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Resorts Wildlife Trail Maps Backcountry National Parks Beyond Skiing










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The Locals’ Shop


Two ski rental locations, including Snow King – 734-4425

Volkl • K2 • Rossignol • Line Dalbello • Full Tilt • Dynafit • Salomon • Marker

OPEN DAILY 8 a.m. – 9 p.m.


SNOWBOARDS: Burton • Arbor • Prior • Ride • Jones • Smokin’

CLOTHING: Helly Hansen • Flylow • Westcomb • Sherpa Design Planet Earth • Burton • Outdoor Research • Ride



Photo: Wade McKoy / Focus Productions Skier: Jeff Leger



Y E L L O W S T O N E S N O W COAC H E X C U R S I O N S Experience the spell of the Old West in Winter,,,,in comfort Scenic adventures to Old Faithful or Yellowstone Canyon

Photos: Bob Woodall

Exclusive tours of Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks in the warmth & comfort of our Ford Excursions. Our friendly local guides will educate and entertain you with their knowledge of the wildlife, geology, history and love of the Yellowstone Country. We Specialize in Private Tours! Call for Reservations:

Winter Season: December 15, 2010 to March 15, 2011

Permittee of Yellowstone National Park


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1.800.661.4928 1.307.455.2225

Trips include • Hotel Transfers • Gourmet Lunch w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m



Gaslight Alley • Downtown Jackson Hole • 125 N.Cache • • 307.733.2259 ALL DESIGNS COPYRIGHTED

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XC Ski Centers, Tube Parks, Ice Climbing Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Park & Pipe Dept. builds Stash Parks Anomaly Freeride Team JHMR Ski Patrol Open-Boundary Protocol Bridger-Teton Avalanche Center Avalanche School Schedule Jackson Hole’s Ski Mountaineering Team Hound Dogs Rescued by Ski Patrol The 29th Annual Town Downhill Grand Targhee Resort Adaptive Ski Programs Parting Shot: Snow King’s Pond Skim

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Ski with a Mountain Guide First Woman Snowboard Descent of Grand Teton Helicopter Skiing in Alaska Helicopter Skiing in Wyoming & Idaho

Cover skier Andrew Whiteford Contents skier Lynsey Dyer

The JACKSON HOLE SKIER annual winter visitor’s guide is free when picked up at one of 160 distribution points throughout Jackson Hole. Receive one in the mail by sending $5 to Focus Productions Inc, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001.

Copyright—2010 by Focus Productions, Inc. (fpi). All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

JH SKIER web sites —, JH SKIER on Facebook —

Publishers: Bob Woodall and Wade McKoy Managing Editor: Wade McKoy Copy Editor: Mike Calabrese Senior Editor: Bob Woodall Editorial Assistant: Eric Rohr Art Director: Janet Melvin Photo Editors: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Eric Rohr Advertising Sales: Nanci Montgomery, Ike Faust Distribution Manager: Brandon Arbour

Cover, contents photos by Wade McKoy

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Swift. Silent. Deep., a Documentary Film In Memoriam, Wray Landon Jackson Skiers in U.S. Ski Hall of Fame Pepi Stiegler, World Cup Race Stories Honoring Jimmy Zell Artists in the Ski Community In Memoriam, Mark “Big Wally” Wolling

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Wildlife in Winter Driving Tips, Give Wildlife a Brake Yellowstone National Park Activities Beyond the Slopes Made in Jackson Hole Mushers & Sled Dogs Snowmobiling Alpine Medical Advice Business Directory Lodging Directory Resort Maps Town of Jackson Map

Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep

Story by Bert Raynes Photography by Henry H. Holdsworth Wild By Nature Gallery

Winters in the northern Rocky Mountains are long and harsh, yet many animals and birds do not migrate south or hibernate. A remnant population of the threatened trumpeter swan winters on those ponds and creeks that remain unfrozen. Flat Creek immediately north of Jackson often harbors several dozen swans, and in Grand Teton National Park a few winter on the Snake River below Jackson Lake Dam. Trumpeters can be found in Yellowstone National Park on the Yellowstone and Madison Rivers. It’s nearly impossible to visit Jackson Hole in wintertime and not see elk. The National Elk Refuge occupies a prominent location, one you are unlikely to miss. Elk, moving by instinct from deep snows to their north, west, and east, are constrained by fences from following their traditional routes south, so they winter by the thousands on the refuge. Wherever you travel in the region, scan the buttes and lower slopes for mule deer. Mule deer, and occasionally white-tailed deer, depend upon south-facing slopes which, when blown free of snow cover, can support browsing animals. Moose, on the other hand, should be looked for along rivers, creeks, and wetlands. As a matter of fact, should you be off-road touring on your X-C skis in thickly vegetated areas, look carefully for moose. You don’t want to make them run, especially at you. They’re very large wild creatures. Bison, often called buffalo, are even bigger than moose. They can go a ton-and-a-half; don’t mess with them. Bison winter in and near Yellowstone National Park, particularly near thermal areas. Snowmobilers often

Trumpeter swans


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When you notice a coyote or two or a cluster of birds concentrating upon a particular spot in the landscape, you can anticipate that there’s some particular food source and also that a variety of animals will attempt to take advantage of it.


come upon these wild beasts. Coyotes are active throughout the year, catching rodents, small animals, and birds; in winter they seek carrion. Tens of thousands of large mammels winter in the Yellowstone region, and many die. A single elk carcass, for instance, can feed wolves, coyotes, ravens, magpies, bald and golden eagles, and other animals and birds. There is little waste in nature.

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Little waste in nature; a hint comes from that realization. To wit, when you notice a coyote or two or a cluster of birds concentrating upon a particular spot in the landscape, you can anticipate that there’s some particular food source and also that a Magpie variety of animals will attempt to take advantage of it. Over a period of hours or even minutes ravens, bald and golden eagles, magpies, and other birds may arrive, sometimes in small flocks. Ravens are large, all-black birds. Magpies are black and white and sport long, mobile tails. Bald eagles are black and white and are impressively large; golden eagles are sometimes larger and are a brownish-black.

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Every wild animal and bird that winters in the Rocky Mountains stretches its resources simply to survive all those difficult months.


Look for bald eagles along any river course in the entire area. They won’t pass up a carcass, but they are primarily fish eaters. Golden eagles prefer rock cliffs as perches and a few inhabit the Yellowstone region. It is a common misperception that winter is a poor time to look for birds. Such nifty bird species as hairy woodpeckers, mountain and black-capped chickadees, evening and pine grosbeaks, Clark’s nutcrackers and Cassin’s finches are often seen around ski areas, in the towns, and along water courses. Waterfowl such as Barrow’s goldeneyes, Canada geese, mallards, and pintails are found when ponds and streams have not frozen over solidly. The dipper, or water ouzel, an intrepid little gray bird that hops into and out of fast water seeking insects and crustaceans, is not only unique, but also will sing throughout the winter months. Less common wild residents in the Water ouzel area include otters and ermine and snowshoe hare, rough-legged hawks and some owls, mountain lions, and wolves. Every wild animal and bird that winters in the Rocky Mountains stretches its resources simply to survive all those difficult months. Temperatures plunge to minus 40 or minus 50, access to natural foods is limited,

Boreal owl

and wild creatures must avoid their natural enemies. Survival is the first priority; surviving in good enough physical condition to be able to mate and to reproduce one’s kind next year. So: do not stress any wild animal unnecessarily! Don’t alarm it, or chase it, or mess with its flight or feeding. If you do you will likely kill it. You might not see the actual death—it may occur days later—but the responsibility would be yours. That’s not included in a good ski vacation.

Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in the Jackson Hole News & Guide. He has penned four publications covering the birds and animals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. His two favorite books, Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chronicles, have received well-deserved, wide acclaim. Bert’s latest book, Birds of Sage and Scree, has just been released.

Give Wildlife a Brake!

WINTER DRIVING TIPS • Expect wildlife on our roads. This is Jackson Hole and we share this valley with wildlife. • If you encounter an animal on a road with high snow banks, allow it to move down the road at its own pace until it finds a place to jump off the road. • Scan the sides of the roads for wildlife. • Stay alert while driving; be prepared to stop. • Wildlife cross roads primarily during dawn, dusk, and at night. • If you see one elk, deer, or moose along a roadway, you are likely to see more. • If you see an animal on the road, expect the unexpected. It doesn’t instinctively know how to react to your car. Give the animal time and room to move off the road. Do not try to outrun it. • If you see a wildlife-crossing sign, pay attention. It’s there for a reason. — Jackson Hole Wildlife Foundation

Bighorn sheep rams


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Yellowstone inWinter Y

Photography by Bob Woodall Story by Mike Calabrese

ellowstone in winter is a Christmas tree sparkling with breathtaking wonders. Crystalline snow adorns countless lodgepole pines in a vast and magical landscape. A landscape childlike in its appeal but hinting at ecological complexity, tantalizing visitors of all ages and from all walks of life. Fumaroles, geysers, mudpots, and hot springs gurgle and bubble, releasing dreamlike vapors and creating a phantasmagorical setting. Perhaps most startling, the sound of winter; so very unlike that of summer, especially for those venturing off away from where visitors

Above: The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is up to 900 feet deep and a half mile in width. Left: Hot springs are a kaleidoscope of various colored algae. Below: A discharge of silt from a spring creates a fantail of sediment.

have gathered transfixed by any of the countless geothermal displays. Trees soughing in the breeze, even the cat’s-paw touch of snow falling await those attentive to or searching for the park’s barely audible sonic beauty. Accessible by snow coach or snowmobile, Yellowstone in winter is anything but dormant for those seeking a glimpse into perhaps nature’s most mysterious and demanding season. Eerie, lovely, and bracing, winter in Yellowstone transports visitors into a still but vibrant setting, millions of years in the making and infinitely fascinating. 12

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Underwater hot springs in Yellowstone Lake melt portals in the ice that otters use to access the surface.

Above: Differing water temperatures in hot springs allow a spectrum of colored algae to grow. Below: Mud pots, mosses, and hoarfrost blend in a mosaic of color.

Above: Each winter the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is transformed into a curtain of 308-foot-tall icicles. Below: Bison find warmth and forage in snow-free geyser basins.

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D•I•V•E•R•S•I•O•N•S National Elk Refuge

SHOPPING Shopping Jackson Hole: Try it, you’ll like it. Naturally, shopping can only take up just so much of a visitor’s or even a local’s time. Then it’s either off to the withdrawal clinic or head on out to some of the valley’s notable best-kept or leastwell-kept secrets. Downtown shopping for my wife and me usually starts at Hungry Jack’s in Wilson. Same for every one of our guests, no matter the time of year. From there it’s off to Jackson or Teton Village, where despite the absence of mega-malls here, ideas for gifts and necessary items bloom yearround. My wife and I are still buying outdoor gear and clothing (stuff that really works, especially in our winters), art, books, and jewelry proffered right here in the valley. And in our 38 years here, every guest at our home has insisted on a tour of Jackson Hole commerce; all of them packed something special into a suitcase for themselves or someone special back home.

ELK REFUGE Okay, it’s an elk refuge. But these majestic ungulates also share that winter range with bighorn sheep, bison, mule deer, and yes, Virginia, even wolves. Set between the Teton and Gros Ventre mountain ranges, the National Elk Refuge rubs up against the town of Jackson and affords visi-

National Elk Refuge

tors the chance to mingle with wildlife–absent any zoo bars or cages. Climb aboard a horsedrawn sleigh and glide gracefully through thousands of elk wintering in wide-open spaces. Sleighs are run seven days a week from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (except on Christmas) by the same folks


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who provide food and fun at their Bar T Five chuckwagon shows all summer. Adults pay $18; youngsters 6-12, $14; tikes under 5 pay nothing. Visitors can call 733-5386 or go online at to reserve a seat on the sleigh. No need for reservations, though, unless a large private tour would better fit the bill. Or simply drop by the Greater Yellowstone Region Visitor Center on north Cache, right next to the elk refuge. The whole shebang can be arranged at the center. And don’t forget the camera!


PHOTO SAFARI Itching to put that new digital SLR to use? Or dying to simply capture, with your own eyes, the glory that our nearby parks have to offer? Then take your best shot with Paul Martin Photo Safaris. A photographer with over 30 years behind the lens, Martin now also transports nature lovers, photographers, and the curious to the region’s most scenic vistas. His eco-friendly safari van affords every passenger/photographer a clear shot at the region’s flora and fauna. Hightech binoculars and viewing scopes, supplied by Martin, stack the odds in favor of the viewer. Outings can be tailored to the group’s needs and experience. View his stunning, iconic photos and learn more about his tour philosophy and packages at or call 877-607-6377.

AJ De Rosa’s Wooden Boat River Tours, highly regarded for its first-class summer packages, embraces Jackson Hole winters with the same thoughtful and personalized offerings. Wildlife Snowshoe Adventures, DeRosa’s one-ofa-kind winter excursions, offers visitors exhilarating guided snowshoe walks or horse-drawn sleigh rides through snowmantled landscape brimming with Jackson Hole wildlife. After wending their way through winter habitat of pine and cottonwood glades harboring moose, deer, elk, trumpeter swans, and bald eagles, adventurers relax at a delightfully warm tipi nestled on the banks of the famous Snake River. Inside, travelers are feted to warm beverages and a hot lunch beside a fire crackling in a wood stove. These outings on moonlit evenings are even more breathTorchlight Parade taking and include dinner! For more info call 307-732-BOAT or go online at www.wood TORCHLIGHT PARADES A torchlight parade bejewels the slopes of EYE ON NATURE Snow King Mountain every New Year’s Eve and If you landed at our airport, or drove into for the start of the Stage Stop Sled Dog Race in our valley from any direction, more than likely January. Both Jackson Hole and Grand Targhee you spotted some of our internationally famous resorts boast torchlight parades on Christmas Eve, wildlife: the obvious notables, the big ones – the Christmas Day, and New Year’s Eve. Festive ski elk, the deer, the moose, the bison. The very area employees and other participating skiers, fauna that make Jackson Hole the center of the flares held aloft, course down the slopes in figureuniverse for wildlife viewing. But the complex eight formation. Yellowstone/Teton region is home to an ecosysWESTERN DANCING tem’s worth of equally impressive smaller resiRestless legs? Work ‘em out with a two-step dents, including wolves, lynx, bald eagles, otters, mountain lions, bighorn sheep, creatures that or cowboy waltz at the Cowboy Bar on Thursday may be revealed only to a persistent few, or evenings between 7:30-9 p.m. The Cowboy and those smart enough to sign on to a tour with the Dancers’ Workshop Country Western Dance Teton Science School’s Wildlife Expeditions. Program sponsor free instruction to anyone Start here: or call showing up before the band hits the stage. 1-888-945-3567.

Photos by Henry H. Holdsworth (Elk Refuge); Wade McKoy (Torchlight Parade); Bob Woodall (Paragliding)

by Mike Calabrese

ICE SKATING Broomball league fanatics can take a turn for the better at the indoor rink housed in the Teton County Fairgrounds Arena, right next to where cowpokes test their mettle all summer. Teton County Parks and Recreation Department also maintains a rink at Owen Bircher Park in downtown Wilson. Both are local family favorites. For more info call 733-5056. Another indoor rink, this one at the Snow King Center, is open to the public for one-and-ahalf-hour sessions. Call 734-3000 for a complete rundown of hours and fees.

HOCKEY You’ll hear it soon enough: “Go Moose!� the battle cry for the Jackson Hole Moose, who play full-check hockey in the Elite Senior A division of the USA Hockey Association. Grab all the home action on Friday and Saturday nights at 7:30 p.m. in Snow King’s Ice Arena/Center. $8 for adults and $4 for children. Call 734-5300 or go online at

RECREATION CENTER Of course we have heated indoor-recreation outlets! Even the hardiest of locals come in from the cold every now and then. Located two blocks north of the town square on 155 East Gill, Jackson’s first-rate rec. center has a gymnasium with full-size basketball and volleyball courts, an aquatic center, locker rooms, and a public meeting room. The aquatic center consists of an eight-lane competitive-workout pool, a therapeutic pool, a leisure-water pool, a hot tub, a water slide, a teaching pool, and sauna and steam rooms. Open 6 a.m. to 8 p.m., Monday through Friday; from 12 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Saturday, and noon to 7 p.m., Sunday. For daily fees, call 739-5056. Go online at In case you haven’t noticed, our playground in winter boasts a lovely white wardrobe. The region is blessed with snow and lots to do out there, especially for those donning skinny skis, skate skis, or snowshoes.

Serving Jackson’s finest pizza since 1980 “Homemade�






or Deep Dish Crust


100% Real Cheese


Fresh Meats

Beer & Wine

and Vegetables

WE DELIVER! 733-3646 120 West Broadway • One Block West of the Town Square • Open Daily

Wine Shoppe over 1600 Different Wines

CabinsT 1&2

1&2 Bedrooms with/full baths & kitchens


Pizza & Pasta Restaurant Trading Post

Grocery & Gas X-Country Ski & Snow Shoe Rentals


Access to cross-country trails and Teton views

Gift Shop Spur Bar – Wi-Fi ATM

12 miles North of Jackson in Moose



Snake River Sleigh Rides

SNOWSHOEING Walk softly but carry a good camera, especially in mountain country! Grand Teton National Park offers ranger-led snowshoe hikes at 1:30 p.m. every day, from late December to March, weather and conditions permitting. A $5 donation is requested but snowshoes are provided. Park rangers touch briefly on the lore of snowshoeing and the winter adaptation of plants and animals in the park as trekkers cover the one-and-a-half miles along the river bottom in about two hours. Dress warmly, using the layer system, and wear warm footwear. For those who would prefer to wander around indoors instead of outdoors, the visitors’ center houses exhibits on the natural history of the park. The snowshoe outings leave from the stunning Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center at Moose, just north of the Jackson Hole Airport. No experience is necessary. Groups are limited to 20 adults and children over eight. Reservations are w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

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recommended. Call 739-3399 for more info. Better yet, visit the park’s site:

Snow King Rail Jam

SNOW KING RAIL JAM The Wednesday Night Lights Snow Jam Presented by Avalon 7, Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Club and Snow King Resort is a slopestyle and rail jam for skiers and snowboarders ages six and up. It takes place at 5:30 at the base of Snow King on February 23 and March 2, 9, and 16.


BOOKING AGENCY • The finest live music acts in the region • Jazz, Swing, Rock, Country, Solos, Duos, Trios & Big Band • Impeccable references Michael Calabrese • 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 E-mail:

Photos by Wade McKoy (Rail Jam); Bob Woodall (Cutter Races & Snowmobile Hill Climb).


these conditions. They’ll happily help launch novices and veterans alike over the valley in tanSave the river running for summer; hop an dem paragliding flights that lift off from the top of inner tube and run the King in winter. For prices, the resort’s Bridger Gondola. This breathtaking photos, and info go online at experience requires no athletic ability and the experienced pilots with Jackson Hole Paragliding or call 307-734-8823. can even help those a bit daunted by heights. The Snow King’s tube park is tons of fun, Mon.Fri. from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m., weekends from noon outfit offers flights from 10 sites in the area. Call 690-tram or visit jhtill 7 p.m. And if shopping and Very Tandem Paragliding time demands keep you off the slopes cool photos on the web during the day, try the King’s nightsite, too! skiing ticket: 20 bucks will get you on the hill from 4-7 p.m., Tuesday NORDIC CENTERS through Saturday. Jackson Hole ReGrand Targhee’s Tubing Park is just sort: Seventeen km of like the sledding of old, only better. groomed skating and Tubing at the Ghee is a blast—4 p.m. to classic lanes. This has to 7 p.m., Wed. through Sun. For rates, go be one of coolest setonline at tings in the world! Check out the resort’s huge menu of Breathtaking vistas in other activities, including sleigh-ride every direction. Alpine dinners, snowmobile tours, onsite icelift tickets are also valid climbing park, backcountry ski touring, for the Nordic Center. just to mention some. Lessons and rentals available for crossPARAGLIDING country, skate skiing, telemarking, and snowClear days and light winds in Jackson help set the stage for another equally astonishing view of shoeing. Guided nature tours into Grand Teton Jackson Hole: from a paraglider! And the experts National Park are available, as well as at Jackson Hole Paragliding take full advantage of overnighters and lunches at the OB Rock Springs

double h bar national elk refuge sleigh rides


Enjoy a piece of Western History while riding in a horse drawn sleigh

See Wildlife up close, surrounded by the scenic landscapes of Jackson Hole

Call Today! 307-733-0277 or 800-772-5386

Departs From Jackson Hole Visitor Center 532 N. Cache St.

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TETON COUNTY LIBRARY Need time to chill? Or maybe warm up? Teton County Library can easily lay claim to one of the valley’s best-known secrets: libraries are flat out sweet! And this one is second to none, from hightech to page-tech to service and setting. Check it out, like most locals do. Go online at and plug into Jackson Hole.

Jackson’s Great Breakfast & Lunch Serving All Day!


CUTTER RACES A Western version of horse-drawn chariot racing, the Shriners’ All-American Cutter Races always draws a huge festive crowd during President’s Day Weekend, this year February 19 and 20. Teams run two abreast in a 1/4-mile sprint to

Bakery & Restaurant roudly Br e eP


While you’re online, try this address: It’ll transport you to the Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum and the days of yore. Then pull-click on Photo Gallery for starters. Find the shot that Ken Burns dropped into his special on the history of this country’s national parks. We love this place!


Yurt. 739-2629 Teton County / Jackson Parks and Recreation Dept. is just about the best and busiest rec. outfit this side of the Mississippi. In addition to its rec. center, the department maintains seven crosscountry tracks, about 15 miles of both classic and skate, snow conditions permitting: 10 km in Cache Creek, 8 km in Game Creek, and shorter sections on the Snake River Levee (starting at Emily’s Pond), the Russ Garaman Trail, the Wilson Centennial School Trail, and the Melody Ranch Trail. To make tracks under the lights, drop by the trail between the valley’s middle school and Summit High School, illuminated nightly from 510 p.m. Novices can also sign up for skate-skiing instruction at this groomed site, just south of town and off the South Park Loop Road. For a trail map and more info visit the website: Dial up the activity hotline, 7396789, for track grooming schedules and ski conditions, or call 733-5056 for more information about skate-skiing instruction.


Open 7 Days a Week Breakfast & Lunch: 7am-3pm Coffee & Pastries: 3pm-7pm/6-ish 130 N. Cache 734-0075

CROSS-COUNTRY IN THE PARK Cross-Country Skiing in Yellowstone and Grand Teton National parks—Two of the nation’s most famous parks are true wonderlands under winter’s white mantle. The solitude and spectacle of landscape will leave indelible memories on those who venture out in it during winter. Snow coaches and snowmobiles transport lodge guests, skiers, snowshoers, and sightseers into Yellowstone. Online for more info: Grand Teton boasts 15 miles of stunning, groomed cross-country skiing from Taggart Lake trailhead to Signal Mt. and a skied-in track north along Cottonwood Creek. Trails and trail maps can be viewed and downloaded For info, call 739-3300. In Yellowstone, over 100 miles of skied-in cross-country track adorn the park. Concessioner-led or operated snowcoaches and snowmobiles access more remote parts. Information: 307-344-7381; Web:; roads: 307-344-2117.

ICE CLIMBING Christian Santelices and his company, Aerial Boundaries, offers ice-climbing classes at his new manmade ice flow, Teton Ice Park adjacent to Grand Targhee Resort. w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

World Championship Hill Climb

the finish at the polo grounds south of Jackson. Competitors are auctioned in a Calcutta wager before each heat, so high stakes and excitement mark this celebration. 733-3316, jackson

SNOWMOBILE HILLCLIMB World Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb—2011 marks the 36th year for the World Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb, held annually on Snow King’s challenging slopes. Starting from the bottom of the resort’s steepest ski run, contestants throttle their way straight up the mountain, trying to nail the speediest high-mark. Competitors come from all over the country to vie for “King/Queen of the Hill” in a four-day world-class event that benefits The Shriners’ Children’s Hospital in Salt Lake City and the Make-aWish Foundation of Wyoming. Slated for March 24 through March 27 this year. Call 734-9653 or go online at

For Over 30 Years



Extensive Wine List Full Bar Open 7 days a week Call 733-3553 Corner of King & Pearl 2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R



“I’m fifth-generation Montana pioneer,” she says. “I grew up camping and rockhounding. We were into the mountains, the beauty, the animals…and the stones.” She bought a lapidary saw for $90 in the 1970s and started cutting rocks in her dad’s garage. “Rocks that anyone can find, climbing or just wandering around, even by the side of road,” Elser recalls. “Cutting, inlaying, making stuff. I was inspired by Indian jewelry, which was becoming popular again in the ‘70s.” As with so many businesses in those days, family was key to success. “We struggled,” says Elser, “like any young business would in the beginning, trying to do everything ourselves, working long hours. We did have help from family members (Her mom, now 88, worked for 15 years for free) and through hard work and perseverance we made it to this point in time. We had a wonderful opportunity in 1985: the original developers of gaslight alley sold that development to the merchants in there at that time, so that secured our location and our future to have that location.”


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Photos: Wade McKoy

As a kid, Shelley Elser was a rockhound. Not entirely surprisingly, that love of stones led her to become a jeweler.

called trilobites,” says Harrison. “They are a great little item that we sometimes mix in with our jewelry. “We are currently working on a line we call Western Reflections, which features many of these different stones from the western U.S. in bracelets, pendants, and earrings.” Shelley and Dan nurtured their creative process at a number of places over the years. “We had both taken design courses at Utah State,” he notes, “and later we both went to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in Santa Monica, Shelley to hone the technical abilities she learned in college along with her degree in Fine Art, while I needed to come up to speed in that area.” At their Jackson shop in Gaslight Alley they started crafting stone inlays in a contemporary fashion. “After a few years we realized we were operating within only one design mode,” he says. “The GIA school helped us learn other technical skills to expand our designs into lost wax castings and setting faceted stones.” As they progressed and collaborated on designs, customers commissioned them on projects that would reflect the area. “Whether it was with elk ivory or things that might reflect the Tetons,” he says, “those requests initiated that avenue of jewelry design. We developed other contemporary Dan Harrison & Shelley Elser styles that have been successful for us over the And, says Dan Harrison, Elser’s business part- years, even now in these more challenging times.” As household budgets have tightened, craftsner for 35 years, their approach to the craft has men like Dan and Shelley have learned new ways evolved, but with an unusual result. “Ironically, we’ve come full circle,” he says. to be creative. “The challenge is to create jewelry at afford“Back to the very things that we were drawn to in the beginning. Back to our roots in styles of jew- able price points in a design realm that people will enjoy,” he observes. “Not everyone will be able to elry and types of stones.” Those stones, mined in the western United afford gold if it continues on its present course.” With a potential 80-toStates and reflective of the loone difference in gold and cale, are what vacationers seek. sterling silver, alternative “Customers come in the Dan and Shelley cremetals can be a good choice. door and ask, ‘What’s from ations feature items “The jewelry is just as here?’” says Harrison. pure, just as artistic, just as Consequently, their store’s from the west: jade, meaningful,” Elser points out. displays provide an array of “Especially if you know the items from ‘here.’ For example, elk ivory, picture artist who made it. That’s why Dan and Shelley creations feajasper, garnets, opals, I encourage people to supture jade and elk ivory from port their local jeweler, to put Wyoming. And, from just over sapphires and agates. their hard-earned dollars into the pass, the Gem State of something made by someone Idaho helps source picture jasper, an amazing petrified material. “It’s Mother they can connect with, who will stand behind it, Nature’s painting of the West,” says Harrison. “Al- whatever metal it is, and believe in the piece bemost the very environment that picture jasper is cause it has some meaning behind it.” That special connection between customer dug from, it reflects.” The shop also utilizes Idaho’s garnets and opal, and sapphires and agates from and creator flows both ways, too. “It’s great for any artist, whatever their Montana. Utah yields yet another regional material. medium may be, to be acknowledged by the gen“There are these cute little bugs from southern Utah, continued page 25 w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

From jewelry to whiskey, foodstuffs to beer, and all of it made in colorful locales like Jackson Hole, Pinedale, and Kirby.

