2021 Burgundy En Primeur - Stannary Wine

Millésime du Vigneron

Jason Haynes Burgundy Buyer

What a wonderful, refreshing dark horse the 2021 vintage is. Back in September ’21, I don’t think most producers were especially optimistic with what they were about to harvest, frustrated by devastating April frosts and a challenging growing season. Yet, here we are, 15 months on, and we have a vibrant, terroir-driven, downright seductive vintage on our hands that just gets better and better in tank and barrel.

For younger growers, who have only made a handful of vintages, it will be the first time they have had to work with what might be termed a more classical vintage, harvesting in late September rather than late August and managing acidity levels rarely seen in the sunshine vintages of ’17,’18’,’19 and ’20. There is little doubt that there are many truly brilliant wines from these four vintages, yet, as someone who cut their primeur teeth in the ‘90s and noughties, I find so many of these 2021s are a real delight. If you like your Burgundy tasting notes to be full of words such as purity, varietal character, precision, vibrancy, nuance, complexity, mouthwatering, then this is the vintage for you. Admittedly, we are in the fortunate position of working with a many of the Côte’s best producers and thus perhaps haven’t experienced some of the more pedestrian wines of the vintage, but if ever there was a ‘millésime du vigneron’ then this is it. And the best vignerons have really made some great wines!.

Putting more detail on the vintage, it’s important to note the weather in the early part of 2021. The bitterly cold winters endured by previous generations of Burgundians appear to be a thing of the

past with mild temperatures in the traditionally colder months of January and February, often followed by positively balmy weather in March and April. In 2021, thermometers were closing in on 30 degrees towards the end of March which is just astonishing. The issue isn’t that frosts are more severe or that they are happening later but that the vines are much more advanced in their cycle than they used to be, meaning that when the frost comes it has a much greater impact. Frost was forecast for the 6th, 7th and 8th of April in 2021 and when growers saw the snow descend on the evening of the 7th they knew disaster was just around the corner as the moisture from the white stuff would accentuate the efficacy of the frost in the early hours of the following morning. Many growers lit candles in their best vineyards, an expensive and tiring process, in order to reduce the likely damage, but they were fighting a losing battle. Unusually, the frosts hit the slopes rather than the flatter parts of the vineyards where the Bourgognes and Village wines tend to be, meaning that the best, more valuable vineyards were the worst affected. This was catastrophic. Growers lost up to 85% of some vineyards. Chardonnay tended to be more heavily impacted due to its earlier budding and consequently the Côte de Beaune was much more impacted than the Côte de Nuits, where we had the surreal experiences of growers feeling relieved that they had lost only 50% of their crop!

With the crop already devastated even before it had the chance to establish itself, growers had to pick themselves up mentally and attack the work in the vineyards that needed doing. And there was plenty to do. Mildew and oidium threw their hats into the ring as well, just to cause a few additional headaches, whilst the impact of the frost was causing great variation in the ripening of the vineyards as many vines had to pause and gather themselves after the shock of being frosted before continuing their maturation process. A cooler summer pushed the likely harvest date well into September, though choosing the perfect start date was no easy task, given the variation in ripening and the desire to harvest clean

Picture © Simon Owen

grapes with decent sugars. Sorting tables earned their keep with some vineyards needing plenty of diligence and rigour to ensure only the best bunches were kept. It can’t have been easy having to discard a number of bunches when yields were already decimated. Thankfully, the best growers took the admirable view that in ten years’ time consumers would not remember the size if the vintage and would only be focused on the quality of the wines so all sacrifices in the pursuit of quality were worth it.

With the harvest safely banked, there then came the question of what sort of wines did they want to try and make and how ambitious should they be? I think it’s fair to say the differences in approach to winemaking have never been so stark. How much new oak? how much whole bunch? how much extraction? how long an elevage and when should one bottle? There were general trends that were followed but also plenty of individual stances taken that were well argued and seemingly logical and justified. Many producers used no new oak at all, in large part thanks to practical reasons such as having enough 1 year barrels to house the entire vintage, whilst others wanted to maintain percentages to help add weight and structure. Whole bunch use was overall lower as growers were less confident of the maturity of the stems, although some growers used more than in previous vintages as a way of reducing acidity levels naturally. Extraction was lighter than usual with the number of pigeages generally reduced, often in favour of the more infusive pumping over, to maximise the fruitiness of the wines, though again some growers wanted to add greater weight and therefore maintained extraction levels, and some growers felt a slightly earlier bottling would be sensible to lock in the bright, juicy fruit that the wines were expressing post malo. The variation in style and quality of the fruit that growers had to work with largely dictated which approach they took and ultimately how successful they were.

We first tasted the wines properly in June and were wowed by many of the whites, which were already showing great promise with a good

number not far off their 2020 counterparts and several, actually, better. Lively, energetic and refreshing with excellent expression of their terroirs. The reds seemed more variable but with plenty of charm. However, when we re-visited for a five-week tasting session this autumn, the reds were in a spectacularly different place, having evolved quite beautifully in the four or five months since the summer. The lighter wines had become charming, harmonized and wonderfully Pinot in character, showing deft touches of complexity and precision, whilst the more intense offerings were really quite serious, reflecting the natural intensity of the small yields yet channeling the intensity through length and subtle nuance which reminded us of why we love Pinot, especially Burgundian Pinot, so much. It’s very difficult to make comparisons with other vintages, especially the more recent ones given that so many of them have been solar vintages. In terms of cooler vintages, these 2021s have much more depth and charm than the 2013s and much greater ripeness than 2011 or 2008. In some respects, they are a little like cooler, more refreshing 2017s which is indeed high praise, given how delicious the 17s are now.

Allocating these wines will not be easy. It was already difficult dividing up the much bigger vintage of 2020 and here we are looking at around 2/3s less with a likely big demand. Prices have increased, inevitably, such is the shortfall in production, but most growers are aware of the sensitivity of the market and are keen to reward their loyal followers’ fidelity.

With the small quantities of 2021, many wines will be on allocation. May we please have your order before Wednesday 1 February 10AM and we will try and do our allocations as soon as possible.

Picture © Simon Owen

Vintage Report 2

Chablis • Mâconnais • Côte Chalonnaise

Bret Brothers & La Soufrandière 6

Domaine du Clos des Rocs 7

Domaine Gilles Morat 8

Domaine Charton 9

Côte de Beaune

Maranges & Santenay

Domaine Bertrand Bachelet 12

Domaine Agnès Paquet 13

Domaine Lafouge 14

Chassagne-Montrachet

Domaine Bruno Colin 17

Domaine Philippe Colin 19

Simon Colin 20

Armand Heitz 21

Domaine Thomas Morey 23

Domaine Bernard Moreau 25

Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay 27

Maison Pierre Brisset 29

Puligny-Montrachet

Domaine Pernot-Belicard 31

Domaine Etienne Sauzet 32

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot 34

Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot 35

Domaine de Montille & Maison De Montille 36

Meursault

Domaine Antoine Jobard 39

Domaine Tessier 40

Domaine Matrot 41

Domaine Ballot-Millot 42

Domaine Henri Germain 43 Volnay

Domaine Yvon Clerget 45

Pommard & Savigny-lès-Beaune

Domaine Violot-Guillemard 47

Domaine Jean-Baptiste Lebreuil 49

Domaine Jean Guiton 50

Aloxe-corton • Pernand-Vergelesses • Ladoix

Domaine Tollot-Beaut 52

Côte de Nuits

Nuits-Saint-Georges

Domaine Henri Gouges & Maison Gouges 55

Domaine Robert Chevillon 57 Nicolas Faure 58

Thibault Liger-Belair 59 Domaine Tawse 61

Vosne-Romanée

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot 64

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot 66 Domaine Tardy 67 Domaine du Clos Frantin 68

Chambolle-Musigny

Mark Haisma 70

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat 72

Morey-Saint-Denis

Domaine Taupenot-Merme 74

Domaine Arlaud& Vins D’arlaud 76

Domaine Stéphane Magnien 79

Gevrey-Chambertin

Domaine Henri Magnien 82

Domaine Duroché 84

Domaine Geantet-Pansiot 86

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet 87 Domaine Coillot 89

Terms & Conditions 90

LATE RELEASES

Domaine Paul Pillot

Domaine Sylvain Pataille (2020s)

Domaine des Lambrays

Domaine Alain Michelot

Domaine des Comtes Lafon (2020s)

Domaine Georges Roumier

Domaine Buisson-Battault

Domaine Dujac

Domaine Georges Noëllat

Domaine Hubert Lamy

CHABLIS CÔTEMÂCONNAISCHALONNAISE

BRET BROTHERS & LA SOUFRANDIÈRE

• Mâconnais - Vinzelles

• Winemaker: Jean-Philippe & Jean-Guillaume Bret

There may be two of them, but there are no two ways about it: the Bret Bros produce some of the finest wines the Mâconnais has to offer. These are wines with incredible precision and freshness, which invariably age well. The adventure began for Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume in 2000, when they took back from the local co-op four hectares of vines that had belonged to their grandfather in the village of Vinzelles. Domaine de la Soufrandière today amounts to some 11.5 hectares, which are farmed biodynamically, while the négociant business Bret Bros draws on a similar surface area of vineyards managed by friends who share the Brets’ commitment to organics and, in many cases, biodynamics. The brothers use minimal SO2 and no new oak whatsoever. They believe that exposing the free-run juice to just the right amount of oxygen means their wines become more resilient (and therefore less reliant on SO2 for protection) for the long-term. They produced about two-thirds of a normal crop in 2021 owing primarily to the frost, and kicked off harvest on September 20th. Whatever the quantity, they are delighted with the results, which boast remarkable energy, concentration and length.

Pouilly-Fuissé Cuvée ‘Terres de Vergisson’

06 x 75cl - £144 IB

Drink from 2025

From two north-facing parcels that nevertheless ripen very well. This is a nicely chiselled Pouilly-Fuissé, showing freshcut green apple and an orange rind citrus note. This is a driven and slightly austere style, fresh and mouth-watering with plenty of power behind it.

Saint-Véran ‘La Bonnode’

06 x 75cl - £150 IB 03 x 150cl - £159 IB

Drink from 2024

Located at the foot of the Roche de Vergisson, on an eastfacing slope, this sees élevage in a combination of old barrels (60%) and stainless steel (40%). This has an intense stone fruit character, it feels fresh and lightly spicy with a lovely fruit weight to it.

Pouilly-Vinzelles ‘Les Longeays’

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Drink from 2025

From a gently sloping south-east facing site with iron-rich clay and limestone soils. This feels wonderfully pure with green orchard fruit, preserved lemon and a savoury spiced note. This again packs some real intensity and with a light phenolic bite to it, suggests good aging potential. Smart stuff indeed!

Picture © Bret Brothers

DOMAINE DU CLOS DES ROCS

• Mâconnais - Pouilly-Loché

• Winemaker: Olivier Giroux

The relentlessly energetic Olivier Giroux bought this estate in 2002, having grown up in neighbouring Fuissé where his parents have a domaine. From day one Olivier’s mission was to make site-specific wines that would express the nuances in terroir. To this end, he farms organically (certified since 2015) and changes little in his winemaking from one cuvée to the next, albeit his Mâcon-Lochés are raised exclusively in tank while the rest of the range sees some oak. He increasingly favours used 500L barrels but is a fan too of 300L inox barriques – it’s fascinating, Olivier explains, how their shape alone means they can impact a wine differently from a conventional tank.

As Olivier points out, even the richer, more gourmand cuvées finish with a moreish salty lick in ’21. He attributes this, above all, to having “living soils” free from artificial chemicals but also the rigours of excessive tilling. It was a challenging vintage: Olivier lost half his crop and fermentations were painfully slow, calling for extra batonnage to stimulate the yeast, but the ‘21s Olivier has made are excellent, in what he describes as a relatively open style, classic of the Mâconnais.

Pouilly-Loché ‘Les Barres’

12 x 75cl - £210 IB

Drink from 2024

From clay soils with a high proportion of gravels, the vines are from two parcels of 50 and 80 year old vines. A beautifully inviting nose, expressive and complex with ripe peach fruit and layered sweet spice. The aromatic openness slightly misleads here as the palate delivers serious power and remains quite tightly coiled. There is a lightly savoury, nutty finish and great length.

Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Les Pierrottes’

12 x 75cl - £240 IB

Drink from 2024

Rich, golden, opulent, and spicy, there is a real generosity to this wine that still manages to feel fresh and very composed at the same time. There is a more mealy character to the wine, a light crème brûlée note that adds to the decadence. 90-yearold vines go some way to explaining the levels of intensity offered here. The wine sees élevage for twelve months in old 500l barrels.

Pouilly-Loché ‘En Chantone’

12 x 75cl - £240 IB

Drink from 2024

From one of the oldest and most revered vineyards in this small 32ha appellation, the vines of En Chatonne are up to 110 years old and located on limestone-rich soils. There is immense power here, taut and intense with attractive Mirabelle fruit that is complemented by a distinctive salinity. Whilst very attractive now this is still quite raw and will benefit from a little longer in bottle.

Picture © Domaine du Clos des Rocs

DOMAINE GILLES MORAT

• Mâconnais - Vergisson

• Winemaker: Gilles Morat

Despite the irrepressible positivity of the famille Morat – Gilles, Joëlle and son Pierre – there was no mistaking their dismay at the tiny volumes in 2021. Several cuvees were not made this year, including the excellent Saint-Véran climat of La Côte Rôtie, as well as the recently promoted Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru of Les Crays. Fortunately, what was made was of an excellent quality, even if Gilles admits it wasn’t the easiest growing season to work with, particularly given this was the final year of conversion to organics.

As ever, one can’t help being impressed by wines at this address that offer a precision, intensity and tension not always associated with this end of Burgundy. As such, winemaking here tends more towards the reductive side with as little racking as possible and usually no bâtonnage, though this year, with plenty of natural acidity, a small amount was carried out to build texture. Oak too is used sparingly with a maximum of 10-15% used on the 1er Cru. Gilles proudly describes the family as ‘big defenders of acidity’ and looking out from the family domaine up in the exposed hills above Vergisson it’s easy to see why. With the Roc de Vergisson on one side and the Roc de Solutré on the other, the lower Mâconnais falls away between them in the plateau beyond and reminds us what a cut above this terroir is. No wine epitomises this more than the outstanding Pouilly-Fuissé, La Haut de La Roche, located at 425m altitude on a bed of limestone and comically deemed by the authorities to be too high for inclusion into the 1er Cru section of Sur La Roche! An outstanding effort and proof, should it ever be required, of the Mâconnais’ ability to challenge the Côte d’Or on quality.

Saint-Véran ‘La Roche Mer’

12 x 75cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2023

This opens with lovely intensity, full of peaches, cream and a touch of honey. There’s very nice tension here too that holds everything together very nicely. This finishes long and elegant in the mouth with a note of acacia blossom. This includes fruit usually destined for Saint-Véran ‘Côte Rôtie’ that was not made this year as a standalone cuveé. This is a very smart introduction to the line-up this year!

Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Haut de La Roche’

12 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2024

At 425m this is this is one of highest vineyards in PouillyFuissé, based on calcareous soils on the Hill of Vergisson. As one might expect with this exposure and soil profile, the wine is beautifully pristine, though dense and still quite reserved. There is an almost electric quality to it, showing a saline mineral character along with mouth-watering ripe lemon, white grapefruit and freshly cut Granny Smith. A wine to silence any doubters of the Mâconnais, this wine stopped us in our tracks as one of the greatest examples of Pouilly-Fuissé we could remember tasting.

Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru ‘Sur La Roche’

06 x 75cl - £192 IB

Drink from 2025

From a respectably lofty 400m this was another stunning example from chez Morat this year. Richer than the ‘Haut de la Roche’, this is extremely powerful and tightly coiled, packed with nectarine, baked apple and toasted spices from the barrel. This packs very serious intensity with beautifully focused acidity to carry the natural fruit weight. This no doubt has an excellent life ahead.

Picture © Domaine Gilles Morat

•

DOMAINE CHARTON

• Côte Chalonnaise - Mercurey

Winemaker: Vincent Charton

Vincent Charton’s wines have been on a serious upward trajectory for several years now and his 2021’s certainly continue the trend. Having taken the reins at the 12ha family domaine in 2008, while in his early twenties, Vincent has established himself over the past 14 vintages as one of the most talented and dynamic winemakers in the Côte Chalonnaise. The vineyards here are farmed organically and contain numerous parcels of old vines amongst the holdings. Meanwhile in the winery a low intervention approach is followed using wild yeast and gentle extraction, producing a far more finessed and elegant expression of Pinot Noir than is often associated with this commune. In 2021, working with a more delicate style of fruit, Vincent opted for some light pigeage to build structure before transferring the wines to barrel where around 30% of the oak was new. 2021 was another excellent effort from Vincent who reminds us that outstanding wines that don’t cost the earth are still to be found in Burgundy.

Mercurey Vieilles Vignes

12 x 75cl - £216 IB

Drink from 2024

From three parcels of mature vines ranging between 30 to 80 years of age. Light on its feet and very pretty with a sweet core of raspberry and redcurrant, this is a beautifully fresh and very satisfying Mercurey.

Mercurey 1er Cru ‘La Chassière’ 06 x 75cl - £156 IB

Drink from 2025

A south facing vineyard with a very good exposure and usually one of Vincent’s first to be picked. This manages to feel both delicate and wild in equal measure. Full of dried violets, red cherries and sous bois, there is a lot of complexity even at this early stage. Structurally polished with fine, supple tannins and a bright bead of acidity, this has a real sense of class.

Mercurey 1er Cru ‘Clos du Roy’ 06 x 75cl - £156 IB

Drink from 2025

Perhaps this commune’s most acclaimed Premier Cru, this east facing vineyard on terre blanche soils typically produces the most rich and powerful wines in any Mercurey lineup. This is dark with lovely intensity of black forest fruit, earth and a touch of woodsmoke that lend a very attractive savoury feel. The palate shows very serious structure too, with powerful fine tannins and plenty of fruit intensity that might be more typically associated with the Côtes de Nuits. This should age very nicely.

Mercurey 1er Cru ‘Naugues’

06 x 75cl - £156 IB

Picture © Domaine Charton

CÔTE DE BEAUNE

MARANGES & SANTENAY

These two villages lie beyond Chassagne-Montrachet in the southern-most part of the Côte de Beaune before one arrives in the Côte Chalonnaise. Both appellations produce a little bit of white wine, but both are known primarily for their reds. White Santenay tends to be quite fruit driven and rounded, fairly accessible in youth, whilst its reds can be a mix of style depending on the vineyard and the grower. The more modern style is one of crunchy, juicy fruit for earlier drinking; the more traditional style tends towards the rustic, with more obvious structure and tannin. Maranges, too, varies in style (only 5% of Maranges is white). The steep slopes planted with Pinot tend to produce focussed, quite precise styles of red whilst the vineyards on the plain, where there is more clay soil, are more powerful and dense. The best examples of both appellations can offer very good value for money. There is no Grand Cru in either village.

MARANGES

• 40ha of Maranges Village (12% white)

• 130ha of Maranges 1ers Crus (2% white)

• 7 different Maranges 1er Crus

SANTENAY

• 130ha of Santenay Village (10% white)

• 20ha of Santenay 1ers Crus (15% white)

• 12 different Santenay 1er Crus

•

DOMAINE BERTRAND BACHELET

• Côte de Beaune - Maranges

Winemaker: Bertrand Bachelet

Young Bertrand has now moved to brand new premises, having built himself a state-of-the-art new winery, not far from his parents’ original winery at the family home. This gives him not just a lot more space but also more equipment, allowing him to vinify at his own pace for the benefit of his wines. Despite the bad frosts, Bertrand actually has a few new wines this year with some young plantations in St Aubin coming on board. Obviously, like everyone, his volumes were impacted by the April frosts, but this feels very much like the start of a new chapter for this diligent, exciting winemaker. His 2021 reds are very pretty and balanced and nicely handled whilst his whites show purity and gentle touch.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Sur Gamay’

06 x 75cl - £198 IB Saint-Aubin

1er Cru ‘La Cueillette de Marie’

06 x 75cl - £198 IB

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Combes au Sud’

06 x 75cl - £204 IB Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘En Remilly’

06 x 75cl - £216 IB

Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc

06 x 75cl - £228 IB

Meursault ‘Clos du Cromin’

06 x 75cl - £264 IB Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’

06 x 75cl - £348 IB

Maranges

06 x 75cl - £108 IB

Maranges 1er Cru ‘Clos Roussots’

06 x 75cl - £132 IB

Drink from 2026

The soil here is much more clay based and the wine shows much more structure and earthiness as result. Some power and a little more backward.

Maranges 1er Cru ‘La Fussière’

06 x 75cl - £132 IB

Drink from 2025

This is very much on the red fruit spectrum and shows a brightness that sits nicely with just the right amount of grip. The steep, towering vineyard is one of Maranges best and this is a fantastic example.

Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge

06 x 75cl - £156 IB

Picture © Simon Owen

•

DOMAINE AGNÈS PAQUET

• Côte de Beaune - Auxey-Duresses

Winemaker: Agnès Paquet

It took a couple of attempts to taste with Agnès this year due to both of us being busy, but it was well worth the wait. It’s unfortunate that she no longer has Saint-Aubin in a vintage which is already horribly short of Chardonnay, but we focussed on her core wines from Auxey-Duresses and they were looking really promising. Like so many of her colleagues, Agnès wasn’t quite sure what to expect from the vintage when she first brought the harvest in but she has been delighted with the evolution of the wines ever since. She used minimal new oak and some larger barrels to allow the wines to focus on the development of their fruit and complexities. Very successful wines here in both colours.

Bourgogone Aligoté

06 x 75cl - £93 IB

Drink from 2024

Classical styled Aligoté; zippy, lean and racy which was bottled in August just before the harvest. Perfect example of its kind.

Hautes Côtes de Beaune Rouge

06 x 75cl - £117 IB

Drink from 2025

From fruit grown mainly in her own commune of Meloisey, this is very much on the red fruits, showing good brightness and crunch and a really attractive lift to match the earthiness.

Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc

06 x 75cl - £117 IB

Auxey-Duresses Blanc

06 x 75cl - £141 IB

Drink from 2024

This is a mix of old and young vines though it was the latter that suffered most because of frost as they were much more advanced when it hit. They lost about 85% of their fruit. The resulting higher proportion of old vines merely added more intensity and weight to the wine which impressed with its liveliness and concentration. Very pure.

Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Battaudes’

06 x 75cl - £222 IB

Drink from 2025

Production of this lovely single vineyard village wine was down below 400 bottles in 2021 but some is better than none so we are delighted to have at least a little.

Auxey-Duresses Rouge

06 x 75cl - £141 IB

Drink from 2025

Thanks to the small volumes Agnes actually vinified these two parcels (one of old vines and one of younger vines) together this year and their integration and harmony seem bang on. More red than black fruits and once again a bright lift in the mid-palate which is delightful.

Pommard

06 x 75cl - £219 IB

Drink from 2025

A touch more masculine as one might expect but more in its fruit density than structural make up. Well controlled and nicely polished for a village Pommard.

Picture © Domaine Agnès Paquet

•

DOMAINE LAFOUGE

• Côte de Beaune - Auxey-Duresses

Winemaker: Gilles & Maxime Lafouge

Gilles Lafouge has been joined by his bright and modest but clearly talented son Maxime, who consequently becomes the sixth generation to run this classy, Auxey-based domaine. The two have almost thirteen hectares in their portfolio, with the focus on their local appellation but also some nice plots in Meursault. There are a lot of old vines across the domaine which allow the father and son team to be gentle in their extraction and accentuate a harmonious finesse and elegance across the range. These are really lovely wines that offer both great value and typicity, especially from an appellation that is enjoying a real moment in the spotlight

Bourgogne Aligoté

12 x 75cl - £144 IB

Drink from 2023

From 60-year-old vines in the North West sector of Auxey, and in 2021 all put into oak due to the small harvest, although none of it new barrels. The wine is bright and open, with lots of green apple, lime zest and lemon rind flavours with good energy and refreshing acidity. A good start!

Auxey-Duresses ‘Les Hautes’

06 x 75cl - £159 IB

Drink from 2023

From a terraced vineyard near the border of Meursault with relatively deep and rich soils. The wine is fresh and floral with orchard fruits, apples, pears and yellow peach. Vibrant with plenty of richness on the mid-palate, and a long finish.

Auxey-Duresses ‘Boutonnières’

06 x 75cl - £159 IB

Drink from 2024

A great spot for growing Chardonnay, just next to Meursault ‘Meix Chavaux’. A fresh, stone fruit aroma, with wet stone on the nose and a lovely saline character, this is salivating and inviting. Lots of concentration in the middle but with elegance, drive and purity. Proper white Burgundy!

Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ‘Parapelle’ Blanc

06 x 75cl - £189 IB

Drink from 2025

This vineyard was terribly hit by frost as it was more advanced than some of its peers and instead of the usual 7 barrels, only 1 was made! Quite backward and in need of time, as the concentration is quite evident.

Meursault

06 x 75cl - £225 IB Meursault ‘Casses-Têtes’

06 x 75cl - £252 IB Meursault ‘Meix Chavaux’ 06 x 75cl - £252 IB

Drink from 2025

A great parcel for Lafouge, with 94-year-old vines. A lovely nose, stoney with touches of green apple, conference pear and citrus peel. The palate is delicious, all minerality with a salty edge. Focused and well-defined with great acidity and tension, harmonious too.

Meursault ‘Clos de Rougeot’

06 x 75cl - £600 IB

Drink from 2025

From 45-year-old vines planted on iron rich soils with an easterly exposition. A smokey, slightly reductive nose, very stoney and mineral with vivacity and intensity. Complex and concentrated but with good energy and lift; very mouthwatering with a beautiful long finish.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

12 x 75cl - £210 IB

From a 70-year-old parcel of Bourgogne vines just next to Château Pommard. A bright open wine, with red fruits, good concentration of berry fruits and a long finish.

Picture © Simon Owen

Auxey-Duresses Rouge

06 x 75cl - £126 IB

This wine is an assemblage of six parcels from different parts of the village, providing a definitive example of both the appellation and the vintage. Ripe red fruits, raspberry, cranberry with a pleasing juicy mid-palate and smooth tannins, lots of pleasure here for early drinking.

Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ‘Climat du Val’

06 x 75cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2026

The biggest single holding in the domaine at 1.3 hectares, made up of various parcels with different soil types and expositions, though many east-facing. The result is a very complex wine with a good mix of fruit intensity and stony minerality. Lots to come.

Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ‘La Chapelle’

06 x 75cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2025

A south-east facing vineyard and a climat rather than a vineyard name in case you look for it on the map. Again, lots of inviting ripe red fruits, with a floral touch, real intensity of aroma. The structure is fine-tuned, with seductive tannins and stoney minerality holding together all the ripe raspberry and cherry fruit.

Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ‘Ecusseaux’

06 x 75cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2025

From well-located 50-year-old vines, this is full of ripe red fruits on the nose, summer berries, red cherry and sweet tannins. This is a great example of the potential here in this vineyard, displaying elegance and delicate precision. The finish is long and stoney.

CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET

Chassagne-Montrachet lies to the south of PulignyMontrachet, its much smaller neighbour. 60% of the appellation is planted with Chardonnay and 40% with Pinot Noir, though at village level those figures are 75% and 25% respectively. There used to be much more Pinot Noir than there is today, but it is more profitable to make Chardonnay as yields are higher and the wines command a much higher price. Some of the soils are clearly suited much more to one grape than the other, with the low lying, clay dominated soils to the east of the village more suitable for Pinot Noir and the rockier, limestone rich slopes to the west ideal for Chardonnay. It is one of the most dynamic villages in Burgundy with lots of exciting young growers really pushing the boundaries of quality. Stylistically the white wines tend to mix the richness of Meursault with the vibrancy of Puligny for a great combination.

• 145ha of Chassagne-Montrachet Village (108ha white - 37ha red)

• 156ha of Chassagne-Montrachet 1ers Crus (72ha white - 84ha red)

• 48 different 1ers Crus (though many are sub-sections of others and often use the more well-known name)

• 3 different Grands Crus (2 are shared with Puligny-Montrachet)

DOMAINE BRUNO COLIN

• Côte de Beaune - Chassagne-Montrachet

• Winemaker: Bruno Colin

Bruno is the brother of Philippe and the uncle of Simon so it was only logical we would begin with him! Operating out of smart, modern facilities in the heart of the village, Bruno makes wines full of character but without ever being over the top. They have a certain power but it’s kept in check and well-handled so that fruit concentration and vineyard typicity can still shine through. He has a fantastic range of wines featuring many of the great terroirs of the Côte de Beaune.

Bourgogne Chardonnay

06 x 75cl - £108 IB

From two plots of 20 and 40-year-old vines, this sees 10% new oak. This initially feels quite linear with a fresh green apple note and slightly chalky texture. This builds nicely on the palate however offering very good fruit weight without feeling heavy. A lovely introduction to the range.

Chassagne-Montrachet

06 x 75cl - £312 IB

From a blend of nine different parcels right across the village appellation, one can’t argue with this being a fair representation of the different terroirs. Just-ripe nectarine and bright citrus notes add a very nice freshness to the broader and more textured oatmeal and bacon fat profile. A great finish and very approachable already this will drink nicely on release.

