EATINGOUTWEST
(Review)
THE BURGER JOINT When the gods invented burgers, this was what they had in mind. Tony Benjamin visits the Joint’s lively new candlelit premises in Clifton
W
hen they first opened in August 2009, it soon became apparent that the Burger Joint would outgrow their compact premises on Cotham Hill. The name might suggest a fairly unprepossessing lay-by greasy spoon, but young proprietor Dan Bekhradnia was aiming much higher. By using top-quality ingredients freshly prepared and cooked to order, the Burger Joint was transforming a fast-food staple into some very fancy eating indeed. And if this meant that it cost a bit more (a burger plus relevant trimmings will set you back around a tenner) or customers having to wait a while (it takes at least 15 minutes to put one together), it was clear that the burger-buying public were far from discouraged. On the contrary, they’ve been packing the place out on a regular basis, to the point where Bekhradnia bowed to the inevitable and looked for a bigger place. The Burger Joint’s new home is on Whiteladies Road - they’ve swapped premises with Planet Pizza - and smack opposite Ruby & White’s, the posh butchers that provide all their meat. They’ve kept the spare and functional wooden tables and unfussy decor but have acquired a fine flagstone floor and a more characterful room. They’ve also turned down the lights – there are even candles! - and created a place where you can really make a meal of your burger choice or even - gasp! - not have a burger at all but opt for one of their salad platters. We tucked into the ‘mezze’ selection of falafels, hummus, taramasalata and olives as a pitta-dunking distraction while our burgers were assembling themselves. A foray into the newly
“The venison is as rich, gamey and soft on the tongue as it should be. Nothing is greasy, everything is tasty. If only burgers were always this good” extended drinks menu gets a glass of presentable rioja for The Lovely She and a bottle of Bristol Beer Factory’s excellent Southville Hop for me - and, after a hard day at the office, it soon seems like the perfect place to be. Impressively, this being only their second day since reopening, we are far from alone, and within half an hour there’s not a spare chair to be had. The place gains a busy hubbub but all feels well under control, the liveliness, if anything, adding to the sense of anticipation. When our burgers arrive, it’s an interesting test of our selfrestraint. With all the choices on offer (nine different patties, 14 toppings and 13 sauces), the risk, obviously, is to overload the thing to the point where the muchvaunted burger disappears into an over-flavoured kaleidoscope of clashing flavours. The challenge is to hold off from the tempting but greedy possibilities. I’ve gone for
the venison burger and added English mustard, roast peppers and sour cream, with thick-cut chips on the side. She’s opted for the smaller version of the ‘veggie joint’ with mushrooms and dijonnaise and a side order of coleslaw. I trade some of my chips for a share of that salad, remembering it from Cotham Hill. It’s homemade and crunchily fresh with a light dressing and plenty of veggie flavours, and a splendid accompaniment to the meal. The vegburger has a crisp shell around a soft, almost sweet vegetable mix, hinting at carrot and parsnip. The venison is as rich, gamey and soft on the tongue as it should be. Nothing is greasy, everything is tasty and we relapse into satisfied silence for a while. If only burgers were always this good! It’s not too filling, either, leaving room to at least share a pud (homemade vanilla cheesecake
- firm and satisfying) and a sense of finer dining than your average US-style meal for around £20 a head. They’ve gained a broader menu and drinks list, as well as a BS8 postcode, from their move and, happily, they’ve lost nothing of the quality that made their reputation on the way. I’d say Clifton is the winner here.
CONTACT
THE BURGER JOINT 83 WHITELADIES RD, CLIFTON, BRISTOL. FFI: 0117 329 0887, WWW.THEBURGERJOINT.CO.UK THE VERDICT HHHHHHHHHH
Keep it simple, and quality ingredients speak for themselves
50 FOLIO/OCT 2012
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9/26/2012 4:55:50 PM