recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites
BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
s ’ e r a l Vo Osso Buco Milanese Osso Buco: In the dialect of Milan, its name means “bone with a hole,” a literal translation that’s factually accurate but that falls well shor t of fully describing this succulent Nor thern Italian comfort food. Like many comfort-food dishes, it’s a relatively simple dish to prepare, but one that requires long, slow cooking in moist heat, tightly covered in a moderate oven so the flavors of veal, vegetables and herbs will gently blend as the veal approaches falling-apart tenderness. The veal hind shank — sliced from the calf ’s hind leg — starts as a tough cut, but “It turns, when done, into one of the most tender morsels of meat one can eat,” says Italian cookery guru Marcella Hazan in her The Classic Italian Cookbook. “A properly cooked osso buco needs no knife; it can be broken up with a fork.”
At Louisville’s Volare Italian Ristorante, Chef Dallas McGarity cooks his osso buco for a full five hours, simmering gently until it almost falls apart when you look at it. Hazan’s traditional recipe calls for two hours for the standard version with tomatoes, 2 to 21/2 hours for the alternate white osso buco, a more delicate dish gently flavored with gremolata, an aromatic blend of parsley, garlic and lemon zest. McGarity says he offers the white version as an occasional special dish; the red enjoys a permanent spot on the menu, where it’s one of Volare’s most popular dishes. “It’s traditional, it’s simple, and people like it,” he said.“And you don’t usually make it at home.” This easy recipe may change that. McGarity usually makes it in batches of 28 at a time.This cut-down version serves two, and may easily be doubled for four.