Hautes

Côtes de Beaune Blanc

06 x 75cl - £138 IB

Sapid and taut with crisp green apple and preserved lemon fruit. This is quite reserved and elegant with a notably cooler feel to it than other wines in the line-up.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Charmois’

03 x 75cl - £147 IB

Lots of yellow stone fruit here with very nice ripeness. This has a powdery textural feel and a real saline quality that keeps it feeling fresh and well-tensioned. Very smart stuff.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Sentier du Clou’

03 x 75cl - £147 IB

This is the riper and more opulent of the two Saint-Aubin with brilliant concentration. Showing candied lemon, nectarine and popcorn, the rounded oak comes through a little more. Excellent balance nonetheless, thanks to a fine bead of acidity.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Chaumées’

03 x 75cl - £228 IB

Drink from 2024

Quite a creamy, savoury style with toasted hazelnut and a delicate sweet cooking spice character. This has good intensity and is still a little shy but should develop nicely in bottle.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Chenevottes’

03 x 75cl - £228 IB

Perhaps the most expressive of the 1er cru Chassagne at this stage. A lightly honied entry with ripe peach, a hint of apricot and something slightly exotic to it. This is rounded but wellsupported by good acidity. Already very enticing!

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Vergers’

03 x 75cl - £234 IB

Drink from 2025

There is serious power to this and though it’s still quite backward there is a definite stony mineral quality to it. This has impressive weight on the palate yet retains a nimble feel with lightly chalky texture and a very long finish.

Picture © Domaine Bruno Colin

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Maltroie’

03 x 75cl - £234 IB

Drink from 2025

From vines between 30-70 years old. This is still very backwards and will need some time to integrate the separate elements, though what is here is mighty indeed. Chalky, mineral and hard-edged, there is serious power here and an excellent balance of fruit intensity and acidity. This should have a very good future.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’

03 x 75cl - £240 IB

Drink from 2024

Quite supple and approachable with open-knit peach fruit and a attractive richness. A fuller-bodied style, quite generous and rich with a touch of honey and toasted oatmeal.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Boudriotte’

03 x 75cl - £240 IB

Drink from 2025

From vines between 50-70 years old. This feels powerful, perfectly ripe and quite harmonious already. Textural, rich and quite opulent while retaining a refreshing salinity in the background. Very impressive.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘En Remilly’

03 x 75cl - £294 IB

Drink from 2025

Vines of 30-60 years old and situated in an excellent position just above the Montrachets. This has a more focused, citrus fruit profile yet still manages to feel quite generous. There is lovely poise here with a hint of orange peel and white blossom. Very well-integrated oak here and a lovely lingering finish.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Blanchot Dessus’

03 x 75cl - £390 IB

Drink from 2025

Mirabelle plum fruit with a distinctly savoury and mineral petrichor character combine with cut grass to offer a very elegant and nicely detailed nose. This is restrained and intense on the palate with fine chalk-like texture. This finishes very long, reminding of the excellent position of this vineyard, right next to the Montrachets. One of the standouts of the line-up this year.

Puligny-Montrachet

03 x 75cl - £378 IB

Drink from 2025

1er Cru ‘Truffière’

Santenay Rouge Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £189 IB

Pale, lifted and perfumed, this is quite delicate and very pretty. A ripe raspberry note dominates the fruit but there is also something quite wild and a touch savoury note that adds real interest. The tannins here are quite finely textured but firm and give a good grounding to the lifted fruit. This is a delicious Santenay that will offer a lot of pleasure from the start.

Chassagne-Montrachet

Vieilles Vignes Rouge

06 x 75cl - £195 IB

Drink from 2024

Regularly the star of the show at this address, La Truffière does not disappoint this year. An immensely concentrated wine, tightly-packed with sweet yellow plum, fresh-cut green apple and an exotic white floral note. Where the nose suggests a more open, exuberant style, the palate delivers quite the opposite with racy acidity, a real sense of drive and a tightly wound, stony character. Another outstanding example of this lauded vineyard.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

06 x 75cl - £108 IB

Pale, bright and full of energy this has a lovely concentration of sweet strawberry fruit and sweet cooking spice, nicely countered with a mouth-watering acidity. This is a super Bourgogne Pinot Noir and already drinking perfectly.

Nicely ripe red berry fruits that offer a sweet but fresh summer pudding feel and combine with some lifted, exotic and floral notes of white lily. The palate here is really quite structured, offering a lovely frame of fine, chalky tannin that is very well matched by the fruit intensity. This is an excellent example of Chassagne rouge.

Santenay Rouge 1er Cru ‘Les Gravières’

06 x 75cl - £234 IB

Drink from 2025

From 34-year-old vines grown on fairly sandy soils, this shows a combination of well-ripened red and black berry fruit, and offers the most density of the red cuveés. The tannins are quite moderate here though have a charming rusticity to them that anchors the wine nicely and offers some textural intrigue. There is lovely concentration here and fine detail to the fruit. An excellent example of this vineyard.

•

DOMAINE PHILIPPE COLIN

•

Côte de Beaune - Chassagne-Montrachet

Winemaker: Philippe Colin

The inevitable succession of vineyards from Philippe to his son, Simon, happened in time for the 2021 vintage, although neither would have wished for such a decimation of the crop in this transitional year. Philippe handed over almost 9 hectares to Simon, keeping around five for himself, albeit some rather nice plots including Puligny Les Demoiselles and Chevalier Montrachet. There may not be much wine from Philippe in 2021, but what there is, has a refreshing level of bite and verve to balance out the natural intense fruit concentration of the vintage.

Chassagne-Montrachet

06 x 75cl - £228 IB

Good density of yellow plum fruit with a touch of honey and a savoury oatmeal character that lends to a classic Chassagne feel. Lovely fruit intensity and a great acidity keeps the wine focused and well-framed. 25% new oak and only four 500L barrels produced – 20% of normal.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Les Combes’

06 x 75cl - £234 IB

Drink from 2024

Intense golden apple, toasted hazelnut and a floral note of white blossom gives this an immediate appeal. The wine feels very composed and harmonious with an attractive sweet spice finish. 50% new oak and only two 500L barrels produced.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Chenevottes’

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Drink from 2025

Compared to Les Chaumées, this seems a little shyer with a more stony, citrus, aromatic profile. On the palate however there is some serious power, richness, and texture with an excellent intensity thanks to the 80-year-old vines that bore the fruit. From deep, clay-rich soils in a section of Les Chenevottes, adjacent to Le Montrachet. Only three barrels made.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

‘Les Chaumées Clos Saint-Abdon’

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Drink from 2024

An exuberant and inviting nose of baked apple and pear laced with sweet cooking spices that is tied together nicely with a firm line of acidity. Quite serious intensity here with a lively citrus finish. 100% new oak that is worn well. Only one 500L barrel produced.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Demoiselles’

03 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2026

There is some serious substance to this wine that opens with generous, ripe yellow plum and exotic white floral aromas and notable sweet spice. The fruit here feels quite intense and is built around a nice frame of acidity. 100% new oak on this cuvée that at this early stage is still quite present, though feels well-matched with the power of the wine and should integrate well with time.

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £990 IB

Drink from 2026

Just one barrel of this wine made, 30% of a normal yield, from this 0.28ha parcel of Chevalier. This is big, broad-shouldered and powerful, packed with spiced, baked orchard fruit, oatmeal and dried orange rind. A very opulent and hedonistic style held together well by firm acidity that seems to cross the palate in all directions. 100% new oak and from 40-year-old vines.

Santenay Rouge ‘Clos Saint Jean’

06 x 75cl - £138 IB

Drink from 2024

A new cuvée for the UK this year that has been made since 2019 but previously only sold in France. A fairly ripe style for the vintage with sweet black fruit that stops short of feeling confected. A slight gamey finish and lovely length. Very good value.

Chassagne-Montrachet

‘Champs de Morjot’ Rouge

06 x 75cl - £138 IB

Drink from 2025

This is the inaugural vintage for this cuvée, which was previously blended into Les Chênes. Nicely concentrated, red cherry and citrus that is mouth-watering and generous at the same time. Very morish fruit profile. Tannins are fine but quite firm and will benefit from some time in bottle but good promise here.

Picture © Domaine Philippe Colin

•

SIMON COLIN

•

Côte de Beaune - Chassagne-Montrachet

Winemaker: Simon Colin

Even despite the sobering vintage conditions and depressing volumes (70% down), there remains plenty of cause for optimism at Simon Colin. Simon’s first vintage under his own name was 2017, with the first three vintages made entirely from purchased fruit. Working with Simon since the beginning, it’s been very exciting watching the wines go from strengthto-strength, building in their definition and intensity and culminating with a super set of 2020’s. This year, however, marks a watershed with the arrival of 9.3ha (2/3) of the family vineyard holdings from Domaine Philippe Colin. Following stints in Franschhoek and Oregon, as well as with his uncle (Bruno Colin) and latterly as assistant winemaker at Etienne Sauzet, Simon already has plenty of experience. Brimming with ideas and an evident sense of direction, he is clearly delighted to now be farming his own fruit. For a less determined vigneron, skipping the 2021 vintage before a conversion to organic viticulture would be an obvious choice but Simon was clearly unphased by the challenge, beginning the three-year process of certification. An ambitious, inquisitive mind and a steady hand are equally evident in the winery. The 21’s were a real pleasure to taste from barrel and could easily have come from an established cellar with many years of experience behind it. Yet, despite the excellent quality already evident, Simon is clearly comfortable questioning and reassessing his work in the winery. For the whites, fermentation and elevage are carried out with high solids, no stirring and retention of as much of the lees as possible, with a maximum of 25% new wood. For the reds, gentle pump-overs are used to give a light infusion with 25-30% of whole bunch used in 2021. In this vintage he also began experimenting with ‘integrated fermentation’, barrel-fermenting certain reds both with and without whole cluster and SO2, which he feels give him finer tannins with better control of colour and aromatics. On both white and red, the wines are no longer filtered, meanwhile sulphur use is also being reassessed to being delayed as late as possible whilst moving to fewer, larger doses that allow overall levels to be reduced, giving the wines greater sense of purity.

Through all of these changes Simon has produced an extremely compelling set of wines that charm with their purity and definition. This young address has lost no time delivering on the considerable expectation.

Bourgogne Chardonnay

06 x 75cl - £102 IB

Drink from 2024

Nicely detailed fruit profile, golden apple and orchard fruit here, underpinned by a focused stony character and some complex sweet spice owing to 20% new oak. From two plots outside of Chassagne-Montrachet.

Chassagne-Montrachet

06 x 75cl - £270 IB

Drink from 2024

Piercing, crunchy green apple fruit makes way for something altogether broader and more savoury on the palate with an oatmeal and light gun smoke quality. A focused and driven style of Chassagne with very nice textural character to this already.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Chaumées’

06 x 75cl - £372 IB

Drink from 2026

One of the more severely impacted vineyards, Simon was able to make only seven barrels out of 1.5ha of vines this year. Made from three separate plots on steeper slopes dominated by limestone, including Clos Saint Abdon, which in a more normal year would be bottled separately. The wine has great intensity with more compact and stony fruit than the village and will benefit from a bit of time to open fully.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Vergers’

06 x 75cl - £372 IB

Drink from 2026

From a lower, less inclined site with more clay-based soils, Les Vergers is a powerful, brawny style with impressive density. Mirabelle plum, toasted nuts and bacon fat are all in abundance. Textured, dense and with brilliant length, this is very impressive.

Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge

06 x 75cl - £165 IB

Drink from 2024

A very open, pretty and charming style with perfumed ripe strawberry fruit and some light savoury spice owing to 25% of whole bunch. Very composed and approachable even at this stage, this is a lighter style very reflective of the vintage and should drink delightfully on release.

Maranges Rouge ‘La Fussière’

06 x 75cl - £174 IB

Drink from 2025

A deeper and more intense profile with darker fruit character and a little more structure than the Chassagne. There is a notable black cherry and violet profile with a little liquorice spice and a slightly wild edge. From a 0.5ha plot in the upper part of Fussière that gives small dense bunches of fruit.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’

06 x 75cl - £288 IB

Drink from 2025

Les Brussonnes is a plot on the Santenay side at the bottom of Morgeots situated on iron-rich, heavy soils that are better suited to Pinot Noir than Chardonnay. Once again, a very pretty red-fruited profile with impressive intensity and a fine, firm tannin structure that indicates real substance. 40% whole bunch used.

•

ARMAND HEITZ

•

Côte de Beaune - Chassagne-Montrachet

Winemaker: Armand Heitz

This domaine, which has gone by the name of Armand Heitz since the 2019 vintage (previously Heitz-Lochardet), now comprises of 23ha, with 6ha located in Juliénas. Having gradually resumed control of many of the well-positioned and mature family vineyards that had previous been leased to Maison Drouhin, Armand Heitz has been undertaking a quiet revolution from his base on the edge of Chassagne-Montrachet. One only need glance at the multiple projects simultaneously on-the-go to get a sense of Armand’s indefatigable character and the holistic approach he’s aiming to bring to his work. This now includes farming crops, sheep and cattle alongside the vines, and there is even a smart little shop and tasting room established in Pommard, selling the full range of Heitz wares should you ever find yourself stranded in the village and in need of sustenance! In the vineyard, work is carried out according to biodynamic principals with preparations produced on the farm and there is a clear regenerative ethos underpinning the whole project. There is plenty of experimentation going on here too, such as a move of the regional wines (currently the only vineyards legally permitted), to wider 2.2m vine spacing that better supports a ‘no till’ approach which leaves the soil microflora and fauna undisturbed. The wines in 2021 were a pleasure to taste. The reds lighter in style than in recent years but with impressive intensity and exuberant, lifted fruit. Meanwhile, the whites generally showed a very attractive richness and weight.

Bourgogne Blanc

06 x 75cl - £105 IB

This contains 5% of both Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris and comes from vines located next to Pommard. This is rounded and nicely textured with a golden apple, pear and lemon citrus profile. Quite broad and gourmand in style, this is drinking very well already.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘La Maltroie’

06 x 75cl - £492 IB

Drink from 2024

From a 0.7ha plot of vines planted between 1960 and 2000, this has super concentration and is open, very inviting, and generous already. Quince, pear and golden apple with a touch of toasty spice from the wood that while not obtrusive, will benefit from a little time to integrate. A fairly hedonistic Chassagne with very good length.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Perrières’

06 x 75cl - £840 IB

Drink from 2025

Very intense and quite firm with a touch of reduction. There is a lot of power here and whilst initially it feels a little rounder than some Perrières there is an undeniable sense of minerality. Very long and with a stony, textured finish.

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £2100 IB

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

06 x 75cl - £105 IB

Pommard ‘Vaumuriens’

06 x 75cl - £330 IB

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’

06 x 75cl - £492 IB

Drink from 2025

Diminutive volumes mean this year there is just one cuveé of Morgeot that includes the fruit usually destined for the Tête du Clos bottling. This is broad and concentrated with well defined nectarine fruit and a touch of honey. The wood sits a little prominently still but given the power of fruit to back it up, there is nothing out of place here.

Pommard 1er Cru ‘Pézerolles’

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

Drink from 2025

From a 0.6ha plot, Pézerolles lies close to the Beaune border and is normally one of the first red vineyards to be picked. Stylistically this cru contrasts with the archetype of Pommard and offers an open, aromatic and pretty style that needn’t slumber in the cellar for years before enjoying. This shows all the charm one would expect from this vineyard with pretty rose petal and spiced strawberry fruit. There is mouth-filling fruit with a broad sweep of fine, firm tannin.

