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2010 Mountain Country


Vacation Excursions Mountain Towns National Parks Regional Map


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34 YEARS OF INSPIRATION AT 6000 FT. JEWELRY ORIGINALS Gaslight Alley • Downtown Jackson Hole • 125 N.Cache • • 307.733.2259 ALL DESIGNS COPYRIGHTED

Contents RECREATION 16 20 21 22 26 28 32 34 40 44

Biking Rafting the Snake River Boating Information Fishing Hiking Climbing Horseback Riding Rodeos Jackson Hole Resort Grand Targhee Resort

NATURE 5 6 9 14 15

Greater Yellowstone Ecosytem Geotourism Wildlife Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center National Bighorn Sheep Center

36 38 42 48

Buffalo Bill Historical Center Buffalo Bill Dam Jackson Hole Historical Society Museum of the Mountain Man


TOWNS 36 39 40 42 46 50 50

Cody Alpine Junction Teton Village Jackson Pinedale West Yellowstone Dubois


51 Lodging Directory 52 Business Directory 54 Greater Yellowstone Map

Cover: Hiking Solitude Lake, Grand Teton National Park Contents: Biking Shadow Mountain, GTNP Photos by Wade McKoy and Bob Woodall Publishers Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy dba Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI)

Editors Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Photo Editor Eric Rohr

Art Director Janet Melvin

Distribution Managers FPI

Advertising Sales Nanci Montgomery, 307-699-1607 Kyli Fox Ike Faust Bob Woodall, 307-733-6995

Copyright 2010 by Focus Productions, Inc., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming, 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.

Mountain Country Adventure Guide is a free visitor’s guide published annually in May and distributed all summer at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, West Yellowstone, Pinedale, Dubois, and other regional communities, and at information centers throughout the Greater Yellowstone area.

Check out our magazines—the Jackson Hole Dining Guide, the Jackson Hole Skier, and the Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide —online at:

Order magazines, posters, and photos online. For mail-order copies of the current set of three magazines, send $12 to FPI Magazines, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001.

Lower Falls, Yellowstone River, Yellowstone National Park

The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem Large, rugged, and wild, these lands beckon travelers to appreciate and protect By Bert Raynes

Young grizzly bear

Photos: Bob Woodall

Pilot and Index peaks, Absaroka Mountains

You’ve arrived in what is known as the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE). It includes two national parks, seven national forests, numerous sections of Bureau of Land Management lands. There are wilderness areas, roadless areas, state lands too. It’s large (18 million acres) and largely unfenced. Whether this is your first visit or you’re revisiting Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks or the surrounding national forests or any gateway communities bordering the GYE, you will take home memories of the glorious natural wonders preserved for you in your public lands. Enjoy the world’s largest array of thermal features in Yellowstone

National Park, the world’s largest cold-water geyser near Afton, Wyoming, the impressive mountains throughout (with special attention to the Grand Tetons), the several national wildlife refuges, the scenic rivers, high-altitude Lake Yellowstone, the national forests. Enjoy seeing wildlife, much of it at ease where hunting is not allowed. Enjoy fishing and boating on placid lakes or on fast-flowing rivers. Enjoy walking, hiking, climbing, and bird watching. Smell the flowers. Taste the air. Stomp the snow or play in it. These are your year-round public lands.  Bird watcher, naturalist, and author, Bert Raynes has lived in Jackson Hole for almost 40 years. 2 0 1 0 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y A D V E N T U R E G U I D E



Photos: Bob Woodall

The National Geographic Society weighs in

A Yellowstone tour bus, circa 1930, departs Old Faithful Inn.

Blue Star Spring and Beehive Geyser (above); Opalescent Pool (top left)

In 1997 National Geographic senior editor Jonathan B. Tourtellot was asked for a term and concept more encompassing than “ecotourism” or “sustainable tourism.” So he and his wife, Sally Bensusen, put their heads together and coined the term “geotourism.” The National Geographic Society (NGS) defines geotourism as “tourism that sustains or enhances the geographical character of a place—its environment, culture, aesthetics, heritage, and the wellbeing of its residents.” This concept with a conscience has come to the Greater Yellow-

A roadside view in the Beartooth Mountains, looking down on Twin Lakes


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stone Ecosystem in a big way with the new Greater Yellowstone Geotourism Center (GYGC) in downtown Driggs, Idaho. “There is nothing else quite like it in the world,” says Teton Valley Chamber of Commerce booster Julie Brian. Which is just what you’d expect from the National Geographic Society. The site is not only a destination center for tourism, but an educational facility as well, housing exhibits on the region’s geological origins, Native Americans, explorers, traders, mountain men, art, and culture.

Photos: Bob Woodall

Near its headwaters, the Yellowstone River flows through the Thorofare, the most remote place in the Lower 48.

Wade McKoy

The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is one of the largest, intact temperate ecosystems in the world, still home to virtually all of the wildlife species encountered by Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery.

Fringed gentian

Cascade Canyon and the Middle Teton with its black dike

“The National Geographic Society is here for a reason,” says Bryan. “They saw the history, the beauty, the recreation, the wildlife— all that is worthy of preservation.” The GYGC also serves as anchor point of a newly designated scenic loop highway, the Yellowstone-Grand Teton Loop Road. The route circumnavigates Grand Teton National Park and traverses some of Yellowstone Park’s top attractions. The Greater Yellowstone Region Map Guide—free and loaded with local insight—highlights recreational and cultural opportunities, history, and other points of interest as it traces the 263-mile loop from Teton Valley, Idaho, north to West Yellowstone, Montana, east into Yellowstone Park and Old Faithful, south to Grand Teton Park and Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and then west over Teton Pass, before finally culminating in Teton Valley. The NGS community of geotourist places includes dozens of designations worldwide. The unique treasures of the Greater Yellowstone w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

Region are highlighted: • One of the largest, intact temperate ecosystems in the world, still home to virtually all of the wildlife species encountered by Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery • Headwaters of four major river systems—the Missouri, the Yellowstone, the Snake, and the Green—spawning renowned trout fisheries and clear waters • A core of public wild lands surrounding Yellowstone, the world’s first national park, and the dramatic landscapes of the Tetons • A rich cultural tapestry rooted in Native American tribal heritage, explorers, ranchers, farmers and miners, recreation, railroads, the Wild West and the New West Check out the new geotourism center in Driggs, Idaho, and ask for the free Greater Yellowstone Region Map Guide. You can also view the interactive map online at  — Mountain Country Adventure Guide


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Bull bison

Observing WILDLIFE

Stories from Valley So Sweet by Bert Raynes

Photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, Wild By Nature Gallery

Bert Raynes is a local, some say national, treasure. Like Mardy Murie and the Craighead brothers, Bert has devoted himself tirelessly to celebrating the flora and Raven fauna of the valley known as Jackson Hole. Its quiet majesty, its unspoiled beauty, and its perfectly balanced ecosystem remained unthreatened until the advent of “civilization.” Bert recognized this threat many years ago. Since then he has, through his books, his weekly column in the Jackson Hole News and Guide, and countless discussions with countless residents and visitors, made his case for the valley’s protection. His gentle but unmincing admonitions and distinct voice have w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e

Great gray owl

won him and the valley itself an army of loyalists. The following are excerpts from his book Valley So Sweet, available from any local bookstore. Buy the book. Bert and his valley will appreciate it. — The Editors

Welcome Back Summer

Today is the first day of summer. I take my clue from the western wood-pewee. When that flycatcher returns and begins to call, it’s summer for me, no matter what the sun or calendar says. On my stroll this morning, I was in late spring, accompanied by groups of western tanagers, mourning doves, yellow-headed blackbirds, a pair of redhead ducks and yellow warblers. I’d gone perhaps two-thirds of a mile when—from a stand of narrowcom

American kestrel

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In the Teton Wilderness lies a creek whose waters themselves divide, a portion flowing to the Atlantic, the remainder to the Pacific— appropriately called Two Ocean Creek. Baby bison with mother

very early in September, I’ll be outdoors in wood-pewee habitat and be vaguely ill at ease. It will occur to me that the western wood-pewee no longer calls. Then my summer will be over. Oh, there will be hot days yet in the year. The sun still powerful, a few birds still nesting, some even starting families. But summer is over. Today I simply call my call up into the trees: “Welcome back. Thanks for summer.” leaf cottonwoods—came the unmusical, insect-like peeurrr note of this, my personal signal bird. I had walked into summer. Oh, I know, I know. But summer is an attitude as much as a season. I’ve been in fierce valley snowstorms on July 4, the beginning of two weeks of bitter cold, wet weather that killed nesting birds and young animals. Summer? Not to me. It wasn’t even spring. It was late winter. Western wood-pewees seem to me—I have no field data to substantiate this—to wait deliberately until a good, steady supply of summer insects is assured before returning. When they, ah, sing, I call it summer. So sue me. Soon, too soon, that nasal peeurrr will recede into the background noise of summer, barely distinguishable from many similar sounds. Nature’s Muzak™, elevator sounds: it’s there, but not remarkable. The flip side of this start of summer will be, all too soon, the end. One day,

Western tanager


Across the Great Divide


I live west of the Continental Divide. The Continental Divide is a hydrographic distinction: rivers flowing east of the divide eventually end up in the Atlantic Ocean. Those flowing west of it end up in the Pacific. Distinction or not, unless you’re another Captain William Clark—the Clark of Lewis and Clark who possessed an uncanny ability to recognize the lay of the land—you might walk over the hump of the continent in these parts and entirely miss both its presence and significance. The Divide, however, is real and palpable; it’s worth

Bull moose

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Belted kingfisher

seeking out and recognizing. The Continental Divide is one of many reasons wildlife habitat varies so where I live. Its geology demarcates both dramatic and subtle changes in climate, forest types, topography, susceptibility to air stagnation episodes—and air pollution—and animal migration patterns. In the Rocky Mountains, the Continental Divide runs roughly northwest to southeast. It is never, ever, in a straight line. Jackson, Wyoming, is west of the Divide, as is all of Grand Teton National Park. Red Lodge and West Yellowstone, Montana, and Cody, Wyoming, are east of it. The Divide splits Yellowstone National Park: Yellowstone Lake and Old Faithful Geyser Basin are on

307.733.5599 | 80 Center St. Jackson Hole, Wyoming w w Great gray owl

the east side, the Snake River and its tributaries on the west. In the Teton Wilderness lies a creek whose waters themselves divide, a portion flowing to the Atlantic, the remainder to the Pacific— appropriately called Two Ocean Creek. The Divide may be imperceptible or dramatic. It may go unnoticed from the windows of a powerful vehicle or the back of a horse. It rests at 9,000 feet in most of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, climbing to a high point of just under 11,000 feet on Beartooth Pass near the Montana/Wyoming border. Elevation affects wildlife habitat as much as the Divide itself. Cody, Wyoming, is 5,000 feet; heck, corn actually grows and matures there. Red Lodge is 5,550 feet. Dubois, Wyoming, is 6,900 feet, but has a milder climate than Jackson at 6,200 feet, the result of rain and snow “shadows” cast by the Tetons. Thermal areas, differing soils, lakes and rivers all affect plants and animals. I try in my wanderings to be alert to these and other influences. In general: North-facing slopes, river edges (and sidewalks) keep their snowpack longer than slopes with other aspects; Douglas fir, spruce, and lodgepole forests tend to grow on them. South-facing slopes are often shrub-covered—“bare” in the vernacular. It’s cooler year-round on w w w. t e t o n a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

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Summer thunderstorm, Snake River Range


I like the various sounds of running water. Murmurs and bubbling, swishing and tumbling noises—even the ominous, deeper background sounds of flood-stage rivers. In my part of the world, river bottoms are cobble-lined; fast, high water brings a clickiting or clackiting as rock is carried along and eroded, accompanied by a tearing sound as uprooted trees and plant debris are transported to some new repose. The reverberation is superimposed upon an unsettling sensation felt through one’s feet north-facing slopes. Meadows lush at 8,500 feet are dry and sere at 6,000 feet, other factors being roughly equal. Sagebrush steppes are arid and harsh, as are alpine regions. Large tracts of unbroken lodgepole pine forests occur where I live. They’re usually quiet places without a rich and varied wildlife population. Alpine tundra also tends to harbor a limited spectrum of animals and plants. Ponds, lake edges, and river bottoms provide excellent wildlife habitat for animals large and small. In nature almost no niche remains in vacuo, but some habitats are distinctly more viable than others in supporting a diversity of wildlife species. Sometimes I use my knowledge to improve the odds of finding wildlife, deliberately directing my outings to aspen woodlands or river edges or areas I know a certain animal prefers. This is useful when taking a census of bald eagles or trumpeter swans, searching for pocket gophers, checking the spawning frenzy of rosy-sided suckers—thought to be declining locally—or gathering some other needed information. I enjoy such times. But it is my general custom simply to get out when I can and make quiet observations of whatever I’m fortunate to recognize. And only then to figure out on which side of the Divide I find myself. Black Bear


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Bald eagle feeding chick

and teeth. On winter days, there’s the different sound of ice rubbing upon ice—a tearing and abrading, but not abrasive sound. It’s natural music. It belongs. Belongs to the season, to the river. I like to look at running water, particularly clean running water. Clean standing water—water I can look into, not just at. In much of this continent, the water in rivers, ponds, creeks and lakes is so muddy and contaminated it’s

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no longer transparent. At one time I had to think about, deal with, and look at, dirty water. Meg and I vacationed in Jackson Hole back then. I spent happy hours simply looking into clean water, a pleasure we were denied most of the year. It’s unfortunate that even though my favorite waters are clear, I typically can’t see what I know to be there. I’ve accepted that good fly fishermen and skillful river runners see fish and underwater rocks; I never can. They have a gift—practice hasn’t helped me. I’m content, as there is no choice, to imagine what is concealed. I know trout feed on lines revealed by surface patterns. I know they are in pools and close to lakeshores. I know there are aquatic insects, not to mention plants. I don’t see them. Oh, a duck, perhaps, or a mink— should I have especially good luck—but not some log waiting to grab at anything I might be floating past upon. I’m not much at being in water, either. I might feel differently if wading boots came anywhere near my

Coyote pups w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m





Wildlife & Landscape Photographs by Henry H. Holdsworth 


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Photos courtesy Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center Bruins in the center’s habitat exhibit behavior that few people ever see in the wild (left), while wolves show the classic dominant and submissive behavior of a pack (above). McKinley (below) arrived at the center in 2006 to help create the nucleus of the growing High Country Wolf Pack.

Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center

by Mike Calabrese Nothing can prepare visitors to West Yellowstone’s Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center (GWDC) for the startling, up-close experience of viewing these epic, almost mythic, animals. The haunting, intelligent eyes of the gray wolves and the regal pelage and majesty of the grizzlies is simply breathtaking, even in this carefully controlled and maintained habitat. A visit to the center can be every bit as moving and educational as a journey through the park itself, especially for folks who never venture away from cars or campgrounds. The not-for-profit Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center, also host to a first-class educational exhibit center and theater, is the last stop for some of nature’s most recognizable and yet most threatened creatures. But it should be a first-stop for visitors to the park. All of the center’s eight grizzlies were otherwise doomed, thanks in no small part to their unfortunate adjustment to, or run-ins with, humans. Foolish interactions—like feeding them—or the misguided killing of predatory sows by ranchers put these bears on a path toward certain destruction. The phrase “a fed bear is a dead bear” is not empty rhetoric. The center’s stunning exhibit, “Bears: Imagination and Reality,” compellingly 14


draws visitors into the world of bears, both “real and imaginary.” The 25 taxidermic specimens highlight the richly diverse coloration of grizzlies and the awe-inspiring girth of the polar bear. Even accomplished outdoorsmen will find the exhibit area’s interactive stations intriguing and challenging. Watching these bruins (the playful Sam tips the scales at 1,000 pounds) tussle with each other or rummage for food—hidden throughout the habitat by both the center’s staff and visiting kids—reveals behavior that, frankly, few people ever witness. Seeing Illie actually snatch a live rainbow from the habitat’s stocked pond beats looking at even the most famous and widespread photos of Kodiaks swatting at salmon. Impressive as those images are, they simply can’t convey the deft

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quickness of an 800-pound grizzly. The center’s wolves roam in their own River Valley Wolf habitat, separate from that of the grizzlies. But the two packs are as easily and productively viewed from the outdoors viewing deck through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the new Naturalist Cabin. Kids, as well as adults, seem mesmerized by the wolves, and because passes to the center are good for two consecutive days, visitors often return, as if to confirm the reality and proximity of these mysterious ancestors to today’s canines. The center is not resting on its laurels, either. Plans for a birds-of-prey aviary and a riparian habitat are well under way. The GWDC is AZAA (American Zoo and Aquarium Association) certified, a much prized and hard-earned endorsement. A visit to the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center will easily win over the hearts and minds of visitors of any age. For more information, call the GWDC at 800-257-2570 or go online its site:  Mike Calabrese , a Jackson resident for 37 years, owns the region’s premiere music-booking agency, Noteworthy, is a board member of the Jackson Hole Cowboy Jubilee, and supports his fly-fishing addiction through music performance, writing, and editing.

Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center

Bob Woodall photo


center a breathtaking realism. Photos and hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range and habits of these powerful animals. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging hands-on displays and information. Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for good reason: the nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to the largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America. And, during winter, the staff offers Stunning, full-size bighorns, set amidst their natural flora and fully guided tours to the geology, lend a breathtaking realism to this center. snowy habitat. The center’s website also accesses a bioloFew mammals can match the Rocky gist’s journal describing the sheep’s slow reMountain bighorn sheep for its sure-footedcovery from the population “crash” of 1990. ness. Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to Located right on the main street of Dubois 300 pounds, it treads crags and rocky trails (which just happens to be Wyoming Highway like no other creature on earth. But this mag287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep Internificent animal’s survival is threatened all pretive Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 over the West. Fortunately, its beauty and tenp.m. during the summer. Admission fees are uous existence have been showcased graphi$2.50 for adults and $6 for families. cally and elegantly in the National Bighorn For more information, call toll free (888) Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown 209-2795, go online at, or Dubois, Wyoming. e-mail the center at  Stunning, full-size bighorns—set amidst — Mike Calabrese their natural flora and geology—lend to this

continued from page 12

size. Or if I could swim. Or if I just liked the feel of water. I’m simply entirely happy to look at ginclear water. Water-clear gin is pretty nice to contemplate, too.


Summer solstice occurred not quite two weeks ago. It is everywhere green. The green of wild rose and alfalfa, of pussytoe leaves and gilia, of blue flax and balsamroot. The green of full summer, accented by yellows, reds, blues, and diminishing brown hues. Invigorating greens. Promising greens. Productive greens. I think of it as the pinnacle green, the apex green. If I weren’t trying so hard to be so cutesy, the just-at-the-start-of-autumn green. The green-before-the-chlorophyll-shut-off green. The green that suggests you ought to w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e

do at least some of the things you absolutely had to get done this summer...some left over from previous years. It’s a nourishing green, welcomed by the young and old elk and cow, deer and pika, ground squirrel and snowshoe hare. It’s the gardener’s green. The tourist’s green. The hiker’s green. The artist’s green. The greento-hang-onto green. Because soon enough, it will be brown. 

Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in the Jackson Hole News & Guide. He has penned four publications covering the birds and animals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. His two favorite books, Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chronicles, have received well-deserved, wide acclaim. Bert’s latest book, Birds of Sage and Scree with Greg McHuron, has just been released.


Summer Hours: 9 a.m. — 7 p.m. 907 W. Ramshorn Street Dubois, Wyoming 307-455-3429 email :

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Recreation and transportation on the trails & pathways of Greater Yellowstone ver a hundred miles of single-track and pathways create a top-tier collection of bike tours, among America’s best. During the last nine years, Friends of Pathways, the U. S. Forest Service, Teton Freedom Riders, even the Boy Scouts of America, have worked together to achieve a truly historic accomplishment. Friends of Pathways joins the towns of Jackson, Victor, and Driggs, and Grand Teton National Park to foster the paved pathway systems that make this a premier destination for bicyclists of all types. Maps—good ones—are at Bike and outdoor shops should have them too, and they’ll also stock good local guide books.

The Grand Teton pathway, a new favorite of bikers—and walkers (above) The Putt putt single-track, an old standby for mountain bikers (left)

Wade McKoy photos

Jackson Hole


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Cache Creek nudges Jackson’s eastern edge so closely that cyclists can ride from the bike shop to the trailhead in just a few minutes. The kiosk there displays a map of the Greater Snow King Trail System and its miles of single-track, bisected by a mellow-grade dirt road climbing lazily up-canyon to the Gros Ventre Wilderness boundary (leave your bike at the boundary for a bike-hike combo–no bikes allowed in the wilderness area). Numerous single-tracks weave along both sides of the canyon. Ride the Putt Putt and Sidewalk trails on the north side through sunny fields of wildflowers and aspens. Cruise the south-side Hagen and Creekside trails for timbered and shady rides. Climb Ferrin’s trail and connect with Game Creek for a 20-plus-mile loop back to town on the paved Von Gontard, Paul Merritt, and Russ Garaman pathways. w w w. t e t o n a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

Wilson, Wyoming, the quaint berg a few miles west of Jackson, has its own massive bike arena, the Teton Pass Area. Bike from downtown Wilson or drive up the pass to one of three trailheads. To bike up the pass, take the paved pathway across from the Stagecoach Bar one mile up to Trail Creek Road, then head another mile up that road to the trailhead kiosk and map. From there, it’s a long, steep, beautiful climb (2,000-plus-foot) up the paved Old Pass Road (non-motorized vehicles only) to the top of 8,416-foot Teton Pass. But for the highest, newest and, some say, the most outstanding single-track in the region, ride up the Old Pass Road to the second switchback, take the single-track across Mt. Glory’s slide path, then up past Jimmy’s Mom (super fun and tech-y downhill) to the Phillips Canyon Trailhead and parking lot. Cross the highway and head up the dirt road to the Arrow Trail. This fabulous course reveals many views as it winds upwards and outwards (and downwards for the ride home). Ride options are many, with Sno-Tel, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon in the mix. The trailhead at the top of the

pass accesses loop possibilities with the Black Canyon trail, and Lithium—a wild downhill. Or head west to Mail Cabin Creek or Idaho’s Mike Harris trailhead.

Teton Village Seven miles of super-fun single-track traverses the entire lower mountain, rolling and winding with the ski terrain (designed and built by year-round reA tranquil road-ride in Antelope Flats, Grant Teton National Park sort workers—skiers). A rocky dirt road climbs to the summit, but downhill Rest to learn tricks and jumps. Ask a resort emriding is prohibited above the Gondola (you may ployee for a trail map. Jackson Hole Pathways is a paved, ten-foot ride down only below the Gondola summit). Those who bike to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain wide trail system that connects Wilson to Teton must ride the tram back down with their bikes, free Village and Grand Teton National Park, Jackson to of charge. Transport your bike up Teewinot chair- its schools, trailheads and outlying neighborhoods, lift by purchasing a lift ticket at Nick Wilson’s Café. and Moose to Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Check out the free beginner terrain park on Eagles Park. Future pathways are planned to connect these





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by pumping through berms and rollers without pedaling. It’s free and open to cyclist of all ages and abilities. This fall Victor Velo hosts a series of Cyclocross races at Pioneer Park’s Cross Course. The marquee event, the MooseCross on October 2-3, attracts over 100 racers. Look for more info at . Road bikers love riding the DriggsVictor Pathway on the old railroad bed beside the highway and then climbing the long, low-angle grade up Ski Hill Road up to Grand Targhee Resort.

Pinedale Ten miles into the Wind River Mountains above Pinedale, the White Pine Ski Area has lift-accessed mountain biking, including advanced riding on downhill trails and more moderate trail riding. Rentals available at the resort.

Downhill bikers love Lithium.

existing routes and expand the system north to Colter Bay and south to Hoback Junction. All types of non-motorized use are encouraged for recreation as well as for transportation. For many locals, safe biking routes are welcomed alternatives to motorized transportation, and the pathway system is a godsend. Get thee to a trailhead and go bicycling.

Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks Biking in Grand Teton National Park, always a true joy, reached additional heights last year with the new Grand Teton pathway. Winding along beside the highway, with some extra turns thrown in for fun, the pathway keeps cyclists safe from collisions with motorists. Start at Dornan’s in Moose and bike out and back to Jenny

Lake. April cyclists have the Teton Park Road to themselves—the road is plowed but remains closed to motorized travel for the first few weeks. Yellowstone follows suit, plowing the roads in April and allowing cyclists in, but not cars. Check with the individual parks for exact dates. Safe biking opportunities in Yellowstone are limited, but search out a few road spurs open only to cycling and walking, like Fountain Flat Drive between Madison Junction and Old Faithful. Ask for the secret map of 32 miles of old roads closed to motor vehicles.

What To Bring A mountain bike can take a rider much farther into the backcountry than legs alone. Extra preparation is essential. At a minimum, bikers need to be able to fix a flat tire, so take a tube, a tube patch kit, tire levers, and a pump. Have an idea of where you’re going and how long the ride should take (maps and compass help). Pack lots of water, a little food, light rain gear, a thin warm layer, and a first aid kit to stop bleeding, dress cuts and abrasions, remove slivers, splint a sprain or break, soothe a headache, and prevent a sunburn. Holster the pepper spray to deter the occasional lions and bears, or perhaps a bad dog owner. Consider also packing a few tools to tighten those nuts and screws that eventually loosen, a spoke key to adjust the potential bent rim, a chain tool and master link for the rare broken derailleur or broken chain, and pliers for a sure grip. All this can be packed in a small kit that weighs only a pound or two.

Grand Targhee Keeping pace with the growing bike community, the bike trails around the Grand Targhee resort above Driggs, Idaho, satisfy riders of all abilities and agendas. Mom, dad, the kids—and the experts—all love these trails. Base area rides like Ricks Basin and Quakie Ridge are a blast to cruise, whether your pace is fast or slow. Experts can take their downhill mountain bike up the chairlift and bomb down the jumps and berms on Easy Rider, or ride their cross-country bike out to Mary’s Saddle and the Teton Vista Traverse. Over a dozen double-track and single-track bike trails give riders great views in the company of wildflowers and aspens. Pick up a map at the activity center.

Teton Valley This old ranching community went totally newschool last year when the nonprofit organization Victor Velo built the Bike Park. Adjacent to Pioneer Park on Elm Street in Victor, Idaho, the Bike Park offers beginner, intermediate, and advanced dirt jumps. A feature called a Pump Track, similar to a small-scale BMX track, helps riders maintain speed


Phillips Ridge trail, a good pick for a long, high-altitude ride

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Who Made It Happen These amazing mountain bike trails are the result of a partnership between the Bridger-Teton National Forest, Friends of Pathways (a local nonprofit advocacy group supporting pathways), and a variety of service organizations. One service organization of dedicated local mountain bikers, the Teton Freedom Riders, played a critical role in designing and building all the downhill-specific mountain bike trails in the Teton Pass Area. These descents include log drops, dirt jumps, and rock rides and, for more conservative riders, easy ways around those experts-only features. The Teton Freedom Riders continue logging thousands of hours each summer buffing out the mountain bike trails. Check out their unique story at Another group of volunteers, The Order of the Arrow, Boy Scouts of America, helped trim the Teton Pass Area construction timetable drastically a couple summers ago, building nearly 10 miles of new single-track (the Arrow Trail) in five days by committing 650 trail workers for one week in July 2008. Pathways resulted from 16 years of advocacy by Friends of Pathways and many other bike enthusi-

Wade McKoy photos

Ferrin’s trail tops out in wildflowers and meadows with a Teton view.

Bring plenty of water and remember to drink it.

asts, including the Town of Jackson and the late Wyoming Senator Craig Thomas and his successor, Senator John Barrasso, with the cooperation of the National Park Service.

Etiquette Please remember, bikes must yield to all other trail users. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up. Trail users should not give up their sense of hearing: turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people coming…and the lions, moose, and bears that, rest assured, are out there, too. Ride open trails only. Respect wilderness and national park closures and private property. Give wildlife a wide berth. Happy trails! —Mountain Country Adventure Guide w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

Rentals Local Ride Info Next to Brew Pub

Demos 245 W Hansen St. 307.734.6886


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Alpine white-water and scenic float trips provide top vacation adventures. et the front seat if you can. That’s the first advice, that’s where the action is. Rafting in the Greater Yellowstone region is not only recommended, it’s practically required. The area is so packed with burly white water and calm lakes that to return home without getting on the water is like taking a trip to Hawaii and never going to the beach.

The eight-mile white-water stretch of the Snake River just below Jackson Hole may offer the finest one-day introduction to rapids in the country. Last year, with its recognition as a Wild and Scenic River, it joined many others in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. The Snake and all its tributaries are finally protected. (see As you load up to begin your trip, something changes. You realize just how different a raft feels than that desk chair you’ve become accustomed to and as you peer out over

anxiety will soon be replaced by exuberance after you’ve pounded through some beefy waves and come through upright and alive. There is a golden moment, just as you enter the smooth, slick tongue White-water paddling—a fun and thrilling day on the river of a big rapid, when time lope, black and grizzly bear can all be seen stands still and the world is quiet despite the along regional waterways. In addition, chaos around you. These are the moments on wolves have made their way into Grand Teton a river trip that create National Park, so its only a matter of time bememories you’ll take fore these, too, are spotted along the banks of home with you. the Snake. Most outfitters offer Sometimes all you may want is silence, the choice of going in ei- and a float through the park offers the perfect ther an oar-frame boat, in answer for a quiet, lazy afternoon. which the guide does all The scenic upper section of the Snake is the work, or a paddle raft, much different than its white-water counterin which everyone part in that it is very braided, with many difaboard helps maneuver ferent routes and side channels. The shoreline the boat downstream. varies greatly along these sections of river, as Whatever option you dense forests of spruce and lodgepole pine choose, call early, espe- give way to the deciduous stands of cottoncially during those hot woods and aspen, where beavers like to make summer afternoons when their home. everybody is looking for The Snake’s waters include long stretches of rapids. Scenic floats also allow for more of an ina splash in the face. terpretive trip, with visitors learning the hisa river carrying the collective weight of a tory of the valley, its fur trappers, western Scenic Floats long winter, you understand why this is still heritage, and geography.  considered an adventure. Time on the water is If you don’t think the splash-and-giggle Tom Bie worked in Jackson Hole as a fishtime well spent. scene is for you, you’ll still want to check out ing guide and as the sports editor for the JackLearn to enjoy that twinge in your gut as the possibility of going on a scenic trip. It is son Hole News & Guide before moving on to you round a bend and hear a roar like the here where you are likely to encounter some stints as senior editor at The Drake, Skiing, sound of ocean waves breaking on the beach. of the larger mammals that inhabit the region. and Powder. If you’re nervous—good, that’s the idea. The Moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn ante20

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Wilderness Ventures / Wade McKoy photos

by Tom Bie

Grand Teton National Park

Wilderness Ventures / Wade McKoy

Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft, except on Jackson and Jenny lakes, where powerboats are allowed. But leave the jet skis home! Launches along the Snake River access a variety of waters, all beautiful, some very dangerous. Life preservers and boat permits are required. Info: (307) 739-3309. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small powerboats can be rented at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. Boaters will have to register their craft at the Moose Visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Center, where more information is available in one of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest and coolest visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; centers. Naturally, a host of floating, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, sail boating, and scenic concessionaires operate by permit within the park, all researched by going online at

Bridger-Teton National Forest Class III and IV white water on the Snake River begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self-registration, while not required, is available at West Table. Scenic float waters that also hold fish include the South Fork of the Snake. On the Web: Info: (307) 734-6773. For maps and boatloads of good info try Other rivers in the area offer possibilities from serene scenery to challenging rapids. On the Web: Everything you wanted to know about recreating on regional and national federal land. Or call (307) 739-5500 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Additional lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir, at Alpine Junction (power and sailboats).

