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2016

ADVENTURE Guide GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE

Guide

America’s Best Idea National Parks Celebrate 100 Years

101 Things To Do

Fun & Games in Mountain Country

Photo Features

Wildlife, Scenic, Recreation

yellowstoneadventureguide.com

23rd Annual Issue

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Contents FEATURES 6

18 29 30 31 32 34 36 40 42 46 48 50 51 52 56 60 64 68 72 75 78 78 79 80 82 84

America’s Best Idea — National Parks Celebrate 100 Years 101 Things To Do In Vacation Lands Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center What’s In Your Pack? Bear Safety Alpine Medical Advice Preventative Foot Care for Hikers Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Snow King Mountain Resort Grand Targhee Mountain Resort Town of Jackson Town of Cody Cody Nite Rodeo Buffalo Bill Dam Hiking Climbing Community Pathways Mountain Biking Fishing Scenic & Whitewater Rafting Sea Kayaking Stand Up Paddle Boarding Stop Aquatic Nuisance Species 1% For Kids Shooting Range Horseback Riding Motorcycle Road Trips & Tips

86 88 88 89 90

Dining Guide Lodging Directory Map – Town of Jackson Index of Advertisers Map – Greater Yellowstone

MAPS & DIRECTORIES

Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, dba Focus Productions, Inc. (fpi) Editors: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Mike Calabrese Photo Editor: Eric Rohr Art Direction: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: Debra Snyder focusgroup@focusproductions.com, 307-733-6995

Contributing Photographers: Henry H. Holdsworth, Taylor Phillips, Daryl L. Hunter, Brian McCooey, Eric Rohr, Scott Smith, Bob Woodall, Wade McKoy

Copyright 2016 by Focus Productions, Inc. P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.


Contents: Camping on Buffalo Bill Reservoir near Cody, Wyoming; Mike Maples (rt), Brad Gamble (left); Wade McKoy photo Cover: Sea kayaking Jackson Lake, Grand Teton National Park; Wade McKoy photo

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America’s Best Idea National Park Service Celebrates 100 Years

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HENRY H. HOLDSWORTH / WILD BY NATURE GALLERY; DARYL L. HUNTER / GRIZZLY COUNTRY WILDLIFE ADVENTURES; TAYLOR PHILLIPS / ECO TOUR ADVENTURES; BRIAN MCCOOEY / YELLOWSTONE DAY TOURS STORY

BY

TODD WILKINSON

Bob Woodall (right)

On our crown jewel centennial, ponder this

radical thought: this land belongs to you.

As you wisely hitch cans of bear spray to the

hip and beeline toward favorite wildland haunts in Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks this summer, take a minute to reflect on something few Americans do: Why do these crown

jewel nature preserves even exist?

Taylor Phillips / Eco Tour Adventures

Did you know—many citizens don’t—that these public land destinations belong to you as part of your democratic birthright? And do you realize that, once upon a time, there was formidable local opposition to their creation that, without conservation advocacy from people like you, they probably wouldn’t be here now? “We take so much for granted,” my friend Jack Turner, a legendary alpinist, longtime climbing guide in the Tetons and writer of the cult classic The Abstract Wild told me during a chat in Jackson, Wyoming, not long ago. “People, especially young people forget the ‘why.’ Can you imagine, given the present political infighting in this country, and the dysfunction in Congress, of trying to protects parks like Yellowstone and

Daryl L. Hunter / Grizzly Country Wildlife Adventures

Grizzly cubs, Yellowstone National Park

Wolves, Gibbon River, Yellowstone National Park

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Star Spring, Beehive Geyser, the Firehole River, Yellowstone National Park


Bull moose

The Tetons at sunrise, Schwabacher Landing, Snake River

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Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery

Daryl L. Hunter / Grizzly Country Wildlife Adventures

Yet amid all of these events, something extraordinary happened a century ago on August 25, 1916: the U.S. National Park Service was officially born with President Wilson’s signature, an unprecedented idea proclaimed by the late writer Wallace Stegner as the best idea this country ever had and one since exported around the globe.

Mountain Bluebird


Grand Teton today? It wouldn’t happen.” To gain a little perspective, travel back to 1916. In that distant year, Theodore Roosevelt declined an invitation to run for president as a Progressive Party candidate. Down along the country’s southern border, Mexican General Francisco “Pancho” Villa led a short-lived invasion of the U.S. into New Mexico. That spring, Weegham Park, later to become known as Wrigley Field—home of the Chicago Cubs— opened in the Windy City. Boeing flew its first plane into the sky. John D. Rockefeller was declared the world’s first billionaire. Woodrow Wilson was re-elected as president later in the fall and Jeannette Rankin of Montana became the first woman to serve in Congress. Of course, America was also on the brink of entering the First World War. Yet amid all of these events, something extraordinary happened a century ago on August 25, 1916: the U.S. National Park Service was officially born with President Wilson’s signature, an unprece-

EXPLORE E

Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery

Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks

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Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery: bobcat, bison, wolves

Over the years, public

opinion polls have rated the Park Service as one of the

most beloved institutions in

government and identified

park rangers among the most

respected civil servants.

Bobcat on the Madison River, Yellowstone National Park

Bison covered in frost and snow, Yellowstone National Park

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Gray wolves, Lamar Valley, Yellowstone National Park

dented idea proclaimed by the late writer Wallace Stegner as the best idea this country ever had and one since exported around the globe. Indeed, the Park Service’s Centennial, which recognizes a system that today includes over 400 protected areas, covering a land mass surpassing 84 million acres, has a presence in all 50 states and, of course, Washington, D.C., plus such extensions of U.S. territory as Puerto Rico, Saipan. and the Virgin Islands. Over the years, public opinion polls have rated the Park Service as one of the most beloved institutions in government and identified park rangers among the most respected civil servants.

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Yellowstone and Grand Teton dwell within a trove of big iconic parks that include the Grand Canyon, Yosemite, Everglades in Florida, Great Smoky Mountains, and Acadia in New England. But between all of these is a diverse array of historical sites, national recreation areas, birth and dying places of notable Americans, battlefields, and even map points of infamy, such as those where Japanese Americans were forcibly interned during World War II, where enslavement of African Americans was carried out, and where Native Americans were slaughtered by the U.S. Cavalry. Profoundly, all are meant to summon reflection not only on what America was but

what it still can be. This 22.5 million-acre region, the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem with Yellowstone and Grand Teton at its geographic heart, is the setting for where the big-bang moment, foreshadowing the Park Service’s 1916 founding, actually began. Some 44 years earlier, in 1872, Yellowstone was set aside by an act of Congress as the planet’s first national park, though the genesis did not really commence there either. In 1832, while coming up the Missouri River, painter George Catlin knew that settlement would bring an end to the unbroken life-ways of native people and vast herds of bison. He advanced in his journals the ethics of

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Some claimed that preserving the landscape

the real way to grow prosperity was through

exploiting natural resources through logging, mining, drilling for oil and leasing federal

lands for livestock grazing. Yellowstone and

Grand Teton are instead powerful emblems of

the economic engine of conservation.

Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery

The Teton Range, Snake River Overlook

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Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery

would cause economic devastation and that


Lower Falls, Yellowstone River, Grand View point

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What Yellowstone really symbolizes, says Yellowstone’s chief historian

Lee Whittlesey, is that in the face of Manifest Destiny sweeping across

the frontier – conquering wild

nature, taming it, shrinking it back

and eliminating wildlife – was a bold

Daryl L. Hunter / Grizzly Country Wildlife Adventures

Taylor Phillips / Eco Tour Adventures

expression of human self-restraint.

Red fox

Big horn sheep

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Taylor Phillips / Eco Tour Adventures

Brian McCooey / Yellowstone Day Tours

Pine martin

Bald eagle

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Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery

Bull elk in frosted grass

“preservation and protection” for both inside a “nation’s Park” accomplished through “some great protecting policy of government.” Yellowstone is the place where it actually happened, though its origins were not totally pure. Yes, a spirit of benevolence, aided by breathtaking landscape paintings by artist Thomas Moran, did convince Congress to permanently safeguard Yellowstone’s geothermal

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wonders. But a huge motivation stemmed too from the desires of railroad titans who wanted a place in the West to help fill their train cars with Eastern tourists. Lee Whittlesey, Yellowstone’s chief historian, says that regardless, the expression was radical for the times, and the ingeniousness of it only grows in esteem with each passing generation. In May 2016, National Geographic magazine

published a special edition devoted entirely to Yellowstone and penned by Bozeman writer David Quammen that explores that theme. What Yellowstone really symbolizes, Whittlesey says, is that in the face of Manifest Destiny sweeping across the frontier—conquering wild nature, taming it, shrinking it back and eliminating wildlife—was a bold expression of human self-restraint.

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Daryl L. Hunter / Grizzly Country Wildlife Adventures

“The very notion of setting aside the most spectacular

places in the country for everyone, rather than just for

the rich or nobility, came from us, and it, in turn, spread

across the world. It is part of who we are as a people, embedded in our civic DNA.”

— Dayton Duncan, co-producer of The National Parks: America’s Best Idea with Ken Burns

The grizzly bear known as Blondy, Grand Teton National Park

Elk cow and calf traverse the thermal wonders of Yellowstone.

Just as with Yellowstone, neighboring Grand Teton, which morphed into its full modern boundaries in Jackson Hole in 1950, faced stiff local anti-federal opposition with its creation. Some claimed that preserving the landscape would cause economic devastation and that the real way to grow prosperity was through exploiting natural resources through logging, mining, drilling for oil and leasing federal lands for livestock grazing. Yellowstone and Grand Teton are instead powerful emblems of the economic engine of conservation.

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With the restoration of wolves that began in the mid 1990s and recovery of a free-falling grizzly bear population, Yellowstone and Grand Teton are the only parks in the Lower 48 that still have their full complement of original wildlife. Often described as a U.S. version of the Serengeti, given the diversity of large freeranging species such as elk, bison, pronghorn, deer, moose, and bighorn sheep, the parks and surrounding lands are magnets for travelers from around the world. The nature-based tourism economy of the

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national parks alone is worth more than $1 billion annually, with grizzlies and wolves serving as marquee attractions even more popular than trips to Old Faithful Geyser. We make pilgrimages to the parks as part of an ongoing sacred ritual, along the same paths where John Muir, Theodore Roosevelt, the rich, the famous, and the powerful have also trekked. But no matter what our personal station in life, Yellowstone and Grand Teton are ours, equally, with them. Yale University professor Susan G. Clark,


Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery

American journalist Todd Wilkinson, who lives in Bozeman, Montana, has been writing

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Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery

who founded the Northern Rockies Conservation Cooperative in Jackson, Wyoming, a hub for wildlife research, told me the danger now is of the region being loved to death. The very uncommon, otherworldly mystique of the region, makes it glow brighter like a beacon, causing more to seek it out. But, Clark maintains, there are limits. Consider: In 1916, around 327,000 visitors descended on all of the 35 national parks then in the system. Last year, Yellowstone and Grand Teton each broke visitation records with more than four million logged in each park. Systemwide, more than 307 million visits were made to national parks in 2015, bringing the total going back the beginning of the 20th century to more than 13 billion. Yellowstone Superintendent Dan Wenk said the day is rapidly approaching when the park will have to limit the number of people allowed to enter during the peak summer season. The good news for readers of this magazine is that, for now, those who venture more than a mile down a backcountry trail leave the crowds behind. That’s good for solitude-seeking wildlife too that need secure habitat which isn’t inundated by people. And between a record number of people moving to Greater Yellowstone and the effects of climate change, species are coming under added stress. In a story on development trends in the region I penned for National Geographic, Clark told me the survival of Greater Yellowstone is not about just asking wildlife to adapt: it’s about humans altering our behavior to help accommodate that adaptation. Clark, now writing a book titled Signals from the Future: Greater Yellowstone of Tomorrow? is concerned that although the hallmark of Greater Yellowstone today is that things like wildlife migrations still play out in grand fashion, human population pressures and climate change stressing wildlife could cause things to unravel. “Extinction of species is like a big tsunami that’s gathering worldwide and it’s going to crash on the shore of Greater Yellowstone,” Clark said. “The survival of Greater Yellowstone is not about just asking wildlife to adapt, it’s about humans altering our behavior to help accommodate that adaptation.” Dayton Duncan, who co-produced the popular PBS television series titled The National Parks: America’s Best Idea with Ken Burns, told me this, in an interview when President Obama made his first trip to Yellowstone with his family in 2009. “Yellowstone is a uniquely American invention,” Duncan said. “The National Park System is also an American idea. The very notion of setting aside the most spectacular places in the country for everyone, rather than just for the rich or nobility, came from us, and it, in turn, spread across the world. It is part of who we are as a people, embedded in our civic DNA.” The best thing that you can do to save Yellowstone and Grand Teton in this Centennial Year of the National Park Service: Realize they belong to you, that you can use your voice to tell your friends and elected officials they matter. You may never own a giant piece of private property but together with other citizens you hold the title to something better: our national parks.

Marmot parent and cub in fallen Douglas fir tree, Grand Teton National Park

about the West and Greater Yellowstone for 30 years. His work appears in National Geographic among many different publications and he is the author of several books including the recent, critically-acclaimed Grizzlies of Pilgrim Creek:

An Intimate Portrait of 399, the Most Famous Bear of Greater Yellowstone featuring images by Jackson Hole nature photographer Thomas Mangelsen. Book only available here: mangelsen.com/grizzly.

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101 Things

To Do

Big

playgound up here in the

Teton/Yellowstone region. Sometimes even the locals struggle over all the choices in this epic backyard. Visitors aren’t the only folks who dip into the guide you’re holding. Locals sometimes need a reminder of the generous opportunities nature and enterprise hold for them. And, like visitors, we’ll stop by our first-rate visitor centers, libraries, bookstores, and restaurants to pick up new insights into our playground. Following are some of the activities worthy of a list and a look!

Wade McKoy

Vacation Adventures in Mountain Country

NATIONAL PARKS

America’s best idea? You won’t get much argument from folks who’ve actually visited them. A single entrance fee gains access to both Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) and Yellowstone National Park (YNP). The entrance stations are not information booths, though; better to visit the many well-cached information centers found in the parks themselves and gateway towns. The folks queuing behind your vehicle will appreciate your efficiency and courtesy. Especially those shuttling a boatload of restless youngsters. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the country’s first and largest national park and national forest, the farthest point from a road outside Alaska, and, not surprisingly, wildlife galore. Picnic—Hey, you’re in the land of countless settings for that outdoor table. Pick up some

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A 300-mm lens magnifies the Tetons, 13 miles distant from Shadow Mountain’s hillsides of arrowleaf balsamroot.

sammies, cookies, and drinks from our grab-ngo establishments and head for the riverbanks, lakeshores, or scenic overlooks. Put that camera to good use on the scenery and your group celebrating life in the Rockies. Slow down and watch for wildlife— Sometimes called the American Serengeti, YNP and GTNP are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and myriad small animals. Go early in the morning and

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keep your eyes peeled. Lamar and Hayden valleys in YNP are good bets for sighting bison, wolves, and grizzly bears. Moose frequent willowed bottomlands. Stay alert, though, even on strolls around park developments. And never approach or feed wildlife! Up your odds for great photos or experiences by taking a wildlife tour with qualified guides. Wildlife Tours—Jackson Hole is home to wildlife tour companies that can help reveal the region’s flora and fauna for wildlife enthusiasts,


photographers, and folks who simply want to soak up the area’s natural wonders. Tours range from part to full-day excursions in both Grand Teton and Yellowstone parks and surrounding national forest. Waterfalls—The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is the granddaddy of the many roadside water features, but a hike can reveal the park’s more obscure, dramatic torrents. In the Tetons thousands of sightseers trek to Hidden Falls, which, for many, begins

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with a boat ride across glorious Jenny Lake. Smell the wild roses—The mountains are famous for a profusion of wildflowers. Some are tiny, especially the ones above timberline, so look closely. The show starts in late May and June, when dazzling displays of color chase the snowline as it recedes into the mountains. Old Faithful Inn—Of course the Old Faithful Geyser is on your must-see list, but don’t pass up a venture into the spectacular Old

Faithful Inn. Well over 100 years old, rich in history, the inn is considered the largest log structure in the world. Ranger Programs—From Ranger Adventure Hikes to Family Campfire Evenings to Stars Over Yellowstone, these programs offer something for the whole family. The park newspaper contains all the schedules. Online http://www.nps. gov/yell/index.htm, go to Plan Your Visit. Get on the bus—Tired of having to watch

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There is a golden moment, just as you enter the smooth, slick tongue of a big

Photo courtesy Sand’s Whitewater

rapid, when time stands still and the world is quiet despite the chaos around you.

The Snake River Canyon’s Big Kahuna rapid, one of the many fun excursions on western Wyoming rivers.

Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center—In downtown Dubois, Wyoming, experience these stunning, full-size bighorns in breathtaking realism set amidst their natural flora and

Bob Woodall

the road while everyone else gets to look for bears? Then savor Yellowstone from the same perspective as early park visitors by touring in the luxury of a refurbished “Historic Yellow Bus.” Photograph the sights—Digital, film, recorder, whatever. Everybody’s a pro out here. Get a long lens, too. Again, don’t ever approach wild animals! They can easily outrun humans and simply aren’t as fond of us as we are of them. Passport to your national parks—Buy a “Passport Book” at the park visitor center. A colorful way to track your lifetime travels across America. After each visit to a park or monument (there are 390), take the passport book to the Cancellation Station and get it stamped.

EDUCATION

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Kids love to ride horseback.

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geology. Photos and hands-on exhibits transport visitors into the majestic range and habits of these powerful animals. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information. Muse on!—The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum recently opened its new facility two blocks north of the Jackson Town Square. View the settlement of Jackson Hole through artifacts, documents, photos, books and the oral histories of trappers, homesteaders, dude ranchers, and adventurers. Libraries—Books, music, movies, lectures, computers, and insight into just about every community in mountain country. Great havens for tired travelers and curious kids, especially if the weather is a bit uncooperative. Bookstores—Some with coffee, pastries, newspapers, Wi-Fi—but all with books and settings that enrich readers young and old! Music festivals—A score of music events await mountain-country travelers. The world-

CULTURE


class Grand Targhee Bluegrass and Targhee Fest and music camps fill the hills with tunes. Jackson’s Center for the Arts hosts summer music and dance concerts, stage presentations, and art shows. Teton Village continues its popular free Concert on the Commons performance series, and in Victor, Idaho, free highprofile concerts in the park bring weekly gatherings to its Music on Main events. Jackson Hole Live! will be staging a series of 4 outdoor concerts at the base of Snow King Mountain. This summer’s lineup spotlights The Revivalists, Galactic, The Record Company, and Shovels and Rope. Art fairs—There’s no better way to celebrate nature’s art-inspiring elements than at one of the many artists’ fairs highlighting summer weekends throughout mountain country. Wander through festive outdoor galleries and watch artisans in the creative act. Antique shows—Snap up a bargain, maybe even a piece of history, at one of the many antique road shows hosted in our mountain towns. Classic car shows—Americans love their cars, and none more so than the auto buffs who stage the Jackson Hole Rendezvous from June 5-7 on the main street lawn of the Virginian Hotel. Sponsored by the Eastern Idaho Early Iron Organization, the event dazzles young and old with restored gems from the golden age of the U.S. auto industry. Want more than just window-shopping? Then view or bid on vintage cars displayed at the Silver Collector Car Show and Auction, July 4-5 in Teton Village. Rendezvous Royale—Here’s a Western extravaganza that combines it all: Western art, Western music, Western dining, Western fashion, and Western food, right in the heart of Cody, Wyoming, a town with a name as Western as they come. Events start in August and run through September. Fall Arts Festival—A major Jackson Hole shindig, commencing around Labor Day and running through mid September. The confab is highlighted by ranch tours, culinary events, and endless activities. Gallery walks—Stroll through the many art galleries in mountain towns. It doesn’t cost to look! Join the organized “walks,” often complete with free food! Walk around the town—Boardwalks and wide-open shop-lined streets from the old West are central to every gateway town in Teton / Yellowstone country. Jackson’s town square is set off by elk-antler archways and ringed by boardwalks and historic buildings (again, don’t forget the camera). Unique shops, eateries, and galleries characterize these mountain towns. Go shopping—Therapeutic, patriotic, and economically stimulating, shopping in mountain country is a gas. From carved bears to elk antler items to unique clothing to everyday dining delights, regional enterprises know how to treat the customer right. Drive-in theaters—Not many of these left in the world, but one of the more famous, the Spud Drive-in Theatre, just south of Driggs, Idaho, is a trip back in time. Look for the giant spud on the old red flatbed truck, just off the

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highway between Victor and Driggs, Idaho. Film festivals—Fall film festivals this season include the Jackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival, September 28-October 2. Showcased at the Jackson Center for the Arts downtown. Local hint: Watch the local paper for Frank’s Annual Fall Film Festival. Those in the know go! Live theater—Family fun right in the heart of towns like Jackson Hole, Cody, and West Yellowstone, some even hosting dinner theater for eats and antics. Go out to eat—An army runs on its stomach, and an army of tourists has countless dining opportunities out West. Take advantage of

mountain country’s diverse gustatory offerings. Pick up a Jackson Hole Dining Guide, or go online at jhdiningguide.com Fire department chicken fries and barbecues—Throughout summer volunteer fire departments throw fundraising chicken-fries and BBQs. All visitors are welcomed of course. A great way to meet locals and experience a sweet slice of American pie—and to keep many of the volunteers well equipped. Dance to the music—Don’t just dance to the music, dance to live music. Many bars and taverns offer nightly live music. Get out and kick up your heels! Learn to Western Swing:

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“You can enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape. Horses can cover lots of territory, and in a short time riders can be deep into the mountains. And doing it the way it was done

Bob Woodall photos

by Indians, mountain men, and cowboys.” — Cameron Garnick

The indigenous Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat trout takes a flyfisher’s fly.

free lessons at 7:30 on Thursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar. Learn to Square Dance: another Western tradition, master the dosido and allemande left on Tuesday nights at the Rustic Pine Tavern in Dubois, Wyoming. Families welcome. Watch for info in all our western towns.

