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SUMMER 2012 | MAY - JUNE - JULY

profiles winston’s|the silver dollar|anchorage café peng looi|casey broussard|andy myers

restaurant guide

over 1,000 restaurant listings and maps to them all

(pictured) Winston’s summer salad of fresh fruits and vegetables.

plus sweet tea|humor|6 wines under $12 louisville’s brewhouses|$10 challenge

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WE MEAN BUSINESS

502 217 6360 702 W Main St : Louisville KY : 40202 proofonmain.com

Located at A proud stop along the Urban Bourbon Trail


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SUMMER 2012 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOHN CARLOS WHITE BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH ASSOCIATE EDITOR STEVE COOMES COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR ASHLEE CLARK JAY FOREMAN GREG GAPSIS SCOTT HARPER DAVID LANGE ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS BILL DOOLITTLE GREG GAPSIS J. CHRISTIAN WALSH KATY YOCOM CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE BART WHITEHOUSE IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

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Annual Subscription rate $18. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 or call (502) 509-EATS (3287) or subscribe online at

www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine follow us on Twitter @FDzine For Advertising information call (502) 509-EATS (3287) ON THE COVER: Winston’s summer salad of fresh fruits and vegetables. (see story page 26) Photo by Dan Dry 4

Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com


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contents

SUMMER 2012 - VOLUME 36

RESTAURANT GUIDE

56

DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

90

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.

36

FEATURE

18

CHEF Q & A Three chefs — Peng Looi, Casey Broussard and Andy Myers — share their cooking philosophies and life outside restaurants.

26

PROFILES

26

WINSTON’S Sullivan instructor John Castro’s knack for developing talent.

36

ANCHORAGE CAFÉ A neighborhood café spreads its creative wings.

48

THE SILVER DOLLAR

18

A real-live honky-tonk in a reemerging urban setting.

COLUMNS STARTERS

48

8

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

12

HUMOR So, I’m opening a restaurant.

FOOD $10 CHALLENGE:

Annie Cafe

34

A Vietnamese, neighborhood spot that fits the bill.

LIQUIDS HIP HOPS:

The state of Louisville brewing

14

A Derby 138 Louisville craft brewery overview.

TEA:

16

Southern sweet tea

The “house wine of the south” takes center stage.

34

CORK 101:

Six white wines under $12

44

Noteworthy whites for a bargain price. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012

5


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starters comings & goings

comings

&

goings

Twenty-nine new restaurants have opened in the Louisville area — in just the past three months . Twenty-four are brand-new, while five are additional outlets of existing ones . In contrast, only five restaurants have closed. This is the highest opening-to-closing ratio we have seen in several years, which begs the question: Just how much supply can this market sustain? What we know for certain is Louisville diners have a richer range of choices than ever.

OPENINGS Some truly significant start-ups to consider: In 2009, Fernando Martinez sold his interest in Havana Rumba and Mojito Tapas Restaurant, among the first eateries to bring Cuban cuisine to the area, to pursue business interests in South America and the Caribbean. For the last two years he worked in the Miami area with Douglas Rodriguez, the “godfather” of Nuevo Latino cuisine to polish his chops for the opening of Guaca-Mole, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd. This handsome and comfortable space is in a former Shoney’s, where Martinez is serving “creative Mexican” cuisine with contemporary twists on traditional dishes. The operating trio behind Doc Crow’s — Brett Davis and Steven and Michael Ton — and their investors have launched La Coop: Bistro a Vins, 732 E. Market St. (formerly home to 732 Social). Bobby Benjamin left The Oakroom to become executive chef here and has created a French bistro-style menu. The newly renovated space captures the casual elegance and camaraderie of a Parisian bistro. Decca, 812 E. Market St., fills in a small gap between the concentration of places in the midst of NuLu and that outlier, Rye, at 900 East Market. Like Rye, Decca is in a heavily rehabbed older building; in this case, once the home of Wayside Christian Mission. With upper and lower decks, and a basement lounge for live entertainment, there is plenty of room for relaxing and eating. San Francisco chefs Annie Pettry and Loretta Keller are, of course, committed to using local food whenever possible. But recent menus have included duck liver terrine with cherry mostarda, spaghettini with California sea urchin and milk-braised pork with collard greens. Right in the middle of Fourth St. lies the Hyatt Regency, which has lacked a signature restaurant equaling the quality of those at nearby hotels. But that changed April 20, as extensive renovations of its street-level interior and exterior resulted in the introduction of Sway, an ambitious new entry to the hotel dining scene. The handsomely redone dining area is complemented by a glass-walled bar area that opens onto the Fourth St. pedestrian scene. Early items on the “Southern way” menu (hence, “Sway”) include black-eyed pea soup with Andouille sausage, southernfried chicken, Cobb salad and fresh-fried pork rinds. Matthew Antonovich and Michael Cooper, co-owners of Mozz on Market St., have opened Mozzaria Italian Eatery in the 8

Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

former home of Red Star Tavern in the center of Fourth Street Live. There Antonovich will ratchet back a bit from the sophisticated Northern Italian style of Mozz, and focus on contemporary takes on traditional Italian-American dishes. Look for comfort food pastas in the style of New York’s Little Italy, with lighter chicken, beef and seafood dishes from the grill. At the north end of the Fourth Street Live complex, Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant now occupies most of the space left by Borders Books. The mid-size chain specializes in German-style lagers, pilsners, bocks and wheat beers in its brewery operations, and its kitchens serve up a long menu of appetizers, soups and salads, sandwiches, pizzas, pastas, steak, burgers and, inevitably, lobster mac ‘n’ cheese. The St. Charles Exchange, 113 S. Seventh St., opened on Derby Eve. Part of the Brown-Forman-owned building has been renovated into a casually elegant facsimile of a 1900s-era hotel lobby bar. The food concept is a revival of early 20th-century high end food — Delmonico steaks, lobster Thermidor, that sort of thing. A couple of new places that might interest the college crowd — or anyone who thinks young: Green Leaf Natural Vegetarian Bistro has opened at 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., joining the Mexican, burger and pizza places in the new U of L complex at the Third St. intersection. All those beach volleyball players at Baxter Jack’s won’t have far to go to refresh themselves after tough games: The Brewery, across the street from the volleyball cour ts at 426 Baxter Ave., has reopened with its original owners and operating partner Kevin Daley. Also, Apocalypse Brew Works will be creating enough beer to drink to the end of the world, as its slogan suggests. The brewhouse is at 1612 Mellwood Ave. Louisvillians’ lust for sushi seems never ending — at least if you count the number of sushi-focused restaurants still opening here. The latest to join the fray are Arata Sushi at 9207 U.S. 42 in Prospect, and Dancing Sushi Japanese Steakhouse at 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., in addition to the new second location of Kansai at 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. Across the river, Jeffersonville saw the opening of three new eateries: Mike & Matt’s, a down-home Amish country-style food place (2835 Holmans Ln.), Achilles Pizza, at 1730 Williamsburg Sq., and Boardwalk Fresh Burgers & Fries at 2909 E. Tenth St. Wingstop is now serving its nine varieties of chicken wings in Louisville at 4812 Dixie Hwy. Feast BBQ is smoking at 116 W.


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I N S P I R E D

D I N I N G

Wiltshire On Market

Main St. in New Albany, and Zoup!, a chain serving a variety of soups, including vegetarian and dairy-free, has a new downtown Louisville addition at 318 S. Fourth St. Café Aroma serves Mexican food at 2295 Lexington Rd., and you can now find Hispanic-style seafood at El Marlin Seafood Restaurant, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., where Coco Lokos had a good run, but came up short. Perhaps a new trend can be seen with the opening of four places to get coffee, donuts, bagels and cupcakes. Two chains, Bruegger’s Bagels and Dunkin’ Donuts have opened at 119 Breckenridge Ln. and 1250 Bardstown Rd., respectively. Main Street Coffee and Deli is brewing joe at 217 E. Main St. in Louisville, and Rudolph’s Bakery & Coffee Shop is baking daily at 1888 Blackiston Mill Rd. in Clarksville. Mark’s Feed Store, which had been holding tight to its little smoking empire, opened its fifth location, the first in a long while, at 6501 Bardstown Rd. Heine Brothers Coffee now has nine locations, with its new store at 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy. Rocky’s Sub Pub opened a second store at 3022 Bardstown Rd., and Diamond Pub & Billiards is racking them up at a second location, 630 Barret Ave. Patrick O’Shea’s, 123 W. Main St., rehabbed its building’s funky basement into a bar and entertainment area called “The Cellar at Patrick O’Shea’s.” And Frascelli’s has moved from 6010 Crestwood Station in Crestwood into Louisville proper, at 4113 Murphy Lane.

CLOSINGS

D I N I N G

A N D

C A T E R I N G

www.WiltshireOnMarket.com Evenings Thursday-Sunday Seasonal menu changes weekly 636 East Market Street Reservations suggested 502.589-5224 10 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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The very short list of closings begins with a somewhat ignominious closure: “Papa John” Schnatter’s Calistoga Bakery Café, at 4000 Dutchman’s Ln. Also on Dutchman’s Ln., The Tilted Kilt at 6201 folded up its servers’ tartan miniskirts and left after about a year here. In Clarksville, Stevie B’s Burger & Fries, 1401 Veterans’ Pkwy., is the first restaurant on that corridor to fold. And MozzaPi’s high hopes for a permanent brick-and-mortar location at 1015 Bardstown Rd. never occurred. Five Guys Burgers and Fries at 4320 Charlestown Rd. in New Albany is closed, and Ernesto’s is now down to a single restaurant after closing at 10430 Shelbyville Rd. And finally, The Bodega at 829 E. Market St. in NuLu has shuttered. F&D


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humor

so,

BY JAY FOREMAN

I’m opening

a restaurant

My wife and I are preparing to open our own bakery and café. A pastry chef with aspirations, Megan has grown increasingly weary of cheffing for the Man. And I am always looking for new comic material, so owning a bakery should be a perennial font of inspiration and general hilarity. There is even an equation for it. If we transpose the old adage “Comedy = Tragedy + Time” into a bakery-type situation, then it becomes “Cake Pops + Bone-Crushing Debt = Mirth.” See? The shovel hasn’t even hit the dirt yet and I’m able to spout out a column. Speaking of spouting, the next time you are engaged in light conversation, mention that someone you know is considering opening up a restaurant. I will bet you anything their response will be “Did you know that 90% of restaurants fail in the first year?” I have come to learn that statement is utterly inevitable. It just gets shrieked out like a parrot asking for a cracker when the topic of restaurant ownership rears its ugly head. True, the numbers in the ratio might vary between “70% in the first 10 years” to “345% in the first 30 minutes,” but the point is that everyone seems compelled to offer some statistic for failure. It is as if once the door opens the place gets hit by a comet, swallowed by a sinkhole, or goes up in a sheet of flames. But I have two questions about that undead nugget of industry analysis. First off, from whence doth it come? Everyone cites it, yet nobody knows the source. My second question is what business is not difficult? I can’t recall any business owner who described his job as a “Total layup. Easy money. Highly recommended.” If someone can point me toward a job like that please let me know because I want in, but in my experience this is typically the type of claim made by online banner ads featuring swelling cartoon dogs made out of low interest rates or pleas to help recover oil fortunes currently being held in Nigerian banks. Owning your own business is supposed to be hard. And lest you think a mere food writer cannot tackle a challenge like this, au contraire. Of course I understand that this business comes with its own intense physical demands, long hours, and running a kitchen that, in terms of sheer chaos, closely resembles the swimming pool scene from the movie Gremlins where Spike jumps into the water and thousands of tiny monsters explode out and overrun the town. And that is precisely why my wife is going to be the chef. Wait — I never said that. If it has prepared me for nothing else — and likely, it hasn’t — then food writing has allowed me to press my face against the professional glass of New Orleans’ best kitchens and speak frankly with the chefs, cooks and personalities behind the swinging doors. And I do recognize that we are choosing the darker, more difficult path. But what is the choice, 12 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com


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really? We could remain in our jobs, reasonably secure but utterly unfulfilled, or we could take this chance. And with her professional experience and my strong editing skills, it is one which (we hope) is reasonably informed. Because we are not getting any younger and if we are serious about making a move, we need to do it soon. But from the get-go I recognize that this is not the easy way, nor is it for the faint of heart. How to put this? Perhaps this little parable will illustrate best: Here in New Orleans we have a swanky private establishment called the Orleans Club where the wealthy ladies of Uptown society gather to play bridge and talk about everyone else’s business. I’m sure you have one of those in Louisville, too — every city does. A few weeks back the guy from Terminix came by our house for our quarterly treatment. He noticed the blueprint for our proposed café and bakery on our table and we got to talking about the restaurant business. It was then I learned something fascinating about our bug guy. “Yeah, I used to be the executive chef over at the Orleans Club,” he told me as he hunched down to squirt roach bait into the dark recesses of the cabinet under our sink. “Really?” I asked, fascinated. “How come you are doing this now?” “Our pest control guy hired me away. He came into the kitchen when I was at an emotional low point, he gave me his card, and he said Terminix was hiring and offered free training. I tell you what — it was the best move that I ever made. The pay is better, the hours are better, and I don’t have to put up with any more of that bullshit.” This exchange, more than anything, offers far more insight into the reality of the business — far more than the hoary old “90% of Restaurants Fail” blanket statement. And, frankly, it should have filled me with fear. Clearly, if exterminators can lure top talent away from the kitchen, maybe the glamour I imagined was somehow lacking. And if I didn’t have a sense of humor, and if my regular job had not already cut me back to three days a week, maybe I would have heeded this as a warning rather than with detached bemusement. Because now it is too late. After seven months of lease negotiations, we signed on the line last week and this project is running on greased rails. I’m hanging on for the ride of my life. But I’m also hanging on to the Terminix card, just in case. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 13


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liquids hip hops

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

hen the Super Bowl took place in Indianapolis this past February, Hoosier craft brewers seized an unprecedented opportunity to strut their stuff in front of an entire nation’s media while tending to the beer consumption needs of throngs descending on the capital. The experience illustrated that while Bud Light Platinum flaunts glitzy television ads, the real beer action is grassroots in craft beer’s power to innovate, localize and refresh. Craft beer thrives within a community context, reducing globalization to the contents of carry-out growlers — and the Mad Men need not apply. The Kentucky Derby has taken place right here in Louisville every year since 1875. From 1979 through 1992 there was no locally brewed beer to celebrate the Run for the Roses, but when Sea Hero captured the race in 1993, a few hardy and pioneering microbrew fans could be found drinking Silo Red Rock Ale. Later that fall, Bluegrass Brewing Company was founded, and there Louisville’s present-day craft beer story really begins.

The state of

louisville brewing

W

Bluegrass Brewing Company David Pierce left the Silo after a year to help the Hagan family open BBC’s original Shelbyville Road location. Among the many beers Pierce introduced during his 16-year tenure at BBC was Dark Star Porter, named for the 1953 Derby winner. He began BBC’s tradition of Bourbon-barrel aging, for which BBC is the most recognized regional practitioner. In 2011 local beer geeks became very excited when former Dogfish Head brewer Jeremy Hunt came to BBC. BBC’s on-premise locations now include two brewpubs and a third non-brewing restaurant, each with a full selection of BBC drafts, bottles and growlers for carry-out, and diverse chef-driven food menus with classic brewpub burgers, salads, wings, nachos and

pizza. There’s also a BBC production brewery at the Beer Corner of Clay & Main, where brewer Joel Halbleib oversees the brewing and packaging of BBC beers for outside distribution. It has a tap room but no kitchen; you can bring your own food or have some delivered from nearby eateries. Cumberland Brews The late 1990s saw a handful of Louisville brewing start-ups, but none lasted until 2000 and the advent of Cumberland Brews, with its impossibly small 2-barrel brewhouse. There’s now a larger Cumberland brewing plant nearby, but nothing much else has changed, especially the company’s home-grown, hands-on approach as a true “neighborhood” restaurant and brewery. In addition to brewer Cameron Finnis’s beer staples, like Cream Ale,

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Pale Ale and Nitro Porter, Cumberland Brews offers daily food specials, seafood, bison, and reliable vegetarian options. Against the Grain In 2011, Against the Grain inherited the stunning tower brewery within the walls of Louisville Slugger Field, once used by the defunct Browning’s Brewery. In a city filled with onetime BBC employees, Against the Grain surely has the most, including head brewer Jerry Gnagy, owners, chefs, managers and bottle washers. They have created an edgy, innovative vibe. Against the Grain keeps it both simple and complicated, all at once, by offering six broad beer flavor categories: Session, Hop, Whim, Malt, Dark, and Smoke. The house beers brewed to fit these categories change constantly. In essence, each brew is a new beer, and every one is a specialty. You’ll see classic styles and boundary-breaking experiments. Against the Grain’s kitchen holds a mirror to its brewery, and often elects to smoke what it sees reflected: Smokehouse staples like pulled pork and smoked wings, and also vegetarian and vegan options (seitan wings, anyone?), also frequently smoked. New Albanian Brewing Company In spite of his strident reputation, the author is modest, and seeks always to avoid the temptation to prattle about his own business.That said, I have a nice, chilled Miller Lite for us to share while noting NABC’s two locations in New Albany, located minutes across the Ohio River in Southern Indiana: The original Pizzeria & Public House on the north side, and Bank Street Brewhouse, a gastropub in the city’s revitalizing downtown. First as Sportstime Pizza, then adding Rich O’s Public House, NABC has been in business since 1987. Brewing began in 2002, and with the addition of Bank Street’s larger system in 2009 — Pierce returned to Indiana shores to wield the malt shovel — it has escalated. Hoptimus, Elector and Yakima are the top brands, and other earlier beerfriendly components like the Pizzeria & Public House’s guest beer list, rated in the top ten nationwide by RateBeer.com in early 2012, have been retained. Falls City Brewing Company From its inception in 1905 to closure in 1978, Falls City was a regional old-school brewing legend. Later it was contract-brewed elsewhere, and eventually became a synonym for “budget brand” before disappearing. In 2009, a new chapter began when David Easterling acquired the brand and

began a long-term revival. Falls City’s reformulated flagship beer, an English-style Pale Ale, is brewed and packaged outside of Louisville, but in 2012, the cur tain will rise on a 7-barrel brewery inside the Falls City tasting room at 545 Barret Avenue. Easterling hopes to be brewing seasonals and specialties in time for Derby, and selling them at the tasting room. BJ’s and Biersch There is one national “chain” brewpub in Louisville, and another about to arrive. Clever progenitor of many a raised eyebrow (“My husband just loves BJ’s”), BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse does not brew at 7900 Shelbyville Road (Oxmoor Center), but rather ships in-house beers from facilities out West. Downtown, work has started on a Gordon Biersch outlet at Fourth Street Live. The food and beer themes at Biersch primarily are German, and trade journal want ads for brewers suggest that the Helles, Bock and HefeWeizen will be brewed on site. Apocalypse Brew Works In an era of ancient Mayan prophecies, it will come as no surprise that 2012 is the year of the Apocalypse: Apocalypse Brew Works, a small brewery and taproom under construction at 1612 Mellwood Avenue. Founders Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth are homebrewing lifers, promising 10 beer styles on tap, ranging from classic to experimental. Apocalypse hopes to be operational by early May. F&D Against the Grain (502) 515-0174 Apocalypse Brew Works 1612 Mellwood Ave. (502) 589-4843 Bank Street Brewhouse 415 Bank St. (812) 725-9585 Bluegrass Brewing Company 3929 Shelbyville Rd. (502) 899-7070 660 S. Fourth St. (502) 568-2224 300 W. Main St. (502) 562-0007 636 E. Main St. (502) 584-2739 BJ’s Brewhouse 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (502) 326-3850 Cumberland Brews 1576 Bardstown Rd. (502) 458-8727 Falls City Brewing Company 545 Barret Ave. (502) 410-3315 Gordon Biersch 400 S. Fourth St. (502) 589-8935 New Albanian Brewing Company 3312 Plaza Dr. (812) 944-2577 401 E. Main St.