Yellowstone National Park In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, sailboats, and wind-

surfers are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes, but only paddle boats on Shoshone Lake. Again, leave the jet skis home! All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required. Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Online: Info: (307) 344-7381.

West of Yellowstone West of the park, the Madison Canoe in remote serenity on Yellowstoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shoshone Lake. River provides white water from Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon and idyllic floating to its confluence with the Missouri River. Info: Madison Ranger District: (406) 682-4253. Before launching any watercraft, clean, inGreen River & Pinedale Area spect, and dry equipment that is wet from previous trips. Scrub wading boots, Aqua Sox, and The Green River between Pinedale and Big wader gear. Put watercraft, trailers, ropes, and anPiney is primarily utilized for fishing. For inforchors through approved hot-water power washes. mation, go to and pull up a Wyoming Game and Fish now requires all map of any BLM field office and district in the boatowners to purchase boat decals ($5-$10) to state. Just point and click. The short story: Frehelp fund boat inspection stations in Grand mont (tons of opportunities and amenities here) Teton National Park and at Palisades Reservior. and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle Invasion of aquatic nuisance and invasive craft and power and sailboats; and Green River species is creating environmental destruction. Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Call Rapidly growing aquarium weeds thoughtlessly (307) 367-5300 for more info. discarded into local waterwaysâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;as well as Cody & the North Fork dozens of exotic shellfish, snail, and fish species In Cody, river runners can catch Class III that have arrived and have been poured mostly rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River into the Great Lakes as foreign shipping balfrom Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or comlastâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;are choking out native species. Recrebine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main ational boaters, hikers, canoeists, kayakers, Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. The hunters, rafters, and campers can unknowingly place to start: up and relocate everything from the tiny ation/fishing or call (307) 527-6241. New Zealand mud snail, zebra and quagga musWater skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are ensels to strands of Eurasian milfoil, hydrilla and joyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir (see sidebar water hyacinth aquatic grasses and hundreds of on page 38), west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-9227 other invasives. or online at Please donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t spread aquatic nuisance species. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Paul Bruun â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Mountain Country Adventure Guide

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Greater Yellowstone’s waters boast some of the world’s finest angling.

Fine-spotted cutthroat trout enliven area waters.

National Park Access Fishing seasons on waters in states surrounding Yellowstone National Park vary slightly. Most waters are fishable by Memorial Day weekend. Yellowstone Park requires purchase of a fishing permit, available from visitor stations. Yellowstone as well as Grand Teton National Park also require the purchase of a boat permit (valid in both parks) not only for sail and powerboats but also for float tubes and pontoon boats. Yellowstone entrances and ranger stations sell fishing permits and boat permits. Grand Teton boat permits are available at the Moose Visitor Center. A Wyoming fishing license is necessary in Grand Teton. Bob Woodall

uperb trout rivers lie within an easy reach of northwest Wyoming, so it’s possible to base in Jackson, Cody, or West Yellowstone, Montana, and fish a variety of locations on day trips. But weather rules here in mountain country. Stream levels vary because drainage runoff times differ. Higher altitude lakes often are not free of ice until late June, while lower-level and larger reservoirs where wind aids thawing begin losing ice in mid April. Targeting lakes during early river runoff periods is a practical plan.

Wade McKoy

By Paul Bruun

The Lewis River in Yellowstone Park provides roadside fishing access at Lewis Falls.


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“Bad” fall weather sometimes accompanies an excellent day of fishing.

Trout-harvest Information Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and South Fork of the Snake in Idaho now include year-round fishing. The Snake’s trout harvest season in Wyoming runs April 1 through October 31 for cutthroat. Catch-andrelease cutthroat fishing is permitted November 1 through March 31. Idaho biologists have implemented an annual catch-and-release regulation on all cutthroat in the South Fork of the Snake as well as a special limit on brown trout. This protects native cutthroat strains from increasing rainbow trout intrusion and potential hybridization. Idaho encourages year-round rainbow harvest to protect from hybridized spawning, especially on the upper South Fork. This concept remains controversial, with many anglers preferring to release the rainbows they capture while others welcome the chance of creeling a few for the skillet.

Wade McKoy photos

Be Prepared

round. After much hard work and inspiration from the late U. S. Senator Craig Thomas, Congress decreed that many miles of the Snake River and its headwaters were included under the Wild and Scenic River status in 2009. The Snake is headquarters to its own subspecies—a fine-spotted cutthroat trout—and is Wyoming’s largest Blue Ribbon River. A popular Jackson attraction, the Snake is fished and floated by most anglers and visitors. Easily reached lakes like Jackson, Jenny, Leigh, Palisades, and Grassy are ice-free in May and fish well from shore until July’s heat arrives. Then deep water trolling and jigging become popular lake techniques until later in September, when fish again are found moving into shallower sections. Lake or mackinaw trout that can weigh 50 pounds, as well as cutthroat, thrive in these deep lakes. Inside the South Entrance of Yellowstone are Lewis and Shoshone, both excellent lake and brown trout fisheries. Both are accessible through October. Once the Snake clears, flows are high and swift throughout the summer until late September. Its steep gradient makes wading challenging, so this river is best fished by floating. Cutthroat are enthusiastic about dry flies but also chase streamers, nymphs, and spinning lures. Grasshopper fly fishing in August and September is a cherished part of the Snake’s season. More suited to wading are the Hoback, Gros Ventre, and Buffalo, as well as Flat Cottonwood and Pacific creeks. The Hoback provides a giant stonefly hatch in early July. Flat Creek in the National Elk Refuge is a challenging fly-fishingonly, spring creek-like stream that opens on August 1.

Cody Named for the famous Wild West personality, this Yellowstone east entrance community offers a variety of lake, reservoir, and stream fishing. Cody anglers follow numerous insect hatches emerging from the North Fork of the Shoshone. This popular river creates the productive Buffalo Bill Reservoir and offers rainbows, cutthroats, and browns. Lake trout are

Visitors focused on fishing must remember the presence of storms, insects, and bears. Higher-elevation weather conditions change rapidly. A savage temperature drop accompanies fast-moving mountain storms that deliver chilling winds and combinations of rain, hail, or snow. Pack an extra fleece jacket or insulated vest to aid rainwear. Graphite rods attract lightning, so cease casting when surrounded by thunderstorms. Biting insects inhabit irrigated ranch lands and high meadows where snowmelt collects in the early season. Full-coverage clothing and bug repellent are helpful. Keep a currently dated can of pepper spray handy during fishing/hiking/camping visits to bear country: remember that bears like to fish too.

Regional Fishing Destinations Jackson Hole Great angling destinations abound both in and around Jackson Hole. Portions of rivers like the Hoback, Salt, and Greys are open year-

Sometimes fishing isn’t about catching.

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Dubois Fremont County’s “banana belt” is nestled along the Wind River, where the community of Dubois offers small and large stream and lake fishing that begins right in town. The Wind is a year-round fishery known for some braggin’ length browns. Small-stream fans will love the scrappy cutthroat in the Wiggins Fork, not too

Wade McKoy photos

also abundant in Buffalo Bill and, unfortunately, non-native walleye have recently entered the system through illegal stocking. Note that Wyoming G&F regs impose spawning closures from April 1 to July 1 on portions of river and reservoir. Wyoming’s first federally proclaimed Wild & Scenic River, the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone, is a ruggedly beautiful trout stream. Information on exceptional fishing reached by reasonable wilderness lake hikes from the demanding Beartooth Highway (U.S. 212) is available from Cody fly shops. A variety of grayling, rainbow, cutthroat, and brook trout are available to fly and spin fishermen after late June. Remember, access on these lakes is improved by use of float tubes and portable kick boats. A short ride from Cody are East and West Newton lakes as well as Hogan and Luce reservoirs. The Lower Shoshone River as it flows right through Cody produces excellent winter, spring, and late-summer fly fishing.

Wary trout spook easily, so fishermen sometimes employ stealth along the bank.

far up the Horse Creek Road from Dubois and then a short ride on County Road 506. Bog Lake, also accessed from the Horse Creek Road, sports both rainbows and arctic grayling. Along historic Union Pass Road anglers can pursue fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat in Lake of the Woods and also experience Little Warm Springs. For trophy Yellowstone cutthroat, visit Pelham Lake—usually ice free by mid June— west of Dubois off Warm Springs Road. Contact local shops for exact directions to these interesting area fisheries.

West Yellowstone

Crystal clear waters reveal fish to alert anglers.


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This quaint town sitting astride the west entrance to Yellowstone is the jumpingoff point to legendary Western rivers that include the Madison, Henry’s Fork, Yellowstone, Firehole, Gallatin, Lamar, Gibbon, and more. The universally acclaimed salmon fly hatch on the Lower Madison begins in late June and peaks around July 4. The Firehole, America’s most unusual trout river, is fed by Yellowstone’s great geysers, fumaroles, and thermal springs. A similar resident rainbow and brown population also flourishes in the Madison in the park, where excellent mayfly and caddis hatches entertain until hopper fishing takes over in August. By mid-September, spawning fish from miles downstream in Hebgen Lake begin migrating into the park and provide excitement until

park fishing closes in early November. Earlier, Hebgen Lake and its various arms offer superb dry fly fishing. During the morning calm, trout locally termed “gulpers” cruise between surface blankets of tiny “Trico” mayflies, sipping constantly. Later the Tricos are joined by larger Callibaetis mayflies (speckled spinners) as the trout party hits high gear. The Yellowstone River (with a few tributary exceptions) traditionally opens on July 15 to a flourish of caddis insects. This is a superb fishery for large Yellowstone-strain cutthroat that are willing risers for a variety of fly imitations. In the park the Yellowstone provides an exceptional range of catch-and-release fishing opportunities. Yellowstone Lake offers the opportunity to pursue its native cutthroat not only from boats and float tubes but from the banks as well. Spin and fly fishermen enjoy success from many beaches and shores along park roads and parking areas.

Pinedale An Old West ranching community 75 miles south of Jackson Hole, Pinedale is situated adjacent the magnificent Wind River Range and squarely along the historic Oregon Trail. This portion of Sublette County offers hiking and horse-packing entrances to the Wind Rivers and its endless trout-filled lakes. The Green and New Fork rivers begin here and flow south, where they ultimately unite near “The Nation’s Ice Box,” Big Piney. It is hard to believe the exceptional brown and rainbow fishing in the Green and smaller New Fork. Flowing from the Green River Lakes, the many miles of the upper Green meander through private and public property, where camping and public access areas are found on BLM lands. Upstream from the Warren Bridge on U. S. 189/1919, under which the Green flows, are a dozen BLM access areas that offer wading access. Downstream, mostly

Harriman State Park begin warming in June, the Henry’s Fork’s prolific insect hatches attract trout lovers from all over the world who enjoy challenging its selective rainbows. The South Fork begins in the wilderness above Yellowstone and courses through Grand Teton National Park, Jackson Hole, and finally into Idaho at Palisades Reservoir. It’s the country’s largest native cutthroat fishery. Big browns swim there too. Despite being such a sizable river, anglers fre-

quently employ delicate fishing skills to fool the abundant but picky South Fork trout. Both Snake branches have local fly shops and can be accessed by several Jackson outfitters.  Paul Bruun writes the weekly “Outdoors” column in the Jackson Hole News & Guide and contributes to outdoor magazines. He operates South Fork Fly Fishing Float Trips and founded the South Fork Skiff drift boat company. He served 12 years on the Jackson Town Council during his 37 years in Jackson.

private land surrounds the Green, but a handful of public and private access points dot the river. Float fishing is popular beginning in early July when streams and lakes clear. Check local shops for current access information. Vehicle accessible Soda and Willow lakes provide float tube and small-boat angling opportunities.

hiking fishing

Southeastern Idaho Giant stoneflies and more colorful western aquatic insect hatches historically highlight experiences on the Henry’s (North Fork) and the South Fork of the Snake River in Southeastern Idaho. The Henry’s Fork salmon fly hatch begins around Memorial Day holiday in the toasty flows of the Warm River area near Ashton. As the waters surrounding Last Chance and the

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Take to the canyons, peaks, meadows, and forests for walks of any distance.

Grand Teton National Park To mention only one hike for this national park might be viewed as a bit presumptuous—there are in fact hundreds of gems. Visit the spectacular Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Moose to get a sense of this special place. Here’s a newly opened hiking area (it was private property until recently) that is truly unique. Drive to Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve on the Moose-Wilson Road. Get there before 10:30 a.m., as parking is limited. Walk through the Rockefeller Preserve Center to appreciate the depth of this family’s wisdom and generosity. In the words of the National Park Service, “Rockefeller made a life-long commitment to making areas of natural scenic beauty accessible to the public. He strongly believed that nature has the power to restore and sustain the human spirit. It was his hope that, by experiencing this spiritual and emotional renewal, visitors to the preserve would become aware of the importance of nature in their own lives and acknowledge their roles in acting as good stewards of the land.” Reflect on that as you head up the trail 26

Wilderness Ventures / Wade McKoy

iking remains the only way to access some of the best places in and around this wild country. With hundreds of great trails, choosing one can be the biggest challenge. Pick up a good guidebook—for each one of these suggested hikes, there are dozens more waiting to be discovered.

Streams rush through Garnet Canyon, the Grand’s lower pinnacles reach into the clear blue sky.

along the rushing creek to Phelps Lake. Catch a breather on one of the benches set there for contemplation and take in the view of the Tetons reflecting in the crystal-clear waters. Start walking around the lake clockwise and you’ll soon experience some very unusual hiking—an elevated grate over sensitive and otherwise impassable marshlands. Yellowstone National Park The intrepid hiker will find any number of otherworldly treks here. But incredible experiences await even the less-ambitious outdoors person at the many roadside attractions. And, though short, they count as hikes, too.

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Stop often at these marked points of interest and take a stroll, often on boardwalks and sometimes on stairways, through the geyser basins, to the waterfalls, and by the lakeshore. Push yourself just a little farther, dally just a little longer, and you may just reap the rewards—an erupting geyser, a rainbow refracting in waterfall mist, or pelicans landing on the lake. There is no place else in the world like Yellowstone.

Jackson Take a short stroll on the KY trail and wander the flowered south-facing slopes above town, or make it an excursion with

Wilderness Ventures / Wade McKoy

360-degree views by connecting with Josie’s Ridge trail to the summit of Snow King Mountain. Gaze upon the five mountain ranges surrounding Jackson Hole and the little town of Jackson nestled in this idyllic setting. Come back down the same way or loop around down the Snow King service road and Sink or Swim trail back to your car. Park at the trailhead on Wildlife Drive, just off Snow King Avenue between Virginian Lane and Flat Creek Drive. Pay attention to the trail markers on the way out—the myriad of trails can get confusing on the way back. Maps at

The Beartooth Range is peppered with alpine lakes.

Wade McKoy

Teton Village Ride the tram up to 10,400-feet and with very little effort the high alpine tundra is at your feet. For a good hike from the tram’s top station, walk across Rendezvous Mountain on the Top of the World trail to the Cody Bowl Spur, then on to the Green River Overlook. Go back the same way or loop around to the Summit trail via Rock Springs Loop. For a bigger adventure, take the Granite Canyon trail back to the valley. Better yet, hike up Granite Canyon and ride the tram back down. It’s better for the knees, and it’s a free ride! Remember to bring a coat. It can be cold up there! Maps at Wilson Bring history into the hike on the Historic Wagon Route up Teton Pass. Look for artifacts along the way—buck-and-rail fences, a corduroy bridge, the Reed Hotel Rock, and more. Drive up the pass a couple miles and

turn left onto Trail Creek Road. Drive a mile to the end of the road and park at the trailhead. A kiosk shows the route, but better yet, get the map at the State of Wyoming Information Center in north Jackson or print it online at It contains wonderful historic information. Grand Targhee Beginning your day at 7,860 feet has advantages—like a hike up the Teton Vista Traverse to the summit of Fred’s at 10,000 feet and a view of the Tetons that will knock your socks off. Begin this hike on the service road to the right of the base of Dreamcatcher chair lift. Stay left at the first intersection. At the second intersection, veer right for approxi-

mately two miles. Ride the lift down, or ride the lift up and hike down, or ride the lift both up and down and leave all your energy for wandering and picnicking at 10,000 feet. Remember, though, the last chair down is at 4 p.m. Maps at Pinedale Pinedale’s backyard is the Wind River Mountains and contains 15 of Wyoming’s 16 highest peaks, including Gannett Peak— Wyoming’s highest at 13,804 feet. Hundreds of miles of trails, streams, forest, and some 1,300 lakes await your selection. Stop in town and get some suggestions from a local. Don’t fret over which hike to pick. You can’t go wrong. —Mountain Country Adventure Guide

The Jackson Hole Aerial Tram in Teton Village gives hikers a 4,139-foot lift into the alpine zone.