WE HAD SNOW AND NOW WE’VE GOT WATER!

Archery, one of the skills introduced to kids at dude ranches.

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Go fish—Mountain country holds some of the best trout streams and lakes in the lower 48 states. The area abounds with angling shops and guide services. Hire a guide or just get out and explore. Whitewater rafting—The Snake, Shoshone, Yellowstone, and Clark’s Fork rivers sport miles of whitewater action. Lots of commercial services are available, or rent a raft and go get wet. Scenic raft trips—Not into getting wet? Then how about a sublime sunrise voyage on the Snake River in front of the Grand Tetons? Watch a bald eagle soar or dive for breakfast. Canoeing & sea kayaking—Want to be a little more intimate with the water? The possibilities are almost endless. Rent boats in the town of Jackson to explore our many lakes and streams. For a visual feast and relaxing glide beneath the Tetons, launch that craft at GTNP’s Oxbow Bend channels of the Snake River, just below Jackson Lake Dam. Locals love this sec-


ALL TRAILS

Bob Woodall

END HERE

Jackson Lake sees a fair number of waterskiers during the warmer summer months.

tion’s calm beauty and window into wildlife. Bring the camera! Whitewater kayaking—To get really personal with the river, nothing beats being in a kayak, splashing through rapids or surfing a wave for as long as you can hold on. Stand Up Paddle Boards (SUP)—Feel like Hawaiian royalty standing on a long surfboard propelling yourself along the river currents.

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The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the country’s first and largest national park and national

Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch

Wade McKoy

forest, and the farthest point from a road outside Alaska.

String Lake in Grand Teton National Park offers swimmers and boaters plenty to do.

adult-led day-adventure programs for kids available, too. Ask about public swimming pools in all mountain country towns. Swim al fresco—You’ll find a number of unique options for outdoor swimming around mountain country. In YNP, check out the Firehole River near Madison Junction or the Boiling River near Gardiner, where hot springs flow into the river (swimming in hot springs themselves is prohibited and dangerous). In GTNP, String Lake is an outstanding swimming hole, safe for the whole family. If you want it hot and in a commercial swimming pool, visit Granite Hot Springs, south of Jackson. Sailing and windsurfing—Slide Lake below the historic Gros Ventre landslide above the town of Kelly pulls in the windsurfers as soon as the ice is off. Jackson Lake in GTNP, Yellowstone Lake, and Fremont Lake outside Pinedale all have sailboats in the docks and on the water. Local windsurfers show up when the

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waves reach whitecap status. Best dam views—Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam near Cody is the most impressive one this side of the Hoover Dam. Stroll across the dam and peer 325 feet into the canyon bottom. In GTNP, drive over Jackson Lake Dam, gaze across the lake at the Tetons and marvel at the thundering waters churning out of the spillways. Maybe toss a dry fly or a streamer into those fat-boy holding waters. But get a license! Rangers and game and fish folks take their jobs seriously. Hop on the Bus—The Jackson Hole START Bus system makes getting around easy. In Jackson ride all over town for free. Buses are on a half-hour schedule. Hourly departures to Teton Village. Three bucks for adults, half price for seniors and students through 12th grade. Buses also run south to Star Valley and west to Teton Valley. Visit start-

GET A LIFT

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bus.com for a complete fee/time schedule and maps. Yellow buses in Yellowstone—Their lineage is from the 1930s but their appeal remains as strong today as it was back then. Grab the camera and all the fun and leave the driving to a pro. Highlights of the park’s most notable features and then some. A busload of tour options is available, too. Aerial Tram—Climb 4,139 feet above the valley floor aboard the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram. At the summit of Rendezvous Mountain, a lofty 10,450 feet, tram passengers step out into the Alpine zone, right at the tree-line’s edge. Take in a 360-degree panorama of the Jackson Hole valley and nearby and distant mountain features. Ride the tram, hike the trails or “fly” back to the valley floor. Tandem paragliding—From the top of the tram, sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified


A pack string crosses the high alpine tundra of the Absaroka Mountains.

pilots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the exhilarating experience of tandem paragliding. Chairlifts—Not only do these lifts get you up above it all for an impressive view of the scenery, but they also provide quick backcountry access for hikers and mountain bikers. Both Snow King and Grand Targhee mountain resorts offer rides. Dine on a mountainside—Ride the Bridger Gondola at Teton Village up to the Couloir Restaurant for a peak dining experience 2,730 feet above the valley. Or head up for afternoon cocktails on the Piste Mountain Bistro and marvel at a high-altitude Jackson Hole sunset. The ride is free. Balloon rides—Greet the morning by lofting into crisp mountain air under a colorful hotair balloon. Bungee-trampolining—Give your youngster the thrill of a trampoline with the lift and

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spring of bungee cords. Alpine slide—Take the chairlift up, then board a sled for a journey down a mountain slide that curves and dips through the glade at Snow King. Mountain Coaster— Forget the aerial acrobatics! The Snow King roller coaster is all about breathtaking moves right on some of terra firma’s most spectacular landscape. Getting up couldn’t be easier! Except for getting down. Glider rides—Mountains create updrafts, and that means good gliding. Check the Driggs, Idaho, airport for information on glider rides. Hiking—An almost endless array of trails radiate into the mountains. The only limits are your legs and longing. The views? You supply the adjectives. Camping—The great outdoors was made

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

for camping. Get away from the car or motor home and rough it! Cook out on an open fire and sleep under the stars. Nothing like it under the sun, of course. Climb the Grand—Often listed in the 100 things to do in your life, and for a good reason. Despite a peak 7,000 feet above the valley, topping the Grand is an attainable goal for anyone in good physical condition and among the right companions. Some of the world’s best guides and instructors live here. Mountain biking—Our trail systems are among the finest in the country. Pathways—Walk, ride a bike, rollerblade. Jackson Hole’s extensive pathway system rewards all users with a peaceful state of mind. The valley parkway’s new R Park awaits at the stunning crossroads of the Snake River and the thoroughfare between town, Wilson, and Teton Village. Shooting—Certified pistol- and rifle-use in-

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Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, calf roping, steer wrestling, barrel racing, and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble for the kids. The youngsters are also treated to trick-roping demonstrations, meeting bullfighters, and getting

Bob Woodall

their face painted by rodeo clowns.

The kids Calf Scramble pits dozens of eager young cowpokes against one red-tailed calf.

struction, skeet and trap shooting with shotguns, all at the Jackson Hole Gun Club site south of Jackson. A wide selection of guns, covered shooting area, two separate pistol bays, and a classroom. Mountain man rendezvous—The 80th Annual Green River Rendezvous, July 7-10, 2016, in Pinedale, Wyoming, is a pageant that educates visitors about the history of fur-trade era events. Rendezvous also take place throughout the summer in Jackson, Alpine, and West Yellowstone and are open to the public. Great places to find unique items. Or outfit yourself and join in the fun! Indian Pow-wows—This is Indian country, too, and perfect for a traditional Pow-wow. The most prominent one is the Annual Plains Indian Museum Pow-wow, June 18, 19 this year, in Cody, Wyoming. Indian dancers try to catch the judges’ eyes with personal style, footwork falling on the beat of the music, and beautifully

GET WESTERN

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crafted dance attire. Chuckwagon dinners and shows—Ranging from dinner under the Tetons at Dornan’s to polished performances showcasing cowboy musicians and theater in many of our mountain towns. Grab the young ones and board covered Conestoga wagons heading up a scenic canyon for an old-fashioned wrangler’s dinner and Western music show. Horseback trail rides and pack trips— You are in the West after all, so what better way to experience it than astride a horse. Head to the hills for an hour, a day, or even a week. Stagecoach rides—In Jackson Hole, a short stagecoach ride around downtown Jackson will light up the faces of young and old. From Roosevelt Lodge in YNP, stagecoaches, replicas of those used in early park days, course through four miles of sagebrush and flower-embroidered flats. Cody Trolley Tours—A 60-minute, 22-mile tour in a comfortable red and green trolley.

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Narrators recount the story William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody while highlighting historical sites, scenic vistas, geology, wildlife, and Old- and New-West attractions. Dude ranches—The quintessential Western vacation. From rustic to polished, these weeklong emersions into the lore of the Old West are the perfect family getaway. Rodeo—The Old West rides into arenas nightly in Cody and several times a week in Jackson and West Yellowstone. Rodeos, like fireworks and parades, are also integral to July 4th celebrations throughout the West. Shootout—The legendary Old West shootout is re-enacted nightly on the streets of Jackson and Cody. For real-action shooting, though, check out Cody’s Wild West Shootout competition in June. No blanks at this event. Visit a ghost town—Tour the abandoned gold-mining town of Kirwin in the mountains southwest of Meeteetse. Four-wheel drive recommended.


Wade McKoy

Lynyrd Skynyrd headlined the 2014 Jackson Hole Live! concert celebrating Jackson’s centennial year.

Cody’s Old Trail Town—One-of-a-kind buildings from the past, including the famous hideout used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Colorful characters might still haunt nearby gravesites, too. Mule Days—Don’t be stubborn! Check out Jake Clark’s Mule Days in Ralston, near Cody, June 15-19, 2016. The venerable saddle mule is front and center in its own parade, rodeo, and auction, all highlighting a true Western character. Farmers Markets—No reason to strike out

SPECIAL EVENTS

Raised locally by the Hansen/Mead family for over 100 years. All natural Jackson Hole beef raised on conservation land and finished with spent grains. Our beef are steroid and antibiotic free and are always humanely treated by gentle cowboys. Mead Beef is dry-aged for 21 days for the most succulent steaks and bodacious burgers.

Available at the Jackson Hole Farmers Market and at these fine Jackson Restaurants:

The Granery • Amangani Grill • Teton Pines Snake River Grill • Mangy Moose • The Calico Snake River Brew Pub

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for the mega market’s comestibles. Locavores can get their fresh-food fix right on the beaten path. Watch for popular farmers’ markets throughout the region. Fourth of July—Music, rodeos, community, parades, foot races, and of course fireworks. What more can we say! Local papers post complete lists of events. County fairs—These are true community events out here in the West. Horses, cows, pigs, sheep, and the best-grown produce of locals, as well as fiddle contests, magic shows, carnival rides and stands complete with corn dogs and cotton candy.

Teton Park Inner Loop—This idyllic roadway takes you as close to the mountains as you can get in a vehicle. For the best glimpses of wildlife, try early morning and sunset. Camera hounds will enjoy capturing the alpenglow at sunrise or the shadows lengthening at sunset. Beartooth Pass—Truly one of the most spectacular, not-to-be-missed drives in the U.S. Between Red Lodge, Montana, and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, the highway switchbacks up the slope to above timberline and a 10,940-foot summit. Along the way, cold mountain streams, crashing waterfalls, and

SCENIC DRIVES

Ask us about having your event at Mead Ranch in Beautiful Spring Gulch • Corporate Events • Weddings • Social Events

Jackson Hole Natural Beef, LLC Jackson, Wyoming • 307.733.0166 www.meadranchbeef.com

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For two minutes on August 21, 2017, a rare total eclipse of the sun will shadow the mountains and valleys of Jackson Hole, one of the few tourist destinations and

Bob Woodall

national parks where visitors can experience the total eclipse.

A pathway for non-motorized travel gives people a safe place to walk, skate, and bike in Grand Teton National Park.

deep-blue alpine lakes dot the landscape, while jagged granite peaks stab the sky. The excursion passes from sub-alpine to alpine environments. Allow plenty of time, though; a parade of continuous vistas beckon—and a snowball fight in July is traditional! Chief Joseph Scenic Highway—Between Cody and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, another zigzagging traverse heads over Dead Indian Hill and into Sunlight Basin. Its isolation and incredible vistas make this wide but infrequently used highway a pleasure to travel along. From the summit you can look deep into both the mountains and the Clarks Fork River Canyon. Elkhart Park—From Pinedale, the Fremont Lake Road heads north out of town, crosses a glacial moraine, and then climbs past 10-milelong Fremont Lake and on to Elkhart Park. From this popular trailhead, views are afforded well into the Wind River Mountains and down 2,000 feet to Fremont Lake itself. Trail Lake Road—Just east of Dubois, Trail Lake Road heads south into the Wind River Mountains and past three jewel-like lakes. Look for petroglyphs on the boulders along the way. At the end of the road, hike 3 miles to stunning Lake Louise.

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Wapiti Valley—Between the East Entrance of YNP and Cody, this spectacular valley is a treat for the eyes. The many strange, eroded rock formations look like, well, whatever your imagination can come up with. Kids excel at this kind of travel creativity. Keep an eye out for the Cookie Monster somewhere up there.

LOOK UP AT THE STARS

Now that night has fallen, don’t just hit the sack. Head outside and cast those eyes skyward. If you’re a city dweller, you really shouldn’t miss this experience. The Milky Way sweeps across the clear western heavens in a blaze of glittering light and confirms the existence of real stars and astronomical delights. Eclipse 2017—There are few natural spectacles that compare to the rare total eclipse of the sun, and few scenic areas that compare to Grand Teton National Park. On August 21, 2017, folks lucky enough to be in Jackson Hole can experience both when a total solar eclipse of the sun crosses the U.S. While most all of the United States will experience some degree of the eclipse, totality will cover a 60-70 mile-wide swath from the Pacific coast of Oregon to the Atlantic Ocean. And luckily for Jackson Hole and Teton Valley,

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the centerline of totality will go right through Grand Teton National Park. The 2017 total solar eclipse of the sun will begin at about 10:17 a.m., the first hour and 18 minutes yielding just a partial eclipse. Then, at approximately 11:35 a.m., the moon will pass directly in front of the sun. For the following two minutes totality will shadow the mountains and valleys, making Jackson Hole one of the few tourist destinations and national parks where visitors can experience the total eclipse. Pullouts along Highway 26/191/89 will fill up fast, but additional viewing options are myriad. The eclipse’s center line will extend from Rexburg to Teton Valley, Idaho, then across the Tetons and Jackson Hole, moving up the Gros Ventre River Valley across the mountains and just south of Dubois, Wyoming, and onward to the Atlantic Ocean. Although the eclipse is a year away, many area hotels have been booked-up since last year and the rest are filling fast. Visitors hoping to view the eclipse in Jackson Hole should make plans now. For more information and maps visit wyomingstargazing.org/2017-solar-eclipse/ — Adventure Guide


Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center

Visit the

National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center In beautiful Dubois, Wyoming

Bob Woodall

Wildlife Exhibits • Gift Shop Guided Tours

Prized mounts at the National Bighorn Sheep Center.

Few mammals can match the surefootedness of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, they tread crags and rocky trails like no other creatures on earth. But the survival of these magnificent animals is threatened all over the West because of disease and habitat loss. Fortunately, their beauty and tenuous existence are elegantly showcased in the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown Dubois, Wyoming. Wyoming’s winner of the 2014 Destination/Attraction of the Year, the center’s appeal is well founded. Stunning, full-size bighorns – set amidst their natural flora and geology – lend a breathtaking realism to the center’s displays. Photos and hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic landscape of these magnificent animals. Other dioramas showcase grizzly bears, marmots, wolves, mountain lions, and a host of smaller intriguing wildlife. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information. Celebrating its 23rd year, the center now provides young naturalists a way to lead the grownups around. A printable self-guided tour can be accessed from the center’s website to direct visitors along a colorful seven-mile stretch of bighorn habitat just outside of town. Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for good reason: nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to the largest wintering herd (around 900) of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America. During fall and winter, the staff offers fully guided tours into the snowy landscape. The center’s website also links to recent informative articles in local and national publications about bighorn sheep biology and habitat. Located right on the main street of Dubois (Wyoming Highway 287/26), the National

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Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the summer. Admission fees are $4 for adults, $2 for children, and is free for kids under 8. For more information, call toll free (888) 209-2795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail the center at info@bighorn.org. — Mike Calabrese

Home to one of the largest herds of Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep in North America & a short 55-mile drive from Teton National Park ! Summer Hours: 9am-6pm 10 Bighorn Lane • Dubois, WY 307-455-3429 www/bighorn.org photo courtesy of Jeff Vanuga

Fast, Affordable and On Your Way. McDonald’s® of Jackson Hole

Open & Serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily

Free Wi-Fi 1110 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY • 1 mile west of Town Square

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It’s A Great Day Bob Woodall

when you don’t get a Darwin Award.

WHAT’S IN YOUR PACK?

Being prepared makes the hike more enjoyable, even on the most traveled trail in the park.

S

By David Swift urely you’ve heard of the Darwin

Awards. Real stories of real people who do themselves in, too often in an especially humiliating fashion. Darwin Award winners not only go into history; sometimes their names are writ large as eponyms. Murphy has his law, Achilles his heel, Mary her typhoid.

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So let’s talk about you. Welcome to our lovely, deep, high, and peril-rich mountains. Perhaps you gaze at their majesty, raring to become intimate with that which remains well hidden from roadside turnouts. Or perhaps you don’t feel much at all—just an urge to wander in the woods, to see what the big deal is. No matter how tuned-in or oblivious you feel, you may also have an urge to feel free, to shun encumbrances. Remember this: they shoot those SUV commercials with an enormous crew (craft services in the wild is a wonderful thing) cropped out of the money shot. In order of probability, your bad day will be due to weather, crummy planning, getting lost, overconfidence, bad luck, or wildlife.

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Land two or three of those happenstances and you’re a goner. Weather by far leads to most epics simply because being wet quickly complicates matters. Wetness leads to slower progress, rapid loss of body heat, disorientation, falls, early darkness and perhaps a 50,000-degree F shot of instant heat. Cruelly, high exposed places that offer the best cell phone reception also offer the best lightning reception. Hiking in the steep-walled Tetons, where you won’t see clouds until they’re literally on top of you, is a classic trap. Leave your car under all-blue skies, scramble to a lofty perch by lunchtime, unwrap your PB&J, gaze around and a dark heavy canopy of wetness appears as if by magic. Happens all the time.