Picture © Domaine Heitz-Lochardet

Pommard 1er Cru ‘Clos des Poutures’

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

Drink from 2025

A 0.66ha monopole with vines up to 60 years. There is 20% new oak here along with full whole bunch use. Despite lying just below Rugiens, the style here is really quite open, generous and almost flamboyant. There is a lovely concentration of detailed red fruit supported by fine powdery tannin and a long haunting finish. This is excellent.

Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Monts Luisants’

06 x 75cl - £720 IB

Drink from 2025

From a section of the vineyard with thin topsoil and better suited to reds according to Technical Director François Lécaillon. This has a real richness to it, showing a combination of red, black and even blue fruit that has quite a glossy, exotic feel. The tannins here are sweet and fine, contributing to an overall suave feel.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Chaumes’

03 x 75cl - £570 IB

Echezeaux Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £1200 IB

Drink from 2026

With 30% whole bunch use, this has a very pale, strawberry red hue and continues as suggested with a profile red berry compote and layered sweet spices. There is great definition here too with a crisp acidity that keeps the wine poised and elegant. An open and very inviting style.

Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £1350 IB

•

DOMAINE THOMAS MOREY

Côte de Beaune - Chassagne-Montrachet

• Winemaker: Thomas Morey

We were lucky enough to inherit the wines of Thomas Morey when we purchased Domaine Direct back in 2020 and we have loved the wines ever since. They reflect the physical energy and dynamism of the man himself. Along with his brother, Vincent, Thomas took over his share of his father, Bernard’s, domaine fifteen years ago. He likes to pick early and accentuate the raciness and definition of his various terroirs. He uses new oak sensibly and sparingly, not wanting its character to dominate. The wines are a delight and a very welcome addition to our strong Chassagne range. Again volumes are way down in 2021 and will need to be carefully allocated.

Bourgogne Chardonnay

06 x 75cl - £114 IB

Drink from 2025

This is a blend of fruit from six different parcels and has a lovely mouth-watering touch of austerity about it, though it will soon fill out given that the wine had been bottled only six weeks before we tasted it. Lively, stony and tingly to the tastebuds.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Les Combes’

06 x 75cl - £198 IB

Drink from 2025

From a plot of 60-year-old vines which lies next to Les Chenevottes, a 1er Cru in Chassagne-Montrachet. Again, quite stony but there is also excellent weight and length here..

Chassagne-Montrachet Village

06 x 75cl - £225 IB

Drink from 2025

Arguably the least frost impacted wine in the cellar with only around 10% lost.Lovely bite and drive and very clean.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Macherelles’

06 x 75cl - £258 IB

Drink from 2026

An appealing hint of reduction here adds a touch of smoke and flint. Excellent drive and energy from one of Chassagne’s lesser knows 1ers Crus.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Chenevottes’ 06 x 75cl - £270 IB

Drink from 2026

Not completely disimilar to the Macherelles which is perhaps not surprising as they are neighbours on the northern side of the village. Stone, reduction, energy, and bite all feature strongly here.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Baudines’ 06 x 75cl - £276 IB

Drink from 2026

Everyone seems to have lost a lot of Baudines and Thomas was no exception with 60% the official figure for him. It’s a shame as the wine is lovely. Quite angular with lovely transparency and level of dry extract. Savoury, tense and moreish.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Clos Saint-Jean’

06 x 75cl - £276 IB

Drink from 2025

This was very ‘en place’already back in the autumn, showing nice balance and purity. One to attack early whilst the others are maturing more slowly.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’ 06 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2026

Thomas is the perfect man to make Morgeot. His early picking and crystalline approach in the cellar make the perfect foil for Morgeot’s nautral earthy richness.

Picture © Jon Wyand

DOMAINE THOMAS MOREY

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Embrazées’

06 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2026

From the vineyard very much associated with his family, this is a delight. It has been organic since 2015 and he feels the vineyard has been the most progressive amongst all those in his care. Stony and lean with a lovely mouth-watering quality. Excellent.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Vide-Bourse’

03 x 75cl - £228 IB

Drink from 2027

There isn’t much of this, but it is bloody good. Taut, with good levels of dry extract. Backward, youthful, and full of promise. Not a wine to be rushed.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Truffière’

03 x 75cl - £228 IB

Drink from 2027

Very racy and stony. Stylistically there is very little to differentiate these two wines other than that one has Chassagne intensity and the other Puligny panache. Both are simply great.

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £810 IB

Drink from 2028

The refinement continues on in to the Batard, which is traditionally associated with breadth and power. This is very elegant and very cultured.

Santenay Rouge Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £144 IB

Maranges 1er Cru ‘La Fussière’

06 x 75cl - £144 IB

Santenay Rouge 1er Cru ‘Grand Clos Rousseau’

06 x 75cl - £168 IB

•

DOMAINE BERNARD MOREAU

Côte de Beaune - Chassagne-Montrachet

• Winemaker: Alex Moreau

It’s been all change at Moreau in the last couple of years with Alex now running the domaine on his own, following the departure of brother Benoît, who decided to go it alone. But fans of Alex need not to worry: The wines are just as gorgeous as ever. Most of the cuvees are still being made, although in a vintage like 2021, not in any great volume thanks to the cruel April frosts. Alex has always had the remarkable ability to fashion wines that both seduce in youth and age with nobility. These 2021s will be more fine examples, with the wines showing great fruit intensity and wonderful minerality with no little sense of dry extract.

Bourgogne Blanc

12 x 75cl - £282 IB

Drink from 2024

Always so reliable, most of this wine is made from vines from a parcel near Corpeau just outside Chassagne. An 8.30am kick off with Alex and the wine is open, fresh and lively on the nose. Really clean and pure on the palate, with nice weight and poise, good texture and refreshing acidity. A great start to the day.

Chassagne-Montrachet

06 x 75cl - £354 IB

Drink from 2024

For me this is the flagship wine of the estate. If you are trying to understand quintessential Chassagne try a bottle of this and compare it with the village wines of Thomas Morey and Thierry Pillot, and you will be on a good path. Lots of minerality on the nose, the palate has a richness and fleshly mouthfeel, broad structure with tension and energy giving lift and excitement.

Puligny-Montrachet

06 x 75cl - £384 IB

Drink from 2024

I love this wine, it is such a good expression of Puligny with Alex’s signature! Stoney on the nose, like the smell after it has rained for the first time in a while. Good density and texture on the palate as you would expect and with focus and laserlike precision, a linear style, with drive and intensity.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’

03 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2026

One of the most famous vineyards of Chassagne and there are many lieu-dits within it, certainly a great terroir. As discussed already there is a paucity of wine in 2021, and Alex only had one tonneau of 350L of Morgeot, not leaving much for the fans of this wine worldwide to fight over. Fruit forward, with intensity, white peach, apricot stone, great concentration and purity. It’s a wine that feels tonic and lively, textured and persistent. Bravo!

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Chenevottes’

03 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2026

A vineyard on the Puligny side of the village, which is quite large with many producers making this wine, it’s fun to see the different results. In 2021, Alex has made a lovely Chenevottes: textured, racy acidity, lime peel, honey dew melon, rounded and supple, with lots of energy right to the finish.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘La Maltroie’ 03 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2026

This was jumping out of the glass – tasting from barrel and tank can often be challenging but some wines just seem to be ready and this Maltoie was really showing off: ripe fruit, stoney, very mineral, the palate had bright acidity, saline and salivating. Oysters for breakfast anyone?

Picture © Simon Owen

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Grandes Ruchottes’

03 x 75cl - £492 IB

Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £1650 IB

Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £216 IB

Drink from 2024 Alex loves making Pinot Noir – I can always see a twinkle in his eye when discussing them and I think he was happy to get back to a more classic Pinot vintage. Paler in colour than the big 2020’s, this has ripe red cherry, raspberry fruit, juicy but with good grip, smooth tannins, already plumping out nicely in the mid-palate. Pinot purity and elegance.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘La Cardeuse’ Monopole 06 x 75cl - £468 IB

•

DOMAINE COFFINET-DUVERNAY

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Côte de Beaune - Chassagne-Montrachet

Winemaker: Bastien Duvernay

The cool, laid back Bastien has now taken the reins from his father Philippe. The domaine was established back in 1989 when Laura, the daughter of Fernand Coffinet and Cecile Pillot, married Philppe and took her share of the vineyards with her. Bastien has a great set of vineyards in his pocket and his casual demeanour belies his level of ambition and talent, both of which he has in spades. The wines are really nicely defined, quite compact and very expressive of their geographical origins, highlighting the wonderful nuances of the various plots. Oak plays a minor role here and the wines are airy and dynamic. Small volumes obviously in 2021 but very much worth seeking out.

Bourgogne Aligoté

06 x 75cl - £78 IB Chassagne-Montrachet 06 x 75cl - £216 IB

Drink from 2025

A very impressive village wine showing a sumptuous mix of stone, smoke and spice. Lively, compact and very harmonious.

Chassagne-Montrachet

‘Les Blanchots Dessous’ 06 x 75cl - £246 IB

Drink from 2026

One of Chassagne’s top village plots, this is richer than the ‘basic’ village wine, offering an extra dimension to what was already a top wine.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Maltroie’ 03 x 75cl - £150 IB

Drink from 2026

A fairly classical Maltroie, being open and full flavoured (not heavy) yet with a salty, citrussy element on the back palate and a touch of spice.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Clos Saint Jean’ 03 x 75cl - £156 IB

Drink from 2026

The soil in Clos St Jean is equally suited to both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay though exactly where one’s plot lies within the vineyard can make the difference. Bastien’s bit sits a little higher up and suits Chardonnay well, though the concentration of the vintage adds an extra level of weight and power.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Champgains’ 03 x 75cl - £162 IB

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Grands Clos’

03 x 75cl - £162 IB

Drink from 2026

The first of two lieu dit-specific 1ers Crus from Morgeot, the huge vineyard with varying aspects and soil types. This is fairly typcially Morgeot in style with just a bit of extra bite and energy to offset the natural richness of the vineyard.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Fairendes’

03 x 75cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2027

Fairendes is the second wine from one of the many lieu dits of the vast Morgeot 1er Cru situated in the highest part of the vineyard where the limestone is more conspicuous. A hint of reduction works really nicely and the wine has excellent bite and tension. A seriously good example.

Picture © Simon John Owen

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Caillerets’

03 x 75cl - £210 IB

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Blanchots Dessus’ 03 x 75cl - £240 IB

Drink from 2028

Great energy here; it really zings with dynamism and purity. Very long with great nuance and balance.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Dent de Chien’ 03 x 75cl - £300 IB

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 03 x 75cl - £780 IB

Drink from 2028

This is a really fine example of a Batard, tending towards the elegant rather than the broad and masculine. Refined, complex, long and very cultured. Impressive.

Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge

‘Les Voillenots’

06 x 75cl - £129 IB

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MAISON PIERRE BRISSET

Côte de Beaune - Bligny-lès-Beaune

Winemaker: Pierre Brisset

Pierre Brisset operates out of the communal shared winery in the quiet village of Bligny-les-Beaune, not far from Volnay. Here, various young winemakers share equipment, space and no doubt ideas, as they strive to make a name for themselves. Pierre owns a few small but enviable plots, the pick perhaps being the Chassagne 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot, and augments the range with a little fruit he buys in. This is a pretty artisanal operation at the best of times and the devastation of the April frosts has only made it more so, with just one barrel of the Chassagne being made.. Still better to have one lovely barrel than lots of mediocre ones!

Bourgogne Chardonnay ‘Cuvée Cassanéas’

06 x 75cl - £150 IB

Drink from 2024

This comes from a blend of fruit from Meursault and Chassagne and with seven barrels it is an important cuvée in the range. This was bottled in August, in order to maximise the freshness of the fruit and it just needs a little time to refocus and come together. Nicely handled.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Sous la Roche Dumay’

06 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2026

There is only one 350L barrel and one 228L barrel of this which equates to about only 750 bottles in total, which is not much for the whole world!. It used to be called Sur Gamay but the name was changed thanks to confusion with the grape variety. The vineyard is a good one and has imparted a level of minerality into the wine that blends with the fruit intensity and purity. Nice control and harmony.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Abbaye de Morgeot’ 06 x 75cl - £450 IB

Drink from 2026

The vines are between the Abbey and Vignes Blanches and the wine is particularly mineral for a Morgeot. Pierre made just one barrel of this from his quarter of a hectare which is a staggeringly small amount. It’s going be fun allocating this out!

Bourgogne Côte d’Or Pinot Noir

06 x 75cl - £150 IB

Drink from 2024

The fruit for this comes from Savigny and Corgolin (located between Savigny-les-Beaune and Nuits-Saint-Georges) and it’s wonderfully bright and crunchy with quite delicate extraction and very much on the red fruit spectrum. Very pretty and good value.

Picture © Maison Pierre Brisset

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET

Sandwiched between Meursault to the north and Chassagne-Montrachet to the south. Historically the high water table in Puligny meant that many vineyard owners did not bottle their own production as they had no cellars in which to keep the wines and were forced to sell off their fruit to négociants. Even today, it seems to be a village where very few new producers are cropping up, certainly not to the same degree as in other villages at least. On the plus side, it’s home to some of the greatest white wine vineyards in the world and land prices, on the rare occasions that a few rows are sold, make this some of the most expensive soil anywhere in the world. Puligny is known for the delicatesse and vibrancy of its wines, which are about complexity, length and nuances.

• 119ha of Puligny-Montrachet Village

• 89ha of Puligny-Montrachet 1ers Crus (of which 1 hectare is red!)

• 20ha of Grands Crus

• 17 different 1ers Crus

• 4 different Grands Crus (2 are shared with Chassagne-Montrachet)

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DOMAINE PERNOT-BELICARD

• Côte de Beaune - Puligny Montrachet

Winemaker: Philippe Pernot

Philippe Pernot felt inclined to give a particularly candid assessment of 2021 that ‘started badly with frost and ended badly with mildew’. Yet, despite the ominous appraisal, he was pleased with the fruits of the vintage which were impressive to taste, showing excellent energy and classicism. This year, certain vineyards were decimated and neither Beaune 1er Cru nor Puligny ‘Champ-Gain’ were made, with the latter blended with the village Puligny.

Bourgogne ‘Côte d’Or’ Blanc

06 x 75cl - £96 IB

Drink from 2024

Made from eight different parcels on the edge of Puligny, this is quite pretty and shows a very nice balance of golden fruit and acid structure. The mix of vineyards give a very complete feel to the wine, highlighting the various nuances that the different vineyards bring to the glass. Harmonious and well balanced.

Meursault Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £264 IB

Drink from 2024

From two parcels of 50-year-old and 80-year-old vines respectively, totalling 0.65 hectares, this shows impressive concentration and some interesting detail even at this early stage. Some nice weight on the palate but focused and fresh. 20% new oak that is very well integrated. This should drink early on but has plenty of stuffing to last. Plenty to come.

