the city has a rousing military theme, including murals of local veterans donated by community members. Basic bar food, but done with care. Beer specials during football games and a patio with cornhole and other bar games. $$ L D hpf GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf GRIFF’S 133 W. Liberty St., 939-3535. Griff, of course, is U of L b-ball great Darrell Griffith (Dr. Dunkenstein), who has transformed the former Hurricane O’Malley’s location into an upscale sports bar and late-night party place. The menu offers Southern food and burgers, including the “Fast Break” burger served between homemade sweet potato waffles. $$ L D hpf GROWLER USA 3010 Gottbrath Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 748-2622. This expanding franchise operation offers local and regional craft beers, draught wines (served out of the barrel), hard ciders and kombucha. Let their cicerone lead you to beverage pairings with their familiar, hearty pub menu – lots of burgers, beer cheese soup, salads and sandwiches, and a limited entree selection. $$$ L D hpf GYPSY’S SPORTS GRILLE 7207 Fegenbush Ln., 9090922. “Gypsy” is the name of the owner’s rescued Boston terrier. The husband-wife team who own this Fern Creek hangout offer all that a sports fan could want: wings and 68 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

ribs, nachos, potato skins, fried pickles, sandwiches, pork chops and steaks. $$ L D hpfe HELL OR HIGH WATER 112 W. Washington St., 5873057. The entrance is through Hello Curio, an ostensible arts and crafts gallery. Downstairs is the main bar in a two-story library with a mezzanine floor, looking out onto a small live entertainment area. Craft cocktails are bourbon-focused but not exclusively. There is a small bites menu, but drinks are the center of the “speakeasy” experience. $$ D hpe HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but owner Tommy Clemons’ menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty or the French toast sausage. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have settled in at this prime Clifton location. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 239-4724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot HOPCAT 1064 Bardstown Rd., 890-8676. This Highlands attraction seats up to 300 in the dining room, three private party rooms and a covered second floor patio. HopCat touts its 132 craft beers on tap, at least 30 of which are locally made, as the largest selection in Kentucky. Lunch and dinner offers homemade pub grub: burgers, mac & cheese, Detroit-style square pizza with cheesy crust, and signature “crack fries.” Saturday and Sunday brunch as well. $$ Br L D hpf J-TOWN BEACH 10315 Watterson Trl., 558-0881. This family fun sports complex offers sand volleyball leagues and also offers Quills coffee and Comfy Cow ice cream. $ L D hpfe JB’S PUB 307 Central Ave., 618-1843. Two veterans of the Troll Pub Under the Bridge, Ben Barker and Johnny Morgan, have taken over the space near Churchill Downs recently vacated by OverTime Sports Bar & Grill. Some considerable renovating has been done, and the menu offers “pub fare with flair.” Look for several artisan burgers, 30 beers on tap and many styles of pizza — Sicilian, Chicago-style, New York and Detroit-style, and even their own Louisville-style pie. $$ L D hpf JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf

some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 9458915. A friendly tavern up in the Knobs above New Albany. $ L D p NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe NIRVANA 1047 Bardstown Rd., 712-0813. Nirvana has become a Highlands entertainment destination with live shows most nights. Darnell Ferguson, of Super Chefs, has taken over the kitchen, so look for his takes on the eclectic menu: bang bang cauliflower, bougie fries, dog bone wings and the McNasty sandwich. $$ L D hpe OLD HICKORY INN 1038 Lydia St., 634-3011. The Schnitzelburg building has been around forever, has suffered indignities, like a fire that gutted it, but has always bounced back. Now it has expanded its presence with a new kitchen, outdoor deck and a food menu aimed to be competitive with other Germantown hangouts. $ L D hp OLD LOUISVILLE TAVERN 1532 S. Fourth St., 6374200. It’s risen from the ashes, the interior gutted and redone, a new kitchen installed, but the menu is the same as before: top-flight bar grub made from scratch. An expanded beer program with 16 new taps includes a selection of local and craft beers. $$ L D hpf O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the minifootballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp PEARL STREET TAPHOUSE 407 Pearl Street, Jeffersonville IN, 285-0890. Located in an historic home that was saved through a preservation grant, this pub has 24 taps with a heavy focus on local breweries, with regional and national choices as well. Food choices range from pizzas to bacon-wrapped dates to corned beef grilled cheese sandwiches. Everything is fresh and nothing is deep-fried. $ L D p f PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D h p

JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D

PINTS & UNION 114 E. Market St., New Albany IN., 913-4647. Beer maven (and F&D contributor) Roger Baylor and partner Joe Phillips have renovated an old neighborhood bar, where the taps dispense familiar quality beers and ales, the bar crafts interesting cocktails and the bottled beer selection skews toward Belgian ales. The small kitchen offers pub-inspired small plates with an Indian accent. $ L D hp

KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern, a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978, offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and soups. The hamburgers, though, might be the best unpretentious burgers in town: freshly ground daily, always cooked perfectly, and served on a toasted bun. $ L D pf

PORCH KITCHEN & BAR 280 W. Jefferson St. (Marriott), 671-4246. As part of the recent renovation of the Marriott, this all-day restaurant replaces Champions Sports Grill. The name reflects the intention of the new restaurant to be a homey, welcoming downtown spot. Look for American-style comfort foods and a friendly bar. B Br L D hpfe

KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including

RECBAR 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 509-3033. Family fun is the object here, with games galore: pool and ping-pong,

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 69

skeeball, arcade games (for Nintendo, Sega Genesis, Super NES) and card and board games. A full bar and pub-style food, too. $$ L D hp RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, half-pint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D

hpf

SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D

hpfe

SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D

hpf

THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 5846630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp SULLIVAN’S TAP HOUSE 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 2102388. John Sullivan, Matt Taylor and Breno Giacomino, previously involved in the now-closed Sully's Saloon at 4th Street Live, have taken over the former Bluegrass Brewing Co. space in St. Matthews. Sullivan's offers a gastropub-style menu created by Chef Steven Dunn. You’ll find reasonably priced cheeseburgers, hot brown sliders and fried catfish served alongside 20-plus craft beers and signature cocktails within sight of lots of TVs. $$ L D hpfe TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 588-8888. This spacious sports bar adds to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. $$ D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf THE EARL 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-2611. Formerly the Comfy Cow outlet in Southern Indiana, The Earl is now a bar offering craft cocktails and upscale bar food such as spicy pimento cheese with pretzel bread, cheese and charcuterie boards, and roasted cauliflower with bleu cheese. $$ D hp

THE GOAT 700 Landis Ridge Dr., 437-3000. Ohio-based LC Lifestyle Communities operates this small chain of unusually named upscale-casual restaurants. Enjoy Italian pizza rolls, stuffed potatoes, salads, “doublegrind” burgers, wings, pizza, wraps and craft beer on the expansive deck or around the community pool, or join one of the competitive leagues in euchre, corn hole or volleyball. $$ L D hpfe THE LIBRARY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 3136664. By day, the Library serves coffee, lattes and tea along with freshly baked pastries. By late afternoon, it morphs into a bourbon bar with locally inspired cocktails. $ B L hp THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 9130169. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe THE PEARL 1151 Goss Ave., 996-7552. The Pearl aims to be a classic neighborhood pub (not unlike Pauly’s, which it replaces). It also aims to be a spirits-focused hangout, with a bar menu limited to snacks like pickled eggs, country ham and cheese sandwiches and free popcorn or roasted nuts. In the works is a permanent food truck to be parked in the rear to expand food offerings. $$ L D

hpf

THE PLANET BAR 2232 Bardstown Rd.,888-7464. This sassy and stylish bar has moved down B’town Rd. a bit from its original location, continuing its reputation for friendly bartenders, good live music and stellar karaoke. $$ D hp fe THE WATER COMPANY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. There is a 3rd-floor rooftop pool at the new Omni Hotel, and this is the bar that goes with it, also offering seasonally-inspired light bites. $$ L D p f TIM TAM TAVERN 1022 Clarks Ln., 883-0101. Named for the 1958 Kentucky Derby winner, the Schnitzelburg/ Audubon neighborhood bar has a new look and a kitchen that serves bar staples like burgers, fried pickles and cheese curds plus pizza from Danny Mac’s Pizza. (Dan McMahon, owner of Danny Mac’s Pizza, is a partner.) $ L D p fe TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashville-based chain in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf VIS A VIS BAR & GRILL 1164 S. Third St., 654-7057. Replacing Barasti Bat & Grill, Vis a Vis, offers a Mediterranean and American menu. New owner Mike Al Muhtaseb and his wife Dima Radwan, who is the chef, serve up hummus, falafel, fried halloumi cheese, burgers, shawarma, kebabs and salads. $$ L D pfe ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage pinball and electronic games, and the Beer Can Collection is as long as your arm. The chow is high-quality bar grub — things like wings, fried egg rolls, pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and the Death Star cookie, baked in a skillet and topped with ice cream. And top-flight live music late into the night. $ L D hpfe