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Why do they climb? Musing from mountaineers

By Steve Gardiner

o one ever asked me why I played football or baseball. Those are normal enough pursuits for Americans, and they need no explanation. But when I fell in love with climbing, I was asked the question continually.

At first I’d stammer, attempting answers. I even tossed off George Mallory’s celebrated “Because it’s there” line, but never really believed it. It just broke the seriousness of the question and covered for my lack of a quick, definitive answer. In fact, when I first heard the question, I never really knew where to start. Climbing is a simple game, but one played out on a complex field with no spectators. Maybe that sums up what concerns the people who ask the question. It is a simple game, because the only rule is to get up the route. No governing committee publishes a rule book with yearly updates. No officials observe the event and reward or penalize participants. No 28

The Golden Stair, Grand Teton—Middle Teton Glacier in background

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photos: Wilderness Ventures / Wade McKoy

Climb the Grand...

Wilderness Ventures / Wade McKoy

and more with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides

Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction throughout the Tetons Custom mountaineering trips & alpine treks in the Wind Rivers & Beartooths Kids and families welcome

medals or trophies are given, and no one sees the greatest athletic feat of the climbers, except the climber and one or two friends. Yet, it is perhaps these same traits that make climbing appeal to the people who devote time, energy, and money to the sport. After I tried answering the “why” question a few times, I decided I should write an essay explaining my motives. Then, when confronted with the question, I could hand out a copy of my essay, or at least summarize the ideas I had developed. I tried writing it. The result was an avalanche of words that ended up as rubble in the valley of the garbage can. I couldn’t get it right and, in the end, no one ever saw the essay. I decided that the answer was bigger than an essay, maybe bigger than me, so I started asking the question myself. I posed the question to some of the best climbers in America and Europe, and each time I asked, “Why do you climb?” I got different and interesting answers. For example, Scott Heywood of Sheridan, Wyoming, said, “You make conscious decisions to take a chance, and when you Wall Street at dawn on the Grand Teton

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Photo by Bob Goodwin.


take that chance you take control of your life, and when you take control of your life it has lots of benefits for you. It’s confronting your fears head on. It’s confronting a lot of human fear, fear of death, fear of falling; confronting things like laziness, inertia, and being totally responsible for yourself, which is uncommon in our world today, and I think that’s why I like it. It’s immediate gratification. It gives you a sense of self-worth. It may be an illusion, but it’s an important illusion.” While many of the people I talked with discussed the excellent physical training that

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES & Climbing School Since 1968 165 North Glenwood Street Jackson, Wyoming 83001

800.239.7642 307.733.4979 Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is an authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park and is permitted by the US Forest Service to operate on the Bridger-Teton, Shoshone and Custer National Forests.

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Descending the Owen Spalding route, Grand Teton

photos: Wilderness Ventures / Wade McKoy

climbing affords, Chris Bonnington, who climbed Everest and is one of England’s finest climbers, talked about how climbing affects one mentally. He said, “One of the features of climbing is the intensity of concentration it exacts. In its basic form, if you are poised on a rock wall a hundred feet above the ground, all other thoughts and problems are engulfed by the need for absolute concentration. There is no room for anything other than the problem of staying in contact with the rock and negotiating the next few moves. In this respect, climbing offers an escape, or perhaps it would be better to describe it as a relaxation, from everyday worries of human relationships, money, or jobs. This relaxation lasts for longer than just Climbing can be fun, too. those moments when you are actually climbing and life is in jeopardy.” Some believe that climbing can take people beyond the physical and mental to the philosophical. Jackson Hole’s own Glenn Exum, who died in 2000, once said, “I have loved climbing, and the reason is that if you are up there and having a beautiful day and a few cumulus clouds are sprinkled around and everyone is moving and handling the rope right and the air is clear and you can see forever, well, I think that is really almost an unmatchable experience. It is almost sacred.” For some climbers, like Jim Bridwell of California, climbing is art. “It is like gymnastics, dancing, painting—you have the rock

as a canvas and you express your idea in the route. That’s been my attitude towards climbing. It’s a chance to do something new and creative and beautiful. If it is clean, beautiful rock and a line that stands out as pure—good, consistent, hard climbing all the way, good quality moves, consistent in its nature and texture—then it has something to say.” In the end, I guess I have found that the quick, definitive answer I was trying to find so long ago just doesn’t exist. Climbing affects people deeply, passionately. I think climbers know why they climb while they are doing it, but the real challenge is trying to transform human motivation into words. Why climb mountains? Perhaps there isn’t a good answer, or perhaps there are many good answers. 

Steve Gardiner teaches high school English and journalism in Billings, Montana, and was named Montana Teacher of the Year in 2008. Why I Climb is one of his four books, and he has written over 550 articles for various newspapers and magazines. Nearing the summit, Grand Teton

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Below: wrangling the riding stock; spurs

Mosey on down the trail and into the Old West by Joy Ufford

You haven’t seen the real West until you’ve viewed it

from the top of a horse, with an alpine breeze ruffling

your hair as your mount

clip-clops along the trail.

Whether you’re a tenderfoot or experienced horseman, there are plenty of options to choose from, with mountain country outfitters offering trail rides that last anywhere from an hour to as many days as you can go without a shower. 32

There are several noteworthy factors in choosing the trail ride that fits you. First of all, decide what country you’d like to see. Outfitters operate from all the major towns like Jackson, Cody, Dubois, and Pinedale for a quick trip. Ranches in outlying areas and stables in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks also supply riders with stock and guides. In less than an hour or two, the mountain ranges, alpine lakes, and geyser basins in the Greater Yellowstone Region can be brought right in front of your camera. But if it’s the flavor of the wilderness

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you’re after, consider a half-day or full-day trail ride. Many outfitters provide lunch trips, and some even cook up a steak over a campfire or whip up a Dutch oven dinner over red-hot coals. Also consider how long you can ride without getting too saddlesore, although it’s true that the aches and pains from a longer ride will ease up and vanish in a day or so, and you’ll have plenty of great memories and photographs to take home for your efforts. It never hurts to check and see if your lodging has a hot tub or masseuse on hand, too!

Bob Woodall photos / Triangle C Ranch

Top: a remote alpine lake in the Absaroka Mountains, fishing for golden trout

Bob Woodall

A different twist is ofsquare dancing, soaking in a fered by Wagons West. They sun-warmed pool or reading take modern-day pioneers bestsellers in the shade of an into the Bridger-Teton Naold cottonwood tree. Keep tional Forest backcountry for in mind that reservations two-, four- or six-day covmight be required, and ered wagon excursions. many guest ranches request Guests can either ride on the a three-night minimum stay. wagons or saddle up on a If you like the idea of the trusty steed, or both. After a Old West but groan at the day of riding along remote thought of actually riding a mountain trails and taking in horse, there’s still hope for scenic vistas, guests are you. Any outfitter worth his treated to a rib-stickin’ or her salt will give you as chuckwagon dinner. The much help as they can— evening continues around they live this life because the campfire, where cowthey love being outside boys serenade guests with themselves. authentic Western music. Finally, locals love to When you are all tuckered A young buckaroo share their experiences and out, settle down under the knowledge, so don’t be starry night sky in a cozy tent or the bed of the afraid to ask for their opinions and advice. covered wagon. Awake to the aroma of au- Other sources of information include lodging thentic cowboy coffee brewing over the camp- activities desks, local chambers of commerce, fire and dive into a hearty chuckwagon and national forest offices.  breakfast. Then hit the trail again and soak in Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she the Old West. is a ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s For the adventurous, a pack trip just might Sublette Examiner. fulfill those dreams For the adventurof riding dusty trails probably first travous, a pack trip eled by Native just might fulfill American hunters those dreams of stalking wild game. A pack trip (soriding dusty trails called because probably first horses or mules are packed with all nectraveled by Native essary gear) can last American hunters a night or even a week—the only limit is your stamina for a rustic backcountry lifestyle. The cost generally includes meals, tents, and some good old-fashioned entertainment under the stars. Spending a night in a grassy meadow, listening to horse bells clang and coyotes howl, is a surefire way to create a one-of-a-kind visit to Wyoming. For those who want to combine luxury with wilderness hospitality, there are first-class guest ranches throughout the region, where getting in a daily horseback ride is the norm. Some are extra-good at catering to the family, and offer special kids’ programs that let parents have a little time off for themselves. For guests wanting a respite from the saddle, these ranches usually offer fly fishing,

Guided Horseback Trail Rides 2 hour — Half Day — All Day All Day Rides include a Sack Lunch


307-543-2418 { Local calls from Jackson }

1-800-447-4711 Permittee of Bridger Teton National Forest and Teton Wilderness Area • Outfitter License #085


Saloon & Liquor Store • Restaurant Convention/Meeting Facilities



# A Taste of the Old West #

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The brave confidence of steer wrestling


The Original Cowboy Sport ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

t’s the most magical moment of the night, when a microphone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them deeply every time—“the land of the free and the home of the brave…” Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of Mexico and old California) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she gallops around the arena on her horse,both showing off for appreciative crowds. That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way—showing off. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buck and born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise-fringed leather there.It’s about showing off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride longer, rope quicker. For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better scores,keeping a tighter handle on their ride.For the bulls and broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launch cowboys into outer space. When the sparkling gals tear around on their stretched-out horses, burning turns around three barrels set in sand,it’s about speed and style.For the more taciturn ropers,it’s the quick elegance of a rope sailing through the air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be alive. There’s nothing like it. Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years, except to get even better—better horses,meaner bulls,faster times, and more money. But one thing that never changes about rodeo is the contestants’ heartfelt desires to be good,even great, at something they love.


By Joy Ufford The same can be said of their horses,whether buckin’ broncs or muscled mounts: that good feeling of doing a job well holds as true for the animals as it does for the men and women who ride them and for the rodeo clowns who risk life and limb to entertain the crowd. Cody Nite Rodeo Cody has been called the“Rodeo Capital of the World,” and that isn’t stretching things,with talented cowboys and

A bucking bronc throws his rider.

girls coming from Peru, Australia, Canada—even Japan—to test their skills in Stampede Park,vying for big cash and big buckles.And to have an exciting show every night, the rough stock has to buck. Stock contractor Maury Tate said that’s what his horses and bulls want to do.He brings 120-130 horses and 120-150 bulls, which he was raising before getting the

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Cody Nite Rodeo contract several years ago. “They’re all born to buck,” he said. “It’s what they’re bred to do. It’s what their great-granddaddies and greatgrandmas were bred to do. A lot of people think they’re wild, but they’re not. They just don’t get handled much as colts. They’re bred to buck—and they love to buck.” He raises some bucking colts himself and also buys from certain breeders. “It’s a whole industry within itself,” he said. “Some people just raise bucking colts.” Tate knows what he’s looking for.“To me the perfect scenario is when the horse looks really good,bucks really hard, and makes a really good ride. The cowboy is not competing against the horse; the cowboy is competing with the horse. You want him to jump out there and kick—the higher and harder the better.” Bucking bulls are an industry of their own as well,with registration programs,futurities,and classics.A cow with good bucking blood can bring $25,000, even $50,000. “If your cow’s bred the right way, her calves can bring $2,000 a round at six months old,” Tate explained. Tate and family, from Oklahoma, own “Mo” Betta Clothing Co.,which came about after he asked his mother to design some wild Western shirts when he started rodeoing. He sold them off his back, literally, at rodeos where he first rode bulls and then roped calves. Garth Brooks is a devoted customer and wears“Mo”Betta shirts at his concerts. The Tate clan works the Cody Nite Rodeo (almost 80 years old) from June 1-Aug. 31 at 8 p.m., with the Professional Rodeo Cowboy Association-sanctioned Cody Stampede Rodeo (since 1937) July 1-4. Then, on July 5 at 2 p.m., bull riders will take to the arena in a PRCA ProRodeo Xtreme Bulls event.

Bob Woodall photos

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

★ ★ Rodeo

A cowboy waiting for a ride

Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, Jackson Hole Rodeo dives into its debut with miniacalf and team roping, steer wrestling, breakaway roping, ture bull riding and mutton bustin’ every Saturday and barrel racing and bull riding,as well as a calf scramble for “ranch rodeos” every Wednesday for guest ranchers and the kids. The youngsters are friends. The youngsters’ also treated to trick-roping “calf scramble” is still on demonstrations, meeting bullthe marquee with bull ridfighters, getting their face ing, saddle and bareback painted by rodeo clowns and broncs, team and calf ropmore. All seating is covered, ing, barrels and breakaway with great views of the arena. roping. Four-D barrel racCody Nite Rodeo tickets are $18 ing, a format very popular for adults, $8 for kids 7-12. with cowgirls, makes its Cody Stampede tickets range trial run. from $16-$24. All can be reJackson Hole Rodeo served by calling 1-800-207kicks off with a flag-waving 0744, going online at grand entry at 8 p.m., Wednesdays, May 26 or at the Stampede Park on the through Sept. 1, and Saturwest side of Cody. days, May 29 through Sept. Jackson Hole Rodeo 4. Purchase tickets at the “Growing the future one arena office, online, at Flat buck at a time.” Creek Saddle, or the Boot That’s the motto of the allBarn; $18 for reserved seatnew Jackson Hole Rodeo, with ing, $8 and $13 for general Phil Wilson’s experienced The bull rider and the bull compete for dominance. admission, plus tax. hands holding the reins and  guided by his dream of creating an unforgettable experiJoy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch ence in the traditions of western rodeo. hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner. Wilson is used to building from scratch—he owns a construction company—and as Wyoming Cowboy Church founder, he is used to calling on his faith. And as six generations of Wilsons can attest, Phil Wilson is born and bred from the hardy stock that brought homesteader Sylvester Wilson over Teton Pass to settle his family in Jackson Hole more than a century ago. Family is the key.“All of my family is in on this.Everybody’s got a different chore,” Wilson said as he and son Buskin, a well-known bull rider since high school, tidied up around the rodeo arena on Snow King Drive in Jackson. “We’ve all been rodeoing,and to be rodeo contractors has been one of our dreams in life.” That includes sons Bodee (bucking horses), Brandon (web site), Buskin (bulls) and their wives Lisa, Amy, and Brandi (bookkeepers, ticket sellers, concession help). It also brings in nephews Jason Wheeldon (timed roping) and Trina (4D barrels), Shawn and Selena Wheeldon, sister and brother-in-law Kim and Chancy Wheeldon, Wednesday & Saturday friends Jim and Dood Loose and their son Matthew, and ALL SUMMER plenty others with their own niches. “We want to make it a family and a community rodeo, Grand Entry at 8 p.m. Reserved Seating so residents feel like it’s ‘their’ rodeo” said Wilson, re$19.50 vealing that his dream is to make it part of the Jackson General Admission Hole lifestyle. Adult $14, Children $8.50 The new Jackson Hole Rodeo aims for the stars, literFamily ticket (at the gate only) $42.50 ally, with renowned professional guest announcers and (2 parents & their top-of-the-line entertainment. Having the pros on hand children under 18) makes each event sparkle through the dust, Wilson believes, making each rodeo “just a little more exciting.” He knows plenty about creating an excellent show. Wilson’s been with the Wyoming High School Rodeo Association for 20 years, 12 as director and five as president and chairman. The new website,, introTickets available duces rodeo competitors and tracks the latest statistics. at the Gate or Online End-of-season winners receive saddles.“Holiday”rodeos are on the calendar for Old West Days, the Fourth of July, Phone: (307)733-7297 Teton County Fair, and Labor Day Weekend.