The iconic park bear tops many a Yellowstone visitor’s must-see list. Lovable cartoon characters Yogi and Boo Boo got into trouble lifting “pick-anick baskets” from tourists, but things are quite different when bears and humans mix for real. In Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks bears can show up most anywhere, but it’s crucial to view them from a distance. The parks enforce strict guidelines and rules for viewing wildlife, especially grizzlies. When it comes to bear safety, park rangers don’t cut violators much slack. Read the information in the parks’ newspaper that is given out at all entrance stations and visitor centers. “Bear jams” along the highway can be spectacles in themselves, and viewing from a vehicle can ensure a safe encounter—for bears and for park visitors. However, when heading out for a hike in bear country, things are not so easily controlled. Safe travel begins before visitors hit the trail. Again, park newsletters can help. It should be noted that there is on average only a single bear attack in the park each year. In 2011 and 2015, in separate incidents, bears inside the park killed three visitors. Bear attacks are rare, and visitors’ safety cannot be guaranteed. But there are a number of things that help reduce the risks. First, check with the nearest backcountry office or visitor center for current bear activity or incidents. Second, always carry bear spray. Bear spray canisters run $30 to $55 and are available at many retail outlets in the greater Yellowstone region. They are also now available for rent on a daily or longer basis at the Bear Aware kiosk at Canyon Village. Bears are one of Yellowstone and Teton parks’ great treasures; their survival, though, requires that humans act responsibly. After all, it is their home we’re visiting. For more information visit www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/bearsafety.

Photo courtesy Eco Tour Adventures, Taylor Phillips

Bear Safety

A grizzly’s claws are a formidable sight.

Acknowledging the ever-shifting nature of “necessity,” the following is high up on the list of things to haul:

marked, well worn. The moment a trail looks specious, calmly do a 180 and return to the spot where you stopped paying attention.

Water. Sip water constantly. You’re probably at a higher altitude than accustomed so your heart and lungs are working to adjust. Constant hydration keeps you cooler in heat and warmer in cold. If you’re not peeing a bit more than usual, you’re not drinking enough water. If you’re wondering whether they are utilitarian or merely fashionable, Camelbacks and similar water packs have become a standard feature amongst serious roamers. For a daytrip or longer, tote a water filter.

Unguents. Bug juice. Pepper spray for bears. (Please don’t go looking to actually use it.) Sun block. Lipschmeer.

Food. Splurge, taking more than you need. Make it real food. Current trend: protein and fat with a side of electrolytes, fresh fruit for desert. Water is seldom in the form of one of the zillions of sugarwaters out there.

Mobile phone. Don’t fall for those purity-ofbackcountry sentiments. Carry it but turn it off. If you really need it you want battery life. It’s harder than ever in the West to find a place with no signal. To get a signal, find a place on the mountain that gives most line of sight to civilization. Just don’t call because someone’s tired. Expect to be invoiced for a rescue.

Layers. Base layer, pile jacket, and a shell means you’ll withstand a long picnic on a breezy, exposed ridge. If the shell is waterproof, all the better. Add a foam butt pad, hat, gloves, and bottom layers and suddenly you’re prepared for quite the ordeal. Lighter. Fire good—but for desperate situations only. If you’re reading this in the far future: did our drought turn out to be biblical? Headlamp. At least a flashlight. The latest

LED lamps are cheap, efficient, and nearly weightless.

Knife. Extra points for it having a corkscrew. Map. Plus compass. Trails around here are well

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Ponder taking . . . Sunglasses. Blister protection; if you feel a bit of rubbing within the first mile of your hike, a blister is imminent. One hundred feet of 1/4-inch parachute cord—I carry it all the time, use it once every three years. Heavy-duty plastic trash bags weigh nada, take no space, and separate dry things from moisture.

Changeable terrain. Somewhere up the trail you may enter a parallel dimension where an ice axe is essential. Welcome to mountaineering. Mountaineering requires training in the use of this elegant and sharp stick which is often accessorized with shoe spikes, aka crampons. If you come across steep snow with no way to stick to it, turn around lest you court an injury of all-too-common an origin. Mammals gone wild. Deer and elk usually have the common sense to bolt well before you see them. Moose and bison don’t have such a huge

personal space. They’ll pretend to ignore you, sucking you in for a tighter shot. Hence the term “sucker.” Once they decide you are a threat, you are too close for any retreat. Bison go from zero-to-your-spleen in scarcely more than a nanosecond. With their hooves and antlers, moose are preprogrammed to turn you into a free-form sculpture. Bear confrontations forever spark disagreement on the best coping strategy; I won’t pretend to have the last word on that. Best to avoid that predicament in the first place. Make noise as you amble. Bears are not shy about breaking and entering for food, either tents or cars. There’s no shortage of preventive techniques available courtesy of park rangers. If you can manage to be attacked by a wolf, be prepared to become the star of a nationwide media feeding frenzy. Now you know enough to be not as dangerous. Plan your route, tell people where you are going, and err on the side of leisure rather than heroics. (You can always embellish later.) This is for three reasons: for the benefit of your loved ones near and far whose lives you don’t wish to disrupt; for the benefit of society at large because we all have better things to do than to go looking for you; and for the good name of your progeny, who don’t want to Google a family member and have the Darwin Awards website come up as the first hit. David Swift, a self-deployed image-oriented propagandist, exists in Jackson, Wyoming, a small resort town noted for its recent outbreak of $2 coffee, no refills.

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ALPINE MEDICAL ADVICE An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure

Mountain biking, especially the downhill variety, should be practiced with careful skill and focus. Rider: Kyle Dowman

By Jeffrey Greenbaum, MD;

A

nybody can have an accident. People

hurt themselves all the time just walking around the Town Square. Lacerations, twisted ankles, burns from the campfire, and other minor traumas are still the main reasons we see summertime adventurers in the emergency room. It’s the other range of preventable issues that we’d hope to see less of.

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Here’s some practical advice that will help keep your interactions with our hospital staff on a social level and far away from the Emergency Room.

TREKKING IN THE TETONS

Some of the most dramatic accidents occur in the high mountains of GTNP when an individual takes a big fall. Usually this occurs on the descent from an otherwise enjoyable day of hiking and climbing. To avoid this scenario make sure to save enough energy for the way down—don’t become passive or inattentive while descending. Also, if you are going to encounter snow or ice on your trek, bring an ice axe. This is a lightweight piece of equipment that you will appreciate when it’s needed.

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ALTITUDE SICKNESS

Acute mountain sickness (AMS). Symptoms, which may be mild or severe, include headache, fatigue, lightheadedness, lack of appetite, frequent waking from sleep, and nausea. The most common prevention for AMS is to ascend slowly over a period of several days, which allows the body to adjust. For vacationers to Jackson Hole, though, hydration is the numberone protection against altitude sickness. Avoid over-exertion the day before you travel and during the first few days at altitude. Arrive on your vacation rested, not exhausted. Avoid alcoholic beverages and sleeping pills. They inhibit proper acclimatization. If you drink coffee or other beverages with caffeine, don’t stop. It’s safe at high altitudes and stopping suddenly

Wade McKoy

St. John’s Medical Center Medical Director, Emergency Department


TIPS TO HELP KEEP YOU SAFE

can actually cause AMS-like symptoms. If you develop signs of AMS, you should return to valley elevations. Do not go higher until your symptoms have resolved, which usually occurs within 24 hours. Rest and avoid drinking alcohol and taking sedatives or sleeping pills as you recover. Aspirin and other anti-inflammatories, like ibuprofen, can help prevent a headache that often occurs with AMS.

MOUNTAIN BIKING

Mountain biking falls are inevitable, even for those with a wealth of experience. As in much of life, it’s not whether you fall but how you land that will determine your fate. Collar bone injuries are common with this activity, but they can be avoided with proper technique and practice. Start off slowly and avoid taking chances until you learn how to balance your bike in all conditions. Ride within your ability and don’t let friends or family push you too hard. Body armor and padding is recommended.

GENERAL SUMMER ADVICE

Most accidents in Jackson Hole will be complicated by our local climate and geography. Summertime temperatures in the mountains can change from warm to cold quickly, and your location in the mountains might preclude communication via cell phone and therefore delay rescue. Always bring warm clothing and extra food and water. When in doubt hire a guide or outfitter.

Bob Woodall

THE UPPER SNAKE RIVER

The Upper Snake River runs the length of Jackson Hole and then flows into the Snake River Canyon, where Class III+ whitewater draws many recreationists. The river is fed by snowmelt from the mountains, so the water temperature can be frigid. If you are going rafting or kayaking, you can avoid hypothermia by dressing in specialty clothing such as a wet suit or a dry top. Also, it’s important to know that cold water alone can cause certain individuals to go into a cardiac arrest. If you have a history of heart disease, you should consider this before venturing out.

Dr. AJ Wheeler • Dr. Daniel A. Nelson • Dr. Jeffrey Greenbaum

"Always carry a first aid kit appropriate for your activity. Nobody ever plans to get hurt but you can be prepared." — Dr. AJ Wheeler, Emergency Physician

“When recreating on local trails, consider limiting headphone volume so as to increase awareness of other people, pets, and wildlife sharing the trails.” — Dr. Daniel A. Nelson, Emergency Physician

"If you're going for a hike in the Tetons, trekking poles can relieve the impact on the knees and hips, especially when going downhill." — Dr. Jeffrey Greenbaum, Emergency Physician

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Put Your Best Foot Forward

Four must-dos for happy feet on the trail

by Heidi Jost, M.D. Orthopaedic Foot & Ankle Specialist

Hiking the trails and in the mountains around Jackson Hole can be fun and exciting. But preparation can make all the difference in the world for a safe and comfortable experience. A

Wade McKoy

few tips should help you get started.

Pro skier Jess McMillan bushwhacks up rugged Teton terrain.

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Before you hit the trail: First, find comfortable, supportive footwear. Designs run the spectrum from heavy backpacking/mountaineering boots to lightweight trail-runners. Your needs may vary, based on terrain, the weight of your pack, and your ankle strength and stability. Treads are designed to provide traction on rocks and dirt trails, with firm soles that also provide a stable platform for torsional rigidity. Harder, more durable rubber soles will protect your feet from sharp rocks or other pressure points that may cause painful bruising. An ankle collar will provide optimal ankle support while protecting you from the environment. Gaiters can help prevent pebbles and other debris from finding their way into your boots. Some models feature Gore-tex or its equivalent, which provides waterproofness, but at the expense of ventilation. Fit, though, is most important of all: your feet should not slip around in your shoes. Try them on with the socks you intend to hike in. Assess for pressure points and for toes hitting the front of the boot when pointed downhill. (Remember to keep your toenails trimmed!) Bring the shoes home and, while wearing the socks you plan to hike in, wear the shoes around the house to break them in. Sometimes issues can be resolved by swapping out the insole that came

Bob Wodall

Let's focus on the foundation of our bodies, our feet. Made up of 52 bones, 1/4 of all the bones in our body, our feet support up to 4-6 times our body weight with each step. We need to protect these assets.

Gaiters can help prevent pebbles and other debris from finding their way into your boots.

with the shoe/boot for a specialty or custom orthotic. Then take them for a spin on a local trail. When choosing socks, consider weight, material, cushion, and support. 100% cotton is not recommended; it absorbs sweat, dries slowly, provides no insulation when wet, and it can lead to blisters out on the trail. You may even add a base-layer liner to wick away more moisture and decrease friction on your skin. On the trail: Be aware of your feet. If you feel something not quite right, address it immediately. Remove pebbles, straighten out bunched socks, file down an irritating boot liner. Avoid

too much moisture. Our feet have around 250,000 sweat glands. They are moisture-producing machines capable of generating half a pint of sweat every day. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s without even adding environmental factors like rain, snow and/or an occasional stream crossing. Consider rotating pairs of socks to stay dry. There are even moisture-absorbing foot powders you can apply pre-hike. After a long day: Recovery is important for tissue repair. Cool down with low-intensity exercise, stretch, perform active recovery with easy gentle movements, hydrate, and refuel.

(307) 733-3900 OR (800) 659-1335 PHYSICIAN ON CALL 24/7 TetonOrtho.com

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Hand & Upper Extremity Foot & Ankle Surgery Custom Orthotics

Joshua Beck, MD

Christopher Hills, DO

Adult & Pediatric Spine Surgery Spine Surgery Joint Replacement Minimally Invasive Surgery Fracture Management Trauma & Fracture Care

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Geoffrey Skene, DO

Non-Surgical Spine Care Neck & Back Physical Medicine & Rehabilitation

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David Khoury, MD

Sports Medicine-Arthroscopy Knee & Shoulder Surgery Trauma & Fracture Care

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Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

T

he ski area famous for Corbet’s Couloir and the Hobacks

holds equal excitement for summer visitors. Teton Village bustles year-round with hotels, restaurants, activities galore, and easy access to Grand Teton National Park. It’s a great base camp during a summer visit to Jackson Hole.

Teton Village

Photo courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

Wade McKoy

The Village Commons, a stone amphitheater in the heart of Teton Village, offers shade and seating for hot summer days, a kids’ playground, and a cooling pop-jet fountain. This gathering spot is also home to Concerts on the Commons, a live music series featuring nationally renowned artists every Sunday at 5 p.m. during July and August. Sidewalks head off in every direction from the Village Commons, leading to a variety of dining, shopping, lodging, and spa options. The pathways often point to the perfect place to end a day of adventure in the mountains.

Live music on the Village Commons.

Aerial Tram

This is the ticket to the top of the Tetons! Ride the famous 100-passenger Jackson Hole Aerial Tram from Teton Village to Rendezvous Mountain’s 10,450-foot summit and straddle the Teton Range. The tram whisks passengers a breathtaking 4,139 vertical feet for unbeatable 360degree views of the Tetons and nearby Grand Teton National Park. During the stunning journey, passengers glide over diverse alpine terrain and sometimes glimpse bears, moose, eagles, mule deer, and other valley wildlife. A new Family Package for the Aerial Tram allows everyone to experience the million-dollar views at affordable prices.

Grand Adventure Pass

The Grand Adventure Pass allows visitors and families all-day, unlimited access to the Aerial Tram ride, the new Drop Tower and Aerial Ropes course, the Bike Park, complete with a lunch voucher. Children receive all that plus two activity tickets good for the bungee trampoline and the climbing wall. The pass offers an economical way for visitors to explore the passel of activities and dining options in Teton Village.

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The Tower

The Tower boasts a 60' drop that is sure to add some thrill to anyone’s day. Visitors can take three jumps from varying heights ranging from 30 to 60 feet off the ground. The Tower is located just uphill from the Aerial Ropes Course.

Aerial Ropes Course

This is the opportunity to experience a thrilling elevated adventure in the forest. Great for kids and adults alike, the Aerial Ropes Course is a network of zip lines, balance beams, cargo nets and other challenges – all suspended 25 feet above the ground. The course offers a range of features with varying levels of difficulty to allow recreationists to stretch their limits, while harnessed safely on belay.

Bungee Trampoline

You might be surprised by how high you can jump (24 feet, safely) or the tricks you achieve with this fun-packed summer activity. Kids and adults alike enthusiastically flock to the trampolines for all-around family fun.

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Running among the wildflowers at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

Climbing Wall

Go “on belay” with the climbing-wall attendant and scale the artificial rock positioned near the base of the Clock Tower. Activity tickets for the bungee trampoline and climbing wall are available at the Bridger Activities Center and Jackson Hole Sports.

Hiking

The tram opens up a hiking experience unlike any other in the Jackson Hole area. Ascending 4,139 feet in just 9 minutes, the tram settles travelers at 10,450 feet amidst the high peaks of the Southern Tetons. From there hikers are free to explore a vast trail network connecting Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Bridger-Teton National Forest, and Grand Teton National Park – all without the 4,139-foot trek to the top. The new Wildflower Trail links Teton Village to the top of the Bridger Gondola. Several scenic-point benches allow the weary or wonderstruck to take in the wildflower-strewn views of the valley while comfortably seated. Two hours should do for this round trip. From the top of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, hikers can wind

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through the spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverse The Cirque, and descend the Headwall to end up at The Couloir Restaurant or The Deck for a signature cocktail and a bite to eat. Because Jackson Hole Mountain Resort shares a boundary with Grand Teton National Park (GTNP), its visitors are ideally placed to experience an incredible natural environment. A detailed trail-guide book and topographical map are musts for those planning to head into GTNP. All backcountry camping requires a permit and park-approved bear canister, which can be obtained at park ranger stations or visitor centers.

Mountain Biking

In its constant pursuit to expand recreational opportunities, the resort went to work with Gravity Logic to build the best mountain-bike destination in the Tetons. Options abound for every skill level, ranging from novice trails for the uninitiated to advanced trails and jump tracks for daredevils. Sail over tabletops, course around corners and then catch the Teewinot lift for a five-minute ride back to the top. Join in the fun of Friday Night Bikes from 5 to 7 p.m., June 19 to Sept. 18 (4 to 6 p.m.

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Wade McKoy photos

Aerial Ropes course. Climber: Christopher Dennis

The Wall. Climber: Jeremy Emmer

The bike park. Rider: Jeff Brines

9/11, 9/18), complete with discounted lift tickets, two-for-one bike rentals, and happy-hour specials at the Tin Can Cantina. Register for the Chainless Bike Series (July 17, 31; August 14, 28), a unique twist on downhill riding – the shop will remove and reattach your chain for free. For mountain bike touring – no ticket required – ride seven miles of single-track and traverse the entire lower mountain, from Après Vous to the Hobacks. This route, rolling and winding along incredible ski terrain, was designed and built by year-round resort workers who really know this mountain. Expert cyclists might decide to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Bring your own bike or rent one from Jackson Hole Sports or Teton Village Sports, where you can also purchase lift tickets or inquire about bike lessons and bike-specific camps for children. The Techtonics Camp will expand your child’s horizons with video and photography instruction and fun activities. For path-

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way cruisers, check out the bike rentals at TVS, Pepi Stiegler Sports, or Jackson Treehouse.

Tandem Paragliding Flights

A 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding is one of the more memorable ways to descend from the mountain’s summit. Certified pilots who’ve logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are well equipped to introduce first-timers to the unique experience of tandem paragliding. For more information or to make a reservation, call (307) 739-2626.

Alive @ Five

The entire family will enjoy these free weekly programs on the Village Commons, from 5 to 5:45 p.m., Tuesday through Friday, June 28, 2016 through August 19. On Tuesdays, a biologist from the Teton Science School conducts an engaging and interactive educational presentation on the wildlife and

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ecology of Jackson Hole. On Wednesdays, view the Teton Raptor Center’s live hawks, falcons, eagles, and owls while learning about the unique adaptations that make raptors the unmatched hunters of the sky. View birds of prey both at arm’s length and flying free overhead. On Thursdays, catch a rotating music schedule featuring local musicians of varying styles and genres. On Fridays, join Wild Things of Wyoming for an interactive and engaging experience about the animals who make Wyoming their home.

Disc Golf

Play ten holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at Jackson Hole Sports.

Mountain Sports School

A variety of programs offered by the Mountain Sports School provide lots of options for families with kids. The Kids’ Ranch Day Camp, the Kids’ Adventure Guides, and the Tectonics Bike Camp are some of the programs available this summer.