IGNEOUS SKIS Blame it on the snowboarders. Adam Sherman, a skier tired of chasing snowboarders, solved the problem in 1993 by building a new kind of ski—longer, fatter, and burlier. Igneous ski company was born and Sherman’s ski tribe matched the mach-rate of their snowboarding buds. “Adam wanted to make skis that would hold up to the terrain and conditions in Jackson Hole,” says Mike Parris, who, along with his partner Mott Gatehouse, runs the ski company Sherman founded 17 years ago. “He wanted to hook up his buddies with their dream ski, as if they were pro riders.” Sherman began researching the ski manufacturing process, combing through engineering libraries and finding more info on building composite airplane wings than on building skis. Soon, though, he met a homespun snowboardmaker in Vermont, and together they built ten pairs that Sherman bestowed upon the Jackson Hole crew. “The first iterations were 214-cm women’s downhill boards,” says Parris, “with heavier construction: super-beefy edges, no metal sheets so they wouldn’t bend, and Kevlar base-protector layers.” The following year Sherman bought an old Rossignol ski press, set it up “in Gordo’s garage,” and built the second batch of Igneous skis in Jackson Hole. “We made them fatter, with more side cut,” says Parris, “but the press width maxed out at 120 cm. We wanted to make skis with a wider shovel, so the Rossi press became obsolete after its first year.” Sherman found the third and current ski press in a Colorado storage shed. It needed work, which is when Parris—an itinerate Igneous worker who passed through on climbing trips but spent winters in Europe due to the closed Jackson Hole ski area boundaries—came onboard full-time. “Adam showed up with the local newspaper,” says Parris, “‘Ski Area Boundary Opens,’ read the headline. I didn’t have to flee to Europe anymore.” He offered Parris a ski pass and a job. A Carnegie Mellon University graduate, Parris would be a valuable permanent member of Igneous, with knowledge in mechanical design and robotic systems fabrication—he once built a lunar rover prototype—and with a general knowledge of carpentry, welding, metal fabrication, and “hands-on making stuff.” “We were exhibiters at the SIA show in Vegas in 1997, ‘98, and ’99,” says Parris. “People kept w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

Mike Parris & Mott Gatehouse

asking why our skis were so fat. I think they were “He said he hoped I’d keep making skis,” says laughing at this bunch of kids from Wyoming. Parris, “and I happily took over the lease on the There hadn’t been a new ski company in 20 years shop.” and the fat-ski concept hadn’t caught on yet.” There’s another shift in the wind these days, Exhibiting at the ski show, though, secured Ig- too, which brings fresh excitement to the Igneous neous a spot in Powder magazine’s “Buyers Guide” crew. and soon they were selling 300 pairs of skis a “We’re getting orders for full-custom, concept year—for less than it cost to make them. prototypes,” says Parris. “For instance, a guy calls “The backers,” says Parris, “the people with from New Zealand with a very specific idea, a the influence, money, and boat-hull-shaped ski, and business advice said, ‘You are built it, and he loves it Sherman began research- we a ski company, you are meant so much that he orders to grow, to make more pairs ing the ski manufacturing another pair. We’re makevery year. At 500 or 1,000 ing a lot of completely process, combing pairs you will make money.’ new prototypes, full cus“There were six of us tom shapes and constructhrough engineering working over-time. We were tions, new and different working too hard, not paying libraries and finding concepts in styles of skis ourselves enough, and losing and snowboards.” other people’s money. We de- more info on building To get a pair of Igcided to chill out and rethink neous skis customers can composite airplane wings first come to the shop, sewhat we were doing.” They pulled the plug on than on building skis. lect a pair of demos, ski marketing, kept the factory, some different shapes, and kept making skis for and talk to the owners themselves. In 2001 they built only 25 pairs. about their dream ski. “We got back to the experimental nature of “It’s an interview,” says Parris. “Talk to us the product,” says Parris, “building a couple pro- about what you want to use the ski for, what totypes and fine-tuning our hand-eye coordina- kind of skier you are, what kind of line you take tion to make every pair close to perfect. I saw our down the hill, what kind of terrain you ride, how concept as the future of manufacturing, produc- fast you go, who you chase. We work with you to ing something in the United States, close to where design the ski and start making it after taking a it’s used, and custom tailoring it for each person.” deposit.” Today Igneous builds about 100 pairs of cusCustom construction of a standard shape tom skis a year. Their customers are psyched to takes from four to six weeks. To build a comhave skis that actually perform and ride the way pletely new shape or construction—a ski concept they want them to ride and that last for years. that’s never been made before—takes three A couple years ago Adam Sherman left the months, and has taken up to a year. Costs are from factory to Mike Parris in order to follow his new $1,200 to $1,800. calling as a firefighter in Baltimore. — Jackson Hole Skier 2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R




Obviously, owner Carolyn Hines has an eye for fine jewelry. She also knows talent when she sees it. Gary Smith joined the Hines Goldsmiths’ staff in 1993 to work the floor and sell jewelry, but Hines quickly recognized his potential as a jeweler. The popularity of Hines’s Teton Jewelry gave Smith another idea: to make pendants, rings, earrings, and other Teton pieces in-house, as well as Teton bangle bracelets, elk ivory jewelry, Wyoming Bucking Bronco jewelry and an array of charms. Hines explains that “Gary has an eye for detail, as well as a vision for creating new ideas. He is also extremely particular about how each piece is finished before it goes on the sales floor.” Says Smith, “I started working for Hines 17 years ago.” “When I realized I could shift my focus from sales to actually creating jewelry, I jumped at the opportunity. So I took extensive classes at The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)


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Photo Wade McKoy; Photo Courtesy Wyoming Whiskey

When Hines Goldsmiths debuted in 1970, some of the first items in display cases were from its original Teton Jewelry line. Forty years later, that trademark line has evolved into the store’s pride and joy.

Jewelry Academy, as well as piece I put them on a spruce tree—so many pieces the Revere Jewelry Academy can be cast at once—then put them in an investto learn the basic skills and ment plaster type of material and then start the techniques of making jew- burn-out process, which means putting them into elry. After that it was a lot of a 1300 degree oven for 12 hours. The next mornhands-on work, sitting ing, when the wax has been completely burned down and doing it.” out of the investment, I cast them, which means Making jewelry in the pouring molten gold or silver into the investment. image of the Tetons is partic- Then a quick quenching of the investment into ularly gratifying for Smith. cold water to break away the plaster,” he explains, “I’ve lived here 25 years,” he which yields the gold or silver trees of jewelry. says. “I love getting out in But the process is still not complete, Smith the mountains. I’ve climbed points out. “Then come the hours of hand finthe Tetons several times, so it ishing; sawing the pieces off of the trees, filing, is inspiring to sit down and sanding, soldering and several steps of polishing, work on this jewelry.” and some pieces get diamonds or sapphires set “Gary and I work to- in them.” gether on our designs,” says The most gratifying event, though, unfolds as Hines. “It starts with some a piece is purchased. “People love the jewelry and basic concepts. The best I get a lot of comments,” says Smith. “I had a lady ideas always come from our come in today who wanted to meet me, the percustomers. We give them son who made her ring. That doesn’t happen very what they ask for and it often, but it’s kind of neat.” evolves from there.” He also enjoys hammering and forging gold The Teton Jewelry de- and silver into Teton Bangle Bracelets—again a signs have evolved over the Hines Goldsmiths original. Hines owns the first years, but five years ago the three, made back in 1970. “I got so many comtwo decided to put a lot of ments and compliments on them that they betime and money into per- came another one of our signature pieces,” she fecting them. “We changed says. “We call them Teton Bangles because they the designs to make them have hills and valleys like the Tetons. Because my more true to life,” says Hines, clients have large collections of the bangles, a “We put river rocks in the few years ago Gary decided to start adding gemGary Smith Snake River, we have added stones to add a little variety to their collection.” a ‘raised mountain’ version One of the most unique jewelry items, that beautifully highlights the mountains, and then though, employs a material harkening back to anwe have our ‘textured mountain’ versions that cient times: elk ivories. North American elk have have the crevasses, nooks, and crannies that the two eye teeth made of ivory—the only native anTetons have. Our newest version has the Tetons imals so blessed. Although sought for their compave’ set with Diamonds. Our mercial value, elk ivories also customers have a hard time hold spiritual significance for deciding which one they want I love getting out in the some Native American tribes. to take home since they are all “I buy ivories from a mountains. I’ve climbed number so beautifully made and the of local people, as well styles are so diverse.” as hunters”, says Smith, “but I the Tetons several The Teton jewelry comes am extremely particular about in a variety of rings, pendants, times, so it is inspiring the size and shape–as well as earrings, and bracelets, as well the coloring. Every ivory is to sit down and work as a men’s line of cufflinks, belt different; some are high and buckles, money clips. “Any- on this jewelry. rounded, others are worn thing the customer wants,” down, and the older the anisays Hines. “If the customer mal the more color the ivory requests it we will try to make it.” will have. Occasionally you will even see cavities!” “We also make the bucking bronco in-house “I love Gary’s unique elk ivory settings,” says as well, in pendants and earrings.” she adds. “It’s Hines. “He doesn’t make straight bezels, he makes fashioned after the famous Cowboy Joe and his the bezel setting a beautiful curving shape acbucking horse Steamboat. The pieces come in two centing the ivory.” sizes and are also made with pave’ diamonds. She adds, “Again, about anything the cusSmith crafts the jewelry upstairs above the re- tomer asks for,” Hines Goldsmith’s can create. tail shop on the Jackson Town Square. “There are “We’ve even made a set of tuxedo studs with approximately ten to fourteen steps involved in matching cufflinks!” each piece of jewelry,” he says. “I use the ‘lost wax’ casting process; once the waxes are made of each — Jackson Hole Skier w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m


WYOMING WHISKEY did the Meads. “That’s for you to figure out,” Brad told Defazio. And he has. Defazio and Mead spent time in Kentucky, the center of the universe for Bourbon whiskey. Time down south yielded insight into the elaborate needs for crafting whiskey, the equipment needed to distill it, and perhaps the most critical component, the need for a master distiller. Someone who really did know something about turning water into whiskey. “We knew finding the right distiller was the keystone to the project,” Defazio says. “We looked locally (in the Jackson region) but couldn’t find anybody to fit the bill. I brought the search to Kentucky. While researching the source for copper distilling equipment at Vendome Copper and Brass Works in Louisville, Defazio struck gold. A schoolmate of his said, “I’ve got your guy.” And he did. Master distiller Steve McNally, a member of the KenSteve McNally tucky Bourbon Hall of Fame, Talk of whiskey in Wyoming often had worked for Maker’s Mark Whiskey for 33 centers around nostalgic images. years. Recently retired from the company and Cowpokes pulling on a flask spirited bored with driving a grain truck as a post-retirement outlet, McNally was ready to get back into from a saddlebag as they end the day the distilling end of things. around a campfire under a star-studHe’s at the helm now at the distilling operaded sky. Or stepping up to a bar in some tions in Kirby, Wyoming. The plant couldn’t get smoke-filled saloon after a long day herding more homegrown: it sits on land owned by the Meads, who run cattle in the strays, mending fence, or area during the winter. The keeping one’s wits out on the The main ingredients – main ingredients – corn, vast, lonely range. wheat, and malted barley – Not for long, though. are harvested in Wyoming. Whiskey, Bourbon whiskey, corn, wheat, and And the soul of whiskey, may soon mark Wyoming malted barley – are oddly, the water, is drawn perhaps as notably as that from an artesian well near cowboy on the buckin’ bronc harvested in Wyoming. Manderson, Wyoming. that capture’s the state’s “Let ‘er “It’s the nectar that every buck!” spirit. Wyoming Whiskey, the state’s newest spirit, is distiller wants,” says Defazio of the pure water that as homegrown as it gets. The idea bubbled up a fine whiskey must be born from. So critical is this artesian water from few years ago in Jackson Hole. Ranchers Brad and Kate Mead chatted up the idea for a new venture Wyoming’s Bighorn Mountains, that “we’re buying it in bulk from Manderson. We’ve got a 6,000with friend Dave Defazio. “We exchanged Bourbons for Christmas,” says gallon tanker that we run up there twice a week” Defazio, who had practiced law with the Meads. and then haul it back to the Kirby plant. “It comes “Brad and Kate wanted to try something new, be- from a limestone layer a mile beneath the surface. sides ranching, and thought making whiskey The actual limestone nature helps in the chemical process” of distilling whiskey. would fit the bill.” But don’t go looking to sip this nectar just yet. Defazio, familiar with the salutary aspects of whiskey, knew nothing of its production. Neither continued page 25 w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

since 1970


O n t h e To w n S q u a r e 80 Center Stre et Jack son Hole, W yoming 3 07. 7 33 . 559 9 w w w. h i n e s g o l d . c o m

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Buenning’s early childhood memories of traipsing though Pabst and Miller breweries, cavernous buildings replete with sparkling stainless steel tanks, stuck with him and permeated his psyche. A biology major at Colorado University in Boulder, he started home brewing at age 19— there’s no age restriction for buying beer’s non-alcoholic ingredients. “I was going to the home-brew shop so much that I finally got a job there,” he says. “Half my paychecks went into ingredients.” With six beer-drinking housemates, the constant demand for it allowed him to experiment with styles. “I was brewing twice a week for a few years,” he says. Through contacts at the home-brew shop where he worked, he secured a brewing job at Tommyknocker Brewery in Idaho Springs, Colorado, near Denver.


J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R 2 0 1 1

Wade McKoy photos

Snake River Brewing’s Brew Master Cory Buenning grew up amidst the celebrated beer culture of Milwaukee, Wisconsin. “All my family are beer drinkers,” he says. “Whenever the aunts and uncles came to visit, my parents would treat them to a brewery tour.”

“The head brewer, my doing it for a long time,” he says. “There are reaboss, knew I loved skiing sons that their styles stuck.” and fishing,” says Buenning, One particular favorite of Buenning’s, a beer “so when an assistant- he tries to emulate with his Rolling Thunder brewer job in Jackson Hole Dortmunder, is the German beer Augustiner came around, he recom- Edelstoff. mended me. I was hired in “I drank liters and liters of it the couple times 1997.” I’ve been to Germany,” he says. “I talked to the loBuenning’s boss at the cals there, and they all agree it’s the best beer made Snake River Brewing Com- in Munich. It’s not quite as hoppy as the Aupany, brew master Chris Er- gustiner Pils, but a little drier and more hoppy ickson, became head of than the Augustiner Helles. It’s a really well-balbrewing operations a few anced beer and one that I try and emulate, alyears ago and Buenning though without the sulfery taste that’s acceptable took over as head brewer. in Germany but American pallettes are not super Since opening in 1994, keen on.” the small company has garSnake River also brews some American styles nered 29 medals at the Great that were developed in the late 1980s and have American Beer Festival held only recently gained notoriety. “American Pale Ale annually in Denver. At the and American IP,” says Buenning, “are real hoppy 2010 festival last September, beers developed 15 or 20 years ago and have bedespite being up against come popular in the last five years or so.” 3,523 beers entered by 516 Award-winning beer comes from high-grade breweries from 50 states, the ingredients. Of the four ingredients needed to Jackson establishment make beer—malted barley, hops, yeast, and trucked home four medals. water—most of Snake River Brewery’s are locally “That’s the most we’ve sourced. won,” Buenning says. “It was “As you drive through Swan Valley,” (about an awesome. The first beer we hour south of Jackson Hole) says Buenning, “all had entered, Le Serpent those rolling fields of grain are barley, irrigated by Cerise, won a gold.” the Snake River.” Although they’re The hops come from Yakima Valley, Washdubbed festivals, the compe- ington. “The hops crop is small,” he says, “but the Cory Buenning titions are stressful for the harvesting equipment is big, so there are regional brewers. “You bring your best growing centers.” beers, but they don’t always The yeast is a living organwin,” he says. “And you see a We yield about 900 ism. “We get a culture sent in lot of good breweries—who once a month or so and we reuse you know make good beer— gallons per batch. the yeast from one batch to the not winning medals. So when And all that gets next to the next,” Buenning they announce a category that notes, “so, essentially, we grow you have a beer entered in, and drunk. By somebody. our own yeast. It’s an ingredient, you win, it takes the stress off.” but it’s not in the beer when you Snake River Brewing From the tap, a keg, drink it. We filter it out.” holds 40 different recipes for or bottles. And then there’s the water, beer and maintains eight beers to which Buenning largely aton tap at any one time. tributes the Jackson-based “We try to have something for everybody,” brewery’s success. “We are blessed with really says Buenning. “We could probably get away with good water. It’s clean. There’s nothing above us exfewer, but it’s fun for the brewers, and the cus- cept Yellowstone and the Teton Wilderness.” tomers appreciate it, too. A lot of them don’t want It takes about two weeks to brew an ale and to drink the same beer every single day. So we try six weeks to brew a lager. to spread it out, have something really light, some“We yield about 900 gallons per batch,” says thing pretty hoppy, like Pako’s Eye-P-A, then an Buenning, “And all that gets drunk. By somebody. amber-colored or darker beer. It’s seasonal, too, From the tap, a keg, or bottles.” skewed more toward the lighter beers in summer Ideally, it’s from the serving tank, tapped at and darker beers in winter.” the Snake River Brewing Company and RestauThe brewers at Snake River tend to stick with rant in Jackson, Wyoming. traditional styles, beers that have been made for “It’s the freshest straight out of the serving hundreds of years. Buenning says they don’t in- tank,” he notes. vent styles, but recreate the classics while their And Cory Buenning should know. He enjoys own Wyoming twists. sipping his beer as much as he likes brewing it. “The Germans, the Belgians, they’ve been — Jackson Hole Skier w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m



AwardWinning Brews & Incredible Food!

265 S. MILLWARD ST. 307.739 .BEE R (2337) FOOD SERVED 11:30am - 11:00pm HAPPY HOURS 4:00pm - 6:00 pm DAILY SPECIALS!

Brad Mead, riding fences.

“Buy local!” The new mantra of has ties to raising cattle reaching back to the turn small businesses looking to boost the of the century. “My husband’s family has been in the cattle bottom line in the current soft econ- ranching business more than a hundred years,” omy and position themselves for any Mead notes. Husband and business partner Brad Mead’s great-grandfather “homesteaded in the uptick in commerce. Jackson has seen its share of locally crafted, valley in the late 1800s at the first Crystal Springs manufactured, and designed wares on sale, both Ranch, at the bottom of Teton Village.” But ranching in Jackson Hole was and conin- and outside the valley. From clothing to sporttinues to be a challenge. Over the years, most ing equipment to beer. But beef? The only local beef bought for many Jackson Hole cattle were shipped off to larger and larger beef distributors for maryears around here came not from nearby cattle ranches, but The family enterprise ket wholesale or butchering. Now, though, the Mead mostly from devoted 4-H Ranch is holding back a growyouths who had raised their has ties to raising ing number of its more than prized stock for yearly competicattle reaching 300 animals for butchering and tions at the county fair. sale, mostly in local restaurants, No anymore. Mead Ranch back to the turn among them the Mangy Natural Beef has helped move Moose, Calico, the Wort, Ostethat local beef from the county of the century. ria, the Bistro, Snake River fair booths and into the valley’s Grill, Ignite, 43 North, and Pearl Street Meat and notable business arena. Kate Mead, a managing partner in the enter- Fish Company. The local—and national—move toward loprise, notes that their natural beef is taking its place right along side organic, locally grown pro- cally grown foods is evident at Jackson’s farmers’ duce at Jackson farmers’ markets, in a growing markets celebrated weekly during the summer. plateful of local restaurants, and in at least one re- Mead Ranch Natural Beef has taken its place alongside a growing menu of organic produce tail meat shop. “Because we have such a good local restaurant now snapped up by visitors and locals alike at business,” she says, the move to provide natural those markets. Customers can also order a half-beef beef to the valley eating establishments made sense. Mead Ranch beef, antibiotic- and steroid- butchered to their liking, she says. Mead Ranch beef, while natural, is not orfree, appeals to consumers who are already payganic. “Natural beef is not organic. You have to ing more and more attention to healthful food. Despite today’s challenges of ranching in a cli- have your fields declared organic,” Mead says. mate of agri-corporations and mega-feedlots, the Grass on Mead Ranch grazing lands is, nonetheMead Ranch is hanging on to a colorful history less, “luscious,” she notes. Moreover, the ranch hasn’t used “pesticides or while at the same time creating it. Indeed the move to sell locally raised natural fertilizers in thirty years,” she continues. Of little note to some consumers, but perhaps beef to and out of valley businesses seems, well, natural for the Mead Ranch. The family enterprise continued page 25 w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

All natural Jackson Hole beef raised on conservation land and finished with spent grains. Our beef are steroid and antibiotic free and are always humanely treated by gentle cowboys. Mead Beef is dry-aged for 21 days for the most succulent steaks and bodacious burgers.

For more than 100 years, in the shadows of the Tetons, the Hansen/Mead Family has raised the highest quality beef available. Available at the Jackson Hole Farmers Market and at these fine Jackson Restaurants & Grocers: Pearl Street Meat and Fish Co. • Snake River Grill Rendezvous Bistro • Q Roadhouse Il Villaggio Osteria • 43 North • Mangy Moose The Calico • Ignite • The Wort Hotel

Jackson Hole Natural Beef, LLC Jackson, Wyoming • 307.734.3911

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JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT raised buffalo and elk. The buffalo ranches are in eastern Wyoming and South Dakota, the elk ranches in Idaho and other nearby states. “It’s not legal to raise elk in Wyoming because of the abundant wild herds,” says Marino. “We bring in the raw materials, and, using our processing plant, we cut them into rib eyes and New York Strips,” he says. “On Tuesdays and It’s in the energy formulation, he explains. Fridays we make fresh ground burger from our “We use pharmaceutical-grade white ginseng,” all-natural buffalo and elk. We vacuum-pack it, Marino says. “It’s very difficult to get, label it, and put it on the shelves. not an over-the-counter product.” We could easily vacuum-pack a The Wild Times Buffalo Jerky, The meat comes couple thousand pounds a day with its special energy-boosting from all-natural with our machinery. We do the formula of white ginseng and vitasame processing for hunters and min B12, sounds like an essential ranch-raised fisherman.” element for the backpack. Marino’s proud to tick off his Made from all-natural free- buffalo and elk. products. “We make salami, range buffalo, the meat is sliced smoked roast, burger, steaks, and spiced with the special energy formula and prime rib—every cut of meat you have in cattle, other secret spices. It cures in the cooler for two we do with elk and buffalo,” he says. “It’s onedays; then goes into the smoker, where it is hundred percent naturally raised. No antibiracked, cooked, and dried. otics, steroids, or growth hormones are ever “Each batch is individually tested for quality,” used. One nice thing about buffalo and elk: they says Marino. “That’s the most fun part.” are a more eco-friendly species. They don’t The factory, located in the back of the store, graze to the ground, they roam.” gets lots of attention from the bureaucrats, as Buffalo and elk meat, Marino notes, progame meat should. “We are fully inspected by the mote the natural, healthy, made-in-Jackson Wyoming Department of Agriculture, the U.S. Hole idea and lifestyle. Dept of Agriculture, and the FDA,” he says. — Jackson Hole Skier The meat comes from all-natural ranch-

Wade McKoy photo

“We created our Wild Times Buffalo jerky for skiers, hikers, climbers, bikers, any outdoorsman, really,” says Dan Marino, owner of Jackson Hole Buffalo Meat. “It’ll keep you awake.”

Dan Marino


Photo Courtesy Pinedale Roundup

apologetically proud of beer is born in a mash of yeast, top-grade hops, the enterprise’s water’s barley malt (some of their ingredients are imported source: a glacier-fed from the U.K. and Germany, countries that know a lake perched near what bit about beer), and of course water. Another eleis perhaps Wyoming’s ment affecting a beer’s quality, though, might starmost prized wilder- tle even beer connoisseurs: its containers. For many ness, the Wind micro-brewed River Range. beers, the last stop “We had the The water’s source? before a consumer’s water tested by inenjoyment of it is a dependent labs a A glacier-fed lake glass bottle, albeit few times,” he generally an artfully perched near what decorated says, “and one of one. But the responses we is perhaps not for the newest got back was, release of Wind ‘This is the purest Wyoming’s most River’s Blonde Ales. Brewmasters Richie Strom and Eric Berg water we’ve ever Despite their prized wilderness, Water’s a big deal out here in the tested, more than the distilled water we use salutary effect on most forms of life, the Wind River west. Prized for its purity, mountain in our labs.’” And, as one might expect, water “has a lot both oxygen and country aqua is wrangled over for to do with beer quality, so that is like gold for Range. sunlight can depossession, coveted as a source for us,” Mottashed adds. grade a brew’s flavor irrigation, recreation, and drinking. It must be. The small craft brewery’s Blond over time. Glass bottles can’t fully ward off either And although not yet worth its weight in gold, Ale has already picked up a vat of awards. Among threat. But cans seal and keep both out. So, as with western water is perhaps more important than them, a 2006 Silver Medal at the Great American a growing number of craft breweries, Wind River anything else that shapes the notable beers of a Beer Festival in Denver, the 2008 Peoples Choice Brewing has made the move from bottling to cansmall craft brewery like Wind River Brewing 1st Place spot at the Powell Plunge Beer Festival, ning. Since July 2010, its16 oz. containers and their Company. and a 2009 and 2010 Peoples Choice 1st Place at 4-can packaging are completely recyclable. Greg Mottashed, general manager of the Wyoming’s Lander Beer Festivals. “The freshest (beer) is right out of the tank,” Pinedale-based brewery and restaurant, is unUnsurprisingly, Wind River Brewing’s craft continued next page


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MADE IN WYOMING MADE IN WYOMING MADE IN WYOMING MA DANSHELLEY JEWELERIS eral public in some way that allows them to continue with something they love,” Harrison says. “That’s a big thing, whether you are an oil painter, a sculptor, or a jeweler.” Supporting local artists is good business and makes economic sense. “The economy challenges us to come up with new and creative ideas, so that people can afford a memento of their vacation in the West,” he says. “That’s very important to us, to try and create something that someone could take home and really love it and won’t have to spend over a hundred dollars.” And that desire has prompted Dan and Shelley to seek new materials, materials that have, in turn, created excitement for them as jewelers. “It’s a bit of a full circle concept in a way,” says


Harrison, “Fossils and gemstones have been around forever, but new finds are being unearthed. We enjoy bringing these new discoveries to the public in the form of jewelry. We don’t always have to come up with a new idea; we can be inspired by the stones a miner has found, which may be available for one or two years and may disappear after that. That’s the exciting part.” “And having an eye for perfection in an imperfect world,” adds Elser. “That was our first motto: ‘A passion for perfection in an imperfect world.’ Taking the craft to a higher level.” “Inspiration is all around us,” says Harrison, “especially here in Jackson Hole. Everybody, everyday, is still awestruck with the beauty and grandeur of the area. That’s what drew us all here.”

It’s Coming Soon

— Jackson Hole Skier

ing, ‘Can I buy anything made in Wyoming?’ Well, we can now tell them, ‘Wait a few years, and we’ll have some whiskey for you.’” The enterprise is really going out of its way to keep the product homegrown. “We’re using a Jackson based T-shirt company, catering companies, folks in Thermopolis. Teton Heritage Landscaping (another Jackson-based outfit) is over there” embellishing the plant’s grounds. “Our intent is to use as many Wyoming-based products as possible in the enterprise. Even printing. We’re going to try and buy as many American-made products as we can.” — Mike Calabrese

from page 23

not unnoticed by the stock itself, is the humane treatment and butchering of the beef. That can’t be said for processing at large agri-business lots. Consumers can’t help but notice natural beef ’s savory aspects, though. “Our beef is extremely flavorful, in part also because it is dry-aged for twenty-one days before being butchered into different cuts.” The Meads have sought to keep much of the components of the natural beef production local, and in some surprising ways. The grain for what’s called “finishing,” the

feeding of cattle just before they’re shipped off for butchering, is supplied from Snake River Brewing here in Jackson. The processing of the cuts is handled in nearby Tetonia, and the cattle winter on another Mead ranch in Kirby, Wyoming. And, of course, the half-dozen folks tending those cattle are locals. Not surprisingly, the Meads’ goal is to “make it economical to continue in the cattle business,” she says. “It would be great if we could set up a cooperative among local ranchers. It would be great if we could do it all around here.” — Mike Calabrese

WIND RIVER BREWING COMPANY Mottashed notes, “but canning is a new trend in the craft brew industry.” Hundreds of small craft breweries have shifted to cans. But Wind River Brewery is the first in Wyoming to can its beer. Aside from their airtight seal, he notes, “cans are much more transportable than bottles when you want to enjoy a quality brew during your time out in the wild.” The brewery plans to can some of its other dozen or so award-winning ales. But at the moment, just keeping up with the demand at its own full-menu restaurant and bar sales is challenge w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

There’s only one thing tougher than skiing Wyoming terrain: waiting on the whiskey.

from page 21

Time in the cask is no less important to the crafting of whiskey than the ingredients themselves. “We want to release it when it’s ready—and not before. We want this to be something the entire state can be proud of.” The company, notes Defazio, is shooting for a release of the amber spirit in the fall of 2011, “but more likely it will be 2012.” Plans are to release the whiskey first within the boundaries of the state. And, judging by the list of the project’s partners, the interest in Wyoming Whiskey already has folks licking their lips. Defazio points out what many Jackson business folks can attest to. “Tourists are always ask-


from page 18

from page 24

enough. This despite having recently tripled the plant’s brewing capacity. Mottashed puts his small craft brewery’s size in perspective. “Budweiser brewery will spill more beer in a day than (Wind River) can brew in a day. The prize-winning Wind River Ale is already sold in stores throughout the state, but “the immediate goal for the brewery is to be able to readily supply all of Wyoming with more than one offering before entering other markets,” Mottashed says. “Ultimately, the goal is to supply the entire region and beyond.” — Mike Calabrese

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Jackson Hole Mountain Resort The Big One. The Gentle Giant. For 44

RENNY BURKE, a Jackson Hole skier since 1966, came to work for Pepi Stiegler’s ski school in 1971 and once taught Prince Bandar of Saudi Arabia. Favorite Old Thing: Getting five days of good powder out of one big storm. Used to be when the sun came out on a powder day, a lot of people wouldn’t ski anymore. The skiing was still good, but it was not good for everyone—it got heavy due to our southern exposure, and wide skis hadn’t been invented yet. And the old tram didn’t put as many people on the hill. We’d be sitting in the restaurant at the top and the tram conductor would come in and tell us to get going. There were so few people here that nobody was loading the tram! Favorite New Thing: The gondola. We have virtually no 26

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Photo: Wade McKoy

years the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has inspired these poetic monikers by stirring the souls of skiers and snowboarders worldwide. Buildings and lifts have come and gone, but the mountain itself remains much the same as when founder Paul McCollister envisioned an American resort to equal Europe’s alpine Mecca’s. The human face of the resort has also changed little. And that’s a good thing, too. “There is very little turnover in employees,” says Anna Olson, JHMR Brand Director and a Jackson Hole skier since 1997. “People here love what they do. There’s a lot of camaraderie. Everyone depends on one another.” We asked the most senior of those employees for their favorite new and old things about the resort, and for an insider’s ski tip. To include the younger staff, we also asked the resort’s team of sponsored ski and snowboard athletes. As you might expect, many answers are similar, but each has its own unique twist. Like Anna Olson’s ski tip: “Don’t worry if it makes you cry. No matter how challenging the weather or the slope, you can always find a run that is fun for you.” So, meet some of the longtime employees of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

The song remains the same

The iconic Cody Peak towers over skiers Crystal Wright and Hannah Horigan.

Skiing off cliffs, a favorite of TGR athletes Julian Carr (above) and Rachel Burkes (below).

wind-closure days, which used to be a disaster for everybody, especially the ticket office. Ski Tip: Relax, take a deep breath, and enjoy skiing like it almost isn’t anymore. Beautiful terrain, not too many people, great instructors, and great local skiers to watch.

