FM f a l l 2 0 1 0 vo l u m e 1
are you doing your part in the handmade world? need to know how to start looking for the perfect suit?
welcome to the issue
I am very thrilled to announce the first issue of FM, Georgia Southern’s very own fashion magazine, created by the wonderful student organization, Fashion Menagerie. The start of the magazine was a little rocky but it was completed thanks to the many people that helped! There were so many people who were excited to assist in the creation of this magazine. It wouldn’t exist without everyone’s dedication and hard work. Thank you. These days, everyone is running short in the cash department. You’ll be pleased to find great ways to save money and keep up with the latest trends. In this issue alone, you’ll also find guide to buying suits (Not just for men!), a creative writing piece, and even a segment on the fashion history. We’ve also included exclusive interviews with some creative people who sell their works on www.etsy.com. And what about that unforgettable photo shoot that we had a blast creating? There are some great vintage pieces that are easy to recreate with some time at Goodwill (the power of thrift stores is unquestionable). Much of the jewelry you’ll see came from this issue’s Muse, so be sure to check out our interview. This is just the first issue of many to come! Be sure to look for our winter issue that will be available near the beginning of next semester. For the latest updates, be sure to check out Fashion Menagerie’s Facebook page!
mission statement We at FM Magazine believe that every person needs inspiration. As both students and peers, we should always strive to inspire each other. We will work hard to provide inspirational pieces from your peers, as well as the world. FM Magazine is committed to showcasing the latest and greatest work from Georgia Southern University’s very own Fashion majors. We will provide the season’s latest trends so that you’ll look your best all the time.
Special thanks to The University Store and 67 Styles for their help!
contributors Editor: Melissa Price Assistant Editor: Alexis Sampson Creative Director: Victoria Hughes Fashion Director: Jane Smith Lead Stylist: Jewel Williams Model Coordinator: Shamika White Writers: Neeka Burns, James Daniel, Victoria Hughes, Chloe Kaszans, and Johnathon Sanford Trend Researchers: Jewel Williams Cover Model: Hasna Taqi Models: Antonese Wilson, Neeka Burns, Rachel Wakefield, Hasna Taqi, Jonathon Grant, Michael Hyatt, Jane Smith, Jewel Williams, Kristina Verner, Jasmine Wilkson, NaShaya McKethan Stylists: 67 Styles, Rachel Wakefield, Chelsie Scott, Jewel Williams, Nicole Simmons, Pamela de la Rosa, Porsha Ellis Photography: Jane Smith and Melissa Price
FM f a l l 2 0 1 0 vo l u m e 1
6 leonardo da vinci costume 8 itâ€™s a handmade world 12 suit 101: purchasing a suit 14 10 tips for wise shoppers 16 an underground affair 22 FMâ€™s muse: victoria hughes 24 kitties in kouture & FM calender events
FM looks for less
L eonar d o d a Vi nc i,
R osso Fi oren ti no
anD costume design
Around his twenties, Leonardo da Vinci wore pink because he felt this color suited him best. He started fashions by designing costumes for masques and women of nobility who could choose to be the models in his fashion parades. He was a master in the trade of millinery and designed many hats. Da Vinci was allowed to stage the wedding of Ludovico Sforza and Beatrice d’Este, the duke and duchess of Milan, Italy. Da Vinci designed and drew frescoes displaying Ludovico’s father, Francesco, in victories in battle and on a horse, and began the practice of the famous equestrian statue. The three day celebration was da Vinci’s construction, design and organization. The night carnivals, plays and charades were all costumed and created by him and his assistants. With his engineering abilities he created stage illusions for the plays as well as special effects. His designs for costumes of masqueraders, shows typical early 16th century dress with flare. Knowing what people wore in this time will help to describe the costume da Vinci designed. Typically, men wore a shirt, tunic or a doublet, along with a tight fitted buttoned up jacket with a mandarin collar. This was usually embroidered or edged in gold, red or black silk. Slashing was still popular since the early 15th century and stayed popular until the middle 17th century. Slashings are cuts