The Yurt

The modern Rock Springs Yurt houses a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining table. Hike up a wooded, 2.5mile trail from Teton Village into the mountains and enjoy the scenery on an overnight with friends. Expert guides prepare the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes! The Rendezvous Lodge at Bridger Gondola summit — At the 9,095-foot summit of the Bridger Gondola, the Rendezvous Lodge welcomes its patrons with five unique restaurants. Couloir Restaurant — This award-winning fine dining restaurant promises an unforgettable evening in the Tetons. Executive Chef Wes

On-Mountain Dining

Hamilton creates a flavorsome seasonal menu to compliment this unparalleled dining experience. The menu includes hormone-free and natural meats, sustainable fish, and seasonal fruits and vegetables from local farms and ranches. Dinner served nightly Sunday - Friday. Gondola ride free of charge. Reservations highly recommended. Piste Mountain Bistro — Piste is a commonly used French word meaning “a marked path down a mountain for snow skiing and snowboarding.” For many, a journey along this type of mountain trail is a reward in its own right, but in the Rendezvous Lodge at the top of the Bridger Gondola, it takes on a new meaning. Open daily for lunch, 11:30 - 2:30; Dinner Thursday-Saturday, reservations start at 5:30. Off Piste — Off-Piste Market is the newest addition to the Rendezvous Lodge. Pick up a snack to pack in your backpack, or sit down and take in mountain views over a hot slice of Sicilian pizza. Full espresso bar, gourmet food, beer, wine, and small essentials like sunscreen, batteries, and even phone-charging stations. Open 10:30-3:30. Rendezvous — The open setting of the Rendezvous offers multiple stations featuring house-made soups, a variety of noodle bowls, a fresh grill line, full salad bar, and Idaho Salt-Baked Potatoes with a huge choice of toppings. Floor to ceiling windows provide impressive views of the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and the famous "Corbet's Couloir" ski run. Corbet’s Cabin — Ride the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram to the summit and enter Corbet’s Cabin at “The Top of the World” for a lasting vacation memory of sweet or savory waffles made on the spot. The Cabin also serves up snow cones, hot drinks, refreshing cold beverages, beer, grabn-go-items, and tram souvenirs. Relax and enjoy your snacks on the outdoor deck while soaking up expansive valley views. — Adventure Guide

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Snow King Mountain Resort

S

Photo courtesy Snow King Mountain Resort

now King Ski Area, one of the oldest in North

America, opened in 1939. But Jackson’s “Town Hill” isn’t acting its age as it continues moving forward with the largest capital improvement projects in the mountain’s venerable history. Last winter the Snow King Mountain Resort stepped up its game, tackling a new, state-of-the-art snowmaking system and, for night skiing, the most advanced slopeslide lighting in the world. “New” is the operative word for summer attractions, too. Snow King now boasts a new longer, chairlift, a new Treetop Adventure park, a new mountain coaster, a new base lodge featuring a restaurant and bar, and new facilities housing its mountain sports school.

Cowboy Coaster

Snow King’s most exciting new attraction, a state-ofthe-art alpine coaster, is unique for its individually controlled cars on a fixed track. The Cowboy Coaster takes riders 370 feet up the mountain and then lets ‘em loose to twist and turn down through the trees, an exhilarating rollercoaster ride sporting four 360-degree corkscrew turns, some four stories tall.

Treetop Adventure

Built by world-class mountain guides, the Treetop Adventure features almost 100 aerial challenges that snake through the pine forests on Snow King Mountain. The enterprise is the dreamchild of Christian Santelices and his wife Sue Muncaster, who worked with Outplay Adventures to build this fantastical treetop adventure course for kids and adults. Wobbly bridges, Tarzan swings, and ziplines – all with incredible views of the Tetons and the town of Jackson – characterize this standout attraction.

Alpine Slide

On this predecessor to the mountain coaster, riders control the speed of a wheeled sled as gravity does all the heavy work. Flying through twists and turns on one of two side-byside tracks, pilots slide through banked turns and hairpin thrills at their own pace. It’s an exciting journey down 350 feet over the half-mile track at speeds up to 25 miles per hour. This ride begins and ends at the base of the Rafferty Lift.

New Chairlift

Reaching 300 feet higher and 1,000 feet further up the mountain, the new fixed-grip quad chair replaces the Rafferty double chair built in 1978. It provides access to the Cowboy Coaster, the Alpine Slide, and the Treetop Adventure park in summer, while opening up much-needed intermediate ski and snowboard terrain in winter.

The Cowboy Coaster, Snow King’s exciting new attraction, is a state-of-the-art alpine coaster that twists and turns down the mountain.

Scenic Chairlift Ride

This leisurely ride conveys folks up 1,571 feet to the summit of Snow King Mountain for 360-degree views of the Tetons, the Elk Refuge, and the town of Jackson. On a clear day riders can see all the way to Yellowstone. It’s a fun and easy way for anyone to enjoy the breathtaking natural beauty of Jackson Hole and accesses a self-guided nature trail and many miles of hiking trails.

Bungee Trampoline

The bungee trampoline makes backflips and belly flops possible for kids and adults strapped into a harness attached to bungee towers. Look for it by the Summit chairlift. This is a high-energy activity for kids as young as three years old.

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Miniature Golf

An American classic, miniature golf returns to the base of Snow King in a new location this summer. The new 18-hole course constructed by Harris Miniature Golf is sure to be a big hit.

Paragliding

Join Jackson Hole Paragliding for an exhilarating tandem flight with a professional paragliding pilot. This one-of-a-kind experience from the summit of Snow King Mountain will have sky pilots soaring over the town of Jackson, while affording incredible views of the valley the National Elk Refuge, the Grand Teton, and beyond.

Hiking

Get that heart pumping on the 1.8 mile Summit Trail, ascending 1,571 vertical feet. Take in gorgeous views of the Tetons, the Elk Refuge and

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Photo courtesy New Thought Media

the town of Jackson and find out why locals “Climb the King” on a weekly or even daily basis! The Snow King Mountain trail system is also a connector for the Cache Creek and Game Creek trail systems, and very popular with local hikers and cyclists.

Wade McKoy

Over 100 aerial challenges at the Treetop Adventure snake through the pine forest on Snow King Mountain.

Biking

The single-track trail system in the Greater Snow King Area is simply some of the best mountain biking in the world. Riders can choose short, medium, long, and even epic routes. Bike Rentals Mountain bikes, city bikes, and pathways bikes can be rented at Snow King Mountain Sports in the adjacent Snow King Hotel.

Bouldering

Teton Boulder Park at the base of Snow King boasts two artificial climbing boulders, one for kids and one which is said to be the largest artificial climbing rock in the world. The big one includes realistic cracks and flakes, and both are covered with artificial climbing holds. In the warm months of summer it isn’t uncommon to see both covered with climbers. And it’s free! Continued page 45

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Snow King Mountain fronts some of the world’s best singletrack mountain biking. Rider: Lynsey Dyer

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Grand Targhee Mountain Resort

H

Wade McKoy

igh on the western slope of the Teton Range, hidden among

forests of spruce, fir, pine, and aspen, sits Grand Targhee, a complete, year-round resort. Over 2,600 acres of terrain perfect for hiking, biking, horseback riding, music festivals, and, of course, skiing lie upon three mountain peaks. And from the tops of those peaks, the visitor can easily imagine reaching out and touching the magnificent Tetons.

Scenic Chairlift Ride

Photo courtesy Grand Targhee Resort

A ride up the Dreamcatcher chairlift to the 9,862-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain guarantees the best Teton views possible – and without ever breaking a sweat. The lift can jump-start a spectacular high-altitude hike or access relaxing, inspiring sightseeing. Take a bike up the lift, too, as long as it’s of the downhill variety. Habitat, Grand Targhee’s go-to biking shop located at the base of the mountain during the summer months, has everything needed to enjoy the downhill and cross-country bike trails.

The Plaza at the base of Grand Targhee

Mountain Bike

Explore 47-plus miles of multi-use trails, including a new flow park, ideal for perfecting downhill and cross-country bike skills. The Grand Targhee Bike Park offers every style of riding for every level of mountain biker: gentle banked cruisers, tight and twisty singletrack, cross-country, and gnarly, rock-strewn downhill with drop-offs. Lift-assisted rides start with Sidewinder to Lightning Ridge and Loop trails, then finish with Colter’s Escape for the longest descent on the mountain. The resort hosts a variety of downhill and cross-country races and closes out the summer with the annual Wydaho Rendezvous Mountain Bike Festival. Check out Targhee’s Bike School for lessons and tours. Roadies will love riding the 12-mile paved section from Driggs up to

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Targhee’s expanding singletrack continues to gain admirers.

the resort, where they’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the Grand Tetons. Bike rentals, sales, and service are available at Habitat at the resort and also at Habitat in downtown Driggs.

Climbing Wall & EuroBungee

Experience the fun and challenge of sport climbing right at the base area. The resort’s experienced staff will help coach recreationists to the top of its specially designed climbing wall. Fun for all ages and great for learning, the outdoor climbing wall offers six different routes. Good for first-time climbers, children, and those with experience alike. Each climb includes instructor, harness, and belay. The resort’s bungee trampoline hybrid provides an exhilarating expe-

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Rider: Liza Sarychev

rience where novices can bounce and flip while safely tethered.

Disc Golf

The 18-hole Grand Targhee Disc Golf Course plays through rolling aspen meadows at 8,000 feet! Frisbees seem to float farther at highalpine elevation, promising drives that are sometimes over 550 feet. Long holes, short holes, and everything in between, this is not your standard wide-open area. The course favors players with an arsenal of throwing techniques, from standard backhand and forehand to tomahawks. Beginners and experts alike will be challenged!

Hike

Hikes at the resort vary in length and wind through wildflower-laced

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meadows, aspen forests, and may even offer a glimpse of the local wildlife. Hikes range from a half-mile to 3.2 miles and of course ensure stunning views of the Grand Tetons. Stop at the Nature Center to learn about the local ecology and wildlife, and sign up for a guided hike.

Horseback Trail Rides

A good horse is still a prized Western companion and the best mode of travel for a long tour through these mountains. The local cowboys at Haviland's Western Adventures can saddle up a good steed and show riders the mountains the old-fashioned way. Aside from walking, riding a horse is the only way to tour the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area within Continued next page

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the stop after a day on the slopes. Live music most Fridays and Saturdays is only one reason to drop in and kick up the heels. Another? The Trap’s eight flat-screen TVs–perfect for catching any sporting event. Shop for the latest styles and gear just steps away from Targhee lodging at Teton Mountain Outfitters and The Board Shop, or stock up on staples at The General Store. Habitat in nearby Driggs carries the best lifestyle soft goods.

Targhee

The Teton’s west slope is Grand Targhee’s backyard.

Continued from previous page

the Teton Range. Face it: horses can take cowpokes a lot farther than their own two feet can. Private horseback riding is not allowed.

Naturalist Programs

That Rocky Mountain journey can start at the resort’s Nature Center, located just off the plaza, or at its new Summit Nature Center at the top of Dreamcatcher in the summer months. Both sites offer a feel for the critters and plants found there. From moose to pine martin, lupine to forget-me-not, the center provides a feast for the eyes, ears, and nose on some of the Lower 48’s purest landscape.

Dining & Shopping

No one goes hungry at Grand Targhee, no matter what time it is. The Branding Iron Grill, the resort’s signature dining experience, offers a menu inspired by fresh and locally farmed ingredients. The Trap Bar, an aprèsski institution for over 40 years, serves pub fare and offers more than 12 beers on tap, including many from local breweries. All winter long, this is

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Lodging

Three Western-style lodges are located in the high alpine village, just steps from the lifts and trails. A wide range of condominiums, vacation homes, and town homes are available a short distance from the resort.

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— Adventure Guide

Wade McKoy photos

Music

12th Annual Targhee Music Fest From Friday to Sunday, July 15-17, an eclectic gathering of bands perform in a natural outdoor amphitheater adjacent to Targhee’s basearea plaza. Catch performances from Drive-By Truckers, Grace Potter, Josh Ritter, Hot Tuna Electric, the Jamie McLean Band, Jerry Joseph and the Jackmormons, Steve Kimock, Larry Campbell and Teresa Williams, the Jayhawks, Sister Sparrow and the Dirty Birds, HoneyHoney, JJ Grey and Mofro, and more. Food, games, and on-site activities are all a part of this summer music festival. Tent camping on-site is available during the festival weekend. Take advantage of the free shuttle service and leave your vehicle in Driggs. 29th Annual Targhee Bluegrass Festival From Friday to Sunday, August 12-14, this summer’s lineup at the Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival includes the Sam Bush Band, The Infamous Stringdusters featuring Nicki Bluhm, Lord Huron, Trampled By Turtles, The Lil’ Smokies, Pokey LaFarge, The O’Connor Family Band, Mary Gauthier, Sara Watkins, the Steep Canyon Rangers, the David Grisman Sextet, The Waybacks, Betse & Clarke, HillBenders presents The Who’s “Tommy,” and more. Picker and fiddlers can even come early for the 11th Annual Targhee Music Camp to learn from some of the best acoustic musicians and teachers out there.


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Snow King

Free concert series, Jackson Hole Live!

The free concert series JacksonHoleLive! celebrates its fifth year this summer at Snow King Ball Park. Concerts begin at 5:30 p.m. and end at 10 p.m. Food and beverage vendors fill the pallette. Please, no dogs, tarps, glass, alcohol, or coolers. Bring the family, Teton Boulder Park at the base of Snow King though. two dozen area vendors. The People’s Market pitches its tents near the Sunday, June 19 – Father’s Day Solstice Party & 11th annual JH base of the Cougar chairlift every Wednesday, 4-7 p.m., from mid-June Crawfish Boil featuring The Revivalists with special guest Sneaky Pete & to mid-September. And during the month of August, catch a free movie the Secret Weapons after the Farmer’s Market closes by rolling over to the adjacent Snow Wednesday, June 29 – Galactic with special guest Canyon Kids King Ball Park at dusk for a Bike-In Movie. It’s a drive-in, minus the cars. Wednesday, July 13 – The Record Company with special guests For details, visit www.jhpeoplesmarket.org. Major Zephyr w/ Wendy Colonna The Snow King Hotel is the lodging closest to the resort. The hotel’s Friday, August 19 – Shovels & Rope, special guest Jalan Crossland 200+ rooms, along with the lobby, restaurant, bar, and pool were fully Also enlivening the base area is the People’s Market, a kind of renovated in 2013. Their number is 307 733 5200. farmer’s market outdoor food enterprise offering locally grown produce as well as baked goods, meat and dairy products, and crafts from some — Adventure Guide

Events

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Jackson

WYOMING, 83001

By Joseph Piccoli

ooking back, it’s easy to l map the route that leads to today’s Jackson – tourism hub, conservation hotbed, playground for the mega-rich, hometown. Looking forward, the way is not so clear.

at the base of Snow King Mountain’s ski slopes. Highway 89 crosses Flat Creek from the north.

fornia was luxury cuisine. No one was eating fresh raw tuna flown in from half a world away. But there were tourists (more commonly referred to in the day as “dudes”) and there was cutting edge technology that made Jackson a little less remote and isolated for them. Tele-

The Stagecoach circles the Town Square – a sign of the old times.

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phone and telegraph lines reached the valley not long after the first Mormon settlers, prompting one booster to boast: “Suppose a New Yorker wishes to spend his summer (in) his camp among the pines. He need not have fear about being able to send telegrams and cablegrams,” and thus remain abreast of his business in the city. In 2016 with world-wide jet travel and continent-wide truck and car transport it’s hard to imagine a time when single oranges were given as Christmas gifts. And with the Japanese staple now sold in most local grocery stores, it’s even hard to believe sushi was once not a staple on local plates. Likewise, it’s hard today to imagine a time when telegrams and cablegrams were stateof-the-art telecommunications tools. Now almost anyone can afford a single device that combines a phone and a powerful computer and fits in a pocket. Those were big changes, but the early 20th century booster singing the praises of Jackson’s connection to the outside world would likely recognize a town now even more dependent on visitors to drive its economy and on technology to make it less remote. Jets fly in sushi, but also tourists. Highways bring fresh oranges and even more visitors. The same technology that enables every visitor to Jackson easy contact with home and work also enables Jackson hotels, motels, restaurants and boutiques, easy contact with the world. One thing hasn’t changed much in 102

Photos: Bob Woodall (stagecoach) Wade McKoy (town)

Archeological evidence suggests Paleo-Indian people were visiting the valley known today as Jackson Hole within a thousand years of the end of the last Ice Age, but the remote location and harsh climate probably kept all but a handful from staying year-round. It wasn’t until the arrival of Mormon pioneers in the late 1880s that permanent, yearround settlements took hold in the valley. Jackson, named in 1893 to make mail delivery easier quickly rose to prominence Jackson sits among those settlements. In 1914, the year Jackson became a legal town, the first instance of the question: “What’s the difference between Jackson and Jackson Hole?” was recorded. Seriously, in 1914, Jackson was a remote, isolated place. A weeks-old orange from Cali-


years. While Jackson has grown up, it hasn’t grown out. National parks, national forests, national wildlife refuges, and other federal and state lands literally surround the town. The mountainous landscape protected in Grand Teton National Park is instantly recognizable to people around the world. Although less familiar to the eye, the National Elk Refuge preserves important winter habitat for the valley’s iconic elk, and was an early check on sprawl in the town. Add in the 3.4-million-acre Bridger-Teton National Forest, and the amount privately-owned land in the area comes in at a mere fraction of the whole. Who would have predicted that Jackson would go in 102 years from a hardscrabble ranching town of a few dozen to a micro-metropolis and an international tourism destination? Not Jonathan Schechter, Jackson’s resident futurist and executive director of The Charture

It is the landscape, the wildlife and the culture that distinguish Jackson from other communities. Institute, described on www.charture.org as a “think tank focused on growth, change, and sustainability in Places of Ecological and Aesthetic Significance.” Looking back, Schechter says, it is easy to recognize that the landscape, the wildlife, and the culture distinguish Jackson from other communities. Looking forward, he says, preserving those attributes will allow Jackson to remain recognizable, and unique, among destination resorts. Some of the big influences that shaped Jackson in the last century continue to operate, Schechter says. Technological progress brought jets and cell phones and will work further change. The changing energy environment could produce tremors if steep cost increases for fossil fuels makes travel to Jackson prohibitively expensive. One of the biggest potential disruptors Schechter foresees is climate change. Jackson lies in the midst of one of the few large, relatively intact ecosystems in the world, and one of the coldest. A 2015 study, “The Coming Climate: Ecological and Economic Impacts of Climate Change on Teton County,” commissioned by Schechter’s Charture Institute and conducted by the Teton Research Institute of the Teton Science Schools found that among the more than 16,000 school districts in the United States, Teton County, Wyoming’s district ranks as the 74th coldest – in the bottom half percent. At the same time, the report noted, changes in temperature and precipitation are occurring in the region. Average annual temperatures have increased by 1.1° F, and stream temperatures have increased by 1.8° F since 1900. “Frost-free nights are occurring earlier in the spring and later in the fall, and less precipitation is falling as snow (with more falling as rain)” according to the report’s executive summary. Another local organization paying close attention to Jackson’s future is Shifting How we Invest For Tomorrow, sponsor of the SHIFT Festival, now entering its third year and

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scheduled for Oct. 13-15. SHIFT’s objective, says the festival’s website, “is to advance on-the-ground solutions that leverage outdoor recreation for conservation gains, and to provide a unified framework for natural allies to protect our lands, waters and wildlife.”

Keynote speakers at this year’s festival are author and educator Terry Tempest Williams and “hunter-gatherer” Steven Rinella. Complete details about the 2016 festival are at shiftjh.org. Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole.

HÄAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM

All natural ice cream (Gluten-free flavors available). Non-dairy sorbet, huckleberry shakes, smoothies, sundaes, shakes, espresso drinks, ice cream cakes. We make our own waffle cones! Locally owned and operated. Since 1993, southeast corner of the Jackson Town Square.

90 E. Broadway | Jackson 307.739.1880 www.haagendazs.com

The widest selection of toys in the area especially Lego, Melissa & Doug, and plush animals. 10 E. Broadway South Side of Jackson Town Square Located Inside of Lee's Tees 307-200-6066

PINKY G’s PIZZERIA

Cozy up at Pinky G’ s Pizzeria! The local favorite. Located ½ block off Town Square. Televised on Guy Fieri’ s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. Voted Best Pizza in Jackson Hole. Try the menu favorite, The Abe Froman, with Italian sausage, buffalo mozzarella, and basil. With 20 beers to choose from, full bar & live music, we are sure to keep you entertained. Jackson’ s only place OPEN LATE! 50 W. Broadway | Jackson 307.734.PINK (7465) www.pinkygs.com

Thirsty after an exhilarating day in beautiful Jackson Hole? Stop by Westside Wine & Spirits in the Aspens on Teton Village Road for a savory wine, scrumptious beer, or tempting spirit. Our knowledgable staff is here everyday from 10 am-9 pm. At the Aspens | Teton Village Road 307.733.5038 www.westsidewinejh.com

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cody WYOMING, 82414

Cody’s Old Trail Town is a collection of historic buildings and artifacts from the Old West.