KURT WILLARD, also born and raised in Jackson Hole and a skier of nearly 50 years, worked as a Thunder lifty, on winter trail crew, and as a snowgrooming operator and heavy-equipment operator in summer. Favorite old thing: One memory always sticks, and it’s something we can’t do anymore because those first tracks are saved for the customers. We’d take a quick run before our work duties, hit Corbet’s to The Cirque, get a really awesome powder run in. Favorite new thing: Our grooming fleet is awesome. Grooming machines have come a long way and are nice pieces of equipment to run. And that new w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

Photos: Wade McKoy

EARL SHANE WARD, born in Jackson Hole and a skier since first grade in 1963, has worked at the resort since 1974, including a stint in lift mechanics as “a tower monkey” while still in high school. He started grooming and running snow cats in ’77. He now manages the department, and is a “dirt squirter” in the summer. Favorite new thing: Probably the gondola. It gets you up on the mountain a little faster, and you have different directions to go from there, to Thunder, Casper. Favorite old thing: Being out on the mountain in the middle of the night in my snow cat with the grooming crew. Some of the conditions can be kind of challenging if it’s snowin’ and blowin’, grooming something steep. You can start sliding. Ski tip: Get out early and look for cowboy powder. When people complain that nothing is groomed after we’ve been grooming all night in a snowstorm, it’s because they slept late and missed the cowboy powder—the new snow covering our groomed runs.

tram is quite a machine, too. All of us that helped build it and tear down the old one, the nostalgia involved, that’s right up there. Ski tip: Get up early and pick your line wisely.

MELISSA MALM, a Jackson Hole skier since 1974, worked as a first aid responder, a ski patroller, a first aid administrator, and now is on “rent-a-troll” and the auxiliary patrol. Favorite new thing: The tram! Who could say anything else? Favorite old thing: The Jackson Hole ski community. Strong, vibrant, and all-age inclusive, from the “older” generation still psyched on skiing, to the next generation of valley-grown kids learning every rock and crag on the mountain, to the newbies who think they’re the ski gods’ gift to mankind, to the employees who keep coming back year after year. We all have that common and crazy passion for skiing! Ski tip: If you are new to the area, hire a guide. You will not be disappointed with the amazing skiing they show you, out-of-bounds or inbounds. Also…real skiers don’t wear cowboy hats while skiing. HERB BROOKS, a Jackson Hole skier and Ski Corp employee since 1974, started in Public Works, including operations at “the poopsy plant,” was on the race crew for 23 years and initiated Nastar’s Stretch Pants Of The Day award, and is now Mountain Facilities Manager. “I remember hiking to Cody Bowl in late May with a car battery in my backpack, timing races for Pepi Stiegler’s spring race camps,” he says. Favorite new thing: The Bridger Gondola. It opened up new terrain, new areas, and a whole different point of view of skiing Jackson Hole. Favorite old thing: I miss watching Captain Video ski around in his cape. That guy was way ahead of his time. We used to go watch his videos at the Mangy Moose all the time. Ski tip: Ski early and have lunch at the Couloir.

Photos: Bob Woodall

LARRY DETRICK, a Jackson Hole skier since 1972 and a ski patrolman since 1974. Favorite new thing: Probably the gondola. It

Warm, wet snow, great for skiing on fattys. Skier: Rick Armstrong, The Cirque Below, Charlotte Moats carves race-honed GS turns on Gros Ventres corduroy, fresh groomed.

If you are new to the area, hire a guide. You will not be disappointed with the amazing skiing they show you, out-of-bounds or inbounds. Also…real skiers don’t wear cowboy hats while skiing. — MELISSA MALM

opens up the middle of the mountain, opens up the Headwall and the Crags. But for sure, the-outof-bounds. It makes the ski area at least five times bigger and takes the pressure off the inbounds. Favorite old thing: Upper and Lower Sublette Ridge before Sublette chair lift existed. That used to be my favorite run. Ski tip: Start skiing at 9:00.

MARGO KRISJANSONS, a Jackson Hole skier since 1973, started as a ski host and became a ski patroller in 1974. Favorite new thing: New tram Favorite old thing: Herb Brooks Ski tip: Skier’s never feel crowded due to the vastness of the mountains. The views aren’t too bad either!

RICH LEE, a Jackson Hole skier since 1976, worked as a ski instructor, a supervisor, ran the Pepi Stiegler Ski and Race Camps for 20 years, and helped Doug Coombs start the Steep and Deep Camps in 1995. Favorite new thing: I like going up the early Gondi with clients and relaxing while waiting for the mountain to open, enjoying a tea or coffee and visiting in that pleasant setting before an early morning run with clients. When the mountain opens, my classic powder morning starts with an untracked run down to Thunder, first tracks in Laramie to Sublette lift, first tracks in the Expert Chutes back to Thunder, ski Grand back to Sublette lift, then finish with Cheyenne Bowl and a lower face. I love that. Favorite old thing: I have two. The first is the 8:30 tram, going up with my ski school buddies and getting one run before work. The sec2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R


Photos by Wade McKoy Shroder Baker practicing what he preaches: “If you want any chance of getting the pow, one must get up super early. Locals crush it here... Fast!”

in the first-aid room, and is a ski patrolman. Favorite new thing: I love the Gondola. You’re out of the weather—and seated. There’s no line. When I worked in Europe, I loved the gondolas there and I always thought they were the best lifts. The tram is great but you gotta stand in line and stand on the tram. Favorite old thing: Jerry Balint (ski patroller). You know Jerry. He’s priceless. I get more laughs out of that guy, sometimes at my own expense.

PAUL MANGOLD, a Jackson Hole skier since 1979, worked as a tram conductor, in tram maintenance, and is now in vehicle maintenance. Favorite new thing: The gondola is not real new, but I love that lift. It gets you uphill very

quickly, high on the mountain, with no waiting in line. You can lap it, top to bottom, and get lots of vert’. On a powder morning you can go to lots of different stashes. There are plenty of opportunities for a variety of great skiing from the gondola. Favorite old thing: I miss knowing everybody on the hill. There is much positive about the new days, but back in 1979 I knew everybody, and I miss that. Ski tip: Try the Couloir. It’s fantastic. And I’m not talking about skiing Corbet’s.

LARRY RIESER, a Jackson Hole skier since1975, a ski host from 1975 to 1981 (supervisor last 3 years), and a ski instructor since 1982. Favorite new thing: The new tram. The

Each spring the Jackson Hole Resort throws a party with fireworks and a free rock concert under the stars. The 6th Annual Mountain Festival takes place on March 26, 27, and 28, 2011, and features ski racing events, live music daily, and the legendary Pole Pedal Paddle race and awards ceremony.

ond is, they used to farm the corn, close the outof-bounds early so it doesn’t get rutted, keep it smooth for the next morning’s corn run. Ski tip: The deeper the snow, the fatter the ski. Fat skis make the mountain ski well for the average skier.

TERRY SCHRAMM, a Jackson Hole skier since 1977, started plowing snow in the parking lot, then was a ski host, went back to plowing snow and started grooming snow on the mountain, and settled in with the ski patrol 25 years ago. “You know how much money I’ve spent skiing in my entire life?” says Schrammbo. “$32! At Snowbird, an employee-swap deal, $16/day.” Favorite new thing: The tram! Why? Just the fact that it’s there. Those two years without it was brutal. Had to ride around the horn to do snow

“Ski tip: The deeper the snow, the fatter the ski. Fat skis make the mountain ski well for the average skier.”


control, my cheeks still burn. I think it was zero every day, with 40-mph winds. But also one of the best things they ever did was build the restaurant at the top of the gondola. That’s a real attribute for the ski area. Favorite old thing: The patrol shack at the top of Casper. I hope that stays there for historical reasons. The Casper chair lift, though, is not one of my favorites. But the skiing from that lift is good. Ski tip: Come the last week of January or the first week of February. Those two weeks are after the cold weather and before the crowds get here, and usually we have a good coverage of snow by then.

JOHN CARR, a Jackson Hole skier since 1970, bussed and waited tables at the Alpenhof, worked w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R


prove the experience. And be prepared with personal conditioning. Get in shape for the beginning of the season, or the beginning of your vacation, to avoid injury and to meet your goals.

SUSAN HEDDEN, a Jackson Hole skier since 1979, a supervisor for ten years, with 40 years teaching experience. Favorite new thing: Well, it would have to be the tram. It’s an incredible thing, a great way to get people up the mountain. Favorite old thing: The reason I stayed—I came out here for one year—is all the great terrain. It’s a great playground. You never get bored here.

“The new tram and the gondola have changed the traffic patterns and increased the vertical at the resort, providing the opportunity to ski till you drop, or as long as your legs last.”


Ski tip: Without a doubt, ski with a pro, an instructor or a guide. It helps people know where to ski to find the best snow—this mountain has both good snow and challenging snow—and will help improve their technique so they can enjoy some more advanced runs.

JEFF ZELL, a Jackson Hole skier since 1977, worked for ski school and race crew on his way to becoming an alpine guide, with stints on Targhee’s race crew and Snow King’s ski patrol. Favorite new thing: Probably the tram, the max vert’. It’s so fast, and it keeps the other lift lines smaller. Favorite old thing: Untracked powder. Closed gates. The challenge. That’s what keeps most of us here. 32

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Ski tip: Be aggressive—keeps you on your skis. But don’t be stupid aggressive. Use your brains while the testosterone flows through your veins.

THEO MEINERS, a Jackson Hole skier since 1978, is a ski instructor, a backcountry guide, and a Snow King ski patrolman for nine years, mostly during night skiing. Favorite new thing: The new tram and the gondola have changed the traffic patterns and increased the vertical at the resort, providing the opportunity to ski till you drop, or as long as your legs last. Favorite old thing: The skiing in the backcountry was better when the gates were closed. There’re a lot more people back there now. But on the upside, the skiing has improved inbounds because more people go out the gates. Ski tip: Don’t look back, get fat. Fat skis im-

MARY PATNO, a Jackson Hole skier since 1981, worked as a lift attendant, a parking lot attendant, a tram conductor, an alpine ski instructor, a Nordic ski instructor, on the ski patrol, and in ticket sales Favorite new thing: The tram. Favorite old thing: My fellow ski patrollers. Ski tip: Get up early. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Photo: Bob Woodall

Air to pow, pow to air. Repeat, as long as your legs last. Skier: Rick Armstrong

amount of room; it’s bigger and faster than the old tram, so it’s more pleasant. Favorite old thing: Me! Ha! And the old tram. It put fewer people on the bowl, and that was its advantage. Ski tip: Start the day with a warm-up run on Après Vous. That’s a great mountain and Werner is one of the best intermediate slopes I’ve ever been on.

KIRK “SPARKY” SPECKHALS, a Jackson Hole skier since 1980, worked as a snowmaker, a lift operator on Rendezvous Bowl Poma in 1987 (that lift was removed), a groomer up to ‘97, and then as a ski patrolman. Favorite new thing: (laughs) The brand new tram! Actually, it’s kind of a toss-up between the open gate and the brand new tram. But I like the new tram’s capacity, the new technology, the redundant systems, the safety and reliability. Favorite old thing: The terrain. The terrain has stayed the same, even with all the new lifts and development at the base. Ski tip: Pay attention to aspect and elevation. With the big vertical relief, elevation can play a big role in snow quality. Regarding aspect, east and south facing are in the sun, the north aspect is out of the sun. Sometimes you want one, sometimes the other.

TOMMY MOE, Jackson Hole Skier since 1994 Credentials: U.S. Ski Team 1987-98; five-time U.S. National Champion, Olympic gold medal in downhill, silver medal in super-G in 1994. Sponsored by Dynastar, Spyder, Lange, Look, Kerma. Jobs: JHMR Ambassador; JHMR Sports School; ski guide with Tordrillo Mtn. Lodge, Alaska; fishing guide for Grand Fishing Adventures, Teton Village Favorite new thing: The Jackson Hole Aerial Tram Favorite old thing: The Elephant Tree Ski tip: Hit Corbet’s when it’s soft!

Favorite old thing: The lifts might get updated, there might be new buildings and all sorts of stuff, but the mountain never changes. In and of itself, this mountain is my favorite and will always be my favorite. Snowboard tip: Keep fueled up to get back out there. Check out the Village Café, get a cup of coffee, and a slice of pizza.

JESS MCMILLAN, born and raised in Jackson Hole, been skiing since 1984. Credentials: Competes on the Freeride World Tour, won competitions in Russia, Chamonix, and Revelstoke; won both the Freeskiing World Tour

“The reason Jackson sticks out: skiing here is an adventure every day. Sitting down at the bottom waiting for the tram to open, bombs going off, you feel the buzz. Everybody has a plan.” – JESS MCMILLAN ROB KINGWILL, Jackson Hole snowboarder since 1980 Credentials: Former U.S. Snowboard Team member, competed eight years in half pipe, boarder cross and slope-style; won the U.S. Open in 1998, medaled in the World Championships, the X Games, Goodwill Games, Gravity Games; was the overall Grand Prix Champ twice in half pipe; won the Fakey category at Mt. Baker Banked Slalom last year; took sec- Favorite things: Making lots of turns. Not making many turns. ond in Alaska’s 2009 King of the Hill, won the North Face Masters in Alyeska, and the U.S. Freeskiing Tour. Sponsored by SpyAlaska. Sponsored by The North Face, Compa- der, Volk, Marker, Technica, JHMR, Backcountriot Snowboards, Avalon 7, Smith Optics, Bern, Scott USA, Sweet, and Da Kine. Jobs: To win! Ha! I started on race crew in helmets, JHMR, Skull Candy headphones, World 2004, then became a professional skier. I’m a Board Shop, Red Bull. Jobs: JH Ambassador since 1993, got on the blogger, too, for I actually like blogging. It gives voice to athletes, your dreams team while in high school. Favorite new thing: That’s definitely going to and goals, the challenges. It helps people relate to be the new Stash Park. The Park and Pipe crew what we’re doing. I may be talking about skiing a built all-natural features and it’s absolutely fantas- gnarly line, and someone sitting at a desk worktic. But my favorite thing in the whole wide world ing on a big deal can relate to the pressure. It’s the same pressure—you get nervous beforehand, is the new tram. 34

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then you get an adrenaline rush when the thing actually happens. Favorite new thing: The new Gazex (two new avalanche hazard reduction exploder tubes on the Headwall). I’m really psyched about that. And the OB policy. Favorite old thing: The reason Jackson sticks out: skiing here is an adventure every day. Sitting down at the bottom waiting for the tram to open, bombs going off, you feel the buzz. Everybody has a plan. Ski tip: Read the avy report. It’ll tell you what inbounds slopes are skiing well, where the best and the deepest snow will be. North facing or south facing? I look mostly at wind, where the wind came from, what direction, how it was moving. The wind buffs out the slopes and it’s a brand new day.

CRYSTAL WRIGHT, born and raised in Jackson Hole, has been skiing since age two. Credentials: 2008 U.S. Freeskiing Champion, 2009 Freeskiing World Tour Champion, competed on the world tour for five seasons. Sponsored by JHMR, Probar, Arcteryx, Icebreaker, Head, Hestra, Teton Village Sports, Mountain Athlete, and Scott. Jobs: One year as a ski host, now a personal trainer in ski fitness and boot camp. Favorite new thing: The tram of course. It is amazing how much vertical feet you can get in one day. Favorite old thing: I miss the old tram clock tower. It showed the character of Jackson Hole. The new one is too modern. Ski Tip: Try to experience the entire mountain. It will make you a better skier before you leave!

LYNSEY DYER, Jackson Hole skier since 2004 Credentials: 2010 Powder Female Skier of the Year, 2004/05 Freeski tour champion, TGR segments, Warren Miller segments four years running. Sponsored by First Ascent, Gordini, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, ABS packs, Scull Candy. Favorite new thing: The new tram Favorite old thing: The old tram

TRAVIS RICE, born and raised in Jackson Hole, has been snowboarding for 28 years. Credentials: Contests, films, and JH blizzard shredding. Sponsored by Quicksilver, DC Shoes, Lib Technologies, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Activision Games (Tony Hawk pro skater), Red Bull, Friends Headphones, Remind Soles, Bluebird Wax, Asymbol Gallery & Print Shop. Favorite new thing: Stash Park going off this year.

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Photo: Wade McKoy

Jackson Hole Resort Pro Riders

Snowboard tip: You will always find good snow if you keep looking.

Favorite old thing: Pre-gondola Headwall! Snowboard tip: Try to get lost inbounds! That’s where you’ll score.

ANDREW WHITEFORD, Jackson Hole skier for five years Credentials: Appearances in Storm Show Studios’ and Meathead Films’ movies. Published photos in multiple ski and outdoor publications and on the Internet. Sponsored by JHMR, Line Skis, Smith Optics, Full Tilt Boots, Orage, Da Kine, GoPro, Avalon7. Jobs: None! I feel pretty lucky to have

SHRODER BAKER, Jackson Hole skier since 1999 Credentials: Feature segments in 15 ski films. Sponsored by Rossignol, Patagonia, Da Kine, Smith, and JHMR. Jobs: Snowmaker for 5 seasons Favorite new thing: The Tram, of course. Favorite old thing: Granite Canyon. Ski tip: If you want any chance of getting the pow, one must get up super early. Locals crush it here... Fast!

“Ski tip: Pace yourself. It’s a huge mountain and there will still be fresh snow to be found at the end of the day.” –JEFF ANNETTS

Photo: Bob Woodall

BRYAN IGUCHI, Jackson Hole snowboarder since 1995 Credentials: Snowboard Ambassador. Sponsored by JHMR, Volcom, Electric, Bluebird wax, Remind Insoles, Cudahy Sushi, Teton Thai, Nun Hydration. Favorite new thing: Teton Thai Favorite old thing: Mangy Moose Snowboard tip: Be cool to locals and they just might enlighten you. JEFF ANNETTS, Jackson Hole skier

since 1980 Credentials: Appearances in ski films by Warren Miller, Rage Films, Storm Show Studio; magazine appearances, including two covers, in Powder, Freeskier, Couloir, Skiing, Outside, and Men’s Journal. Spon- Tip: Start early, eat lunch at noon. sored by Fischer Skis, Columbia, Scott, and IntuMATT ANNETTS, Jackson Hole snowboarder ition Liners. for 18 years Jobs: Solitude Cabin for eight years Credentials: Lucky. Sponsored by Unity Favorite new thing: The tram Snowboards, Perfect Moment Clothing, Kombi, Favorite old thing: The tram PowerBar, Salice. Ski tip: Pace yourself. It’s a huge mountain Jobs: Waiter at Solitude Cabin, snowmaker and there will still be fresh snow to be found at the Favorite new thing: Bike trails end of the day. Favorite old thing: The terrain


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every one of my moments at the resorts on my own time! Favorite new thing: Well, the Stash Park looks sick and I can’t wait to see how it rides this winter, but my hands-down favorite new thing is Big Red. The Tramicopter. The tram! Favorite old thing: Might be cliché, but I have to say the tram. There has never been a better icon of great skiing and riding in North America. Ski tip: Every morning, check the web cams on the upper mountain. When you roll out of bed and see cold and cloudy out your window, there may be an inversion and the upper mountain will be sunny! — Jackson Hole Skier

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The Stash Park JHMR Park and Pipe department partners with long-time snowboard maker Jake Burton

The chainsaw sculptures can’t be ignored: a giant wooden moose on Deer Flats, a life-sized wooden bear on Ashley Ridge, a monstrous “Shreddie” guarding Campground. Same with the other original structures: the Rainbow rail slides, the Eagle’s Nest powder pillows, the spine at Space Ship Rock, the Dance Floor cliff drop, the giant, dangling brass Belt Buckle Gong, and the Crisscross. Jackson Hole is the latest resort to build a Stash Park, the creation of snowboard-maker Jake Burton, who has licensed six of his organic terrain parks so far in France, Austria, New Zealand, and three in the U.S., including Killington and Tahoe. “It’s a dream come true for snowboarders,” says Ranyon d’Arge, JHMR Park and Pipe Supervisor. “To be able to hit four perfect rainbows (bent-over trees with both ends touching the ground) in a row, that’s huge. As kids, before parks were popular, we’d go off into the trees and hit logs and do rail slides on whatever we could find. A good rainbow was the best.” Jackson Hole’s four new Stash Parks are located on Campground, Ashley Ridge, Deer Flats, and at Antelope Flats. The Antelope Flats park is “super friendly, low on the ground, and meant for the kids,” says d’Arge. “It has a playground-like structure for a drop-in, which makes it fun.”

Stash parks are evolutionary. “It fits well with the resort’s commitment to go green,” he says. “There is no plastic, no steel. It’s all-natural: deadwood, rock, and dirt. Instead of having burn piles, we make features out of forest products. We clean up the hill and recycle a lot of the deadfall. We don’t harm any live trees.” Local log craftsman Paul Turi taught the crew how to cope logs and cut better joints. “We really improved our log work over the summer.” The parks also showcase the highlights of JHMR’s terrain. “Instead of trying to chase down some of the other resorts’ great urban-style, traditional ski-and-snowboard parks,” says d’Arge. “The Stash concept works better here with our steep pitches and cross traffic.” One feature, Travis Rice Rock, indicates some of the pro-riders who helped design the new park. “We had a lot of input from pro snowboarders,” d’Arge says. “Travis Rice and Rob Kingwill came up this summer, and we also got creative input from some of Burton’s team riders. It is a collaborative creative process.” Each Stash Park Yeti, “Shreddie,”—a mascot common to all of Burton’s parks—is uniquely reflective of its region. “Ours is a combination of a bison and a mountain man,” he points out. Michael Bettera, senior project manager with Snowpark Tech-


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nologies, works with Burton’s Jeff Boliba on all six Stash parks worldwide. “Jeff and I always spoke about how rad it would be if we had a Stash at Jackson Hole,” says Bettera. “It’s such an amazing mountain. Then to find out that the terrain park staff here had put in a proposal on their own, we were stoked.” Bettera photographs every feature, records its GPS location, uploads it to a computer, and creates a map of each Stash. “People can plan their line on the computer before even seeing the actual park,” he says. A three-foot base will open the park to riders of expert ability. As the snow piles up deeper, the ability-level demands lessen, until finally some of the features will disappear under the snow. The Stash parks, though, do not replace the resort’s other parks and pipes. The crew maintains a beginner park on Bronco, an intermediate park on Antelope Flats, and a half-pipe below South Pass next to lower Werner. A kid’s sledding area, complete with snow sculptures, is maintained in the Teton Village Commons next to the tram. — Jackson Hole Skier

Photos by Wade McKoy

Each feature is photographed and its GPS location recorded and uploaded to a computer. Maps are created and people can plan their lines virtually at any of Burton’s six stash parks worldwide, on their computers before seeing the park in reality.

Photo by Wade McKoy

Jackson Holeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Freeride Team â&#x20AC;&#x153;Freeride is an all-encompassing term for freedom of self-expression on whatever sliding medium one prefers in the mountains,â&#x20AC;? says freeride team coach Rob LaPier. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Modern freestyle was born of the same spark that ignited upright aerials, mogul skiing, and, although we are a little embarrassed to admit it, even ski ballet.â&#x20AC;? Former freeski competitors, LaPier and fellow coach Trevor Hiatt became coaches more than five years ago. They recently joined forces to â&#x20AC;&#x153;govern and enhance the valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most dedicated freeride team, the Jackson Hole Anomaly,â&#x20AC;? says LaPier. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Trevor Hi att demonst rates a freer program has been in existence for more ide maneuve r. than five years but has recently taken a new shape g o a l s and achieve them.â&#x20AC;? with the Mountain Sports School.â&#x20AC;? Teton Gravity Research is a new partner this â&#x20AC;&#x153;Two recent partnerships are crucial to our current programâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s improvements,â&#x20AC;? says LaPier. year. Billimoria says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll help our kids inteâ&#x20AC;&#x153;The Jackson Hole Resort Mountain Sports School grate into the world of ski-film production, give a is our governing body for everything we do locally. tour of the productions facility, introduce them to This partnership allows us priority lift privileges, and go skiing with big name athletes like Rachel exclusive JH Mountain Guides backcountry ac- Burke and Shroder Baker, and feature Anomaly 7HW RQ 9L O O DJH  :< cess, and a structured teaching system that builds team videos, photos, and stories on their website. great skiers from as young as two years old! We are Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cool for the kids. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s their dream to break    also working with the Teton Valley Ski Education into the TGR world, and the JH Anomaly seems O RZU L GHU ERDU GV KRS FRP Foundation to bring more athletes together for to be a really good way to do that.â&#x20AC;? 1H[W  W R 3HSL Âś V  L Q W KH 2O \PSL F 3O D]D â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Jackson Hole Skier competition training. The TVSEF will provide us with a van for our travel together, making our costs more affordable for families and athletes.â&#x20AC;? JHMR Communications Manager Zahan Billimoria says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great way for top-tier young athletes who might have ambitions in professional skiing to get coached, train, and compete on the biggest, baddest mountain on the continent. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the premier freeride park-and-pipe team in Jackson.â&#x20AC;? The program, for 10- to 18-year olds, is run by LaPier and Hiatt, with help from Tyler Van Martin, North Parker, Jordan Rupe, and Ryan Halverson. Each fall it begins with dry-land training, strength training, and core training. A new component, â&#x20AC;&#x153;athleteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mindset,â&#x20AC;? centers on goal visualization and achievement. The team begins onsnow training as soon as possible. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Once on snow we train at Teton Village,â&#x20AC;? says LaPier. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We travel with athletes to competitions throughout Utah, Idaho, Colorado, and Wyoming.â&#x20AC;? The team competes in half-pipe, slope-style, rail-jam, and freeski events. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We also do Dickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ditch,â&#x20AC;? says Lapier, referring to the Jackson Hole classic, â&#x20AC;&#x153;which is akin to skier-cross or banked a f g j slalom.â&#x20AC;? ] n ] D  ] a d j Y ` ;  The on-snow training zeroes in on each athj ] a c k e Y ] l  ] leteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individual discipline. â&#x20AC;&#x153;A lot of athletes have k m g ` ] ] j V QRZ  V XU I   V NDW H L an idea of what theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re focused on, where their ZZZ M DFNV RQW U HHKRXV H FRP strengths are,â&#x20AC;? says Lapier. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our goals are to show them how to progress in a safe manner; to teach  Â&#x153;V >Ă&#x152; i`Ă&#x160; Â&#x2C6; Â&#x2DC; Ă&#x160; Â&#x153;Ă&#x152; iÂ? Ă&#x160; / iĂ&#x20AC; Ă&#x20AC; > them new freestyle maneuvers; how to strengthen their bodies; the right time to make those decisions to try something new; the safest place to try those new tricks, flips, and spins; the competitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s I X O O  V H U Y L F H  W X Q H  V K R S  Â&#x2021; U H Q W D O V  D Q G  G H PR V  D Y D L O D E O H mindset; how to win competitions, and focus on

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The Jackson Hole Ski Patrol The bomb fuses are lit, the gas trol morning,” says Elkins. “We exploders activated, the artillery have 37 patrollers on a day, so and air cannons fired. The resultwe have to bring in auxiliary ant muffled blasts hail the coming staff on the big snow mornings. of a new ski day in Jackson Hole. The avalanche-hazard reduction And it starts early. From predawn routes have been developed and to the opening bell at 9 a.m., ski refined over a 45-year history. patrollers and avalanche-hazard Patrollers are assigned routes for forecasters complete the demandthe season and a number of paing, dangerous work of avalanchetrollers have been on their hazard reduction within the routes for many years.” Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s Typically, three years are boundaries. needed to get to know a particuAnd what many-splendored lar route, to experience it in a tools that ground crew employs! number of likely scenarios. It’s an A 105-mm Howitzer on loan area of work where the individfrom the U.S. Army, two new ual patroller’s experience and Gasex exploder tubes installed knowledge come into play. on the Headwall, two Hand charges are primarily Avalauncher projectile systems, one- and two-pound explosives and lots of good old miner’s-cast deployed by throwing them or by primer hand charges. suspending them above the While most of us are sleepsnow, a method called an air ing, before the muted percusblast. In this case the explosive sions start rolling through the charge is attached to bamboo and dawn, lights flicker to life in placed one meter above snow if the Teton Village lab. Inside, the site can be skied to safely, or avalanche forecasters for the by using trolleys strung in locaBridger-Teton National Forest tions that cannot be safely acexamine the past 12 hours’ cessed on skis. data collected on their com“Air blasts are a very effective puters from four remote way to deploy explosives,” he says. weather sites on Rendezvous “Especially with lighter density Mountain. snow, the area of influence is Wind, its direction, speed, much greater.” and duration; air temperatures Another way to deploy exthroughout the night; and of plosives is via a large sled bomb. course snow accumulations “We can build a 25-, 50-, and recorded every 15 minutes, all of A backcountry skier set off a cornice break and, subsequently, this soft-slab slide. even a 100-pound bomb,” says it critical data, is routed off to Elkins. “It’s time consuming, but efit,” says Elkins of the new Gazex units. “The the National Weather Service in Riverton, Headwall has always been an area of high concern if we have significant deep-slab instability, we’ll Wyoming. By 6 a.m., resort forecasters receive a during significant storm cycles. With the Gazex deploy large sled bombs.” specific forecast for Rendezvous Peak. That NWS we now have the ability to deploy a large exploThe final tool that comes into play is ski forecast further informs the operations plan sive charge at the most opportune time, either checking. “That’s the last check,” he says. “To go drafted the previous afternoon at 3 p.m. by the early morning or evening.” into the terrain, ski across the slope, forcing your Jackson Hole Ski Patrol, a plan ultimately based The first patrolmen on the hill, though, are weight onto the skis, making Zs, trying to get the on Riverton’s updated Rendezvous Peak forecast. from the Avalauncher team. snow to release if possible.” “The 105 Howitzer crew comes in prior to six Early in the season, a lot of this work is done “At 6:30, via snow cat or the gondola, we send a.m. and prepares to fire the weapon,” says ski pa- a crew to Avalauncher Gun Two at the top of before daylight. trol director Jake Elkins. “The 105 is the first thing Thunder,” Elkins continues. “They’ll shoot remote “It’s still dark when we go up in December the people hear as the shots detonate in targets targets above the Cirque and the Expert Chutes, to and January,” Elkins says. “By the time we start north of Casper Bowl and the Crags.” protect the workers when they go underneath our hand-charge routes, it’s early daylight. The Next, two new Gazex units on the headwall are these cliff areas. weather can be pretty ‘Western’ up there too: 80 fired, each with a force equal to a 28-pound bomb. Avalauncher Gun Four, located on Casper just mph winds, snow and blowing snow. These can “We’ll shoot those new exploders remotely above the Nastar start, fires on remote targets pri- be difficult conditions to navigate in.” from the avalanche lab,” Elkins says. “We have a marily in the Casper Bowl area. So, buy your local ski patrolman a beer. They lot of flexibility with those units. We can fire them Next, the bulk of the ski patrol workforce love their work, dangerous though it may be. But prior to going up in the morning, either before or heads up the mountain on a 7:30 tram to run without it, the ski area would sometimes not open after the 105 is done shooting. for days on end. hand-charge routes. “Worker and public safety is the biggest ben— Jackson Hole Skier “It takes 48 staff members to do a full-con-


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Photos by Wade McKoy

Using the tools of avalanche-hazard reduction

Open gates allow skiers... Beyond Resort Boundaries


Watch out for skiers above you.

hose who venture beyond the boundary gates at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort should know that Teton County has led the nation in avalanche deaths since 2000, says Bob Comey, ski patroller and chief avalanche forecaster at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and director of the Bridger-Teton National

Bridger-Teton National Forest

AVALANCHE CENTER Since the 1970s the Bridger-Teton National Forest Avalanche Center has posted daily avalanche bulletins. The science and tools have come a long way in those 40 years. “As directed by head forecaster Bob Comey, we’re constantly improving the product,” says avalanche forecaster Mike Rheam. “We now have 16 weather stations located in the Tetons, the Wyoming range, and on Togwotee Pass. “Our newest partnership with Grand Targhee Resort will help, too, putting better instruments in the northern Tetons.” Every morning, the forecasters post data and forecasts for three regions: The Teton area, the Southwest Trials / Greys River area, and the Togwotee Pass Continental Divide area. The website has a couple new features this year, too. “Our newest product is with Google Earth,” says Rheam. “You can pull up a visual interpretation of every avalanche that has been reported to the center by using any number of parameters: date range, size, location. This will help us attain our goal to make this information transparent to everyone and should increase the information that we get from public.” Also new on the site this year are postings by the public on the Snowpit Details page. Get involved by using this exceptional resource at w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

Forest Avalanche Center. If you do choose to ski OB, you should know the risks of skiing on terrain the ski patrol does not manage. If necessary, Teton County Sheriff’s Office and Grand Teton National Park—not the ski patrollers on the mountain—will coordinate a rescue.

