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of lamb or a choice of prime steak, including Wagyu tenderloin. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight; it is noisy; but the food is consistently excellent. Chef McClain Brown has added to classic menu items that regulars love while gradually introducing some new cooking techniques. $$$$ L D hpe LA CHASSE 1359 Bardstown Rd., 822-3963. Chef Alexander Dulaney and partner Isaac Fox, veterans of Le Relais and Volare, aim for the ambience of a fine European country inn at the space that for many years was Palermo Viejo. The frequently-changing menu always includes some game dishes (rabbit, pheasant, elk), harder-to-find items like sweetbreads and octopus, and unusual salads. $$$$ D hp LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus, which change monthly. Recent items: pimento cheese wontons, veal scaloppini over homemade linguini, and a Farmer’s Plate built around a mushroom ricotta stuffed eggplant. $$$$ Br L D p MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Owner Edward Lee has made the downstairs space at Actors Theatre a dining destination. The menu, now under the control of Glenn Dougan, blends Asian and Southern influences (smoked chicken wings, pimento cheese with spoonbill caviar, ramen noodles with shiitake and country ham) and has received national attention. $$$ D p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. The dark, quiet, elegant formal Oakroom at the Seelbach has been a destination dining spot since F. Scott Fitzgerald ate there. The AAA 5-star rating since 1998 has been a draw, of course, but locals go for the sumptuous brunch and the seasonal menu, now overseen by Nick Sullivan, who came over from 610 Magnolia. Recent items: truffle gnocchi, “southern-fried” rabbit, pan-roasted halibut. $$$$ Br D pe RIVUE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239. The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. Chef Dustin Willet’s upscale menu adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to the namesake the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WARD 426 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. In this refurbished, elegant, warm fine dining space, chef Shawn Ward’s lunch and dinner menus feature regional American fare with a Southern twist. Among the dishes winning raves: gnudi in Parmesan broth, duck confit over sweet potato hash, butter-poached short rib and an interesting range of vegetarian choices. Shrimp and grits, of course, and a country ham tasting platter. $$$$ L D hpf Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. Both the original suburban, and the sleek downtown outlets of this successful upscale steak and oyster concept offer splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience. $$$$ L D hp

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2016 49

Winter 2016 (Vol. 54)  

Nov - Dec - Jan 2016/17