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 69


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 70

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 5150174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run this brewery in Butchertown, dedicated to fresh craft beer in a space that heats with solar, recycles and reuses materials and grains. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire still brews and serves fine craft beer here, but now Earth Friends Café runs the kitchen, serving breakfast and lunches with a vegan and vegetarian emphasis — and some chicken dishes for those who must. $$ L D pf

salbutes or tacos. Brunch on Sunday is provided by Commonwealth Cure with items like pork hash, Scotch eggs, or pork sliders. Plus, a full brunch drink selection. $ Br L D hpfe MONNIK BEER CO. 1036 E. Burnett Ave., 742-6564. The gastropub style menu includes a range of Euro-inspired pub food like three kinds of double-fried fries, fried smelts, a ploughman’s plate, pork and black currant pie, sauerbraten, and burgers. The beer menu adds changing guest brews to the house menu of Mild George and King George (British style brown ales), His Dark materials (a stout) and Hauck’s American pilsner. $$ L D hpfe RED YETI BREWING CO. 256 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-5788. This craft brewery has an ambitious kitchen touting food so fresh in concept, they have no freezer. The brisket sandwich comes with house-made chips, the pork ribs are braised in wheat ale, and desserts include funnel cake with chocolate dipping fondue and a beer float:-vanilla ice cream in your choice of porter or stout. $$ L D hp

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 300 W. Main St., 562-0007, 660 S. Fourth St., 899-7070. BBC has reopened its Theater Square outlet, right in front of the Kindred expansion, which displaced the former restaurant/beer pub. The Main St. location does the brewing, and upstairs boasts a Bourbon lounge. At both locations, the food is as good as the beer, and that says a lot. $$ L D hpfe

DAVE & BUSTER'S 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews), 963-0940. Fun galore with arcade, billiards, sports TVs, and a 16 page menu with surprising options for every special diet like flavorful lettuce wraps, the Impossible Burger and full entrees like steaks or salmon plus expected bar fare: nachos, sliders and wings. Desserts, beers and festive cocktails of impressive size, too. $$ L D hp

CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 458-8727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the oldfashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality hand-crafted artisan beers. $ L D hf

DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinnertheater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$ L D

DONUM DEI BREWERY 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 541-2950. Owner Rick Otey maintains that beer is a gift from god, hence the name of his craft brewery. The interior is starkly Scandinavian modern. The limited menu offers hummus and a cheese plate, soup and several paninis. $ L D h FLAT 12 BIERWERKS 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3219. Flat 12 has the fermenters, barrels and other technical accouterments right out front, producing five house beers, four seasonal brews and some select beers for special events. You can see it all getting kegged or bottled, too, as you sample. An outlet of Urban Bread Co. operates the kitchen and supplies the food. $ Br L D fe FLOYD COUNTY BREWING CO. 129 W. Main St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Walk in this new brewpub and you will find what looks like a medieval banquet hall, but scaled down to a Yorkshire public house. Brewer Jeff Coe’s repertoire includes Braun Jovi (Brown Ale), Hefe’ns Gate Hefeweizen and Vlad’s India Pale Ale, which complement perfectly menu items like fish and chips and oversized turkey legs. $ L D h GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottom-fermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pub-grub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf GRAVELY BREWING CO. 514 Baxter Ave., 822-3202. Gravely offers 14 draft choices, all brewed and served on site. The brewery partners with Mayan Street Food, run by The Mayan Café. Walk up to the truck and order snacks like guacamole fried plantains, Mexican corn, 70 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

pe

HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s wellmade, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MAIN EVENT BAR & GRILL 12500 Sycamore Station Pl., 240-5555. This Dallas-based chain offers plenty of fun: bowling, laser tag, a high ropes course, billiards, video games — along with pizzas, sandwiches, full dinners and a full bar. $$ L D hp MESA 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 725-7691. Mesa calls itself a “collaborative kitchen-classroom,” in which local established and aspiring chefs offer cooking demonstrations and food prep advice for a small audience, who will then eat what the chefs prepare before them. There is also a boutique selling high-end cookware and food products. $$ D p MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p PIN + PROOF 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The Omni’s bar has a cool angle. There are four bowling lanes, as well as hors d’oeuvres to enjoy in the “the opulent and mysterious atmosphere." $ D hp

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. The second floor theater continues to be a top local venue for all sorts of theater, improv and silly/hilarious roasts of toys (Barbie), computer game characters (Mario) and years (2017). Downstairs, the menu offers Shakespeare-themed items such as Iambic Pork-tameter, Sir Francis BBQ Bacon Burger and The Steakspeare. $$ D hpfe

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h AFRICA HOUSE LOUNGE & CAFÉ 2816 Crums Ln., 384-7240. West African and Jamaican cuisine, a full service bar and Reggae and Afrobeats on the sound track. The unique taste here is the Ghanaian shito sauce, a complex hot and tangy condiment. $ L D h BARAKA RESTAURANT 519 W. Oak St., 822-3046. This all-halal restaurant serves African, Asian and Indian dishes. At the counter you pick a meat and choose an accompaniment of rice, bread or noodles. The fish curry with chapati and chicken saqaar with rice are good examples. Goat is often available for those who want to try something different. $ L D FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. $$ L D IMANKA RESTAURANT 737 S. Eighth St., (International Mall) 210-7503. Somali immigrant entrepreneur Mohamed Abbi Abdalla and his family serve their native cuisine at the International Mall. Suggested dishes include chicken suqaar (a chicken stew-like dish) or goat seasoned with onions and green peppers. $$ L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

888 GREAT WALL 9464 Brownsboro Rd., 425-2811. Strip mall Chinese food is an accurate description of what to expect here. Locals from the neighborhood have said good things about the garlic chicken and their crab Rangoon. $ L D A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes this

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 71

buffet a good choice among the many of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN WOK 2235 Frankfort Ave., 822-3285. This panAsian spot offers a very large selection of Chinese & Japanese dishes in the stir-fried, hibachi-grilled and sushi categories. A lot of familiar things — Kung Pao chicken, pepper steak with onion, veggie fried rice, rainbow roll, hibachi steak, and so on. $$ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, long known for his passion for fusing Asian culinary traditions. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BISTRO 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222, 9246 Westport Rd., 425-1818. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA CHEF 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 384-5322. Pretty standard Chinese choices can be found at this new store in the South End. Eat in or carry out. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D CHINA DRAGON 8507 Terry Rd., 995-9897. The far southwest corner of the city can get its Chinese table hot food fix here. $ L D h CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500, 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINA STAR 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 896-1818. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. Fans of this somewhat funky Chinese place post positive notices about the quality of its food. No strange Asian dishes here, just familiar Chinese hot table fare that Americans recognize. $ L D CHUNG KING PALACE 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. Every neighborhood seems to need a Chinese steam table outlet serving up Asian dishes familiar to Americans. Double Dragon does that job for its neighborhoods. $ L D

DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3135 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2675353.$LD DRAGON CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-1885. This Prospect-area Chinese restaurants offers many familiar dishes. East End fans say the service is quick and the food above-average tasty. $ L D EAST STAR BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588, 6413 Greenwood Rd., 935-6611. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LD h GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h THE GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ LD GREAT WALL 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of wordof-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI BUFFET 5372 Dixie Hwy., 449-8688. This far South Louisville Asian buffet gets strong positives from locals who appreciate its cleanliness, its range of choices (including hibachi grilled meats to order and sushi) and a buffet bar that is kept freshly loaded. $ L D p HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 4918228, 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 367-8828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check out the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace offers familiar Chinese food choices, as well as a long list of Chef’s Specials, with names in Chinese characters as well as English (a sure sign you are in for authentic Chinese fare). Dim sum is offered daily, but on weekends it is served from a traditional rolling cart. $$ Br L D hp JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. Like many Chinese restaurants, Jasmine is in a strip mall, but this is not just another hot table stir fry joint. There is an American menu, but those in the know will ask for the 14-page Szechuan menu, featuring such interesting things as pig ear in sesame oil, hot and spicy intestines, spicy diced rabbit foot, frog legs, beef maw and tendon Szechuan style — one of the most popular choices, the manager said. $ L D p

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

THE JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070, 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 618-1601. This fine Asian restaurant across from Mid-City Mall has opened a suburhan site too. Both serve familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as authentic Taiwanese offerings. Duck dishes are cooked in three different styles — Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing. $$ L D hpf JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a largerthan-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h L & J ASIAN CUISINE 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., 2288399. This Pan-Asian spot in the Kroger-anchored strip center at Hwy. 42 near River Rd. offers a large familiar Chinese selection that also includes Vietnamese, Thai and Japanese dishes, and a good vegetarian selection. $$ LDf LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f ORIENTAL CAFÉ 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this long-standing St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional ChineseAmerican and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D

p

ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINA 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN 288-0774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-8430, 13311 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3980, 10600 Westport Rd., 425-1678. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have four. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D PEKING CITY EXPRESS 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 8910388. A lot of familiar items on the menu here, but those in the know ask for a Chinese menu, and order the dumplings or the xiao long bao (steam bun with meat filling). Dishes are handsomely presented, and servings are large. $$ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D RICE BOX 6810 Southside Dr., 380-2209. This typical Chinese hot table provides South End residents with the kind of Chinese food you would expect at budget prices. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019