in the fabric, usually at the shoulder, to reveal the contrasting shirt underneath. The name comes from the Swiss soldiers repairing their uniforms with scraps of different fabrics. Leonardo’s costume designs were drawn with great detail to the clothing. This masquerader has puffed sleeves and ribbon or fringe at the bottom (Fig 1). The sleeves and could either have been patterned or be transparent, like netting. There is an apron-like tunic over his shirt and drapery tied by a belt which held a sword. The man rides a horse and wears a Robin Hood style hat, possibly a version of the Tyrolean hat with a longer front and higher back brim. Feathers have been put in his hat for decoration. Around the same time period, Rosso Fiorentino was creating designs for theater and masquerades as well. King Francis I also housed Fiorentino until his death. The Three Fates, Costume Designs is thought to have been made during the early works on the Gallery of Francis I. The image is backwards as it is an engraving and is a reverse of the lost original image (Fig 2). The costumes are of Grecian mythology, but barely hold any recognition of classicalism. The three fates decide one’s destiny and have different roles. Clotho, the youngest of the three, depicted spinning the yarn of life in her hands, has a costume that could be modern. The costume has over
puffed sleeves tied down by armlets and thick fabric that covers her front with fabric puffing out in the sides or wherever there is a slit for it to spill out. Her skirt does have depiction of roman armor, panels of thick fabric, possibly leather, covers her waist and thighs along with a long skirt with a slit with an edging of fur. She also wears gladiator shoes. She wears a mask with the least wrinkles, and a diadem with flowers. The second fate, the middle and taller Lachesis holds a spindle and ball of thread, indicating that she is measuring the thread after Clotho spins it. Her costume is based on the same principles of Clothoâ€™s costume, with variations. As the older Fate, her hair is braided to the top of her head and has a more mature costume. She wears a vest that is tied at the waist and covers her shoulders, which have slashings to show the fabric underneath. An addition of an outer covering is placed on her shoulders. Her breasts come through slits placed in the vest. Her skirt is similar to Clothoâ€™s but does not have the slit in the side and has different paneling. The eldest Fate, Atropos, rips her wool into two. She is the Fate that cuts the string and ends life. Atropos wears the oldest mask and has little ornamentation. She has a double skirt edged with fur and the thick fabric covering her shoulders and front. Her hair is covered but her arms are bare to show her strength. These costumes were meant to be shown together or in order of appearance. Fiorentinoâ€™s other known costume design drawing is of Hercules. This design is different from the Three Fate. It is not just a technical drawing of the costume; the character is emotionally represented as well (Fig 3). Hercules stands with an olive branch, the symbol for peace, instead of the club of wood. Hercules has traded the power symbol for peace instead. He still wears the lion headdress, but it is more as a cape instead of as a fighter symbol, it hangs limply around his shoulders. The feathers on top elegantly hang over his head and must have moved magnificently by the costume wearer. He is dressed in loose fitting garments, not ready for the stress of battle. This costume is like the Three Fates in that the panels of the skirt are edged with fur and tassels. Hercules is calm and seems to be contemplative.
figure one. figure two.
by: chloe kaszans 7
h an d ma d e wor ld
With our economy still in an awful recession, the consumer’s interests have shifted to a new dynamic. It seems that rather than running to the mall to buy a gift for a friend, people are turning to websites such as Etsy.com, to purchase handmade goods from small online shops.
FM: What inspires your designs? Another artist or designer? Or is it something organic inside you?
thought takes a load of their shoulders understanding they are helping another individual in these hard times. It leaves the consumer feeling a little less guilty when spending money, and the designer a little more reassured that they can pay the bills.
BB: I work best in my home studio or out in a natural place away from city noise and distractions.
BB: I am inspired by natural designs. The lines in a leaf are as beautiful to me as the intricate lines in a tiny circuit. I focus on a small part of an object and feature that small design as the center piece for a A great deal of consumers in today’s world are jewelry design. I look at my jewelry designs as if comforted in knowing that their money is directly they were miniature abstract paintings. going into an independent designer, crafter, or artists hands, rather than a large corporation. This FM: When and where do you work best?
This why FM has decided to feature three small companies. Each of which represent a different craft (jewelry, knitting, and handbags) and will explain what makes them tick and why designing is so important to them.
FM: Being in the handmade market, are you drawn to purchasing handmade goods rather than products from large corporations?