RODEO EVERY NIGHT • 8PM June | July | August

Jackson Hole Rodeo

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STAMPEDE RODEOS July 1–3 at 8PM & July 4 at 5PM

For Tickets: P.O. Box 1327 • 1031 12th Street Cody, Wyoming 82414 1-800-207-0744 • 307-587-5155

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The Plains Indian Powwow, a colorful, festive, rhythmic celebration



By Barbara Foote Colvert

ig in history, big in perspective, big

in style, big in things to do indoors and outdoors, thatʼs Cody, Wyoming.

Bob Woodall photos

The town takes its name from found-

ing father William Frederick “Buffalo

Bill” Cody—scout, marksman, hunter,

Pony Express Rider, world-renowned

Old Trail Town on Cody’s outskirts: historic buildings, artifacts, and even a few famous gravesites

northwestern corner of Wyoming boundless opportunity and invested all that he was and all that he earned to make the region flower. And flower, it has, into a premier travel hub and vacation spot for families,history buffs,and connoisseurs of the great outdoors! Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 as the world’s first national park, is a mere 52-miles east of Cody. The road from Cody to Yellowstone is known today as the Buffalo Bill Scenic Highway, and Teddy Roosevelt justifiably called it“the most scenic 50 miles in America.” That it is, with guest ranches offering scenic trail rides through landscape also perfect for hiking or photographing. Countless unique rock formations along the byway wear historic names such as “Holy City” and “Old Woman and Her Cabin.” Cody lies in the heart of the Bighorn Basin, and a glance in any direction reveals plenty of other scenic drives originating right from town. The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway and the incomparable Beartooth Pass,for ex-

ample, or nearby towns such as historic Meeteese and Red among them the final resting place for Jeremiah “Liver Lodge,Powell and its Homesteader Museum,and Ralston, Eating” Johnson. Johnson, of course, was brought to the which celebrates an annual Rendezvous and Mule Days, big screen by Robert Redford. are all accessed from Cody.And On the outskirts of town,visat the park’s east gate sits Paitors and rodeoers alike gather for haska Teepee,where Buffalo Bill the famous Cody Nite Rodeo, William Frederick entertained friends and digniwhere local and regional cowtaries from around the world. pokes perform every night Cody received the Old Trail Town,resting right throughout June, July, and Auon Cody’s original town site, gust. The Cody Stampede, held Congressional Medal of hearkens back to a classic Westfour nights during Fourth of July Honor for bringing the ern era. Twenty-six weathercelebrations, features pro-rodeo scarred buildings and over a riders in world-class competition. West to the world. hundred horse-drawn conNo wonder Cody is known as the veyances transported from Rodeo Capital of the World! around the Big Horn Basin conAnd speaking of our Alltain thousands of artifacts from Indian trappers, frontier American holiday, a Cody 4th will dazzle young and old settlers, and cowboys who lived in the region from 1879- like none other, with three parades and a fabulous fire1901. Old Trail Town also harbors historic gravesites, works show at the close of four days of pure Western fun.

showman, and visionary. Cody saw in this


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At the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center (See story and photos on next page), just six miles from Cody, Buffalo Billâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s remarkable foresight is further revealed through his vision to bring water to the town and the region.The center also recounts the damâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s construction and houses displays about the Big Horn Basin and surrounding areas. Nearby Buffalo Bill State Park is a destination all its own. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cody itself that really calls out to travelers. In the curve of Sheridan Avenue lies the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, home to five separate museums encompassing more than 300,000 square feet. The original Buffalo Bill Museum was erected on the current site of the Cody Chamber of Commerce in 1917,just ten years after Codyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death at the age of 71. Moved to its current site with construction of the Whitney Gallery of Western Art in 1959, the BBHC also houses the Plains Indian Museum, the Cody Firearms Museum,and the Draper Museum of Natural History. Take a break in the BBHC coffee shop or bistro, or peruse books, Native American jewelry, fine art prints, and other items of local interest in the gift shop. Museum visitors can relax knowing that a pass is good for a second day if they havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seen enough of what James Michener rightly called â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Smithsonian of the West.â&#x20AC;? The wide streets of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Downtown Cody,â&#x20AC;? lined with galleries and shops carrying Western art, photography, furniture, jewelry, clothing, keepsakes, and more, welcome

The BBHC houses an extensive collection of items, like this massive grizzly bear.

sports center in case the great outdoors (or the trekkers themselves) need a break. For lodging in the many excellent bed and breakfasts, hotels and motels, and for details of a huge array of seasonal events throughout the year, contact: or The Cody Country Chamber of Commerce, Wyomingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest, was founded at the turn of the 20th Century by George T. Beckâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;originally as a hunting clubâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and a group of enterprising Cody business leaders, including Buffalo Bill himself. William Frederick Cody received the Congressional Medal of Honor for bringing the West to the world. Visit Cody and see why!  Barbara Foote Colvert, a graphic designer, journalist, writer, and editor, has been an award-winning newspaper lifestyle editor and columnist. Her books include Harvest of Hopeâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Family Farming and Farming Families and Resolutions.

The spirit of Buffalo Bill seems to overtake you here in Cody, Wyoming. His sense of adventure will inspire An Old West shootout, performed nightly outside the historic Irma Hotel in downtown Cody

you to ride horses and

the tired,the hungry,and the curious.â&#x20AC;&#x153;Whereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the beef?â&#x20AC;? Codyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s range of fine restaurants will supply the answer, and whet the appetite of even the most discerning palates. The historic Irma Hotel, built by Cody himself in 1902 and named for his youngest daughter on the occasion of her engagement, sits in the center of town. The famous cherry-wood bar is one of the most photographed sites in Cody,a gift from Queen Victoria to the famous showman.Outside the Irma, the Cody Gunfighters entertain visitors nightly throughout the summer season, reenacting famous gun battles and shootouts by Western characters you will recognize. To enjoy a historic overview of the town, hop aboard the Cody Trolley for a charming tour through Codyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s past and present. Relax listening to music in Cody City Park during the free summer concert series; book a trip on the Shoshone River for white-water thrills, or take off mountain biking, rock or ice climbing. Cody also boasts a state-of-the-art aquatic and

and holler at the rodeo.

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ride rapids. To hike, fish Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll discover rustic shops, great food and an American legend. Plan your amazing trip at 8






yth, history, and epic landscape draw In 1946 the dam was renamed in honor of visitors to Wyoming and the West. Countless Buffalo Bill, who even then knew the value of pieces of dramatic geography, often adorned the West and perhaps its most coveted elewith wildlife equally stunning, transfix all but ment: water.An American visionary, Cody rethe most jaded souls out here. It’s the stuff of alized that canals could never really supply dreams and longings, for young and old, and enough water to efficiently nurture settlement all of it is crafted by nature’s deft,patient hand. and growth in the region. He gave up on his Okay, maybe not all of it. own plan for an extensive canal system and In the heart of Colonel William F. Cody’s redirected his efforts and support to the conold haunt,in fact right on struction of the dam. some of Cody’s own land, While still reliably one piece of Wyoming refulfilling its original purIn 1946 the dam flects nature and man at pose, the dam today was renamed in work together, albeit redraws thousands of adluctantly. The Buffalo Bill mirers and recreationhonor of Buffalo Bill, ists as well. Buffalo Bill Dam, fashioned from almost 83,000 cubic yards who even then knew State Park and the reserof concrete over five voir’s waters play host to the value of the West anglers, years, sits on the bed of boaters, the Shosone River, in a campers,photographers, and perhaps its most windsurfers, hikers, cycanyon carved by nature over millions of years. clists, and those simply coveted element: The spectacular unseeking a breathtaking water. dertaking in the place to view the results Shoshone Canyon of nature’s and man’s claimed the lives of seven combined efforts. men during its construction, no small cost The visitor center is staffed and open when compared to the pittance (by today’s from May to September, affording visitors standards) of the project’s final bill: $929,658. jaw-dropping views of both the dam and the At 353 feet high and 200 feet across, the im- river. A nonprofit enterprise, the center also pressive structure was the tallest of its kind offers travelers the chance to grab a cup of back in its early days, when it was known as coffee while viewing exhibits, enjoying a the Shoshone Dam. movie in its theater, or even purchasing tickPower and water flowed from the dam, ets to Cody’s Nite Rodeo. The Buffalo Bill Dam providing lifeblood to farmers, ranchers, and is designated a National Civil Engineering residents in the region upon its completion in Landmark and is listed on the National Reg1910. More than 93,000 acres of land in the ister of Historic Places. surrounding Bighorn Basin depend on the liqFor more information, visit the website at: uid gold stored behind the dam for irrigation. 

Photo courtesy Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center

by Mike Calabrese

Dam construction, December 1908, two years before completion

Wade McKoy


Celebrates 100 years

Windsurfing on Buffalo Bill Reservoir

NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY • The finest live music acts in the region • Jazz, Swing, Rock, Country, Solos, Duos,Trios & Big Band • Impeccable references Michael Calabrese • 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 E-mail:


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Bob Woodall


by Mike Calabrese

little over a half-hour from Jackson, the alpine community of, well, Alpine, has been quietly luring residents and travelers for years now. Something of a gateway village, Alpine, Wyoming, boasts every square inch the jaw-dropping scenery of Jackson Hole and pretty much all of the same exhilarating recreational opportunities.

Alpine, at the confluence of the Greys and Snake rivers, on the banks of the Palisades Reservoir

What it doesn’t have, though, is the crush of visitors who make their way into Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. In other words,Alpine might be the ideal spot to lay over in, before or after making that push through the region’s high-profile parks. Nestled at the mighty Snake River Canyon’s mouth, Alpine lies a stone’s skip away from pristine waters just begging for families to cavort in and around. It’s perched alongside the Snake, Greys, and Salt rivers, and opens up onto the vast big-water playground known as the Palisades Reservoir. Campers, anglers, hikers, horseback riders, boaters, kayakers, hunters—pretty much every type of outdoor enthusiast who’s ever romped beneath the Tetons—know that this playground extends well into the Alpine, Wyoming region. For years now, Jackson’s pricey real estate has nudged caravans of folks south along the Snake River to this charming area. Homesites can still be purchased here without taking on a debt service that might overwhelm average-family budgets. So critical is this bedroom community, that daily weekday buses shuttle workers and visitors between Alpine and Jackson. Travelers, too, are picking up on Alpine’s amenities. The confluence of waters, geography, and accommodations in the community provide ample outlets for visitors to mountain country. RVers, who often come up empty-handed in places with shrinking or disappearing RV parks,have no trouble finding spots to tarry in or near Alpine. Just outside the town, travelers can head up the Greys River road or wend their way around the reservoir or into the Snake River Canyon itself to camp, picnic, and recreate. The Palisades Reservoir, claiming 25 square miles of water, 70 miles of shoreline, and year-round fishing, rests right in a bonanza of mountain landscape. Of course, with this much water, one would expect nearby wetlands and waterfowl viewing areas—just the like the one a few miles south of town. The Palisades is home to native cutthroat, browns, kokanee, and mackinaw, and because motorized craft are permitted on the lake, anglers can cover a lot of water. Naturally, a reservoir this expansive would be fed by

equally impressive sources. Like the Snake and Salt rivers. regiment of resident Jackson workers who happily comBut it might be the Greys River that really surprises.Acces- mute through the Snake River Canyon every day expect sible from right downtown,this beguiling,limpid waterway what residents in any western town do: restaurants, watering holes, medical services, a winds through a gorgeous valley community calendar that nourand is nearly paralleled by a good Anglers quickly warm to the ishes a healthy social life, all the national forest roadway. The river’s accessibility and elements that knit together Wyoming and the Salt River mountain country towns. Ranges hem the river’s idyllic setprized trout population, ting and help explain its appeal to They’ve found it here in while kayakers celebrate Alpine, Wyoming. And so can campers and trekkers. Anglers anyone lucky enough to arrive at quickly warm to the river’s accessithe Greys’ early season this not-so-hidden valley among bility and prized trout population, sporting challenges. the stars. while kayakers celebrate the Greys’ For more info, go online at early season sporting challenges. The town itself serves a diverse and demanding com- www. for an introduction to munity of natives and transplants alike. Both they and a Alpine and its offerings. 

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Dave Lloyd- Owner & Builder • 56 Years Experience 185 HWY 89, Alpine WY • 307-654-FISH (3474) email DLloyd

Full Hook-ups w/both 30 and 50 amp service Pull-thrus • Large Tent Area Free Wireless internet Showers • Laundry Beer, Wine & Package Liquors In walking distance of grocery stores, restaurants, banking and Post Office Easy drive to Jackson Hole

"Take a piece of Wyoming home." Furniture Fine Art Photography Wood Bowls Clocks Jewelry & more

185 Hwy 89, Suite E • Alpine • 307-654-0077

We have your perfect dream home or investment property! 38 RV & a large tent area

Greys River Cove RV Park Tavern on the Greys 25 Highway 89, Alpine, WY 307-880-2267 or 307-654-4667

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Furniture & Gallery


Tiphany Gayhart, RESV/Associate Broker GRI

185 HWY 89 D Off: (307)654-7725 Cell: (307)690-7701 PO Box 3689 Fax: (307)654-7726 Alpine WY 83128

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Bob Woodall photos


Jackson Hole Aerial Tram



eton Village is a destination unto itself, complete with lodging and dining that ranges from four-star luxury to economy fare, and a wide array of resort activities available as turnkey adventures or do-it-yourself excursions. Tucked up against a 4,100-foot-tall mountain bedecked with forests, flowers, cliffs and crags, laced with trams and gondolas, bordering Grand Teton National Park— well, you get the picture.

Another popular option from the valley floor, hike up and ride the tram down for free. TANDEM PARAGLIDING FLIGHTS

Descend the mountain’s heights on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the unique experience of tandem paragliding. MOUNTAIN BIKING

Seven miles of super-fun single-track traverses the entire lower mountain, rolling and winding with the ski terrain (designed and built by year-round resort workers—skiers). Start biking from the base area or purchase a lift ticket at Nick Wilson’s Café to transport your bike up


The same aerial tram that whisks skiers and snowboarders up 4,139 vertical feet during ski season also carries summer vacationers on a round-trip journey into the high alpine landscape of flowers and granite. The ride might include spotting a moose, deer, or even the occasional black bear foraging on the mountainside. The sleek cabins, which carry 100 passengers in ski season, easily accommodate 60 people in the summer, standing and seated. A complete bus tour can board the tram all at once. At the summit, take in the unrivaled 360-degree views of Jackson Hole, the Snake River, and Grand Teton National Park. High-altitude weather changes quickly from sunshine to thunderstorms and vice versa, so pack a jacket, water, and sunscreen, even for a short walk. HIKING

A tram ride to the 10,450-foot summit of Rendezvous


The high-alpine tundra abounds with hardy wildflowers and fascinating geological aspects, including fossils from the ancient oceans that once covered Jackson Hole. Climbing wall

Mountain is a great way to start a hike. The high-alpine tundra abounds with hardy wildflowers and fascinating geological aspects, including fossils from the ancient oceans that once covered Jackson Hole. You can also choose to hike down the Mountain Trail, a 7.2-mile trek, or head off the backside into Grand Teton National Park for an even longer day.