71


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 72

Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D

of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D

TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sit-down Chinese restaurant has a large and eclectic menu, with lots of spicy dishes and daily double shot specials at the inviting bar. Now offering delivery to Norton Commons and adjacent suburbia. $$ L D hp

HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651, 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. A second location takes over the downtown space from the former Caviar. $$$ L D hp

WEI WEI CHINESE EXPRESS 526 S. Fifth St., 889-0827. $LD YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 245-9264. This locally owned and operated colorful and stylish fastcasual restaurant now has three locations spread across the county. The menus offer an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ L D f

IKEBANA 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 384-7284. This Crescent Hill space, site of the original Shariat’s and later Red Pepper Chinese, has been vacant for a while, but is now serving a range of Japanese fare, from hibachi grilled items to yakitori to a wide range of sushi rolls, including vegetarian options and sweet dessert rolls. $$ L D p

YEN CHING 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D

YUMMY CHINA 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h

ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Veteran restaurateur Coco Tran looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D

ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 4264441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D

SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp

DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444, 129 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 7258600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf

HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofu-making room. State-

72 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot serves all the popular maki and nigri near Bowman Field. $$ L D h

RAMEN INOCHI 2009 Highland Ave., 785-4199. Coowners Jonathan Chiu and Jonathan Ham have extensive restaurant backgrounds — Chui’s parents own the historic Oriental House — and the confidence to make a go of a location that has seen lots of turnover. The short menu offers ramen bowls and appetizers such as gyoza, edamame and pork belly buns. $$ D hpf

ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Arata is a dedicated sushi place, with only a few items that fall outside of the maki, nigri and sashimi offerings. The elegant modern interior, and the commitment to the freshest ingredients have been drawing in fans from beyond the East End. $$ L D p

GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 749-8878. A one-stop Asian restaurant. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D hp

MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quick-eating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p

POKEHANA 436 W. Market St., 996-7994. Poke, an increasingly popular Hawaiian raw fish salad, is given a fast-casual Asian fusion twist here in the space that had been Chop Chop Salads. Choose your combination of protein and vegetables and toppings such as ginger, jalapeno and seaweed salad. Also fried rice, bibimbab and noodle-bab, made with sweet potato noodles.$$ L

YOU-CARRYOUT-A 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881, 621 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 2461788. $ L D

FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp

MISAWA HIBACHI & SUSHI BAR 7931 Bardstown Rd. The hibachi grills here are not for show, just for grilling, which keeps prices lower than other Japanese steak houses. Rodeleo See, a sushi chef with almost two decades of experience runs the sushi bar. $$ L D

OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D

YOKI BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-2277. A Chinese food-oriented buffet, with sushi as well, offers more options near the Jeffersontown Industrial Park along the Blankenbaker Rd. corridor. $$ L D

FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LD p

MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L Dh

KAI LANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets its own sushi bar, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h

SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h SAMURAI 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Middletown gets some artistic sushi, as well as hibachi-grilled steak and seafood. Teppan-style (food cooked on an iron griddle) lunch and dinner entrees are a specialty. $$ L D

p

KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp

SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. The remodeled Highlands location has an expanded kitchen, new sushi bar and new fixtures, giving trendy, glitzy Sapporo new bona fides as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ L D

KOBE STEAKHOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p

SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine

hp

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 73

“challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Jeffersonville joins the sushi craze with its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D SUSHI MASTER 9415 Norton Commons Blvd., 890-5157. Quickly replacing the suburban location of Wild Ginger, this traditional Japanese restaurant offers sashimi, classic sushi rolls, noodle dishes such as udon and cold soba and entrees such as teriyaki chicken, and grilled fish. A few Korean dishes such as bulgogi are on offer too. $$ L D

pf

TOGO SUSHI 700 Lyndon Ln., 883-0666. ToGo offers primarily drive-thru sushi-to-go, but it does have a fiveseat bar and three two-top tables inside. Owner Chet Gurun also owns Samurai Sushi & Hibachi in Middletown and is also part owner of Oishii Sushi near Bowman Field. If sushi isn’t your thing, there are items like fried oysters, fried calamari and shrimp tempura, as well as some vegetarian options. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-0200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p TSUBAKI SUSHI & BAR 13823 English Villa Dr., 2448896. A new addition to Jasmine, many people’s favorite Chinese restaurant in town. Look for both raw and cooked two-piece nigiri and three-piece Sashimi, a variety of vegetable rolls and deep fried rolls, and special rolls almost beyond counting. $$ L D p WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. This Highlands sushi and Asian fusion spot has a sushi bar up front, and a pan-Asian menu in the back dining room. Entrees include standard Japanese entrées such as teriyuaki chicken, Japanese curry, and soba and udon noodle dishes. $$ L D hp

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oechsli Ave., 290-8900. “Charim” can be rendered as “the table is set.” In this case with home-style Korean food, including nokdu jeon, a pancake with mung beans and kim chee — house-made kim chee at that. This modest St. Matthews place quickly became a hit, especially for the banchan, the assortment of sides that come with each entrée. $ L D KIM & BAB 3012 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN, 725-9844. This little Korean restaurant is getting rave notices from locals who love the mandu (dumplings), japchae (a noodle dish), galbi (short ribs) and dak-kangjung (fried marinated boneless chicken in a spicy sweet and sour sauce). More familiar things like bulgogi and fried rice too. $$ L D

it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h

restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D

RICE BOWL 3114 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 5906786. Rice Bowl is another addition to the restaurant row area near the IUS campus. It serves Korean and Asian dishes. You will find clay pot bibimbap, chicken curry rice, several varieties of ramen. $$ L D

CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp

SARANG 1908 Eastern Pkwy., 709-4282. The store on the Eastern Parkway side of the Schuster Building most recently was a Ce Fiori yogurt shop, but it now serves Korean food such as bibimbap, mandoo, ramen and dakkangjung. Bubble tea is back, too. $ L D

CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thaistyle “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run Tan Thai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The menu covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D TIME 4 THAI 2206 Frankfort Ave., 996-7899. The elegantly redone interior is matched by some unusually elegant Thai dishes, such as the volcano Cornish hen, a whole bird, marinated with Thai herbs and spicy chili sauce, which is flambéed at the table. All dishes are cooked to order, so choose your spice level. $$ L D p

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D

Á-CHÂU RESTAURANT 5103 S. Third St., 364-4262. This Beechmont arrival (pronounced “Ah Chow”), proclaims “Vietnamese Street Food” in a banner over the front door of what long was Thornberry’s Deli. The menu includes noodles and soups, Vietnamese egg rolls, bánh mi, curry dishes, fresh coconut or sugar cane juice, sweet Thai iced tea and hot or cold Vietnamese coffee. $$ LD

LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

CHIK'N & MI 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 890-5731. Fried chicken meets Asian noodles in the lower Brownsboro space that has seen lots of other ethnic choices. The menu starts with fried chicken tossed in sauces such as sweet soy, hot, extra hot, and peppercorn ranch. Starters include assorted pickles, salads, fried calamari, and pork belly steam buns. Also pho and ramen dishes and shareable sides: fries, bok choy and kimchi mac and cheese. $$ Br D p EATZ VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT 974 Barret Ave., 785-4550. Another newcomer to the string of shotgun houses along Barret that provide a lead-in to the Paris Pointe development. Pho and Bahn mi sandwiches, of course, but also other noodle dishes, a bento box and crispy tofu in chili sauce. $$ L D pf LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS RESTAURANT 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7110, 2956 Richland Ave., 614-7448. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f NGON APPÉTIT 1991 Brownsboro Rd., 822-3377. "Ngon" means delicious in Vietnamese, and the name reflects the French-Vietnamese culinary scope of this new enterprise from the owners of the now-defunct Four Sisters restaurant. Look for authentic Pho Bac (Northern style Vietnamese pho), crepes and bánh mi sandwiches. $LD PHO BA LUU 1019 E. Main St., 384-6822. This Butchertown restaurant focuses on Vietnamese street food such as pho, the classic noodle soup, and banh mi sandwiches. The very cool repurposed space was once a welding shop; its large open spaces and high ceilings make for an elegant place to sip sweet iced coffee or munch on an Imperial roll or tuck into a rice or noodle bowl. Fast casual service at lunch; after happy hour the full bar and large patio have full service. $$ L D pf PHO CAFÉ 1704 Barstown Rd., 916-2129. Local restaurant veteran Tuan Phan, who worked at Asiatique for 18 years along with a stint at Dish on Market, is serving Vietnamese-style home cooking. There is pho, of course, the signature noodle soup, as well as other noodle and rice dishes, banh mi sandwiches and a small selection of stir-fries. $$ L D h VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 73