BB: I am drawn to buying handmade items because it supports artists who are trying to live their dream by earning a living in a creative way. I trust hand made and always try to support the artists who struggle and strive everyday to make a good Our jewelry designer comes to us from San Fran- product. I am drawn to artists like myself, who use recycled items to make their work. I know they are using their imaginations and can see the full pocisco, California and her name is Betsy Berbe- tential and the beauty in using ‘found objects’ as rian. She feels her shop, Violets New Vintage, is the focal point of their creations. an escape from our ‘throw away’ world. She loves the challenge of using electronic components and FM: What items from your shop are you most transforming them into completely fabulous and proud of? wearable jewelry. BB: I am proud of the circuit jewelry line I have Betsy works out of her home studio. She started created. The cuff links, tie tacks and earrings all Violets New Vintage when a friend of Betsy’s was show off the lovely patterns of the circuits...and moving and gave her a box of circuits she didn’t these circuits were once considered objects to be want anymore. She instantly fell in love with the in- discarded or thrown away (designs pictured on tricate designs on the circuits and started to cut up previous page). the old circuit boards in my poor dead computers to make her own jewelry designs. She has been selling Want to see more of this shop’s unique jewelry? Check out Betsy’s designs at: on Etsy now for three years. www.etsy.com/shop/VioletsNewVintage
violets new vintage
violets new vintage
violets new vintage
violets new vintage
violets new vintage
we don’t leave the house without the project in hand whether it’s swimming lessons, the playground, or Our knitting feature consists of two fabulous de- dancing classes. signers that combine their passions into a shop called Knittles. Mavis and Olga are affiliated by FM: Being in the handmade market, are you marrying brothers, and having a knack for knit- drawn to purchasing handmade goods? ting. They started selling on Etsy.com in 2007, M&O: It’s really amazing how our material due to the fact that everyone in their family al- needs and what we base our purchasing deciready possessed one or two of their creations. sions on have changed since we started selling The fantastic knitting duo claim, “Once you sell handmade. We buy a lot of handmade products your first item, it’s hard to stop.” locally and on etsy.com. We are also big fans of FM: What inspires your designs? M&O: It’s different for both of us, but really inspiration can come from anything and can strike at any time; textures & colors of yarn, shapes & forms; experimenting with new construction methods and techniques, new fashion trends. Very often the idea gets written down or quickly sketched. New designs get worked, and revisited until we are completely satisfied in both function & aesthetics. Since we don’t use existing patterns, sometimes the new design can be knitted and taken apart several times until one of us gets it right. FM: When and where do you work best?
“locally made” and farmers markets. You really can’t help but think where a particular product has been made, who made it and in what conditions. Sometimes it is hard to compete with a price from a larger store but there are some corporations that we completely avoid buying from. FM: What items from your shop are you most proud of? M&O: It is really hard to single out anything as we cherish every single item we make and sometimes even a little sad to see it go when it sells. Usually, we favor more our latest creations such as our Polar Bear Tube Neckwarmer, Let Loose Charcoal Knit Cowl, and Arctic Wrap. Woolly Helm is still our favorite hat though.
M&O: Fortunately, or unfortunately, knitting can be taken anywhere. Most often we knit in To see more from these fabulous knitting dethe evenings when the kids are in bed. Road signers, check out at: trips are very productive as well and excellent www.etsy.com/shop/knittles for trying out new designs. During busy season,
Our bags feature comes to us all the way from Thailand. This designing duo consists of a husband, Arnont, and wife, Toanoi, team that have transformed their love of the arts into lovely handmade leather accessories.
RNTN: Unfortunately, we don’t think handmade works can expand the market the way than products from large corporations can but we don’t speak about it with a sense of dreary, we just understand that is how it is. We do hope the handmade market will attract more attention and (Note: Their answers were paraphased due to lanlead people to think if you must buy products, guage barrier and had to be translated into English). why not buy handmade. It seems buyers usuFM: What inspires your designs? ally have a stronger connection with handmade RNTN: We are inspired by many things. We ob- work because they know who they are supportserve our surroundings, people, nature and are ing. It make us proud to be handmade workers and have our buyers be proud to own handmade. influenced by native arts as well. FM: When and where do you work best? RNTN: Our best time to start to work is nine o’clock in morning and we continue working all day. We work when inspiration hits and allow us to have personal time such as going to the library on Saturday and resting on Sunday. We also go out for drawing in the evening twice of week. The best place to do our work is our studio in our house outside the city. Our yard is the perfect setting also because we are surrounded by nature . We have star fruit trees, mango trees, sweetsop trees, longan trees and a little grass yard for our 15 cats to play.