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 15


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liquids tea

BY DAVID LANGE

sweet tea house wine of the south

I

It starts making its appearance as you cross that mythical, yet definitive, boundary that is the acclaimed Gateway to the South — the Mason-Dixon line. It is found in the land where the term “y’all” permeates every conversation; where Alabama and Georgia football games are considered national holidays; and where honey is the only thing that can accompany butter on biscuits. You have encountered the house wine of the south: sweet tea. Sweet tea, that clear, orange-to-red tinted elixir, is brewed long and strong to hold up to the assault that will come when introduced to 11/2 or more cups of sugar per gallon. Then it is served in a tall glass, crammed full of ice cubes that crackle and sizzle when the tea is poured over them. When I say “sweet tea,” I really mean “sweet.” Some of the sweetest tea can reach 22 Brix of sugar. That means that 22 per cent of the liquid consists of dissolved sugar solids — twice what you would find in a can of Coke. Even with that teeth-numbing sugar content, the result is balanced, flavorful and refreshing. Southerners seem to have a fascination for sugar in almost everything. For proof, there is their obsession with pecan pie and pralines that can make a dentist cringe. Coca-Cola, Pepsi, and Dr. Pepper all originated south of the Mason-Dixon line. Bourbon, the sweetest of whiskies, is the state beverage of Kentucky. In fact, the mint julep is merely a hybrid sweet tea made up of booze, simple syrup, ice and mint. It seems that not just sugar, but ice also was a key component to the evolution of sweet tea. Tea at one time was a delicacy that was enjoyed only by the wealthy. It was this elite class that had access to ice shipped into southern cities from northern lakes prior to the invention of refrigerated icehouses. If ice was a luxury, then putting out an ice-cold pitcher of tea was the pinnacle of hospitality. So sweet tea became one of the South’s most revered traditions. I have friends in New York City who don’t understand the southern tradition of drinking iced tea all year round. But we’ve done it for over a hundred years, since ice became available yearround. Indeed, if you order tea in a restaurant in southeastern 16 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

states, everyone gets a default tea that is syrupy, dark, strong, and icy cold. If you want what the British call a “cuppa,” you have to specify “hot tea.” Most Southerners can easily tell the difference between fresh sweet tea and the ersatz stuff made from concentrate, and unless their “sugar jones” is too strong that day, chances are they will send it back. Recently I have observed that the magical Sweet Tea Line seems to be creeping northward. In my travels I have come upon establishments that offer sweet tea in such non-southern locales as Indianapolis, Columbus, and Chicago. The introduction of sweet tea by McDonald’s last year has brought out the southern soul of countless non-believers. When it’s time to make your own sweet tea, don’t make the mistake a restaurant in Boston did. Upon ordering a glass of sweet


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tea, I first got an hypnotic stare, followed by an emphatic shrug, and was brought a glass of ice, a jar of instant Nestea, three sugar packets and a pot of hot water. The optimum ratio of sugar to tea varies, getting sweeter as you travel deeper into the South. I have seen recipes that call for one cup of sugar for every gallon of tea up to two cups or more for the same amount of tea. Many restaurants use a super-fine sugar that dissolves more quickly into the tea. I approve of the recent trend of restaurants serving small cruets of simple syrup along with the tea, allowing patrons to make the tea as sweet as they wish. Simple syrup is easy to make and can be used to sweeten any size of iced tea, from a glass to a pitcher, and is essential to making mint juleps, as well. SIMPLE SYRUP 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup water In a small saucepan, bring water and sugar to a boil, stirring often. When sugar is completely dissolved, remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Place in a clean glass container and refrigerate for up to one week. Another interesting way to sweeten tea is with flavored Italian syrups. Brands such as Torani, Monin or DaVinci introduce citrus, berry and tropical flavors to the iced tea base. A few things to remember when brewing tea: To insure quality, do not store brewed tea overnight. Brew tea fresh each day. If making traditional iced tea (without a brewing machine), do not bring water to a full boil. Never use a coffee pot for tea. Any item previously used for brewing or storing coffee will contaminate tea. Also, avoid placing brewed tea into the refrigerator, as it will immediately cloud. “Sun tea� (cold-brewing tea in a glass receptacle on a sunny shelf) has had a run of popularity, but I discourage the practice. Sun tea is the perfect medium for allowing bacteria to grow. If the sun tea has a thick or syrupy appearance, it may be due to the presence of a ropy bacteria called Alcaligenes viscolactis, so I would strongly advise against serving it. As with anything that you make by hand, the most impor tant thing to consider is quality. For the best iced tea, you’ll need the best tea. Stay cool and drink deeply. F&D

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www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 17


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people and places profiles

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF PENG LOOI Age: 51 Current Restaurant: Asiatique and August Moon Chinese Bistro Previous Restaurants: None Neighborhood (current): Brownsboro Road area. “Don’t say Indian Hills. People will think I’m rich.” Hometown: Ipoh, Malaysia Significant Other: Wife, Ling Chiu Kids: Jasmine, 6, and Adam, 4 Favorite Hobbies: “Photography. The photos in August Moon are mine, from my travels.” Favorite Cookbook: None. “But I do read a lot of culinary magazines.” Favorite Kitchen Gadget: Chinese cleaver

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Peng S. Looi came to the United States for a practical education in civil engineering. But memories of the Malaysian cuisine of his childhood and an early passion for cooking pushed that practical career path aside. Instead, with no formal culinary training, he donned a chef ’s jacket and started August Moon 25 years ago in a funky little glassfronted building on Lexington Road. Since then, he’s expanded into upscale dining with Asiatique and moved August Moon to a brand-new building next door to its original digs, rebranding it as a bistro focusing on Chinese-Malaysian fusion. A move to expand into the Cincinnati market didn’t pan out — the Cincinnati Asiatique Bistro and Lounge closed earlier this year — but Peng is still going strong in Louisville and making his presence felt at national and international food festivals.

What is your first food memory? “My grandmother’s and my mother’s cooking: curried chicken, things like that. Every day they’d go to the wet market and buy ingredients. Everything was fresh, fresh, fresh!” Who has influenced your cooking the most? “Not who but where. Malaysia, because it’s a culinary paradise. So many different cuisines. Eating out is a big par t of Malaysian lifestyle — or rather food itself.”

Why did you become a chef? “Growing up, I always enjoyed cooking and eating. I’d hang out and help my mother. I realized it was my passion. I studied at Bellarmine and U of L — civil engineering — but my passion came first.”

What did you want to be when you grew up? [Laughs.] “An Air Force pilot. When you’re growing up, men in military uniform are very glamorous looking.”

What do you aspire to, as a chef? “Making sure my guests are happy and have a great experience, and that my employees are happy coming to work everyday.”

How about for the future? “Maybe writing a cookbook someday. I’d probably call it, if nobody’s taken it yet, ‘Passion for Fusion.’ ” Besides Asiatique and August Moon, what is your favorite restaurant in Louisville? “All my friends’ restaurants. There’s a huge, great rapport among most chefs in this city. But there’s no favorite restaurant [for me]. That’s an honest answer. Certain days I have an urge to eat fried chicken; certain days I have an urge to eat dim sum.” Who are your favorite chefs? “I admire chefs that I know who are not arrogant or egoistic. I’ve met Nobu. He’s a very down-to-earth guy. I’ve met Anthony Bourdain. He’s a straightforward, funny guy. And I’ve met chefs — I’m not giving out names — who are very arrogant.”

What’s your culinary philosophy? “If I read a menu, it’s like reading a poem. It shows me how the chef thinks. And then it comes to production — can they execute it? Some chefs put eight flavors in one dish, and I think, ‘Are you crazy?’ My culinary philo sophy is healthy, fresh ingredients where, when people eat my food, they can taste the different flavors.” Best cooking tip for a novice? “Make sure they understand the ingredients and techniques. And I have a big thing about cutting skills. Learn how to cut before you learn to cook.” Are there any culinary trends you are wild about right now? “The ‘buy local’ thing I think is great. Besides supporting the local farmers, the produce is fresher.” Any you consider overrated? “Molecular. Especially as an older chef. For the younger chefs, especially those who just started, it’s a big thing.” What do you think is the next worthwhile food/dining trend? (See LOOI, page 24)

(below, from left) Asiatique’s hoisin marinated duck with pickled root vegetables and a mango and thyme reduc tion; August Moon’s slow-simmered pork ribs with a tamarind and mango glaze; Street-style Malaysian chicken satay with peanut sauce from August Moon.


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people and places profiles

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF CASEY BROUSSARD Age: 30 Current Restaurant: Wiltshire on Market Previous Restaurants: 610 Magnolia, Proof on Main (briefly), Sideburns (Tampa, FL), Viridian (Washington, D.C.) Neighborhood (current): Jeffersonville, IN Hometown: Tampa, FL Significant Other: Megan Broussard, former pastry chef at Proof on Main Kids: Son Brody, 3 1/2 , and daughter Brynn, 1 1/2 Favorite Hobbies: “Outside of work? Very few. Gardening. Spending time with my wife and kids.” Favorite Cookbook: New World Kitchen, by Norman Van Aken Favorite Kitchen Gadget: Cake tester

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Sit down to talk with Chef Casey Broussard and you notice his easy, casual manner. And yet there’s that pen in his hand that he’s twirling, tapping, clicking. You get the sense that his energy is a little like his hair: It mostly seems tamed, but then there are those stray bits trying their best to break free and go exploring. We sat down with Broussard in the Wiltshire Pantry front office to talk about his passion for food, and discovered a man with a love of sandwiches — and a serious mustard fetish.

What is your first food memory? “I remember cooking lunch for me and my brother. Taking the American cheese slice and throwing it directly on the griddle. I was, like, seven years old.That’s when I knew, too. When I look back, that’s an indicator that I was going to be in the food business.” Who has influenced your cooking the most? “The restaurants and the chefs I’ve worked for. And myself — a lot of self-discovery and exploration.” Why did you become a chef? “Something about my personality flourishes in the kitchen and not anyplace else. I kind of found myself in the kitchen as an adult. It’s pretty wild. It’s not for the very conservative — but I’m definitely not that.” What did you want to be when you grew up?

“That was it. A chef.”

Fill in the blank: If I weren’t a chef, I’d be… “Oh, God. A bartender?”

Who are your favorite chefs? “Michel Richard (Washington, D.C.). Norman Van Aken (Norman’s – S. Florida). Alice Waters (Chez Panisse – Berkeley).”

Besides Wiltshire on Market, what is your favorite restaurant in Louisville? “I don’t get out much, but if I had to name one it would be Taco Punk. I like Gabe [Sowder]. I like his food.”

Which seasonings don’t you respect? “I don’t really like dried herbs. Other than that, I don’t discriminate too much. They all have their places.” Which are underrated? “I like a jerk spice — like, authentic with Scotch bonnets and lots of thyme and allspice and ginger. Not the watered-down American version.” Are there any culinary trends you’re wild about right now? “I’m not a very trendy cook.” Any you consider overrated? “I’m not a big fan of molecular gastronomy. That kind of food does not apply to me at all. I’m a soul cook.” Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home? “I love the frozen pizza dough. We keep a couple cans of decent pizza sauce. We’ve

got a stone. It’s pretty quick and a quarter of the cost of delivery. And hot and fresh.” Your worst kitchen nightmare? “A power outage involving refrigeration. Losing all that inventory.” What do you think is the next worthwhile food/dining trend? “A little bit more casual approach to fine dining. Making it more accessible, not [about] all the embellishments that drive the price up. Giving people the best ingredients without killing them with overhead. That’s a sign of the times — the recession — and I think it’s worthy.” What music was playing in the kitchen last night? “Chaka Khan and Hall and Oates are always on my agenda. Lots of soul.” Best cooking tip for a novice? “Taste. You gotta taste as you go and try to develop your palate. Technique, from books and TV shows. Anywhere you can soak in a bit of knowledge.” (See BROUSSARD, page 24)

(below, from left) Red Tasmanian crab cakes with a broccoli cheddar slaw, potatoes and verjus butter; Kabocha squash risotto with toasted cauliflower, spiced pecans and a pea shoot salad; Harissa-braised Marksbury Farm lamb shank with minted yogurt, Israeli couscous and pickled chayote.


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people and places profiles

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF ANDY MYERS Age: 32 Current Restaurant: Anchorage Café Previous Restaurants: Bellini’s (Lexington, KY), Heirloom (Midway, KY), Jean Farris Winery & Bistro (Lexington) Neighborhood (current): Crescent Hill Hometown: Madisonville, KY Significant Other: Stephanie Myers Kids: A cat named Graham Favorite Hobbies: “I write music. I have a studio, do some composing, kind of mess around in there.” Favorite Cookbook: The French Laundry Cookbook, by Thomas Keller. Boulevard: The Cookbook, by Nancy Oakes. Favorite Kitchen Gadget: “Japanese knives. I’ve got a Moritaka that’s my new favorite.”

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When Food & Dining showed up at the charming 1910 Crescent Hill bungalow that Chef Andy Myers shares with his wife, Myers invited us in, offered a drink, and sat down with us at the dining room table, speaking thoughtfully between sips of Brooklyn Lager from a glass. A trim man with a neat beard, clad in skinny jeans and red polo shirt, his appearance and considered demeanor might suggest he’s the quiet type. But then there’s that guitar propped against the wall in the next room. Turns out Myers has a rock-and-roll past as singer, guitarist, bassist and drummer with Cincinnatibased indie rock band Freddy K.

What is your first food memory? “My mom was an amazing cook. My dad’s a hunter, so she was always cooking wild turkey, quail, elk. Man, she made an awesome wild turkey.” Who has influenced your cooking the most? “Stan Borsik was a young French chef that moved to Lexington from Paris. He taught me the basics of French cooking, but more After meeting this rising-star chef and being introduced to his equally talented cast of other characters at Anchorage Café, we decided you should hear more of the story. See the Anchorage Café profile on page 36.

than that, his overall presence in the kitchen. He had this professionalism about him that opened my eyes.”

listen to is what the guests listen to. On Saturday we were listening to the Velvet Underground and some Kinks.”

Why did you become a chef? “I started out in the restaurant business at 18. At 24 I realized I’m good at this and I really enjoy doing this, and there’s no way I could make a career out of being a musician. Being in a kitchen is similar in that it’s a craft, but you’re also doing something creative.”

Who are your favorite chefs? “Gabrielle Hamilton at Prune in New York. Nancy Oakes at Boulevard. David Chang at Momofuku. And who doesn’t love Thomas Keller?”

What did you want to be when you grew up? “When I was a child I thought I’d be an Olympic diver. When I was a teenager I thought I’d be a musician. I had a brief stint where I thought I’d be a stockbroker.”

What do you aspire to? “To eventually have my own place here in town, something that’ll create an oppor tunity for me to do what I want to do and have fun with it and enjoy my life. You have to start smart. I’d do something more mainstream in the beginning to suppor t something a little more out-there in the end. Something where I can pick my menu out of the garden, write the menu, post it on the web and feed 35 or 40 people with just me and one other cook and a couple of servers.” What music was playing in the kitchen last night? “I like a lot of dirty sixties, seventies punk rock. But I have an open kitchen, so what I

Besides Anchorage Café, what is your favorite restaurant in Louisville? “I really like the Holy Grale. Harvest. Proof.” Which seasonings don’t you respect? “Everything has its place.” Which are underrated? “Parsley. I don’t want to go back to putting huge parsley garnishes on plates, but it’s a great herb with a fantastic flavor profile.” What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen? “I don’t get stressed out. And I’m good at writing menus, coming up with a concept for a dish.” (See MYERS, page 24)

(below, from left) Braised rabbit with English peas, baby carrots, spring onions and mushrooms in rabbit jus; Asparagus with a pan-fried quail egg, Sapori D’Italia Parmesan and country ham; Garey Farms pork belly in brown butter with oyster mushrooms and fennel ragout.


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QA LOOI

(continued from page 19)

&

“Nose-to-tail dining. The costs of proteins are going up, and chefs and suppliers are finding ways to use products that are not mainstream, like using a beef cheek for simmering. I’m very into this nose-totail stuff. I grew up eating it — offals, beef tendon, pig’s stomach, chicken feet.”

What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen? “I was exposed to a lot of cuisines growing up in Malaysia. I lived in England a few years before coming here. It gives me exposure to all the flavors available out there. I always encourage the Sullivan kids [interns] that go through my program to try everything.” What music was playing in the kitchen last night? “None. In the kitchen it’s organized chaos. On my own, acid jazz.” What’s your favorite go-to ingredient? “Ginger and garlic. They’re subtle and aromatic at the same time.” Which seasonings don’t you respect? “We don’t need to use MSG, that’s for sure.” Which are underrated? “Clove and curry leaf, to use in marinades and sauces and simmering.”

BROUSSARD

(continued from page 21)

What’s your downfall? “Sometimes I can take things a little too seriously.”

What’s your favorite go-to ingredient? “Garlic. Or hot chilies.”

Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using? “I used to use instant mashed potato mix for crusts for tuna.”

Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using? “I can’t say that I’m ashamed of anything in my kitchen.” What food is your guilty pleasure? “Little Debbie.” Is there a food you can’t bring yourself to eat? “Fermented beans, Japanese style. And I’m not a lover of tofu. I’m not gonna lie.”

What’s in your fridge at home? “Lots of milk for the babies. About ten different mustards. Some tortillas. We always have one of those nice blocks of Cabot extra-sharp cheddar.” Is there anything in that home fridge you’d rather not admit to having? “The cheap teriyaki sauces that we should just throw away. They’re terrible. My wife likes them.” What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen? “Passion.”

What food is your guilty pleasure? “Offals. I know it’s high cholesterol, but my doctor told me if I eat a lot of vegetables it’ll be okay.”

What do you aspire to? “I want to grow in terms of my own technique and understanding the business aspects of running a restaurant and catering. And the sandwich shop idea. Curing our own meats, fabulous bread. A hot ham and cheese sandwich? Perfect. Simple. That’s all you need to have an awesome experience. And, of course, mustard. Several kinds of mustard.”

Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home? “Chinese-style chicken with ginger and shiitake mushrooms.” What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose? “My favorite childhood street-style dish, a Malaysian spicy noodle soup with mackerel. It’s called laksa.” 24 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

(continued from page 23)

What was the last book you read? “I really enjoy The Lucky Peach, by David Chang. It’s a quarterly magazine.”