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:36 AM Page 74

BOUDREAUX’S CAJUN COOKING 1816 Shelbyville Rd. Inside the tiny Boudreaux's New Orleans Style Sno-Balls shack in Middletown, you can now find take-out only New Orleans style spicy gumbo (lunch only). Eat on the patio, or take home to reheat for supper. $ L f COUVILLION 1318 McHenry St., 365-1813. The name of Chef Paul Skulas’s Germantown restaurant, refers to the rich Cajun-style tomato-based roux broth that is the basis of his signature catfish dish. The menu features traditional Southern flavors and cooking styles of Mississippi and Louisiana. $$$ L D pf FLAVOUR 1767 Bardstown Rd., 409-6968. This Highlands space that was Asiatique has been quickly appropriated for Flavour, which features Caribbean, Creole and Southern cuisine. The menu ranges from conch fritters and Caribbean-spiced chicken pattie to fried catfish and ribs to crawfish etouffée, jerk chicken and Trinidadian oxtail stew. J. GUMBO’S 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 103 Quartermaster Crt., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823, 1616 Grinstead Dr., 873-5006, 2109 Frankfort Ave., 8964046. Former jockey Billy Fox has come full circle with his chain of popular quick-service Cajun restaurants — his most recent outlet is in the little house near Bardstown Rd., where it all began. Among the hearty, affordable dishes that have made J. Gumbo’s a go-to spot is the drunken chicken, still a favorite. $ B L D f SEAFOOD LADY 105 W. Oak St., 210-9381, 3207 Fern Valley Rd., 907-5251. It began as a food truck, but owner Nichelle Thurston has expanded into two stores. The lure here is fresh fish, shrimp and crab legs brought up from the Gulf Coast, prepared with Cajun spices, and served simply and relatively cheaply. $$ L D f SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf STORMING CRAB 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 590-3773. Seafood boil combos are the draw here, served at market price and by the pound. Several flavors (crab house Cajun, garlic butter or plain) and spice levels to take home or dump on the paper-covered tables to eat as it should be eaten. Other seafood dishes available plus Cajun items, like gumbo and crawfish etoufée. $$$ L D hp

CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 317 W. Woodlawn Ave., 434-7711. The diverse Woodlawn neighborhood welcomes the area’s first Haitian restaurant. The boldly-painted exterior is decorated with cool Haitian folk art; the menu offers generous portions of jerk chicken, fried red snapper, goat, and hearty sides of rice, beans and plantains. $ L D h EL SABOR DE CUBA 7200 Preston Hwy., 618-2181. The flavors of Cuba can be found here on an ambitious menu of appetizers (tamales, croquetas and tostones), pizzas (including those topped with tuna or shrimp), Cubano (and other) sandwiches, and chicken, beef, FLORIDITA 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 290-8133. Taking over a former Señor Iguanas site, this Cuban spot offers sandwiches, tamales, ceviche, and dinner dishes such as vaca frita, camarones al ajillo, masas de lechon and bistec palomilla. $ L D hpf GALAN’S MEAT MARKET & GRILLE 2300 W. Market St., 614-8514. Carlos Galan, who has made a mark with his butcher shop in Portland, has opened another enterprise, in a former bank. His family-oriented

74 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

restaurant, which has a Cuban/Puerto Rican/Caribbean menu focus, also has a meat market on site. Order breakfast, lunch or dinner inside, or from the drivethrough. $ B L D f HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 320 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Owner Leo Lopez has rebooted his restaurant concept in a former bank (the safe is still there, behind the bar) and installed in the front of the restaurant is a recreation of the raft he built to emigrate from Castro’s Cuba when he was 18. Cubanstyle tapas on the menu, also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. Live music most nights — tango, flamenco and salsa. $$ L D pfe HAVANA BAKERY CAFÉ 5510 Fern Valley Rd., 5093410. This Cuban spot offers sweets and savories: tres leches cake, coquitos (coconut-caramel rolls) and flan; sandwiches or meat and fish combos (ropa vieja, albondigas, pechuga de pollo). $$ L D HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at both locations of this consistently busy Cuban restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D p f HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D hpfe MI SUEÑO 3425 Bardstown Rd., 709-4526, 4214 Bishop Ln., 458-1050. This honest little bodega and hot table restaurant serving Latin groceries and a variety of Cubancentric Latin dishes was, as the name translates, the owner’s dream. It was a successful dream, in that there are now two locations, both offering solid ethnic fare at affordable big-city ethnic eatery prices. $ B L D NAILA’S CARIBBEAN 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN 725-0399. This little place, tucked behind Storming Crab, serves island fare like jerk wings with plantain chips, as well as Indian-inspired items like curries, and when available Trini fried whole fish. $$ L D ROOF TOP GRILL 708 Louis Coleman Jr. Dr., 785-4069, 414 W. Oak St., 618-2287. This West End Jamaican restaurant serves the native cuisine of owner Courtney Johnson. Look for jerk chicken, curry with chicken, turkey, goat and rib tips, along with Kentucky favorites like fried catfish, barbecue and beef patties. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 883-3153. This Provençal-style brasserie serves classical and Southern French specialties, the comfort food enjoyed by owner Guy Genoud in his childhood home of Cannes, France. Dine like the French do on fish and seafood, a variety of meat and fowl, a daily "plat du jour", French cheese and charcuterie, specialty cocktails, draft beer and a large selection of French wine. $$$ L D pf

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The popular Germantown restaurant has re-defined itself as a

neighborhood meeting place with an imaginative menu of freshly-made German and American dishes. The menu includes a variety of house-made sausages, schnitzel, rouladen, spätzle and the most extensive German beer selection in town. $$ L D h GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North Rhine-Westphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloon is as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. Serving classic Irish fare. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D

hpfe

MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. $ L D hpfe O'CONNELL'S IRISH PUB 5520 Fern Valley Rd., 9640040. If you are in the mood for an Irish Car Bomb, this is the place. Guinness, too, karaoke nights and a satisfying selection of bar food. $ L D hpe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. The O’Shea family has been operating an Irish pub since the early 1900s. Today they have one of the most popular pubs on the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Diners of all ages like its burgers, flat breads, sandwiches and fish and chips. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D

hpfe

PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D AMICI´ 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic (and pet-friendly) patio on a lovely summer evening. There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. Later in the spring, a coffee shop is to be added. $$ L D pf AT THE ITALIAN TABLE 2359 Frankfort Ave., 8830211. Chef Gina Stipo has a real osteria in her Crescent Hill house, serving dinners Wednesday through Saturday at two communal dining tables, imported from

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:37 AM Page 75

her former digs in Italy. Book now for later in the spring – both her dinners and Tuesday night hands-on cooking classes fill up fast. $$$ D BAR VETTI 800 S. Fourth St., 883-3331. Ryan Rogers (Feast BBQ, Royals Hot Chicken) and Executive Chef Andrew McCabe have made bar Vetti, in the renovated 800 Building (now 800 City Club Apartments), a musttry spot for their classic Italian cooking using local seasonally available produce and simple preparations. $$ B L D hpf BELLA ROMA AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. Bella Roma adds classic Italian-American choices in a pleasant environment in the midst of New Albany’s growing restaurant row. $$$ L D f BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D

hpfe

BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family Italian-American restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D hpf

CIAO 1201 Payne St., 690-3532. A crisp modern dining space with a menu that is a blend of familiar ItalianAmerican family cuisine and Northern Italian dishes. Creative takes on Italian regional cuisine include salmon saltimbocca, roast chicken with lemon risotto and eggplant rollini. Unusual pizzas are topped with mushroom and truffle, shrimp scampi and butternut squash. Flavors of monkey bread, a popular appetizer, vary daily. $$ L D hpf COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777. Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike other neighborhood saloons, this houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. Reminiscent of a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f GRASSA GRAMMA 2210 Holiday Manor Ctr., 333-9595. Kevin Grangier’s newest dining idea is his take on familiar Italian food, just like your robust Italian grandmother made, only better. There’s lasagne, of course, and spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli and gnocchi and several other pastas, but prime beef filet with Gorgonzola sauce, veal scallopini, whole roasted branzino, and pizza, too. $$$$ Br L D p MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 3949797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ Br L D hpf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

MERCATO ITALIANO 10640 Meeting St., 690-3200. This Italian market and upscale casual restaurant in Norton Commons is under new ownership. Chef/owner Peter Pagano prepares lunch, brunch and dinner. Customers can buy cheeses, bread, charcuterie, sauces, packaged pastas and prepared meals for take-out in the market section. $$ Br L D p MILANTONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1600 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8210. This East End restaurant serves up all you would want in a casual Italian eatery: mozzarella sticks and calamari; subs and Philly cheesesteaks; pizzas and calzones; and a dozen or so different pastas. $$ L D p OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 339-7190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 9682978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 5840567. Offices for blocks around empty into this busting Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since . 1992.