By Mike Calabrese

ody, Wyoming, has a lot to live up to. C Barely an hour from the nation’s foremost

A visit to this living museum of the Old and New West leaves little doubt about the town’s niche in mountain-country treasures. Cody lies at the hub of several breathtaking roadways and affords visitors journeys into scenery unsurpassed anywhere. For starters: The Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway courses alongside the Shoshone River’s north fork, through the Wapiti (a Native American word for elk) Valley and leads to Yellowstone National Park. Another, The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, besides recalling one of the most heartbreaking events in U.S. history, winds through the Clark’s Fork region, past Sunlight Basin and to the top of Dead Indian Pass. Neither the area’s history nor the lay of the land can be ignored here. One byway, the Beartooth All-American Road, is not for the faint of heart. Its 10,947-foot crest has led some to call it “the most beautiful highway in America.” The vistas here are unequalled and worth their weight in gold – or camera equipment. And those are just for starters. Or “leavers,” if you can pull yourself away from the town itself. A stay in Cody is something like a dig for archaeologists, revealing layer upon layer of

The Buffalo Bill Center of the West houses six, world-class museums that display significant artworks, artifacts, and natural history exhibits of the American West.

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river in kayaks or rafts, or casting a line from a bank or into a pool of cutthroat, water recreationists can put their energies to work sun up to sundown. Families looking for a quick hike into Buffalo Bill’s beloved country can trek pretty much right from the town environs on the Paul Stock Nature Trail. The pathway parallels the Photos: Bob Woodall

national park, the town and its namesake, the nearly mythic Colonel William F. (Buffalo Bill) Cody, hold an undisputed place in the American West’s history.

life’s insights and adventures. Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts—pretty much anyone drawn to the region’s impressive landscape— will all uncover its treasures. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. On the

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Shoshone River and affords views of Heart, Rattlesnake, Cedar, and Carter mountains. Cameras and kids will love this jaunt. Bikers, too, find quick easy access into trails, again right from town. Beck Lake Park, Red Lakes, and of course the Paul Stock Nature Trail, make crafting a colorful family outing a snap. The West and horses, both symbols of the region’s landscape, go hand in hand and still tug at travelers to Cody country. Hundreds of miles of trails, full- or half-day rides, or fullblown multi-day pack trips await those chomp-

The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages. ing at the bit to sit a horse. As with any healthy community, Cody is proud of its cultural life. But Cody’s palette of offerings has the added benefit of geography and history. The vibrant Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a constantly growing museum, showcases and celebrates the rich, epochal American West. The town’s complex of historical edifices helps preserve Cody’s connection to one of America’s most prized eras, the settling of the West. Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel, nearby historic Old Town, Tecumseh’s Old West Village, the Dug Up Cody Museum, to name just a few, should easily keep kids and adults alike wondering about and celebrating history’s eye into the past. Music, too, is permanently etched into Cody’s living fabric. From cowboy music reviews to chuckwagon dinners with live music, the town bubbles with aural and visual delights. Cody’s Rendezvous Royale, one of the town’s signature events, is slated for late September, a period Westerners consider the most beautiful time of the year. One Main Street gathering – Boot Scoot ‘N Boogie – draws artists, photographers, sculptors and a festive crowd downtown to sample great food, fashion, and music. And, finally, there’s the Cody Nite Rodeo, with all its spectacle, drama, and just plain old family fun. Billed as the Rodeo Capitol of the World, Cody’s rodeo season runs nightly from June 1 through August 31. Sometimes, though, the simple things in life yield the greatest treasures. In a move the town’s founders would be proud of, the chamber of commerce has created an audio tour narrated by hometown boy and former U.S. Senator Alan Simpson. An audio clip and a PDF map, both downloadable from www.codychamber.org, allow visitors with their feet on the ground a relaxing view into Cody’s downtown history. Simpson’s charming, heartfelt narration is the perfect companion for a rewarding walking tour into Cody’s history and its landmarks in town and on the horizons. The site hosts a colorful compendium of photos, information, and opportunities for the visitor to Cody country. Just right for families planning the trip of a lifetime into the living West – old and new. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.

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FULL OF WILDNESS. There’s plenty to see and do. Start planning your Cody, Wyoming vacation today. 1-800-393-2639 ~ YELLOWSTONECOUNTRY.ORG

T H E W I L D E S T WAY IN T O Y E L L O W S T O N E

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CODY NITE RODEO Rodeo Capitol of the World

By Joy Ufford

ust puffs underfoot as cowd girls and cowboys, little to large,

The setting sun sends shafts of warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone – rider, roper, racer – in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls. It’s the most magical moment of the night, when a microphone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them deeply every time –“the land of the free and the home of the brave…” Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of Mexico and old California) that it’s mandaBull riding, one of the most exciting events at the rodeo. tory to see the star-spangled bantrue for the animals as it does for the men and ner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she women who ride them and for the rodeo clowns gallops around the arena on her horse, both who risk life and limb to entertain the crowd. showing off for appreciative crowds. Cody has been called the “Rodeo Capital of That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way – the World,” and that isn’t stretching things. Talshowing off. From snaky bulls to snorting ented cowboys and girls come from Peru, Ausbroncs, born to buck and born to run; from a tralia, Canada – even Japan – to test their skills glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise-fringed leather there. It’s about From snaky bulls to snorting showing off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with living to kick higher, run broncs, born to buck and born to faster, ride longer, rope quicker. run; from a glittering rhinestoneFor bull and bronc riders it’s about getting betstudded belt here to some ter scores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride. For the bulls and broncs, it’s about putting on a turquoise-fringed leather there. It’s show trying to launch cowboys into outer space. about showing off in a good way, When the sparkling gals tear around on their stretched-out horses, burning turns around because there’s nothing wrong three barrels set in sand, speed and style comwith living to kick higher, run mand attention. For the more taciturn ropers, it’s faster, ride longer, rope quicker. the quick elegance of a rope sailing through the air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. in Cody Stampede Park vying for big cash and Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to big buckles. And to have an exciting show be alive. There’s nothing like it. every night from June 1 to August 31, the rough Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years, stock has to buck. except to get even better – better horses, Nightly events include bareback and saddle meaner bulls, faster times, and more money. broncs, calf and team roping, steer wrestling, But one thing that never changes about rodeo breakaway roping, barrel racing and bull riding, is the contestants’ heartfelt desires to be good, as well as a calf scramble for the kids. The even great, at something they love. youngsters are also treated to trick-roping The same can be said of their horses, demonstrations, meeting bullfighters, getting whether buckin’ broncs or muscled mounts: their face painted by rodeo clowns and more. that good feeling of doing a job well holds as

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Bob Woodall

expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuffle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests.

All grandstand seating is covered and affords great views of the arena. Then there’s the Buffalo Bill Cody Stampede, one of the country’s premiere Fourth of July rodeo celebrations. It’s been playing host to the top cowboys and cowgirls for 97 years and is one of nine stops on the Million Dollar Gold Tour Series. Often called "Cowboy Christmas" by the contestants, it’s one of rodeo's crown jewels. For top cowboys and cowgirls, this is the place to win big purses and ride the best stock. The Stampede gets kicked off on June 30 at 8 p.m. with the Xtreme Bulls event when 40 of the world’s top bull riders shoot for the title with its $15,000 purse. July 1, 2, and 3 rodeo performances are at 8 p.m., July 4th performance is at 5 p.m. Then on August 14 at 8 p.m., the Wrangler Champions Challenge will gather 88 top rodeo contestants to compete for part of the $125,000 purse. The event will be telecasted on the CBS Sports Network. Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $20 for adults, $10 for kids 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets range from $20-$25. All can be reserved by calling 1-800-207-0744, going online at codystampederodeo.com. Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner.


BUFFALO BILL DAM

Inspired engineering among the crags

Photo courtesy Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center

By Mike Calabrese

mirers and recreationists as well. Buffalo Bill In the heart of Colonel William F. Cody’s old State Park and the reservoir’s waters play haunt, in fact right on some of Cody’s own host to anglers, boaters, campers, photograland, one piece of Wyoming reflects nature and phers, windsurfers, hikers, cyclists, and man at work together, albeit reluctantly. The those simply seeking a breathtaking place to Buffalo Bill Dam, fashioned from almost 83,000 comprehend the results of nature’s and cubic yards of concrete over five years, sits on man’s combined efforts. the bed of the Shoshone River, in a canyon The visitor center is staffed and open from carved by nature over millions of years. The massive project in the Shoshone Canyon claimed the lives of seven men during its construction, no small cost when compared to the pittance (by today’s standards) of the project’s final bill: $929,658. At 325 feet high and 200 feet across, the impressive structure was the tallest of its kind back in its early days, when it was known as the Shoshone Dam. Water flowed from the dam, providing lifeblood to farmers, ranchers, and residents in the region upon its completion in 1910. More than 93,000 acres of land in the surPerched atop the 353-foot-tall Buffalo Bill Dam, the visitor center rounding Bighorn Basin affords a spectacular view of the 116-year-old dam and the depend on the liquid gold canyon below. stored behind the dam May to September, affording visitors jaw-dropfor irrigation. In 1922, the completion of the ping views of both the dam and the river. Best Shoshone Power Plant brought the dam to its of all, admission is free! A nonprofit enterprise, full potential. the center also offers travelers the chance to In 1946 the dam was renamed in honor of grab a cup of coffee while viewing exhibits, enBuffalo Bill, who immediately knew the value of joying a movie in its theater, or even purchasthe West and perhaps its most coveted element: ing tickets to Cody’s Nite Rodeo. The Buffalo water. A visionary, Cody realized that canals Bill Dam is designated a National Civil Engicould never really supply enough water to effineering Landmark and is listed on the National ciently nurture settlement and growth in the reRegister of Historic Places. gion. He gave up on his own plan for an For more information, visit the website at: extensive canal system and redirected his efforts www.bbdvc.com. and support to the construction of the dam. While still reliably fulfilling its original purMike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and pose, the dam today draws thousands of adwriter living in Jackson Hole.

■ Located 6 miles west of Cody, Wyoming ■ Civil Engineering Landmark ■ Travel Information

■ Self-guided historical

audio tour ■ Fantastic views, exhibits, Bookstore & Free Wi-Fi

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HIKING

E

Some of my favorite places

By Becky Woods

xperiencing the landscape of Greater Yellowstone from inside your vehicle is akin to window-shopping: it only offers a glimpse of the treasures that wait within. Incomparable scenic vistas, wildflowers, and wildlife lie beyond the asphalt. Put on your walking shoes and hit the dirt on the favored trails suggested below. They won’t disappoint.

Grand Teton National Park

Begin your park exploration at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Moose. A free orientation film, exhibits, helpful staff and a selection of maps and guidebooks will enrich your time spent in the Tetons. Fill your water bottle and head down the inner park road to the turnout for String Lake at North Jenny Lake Junction. The signed Leigh Lake trail begins at the north end of String Lake parking area. This pleasantly wooded path parallels first String, then Leigh lakes—framed by the best close-up views of Mount Moran in the park. If this spec-

tacular hike whets your appetite for more (and it will!) check out the Lake Creek/Woodland Trail Loop in Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve or the perennial favorite trail to Hidden Falls departing from the South Jenny Lake parking area. An early start is recommended for both these justly popular trails, to secure both parking and relative solitude.

Jackson and Teton Village

Visitors lodging in the town of Jackson or Teton Village will find rewarding hiking in their respective “backyard” ski areas. A network of trails honeycombs the summit and base of Snow King Mountain in Jackson; download a free map at friendsofpathways.org/resources. Riding the chairlift to the summit of Snow King and hiking 1.8-miles down to the base is a popular option. The panoramic view showcases Jackson and the five mountain ranges surrounding this mountain town. The tram ride to the summit of 10,400-foot Rendezvous Peak in Teton Village instantly transports you to the alpine zone and tremendous views of the Gros Ventre Range enclosing the east side of Jack-

At Schwabacher Landing walkers can follow a user trail along the braided Snake River flood plane (except during seasonal wildlife closures).


Wade McKoy


son Hole. Set off on the Top of the World Trail to the Cody Bowl Spur Trail and Green River Overlook for views of the Tetons and the valley floor far below. Double-back, or continue on the Rock Springs Trail to the Summit Trail to complete the memorable 4.2-mile Cody Bowl/ Rock Springs Loop. A spectacular new trail links the summit of Rendezvous Mountain with the top of the Bridger Gondola, dropping 1,350 vertical feet as it winds through the spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverses The Cirque and descends the Headwall. From there the gondola ride down is free. Trail maps are available at jacksonhole.com.

Yellowstone The nation’s first national park deserves a

lifetime of exploration. Assuming your vacation isn’t quite that long, one has to be selective. Luckily, some of the best short hikes in the park bring you up-close-and-personal with its major attractions. Cerulean blue Grand Prismatic Spring—the world’s largest known hot spring—commands attention as you near Old Faithful. Dubbed the “Earth’s Eye,” it can be reached via the boardwalk at Midway Geyser Basin. Check the geyser eruption schedule at the Old Faithful Visitor’s Center when you arrive: if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to hike to impressive Castle Geyser to witness it spout off, an event that only occurs twice a day. Elephant Back Loop Trail, south of Fishing Bridge, offers an elevated view of Yellowstone Lake

backed by Mt. Sheridan, snow-capped well into summer. Trails to the bottom of thundering Tower Falls and through the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs both earn spots on the don’t-miss list. This author’s personal favorite, however, is Uncle Tom’s Trail at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. This path, the oldest in the park, drops into the canyon for soclose-you-get-wet views of 308-foot Lower Falls. Early park visitors held onto a knotted rope to make the steep descent. Today’s visitors hike on open-mesh, steel steps. Inexpensive trail maps can be purchased at various visitor centers, or downloaded in advance at www. yellowstone-natl-park. com/maps.htm.

Hikers can enjoy a bird’s-eye view into Death Canyon from the trail up Static Peak in Grand Teton National Park.

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Grand Targhee/Teton Valley The west slope of the Teton Range lies predominantly in Wyoming, but is accessed through Idaho’s Teton Valley. “Wydaho” boasts spectacular hiking. The level hike up South Teton Canyon provides a world-class warm-up before moving on to knock-your-socks-off views at Grand Targhee Ski Resort. The new Bannock Trail skirts the lip of South Leigh Canyon as it climbs to the top of Fred’s Mountain. Outstanding wildflowers and views make it the trail of choice.

Pinedale

Cody The heart of the Old West and eastern gateway town to Yellowstone, Cody’s charm is multi-faceted. Both the Paul Stock Natural Trail and the Shoshone Riverway parallel the Shoshone River, offering a kid- and pet-friendly

means to stretch your legs and perhaps sight waterfowl and wildlife. Inquire locally for directions. More adventurous is a hike/easy scramble to the top of Heart Mountain, located equidistant between Cody and Powell off Hwy. 14. This geologic anomaly rises above the sage, its 8,123-foot summit offering a scenic peek into Big Horn Basin. Explore remnants of the Heart Mountain Camp at the conclusion of your outing. This WWII Japanese internment camp is a state historic site under consideration for national park status. Rebecca Woods has penned numerous highly regarded guidebooks to the Greater Yellowstone region, including Jackson Hole Hikes, Targhee Trails, and Beyond the Tetons.

Wade McKoy

Pinedale is the portal to the Wind River Range, arguably the best backpacking range in the lower 48 and home to 15 of Wyoming’s

16 highest peaks. Day hikers will want to check out Green River Lakes. These comely bodies of water attract canoeists and anglers, and provide reflecting pools for impressive Squaretop Mountain, an oft-photographed Wyoming landmark as recognizable as the Grand Teton. An attainable panorama of the Winds’ high peaks is found at Photographer’s Point. The trail begins at Elkhart Park, located at the end of Fremont Lake Road.

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Wade McKoy

From near the summit of Teweenot climbers can see much of the Teton Range. Alpinist: Bill MacLeod, 1980s

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CLIMBING

Guides connect people with an historic alpine pursuit

T

Wade McKoy / Wilderness Ventures

he Tetons’ craggy peaks have drawn mankind to them since Lakota braves ventured on high from their grassy, flat hunting grounds. These Native Americans left their marks, one notable spot at the summit of The Enclosure, a peak sonamed for its shrine of flat rocks set on edge and used for their Vision Quests.

Mountaineering often includes backpacking from the valley floor to a campsite in the alpine zone.

By the late 19th Century, the first modern American climbers had made their marks, too, depicted by route and peak names that honor mountaineering pioneers such as William Owen, Paul Petzoldt, the Reverend Spalding, and many others. Potent today as ever before, these majestic mountains still beckon passersby, to walk up a canyon beside a rushing stream, to sit beneath a stand of towering old-growth timber, and to climb toward the summits. Those who heed the call are enriched by the process of work, achievement, rest, and reflection. “The initial lure of climbing, and still the bottom line for many of us, is it allows us to be in a lot of places that a lot of people don’t get to be,” says Jackson Hole Mountain Guides’ head man Rob Hess. This sense of privileged passage, revered in the lives of mountaineers, fuels the fires of dedication. Those who haven’t had a chance to let climbing into their lives on such an intimate level – yet – can especially benefit by hiring a guide. A smart move that helps keep the task’s many demands in perspective. “I would call climbing a discipline rather than a sport,” says Hess. “It incorporates every thought in your life, your physical makeup, and even, I suppose, your spiritual being. It’s all-encompassing. It becomes your

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identity and drives your life.” Those who haven’t had a chance to let climbing into their lives on such an intimate level – yet – can especially benefit by hiring a guide. And one who puts all the hard work into perspective. “The initial adrenaline becomes euphoria when you’ve worked through a climb,” Hess continues, “especially if you make it up something where you went through some fear.” A strong mindset gains traction better even than physical fitness. “For any discipline, you have to train your mind and your body to work at a high level,” he says. “But physical strength doesn’t work alone, and doesn’t account for all that much if you don’t also have the necessary mental strength and fortitude. There are people who aren’t necessarily that strong, but that are super accomplished because mentally they’re so tough, they push so hard.” Climbers like fun, too, but they need discipline. In climbing, many have found a discipline that transcends the sport. “When I’m up on a route, I’m completely in the moment,” Hess says. “I’m not thinking of anything else. All the distractions, the baggage of life, the various forms of stress, you’re leaving everything else behind, thinking fully on climbing what’s in front of you, focused on the rightthen-and-there.” Continued next page

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Wade McKoy / Wilderness Ventures

Learning to climb a friction pitch, young climbers add an essential mountaineering skill to their growing quiver.

Eric Rohr

Continued from previous page

Toby Stegman on Babylon, 5.11+, Hoback Canyon

Hess says this total focus is cleansing. It’s freedom––and that there aren’t many things like that in life. “Martial arts masters talk about achieving that focus without a discipline,” says Hess. “They say Westerners need a discipline to achieve that state of consciousness where you’re not thinking about anything else. Where you’re focused.” And within the discipline of climbing, there is more: a different kind of adrenaline fix. “For me, the exhilaration comes from working through fear,” he says. “Controlling fear and not letting it overtake me.” He takes ice climbing as the ultimate example. “Anybody who ice climbs a lot will tell you that it’s kind of a scary pursuit,” he points out. “It’s an ethereal sport. It’s there and gone. You’re climbing on ice at one time of year, and at another time of year the ice route doesn’t even exist. When you’re on it, you have to be very precise. Your protection keeps you from dying, but still, you can’t fall. Working through your fear and pressing forth is an exhilarating element, I think.” Many guides look at the job as a way to give back to the lifestyle they love. “Climbing is self-centered,” he observes. “Everything you do is about personal development. Yes, you have partnerships, and those are some of the best parts of being a climber. But, fundamentally, you’re developing your own physical and mental self. So for me, to solve the problem of giving something back in life, the obvious solution is being a mountain guide. To take that knowledge, that exuberance, and that enjoyment of the mountains and help someone else enjoy that.” Center yourself and heed the call of the mighty Tetons. Hire a climbing guide and find out why the indigenous tribes of mankind scaled these majestic summits to perform their most revered spiritual ceremonies. — Adventure Guide

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Eric Rohr

Rock climbing, once learned, can become a lifetime pursuit. Climber: Toby Stegman. Belayer: Wesley Gooch

Single Day Programs Stand on the Summit While the Grand Teton may be the crown jewel of the Teton Range, there are plenty of options for those who aren’t mountaineers or don't have time to summit such a big peak. A range of moderate-to-difficult mountain summits can be reached in a long day. The lengthy approaches also make these climbs attractive overnight adventures. These climbs will get you high into the rarified alpine zone and out of the park’s heavy foot-traffic. Climbing one of these non-tech-

Alpine Summits & Climbing Classes For Everyone nical peaks is one of the most intimate ways to experience Grand Teton National Park. The day starts early to summit Surprise Pinnacle, Disappointment Peak, or Teewinot. Technical Rock Climbing Professional guides take individuals and families on a fun-filled day with breathtaking views. Aesthetic climbing challenges include the guides’ favorites: Symmetry Spire, Disappointment Peak, Ice Point, Irene’s Arete, The Snaz, Guide’s Wall and more. These

climbs represent a variety of difficulties and experiences, and are all classics. Climbing School Learn to climb from the pros and make your day on the rocks informative, exciting, and enjoyable. Courses for all ages range from beginner to advanced and include special programs for corporate groups or private clubs. Classes are taught in one of three scenic locations in Grand Teton National Park or the Bridger-Teton National Forest. — Jackson Hole Mountain Guides

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COMMUNITY PATHWAYS A mountain town success story

By Mike Calabrese Safe to say, there isn’t a more recreation-oriented community in mountain country than Jackson Hole. And its pathways system, coursing along 56 miles of the valley floor and still growing, is solid proof of a love affair with the outdoors.