What’s in your fridge at home? “Milk, of course, for my kids. A few different types of hot sauce — I love hot sauce. Fresh vegetables, of course. Seafood — I’m crazy about seafood. And all kinds of cheese.”

Is there a food you can’t bring yourself to eat? “None. Like I tell those interns, you need to try everything and not be in a little vanilla box. To be a well-rounded chef, that’s what it takes.”

MYERS

What’s your downfall? “Focus.”

What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose? “Just a delicious hoagie. A two-footer — go out with a bang. And maybe a sixpack.”

What’s in your fridge at home? “Chinese food and pizza.” Is there anything in that home fridge you’d rather not admit to having? “Not really ashamed of anything I eat, aside from the occasional trip to Chick-fil-A.” What food is your guilty pleasure? “Fat-kid food. I like pork belly and hamburger and pizza.” Are there any culinary trends you’re wild about right now? “There’s an anything-goes attitude, and I like that. You can win a James Beard award for Eleven Madison Park, or for gourmet hot dogs.” Any you consider overrated? “Anything that’s going to explore food is good.” Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home? “I’ll roast a whole chicken or pork shoulder and we’ll do tacos, and I’ll get a fake meat product for Stephanie [who’s a vegetarian].” Your worst kitchen nightmare? “Not being prepared. Prepping for 60 people and ending up with 200.” What was the last book you read? “Blood, Bones and Butter, by Gabrielle Hamilton.” Best cooking tip for a novice? “When I first star ted cooking from recipes, I was really into making recipes ‘right.’ Don’t worry about it — play with it and trust your own palate. There are no secret food-snob police out there.” What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose? “A meal prepared by ten of my favorite people: my wife, my mother, a lot of cooks I’ve worked for, my sister-in-law who pushed me to go to culinary school. Those are the guys who’ve fed me, and I’ve loved it.”


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people and places profiles

the

sorcerer apprentices of

I

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

If you check the Internet, reviewers give Winston’s high ratings for an exceptional dining experience in every category — innovative menu, food quality, service, ambience, and a creative, full-service bar. Professionals endorse these opinions, most recently with Distinguished Restaurant of North America (DiRoNA) awards in 2009 and 2010. Impressive, yes, but if one peeks behind the curtain, what makes Winston’s remarkable is consistently achieving such excellence while functioning as the training facility for culinary majors in Sullivan University’s National Institute of Hospitality. How is this possible? It’s daunting to consider a kitchen staff rotating out every 13 weeks who, during their stay, have to hone their skills and succeed in the demanding world of commercial cooking. Chef John Castro

26 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com


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WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Road (502) 456-0980

Seared salmon with grapes, olives, arugula and artichokes, with cilantro chimichurri sauce, preserved lemon and smoked paprika oil.


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Crisp pork belly with corn, lima beans, radish and mango succotash on charred tomato and chile fondue.


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But Winston’s strives for and has developed a habit of excellence. It was recognized in 2007 by the American Culinary Federation as the best teaching restaurant facility in the nation, and yearly remains among the top of its class. Most of this is due to Executive Chef John Castro, who has discovered a way to help Sullivan students realize their strengths and execute at a high level. “It [Winston’s] is the capstone of the two-year program where they put it together, after they have learned all the technical skills,” said Castro, who was lured away from an already distinguished career as a chef at the former Hasenour’s in Louisville, to become an instructor in the culinary program and then head of the restaurant. “Without question, it was the last thing I thought I would do.” What Castro discovered in the process was that he has a knack for developing young chefs — instilling confidence along with an eye for quality and a yen for creative excellence. Like Dumbledore at Hogwarts, he is a sorcerer surrounded by apprentices eager to learn. “What’s great about it is the chance to watch somebody grow and the idea of helping them find their place,” Castro said. At the same time he tries to (right) Roasted impart wisdom that will help them excel beets, toasted goat in a very tough business. cheese and caraway “I want them to get comfortable and tuile, finished with encourage them to use what they have pomegranate learned without fear,” Castro said. “It’s no gastrique and curry longer a lab situation. The pressure is now oil. (below) 18-ounce there as a customer receiving the dish.” New York strip Castro is the first to admit he doesn’t do finished with herb this alone. Front of house is under the butter and served watchful eye of General Manager Mary with frites.


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Wheatley and a service staff that doesn’t rotate, to ensure a high level of menu knowledge and familiarity with customer preferences. In the back, sous chef Tyson Long has developed a good understanding of Castro’s goals and the paths to achieving them, including reviewing and discussing literally hundreds of past recipes from Castro’s 15-year tenure. Long is a Sullivan graduate who interned at locally renowned Jack Fry’s and followed with a three-year stint as sous chef of Juleps Catering before assuming his position at Winston’s. At 24, he both complements Chef Castro as an educator and values the chance to work with him. “Chef Castro knows so much and is so accomplished that students might be shy around him; whereas being younger, they seem more conversational with me, which helps the learning process,” Long said. “And it’s a great opportunity for me to work with him. I learn 10 new things every day. I think it would be a shame if he wasn’t in this position, where he can share his knowledge, personality and experience.”

PRINCIPLES OF SUCCESS Like a litany, Castro can repeat the basics of restaurant success. “Buy good product. Supporting local growers is nice but it has to be a good product. And be aware of sustainability. Chilean sea bass used to be sixty percent of our sales but the day it became an endangered species it came off the menu,” Castro said. “Use good culinary practices and procedures and focus on a clear flavor profile. It’s easy to keep adding things when you cook. The hardest thing to do is cook with restraint. Clarity of flavor is what Tyson and I believe in.” Castro eschews the yelling and histrionics of some TV celebrity chefs. “I might be sardonic or condescending, but I don’t scream; to me it’s a sign of weakness, that you’ve lost control,” Castro said. “I tell them ‘I won’t clap when you poop,’ which means ‘I won’t lie to you’ and I will praise them, reinforce their efforts, thank them for being here. Cooking at this level requires a lot of hard work. Before you perform you have to do hours of prep.” Castro noted there are basic steps he takes to awaken their sensibilities. “Today we live in a culture where most food comes from a bag, box or can. So I want to make sure they get exposed to seeing big gardens, shopping in Asian and Hispanic stores to see the variety of things that 30 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com


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are available,” Castro said. “They have to learn how a ripe tomato looks, feels, smells and tastes. They need to know there are six different kinds of soy sauce out there.”

R O OTS Castro is informed by a perspective of growing up with parents, both healthcare professionals, who came from different cultures and were passionate about food. His father, who was from the Phillipines, loved to cook and his mother, a native of Meade County, Ky., loved to cultivate incredible gardens. “Not just the simple stuff, but interesting variations like bok choy, bitter melon, Ichiban eggplant. It truly was a thing of beauty and between them. Early on they were telling us to ‘go out and pick your dinner,’ ” Castro said. “They were also great entertainers who welcomed a diverse crowd, and a broader world, into our home.” His parents also exposed their children to the niceties of fine dining. “Many don’t realize that Wolfgang Puck got his start in America in Indianapolis. When I was still in middle school we were driving up there sometimes two or three times a week to eat.” Castro also broadened his horizons through travel, like leaving for a stint in Taipei, an experience which still informs his sensibility. “Travel, probably more than any course you can take, broadens your knowledge,” Castro said.

MENU Winston’s is well-known for an inventive and changing menu, making simple categorization difficult. There are international dishes, American classics, Asian fusion, and a solid share of Kentucky-seasoned Southern cooking. Dinner is conveniently divided between small plates and large plates with several attractive salads and half a dozen side dishes as (left) “Mojo Risin’” — complements. seafood, lobster fumé, Large plates ($19 to finished with a mojo $37) include signature sauce. (above) Chefs dishes like chicken adobo, John Castro and Tyson a filet of beef and the Not Long oversee students Brown sandwich, which during dinner prep. plays on a famous Louisville (opposite page, center) original by substituting fried Melon and fruit green tomatoes, shrimp pineapple gazpacho. and crab meat for traditional turkey and ripe www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 31


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tomatoes under a Mornay sauce. Excellent seafood is usually also available as well as good steaks or pork chops. Small plates ($7 to $12) offer smaller portions of the Not Brown, and frequent surprises like seared scallops, striped bass, roast pork, a pumpkin-herbgoat cheese ravioli, or the recent Quebecois specialty, poutine, cooked potatoes covered with meat and cheese curd under gravy. Lunch features smaller servings of both traditional and specialty items, making it an economical opportunity to experience the creativity Winston’s menu offers ($7 to $16). Sunday brunch offers a similar economy without losing any variety. A recent menu’s offerings ranged from a traditional country ham omelet and steak and eggs, to selections like a breakfast panini to whimsical banana split pancakes ($9 to $13). Winston’s is open only three days a week and offers an intimate setting, with 16 tables seating 68. (Special functions, such as the recent wine tasting series, can accommodate up to 128.) Both lunch (11 a.m. to 2 p.m.) and dinner (5:30 to 10 p.m.) are served on Friday and Saturday, and brunch is served from 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sunday. (Call 502-456-0980 for reservations or check www.sullivan.edu/winstons for current menus.) Simply put, if you’re looking for some magic for your palate, Winston’s is easily among the best (and perhaps most affordable) options available. F&D

(right) Winston’s dining room is clean, crisp and comfortable with interesting artwork sprinkled throughout. (opposite, top) Smoked almond chicken salad on pineapple raft. 32 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com


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www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 33


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about food $10 challenge

$10

challenge

BY ASHLEE CLARK | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Annie Cafe Vietnamese restaurant offers warm welcome to south-central Louisville

It’s hard to find a place where everybody knows your name when you’re a vagabond.

I’ve lived in seven different cities since I graduated from high school. By the time I became familiar with my surroundings in one place, it would be time to load up the Mercury Tracer and set up house in a new neighborhood, in a new apartment, with a new roommate. No time to become a regular at a local neighborhood restaurant or bar. But my life has changed in the past few months. I have a roommate for life, aka, my new husband. We rent a house in south-central Louisville, an area in which we’d like to stay for awhile. Even our dog seems OK with his new ’hood. It’s time to adopt a neighborhood favorite as “our spot,” and Annie Cafe is in the running. This Vietnamese restaurant is wedged on a busy block of Woodlawn Avenue between Southern Parkway and South Third Street that also contains Sunergos coffeehouse, a Penn Station sandwich shop, and a grocer that sells hard-to-find items such as camel meat. Annie Cafe stands out for its quiet atmosphere, quick service and consistently good, authentic and inexpensive cuisine. Annie Cafe is a great place to bring someone who is relatively new to Vietnamese food. The less-experienced foodie can flip to the back of the menu for a listing of familiar Chinese dishes the restaurant offers, such as sesame chicken or moo goo gai pan. These dishes come with rice and a spring roll for just $6 during lunch.


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Good food shouldn’t be a luxury. In this column, I set out to prove that it is possible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse and expanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs $10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cashstrapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house.

MY STORY, MY DESIGN

The real deal, however, is in the traditional Vietnamese entrées that dominate Annie’s menu. Noodle dishes make up the majority of the selections. The pho, a nor thern Vietnamese noodle soup, is only $7 and comes with your choice of meat. Also there are dishes with rice noodles, vermicelli noodles, egg noodles, stir-fried noodles, crispy noodles and dry noodles. With all of the entrées ringing in at less than $10, it’s quite inexpensive to experiment with the many noodle variations. Let’s not forget about the equally tasty dishes without noodles. The com ga xao gung, ginger chicken on steamed rice ($7), is a sweet and tender alternative to a bowl of noodles.The com tom nuong, grilled shrimp on rice with vegetables and Annie’s sauce ($8) sounds equally delicious. My last trip to Annie Cafe was part pleasure, part medicinal. My sinuses were clogged, a hassle I endure with any type of weather change, so I began my lunch with the hot and sour soup ($3), a bowl of which is strong enough to clear my airways. The Hubs and I were pretty sure this was a fresh batch of soup, judging from the slight crunch of the vegetables and the steam wafting off the liquid. Large chunks of vegetables and tofu were jammed into the bowl, making this a very hearty appetizer that required more chewing than I’m used to with a soup. The broth was opaque, with spices that tickled the back of my throat. To give my mouth a chance to cool off, I ordered the bun tom nuong, vermicelli noodles with grilled shrimp and vegetables ($8). This dish is unlike anything I’ve ever eaten. It consists of a handful of plump grilled shrimp sprinkled with crushed peanuts and a heap of shredded lettuce, cilantro and cucumber sitting atop a knot of tender noodles. The dish is served with a small bowl of a light, sweet sauce which I poured over the whole thing. The dish is slightly chilled because of the vegetables, making me think of it as a kind of noodle salad. The vegetables were very crisp and fresh, crunching with every bite. The shrimp were well cooked. But it’s the sweet sauce, which I somehow manage to get all over me on every visit, that unites a bowl of assorted ingredients into one fresh and interesting dish. I look forward to seeing more of Annie Cafe. I’ve been there quite a few times, and have never been disappointed by the friendly staff or consistent meals. Maybe, just maybe, this will be the place where everybody knows my name — or at least my usual order.

Notes about Annie Cafe The Hubs and I often make an afternoon of going to Annie Cafe, having coffee at Sunergos and taking a nice walk if the weather permits. The food at Annie Cafe is filling yet light enough to make a short post-meal walk seem manageable. It’s hard not to compare Annie Cafe to Vietnam Kitchen, in the Iroquois Manor shopping center, which is arguably more popular. Both serve delicious authentic Vietnamese food at reasonable prices in the South End of Louisville. Overall, the quiet Annie Cafe is less expensive and not as overwhelming as Vietnam Kitchen, which can get packed even on a weekday night. But Vietnam Kitchen offers a larger menu. Basically, you’ll get a good meal at either place and good value for your money.

Sterling silver charms from $25

The Bottom Line: Hot and sour soup: $3.00 Bun tom nuong: $8.00 Total (before tax and tip): $11.00 Total (with tax): $11.66 Mission: Failed

MALL ST. MATTHEWS 502.749.4310 PandoraOfLouisville@gmail.com

ANNIE CAFE | 308 W. Woodlawn Ave. | (502) 363-4847 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 35


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people and places profiles

BY BILL DOOLITTLE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

from

good to

great Anchorage Café spreads its creative wings

S

Something from here and a bit from there falls nicely into place at the Anchorage Café. This upscale – or is it traditional? – coffee shop lies in the heart of “downtown” Anchorage.

Anchorage Café proprietor Bruce Lake

36 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

A creation of Bruce Lake and his wife Courtney, the Anchorage Café began two Derbies ago as an espresso bar with a little lunchtime fare — and some darned good coffee. The coffee’s still terrific, but the café has added breakfast, and light dinners are now served out on the terrace, under the stars. “We spent a lot of time talking to people about what they would like us to be,” says Lake, who found that his potential customers wanted a neighborhood kind of place — but smartly done. So the outside grounds are manicured and the interiors are beautiful. The stoves gleam and steam. But the food — as much as possible — is locally grown, blooming straight out of the soil of farms nearby. Even the coffee, sort-of. The back-story of how the Lakes got to Louisville explains a lot about how Anchorage got its café — and what kind of café it got. It’s the final product of a dream a long time in coming — with something from here, and bits from there. Bruce Lake attended the University of Virginia, and Courtney, the College of William and Mary. But the story begins in Kentucky. “We didn’t meet until after college, at the Officer’s Club at Fort Knox,” says Lake. “I was in tank


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Roasted beet salad with sorrel, whipped goat cheese, grapefruit and pecans.

Anchorage CafĂŠ 11505 Park Road Anchorage, KY 502.708.1880


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Pastry Chef Loryn Kipp

command, and she was detached to the post in finance. We had our first date — this would have been in 1988 — at this hot new place in town. The Courier-Journal had an article about this place that had been around a long time, and been resuscitated and was the really new hot thing, called Jack Fry’s. After leaving the Army, the Lakes began civilian business careers that took them to the Northeast — Courtney with The Hartford, in Connecticut, and Bruce with Pepsi-Co, and then Coca-Cola, in New York City. They settled in a village in Connecticut. That’s when the café dream began. “We were living in a 200-year-old house in Redding, Conn., a bucolic town not too dissimilar to Anchorage,” says Lake. “That’s when we sort of hatched the idea of doing something like this. But because Redding had this 2-acre zoning thing, everything was at least 20 minutes away from town. We couldn’t find anything zoned commercially. “So we had the idea in our pocket, the genesis. We’d gone so far as a business plan up in Connecticut, but had to shelve it.” Then Courtney was offered a corporate insurance position with Humana, in Louisville. “We hooked up with a realtor, and Anchorage was the last neighborhood we visited,” says Lake. The Lakes moved into a countr y barn restyled as a home in Anchorage. “Courtney calls it a ‘contemporary,’ because we moved from a 200-year-old post and beam house in New England to this one built in 1905,” Lake says. Then came the café. The Lakes considered more urban locations, but liked the Anchorage site for the same reason they liked living in Anchorage. “We had to think about it,” says Lake. “It’s a pretty location, but it’s kind of off the beaten path.You’re kind of hidden out here. If you take some place that’s off restaurant row, you’re going to have to think about how to get folks out there.” Lake says the success of the Village Anchor Roost and Pub fine dining restaurant next door has been a big help for the Anchorage Café, making a sor t of tworestaurant row. “As we started to connect the dots, we thought this would be pretty viable — a first-rate espresso bar with the element of a traditional coffee house.” Lake says talented personnel make the idea click.


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“We knew we would need to find a really skilled baker and pastry chef, in keeping with that traditional café mode. Because we’re not a fullservice restaurant. Nor do we aspire to be.” Lake found just the baker/pastry chef he was looking for in Loryn Kipp. Kipp and husband Finn McDonald, of Louisville, had previously managed the well-known Captain Fairfield Inn, in Kennebunkport, Maine — and the Lakes had met them there. Lake also made a study of coffee. He put himself through a barista school in Portland, Ore., which gave him a chance to try out specialized equipment before he began buying machines for the café. “We got our espresso bar in place, and our baker in place, but as we got the sense we might be around for a while, we knew we needed a talented chef to spread our wings creatively,” says Lake. A year ago Lake added chef Andrew Myers as the final piece of the plan. Lake says Myers, a native Kentuckian who was formerly with Bellini’s in Lexington, brings creative horsepower to the kitchen. And Myers affirms the Anchorage Café’s commitment to “slow food,” and locally grown ingredients. “Andy brought his own network of farmers and sources and contacts,” says Lake. “He hooked up here with Sarah Fritschner of the Louisville farm-to-table initiative.” The café participates in “Kentucky Proud,” a partnership with the Kentucky Department of Agriculture that supports Kentucky farmers. “It took me a while to come to grips, as Andy has, that you’re going to make some menu sacrifices,” says Lake. “He just won’t serve a waxy imported tomato in the off season, for example. If you want people to go ‘Wow!’ when they try a BLT — with homegrown tomatoes and Loryn’s amazing bread, with house-made mayonnaise and Benton Farm’s bacon — you can’t keep the BLT on the menu in the dead of winter, with some tomato that’s blahhh.” Instead, Myers and the Anchorage Café snag local food at its peak season. In summer, for example, the vegetable panini boasts a portabello mushroom. But it’s anchored with butternut squash in the fall. This spring the menu is laced with strawberries and asparagus that are coming in at David Garey’s farm, nearby. Garey also raises the chickens for the Anchorage Café’s chicken salad sandwich. Another local ingredient in the chicken salad is a bit of Barren County Blue from Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheeses. Lake says he reaches out for Louisville specialties, such as pretzel rolls from Klaus, the German baker. Louisville coffee, too.