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 75


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:37 AM Page 76

Start with fried artichokes, a Roman specialty. Opt for the grilled Romaine salad, then the gnocchi with spicy sausage. The grilled veal chop is a fine choice, and finish with tiramisu. $$$ L D hpfe ROC RESTAURANT 1327 Bardstown Rd., 459-7878. New York City chef/restaurateur Rocco Cadolini has transformed a Highlands building into an elegant upscale restaurant, with a handsome pergola in the front garden. The first floor has a large bar and casual dining, and upstairs sees a more formal white tablecloth space with several private dining rooms. Here you will find authentic Italian food, served with flair. Now open for lunch and the “disco brunches” are becoming legendary. $$$ Br L D hpf ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SARINO 1030 Goss Ave., 822-3777. Owners and brothers, Carmelo and Michael Gabriele, the next generation of the noted Gabriele family (owners of the highly revered Vincenzo’s), have taken over the shortlived Goss Ave. Pub space for their casual, authentic Italian restaurant that emphasizes fresh pasta and Neapolitan pizza, something Germantown had been lacking. The menu also features Sicilian street fare, Italian cheeses paired with charcuterie, and traditional entrees. $$ D hp SILVIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 104 Fairfax Ave., 883-6369. Owned by one of the Melillo family, fondly remembered for their NuLu retaurant before NuLu became popular, this St. Matthews spot evokes the classic New Jersey style Italian restaurants of the “Big Night” era: baked pasta dishes, cheese-stuffed rice balls, pasta fagiole, and eggplant Parmesan. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D STEVE O'S ITALIAN KITCHEN 2230 Frankfort Ave., 822-3370. This family-oriented pizza pub and restaurant has been serving traditional Italian dishes like pizza, lasagna and chicken parmesan, subs and wings for a dozen years or so in La Grange and has now taken over the former Clifton Pizza Co. site for its second location. $$ L D pe TOWN 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. The former Southern Indiana branch of the Come Back Inn has a new identity and a menu still focused on pasta dishes and pizzas with several new salads, sandwiches and a revamped appetizer selection. Other entrees include items like chicken piccata and Greek lamb pasta. $$ L D p TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced Italian-American fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D p VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. Chef and coowner Josh Moore has revised his menu after an inspirational tour of Italy, and brings in fantastic whole fish for seafood specials on Fridays. His pasta extruder allows him to do things like squid ink fettuccine. Volare continues to be a top spot for suave Italian dining. Moore supplies his kitchen with vegetabl es he raises himself on his Taylorsville farm. $$ B Br L D

hpf

76 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

SHREEJI INDIAN VEGETARIAN STREET FOOD 1986 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-4000. $$ L D h ARTESANO TAPAS VINO Y MAS 1321 Herr Ln., 7082196. Part of Fernando Martinez’s Olé Restaurant Group, Artesano firmly holds down a corner of Westport Village with casual and authentic Spanish tapas, ceviches, empanadas, and entrées from across the cuisines of Latin America. Look for beautifully done familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, and le ss familiar items like salmon moruno or costililla de cerdo, a pork chop wrapped in Serrano ham. $$$ D hpfe MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D

hpf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D CHAMLING KITCHEN & BAR 2249 Hikes Ln., 4512100. Another entrepreneurial immigrant family has opened Louisvillians’ taste buds to more ethnic possibilities. In the former Empress of China space, the Rai family serves standard Chinese hot table dishes, but also adds Nepalese and Indian fare. $ L D p CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also selections of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ L D DAKSHIN SOUTH INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. This Indian restaurant has won many fans with its aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p HIMALAYAN RESTAURANT 1578 Bardstown Rd., 7081477. Owner Teknath Niraula is Nepalese, but the menu is largely focused on northern Indian cuisine. There are samosas and pakoras, but also momo dumplings, various tandooris, saag, vindaloos and curries, and many wellspiced vegetarian dishes. $$ L D phf KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf KATHMANDU KITCHEN AND BAR 3825 Bardstown Rd., 276-1527. Named for the capital city of Nepal, this crisp, modern place in Buechel serves Nepalese food (a sort-of fusion of Chinese and Indian cuisines). Expect dishes such as pakoras, biruanis and even chow mein, but also Nepali items such as pork sakuwo (spiced pork chunks cooked on skewers), fried mo-mo (a kind of dumpling with dipping sauce) and khasikomaasu ra bhata, an aromatic stew with curried accents. $$ L D hp SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D

TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f TANDOORI FUSION 4600 Chamberlain Ln., 255-2590. The former Zeggz's location has been quickly taken over by entrepreneur Purna Veer, who uses Indian vegetables grown on his Oldham County farm. Veer promises that his dishes will not be “watered down,” so be ready for uncommon spice levels. $$ B L D pf TIKKA HOUSE 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 749-4535. Tikka House has garnered positive notice for both its lunch buffet and a la carte dinner service. Diners have praised dishes such as lamb masala with roasted coconut, Tandoori wings, fish pakora, paneer chili, several daal preparations and saag paneer. $$ L D pf

4 SEASONS RESTAURANT 8402 Hudson Ln., 749-9969. Fern Creek boasts the first Bulgarian restaurant in town. The “Mediterranean” cuisine here ranges from the familiar (gyros and kebabs) to Bulgarian specialties kebapche (grilled meat), banitsa (stuffed bread) and shopska salad with tomatoes, cukes and salty cheese. $$ L D pf AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D ALADDIN’S MEDITERRANEAN 37 Bank St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. After bringing a higher level of Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany, Aladdin’s has moved to the cool new Underground Station complex. You will still find wellcrafted gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus in their sleek new environs. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D h CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 2716 Frankfort Ave., 290-6050. Middle Eastern food of an aboveaverage quality. Kabobs and hummus, of course, but also shirazi salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemony dressing, and chicken stew with pomegranate and walnuts. $ L D EAT A PITA 2286 Bardstown Rd., 473-7482. Enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the BardstownBaxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D

hf

GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. For those in the know, the Grape Leaf has long been a destination spot, well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery nich in both ambiance and quality of food. Prices remain affordable; the food and mood justify a special trip. $$ L D f JERUSALEM KITCHEN 4413 Saint Rita Dr., 614-6465. Little Jerusalem Café has moved from the Iroquois

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:37 AM Page 77

Manor area and moderately rebranded itself. You can still find a range of Mediterranean dishes here, schwarma and fattoush, gyros and hummus and so on. $ L D LITTLE GREEK FRESH GRILL 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 690-8348. This Arkansas-based chain is now serving dolmades and spanikopita, pita sandwiches and wraps, a variety of skewers and mousaka and pastitsio. $$ L D p MAIRA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 1907 S. Fourth St., 963-5999. Owners of the popular Safier restaurant in Theater Square have opened this U of L location, serving Middle Eastern food such as shawarma, kebab, falafel, hummus, lentil soup and baklava. $ L D f MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the now-defunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PASHA'S MEDITERRANEAN 3904 Bardstown Rd., 4094532. You can find the usual Mediterranean fare here – falafel, baba ghanouj – but with influences of Jordanian recipes such as Kalaya, ground lamb cooked in tomatoes, and char-grilled lamb liver. Fans cite the value-sized portions. $$ L D hfe PITA PIT 434 W. Jefferson St., 450-6077. Pita Pit, an international sandwich chain, offers the expected falafel and gyros, but customers can also choose club sandwiches, chicken Caesars and Philly cheesesteak pitas, salads and breakfast pitas. It’s located in the longempty former J. Gumbo’s spot, at the corner of S. Fifth and Jefferson Streets. $ L D SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salmon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 5851125. You can get standard American fare at this downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SAM’S GYRO 3123 S. Second St., 709-4292. This hummus and kebab joint, with its tasty food and friendly service, has moved out to the South End. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D h SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4263440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232, 237 S. Fifth St., 742-1058, 4614 Chamberlain Ln., 919-9014, 1565 Bardstown Rd., 749-0385. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavash. $ L D

f

TAZIKI’S MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6222, 106 Fairfax Ave., 212-5373. At these Alabama-based chain outlets the food is made fresh daily with vegan and gluten-free choices. The menu includes grilled chicken roll-ups, a grilled tilapia sandwich with dill-caper sauce, gyros, a grilled vegetable and rice plate, roasted potatoes and baklava, along with beer and wine. $$ L D pf YAFA CAFÉ 612 S. Fifth St., 561-0222. This well-respected Middle Eastern lunch spot had gained a fanbase for its

hummus, among other dishes, before it succumbed to the expansion of the Kindred development. Now it has reopened in a prime downtown restaurant lunch space that has seen a number of prior occupants. $$ L D hf ZOE’S KITCHEN 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has two Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D

CARALI'S ROTISSERIE CHICKEN 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 618-0699, 211 S. Fifth St., 654-7131. You will find Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken here and other South American dishes: lomo (grilled marinated steak), chaufa rice and various salads and side dishes (such as stuffed avocado). Sandwiches as well as full dinners, and take away half and full roasted chickens. $ L D p EL RINCONCITO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 742-9537. This Peruvian restaurant adds to the ethnic choices in Buechel. The happy chicken logo touts the charcoal-grilled chicken, but the menu includes salchipapa (sausage and potatoes), lomo saltado (a beef stew), plantains and Peruvian green rice. $ L D LA GUANAQUITA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 822-1343. This South End spot serves the dishes of Guatemala and Honduras: pupusas and baleadas and pescado frito (fried fish), served whole, head and tail on, garnished with lime wedges and avocado slices. $$ L D h SABOR LATINO 1273 S. Brook St., 276-4954. A welcome addition to Old Louisville is this tiny restaurant serving a “Latin Culinary Mix,” as a sign advertises. The menu offers Cuban sandwiches, patatas bravas, burritos, quesadillas, carne asada, ropa vieja and pollo de vacaciones – a chicken stew. $$ L D f YUMMY POLLO 4222 Bishop Ln., 618-1400. You can get Peruvian-style charcoal roasted chicken here by the piece, half or whole bird. American-style side dishes include fried or mashed potatoes, rice, steamed vegetables, slaw and pasta salad. $ L