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On any given day of the year, folks around here are walking, cycling, running, skiing, skating, ambling—just plain moving—along some part of this non-motorized vehicle pathway system. And right out the backdoor lie 125 miles of maintained front-country trails in the Greater Snow King Area, Teton Pass, and Munger Mountain. On the books, another 15 miles by 2017 and 42 more miles planned for Grand Teton National Park. Not bad, considering the first installment back in 1996 was a scant four miles of completed pathway. A healthy cooperative effort between public and private initiative has moved Jackson Hole to the forefront of alternative transportation. The skyrocketing use of the pathways system helps convey people along all parts of the valley.

WHAT’S NEW

Path 22 was constructed last summer, opened for use last fall, and was plowed for year-round use last winter. Together with the pedestrian bridge over the Snake River completed in 2014, Path 22 connects residents in Wilson, Teton Village, and along Moose-Wilson road with residents in Jackson. This long-awaited missing link affords pathway users a complete, non-motorized route throughout Jackson Hole. New signs provide a county-wide directions system that’s informational and attractive. The national Bike Share Demonstration program visited Jackson for three weeks last summer. Bike Share user surveys will supply data to evaluate the potential for a full-time system here. For more information on pathways and trails, please visit the Friends Of Pathways website at friendsofpathways.org.

TOWN OF JACKSON AND SOUTH

In town, bike pathways and signage lead cyclists along friendly on-street bike routes. They eventually hook up with paved and sepaFifty six miles of pathway, like this section in South Park, connect communitys throughout Jackson Hole.

Wade McKoy photos

NORTH OF JACKSON

To the north, paved pathway asphalt allows users to venture from downtown Jackson, travel along the stunning landscape of the National Elk Refuge, over the Gros Ventre River, and 14 miles into Grand Teton National Park, its namesake glorious peaks visible the entire journey. Bicyclists often ride this pathway from the town of Jackson all the way to Jenny Lake and back, enjoying a safer thoroughfare than the highway bristling with traffic that it parallels.


Opening ceremonies at the R Park bridge drew many supporters, including some of the original crew of road bicyclists in Jackson Hole (from left: Rody Hagen, Keith Benefiel, Jorge Colon.


Jackson Holeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Community Pathways provide safe passage for non-motorized travel and recreation.


rated pathways at Jackson’s south end. From there, exclusive pathways loop south of town (also known as South Park) and back to Path 22 that connects Jackson with Wilson and Teton Village.

RENDEZVOUS PARK: R PARK

At the heart of the valley’s newest crossroads lies the 40acre R Park. This is where the pathways’ world and the region’s largest citizen-spawned park converge. This refuge holds beautiful ponds, trails, and trees. Its landmark flagtopped knoll, accessible to everyone on foot, boasts a commanding view of the entire preserve. The R Park, the community’s newest and most popular gathering spot, rests nearly up against the Wilson Snake River boat launch and the stunning pathways bridge arcing over the famous waters. Leaving the camera behind would be a mistake. Views of the waters rushing below and the long expanse of the Teton Range warrant framing. Bulbouts on the bridge allow for simply taking in the sights, too. The park, in another example of cooperative spirit, offers a passel of activities from the ground up. Stargazing and weekly tours, for example, all kick off with a meeting at the park’s landscaped knoll.

Wade McKoy photos

SAFETY ETIQUETTE

Now, a few words of caution, admonishments if you will. First, to the cyclists: Tour de France wannabes should keep their high-speed histrionics off the pathways. Save it for the highways. That’s what the real dealers do. High-velocity cyclists and pedestrians don’t mix well. It can be, and already has been, a lethal combination in our fair valley. Keep in mind that scads of youngster ply these pathways, too. Cyclists moving along the pathways should remember to signal their approach with a bell or voice and reveal their intentions to pass (generally) on the left. Walkers, joggers, and rollerbladers (and other cyclists) should acknowledge the approaching cyclist’s signal with a raised hand or a head nod. All too often, people’s ear-bud music makes them deaf to the audible signals of others approaching from behind. This can leave the cyclist wondering if the other pathway user will abruptly veer into them and wreck everybody’s day. Next, Fido. Some sections of the pathways do not allow dogs, leashed or otherwise. Respect that. And clean up the dookies. PAWS, the local pet advocacy and wellness support organization, has installed and supplies over 150,000 mutt-mitts at 60 stations throughout the valley. No one, not even a pet owner, enjoys sliding around on dog-greased pathways or sidewalks.

New signs provide county-wide directions in an attractive, engaging display.

MAPS

For stellar maps and a complete rundown of the pathways system and its amenities, visit friendsofpathways.org. To preview the R Park, drop by rendezvouslandsconservancy.org or just Google R park in Jackson Hole. Mike Calabrese is a musician, writer, and editor in this valley so sweet.

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Michael Calabrese 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 www.noteworthymusicagency.com jhnoteworthy@gmail.com

Friends of Pathways ambassador Jay Pistono (right) notes his approval at the opening ceremony of the Path 22 bridge.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT PATHWAYS? “ The pathways connect us to some great recreational areas, and we’re very thankful for that! “ l e a r n m o r e a t w w w. f r i e n d s o f p a t h w a y s . o r g

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MOUNTAIN BIKING

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iles of single-track offer mountain bikers incredible options in both cross-country and downhill cycling in the Greater Snow King Area, on Teton Pass, and at the Jackson Hole and Grand Targhee mountain resorts. Leading the charge in the nascent mountain-bike era, the Bridger Teton National Forest, Friends of Pathways, and Teton Freedom Riders cooperated in the design and construction of the intricate trail systems on Teton Pass and the Cache/Game Creek area. They manned the trail crews, too, and labored alongside volunteers from a wide range of organizations, including the Boy Scouts of America. Teton Freedom Riders volunteers were instrumental in design and construction of the downhill-only trails on Teton Pass. Check out these invaluable organizations at friendsofpathways.org and tetonfreedomriders.org.

GREATER SNOW KING AREA

Visitors to Jackson can ride the Greater Snow King Area directly from their hotel. Or drive to the Cache Creek trailhead, where numerous single tracks veer off in every direction. Large maps at trailhead kiosks give bikers a bird’s-eye view of numerous single-tracks throughout Cache Creek, Game Creek, and Snow King Mountain. Riders can combine trails to create journeys that are short, long, or epic. Several possibilities make for day-long rides that cover dozens of miles, with big climbs and long winding descents.

A lot has changed since 1984

New separate-use trails from the Putt-Putt trailhead on Nelson Drive improve safety and enjoyment for walkers, horse riders, and mountain bikers. The new Skyline Trail was approved and the first mile was built from the top of Ferrin’s trail. Construction will continue through the summer to connect Skyline Trail with the Game Creek Trail at the Cache-Game divide. Plan accordingly. Free maps at friendsofpathways.org/resources, a local nonprofit advocacy group.

TETON VILLAGE

The Jackson Hole Bike Park in Teton Village is all the rage, and it’s designed to accommodate experts and novices alike. Ride up Teewinot chairlift with your bike and cruise down one of six different trails assigned difficulty ratings similar to those of ski trails. It was designed and built by Gravity Logic, one of the world’s premier mountain-bike park developers. Tabletop jumps allow novice riders to catch air and land safely. Banked-turn sections feel like a roller coaster ride. The flow and rhythm keep bikers coming back to the chairlift for another lap. The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort also maintains seven miles of single-track that traverse the lower mountain from Après Vous to the Hobacks. Rolling and winding with the ski terrain, this route was designed and built by year-round resort workers – skiers – and is a fun, short mountain bike tour. Expert cyclists might choose to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Continued next page

Mountain bikers love the area’s many miles of single-track, though a few seek out the old logging roads of bygone days.


Wade McKoy


Pick up a map from any employee.

GRAND TARGHEE

Over the past few years, Grand Targhee Resort has added over 20 miles to their mountain bike trails, which offer spectacular views of the surrounding area. And starting at 8,000 feet in elevation, it’s cool even on the hottest days. The Grand Targhee Loop is a 27-mile ride that winds through wildflower-strewn alpine meadows, forests of conifer and aspen, and high alpine terrain. The ride features grand views of the majestic Tetons, the greater Yellowstone region, and Teton Valley. Named an Epic Ride by the International Mountain Bicycling Association, it meets the criteria as a “demanding, single-track adventure in a natural setting, celebrating true backcountry riding ex-

periences that are technically and physically challenging.” Epic Rides must also be more than 80 percent single-track and at least 20 miles in overall length. Targhee also has a Mountain Bike Skills Park, located near the base of the Dreamcatcher lift, where cyclists of all levels can practice and improve their riding technique on a variety of routes and features. Pick up a map at the activity center.

and tech-y downhill-only trail. Cross-country cyclists also park at Phillips to ride the magnificent, high-alpine Arrow, Sno-Tel, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon trails. The trailhead at the top of the pass accesses loop possibilities with the Black Canyon trail, and Lithium – another downhillonly route. Or head west to Mail Cabin Creek or Idaho’s Mike Harris trailhead.

TETON PASS

Bikers must yield to all other users on forest trails. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up. No trail user should be deaf. Turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people coming…and the lions, moose, and bears that,

Cyclists can ride from downtown Wilson up the paved Old Pass Road (non-motorized vehicles only, 2,000-plus-foot climb) to the top of 8,416-foot Teton Pass. Downhill specialists often drive up the pass to the Phillips Canyon trailhead to access Jimmy’s Mom, a super fun

ETIQUETTE

Fireweed in full bloom decorate the burned lodgepole forests and the singletrack bike trail through it. Cyclist: Brendon Newton

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rest assured, are out there, too. Ride open trails only. Respect wilderness and national park closures and private property. Give wildlife a wide berth. When cycling on the paved pathway system, alert others (bells and an audible indicating which side— left or right—should be standard for cyclists) when approaching from behind and pass them respectfully and safely. Pedestrians have the right of way—and they too help fund the maintenance and existence of pathways! Happy trails! — Adventure Guide

Wade McKoy photo

Creek crossings are fun to ride when the water isn’t too deep. Cyclist: Jim Hager

Downhill mountain bikers ride specially designated trials on Teton Pass and at Grand Targhee. Cyclist: Kyle Dowman

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FISHING

Catching wild, native trout in majestic mountain surroundings

By Scott Sanchez

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That breathtaking image mirrored at your feet on the water’s surface pleasantly interrupted by the vibrant golden form of a cutthroat trout encircled in its rise form. Fly fishing in Jackson Hole is the captivating combination of catching wild, native Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat trout Snake River cutthroat in majestic mountain surroundings. These feeding habits at times make for less And a fine a catch it is! The indigenous sophisticated fishing, so an angler with basic Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat is gold in skills and a rudimentary fly selection has a color, peppered with small black spots, and good chance of fooling a fish. It might not alaccented by its signature crimson throat markways be a huge fish, but the opportunities to ings. Thanks in part to evolution and, additionally, through special regulations, habitat restoration projects, and the Snake River’s Wild and Scenic River Designation, this trout The indigenous Snake River dominates the Snake River drainage. fine-spotted cutthroat trout Snake River cutthroats average from six to twelve inches, but mature fish up to 18 inches is gold in color, peppered are not uncommon. My largest taped in at 27 with small black spots, inches. There are non-native fisheries that yield a larger average trout size, but none comand accented by its signature pare to Jackson’s oversized fishing expericrimson throat markings. ence, scenery, and tranquility. Regardless of their size, all wild native fish are trophies. Plying waters with dry flies is considered catch numerous cutts and refine your angling the essence of fly fishing. The intimate enskills are ample. Jackson Hole is one of the counter of trout and angler transcending their best places for a complete novice to land a worlds to meet at the water’s surface is magisizeable trout on a dry fly. In general our cal. From casting an inch-long Chernobyl into streams aren’t hatch-specific but offer fish a the current of the Snake to matching the hatch variety of insects to feed on. Consequently, for large selective cutts on Flat Creek, Jackson visible attractor patterns like Trudes, Stimulaoffers some of the best dry-fly fishing in the tors, Chernobyl Ants, and my Convertible fish world. Overall, Snake River cutts are aggresvery well. They don’t imitate anything exactly, sive surface feeders. This evolved survival trait but look like many of their foods. is needed to take advantage of a relatively The area around Jackson holds a variety of short summer season and finite food sources.

Photo courtesy Scott Smith / Grand Teton Flyfishing

he mesmerizing whisper of the river’s current. The graceful arc of a fly line as it travels through the air, silhouetted against a kaleidoscope of colorful wildflowers and vibrant green cottonwoods, framed by the purple/grey Tetons and deep azure sky.

waters to fish, and the gamut includes streams, high-mountain lakes, large valley lakes, mid-size rivers, and the sprawling majestic Snake River. Preference for adventure can be matched with options ranging from roadside angling to floating to day hikes to overnight backcountry adventures. Teton County is 97 percent Federal land, consisting mainly of Bridger Teton National Forest and Grand Teton National Park, so the options are almost unlimited. The anglers you are most likely to run into are eagles, ospreys, and herons. Deer, elk, bison and moose are frequent companions, and you just might spot a bighorn sheep, bear, or wolf. You can experience this on your own or with the assistance of a local guide. June is spring in Jackson and is fairly limited for stream fishing because most waters are swollen with snowmelt. During runoff midelevation lakes area a great option and are in beautiful surroundings. Bradley, Taggart, Bearpaw, Phelps, and Trapper lakes in Teton Park are easy hikes into fishable waters. Phelps has trophy-size cutthroats and lake trout, while the others hold a mix of moderatesize cutts and brook trout. Bear spray, though, is standard issue when backcountry fishing in Jackson Hole. You don’t need to be scared, Continued page 70

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Wade McKoy

Granite Creek holds many small native cutthroat. Fisherman: Scott Sanchez

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Wade McKoy

When fine-spotted cutthroat move on a big fly, they often take it with gusto.

Continued from page 68

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but you should be bear aware. Around the end of June, Snake tributaries like the Hoback, Greys, and Gros Ventre rivers start to clear. This coincides with the huge Salmonfly hatch on the Hoback, and good quantities of caddis and small stoneflies bring trout to the surface of all three rivers. All three drainages offer camping, hiking, backpacking, and cycling options and all have fishable tributaries and lakes. This combination of waters offers over a hundred public-accessible miles of fishing. The Gros Ventre is eight miles north of Jackson, the Hoback 13 miles south of town, and the Greys enters the Snake about 40 miles south of Jackson. Fishing will be good through mid September. The Snake River usually clears by the end of June and can provide good dry fly fishing through mid October. Because of the large stoneflies that hatch during the summer and the importance of terrestrials in the trout’s diet, we can fish very large dry flies that are eagerly eaten by the trout and easy for the novice or us old guys to see. Initially, just after the rivers clear, your catch will be mostly small trout, but as August progresses, larger trout will move out of the tributaries post spawn. The Snake’s size can be intimidating, but much of it is braided with channels and side channels of various sizes. This makes it easier to wade-fish some sections of the river, a bit like having a bunch of smaller streams. The best way to fish the Snake, though, is with a guide and from a drift

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boat. This affords the most access, and while you will fish from the boat, a good part of the day also can be spent wade-fishing areas that the non-boat angler can’t access. This is the best option for trout quality and quantity. September is prime season on the Snake River and I might call this a perfect place and perfect time. Trout feed on Hecuba, blue wing olive, and mahogany mayfly hatches as they fatten up for winter, and the fall colors against the deep blue sky are the icing on the cake. The larger cutts group up as they move towards winter habitat, and when you find them, you can spend considerable time casting to good-size rising fish. With about 90 miles of water between Jackson Lake Dam and the mouth of Palisades Reservoir and many public access points, you can find your own section of the Snake. The sunset reflection of the Tetons in the water as you release a trout back to its home is unbeatable, and the memory is an open invitation back to that spot and place in time. Scott Sanchez, the fly tying columnist for American Angler magazine, has contributed photos and articles to numerous fly fishing magazines in the U.S. and Japan. He has written three books: Introduction to Salt Water Fly Tying, A New Generation of Trout Flies, and A Never Ending Stream. The Federation of Fly Fishers awarded him the Arnold Gingrich Lifetime Achievement Award for literary accomplishments and the Buz Busek Fly Tying Award for contributions to the world of fly tying. Scott’s books can be found in area fly shops.


Scott Smith / Grand Teton Flyfishing

Magic On The Fly

The most sought-after fish species reside in Mother Nature’s finest waters, like the upper Snake River in Grand Teton National Park.

By Scott Smith Why “fly fishing” and not just “plain old fishing”? The answer may lie in the art itself, fly-fishing’s opportunity to connect with nature, or just a simple love of wonder. Traditional fishing, of course, requires plenty of craft and — without a doubt — demands a certain amount of finesse. Fly fishing, though, totally captivates its participants with an undeniable and unique delight: the flow of casting. Many of us became addicts for life, so strong is its pull. Catching fish became secondary, though it had been everything until we discovered fly fishing’s other joys: tying flies and leaders, casting, the drift — reading the water, finding the magic. Perhaps the most important aspects of fly fishing — where, when, and with whom — help create its magic. After all, the most sought-after species reside in Mother Na-

ture’s finest waters. And being surrounded by the great outdoors helps dispel the stress that life sometimes generates. Seasons for the fly angler can also create a wonderful mystique of promise: the promise of change, and another shot at the fish of a lifetime. Dedicated anglers might find themselves on an uncrowded stream in midwinter, reaping the benefits of a small window of opportunity, something unique to each season. Winter, spring, fall, summer, all influence the planet’s creatures, and that includes fish and fishers. Nature’s ever-changing conditions create an infinite number of possibilities. In my opinion, it’s the core of fly fishing. Game fish move as their food does, and an observant angler can learn to recognize these movements during the hunt.

GRANDTETONFLYFISHING.COM w w w. ye l l ows to n e a d ve n t u re g u i d e. co m

The fellowship of fly fishing is based on ethics, conservation, and love of the game. A day on the water can be one of complete silence and concentration, or filled with laughter and fine spirits — both very different yet completely satisfying. Getting started can be easy and need not be expensive. The basics include a rod and reel, a handful of flies, and fish water. Once you open the door to fly fishing, though, be prepared to immerse yourself in a lifelong journey that could take you much farther than your backyard. Perhaps into the realm of magic. Scott Smith, a fly fishing guide and managing owner of Grand Teton Fly Fishing, is stoked to live in Jackson Hole with his wife and two daughters.

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WATER, WATER, EVERYWHERE

Jump in. Swim. Captain a boat. Paddle. Sail.

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eton and Yellowstone country is blessed with water, and lots of it. Perfectly clear and startlingly cold, it cascades down the mountains as winter snows melt throughout spring, summer, and fall. It pools hunContinued next page

Wade McKoy

Phelps Lakeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s big-jump rock challenges swimmers to take the leap.


Bob Woodall

River runners power their way through a wild section of whitewater in the Snake River Canyon.

Continued from page 72

dreds-of-feet deep in lakes and reservoirs with mirror smoothness and, occasionally, in white-capped fury. Rivers of snowmelt braid the landscape, painting the scene in brushstrokes of riffles, rapids, and flat-water effervescence. Summer fun in mountain country should include an outing on the water. Choose a craft and get going on an unforgettable adventure.