(top left) Fresh Garey Farms hen eggs with Benton’s bacon. (top right) Spinach and feta quiche. (center) Chocolate overload cake. (above) Barista Hannah Newman. (right) Fresh baked scallion biscuits.


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(above) Potato gnocchi in a lemon brown-butter with sorrel and Sapori D’Italia Toma cheese. (right) Ravioli stuffed with spring onions and Norwood agnolotti cheese, grilled spring onions, shiitake mushrooms and spring peas. (center) Freshly grilled leeks. (opposite, top) A Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese tasting. (opposite, bottom) Smoked ham and Swiss panini.


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“Of course, there aren’t too many coffee beans grown around here,” Lake laughs. “But there are local coffee roasters, and we’ve partnered with a wonderful one, Matt Argo and Argo Sons Coffee.”

Art and Architecture The Anchorage Café shares a front courtyard with the Village Anchor, with the actual anchor, for which the town is named, residing in its stand nearby. The town’s old interurban station (moved a bit) houses the Village Anchor, while the Anchorage Café is in a new building that references the Anchorage railroad station. The copper rain gutters carry a patina that looks like they’ve been hanging around since the last L & N passenger train rattled by on its way to Cincinnati. But the building is new. The best is inside, where architect Dan Fultz left black-painted steel ceiling beams exposed, with a wood paneling up to the skylights. The walls are light-colored and with dark wood trim. Much of the functional furniture is redhued cherry, in-between light and dark in color. That’s an unusual (and expensive) wood for a 21st century restaurant. But cherry is the cabinetfurniture hardwood of choice in Kentucky, going back to pioneer times. Anchorage artist Susan Tolliver and her pupils provide the ar twork throughout the building. Many of the paintings depict scenes of the town


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and nearby countryside environs, with barns and fences and some horses in that field over there. The floor is concrete checkerboard squares, alternating polished and painted. Like the rain spouts outside, the floor looks as if it’s been around a few decades. Then downstairs, a series of six huge wood and glass doors lead out onto a stone-paved terrace. “One thing I like about the way Dan did this room,” says Lake, swinging each door open, “is when you open all six of these, it changes everything in the room. Kind of gives it the feel of a country porch. So we put tables out here and do the candlelight thing on weekends. And more people ask about these doors than anything. We’ve had folks who are recreating these doors in barns.”

Neighbors and Neighborhoods Back upstairs, barista Nikki LaChance is brewing fresh Argo Sons coffee in a big stainless steel professional espresso machine. “Oh, the customers love to ask about this machine,” says LaChance, a Rhode Island native. “They really don’t know what it is from the backside. So we’ll talk about it.” And it is clear she approves. “The other shops I’ve worked in usually have tiny old machines that are temperamental. This one,” she says, snapping her fingers, “is perfect to work on.” And, she adds, it makes terrific coffee. “I think the combination of having such a nice machine — a professional machine — plus good coffee, local coffee, makes all the difference.”

The barista, of course, is the first face one sees in the Anchorage Café. “Most of our customers are regulars,” she notes. “They live right here in town. Bruce knows them all. Their kids go to school over there. They come off the trail. We see the same faces every day, which is nice. I feel like I know at least half our customers by name. I know whose kids are whose. Other coffee shops I’ve worked in would be like at a busy intersection, with the whole city coming in. I didn’t necessarily have this kind of relationship with the customers.” From the start, Lake knew the neighborhood would be the foundation of the Anchorage Café’s customer base. “We get more and more people every month, but we knew we would have to be a destination for the local residents,” says Lake. “It’s not unusual that we get three generations of a family in here in a day — maybe granddad for breakfast, then mom or dad during the day, the family in for dinner at night. “As we talked to folks in town there seemed to be a pretty clear demand for a casual option, for folks to come in right off the walking trail. Just a traditional café model.” All the Anchorage Café needed after that was a baker, a chef, an architect, a farm-to-table menu — and some darned good coffee. F&D Want to read more about Anchorage Café? Check out our Q&A with Chef Myers on page 22.

Superfood Salad: baby spinach with broccoli, garbanzo beans, walnuts, almonds, dried blueberries and cherries with Parmigiano Reggiano.


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www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 43


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liquids cork 101

BY SCOTT HARPER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

12

U IX $

S

Vintage, when used to refer to the quality of a particular year, is always a source of debate and, ultimately, subjectivity. Often, too much is said about vintage, especially when it comes to inexpensive white wines. The single most important thing about vintage in a value white wine is youth! One should never even consider buying a value white wine that is more than three years old. There may be precious few exceptions to this, but drinking older wine is more dangerous than its reward. Keeping the drinking window to two years is an even better call because, with limited exceptions to this rule, much of the appeal of white wines of value are their freshness. Age will dull the vibrant fruit character of an inexpensive white wine. It would be like cutting an apple in two and letting it sit for a day and then biting into it expecting a mouthful of juicy fruit. The apple and the wine both oxidize and lose their fresh, fruity appeal. So stay away from value wine that is four to six years old, put your emphasis on young wines, and you will be a happier wine aficionado. Here are my choices for some crisp young white wines from around the world, ideal for sipping or pairing with food.

44 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

Elios 2010 Mediterranean White (Peloponnese, Greece) The American wine company Terlato and the Greek winery Boutari produce this label, named for the Greek word for sun, helios. It seems to be counterintuitive to suggest that Greek wine is an up-and-coming region, but its wine has never been better. Stay away from the pine resin wine Retsina and try this tasty wine made from a blend of indigenous grapes — 50% Moschofilero, 10% Roditis, 10% Savatiano — and the internationally varietal Chardonnay, 30%. It is a fresh and bright wine with the flavors of ripe yellow apple, pear, Mandarin orange, and Meyer lemon, all in a medium frame with crisp acidity. Try with the obvious Mediterranean olive oil-based cuisine.

Pierre Boniface Apremont 2010 Vin De Savoie (Savoie, France) Anyone who thinks French quality wines are always expensive needs to try this wine. Savoie is the Central Eastern Alpine region of France and Apremont is a village within Savoie. The grape is the little-known Jacquère. A pale yellow wine with green highlights sets the stage for the taste of honeydew, green apple, citrus and limestone. It is dry, light-bodied and reminiscent of a fresh Alpine stream and white flowers. Try with seafood (especially shellfish) or goat cheese.

From the largest appellation in Washington comes this delicious wine from the winery founded by Charles Smith of K Vintners fame, who looks amazingly like rock star Sammy Hagar. Washington is increasingly noted for quality Riesling in every price range. There are plenty of flavors in this offdry, medium-bodied, excellent-value Riesling: tangerine, lime, green apple and a fresh zesty acidity. The touch of sweetness in this wine makes it go exceptionally well with spicy food, Asian-inspired food, or food with a small amount of sweetness.

Magnificent Wine Company 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley, Washington)

nder


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La Vieille Ferme 2010 Luberon Blanc (Rhone, France) The name of this wine translates to “old farmhouse” and the Perrin family of the renowned Château de Beaucastel makes it. The wine comes from the southern part of the Rhone Valley in the region of Luberon. This wine has the fresh fruit flavors of white peach, lime and kiwi, all in a medium body with thirst-quenching acidity, bright with wet stone minerality and a touch of orange zest. It is blended from the Southern France grapes of Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc and Vermentino. Charming with roasted whole chicken with fresh herbs and lemon.

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Chasing Venus 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand)

extensive wine selection

New Zealand, and the Marlborough region specifically, is famous for grassy, herbaceous lip-smacking Sauvignon Blanc. The name Chasing Venus implies what Captain Cook was doing when he sailed in the Pacific looking for the Southern continent. With huge pink grapefruit, gooseberr y, passion fruit, bell pepper and jalapeno nuances, this wine stands out. Crisp, medium-bodied and dry with full throttle flavor. Try this wine with a mildly spiced stir-fry or grilled river fish.

Neil and Maria Empson, of Empson Italian Selections, import boutique Italian wine and own the Bollini brand. The Trentino region is located in northeastern Italy, north of Veneto. Pinot Grigio is the ubiquitous Italian white grape now grown in many other countries, sometimes under the synonym Pinot Gris. This is a dry, medium-bodied wine with flavors of pear, honeysuckle, red apple, light flint and Meyer lemon — a little bit more than a quaffing wine with its vivacious, crisp and lively, refreshing character. It is a very pleasant wine that is excellent as an aperitif, or try it with light seafood pastas.

and whiskey distilleries or explore online at: www.KyBourbon.net

Bollini 2010 Pinot Grigio (Trentino, Italy)

and more than 40 bourbon

1529 Bardstown Road www.OldTownWine.com 502.451.8591

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 45


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The Wine Market

1200 Bardstown Rd | TheWineMarket.net | 502.451.7446

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1140 Bardstown Rd. s 451-4545 s www.highlandcoffee.com


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people and places profiles

The Silver Dollar 1761 Frankfort Ave. 502.259.9540


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honkytonk heroes Restored firehouse and shrine to “Bakersfield Sound,” The Silver Dollar shines

I

BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Talk about following your bliss! Rice, Rubel and third partner Shawn Cantley’s formula of vintage vinyl and whiskey-by-the-drink is sustaining a buzz that began fermenting before opening night. Throw Chef Jonathan Schwartz’s gussied-up roadhouse fare into the mix and you have what is amounting to a gold mine. On busy nights, the former Hook and Ladder building that houses this reimagined honky-tonk struggles to contain all those who come in search of good food, stiff drinks and generous helpings of Western Swing. By the time this reaches print, in fact, seating at The Silver Dollar will have doubled, with sidewalk and patio seating on tap for the warmer months. They have also added weekend lunch service, along with rejiggered cocktail and dinner menus to reflect a seasonal sensibility. That’s all well and good, fellas — just tell me you won’t scratch my Stockyard Pony, ($8: an herbaceous blend of J.W. Dant Bourbon, Aperol, fresh lemon and Angostura Bitters.)

I’m guessing moneymaking brainstorms are rarely coined during late-night Bourbon binges, but this is exactly what happened for the newly minted restaurateurs behind The Silver Dollar. While spinning “old school hillbilly records” and swigging Kentucky’s finest at 6:00 one morning, business partners Larry Rice and Michael Rubel decided to recreate their good time for paying customers.

Above: Larry Rice (left), Shawn Cantley (center) and Michael Rubel (right)

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An old one and a cold one Despite the craft cocktail lineage of its brain trust (Rice helped alter the way Louisville imbibes while at 732 Social; Rubel was a force behind the renowned Big Star and The Violet Hour in Chicago’s Wicker Park), The Silver Dollar tends to play down its top-shelf pedigree. House-made syrups, bitters and freshsqueezed juices make the concoctions here as good as any around; but, in case you miss the glowing neon on your way in, The Silver Dollar is, at its heart, a whiskey bar. “Drinking shouldn’t be pretentious,” Rice told me, signaling a departure from past beverage programs loaded with bar geek references. “I want a place where you’re not looked down on just because you order a domestic.” While honing their model, the trio agreed that the fancy cocktail thing might be a bit too precious for this honky-tonk. Although there is a place for the high-end drink here, the days of waiting for sculpted lemon twists or gently swatted mint sprigs are gone. Cantley may have put it best when comparing devotees of this culture to “Trekkies” — instead of Klingons, complex drink specs are the obsession. This attitude adjustment reveals itself with $3 whiskey-ofthe-day specials — or, to borrow the house parlance: “an old one” (Old Grand Dad, Old Heaven Hill, Old Charter 101, etc.) and “a cold one” (a $3 beer chaser). An extensive whiskey menu is also on offer, bound smartly in razor-thin sheets of cherry wood. The lineup spans varying price points and distilleries: from a $5 Old Fitz to an $18 Pappy 20 Year. But no one will look askance should you order something a bit more fussy. Whether the house cares to admit it, the Bourbon and tequila drinks are a key reason to visit, and a number of clues indicate that more study went into the cocktail menu than its curators might care to let on. The Picon Punch ($8), is one case-in-point that speaks to The Silver Dollar’s interest in both Bakersfield and cocktail history. This old recipe, which was likely created by migrating Basques who arrived in California’s San Joaquin Valley to herd sheep in the Sierras, features a French aperitif called Amer Picon. Availability of these orange-based, flavored bitters has long since dried up in the U.S. and must be crafted in house. The Picon is mixed with grenadine (also homemade) and Old Grand Dad in place of the traditional brandy. Seldom seen in these parts, the Picon Punch is made more impressive in that, even at Bakersfield’s Hotel Noriega, (a stillstanding Basque bar built in 1893), they use a mass-produced Picon substitute.

Why Bakersfield? Bakersfield was founded on a notion of hospitality, with one of its early settlers, the eponymous Colonel Thomas Baker, inviting exhausted travelers and prospectors to rest the night in his field. The city’s municipal website says nothing of what Colonel Baker did or didn’t feed his guests, and when asked about the fare at The Silver Dollar, Rice says that although there really isn’t a “Bakersfield cuisine,” they want the kitchen to draw inspiration from the unpretentious commingling of influences found in the culture there. “We wanted it to be a really approachable place for anybody,” adds Rice. “We tried to build a menu in a way that someone can have a beer and a shot of whiskey, eat some chili and 50 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

Slow-smoked barbeque pork on a bolillo bun with house-made coleslaw.


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Pan-seared rainbow trout in lemon and brown butter.


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not spend 20 bucks. But at the same time, if you want to course out a meal, you can spend some coin.” Rice says his desire to be inclusive extends from family members who were once too intimidated to visit him at his former fine-dining ports of call. The all-are-welcome mentality once found at Colonel Baker’s field is certainly reflected in the offerings here: from the Basket of Chicken Livers ($8) to an 18ounce Strip Steak ($32). Although trained in French cuisine, (Executive Chef Schwartz worked for Michelin three-star recipient Daniel Boulud and, locally, helped open Basa), flowery descriptors are purposely left off the menu, which uses a culinary vocabulary closer to the Texas South Plains than South France. Bold, American meat-and-potato dishes like Chicken Fried Steak ($14, mushroom gravy, smashed potato) and soul food classics like Chicken and Waffles ($17), tell part of the story. There are also dashes of Southern, Latin and Mexican influence peppering the bill — meat or veggie Empanadas ($7), and Molletes ($8, a torta with black beans, Pico De Gallo and melted (right) Braised short ribs with Queso Chihuahua), smashed potatoes and fried for example. An carrots, (above) “Swinging assortment of wellDoors” (tall glass) and executed fish dishes “Woolworth’s Manhattan,” which range from a (opposite, center) Fried oyster Blue Corn Crusted sandwich on a bolillo bun, Snapper on the high(opposite, bottom) Seasonal end ($24, with tomato vegetable plate with black butter and Swiss beans and smashed potatoes. chard), and crispy but tender fried oysters on the low side ($11), also provide reasons for return visits. Ordering the rolled oysters has become something of a reflex for more than one of us at F&D. The cornmeal-dusted snack arrives in sandwich form or — if you’d rather bypass the bready distraction — straight up with Ancho Aioli. The dry, crisp coating opens to a light kiss of

. “I want a place that you’re not looked down on just because you ordered a domestic.”

52 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com


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brine, an effect that Dave Hawkins, Sous Chef (and ironic shellfish allergy sufferer), says comes from keeping an exacting eye on the fryer. It’s impossible to under-cook an oyster, but really easy to overdo them, Hawkins explains. Restaurant or Bar? It’s hard to say whether The Silver Dollar is a restaurant with a great bar or a bar with excellent grub, but the best seat in the house may be a stool at the 43-foot stretch of what Rice calls “Kentucky Wood.” The reclaimed lumber boasts Bluegrass provenance, hailing from an old tobacco barn in Lexington and former rick house at Old Crow Bourbon. Details like these are part of what makes the still-new honky-tonk feel as though it’s been sitting on the corner of Frankfort and Pope for a century. The decision to showcase the bones of the Albert A. Stoll building, a Gothic revival firehouse built in 1890, is part of this too, along with cool artifacts left behind by Hook and Ladder Company #3. The department’s large, handmade map of the Clifton/Crescent Hill neighborhoods and old call box markers hang on the walls like priceless pieces of found folk art. When executed poorly, a restaurant’s theme can be a distraction, even a downer, particularly when the artifice of its concept pokes through. Massproduced replicas of battered road signs and made-in-China Americana can feel like forced comfort and induce something other than nostalgia. But the designers behind this space have made it easy to feel transported, which is aided by a dimly lit atmosphere and growing stack of twangy rhythm from record collector, Mike Rubel. After lowering the needle on Waylon Jennings’ “Dreaming My Dreams,” server Jennifer May beams when telling me she’s one of the few entrusted with access to the turntable. May explains that boss Rubel has high expectations concerning the handling of LPs. The ownership confirms that many literally butterfingered employees have been excused from this task, leaving only two or three with the DJ-like responsibility for reading the room and choosing the appropriate cut. The time that May takes out of her other duties to select records is a reminder that this whole idea started with a couple of guys playing records. For the men behind this venture, the value that Waylon, Merle and Buck add to The Silver Dollar makes the chore of stopping to flip a record all the more worth it. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 53


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The new

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948.6000 INJURY

TRIAL LAWYERS


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NewAlbany In historic New Albany, where you can park, stroll, and enjoy, there’s a renaissance happening. New restaurants and shops, public ar t and histor y, and a Greenway along the river, beckon you to relax and recreate in an historic setting on the Ohio River. Come try our acclaimed eateries, award-winning ar t museum, winer y, microbrewery, and recreational opportunities, all delivered on a human scale. Discover the future in an historic setting.