Jake Elkins, ski patrol director, summed up risk-management advice for out-ofbounds skiing in one word: knowledge. “The best thing they can do when they head out into the backcountry is have knowledge,” he advises. “Knowledge of the terrain, where they’re going, the most recent weather, a stability evaluation. They should have knowledge of transceivers and how to use them and know the weather forecast.” If you’re the least bit unsure of your knowledge or your partners’, hire a guide, suggests Comey. They are knowledgeable, and local and cool to boot! They can lead you to deep cowboy powder with less risk than if you venture out on your own. Comey also notes that even if you’re a great skier, know the area and weather conditions, have perfect equipment and knowledgeable partners, you’re still not guaranteed a no-avalanche ski run. “What’s really important is knowing when not to go, and who not to go with,” Comey says. “Know the limitations of your partners, know the risks, and manage those risks. The really big thing is not getting caught. Some people die in a shallow burial, with no trauma.” — Jackson Hole Skier

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Jackson’s Ski Mountaineering Team top competitors in Randonnée racing

Imagine speed-skinning up 3,000 vertical B.C., and three U.S. National Team qualifying feet, then trotting up a boot-pack for another races at Jackson Hole, Grand Targhee, and Sun1,000 vertical, before finally barreling downhill light Mountain, Colorado. The World Champiat 50 mph through moguls and crud, all on onships are slated for Claut, Italy. super-light skis and boots. Now repeat that orEuropean races, well-attended community deal — without resting! events, take place in rugged alpine settings. That’s Randonnée racing. And, true to form, “You’re skinning up in the backcountry, deep in Jackson Hole is home to some of America’s top the mountains,” says Smith, “and you come up to competitors in this European-born and -domi- a ridge and there’s over a thousand people there, nated discipline. Last year the swinging huge cow bells. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort They’ve got fondue pots, beer, The descent is genformed a team. and brats. They’re having a erally off-piste and “Before we became a team, huge party. They’ve all skinned we were a core group of guys, up three-thousand feet, hauling whatever the course skiing together for years, all all their paraphernalia. You race setters can throw at going to the same races,” says through this quarter-mile-long Cary Smith, six-year veteran throng of cheering people, get you. It’s tough skiing. and one of America’s premier on a knife-edged ridge with a ski-mountaineering athletes. fixed rope, and there’s a heli“Dynafit and Teton Mountaineering have helped copter right over your head, filming. And the me from almost the beginning, and they still do. crowd is pounding! It’s super exhilarating. I hope But last year the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort it catches on like that here.” joined forces with Dynafit, Marmot, and ClimbThe newest team member, Zahan Billimoria, ing Skins Direct to sponsor a team.” qualified for the U.S. Team in 2008 with Kroger, The team did well, qualifying three competi- Smith, and Steve Romeo, and together they travtors for the National Team representation at the eled to the World Championships in Champéry, World Championships and snagging two podium Switzerland. “We raced against elite world-class finishes at the National Championships. athletes who are sponsored, salaried, and train full This year the Jackson Hole Ski Mountaineer- time,” says Billimoria. “They are on a completely ing Team of Cary, Chris Kroger, Zahan Billimo- different level, and we were humbled. But it was ria, and Amy Fulwyler plan to enter a hut-to-hut really inspiring to compete at that level.” event in Canada’s Selkirk Range outside Golden, “Races are hard,” says Smith. “It’s a fast start,


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— Jackson Hole Skier

Avalanche Schools

American Avalanche Institute Level I: Dec. 9-12, Dec. 18-21, Jan. 8-11, Feb. 5-8, Feb. 26-Mar. 1, Mar. 12-15; Level II: Jan. 2-5; Level III: Feb. 11-15 Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Level I: Dec. 12-4, Jan. 13-15, Jan. 30-Feb. 1, Feb. 13-15; Level II: Feb. 5-8 Exum Mountain Guides Level I: Jan. 22-25; Level II Feb. 19-22

Beacon Parks

Local beacon parks typically have 10 transceivers hard-wired into a control panel. These transceivers are buried in containers and remain buried for the season. One can practice searching for 1, 2, 3, or even 10 transceivers at a time, by turning on a given number of beacons at the control panel, locating each transceiver by a probe strike, but leaving them buried. There are two beacon basins in the Tetons: one below the East Ridge Chair at JHMR and one on Phillips Bench up the Phillips Canyon road. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Photo by Mark Goecke

and frantic: go, go, go. It settles into a fairly long climb and people get into their own pace. At the top, there’s a very fast transition—pulling skins and buckling boots in less than 30 seconds. The descent is generally off-piste and whatever the course setters can throw at you. It’s tough skiing. Sometimes bulletproof gnarly bumps, trees, and generally pretty steep. You’re on 160-cm skis that weigh about a pound and a half, lightweight boots, and you’re breathing hard from having just crushed yourself on the uphill. There’s no rest.” At the bottom, it’s reset and repeat. “There’s a frantic transition again,” says Smith, “putting on skins in 45 seconds, then skiing back up the mountain again. The second climb often includes a steep boot-pack. You throw your skis on your backpack and away you go. You’re not putting your pack down and having a snack. But you have to stay on top of your electrolytes and your nutrition.” And the weather? “It’s winter,” says Smith. “You’ve just got to be ready to face it, whatever the weather.” This winter, the team will train more on Jackson Hole’s ski area slopes to prepare for the tough descents they face at most contest venues. Cary Smith climbs out of Corbet's Couloir at the 2009 U.S. Ski Mountaineering Championships. “Our team didn’t do as well on the downhill because we trained in the backcountry—too much powder,” says Billimoria. “With JHMR as a sponsor we’ll ski inbounds more and get used to the really little gear in variable conditions. Doing that for 4,000 vertical feet gets you really strong.” Jackson Hole is home to some of America’s

Photo by Bob Larsen

Ski Patrol Rescues Dogs Bloodhounds hunker down and howl Drew Kneeland and Chris Peck haul the hounds down the mountain.

The ski patrol typically employs rescue dogs to help them find people. But in this one odd role reversal, the patrol actually rescued the dogs, two old hounds holed up and howling in a steep, icy cliff area usually off limits to all but the gnarliest skiers. It happened last spring during a work detail before the mountain opened. Four female patrollers were riding Thunder chair lift and talking about how unusual that was, when they heard an infinitely more unusual radio transmission. “Mountain Station, this is A.J. I’m down on Amphitheater and I hear a dog howling. It sounds like it’s coming from Hoop’s Gap or the Mushroom Chutes area.” “Did she say a dog?” asked one of the women, Shannon Brown. “Yeah, she said a howling dog,” answered another, Carol Viau. “Shannon and I skied down under the lift and we began to hear something,” says Viau. They found the sound’s source—an old bloodhound. “It was laying down and appeared injured and not too friendly,” says Viau. “We radioed the situation up to Mountain Station. I moved out of the woods so I could direct the toboggan that was being sent. “That’s when I saw it, hound dog number two, coming right at me. This brown hound looked tired, hungry, and scared as he tried to hold his feet in place but was unable to on the icy moguls.” Viau coaxed the canine to her side but it didn’t want to stay. It didn’t have on a collar, nothing for her to grab onto. “I pulled my lunch out of my pack, and that did the trick,” says Viau. “I had a special lunch that day, too, Crozets with Beaufort cheese, straight from the Savoie region of France. It was like gold to me and I had to give some to this dog.” Assistant Patrol Director Drew Kneeland arrived on the scene with a toboggan and some chicken to further lure the animals. He went to the injured dog first and soon realized that it wasn’t injured after all. w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

“We had a little trouble getting near them,” says Kneeland. “They seemed a little bit wild, but with the chicken we lured them in, got some ropes around their necks.” The ski patrol rescue team got the hounds into the rig and tied them down. “One was docile,” says Kneeland, “and one was chomping at the bit trying to get out of the rig.” “I created this elaborate strapping system to strap both of them down,” Viau says. “It’s hard enough loading a person, harder still loading a noncompliant dog, and we had two noncompliant dogs.” “But we managed to rig them out of there and bring them down the hill, into the clinic,” says Kneeland.

“That’s where we take all our patients,” says Viau. Then the strange story took a comical twist. “One of the dog collars had a phone number on it and the dog’s name, Cola,” says Kneeland, “but when we called and asked if they had a dog named Cola, the lady said, ‘Well, we did, but he died last night.’ And we said, ‘No, he didn’t die last night, he’s here at the ski area.’ And she said, ‘No, he’s dead and he’s here at the house.’” It seems that one of the wandering dogs was using a collar the owner had borrowed from another dog, the one that had died at home that night. They were old dogs. “It became clear after a while that these were hunting dogs that had gotten loose and run up on the mountain from their home a few miles down the road,” Kneeland says. “They were probably following a fox that had been seen that morning running out of the woods in the Amphitheater area. We surmised those dogs had been chasing the fox and got into the Hoop’s Gap area, kind of steep terrain, and they got a little confused up there, tired and hungry. Snow cats were working above and below them, making noise, lights flashing. The dogs hunkered down in the trees and started baying.” What else should a tired, lost, confused hound do? Ski patroller Bob Larsen videoed the toboggan ride and it’s on YouTube; search Jackson Hole Ski Patrol. — Jackson Hole Skier




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The Town Downhill

Jackson’s classic community alpine ski race

Zach Schwartz maintains control as he enters The Steilhang.


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“There aren’t many places in the world where a citizen can strap on a pair of long skis and race in a downhill,” says Jim Sullivan, Snow King’s ski area manager from 1984 to 2010. “Especially on a mountain as steep as Snow King.” The Town Downhill (TDH) has been a Jackson tradition since 1982, when the ski club’s alpine race director, Fred Turton, helped set the first course. The origin of its nickname, the Mini-Hahnenkamm, dates back to the 1950s, when Jim Huidekoper, one of the ski area’s founders, named Snow King’s steepest run The Steilhang because it reminded him of a slope on Austria’s famed peak, the Hahnenkamm. Pro-division racers hit speeds of 70 mph as they schuss Grizzly top to bottom in less than a minute. The Steilhang rushes towards racers as they rocket out of The Chute. Shitzenpantzen absolutely gets their attention, followed by The Pro Bump and The Money Turn. “It’s one of the classic town races in the country,” says Bridger Call, alpine program director and head coach for the Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Club, which still runs the annual event. “It always draws a big crowd.” The Fat-and-Baggy class brings out the more lighthearted participants. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Photos: Wade McKoy

2010 Town Downhill champ Tommy Moe races towards Shitzenpantzen.

“Anyone can enter,” says Sullivan. “It’s really great fun. The serious-but-friendly competition, the camaraderie, and the post-race party make it my favorite weekend of the ski season.” Chief of course Josh Daigle has been at his post for 20 years. Rick Hunt’s Fish Creek Excavation has been the title sponsor for eight years. Aaron Pruzan serves as announcer, as does Benny Wilson. Long-time local family names including Hansen, Stevenson, and Watsabaugh annually appear on start lists and as course crew. Here’s what some of the veteran TDH racers say about the Mini-Hahnenkamm

“It’s where we get to go really fast, take air at 66 mph, and not get angry if someone goes faster. Two seasons ago Dana Mackenzie and Squeeke Melehes were on vacation, which enabled me to finished first in my age group of 50+. Thanks guys. “The true king of the TDH is Adam McCool. ‘Coolie’ has been in every one.” — Ben Wilson

“The guy that has the most fun wins. I’ve been winning every year. Last year I won a pair of skis as the fat-and-over-fifty champ. It’s neat to see how it pulls everybody out.” — Rob Watsabaugh “The Town Downhill is my all-time favorite community event and once-a-year downhill adrenaline rush. There is nothing like it for bringing skiers together and skiing fast! I can’t wait to be able to race again this year. I was injured last year and had to watch and help out, but it was still so much fun!” — Crystal Wright, three-year women’s pro division champion, four-year amateur champion

“It’s scary fun, the Mini-Hahnenkamm. Steeps, high speed, big air. Hacks can race against Olympians. Always among the most fun weekends and best party. Be there!” — Aaron Pruzan, a 15-year TDH race veteran and six-year event organizer Last year the ski club expanded its quiver of competitions to include The Triple Crown—winner of the Pole Peddle Paddle, the Moose Chase Nordic race, and the Town Downhill—and the Margarita Cup adult race series. Info at — Jackson Hole Skier

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“My first time down the Pro Chute at Snow King is beyond description. You have to try it. “Two years ago I pushed through the addition of a junior division. The teenagers love it! It’s imperative to keep this event alive with new, young blood. It’s a crucial link between the old-school ski racers and the new breed of young hot shots. They get a Rick Hunt taste of what a World Cup downhill or super-G is like and how much skill it takes to get down in one piece while hurtling along at 60 mph wearing only a helmet, a thin layer of Lycra, and bindings set at ‘won’t come off.’ “As long as the TDH is around, our ski-racing heritage on the town hill is safe. Otherwise it will go away just like the old ski jump that got swallowed up by the skating rink.” — Rick Hunt w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

Moe makes a right footer on upper Grizzly.


Tommy Moe accepts his 2010 TDH championship crown.

“The competition is always pretty stout. For me, it’s an excuse to go as fast as I can down the mountain. It’s great to go to the King and race and chill with a bunch of good friends!” — Tommy Moe, two-time Town Downhill champion, TDH racer since 2003



Photo by Bronwyn Ishii Marvin Howard skis Targhee’s famous fluff.


High-altitude village a powder magnet

Warning: Grand Targhee can be habit forming. Soft snow. Friendly people. Quaint village. It gets under your skin–the quiet warmth of a day well spent–and keeps you coming back for more. Grand Targhee has always been like that. Ski magazine readers ranked it among the top five for Best Snow for over 13 years. Skiing readers listed it sixth in the category. “The key is consistency,” said Grand Targhee Resort Communications Manager Shannon Brooks Hamby. “Storms come in on a regular basis, continually refreshing the slopes. That makes us one of the best resorts for consistent snow in the country. Our 500-inch annual snowfall average is well-known among passionate skiers and snowboarders.” More and more people are figuring that out, evidenced by the burgeoning local ski community. And that seems just fine to born-and-raised locals like 27-year-old Gary

Cody Barnhill hits a kicker for TGR.

“The typical story is, people come here in their 20s for some random reason, or after college to ski bum for a while, and never leave.”

Photos: Wade McKoy

Julian Carr throws a front flip off a massive cliff during Teton Gravity Research’s filming on the north face of Peaked Mountain.

Mackenzie and his brother Max, 24. “For a long time there weren’t many other skiers around my age,” says Gary. “Now there are lots. Skiers and snowboarders who’ve come and stayed. We are riding with everybody these days. Tele-skiers, snowboarders, snowmobilers.” Another local who’s skied Targhee since age three, Mike Leake, also noted an increase in the local ski community. “The typical story is, people come here in their 20s for some random reason, or after college to ski bum for a while, and never leave,” he says. Originally from nearby Idaho Falls, Idaho, Leake began coming to Targhee with w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

his parents every weekend. “The ski area hasn’t changed much,” he notes, “except the lift lines got shorter when the Dreamcatcher High Speed Quad replaced the old Bannock Chair Lift.” Local kids, have through the years been brought into skiing through two important local cultural amenities: the Winter Sports school program, and the Grand Targhee Ski Team. “They almost got rid of the Winter Sports program one year,” recalls Mackenzie, “and I didn’t know if I could stay in school!” But the Winter Sports program is still going strong and the ski team part of the Teton Valley Ski Education Foundation

(TVSEF). They continue to be a big influence on the local ski community, as yet another graduate and participant since age three, 20-year-old Dorian Densmore, testifies. “The ski team was a huge part of my life,” Densmore says. “And they’re still here, volunteering and keeping lots of kids learning.” Started by local rancher and spud farmer Dana Mackenzie—Gary’s dad—and some of his buddies, the Grand Targhee Ski Team took advantage of every opportunity. Mackenzie remembers that when Jackson Hole’s Tommy Moe won his Olympic Gold Medal, “Dad arranged for us to ski with Tommy and he taught us how to do a 360! 2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R


Photos: Wade McKoy Mt. Owen, and the Grand, Middle, and South Tetons etch Targhee’s western skyline. Skiers Bissell Hazen and Jeff Leger.

“Dad always said Targhee could produce some worldclass skiers, too,” he recalls. “He coached Sage CattabrigaAlosa and helped him realize his potential, but I think we were all shaped by that mountain as much as anything. Sage was a senior at Teton High when I was a freshman. We thought he was so cool. He would give ski racing his full, and then he’d go off powder-hounding. We’d follow him and watch.” Now, of course, everybody follows Sage around the silver screen in Teton Gravity Research ski movies and throughout the pages of Powder magazine. Leake also took his ski-team training onto the world ski scene, competing in the International Free Skiing Association (IFSA) World Tour. He won the World Tour Qualifying in Kirkwood, California, and had several other top-ten finishes. He’s also formed a “pro” team to represent Grand Targhee: the Grand Targhee Resort Athlete Team. Members include Leake as the team manager, Gary and Max Mackenzie, Ryan Hawks, Lars Chickering-Ayers, and Danny Walton. Oh, and Leake’s got a real job as an engineer in Driggs, Idaho, the trendy town at the bottom of Ski Hill Road. But he still manages to ski every day, and is working with Targhee’s marketing department and events coordinator Andy Williams, helping put the resort on the map for freeride “extreme-skiing” competitions. “I want to help them build a reputation,” says Leake, “develop events, get locals involved and develop a team, bring in the media, see what we can create.” And it’s working. Hamby cited one of the big signature events this year, the Grand Targhee Jr. Freeskiing Open, an IFSA Junior Freeskiing Tour Stop, to be held in the cliffs on Peaked Mountain’s north face.


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“That’s where I first saw people going big,” says Mackenzie of the peak accessed by Sacagawea lift and with guided snowcat skiing off its summit. “When I was a kid, building jumps over on Mary’s, we’d see guys coming down Peaked’s north face, hucking A Shoot and Goal Post. I realized I wanted to do that.” Mary’s Nipple, the side-country peak with the controversial appellation, is the site of another signature event, the Mary’s Nipple Breast Cancer Fund Raiser in the Tetons. Its inaugural race raised $5,000 for St. John’s Oncology Fund as participants counted their laps and raised money from pledges by skiing the hike-accessed mountain adjacent to the ski-area boundary. There’s no shortage of action at Targhee this year, with a U.S. Ski Mountaineering Association randonneé event, a U.S. Ski Association Moguls Competition, and the signature Cardboard Box Derby to close out the winter. The resort is especially excited about the new iceclimbing facility. “For a resort to have access to top-roped ice climbing instruction is pretty unusual, as far as I know,” Hamby says. Christian Santelices and his company, Aerial Boundaries, offers ice-climbing classes at his new manmade ice flow, Teton Ice Park. The ice-climbing classes are taught by Santelices and his professional mountain guides. He is a permitee of the Caribou-Targhee National Forest and operates with Targhee’s cooperation. “This winter the focus is on presenting the most value for guests,” Hamby points out. “Aggressive deals, great snow – and lots of it – uncrowded slopes, and a variety of terrain make us one of the best values. We are a hidden secret.”— Jackson Hole Skier 

Amenities & Details Daily round-trip shuttle from Teton Village The Grand Targhee Ski & Snowboard School offers PSIA/AASI instruction for kids, adults, and adaptive programs. Tube Park, Magic Carpet Lift Lodging, restaurants, shopping, swimming pool, spa Nordic skiing, 15 km of groomed skating lanes and tracks through wooded glades and scenic meadows. Grand Targhee is a leader in environmental resort practices, honored with the prestigious 2009 Golden Eagle Award for Environmental Excellence.


Photo: Bob Woodall

One of the hallmarks of the Grand Targhee experience is a SnowCat Adventure on Peaked Mountain, complete with breathtaking views of the Grand Tetonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s west aspect. Twelve skiers or snowboarders utilize a huge powder reserve of 600 acres for up to 20,000 vertical feet of skiing per day. Follow the expert guides through expansive north-facing bowls, mellow gladed cruisers, and steep treed pitches. The mountain boasts 10 new trails this year, with average runs hitting 2,000 vertical feet. Some trails drop 2,200 vertical feet through a variety of pitches. The average number of runs per day is 10 to 12, and the daily vertical is from 14,000 to 20,000 feet. Riders should be at least intermediate level, able to link turns in all conditions, and should be comfortable riding in trees and able to avoid natural obstacles.

Frequent SnowCat riders can purchase the Cat Club Card and save on five full-days of cat skiing., 800-827-4433, 1.800.TARGHEE

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Hannah Horigan carves days-old backcountry powder in Grand Teton National Park.

Get a guide and go

Impossible to miss, from a plane or from the ground, Jackson Hole’s peaks hem its valley and hint at a glistening, white wonderland just waiting for the winter visitor. A world full of delight and breathtaking scenery beyond that offered by the ski resorts. The key to that world? Backcountry skiing.

An abundance of local guide services can make forays into the untracked and unpopulated slopes part of an unforgettable experience, one that might become a passion for newcomers or prod more-experienced backcountry skiers into returning again and again to sample the region’s endless backcountry heaven. And it pays to keep in mind that regardless of conditions at the resorts, there is almost always fresh powder somewhere in the backcountry—and backcountry guides know where to find it. Four main ski guide services in Jackson offer a variety of options for those seeking a backcountry ski adventure.


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Exum Mountain Guides As with all the guide companies, there isn’t one type of client, Exum’s president, Nat Patridge, says. “We get the full range: people who are absolute beginners in the backcountry to those who want to get into technical ski mountaineering and ski the Skillet Glacier on Mount Moran.” So, Exum Mountain Guides has outings that range from a mellow introductory ski day in the scenic Mail Cabin area of Teton Pass to winter descents of the Grand Teton. Knowledge and equipment are central to any recreation, and Exum’s novice clients gain insight into basic equipment use and safety. More advanced par-

ticipants can step up to full avalanche and skimountaineering courses. Exum offers an introductory group ski tour every Saturday, on Teton Pass or on the less demanding ski lines in Grand Teton National Park. The company promotes these Saturday tours as an affordable and enjoyable first-step into backcountry adventures, where equipment use, skills, and decision-making are practiced. For those beyond the beginner stage, Exum will help move clients into more rigorous undertakings, and educate the skier on all aspects of getting up and down something safely—including the skiing, technical climbing, and the serious

Photos: Wade McKoy

By Brigid Mander

judgment needed to negotiate the backcountry. “To be able to put all these skill sets to use and pull something together…it becomes a lifetime achievement, a very rich experience that ends in a beautiful ski descent,” says Patridge.

Jackson Hole Mountain Guides For over 50 years Jackson Hole Mountain Guides has been sharing the beauty of the Tetons and ski touring with clients from all over the world. JHMG offers a variety of day trips and courses, and like most guide services, can tailor the instruction and tours to the skiers needs. “We have a menu of things,” says Rob Hess, an owner of JHMG and a guide who has worked all over the world, including at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Alpine Guides. Hess also claims the distinction of being one of only a few guides nationwide with an International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) certification. “Skiers take away personalized education from a very experienced staff,” he notes. JHMG operates in almost all areas of the Tetons, as well as in some of the surrounding ranges, providing courses and individualized attention to help skiers reach their goals. “Most people we work with are turned on to being in the backcountry in some capacity,” says Hess. “They see the benefit of going to places that not a lot of other people get to go to. And if they don’t already see it, it becomes clear.”

Rendezvous Backcountry Tours Based in Alta, Wyoming, Rendezvous Backcountry Tours goes a step beyond the norm, with its overnight and hut-tohut trips in the heart of the Tetons, a favorite of experienced travelers and locals. They also guide day trips on the south side of Teton Pass as well as on mounts Glory and Taylor to the north, and in Grand Teton National Park. “Our main emphasis is downhill, untracked powder

First tracks in Cody Bowl, a special treat. Skier: Eric Henderson, a JHMR guide on the job

Max Hammer skis deep into the Wyoming outback. Yurts offer the comforts of home amidst glorious backcountry ski terrain.

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skiing,” says owner and ski guide Diane Jung. “We do a lot of day trips, where people can ski powder, improve their skills, and do things they wouldn’t have done on their own. But one of our unique features is that we can really take you out in the wilderness – and you get to stay in a warm cozy yurt (one of three operated by RBT). It’s a Canadian-style ski experience.” Jung stresses that potential clients need only to be decent skiers, but that being in shape is equally important. She adds that ascending a ski slope, where you “earn your turns,” makes each powder run that much sweeter. “In this day and age, people and technology are everywhere. We get a lot of repeat business; to be able to get out into the middle of nowhere and relax in a yurt draws people to us. You just need to wake up and step outside, and there is the untracked powder,” says Jung.

Plenty of room for a couple more laps.

Avalanche Education Ski Mountaineering Backcountry Skiing

Ski Guides Photo: Greg Collins

for the


Backcountry Experience

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Ice Climbing 800-239-7642 307-733-4979

Jackson Hole Mountain Guides & Climbing School

JHMG is an authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park and is permitted by the Bridger-Teton and Shoshone National Forests.

Photos: Wade McKoy

Jackson Hole Alpine Guides Each guide service has its unique aspect, and at Jackson Hole Alpine Guides, the ace up the resort’s sleeve is called ‘mechanized’ ski guiding. Ascending 4,000 feet to alpine terrain in 12 minutes is a game changer, thanks to the resort’s new tram. Although the day doesn’t generally take clients away from the other skiers, amazing ski lines covering all ability levels stretch out beyond resort boundaries to the north, south, and west, many of them funneling back to the base area. Guides can choose lines that demand a lot of hiking, or barely any, depending on the clients and the conditions. After a training session in safety and gear,

guides and clients leave the resort’s gates. “We take people out for an introduction to the backcountry, where our primary goal is to give them a good time,” says Eric Henderson, a 15-year veteran of guiding and a former head guide at the resort. “We also strive to educate people, and make sure they know a day or two with a guide isn’t license to head out of bounds on their own.” But it is not just for an introduction, says Henderson. “We also get people who come to our guide service to train for La Grave (France) or Alaska. The beauty of hiring a guide at the ski area is that the vertical relief we can provide with the tram is something that you can usually only get with a heli.” Clearly, Jackson Hole’s backcountry guide outfits have access to a whole world that is practically right outside a valley hotel room – but worlds away at the same time. For the winter visitor who’s made it this far, backcountry skiing is just a small step into terrain that most people will never get to see. And one more adventure to make a winter trip to Jackson Hole even more memorable. — Jackson Hole Skier


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SWIFT. SILENT. DEEP. A documentary film on the Jackson Hole Air Force

Air Force member Jimmy Zell drops S&S Couloir.