SUP enthusiast Caroline Schou braves the open water of Leigh Lake.

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Wade McKoy

WHITEWATER FLOAT TRIPS The eight-mile whitewater stretch of the Snake River just below Jackson Hole may offer the finest one-day introduction to rapids in the country. And the folks at Sands Whitewater have been at it since the beginning. As you load up to begin your trip, something changes. You realize just how different a raft feels than the car youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been driving in. As you grip the paddle and peer out over the river, carrying the collective weight of a long winter, you understand why this is still considered an adventure. Time on the water is time well spent. Learn to enjoy that twinge in your gut as you round a bend and hear a roar like the sound of ocean waves breaking on the beach. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re


Photo coursesy O.A.R.S.

nervous – good, that’s the idea. There’s a golden moment, just as you enter the smooth, slick tongue of a big rapid, when time stands still and the world is quiet despite the surrounding chaos. Exuberance will soon replace anxiety after you’ve pounded through some beefy waves and come through upright and invigorated. These are the moments on a river trip that create memories you’ll take home with you. Book early, though, especially during those hot summer afternoons when everybody is looking for a splash in the face.

SCENIC FLOAT TRIPS

The scenic upper section of the Snake is much different than its whitewater counterpart. Sands Scenic Float trips knows this section extremely well. O.A.R.S. does too. The water is calmer, though still fast-moving, coursing through a network of side and main channels. The shoreline varies greatly along these sections of river, as dense forests of spruce and lodge pole pine give way to stands of cottonwoods and aspen, where beavers like to make their home. All the animal species of Jackson Hole use this river-bottom habitat at one time or another. Rafters frequently spy moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, eagle, osprey, duck, river otter, muskrat, and fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout. Occasionally a black or grizzly bear makes an appearance, sometimes even a wolf. Designated a National Wild and Scenic River, special sections of the Snake receive federal protection, including stretches running through Grand Teton National Park, the canyon, and

The upper Snake River flows through Grand Teton National Park, an often peaceful float trip.

confluences with a dozen tributaries. The sensitive regulations should help the ecosystem remain healthy and vibrant, ensuring that future generations may also enjoy this remarkable river. (Visit snakeriverfund.org.) — Tom Bie

SEA KAYAKING

Sea kayaking the alpine lakes of Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks promises an

EXCITING WHITEWATER • RELAXING SCENIC FLOATS COMBINATION TRIPS • OVERNIGHT ADVENTURES Whitewater & Scenic River Trips One block south of the Town Square

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unusual mix of tranquility and excitement. “You could go anywhere: Baja, Maine, the San Juan Islands, Alaska – our lake kayaking experiences are just as good,” said Aaron Pruzan of Rendezvous River Sports. Steve Markle of O.A.R.S. agreed, adding, “Our clients cherish a break from driving though the park.” Several trip options offer a big-alpine-lake

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Wade McKoy

Stand up paddle boarding the Snake River Canyon in early spring, before the river rises. SUP rider: Aaron Pruzan


Bob Woodall

River surfers gather to ride the Lunch Counter rapid in the Snake River Canyon.

experience to match any level of enthusiasm.

Jackson Lake, Grand Teton National Park With a stunning Teton backdrop, this 40square-mile reservoir has numerous put-ins to access a variety of day-trip options. O.A.R.S. client Amanda Arnoldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s posts typify clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; experiences: â&#x20AC;&#x153;To camp on an island right under

the Tetons was just wonderful! We loved traveling into the backcountry with guides who knew what they were doing. It was nice that everything was planned for us, where we would camp, what we would eat.â&#x20AC;?

Shoshone Lake, Yellowstone National Park Restricted to paddle craft only, the remote

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waters of Shoshone Lake ensure a singular peace and quiet. â&#x20AC;&#x153;There are no motorboats once you leave Lewis Lake,â&#x20AC;? said Pruzan. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The remoteness, the quiet, the hiking in Shoshone Geyser Basin â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sublime, subtle.â&#x20AC;? The three-day excursion launches from Lewis Lake boat ramp. Paddlers follow the



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Yellowstone Lake At 7,732 feet above sea level, Yellowstone Lake rests a thousand feet higher than Jackson Lake and claims three times the acreage. Its 136 square miles average 139 feet in depth, the deepest part of the lake plumbing over 390 feet. That adds up to a lot of pristine water. Yellowstone Lake is, in fact, the largest freshwater lake above 7,000 feet in North America. Half-day tours – Boaters can probe these waters safely along the shores of West Thumb on a short paddling excursion offered by O.A.R.S. “Getting out of the car for an active, three-hour guided kayaking tour is easy – and a real treat.” said Steve Markle. Backcountry Overnights – “We go along the south shore of West Thumb, through The Narrows, and around Breeze Point to a really nice campsite,” said Aaron Pruzan. “It’s a great one-night if people want to get in the backcountry a little ways. Not many power boats in that zone. In two days we can access Flat Mountain Arm. It’s really pretty, with amazing views of the Absaroka Range, the Trident Peaks, Stevenson and Doane.” A full circumnavigation of Yellowstone Lake’s roadless shoreline, from Sedge Creek Bay to West Thumb, takes five to seven days. The five-day version involves cutting across the imposing open water of the South Arm. A guide can help. The end of the Southeast Arm of Yellowstone Lake is about as far away from people as you can get in the Lower 48.

Photo courtesy O.A.R.S.

shoreline’s fields, forests, and hot pools to the inlet. After navigating a few miles of small river channel, boaters glide into Shoshone Lake.

STAND UP PADDLE BOARDING

Stand up paddle boarding, also called SUP, claimed its fame years ago as the fastest growing water sport in the world. It migrated into the Rocky Mountains from coastal cultures – notably, from its ancient Hawaiian roots. Here in mountain country, two distinct versions of SUP help enthusiasts ply the waters. River – The Snake River’s many and varied water features create a first-rate playground for stand-up paddle boarders. From its flat water and small riffles, eddies and waves, to its bigger and more powerful white water, the Snake delivers the goods to all levels of SUP recreationists. “All the sections of the Snake are awesome, from the dam to the Palisades,” said Aaron Pruzan, who, along with several fellow kayakers and skiers, pioneered SUP river use in Jackson Hole in 2008. Lake – Some SUP enthusiasts, like local skierturned-waterman Ward Blanch, prefer paddling on lakes. “For me,” said Blanch, “it’s all about long tours on Jackson Lake, going forever along the shore and out into the open water. You can cover some miles. And you get such a great, full-body workout.” Not to mention startling views into the water from the elevated perspective that SUP provides (wear polarized glasses and you’ll likely pick out some fish).

BOAT RENTAL & LESSONS

Rendezvous River Sports rents SUP gear and offers lessons on the Snake’s calmer stretches near Hoback Junction. A good mix of flat water, small waves, and eddies makes it the perfect outdoor classroom. — Adventure Guide

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Don’t Spread Aquatic Nuisance Species. Clean, inspect, and dry your equipment before launching. Racing across the wild natural resources of North America, an invasion of aquatic nuisance and invasive species is creating environmental destruction. Rapidly growing aquarium weeds thoughtlessly discarded into local waterways—as well as dozens of exotic shellfish, snail, and fish species that have arrived and have been poured mostly into the Great Lakes as foreign shipping ballast—are choking out native species. Recreationalists can unknowingly pick up and relocate everything from the tiny New Zealand mud snail, zebra and quagga mussels to strands of Eurasian milfoil, hydrilla and

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water hyacinth aquatic grasses and hundreds of other invasives. Western states are moving ahead quickly with programs in education, prevention, and legal prohibition dealing with these deadly aquatic nuisance species. Before launching any watercraft, clean, inspect, and dry equipment that is wet from previous trips. Scrub wading boots, Aqua Sox, and wader gear. Put watercraft, trailers, ropes, and anchors through approved hot-water power washes. For more info on Wyoming regulations: www. wgfd.wyo.gov — Paul Bruun


OVERNIGHT KAYAK TOURS ON JACKSON LAKE “I would trade a dozen nights in a 4-star hotel for one more night on Jackson Lake.”

Best way to see the Tetons and a great value! Mondays & Fridays, June - September 1 or 2 nights catered camping (tents provided) on an idyllic island camp All kayaking gear included Expert guides & delicious meals provided Ideal for all ages 4+ Limited to 12 people/trip!

Call us today! 800-346-6277 or visit OARS.com/wyoming Sea kayaks, designed to handle wind and waves, prove their mettle on the region’s large, high-altitude lakes.

Navajo & Hopi Students Float Grand Canyon. Other local kids near national parks benefit from 1% For Kids. Last summer O.A.R.S. and National Park Service educators took a group of Navajo and Hopi students on a four-day river trip down the lower section of the Grand Canyon, for free. For the kids, it was not only their first river trip, for many it was their first time sleeping under the stars or standing under a waterfall. The experience helped connect them to the Grand Canyon as Native Americans. O.A.R.S. is currently working with Glen Canyon NRA to provide a group of local high school-aged youth with a six-day Colorado River trip through Cataract Canyon in Canyonlands. In Grand Teton National Park, O.A.R.S.

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is organizing a couple of three-day sea kayaking and rafting trips around existing summercamp programs to engage Latino youth from the local community. It’s all part of O.A.R.S.’ three-year partnership with the National Park Foundation. And, for the 2016 National Park Centennial, the company is donating 1% of sales from national park trips to the NPF to help support programs like Open Outdoors for Kids. The company additionally set aside $95,000 in trips to directly benefit youth in the communities surrounding our national parks.

YELLOWSTONE LAKE KAYAK TOURS

1/2-Day Guided Kayaking & Natural History Tour

855-541-4793 Book online & save at OARS.com

— O.A.R.S.

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SHOOTING

Learn a pioneer skill from a pro

By Joseph Piccoli

“Sometimes our arriving shooters say they are ‘anti-gun’. Many of our guests touch a firearm for the very first time with us,” Shepard Humphries, co-owner of Jackson Hole Shooting Experience, said. “But because they’re with a group or because they’re ‘Out West’ they decide to try it anyway.” And, Humphries added, by the time they leave, many of those newbies eagerly anticipate their next trip to Jackson for more shooting fun. One reason for this, said co-owner Lynn Sherwood, is that the JH Shooting Experience’s expert coaches regard customers not as clients but as personal guests. The coaches also don’t consider the shotguns, rifles, and pistols guests use to be “weapons.” That might sound like spin, but Humphries knows weapons—he spent over 10 years in law enforcement, including time as a SWAT sniper. Instead, Humphries views the guns his guests use as the equivalent of skis, golf clubs, or fishing poles. They are, he said, the tackle of “Luxury Entertainment Shooting.” And the

Above: Lynn Sherwood, a competitive shooter, is co-owner and a senior lead instructor. Top: Obviously, the JH Shooting Experience ranks high on the list of “fun things to do in Jackson Hole.”

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Photos courtesy Jackson Hole Shooting Experience

I

f you don’t know anything about guns, or if you’re an avid shooting enthusiast, you should consider spending some time with the experts at Jackson Hole Shooting Experience during your vacation this year.


Jackson Hole Shooting Experience has a very large tackle box. “We have over 60 different types of guns and our selection is always growing,” Humphries said. From cowboy-action revolvers to semi-auto pistols, long range rifles to WWI battle rifles from around the world, modern sporting guns such as the AR-15 to the iconic “Tommy Gun”, and a selection of .50 caliber rifle and handguns to the fully-automatic machine guns - try your hand and have a blast! JH Shooting Experience’s most popular offering, the MultiGun Rifle & Pistol Experience, introduces guests to many of those guns in a single three-hour session. Safety is always paramount. Guests don eye and ear protection, get a safety briefing and learn or review the fundamentals of shooting, and enjoy hands-on instruction with their coach. “We customize each experience based on each shooter’s level of experience, the number of shooters in the party, and their goals and desires,” Sherwood explained. “Every Experience is different.” The JH Shooting Experience goal is to get all guests comfortable with firearms and what they can do with them. They start by shooting a variety of .22-caliber rimfire rifles and handguns, which have little recoil, are easy on the body, and are Proper equipment and instruction is essential at any age. thus are a good introduction to shooting. Guests then move on to larger-caliber guns, including semiReservations are required for all JH Shooting Experience programs. auto pistols, and an assortment of historic and modern rifles. These can For more information, visit ShootInJH.com or HighCaliberWomen.com, vary widely, from a classic Marlin Lever-Action .357, a gun that a Jackor call 307-690-7921. son Hole cowhand of old might have carried, to the infamous AK-47— probably the most recognizable gun on the planet—and several rifles Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole. capable hitting targets 600 yards away! In addition, the Shotgun Clays Experience introduces shooters to the thrill of shotgun sports. The Archery Experience leaves gunpowder out of the equation, but gives guests a chance to shoot—and throw—a variety of tools, from classic recurve and modern compound bows, to blowguns, tomahawks and throwing knives. And if you’ve taken a firearms activity with JH Shooting Experience before, you can hone in on your defensive pistol and carbine skills on a dynamic interactive course, or practice your longrange rifle skills or pre-hunt mindset. With more and more women interested in the shooting sports and personal (:?7>?:6>=5;:29;><= protection training, Sherwood )2'2: 6?=;?:;+>=7?=; launched “High Caliber 58<<;>=*6?'(?:>?=9?5 Women™” last year. Sherwood now leads community courses, corporate group events, and bachelorette parties in private gun-safety sesOver 60 different types of guns sions, defensive skill-building, and personal protection courses in Jackson and around the country. One thing you can’t get at the Jackson Hole Shooting Experience is a single gun and a couple of boxes of ammunition. “Some people ask us why they can’t just come out and shoot for half an hour,” Humphries said. “What we specialize in are private, personalized interactions. We are proud to be known for quality. We can’t maintain good student/instructor ratios and keep a large selection of guns on hand for safe use if we just rent guns and sell boxes of ammo.” 58<<;>=%8,9<7 This philosophy seems to be working. The TripAdvisor travel web8>*89+)>&?: <7?=,9<7 site currently ranks the JH Shooting Experience near the top on its list .-13$0-310/!6!6444304.3/#1" of 86 “fun things to do in Jackson Hole.” Of over 1,500 shooters last year, none of the 228 posted reviewers rate the Shooting Experience lower than “excellent”.

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HORSEBACK RIDING

Western family fun

A young buckaroo rides high in the saddle.

H

Photos: Bob Woodall Triangle C Ranch

owdy pardner, welcome to The West! It’s not just a direction on the compass, mind you, but a place steeped in history and cowboy lore. Images of it flow into your mind like a flash flood in a Western movie. Wagon trains stretched across the high plains, John Wayne hunting down the bad guys, and the cowboy astride his horse riding into the sunset. Well, here you are in the West, so why not connect with the lore of the past by throwing your leg over the back of a trusty steed and heading for the hills. “You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and physical limitations can be overcome,” the late Cameron Garnick, of the Triangle C Dude Ranch, once pointed out. “Traveling at 45 miles an hour, horses can cover lots of territory and you can see much more because you are not having to watch the trail.” In a short time riders can be deep into the mountains and “you’re doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain men, and cowboys,” Garnick continued.

Traveling at the speed of horse, the way of the Old West.

TRAIL RIDES

Even if loping off into the horizon was not on your agenda, finding a horse to ride couldn’t be easier. No matter where one travels in the West, trail rides are available. They range from one-hour ride to full-day rides. For the ultimate trail ride, sign on for an overnight or multi-day pack trip. “It is good Western family fun,” said Laura Child of the A-OK Corral and Willow Creek Outfitters. “Jackson Hole is known for its cowboy and mountain man heritage and that is the way they saw it, so by going on a horseback ride you can step back in time and see it like they would have.

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“We have unique trail rides for groups up to eight and are able to customize rides and pack trips to fit your desires,” she continued. All of this outfit’s rides make a full loop and don't take the same trail out and back. Riders, then, are constantly taking in new scenery and views of the forest and wilderness, with some of the rides climbing to over 8,000 feet. Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” said Chad Madsen of Teton Village Trail Rides. “Seventy-five percent of our riders have never been on a horse. It’s fun to take inexperienced people and see the big smiles

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A wagon ride is a fun activity to experience during a Western vacation.

on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride. The thrill of just being on the back of a horse,” he added, “is part of the Western adventure that people are after.” Madsen’s outfit offers one- two- and four-hour rides right out of Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

DRESS THE PART

Now that you’re going to hit the trail, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items will make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are best, although any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals are not recommended. Long pants and a hat are advisable, and because the weather can change rapidly here in the real West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, camera, and binoculars. Next, decide how much time you really have for spending in the saddle. Like most outfitters, the A-OK Corral, Willow Creek, and Teton Village Trail Rides, offer a variety of options, ranging from one hour to all-day rides. If that’s not enough, Willow Creek and A-OK Corral feature overnight and three-day pack trips, as well as fishing trips in the Gros Ventre

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and Snake River ranges.

DUDE RANCH VACATION

If a couple days in the saddle have not reined in your desire for an Old West vacation, consider the ultimate cowboy-up experience: a full week at a dude ranch. In the 1880s the term “dude” was applied to dressed-up city slickers, especially to Easterners vacationing in the West and who affected elaborate “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a “dude ranch.” Some places call themselves “guest” ranches nowadays, but seek out ones that have not dropped the “dude” from their name. Those will be the ranches offering the most authentic experience. A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the romance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting offering a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos. Ranches tailor their weeks for singles, couples, families, and groups. You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, so take advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a whole week. Saddle up – and happy trails to you! — Adventure Guide

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Bob Woodall

MOTORCYCLE TOURING Riding the high country

By Bob Woodall

E

very summer, millions of visitors explore the Greater Yellowstone region. Many of them are touring in compact SUVs or large RVs. Some lucky travelers, though, navigate the very same byways never once feeling trapped, hemmed in, or shielded from the great outdoors. Those lucky few are astride motorcycles. Motorcycles are a great way to tour the dramatic highways and byways in Northwest Wyoming. From Grand Prix-like switchbacks over high mountain passes to rolling hills through farmlands, the jagged Tetons looming on the horizon, regional routes traverse post-card perfect scenery, some of it braided with crystal clear rivers and punctuated by waterfalls, hot springs, and spouting geysers. The options are daunting, so a visit to the local motorcycle shop can help find the right course. In Jackson Hole, Chester’s Jackson Hole Harley-Davidson is just off the main drag through town. The shop also offers information on local poker runs and biking events. While many rides through the parks may seem obvious, a few are not-tobe-missed and a couple are gems, albeit a bit out of the way.

Beartooth Pass, straddling the Wyoming/Montana border, is one of America’s premier rides.

Beartooth Highway Without a doubt, the All-American Beartooth Highway tops most every list of best drives, not only in this region but also in all of the U.S. It was voted the best motorcycle road in the United States by the American Motorcycle Association. The inspiring rugged alpine highway offers panoramic views of snow-covered mountains, granite peaks, and glacier lakes. Topping out at 10,977 feet, this road has it all: 67 miles of switchbacks, elevation changes, and spectacular scenery. “This road is an experienced biker’s dream,” said Chris Pooser, a Jackson Hole realtor. “It is one of the nation’s curviest and most challenging roads.” The Beartooth’s high alpine climate ensures that severe weather conditions can occur al-

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most any month the highway is open. Normally cleared of snow by Memorial Day, the route can temporarily close due to weather at any time before closing for winter in late fall. Summertime temperatures range from the 70s on sunny days to below freezing during sudden snowstorms. So check the weather—and the gear—before heading over. Reach the Beartooth via the Northeast Gate of Yellowstone National Park through Cooke City, Montana, via highway 212 or south from Red Lodge, Montana.

Chief Joseph Scenic Byway By far, though, the best access to the Beartooth is from the south. Ride north from Cody, Wyoming, on state highway 120 for about 20 miles. Turn left (west) on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, state 296, and head up

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the little-traveled road. The route ascends historic Dead Indian Hill, along the path trod in the late 1870s by Nez Perce Chief Joseph and his people as they made for Canada, the U.S. Army hot on their trail. The highway switchbacks often as it climbs and descends the pass. At Sunlight Creek, Wyoming’s highest bridge spans a 1,200-foot chasm. Well worth stopping here to peer into its depths and take a groupie. Follow the wide-open road till it junctions with the Beartooth Highway, turn right and head up the pass or left to Yellowstone National Park.