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SOME PLACES SIMPLY SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES. Since 1923, when The Brown Hotel first opened her doors to the world, she has graciously welcomed guests with a sense of grandeur, which quite frankly has left many of our guests speechless. NOW, HERE’S WHAT THE REST OF THE WORLD IS SAYING: “Named one of the BEST 500 HOTELS IN THE WORLD” TRAVEL + LEISURE MAGAZINE

“Service was exemplary. I checked out with regret.” CHICAGO TRIBUNE

“The English Grill has emerged as the finest restaurant in the city.” WINE SPECTATOR

dining guide Cuisine Style African .................................79 Asian/Chinese .....................79 Asian/Filipino ......................80 Asian/Japanese....................80 Asian/Korean .......................82 Asian/Mongolian .................82 Asian/Thai ...........................82 Asian/Vietnamese ................82 Bar & Grill ...........................77 Barbecue..............................77 Bistro/Contemporary ...........64 Cafés ..................................66

RESTAURANT

J. GRAHAM’S CAFE

T H E G R A N D LO B BY B A R

DOWNTOWN AT FOURTH & BROADWAY (502) 583-1234 • www.brownhotel.com 56 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

Fine Dining..........................60 Home Style/Southern ..........72 Indian ..................................85 Mexican...............................86 Microbreweries....................79 Middle Eastern.....................85 Pizza ....................................73 Sandwich/Deli .....................75 Seafood ...............................67 Southwest/Tex Mex..............88 Steakhouse ..........................68 Upscale Casual....................61

Area Maps begin on page 90 Alphabetical Index

THE ENGLISH GRILL

Cafeterias.............................72 Cajun/Creole .......................86 Caribbean/Cuban.................86 Casual Dining......................69 Coffee/Tea House.................88 Desserts/Bakery...................89 Entertainment Dining ...........73 European/Bosnian ...............82 European/French .................82 European/German................83 European/Irish .....................83 European/Italian...................84 European/Spanish ...............85

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

211 Clover Lane 60 West Bistro 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China A.P. Crafters Kitchen & Bar Achille’s Pizza Addis Grill Adobo Mexican Restaurant Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Brewery Al Nuur Al Watan Alexzander Taqueria Alley Cat Café Amici Anchorage Café Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Ann’s by the River Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi Arni’s Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Moon Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Atrium Café August Moon Austin’s Avalon BD’s Mongolian Grill B3Q BBQ B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse Baby D’s Bagels & Deli Backyard Burger The Bakery Bamboo House Bank Street Brewhouse Barbara Lee’s Kitchen The Bard’s Town Basa Modern Vietnamese Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill Baxter Station Bazos Mexican Grill Bean Street Coffee Co. Bearno’s Pizza

MAP #

60 Fine Dining 3 61 Upscale Casual 3 60 Fine Dining 13 69 Casual Dining 14, 16 79 Asian/Chinese 1 64 Bistro/Contemporary 5 73 Pizza 16 79 African 1 86 Mexican 11 89 Desserts/Bakery 16 84 European/Italian 16 79 Microbreweries 1 79 African 13 85 Middle Eastern 4 86 Mexican 13 66 Cafés 5 84 European/Italian 13 66 Cafés 5 73 Pizza 13 73 Pizza 4 72 Cafeterias 16 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 89 Desserts/Bakery 3 73 Pizza 1, 12 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 84 European/Italian 2 79 Microbreweries 2 69 Casual Dining [6] 80 Asian/Japanese 10 73 Pizza 14 66 Cafés 14 81 Asian/Japanese 3 79 Asian/Chinese 4, 14 80 Asian/Chinese 4, 6 61 Upscale Casual 2 69 Casual Dining 11 64 Bistro/Contemporary 5 80 Asian/Chinese 2 61 Upscale Casual 7 61 Upscale Casual 2 82 Asian/Mongolian 6 77 Barbecue 14 69 Casual Dining 5 75 Sandwich/Deli 2 75 Sandwich/Deli 6 89 Desserts/Bakery 4 80 Asian/Chinese 13 79 Microbreweries 14 72 Home Style/Southern 2 73 Entertainment Dining 2 61 Upscale Casual 2 77 Bar & Grill 2 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 86 Mexican 3, 6 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 73 Pizza [13]

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

Beef O’Brady’s 77 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14, 15 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 81 Asian/Japanese 14 Bela’s Café 79 African 13 Bendoya Sushi Bar 81 Asian/Japanese 1 Big Al’s Beeritaville 77 Bar & Grill 2 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 72 Home Style/Southern 1 The Bistro 72 Cafeterias 3 Bistro 301 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro 42 84 European/Italian 10 Bistro Le Relais 82 European/French 4 Blackstone Grille 61 Upscale Casual 10 The Blind Pig 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bloom’s Café 66 Cafés 3 BLU Mediterranean Grille 61 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 66 Cafés 2 Blue Horse Café 69 Casual Dining 13 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 79 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Burgers 69 Casual Dining 3 Boardwalk Fresh Burgers 75 Sandwich/Deli 16 Bombay Grill 85 Indian 5 Bonefish Grill 67 Seafood 5 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 73 Pizza 12 Boombozz Famous Pizza 73 Pizza 3 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 73 Pizza 6 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 73 Pizza 2, 5 Boomer’s Café 66 Cafés 1 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 77 Barbecue 11, 13 Borromeo’s Pizza 73 Pizza 13 Bosna-Mak 82 European/Bosnian 4 Bourbons Bistro 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 77 Barbecue 5 Bravo! 61 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 89 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 The Brewery 77 Bar & Grill 2 Brian’s Deli 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 69 Casual Dining 6 Bristol Bar & Grille 62 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Brix Wine Bar 64 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 77 Bar & Grill 5 Bruegger’s Bagels 75 Sandwich/Deli 3 Buca Di Beppo 84 European/Italian 6 Buck’s 60 Fine Dining 13 Buckhead Mountain Grill 69 Casual Dining 4, 8, 16 Buffalo Wild Wings 77 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 Buffalo Wings & Rings 77 Bar & Grill 8 Bungalow Joe’s 77 Bar & Grill 11 Bunz Restaurant 69 Casual Dining 2 Burger Boy 75 Sandwich/Deli 13 Burning Bush Grille 85 Middle Eastern 10 Butcher’s Best 75 Sandwich/Deli 10 Butterfly Garden Café 66 Cafés 2, 3 Café 360 85 Middle Eastern 2 Café Aroma 86 Mexican 2 Café Fraiche 66 Cafés 7 Café Lou Lou 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Café Magnolia 69 Casual Dining 1


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RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Café Mimosa 82 Café Montagu 66 Café Palacio 75 Café Thuy Van 82 Caffe Classico 64 Cake Flour 89 California Pizza Kitchen 73 Captain’s Quarters 69 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 69 Carley Rae’s 72 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 84 Cast Iron Steakhouse 68 Cat Box Deli 75 Caviar Japanese Restaurant 62 Cellar Door Chocolates 89 Champions Grill 69 Champions Sports Bar 77 Charim Korean Restaurant 82 Charlestown Pizza Co. 73 Check’s Café 72 Cheddar Box Café 66 Cheddar’s Casual Café 69 Cheer King Star 80 The Cheesecake Factory 62 Cheezy’s Pizza 73 Chez Seneba African 79 The Chicken House 72 Chicken King 72 Chili’s 69 China 1 80 China Buffet 80 China Café 80 China Castle 80 China Garden 80 China Inn 80 China King 80 China Taste 80 Chinese Chef 80 Chinese Express 80 Choi’s Asian Food Market 81 Chong Garden 80 Chopshop Salads 69 Chopsticks 80 Chopsticks House 80 Chung King 80 Chuy’s 88 City Café 66 City Girl Farm Coffee Co. 88 Clarksville Seafood 67 Clifton’s Pizza 73 Clucker’s Wings 77 Coach Lamp 70 Coals Artisan Pizza 73 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 89 Coffee Crossing 88 Come Back Inn 84 The Comfy Cow 89 Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 60 Corner Café 62 Corner Door Bar & Grill 77 Cottage Café 72 Cottage Inn 66 Crave Café & Catering 66 Cravings a la Carte 72 Creekside Outpost & Café 66 Cricket’s Café 66 Crystal Chinese 80 Cuban Flavor 86 Cubana Restaurant 86 Culver’s 70 Cumberland Brews 79 Cunningham’s 70 The Cupcake Shoppe 89 Dakshin Indian Restaurant 85 DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery 89 Dancing Sushi 81 Danish Express Pastries 75 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 74 Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle 72 Day’s Espresso 88 De La Torre’s 85 Decca 62 Del Frisco’s 68 Derby Café 66 Derby City BBQ 77 Derby Dinner Playhouse 73 Desserts By Helen 89 Devino’s 75 Diamond Pub & Billiards 78 Difabio’s Casapela 84 DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub 74 Dish On Market 64 Ditto’s Grill 64 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 75 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 72 Doc Crow’s 62 Dooley’s Bagels 75 Double Dragon 80 Double Dragon II 80 Double Dragon 9 80 Dragon King’s Daughter 81 Drake’s 78 Dunkin’ Donuts 89 DuValle Grub N Scrub 77 Eagle Lake & Restaurant 67 Earth Friends Café 66

MAP #

Asian/Vietnamese 2 Cafés 13 Sandwich/Deli 3 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Desserts/Bakery 1 Pizza 5 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 13 Home Style/Southern 1 European/Italian 5 Steakhouse 10, 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 1, 2 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Asian/Korean 3 Pizza 16 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 Asian/Chinese 1 Upscale Casual 3 Pizza 16 African 13 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 16 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Chinese 12 Casual Dining 1, 3 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 Cafés 1, 2 Coffee/Tea House 3 Seafood 15 Pizza 2 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 Casual Dining 1 Pizza 3 Desserts/Bakery 2 Coffee/Tea House 14 European/Italian 1, 16 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 5 Home Style/Southern 13 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Cafés 15 Asian/Chinese 1 Caribbean/Cuban 11 Caribbean/Cuban 2 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Desserts/Bakery 3 Indian 11 Desserts/Bakery 13 Asian/Japanese 8 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 13 Home Style/Southern 5 Coffee/Tea House 2 European/Spanish 2 Upscale Casual 1 Steakhouse 3 Cafés 13 Barbecue 13 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 1, 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 2, 3 European/Italian 2 Pizza 3 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 1 Upscale Casual 1 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 8, 11, 12, 13 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Japanese 2 Bar & Grill 3, 8 Desserts/Bakery 2 Barbecue 13 Seafood 12 Cafés 14

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

Eastern House 80 Asian/Chinese 12 Eddie Merlot’s 68 Steakhouse 1 Edesia Gardens 70 Casual Dining 6 Eggroll Machine 80 Asian/Chinese 2 Eiderdown 83 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 86 Mexican 15 El Caporal 86 Mexican 4, 6, 15 El Mariachi 86 Mexican 5 El Marlin Seafood 86 Mexican 6 El Mundo 86 Mexican 2 El Nopal 86 Mexican [16] El Ranchero 86 Mexican 4 El Rincon Cuban Restaurant 86 Caribbean/Cuban 13 El Rodeo Mexican 86 Mexican 12 El Sombrero 86 Mexican 16 El Tarasco 86 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13 El Toro Cantina & Grill 86 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 80 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 80 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 60 Fine Dining 1 Equus 62 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Restaurant 83 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 66 Cafés 1 Ernesto’s 86 Mexican 6 Expression Of You 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 The Falafel House 85 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 77 Barbecue 6, 15 Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 70 Casual Dining 13 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 74 Pizza 13 Fat Jimmy’s 74 Pizza 2, 5 FeastBBQ 77 Barbecue 14 Feed Bag Deli 75 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 86 Mexican 8, 11 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 77 Barbecue 1, 12 Firehouse Subs 75 Sandwich/Deli 5 First Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 12 The Fish House 67 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 68 Seafood 3, 5 Fish-Fry House 67 Seafood 2 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 70 Casual Dining 8, 14 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 70 Casual Dining 13 Flanagans Ale House 78 Bar & Grill 2 Forty Acres And A Mule 72 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 78 Bar & Grill 4 Four Pegs Beer Lounge 64 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Fox & Hound 78 Bar & Grill 3 Franco’s Restaurant 72 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 77 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 75 Sandwich/Deli 8 Frolio’s Pizza 74 Pizza 13 Frontier Diner 72 Home Style/Southern 12 Fuji Asian Bistro 81 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 81 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 FX Pizza 74 Pizza 14 Garage Bar 70 Casual Dining 1 Gary’s On Spring 62 Upscale Casual 2 Gasthaus 83 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 70 Casual Dining 1 Gerstle’s Place 78 Bar & Grill 3 Ghyslain On Market 82 European/French 1 Gigi’s Cupcakes 89 Desserts/Bakery 6 Golden Buddha 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Corral 72 Home Style/Southern 4,13,15 Golden Palace 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Goose Creek Diner 70 Casual Dining 8 Gordon Biersch Brewery 79 Microbreweries 1 Grady’s Burgers & Wings 70 Casual Dining 13 Granny’s Apron 72 Home Style/Southern 13 Granville Inn 78 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 85 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 78 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 89 Desserts/Bakery 5, 14 Great Life Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 6, 8, 15 Great Wall 80 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Leaf Vegetarian 70 Casual Dining 13 Green Room Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 6 Guaca-Mole 86 Mexican 5 Habana Blues Tapas 86 Caribbean/Cuban 8,14 Hall’s Cafeteria 72 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 81 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy China 80 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q 77 Barbecue 16 Harvest 62 Upscale Casual 1 Havana Rumba 86 Caribbean/Cuban 3, 5 Hawksview Gallery 62 Upscale Casual 13 Hazelwood Restaurant 72 Home Style/Southern 12 Heart & Soy 81 Asian/Japanese 2 Heine Brothers Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 2,3,4,5,13 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 89 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Hibachi Sushi Buffet 80 Asian/Chinese 11 Highland Coffee Co. 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 Highland Morning 66 Cafés 2 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 81 Asian/Japanese 5 Hill Street Fish Fry 68 Seafood 13 Hilltop Tavern 78 Bar & Grill 2 Hitching Post Inn 78 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 Holy Grale 65 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Home Plate Café 66 Cafés 1 Home Run Burgers & Fries 70 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2012 57


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RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

Homemade Ice Cream & Pie Kitchen 89 Desserts [9] Hometown Buffet 72 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 Hometown Pizza 74 Pizza 7 Honey Creme Donut Shop 89 Desserts/Bakery 14 Honeybaked Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 Hong Kong Chinese 80 Asian/Chinese 14 Hong Kong Fast Food 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 78 Bar & Grill 13 Hooters 70 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 Howl at the Moon 73 Entertainment Dining 1 Hunan Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 11 I Luv Sushi & Teriyaki 81 Asian/Japanese 2 Ichiban Samurai 81 Asian/Japanese 6 IHOP 70 Casual Dining 6, 15 Improv Comedy Club 73 Entertainment Dining 1 Incredible Dave’s 73 Entertainment Dining 8 Indi’s Restaurant 72 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13,16 Intermezzo Café & Cabaret 63 Upscale Casual 1 The International Mall 84 European/Italian 1 The Irish Exit 83 European/Irish 14 The Irish Rover 83 European/Irish 2, 7 Iroquois Pizza 74 Pizza 13 J. Alexander’s 63 Upscale Casual 3 J. Graham’s Café 66 Cafés 1 J. Gumbo’s 86 Cajun/Creole 1,2,5,6,13 J. Harrods 63 Upscale Casual 10 Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 60 Fine Dining 14 Jack Fry’s 60 Fine Dining 2 Jack’s Lounge 65 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Jackson’s Seafood 68 Seafood 14 Jade Palace 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Jamie’s 14K Cupcakes 89 Desserts/Bakery 2 Jane’s Cafeteria 73 Cafeterias 4 Jasmine 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Jason’s Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 Java Brewing Co. 88 Coffee/Tea House 2,5,10 Jazzyblu 65 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 68 Steakhouse 1 Jersey Mike’s Subs 76 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Jersey’s Café 78 Bar & Grill 15 Jessie’s Family Restaurant 72 Home Style/Southern 12 Jimbo’s BBQ 77 Barbecue 13 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 76 Sandwich/Deli [9] Joe Davola’s 76 Sandwich/Deli 2 Joe Huber Restaurant 73 Entertainment Dining 14 Joe’s Crab Shack 68 Seafood 1 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 86 Cajun/Creole 6 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 70 Casual Dining 5 John E’s 63 Upscale Casual 4 John O’Bryan’s Tavern 78 Bar & Grill 12 Johnny Brusco’s Pizza 74 Pizza 8 Johnny V’s 74 Pizza 6 Jucy’s Smokehouse 77 Barbecue 5 Jumbo Buffet 80 Asian/Chinese 6 Kailana Sushi 81 Asian/Japanese 11 Kansai Japanese Rest. 81 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 Karem’s 70 Casual Dining 8 Kashmir Indian 85 Indian 2 Kayrouz Café 66 Cafés 3 Kenna’s Korner 74 Pizza 8 Kern’s Korner 70 Casual Dining 2 King Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 3 Kingfish 68 Seafood 6, 7, 16 King’s Fried Chicken 72 Home Style/Southern 13 Kobe Japanese Steak 81 Asian/Japanese 16 Koreana II 82 Asian/Korean 13 KT’s 63 Upscale Casual 2 Kum’s Kafe 72 Home Style/Southern 13 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 65 Bistro/Contemporary 2 La Bamba 86 Mexican 2 La Bocca 84 European/Italian 14 La Bodega 85 European/Spanish 2 La Colombiana 85 European/Spanish 8 La Coop: Bistro à Vins 82 European/French 1 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 84 European/Italian 2 La Hacienda Guadalajara 86 Mexican 13 La Monarca 86 Mexican 11 La Pasadita 86 Mexican 16 La Que 85 Asian/Vietnamese 2 La Rosita Mexican Grill 86 Mexican 1, 14 La Rosita Taqueria 86 Mexican 5, 13, 15 La Tapatia 86 Mexican 2, 13 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 73 Cafeterias 14 Las Gorditas 87 Mexican 11 Las Palmas Cuban Café 86 Caribbean/Cuban 11 Lee’s Korean 82 Asian/Korean 13 Legend’s 70 Casual Dining 14 Lemongrass Café 82 Asian/Vietnamese 5 Lenny’s Sub Shop 76 Sandwich/Deli 4 The Lighthouse 78 Bar & Grill 16 Lilly’s 60 Fine Dining 2 Limestone 60 Fine Dining 5 Ling Ling 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Little Caesar’s Pizza 74 Pizza 5, 6, 8, 11, 13, 14, 16 Little India Café 85 Indian 4 Liu’s Garden 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Logan’s Roadhouse 68 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 87 Mexican 13 Longhorn Steakhouse 68 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago 76 Sandwich/Deli 2 Los Aztecas 87 Mexican 1, 5, 10 Los Mezcales 87 Mexican 13 Lotsa Pasta 76 Sandwich/Deli 3 Louis Le Francais 83 European/French 14 Louisville Pizza Co. 74 Pizza 6 58 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