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reat ideas sometimes germinate in a fertile field. “I was hanging out in the tramline,” remembers ski-film producer Jon “JK” Klaczkiewicz, “hearing different stories about the way it used to be, getting clued in about the Jackson Hole Air Force.” He had just viewed Stacy Peralta’s classic skateboard documentary, Dogtown and Z-Boys. The year, 2001. “I realized the Air Force story was also worthy of a film,” he says. A few years passed, and on the heels of his production success with TGR’s High Life, and his own films, Reverence – the Kent Kreitler Story and Waiting Game, Klackiewicz started trying to sell his Jackson Hole Air Force film project to the usual suspects. “People didn’t really understand what I was trying to do,” he recalls. “I wanted to make a film that was credible with the core, but would also appeal to the mainstream. Translating that into financial support from sponsors is really, really hard.” Finally Jeff Wogoman at Cloudveil nibbled at the idea and provided startup money. JK teamed up with his friend, documentary filmmaker Troy Beauchamp, and the two went to work filming interviews with the main characters. “Once we got back into the edit room,” says Beauchamp, “we started realizing that these were truly great stories.” With the seed money already spent shooting the interviews, the two pushed on anyway, sifting through the extensive archival footage. “Howard Henderson’s Teton Video footage is unbelievable,” he says. “Old VHS. Washed out color. Maybe on any other project it wouldn’t have had the charm, but for ours it was perfect. Rick Hunt has a lot of amazing 16 mm film of his brother Jon and of Doug Coombs that nobody had seen before. And once we got into the still-photo archives of Wade McKoy and Bob Woodall, that Benny Wilson hides out in the fort. was the bridge.” A year later they had produced a rough cut. The funds to make the film, however, had still not surfaced. “We kept plugging along,” says Beauchamp. “We were able to get Warren Miller in the film, and he told us right off, ‘The only reason I’m doing this, I watched your rough cut. Nobody tells the story about skiing any more, and I like this and want to be a part of it.’” Finally, in January 2009, the film premiered in Salt Lake City at the XDance Film Festival. Their first audience feedback: complete and total engagement. The crowd loved it. “When you are editing a film over a two-year period,” Beauchamp says, “it’s hard to be objective. You think it’s great, but you really don’t know. At the X-Dance premiere we realized that this thing really translates.” Still without funding to purchase music and footage licensing for a commercial release, it appeared that no one except a few film-festival audiences would ever see the documentary. “We wanted the music to match the era,” said Klackiewicz, “and that type of music, classic rock and roll, cost a lot of money.” Then, in that dark 11th hour, Air Force member Rick Armstrong secured a couple of executive producers—local ski-culture aficionado Craig Atkins, and John Paul Beeghly, who produced the 2003 surf film, Step Into w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Photos: Wade McKoy


Photo by Max Mogren

First Descent

Dani deRuyter, on the approach.

by Jeff Burke On March 11, 2010, 29-year-old Dani deRuyter became the first woman to snowboard from the summit of the Grand Teton. She and her partner Max Mogren climbed for eleven hours, topping out at 1 p.m under calm, blue skies. It was Mogren’s second attempt in three days. The mental game played into her success as much as the physical. Their first attempt, on March 9, 2010, put them only on the Teepee Glacier, where dicey weather halted their efforts. “You have got to get into that mindset that you’re going to go as far as you can,” says deRuyter, “but if weather turns you back, you have to be okay with just turning around.” It was the right call. Two days later the mounLiquid. “They came to the plate when no one else did,” says Klaczkiewicz. “I’d like to give them a huge shout-out.” The film was finally released in September 2009. Since its release, the critically acclaimed SWIFT. SILENT. DEEP. has won a number of awards, including Best Documentary and Best Editing at the 2010 Powder Video Awards. It continues to screen in film festivals and ski towns across the country and has developed a cult following as a classic, must-see ski flick. “People have e-mailed us from all around the country and from Europe,” says Beauchamp, “asking, ‘Where can we see the film?’ ‘Is it coming to Norway?’ ‘Is it coming to Italy?’ ‘Thank you for making this film.’ ‘This is the best ski film I’ve ever seen.’ “That’s a charge, man. A really good buzz. I’ve been a cameraman for 15 years, and you just don’t get a story like this. It’s been a lucky endeavor: the story, the energy the people bring. This is a film full of characters.” SWIFT. SILENT. DEEP. is available on DVD w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

Dani deRuyter becomes first female to snowboard the Grand Teton

taineers started hiking before 2 a.m. in cold, clear conditions. Making it above treeline by mid-morning, they were amped by weather conditions. “There was zero wind, sunny and no expectations of afternoon storms,” she says. The Chevy Couloir is a throaty, bulging ribbon of ice that drains from the Ford into the Stettner. In winter it becomes the crux of the central ski-mountaineering route. DeRuyter had learned ice axe skills from earlier mountaineering forays, but technical ice was still new. “I was familiar with ice axes,” she says, “but not throwing one into a hunk of ice, with a quarter inch of the tip holding me.” Nonetheless deRuyter maintains they were focused on the goal, and fear simply took a back seat until they reached the summit. As for sliding into the record books, it’s like anything else. Or is it? Skiing is her strong suit. “When you drop in, it’s just skiing,” she maintains. “But when I strapped on my board, that’s when the butterflies hit, and I’m like, ‘Whoa, I have to snowboard this?’” Her uneasiness was short lived. “It all disappeared after the first turn,” she says. The technical skiing and rappelling went without drama as they descended under calm blue skies. Then they hit the Teepee Glacier. “All of Garnet Canyon was frozen over after being corn all day,” she says. “So the last section of skiing out was pretty miserable.” Now that the Icy Crown of the Teton Range is out of the way, what’s next? Plans for further mountaineering are on hold. “It’s too early to tell what the season is gonna bring, conditions wise,” she says. “I’m keeping my fingers crossed for La Niña.” 

in select ski shops throughout the country, through iTunes, and at — Jackson Hole Skier

Wray Landon, 30, loved to ski Wray Landon, 30-year-old Jackson resident, died in an avalanche February 21, 2010, while skiing the South Teton with a small party of experienced local ski mountaineers. Nicknamed “Everyday Wray” for his daily routine of long ski tours into the Tetons, Wray was, by many accounts, the consummate mountain man: ferociously strong, sharply intuitive, and deeply passionate. Landon was a former member of the Kelly Canyon Ski Team and worked as a resource specialist for the Teton Regional Land Trust in Driggs, Idaho. His fieldwork helped guide contract negotiations with landowners to protect private lands with conservation easements.

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Valdez’s Chugach Range a leading destination for Alaska-bound heli-skiers

Helicopter skiing in Alaska is many things to many people: a pilgrimage for the faithful ski addict, an annual junket for ski-industry businessmen, a stage for ski-flick crews. Once sampled, though, heli-skiing is a difficult concoction to give up. Below are some adventure stories told by guides employed in premier helicopter-skiing services on Thompson Pass. This is high-country lore. At its center, the peaks that tower above the infamous village of Valdez, where Alaskan heli-skiing started when local skiers began to dig their economy out of the Exxon oil-spill depression. To this day the Chugach Range remains the leading destination for Alaska-bound heli-skiers. These stories reveal why.

Alaska Rendezvous Heli-Guides

Photo: Chris Wilde

Theo Meiners, owner, operator, and lead guide of Alaska Rendezvous HeliGuides, is a ski instructor, a PSIA examiner, a Steep Skiing Camps instructor, and a race coach. He has worked as a ski patrol trainer on Snow King Mountain in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and in Chile at Centro de Ski, El Colorado. The flight into Get a Clue was itself memorable. The helicopter sailed up and over Fork-It-In and dove steeply through a sucker hole in the sky. The pilot used his ship to stomp out the landing zone, its rotor spinning, picking up snow and surrounding us with a tornado of powder that took five minutes to clear. OMG. I had to push open the door and clear away the snow. I stepped off the skid and sunk to my armpits. Oh no. Ski-boot penetration was chest deep. That’s not in the textbooks. It was cold, so cold the snowflakes were perfectly stellar crystals. Beautiful, each flake as big as a nickel, so much air in the snow. I swam back toward the ski basket. It was completely buried and out of sight. To my surprise, I could move. The snow was deep but it was mostly air. Oh Lord, could it be true? The question is always the same, “To go, or not to go.” The passengers exited, each one’s face shocked at the sight of deep-piled, perfect snow on the steepest run ever. Everyone was set. Thumbs up. The bird flew away. Another powder tornado covered us completely in

Alaska’s famous spines come in all levels of difficulty, including advanced mellow.


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Photo: Doug Workman

rotor wash. I used my shovel like a broom to make the landing perfect for the crews that followed, brushing away four to five feet of the perfect snow. Skis on. Over to the slope to assess the hazard. Again, brushing the snow away, looking at the interface of the new-snow-old-snow layer. A contact point, sticky old feathers and small sastrugi kept it holding. The crystals will fall to sloughs, but no cracks. No visual evidence of activity on adjacent mountains. High-speed sloughs demand high-speed powder descents. My crew of pro-riders were down, ready to ride. Avalungs, airbags, helmets. They where chompin’ and ready. The start was steep. Straight run to get speed. To float, slam your turns and keep rolling. Questions? Doubts? No falls! You could sink into oblivion. OK, it is a go. There is only one first run: my right as a guide, as an opener. Read it and eat it. No way back; just full-throttle flying with your feet barely in contact with Mother Earth. Nothing is finer. Words can describe experiences that some people may never otherwise know. Bliss. Nirvana. Heaven on Earth. Freedom. All are just words, though. This was something else. This was the best run of my life. Thank you, Lord. Thank you, universe. I’m alive today, more so, because of this gift. Dave Miller has skied multiple firstdescents in the Chugach Mountains, many with his friend Doug Coombs. He has been guiding skiers for 23 years at the Doug Workman and his JHSP cohorts’ tracks on the east face of Elephant, through the helicopter dome. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and for six years in Alaska. gon surf beach. That encounter led to his unthat caters to a broader audience, that doesn’t folOpening The Wall for the season, a 3,500- derstudy work with the Jackson Hole Air Force. low all the hype surrounding the crazy, gnarly, and foot, sustained 45- to 50-degree face in the Books, My first look at Alaska I saw a giant candy extreme. Alaska offers more than high-angle skiskiing with Doug Coombs. Bluebird day, kind of store. Not one you’d find at the super market. ing. We go to lower-angle glacial tongues for windy, one meter new snow. In-your-face cold More like Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. On skiers who don’t want to be on high-angle slopes. smoke. The snow had a thin, soft wind-slab layer We look at the layout of goodies presented. We’ve drugs. It was huge. on top. While I was skiing, high-speed sloughs In AK we have more than a little Willy Wonka got a Nirvana bliss for every type of skier, from were raging down the slope in front of me. Then, trolley car to cart us around the chocolate factory. upper intermediate through advanced. We’ve got as I’m watching for a possible avalanche, all of a We have these ships called helicopters that we use some Willy Wonka Chocolate for everyone. sudden the high-speed sloughs started blowing to go play in this gigantic candy store, to fly us 100-foot sheets of the wind-slab layer 50 feet into anywhere we want, when it’s safe, and experience the air! At this point I’m getting face shots watchthe biggest thrills, the biggest sugar rushes that ing this unbelievable visual 1,000 feet below. you could ever imagine. Another first-of-the-season opening, FortyEverybody that goes up to AK has this menScott Raynor, Valdez Heli-Ski Guides and-a-half Mile, skiing with Emily and Doug tal image: ‘It will be great.’ But once you get there owner and operator since 2000, when he purCoombs. Three feet of five-percent blower pow’. you realize, ‘I’ve just gotten myself into the great- chased the company from Doug Coombs, Cold smoke. Doug said, ‘Go for it, Miller.’ I cut the est ski experience that possibly will ever be.’ I was began his Alaska heli-ski guide career in 1996 top of the 45- to 50-degree couloir and perched quickly subjected to this phenomenon. doing snow-safety and film work. A member of myself on a spine and watched Doug drop in. All Relating Alaska to Jackson: instead of having the American Avalanche Association, Scott has you could see were the willow flagging stakes Pucker Face in front of me, ‘Oh cool, a 600- to worked in Alaska, Chile, and New Zealand as a strapped to his pack two feet above his head. Of 800-foot face, then a run out,’ I now have Pucker lead guide, an avalanche forecaster, and an opcourse he ripped the run. Em’ dropped in and Face times five, or times eight. It’s a completely erations director. looked like a mole trenching underground. It was different mindset of, ‘OK, I don’t quite see the We’d had a great week of skiing: stable snow, awesome that day! Double over-the-head snow! run-out, I don’t know how many rollovers I’m perfect corn, and sweet pow’ on the north asgoing to encounter, but everything I learned on Robb Maris came to the Alaska Renpects. A fast-moving storm rolled through Pucker Face better apply to this right now, to its dezvous family in 2007 after honing his skills overnight and it rained just a bit at sea level. I didabsolute maximum. The consequences are far in Jackson Hole since age 18. At 16, his eyes n’t expect more than a few inches of new snow on more serious. were opened to skiing the wild country by a the north aspects. Back then there were no reBut there is another side to Alaskan skiing chance meeting with Doug Coombs on an Oremote weather stations.

Valdez Heli-Ski Guides

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Photo: Wade McKoy

The pilot dropped us off on the shoulder, and but safe, and to relax and enjoy the run. I watched Mountaineering, has worked as a ski guide, an I skied over to the start of the run and dug a quick them ski down one by one and have never seen avalanche forecaster, and an avalanche instrucpit. On my way over I was shocked at the amount people so ecstatic. They were skiing the deepest tor. Doug also works for Jackson Hole Ski Paof new snow. My pit revealed a stable four feet of powder humanly possible in the wildest terrain trol, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, Alaska the driest, lightest snow I had ever seen. I clapped on earth. Mountaineering School, and High Mountain my hands and the powder floated up like dust in That was 13 years ago. I’ve skied steeper runs, Heli-Skiing in Jackson Hole. the still air. It rocked my world to see snow like this longer runs, and more exotic runs, but when VHSG offers the world’s steepest guided in Valdez and the middle of May. someone asks me about my best run in Valdez, heli-skiing. The following is an account of an exI gave my clients instructions to wait and that was it. perienced group who took advantage of good watch, and then started skiing. The run snow stability, good weather, and good is nothing radical—1,800 feet vertical, timing to do one of our more adven38-degree pitch, straight fall line—but turesome descents. it’s sweet. As the slope rolled over, The week started out rather sporty. though, the snow depth went overhead As the storm’s new snow settled we had and blinded me. a few avalanches to deal with, but the “Going Lights Out” is awesome in a boys did not appear rattled. My clients resort, but in Valdez on a big, open were about as strong and savvy as a slope—that’s different. Reminding myguide could hope for: Jackson Hole ski self that the snow stability was good, I patrollers Sparky Speckhals, Hollis kept skiing with no visibility whatsoever. Brooks, Al Walker, and Drew Kneeland. I was skiing under the snow for a It was my first year working on the ski good 45 seconds. The powder was stuffpatrol and it was my turn to show these ing my mouth as fast as I could spit it guys the ropes. out. It was so deep I was floating. Finally By the time the storm’s snow had setI felt the slope angle starting to lessen tled, the boys’ nerves were cauterized— and I came up for air. I stopped and they had grown accustomed to tight looked back at my tracks. It looked more Dropped off, waiting for the chopper to fly away. Then, all is quiet. mountaintop landing zones and the occalike a trench than a ski track. Trench Doug Workman, VHSG guide since 2004, sional “billy goating” into a couloir or onto a face. So Town. That’s what we call those rare conditions. with courses in Professional Avalanche Level 3, skiing into the unknown did not faze them a bit. I radioed to my clients that it was super deep, Winter Weather Forecasting, and AMGA Ski And the unknown it was, as not one of us had skied

Photo: Chris Wilde

down The Elephant before. The east face of The Elephant is a sustained 45-degree, 5,000-foot face with convoluted couloirs weaving in and out of each other. From the top all you can see is the Cleave Glacier at the bottom. You can’t see how you’re going to get there. Our pilot, Drew Rose, was second to none. On the snow and in the air, these guys had my back. And that’s what it takes to do a mountaineering-style descent, a descent that requires route finding, stable snow, a pilot who will put you there, and clients that are game and capable. We ogled the Elephant’s underside while descending cliff-bound couloirs that go all the way to the bottom. We skied in and out of the intertwined couloirs, onto faces, and into other couloirs, and finally past the ice cave to our helicopter sitting there waiting for us at the bottom. When I get to ski a gem like that, with a group like that, it can make their whole trip… and my whole season. Jeff Zell, VHSG guide since 1997, has skied and guided in the Chugach longer than any other guide on Thompson Pass. Jeff ’s history in the area dates back to 1993, when he placed second in the World Extreme Ski Championships. A certified PSIA Level 3 ski instructor, Jeff taught skiing and now guides at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

You always remember skiing the classics: Diamond, Pyramid, Elephant, Happy Top, Meteorite, The Wall. A couple years ago I had a good go at Meteorite—skied it four times in one season, after not having skied it for nearly 10 years. I think it’s one of the best ski runs in the Chugach, a long, steep ramp that you see every day driving from Valdez. You’re not expecting it to be blower at the end of April, but we got to the top and the wind was blowing up the thing and it must’ve been five below zero. I started off the top skiing only a couple inches new snow, but once I got onto the big ramp, the powder was three feet deep the whole way down. My face was so cold from the powder that I had an icecream headache. Another time, one of Coombs’s old clients, a big Will Ferrell fan, says something about Ferrell smushing two words together. So we found a peak where we could smush two runs together. Two side-by-side chutes, one called Tenacious, the other called Awesome. We skied them at the same time and called it Tenawesome. One side has big, puffy pillows and it narrows down into a couple couloirs. The other side has some steep spines. They are good, steep runs. It was boot-top powder that day, too. Sloughs running down. Tenawesome! — Jackson Hole Skier

The Chugach Mountain Range

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The Change Up High Mountain Heli Skiing gets Big Holes to fill with new terrain by Jeff Burke

The Sna ke River Range a t the sou thern

The Jackson-based outfit is already notable for its heli-skiing ventures into prized Wyoming backcountry, and is now poised to boost its prime offerings. The Big Holes form much of the western flank of Teton Valley, Idaho, which lies just over the pass from Jackson Hole. Lower in elevation, geography like Big Elk Mountain, Black Mountain, and Caribou Peak creates fewer technical demands than that of HMH’s designated terrain within the Palisades Wilderness Study Area.

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Big Elk alone boasts vast north-facing aspects, long vertical, wide-open, treed ridges, and safe routes—a whole day of skiing for a full group of people. “Clients who have skied with us in years past will get the opportunity to ski new runs in new terrain,” says HMH guide Doug Workman. “As a guide it is very exciting.” The opportunities in the Big Holes also afford HMH choices when weather approaches and shuts off the Palisades. “There will be times when


Enjoy the pure powder experience. Ski the high mountains where pristine bowls and forested glades go on forever. Box 173, Teton Village, Wy 83025 • 307-733-3274 • Fax 307-733-3529 • email:


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we can fly into the Big Holes when we can’t fly into the Palisades,” says Shick. “It gives us a variety of terrain that’s not all steep and exposed.” HMH’s package deals with Teton Springs Lodge and Spa and Grand Targhee Resort sweeten the company’s mix of amenities. Clients can base their entire vacation from a single location in Teton Springs. With a heli-pad just outside, and shuttles to Grand Targhee, guests can customize a week or weekend getaway to their needs. For example, a package might include heli-skiing, cat skiing and lift skiing, plus deluxe accommodations at the conveniently located Teton Springs. “There’s always a backup plan,” says Jim Kandolin, another HMH guide. “Depending on weather and conditions, clients can choose where and how to chase good snow.” HMH will still have to go through the complete permit process with the Caribou-Targhee National Forest to annex the Big Holes terrain into their special-use permit, which they intend to do. “But as we ski it this year,” says Shick, “we’ll be able to fine tune what works, what doesn’t. We’re not just drawing a big circle around the terrain. We’ll only annex into the terrain what is good and usable.” The Palisades WSA isn’t completely closed off either. A maze of federal rulings and processes has at times stymied the company’s efforts to operate in other nearby wilderness. Shick’s permits for the Gros Ventre Wilderness and the Jedediah Smith Wilderness, for example, were not renewed by the U.S. Forest Service. HMH has also moved away from areas where a growing number of backcountry skiers were vying for similar terrain. Shick remains optimistic and determined. Technically, he’s allowed 65 user days for his commercial operation (down from 800), which Shick plans to promote. “There will be private Wilderness Study Area tours where I can take 65 people total for the year into the Wyoming side of the WSA. I intend to use every single one of them—we’re not leaving. Helicopters will still be in the WSA.” — Jackson Hole Skier w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Photos: Wade McKoy

Always on the lookout for new and fresh skiing landscape, Jon Shick’s High Mountain Heli Skiing this season has set an additional course for Idaho’s stunning Big Hole Mountains.

Huskies power sled and riders through eye-popping Granite Creek scenery.


Husky-Powered Sleds

Photos: Bob Woodall

By Libby Riddles I grew up skiing, skating, and playing in the snow, so I also enjoy being outside in the winter. And I love animals. This would partly explain why I’ve lived in Alaska for 30-some years, and have logged thousands of miles on a sled pulled by the wildest, coolest dogs on the planet, Alaskan huskies. These 40- to 60-pound dogs can outrun, out-eat, and outlive most other breeds of dogs. The northern Natives invented dog sledding, an ingenious style of travel perfect for snow country. Huskies are one of the oldest breeds, and are almost undoubtedly descended from wolves. Their independence can make them as difficult to train as cats, but they also display the special loyalty and lovability of a dog. It’s the muscle that sometimes gets them into trouble. Don’t they w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

Mushers and dogs share a love for each other.

know that a dog nose imploding into a human lip is going to hurt a bit? Many of these beautiful northern dogs still retain their wolfish markings, even if we have bred them to be smaller and have shorter fur. The blue eyes or mixed blue and brown eyes are famous traits of the husky, although collies and a few other breeds exhibit this coloration as well. Huskies can sometimes be good pets. But be prepared for a dog that can’t be trusted running loose: running away from home is a husky’s favorite hobby! They also sometimes enjoy eating small animals and fighting with other dogs. So if you can accept their wildness and keep them out of trouble, they can be great companions. Modern-day huskies may be purebreds, but 2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R


are more likely mixed breed “Alaskan” huskies. Strains of hunting hound, pointer, saluki, or others may color the bloodlines of the dogs traditionally from the native villages. These dogs can run a hundred miles a day in the big races like the Iditarod and Yukon Quest. And when the urge strikes them, they throw back their muzzles and sing to the moon like their ancestors, an eerie northern song. The musher has to know all the quirks of each dog, and has to teach them all to get along together while at the same time getting them in shape. Learning how to care for these high-powered canine athletes is an art. When the team gets to the point of being well trained and cooperating smoothly with the musher, it is an unbelievably satisfying way to travel. The speed and power of the dogs is a surprise to some; a well-trained team can really cover some ground. It is almost soundless travel, not much more noise than a wolf pack on the run. A little clinking from dog-collar rings and tags, the creak of the sled, and the whooshing of the runners gliding over the snow are the sole sounds accompanying the musher. Only in Hollywood do sled dogs bark on the run. And the musher speaks only when needed, commanding with a soft “gee” or “haw.” My dogs don’t mind if I also sing a bit, as long as I don’t get too rowdy. A few ears will flick back, and I know it’s time to behave. It’s true that the musher often gets to stand on the sled runners as the dogs trot down the trail. But if you think this means

The Gros Ventre Mountains tower over Granite Creek trail.

just standing still, guess again. The musher has to be constantly watching the trail ahead and adjusting her balance accordingly. A miscalculation may throw her over the handle bar if she’s not paying attention. What a rush it is, leaning and ducking, kicking and running on the hills behind the dogs, one of the pack! And there’s magic in the stories left tracked into the frozen surface of the snow, tales of the few stealthy creatures who inhabit the wintertime. Otter slides and wolf tracks four times the size of my biggest dog. What are they hunting here? The dogs glide quietly over the snow, making their own tracks, fitting gracefully into the still wilderness. Moose tracks will put us on the alert; a moose in a bad mood can be lethal to sled dogs. Winter’s short days are conducive to monster sunrises and sunsets. Add golden orange light to drop-dead beautiful wild country, the symmetry of the dogs and their

The musher has to know all the quirks of each dog, and has to teach them all to get along together while at the same time getting them in shape. The speed of dog blurs the lines between modern life and days gone by.

The 16th Annual International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race (IPSSSDR) begins in Jackson on Friday, January 28, 2011, and ends in Park City, Utah, on February 5. The 2010 Jackson race send-off starts with the Jackson Hole Winter Fest/Pig Roast on the town square at 5 p.m. Music, food booths, and lots of hot chocolate keep the crowds in a festive mood. The race begins at 6:30 p.m. and is followed by a torchlight parade and fireworks show on Snow King Mountain at 8 p.m. The next day, the race heads on to stages in Lander, Pinedale, Big Piney/Marbleton, Alpine, Kemmerer/Diamondville, Bridger Valley, Evanston/Lyman, and the big finish in Park City, Utah. The (IPSSSDR) was founded in 1996 by local musher Frank Teasley to make sled dog racing more accessible to the public. With its unique “stage-stop” format, the race breaks in a different community each night. Wyoming’s small towns host festivities for mushers and spectators that include banquets, barbeques,


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The festive ceremonial start of the race takes place on the Jackson Town Square.

Dutch-oven dinners, pancake feeds, snowshoe softball, dog parades, and ice-sculpture demonstrations. Teasley attributes the IPSSSDR popularity to its small-town Wyoming hosts, who attract

mushers to the race. “We hear each year how much the teams enjoy meeting and staying with the people of Wyoming.” —

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Photos: Bob Woodall (3); Wade McKoy (1)


On the trail, the dogs relish their work.

shadows as they run, and the artful aspect of this ancient sport is hard to miss. It is all so beautiful – and almost impossible to capture on film. But still I try. When dog mushing started, it was a Native thing. But then the explorers and gold seekers took up the habit. Today there are Native mushers still involved with dog mushing, but the sport has truly gone global. Mushers can be found not only in Alaska, Canada, and Greenland, but also in New Zealand, Scotland, Scandinavia, The Rockies, even in South Africa. In cool climates without reliable snow, mushers train and race “dry-land” style by using wheeled rigs such as lightweight titanium trikes, dog scooters, and bicycles. Or they simply run behind the sled dog, a method called cani-crossing. People with just one or two athletic dogs can be mushers, too. A lot of mushers run pointers or pointers crossed with

huskies. These types of dogs could never sleep a night out on the snow, but can they ever burn up a trail, even if they don’t look like “sled dogs!” There is a small number of professional lifelong mushers today, mushers like multiple and current champion Lance Mackey, four-time champion Jeff King, cancer survivor Deedee Jonrowe, the “Guy From Montana” (Doug Swingly), and Jackson Hole’s Frank Teasley, to name a few. Other mushers mostly do tours with their dogs, or a combination of racing and giving tours, a more reliable way to support a sled-dog habit than racing, and a perfect solution for dogs that may not be fast enough for a racing team. Even the littlest musher in the littlest town is

part of the mushing family. We have fun get-togethers and also support each other during the hard times. We come from many different walks of life, but share our love for the peaceful moments out on the wild trails – and for winter. Mostly, though, it’s the dogs we love, these beautiful, exuberant spirits who teach us so much and share their love, their enthusiasm for a job well done, and a life well lived. Libby Riddles, the first woman to win the Iditarod Sled Dog Race, is a lecturer and author of three books, Race Across Alaska, Storm Run, and Danger: the Dog Yard Cat. She lives in Homer, Alaska, and has a kennel of 40 Alaskan Huskies.

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JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG TOURS Hosted by Jackson Hole’s own 8-Time Veteran Iditarod Musher, Frank Teasley A recipient of Leonhard Seppala Humanitarian Award • Learn Mushing First Hand Drive your own sled team! • Jackson based tours in the Bridger-Teton National Forest • Meals, transportation, supplemental clothing provided • Half-Day and Full-Day Tours, Reservation Required • Serving the immediate and surrounding area • Enjoy a soak in a natural 105° hot springs on our famous Granite Creek Canyon tour For Reservations or Information

Call: 307-733-7388

JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG TOURS P.O. Box 1940, Jackson Hole, Wy 83001

Photos by Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy/Focus Productions, Inc.

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Snowmobiles can quickly carry riders deep into breathtaking mountain terrain.


In most of the country, winter and snowstorms are tolerated, but not embraced. Well, not here. After all, this is snow country! With so much of the white stuff carpeting Wyoming’s mountains each winter, learning to love it is a necessity. And a great way to love this plush white carpet is astride a snowmobile. So saddle up and head into the Great White Open.

Can I ride a snowmobile? Snowmobiles are pretty stable items. If you can drive an automobile and you have an opposable thumb and forefinger, you should be able to ride down a groomed trail to, say, Old Faithful Geyser. You squeeze the throttle with your right thumb and the brake with your left hand. It may take a few miles to get the feel of the trail, but most riders can master the basics quickly. Riding off-

trail, though, will require a bit more experience. Off-trail snowmobiling – prohibited in national parks – is a skill-intensive sport. And just as driving a car down the road doesn’t qualify one to race in the Monte Carlo Grand Prix, steering a snowmobile along groomed trails is vastly different from finessing it through woodlands and powder fields at breakneck speeds.

the best snowmobile landscapes available in the world, a veritable winter playground for snowmobile enthusiasts. Snowmobiles provide quick access to even the deepest reaches of the winter backcountry. Within a few minutes you can be far from the highway and immersed in the Rocky Mountains’ winter beauty. Togwotee Pass sometimes reveals spectacular Teton vistas to backcountry snowmobilers.


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Photos: Bob Woodall (1); Wade McKoy (3)

Northwest Wyoming straddles the stunning Continental Divide and is blessed with some of

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Jackson Hole SNOWMOBILE TOURS Specialist in Scenic & Backcountry Tours ?

Snowmobiles are popular with skiers and snowboarders for accessing remote backcountry terrain.

Guided or go it alone? If you have never snowmobiled before, by all means go guided. All tour companies offer guided-trip packages. They usually provide transportation from your lodging and they all supply the warm clothes needed for a comfortable experience. Continental or hot breakfasts and hot lunches usually round out the package. The guides, of course, are trained in snowmobile and winter safety and have a handle on the area’s flora, fauna, and history. Modern machines have evolved into a whole new beast from those of just 10 years ago. New designs and increased power allow ‘slednecks’ to access more extreme terrain than ever before. But along with greater access comes greater danger. A large percentage of backcountry avalanche fatalities are snowmobilers, and riders should be mindful of this. Unguided rentals, though, are a great way to see the country at one’s own pace, except in Yellowstone, which is closed to all but commercially guided parties. But be sure to be prepared for severe winter conditions, and know where you are going. Wyoming winters can be painfully brutal for the unprepared. Just ask Olympic Gold Medalist Rulon Gardiner. After getting sepw w w. j h s k i e r. n e t



? Yellowstone ? Old Faithful ? ? Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone ? ? Granite Hot Springs ? ? Continental Divide Trail ? Togwotee Pass ? 2 – 3 Day All-inclusive Tours of Yellowstone available.