Puligny-Montrachet

06 x 75cl - £276 IB

Drink from 2025

Eight different plots from across the village here, giving a good range of terroirs. This is a linear and nicely focused style of Puligny with a clear mineral, oyster shell character coming through. Underripe nectarine and a hint of orange rind with a nice sapid quality. On the austere side at the moment but excellent length and should fill out nicely.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Perrières’

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

Drink from 2025

From vines planted in 1955 this plot runs across the contour of the vineyard. This is a stoney, mineral and potent style that feels like a coiled spring at this stage. Firm acidity with very long length that shows an oyster shell flourish on the finish. This will reward a bit of patience.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Champ Canet’

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

Drink from 2025

This is such a nice vineyard, lying just above Les Combettes on the border of Meursault. The vines are now reaching an interesting age and have fashioned a wine of good weight and concentration. This is still a touch austere at this stage with a light smokey reductive note. Nicely done.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Perrières’

06 x 75cl - £600 IB

Drink from 2026

From vines planted in 1974, this has a distinctive chalky, mineral quality with a well-judged, subtle toasty character. Plenty to come. Sadly, volumes are tiny!

Picture © Domaine Pernot-Belicard

DOMAINE ETIENNE SAUZET

• Côte de Beaune - Puligny-Montrachet

• Winemaker: Benoît Riffault

We had a great tasting with Benoît Riffault, even though we shared his pain at the lack of wine in the cellars. The style of the vintage really suited the style of his wines, allowing him to perfectly reflect the subtle differences of the multitude of Crus that he has the pleasure of owning. This is a really successful set of wines that are a credit to his talents. He lost 55% overall but at 1er Cru level a depressing 80%!

Bourgogne Chardonnay

06 x 75cl - £144 IB

Drink from 2024

From three parcels in the village of Puligny, a great introduction to the 2021s from Benoît. Fresh, clean, and pure with lovely lime and lemon, good acidity with a long saline finish.

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune

06 x 75cl - £165 IB

Drink from 2024

Fresh and floral, with real purity and intensity; razor sharp and energetic with salivating acidity and tension. A great wine that shows the potential of less fashionable areas for Chardonnay, particularly in the right hands.

Puligny-Montrachet

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Drink from 2025

Benoît explained that he loves how this wine expresses the terroir of Puligny, as it is an assemblage of twelve parcels from seven climats across the village. A touch of reduction on the nose, but full of intensity and energy on the palate. Good concentration and richness of fruit on the palate all delivered with focus and clean lines. Mineral and stoney with all the finesse you would expect from a top class Puligny.

Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Encégnières’

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Drink from 2026

From one of the very best village sites in Chassagne, this is a little bit richer than the Puligny though it feels like it’s all in hiding at the moment. But the structure and dry extract are both very evident suggesting a very bright future.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Garenne’ 06 x 75cl - £510 IB

Drink from 2026

Very discreet on the nose from this vineyard that is actually located in the hamlet of Blagny. The flavour profile starts with citrus notes, lemon peel and lime skin, with more melon and white peach on the palate too. Very elegant and subtle with a long finish.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Perrières’ 03 x 75cl - £318 IB

Drink from 2026

This feels more expressive and together at this stage of its life, with excellent harmony and balance. Good concentration and quite well stuffed, especially for Perrières.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Referts’ 03 x 75cl - £318 IB

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Champ Canet’ 03 x 75cl - £336 IB

Drink from 2027

Lovely floral nose, again bright fruit, lemon and lime, acacia melon and ripe peach. As you would expect from a vineyard next to a quarry. A lot of minerality too; wet stone that drives through the palate, a touch of smokiness and good tension and bright acidity. Top drawer. Drink from 2027

Picture © Simon John Owen

Puligny-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Terroirs de Blagny’ 03 x 75cl - £390 IB

Drink from 2027

With the small volumes for some of the Crus, Benoît decided to blend together Hameau de Blagny, Champ Gains and Truffière to make this one-off (hopefully!) cuvée. At this stage it’s perhaps less together than one or two of the others but another winter will put it just where it needs to be. Plenty of energy and drive to support the taut yet bulging mid-palate.

Puligny-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Folatières En La Richarde’ 03 x 75cl - £396 IB

Puligny-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Combettes’ 03 x 75cl - £396 IB

Drink from 2027

One of my all-time favourite vineyards for Chardonnay in the world. In 2021 Benoît has nailed it again; the nose is subtle with stone fruits and citrus notes but the palate shows all the richness you would expect from a great Combettes. Along with fruit there were touches of fresh herbs, maybe camomile and lemon thyme too. The volume is impressive but keeping that finesse and elegance you would expect from great Puligny 1er Cru. The finish is concentrated and long. Bravo Benoît!

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 03 x 75cl - £1500 IB

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 03 x 75cl - £1500 IB

Montrachet Grand Cru 03 x 75cl - £2580 IB

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DOMAINE JEAN-MARC BOILLOT

Côte de Beaune - Pommard

• Winemaker: Lydie & François Boillot

Jean-Marc Boillot was winemaker at Olivier Leflaive when he inherited some great parcels from his grandfather, Etienne Sauzet, setting up on his own and adding various plots along the way. Today his daughter, Lydie and son-in-law, François run the 10-hectare domaine in Pommard and make a stylish and balanced range of both red and white wines.

Mâcon Chardonnay ‘Les Busserettes’

12 x 75cl - £252 IB

Drink from 2023

Clean and open, fresh, fruity, with melon, citrus and good acidity and length.

Meursault

06 x 75cl - £282 IB

Drink from 2024

Bright, fresh lime and lemon, with nectarine on the nose, good concentration and refreshing acidity. Lots of energy and excitement on the mid-palate. A real zest for life glass of wine.

Puligny-Montrachet 06 x 75cl - £282 IB

Drink from 2024

Assembled from seven parcels across the village, this wine has a lovely nose of white flowers and apple blossoms, moving into a wet stone aroma. The palate is lively and fresh, with good intensity and fruit concentration. Linear and precise with a long mineral finish.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Referts’

03 x 75cl - £174 IB

Drink from 2025

Quite discreet on the nose, with good tension and minerality but strong and concentrated too. Lots of minerality and great acidity and streamlined structure. The finish is intense, salivating, and long.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Champ Canet’ 03 x 75cl - £198 IB

Drink from 2025

A very mineral nose, stoney with lime zest, a lot of concentration and texture. The acidity is lively and the palate is layered and complex with all the finesse and focus you could want. Linear and taut with drive through to a long finish, leaving you wanting more.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Combettes’

03 x 75cl - £228 IB Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £630 IB

Picture © Simon John Owen

DOMAINE JEAN-MARC PILLOT

• Côte de Beaune - Chassagne-Montrachet

• Winemaker: Jean-Marc & Antoine Pillot

Jean-Marc’s son Antoine is now very much a part of the fold here and his youthful impetus has given the estate a fresh injection of passion and ambition, tangibly highlighted by the smart new tasting room above the winery. Like everywhere, the domaine was hit very badly by frost and some wines have just not been made at all this year. However, the tasting itself although shorter than usual, was a very positive one with the wines showing lovely intensity and bite, plenty of dry extract and fruit. We like where this domaine is heading.

Chassagne-Montrachet

06 x 75cl - £222 IB

Drink from 2025

All domaine fruit here and really rather impressive. Salty, lively with moreish sapidity. Fighting above its level.

Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Noyers Brets’

06 x 75cl - £228 IB

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Macherelles’

06 x 75cl - £300 IB Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘La Maltroie’

06 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2026

Tiny volumes here and plenty of rich, full-flavoured fruit as befits a Maltroie. No new oak but then there was only one barrel!

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Les Macherelles’ Rouge

06 x 75cl - £186 IB

Drink from 2025

Plenty of lush, expressive fruit with the emphasis on red fruits and a touch of earth. Structurally quite restrained but nicely in proportion.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Clos Saint Jean’ Rouge

06 x 75cl - £324 IB

Drink from 2026

Very old vines here (100 years old) which were a little less affected than some by frost as they were less advanced, but even so only four barrels instead of the usual eight or nine were made. The fruit profile is quite light and dainty but intense and long at the same time. Lovely texture, great tannin structure and integration. Impressive effort.

Picture © Jon Wyand

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DOMAINE DE MONTILLE & MAISON DE MONTILLE

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Côte de Beaune - Meursault

Winemaker: Brian Sieve

A confident set of wines from de Montille in 2021, with winemaker Brian easing off the level of whole bunch a touch but not afraid to use stems where he felt the maturity was good and when the wine would really benefit. When we tasted in November the wines were just coming into themselves quite nicely, having undergone malo relatively late. Sadly, some tiny volumes here, perhaps the worst hit wine being the Saint-Aubin ‘En Remilly’ which managed a measly 7 barrels instead of the 44 it produced in 2020! Having said that, the whites have excellent fruit intensity and a nice level of dry extract, whilst the reds showed a lovely mix of ripe aromatics and energy giving tannins.

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘En Remilly’

12 x 75cl - £552 IB

Drink from 2024

This famous vineyard of St Aubin, with its steep slopes and southerly exposition was decimated by the frosts (85% down this year). The resulting wine from this low crop is very good; Brian talked about the hard work in this steep plot to get any grapes. The wine is fresh, with some citrus and apple character, and a touch of honeydew melon. Really focused, with purity and good acid and a long finish. Should drink well early but with potential to age.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Porusots’

06 x 75cl - £540 IB 03 x 150cl - £558 IB

Drink from 2025

A slightly cooler site than Genevrières and this makes for a precise style. In 2021 the wine is very focused, taut and mineral; lots of citrus and stone fruit flavour with an energy and tension and a long finish.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Le Cailleret’

03 x 75cl - £450 IB

Drink from 2026

Another top terroir bordering the Montrachet and below Chevalier; very stoney and full of limestone with a good aspect bettered only by the Grand Crus beside it. The wine is showing a smokey nose with stoniness and minerality. Very saline and with sublime structure, the palate has richness with purity and an elegant, long finish.

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £480 IB 03 x 150cl - £990 IB

Drink from 2027

This wine has an intense nose of crushed rocks, a touch of lees, and a lot of tension on the palate. Salty and stoney, with a smokey, rich middle, the density and power are easy to see but with a focus and linear structure holding it all together.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

12 x 75cl - £276 IB

Drink from 2024

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Perrières’

03 x 75cl - £450 IB

Drink from 2026

In good years I can see the argument for Grand Cru status. This 2021 is showing really well, with a note of reduction, struck match, flinty, lovely fruit concentration and density; great minerality. On the palate it has salivating acidity, mouth-watering stoniness and very exciting to taste.

This was racked two months ago and then put in tank. Really fresh and floral; red flowers, ripe red fruits, crunchy with a soft juicy mid-palate. Great energy and length.

Pommard ‘Cras’

06 x 75cl - £282 IB

Drink from 2025

A lovely terroir with lots of limestone with clay and iron deposits. This wine has already been racked and will be bottled soon. The nose is fragrant and red fruited, a great texture throughout, a stoney minerality and a long finish.

Picture © Domaine de Montille

Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Sizies’

06 x 75cl - £282 IB

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Mitans’

06 x 75cl - £708 IB

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Taillepieds’

06 x 75cl - £750 IB

03 x 150cl - £768 IB

Drink from 2026

From one of the most famous Volnay vineyards. Located in the upper slopes with a high limestone content in the clay, this Taillepieds is full of fruit concentration as you would expect with low yields around 15hl/ha. About two-thirds whole bunch too. Lots of red berry fruit intensity and fine grain tannins, with structure and a high-toned mineral finish.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Aux Malconsorts’

03 x 75cl - £1020 IB

03 x 150cl - £2100 IB

Drink from 2027

This sought after wine from de Montille is from vines with an average of 65 years old, Malconsorts is one of the great 1er Cru vineyards in Burgundy. A glorious wine given the difficulties of the vintage, almost creamy dark red berry fruit character, concentration with good tannins and minerality but so smooth, silky and velvety on the palate. A real showstopper which will age but like many wines from 2021 will give lots of pleasure early too.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Aux Malconsorts’

Christiane

03 x 75cl - £1650 IB

03 x 150cl - £3390 IB

Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £990 IB

03 x 150cl - £1020 IB

Drink from 2026

A proper GC terroir of Corton, around 300 metres and plenty of limestone under the complex marl, sand and stones. This wine has plenty fruit, mostly red fruits (cherry and raspberry), giving good concentration in the middle and plenty of volume and depth, fine grain tannins, textured and smooth with a long finish.

MAISON DE MONTILLE

Rully Blanc

12 x 75cl - £348 IB

Montagny 1er Cru ‘Les Coères’

12 x 75cl - £360 IB

Drink from 2023

This is the largest Premier Cru vineyard in Montagny and Montille have a sizable parcel of 30-year-old vines on rich clay and limestone. The wine displays a tree fruit nose with white peach. Very streamlined and with good energy and tension, nice minerality on the finish.

MEURSAULT

Meursault is the first major white wine village heading south from Beaune, sandwiched between Volnay and Puligny-Montrachet. Meursault has about the same number of total hectares as Chassagne but its ratio of 2/3 village to 1/3 1er Cru is much greater than Chassagne’s roughly 50/50 split. It has near enough the same amount of 1er Cru as Puligny but almost twice as much villages. However, it has a string of unofficially termed 2emes Crus, which are lieu dit village parcels that verge on 1er Cru quality. The style of Meursault has changed quite a bit over the past twenty years. The typical rich, oaky, buttery Meursaults of yesteryear are very much museum pieces these days, with the latest crop of winemakers focussing more on the potential minerality and raciness of the wines. There are no Grands Crus in Meursault though the 1er Cru Perrieres can produce wines of that level in the right hands.

• 197ha of Meursault Village (6% red)

• 97ha of Meursault 1ers Crus (1% white)

• No Grand Cru Meursault

• Officially 18 different Meursault 1ers Crus (but many can use the Volnay appellation, which is much better known for red wines)

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DOMAINE ANTOINE JOBARD

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Côte de Beaune - Meursault

Winemaker: Antoine Jobard

Antoine Jobard has done a grand job with his 2021s. Like so many in the village, his vineyards were devasted by the frosts and he lost up to 80% in places. It made choosing the right date to pick a more challenging task than usual thanks to the variation in maturity of the various plots and even the various bunches from within said plots. But Antoine is patient and he gradually warmed to the wines he was making as they gained poise, definition, and intensity during their élevage. He is not a big user of new oak and used even less than usual, giving the wines the freedom to express their character and the time to do so. Small volumes but excellent wines.

Meursault

06 x 75cl - £372 IB

Drink from 2026

No single vineyard Meursault were made in 2021, as what little fruit there was, it was collectively put into this village blend. Arguably, this is just that little bit more intense than usual as a result.