BANDIDO TAQUERIA MEXICANA 423 University Blvd., 996-7788. This little Mexican place in a strip mall near U of L serves California-style tacos, quesadillas, burritos, nachos and burrito bowls, with a choice of four salsas at the condiment bar. $$ L D CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. This little shop along the lower Brownsboro food corridor touts “a world of flavor with a Mexican flair.” It’s mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. $ L D CANCÚN 808 Lyndon Ln., 885-2318. Another Mexican restaurant has taken over the Lyndon-area space that recently was Hay Chi Wa Waa. The extensive menu offers familiar dishes, combination platers, and steak and seafood specialties like carne bandito and tostados de ceviche. $$ L D pf CASA FIESTA 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This Mexican restaurant in the Summit area has impressed diners with its clean, modern ambience and its generous portions for reasonable prices. $ L D pf CHILAKILES OAXACAN BREAKFAST 5600 National Tpk., 632-2000. This family-run spot serves a variety of Mexican dishes from breakfast and brunch through dinner. Some of the Oaxacan specialities are not commonly seen locally, such as tortilla entomotadas, egg and black-bean enfrijoladas or pollo rostizado with a spicy guajillo pepper sauce. $$ B Br L D pf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 5848606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170, 1075 Bardstown Rd., 452-8990, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7173, 420 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 425-3017. Now with five Louisville locations, this increasingly popular Tex-Mex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ L Df CITIZEN 7 10715 Meeting St., 690-6390. South American street food joins the dining choices at Norton Commons with this Latin-themed place with a margarita menu at the bar. The dining menu offers small plates such as short rib empanada, mojo pork belly and salads, with entrees such as churrasco and Peruvian-style roast chicken. $$ L D pfe COCONUT BEACH TACOS & CERVEZA 2787 S. Floyd St., 634-2843. The menu here is anchored by bargainpriced tacos created to lure in U of L students from nearby (the place is across from Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium), as well as burritos, empanadas and tortas. Come the weekend, the huge space is converted into a bar and dance club. $ L D hpf CON HUEVOS 2339 Frankfort Ave., 384-3027, 4938 US42, 384-3744. This popular Mexican breakfast and lunch spot now has a suburban location, too. Expect huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, breakfast-style enchiladas (with eggs, of course), frijoladas, churros, and molletes. Tortas and tacos at lunch as well. $ B Br L EL BARRIO TEQUILA AND WHISKEY BAR 129 W. Main St., 583-5505. A new enterprise from Ernesto Rivera, who previously owned Ernesto's restaurant around town. Taking over the space that had been Me Gusta Latin Kitchen, El Barrio offers Mexican dishes such as tacos and chicken and pork entrees paired with mole sauces and Cuban sandwiches. A full bar features a margarita made with bourbon. $$ L D hpf EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 266-9605. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, find much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with fresh-squeezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (21 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain that now numbers twenty, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf EL RIO GRANDE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 632-2403. A Mexican restaurant has taken over the expansive space that once was Limestone. Patrons report good experiences, with both the food and the service. $$ L D hp

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 77


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:37 AM Page 78

EL SINALOA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 111 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-6489. A small but sincere Mexican restaurant in downtown New Albany. Some usual dishes on the menu – burritos, quesadillas, tacos and tortas – but also things like mulitas (think quesadillas crossed with tostadas) and unusual taco fillings like the Mar y Tierra with shrimp and grilled steak. $ L D EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ B L D p EL TACO LOCO 5622 Preston Hwy., 225-7229. This unpretentious Mexican restaurant tries to be as authentic as it can, and has persuaded many fans with its efforts. Inexpensive, freshly made tacos, quesadillas and other familiar Mexican dishes, served in value sizes. $ L D h EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave, 583-0440; 112 Meridian Ave., 709-5154, 500 W. Jefferson St., 4099254. These three taquerias have diners lined up out the door, one good reason for the recent expansion of the original Highlands space to the neighboring building . Familiar taco names — carnitas, carne asada — get clever riffs in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food. And do try the amazing tortas. $ L D h f EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. El Tarasco’s take on Mexican food appeals both to the area’s growing Latino population and Anglos who want to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family-oriented Mexican restaurant offers the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D

pf

EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf EL VAQUERO 5414 Bardstown Rd., 409-7819. This Ohiobased chain offers a wide range of familiar Mexican dishes for lunch and dinner with a few specialties like Molcajete Ranchero (grilled shrimp, sirloin steak, chicken and Mexican sausage) and Cochinita Pibil (marinated baked pork Yucatan style). $ L D p FIESTA MEXICANA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444, 135 S. English Station Rd., 254-7755. These traditional Mexican restaurant’s locations serve the expected things, like fajitas and burritos. But there is also an extensive grill menu, with items such as steak tampiqueño (rib-eye steak with ranchero sauce), Chile Colorado and Los Amigos cheese steak. $ L D pf FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. When Fernando Martinez returned to Louisville, he started his remarkable new restaurant blitz with this East End “creative Mexican” restaurant. As the name emphasizes, the menu explores different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Fans quickly warmed to the food and the up-tothe-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Christina. $$ Br L D pe GUSTAVO’S 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 434-7266. This spot

78 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

offers “bold Mexican flavors.” Everything you would expect — fajitas, burritos, tacos — but also vegetarian options, house specialties like enchiladas verdes, chimichangas, shrimp tacos and pollo feliz (grilled chicken with chorizo and pineapple). $$ L D pf ISRAEL’S DELICIAS DE MEXICO GOURMET 1515 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9139. Israel Landon introduced Kentuckiana to his Mexican home-style cooking at La Rosita a few years ago. Now he is back at his original location serving street tacos and Mayan quesadillas. Weekly specials highlight cuisine from various regions of Mexico, including seafood dishes and new desserts. $ L D f KENTUCKY TACO COMPANY 502 Warnock St., 3653349. Once just a food truck, KTC now has a stable base — just a takeout window but with plenty of fans of their Kentucky style tacos: tortillas topped with fried chicken and beer cheese, sloppy joe, braised pork and a vegan style using cauliflower in BBQ sauce. Chimichangas and empanadas, too. $$ L D hf LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L Dh LA CATRINA MEXICAN KITCHEN 202 E. Elm St., New Albany IN, 725-8264. The owners of Señor Iguanas restaurants have opened this Mexican party food and street food restaurant in the building that Dragon King’s Daughter moved out of. Look for naked and dressed tacos, soups, salads and shareable dishes and seasonal menu updates. $$ L D hpf LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 3846427. $$ B L D LA LUPITA 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-0083. Tucked away on the back side of a strip mall, this is a new spot for authentic Mexican food. The usual stuff but also panbazos, tlcoyos, tlayudas and aguachile, all explained and illustrated on the menu. $$ L D hpf LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LD p LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566. This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ LDp LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2883. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA TORTA LOCA 5213 Preston Hwy., 966-3254. This simple, strip mall eatery has been around long enough to gain dedicated fans of their well-seasoned and fairly spicy versions of familiar Mexican dishes. Some of those fans recommend the agua de Jamaica (hibiscus). LA TROPICANA 5215 Preston Hwy., 964-5957. This Latino grocery store has been selling a full range of fruits, vegetables, meats and grocery items for a while. Now there is a steam-table buffet with a wide range of lunch choices. It’s mostly take-away, but there’s also limited outdoor and indoor seating. $$ B L D f

LAS AMERICAS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 3719 Klondike Ln., 365-2710. This Klondike-area ethnic place is a small Mexican market as well as a restaurant. You will find familiar items like flautas and burritos but also a few specials like mojarra frita (a whole fried fish). $$ L D hp LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small, thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz now also have a sit-down storefront just down the street. $ D

hf

LONGBOARD'S TACO & TIKI 302 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 924-7510. Ian Hall’s newest restaurant joins his Exchange Pub + Kitchen and Brooklyn and the Butcher in the continuing restaurant efflorescence across the river. A fast-casual concept, Longboard’s serves “chef-inspired” tacos and “tiki-influenced” cocktails in as cool a California beach vibe as can be conjured up in New Albany. Choose from 10 styles of tacos, poke bowls with rice, seafood ceviches, salads, salsas and guacamoles. $$ L D h pf LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf LUNA'S MEXICAN ROTISSERIE 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898. The owners came from Puebla, Mexico, but made a stop in Los Angeles before moving to Louisville and starting Luna’s Rotisserie. Their specialty is slowcooked rotisserie chicken from the coast of Veracruz. There’s plenty more on the board, such as tamales, quesadillas and menudo. On Saturdays & Sundays, pozole and cabo de camaron are added. $$ L D h MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 Hendrik Dr., 671-5291, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 749-6651. The 3 local outlets of this chain of Mexican-American restaurants serve a Latin lunch buffet seven days a week as well as a full dinner menu. You will find burritos, tacos and tamales, but also several steak dishes and Mexican-style desserts. $$ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along East Market Street, in the area now known as Nulu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ L D MEXA TACOS 3701 Lexington Rd., 290-1334. This fastcasual restaurant features a list of signature steak tacos customizable with house-made salsas, guacamole, peppers and other toppings, such as the special house queso made with poblano peppers. Owner Lorena CasasOstos is a steak taco purist, but she offers fish, shrimp and pork pastor too. $$ L D p MEXICO CITY TAQUERIA & RESTAURANT 3826 Hamburg Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 283-1072. This bright little Mexican place in a Jeffersonville strip mall offers the usual, and on weekends adds traditional Mexican soups like caldos de camarones, menudo and pozole. $ L D h MI CASITA PARRILLA MEXICANA 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-3315. Enthusiastic fans of the restaurant formerly known as Mi Cocina will find the same quick and efficient lunch service and dishes executed with skill at both locations, under the new name change. The margaritas at Happy Hour are notable, and the East End location has added Sunday hours. $$ L D hpf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:37 AM Page 79