In the future we do not hope that people will buy only hand made work, but we hope with happiness that handmade workers will have more and more support. I mean we are all human. We have minds, and we need gratification. With this reason, we believe the handmade market will continue to grow in a larger supported direction. We try not worry about it though because we have confidence the buyers know the value handmade work and that they will continuine to buy and spread by word of mouth about the importance of the handmade market. We hope people will find the value appropriate with them.
To see more from these fabulous knitting deFM: Being in the handmade market, are you signers, check out at: drawn to purchasing handmade goods? www.etsy.com/shop/rntn
by: victoria hughes 11
FM style advice
suit 101: purchasing a suit Suits are prevalent in fashion and are worn by millions of men every day. However, despite its commonality in our society there is an extreme lack of knowledge on the subject. I’m here to inform and answer any questions my peers at Georgia Southern may have regarding this topic. I will do so in three parts, the first being a guide on purchasing your suit, the second on detail and wearing it properly and the third on keeping your investment in tip top shape. Let’s get started shall we!
Now that you know why you want your suit and how much you’re willing to spend, let’s search for inspiration. Inspiration is important in clothing because it gives direction and destination. Seeing others in their suits makes you optimistic about how your suit will look on you. Visit GQ, the Sartorialist or Lookbook and find an outfit you admire and believe suits you. Print the picture out and take it to the store with you and don’t leave until you look better than the person you drew your inspiration from. Here are examples of how a bad Shopping for a suit doesn’t start at Men’s Wear- and a good suit would look. house or any other store, it starts with you. Ask yourself a couple of questions before going to The best suit is obvious here; now let’s decipher make a purchase. The first should be what the oc- how to reach that point. You can make a good suit casion is, is it for an interview, wedding, an up- look cheap and a cheap one look expensive all by scale party, work or everyday life? Tell the sales- how it fits you. No one’s body is identical, so never man the occasion when you get there and he will buy your suit off the rack. Get it tailored. Now, let lead you in the right direction. Don’t let him tell us analyze how to make the perfect suit. you everything; he still has a job to do which is selling you a product by any means necessary. The first place of emphasis and maybe the most Bring someone whose opinion you value along and important; is the shoulders. You don’t want too let them look at everything you try on. Along with much padding in the shoulders, it looks unnatuyour spectator, make sure you go with a budget in ral. A perfect way to tell if the shoulder on your mind. You get what you pay for; a good suit may jacket is fitted correctly would be to stand side-bybe around $500 and great one $1000 and up. The side with a wall and lean into it, if the shoulder pad steep price range of looking sharp makes getting touches the wall before your actual shoulder does, that perfect suit even more important, you don’t then the suit is too big. When they both touch the wall at the same time, it’s a good fit. The shoulder want your money going to a waste.
pads should fall gracefully and smoothly into the sleeves, and shouldn’t be a jagged transition. Next is the chest. You shouldn’t have to strain in order to button it and it also shouldn’t be too loose. This is indicated by the space between the buttons and your chest. Lapels and ties are crucial in this area but are more detail specific than we will dive into at the moment. Let’s keep it simple for now and move on to sleeve length. There’s nothing more wretched than seeing an arm swallowed by a suit. Arm sizes and length vary, so this is definitely a part you may have to get tailored. When it’s perfect the sleeves on the suit should stop at a quarter inch before the thumb joint (located at the wrist). The dress shirt underneath should be seen only in that quarter inch window between the jacket and your thumb joint. The pants should fit your silhouette, not engulf it. Make sure the waist isn’t too high or too low and they rest on the waist, not the hips. The legs should float over your shoe, they should not stack at the bottom nor should they grip your ankles like skinny jeans. Another thing to pay attention to is how much your socks are showing. A large portion of the socks should only be visible when you are sitting down. Shoes are completely up to your taste and budget, just make sure they complement the suit well. And the most important thing with the shoes, as with the rest of the suit, is to make sure it feels comfortable. People can look at you and tell when you’re in discomfort and this is not the look you want to convey in your suit. You’re going to be in this thing all day so make sure it feels perfect.