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Teewinot chairlift. Ride up to the summit of the Bridger Gondola via Solitude Road. Downhill riding is not permitted above Amphitheater Bowl. Those who want to get into tricks and jumps should check out the beginner terrain park on Eagles Rest.This is great for kids and novice riders—and it’s free. Under construction now and opening in summer

2011, The Bike Park will include about five miles of new trails suitable for all skill levels. For a leisurely ride without automobiles, travel the MooseWilson pathway north to Grand Teton National Park or south all the way to Wilson. Ask any resort employee for a summer trail map or more trail details.

and science of Jackson Hole.Junior trekkers hike,play sports,undertake science and arts projects, and frolic in the water. BRIDGER GONDOLA & THE COULOIR RESTAURANT

With evening comes the Bridger Gondola as it fires up to transport diners to the Couloir Restaurant. At 9,095 feet, the contemporary and hip restaurant is nearly 3,000 feet above the valley floor and provides a unique setting for evening cocktails or dinner. The outdoor deck is a great place to gaze at Corbet’s Couloir and the soaring heights of the Headwall and Tensleep Bowl.


Saddle up and experience a trail ride at the corrals on the east side of the village. Head out on hourly trail rides astride a quality mountain horse in the company of a real cowboy wrangler. DISC GOLF


Play nine holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at one of the resort’s many shops.Playing is free. MOUNTAIN SPORTS SCHOOL

The year-round Mountain Sports School administers mountain biking, trail-orientation classes, and bungee-trampolining. Additionally, they help operate the summer yurt and private adventure guide services.

Bungee trampoline


The modern Rock Springs yurt houses a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining table.A 2.5-mile hike up a trail that gains 1,400 feet in elevation gets you there,and then your only responsibilities are enjoying the scenery and your friends. Expert guides cook the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes. KIDS’ RANCH

The Kids’ Ranch operates June 15-August 31, right next to the Bridger Gondola, and is well equipped with staff and facilities to handle wee ones from as young as six months old. Licensed day-care providers lead youngsters on adventures in Teton Village while focusing on the nature,history,

Throughout the summer Teton Village is home to many unique gatherings, some in the new Village Commons with its pop-jet fountains, playground, and natural amphitheater where free outdoor music events take place July 18,August 1,8,15,and September 5. See the Vista 360 Children’s Mountain Cultures festival at the Father’s Day celebration on June 20,the 16th Annual Jackson Hole Wine Auction from June 23-26, the Silver Collector Car Show and Auction on July 4 (complete with fireworks at dusk), the Art and Antique show from July 9-11 and August 27-29, the Art Show from July 24-26 and August 20-22,and the Logan-to-Jackson bike race finish on September 11. GRAND TETON MUSIC FESTIVAL

Witness epic orchestra performances by musicians from some of the finest orchestras in the world, including principal players from the world-famous Chicago, San Francisco,Houston,Pittsburgh,Atlanta,and Detroit symphonies. Conducted by Donald Runnicles, the summer schedule begins July 1. —Mountain Country Adventure Guide

COME AND STAY WITH US. Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant and inexpensive stay in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

1 or 2 Persons: $69—$79 per night per room 3 or 4 Persons: $79—$89 per night per room Rates vary from high to low seasons. Shared Bunkrooms available Box 583, Teton Village, WY 83025 307-733-3415 • FAX: 307-739-1142


TETON VILLAGE DAYS OF SUMMER! A mecca of wildflowers, wildlife and mountain scenery interspersed with a wonderful sampling of lodging, restaurants, spas, activities and entertainment. Whether you stay for just the day or a week, there is plenty of relaxation and adventure to enjoy for everyone.

Pick up your free copy of The Village Mix in any of the businesses in Teton Village or visit

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The town of Jackson sits adjacent to the National Elk Refuge, Snow King Mountain and Cache Creek, and East Gros Ventre Butte (right).

JACKSON Photo courtesy Jackson Hole Historical Society


This 1930s sign welcoming travelers on Teton Pass was removed in 1973, dilapidated by age. Jackson Mayor Harry Clissold posed for the drawing of the cowboy. A replica created by Bob Rudd in 2000 now stands in its place.

by Joseph Piccoli

here are more than a few oldtimers who say their community disappeared along with the sign. “Howdy Stranger, Yonder is Jackson Hole, the Last of the Old West,” said the 1930s wooden sign on Teton Pass, its cowboy fashioned after Jackson Mayor Harry Clissold. Pretty much everybody was a cowboy back then.

Times sure have changed. There’re a few real cowboys left, but Jackson Hole has become a place where an “old-timer” is anyone who has lived in the valley longer than you. The sign is back, though, recreated by Bob Rudd and the Rotary Club in the year 2000. Jackson’s history began before the cowboy,of course.

Scarcely 150 years ago, Jackson Hole was home—in summer and fall only—to small bands of Native Americans and a handful of fur trappers. Later, the trappers and Indians were replaced by homesteaders who managed to endure here while raising beef cattle and cultivating what few crops could mature during a growing season that—in a really good year—might be as long as three months. It was a tough life and it truly was a slice of the Old West. But Jackson Hole’s future (“hole” was trapper slang for a mountain valley) was determined when those homesteaders realized that dudes (rancher slang for summer tourists) were easier to keep than cattle. There are still many dude ranches in the valley, and although you can still saddle up a horse and ride off into the sunset while staying at one, you will have choices that would befuddle a trapper: will it be a horseback ride today, or tennis? Or perhaps a round of golf? Jackson Hole is now a year-round vacation destination. The town of Jackson is a gateway to Yellowstone Bob Woodall photos

(Below) Town Square with its stagecoach, boardwalks, and elk antler arches, is officially named George Washington Memorial Park.

WYOMING, 83001


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and Grand Teton national parks,to national forests,and to wilderness areas.Visitors hike, bike, ride horseback, fish, climb mountains, marvel at the geysers of Yellowstone, and gape at the stunning Teton mountains. They attend symphony orchestra concerts and browse through art galleries and museums by the dozen. So if the wide-open spaces of the Old West really were populated by cowboys and bad guys,by schoolmarms and shady ladies, clearly much of the Old West really has packed up and pulled out of town. Not all of it is gone, however, and not all of what’s left is simply a show put on for the 30,000 or so visitors who crowd the streets of downtown Jackson on an average summer day.

not want to lose the contact with friends and neighbors afforded by regular excursions to pick up their mail. The Postal Service dropped its plans for home delivery of the mail and even after opening a large post office in west Jackson a few years ago, it bowed to public pressure and kept the “old” downtown post office open. Probably the most important thing about Jackson’s Western heritage, and the thing that has remained unchanged, is its location. Sure, this is Wyoming, the state with license plates that feature a picture of a cowboy on a bucking bronco. But Jackson is also surrounded by some of the most spectacular and unspoiled lands in the West. There are millions of acres surrounding Jackson (in wilderness areas and the backcountry of Yellowstone and

Grand Teton parks) where travel on foot or by horseback is the only travel possible. For many people,the real West is found in those places where the impact of humans is least in evidence. In Jackson Hole, those places can be found in literally every direction. From the Jackson Town Square, the hub of urban life in the valley, you can reach a roadless wilderness in less time than it takes a person to reach a shopping mall in most American cities. So as glitzy as Jackson may seem to some,you’ll never be far from its roots—nor from the real West.  Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole.

The Jackson Hole Playhouse entertains nightly with live theater and dinner to boot.

Take the Shootout for example.A bunch of locals don classic Western wear every night at 6:00 p.m.(except Sunday) from Memorial Day to Labor Day, head down to the Town Square, and pretend to shoot each other.In the best spaghetti-Western tradition there’s a bit of corny melo-

The Shootout is a labor of love for locals who turn out in historically accurate costumes that really are too valuable to be worn while rolling around on the street. drama performed to set the scene, then guns blaze and the street is suddenly strewn with bodies. After a moment, the bodies stir, then stand and dust themselves off.The tourists think it’s great and you might think the event is pure Chamber of Commerce boosterism. But for the locals who produce the show it is a labor of love.Many have performed every summer for years and turn out in historically accurate costumes that really are too valuable to be worn while rolling around on the street. Another example is the wooden sidewalks in the downtown area. One woman I know (she’s a “local”) says she likes them because they give her a great reason not to wear high heels. Jackson, after all, retains enough of its Western heritage that you’ll see folks wearing blue jeans at even the most formal events. Some of what keeps Jackson a real Western town is simply the stuff of small towns everywhere.A while back the U.S. Postal Service tried to introduce home delivery of mail to Jackson. Residents objected because they did w w w. t e t o n a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

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Photos courtesy Grand Targhee Resort

Bikers and hikers on Fred’s Mountain soak in the views of Peaked Peak (right) and the massive Teton Range stretching into the distance.



igh on the western slope of the Teton Range, hidden among forests of spruce, fir, pine, and aspen, sits Grand Targhee, a full-service, year-round resort. Over 2,500 acres of perfect terrain for hiking, biking, horse-riding, music festivals, and, of course, skiing, lie upon two mountain peaks that stretch upward from the quaint Western village. And from the top of those peaks, the rugged Tetons seem close enough to reach out and touch. SCENIC CHAIRLIFT RIDE

For the best Teton views possible anywhere, without breaking a sweat,that is,ride the Dreamcatcher chairlift to the 9,862-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain. Use the lift for sight seeing or as a jump-start to a spectacular, high-altitude hike. Take your bike up the lift, too—as long as it’s the downhill variety. Learn about these special bikes and trails at Targhee’s bike shop, Teton Mountain Outfitters.

old-fashioned way. Aside from walking, riding a horse is the only way to tour the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area within the Teton Range.And horses can take you a lot farther than your own two feet.

A good horse is still the best companion—and the best mode of travel—for a long tour through these mountains. The local cowboys at Crooked Canyon Stables can saddle up a good steed and show you these mountains the

Spectacular single-track trails wind through wildflower-draped meadows near the village, and miles of technical lift-serviced downhill trails drop from the summit. Staying abreast of the growing enthusiasm for this



Targhee’s base-area plaza holds all the services needed for mountainside comfort.


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sport, Grand Targhee Resort is gaining traction as a renowned mountain bike destination. Check out a variety of mountain bike events throughout the summer, including the annual Wydaho Bike Race, a Three-Race Downhill Series, and the Pierre’s Hole 50/100. Test the latest two-wheel technology on June 2627 during mountain bike demo days. HIKE

Hikes from 30 minutes to several hours—to days,

Kimock’s Crazy Engine, Grace Potter and the Nocturnals,David Lindley,and Alejandro Escovedo. Food, games, and on-site activities are all a part of this summer music festival. Tent camping onsite is available during the festival weekend. Take advantage of the free shuttle service and leave your vehicle in Driggs.

weeks, or months for that matter—start from the village. Guided hikes are available, too. CLIMBING WALL

The fun and challenge of sport climbing is at your fingertips at Grand Targhee.Coached by the experienced staff,participants may climb six different routes on an artificial climbing wall.



Disc golf, a perfect activity for the whole family, is free to all Targhee guests. An 18-hole disc golf course begins at the base of the mountain and meanders through its lower reaches. Rent discs at the Activity Center, where score cards and maps are also available. An annual Disc Golf Tournament is held late July.

From Friday to Sunday, Aug. 13-15,check out the granddaddy of northern Rockies bluegrass festivals. Musicians, some legendary, return every year. See Bela Fleck, Bearfoot, Edgar Meyer and Zakir Hussain, Johnny Lang ripping at Targhee in ‘09 Brother Mule, Fishing Music, Keller Williams and the Keels, Mollie O’Brien and Rich NATURALIST PROGRAMS Moore,Punch Brothers—featuring Chris Thile,Sam Bush Start your Rocky Mountain journey at the Naturalist Band, Crooked Stills, and Sarah Jarosz. Center located just off the plaza and get a feel for what LODGING critters and plants you may find here.From moose to pine Three Western-style lodges are located in the alpine martin,from lupine to forget-me-not,feast your eyes,ears, village. A wide range of condominiums, vacation homes, and nose on nature’s purest assemblage in the Lower 48— and town homes are available a and know a little more about it. short distance from the resort. SPA

Spectacular single-track


Bring balance and harmony With four restaurants to to your body and spirit in The trails wind through wildchoose from at Grand Targhee, Spa at Grand Targhee. Get a trayou won’t go hungry—no matflower-draped meadows near ditional relaxation Swedish ter what time it is. The Branding massage. Or splurge on a Teton Iron Grill is the resort’s signature the village, and miles of techBody Polish,a full-body exfoliadining experience with house tion scrub with salts and essennical lift-serviced downhill specialties to suit any persuasion. tial oils.Follow that with a warm The Trap Bar, an après-ski institrails drop from the summit. steam shower or a therapeutic tution for 40 years, serves pub bath treatment. That should do fare along with live entertainthe trick! Or, simply go for a ment and eight flat screen televiswim in the heated outdoor pool, or a dip in the hot tub. sions for sports days. Wild Bill’s Grill offers fresh-tossed 6TH ANNUAL TARGHEE MUSIC FEST

pizza, burgers, and south-of-the-border creations, and Snorkels is a breakfast favorite boasting freshly baked pastries, specialty coffees, omelets, and burritos.  — Mountain Country Adventure Guide

Wade McKoy photos

From Friday to Sunday, July 16-18, an eclectic gathering of bands perform in a natural outdoor amphitheater adjacent to Targhee’s base-area plaza.Catch performances by Keb Moe, Spearhead, Los Lobos, Shawn Colvin, Steve

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Fremont Peak, thought to be Wyoming’s tallest by its namesake explorer, stands vigil over Island Lake in Titcomb Basin near Pinedale.


Hundreds of lakes, many teeming with beautiful trout, dot the Wind River Range.



by Julianne Couch

inedale might be the perfect Wyoming town. Plenty to do without being overrun with tourists. Easily accessible but not plastered with too much pavement. Home to iconic cattle herds but also to colorful wildlife, and lodged right up against record-setting trout streams and fishing lakes. In short, Pinedale is a great place to spend a sunny afternoon sitting on a bench along a wooden sidewalk, watching the world go by, and an ideal setting for a rewarding vacation in mountains and forests.