Island Park- Mesa Falls- Teton Scenic Byway This tour is best traversed from West Yellowstone to Jackson, the views of the Teton Range coming into focus as you head south


from Montana to Idaho and then into Wyoming. Riding north to the south allows for the best views—all without having to look back over your shoulder. Head south from West Yellowstone on highway 20. There are plenty of fishing ops along the way. Just south of Island Park, Idaho, turn left onto the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway. “A refreshing stop is the lower Mesa Falls and visitor center,” said Pooser, an experienced Jackson rider. “The falls and the canyon surrounding the river below are unbelievably beautiful. The mist that rises and waters the lush green plants and moss reaches the top and refreshes the observers.” Often, a full rainbow spans the 114-foot Upper Falls. At Ashton, Idaho, turn south onto the Teton Scenic Byway as you make your way to Jackson Hole. Wide-open highway 32 negotiates rolling hills through eastern Idaho farmlands. As the road snakes to the south, the Grand Teton Range continues to rise higher and higher on the horizon, slowly (sometimes quickly) dominating the view with their splendor. At the south end of the byway are the Teton Valley towns of Driggs and Victor. These small communities offer plenty of dining and shopping options. Or just keep riding and head over Teton Pass and on to Jackson.

Pinedale- Elkhart Park An easily overlooked ride is the dramatic Skyline Drive just outside of Pinedale, Wyoming. The 34-mile round trip starts in downtown Pinedale. At the first hillcrest, 11mile long Fremont Lake comes into view. In just 15 miles the roadway tops out at Elkhart Park. Fremont Lake now lies 2,000 thousand

feet below. To the northeast are views into the heart of the Wind River Range. Wyoming’s third-highest summit, Fremont Peak, sits at 13,745 feet. “This ride is a unique and hidden gem,” said local biker Steve Reecer. “For incredible views, pull over two miles before Elkhart Park at the end of Skyline Drive. Enjoy the spectacular expanse of the Wind River Range and Fremont Lake.”

The Weather Always a factor for bikers, weather becomes a major consideration in the mountains. Never head out on a ride without foul-weather gear, no matter the forecast or how beautiful the day promises to be. Mountain weather does not answer to the weatherman and storms can develop rapidly. Cold temperatures, even snow, can occur anytime during summer. Consider the unseen weather lurking behind the mountains and know that lightning frequently precedes any rainfall, especially at these high altitudes. Checking in with the National Weather Service can yield insight into the potential for inclement conditions. www.weather.gov/riw/

Wildlife Wildlife draws most visitors here. So watch for it—and watch out for it! The 45-mph speed limit inside the parks is for their safety and yours. Motorcyclists should be extremely cautious. Bison pose a more serious risk for bikers than for car or RV drivers. The big boys can top 2,000 pounds. They are commonly encountered on park roads, and “buffalo jams” are a frequent occurrence.

“Always look ahead,” advised Reecer. “If there is a pileup of cars or vehicles and animals on the roadway ahead, pull over and wait for the traffic to disperse. And then continue your ride. “On my first visit to Hayden Valley, I saw a group of vehicles ahead blocking traffic. It was too distant to see any animals and I kept going. I was soon surrounded by bison and had a stare-down with one.” Park rules require visitors to keep their distance from large wildlife—25 yards at least. Rangers tend to be sticklers for this rule. Keep your distance: bison are very agile and can move at 35 mph.

Night Travel Motorcyclists should wear brightly colored or reflective clothing to make themselves more visible to cars and RVs. Animals frequently cross roads at night, so drive slowly. On highway 89 through Grand Teton Park, the nighttime speed limit lowers to 45 mph. “Deer alarms” can also be effective. Animals can hear a high-pitched whistle and are alerted. Keep in mind that alarms don’t work in rain, crosswinds, or while driving slowly.

Bear Spray-Bug Spray You’re in bear country! Recommended for hikers, bear spray could also be very useful for bikers exposed to the wilds of the open road. Keep it handy and know how to use it! This is also mosquito country. So carry a bottle of repellant, even for a brief lakeside stop. Swarms of these pests are undaunted by bikes or bikers. — Additional reporting by Debra Snyder

Harley - Davidson CLOTHING GIFTS & GEAR CORNER OF BROADWAY & MILLWARD 40 S. MILLWARD ST. JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

307.739.1500

Off-street bike parking on Millward w w w. ye l l ows to n e a d ve n t u re g u i d e. co m

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Jackson Hole Restaurant Guide

Jackson Hole sports a raft of summer

adventure opportunities, so it better have a way to fuel the very bodies enjoying some of nature’s most dazzling features.

Take-Out, Delivery

Family Friendly

Organic Local

Blue Lion 307-733-3912

R

D

Y

TO

CH

S

87

The Bunnery 307-733-5474

N

BL

B/W

TO

Yes

87

Piste Mountain Bistro Bridger Gondola @ JH Mountain Resort 739-2675

N

D

Y

PP

Yes

47

Häagen-Dazs 307-739-1880

N

LD

N

TO

87

Hayden’s Post 307-734-3187 at the Snow King Resort

SG

BLD

Y

TO

23

JH Buffalo Meat Co 307-733-4159 800-543-6328

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Jackson Hole Playhouse 307-733-6994 Saddle Rock Saloon & Big Buckin’Burgers

R N

D L

BYO BYO

TO

Yes Yes

29

McDonald’s 307-733-7444

N

BLD

N

TO

Yes

47

Pinky G’s Pizzeria 307-734-PINK (7465)

N

LD

Y

TO DL-CT

Yes

23

Snake River Brewing Company and Restaurant 307-739-BEER

N

LD

B/W

Yes

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Stiegler’s Austrian Restaurant 307-733-1071

R

D

Y

TO

Key 86

Restaurant

Sustainable

Bar Service

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Page

Outdoor Seating

Meals Served

The Jackson Hole Dining Guide is a colleciton menus from more than 60 Jackson Hole restaurants. The 82-page guide is available at all lodging facilities, visitor information centers, and many retail outlets or go online at jhdiningguide.com. Gracing the cover Savanna Garnick presents a buffalo filet mignon from the Jackson Hole Buffalo Meat Company, prepared by her mother Vicki.

Reservations

Diverse appetites and a range of pocketbooks, among visitors and locals alike, demand an equally expansive menu of gustatory stimulation. Herewith, a dozen dining delights as colorful as Jackson Hole flora and fauna. Some are already noted for their coveted dining awards, others are ready to make their mark. But there’s no pretense among these outlets. Whether nestled in the heart of downtown, along a stunning valley byway, or perched atop one the most spectacular vantage points anywhere, these eateries promise to complement the Jackson Hole experience. From artisan hot dogs to international cuisine, at ground level or the summit of the slopes; whether indoors, al fresco, or at a classic chuckwagon, Jackson Hole serves up a heady meal of culinary creations to nurture body and spirit. Something like a World Café in the country’s most international small town gathering spot.

Type of Food, Specialty

Y

Eclectic American, Steak, Pasta, Lamb, Seafood, Game, Vegetarian

Y

Fresh Baked Goods,Omelettes, Soups, Sandwiches, Starbucks Coffee

OL S

Y

Casual Shared Plates & Cocktails Outdoors at top of Gondola, Breathtaking Mountain Views

Yes

N

N

Ice Cream, Espresso, Sorbet, All Natural Gluten Free

Yes

L S

Y

Inspired Campfire Cusine Modern-day tastes with the Favors of the West, Local Meats

TO

Retail & Mail Order, Natural & Sustainable Buffalo & Elk Meat

LS N N

Dinner & Theater, Gourmet Western Cuisine Burgers, Sandwiches, Hot Dogs, Sasparilla

Y

Freshly Prepared Breakfasts And Regular Menu Favorites

SL

Y

Pizza by-the-Slice or Whole Pie, Counter Service, Live Music, Full Bar, OPEN LATE

Yes

L S

Y

Wood Fired Pizza, Pastas, Burgers, Local Meats Sandwiches, Soups & Salads

LS

Y

Austrian Continental, Classic Continental, Fine Dining

LS LS

Reservations: R-Recommended; AC-Accepted;Y-Yes; N-No; OT-Opentable.com; Bar Service: Y-Beer, Wine, Cocktails; B/W-Beer/Wine only; Take-out, Delivery: TO-Take-out; DL-Delivery; CT-Catering; PP-Private Parties Outdor seating: Y-yes; ; Healthy Options: O-Organic/Natural, L-Locally Sourced, S-Sustainable;

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THE BLUE LION RESTAURANT

160 North Millward St. | Jackson 307.733.3912 bluelionrestaurant.com

THE BUNNERY BAKERY & RESTAURANT

HAYDEN’S POST RESTAURANT & BAR

Famous not only for our wonderful baked goods, but for Jackson's most delicious breakfast with a roster of classic and southwest omelettes and eggs, whole grain waffles and p a n cakes, and the freshest juice this side of the orchard. We proudly brew Starbucks Coffee. Just 1/2 block north of the Town Square.

Inspired by its surroundings and local traditions, Hayden’ s Post offers a sophisticated, yet approachable, menu of Mountain West regional cuisine. The rustic atmosphere, with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, makes Hayden’ s Post the perfect location for an intimate dinner or a celebration with family and friends.

130 North Cache | Jackson 307.733.5474 bunnery.com

Snow King Resort | Jackson 307.734.3187 www.haydenspost.com

STIEGLER’S RESTAURANT & COPPER BAR

For a unique and memorable evening come to dinner at Stiegler's. For 32 years, host and chef Peter Stiegler has served guests authentic Austrian specialties from his homeland, as well as classic Continental entrees. You’ ll enjoy great food, attentive service and the charming ambiance of a Tyrolean home. Bar and Sundeck open at 5pm – Dining Room opens at 5:30pm Tuesday–Sunday. At the Aspens | Teton Village Road 307.733.1071 www.stieglersrestaurant.com

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Jackson Hole Lodging Guide Hostel

Grand Targhee Resort

Enjoy a comfortable & affordable stay in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We have private rooms & beds in shared bunkrooms; both with a private bathroom. WiFi and organic coffee service included. High season: $99–$129; Low season: $49–$89 Bunk room: $20–45

Lodging options with Grand Targhee Resort include hotels, townhomes, cabins, and lodges located at the base of the resort or near the towns of Alta, Driggs, and Victor. Enjoy convenient access to summer’s adventures including mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, fly fishing and much more. Alta, Wyoming 83414 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300 www.GrandTarghee.com

Box 583, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415 www.thehostel.us, info@thehostel.us

Jackson Hole Super 8

Pinedale, Wyoming

Jackson, Wyoming

• •

• • • •

• • • •

• •

Suites

• •

Internet Access

Meeting Room

Microwave Refrigerator

Smoke Free

• •

Pet Friendly

Handicap Accessible

Fitness Ctr Spa

Breakfast Included

Pinedale, Wyoming 82941 www.visitpinedale.org

Hot Tub Sauna

$$-$$$ $ $-$$ $-$$

In route to Jackson, Grand Teton National Park, and Yellowstone on Wyoming Centennial Scenic Byway...It’s a must for adventurers who want to experience the Wind River Mountains and Fremont Lake. Discover, explore, stay and play in Pinedale, Wyoming...it's all the civilization you need.

Swimming Pool

Grand Targhee Resort Hostel Jackson Hole Super 8 Visit Pinedale, Wyoming

Restaurant Bar

LODGING FACILITY

Rates

Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city bus, river rafting, and other recreation. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator,cable TV with HBO and free local calls. Custom packages & group rates. 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833 www.jacksonholesuper8.com jacksonholesuper8@wyom.net

Fireplace In Room

S

Based on Double Occupancy:($) Cost Per Night up to $100; ($$) Cost Per Night up to $250; ($$$) Cost Per Night over $250

ART – JEWELRY GIFTS – PHOTOGRAPHY DD Camera Corral – 21 Dan Shelley Jewelers – 13 Hines Goldsmiths – 22 Jackson Hole Resort Store – 23 Wild By Nature Gallery – 102 KIDS SHOPS Teton Toys – 20 LODGING Jackson Hole Super 8 – 4

RECREATION-FISHING-RIVER TRIPS Alpine Slide & Roller Coaster – 28 Grand Teton Flyfishing –15 JH Mountain Guides – 1 Rendezvous River Sports – 6 Sands Whitewater – 3 & 18 Snow King Scenic Chairlift – 27 Snow King Mini-Golf – 28

SPORTS SHOPS & APPAREL Chester’s JH Harley Davidson – 16 Jackson Hole Resort Store – 23

RESTAURANTS – CAFÉS Blue Lion Restaurant – 8 The Bunnery – 14 Häagen–Dazs – 24 Hayden’s Post Restaurant – 29 JH Buffalo Meat Company – 1 JH Playhouse & Saddle Rock Saloon – 9 McDonald’s of Jackson Hole – 5 Pinky G’s Pizzeria – 19 Snake River Brewery & Restaurant – 17 MEDICAL SERVICES St. John’s Family Health & Urgent Care – 2 St. John’s Medical Center – 26 Teton Orthopaedics – 25

TO: MEAD RANCH

88

G R A N D T E TO N & YE L LO W S TO N E A D V E N T U R E G U I D E 2 0 1 6


Bob Woodall

OF ADVERTISERS IndexINDEX of Advertisers

ALPINE SLIDE, ALPINE ROLLER COASTER, BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE, DISK GOLF, MINI-GOLF

HORSEBACK RIDING & PACK TRIPS

TETON VILLAGE 307-733-2292 pg 92 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY 307-733-5459 pg 63

A-OK CORRAL 307-733-6556 pg 83 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

PARAGLIDING

CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 800-390-2639 pg 49

JH PARAGLIDING 307-739-2626 pg 92

COWBOY COASTER-SNOW KING MOUNTAIN 307-201-KING pg 45

TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES 307-733-2674 pg 83

SNOW KING MOUNTAIN 307-201-KING pg 45

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT DISK GOLF 1-800-TARGHEE pg 27

TRIANGLE C RANCH 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 pg 88

PHOTOGRAPHY & CAMERAS

JACKSON HOLE BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE 307-739-2654 pg 92

WILLOW CREEK HORSEBACK RIDES 307-733-7086 pg 83

JACKSON HOLE AERIAL ADVENTURE COURSE pg 92

JEWELRY

JACKSON, WYOMING DD CAMERA CORRAL 307-733-3831 pg 91

TETON VILLAGE 10-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF 307-739-2687 pg 92

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

SNOW KING MOUNTAIN 307-201-KING pg 45 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN MINI-GOLF 307-201-KING pg 45

DANSHELLEY JEWELERS 307-733-2259 pg 3

APPAREL & GIFTS

HINES GOLDSMITHS 307-733-5599 pg 21

JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT 307-733-4159 pg 23

GRAND TARGHEE pg 44

JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE 307-739-2654 pg 92

TETON TOYS 307-200-6066 pg 47

LODGING

WILD BY NATURE GALLERY 307-733-8877 pg 17

BIKING, CAMPING, FISHING, HIKING PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 800-390-2639 pg 49 FRIENDS OF PATHWAYS 307-733-4534 pg 63 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 800-TARGHEE pg 44 GRAND TETON FLY FISHING 307-690-0910 pg 71 JACKSON HOLE’S GENERAL STORE 307-732-4090 pg 92 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS 307-739-2687 pg 92 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS 307-733-2471 pg 77

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING

KIDS STORE

JACKSON HOLE SPORTS 307-739-2687 pg 92 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS307-732-4058 pg 92

JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING BLUE LION RESTAURANT 307-733-3912 pg 87

CODY, WYOMING CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 800-390-2639 pg 49

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44 & 88

JACKSON, WYOMING SUPER 8 800-800-8000/307-733-6833 pg 88

PINEDALE, WYOMING VISIT PINEDALE VisitPinedale.com pg 88

TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING HOSTEL 307-733-3415 pg 88

TRIANGLE C RANCH 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 pg 88

JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING 800-443-8613 pg 92

BOATING, SCENIC & WHITEWATER CODY, WYOMING PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 1-800-390-2639 pg 49

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE KAYAK SCHOOL 307-733-2471 pg 77 O.A.R.S. 800-346-6277 pg 79 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS 307-733-2471 pg 77 SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS 800-358-8184 pg 75

CHAIRLIFTS, TRAM, GONDOLA GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44 JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM 307-739-2654 pg 92 JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA 307-739-2654 pg 92 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN 307-201-KING pg 45

CLIMBING GUIDES & CLIMBING WALLS GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES 307-733-4979 pg 59

BUNNERY RESTAURANT 307-733-5474 pg 87 COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT 307-739-2675 pg 87 PISTE MOUNTAIN BISTRO 307-739-2654 pg 87 HÄAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM 307-739-1880 pg 47 HAYDEN’S POST RESTAURANT & BAR 307-734-3187 pg 87 JH BUFFALO MEAT 800-543-6328 / 733-4159 pg 23 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE pg 86 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT pg 92 McDONALD’S® OF JACKSON HOLE 307-733-7444 pg 29 MEAD RANCH NATURAL BEEF 307-733-3911 pg 27 PINKY G’S PIZZERIA 307-734-PINK (7465) pg 47

SNOW KING MOUNTAIN 307-201-KING pg 45 WESTBANK ANGLERS 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 70

WILD BY NATURE GALLERY 307-733-8877 pg 17

RESTAURANTS, BARS & LIQUOR STORES

WIND RIVER VALLEY, WYOMING

SADDLE ROCK SALOON 307-733-6994 pg 87 STIEGLER’S RESTAURANT & BAR 307-733- 1071 pg 87 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT 307-739-BEER pg 23

TRIANGLE C DUDE RANCH 800-661-4928 pg 88

WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS 307-733-5038 pg 47

MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CARE

RODEO

ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE 307-739-8999 pg 33 ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT 307-733-3636 pg 2 ST. JOHN’S MEDICAL CENTER 307-739-6199 pg 2

CODY NITE RODEO 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 51

SHOOTING

TETON ORTHOPAEDICS 307-733-3900 PG 35

JACKSON HOLE SHOOTING EXPERIENCE 307-690-7921 pg 81

MOTOR CYCLE SHOP

VISITOR CENTERS & MUSEUMS

CHESTER’S JACKSON 307-739-1500 pg 85

HOLE

HARLEY-DAVIDSON

MUSIC, ENTERTAINMENT, WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS & PARTIES CODY, WYOMING PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 1-800-390-2639 pg 49

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS pg 44

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

JH MOUNTAIN RESORT CLIMBING WALL 307-739-2654 pg 92

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT 307-733-2292 pg 92

SNOW KING TETON BOULDER PARK 307-201-KING pg 45

JACKSON HOLE PLAYHOUSE 307-733-6994 pg 87

CO DY, WYO M I N G BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER 307-727-6076 pg 51

D U BO I S, WYO M I N G NATIONAL BIGHORN 307-455-3429 pg 29

SHEEP

INTERPRETIVE

CENTER

WILDLIFE SAFARIS & TOURS J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G ECOTOUR ADVENTURES 307-690-9533 pg 9 GRIZZLY COUNTRY WILDLIFE ADVENTURES 307-413-4389 pg 11 WILD BY NATURE PHOTO TOURS 307-733-8877 pg 17 YELLOWSTONE DAY TOURS 307-201-1499 pg 15

MEAD RANCH 307-733-3911 pg 27

w w w. ye l l ows to n e a d ve n t u re g u i d e. co m

2 0 1 6 G R A N D T E TO N & YE L LO W S TO N E A D V E N T U R E G U I D E

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DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER • GROS VENTRE • TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL • PAHASKA • BUFFALO BILL • SHOSHONE • NEZ PERCE • HOBACK • BRIDGER

• MADISON • MORAN • FIREHOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA • WAPITI VALLEY

• CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE •

SNOW KING • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY • G R A N D T E TO N & YE L LO W S TO N E A D V E N T U R E G U I D E 2 0 1 6 w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m G R A N D T E TO N & YE L LO W S TO N E A D V E N T U R E G U I D E 2 0 21 05 1 5 G R A N D T E TO N & YE L LO W S TO N E A D V E N T U R E G U I D E

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