MI TIERRA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-9142. A clean, well-lighted place in the East End serves up familiar Mexican food – fajitas, tacos, carne asada – in a friendly, efficient atmosphere that is drawing raves from its local fans. $ L D hp MIGO 2222 Dundee Rd., 882-3279. Tacos, imaginatively conceived by Adam Burress and Chase Mucerino are the focus of this popular Highlands restaurant. The ambiance is laid-back casual, and the flavor influences come from Brazil, Argentina and even Korea. Co-owner and bar manager Gerald Dickerson has worked up a notable bar and cocktail program as well. $$ D hpfe NEW WAVE BURRITOS 3311 Preston Hwy., 963-2727. The late-night burrito delivery service that has been operating out of borrowed kitchen spaces since late 2014 has moved into its own space at the former Grind Burger location. In addition to their five signature burritos new items include tacos, tortas and chicharrones. $$ D h OLE FRIJOLE 5612 Bardstown Rd., 822-3388. After a bit of a hike out Bardstown Rd., you will find oversized margaritas, well-priced, nicely made familiar Mexican food, and a welcoming atmosphere. The customize-yourguacamole bar is a popular feature. $$ L D p PIÑA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D

p

QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (17 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f

TACO CHOZA 3922 Westport Rd., 409-5080. In the heart of St. Matthews, this locally-owned taqueria also makes burritos and quesadillas, pours craft beers, and offers daily margarita specials. $ L D hpf TACO CITY LOUISVILLE 1283 Bardstown Rd., 4099454. Tucked in between the Time & Space bar and the Joy Luck restaurant, this new Mexican place — run by three Mexico natives — serves tacos on homemade corn tortillas, tortas, salads and burritos, using recipes straight from Mexico like the mole sauce by the owner’s grandma. $ L D f TACO STEVE 414 Bank St., New Albany IN. 944-2577. Steve Powell started out with a mobile cart he set up around downtown New Albany, but has now found shelter in the back of Destination Booksellers, where he has expanded his menu with burritos, quesadillas, guacamole, chicken wings and chorizo nachos as well. $ LD TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D TAQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 9694449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D VICTORIA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 709-5178. $ L D

WILD RITA’S 445 E. Market St., 584-7482. Downtown needed this new concept from the owners of Wild Eggs:

Modern Mexican food and a hundred choices of tequila at the bar. Owners J.D. Rothberg and Shane Hall have put together an entertaining and tasty menu, with things like tangy-spicy ceviches, mussels con chorizo, tamarind-glazed cod, a bunch of different tacos and an upscale tamale. $$ L D hpe YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 9030313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Ct., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ LD SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f

RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Ramiro Gandara’s Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, in control in the kitchen. Together they deliver some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratchmade tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf RAMIRO’S CANTINA EXPRESS 253 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7770. Long-time restaurateur Ramiro Gandara’s second restaurant, a quick-casual version of his Frankfort Ave. spot, is now serving in Jeffersonville. Order at the counter, grab and go, or sit down and enjoy. Ramiro features his favorites: burritos, chicken bowls, nachos, tortas and tacos. A full bar, too. $ L D pf SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $LD SEÑOR IGUANA’S (5 locations) This expanding local chain is going upscale, with re-designed crisp modern decor, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd., 459-7776. Founded by Saul Garcia down on Main St.’s museum row, his restaurant has an extensive menu that satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D hpf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 79


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:37 AM Page 80

TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (14 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquite-grilled steaks, fish and chicken. The Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. $ L D hp

DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$

410 BAKERY 140 E. Main St., New Albany, IN 946-9410. Owner and baker Emily Butts attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and at her artisan bakery in downtown New Albany, she creates breads (with special items on Saturdays), high-end pastries (which change daily), coffee and espresso drinks, sandwiches for lunch and macarons. $ B L

DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665, 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 949-2334. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of one of these cozy Southern Indiana spots, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f

DIVINE TREATS 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN. 5901470. This Southern Indiana bakery and café provides cakes cookies and other treats. $ B L

ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 3842667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergenfree oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ THE ARCTIC SCOOP 841 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4096602. Flash-freezing by liquid nitrogen produces super smooth and creamy ice cream, the owners of this family run shop assert. Choose your flavor combinations, and watch it all come together in front of your eyes. $ h ART EATABLES 631 S. Fourth St., 589-0210, 819 W. Main St. This chocolatier focuses on bourbon-infused and bourbon-themed candies and chocolate sold by the order or in shops featuring other bourbon-centric gifts. The small-batch bourbon truffle takes the bourbon ball to a new level. $ BOUDREAUX’S NEW ORLEANS STYLE SNO-BALLS 11816 Shelbyville Rd., This little family run shop offers the garishly colored shaved ice treat with all sorts of syrup flavors and toppings. $ f BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 2542885. $ B CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 5612940, 601 S. Fourth St., 294-3496. Erika ChavezGraziano still makes her chocolate confections at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., but now has a large, elegant downtown space in the Hilton Garden Inn building. $ CLIFTON DONUTS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 749-6896. A family from Thailand produces very fresh donuts of all sorts daily to an appreciative crowd from the Clifton corridor. Fans favorably compare the offerings here to those at the chains, lauding freshness of product and friendliness of service. $ B THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 4095090, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 365-2853, 1450 Veteran’s Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 725-7358, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 883-4131, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Now fans of this “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor can find their favorite flavors popping up all over town. And, you can now find Comfy Cow products in Krogers ice cream section. $ f

80 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

EHRLER'S ICE CREAM 201 E. Main St., 749-2236. Louisville’s iconic ice cream shop returns after a long hiatus. Good locally made ice cream and nostalgia for the ice cream treats of childhood will be the main draws. $

f FLORA KITCHENETTE 1004 Barret Ave., 742-3843. This Germantown bakery offers vegan and non-allergenic pastries and baked goods. Selections include cake donuts, toaster tarts, cupcakes, cookies, brownies, granola and macarons. $ B Br L f GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 4237751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998, 10538 Fischer Park Dr., 426-2113. This Tennessee-based chain now has two shops in Louisville, offering a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ HALF PEACH CAFÉ 4121 Oechsli Ave., 742-7839. This vegan café joins the dining options behind the old Sears building in St. Matthews. Menu choices include mushroom drumsticks, pan-fried dumplings, veggie burgers, wraps and falafel, salads and soups, gluten-free baked goods and smoothies. $$ L HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HI-FIVE DOUGHNUTS 1011 E. Main St., 409-5584. Owners Annie Harlow and Leslie Wilson started with a food truck, and now are among the pioneer businesses in the Butcher Block on E. Main St. Customers can create their own with a choice of glazes and toppings or choose house favorites like Kentucky Fried Buttermilk Chicken Doughnut, Bourbon Caramel with Bacon, or Sugah Doughnut. $ B L HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 3737 Lexington Rd., 8933303, 3521 Springhurst Commons Dr., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 590-3580, 9561 Hwy. 42, 614-8202, 4810 Dixie Hwy., 409-6100. $ L D hf

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this downhomey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers an eclectic menu of Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, as well as breads. $ B L D f JEFF'S BAKERY 5420 IN-62, Jeffersonville, 283-3636. Donuts are the draw here at this Southern Indiana bakery. Jeff concocts 40 variations, some large enough to be shared with the whole office. $ B L D h KING DONUTS 608 Lyndon Ln., 890-5293. Donuts, yes, but you can also choose muffins, breakfast sandwiches and sandwiches for lunch. Healthy juices as well as coffee. $ B L D L'BADS ICE CREAM PARLOR 2606 W. Market St., 8027519. In addition to ice cream treats, this West End business serves breakfast items like fried egg and cheese sandwiches, French toast and waffles, and sandwiches and pizza for lunch. $ B L D h f LIÈGE & DAIRY ICE CREAM + WAFFLES 2212 Holiday Manor Ctr., 791-7991. This East End shop boasts locally roasted coffee and in-house crafted ice cream made with local honey, sorghum molasses, fruits, and non-GMO cream, using a process that creates a denser ice cream. $ L D h LOUISVILLE CREAM 632 E. Market St., 882-1516. After three years as an off-the-radar caterer and pop-up seller of premium ice creams, Louisville Cream has settled down in NuLu. Co-founder Darryl Goodner offers eight standard flavors (including Camp Marshmallow, Brown Sugar Brie and Hot Fuzz, roasted peaches with charred jalapenos) and four flavors in rotation, as well as apple pies, bourbon chocolate pies and a third ever-changing pie. $ L D LUEBERRY ACAI & SUPERFOODS 808 E. Market St., 742-0640. This café serves açai bowls topped with things like goji berries, banana, chia, strawberries and coconut. Smoothies and other healthful options also available. $$ BLD LULU'S FROZEN YOGURT 1501 Bardstown Rd., 4582322. Lulu’s has been holding down the fort at the corner of Eastern Pkwy., for a while now, offering loaded frozen yogurt with a fully stocked toppings bar–jimmies, nuts and sauces–as well as flash-frozen nitro ice cream. $ LD MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NO BAKED COOKIE DOUGH 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 708-2656. The eggless cookie dough is scooped into cones or cups, and toppings can be added. Like an ice cream shop — only….with cookie dough. $ L D h NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true — bacon. $ B NORTH LIME DONUTS 1228 S. Seventh St., 398-5739. This Lexington-based bakery has renovated a 19thcentury factory building into a warm and inviting space to eat their made-on-premises donuts on the western edge of Old Louisville. Some of their unusual flavors: blueberry cheesecake, French toast and pumpkin cream cheese. $ B Lf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner


Guide_SPR19_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 2/28/19 9:37 AM Page 81

PANCHITOS ICE CREAM 8112 Preston Hwy, 890-3935, 2245 Bardstown Rd., 749-2375. Lexington-based Panchito’s now has two outlets in Louisville, offering Mexican ice cream, popsicles (paletas), tacos, quesadillas and other Mexican snacks. The new Highlands outpost is in the former Bánh Mi Hero building. $ L D PEARL STREET TREATS 301 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-8850. An invigorating walk across the Big Four Bridge will bring you down very close to this family-run frozen yogurt shop that also serves soup, chili, cookies, popcorn, and frozen dog treats. Novelty soda flavors in the cooler, but they will refill your water bottle for free. $LD PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B RAWNAISSANCE DESSERTS 1759 Bardstown Rd., 4243638. Owner Barbora Shneydman offers “guilt-free” dessert concoctions, a variety of chocolate and fruit truffles, and cakes made with raw vegan ingredients. Everything is free of sugar, grains, soy, dairy and eggs. $ LD SCARLET'S BAKERY 741 E. Oak St., 290-7112. Scarlet’s is a pleasant example of the new energy happening in the Smoketown/Shelby Park neighborhood. On the menu: cinnamon rolls, donut bites, muffins and apple turnovers, along with cakes, brownies and cookies. Also lunch items like stromboli and grilled sandwiches. $ B L

h

SNOWHAT 3801 Poplar Level Rd., 742-6080. After a hot day at the zoo, stop by this New Orleans-style snoball shop for a cooling cone. Blueberry and strawberry flavors, and for the more adventurous: lavender lemonade, watermelon basil and jalapeño margarita. $ L D STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ STEEL CITY POPS 1021 Bardstown Rd., 324-1008, 117 St. Matthews Ave., 473-5350. This Alabama-based chain bills itself as a “gourmet healthy popsicle business,” with its cooling treats made from certified organic ingredients with no artificial flavors or colors. $ L D h SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by midmorning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little halfpints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET FROG 1401 Veterans Parkway Ct., Clarksville IN, 725-7765. The hook here is a wall of live-culture selfserve yogurt dispensers. A toppings bar includes sprinkles, chocolate and butterscotch sauces, graham crackers — and on and on. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana homestyle bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts. $$ h f SWEETS BY MORGAN 533 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 644-4276. Owner Morgan Coomer is dedicated to scratch baking and using real butter in her icings. Expect the usual sweet bakery items like cookies and cupcakes, along with clever specialties. $ B L D THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business,

this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 4097484.$ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B

for a vegetarian & vegan friendly lunch or a quick coffee and cinnamon roll, all made in-house. $ MCQUIXOTE BOOKS & COFFEE 1512 Portland Ave., 530-9658. Located in the sprawling Tim Faulkner Gallery, itself a hipster arts hub, this bookstore also has a coffee shop-café that serves higher-end coffee and teas, a selection of sandwiches, pastries and house-made vegan ice cream. $ B L D MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $f

BEAN 1138 Goss Ave., 785-4079. $ B L

PLEASE & THANK YOU 800 E. Market St., 553-0113, 2341 Frankfort Ave., 432-8614, 252 E. Market St., 9386423. The quick success of their NuLu coffee house that serves breakfast, lunch, and an eclectic selection of vinyl records, led to expansion into Crescent Hill and most recently another store on Market Street closer to downtown. $ B L f

BLACKBEARD ESPRESSO 718 W. Main St., 618-0004. Former food truck Blackbeard Espresso now has a Main St. storefront, taking over from Mrs. Potters. Look for coffee, hot and cold teas, milkshakes and smoothies, which the truck’s limited generator couldn’t handle. Baked goods include muffins and scones for those who need a carb lift with their caffeine. $ B L

QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426, 802 E. Main St., 473-5379, 117 St. Matthews Ave., 242-8608. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the four locations. $ pf

COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f

RED HOT ROASTERS 1399 Lexington Rd., 569-0000, 1007 E. Main St. The original drive-through joint moved across Lexington Rd. to larger quarters, and now an actual sit-and-sip coffeehouse has opened in the Butcher Block development on Main St. Owner Sondra Powell houses the business’s roasting operations there and has expanded food offerings along with indoor and outdoor café seating. $

BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $

THE COFFEE ZONE 1301 Herr Ln. (Westport Village), 785-4676. North Carolinian transplant Craig Bishop has established a beachhead in Louisville. In his Westport Village store he features bakery items, such as pastries, and assorted sandwiches along with good java. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ h f FANTE'S COFFEE 2501 Grinstead Dr., 454-0543. Owner Leo Fante has been in the coffee business most of his life, and has finally opened his own shop across the road from Cherokee Park. Fante imports his beans from small suppliers around the world, and roasts on premise. There is also a limited menu of sandwiches, soups and salads, and breakfast pastries. $ B L D pf HEINE BROTHERS’ COFFEE (16 locations) Heine Bros. continues their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ h fe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ h f HIGHVIEW ICE CREAM & COFFEE 7525 Outer Loop, 618-3809. This suburban oasis offers coffee and specialty coffee drinks made from Sunergos beans and serves locally-made Bernoulli Small Batch Ice Cream. $ B LDh KOLKIN COFFEE 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0593. This family run caffeine dispensary on the north side of New Albany serves coffee from Sunergos roastery in a cheerful, inviting environment. $ LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L M+A+F GALLERY & CAFÉ 976 Barret Ave., 558-3031. Both an art gallery and coffee house, M+A+F has positioned itself as a quiet and esthetically pleasing spot

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

SAFAI COFFEE 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. This casual spot boasts the ambience of a friendly oldfashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, housemade crepes, and roasted-on-site coffee. $ B L f SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (40+ locations) $ f STARLIGHT COFFEE CO. 3131 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 542-1522. This sister outlet to Bean Street Coffee also produces high quality joe to those on the upper fringes of New Albany. In both you can find all the popular varieties of coffee and chai, as well as baked goods from Adrienne’s in Jeffersonville. $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 5893222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ THE SWORD & THE SCONE TEA PARLOR & BOUTIQUE 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 907-0018. This tea room in J’town serves a wide variety of teas, tisanes and blooming teas, pastries, sandwiches and salads. Stop by for an afternoon tea, or go all the way with a high tea, just like the Dowager Lady Violet. Available for parties and showers too. $ L D VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, Owned by Heine Bros. this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f WILD DOG ROSE TEA BOUTIQUE 1570 Bardstown Rd., 996-7440. You can find all things New Age at this tea and book shop. In addition to dozens of teas, Wild Dog Rose stocks crystals, essential oils, books and baked goods such as scones, tea-infused truffles and muffins. Tea sold by the cup, or in bulk, and can be customblended to suit a customer’s preferences. $ B

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019

81


MAP INDEX

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 82

MAP # DIRECTION DOWNTOWN 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel

82 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com

PAGE #

84 85 86 87

MAP # DIRECTION EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder

PAGE #

88 89 90 90

MAP # DIRECTION WEST 9 west louisville NORTH EAST 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge

PAGE #

91

91 91 92


MAP # DIRECTION SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 15 clarksville INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

MAP INDEX

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 83

PAGE #

93 94 95 95

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 83


DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 84

84 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com


(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

MAP • 2

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 85

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 85


(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

MAP • 3

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 86

86 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com


(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

MAP • 4

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 87

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 87


(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

MAP • 5

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 88

88 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com


(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

MAP • 6

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 89

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 89


MAP • 8

(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

MAP • 7

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 90

90 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com


MAP • 11

(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

MAP • 10

(WEST) WEST LOUISVILLE

MAP • 9

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 91

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 91


(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

MAP • 12

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 92

92 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com


(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

MAP • 13

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 93

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 93


(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 94

94 Spring 2019 www.foodanddine.com


MAP • 16

(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

MAP • 15

Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 95

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2019 95


Maps_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 2/28/19 9:40 AM Page 96


Cover Pages_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 2/28/19 10:31 AM Page 3


Cover Pages_Spring19_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 2/28/19 10:31 AM Page 4