Luigi’s 74 Pizza 1 Lunch Today 76 Sandwich/Deli 16 Lynn’s Paradise Café 70 Casual Dining 2 Ma Zerellas 74 Pizza 15 Maa Sha Allah 79 African 4 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 82 Asian/Thai 16 Maido Essential Japanese 81 Asian/Japanese 2 Main Eatery 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main Street Coffee & Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main St. Tavern 78 Bar & Grill 1 Majid’s St. Matthews 65 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Maker’s Mark Lounge 63 Upscale Casual 1 Manhattan Grill 70 Casual Dining 1 Mark’s Feed Store 77 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 Martini Italian Bistro 84 European/Italian 8 Masa Japanese 81 Asian/Japanese 5 Mayan Café 87 Mexican 1 McAlister’s Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli [9] The Melting Pot 63 Upscale Casual 6 Meridian Café 66 Cafés 3 Mexican Fiesta 87 Mexican 4 Mexico Tipico 87 Mexican 12 Mexico Viejo 87 Mexican 2 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 81 Asian/Japanese 3 Mike & Matt’s 72 Home Style/Southern 16 Mike Linnig’s 68 Seafood 12 Mike’s Tavern 78 Bar & Grill 14 Mimi’s Café 70 Casual Dining 5 Ming’s Buffet 80 Asian/Chinese 2 Mirage Mediterranean Grill 85 Middle Eastern 13 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 72 Home Style/Southern 1, 2 Mitchell’s Fish Market 68 Seafood 8 Moe’s Southwest Grill 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 85 European/Spanish 7 Molly Malone’s 83 European/Irish 2, 3 The Monkey Wrench 70 Casual Dining 2 More Shenanigan’s 83 European/Irish 4 Morris Deli & Catering 76 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Morton’s of Chicago 68 Steakhouse 1 Mozz Mozzarella Bar 60 Fine Dining 1 Mozzaria Italian Eatery 84 European/Italian 1 Mr. Gattis 74 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 1 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 70 Casual Dining 2 My Favorite Muffin 89 Desserts/Bakery 5 My Old KY Dinner Train 73 Entertainment Dining 13 The NA Exchange 65 Bistro/Contemporary 14 NamNam Café 82 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Nana’s Country Kitchen 72 Home Style/Southern 12 Nancy’s Bagel Box 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 76 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 63 Upscale Casual 5 Neighborhood Café 66 Cafés 3 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 71 Casual Dining 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 74 Pizza 14 New China 80 Asian/Chinese 5 New Direction Bar & Grill 78 Bar & Grill 8 Nonnie’s Kitchen 66 Cafés 5 Nord’s Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 13 North End Café 66 Cafés 2 NuLu East Market Lounge 63 Upscale Casual 1 O’Charley’s 71 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 72 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 83 European/Irish 2 The Oakroom 60 Fine Dining 1 Oasis Sushi & Soul 81 Asian/Japanese 13 Oishii Sushi 81 Asian/Japanese 2, 4 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 74 Pizza 6, 8 Old Louisville Coffee House 88 Coffee/Tea House 13 Old Spaghetti Factory 84 European/Italian 1 Old Stone Inn 63 Upscale Casual 5 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 77 Barbecue 11 The Olive Garden 84 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Ollie’s Trolley 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 80 Asian/Chinese 14 Oriental House 80 Asian/Chinese 3 Oriental Star 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Original Impellizzeri’s 74 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Osaka Sushi Bar 81 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Otto’s Café 71 Casual Dining 1 Outback Steakhouse 68 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 13, 15 The PBJ Shop 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 58 Upscale Casual 5 Palermo Viejo 85 European/Spanish 2 Panda Chinese 80 Asian/Chinese 10 Panera Bread Co. 76 Sandwich/Deli [9] Papa John’s 74 Pizza [30] Papa Murphy’s Pizza 74 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 74 Pizza 2, 13 Passtime Fish House 68 Seafood 6 Pat’s Steak House 69 Steakhouse 2 Patrick O’Shea’s 83 European/Irish 1 Paul’s Fruit Market 76 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Paula Deen Buffet 71 Casual Dining 14 Pearl 82 Asian/Vietnamese 14 Peking City Bistro 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Penn Station 76 Sandwich/Deli [17] Peppers Bar and Grill 71 Casual Dining 1 Perfetto Pizza 74 Pizza 6 Perkfection 88 Coffee/Tea House 16 Pesto’s Italian 84 European/Italian 1 Petra Mediterranean 85 Middle Eastern 4 Pho Binh Minh 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Piccadilly Cafeteria 73 Cafeterias 6 Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 87 Mexican 12


56-59_Guide_Index_sum12_Layout 1 4/23/12 5:20 PM Page 59

RESTAURANT

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Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 77 Barbecue 5 Pita Delights 85 Middle Eastern 1 Pita Hut 85 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 85 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza King 74 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 74 Pizza 4 Please & Thank You 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 Plehn’s Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 3 Police Donuts 89 Desserts/Bakery 5 Ponderosa Steakhouse 69 Steakhouse 13 Porcini 84 European/Italian 2 Potbelly Sandwich Shop 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Proof On Main 63 Upscale Casual 1 Pub Louisville 71 Casual Dining 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 74 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 87 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Qdoba Mexican Grill 87 Mexican [12] Queen of Sheba 79 African 4 Queenie’s Soul Cuisine 72 Home Style/Southern 4 Queue Café 66 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 Quizno’s Subs 76 Sandwich/Deli [7] Rafferty’s of Louisville 71 Casual Dining 3, 8 Ramsi’s Café 65 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hog Tapas 65 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 89 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 71 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Sun Chinese 80 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s Comfort Food 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ri Ra Irish Pub 83 European/Irish 1 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 77 Barbecue 1 River City Winery 65 Bistro/Contemporary 4 River Road BBQ 77 Barbecue 7 Riverside Café 66 Cafés 16 Rivue 60 Fine Dining 1 Rocky’s Sub Pub 74 Pizza 4, 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 84 European/Italian 5 Rooster’s 71 Casual Dining 12, 13, 15 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 78 Bar & Grill 8 Roots 81 Asian/Japanese 2 Rosie’s Pizza 74 Pizza 5 Rosticeria Luna 87 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 77 Barbecue 13 Ruby Tuesday 71 Casual Dining 6, 15 Rudolph’s Bakery & Coffee 89 Desserts/Bakery 15 The Rudyard Kipling 71 Casual Dining 1 Rumball’s Family Sports Bar 78 Bar & Grill 12 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 68 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 69 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 69 Steakhouse 11 Rye 64 Upscale Casual 1 SaE Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Saffron’s 85 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 85 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 82 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saigon One 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Saint’s 78 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 81 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 81 Asian/Japanese 3 Sal’s Pizza & Wings 74 Pizza 5 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Sam’s Food & Spirits 71 Casual Dining 14 Santa Fe 87 Mexican 16 Santa Fe Grill 87 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 81 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine 80 Asian/Filipino 2 Sato’s Zen Sushi & Sake 81 Asian/Japanese 3 Schlotzsky’s Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli 8 Scotty’s Ribs & More 77 Barbecue 5 Scotty’s Village Market 76 Sandwich/Deli 8 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 86 Cajun/Creole 5 Senor Iguana’s 87 Mexican 5, 6, 13, 15 Sergio’s World Beers 78 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 60 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 77 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 82 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 85 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 77 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 80 Asian/Chinese 1 Sharom’s 68 Seafood 11 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 84 European/Irish 2 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 86 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shirley Mae’s Café 72 Home Style/Southern 1 Shogun 81 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 71 Casual Dining 2,5,13 Sichuan Garden 80 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 75 Pizza 1 The Silver Dollar 65 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Simply Thai 82 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 75 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 89 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sitar Indian Restaurant 85 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 71 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Smashburger 71 Casual Dining 1, 5 Smokehouse BBQ 77 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 77 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 77 Barbecue 6 Smokey’s Bean 89 Coffee/Tea House 13 Snappy Tomato 75 Pizza 8 Sol Aztecas 87 Mexican 1, 2 Sonoma Coffee Café 89 Coffee/Tea House 2 Soora Korean Restaurant 82 Asian/Korean 8

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Soupy’s 76 Sandwich/Deli 4 Spaghetti Shop 84 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 75 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8 Sporting News Grill 79 Bar & Grill 13 The Sports & Social Club 79 Bar & Grill 1 Spring St. Bar & Grill 79 Bar & Grill 2 The St. Charles Exchange 69 Steakhouse 1 Starbucks Coffee 89 Coffee/Tea House [35] Starving Artist Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 71 Casual Dining4,6,8,13,12,15 Stevens & Stevens Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 84 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 69 Steakhouse 8 Stop Lite Café 66 Cafés 1 Straight Out Da Kitchen 86 Caribbean/Cuban 13 Stricker’s Café 66 Cafés 16 Studio Pizza 75 Pizza 15 Sub Station II 76 Sandwich/Deli 13 Sugar & Spice Donut Shop 89 Desserts/Bakery 11 Sully’s Saloon 79 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee 89 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sway 64 Casual Dining 1 Sweet Stuff Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 14 Sweet Surrender 89 Desserts/Bakery 2 Sweets & Such Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 12 Taco Punk 71 Casual Dining 1 Taco Tico 87 Mexican 12 Tacqueria La Mexicana 87 Mexican 13 Taj Palace 85 Indian 8 Tambayan Filipino Restaurant 80 Asian/Filipino 11 TanThai Restaurant 82 Asian/Thai 14 Tazza Mia 89 Coffee/Tea House 6 TC’s Sandwich Shoppe 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 80 Asian/Chinese 8 Texas Roadhouse 69 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 Texicans BBQ Pit 77 Barbecue 7 TGI Friday’s 72 Casual Dining 1 Thai Café 82 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Orchids 82 Asian/Thai 6 Thai Siam 82 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 82 Asian/Thai 13 Thai Taste 82 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 79 Bar & Grill 2 The Café 66 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 67 Cafés 3 The Cheddar Box Too 67 Cafés 3 Theater Square Marketplace 66 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 76 Sandwich/Deli 13 Toast On Market 72 Casual Dining 1, 14 Tokyo Japanese 82 Asian/Japanese 7 Tomo 82 Asian/Japanese 14 Tony Impellizzeri’s 75 Pizza 14 Trailside Café 89 Coffee/Tea House 5 Troll Pub Under The Bridge 79 Bar & Grill 1 True Thai 82 Asian/Thai 11 Tucker’s 72 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4,6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 84 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 72 Casual Dining 2 Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint 75 Pizza 2 Uptown Café 64 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 64 Upscale Casual 2 Verbana Café 67 Cafés 8 Vic’s Café 79 Bar & Grill 14 Vicario’s 84 European/Italian 14 Vietnam Kitchen 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Village Anchor Pub & Roost 66 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Vincenzo’s 60 Fine Dining 1 Vint Coffee 89 Coffee/Tea House 1,2,3,7 Vito’s Pizza 75 Pizza 13 Volare 84 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 76 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 72 Home Style/Southern 13 Wall Street Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Wasabiya Japanese Rest. 82 Asian/Japanese 2 Webb’s Market 72 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 72 Casual Dining 10 Wick’s Pizza 75 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 8, 14 Wild Eggs 67 Cafés 3, 5 Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion 82 Asian/Japanese 2 William’s Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 15 Wiltshire On Market 64 Upscale Casual 1 The Wing Zone 72 Casual Dining 13 Wingstop 79 Bar & Grill 12 Winston’s 61 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 80 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 67 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 80 Asian/Chinese 4 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 64 Upscale Casual 1 Yafa Café 67 Cafés 1, 13 Yang Kee Noodle 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Yellow Cactus 87 Mexican 14 Yen Ching 80 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 80 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Za’s Pizza 75 Pizza 2 Zanzabar 79 Bar & Grill 13 Zaxby’s 72 Casual Dining 16 Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 86 Middle Eastern 2 Zen Garden 82 Asian/Vietnamese 2 ZiaLaLa Café 67 Cafés 5 Zoe’s Kitchen 86 Middle Eastern 1, 8 Zoup! 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 61 Fine Dining 5

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

p = Full Bar

f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln. 896-9570. This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. Ownermanager Andrew Smith and long time Chef Troy Schuster have burnished the upscale atmosphere and creative menu, moving 211 Clover Lane to a destination dining spot. $$$$ Br L D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for more than two decades. The quality of food and service remains high, and Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ L D hpfe CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime

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JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ L D hpe

LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt has established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Seasonal theme dinners and the Feed Me Chef ad hoc dinners offer special values. $$$$ L D hpf

Support our local flavor

Irish Rover, Too L&N Wine Bar & Bistro Lilly’s Bistro Limestone Restaurant Mayan Café Meridian Café Napa River Grill North End Café - Crescent Hill North End Café - Highlands Palermo Viejo RIVUE Restaurant & Lounge Seviche Sweet Surrender The Irish Rover Uptown Café Vincenzo’s Winston’s Restaurant at Sullivan University

LouisvilleOriginals.com

JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horse shoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ D hp

LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p

Dine with the natives Asiatique August Moon Chinese Bistro Baxter Station Bar & Grill Bistro 301 Bistro Le Relais Bristol Bar & Grille Highlands Bristol Bar & Grille Jeffersonville, IN Bristol Bar & Grille Hurstbourne Bristol Bar & Grille Downtown Bristol Bar & Grille Prospect Buck’s Restaurant & Bar Café Lou Lou - Highlands Café Lou Lou - St. Matthews Come Back Inn Cumberland Brews De La Torre’s / La Bodega Equus / Jack’s Bar Hiko-A-Mon

fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ D p

MOZZ MOZZARELLA BAR & ENOTECA 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. Matthew Antonovich and Michael Cooper, alumni of Casa Grasanti’s, have energized their corner space on the edge of NuLu. Choose your dining locale:the fresh mozzarella bar, the upscale enoteca section emphasizing “rustic earth-to-table eating,” or the trendy NuLu East Market Lounge. $$$ D hpe THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) continues to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA fivediamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ Br D pe RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239. The sleek black and white moderne decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. Chef Brian Riddle’s menu, with a local emphasis and upscale flourishes, adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers a broad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes. Lamas has recently been getting national notice in Esquire and on TV’s “Extreme Chef,” and with the renovation and expansion of the restaurant now complete, he is setting a new standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe

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WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ Br L D p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. The successful upscale steak and oyster concept that has worked so well in the Hurstbourne suburbs will now also be the theme at Z’s sleek downtown venue. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience will give conventioneers and other visitors another center-city choice. $$$$ L D hp

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails. The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$$ D hfe ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ Br D hpf AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ Br L D p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. Now serving a value-oriented casual menu, with $30 Thursdays couples specials and Wednesday Ladies Night with half-price drinks and appetizers, Avalon continues its tenure as one of the snazzy joints along the Bardstown Road corridor. We always try to sit on the three-season patio, one of the best in the city. $$$ L D hpfe BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp

The Perfect Location for Every Occasion

BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. (See listing under Bistro/Contemporary.) BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ B Br L D pe BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

KENTUCKY’S Y’S FIRST AND ONLY AAA FIVE DIAMOND AWARD RESTAURANT

Located in

500 South Fourth Street www.TheOakroomLouisville.com (502) 807-DINE

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fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and firstrate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant Renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D hpf CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanesestyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews) 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$$ Br L D hpf CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$$ L D hp DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. San Francisco chefs Annie Pettry and Loretta Keller bring their talents and a Bay-area vibe to Louisville. Making its home in a massive but intimate 1870s era building in the thriving NuLu area, with several well-tailored dining areas and outdoor spaces. The upscale cuisine features well-crafted “modern American” cuisine with Pacific Rim influences. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ D p GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Chef Harold Baker has been at the helm of this Irish Hill upscale casual spot since the start about a year ago. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant napoleon. $$$ D phpfe HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world focuses on locally sourced foods (Chodkowski and Chef Coby Ming are shooting for 80% from within 100 mile radius), which limits the fish selection, but increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville, KY, 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily 62 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artistâ€? creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e INTERMEZZO CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., (Actors Theatre) 561-3344. The elegant restaurant space in Actors Theatre of Louisville’s historic building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ D p J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary Americanâ€? fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp

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J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ D p JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. Thirty years of framed Derby programs and winning tickets line the walls. But you don’t have to place a bet to enjoy this rambling Buechel restaurant. The Porterhouse steak tastes good in the Bob Baffert Room whether or not your horse came in. $$$$ Br L D pfe

an extraordinary casual fine-dining experience with foods from local farms delivered at their peak of freshness and prepared and served at the summit of delicious.

KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ Br L D hpf MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009. Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$$ L D hpf

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MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish quarters of this popular East End restaurant. With an expanded menu serving both lunch and dinner, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s become one of the anchors of trendy Westport Village center. $$$ L D hpf NULU EAST MARKET LOUNGE 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. The popular E. Market Street restaurant Mozz expands its space in the Cobalt Ventures building with this new supper club environment. The lounge features a piano bar and octagonal â&#x20AC;&#x153;culinary theatreâ&#x20AC;? complete with mozzarella-making stations, a gelato freezer and a Champagne and caviar bar. Late Night at NuLu will transform the space into a retro discotheque complete with disco ball and light show. $$$ D hpe OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe P.F. CHANGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., (21c Hotel) 2176360. Seasoned executive chef Michael Paleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s everchanging creative menu continues to make Proof a des ti na tion dining spot, the culinary equal of the quirky 21c Museum Hotel which has garnered

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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national notice. Mediterranean in focus, with a commitment to using local products as much as possible, the adventurous dishes (grilled octopus, bison burgers, beef marrow, sea salt caramel gelato) are made with the freshest ingredients. $$$ Br L D hpf

BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ L D pf

RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. After a long apprenticeship in the New York restaurant world, Michael Trager-Kusman has returned to his hometown where he and his partner, Aaron Yarmuth, have invested in the renovation of the old Hausmann Jeep Eagle building on far east Market St. Operating the restaurant is front-of-the-house manager Erin McDonald, who came from Chicago, and Chef Tyler Morris, a veteran of The Breslin in New York. $$ L D hpf

THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. A popular hangout since its opening, this Euro-style gastropub features French country cooking and house-made sausages and charcuterie in a casual but sophisticated atmosphere in a late-19th century building in Butchertown. $$ Br L D hpe

SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. After a $5.8 million renovation, the Hyatt Regency, long without a signature competitive restaurant, is now back in the game, with one of the handsomest dining spaces around. The menu is based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway, which is an emphasis on fresh seasonal food with local sourcing whenever possible. The bar area opens onto Fourth Street, for superior people-watching. $$$ B L D hpf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.) WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner Susan Hershberg set the benchmark for fine catering in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry, which she continues here with her finely crafted small plates menu that changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Open Thur. - Sat. only. Reser vations suggested. $$ D pf YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

A.P. CRAFTERS KITCHEN & BAR 1321 Herr Ln., 690-5000. Tony Palombino stretches beyond his gourmet pizza with this new venture in Westport Village. The decor echoes the place’s name, with floor to ceiling shelving stocked with vintage cookware, distillery and brewer’s supplies. The menu concept is Euro gastropub, with upscale comfort food, craft beers and “Prohibition-style” cocktails. $$ L D hpf ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ L D pf 64 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, featuring the works of French-trained chef Michael Crouch. No, it’s a great bar, with what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. Actually, this Crescent Hill favorite is both, and the bill of fare is wellmatched with the excellence of its libations. Don’t miss the duck confit strudel appetizer. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is comfortable with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. A second location in the Douglass Loop is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ Br L D hp CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ B L D fe DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Former Asiatique bar manager Anderson Grissom has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale spot now open breakfast through dinner. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 6341447. Taking over the space vacated by the Germantown Pub, Four Pegs offers craft beer at approachable prices, as well as well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and a pork chop sandwich served with a Granny Smith apple slaw. Chef Matt Flink, formerly of Browning’s, helms the kitchen here. $ D h HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Two veterans of the upscale kitchens along Bardstown Road have taken over the old Swan Dive space, and patrons of the previous vegan haunt are quickly becoming fans. Vegetarian selections such as crispy mushroom medley and veggie tacos join interesting oddities like duck sliders and bacon plantain croquetas. Also pulled pork and brisket, crab cakes, and a reasonable beer selection. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but