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Photos by Fred Pflughoft Home to roughly 1,500 people,Pinedale rests at an elevation of 7,100 feet and snuggles up against the pristine Wind River Mountains. It’s only 78 miles from Jackson Hole and 130 miles from Yellowstone National Park. Pinedale’s backyard encompasses the Wind River Mountains, the Bridger-Teton National Forest, and the Bridger Wilderness. The Wilderness itself contains 15 of Wyoming’s 16 highest peaks, including Gannett Peak— Wyoming’s highest at 13,804 feet—and hundreds of miles of trails, streams, and forest. There are also some 1,300 lakes, and hundreds of miles of hiking trails and fishing streams in the Bridger Wilderness. Fremont, Half Moon, and other local lakes—as well as the Green River—offer recreationists world-class fishing and boating. Fremont Lake is Wyoming’s second largest natural lake.At 9 miles long, a mile wide, and 607 feet deep, the lake is the seventh-deepest in the continental United States. One of its most coveted treasures is

Bob Woodall photo

mackinaw trout. Half Moon, Willow, and Boulder lakes are also great fishing spots, and Half Moon’s marina is both a gateway and a haven boaters. The Green River is, of course, one of Wyoming’s premier trout waterways. It originates in the Green River Lakes, not far from Gannett Peak, and flows for 730 miles

may choose to stick closer to town, though, and take an auto tour of the many historic sites in the area, clearly marked on state maps and complete with on-site historical markers. Pinedale claims a rich history as a center for farming • Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi and ranching, its inviting pasture land long a lure to live• Free Continental Breakfast stock and their caretakers. In • Free High-Speed Internet fact, both sheepmen and cattle• Refrigerator and microwave in every room men found the valley so enticing • Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area that in 1902 a battle broke out between the groups vying for 307-367-8800 Locally Owned & Managed the same territory.When a large West Hwy 191 in Pinedale • 1054 W. Pine St. flock of grazing sheep looked up Pinedale, WY 82941 to find themselves munching Reservations 1-866-995-6343 vegetation on land claimed by cattlemen, the stage was set for trouble.As a result of that transgression, a band of 150 masked men raided the sheep camps, killing a herder and clubbing to death 2,000 sheep. The rest of the sheep, and their herders, left for other grazing land. Fremont Lake—vast, deep, and named for explorer John C. Fremont Today folks are a little more before draining into Utah’s Colorado River. tolerant of differences in Sublette County and in Homemade Dough & Sauces For those who’d rather not venture into Pinedale’s vast Pinedale. Hunters, ranchers, anglers, hikers, horsemen, Dine-in, Pick-up, Delivery, Take-n-Bake backyard, there’s plenty to do right in town: sports, arts, businessmen, artists, and tourists all seem to get along history, nature, dining, dancing, something for just about just fine in this town that has something for everyone. SANDWICHES • SALADS • PASTAS any visitor.  307-367-6760 Summer fun in Pinedale begins in May with the anJulianne Couch is a freelance writer living in • 4 Country Club Lane Pinedale, WY • nual opening of the Museum of the Mountain Man (see Laramie,Wyoming. next page).Perched high on a hill overlooking the town,it offers outstanding art collections and an extensive research library of Western history.The museum sheds light on both local history and the life and times of the mountain men who rendezvoused in the Green River valley.Jim Bridger, Kit Carson, William Sublette and other hearty souls all sought beaver for the fur trade but along the way also discovered the beauty and mysteries of the Rocky Mountains. On six occasions, between 1824 and 1840, mountain men gathered just outside of what would in the late 1870s become Pinedale. They enjoyed days, sometimes weeks, of good times and pelt trading with one another and the local natives. Nowadays when folks echo the call of the mountain men to “Meet me at the Green,” they’re referring to the Green River Rendezvous Days and Pageant. The pageant has been held annually on the second weekend of July since 1936. Rendezvous Days, July 8-11, perpetuates the spirit of the original rendezvous with a host of activities, including rodeos,art shows,period crafts,a Trader’s Row, Located at the Phillips 66 historic demonstrations, and special exhibits and events on the South end of at the Museum of the Mountain Man. Pinedale. Even after the modern-day mountain men and women pack up their powder,visitors can still enjoy golfing, shopping, dining, or visiting art galleries. Open 5am to 10pm Daily The summer calendar is loaded with many other (307)367-6717 events, including a town picnic and fireworks for the 4th of July, golf tournaments, boat regattas, rodeos, a county • Breakfast selections • Fresh hot coffee • Subs • Burgers• fair, and lots of traditional family-fun events. On the way out of town,travelers can course along the • Sandwiches • Salads • Fresh-Cut Meats • Centennial Scenic Byway, which officially begins just outLunch & Dinner Specials Daily. GREAT Pizza, served all day! side of Pinedale. Along the route the kids and crew can • Propane • Ice • ATM • scan for elk, moose, deer, antelope, bears, wolves, and plenty of small mammals and other creatures that inhabit PINEDALE’S LARGEST SELECTION OF DELI MEATS & CHEESES the deep forest and,sometimes, the roadways.Some folks




31 S. Sublette Ave. Pinedale, WY



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By Mike Calabrese

Photos by Clint Gilchrist,

nly the term “mountain man” can match that of “cowboy” for the wealth of color and lore associated with the “winning of the West.” Cowboys, of course, roamed pretty much everywhere west of the Mississippi and have outlived even their almost mythical epoch of the late 1800s. But mountain men, who made do with less (after all, cowboys always had their horses and cattle), pretty much went the way of the beaver hat by the late 1850s.

For every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickok, and Wyatt Earp, there’s an equally notable mountain man. John C. Fremont and William Sublette are namesakes to a couple of Wyoming counties and mountain peaks. Jedediah Smith and Kit Carson have certainly garnered enough press to earn their places in popular Western culture. And mountain man Jim Bridger is so revered around here that visitors to Wyoming will find no fewer than 21 places

honoring him. Fitting, then, that a .40 caliber half-stock rifle of his should end up in the region’s most famous collection of mountain man history and memorabilia—the Museum of the Mountain Man in Pinedale, Wyoming. Even more fitting, the museum is situated on a hill not far from the site of the original Green River Rendezvous, held in 1833 in the “Valley of the Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of mountain men, fur trappers, and

The Green River Rendezvous Pageant portrays historic events from over 170 years ago.

Of the 16 rendezvous held during the height of the Rocky Mountain fur trade, six were located in the Green River Valley. Annual Green River Rendezvous, a re-creation of those original mountain man gatherings. This year’s rendezvous is again replete with activities for the entire family and runs July 8-11. The Rendezvous Pageant, where

A tipi village and the towering Wind River Mountain Range are part of the setting for the pageant.

over 200 members of the community perform in original costumes, is set for Sunday, July 11, at 1 p.m. on the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. For more information visit the Green River Rendezvous Pageant Association’s website at or call (307) 367-2242. The museum captures the ways and lore of these hardy individuals. Clothing, artifacts, mounted animals, even the Chief American Horse Warrior Society tipi help bring the days of the mountain man alive.

The museum also colorfully showcases western wildlife, Indians, fur trapping, wagon trains, mountain men, and bison in its 15,000-square-foot facility. The Museum of the Mountain Man is open daily from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through September 30. Admission fees are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, and $3 for kids 6-12 years old. For more information call toll free (877) 6866266 or go online at 

75th Annual Green River Rendezvous Thursday July 8 – Sunday July 11, 2010 Pinedale, Wyoming

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Pinedale, Wyoming

Book one of our year-round adventure packages today. These include, float trips, horseback riding, fishing, rodeo, golf, romance, 4-wheeling, snow machining and many more. Please call or go online for more information

West Side of Pinedale 55 Bloomfield Ave Pinedale, Wyoming 82941

• Vendor Street Fair • Rendezvous Rodeo • Green River Rendezvous Pageant • Sublette County Library “Book Sale” • “Spirit of the Winds” Fireworks Show • Museum of the Mountain Man • 3-on-3 Basketball Tournament • Sublette County Library : Capitol Christmas Tree Ornament-Making Event • Rendezvous Parade • Kid’s Fishing Derby • Trader’s Row • Live Music


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Photo Courtesy of Pam McCulloch at Pinedale Online!

Clint Gilchrist,

missionaries assembled there to barter and trade their goods. The cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a reminder and a reassurance to early trappers, who spent long and isolated winters gathering beaver pelts, and to traders who traveled countless miles on hazardous, often life-threatening trails. These rendezvous sometimes lasted for months. Time enough to get supplies, renew friendships, swap stories, trade, tipple and, naturally, debauch. Of the 16 rendezvous held during the height of the Rocky Mountain fur trade, six were located in the Green River Valley. Exhibits at the museum provide a good starting point for visitors heading to the 75th

Sublette County Chamber of Commerce

307-367-2242 888-285-7282 19 East Pine St. PO Box 176 Pinedale, WY 82941

Green River Rendezvous Pageant Association Pinedale Traders

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Gateway towns traditionally play second fiddle to the regions and attractions that lie just beyond them. Not in Mountain Country. Joining well-known Jackson and Cody, these two towns boast an appeal all their own. Dubois and West Yellowstone harbor compelling landscapes, rich histories, and endless outlets for recreation or relaxation. These gateway communities hail visitors to tarry a bit before dropping into those ultimate destinations. The tie hacks of old Dubois and the first tourists shuttled through West Yellowstone were all yearning for a place calling out to them. These gateways did just that—and they still do.


est Yellowstone rests comfortably at 6,666 feet, its air clean and refreshing—and welcoming. The town’s broad streets, passel of restaurants, diverse shops,and tree-hemmed lodging could be the start of one great venture into Yellowstone National Park itself. West, as locals call it, is the perfect place to begin preparing for that journey into the park.Bookstores stocking an amazing array of regional history, angling, and photography tomes also provide a sanctuary to relax in before—or after—a park foray. Gift shops, microbreweries, delis, pizzerias, bike and outdoor-gear rental outlets, angling shops, clothing enterprises, restaurants, sandwich counters, bars, grocery stores, all of them in West are prepared to help the weary—and at times stymied—traveler. West itself butts right up against a park that is home to 300 miles of roads, six types of ungulates, grizzly and

The rivers of Yellowstone Park, near West Yellowstone, are an anglers delight.

Watch for the Smoke Jumper program,flycasting clinics, the Mountain Bike Biathalon, The Janet Clarkson Memorial Triathlon, and the opening of fishing on the park’s inimitable Firehole River. July, of course, starts with the usual bang and festivities on the 4th,while August plays host to the 40th Annual Yellowstone Rod Run,the 6th Annual Smoking Waters Rendezvous,and the Yellowstone Historic Center Ball. Topping it all off, the West in West Yellowstone is celebrated by that most Western of traditions, rodeo. Cowpokes compete every weekend,from June through August, in the arena just a few miles outside of town. Visit for details. For more information, visit West’s chamber site at Or call the chamber at 406-646-7701.


black bears, 10,000 thermal features, roughly 200 geysers and 41 waterfalls, and at 2,221,766 acres, enough land to apply for United Nations membership. Blazing hot days and brisk, cool nights endured in cars, tents, or on the trails demand a certain amount of preparedness from Yellowstone’s visitors. Weather extremes move in and out of the area like goldfish darting around in an aquarium. The nights can carry both the haunting howling of wolves and coyotes (yep, even in town) and the daunting chill of quick temperature drops. West’s summer calendar is loaded with gatherings and a mind-boggling menu of festivities that beckon visitors. June pretty much kicks off the region’s summer season.

DUBOIS small town in big country, Dubois, Wyoming, is about an hour’s drive from Jackson (to the west) and Riverton (to the east).This little gem of a town is bordered by geography unarguably second to none. Set in the upper Wind River valley,the town is framed by Butch Cassidy’s haunting Dubois Badlands to the east, the stark Absaroka Range to the north, and the majestic Wind River Range to the south. A stroll down the main street,most of it still appointed with boardwalks,yields a taste of Wyoming’s Old West flavor. Log buildings, saloons, quaint shops, and even tipis welcome the travel-weary visitor. The nearby Wind River Range, revered by Native Americans for years before the white man’s arrival, is replete with colorful history and wildlife. Shoshone and Sheepeater Indians traveled and hunted throughout this range, which borders the 2.2-million-acre Wind River Reservation, today home to Northern Arapaho and Eastern Shoshone tribes. Backpackers and hikers to the Winds can choose from


Bob Woodall photos



The Absaroka Mountains lie north of Dubois and tower over Torrey Lake.

nearly 800 miles of trails lacing the range’s vast, stunning beauty. Over 150 glaciers work the Winds,beckoning hikers and climbers alike. The Winds are studded with lakes and creeks, themselves teeming with rainbow, cutthroat, golden, brook, German brown, and mackinaw trout. Anglers should come well supplied and ready to reel. And much of the wildlife that Yellowstone visitors can spy also roams the Winds. One of the world’s most magnificent big game animals, the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, is showcased in the Dubois area, both indoors and outdoors. The

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Whiskey Mountain Wildlife Habitat Area, just minutes from town, is home to North America’s largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. And the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, in downtown Dubois, provides an awe-inspiring venue for the country’s most impressive display of these noble creatures. Dubois is not some sleepy little Wyoming town scrambling for tourist bait. Dubois is that little diamond doorway into the historic past and today’s great outdoors. Want to know more? Call: 307-455-2556. 

LODGING DIRECTORY Grand Targhee Resort

Jackson Hole Super 8

Looking south over Jackson Hole and Grand Teton National Park; photo Bob Woodall

Grand Targhee offers convenient, comfortable, and flexible lodging both on-mountain and in Teton Valley. Whether you desire to be at the Resort or on Ski Hill Road you have immediate access to the area’s summer adventures including mountain biking, horseback riding, rafting, fly fishing, and much more. Alta, Wyoming 83414 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300

Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city bus, river rafting, and other recreation. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator,cable TV with HBO and free local calls. Custom packages & group rates. 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833

Motel 6 Resort in Jackson

Lakeside Lodge Resort

Two miles from historic town square, 1 block from free bus shuttle, Next to Kmart shopping center with shops and restaurants. All guest rooms were completely remodeled spring 2009. Guest rooms surround a park like setting for picnics and our swimming pool. Guest laundries, free local calls, free morning coffee,WIFI access & expanded cable. Pet friendly & kids under 18 stay free 600 So. Hwy 89, Jackson, Wy 83001 307-733-1620 Fax: 307-734-9175 Reservations Number 1-800-466-8356

Located on the shore of Fremont Lake 4-miles north of Pinedale. Western hospitality, privacy & informal comfort surrounded by pristine wilderness. The resort includes a main lodge & restaurant, deluxe log cabins, and marina with boat rentals. A perfect location for meetings, conventions, family reunions, receptions, training sessions or any large group function. Pinedale, Wyoming 82941 877-755-LAKE / 307-367-2221

Mountain Property Management

Painted Buffalo Inn

Located just three blocks from the Town Square, the Painted Buffalo Inn offers convenient, comfortable accommodations in the heart of Jackson. Within walking distance, you will find streets lined with restaurants, shops, and galleries. Once here, our knowledgeable staff will help to ensure an enjoyable vacation for you and your family.

We offer a wide selection of Jackson Hole lodging, featuring vacation rental homes, condos and cabins to suit all tastes and budgets. A broad selection of properties cater to the diverse requirements of visitors. Rentals range in size from one-bedroom condos to custom luxury mountain estates. Many properties are located minutes from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Grand Teton National Park or the southern entrance to Yellowstone National Park. Jackson, Wyoming 83001 1-800-992-9948 307-733-1648



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Grand Targhee Resort Jackson Hole Super 8 Lakeside Lodge & Marina Motel 6 Mountain Property Management Painted Buffalo Inn


Rates Based on Double Occupancy







400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340

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($) Cost Per Night up to $100; ($$) Cost Per Night up to $250; ($$$) Cost Per Night over $250 w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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A C T I V I T I E S –B U S I N E S S E S –S E R V I C E S CO DY , W YO M I N G

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G

Jenny Lake & Teton Village. Beginner to Advanced. Climb Grand Teton & other peaks. One-day climbs. Families & groups. Reservations: 307 733-2297. pg 31 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds, Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800239-7642 pg 29 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT CLIMBING WALL A variety of climbs from easy to complex. pg 41

BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information center, 836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 pg 37

THE BARN DOOR Unique furnishings, antiques, gifts & accessories for the home. Don’t miss this special diamond in the rough. 31 South Sublette Av. 307-367-3667, pg 47

SUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River & Wyoming pg 47

ACCOMMODATIONS & RV PARKS A L P I N E , W YO M I N G GREYS RIVER COVE RV PARK Just 35 miles south of Jackson Hole through the Snake River Canyon. 38 full RV hook-ups & a large tent area, in walking distance of grocery stores, restaurants, bank & P.O., showers, laundry, free wireless internet. 25 Highway 89, 307-8802267 or 307-654-4667 pg 39

D U B O I S , W YO M I N G TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacations with programs for the whole family. (800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225

G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the summit, experience downhill and cross-country mountain biking or horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800TARGHEE pg 45 & 51

J AC K S O N , W YO M I N G MOTEL 6 Remodeled! Remarkable! Clean, friendly, affordable. Pet friendly, kids under 18 stay free. Outdoor pool & picnic courtyard open in summer. Guest laundry. WI-FI. 600 So. Hwy 89,, 307-733-1620 Reservations call: 800-4MOTEL6 pg 51 MOUNTAIN PROPERTY MANAGEMENT offers a wide selection of Jackson Hole lodging, featuring vacation rental homes, condos, and cabins to suit all tastes and budgets., 800-9929948 or 307-733-1648 PG 51 PAINTED BUFFALO INN Offers comfortable lodging in the heart of downtown Jackson, 3-blocks from the Town Square. Swimming pool, sauna & shuttle stops are just a few of the conveniences we offer. 400 W. Broadway, 800-288-3866 pg 51 SUPER 8 Experience true western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator. Custom packages & group rates., 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-8008000/307-733-6833 pg 51 VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, swimming pool, restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities. 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 33 VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50 amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool, restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 33