There are so many more things to look out for when buying a suit; in our next issue I will cover details like appropriate number of buttons, pocket squares, ties, and lapels and how to effectively and elegantly wear your suit. If you can’t wait until then for more advice or if you have any questions feel free to email us at firstname.lastname@example.org and your question will be answered on our Fashion Menagerie Facebook page. Also, take a look these outfits and how they support all the principles of a well fitting suit. Thank you for reading and good luck!
by: johnathon sanford
FM style advice
10 tips for
wiseshoppers photographs by: james a. daniel & shelby hicks
10) Avoid shopping with someone who 5) Do not underestimate the superstore opoverspends. tion. Pick your friends wisely. A good shopping buddy is the one that keeps a watchful eye on how much his or her friend is spending. Expensive tastes can be nice, but practicality is the key to good fashion decisions.
When utilized correctly, superstores such as WalMart and Target can be a shopper’s best friend. Not all of the store’s products are of great quality, but on occasion, a shopper can find fashionable options that cost less and last just as long as those 9) Window shop at the mall, but refrain expensive brands. One such example is this pair of sandals from Target; cost: $10.50. from buying. The mall is a great place to pick up a sense of fash- 4) Check the quality of a brand name beion and get ideas for cute outfits. Unfortunately, fore purchasing. prices are marked up in mall stores on products that can be found at more reasonable prices elsewhere. Looking and trying on can be fun, but danger follows the pocketbooks of mall shoppers.
Often times, shoppers decide to buy clothes because they see them on commercials or on their friends. Unfortunately, not all clothing manufacturers take pride in offering the highest quality products. Armani may cost more than Abercrom8) Polyester > Silk bie, but the fabric and thread quality of Armani Unless you are buying a tie, remember, polyester will not leave you looking for a new shirt in six feels smooth to the touch and looks slick. There is months. no need to pay for overpriced silk when polyester 3) Steer clear of impulse buys. is a more affordable, and comfortable option. 7) Exercise caution when purchasing ex- Many stores make a large percentage of income from impulse buyers. This is why perfume stapensive accessories. tions are positioned in the direct path of shoppers Handbags, shoes, and sunglasses all have one at Dillards. How many times have you picked up a thing in common. They can run shoppers into candy bar at the Wal-Mart checkout line because the ground. Knock-off brands exist today that it looked too good to pass up? Do not let impulse look nearly identical to Louis Vuitton and Coach sales define your shopping experiences. products, but cost much less. There is no shame in buying stylish accessories that do not just sell you 2) Utilize E-Bay. an expensive name. You will probably lose that Ebay.com is the largest auction site on the interpair of Oakley’s before the five dollar shades you net. Shoppers can find both new and used items bought in the gas station across the street. This from all over the world. The best part, of course, is pair of sunglasses, modeled after Armani styles, that E-Bay shoppers consistently save money. For cost $10.00 in a mall kiosk. instance, this pair of Versace Jeans was retailed at 6) Not all jewelry must come from Shane about $400.00. On E-Bay they cost only $97.00 after shipping. Who would not want to save 75% Co. on high-end fashion? When it is time to buy that special someone in your life a birthday or Christmas gift, the high- 1) Be happy with what you can afford. end jeweler is a poor option. Shane Co. is the best Living in a materialistic society causes most peoplace to purchase engagement rings and wedding ple to want what they cannot have. However, there bands, but unless you are Bill Gates, you may want is no shame in knowing what is within the confines to shop elsewhere for your sweetheart’s necklace. of you budget and not overspending. Your quality If it comes down to a choice between Kay Jewel- of life is far too important to sacrifice for unafforders and Tiffany & Co., remember, a pair of earrings able clothing options. will cost substantially less at Kay. This 10K white gold necklace with real diamonds and amethyst by: james a. daniel cost $150.00 at Kay Jewelers. Similar necklaces cost over $1,000.00 at Tiffany & Co.