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you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. The owners of the Louisville Beer Store have converted a former church to a beer pub and restaurant. Twenty taps offer a rotating choice of international brews, and an eclectic menu offers Belgian fritjes, pretzels and beer cheese, tacos and crostini. $ L D he JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ L D hpe L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with more than 80 wines available by the glass. Comfortable atmosphere and excellent bistro fare with a creative twist add to the draw. $$$ D hpf MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Long-time restaurateur and top-notch host Majid Ghavami’s has a track record of making flailing restaurants successful. His newest venture, in a St. Matthews space that has been problematic for others, offers a Mediterranean-American menu. The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ Br D pfe THE NA EXCHANGE 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 948-6501. This gastropub continues to be a major player in New Albany’s dining revival with clever but accessible American bistro style food available from lunch to late night. Notable on the menu are bison dishes — burger, nachos (house-made chips with bison chili topping) and skirt steak. $$ L D

hpfe

RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban. Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf RED HOG TAPAS 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. By day, it’s the Blue Dog Bakery and Café, but on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights it takes on its new identity as a tapas bar, featuring, among other dishes, the cured pork products that coowner Bobby Hancock creates from his own red wattle hogs. A nice beer wine and spirits selection, to go with the fish flautas, catfish brandade and charcuterie. $$ p D hp RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 Indy International Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and Italian-inspired menu, featuring brink-oven pizzas, draw appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ Br L D e THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. The old firehouse in Clifton is now a honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) focused on the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has been an imme diate hit. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch or vodka. $$ Br L D hpf

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THEATER SQUARE MARKET PLACE 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Up front in the old Kentucky Theater is a deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular bar is the serene dining room, with a central hearth, and beyond that, a large enclosed patio. Chef Dallas McGarity’s seasonal menu cleverly fuses culinary concepts: crawfish arancini, duck confit ragout and curry-seared scallops, for instance. $$ L D hpf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L

popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f

sandwich, salad and soup sections of the menu, but they will have to co-exist with carnivores. The menu insists, though, that “all meats [are] produced from humanely raised, grass-fed animals and are produced without added hormones.” $ B Br L

CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L

ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 455 S. Fourth St., (Starks Bldg.) 585-5120. These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ B L

CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f

BLOOM’S CAFÉ 307 Wallace Ave., 896-8008. After a brief interruption this summer, this long-time St. Matthews ladies’ lunch spot is open again for sitdown business (it was carry-out only for a few months). The renovated space is a bit smaller, but the home-style cooking is as fresh and satisfying as ever. $ B L

NEIGHBORHOOD CAFÉ 119 St. Matthews Ave., 893-4434. A St. Matthews soup and sandwich haven with a twist. Serving everything on the menu but the soups in a house-made waffle cone — really. Settle down morning or afternoon with a latte or cappuccino (not available in a cone). $ B L NONNIE’S KITCHEN 11601 Main St., Middletown, 245-4411. Picturesque downtown Middletown needs pleasant places for ladies to lunch, and Nonnie’s Kitchen now occupies the space that once housed Tiffany Cellars Café. A mother-son team from Chicago has hit the ground running, with a menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts that have delighted early adopters. $ L f

BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Still a popular breakfast and lunch spot as well as an artisanal bakery, producing hearty European-style breads that can be found on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. But on Thursday through Saturdays nights, owners Kit Garrett and Bobby Hancock have started tapas service, many small plates featuring pork cured by Hancock from his own heritage pigs (see the blurb at Red Hog Tapas). $$ B L f

NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770, 2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Now with a second location in Douglass Loop, folks in the Highlands, as well as Clifton, can enjoy North End’s hearty and unusual breakfast, or satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpf

BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this lunch spot offers standard American café fare. $ L

CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ B L CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves 66 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alter na tive to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf

MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ B L D f

AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp

CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ B L

HOME PLATE CAFÉ 400 E. Main St., 618-4205. The former Blue Mountain Coffee House site on the corner of Main and Preston, across from Slugger Field, is serving up salad, soups and sandwiches. $ B L

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f

THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880. It started as a suburban coffee bar and café offering continental breakfasts and sandwiches. But in no time Anchorage Café has morphed into a premium bakery and Anchorage-area go-to spot for eclectic, farm-to-table meals at lunch and dinner. And it still offers excellent espresso. $ B Br L D f

BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1474. Both loca tions of this long-time ladies’ lunch favorite, in an attractive old-house on Bardstown Road and inside Dolfinger’s in St. Matthews, offer interesting, pleasant lunch fare, with very appealing dessert choices. $$ L

HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h

QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 725-9393. Vege tarians and vegans can find a lot to love here in the

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN (Sheraton Hotel), 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf STOP LITE CAFÉ 1348 River Rd., 584-3746. $ L STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. Now well-settled in its new location just off East Broadway, The Café serves an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. And the new space retains the old place’s yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere. $ B Br L f

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THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. For more than 25 years this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 893-2324. Tenant turnover in Chenoweth Square opened up a space for long-time Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant to extend her presence in St. Matthews with a café. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her takeaway business so popular. $ B L VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing minichain’s third outlet. $ B Br L p WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ L YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222, 1489 S. Fourth St., 618-4201. $ L D hf ZIALALA CAFÉ 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 713-5803. The owners, of Venezuelan and Italian backgrounds, tout their Middletown eatery as a “Latin café with a European flair.” The eclectic menu includes arepas, pizzettes (individual thin-crust pizzas), muffuletta, egg salad sandwiches, panini and empanadas with Chilean, Puerto Rican and Jamaican flavors. $ L D f

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ L D EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f FISH-FRY HOUSE 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583. The owners of Sharom’s and Zaytun have opened a new fish house, serving up the crisp, fresh fried seafood that made Sharom’s an Okolona favorite. $$ L D hp THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ Br L D f

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THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ L D JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes

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the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucketof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf SHAROM’S 5637 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as frog legs, shrimp and alligator. $$ L D f

CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader’s idea to cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices hit such a popular nerve that he opened two more locations on the Kentucky side of the river. The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp

EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuous renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar opening onto Fourth Street, and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ D hpe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399,

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1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Be sure to bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ D pf PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D THE ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 113 S. Seventh St., 618-1917. Two Philadelphia restaurateurs have brought this new upscale eatery and cocktail lounge, upstairs in the same building Morton’s steakhouse. The menu turns back the clock to early 1900s style food — dishes like crab Louie, shrimp cocktail, steak Diane, and coq au vin, with a “highlevel” cocktail program. $$$$ D hp STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 2809160, Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160. 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp

B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln., (Crown Plaza Hotel) 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ L D f BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. The Brickhouse Girls, wearing tight black baby Ts and denim minis, serve typical bar food, beer and ale and cocktails, and encourage patrons to play beer pong. This has to be a winning corporate concept, don’t you think? $$ L D hpf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of allAmerican fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. New delivery and catering operations extends the brand beyond the three locations. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D hf CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN. 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating,

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. Hurricane Katrina blew chef Richard Lowe into town, bringing from New Orleans his Cajun/ Creole/Caribbean magic to Coach Lamp’s kitchen. The restored 137-year-old building has a classic bar on one side and an upscale white-tablecloth dining room on the other side. $$$ L D pf CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular East End spot. $ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ Br L D hpf EDESIA GARDENS 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 263-7100. Named after the Roman goddess of gourmet foods, this banquet and events space also offers a Sunday brunch buffet to the public. $$ Br FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102, 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 962-9999. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little near-West End place (that has just opened a second location) is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshlygrilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough

condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’ roll sensibility. $ L D FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 290-7273. Since 1952, serving up rolled oysters, German comfort food and fried chicken to Germantown residents and fans from far and wide. Where else can you find limburger and braunsweiger with onions on rye and Warsteiner on draft? $ D f GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. This new venture from Michael Paley of Proof, housed in a former service station in NuLu, serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a wood-fired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. $$$ D hpf GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 3825 Taylor Blvd., 361-1106. The name says most of what you need to know. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced. The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggest sellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D

HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ L D hpfe KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ L D pf LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ L D hpe LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447. A serious restaurant hides behind the funky décor and madcap events (like the annual New Year’s Eve pajama party and the Ugly Lamp contest). The Bourbon Ball French toast beat Bobby Flay on a Throwdown. And everyone loves the fried green tomato BLT. The World of Swirl store in the front has been described as “Cracker Barrel on acid.” $$ B Br L D pf MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ B L MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service. A rooftop patio packs them in on warm evenings. $ L D hpfe MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoe-shaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports.

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The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ L D hpf NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always freshly made. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $$ B Br L PAULA DEEN BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Bubbly Paula extends her food empire to Horseshoe Casino. Modeled after her restaurants, the motif is based on the architecture of Savannah, Ga., where she lives. Of course, there’s a shop attached, where you can purchase aprons, cookbooks, cookware and her new furniture line. $$$$ B Br L D PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. This newly renovated casualdining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D hp PUB LOUISVILLE 412 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 569-7782. Owned by Cincinnati’s The Tavern

Restaurant Group, The Pub features “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ L D hpfe RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391. This Columbus-based wings-andbrews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first three Louisville properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. The owners are scaling back, though, and opening only on Fridays and Saturdays. $ D hp

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been running his popular Southern Indiana institution for over 17 years now, feeding an army of happy diners. You’ll find his extensive and child friendly menu at a second location in Floyds Knobs. $$ L D hp SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky location serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ L D f STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. Gabe Sowder, formerly of 610 Magnolia, set out on his own serving funky tacos at the Douglass Loop Farmer’s Market.

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But now the Iron Chef alum (he was part of Edward Lee’s 2010 winning team) has taken over the old Toast on Market space to continue his exploration of everyone’s favorite “Mexican” food. House-made tortillas packed with ingredients ranging from traditional to the unique — duck, lamb and chorizo — make up the bill of fare. $ L D hf

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D

TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S, Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf

CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h

TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. This local breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth, and opened a second outlet across the river. The original NuLu location has moved out of the funky, cavernous old theater building to the former Artemisia a few doors west. $ B Br L pf TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy. 524, Westport KY, 222-4626. It may be in the country, and you may feel far from the big city, until the food comes. Along with the requisite meat loaf and pork chops, you’ll find such ambitious fare as chicken buccatini and blackened scallops. $$$ D pe THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 9200080. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville has its own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L D h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all homecooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D CARLY RAE’S 103 W. Oak St., 749-6665. The Old Louisville corner place with the great fenced-in patio has reopened with the same name, but new owners, with a focus on soul food. $$ L D hpfe CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ L D pf 72 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ L D D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ B L D DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria — including politicians and national entertainers — are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026. Everything at Granny’s Apron is homemade by owner Jan Bradley, and it tastes that way: Dinner here will remind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $ B L D HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ B L D HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 1085 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3780. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy., 937-6332. Country cooking is Jessie’s specialty, with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ B L D

KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $LDh KUM’S KAFE 4125 Preston Hwy., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ L MIKE & MATT’S 2835 Holman Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 590-1565. Good country cooking in the Amish tradition. Fried chicken, of course, but also more interesting dishes such as walleye, elk, quail and frogs’ legs. Real mashed potatoes and made-fromscratch pies a specialty. $$ L D f MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both the Butchertown and new downtown location. $$ L NANA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp QUEENIE’S SOUL CUISINE 2956 Richland Ave., 4514698. Queenie has been cooking for her 13 siblings since she was a teenager. Finally she is getting paid to do it. She and her son serve breakfast, lunch and dinner: chicken and waffles, meatloaf, a soul burrito, chicken (fried, smothered or baked) and daily specials. $$ L D f SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack—salt and pepper. $ L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $BL

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This little spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from

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Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ B L LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ L D PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ L D

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. There is food and beverage service, but it is not a dinner theater. $$ Br D hpfe DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that features a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe IMPROV COMEDY CLUB & WET WILLIE’S 441 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 581-1332. The menu is no joke at this downtown club. Chow down on well-grilled steaks, fresh seafood and ribs that rank with the best in the city before the nationallyknown comedy acts start. $$$ L D hpf INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. “Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ L D hp JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reser vations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

ACHILLES PIZZA 1730 Williamsburg Sq., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8882. $$ L D h ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D

ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $$ L D h BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyncratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphousestyle menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies carves its own niche with bottled beer exclusively. $$ B Br L D hf BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ L D hp BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, and the menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlands location boasts one of the only “frost bars” in the area — a refrigerated rail designed to keep your brew cool. $$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN 288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza and owner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back in the kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of downtown J’ville, serving up well crafted traditional pies whole or by the slice. $$ L D h CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionallysourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $$ L D h DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424. The former Karem’s Deli location in St. Matthews finally has a new tenant, serving pizza by the slice, as well as a mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers, including some BBC brews. $$ L D hpf FX PIZZA 4865 Old Vincennes Rd., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0086. The Newton brothers of Southern Indiana, veterans of the corporate chain pizza world, have named their own pizzeria after their grandfather, Francis Xavier. In addition to handtossed thin-crust, New York-style pies, FX offers chicken wings and breadsticks, and its owners are planning a nine-hole miniature golf course. $$ L D FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $$ L D h FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000. Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ L D h

SERIOUSLY

GOOD

PIZZA, CALZONES

AND 110 BEERS. Since 1976, Old Chicago has been serving up fresh-made food, 110 beers from around the world and great times.

HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ L D h JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 749-8400. The Kansas City chain has opened its first location in Kentucky, in Norton Commons, offering New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L D hp KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York Citystyle pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h

Eat. Drink. Be Yourself.™

10601 FISCHER PARK DRIVE 502.657.5700 9010 TAYLORSVILLE ROAD 502.301.7700 74 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ L D NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s

remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $$ L D h OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has opened a handsome new site near the new arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $ L D h PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D PAPALINOS 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515, 337 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1505. After satisfying Highlands customers with his crispy-crust New York-style pizzas — specializing in premium, made in-house toppings — former restaurant chef turned pizza guy Allan Rosenberg has opened a second store, near U of L. The college trade can share his 18-inch pies, scarf down an oversized slice for a snack, or make a meal from the calzones, breadsticks and short list of salads and desserts. $ L D h PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644. Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Avenue. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 2828286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ L D PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D

hpf

PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ L D ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844, 3022 Bardstown Rd. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appellation, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of ItalianAmerican entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana and some hoppy draft. Now with a second location on Bardstown Road. $ L D hpf ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484. This Middletown pizzeria has been wowing customers for a while with its store-made crusts, and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go for the Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf

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SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D hf

BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f

SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D hf

BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 6181158. The bagel / deli sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f

SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ L D SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded into St. Matthews, and now downtown too. All four locations are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ L D h STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ L D TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. Long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 Grinstead Dr., 690-8871. Finally the attractive space at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Grinstead is luring some commercial occupants. The first restaurant in there is a pizza concept from the guys behind Moe’s Southwest Grill. Order at the counter from a range of custom choices and your pizza gets delivered to your table. $$ L D VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ L D hp WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza) 409-4267. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D hpf

BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers customcut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAFÉ PALACIO 4010 Dupont Circle, 708-1818. Serving breakfast (omelets, scrambles, French toast) and lunch (burgers, grilled chicken Tuscany, vegetarian wraps) to workers in the Dupont area five days a week. $ B L CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ L D f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L

DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ B L

BABY D’S BAGELS & DELI 2009 Highland Ave., 365-3354. This new Highlands deli serves steamed bagel sandwiches and wraps, made with housesmoked and roasted meats. Look for funky sandwich names and desserts such as chocolatecovered bacon. Open for breakfast and lunch every day and late-night Thursday-Saturday. $ B L D h

EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ B L f

BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D

THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ L

BOARDWALK FRESH BURGERS AND FRIES 2909 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN. With outlets in 12 states, Boardwalk now brings their fresh fries and burgers concept to the Ohio Valley. A step up from fast food with large patties that can be dressed to one’s whim. $$ L D

FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113 Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-style

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ B L D HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiralsliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 976 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393, 415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN. 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6700, 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8884, 341 W. Cardinal Blvd., 634-3334. This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f JOE DAVOLA’S 901 Barret Ave., 690-5377. Near the government center in the lower Highlands, this popular sandwich shop features healthful choices for lunch. $ L LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ L D f LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. This outfit prepares its share of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ L MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MAIN STREET COFFEE AND DELI 217 E. Main St., 992-8080. Offering sandwiches made from housesmoked and cured pastrami, sorghum bacon and other artisanal foods. $ B L f 76 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 5872353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ L NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f THE PBJ SHOP 440 S. Third St., 439-8443. Yep, it’s all peanut butter and jelly, plain or snazzy, with honey or banana slices or bacon strips or a slab of bologna. A choice of jelly flavors and breads, of course, or you can forgo the bread and have your PB on apple slices or celery. And, they cater! $ B L PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100. Downtown lunch goers have a new sandwich choice in this Chicago-based chain that is now franchising. The Fourth and Jefferson St. location is run by two escapees from the financial services world who depended on Chicago Potbelly sandwiches to get them through grueling trading sessions. $ L D QUIZNO’S SUBS (7 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken

barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans have to wait til spring. $ L f SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunky new downtown breakfast and lunch place has goals of serving more healthful — and tasty — choices. Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s, a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, corn syrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clever names — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mama wrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there are also salads and daily soup specials. $ B L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store will evoke the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ L D f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and more. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ L D THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ L D TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 5819200. $ L THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ L W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ L D h WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another new chain sets up shop downtown, giving all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

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B3Q BBQ 8271 State Rd. 64, Georgetown IN, 9513900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Carry out and catering only. $ L D f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9901 LaGrange Rd., 426-6666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ L D DERBY CITY BBQ AND CATERING 2932 S. Fourth St., 690-4204. $ L D DUVALLE GRUB-N-SCRUB 3501 Cane Run Rd., 7721277. Pull into this Shively carwash and get some Boss Hog’s BBQ while the boys detail your wheels. Ribs and rib tips, chicken wings, hamburgers, pulled pork and chicken, milk shakes, and soft serve cones. $ L D FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200454. Barbecue finally joins the restaurant renaissance in New Albany, with the renovation of a stately old commercial building into a full-service smokery. Owner Ryan Rogers, graduate of the French Culinary Institute, plans to offer sloooowsmoked meats and New Albany’s largest selection of bourbons. $ L D hpf FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 995-7585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ L D FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. $ L D pf HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smoked on the premises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ L D f JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f

MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked takehome turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smokey Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ L D RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ L D RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 116 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. House specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe SHANE���S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422. A new smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” does double-duty at this TexMex storefront just east of Old Louisville in the Smoketown neighborhood. Ribs are juicy and smoky; the pinto beans and the Blue Bunny ice cream from Texas are not to be missed. $$ L D f

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. This recent addition to the Baxter corridor, offers bar food, luring both rockers and good ol’ boys with a combination of rock and country and western in its music plan. $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette Ct., 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 285-9464, 5501 Valley Station Rd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D hf BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf THE BREWERY 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. First renovated in 1984, including the antique bar from the old Kunz’s, the original owners are back from a decadelong hiatus serving wings and calamari, chili, salads, burgers, sandwiches, subs and pastas. And beer. $$ L D

hpfe

BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ L D hpfe BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trade mark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464. $ L D hpf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing. A game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 6714246. Another popular option at the striking downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ L D hp

SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D hp

CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf

TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 2419227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops. Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

CORNER DOOR BAR & GRILL 2222 Dundee Rd., 708-2885. This Douglass Loop spot features craft brews on tap, a tasteful selection of wine, and reasonably priced food, including the signature Zip Burger and ribbon fries. The Facebook page also boasts “the best-looking bartenders and wait staff in the Highlands.” $ L D hpfe

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DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 895-7513. $ L D hpfe

signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp

baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe

DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr.,384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group now has two Louisville outlets, the first in the old Burdorf’s building in St. Matthews and the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Familyfriendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf

GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Hilton Garden Inn. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf

MAIN ST. TAVERN 122 W. Main St., 384-0151. Longstanding blues bar Zena’s closed, but fans were relieved when the funky downtown space was reopened by the owners of Amici in Old Louisville, who continue to offer great music and even better bar food. $ L D hpe

HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have taken over this prime Clifton location, once the original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp

MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2-pound burger menu — jalapeno burger, bacon burger, mushroom burger — plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ L p

HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf

NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe

FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a Wichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiard tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ L D hpfe GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the

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HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ L D hpf JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish

ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoalgrilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf RUMBALL’S FAMILY SPORTS BAR 5901 Terry Rd., 365-2781. A family-centered sports bar, with a welcome focus on scratch cooking (the chicken strips are cut in-house from actual chicken breasts) with a “Little League Menu” to appeal to the small fry. Along with wraps and salads, the regulars like the deep-fried burger. $$ L D hpf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to

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explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramont Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. $$ L D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd., (Mid City Mall) 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into the newest addition to the Whiskey Row. Excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse, the renovation boasts lots of dark, brink-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf

bistro cuisine. Mussels and frites will always be available, and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ L D pf BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 660 S. Fourth St., 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007. More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Now serving at a third restaurant site near the new arena. $$ L D hpfe CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ L D hf GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has taken over the key corner location at 4th and Liberty, and will be brewing their characteristic German-style bottomfermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pubgrub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h

AL NUUR 2933 S. Fourth St., 210-7623. Another outlet for Arabian food, but one that goes beyond the usual. You can find long-braised lamb shank and roasted goat, as well as shish kebabs, fish and spaghetti. Take out or eat in. $ L D BELA’S CAFÉ 2933 S. Fourth St., 681-4909. This little Somali café caters mostly to the Muslim community settling in around Churchill Downs, offering cheap, filling, and interestingly spiced foods such as sambusas and nafaqo — a hardboiled egg in a crust of potato and ground beef, a kind of African Scotch egg. $ L D CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ L D h MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent

VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000. This Texasbased chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways.$$ L D hp ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ L D hpfe

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth have teamed up to open a new brewery in Butchertown. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, will serve up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. The food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has sharpened into Belgian-style

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113. An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ L D CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters 80 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 4918228. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this new hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 945-1818. $ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar ChineseAmerican plates or indulge your more adventurous side with more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ L D f JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ L D h LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D MING’S BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893-0822. Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ L D

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $ L D SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St., 568-8833. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ L D h WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881. $ L D

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s first Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $ L D TAMBAYAN KARAOKE BAR & FILIPINO RESTAURANT 9601 Newbridge Rd., 749-2727. $$ L D h

ARATA SUSHI 9207 US 42, 409-4880. Prospect gets a sleek sushi place, with crisp dark modern interior, well-prepared fresh fish and rolls, and a fine selection of sakes. $$ L D p

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ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ L D h BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $$ L CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy between shopping. $ L D DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444. Owner Toki Masubuchi‘s audacious take on fusion cuisine seems to have hit a nerve at this popular café at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Elmwood. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists:, pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L D hp

tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Toki, the original owner of Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”-style restaurant, is back at the helm, serving elegant Japanese cooking in the style of Kansai, the region surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ D hf MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ L D hpf OASIS SUSHI & SOUL 3311 Preston Hwy., 3758766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya Sushi Bar have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ D h OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829, 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot has opened a second location in the Upper Highlands. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing

Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ L D hp SATO’S ZEN SUSHI & SAKE 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 608-1866. The menu of this new Japanese restaurant boasts “Zen salads,” soups, sushi, green tea, red bean and tempura ice cream, and a variety of flavored sakes. $$ L D h SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food

HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofumaking room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his artistic skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D hp I LUV SUSHI & TERIYAKI 2017 Brownsboro Rd., 893-8226. This bargain-priced Clifton spot has pleased its patrons with eclectic Asian food such as noodle dishes and Korean-inspired fare as well as the sushi. $$ L D h ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the tradi tional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets another choice in sushi bars, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp

well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D

LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h

TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D

SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained Thai chef have built upon the popularity of their St. Matthews spot and opened a second location in Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thaistyle “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f

NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the bahn mih and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f

TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions. Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ L D h WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. The old Café Metro space did not molder long—this sushi and Asian fusion spot has been pulling in intrigued customers who admire the sushi bar up front, and explore the pan-Asian menu. Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuanstyle crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad Thai and curries). $$ L D hp

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oeschli Ave., 290-8900. This St. Matthews site behind the Old Sears building housed several other restaurants, and now the promise of Korean food in St. Matthews has many ethnic food fans salivating. $ L D KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h SOORA KOREAN RESTAURANT 2840 Goose Creek Rd., 339-5888. The big space on Goose Creek has seen a lot of ethnic food service in the last few years — Latino, Turkish, and now Korean. If you are familiar with Korean foods, there will be little to surprise you. Barbecues and bee bim bop. $$ L D

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ L D hpf SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of 82 Summer 2012 www.foodanddine.com

TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI ORCHIDS 9114 Taylorsville Rd., 493-4073. This location has been known for good Thai restaurants, and the short history of Thai Orchids shows that they have picked up the mantle, providing Jeffersontown-area lovers of southeast Asian cuisine with excellent noodles and curries. $$ L D THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ L D THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ L D TRUE THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992. A bright, attractive little place (just 4 tables) run by a former employee of Thai-Siam, one of Louisville’s longest running Thai restaurants. Thirty standard Thai dishes (pad thai, curries, fried rice) priced under $10. $ L D

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf

PEARL Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-7662648. Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, elegantly served, Pearl is the newest dining choice at Horseshoe Casino. Signature dishes include Vietnamese spring rolls, pho, ginger and scallion fried lobster and crispy salt and pepper shrimp. $$ L D hp PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ L D SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthews diners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are all choices on the menu. $$ L D h SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989. Vietnamese cuisine joins the choices for residents, with this newest addition to the dining array at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne (where Masterson’s used to be). $ L D h VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919. Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, family-owned Bosna-Mak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Bill Lynch and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe GHYSLAIN ON MARKET 721 E. Market St., 690-8645. In a carriage house behind the building that houses the corporate offices of Creation Gardens, a French bistro, run by French Canadian chocolatiers who are expanding their Indiana patisseries into restaurants and Kentucky. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ L D LA COOP: BISTRO À VINS 732 E. Market St., 4102888. The Ton brothers are trying it again in NuLu. The former 732 Social location has been renovated, and Bobby Benjamin, recently chef at the Oakroom, will head the kitchen. The general menu concept will be French country cooking, but done with modern touches such as sous vide. $$$ B L D hpf

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LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-1222. The New Albany dining renaissance gains a French bistro to extend the range of international dining options. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau will serve prix-fixe dinners typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$ D p

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ L D h ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong German heritage, Louisville is woefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ D GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

Food

&Drink

> enue 983 Goss Av

m i n u t e s IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 944-1929. The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring to the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ D hpe

•seasonally conscious menus •15 wines by the glass •21 Beers on tap

European +american cuisine

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502/290-2390 • EiDERDOWNGERMANTOWN.COM

OPEN: TuesWedThurs: 4-11pm • FriSat: 11:30am-Midnight • Sun: Noon-10pm • Mon: CLOSED

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 4933585. $ L D hpfe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This newest downtown creation of the O’Shea’s pub mini-empire has beautifully refurbished one of the old warehouses just east of the new stadium, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. Now the owners have rehabbed the funky underpinnings of their building into a bar area and dubbed it “The Cellar” with an aggressive Bourbon program and live entertainment being the focus. $$ L D hpfe RI RA IRISH PUB 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic

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Irish experience,” this growing chain is ensconced in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. Highland residents hankering for simple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can find just that in this Italian bistro. The menu offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ L D hp BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe

BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp

MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf

CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D hpf

MOZZ MOZZARELLA BAR & ENOTECA 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. (See review under Fine Dining.)

COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ L D LA BOCCA 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. This addition to the dining explosion in New Albany serves Italian cuisine, such as chicken piccata and rigatoni Bolognese. Zeppole on the dessert menu bespeaks the New York bono fides of the owner. $$ L D pf LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Con tinental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ D f

MOZZARIA ITALIAN EATERY 450 S. Fourth St. Matt Antonovich of Mozz has stepped into the old Red Star space at 4th Street Live with his new causal Italian birreria and gastropub. Look for dishes that made New York’s Little Italy a mecca for devotees of classic Italian-American pastas. Also, Roman-style flatbread pizzas and lighter chicken, beef and seafood fare from the grill. $$ L D hpfe OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.) ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ L D TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp VICARIO’S 7773 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-1000. $$ L D hp VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ D hpfe

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DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella. But the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ D hp

TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Next door to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanishstyle tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ D hp

AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D

LA COLOMBIANA 808 Lyndon Ln., 742-1179. Colombian cuisine is a variant of Latino cooking new to the area. Many of the dishes at this Lyndon-area restaurant feature the arepa, a thick corn cake, including huevos pericos conrepa, a brunch dish. Look for plenty of beef on the menu, including lengua, tongue. Friendly service and no language barrier. $$ L D p

BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461. Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ D pf

CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf

found a new location in a former pizza joint out on Preston, which continues to grow its own international restaurant row. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and felafel. $$ L D h PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $$ L D PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D

GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D f

SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. Although Majid Ghavami has sold his interest in his downtown Persian restaurant, he sold it to Reza and Mimi Dabbagh, (she also co-owns August Moon), who are keeping on most of the staff and continuing with the popular menu: rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf

MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. The owners of Little Jerusalem lost their lease on Taylor Blvd., and

SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ BL D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 479-3353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-battered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabistyle (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ L D f SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurst bourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ L D

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who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ L D f

Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas. Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ L D pfe

SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 4269954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local minichain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ L D f

HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting and consistently busy Cuban restaurant has opened a second location, in Middletown, in the strip mall location formerly occupied by Pig City BBQ. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf

ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands Middle Eastern eatery—excellent gyros kick it up a notch. $ L D h ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has two Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Ln., 425-0096, 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 589-9245, 3115 S. Second St., 3638888, 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ B L D f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ L D p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. Owner Alan Salmon has brought his Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experience to the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration and renovation were extensive, turning this Anchorage roadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona. $ L D CUBANA RESTAURANT 2206 Frankfort Ave., 4094828. Cuban food, a growing segment of the ethnic offerings in town, has another outlet in the busy upper Clifton/lower Crescent Hill dining core. Usimg local, seasonal food sources, the menu offers weekly specials that tap into the larger Caribbean/ Central American food traditions. $$ L D pf

LAS PALMAS CUBAN BAKERY AND CAFÉ 4806 Bardstown Rd., 290-5690. Billing itself as the “first authentic Cuban bakery in town,” this little eatery out on Watterson Trail offers Cuban sandwiches, desserts (including tres leches cake) and a variety of pastries. $ L D STRAIGHT OUT DA KITCHEN 1610 Dixie Hwy., 4096565. Soul food with a Jamaican accent at this little take out place just west of Old Louisville. $$ L D

ADOBO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5612 Bardstown Rd., 618-3430. Fern Creek gets some spicy Mexican with this eatery. The guacamole bar offers a huge portion in a rough stone mortar, just the thing to munch on while sipping a margarita special. $$ L D p ALEXZANDER TAQUERIA 8206 National Turnpike, 384-2530. Open til 2:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday to satisfy your late-night taco cravings. $ B L D BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A down town location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f CAFÉ AROMA 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-3434. Once Cycler’s Café, this little place is a true mom-andpop run family eatery. The ambitious, eclectic menu might be a stretch — stick to the Mexican fare that the owners know best. $ L D f EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarks ville IN, 285-8820. $ L D h EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Early fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, have found much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As authentic a take on Mexican seafood cookery as is possible in landlocked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy preparations of marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p

EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 Preston Hwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona. Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo (braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetable stew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas — a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D

EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf

HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-9760, 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-4434. Habana Blues’ success in New Albany has encouraged it to branch out with a new location in Louisville’s East End as well. The extensive

EL NOPAL (16 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf

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EL RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. Formerly El Rey’s, the new owner has spiffed the space up a bit, and aficionados of Mexican food speak well of the nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicierthan-usual queso. $$ L D p EL RODEO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics from salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ D p EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 1810 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272, 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf ERNESTO’S 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 6715291. One of the first of the more authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value. $ L D

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FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $ L D p GUACA-MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. Fernando Martinez, veteran of Havana Rumba and Mojitos, has graced the East End with his “creative Mexican” restaurant. The hyphenated name emphasizes the menu’s exploration of different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Early buzz is hot, for both the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Cristina. $$ Br L D pe LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ B L D LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938.$LDf LA PASADITA 245 Market St., Charlestown IN, 2567918. $ B L D LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 336 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-3620, 252 E. Market St., 589-5220. Starting as a little walk-in space, the popularity of La Rosita’s traditional Mexican food led to a move to a huge, former department store space near the action in the New Albany downtown renaissance. Continued consumer satisfaction has resulted in opening a second outlet on the edge of NuLu. $ B L D LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 284-1362. For those who crave tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These authentic little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 7423485, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. One of the most

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authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront has opened a second location, both offering memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ L D p LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ D hf LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf LOS MEZCALES 7502 Preston Hwy., 964-3466. A “family Mexican restaurant” on a strip with plenty of such to choose from. Serving huevos ranchero, burritos, chicken a la plancha and camarones a la diabla. $ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance in the E. Market St. Nulu district. Opening his stylish bistro, serving distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, before NuLu was fashionable. For the second year his Market Mondays promote locally-raised pastured meats. $$ L D

MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 9339523. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ L D pe MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880.$LDp PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (12 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ L D hp SANTA FE 318 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 2562595. $ L D SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D

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SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565. These four Mexican-American eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 459-7776, 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333, 520 S. Fourth St., 3150666, 129 W. Main St,. 583-5505. Saul Garcia, owner of this expanding chain, seems to have a knack for finding hot locations to serve his satisfying fare. He was down on Main St.’s museum row before the museums were, took over the former Raw space on the southern edge of the hot Fourth St. Live corridor, and now has his classiest location on Whiskey Row, a handsome renovation with a more sophisticated Mexican decor, and a broader Mexican menu. $ L D hpf TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell was born in Southern California, The Taco Tico chain has been gone from Louisville for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana Tex-Mex restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

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on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Bros. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ hfe CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 8936637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ L D f TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. (See review under Casual Dining) TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (15 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquitegrilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each Tumbleweed Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. Sip one while savoring the river-view at its flagship River Road location. $ L D hp

BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. (See review under Bistro/Contemporary.) CITY GIRL FARM COFFEE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 384-3280. This Middletown coffeehouse and café promises locally roasted coffee and fresh bakery and lunch items made from locally-sourced ingredients. $ f COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bards town Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an oldfashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ hf EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-6886. $ fe GREEN ROOM COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center, music lovers can find music-themed breakfast dishes to fortify them as they shop for instruments or practice their craft. $ e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 899-5551, 1295 Bardstown Rd., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 119 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9388, 3060 Bardstown Rd., 458-7770, 1301 Herr Ln., 425-9199, 822 Eastern Pkwy., 637-1060, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy. Spartan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted

HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ hf THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., New Albany IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ fe JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561 U.S. Hwy. 42, 2922710, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867.$ f OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0053. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 218-0611.$ PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. Another addition to the burgeoning choices in NuLu district, this little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $ f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN. This local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces has opened two

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new locations, in the new U of L.student housing, and in the midst of the NuLu action. $ f RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911. The drive-through take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) has added a space at Spalding, with an expanded menu and new cold-brewed iced coffee drinks. Excellent whole beans roasted on the premises are also available at groceries. $ SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this new coffeehouse and sandwich shop gives more choice to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah till 2 a.m. $ hf SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ e TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramanda Plaza Hotel) 491-4830. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $ VINT COFFEE 462 S. Fourth St., 561-2041, 516 W. Main St., 568-6339, 2309 Frankfort Ave., 8948060, 4901 Brownsboro Rd., 425-3688, 3600 Dutchmans Ln., 459-0660. Five Java Brewing Co. locations have assumed a new identity as VINT (although three other locations will remain under the Java name). The rebranding of the these spots reflects their assertion that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” Re-furbished interiors invite you in for morning coffee, afternoon tea or an evening of libations. $ f

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookie sells out. $ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B

CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940, 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House) 588-4097. Erika Chavez-Graziano has added a downtown outlet, along with her confectionary operation to the artsy Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bardstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the premises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of coffee. $ hf THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor made an immediate splash in its original Westport Village location with its intriguing range of flavors (salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter), and is in the throes of expansion, into the historic building on Frankfort next to the old Genny’s Diner and in the U of L project at the old Masterson’s site in Old Louisville. $ hf THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 9219 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$ DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865. The first of two new franchises in the area (the other will be in the East End). You will find hot sandwiches as well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you need to get you going in the morning or to get you steady enough to get home at night. $ B L h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573, 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4422. $ B L HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B JAMIE’S 14K CUPCAKES 938 Baxter Ave., 3651440. The cupcake shop has been a suburban mall phenomenon until now. Jamie’s offers Highlands residents many varieties of this currently trendy nosh, including cake pops and vegan and gluten free choices. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880. The first incarnation of this jokey concept did not quite work out, but new ownership is trying again, putting out good bakery products at reasonable prices. $ B RUDOLPH’S BAKERY AND COFFEE SHOP 1888 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 920-0273. Six days a week baking up early morning doughnuts, custom cakes and an ever-changing variety of cupcakes. $ B L SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ hf SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 4491008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery. Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but its renown stems from the Presidential donut, a cream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’s admiration. $ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN. 284-2867. $ B

HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6000, 2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6100. $ L D hf

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MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 92 1 downtown louisville 93 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 94 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 95 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 96 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 97 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 98 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 98 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 99 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 99 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 100 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 101 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 102 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 103 INDIANA 15 clarksville 103 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

MAP • 2

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

MAP • 3

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

MAP • 4

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

MAP • 5

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

MAP • 6

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MAP • 8

(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

MAP • 7

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MAP • 11

(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

MAP • 10

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

MAP • 12

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

MAP • 13

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

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MAP • 16

(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

MAP • 15

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Summer 2012 (Vol. 36)