PINEDALE, WYOMING HAMPTON INN & SUITES PINEDALE, We have 102, comfortable, clean rooms! Amenities include fitness room, pool, business center, complimentary breakfast, laundry/valet service. Call for information on one of our adventure packages today. West side of Pinedale, 307-367-6700 pg 49 LAKESIDE LODGE RESORT AND MARINA On the shore of Fremont Lake, 4-miles north of Pinedale. Privacy & informal comfort surrounded by pristine wilderness. Resort includes main lodge & restaurant, deluxe log cabins, & marina, with magnificent views of the lake & the Wind River Mountain Range., 307-367-2221 pg 51 THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Center of Pinedale, 43 rooms, deluxe continental breakfast, indoor pool & jacuzzi,laundry, highspeed internet, lobby computer & free Wi-Fi, refrigerator & microwave in every room, Sat-TV w/HBO. 866-995-6343 pg 47 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE pg 49

T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G HOSTEL A friendly lodge with rooms all have private baths & maid service. Rates range from $69 for 1-2 people to $89 for 3-4 people. Bunk rooms available. At the base of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, in Teton Village, Wyoming. 307-733-3415 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 pg 41 TETON VILLAGE A wide variety of lodging choices from high end to very affordable are available in Teton Village. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in Teton Village or visit on-line at or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41

ART–ANTIQUES–JEWELRY–FURNITURE A L P I N E , W YO M I N G BUFFALO MOUNTAIN FURNITURE & GALLERY Unique gifts to furniture for your home. Take Wyoming home with benches, stools, photography, fine art, jewelry, clocks, bowls. WE SHIP. 307-654-0077 pg 39

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G DANSHELLEY JEWELERS: Wyoming’s Finest Jewelry Experience since 1976! From diamonds & elk ivory, to Teton & wildlife originals & distinctive wedding sets. This gallery transcends the ordinary! Downtown in Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square. 125 N. Cache. 307-733-2259 pg 3 HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premier gallery of fine jewelry designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces. The original designers of the Teton pendants, charm & rings, plus a large selection of unique charms and charm beads. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. 307-733-5599 PG 11


JC JEWELERS Jackson's premier fine jewelry store. Specializing in custom designs in bridal and fine colored stone jewelry using ecofriendly precious metals and gems. Known for integrity, knowledge, and creativity. PG 13 TETON VILLAGE Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts several art and antique shows. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41

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WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin., 19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 29

BIG 0 TIRES Featuring famous Big O Brand Tires. Bigfoot tires for all your SUV and 4x4 needs. Computer alignment, complete brake service, shocks, struts & wheels, express oil change. Best tire warranty in the business. 90-day financing available. Next to K-Mart & Motel 6, 530 S. Hwy 89, 307-733-8325 pg 21

BICYCLE: RENTAL, SALES, & SERVICE J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain-bike adventures on the Elk Refuge, Snow King Mountain, and the Bridger-Teton Forest. Beginners thru experts. Great Fun. 40 S. Millward. 307-733-5335 pg 17 FITZGERALD’S BICYCLES WANTED! Visitors to Jackson Hole looking for bike rentals, repair, sales & local info. Must be willing to interact with friendly bike addicts. Appreciation for customer service a must! 307-734-6886 pg 19 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Dealer for Specialized, Trek, Haro and Santa Cruz. Bike tours daily. 520 West Broadway. 307-733-5335 pg 17 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. 307-739-2687 pg 41 TETON VILLAGE Several sports stores rent, sell and service bicycles. or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41

T E TO N V A L L E Y- D R I G G S / V I C TO R , I D A H O GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Mountain bike rentals, single & double track riding from base. A variety of downhill riding from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 45

BOATING, SCENIC & WHITEWATER RAFTING J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G MAD RIVER BOAT TRIPS With 14 departures daily, Mad River has something for everyone. New equipment, trained guides & the most variety. Breakfast, lunch & dinner trips.The best name in whitewater & scenic trips! 1255 S Hwy 89, 307-733-6203/800-4587238 pg 21 SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS In our 5th decade, our boatmen have a deep knowledge of every turn, rapid, & current. We've taken tens of thousands of people safely down river, including the President of the United States. Variety of scenic & whitewater trips, breakfast & overnight trips. 307-733-4410/800-358-8184 pg 21

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G LAKESIDE LODGE & MARINA Offers marina services, gas, boat slips—seasonal & temporary, trailer parking, pontoon, small fishing boat, canoe, kayak, paddle boat & jet boat rentals. Quick tie ups for those stopping for a meal, purchase beer, or to visit. On Fremont Lake, 4–miles from Pinedale., 307-367-2221 pg 51

CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHY J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Authorized dealer: Canon, Nikon, Leica, & Pentax. Binoculars, film, frames, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 pg 2 & 55 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Mountain Country, Jackson Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 JH PHOTO SAFARIS Embark on a relaxed, educational photo safari through Teton & Yellowstone. Photographers looking to hone their wildlife & scenic skills and curious environmental observers are welcome on board our Sprinter Van for a journey into the majestic mountains that form the valley of Jackson Hole. 877-607-6377 pg 13 WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H. Holdsworth.T Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney 307-733-8877 pg 13

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J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 43rd Anniversary! Locally owned & operated, Jackson’s premier outdoor store, extensive selection of brand name products needed for any outdoor pursuit. Two locations; on the Square in Jackson 307-733-3270, Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. pg 25 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 41 TETON VILLAGE boasts a wide range of outdoor apparel stores. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village businesses for the listings or visit on-line at pg 41

DINING–RESTAURANTS–DELI–GROCERIES LOUNGES & LIQUOR STORES A L P I N E , W YO M I N G TAVERN ON THE GREYS A fun hometown pub located at Greys River Cove RV Park in beautiful Alpine. Drinks served to you"Tavern STYLE" by Larrisa, Allison, Carla, Alice & Mickie, good for groups, outdoor seating, beer, wine & package liquors. 25 Highway 89, 307654-4667. pg 39

G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE serves up a variety of fare at reasonable prices. Find dining at the Branding Iron Grille, quick snacks at Snorkel’s or Wild Bill’s Grille, or a full service cafeteria. The Trap Bar & Grille is home to great food, spirits and local entertainment in a casual atmosphere. pg 45

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS The locals' first choice for a great half pound burger, hot dogs and sandwiches. In a lively diner atmosphere. Daily from 11:30 thru dinner. Counter service & takeout. Next to the Cadillac Grille, on the Square. 307-733-3279 pg 56 CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 20 years. Choice steaks, game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with care & precision for the discerning palate. Lunch & dinner. Premium well drinks. Bar menu. 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7daily. Opens daily at 11:30. On the Jackson Town Square. 307-733-3279 pg 56 COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT Step off the Bridger Gondola 3,000’ above the valley at 9,095’ for fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant, a truly unique dining experience. Open evenings June 27-Sept 10 (except Sat), Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck,” start July 4. Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, & downtown in Gaslight Alley. 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. pg 2 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendium of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line at JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT At Teton Village, over 12 restaurants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to distinct American cuisine. pg 41 McDONALD’S® OF JACKSON HOLE Great Tastes, Affordable Choices. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared breakfast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. 5:00am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway Hwy 22. pg 11 TETON VILLAGE has a wide array of food and drink establishments are scattered throughout. Pick up the Village Mix brochure for the listings, or on-line at 866-749-4077 pg 41 VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 33




LAKESIDE LODGE RESTAURANT Dine inside or out on the deck and enjoy fine food and spirits in a casual atmosphere with breathtaking views of Fremont Lake and the Wind River, 307-367-2221 pg 51 OBO’S MARKET & DELI-SPECIALTY MEATS Breakfast selections, fresh coffee, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads, fresh-cut meats. Lunch & dinner specials, GREAT Pizza, served all day! Pinedale’s

GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL Experience the fun and challenge of sport climbing at the base area. Our staff will help coach you to the top of our specially designed climbing wall. pg 45

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G CLIMB WITH THE EXUM GUIDES Daily climbing instruction -

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largest selection of deli meats & cheeses. 5am to 10pm Daily. At the Phillips 66 on the south end of Pinedale. (307)367-6717 pg 47 WIND RIVER PIZZA & PASTA ”Best Pizza in Wyoming!”Dough & sauces homemade daily, organic and highest quality ingredients make for phenomenal food! Panini’s, hoagies, incredible salads, pastas, Philly cheese steak. 4 Country Club Lane, 307-367-6760 pg 47

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE RODEO Wednesday & Saturday, all summer, at 8 p.m.Reserved seating – $19.50, General admission – adult $14, children $8.50, Family ticket at the gate only – $42.50 (2 parents & children under 18). Tickets online their, (307)733-7297 pg 35





GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800TARGHEE pg 45

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the summit, access our mountain bike trails or horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 45

T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop. 307-739-2687 pg 41

T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM The NEW tram is here! Ride 4,139’ above the valley to 10,450’ and the alpine timberline environment. Take in the 360 degree panorama, naturalist on duty. The bigger cabins can accommodate up to 60 people. 307-739-2654 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Ride 3,000’ above the valley to 9,095’ to the Bridger Restaurant. Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck,” July 4-Sept 10 (except Sat). Fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant June 27–Sept 10. Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 2-for-1 Happy Hour, 4:30-5:30 307-739-2654 pg 41

GIFTS–RETAIL SPECIALTIES J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G TETON VILLAGE Gift shops, apparel, sports equipment, at Jackson Hole Sports in the Bridger Center. 732-3618 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs available, WE SHIP! SEE FOOD & RESTAURANTS pg 2 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 41

TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT Ride the chairlift with your bike or on foot to access miles of single track for all types of riders & hiking trails into Grand Teton NP. Tickets (free with rental) & bike rentals at JH Sports in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. 307-739-2687 pg 41



D U B O I S , W YO M I N G THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225

D U B O I S , W YO M I N G NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these magnificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 15

G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 45


MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CARE J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE Walk-ins welcome. X-ray & laboratory services on-site so doctors can assess & treat your condition promptly. Open extended hours, evenings & weekends. In the Smith’s Plaza, 1415 S. Hwy 89, 307-739-8999 pg 43 ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT Staffed 24/7 by board-certified emergency medicine physicians. St. John’s offers comprehensive hospital care including diagnostic imaging, certified Clinical Laboratory & Surgery Center services. 625 E. Broadway, 307-733-3636 pg 43

MUSIC GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS Great food, vendors, games, part of our summer music festivals. Tent camp in our beautiful forest during events. It starts with the 6th Annual Targhee Fest, July 1618. Next is the 23rd Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival, Aug 13-15. pg 45 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 38 TETON VILLAGE Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts musical performances. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at pg 41

OUTDOOR SHOPS-FISHING-CAMPING-HIKING A L P I N E , W YO M I N G ALPINE ROD & REEL Dave Lloyd–Owner & Builder, 56-years experience. Custom built rods, custom bamboo rods, rod & reel repair & refinishing. Guns & ammo, camping & hunting supplies. Wyo hunting & fishing licenses, ATV permits., 185 HWY 89, Unit C, 307-654-FISH (3474) pg 39

D U B O I S , W YO M I N G WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin., 19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 29

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Bob Woodall

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 43rd Anniversary! Exceptional guided fishing trips, hand-crafted flies, and superior service are the norm. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270 & the Alpenhof in Teton Village, 307-733-6838. pg 25 TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the Historic Snake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality mountain horses. Next to Teton Village., 307733-2674 pg 41 WAGONS WEST COVERED WAGON TREKS Relive pioneer days on a 2, 4 or 6 day trek into the Mt. Leidy highlands of Jackson Hole. Horseback riding, chick wagon meals, campfire entertainment. Sleep in tent or wagon. 307-886-5284, 800-447-4711 pg 33 WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & professional guided fly fishing services. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 25 YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hr & all-day horseback rides into Teton Wilderness. 6-day 1st class horse-pack trips into Yellowstone & Thorofare Rivers. Orvis-endorsed outfitter. Box Creek base camp east of Moran Jct. @ 23590 Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & Sept. Reservations needed, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 33 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in the Wind River & Wyoming pg 47

JH PHOTO SAFARIS Embark on a relaxed, educational photo safari through Teton & Yellowstone. Photographers looking to hone their wildlife & scenic skills and curious environmental observers are welcome on board our Sprinter Van for a journey into the majestic mountains that form the valley of Jackson Hole. 877-607-6377 pg 13 RIVER RUNNERS MUSEUM Historic boats, rafts, artifacts & replicas take visitors into another era, when river running was a courageous & risky means of travel. In the Mad River Boat Trips “Wedge,” 1255 S Hwy 89, Jackson 307-733-6203 pg 21 WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL provides yearround wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to anyone interested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater Yellowstone’s wild animals in their natural habitat. 888-9453567, 307-733-2623 pg 8

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G

Bison-Yellowstone National Park

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike & outdoor shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Hiking & running shoes and accessories. 520 West Broadway-#3. 307733-5335 pg 17 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 43rd Anniversary! Locally owned and operated. Extensive selection of brand name products for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, & superior service. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270, the Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. pg 25 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & resort wear for the entire family. 307-739-2687 pg 41 TETON VILLAGE Several Outdoor stores in Teton Village have gear, clothing etc. to outfit you for any adventure. Pick up the Village Mix brochure or on-line at pg 41 WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts. Most complete selection of flies & tackle available. Mail order & website catalogues. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the Aspens. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 25

PARAGLIDING JH PARAGLIDING Tandem paragliding rides from the top of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram—the experience of a lifetime. Instruction available. Reservations & rates in Café 6311 at the Nick Wilson’s at the base of the Bridger Gondola, (307) 690-4948 pg 41

75rd ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hourlong re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history of the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 11, 1pm at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 49 MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily 9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekend July 8-11, 2010. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 48

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A GRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER See LIVE bears & wolves. Get a glimpse into their worlds at this AZA accredited, Not-forProfit, Wildlife Park & Educational Center. Films, programs & activities for all ages. 1-block from Yellowstone National Park. Open 365 days a year (GWDC bears DO NOT hibernate). 1-800-257-2570 pg 15

WYOMING HISTORICAL SITE VISITOR CENTER CO DY , W YO M I N G BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER Open daily May 1-Sept. 30. Free admission, enjoy views from the top of the dam. The center includes exhibits, a theater, a self-guided audio tour, bookstore, & restrooms. Located 6 miles west of Cody on way to Yellowstone. pg 38


REAL ESTATE REAL ESTATE OF STAR VALLEY Specializing in all properties in Jackson Hole, Alpine (Star Valley) & Pinedale areas. We can help w/ all your real estate needs. Member of the Teton Board of Realtors/MLS. Contact us today, (307)690-7701 pg 39

A L P I N E , W YO M I N G


TETON VILLAGE There are several real estate offices located in Teton Village. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village businesses or visit on-line at pg 41

RODEO CO DY , W YO M I N G CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grandstand, free parking. Tickets available at the covered wagon in city park, front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 35

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 45

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 41 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY Thirty years in Jackson Hole, impeccable references. Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese 307-733-5459 pg 38

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G LAKESIDE LODGE & RESTAURANT has meeting facilities to accommodate up to 100 participants for your company meeting/convention, weddings, family reunions or other special events. Catering service is available., 1-877-755LAKE(5253) / 307-367-2221 pg 51 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Facilities for any function, from guest ranches to hotels. pg 48

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INFORMATION BOZEMAN, MONTANA 406-586-5421 CODY, WYOMING 307-587-2297 DUBOIS, WYOMING 307-455-2556 GARDINER, MONTANA 406-848-7971 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING 307-733-3316 LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 406-222-0850 MEETEESE, WYOMING 307-868-2423 PINEDALE, WYOMING 307-367-2242 POWELL, WYOMING 307-754-3494 RED LODGE, MONTANA 406-446-1718 TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO 208-354-2500 WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA 406-646-7701 WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 800-645-6233 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381 Map design by Bob Woodall Copyright 2010 – Focus Productions




T o Rock Springs

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ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE SQUARE 733-3279 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING L A R G E G R O U P S A N D PA R T I E S A R E W E L C O M E w w w. c a d i l l a c - g r i l l e . c o m

Mountain Country Adventure Guide to Grand Teton and Yellowstone Region 2010  

Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Park Traveler’s Guide to Mountain Country is a summer traveler’s guide for vacationers on the many acti...