Breakfast, lunch and transportation to and from your lodging. Let our expert guides show you the beauty of the Teton Mountains this winter . Go-On-Your-Own Rental Sleds – Best Deal in Town email: P.O. Box 11037 • 945 W. Broadway Jackson, WY 83002

1-800-633-1733 or 307-733-6850

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The Best Brands • Selection • Gear

Bison in Yellowstone rest and forage, seemingly oblivious to passing snowmobiles.

arated from his snowmobile party, he grew disoriented and then bogged down his machine. He spent a night out in below-zero temperatures, and lost a toe to frostbite because of it. So never head into the backcountry alone!

cut the number of machines allowed to enter the park. This number is spread among the four entrances. Therefore it is extremely important to book a trip early. The plan allows up to 318 commercially guided, Best Available Technology (BAT) snowmobiles, and up to 78 commercially Where to go? There are several major snowmobile destina- guided snowcoaches in a day in Yellowstone for the 2010-2011 winter seasons. The plan also contions in northwest Wyoming, tinues to provide for motorized each with its own special features. oversnow travel over Sylvan Pass There are several Some are snowmobile playand the East Entrance road. grounds, others are primarily for

major snowmobile destinations in northwest Wyoming, each with its own special features.

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Tops on many travelers’ lists is Yellowstone National Park. Snowmobiling through the park is a great way to experience this wonderland. The steam from geysers and hot springs is accentuated by the cold, crisp air. Herds of bison and elk graze the geyser basins, where the earth’s heat keeps the snow melted away from the summer grasses. If you’ve never been to Yellowstone, then a visit should be on your must-do list. Winter access to the park is from December 15 to March 15. But make no mistake: Yellowstone is not a snowmobile playground! The machine is merely personal transportation through the scenic and natural wonders of the park. Travel is restricted to the groomed roadways. All off-road travel is prohibited and the speed limit is enforced at 35 mph from West Yellowstone to Old Faithful and at 45 mph on all other park roads. Snowmobiles actually offer less access than do automobiles in the summer. Contrary to some misperceptions, snowmobiles and riders cannot wander wherever they want in the park. All this info will be stressed by your guides, though, as private citizens are no longer allowed to snowmobile in the park, even if they have the required four-stroke machines. New National Park Service restrictions have

Granite Hot Springs

While Yellowstone abounds with hot springs, taking a plunge in one of them is not an option. Not only are most too hot, but swimming in them is illegal. So if you crave a dip in a 100-degree pool in the great outdoors, head to Granite Hot Springs. The natural hot spring-fed pool, set amidst the imposing Gros Ventre mountains, is just part of a day trip up Granite Creek. Unlike in Yellowstone park, snowmobilers can go off-trail and romp in the powder fields that the area offers. This would be a good break-in for those who want to nudge the snowmobile learning curve.

Togwotee Pass If you want to really boot it up a notch, though, head to the Togwotee Pass area, where thousands of square miles of terrain await exploring. This is true powder-busting, cornice-bashing, zoom-across-a-wide-open-field-of-powder country. But there’s more to world-class snowmobiling than wide-open terrain. Amid the Gros Ventre, Absaroka, Wyoming, and Wind River mountain ranges, the scenery is second to none. The visibility on clear days can reach upwards of 150 miles. The Breccia Cliffs and the Pinnacle Buttes tower over this playground and the Tetons loom majestically in the distance.

Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail Snaking its way through the Togwotee Pass area is the Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail (CDST). The groomed trail follows the Wind River Range and includes trail systems in the Lanw w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Photos: Bob Woodall

viewing nature’s wonders. Togwotee Pass, Granite Hot Springs, Green River Valley, and the Greys River Valley are the playgrounds, while Yellowstone and Gros Ventre areas are for observing wildlife and the natural world.

Union Pass, Green River Valley

Overnight and Multi-day Trips If this menu of options sounds like too much to digest in one day, consider a multi-day excursion. String together several of these destinations with overnight stays in remote, snow-bound lodges. Start at one end of the trail and emerge at the other, never having to backtrack. Consider a three-night excursion through Yellowstone, staying at a different lodge each night. So whatever you may be seeking in a snowmobile experience, the palette of opportunity is broad. Don’t be afraid of the machine: just jump on and ride the magic carpet of the Great White Open.

Throw Powder Over Your Hood 2.5 million acres of epic snowmobile country for powder riding, hill climbing & cruising 600 miles of groomed trails 500" average annual snowfall at 8,600 ft

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Under permit of the Bridger-Teton National Forest * Yellowstone tours are guided only.

GRANITE HOT SPRINGS Swim in the Granite Hot Springs 104 degree pool!

TOGWOTEE PASS At 10,000 feet this tour’s powder snow is unmatched.

GROS VENTRE ADVENTURE View more wildlife & beautiful scenery than on any other High Country tour.

GREYS RIVER Unforgettable scenery and exciting rides await you at the base of these giant mountains.

OVERNIGHT SNOWMOBILE ADVENTURE Our trips can be specially tailored to suit families and groups. We can combine any or all of the areas we represent.

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Wildlife viewing is high on many visitors’ todo lists. And a trip up the Gros Ventre Valley offers riders just that – and then some. Starting just above the Gros Ventre Slide, the trail closely follows the summer road. Since this is critical winter game habitat, travel is mostly restricted to the roadway. Willow bottomlands are prime moose habitat and bighorn sheep inhabit the cliffs to the north of the trail. Twenty miles up the Gros Ventre is an elk feeding ground. In the past few years these wintering elk have attracted the attention of recently re-introduced wolves, so wolf sightings have become a distinct possibility. Beyond the elk feeding grounds the terrain opens up and affords some off-trail riding. But please respect the wildlife closure areas. Disturbing wildlife causes stress, and that stress can cause the unnecessary death of an animal.

South of Jackson, near the mouth of the Snake River Canyon, lies the Greys River Valley, one of the locals’ favorite spots. This playground serves up everything a snowmobiler could want: towering mountains, great trail riding, and unlimited backcountry, the ultimate riding and powder-hunting grounds.

Enjoy natural wonders while snowmobiling in the nation’s 1st national park.


Gros Ventre River

Greys River Valley



The 100-degree waters of Granite Hot Springs are a popular snowmobile destination.

Southeast of Togwotee Pass lies the sprawling Union Pass and the Upper Green River Valley region. The CDST accesses this area from both the Pinedale and Dubois sides of the Wind River Range. The Pinedale/Green River side of the mountains has a trail system of over 135 miles, while the Dubois side has over 150 miles of trails through some of the most scenic country in the West. Breathtaking tracts of open country, with mountains in view everywhere and snow depths reaching 10 feet, just beg to be explored.


der, Pinedale, Dubois, Togwotee Pass, Jackson Hole, and Gros Ventre areas. The CDST runs from Lander (the southeast end) to West Yellowstone (the northwest end). It generally parallels the Continental Divide and actually crosses it four times. The variety of terrain, trail, snow and scenery is unequalled anywhere else. The distance from Lander through Grand Teton National Park to Flagg Ranch at the south gate of Yellowstone National Park is 270 miles. This sparkling chain strung among the mountains is decorated with many jewels along its length. A vast network of groomed side trails connects a patchwork of open meadows.


T0URS AVAILABLE: • Granite Hot Springs • Continental Divide • Yellowstone – travel by snowmobile or snowcoach • Gros Ventre • Togwotee • Greys River


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ire Chris Fezm

ry By Kurt Hen


aul Schafer is addicted to skiing—not a remarkable statement within Jackson Hole’s community of devoted athletes. His passion, though, is distinct: Schafer is completely blind. Born with a deteriorating visual condition that causes severe and deep retinal damage, Schafer lost all sight by the end of his senior year in high school. True to his persistent nature, he continued in school and earned advanced degrees in psychology and philosophy, and kept physically active swimming, hiking, biking, and jumping horses. Near the end of college, Schafer traveled to a small east coast resort for an experiment in downhill skiing. It only took one dose. The deal was sealed, and another ski junkie signed on. Schafer currently lives in Virginia, where he works as an Information Technology and Accessibility Specialist for the U.S. Government. He travels west to ski three or four times each winter and typically lands in Jackson Hole on several of those excursions. “After skiing in Vail for many years,” he says, “I had heard that resorts in Utah and Jackson Hole, Wyoming, could challenge and teach much to serious skiers.” That was in December 2003. He’s been returning ever since. “I like the friendly and professional folks in the Adaptive Program,” he says, “and all the others I’ve gotten to meet, ski, and socialize with at the resort, from the folks who maintain the equipment to the owner herself.” This March, Schafer will participate in his third Adaptive Steep and Deep Camp, a program aimed at top adaptive skiers with various disabilities for four days of advanced, aggressive skiing. “I like the variety of runs and conditions,” he says. “I don’t believe I’ve reached my limits in becoming a better all-mountain skier. The resort staff have more to offer me toward that goal.”

Because of his blindness, Schafer sees no shapes, shades, or tones. He navigates the ski hill through sounds, smells, and the communication system that evolves between him and his guide. And he rips when skiing untracked powder or groomers. But he faces difficult challenges when skiing crud and bumps, not to mention avoiding hazards like rocks, trees, stumps, signs, and other skiers who may clog the fall line. The obstacles are endless. But Schafer skis it all. He’s a regular on the tram, skis the Lower Faces and Hobacks, and is the only blind skier to descend Tower 3 Chute and Alta 1.

I was out on the hill in a sitski four months after being wounded – it was an awesome experience.

Will he ever ski Corbet’s? “Never say never,” he says, grinning broadly, his take on life unmistakable and inspiring. Chris Fezmire began skiing at age 12 back east in the Poconos. He switched to snowboarding and became an avid rider for the next 15 years. He joined the Marines and was deployed to Iraq, where he was injured in October 2009. “I was on a short-range security patrol when we ran over some land mines. They went off about two feet from my feet.” Fezmire lost both legs above the knees. “I discovered adaptive skiing through the recreation therapy program at Walter Reed. I was out on the hill in a sitski four months after being wounded – it was an awesome experience.” For the last several seasons, the Jackson Hole Mountain Sports School’s Adaptive Program has been following this lead to provide opportunities for Wounded Warriors. Through a partnership with Teton Adaptive Sports, Adaptive Adventures,

Disabled Sports/USA’s Wounded Warrior Disabled Sports Project, and the Terra Resort Group, JHMR Adaptive has been able to offer alumni disabled veterans the opportunity to attend its Adaptive Steep and Deep Camp. Fezmire has attended the first two camps and his participation is helping to define the program. “What attracted me to Jackson Hole,” he says, “was the chance to learn and ski on some of the most challenging terrain in the U.S. My first camp was definitely a mile marker in my skiing life.” Last season’s camp saw difficult snow conditions, but Fezmire wrenched a positive outcome from the experience. “I think it made me an even better skier, being on that terrain with not-sofriendly conditions,” he says. Fezmire lives in southern Colorado, near Salida, and feeds his ski addiction regularly on his home hill, Monarch Mountain. A talented monoskier, his style is strong and aggressive: no question he’s a Marine and just the kind of athlete that the camp hopes to attract. He’s planning to attend the third Adaptive Steep and Deep this March. JHMR is proud and honored to have Fezmire involved. Jackson Hole’s Adaptive Ski Program has been serving skiers with disabilities for over 20 years. There are opportunities for all ages and ability levels in downhill skiing, snowboarding, cross country skiing, and snowshoeing. Teton Adaptive Sports is a chapter of Disabled Sports/USA and a Wyoming 501(c)3 nonprofit. Together they are working to insure that all the remarkable possibilities that are in Jackson Hole are in fact opportunities for all. TAS supports adaptive skiing by providing adaptive ski equipment, instructor and volunteer training, and skier sponsorship. For more information on Adaptive Winter Sports or to find out how you might support this effort, contact Ryan Burke at 307-690-4774, or Kurt Henry at 307-6993553,

Photos courtesy Kurt Henry


fer Paul Scha

Alpine Medical Advice Skiers in extreme competitions sometimes get away with a lot more than the general public when it comes to surviving ugly falls unscathed.

Accidents happen, or so the saying goes. Avoiding the known dangers specific to high mountains, though, can help keep a perfectly good ski vacation, well, perfect. “Certain conditions related to the mountain environment can cause injuries,” says Dr. Jeff Greenbaum, Teton Village Clinic Medical Director for St. John’s Medical Center Emergency Department. “Cold-related injury, injury due to altitude itself, and injury related to the icy environment—including falls on ice and motor vehicle collisions—are all preventable.” Dr. Jeff, as he’s called by his fellow skiers and with whom he regularly reconnoiters, has plenty of firsthand experience with these pitfalls. He offers some practical advice that could keep your interaction with the doctor along the lines of skier-to-skier rather than patient-to-doctor.

Photos: Bob Woodall

Cold-related Injuries: Frostbite and Frostnip Most avid Jackson Hole skiers and snowboarders have felt old Jack Frost nipping at their nose. A run down Rendezvous Bowl on a bitter day can easily turn pliable flesh hard and icy white. “Keep it covered,” says Greenbaum, referring to the tips of the nose and ears, and the cheekbones. “That’s one big mistake many visitors make—not properly covering those areas in extreme cold.” Be aware of extreme-cold and wind-chill w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

warnings. Keep an eye on your ski partner’s flesh tones and if their facial parts turn white, get yourselves out of the cold immediately. For minor cases, staying indoors for just a few minutes often does the trick. “There’s not a lot a doctor can do except to warm you up,” he says, “and the best method for that is in a hot bath, soaking in 102º F water until the numbness and discoloration is resolved. That goes for hypothermia, too.”

Altitude Sickness “If you live below elevation 5,000 feet, which, by the way, includes ski areas in Vermont and Whistler, BC,” says Greenbaum, “traveling to higher altitudes can cause altitude-related illnesses.” The most common one is acute mountain sickness (AMS). Symptoms, which may be mild or severe, include headache, fatigue, lightheadedness, lack of appetite, frequent waking from sleep, and nausea. The most common prevention for AMS applies more to high-altitude climbers than to resort skiers and snowboarders. The mantra “climb high, sleep low,” directs a climber to ascend slowly over a period of several days, which allows the body to adjust. “For vacationers to Jackson Hole, though,” notes Greenbaum, “hydration is the numberone protection against altitude sickness. Part of the acclimatization process results in increased urination, so that means you must re-hydrate.” Another major factor contributing to AMS is over-exertion; so take it easy on the slopes during

the first few days at altitude. “Young athletic folks often exercise hard the day before their ski trip to Jackson Hole,” he says, “and that in itself can lead to altitude sickness. Arrive on your vacation rested, not exhausted.” During the first few days at altitudes above 5,000 feet, it helps to avoid alcoholic beverages and sleeping pills. Those drugs inhibit proper acclimatization. Coffee drinkers are in luck, though. If you drink it regularly, don’t stop. It’s safe at high altitudes and suddenly stopping can actually cause AMS-like symptoms. Preventative medicine is an option for those who’ve previously had AMS, or for those with a history of heart or lung disease or sleep apnea. Consult your physician before coming to altitude. If you develop signs of AMS you should return to valley elevations. Do not go higher until your symptoms have resolved, which usually occurs within 24 hours. Rest and avoid drinking alcohol and taking sedatives or sleeping pills as you recover. Aspirin and other anti-inflammatories can help prevent a headache that often occurs with AMS. The more serious life-threatening high-altitude illnesses – cerebral edema and pulmonary edema – are possible but rarely occur in resort settings. Symptoms include exhaustion, drowsiness, severe weakness, confusion, irritability, cough, and breathlessness at rest. High-altitude climbers more commonly contract these illnesses, which can be deadly and require immediate medical attention. More detailed information on high-altitude illnesses is available online at

Snow Blindness If you think “ultraviolet keratitis” sounds bad, try pouring some sand in your eyes for a real preview of this medical condition. Snow blindness 2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R




Avoiding orthopaedic injuries

Why they occur with skiers

by Jeremiah Clinton, M.D.

As one might expect, skier experience is the biggest factor in avoiding orthopaedic injuries during your vacation. That being said, most mistakes that people make leading to fractured bones, torn ligaments, and pulled muscles are avoidable with the use of common sense. Remember: not all runs are created equal. A black diamond at Jackson Hole may not be the same as a black diamond at your local resort. The rating system is area specific, so be careful when you start making those first turns. Work into the harder runs as you develop a better understanding of the mountain. Fatigue plays a major role in ski and snowboard injuries. The “last run” phenomenon is real. Many visitors to Jackson come from much lower elevations, and with the decrease in oxygen, the body will fatigue even faster. If you are planning a ski vacation, make use of the time before you arrive and do sport-specific training such as a dry-land ski-fitness class. If you can’t find a ski specific workout, engage in aerobic fitness three days a week and include interval training. Do strength training the other two days, and include lower and upper body as well as core strengthening. Also, train for the movements of skiing with plyometric and agility exercises. A few days with a personal trainer to set up a program will allow

by Dave Khoury, MD

Some of the most common skiing injuries involve the ligaments of the knee. A ski can generate tremendous torque through the knee, particularly when the bindings do not release. When the force transmitted through the knee exceeds the capacity of the ligaments and muscles to resist, injury can occur. The most common knee injuries are to the medial collateral ligament (MCL) and the anterior cruciate ligament (ACL), while occasionally more than one ligament is injured. The severity of knee injuries varies widely. Partial injuries to the MCL tend to heal without surgery and a strong, stable knee is often achieved in a matter of weeks. ACL injuries tend to not heal, and often surgery is required to rebuild the ACL and stabilize the knee. Not all knee injuries can be prevented, but there are some steps we can take to protect our knees before and during the ski season. Beginning the ski season with good strength and conditioning can minimize risks. Improving strength in the hamstrings and quadriceps can help protect the knee ligaments. Strong core muscles can help stabilize the body over the knees, while also reducing the risk of knee injury. With good conditioning we are less likely to fatigue at the end of the day, which predisposes the knee to injury. A strengthening program in a gym is a good place to start. A pre-season ski-conditioning class is another great way to hit the slopes with strength and endurance. Here’s a technical tip to help protect the knee while skiing: Most ACL tears occur when the skier is off-balance to the rear (in the “back seat”), with the hips below the level of the knees and the uphill arm back and behind. This position translates significant torque to the ACL. In order to prevent this fall pattern, maintain balance and control while keeping the arms forward and the hips over the knees. The knee is particularly susceptible to injury with snow sports. I hope these tips will help you safely enjoy our Wyoming winter.

you to enjoy your time on the slopes, decrease your risk of injury, and may be money well spent. And listen to what your body is trying to tell you: when your legs are Jell-O and every turn is on the verge of sending you out of control, call it a day and enjoy some après ski activities. Proper equipment is crucial. The number of knee injuries and lower leg fractures has decreased significantly with the advancement of binding technology. However, having improperly fitted equipment not only doesn’t help, but also may increase your risk of injury. Shoulder injuries account for roughly one-third of skiing-related injuries and almost half of snowboarding injuries. Using good technique and sound judgment, to avoid hard falls, are probably your best tools for preventing these injures. Finally, remember that broken bones will usually heal but spinal cord and brain injuries are devastating– and often permanent. Wearing a helmet is the only protection you can provide to your brain. Most spinal cord injuries occur during jumps and at high speeds. If you are going to drop a cliff, be certain of your landing zone and assess for unseen obstacles or varied snow before dropping in. Most importantly, using common sense can keep you on the slopes and out of the emergency room or, worse yet, the operating room.

Doctors Dave Khoury and Jeremiah Clinton are orthopaedic surgeons practicing at Teton Orthopaedics in Jackson.

St John’s Medical Center Three convenient Jackson Hole locations treating everything from breaks & sprains to major health emergencies. Emergency Department, 625 E. Broadway

307 733 3636

Family Health & Urgent Care, 1415 S. Highway 89

307 739 8999

Clinic at Teton Village, Cody House, Teton Village

307 739 7346

Dial 911 in case of emergency


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continued from page 67 hurts and, on top of the pain, you can’t see very well. It’s easily prevented, though, by putting on protective sunglasses or goggles. But it’s also easy to forget the eyewear on a cloudy day when the danger still lurks. “The sun’s UV rays are invisible,” says Greenbaum, “and they reflect off the snow equally in bright sun and cloudy conditions.”

Physicians for the US Ski Teams Joshua Beck MD James Champa MD Jeremiah Clinton, MD Heidi Jost MD A toboggan ride down the mountain isn’t the best way to meet ski patrollers.

Injury Due To Icy Environment Busting your noggin on the sidewalk after slipping on the ice could be the most common way people wind up in the emergency room. “We see lots of slips in the parking lot and on sidewalks that result in broken hips or arms, back injuries (including breaks), and head injuries (including lacerations),” says Greenbaum. It pays to pay attention to surface conditions, even when it doesn’t snow. Melt-freeze cycles are notorious for causing icy conditions. Wear footwear with good tread. Sports shops carry Yaktrax that are easily attached to any shoe and turn even slippery tennis shoes into ice grippers. It also helps to walk in a shuffling gate rather than in long strides. Driving a vehicle on slick roads without the proper tires and winter driving skills not only endangers yourself and your passengers, it also puts all other drivers and pedestrians at risk of injury or death. So, please: if you’re not a pro at driving in snow country, consider taking the START bus. The Southern Teton Area Rapid Transit is a convenient public transportation system. Pick up a schedule at any of the bus stops, or online at

David Khoury MD Peter Rork MD Geoffrey Skene, DO

All Your Orthopaedic Needs Under One Roof

• Sports Medicine • Fracture Management • Arthroscopy • Knee & Shoulder • Hand & Upper Extremity • Foot & Ankle • Spine Care • Rehabilitation

Injury Due To Fatigue You’ve likely heard it before, but it’s more than just clever wordplay: most ski accidents happen on the last run of the day. Of course, if you get injured while skiing, it probably will be your last run that day. But last run fatigue is no joke. “The majority of our ski-and-snowboard patients arrive in the ER between noon and four,” says Greenbaum. “And they usually tell a classic, late-day ski story in which they were tired.” He explains that if more people realized the increased susceptibility to injury when fatigued from skiing ‘The Big One,’ the more specific skiand-snowboard injuries due to fatigue would drop substantially.

Photo: Bob Woodall

Injury Due To Improper Equipment Boots that don’t fit correctly, bindings improperly adjusted, the wrong skis on the right day—these are all things sure to cause trouble for vacationers not quite prepared. “I’ve heard stories like, ‘I put on my sister’s skis and jumped into Corbet’s,’” says Greenbaum. “Or, ‘Coombs made it look easy, so I jumped next and my bindings exploded!’” Some categories of improper equipment: too old to function properly; not fitted correctly; inappropriate for ability—either the equipment’s not good enough for the skier or the skier’s not good enough for the equipment. All these can be avoided by checking in with the local ski shops. “Anybody can have an accident,” he says. “Cuts from ski edges, bone breaks from hitting rocks and trees, torn muscles, head injuries—those minor traumas are still the number-one reason we see skiers in the emergency room. But it’s the other range of preventable issues that we’d hope to see less of.” So take precautions. Dr. Jeff would much rather swap ski stories with you on the chair lift than in the ER. — Jackson Hole Skier w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t




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U.S. SKI & SNOWBOARD HALL OF FAME Betty Woolsey Wilson, Wyoming: Betty Woolsey burst on the ski scene in the early 1930s, gaining national prominence by being a stalwart competitor on the 1935 United States Women’s F.I.S. Ski Team, in Murren, Switzerland. Woolsey was virtually fearless, and although neither she nor any other team member did very well as far as placing went, they did lay the groundwork and whet their appetite for competition in the future, because the Americans now knew they could compete against the European women. Woolsey was a member of the 1936 U.S. Olympic Team which competed at Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany, and placed 7th in the Slalom, and 14th in the Downhill, a considerable improvement Betty Woolsey from her placing in the Murren Games. Woolsey went on to the 1936 F.I.S. World Championships at Innsbruck, Austria, and placed 10th in the Downhill. She was also a member of the 1937 F.I.S. Team and the mythic 1940 U.S. Olympic Team that was chosen, but did not compete because of World War II. Betty Woolsey won the National Ski Association, National Downhill and Alpine Combined titles in 1939. Betty Woolsey was inducted into the National Ski Hall of Fame in 1969. Josef “Pepi” Stiegler Pepi Stiegler was a member of the Austrian ski team during the 1960s and one of the world’s premier racers. In the 1960 Winter Olympics at Squaw Valley, he won a silver medal in Giant Slalom. And at the 1964 Innsbruck Olympics, Pepi took the bronze medal in Giant Slalom and the gold in Slalom. At the time, Pepi was a 26 year-old photographer who had been twice removed from the national team and replaced by Egon Zimmermann but both times reinstated because of public pressure. Stiegler had such a large lead after the first run in that 1964 Olympic Slalom that even finishing 8th in the second run did not wipe out that margin and was good enough to hold his first place against our own Billy Kidd, who finished second, and Jimmy Heuga, who was bronzed. He made appearances at many ski events in the USA, wrote articles for ski magazines, eventually ending up at Jackson Hole, where he reigned for many years as ski school director. Josef “Pepi” Stiegler was inducted in 2001.

BIATHLON SKI HALL OF FAME The U. S. Biathlon Association in New Gloucester, Maine, recently inducted Jackson native Pete Karns into its Hall of Fame. Karns began competing in both alpine and Nordic disciplines of the Intermountain Ski Association in 1955 and in short order accumulated championship titles in slalom, downhill, crosscountry, and skimeister. While at the University of Utah he won races in slalom, giant slalom, and cross-country. Karns notched other notable finishes in NCAA Championships, among them: 3rd in skimeister rankings in 1965; 4th in the


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Bill Briggs Bill Briggs is regarded as the father of big-mountain skiing in the United States. His first ski descent of Wyoming’s Grand Teton on June 15, 1971, is regarded as the single most crystallizing moment in American big-mountain skiing. He also completed the first high ski traverse in the Canadian Rockies and the first modern ski descent of Mount Rainier. Despite being born without a right hip socket, he has possessed a love for climbing and skiing and was a highmountain guide and ski instructor throughout his life. He was the first person highlighted in STEEP, a featurelength film on the world’s leading big-mountain skiers. Tommy Moe Tommy was born in Missoula, Montana, on February 17, 1970. He started skiing at age three. He always wanted to ski fast. He attended Glacier Creek Ski Academy in Alaska. At age 19, he made the U.S. World Championships team. In 1989 and 1990 he won the Super G combined and the U.S. Slalom title. In 1992 he competed in his first Olympics, placing 20th and 28th in downhill and Super G. In 1994 in Lillehammer, Norway, Moe became the first American alpine ski racer to win two medals in an Olympics, taking the gold in downhill and the silver in Super G. Doug Coombs Doug Coombs was one of the most important skiers of his generation. His death in a skiing accident in 2006 was reported around the world. The movie STEEP, became an epitaph for his life as a big-mountain skier. He was regarded as an exceptionally decent, honest and hardworking human being. He was a leader in popularizing the concept of adventure and big-mountain skiing. With his wife, Emily, Coombs established the first helicopter-skiing operation in Alaska’s Chugach Mountains and guided the first client ski descent of the Grand Teton for Exum Guides in Jackson, Wyoming. He was instrumental in opening controlled backcountry access for Jackson Hole resort skiers. He twice won the World Extreme Skiing Championships. He starred in many ski films, demonstrating his technical proficiency and expertise with a passion for skiing that he shared with countless skiers during his life. — U.S. Ski & Snowboard Hall Of Fame


1966 cross-country category; and 2nd in that year in skimeister, which garnered him All America recognition as well. In 1967, Karns finished 3rd in the U.S. Cross Country National 15k event. Following college graduation, Karns entered the army and secured an assignment to the Modern Winter Biathalon Training Center at Fort Richardson, Alaska, quickly establishing himself as the top U.S. biathlete of his era. He won National Championships in 1970 and ’72. Internationally, he was usually the top American, finishing 2nd in the 1969 Swiss Biathlon Cham-

pionship and 2nd in the 1970 Swedish Biathlon Championships. Despite a disconcerting false start, cancellation and rescheduling of the 20k individual event due to a freak snow squall, Karns finished 14th overall in the 1972 Sapporo Olympics, an American finish that went unchallenged for decades. Karns has remained vitally active as a coach to U.S. teams and to local Jackson athletes, who themselves have excelled and competed in the Olympics.

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Photo courtesy U.S. Ski & Snowboard Hall of Fame

The U.S. Ski and Snowboard Hall of Fame and Museum located in Ishpeming, Michigan, displays an extensive collection of ski-related artifacts and archives. The 20,000-square-foot facility houses equipment, clothing, and trophies that represent over 350 honored members. Five of those members make or made their home in Jackson Hole. If you visit the museum, you’ll find these accolades on the plaques of the Jackson five.

PEPI STIEGLER The best run of my life


Photo by Frischauf Photo, Innsbruck

epi Stiegler slowly turns the pages of his scrapbook, skimming newspaper clippings from a ski-racing career that spanned the 1950s and early ‘60s. He stops at the headline: “Stiegler Beats the Blonde Blitz.” “You know Molterer from Kitzbuhel,” he says. “Anderl Molterer, the ‘Blitz from Kitz,’ with all his slalom victories. They didn’t like that Stiegler from Lienz was going to ski that fast.” He turns the pages looking for one particular race in 1961. “Ah, here it is. The Austrian Championships in Lienz,” he says, still reading. “I did well in the GS. This article says I was first, though I thought I remembered being second. I was fifth in downhill, which is OK for me. I can’t do any better. And then came the slalom.”