an underground affair photographed by: jane smith and melissa price
models clockwise: Neeka Burns, Antonese Wilson, Jasmine Wilkson, Rachel Wakefield, NaShaya McKethan, Michael Hyatt, Jane Smith, Hasna Taqi, Kristina Verner, Jewel Williams, Johnathon Grant
left page models: Neeka Burns (L), Antonese Wilson (R) right page models: Johnathon Grant (L), Kristina Verner (R)
left page models: Michael Hyatt, Rachel Wakefield, NaShaya McKethan right page models: Rachel Wakefield (L), Hasna Taqi (R)
6 october 1989 major:
Fashion Merchandising minor:
Business class status:
Junior (3rd year)
the big games. Especially when comes around to March Maddness. I will NOT miss a Villanova game! One of my favorite things is sitting on the couch with needle and thread making jewelry while yelling at the sports announcers on ESPN. one thing you’re most proud of?
I am most proud of my small jewelry business, Garden of Eden Designs. I don’t necessarily care if my business I would on impulse, buy a one way ticket to Vegas and become a show- makes it huge, but I want it to make girl... but answering more realistically, an impact in someone’s life. With the meaning and passion I put into my I would probably become a crazy, work, I want at least one other perfree-spirit art teacher. son out there to love it as much as the best advice I can give is... I do. I create my jewelry in a reflecDare to make the impossible, postion of myself and put a little bit of sible. Only you can make limitations my spirit in each piece, and if somefor yourself. If you believe it will one else can share in that aesthetic, happen, it will someday. Be patient and my job has been done. trust your gut. Dream BIG and don’t what/who inspires you? be afraid to fall flat on your ass. My parents. They both have shown what is the best advice you’ve ever reme what love, hard work, and dedicacieved? tion can accomplish in life. They have “Do not pray for dreams equal to never once told me I couldn’t do your powers. Pray for powers equal something. They always back me. I to your dreams.” -Phillips Brooks would not be the daringly passionate my favorite article of clothing is... person I am today if it wasn’t for them. Do stilettos count as an article of clothing? :) what do you want to be when you grow up? if I wasn’t a fashion major, I would...
my favorite thing to do is...
Laugh. And usually it’s at myself! people would never guess that...
I love sports! I may not know every player’s name, but I love watching 22
A designer. A writer. A painter. A dreamer. A teacher. A lover. A mother. A helping hand. And a rebellious badass that I wish I was, but deep down know I’m not. :)
see more by victoria hughes at:
photographs by; victoria hughes
k i t t i e s in k o u t u r e
Boutiques are the key to the house of fashion, tempting wild cats from all over to be tamed in the comforts of custom style. Kittens are attracted to couture like a new development in catnip. The kitties adventure to their favorite shop, breathless to find a unique gem in the world of chic. They claw at the fabric obsessively, hoping to be the one to clutch the only one of its kind. They sniff at prices to detect discounts. The only size two checks the tag, hoping the dress was made for her. She could visualize the silhouette cinching, strapless, black gown upon her slim frame as every-
one around her became envious, as she strutted across the ballroom, with the lace grazing the floor. “Ha, a size four,” one yells. Before the words could roll completely off her whiskers, she snatches the dress and sashays to the dressing room. The dress barely makes it over her hips. She meows in distress. “Need any help in there?” another purrs. “No, it fits!” size four snaps back, “Victory is mine.” The other kittens thrust their tails in the air and stalk towards another store in hopes of claiming their own prize.
by: neeka burns
FM calender 10.26 through 11.09 GSU’s Finest Male Calender available for presale at just $12 each. 12.02 FM Fashion Showcase at 6 pm in the Art Building. Come out and see work from GSU’s FMAD students. This event is open to the public. Refreshments will be available for purchase.
During the FM Showcase, recieve your GSU’s Finest Male Calender and get it signed by the models themself. 24
FM looks for less
Looking for a unique piece of jewelry? Check out the Gardenâ€™s fresh picks:
gardenofedendesigns.etsy.com Follow the Garden on facebook and twitter! Want to know the story behind the Gardenâ€™s creations? Check out gardenofedendesigns.blogspot.com
Published on Dec 17, 2010
FM is a fashion magazine based at Georgia Southern University. Magazine is created and produced by GSU's Fashion Menagerie's Club.