“The Holy Anger grabbed me. The Heilige Wut, a German expression. Wut is an extreme form of anger. This photo shows that: the look on my face, the aggression in my skiing.” Pepi Stiegler, Olympic Silver medalist in 1960 and Gold and Bronze medalist in 1964, counts this 1961 National Championship slalom as “The best run of my life.” Even a casual observer cannot help but see the drama of the situation. “Here is a slalom in my home town, on my home mountain,” he explains, recalling the details of what was clearly a pivotal moment in his career. “The very place I grew up. We lived up on the mountain a ways and we could ski down. We’d ski sometimes to school, or sled. “And here comes the problem. I skied very slow in the first run, two-and-a-half seconds behind the fastest run. I think it was Ernst Falch, who was a slalom specialist. And I go like, ‘What! Those guys from north Tyrol gonna beat me? Here, on my home mountain? And I’ve already won two World Cups? Two World Cup slaloms? “The slalom, at the time, was my thing. Slalom, slalom, slalom. And I go shaking my head. I got beat, by two-and-a-half seconds, on my home mountain? I can’t handle this. “The Holy Anger grabbed me. The Heilige Wut, a German expression. Wut is an extreme form of anger. This photo shows that: the look w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

Pepi Stiegler winning the second run in slalom at the 1961 Austrian Championships in Lienz, beating Ernst Falch and his 2.5-second advantage from the first run by 2.6 seconds.

on my face, the aggression in my skiing, and very clean. It’s a historic photograph, too, showing those grown saplings for slalom poles. You had to ski like Stein (Eriksen) to get your shoulder turned so that the pole would hit you on the back and then spick off (Austrian expression meaning ‘to glance off of ’). “I skied in my second run 2.6 seconds faster than Falch, and that was the run of my life, so to speak. That gave me the slalom victory. It also gave me the combined victory, which meant that I was the Austrian Champion. It was a big deal to win the combined, three events, the GS, slalom, and downhill.”

Pepi sits back and reflects on the contents of his treasured scrapbook. “My first run in the 1964 Olympics, when I was one second ahead, was also, of course, my ‘run of my life,’ too. It freaked the French out, which was a good thing because they started skiing too fast, puttin’ on too much gas, and all but one of them crashed. That first run was the key to my victory, because my second run wasn’t that good. I had a slip. I was eighth in the second run. But the combined time got me .14 ahead of Billy Kidd. People don’t ask how much separation there is. Now they win by hundredths. It is insane.” — Jackson Hole Skier 2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R



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Living legend

Photos: Wade McKoy / Bob Woodall


“Jimmy Zell is one of the best skiers to ever hit this area,” wrote the late, legendary Big Wally, his friend and fellow paragliding pilot. “He lived the ‘Silent’ part of the ‘Swift, Silent, Deep’ credo of the Jackson Hole Air Force and pioneered many routes that people now ski in the Jackson Hole backcountry.” Eleven years ago Jimmy was paralyzed from the waist down in a paragliding accident in Mexico. He fought his way back to an independent lifestyle, even returning to the slopes in a sit-ski. Three years ago Jimmy underwent an additional four operations because of complications from the paralysis. He is still fighting to recover. Here are a few testimonials to his skiing prowess and to the concept of the “Zell Line.” Howard Henderson—I’d be back in Granite on a mission, back in the day, and I’d see Jimmy coming down Mile Long or Endless, solo. He’d always give me grief about setting the track too high, encouraging me to set it absolutely as low as possible, and try and make it really straight and nice. To this day we call that the Jimmy Zell Line, if we know the track has been set well, because if not, Jimmy would be pissed. Julie Zell—Back in the 1980s, when I was still in high school, I got a call from my brother Jimmy. ‘Julie,’ he said, ‘you’ve got to come out here to Jackson Hole. They have the coolest race, the Town Downhill, and I just won it.’ Dave Miller—I watched Jimmy drag his pole down the right-side wall in Corbet’s and land in deep pow 50 feet below. I watched Jimmy go head to head with the pro slalom skiers in the Silhouette Vodka Series that came through Jackson Hole in the ‘80s. In the gates he was at the same level as the pros. It was awesome to watch a local powder skier hang with the big boys in the gates! Todd Jones—I have had the pleasure of hitting many different Zell Lines, here and around the world. They do not solely exist in a way to navigate a section of a mountain. They are all over a mountain. Even bigger still, the Zell Lines might get you up a mountain for less money, into a show for free, to a

Jimmy Zell

secret powder stash, or onto a fishing boat. The one thing that they all have in common is that they are usually creative and extremely rewarding ways to go into something. Comments on these and other photos of Jimmy Zell posted on Facebook: Kevin Pusey—Jimmy’s style is smooth as a shark’s. Theo Meiners—JZ showed the way back in the day when being a humble athlete was a big part of the big-mountain skill set, skiing on 210s that are 68mm underfoot and ripping the raddest lines in deep snow. Kevin Brazell—J.Z the O.G...Word. Everywhere I go it’s a Zell Line! Early Lonnie’s, before Tat cut the branches to get speed. JZ is the man! Greg von Doersten—Soul... John Griber—Yeah, JZ. Dirk Collins—Sweet.

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m o m C unity i k S



Jackson Hole’s ski community expresses its creative talents in many diverse realms: art, music, photography, theater, dance. This year we feature some of its artists.

Kelly Halpin

Years snowboarding: 10

Years doing art: “Drawing since I was nine months old,” according to my mom. Credits: Storyboards, comics, beer labels, newspaper covers, film titles, shirt designs, music posters

My art is… Awesome! Buy it. No, but seriously, my art is somewhere I like to visit between dreams and reality, where I only need a pen and a sense of adventure.

Why I Snowboard: Snowboarding is like being showered in chocolate-covered gummy bears while swimming in a pool of skittles and lollipops. It’s freedom and excitement, friends or solitude, flying, floating, falling, and no matter how serious you try to make it, it’s always fun. That’s why I ride.

Renny Milosky Years snowboarding: 9 Years doing art: 19

My art is… What keeps me grounded to the world and my life. Art lets me dream towards the future and keeps me thinking new thoughts.

Why I Snowboard: I snowboard because it defies the elements and it’s fun.


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Photos: Wade McKoy

Credits: the Portland Saturday Market in Oregon; The Quick Draw, Museum of Wildlife Art, and Takin’ It To The Streets, Jackson Hole, shows at Pearl Street, and commissions.

Mike Tierney When extreme skier Mike Tierney moved to Jackson Hole, it wasn’t for the steep, gnarly terrain. It was for art. His art. Painted on skis. “I didn’t really know anything about Jackson Hole,” says Tierney. “I was living in Steamboat, Colorado, going to a dirt-bag skibum college, and I read in Powder about this little ski company called Igneous.” As a kid Tierney had always repainted his toys, making them his own, no matter how cool they looked coming out of the box. But then he found himself driving to Jackson Hole, a 19-year-old following his dream, hoping to convince Igneous president Adam Sherman to let him paint skis. “Right away I saw his skis—no graphics, all black, humongous 215s with no tips,” Tierney says. “I was so stoked. The Igneous factory was just raw. Sheetrock with no texture, a plastic wall for a kitchen, and a wall of black skis. There was so much potential.” He made his pitch. Adam Sherman was nonplussed. “He started laughing,” recalls Tierney, “and said, ‘Whatever. Ski graphics are the least important part of what we’re doing here. We’re here to make skis that are burley, super durable, and really tough.’” The Igneous president, however, didn’t say no. “He was flattered, I guess, that some kid was wound up on his product,” says Tierney. “I moved into the factory, built a cardboard box that became my home for five years, and painted skis.” But Tierney’s early paintings failed. “The paint would go on too thick and wasn’t consistent,” he remembers. “It would start to shatter off as soon as you skied them.” The Igneous crew supported the idea, though. “Somebody suggested I start using aerosol paints. I experimented with spray paint and it worked,” he says. “I’ve been painting skis like that ever since.” As top sheets evolved toward natural wood, though, Tierney had to shift his focus. “I think it’s sacrilegious to paint over a beautiful wood,” he says, “so I started messing around with canvasses, practicing my moves.” On the edge of survival financially, his w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

bread-and-butter income as a house painter having slowed to the starvation point, inspiration struck. Tierney discovered Banksy, a renowned graffiti artist in the U.K. “He’s a super famous guy, really talented,” he says. “He’s all about using stencils, so I thought it would be really cool if I could come up with a stencil concept for the mountains around here. See if it works.” It worked. “It felt like the biggest breakthrough ever in my creative life,” he says. Tierney’s stenciled mountain art is receiving favorable reviews and sales from several recent art shows. The series includes Cody Peak, Sleeping Indian, Glory Bowl, and Mount Fossil. He continues to add additional local peaks, but the idea doesn’t stop in Wyoming. “I want to go around the world painting beautiful mountains in different countries, different ski towns,” he says. “I think it could sustain my passion for skiing, and also the explorer and inventor in me.” Now 33 years old, 15 of those spent in Jackson Hole, Tierney recently got a big break from, of all places, Hollywood. Tierney’s phone rang and suddenly he was talking to Ski Channel founder Steve Bellamy. “He invited me to be part of his current project,” Tierney says. “ Dude, I’m gonna be in a movie with Bode Miller.” His part? Drama queen. It’s hard to imagine Mike Tierney as a bigger drama queen than U.S. Ski Team rebel Bode Miller; but by his own assessment, he’s got Bode beat. “I let it fly on camera,” he says. “I was going through some heavy emotions at the time, and when we sat down to do the film

sessions, a lot of things just poured out of me.” That kind of intensity is, of course, exactly what TV audiences love. And perhaps an even bigger bonus from Tierney’s recent association with Bellamy is another art project. This one has money behind it and, more importantly for Tierney, it’s got soul. “He presented me with an opportunity to do some experimental work with Fender guitars,” he says. “Maybe some big-name rock stars will be playing guitars that I painted. That would be really cool.” Fender sent Tierney a few stripped guitar bodies to paint. “I just started messin’ around with them,” he says. “One of them turned out looking like electric-blue rattlesnake skin.” His guitar-painting technique is similar to stencil art, but using “found objects” to spray paint through—screens, expanded metals, and other “tools” he acquires as leftover refuse from the welding shop next door to the Igneous factory. “They have the most magical dumpster,” Tierney says. “I showed the metal shop guys the guitar and they were like, ‘Oh my god, what else do you need?’ They showed me their whole stash, their whole arsenal of cool materials.” Fender’s reps also liked what they saw and are considering him for a commission to paint 50 guitars. “That’s just an amazing opportunity right there,” he says. “Support is all around you. Inspiration is all around you. It’s just a matter of looking at it right. So even the worst situation imaginable can turn out to be a blessing in disguise.” — Jackson Hole Skier

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Rob Kingwill, Ciao gallery, Jackson Treehouse

Years riding: Skiing since age three, started snowboarding 23 years ago.

Years doing art: 35. My dad is an artist and has always encouraged me to create art for as long as I remember. Credits: Created graphics for Compatriot Snowboards, Arbor Snowboards, and AVALON7. Participated in the Work In Progress show at Full Circle Gallery. Working on a show for Ciao gallery this winter. My art is... An extension of myself. An exploration of the things that I love or find inspiring. I want to capture that feeling when I get stoked or excited about something and translate it into a form that I can share with others. Share the stoke.

Why I Snowboard: I snowboard because it is one of the most pure and aesthetic vehicles for self-expression that I have ever found. It allows you to be endlessly creative and creates a channel for deep communion with the mountains and nature.

Rich Goodwin Richiebeats@gmail

Years snowboarding: 25 Years doing art: 35

My art is... Everything. Music, film, photography, painting, ceramics, DJ-ing, cooking, construction, jump-building, stickers, graphic design, and more.

Why I Snowboard: Snowboarding is just that thing I do. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fight it. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more a part of me than anything. Except maybe art.


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Photos: Wade McKoy

Credits: Directed and filmed The Community Project

Lynsey Dyer Lynsey Dyer’s art begins with her experiences in nature. And her experiences in nature sometimes start with her imaginations of art. “Bringing ideas and daydreams out of my head and onto the paper facilitates these moments happening in real life,” she says. “Because you’re basically there without being there.” Life imitating art. Art imitating life. Her circular, full emersion in art began with Lynsey’s childhood fascination with Play Dough, and gained traction and structure in school art classes. Skiing became important, too, as Lynsey juggled art shows and ski racing, achieving division one by college, along with a degree in graphic design. And while still in college, she managed to parlay art into a coveted job. “During my junior year I scored a highpaying internship at Electronic Arts, a video game company in San Francisco,” she says. “Forbes magazine named it one of the top-ten art internships in America. It was a highly sought-after position and probably the best graphic design job I could have ever hoped for.” But, Lynsey notes, “I was miserable.” It seems the outdoor lifestyle also had a firm grip on Lynsey. Office life, a real-work experience in the city, pushed her to follow her passion for the snowy slopes and to also somehow create art in her own way, on her own terms. “I felt so cooped up in an office,” she remembers, “and even though it was the greatest office in the world, I realized I wanted to be skiing. But I also saw designers losing their freedom to be creative, which is what I think makes any artist the happiest.” So, after college, she focused all her energies on finding ways to live independently while still creating art. The ski culture itself provided an opportunity. Lynsey has produced ski graphics for Rossignol and for Liberty skis and snowboards, and T-shirts and hoodies for Rossignol, The Ski Journal, Quicksilver, Eddie Bauer, the Jackson Hole Film Festival, and more. “Luckily I found people and companies who like my style and who are willing to pay me for it, which is a dream.” Her works of art start with a nature experience (or perhaps the other way around). Then, on “down days,” or while traveling on airplanes and through airports, she draws a sketch. “It’s w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

also a technique in visualization for creating my most perfect moments out in the mountains,” she says (life imitating art). “The most successful pieces usually start from my favorite moments in the mountains or the surf,” she says. “Surreal moments, quiet moments when you just got dropped off by the helicopter, or just turned off the sled, or just hiked up, and you’re at the top. Everything is quiet, and you’re just being there, just being present with nature.” Dyer’s first big job depicted such feelings. “It was the first time I was paid for my work and my style,” she recalls. “A series of extreme moments in surfing, kite boarding, mountain biking, skiing, and some urban stuff for a campaign to keep kids out of drugs.” Dyer’s latest show, a handmade T-shirt series at the Art Association of Jackson Hole, combined femininity with the tough aspects of nature. “I put a lighthearted spin on it,” she says. “For example, ‘Girls with Antlers’—fitting for Jackson because we all have to be so tough. One of my favorites is ‘Girl Walking ‘Girafficorn.’” Printmaking and multi-media, though, are her favorite genres. “I carry a sketchbook everywhere I go,” she says. “I bring the sketches onto a woodblock and carve away the wood to get different shades and different colors, and then print them. “The T-shirt series was all screen printing, creating a different screen for each color, so I

use a lot of different techniques within the printmaking genre. When I’m away from the studio I try to recreate that on the computer.” Dyer considers all athletes natural artists. “We’ve all had to be very creative in living a life that most people would say is impossible or that doesn’t exist,” she says. “It’s so important to have those people who, daily, try to create in reality what’s in their head. Many people say, ‘You can’t live like that,’ or ‘It doesn’t work that way.’ It’s up to athletes and artists to continually show the world that so much more is possible, that just because our eyes can’t see it, it doesn’t mean we can’t make it happen. “A lot of athletes say that the mountain is our canvass, that we are leaving our mark on the mountain. There is definitely a correlation with self-expression, either a physical self-expression of how you get down a mountain, or the quiet side of creating art, alone, late at night in the studio. They are both really important aspects of being a fully functioning human being.” — Jackson Hole Skier 2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R


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Bryan Iguchi Years snowboarding: 22

Years doing art: As long as I can remember.

My art is... A way to remember things I’ve seen or feelings I’ve had about a place or moment in life.

Why I Snowboard: I ride because it makes me happy. I’ve dedicated my life to it and it’s become my lifestyle. Fresh snow, the excitement of discovering a new line...winter is magic.

Ryan Haworth

Years doing art: As soon as I could use a crayon to write on walls. Three-ish?

Clients: Rossignol,TGR, Quiksilver, Carrie Fisher, to name a few.

My art is... I’m very impatient with concepts. When I get an idea, I like to hunt for the best medium. Whatever feels right for me, so my work tends to evolve with each new piece.

Why I snowboard: There is no why. It’s an instinct at this point. Like rushing to the restroom...when you gotta go, you gotta go.


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Photos: Wade McKoy (top); Ryan Haworth (self)

Years snowboarding/skiing: Started skiing at 3. Started ‘boarding at 15.

Christine Meytras Shinumo Graphics

Years skiing: 40+ years. Mountaineering, alpine, crosscountry, Telemark (very little): I love them all.

Years doing art: As far as I remember I was always playing with pencils, brushes, paint, and papers. I studied in the Fine Arts school of Grenoble, France.

Credits: Exhibits in Jackson, logos and signs for businesses, murals in private houses, posters and note cards, paintings in private collections, interior decoration work.

My art is... An exploration of colors. I use water-base paints, glazes for murals, exotic papers. If my subjects are realistic, somehow I always push them beyond the edge of color normality and disconnect them from any natural background. I use colors like a language to connect with my subjects’ essence.

Why I ski: I have always skied, since I was a little girl in the French Alps. It is a way to celebrate the magic season, a way to connect with nature. A dance. I love skiing in snowstorms when the elements are moving around me.

Rocky Vertone

Years riding: 26 years? Wow, weird.

Years doing art: I’ve been creating art since I was a kid, got serious with it about almost 25 years ago.

Credits: Record labels, really big-time Jackson Hole magazines, gallery shows, personal collections of some big-time art lovers, created art for my own pleasure over the years

My art is… Contrived images from various personal graphic journeys, stories of what I see and feel. It’s layered, multi-media applications that include various materials such as acrylics, oils, spray paint, photos, dirt, glue, tape, white-out, and whatever else I can find laying around.

Why I Snowboard: I snowboard because I know how to. It has been a huge part of my life, especially living in one of the most amazing places to ride in he world.

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Remembering Big Wally

Jackson Hole loses ski patrol icon

Mark â&#x20AC;&#x153;Big Wallyâ&#x20AC;? Wolling takes a free run on the Headwall during a work day on the trail crew.

Photos: Wade McKoy / Bob Woodall

His nickname fit him well. Always going for it, whether chasing adventure in the backcountry or the back of a bar, Big Wally was a full participant in all that he did.

Wally skis a bundle of bamboo through the Downhill Chute.

Twenty-something Wally, setting up his summer home, a Teepee.


I met Big Wally when I joined the ski patrol six years ago. Standing over six feet tall, sporting a blond brush moustache, an oak-barrel chest, lumbering arms, and hands like swimming paddles, Big Wally was a skiing juggernaut. He’d picked up the nickname in college from his resemblance to the model for a ’70s-era household wall-cleaning product label. “Are you going out with Big Wally?” women would tease his girlfriend. Stories of his feats usually defied the laws of time and space. “Big Wally was big, but his actions were bigger,” says Jackson Hole ski patroller Kevin Brazell, who has followed the ski-bum spirit of Mark “Big Wally” Wolling for 20 years. “He could handle any task, at any time, and follow it up with an unforgettably fun, late night. Then, he could turn around and do it all over again the next day.” Last winter Wolling died from injuries he sustained in an avalanche while performing control work at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. His passing had a massive impact, not only on the ski patrol, but also on the valley as a whole. Over a thousand people attended his memorial to pay respects to a character whose legend loomed large over the greater Jackson community. “He was genuine,” says long-time friend Tom Russo. “He didn’t have to pretend.” His nickname fit him well. Always going for it, whether chasing adventure in the backcountry or the back of a bar, Big Wally was a full participant in all that he did. It was about moving full-tilt all day and still going with gusto all night, sometimes until the next morning. Russo

Wally tucks it through a speed skiing track.

put it this way. “Every night was Friday night, and every morning was Monday morning,” he says. “Wally was a full-throttle kind of guy.” His drive for adventure occasionally got him into trouble with work, with women, with the law, and twice it nearly cost him his life in paragliding accidents. But it rarely dented his unyielding spirit, and that might be Wally’s lasting contribution to Jackson Hole. By all accounts his body was broken, beaten down by decades of charging hard. But he still prized the job, and it showed. “He loved ski patrolling,” says co-worker Kirk Speckhals. “Even when he was so hurt and his knees were shot, he’d be out there working, didn’t have to be with someone or make sure anyone knew he was working. He could not ski by something that needed work without stopping and doing it.” Another of Big Wally’s legendary qualities was his generosity, a trait that kept him in what most people would consider financial straits for much of his adult life. Countless friends have commented on his unique largesse. Perhaps the best illustration was “Goatstock,” a grassroots music festival fundraiser he organized on rare occasions to be celebrated at his home, most recently to aid his friend Jimmy Zell’s rising medical costs. The daylong fest drew thousands, raised thousands, and lifted the spirits of all who attended. “There are other people who would help you out, but they wouldn’t do it the way Wally would,” says Brazell. “He always did a little bit extra, always a little bit bigger.” — Jeff Burke

Wally and his faithful dog, Sir Charles.


Snow King Pond Skim Celebrates Spring


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Photos: Bob Woodall

There’s something about the end of the ski season that brings out the craziness in ski towns across the country. Spring fever, longer and warmer days, and that last chance to hang with ski friends all conspire to sometimes bring out varying degrees of zaniness. Classic pond-skimming competition, celebrated at resorts nationwide come closing day, is just one of the welcomed colorful end-of-the-season events embraced by ski areas. In 2009 Snow King Mountain joined in on the fun and launched its own closing-day Season Pass Party and Pond-Skimming Contest. An instant hit with locals, a second event was immediately slated for March 2010. Festive competitors, many sporting retro costumes, skimmed across the water on skis, snowboards, tubes, sleds, and kayaks. Although shooting straight across the pond ensured a clear run to dry land on the other side, it lacked sufficient fun-factor for some celebrants. Dumping themselves into the drink in order to also soak spectators was well worth the cold plunge for the more adventurous or festive entrants. This year’s Third Annual Pond Skimming competition, open to all comers, will take place at Snow King Resort on Sunday, March 20, the King’s season-closing day. So grab your buds and head to the town hill for some of that PBR-infused adventure found only at Snow King’s Pond Skimming Party. — Bob Woodall w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m


Photos Bob Woodall – Aerial view of Grand Teton Range, Rendezvous Mountain & JHMR-left, Mt. Moran and Jackson Lake far right; Aprés Ski at Teton Village.





GRAND TARGHEE Ski-in-ski-out access from 96 lodging rooms, deluxe hotel & condo units. Full service spa. 1-800-TARGHEE email: PG 47 GRAND TARGHEE SPA Outdoor pool, Jacuzzi, steam, sports massage, mud wraps. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 47

THE TRAP BAR & GRILLE Lunch, apres ski snacks, light dinner. Cocktails, micro-brew beers, wine, apres ski special. Live entertainment and special sports events. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 47

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK DORNAN’S SPUR RANCH CABINS 1 & 2 bedroom log cabins with full kitchen & living room. Located on the Snake River in Grand Teton National Park at Moose, with breathtaking views of the Tetons. 307-733-2522 PG 15

JACKSON ANTLER INN Downtown Jackson. 100 units, hot tub, some fireplaces & suites, meeting room, fitness room. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle. 43 W Pearl. 307-733-2535 or 1800-522-2406 PG 35 COWBOY VILLAGE RESORT In the heart of Jackson Hole, offers 82 individual log cabins accommodating groups of 2–6 people. Property amenities include kitchens in all cabins and two hot tubs. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle.120 South Flat Creek Drive. 307-733-3121or 800-962-4988 PG 35 ELK COUNTRY INN 88 units with 25 new log cabins. Family units with lofts. Hot tub & guest laundry. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle. 480 W Pearl. 733-2364 or 800-4-TETONS PG 35 JACKSON HOLE SUPER 8 Experience true western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator. Custom packages & group rates., 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-800-8000/307-733-6833 PG 86 MOTEL 6 Remodeled! Remarkable! Clean, friendly, affordable. Pet friendly, kids under 18 stay free. Guest laundry, free local calls, free morning coffee & local newspaper. We have WiFi access and expanded cable in every room.600 So. Hwy 89,, 307-7331620 Reservations call: 800-4MOTEL6 PG 86 FLAT CREEK INN 1-mile north of the town square, across from the National Elk Refuge. Convenient location provides easy access to everything you will need to make your vacation a memorable one! Breathtaking views of the Gros Ventre Mtns. & the Sleeping Indian. 1035 N Hwy 89, 1-800-438-9338 307-733-5276 PG 43 & 86 49ER INN AND SUITES Downtown Jackson. 142 units, 30 fireplace suites. indoor & outdoor hot tubs—fitness room—meeting facilities—continental breakfast. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle. 330 W Pearl. 307-733-7550 or 1-800-451-2980 PG 35 MOUNTAIN PROPERTY MANAGEMENT offers a wide selection of Jackson Hole lodging, featuring vacation rental homes, condos, and cabins to suit all tastes and budgets., 800992-9948 or 307-733-1648 PG 86 PAINTED BUFFALO INN provides comfortable lodging in the heart of downtown Jackson. Swimming pool, sauna, continental breakfast, WiFi & shuttle stops are just a few of the conveniences we offer our guest. 400 West Broadway, 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 PG 86

GRAND TETON PARK DORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Enjoy great food & the best view of the Tetons. Full-service bar, open for lunch. M-F 11:30-3; Sat/Sun 11:30-5; Bar 10-6. 733-2415 ext 204. PG 15

JACKSON CADILLAC GRILLE LOUNGE “The Spot” for happy hour in Jackson Hole. Happening nightly from 5pm to 7pm. 2 for 1 draft beer and all mixed drinks. Dinner or Billy’s Burger are also available in the bar while you are enjoying happy hour. 307-733-3279. On the town square next to the Cowboy Bar. PG 91 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY The Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 23 WYOMING WHISKEY is true to its name. All ingredients used in the making of its whiskey are grown in Wyoming and water used throughout the process is drawn from a deep artisan well forty miles from the distillery. 307-864-2116 PG 25

TETON VILLAGE & VILLAGE ROAD NICK WILSON'S COWBOY CAFE Located next to the Tram. Breakfast, Smokehouse style lunch, daily specials, burgers, chili, snacks and more. Vibrant Apres Ski Happy Hour 3-6pm with food and drink specials. PG 33 VILLAGE CAFE Next to the JH Tram dock. Breakfast, lunch & Aprés Ski. Espresso, baked goods, wraps, sandwiches & the best pizza. 7am-10pm. Locals' aprés ski spot with full bar. 732-CAFE PG 37



ALPENHOF LODGE European style lodging & dining at the base of JHMR. Hot tub, pool, sauna, massage therapy, all in a cozy lodge setting with friendly professional staff. 307-733-3242 PG 86 THE HOSTEL A friendly lodge, come and stay with us. Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant & inexpensive stay at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. High season:1 or 2 persons $79, 3 or 4 Persons $89. Low season:1 or 2 persons $69, 3 or 4 persons $79. Bunk room: $25-32., 307-733-3415 PG 86 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market, Ski-in/ski-out lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 PG 86 TETON CLUB Ski-in, Ski-out, trailside condo located at the base of the JH Mt Resort. 2 & 3 bedroom exquisitely furnished condominiums and 5-star service make this property the only place to stay while in Jackson Hole. 866-352-9777 PG 33

WIND RIVER BREWING COMPANY Located in downtown Pinedale, Wyoming. The pub features handcrafted superior brews and many pub favorites including salads, homemade soups, appetizers, burgers, and fine steaks; all with generous portions.PG 25

GRAND TETON – TOGWOTEE PASS TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE On the CD Snowmobile Trail, full service lodge, 54 modern cabins, restaurant, lounge, hot tubs, transportation, snowmobile rental, clothing, guides. 307-543-2847, PG 65 TRIANGLE C RANCH Complete winter recreation packages, “The Old West In Winter”–dog sled trips, snowmobile excursions, snowcoach to Yellowstone, lodging, meals. Transportation available. 800-661-4928 PG 4

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DINING – RESTAURANTS – CAFÉS GRAND TARGHEE– TETON VALLEY, IDAHO GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 5 restaurants serving a complete variety of food – gourmet dinners to snacks. Breakfast, lunch, dinner & dinner sleigh rides. Fare includes: Pastries, espressos, sandwiches, salads, burgers, pizza, steaks, Mexican & Italian, blackened foods. PG 47 THE TRAP BAR & GRILLE Lunch, aprés ski snacks, light dinner. Cocktails, micro-brew beers, wine, aprés ski special. Live entertainment and special sports events. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 47

GRAND TETON PARK DORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Specialty pizzas, calzones, salads, pastas, sandwiches. Enjoy great food & the best view of the Tetons. Full-service bar, open for lunch. M-F 11:30-3; Sat/Sun 11:30-5; Bar 10-6. 733-2415 ext 204. PG 15

JACKSON AJ DEROSA’S SNAKE RIVER SLEIGH RIDES Savor a quiet ride along the Snake River to our riverside camp for a Western dinner or

lunch in an authentic tipi. View wildlife & take in the fabulous winter scenery while relaxing in our horse drawn sleigh. Group & private trips available.,(307)732-2628 PG 15 BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS Jackson’s best, biggest & juiciest burgers. All drinks & plenty of beer. Take-out too. Opens at 11:30. Next to the Cadillac Grille. On the Town Square. 733-3279 PG 91 THE BUNNERY Best breakfast in town, served all day. Fresh baked pastries & we proudly brew Starbucks Coffee. On North Cache, 1 block north of the town square. 734-0075. PG 17 CADILLAC GRILLE Atmosphere, food, service & price make this a Jackson Hole favorite. Excellent steaks, game, seafood & pasta. Fabulous wine list. Local microbrews & your favorite cocktail. On the Town Square. 733-3279 PG 91 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burger & jerky. Gift packs, smoked trout & more! Free Samples. Certified 100% natural. We ship. South end of Jackson, in Smith’s Plaza. 733-4159/800-543-6328 PG 91 FLAT CREEK MART A full convenience store with fuel station, 2 miles north of the town square, open from 6 am- 10 pm daily! Stop by for some munchies and a full tank on your way to the park, or top off your tank before returning your car to the airport! PG 43 & 86 MEAD RANCH NATURAL BEEF For over 100 years, our family raised the highest quality Angus Hereford beef in the shadows of Tetons. Grass-fed beef on conservation land, grain finished, steroid free, antibiotic free, humanely processed, dry aged. Ask for it at finer Jackson Hole restaurants & grocers. 307-734-3911 PG 23 McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness & value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald’s freshly prepared breakfasts & regular menu favorites. WiFi available for your convenience. 5:30am–midnight. 1110 West Broadway at highway 22. PG 39 MOUNTAIN HIGH PIZZA PIE, also subs, salads, calzones. Traditional, whole wheat, or deep dish crusts. fresh veggie toppings. 11 am to 10 pm. On Broadway across from the Wort Hotel. WE DELIVER. 733-3646 PG 15 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT The Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, burgers, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 23 SWEETWATER RESTAURANT Locals’ favorite since 1976. Lunch & dinner in a log cabin. Homemade soups, salads, burgers, sandwiches, lamb, steaks, full bar, deadly desserts & extensive wine list. Corner King and Pearl. 733-3553 PG 17 TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast buffet, lunch & dinner. Steaks, salad bar, chicken, seafood. A local favorite! Corner of Pearl & Cache across from Antler Inn. A place where things are still the same. 733-2639 PG 61

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT NICK WILSON’S Cowboy Cafe in the Tram building, daily specials, sandwiches, burgers, chili, snacks & beer, wine & liquor. Breakfastlunch & aprés ski, 7:30am-6pm daily, happy hour 3-6pm. PG 33 VILLAGE CAFE Next to the JH Tram dock. Breakfast, lunch & Aprés Ski. Espresso, baked goods, wraps, sandwiches & the best pizza. 7am-10pm. Local's aprés ski spot with full bar. 732-CAFE PG 37

ON THE MOUNTAIN AT THE JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT CASPER RESTAURANT Cozy mid-mountain skiers/boarders retreat. Specialty burgers, burritos, a warm up station serving hot drinks with a kick, and a new Bloody Mary Bar. PG 33 CAFE 6311 Base of the Bridger Gondola, serving toasted bagels, breakfast burritos, ever popular designer wrap sandwiches, and espresso and coffee drinks served all day. Open daily in the winter. PG 33 CORBET'S CABIN Top-of-the-World waffles at the top of the tram on Rendezvous Mountain, quick snacks, hot drinks with unlimited views that are on the house. PG 33 COULOIR RESTAURANT FINE dining at 9,095 ft. Step off the Gondola and walk into a contemporary & hip restaurant. Exceptional hospitality, delectable American cuisine with Rocky Mountain roots. Reservations recommended. 307-739-2675 PG 31 HEADWALL PIZZA AND DELI Located at the top of the Bridger Gondola, a quick stop to get you back on the slopes. Serving fresh pizza, Kobe hot dogs with unique toppings, housemade soups and gourmet grab and go items. PG 31 RENDEZVOUS RESTAURANT AT 9,095 FT. offering fresh salads, soups, Asian bowls and stir fries, grill meats and baked potatoes. Great view of Rendezvous Mountain and Corbet’s Couloir. PG 31

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SPORTS SHOPS ? APPAREL ? GIFTS ? JEWELRY ? APPAREL & SPORTS SHOPS GRAND TARGHEE – TETON VALLEY, IDAHO GRAND TARGHEE SPORTS & RENTAL SHOPS carry apparel, downhill & Nordic skis, snowboards, and accessories for adults and children. 1-800-TARGHEE, rentals—307-353-2300 PG 47


LOWRIDER BOARD SHOP Jackson Hole snowboarders bring you high-end demos and rentals, GRINDrite tuning, and knowledgeable sales assistance. Gear from Burton, Salomon, Signal, Grenade, O'Neill, DaKine and more. Next to Pepi's in the Olympic Plaza,Teton Village. 733-4505 PG 37 PEPI STIEGLER SPORTS The most exclusive collection of high performance skis and skiwear for the distinguishing resort shopper. Offering quality service, attention to detail and the best tune in Jackson Hole. Find us in Teton Village in the big white building next to Teton Mountain Lodge. 733-45045 PG 2 PETER GLEN SKI & SPORTS Huge selection of ski & snowboard clothing equipment & accessories for men, women, & children, including Spyder, Obermeyer, Bogner, Burton, K2 & more! PG 64 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Jackson Hole’s largest ski & snowboard rental & demo center. Online reservations. Völkl, Tecnica, Head, Rossignol, Salomon, Marker, The North Face, Arcteryx, Cloudveil, Bogner, Black Diamond,Patagonia, and Arbor. Custom footbeds, repair shop, In the Crystal Springs Lodge. 733-2181. PG 92

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK DORNAN’S GIFT SHOP Rental & sales of cross-country skis, snow shoes. 733-2415, ext 301 In the Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park. PG 15

SKIS CUSTOM MADE – FACTORY DIRECT JACKSON HOLE IGNEOUS Custom Skis, hand-crafted in Jackson Hole. 734-8788 PG 53




NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 16

JH RESORT STORE The official logo store of JH Mountain Resort, the source for logo apparel and gifts. Located on the town square, it is the in-town connection for lift tickets, snow conditions and activities. 734-6045 PG 33

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK DORNAN’S GIFT SHOP In the Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park. 733-2415, ext 301 PG 15 DORNAN’S TRADING POST GROCERY Open 8-5 daily. X-Country and snow shoe rentals. Gourmet cheeses & specialty foods, full grocery, gas available 24 hour. ATM 733-2415, ext 201; In the Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park. PG 15

HOMES – MOUNTAIN RUSTIC DESIGNED MOSSCREEK has been designing great rustic homes throughout the world for over 25 years. With a unique understanding of Western style, we can help you achieve your dream wherever you choose to live it. Please visit us at, or call 800.737.2166 PG 3

ICE SKATING SNOW KING CENTER at the base of Snow King Ski Area offers indoor daily public skating. For an updated schedule and prices call 734-3000 OWEN BIRCHER PARK Outdoor public rink, illuminated 6-10 p.m. nightly, downtown Wilson 733-5056.

PHOTOGRAPHY & SKI MOVIES DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full-service camera store. Binoculars, digital & film cameras, including Nikon, Canon, Leica. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 PG 2, 11, 89 & 90 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS INC. Products include the Jackson Hole Skier, JH Dining Guide, Mountain Country Magazine & ski posters. Commercial photography, stock photo file & editorial assignment. 307-733-6995. PG 87 PAUL’S PHOTO SAFARIS Winter is one of those magical times of year when the wildlife is concentrated in and around the Jackson Hole valley floor. Be my guests and join me in my customized safari van for a relaxed, photo safari you will be talking about for a long time. 877-607-6377 PG 16 SWIFT. SILENT. DEEP. An award-winning documentary ski film about a revolutionary underground band of rebel skiers who called themselves the Jackson Hole Air Force. This great ski movie features incredible archival ski footage and a colorful cast of characters. Purchase at Teton Village Sports or at, PG 73 WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney. 307-733-8877 PG 41

JEWELRY – ART DANSHELLEY JEWELERS Wearable works of art created by Dan & Shelley, plus other designers using gold & gems. From diamonds to elk ivory & Teton charms. Gaslight Alley, just off the town square. 733-2259 PG 5 HINES GOLDSMITH Designers of the Teton pendant, ring, charm and bracelet since 1970. Bucking Bronco and Elk Ivory jewelry, large selection of gold and silver charms, etched barware depicting the Tetons and Bucking Bronco. 80 Center Street, East Side of Town Square, 307-733-5599 PG 21


CHILD & TEEN SERVICES JACKSON HOLE KIDS RANCH Located in the Cody House at JHMR. Infant & child care: ages 6 month-years. Ski/snowboard programs for ages 3-17 years. Kids Ranch participants experience Fort Wyoming, an outdoor playground with a Magic Carpet surface lift. Teen camps available during Christmas, President's Week and Spring Break. 307-739-2788.PG 33 KIDS CLUB Grand Targhee Resort has a variety of programs for children, including evening programs just for kids! Our professional child care staff can handle from infants to age 14. Baby sitting by appointment. PG 47


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ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE Walk-ins welcome. X-ray & laboratory services on-site so doctors can assess & treat your condition promptly. Open extended hours, evenings & weekends. In the Smith’s Plaza, 1415 S. Hwy 89, 307-739-8999 PG 68 ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT Staffed 24/7 by board-certified emergency medicine physicians. St. John’s offers comprehensive hospital care including diagnostic imaging, certified Clinical Laboratory & Surgery Center services. 625 E. Broadway, 307-733-3636 PG 68 ST. JOHN’S CLINIC AT TETON VILLAGE Medical Clinic for winter sports injuries and ailments. Open 7 days a week during ski season. Staffed with board-certified emergency medicine physicians. Located at the Kids Ranch Building, Cody House, 307-739-7346. PG 68 TETON ORTHOPAEDICS has a team of doctors and physical therapists that offer a full spectrum of medical care devoted to diagnosis, treatment, and rehabilitation. Same-day appointments available. 307-733-3900,800-6591335 555 East Broadway next to St John’s Medical Center PG 69

Photos Bob Woodall – King Tubes Snow Tubing, far left; Alpenglow on Tetons, left; Rick Armstrong, at the JHMRm, top

HEADWALL RECYCLE SPORTS Check us out for great gently used outdoor clothing and gear. We have high quality consignment items at great prices for the whole family. Located in K mart Plaza 307-734-8022. PG 43 HOBACK SPORTS Featuring the latest Wintersteiger tuning machines. Overnight repairs, full ski & snowboard rental shop, retail sales of major brands, specializing in expert boot-fitting. Located in Jackson at 520 W. Broadway. 733-5335 PG 4 HOLE IN THE WALL SNOWBOARD SHOP Teton Village's original Snowboard Shop. Boards and Demos from Burton, Option, Nidecker, & Lib Tech, Never Summer. Technical outerwear from Arc’teryx, Burton, 686, Roxy and more, upstairs in the Bridger Center at the base of the gondola. 307-739-2689. PG 33 JACK DENNIS OUTDOOR SHOP The finest outerwear & hard goods for the whole family. Complete rental department, performance demos, overnight repair. Located in Teton Village 733-6838 & on the town square 733-3270 PG 2 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS THE mountain ski shop. We stock Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, Patagonia, Eider, Fischer, Rossignol, K2, Salomon, Dynastar, and more. Full service mountainside rental shop & experienced repair, tuning & boot-fitting services. Located in the Bridger Center at the base of the gondola. 307-739-2687 PG 33 JACKSON TREEHOUSE A fine selection of ski and snowboard trinkets. The Treehouse features brands from Armada, 4Front, Amplid, Lib Tech, and Burton. Clothing from Volcom, Quiksilver, and Roxy. Demo's and rentals available as well as a full tune and repair shop. Located in Hotel Terra, 739-TREE7 PG 37


GRAND TARGHEE EXPRESS Daily transportation from Jackson Hole & Teton Village to Grand Targhee. PG 47 START BUS Jackson to Teton Village – Schedules , routes & fares are available at bus stops, lodgings & information centers. 733-4521


AVALANCHE HAZARD & WEATHER FORECAST 307-733-2664 see story PAGE 39 FOCUSPRODUCTIONS.COM Subscribe to our magazines, order posters & photography. Read the online editions of Jackson Hole Skier, Mountain Country Summer Visitors Guide, & the Jackson Hole Dining Guide. PG 87

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? ART ? SLED DOGS ? HELI–SKI ? SNOWMOBILING GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 JACKSON HOLE & GREATER YELLOWSTONE VISITORS’ CENTER on North Cache Street in Jackson has information on all activities in the area. Mon-Fri 8:00-5:00, Sat-Sun 10-2 pm. or call the JACKSON HOLE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 733-3316 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT GUEST SERVICE located next to the tram ticket windows. Information on mountain/valley activities & events, daily snow & weather conditions, vertical foot club, lost & found. 307-739-2753 PG 33 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN HOSTS Complimentary Mountain orientation tours leave from the front of Walk Festival Hall in Teton Village at 9:30 am daily. Hosts can answer questions & assist with anything from airline schedules to off mountain activities. 7392697 PG 33 JACKSON HOLE SKI CLUB Since 1938 has provided a ski education foundation for Alpine, Nordic & Snowboard junior racers. For discounts on local services & merchandise, buy a membership at local ski shops. 733-6433 LOST OR STOLEN SKIS should be reported to the Sheriff’s Office


all abilities in Grand Teton Park & Teton Pass. 877-754-4887 PG 51

SKI & SNOWBOARD RESORTS GRAND TARGHEE RESORT On the west side of the Tetons 1-800TARGHEE PG 47 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT General Info 1-888-DEEPSNO; snow conditions 307-733-2291; Ski School and activities 307739-2779 PG 33 NIGHT SKIING AT SNOW KING RESORT Tuesday-Saturday until 8:00pm. SNOW KING SKI RESORT 307-733-5200

GRAND TETON PARK SNOWMOBILE RENTALS Guided OR unguided snowmobile tours to Togwotee Pass, Yellowstone & Granite Hot Springs: Family Friendly on groomed trail, clothing included. *Free Shuttle Van, Airport drop-off 800-563- 6469, 307-733-1980 PG 63 HIGH COUNTRY SNOWMOBILE TOURS Day & multi-day tours to Yellowstone, Togwotee, Gros Ventre, Granite Hot Springs, & Greys River. Breakfast & hot lunch, clothing, transportation. An experience of a lifetime. 733-5017, 800-524-0130. PG 65 JACKSON HOLE SNOWMOBILE TOURS Over 20 years of family guided tours. Yellowstone, Granite Hot Springs, Togwotee Pass & Continental Divide. Current model powder & 4-stroke snowmobiles, experience makes the difference. 733-6850, 800-633-1733 PG 63 ROCKY MOUNTAIN SNOWMOBILE TOURS Day & multi-day tours of Yellowstone, Gros Ventre, Togwotee, Granite Hot Springs & Greys River. Day tours include breakfast, lunch & transportation. 733-2237 800-647-2561. email: PG 65 SNOWMOBILEPACKAGE.COM Guided tours to Yellowstone, Old Faithful or Canyon. Tours to all areas: Granite Hot Springs, Togwotee Pass, Greys River. Rentals on groomed trails. *Free Shuttle Bus 307-543-2052, 800-924-2052 PG 63 TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE Premier Snowmobile location. Guided & unguided tours, rentals available, package rates. Featuring trips to Yellowstone & Togwotee Pass. Cabins, lodge rooms & suites. 307-543-2847 or 800-543-2847, PG 65 TRIANGLE C RANCH TOURS Multi-day trips on the Continental Divide Trail. Polaris powder machines, clothing included, transportation available. Lodging, snowmobile from your cabin. 800661-4928 PG 4

SKI & SNOWBOARD SCHOOLS GRAND TARGHEE SNOWSPORTS SCHOOL is under the direction of Mark Hanson.1-800-TARGHEE (827-4433) PG 47 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN SPORTS SCHOOL The complete mountain experience with children’s programs, private and group ski, snowboard, telemark or adaptive lessons, and specialty camps. 307739-2779 PG 33

Photos Bob Woodall – Grand Tetons, right; Teton Village, center; sleigh ride at Triangle C Ranc, right


733-4052 or through the Guest Service Center, 739-2753. SUBLETTE COUNTY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Downtown Pinedale, Wyoming. 307-367-2242 SKI & SNOWBOARD STORAGE & LOCKERS Leave your gear at the mountain, convenient lockers & basket check available at the Bridger Center. 739-2755 PG 33 TETON COUNTY LIBRARY has 50,000 books including a skiing and mountain climbing section, periodicals, newspapers, historical information and photographs. M-Th 10-9, Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-5. Closed legal holidays. Corner of Snow King & Virginian Lane. 733-2164 TETON VALLEY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Downtown Driggs, Idaho. 208-354-2500 US POST OFFICE: Teton Village: M-F 9:30-4, Sat 9-12, 733-3575; In Jackson: New P.O.-corner of Powderhorn Ln & Maple Way; Old P.O.corner of Pearl Av. & Millward St. 733-3650. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381

SKI MOUNTAINEERING, AVALANCHE INFORMATION, GUIDE SERVICES AVALANCHE HAZARD & WEATHER FORECAST 307-733-2664 see story PAGE 39 EXUM MOUNTAIN GUIDES From beginners to experts, Exum has a guide for you and Marmot has the outdoor gear you need. Backcountry skiing, ski touring, avalanche programs, winter mountaineering, Ice Climbing., (307)733-2297 PG 51 GRAND TARGHEE GUIDES Guided snowcat trips to Peaked Mountain, mountain tours, X-C, backcountry, and alpine tours, 1-800TARGHEE PG 47 JACKSON HOLE BACKCOUNTRY GUIDES Experience the Teton backcountry with a certified guide to reach untracked powder and challenging runs. Call Jackson Hole Mountain Sports School, 307739-2779. PG 50 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968. Join JHMG for a day of untracked powder & solitude. Novice to expert ski tours, Teton ski mountaineering, Level 1,2 & 3 avalanche courses & ice climbing. AMGA accredited. 307-733-4979 PG 50 RENDEZVOUS BACKCOUNTRY TOURS Operates the only hut system in the Tetons, allowing you an unparalleled backcountry experience with our professional guides. Since 1986. Daily Tours for

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GRAND TARGHEE NORDIC CENTER Offers 15 KM of groomed and skating lanes. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 47 JACKSON HOLE NORDIC CENTER Located in Teton Village, it is a full service X-C operation, with 17 KM of machine groomed trails and track including a new dog loop. Full & half day tours into Grand Teton National Park. Rentals, clinic & lessons. 307-7392629. PG 33 NORDIC CENTERS Six maintained tracks and centers are open to the public in the Jackson Hole & Yellowstone area. See PAGE 16

TUBE PARKS-TERRAIN PARKS KING TUBES SNOW TUBING PARK At Snow King Resort GRAND TARGHEE TUBING PARK At the base of Targhee Resort 1800-TARGHEE PG 47 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Check out the terrain parks, halfpipe, and new Burton Stash Parks. PG 33

HELI & CAT–SKIING ALASKA RENDEZVOUS LODGE & HELI GUIDES, a full-service lodge, operates out of Valdez, Alaska, from March 1 through September. We offer full-service guides for Heli-skiing, whitewater rafting & fishing., 307-734-0721, 907-822-3300 PG 57 GRAND TARGHEE SNOWCAT POWDER ADVENTURES 500 acres reserved for Snow Cat skiing at Grand Targhee Resort 1-800TARGHEE PG 47 HIGH MOUNTAIN HELI-SKIING flies skiers into the mountains around Jackson Hole for day-long powder-skiing excursions for intermediate to expert skiers. 733-3274 PG 58 VALDEZ HELI-SKI GUIDES Our heli-skiing is unlike anything you could ever imagine. Runs are long & adventurous, up to 5,000 vertical. Deep powder is the norm. We cater to advanced & expert skiers & riders so groups are always small., 907-835-4528 PG 56

SLED DOG ADVENTURES JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG ADVENTURES Half & full day trips into the Teton backcountry & Granite Hot Springs. Learn mushing first hand, drive your own sled team. Meals, transportation, supplemental clothing provided. 307-733-7388 PG 61

SNOWCOACH TOURS — YELLOWSTONE YELLOWSTONE SNOWCOACH EXCURSIONS Triangle C Ranch Ride in the luxurious comfort of an over-the-snow Ford Excursion. Experienced & knowledgeable guides. Private trips available. 800661-4928 PG 4

WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS SLEIGH RIDES — TOURS AJ DEROSA’S SNAKE RIVER SLEIGH RIDES Savor a quiet ride along the Snake River to our riverside camp for a Western dinner or lunch in an authentic tipi. View wildlife & take in the fabulous winter scenery while relaxing in our horse drawn sleigh. Group & private trips available., (307)732-2628. PG 15 NATIONAL ELK REFUGE SLEIGH RIDES View elk, mule deer, coyotes, eagles, bison, & more, while riding a horse drawn sleigh thru the National Elk Refuge. Departs from the JH visitors’ center. 532 N Cache 307-733-0277; 1-800-772-5386 PG 16 PAUL’S PHOTO SAFARIS Winter is one of those magical times of year when the wildlife is concentrated in and around the Jackson Hole valley floor. Be my guests and join me in my customized safari van for a relaxed photo safari you will be talking about for a long time. 877-607-6377 PG 16 WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL Join a professional biologist in a safari-style vehicle equipped with roof hatches for an expedition your family will not soon forget. 307-733-2623 PG 11

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Lodging Directory Flat Creek Inn & Mart

Located directly across from the National Elk Refuge & 2-miles north of the Jackson Town Square and 2 miles from GT National Park, our convenient location provides guests with easy access to everything you will need to make your vacation a memorable one! Awaken to breathtaking views of the Gros Ventre Mountains and the Sleeping Indian. 1035 North Highway 89 Jackson, Wyoming 83001 1-800-438-9338 307-733-5276


We make it cheaper and easier for you to ski the legendary Jackson Hole Mountain Resort while staying slopeside. Filled to the rafters with ambiance, we offer both private rooms with private bathrooms, and the chance to mingle with your fellow travelers, Hostelstyle. High season: 1 or 2 persons $79, 3 or 4 Persons $89. Low season: 1 or 2 persons $69, 3 or 4 Persons $79.Bunk room:$25-32. Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415,

Jackson Hole Super 8

Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city bus and ski shuttle. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator, cable TV with HBO and free local calls. Ski packages & group rates. 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833

Mountain Property Management

We offer a wide selection of Jackson Hole lodging, featuring vacation rental homes, condos and cabins to suit all tastes and budgets. A broad selection of properties cater to the diverse requirements of visitors. Rentals range in size from one-bedroom condos to custom luxury mountain estates. Many properties are located minutes from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Grand Teton National Park or the southern entrance to Yellowstone National Park. Jackson, Wyoming 83001 1-800-992-9948 307-733-1648


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Alpenhof Lodge

The European-style Alpenhof Lodge is located next to the tram in Teton Village. The Alpenhof is known for friendly professional service, cozy rooms and creative Swiss cuisine. Many rooms feature fireplaces and/or balconies and everyone enjoys a complimentary breakfast to start the day. P.O. Box 288, Teton Village, WY 83025 1-800-732-3244

Grand Targhee Resort

Each of the three Western-style lodges at Grand Targhee are located within steps of the lifts. Ski, board or hike “home” to the Targhee or Teewinot Lodges, or the Sioux Lodge suites. We also offer a wide range of condominiums, vacation homes and townhomes a short distance away. Alta, Wyoming 83001 1-800-TARGHEE

Jackson Hole Resort Lodging We offer the largest number of Jackson Hole vacation lodging rental properties in Teton Village, as well as condo rentals and homes at The Aspens and Teton Pines. Whether you’re looking for traditional Jackson Hole mountain charm or a more luxurious lodging experience, we have it all. McCollister Drive, Teton Village, WY 83025 800-443-8613 Fax: 307-734-1077,

Motel 6 Resort in Jackson

Two miles from historic town square, 1 block from free bus shuttle, Next to Kmart shopping center with shops and restaurants. All guest rooms were completely remodeled spring 2009. Guest rooms surround a park like setting for picnics and our swimming pool. Guest laundries, free local calls, free morning coffee,WIFI access & expanded cable. Pet friendly & kids under 18 stay free 600 So. Hwy 89, Jackson, Wy 83001 307-733-1620 Fax: 307-734-9175 Reservations Number 1-800-466-8356

Painted Buffalo Inn

Discover the color of a great vacation at the Painted Buffalo Inn. We offer comfortable rooms for the budget conscious traveler. Unwind in our sauna or indoor pool and wake up to a continental breakfast. Weʼre located 3 blocks from the town square with a shuttle stop on property. Mention this ad when booking and receive 10% off when you stay between 12/1/10 – 4/3/11. 400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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($) Cost Per Night up to $100; ($$) Cost Per Night up to $250; ($$$) Cost Per Night over $250 Web site & blog keeping you up to date with Jackson Hole Blog postings by Wade McKoy and Bob Woodall cover the myriad activities in and around Jackson Hole and Yellowstone. From skiing the mountains, to fishing the rivers, to gazing at geysers. • Facebook Page: • Dispatches Posted 3X Week • Videos and Photo Stories • Online Visitor’s Guides • Web Cams • Avalanche Forecasts • Snow Reports • Weather Forecasts • Photo Galleries • Photo Store • Area Maps • Jackson Hole Ski Posters • News Items & Current Events • RSS Feeds • Links to Local Web Sites

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JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Mountain Characteristics Skiable terrain: 2,500 acres, 10% beginner, 40% intermediate, 50% advanced. Base elevation 6,311 ft., Summit elevation: 10,450 ft. Vertical rise: 4,139 ft. (longest continuous in the country). 22 miles of machine groomed terrain. Longest run: 4.7 miles. Average annual snowfall: 38 feet (456 inches).

Ski Lifts 1 100-passenger Aerial Tram 1 eight-passenger gondola, 6 quad chairs (2 high speed) 2 triple chairs, 2 double chair 1 magic carpet surface lift

SNOW KING SKI AREA Mountain Characteristics Skiable terrain: 400 plus acres, 15% beginner, 25% intermediate, 60% advanced. Vertical rise: 1,571 ft. Longest run: 9/10 mile. Base Elevation: 6,300 ft. Top elevation 7,871 ft. 300 acres of machine groomed terrain. • Night Skiing. • KingTubes Snow Tubing Park. • Half Pipe & Terrain Park

Ski Lifts 1 triple chair, 2 double chairs 1 surface tow.


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Grand Teton 13,770 ft.

Mount Owen 12,928 ft.

Mount Moran 12,605 ft.


South Teton 12,514 ft.

Middle Teton 12,804 ft.

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Peaked Mt. Elevation 9,700 ft.

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Lift serviced terrain: 2,000 acres, 10% beginner, 70% intermediate, 20% advanced. Vertical rise: 2,000 ft. Longest run: 2.5 miles. Base elevation: 8,000 ft. Top elevation: 10,000 ft. Average annual snowfall: 42 ft. (504 inches). 500 acres groomed terrain.

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Photos: Bob Woodall NORTH CACHE














START BUS STOPS Schedules, Routes, Stops & Fares are available at Bus Stops, Lodgings, & Information Centers, or call 733-4521.












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START Bus S N O W K I N G AV E offices & Jackson Public Works



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Jackson Whole Grocer







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1 LODGING Antler Motel – 16 Meeting Place for National Elk Refuge Cowboy Village Resort – 20 WYOMING 89 To: GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE Sleigh Rides Elk Country Inn – 18 26 NATIONAL PARKS ELEVATION: 6,209 FEET Jackson Hole & 191 Flat Creek Inn & Mart – 1 JACKSON HOLE AIRPORT Greater 1,892 METERS 189 Ye l l o w s t o n e 49er Inn – 21 TOGWOTEE PASS MAP NOT TO SCALE Visitors’ Jackson Hole Super 8 – 28 © 2011 Focus Productions Inc. Center PERRY ST Mountain Property Management – 25 TETON COUNTY U. S. FOREST HISTORICAL CENTER SERVICE Motel 6 Resort in Jackson – 27 MERCELL Painted Buffalo Inn – 17 ••• H O M E R A N C H Teton County PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO PA R K I N G Recreation LOT Center GILL AVE DD Camera Corral – 14 ••• MILLER Wild By Nature Gallery – 3 PARK 2 TOWN SKI & SPORTING GOODS SHOPS 5 PA R K I N G 4 3 K JH MUSEUM LOT Headwall Recycle Sports – 26 EE DELONEY AVE S T. J O H N ' S Hoback Sports – 19 R JACKSON C H O S P I TA L T 7 Jack Dennis Sports – 12 6 A TOWN L 9 10 8 F Igneous Custom Skis – 30 SQUARE SNOWMOBILING EAST BROADWAY ••• WEST. BROADWAY ••• High Country Snowmobiling – 29 11 12 17 Jackson Hole 14 Snowmobile Tours – 23 PEARL AVE 13 15 JACKSON TOWN HALL ••• 18 Rocky Mountain Tours – 29 $ BANK 16 21 Q r SHERIFF'S COUNTY JAIL Togwotee Snowmobile – 33 TOWN OFFICE U.S. POST 19 20 T FLA

APPAREL Headwall Recycle Sports – 26 Hoback Sports – 19 Jack Dennis Outdoor Shop – 12 ART - JEWELRY - GIFTS -HOME DanShelley Jewelers – 4 Hines Goldsmith – 7 Jackson Hole Resort Store – 8 DINING & ENTERTAINMENT Billy's Giant Hamburgers – 6 The Bunnery – 5 Cadillac Grille – 6 Jackson Hole Buffalo Meats – 31 McDonald's of Jackson Hole – 24 Mountain High Pizza – 11 Snake River Brewery & Restaurant – 22 Sweetwater Restaurant – 15 Teton Steakhouse – 13 MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CARE St. John’s Family Health & Urgent Care – 32 St. John’s Emergency Department – 10 Teton Orthopaedics – 9 MOUNTAIN GUIDES & HELICOPTER SKIING High Mountain Heli-Skiing - 23 Jackson Hole Mountain Guides – 2


w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Celebrating over 28 years, conveniently located on the town square. Serving all natural meat and game, fresh seafood and pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with the freshest ingredients makes the Cadillac Grille a local favorite. Premium well drinks, an excellent wine list and microbrews. Join us nightly in our lounge for Happy Hour 5-7 p.m.

733-3279. Reservations advised. Large groups are welcome Open daily at 11:30 a.m., dinner at 5:30 p.m. email:

On the Town Square, next to Billy’s Giant Hamburger

307.733.4159 800.543.6328

100% Natural MADE IN






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High H igh School h l Rd R



We’re a Jackson Hole MUST-SEE! Try free samples in our factory store on Highway 89 at Smith’s Plaza.


Hwy 89

Sou th



Hwy 22




 .ATURAL call 800.543.6328 for a free catalog

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2 0 1 1 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R


Wade McKoy / Jeff Leger

Jackson Hole Skier Magazine 2011  

The Jackson Hole Skiing Magazine is a winter travelers’ guide for vacationers to the Jackson Hole Ski Resort, Grand Targhee Ski Resort, and...

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