Bourgogne Blanc 06 x 75cl - £156 IB Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Sur le Sentier du Clou’ 06 x 75cl - £372 IB

Drink from 2025

Like so much of the Saint-Aubin appellation this was terribly hit by frost but what remained has produced a lovely, lively, stone-infused Chardonnay of real substance and vibrancy.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Genevrières’ 03 x 75cl - £648 IB

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Blagny’ 06 x 75cl - £690 IB

Drink from 2026

A little further up the slope and a little less frost damaged. This is quite backward and the citrussy, zingy elements really come to the fore at this stage. It should evolve really nicely.

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DOMAINE TESSIER

• Côte de Beaune - Meursault

Winemaker: Catherine & Arnaud Tessier

Married couple Catherine and Arnaud Tessier live and breathe their domaine, working hard in the vineyards and putting huge amounts of passion into their winemaking. A vintage like 2021 therefore hits them especially hard as they give so much of themselves to their work. Yet, despite the morale-challenging season, they have managed to create some wonderfully vibrant and racy 2021s, which really dance on the palate. With quantities down by almost 80% they only used three new barrels for the entire crop and focused on accentuating the natural stoniness of their plots. One piece of good news amongst the gloom of small volumes, normally they sell off a good chunk of their fruit from their three hectares of Bourgogne in Puligny but we persuaded them to let us buy most of it so we have a lovely chunk of lively Bourgogne to share out.

Bourgogne Blanc ‘Côte d’Or’

06 x 75cl - £120 IB

Drink from 2025

This is from a couple of sizeable plots totalling 2.5 hectares and normally much of it is sold off en vrac to help with cashflow, but we decided to stick our hand up early for it and bought sixteen barrels worth! Aged in mainly older barrels, this is lively and incisive, showing good raciness in keeping with the character of Puligny, where a good chunk of the vines are from.

Bourgogne Blanc ‘Champ Perrier’

06 x 75cl - £135 IB

Drink from 2025

Champ Perrier lies close to Puligny but this is quite a rich and open style of Bourgogne, perhaps more reminscent of Meursault than Puligny. The vibrancy of the wine arrives once the palate has been seduced by the weight of fruit and leaves everything tingling and wanting for more.

Meursault

06 x 75cl - £276 IB

Drink from 2025

Still in its infancy but this village blend, from several different parcels, shows real promise. Nice vibrancy throughout and good fruit concentration, it just needs to develop a touch more nuance over the next eighteen months and it will be ready to go.

Meursault ‘Les Casse-Têtes’

06 x 75cl - £324 IB 03 x 150cl - £342 IB

Drink from 2025

This was very badly hit by the frost, with only three barrels being made rather than the usual sixteen! Consequently, it’s a little richer than usual on the attack but then the tension, acidity and stoniness all kick in as the palate evolves and ignite the taste buds.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Le Poruzot Dessus’

06 x 75cl - £492 IB 03 x 150cl - £510 IB

Drink from 2026

A real mix of vine age in this Cru, varying from as young as 8 years old, through to 80 and even some that are 100 years old. This is still pretty backward and shows the citric liveliness one often finds in Poruzots. Again, time will allow the wine to fill out and develop in a very positive and enriching way.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Charmes Dessus’

06 x 75cl - £492 IB 03 x 150cl - £510 IB

Drink from 2027

As one might expect this is a touch richer than the Poruzots yet the emphasis is still very much on the virbrant and mouthwatering, steely fruit flavours that energise the palate. As usual the oak is very much hidden away and the purity of the wine comes through beautifully.

Picture © Domaine Tessier

DOMAINE MATROT

• Côte de Beaune - Meursault

• Winemaker: Elsa & Adèle Matrot

Sisters Elsa and Adèle Matrot took over the family domaine in Meursault in 2016 and have brought a vibrancy and fresh perspective to the estate and its wines. The estate is run organically and both red and whites from this domaine are now worth seeking. There is a lightness of touch to the wines with new oak minimally used and extraction kept to a minimum. The sisters are rightly pleased with what they have achieved in this vintage, the wines showing excellent balance and harmony across the range.

Meursault

06 x 75cl - £276 IB

Drink from 2025

This village Meursault didn’t fair too badly volume wise, with yields as high as 26 hectolitres per hectare but it’s still quite backward and open to improvement. Lovely purity throughout and plenty of promise overall.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Combettes’

06 x 75cl - £342 IB

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’

06 x 75cl - £342 IB

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Charmes’

06 x 75cl - £480 IB

Drink from 2026

Quite citrusy on the nose with plenty of stone and white flowers. Saline, rich, but not excessively so, and a rather impressive take on the humble village wine.

Corton-Charlemagne

06 x 75cl - £600 IB

Bourgogne Rouge

06 x 75cl - £108 IB

Drink from 2024

This comes from youngish vineyards found mainly in Puligny. It’s pretty crunchy and very much on the red rather than black fruit spectrum. No new oak and quite linear and appealing.

Meursault Rouge

06 x 75cl - £174 IB

Blagny 1er Cru ‘Sous le Bois’

06 x 75cl - £264 IB

Drink from 2026

Although this has an enviable south-east exposition, it is always the last to be harvested, thanks to its elevated position. Still, it’s a very complete wine as result, maturing calmly thanks to the extra hang time. It has some structure but the tannins are ripe and well incorporated. Something of a bargain thanks to its less familiar status.

Picture © Domaine Matrot

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DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT

•

Côte de Beaune - Meursault

Winemaker: Charles Ballot

We have watched with great pride and excitement over the years as Charles Ballot has evolved his family domaine into one of the very best in Meursault. His wines now possess a great level of concentration combined with purity, vibrancy and sense of place. At both village and Premier Cru level, they drip with minerality and energy, and leave the palate thirsty for more. New oak is kept firmly in the background, even more so in 2021, and the wines display a lovely hint of savoury reduction in youth which sits beautifully with their stone character. Charles didn’t make much wine in 2021, but what he has made, is terrific.

Bourgogne Blanc

06 x 75cl - £156 IB

Drink from 2024

This is full of fruit on the attack but finishes with lovely drive and bite on the finish to leave the palate refreshed and wanting more.

Meursault

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Drink from 2025

This is lively, taut, stoney and very much in the crystalline style of modern Meursault. Perfectly poised.

Meursault ‘Les Criots’

06 x 75cl - £348 IB

Drink from 2026

Chalky stone fruit aromas are supported by an underlying fruit and mineral intensity which is a delight.

Meursault ‘Les Narvaux’

03 x 150cl - £468 IB

Drink from 2026

This is always one of Charles’s most over-delivering wines and the 2021 is no exception. With tiny volumes everything has been bottled in magnums, which seems especially appropriate given the quality of the wine. Salty, complex and wonderfully lifted.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Morgeot Tête de Clos’

03 x 75cl - £276 IB • 03 x 150cl - £600 IB

Drink from 2027

The Tête du Clos comes from the best, most mineral part of Morgeot and is shared by Charles and cousins, Vincent Dancer and Armand Heitz. This has the broadness of Morgeot mixed with the limestone infusion of the parcel’s specific soil type. A very appealing alternative to the Meursaults.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Charmes’ 03 x 75cl - £342 IB

Drink from 2027

Especially expressive for a wine at this level but it also retains a tight core, which is beguiling. Lots of pure, taut fruit intensity layered with rich flavours that stay in perfect proportion.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’

03 x 75cl - £450 IB • 03 x 150cl - £960 IB

Drink from 2028

Lots of gorgeous white fruits and flowers that wrestle for supremacy with the stoniness and saltiness of the mid palate. Very long, complex and nuanced.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Genevrières’

03 x 75cl - £390 IB

Drink from 2027

This is much tighter and more backward, although texturally it is very appealing. There is a real sense of intensity in the fruit and structure leaving everything feeling balanced and tightly knitted together. A delightful wine.

Pommard 1er Cru ‘La Refène’

06 x 75cl - £360 IB Volnay 1er Cru ‘Santenots’ 06 x 75cl - £504 IB

Pommard 1er Cru ‘Charmots’

06 x 75cl - £396 IB

Pommard 1er Cru ‘Pézerolles’

06 x 75cl - £540 IB

Picture © Jon Wyand

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DOMAINE HENRI GERMAIN

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Côte de Beaune - Meursault

Winemaker: Jean-François Germain

The harvest at Domaine Henri Germain began on the 27th September and was the latest since 1995 and certainly the latest in recent years. The harvest in 2022, for example, began a whole month earlier. Like so many domaines in Meursault, the yields were devasted by the spring frosts but remaining with a positive outlook, we can all rejoice in the quality of what little wine was made. Jean-François changed very little in 2021 in terms of vinification, though he did reduce the levels of new oak down to just a handful of barrels where the volumes allowed. The wines are arguably even more compact than usual, and the level of purity and vibrancy is impressive. These coiled springs should reward some decent ageing and prove what a great source of wine this domaine is.

Bourgogne Blanc

06 x 75cl - £135 IB Meursault

06 x 75cl - £234 IB

Drink from 2026

Seven different parcels went into this electric cuvée, which has a wonderfully clean and fresh attack that evolves beautifully in the mouth. A great start to the tasting.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’

03 x 75cl - £300 IB

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’ 06 x 75cl - £378 IB

Drink from 2027

This is really fine for a Morgeot, showing stone and delicate fruit flavours over the richer, riper flavours often more commonly associated with the Cru. 20% new oak is subtly marshalled and wine remains, long, elegant and lively.

Meursault ‘Chevalières’

03 x 75cl - £156 IB Meursault ‘Limozin’

03 x 75cl - £156 IB

Drink from 2026

This is a nice little plot, lying just under Genevrieres. It’s a great spot in a vintage like 2021, maximising its sun exposure, facing southeast as it does, yet retaining the nautral vibrancy and energy of the millésime. Drink from 2026

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Charmes’

03 x 75cl - £204 IB

Drink from 2027

The vines here are a mix of three different plantings; 30, 40 and 60 years old, which each give their own input into the finished wine, which is really rather serious. Great concentration, yet detailed and vibrant, especially on the finish. A great success.

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Poruzots’

03 x 75cl - £204 IB

Meursault ‘Clos des Mouches’ Rouge

06 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2026

This is wonderful floral and aromatic, showing an appealing delicacy amid the ripe, bright red fruit flavours. Very nicely done.

Savigny-lès-Beaune ‘Aux Gravains’

06 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2027

This is the first vintage of this wine, that comes from a plot of 45 year old vines on stony soil. Although Jean-François has half a hectare he only made four barrels. Even in 2022 he only made nine, which is far from excessive. This is a little backward and shows a touch of structure and masculinity compared to the Beaune. It will need a little longer to integrate and blossom but good potential here with sophistication for the appellation.

Beaune 1er Cru ‘Bressandes’

06 x 75cl - £300 IB

Drink from 2027

The vines here are about 60 years old, planted on soil with a lot of sand, which gives the wine an underlying elegance and silkiness of tannins, complementing the deceptive structure. A little hidden gem.

VOLNAY

Volnay lies between Meursault to the south and Pommard to the north. Volnay has almost twice as much Premier Cru as it has village wines, but it has no Grand Cru. It is often known as the Chambolle of the Côte de Beaune, famed for its elegance and prettiness. This is in sharp contrast to the wines of its neighbour, Pommard which are known for their power.

• 74ha of Volnay Village

• 133ha of Volnay 1ers Crus

• 29 different 1ers Crus

• No Grand Cru

• Côte de Beaune - Volnay

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Winemaker: Thibaud Clerget

Domaine Yvon Clerget is both a young domaine and a historical one. Thibaud is the 28th generation that is making wine in Burgundy. Though the Domaine still carries the name of Thibaud’s father, in essence it is a new domaine. Yvon Clerget retired in 2009 and the fruit was sold to Henri Boillot until Thibaud started in 2015. After completing his studies at the VITI in Beaune, Thibaud worked at Giesen Wine in New Zealand and with Drouhin in Oregon as well as at Domaine Henri Boillot and Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat. This strong experience has certainly helped Thibaud revive Domaine Yvon Clerget and today it is one of Burgundy’s greatest rising stars. Sadly, the individual plots of the domaine are incredibly small and in 2021, they were among the worst affected by the frost. Despite this, he decided to be scrupulous in his sorting as quality should always reign, or in his own words, ‘I prefer to make a smaller production, but better’. Despite the obstacles, Thibaud loves the vintage as he considers ‘2021 is a vintage of the winemaker’. Thibaud has created an exceptional range of elegant, vivacious wines. We say it every year, but 2021 is his best vintage yet. Thibaud’s focused dedication to quality combined with his ever-increasing knowledge of his vineyards makes this a truly exciting domaine to watch.

Bourgogne Rouge

06 x 75cl - £126 IB

This was the last vineyard to be harvested in 2021. All the grapes come from one plot in Longbois (just below Santenots). It is light-bodied yet with more depth than one expects from a Bourgogne Rouge, with vivacious red Pinot fruit and great freshness. Worth seeking out.

Volnay

06 x 75cl - £246 IB

Fragrant and transparent, it has a sense of flawlessness. Translucent red cranberries and redcurrant notes. Highly seductive with good crisp freshness that elevates the wine further.

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Clos du Verseuil’ Monopole 03 x 75cl - £285 IB

This 0.5ha vineyard located just below Taillepieds (and next to the village church) is a monopole of Clerget. It is always the first vineyard to be harvested and 2021 was no exception. Though occasionally Thibaud uses stems on this cuvée, he destemmed everything in 2021. There is a hedonistic velvety rich red fruited note that seduces from the first smell to the final finish. The supple finesse of the tannins frame it beautifully and give structure to the intensity of the fruit.

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Caillerets’

03 x 75cl - £306 IB

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Mitans’

03 x 75cl - £186 IB

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Carelle Sous La Chapelle’ 03 x 75cl - £204 IB

Bright with an explosion of aromas on the nose and palate. There is soft raspberry fruit and wild strawberry as well as rose petals, juniper and hints of Asian spice, with a fine filigree of tannins and a noticeable length. Pretty and energetic, but with substance. I expect it will not close down and will be as delicious in youth as with substantial ageing.

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Santenots’

03 x 75cl - £225 IB

Thibaud argues that if there is clay in the soil, as there is in Santenots, then the wine copes well with a high percentage of whole bunch and in 2021 this is no exception. This is a denser Volnay than the Carelle Sous La Chapelle, almost muscular considering the vintage, with ripe sweet fruit on the mid palate. The ripeness of the fruit is balanced by the freshness that comes from stems. It will benefit from a few years in barrel for the 20% new oak as well as the stems to integrate, but it holds a promise of delight.

Thibaud only owns a 0.31 plot in this vineyard and the vines are 90 years old, meaning that even in a good vintage, yields are small. In 2021, Thibaud only made one barrel, but each drop is precious for the delight it holds. The depth of fruit here is sensational, as is the fragrance of roses that jump out of the glass and the very precise sweetness on the finish. All framed by a beautiful filigree of tannins that provide a backbone that will allow this to age gracefully. Fully destemmed as Thibaud believes limestone needs no stems as the rock ensures the tension and freshness is preserved (which it absolutely has in this cuvée).

Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Rugiens’

03 x 75cl - £348 IB

Thibaud himself confesses that he seeks ‘a Rugiens style Volnay’ and therefore uses 20% stems on this cuvée, which adds a saltiness to the wine. This is more brooding than the other wines tasted, with darker fruit and a broader body and texture, but with an intense core of minerality and a salty finish that gives an elegance to the wine.

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Champans’

03 x 150cl - £570 IB

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £540 IB

Picture © Domaine Yvon Clerget

POMMARD

First village lying immediately to the south of Beaune, with Volnay to its other side. There are no Grands Crus in Pommard, although there is a strong movement to grant this status to the 1er Cru Les Rugiens, particularly Rugiens Bas, the lower part of the vineyard. Traditionally, despite the variation in soil types and exposition, Pommard produces wines of a certain power and rusticity. However, a new generation of winemakers, with climate change as their assistant, have been crafting much more accessible examples with an emphasis on aromatics and fruit rather than structure. Arguably, the wines have never been so good or so enjoyable so young.

• 206ha of Pommard Village

• 116ha of Pommard 1ers Crus

• 28 different 1ers Crus

• No Grand Cru (currently!)

DOMAINE VIOLOT-GUILLEMARD

• Côte de Beaune - Pommard

• Winemaker: Joannès Violot-Guillemard

When Joannès Violot-Guillemard took over the family domaine in 2019 he became the fifth generation of vignerons to run this small but qualitydriven family estate. Confident and ambitious, he has quickly settled into the rhythm of the domaine, showing a clear appreciation of the importance of detail when running a bijou estate. 2021 set his biggest challenge to date, from start to finish, yet, at the same time, it also provided him with the opportunity to showcase his considerable talents. His vineyards suffered from frost and oidium, like everyone else’s, but he pivoted cleverly with intensive restorative work in the vineyard and eight people on the sorting table (he had just 2 in 2020). Consequently, the bunches he kept were of high quality, there just weren’t many of them, with volumes around 70% down.

Viticulture here has been organic since the late 1990’s and the domaine now has 9 hectares of vines with a further 3 hectares rented. The use of whole bunch is quite specific, with many of the village wines being fully destemmed, but the most powerful 1ers Crus see up to 100%. Joannès is not afraid of new oak, especially when using whole bunches as he feels the two work well togther but the wines never feel ‘sexed up’ by the oak and carry it well. Whilst outwardly this may seem an arbitrary and a potentially heavy-handed approach, the results are remarkable with the wines showing no excessive imprint of either technique. This set of wines may be small in volume but left a lasting impression. Ethereal, seductively perfumed and intense while being delicately structured, these were amongst the most enticing reds that we tasted from barrel this year.

Beaune Blanc ‘En Montagne Saint-Désiré’

03 x 75cl - £99 IB

Drink from 2024

This vineyard lies just above the famous Clos des Mouches, sandwiched below the mountain above and other Premiers Crus to the left and right. Limpid, golden apple fruit with an opulent lick of sweet spice from the barrels (just under 30% new). This combines a lovely richness with fine detail and vibrancy.

Pommard 1er Cru ‘Brescul’

03 x 75cl - £159 IB

Drink from 2025

Sitting high on the slope with a steep, south-east facing aspect, this vineyard lies on the Beaune border adjacent to Clos des Mouches. One of Joannès’ cuveés to see full destemming, this is a seductively perfumed Pommard full of black forest fruits and a hint of something wild and savoury. This offers a brilliant introduction to the red wines of this domaine.

Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos des Mouches’ Rouge

03 x 75cl - £225 IB

Drink from 2026

From one of Beaune’s most feted vineyards, the fruit for this cuveé comes from high in the top right corner right on the Pommard border where the terroir is stony ‘terre blanche’. This has a particularly lifted and fragrant nose full of charming ripe red summer berries and sweet cooking spice. Fine, firm tannins will benefit from a few years to soften but they are more than matched by the wine’s fruit intensity.

Pommard 1er Cru ‘Epenots’

03 x 75cl - £252 IB

Drink from 2026

Pommard 1er Cru ‘La Platière’

03 x 75cl - £198 IB

Drink from 2026

‘La Platière’ lies on south-facing slopes just to the north of the village, bordering Les Arvelets. There is impressive concentration here with a particularly red fruited character of raspberry and cranberry fruit that feels ripe but nicely framed by bright acidity. There is a more notable spice here than on some of the other wines. 40% whole bunch. Nice density and a long finish here so best left alone for a few years.

Pommard 1er Cru ‘Arvelets’

03 x 75cl - £198 IB

This cuvée has seemed to typify Joannès’ style over the past few years and 2021 is no exception. There is an incredible ethereal quality to the wine that offers up an intoxicating perfume of limpid, red summer berries and black tea spice. The intense fruit is layered over a sturdy frame of beautifully detailed and fine tannins and it’s clear from the power of both they will need some time to reconcile, though they offer a lot of promise! There is 100% whole cluster and new oak here that is worn incredibly lightly.

Pommard 1er Cru ‘Rugiens’

03 x 75cl - £264 IB

Drink from 2027

As to be expected from this powerful site, the colour here is deeper and darker than its peers. It has an assertive yet finely detailed tannic structure with brilliant intensity of wild berry fruits, undergrowth and exotic spices. Again there is a translucent quality to the fruit that achieves both power and delicacy. This cuvée also sees 100% whole cluster and new oak which Joannès feels integrate better with one another and it’s hard to argue with him based on this example. An outstanding example of this vineyard.

Picture © Domaine Violot-Guillemard

SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE

Savigny stretches out northwards from the suburbs of Beaune, finishing just to the south of Pernand-Vergelesses. Although it does produce a notable amount of white wine (over 10% of its total production) Savigny is known for its earthy, red-fruited Pinot Noirs. The soils and exposures vary quite significantly across the appellation meaning that one can find bright, mineral examples as well as richer, more structured Savignys. Prices here have remained very stable over the past few years and therefore the best examples offer excellent value for money. They can also age surprisingly well.

• 240ha of Savigny-lès-Beaune Village (15% white)

• 143ha of Savigny-lès-Beaune 1ers Crus (10% white)

• 22 different 1ers Crus

• No Grand Cru

Côte de Beaune - Savigny-lès-Beaune

• Winemaker: Jean-Baptiste Lebreuil

In his spare time Jean-Baptiste is a really good winemaker in Savigny les Beaune; for his day job he works hard to maintain his position as one of the most charming men in the Cote d’Or. Always with a smile on his face, he makes wine very much in the same mode. His Savignys are bright and red fruited with gentle use of new oak. They start to hit their stride after two to three years and offer great value for money. The style of 2021 really suits Jean-Baptiste’s style, the freshness of the vintage working well with the brambly structure of the appellation. We have also managed to get our hands on a few cases of his white Savigny, which is a very rare treat.

Savigny-lès-Beaune

1er Cru ‘Aux Clous’ Blanc

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Drink from 2025

Being a slightly more sheltered site this tends to be picked towards the end of the harvest which in 2021 meant it was picked just at the beginning of October. Good natural acidity combined with genuine fruit intensity derived from the extra hangtime. Quite savoury with a little gentle oak spice. Lively.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

12 x 75cl - £156 IB

Drink from 2024

This was bottled quite early (before the harvest in August) in order to preserve its juicy deliciousness. Lots of red fruits, quite a gentle structure and quite expressive and open. This will drink well over the next five years.

Savigny-lès-Beaune

‘Aux Grands Liards’ Rouge

12 x 75cl - £258 IB

Drink from 2024

Excellent village wine with ripe, quite open red fruit flavours and just enough zip to keep it well balanced.

Savigny-lès-Beaune

1er Cru ‘Aux Gravains’ Rouge 06 x 75cl - £204 IB

Drink from 2025

The soil here is quite light and sandy and this is reflected in the wine. This is elegant, pretty and very harmonious.

Savigny-lès-Beaune

1er Cru ‘Aux Serpentières’ Rouge 06 x 75cl - £222 IB

Drink from 2027

Another Savigny Premier Cru but a very different animal. This has much broader shoulders, with more overt structure and a little more tannin. Well made but in need of a little more time.

Aloxe-Corton ‘Les Boutières’

06 x 75cl - £192 IB

Picture © Simon Owen

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DOMAINE JEAN GUITON

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Côte de Beaune - Bligny-lès-Beaune

Winemaker: Guillaume Guiton

The style of fruit in 2021 seems entirely suited to Guillaume Guiton’s approach in the cellar where perfume and purity are hallmarks of the domaine. Guillaume was delighted with his 21’s – as were we after tasting!

– reporting not only a normal start to the harvest on the 21st September but also that, from certain vineyards, he harvested more fruit than in 2020! The wines were particularly pinot-esq this year, restrained in colour and fine boned in structure, balancing intense fruit with mouth-watering acidity in a way that has eluded many domaines over the past three vintages. In part, this comes thanks to a delicate approach to extraction, achieved from gentle pump overs early in the fermentation. This year, however, Guillaume went further, leaving certain cuvees entirely alone to extract under their natural weight and tumult of the fermentation. Oak is never an obtrusive feature of these wines owing to the use of larger 500L barrels with a maximum of 25% new wood used for the top cuvees. The result was a set of utterly charming and exceptionally morish wines that really over-deliver for the price.

Bourgogne Côte d’Or

12 x 75cl - £165 IB

Drink from 2024

A mixture of red and black fruits here with a light violet floral nose. The palate remains very pretty with a lifted feel and a sense of great freshness and purity to the fruit without it feeling crunchy. Very fine, light tannin and a slightly rounded, plump mouthfeel. This is a very charming Bourgogne Pinot Noir.

Savigny-lès-Beaune

12 x 75cl - £240 IB

Savigny-lès-Beaune

1er Cru ‘Les Hauts Jarrons’

06 x 75cl - £156 IB

Drink from 2025

A slightly deeper purple colour here with a darker fruit profile of sweet black cherry and black raspberry. Tannins are fairly fine yet firm and well-matched for the juicy fruit. There is greater density here of both fruit and structure that should support some good aging. From steep east-facing slopes adjacent to Corton that lies to the north.

Pernand-Vergelesses Rouge

1er Cru ‘Les

06 x 75cl - £165 IB

Drink from 2025

Vergelesses’

Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Sizies’

06 x 75cl - £168 IB

Volnay ‘Les Petits Poisots’

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Drink from 2026

A bright and exuberant profile with a very juicy style of red cherry and raspberry fruit, also showing some white floral touches. The mouthfeel here is fresh without being remotely hard or angular owing to the fruit intensity. This is likely due to the vine age, with the fruit coming from two parcels of 70 and 30 years of age. There is plenty of structure here with fine, detailed but firm tannins that should carry the wine well and ensure a good future.

Pommard

06 x 75cl - £204 IB

Drink from 2025

This is a very open-knit, charming style of Pommard that runs contrary to the archetype of this village. More delicate and lifted than the Volnay with loose-knit, fine tannins with lovely ripeness. This comes from four plots, two on the slopes and two on the flatter zone, which are picked one week apart to reach optimal ripeness before being co-vinified. This will drink well early on but should evolve attractively too.

An aromatic and very pretty style with a bright red cherry and red apple fruit profile. There is a delicate textural profile to the wine this year with cool stoney quality on the palate and fine, ripe, and powdery tannins.

Picture © Simon Owen

ALOXE-CORTON

LADOIX

Extending north from Savigny-lès-Beaune these three villages produce a mix of red and white wine and are the last villages before one reaches the Côte de Nuits. These three villages cannot be separated, though they each have their own appellations, as they are intrinsically linked through their Grands Crus. They are perhaps most famous for the wines of Corton-Charlemagne that circle the upper parts of the hill of Corton, although there is in fact almost twice as much red Corton. The crus overlap the three communes, and each have different characters due to changes in soil and exposition within each. Compared to the Grands Crus of Puligny and Chassagne, Corton Charlemagne is enormous, making it difficult to pin down an exact style though it is known for its flinty raciness as much as anything. There are an extraordinary thirty-two different lieu dits within Corton, some of which are blended, and some of which are cherished and honoured for their individuality. The red wines from these communes tend to need time, with the clay-rich soils producing wines with not insignificant tannins.

VILLAGES

• 80ha of Aloxe-Corton Village

• 74ha of Pernand-Vergelesses Village (35ha white)

• 70ha of Ladoix Village (6ha white)

1ERS CRUS

• 38ha of Aloxe-Corton 1ers Crus

• 61ha of Pernand-Vergelesses 1ers Crus (18ha white)

• 24ha of Ladoix 1ers Crus (8ha white)

GRANDS CRUS

• 52ha of Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne

• 95ha of Corton (32 lieu-dits)

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DOMAINE TOLLOT-BEAUT

• Côte de Beaune - Savigny-lès-Beaune

Winemaker: Nathalie Tollot

Founded in the 1880’s and one of the first in Burgundy to begin domaine bottling, Tollot-Beaut have built a solid reputation over the years for delivering highly consistent wines that offer immense drinking pleasure, without costing the earth. With a total of 24 hectares spread across many of the best sites of Chorey-lès-Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Beaune and Aloxe-Corton, the size, quality and coverage of this domaine ensures it remains a reference point in this part of the Côte d’Or. The style of Pinot Noir here is known for being fleshy, exuberant and open-knit. Whilst present, oak is rarely ever out of place on these wines yet in 2021 small volumes have made it harder to subtly integrate new barrels into the oak regime, and so the 2021s typically feature a little less new wood than usual. This fact, coupled with the sense of energy and perfume offered by the vintage, has made the 2021’s some of the most balanced, elegant and charming wines we can remember tasting at this address. These wines come highly recommended this vintage.

Chorey-lès-Beaune 06 x 75cl - £135 IB

Drink from 2024

From a total of 6ha of vines with an average age of 40 years, which Nathalie feels offers the optimum balance of yield and quality. Perfumed and open this is full of charm. A profile of red and black berry fruit, nicely ripe and with a slight glossy edge. This is already quite delicious.

Savigny-lès-Beaune

1er Cru ‘Champ Chevrey’ 06 x 75cl - £204 IB

Drink from 2025

A 1.5ha monopole planted in 1954 with more limestone in the soils than Lavières. The style here is darker, more brooding, and powerful. There is impressive structure here with a muscular frame and firmer tannin that is built for the long-haul.

Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Lavières’

06 x 75cl - £204 IB

Drink from 2025

Quite an aromatic style with spicy red raspberry, red currant and exotic white flowers. Very juicy on the palate with fine sweet tannins. From vines up to 50 years old. This is another that will be hard to resist drinking on release but it will be worth waiting a year or two.

Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos du Roi’

06 x 75cl - £282 IB

Drink from 2026

From a 1ha plot planted in 1982, this is a slightly warmer site, quite protected, which Nathalie notes is usually one of the first to be harvested. Lovely purity with an interplay of sweet strawberry compote and sour red cherry. A more stony, mineral character appears on the palate, with nicely ripe, silky tannins.

Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru ‘Fournières’

06 x 75cl - £270 IB

Drink from 2027

One of the most concentrated and structured wines made at the domaine, from steep east-facing slopes located at the entrance to the village on the ascent up the Hill of Corton. Dense fruit with quite a dark profile – black cherry, tea leaf and sweet cooking spice. There is a firmness to the tannin that will require some patience but also plenty of fruit concentration to see this through for the long-haul.

Corton Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £432 IB

Drink from 2027

Beaune 1er Cru ‘Grèves’

06 x 75cl - £282 IB

03 x 150cl - £291 IB

With volumes 50% down this year, there is only one wine with both the regular Corton and Corton-Bressandes combined. This is a gorgeous wine – ripe and exuberant, almost exotic but with a firm line of acidity underpinning. This nicely marries together generous raspberry and summer pudding notes with blueberries, sweet spice and fine lacy tannin. This is very elegant and harmonious even at this stage. Lovely stuff!

Picture © Domaine Tollot-Beaut

CÔTE DE NUITS

NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES

The first of the major villages of the Côte de Nuits heading north, lying to the south of Vosne-Romanée. There are three distinct parts to the appellation: one to the north of the village, one to the south and one further south in Premeaux-Prissey. Each has very different soil and exposure and each produces very different wines. Arguably, the true Nuits are produced in the middle part of the appellation, just to the south of the village itself. Here the wines are powerful and structured with a make-up built to last. It is here that the appellation’s most revered vineyard, Les St Georges, is found. The vineyards around Premeaux Prissey, where the soil is a little sandier, include the famous Clos de la Maréchale monopole (owned by Domaine Mugnier) which is just one of five monopoles in this area. Here the wines are lighter and more delicate, with a gentler spine but excellent focus. To the north of the village, on the Vosne side, the soil has more limestone and less clay and the wines tend to be a little finer and glossier. Quite a few of these vineyards are owned by Vosne-based domaines and certainly nod more to Vosne than Nuits.

• 160ha of Nuits-Saint-Georges Village

• 146ha of Nuits-Saint-Georges 1ers Crus (48% of the total surface, 4ha are white)

• 41 different 1ers Crus

• No Grand Cru

DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES & MAISON GOUGES

• Côte de Nuits - Nuits-Saint-Georges

• Winemaker: Greg & Antoine Gouges

The small volumes that affected Nuits in 2020 give the impression that yields in 2021 are not too bad, but in reality there is really not very much wine. Frosts in Nuits kept yields well below what they might be in a ‘normal’ year, whatever that may be these days! Greg and Antoine Gouges, who have been running the domaine for over a decade now, since Christian and Pierre hung up their pippettes, have been responsible for the Domaine’s continued presence at the forefront of quality domaines in the village. Much has been written over the years about the role of the new cuverie, built in 2007, and the change in style of the wines, but ultimately it’s been about the quality of the fruit that has been coming into the winery and the more modern approach in the cuverie. The big difference, from a tasting perspective, has been the quality of the tannins, which now work with the fruit rather than calling the shots. The wines are consequently more expressive and inviting in youth yet retain the ability to age for a very long time. 2021 reflects very well the success of this evolution, showing excellent harmony, expression and fruit content. Over the last couple of vintages a new Maison Gouges range has been established to include some much sought-after Premier Crus that were not previously in the domaine’s range.

DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES

Bourgogne Pinot Blanc

06 x 75cl - £120 IB

Drink from 2024

As always this offers great value. Plenty of richness and body but very well knit. Too easy to like!

Nuits-Saint-Georges

1er Cru ‘La Perrière’ Blanc

06 x 75cl - £450 IB

Drink from 2026

40 year old vines here and 20% new oak. It shows really good intensity and its dynamism gives length to its richness. Excellent.

Nuits-Saint-Georges

06 x 75cl - £240 IB

Drink from 2026

A blend of various parcels around the village and aged in 15% new oak. Has some structure for a village wine but plenty of juicy fruit underneath.

Nuits-Saint-Georges

‘Clos de la Fontaine Jacquinot’

06 x 75cl - £288 IB

Drink from 2027

This single vineyard plot (biodynamic since 2020) lies quite high up on the slope above Chateau Gris. It has a touch of whole bunch (about 20%) which gives it a little extra fragrance and juiciness alongside an extra level of concentration. This really is becoming an interesting plot.

Nuits-Saint-Georges

1er ‘Clos des Porrets-St-Georges’

06 x 75cl - £300 IB 03 x 150cl - £315 IB

Drink from 2028

The biggest 1er Cru holding in the domaine and often one of the more accessible but the 2021 seems to have a powerful structure and intensity and will need a little time to express itself fully.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Chaignots’

06 x 75cl - £342 IB

Drink from 2027

Lying to the north of the village on the Vosne side, this is a nice mix of bright fresh red fruits and a rounded, almost lush, textural character.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Pruliers’

06 x 75cl - £462 IB 03 x 150cl - £480 IB

Drink from 2029

This has a lovely bit of added lift that really helps project the concentrated blue fruits. Well constructed and with good drive and lots to come.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Vaucrains’ 03 x 75cl - £324 IB

Drink from 2029

Quite compact initially as it is so often thanks to the abundance of small berries but the richness of fruit comes through nicely on the finish and bodes very well for the future.

Picture © Jon Wyand

Nuits-Saint-Georges

1er Cru ‘Les Saint Georges’

03 x 75cl - £960 IB

Drink from 2030

Powerful stuff but very refined at the same time. Over the last few vintages this has really shown its class and it is certainly ready for an upgrade to Grand Cru status.

MAISON GOUGES

Côtes de Nuits Villages

06 x 75cl - £165 IB

Drink from 2025

Lightish and pretty with a nice mix of red fruits and darker earthier flavours.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Vaucrains’

06 x 75cl - £450 IB

Drink from 2028

This is a little more expressive and open than the domaine version, with plenty of fleshy fruits that knit together well.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Vignerondes’

06 x 75cl - £780 IB

Drink from 2028

Powerful, darker fruits that jostle for dominance with the structure of the wine. Quite stony underneath and good energy running through its core.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Saint-Georges Cuvée Faiveley’

03 x 75cl - £780 IB

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Cailles’

06 x 75cl - £450 IB

Drink from 2028

A touch of spice enhances the slightly sauvage character of the fruit and adds layers and complexity. The structure is present but quite elegant and the finsih is long and moresih.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Richemone’

06 x 75cl - £450 IB

Drink from 2027

Regarded by those in the know as one of the best vineyards in Nuits, this is slightly darker and lusher than some of the vineyards to the south of the village.

DOMAINE ROBERT CHEVILLON

• Côte de Nuits - Nuits-Saint-Georges

•

The wines of la Famille Chevillon make a lovely contrast to those of Gouges, being a little more fruit driven in youth yet still managing to embrace the structural make up of proper Nuits. There is a remarkable range of the village’s Premiers Crus which each reflect the differing soil types and expositions of their sites. Quantities are particularly low this year and individual allocations will be very limited, sadly.

Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes

12 x 75cl - £552 IB

Drink from 2026

The village wine was less impacted by the frost, thank God, and therefore volumes are not nearly as bad as with some of the Premiers Crus. A touch of spice mingles with earth and sous bois whilst the fleshiness of the mid-palate gives the wine a certain but arguably deceptive approachability.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Cailles’

06 x 75cl - £558 IB

Drink from 2029

Just seven barrels from 1.2 hectares were produced which is around a third of what would have been hoped for in a normal vintage. Still, what there is, is great. The fruit is perhaps a tad darker than usual with plenty of spicy earthiness but it retains a healthy sense of definition and purpose. Much to like about this.

Nuits-Saint-Georges

1er Cru ‘Les Vaucrains’

06 x 75cl - £558 IB

Drink from 2030

90 year old vines spread over an enviable 1.5 hectares. Very intese, inky in both colour and fragrance, and beatifully aromatic. Very compact and complete.

Winemaker: Bertrand and Denis Chevillon

Picture © Domaine Robert Chevillon

•

NICOLAS FAURE

• Côte de Nuits - Meuilley

Winemaker: Nicolas Faure

Nicolas Faure has worked for the likes of Domaine Agnès Paquet, JeanLouis Chave, Prieuré-Roch, and DRC, all whilst developing his own domaine. 2021 marks his tenth vintage (his first vintage in 2011, was made in a friend’s cellar) in the village of Meuilley, just behind the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges. The quantities he produces are miniscule and all from humble appellations, yet collectors around the world are begging for an allocation of his wines, sometimes only ending up with a single bottle or two! He doesn’t own a destemmer, so the wines are naturally whole bunch and he works throughout his vineyards meticulously, honing in on the small yields from these tiny plots. He seeks out especially old vines with his renowned Aligoté, having been planted in 1914. He is married to the wonderful Amélie Berthaut and together, like the Midas touch, everything they create seems to sparkle. However, don’t be fooled as it is the result of enormous hard work, painstaking concentration, and serious commitment. 2021 marks the final year of his Coteaux Bourguignons ‘Mes Gamays’ as he’s uprooted the vineyard, but this is certainly going out on a high note. Nicolas’ wines have an ethereal note about them this vintage. These will be fascinating to taste in time.

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc

06 x 75cl - £141 IB

Drink from 2024

20% Pinot Blanc in this blend. The vines are only young (which bodes well for future vintages) and the Pinot Blanc adds some extra weight and flesh without any heaviness. Will drink well quite early.

Bourgogne Aligoté ‘La Corvée de Bully’

06 x 75cl - £156 IB

Drink from 2024

A delayed malo on this (which is no bad thing) but one can still see the weight of fruit and poise of the wine. Very old vines and clearly well concentrated and very promising.

Côteaux Bourguignons ‘Mes Gamays’

06 x 75cl - £96 IB

Drink from 2024

This is really lovely. Great freshness (whole bunch), good concentration and perfectly balanced. Over delivers in a major way.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir ‘Aux Argillières’

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Aloxe-Corton

06 x 75cl - £270 IB

Drink from 2025

2 parcels go into this wine, one from 65 year old vines that produce a lot of very small berries and one from vines on sandier soil which produces more delicate Pinot grapes. The combination is a good one.

Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Les Herbues’

06 x 75cl - £270 IB

Drink from 2025

Open and elegant, not always the first two adjectives one associates with the appellation! But Nicolas’ approach works really well here and makes this a most appealing wine.

Picture © Simon Owen

THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR

• Côte de Nuits - Nuits-Saint-Georges

• Winemaker: Thibault Liger-Belair

The joyous and full of life Thibault Liger Belair moved to new premises on the outskirts of Nuits St Georges during the last decade. This extra space has allowed him to expand his range of domaine and negociant wines significantly as well as giving him the scope to expand into Beaujolais with some high-class Moulin-à-Vents. As well as some great plots in the Cote de Nuits such as Les St Georges and Richebourg, Thibault has some significant parcels in the Hautes Cotes de Nuits, a cooler area becoming more and more interesting as climate change continues to make a major impact in Burgundy. In some ways, it’s his ability to work his magic with these lesserknown parcels that really makes him out a top winemaker. Everything is certified organic, although the vineyards are farmed biodynamically. As Thibault’s influence on his vineyards grows the wines get finer and more complex. Everything here seems to be in perfect harmony just as it should be in a biodynamic operation! Some lovely 21s here.

Bourgogne Chardonnay ‘Les Charmes’ 06 x 75cl - £90 IB

Bourgogne Aligoté ‘Clos des Perrières La Combe’

06 x 75cl - £105 IB Corton Charlemagne

Grand Cru ‘Les Languettes’ 06 x 75cl - £675 IB

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits

‘La Roche’

06 x 75cl - £141 IB

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits

‘La Corvée de Villy’

06 x 75cl - £141 IB

Drink from 2024

Bourgogne Gamay ‘Les Deux Terres’

06 x 75cl - £84 IB

Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes

Domaine des Pierres Roses

06 x 75cl - £114 IB

From a vineyard with vines planted in 1988, just above Nuits-Saint-Georges on the plateau at 400m altitude, with limestone bedrock and a 30cm topsoil of rich orange clay. Lots of energy and life in this wine; vivid forest berry fruits, with succulent tannins and crunch, with a long finish.

Côtes de Nuits ‘Les Leury Vigne de 1937’

06 x 75cl - £195 IB 03 x 150cl - £210 IB

Drink from 2025

A lovely parcel, just next to Clos Arlot, the majority of the vines were planted in 1937 but some go back even further to 1918. Boasting a south west exposure and a classic mix of limestone and clay, it really is a great parcel. Bourgogne Rouge ‘Les Grands Chaillots’ 06 x 75cl - £132 IB

Drink from 2024

From a few parcels of older Bourgogne vineyards situated in Nuits and Chambolle, this is a great entry point to Thibault’s wines and style. Fragrant with lots of fruit, good intensity and attractive on the palate, lots of minerality and sweet tannins and depth.

Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Les Belles Croix’

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Drink from 2026

A parcel of village wines next to Premier Cru Les Pruliers, so well situated with a good aspect and terroir. Planted in 1954, Thibault has been making this wine since 2018. A dark and intense wine; dark berry fruits, concentration and density, with real verve and attack, smooth tannins and vibrancy. A proper expression of Nuits.

Picture © Thibault Liger-Belair

Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘La Charmotte’

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘La Croix des Champs’

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘En Créot’

06 x 75cl - £354 IB

Drink from 2026

First produced by Thibault in 2020, we are still getting to know this wine, a parcel with clay rich soils and a good aspect. Lovely perfume, seductive and inviting; textured, with good acidity, sweet tannins, and an elegant and long finish.

Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £462 IB

03 x 150cl - £492 IB

Drink from 2027

An assemblage of five individual parcels from different parts of Chambolle. In 2021 Thibault was very happy with the expression of Chambolle he achieved here. Lovely perfume, charming and inviting, with seductive red fruits and red roses. This is extremely elegant with velvety tannins and plenty of layers and complexity – a great wine!

Nuits-Saint-Georges

1er Cru ‘Les Saint Georges’

06 x 75cl - £840 IB 03 x 150cl - £900 IB

Corton Grand Cru ‘Les Renardes’

06 x 75cl - £780 IB

Charmes-Chambertin

Grand Cru ‘Aux Charmes’

Vosne-Romanée ‘Aux Réas’

06 x 75cl - £480 IB

Chambolle-Musigny ‘Les Beaux Bruns’

06 x 75cl - £510 IB

03 x 150cl - £540 IB

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £630 IB 03 x 150cl - £1350 IB

Drink from 2029

In the Clos, Thibault has one parcel with the majority being old vines planted in 1944, then about 30% planted in 1992. Within the parcel, there are three distinct soil types: limestone at the top, then red/brown clays and finally silty marl. Thibault believes this complex soil variation in the parcel really helps to have a great expression of the Clos Vougeot. Lots of concentration here, a big wine, bold and broad shouldered, with nice grip in the tannins and ripeness in the fruits. Already showing some of its potential but will age well.

06 x 75cl - £1170 IB Richebourg Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £2100 IB

03 x 150cl - £4800 IB

DOMAINE TAWSE

• Côte de Nuits - Nuits-Saint-Georges

• Winemaker: Mark Fincham

Englishman Mark Fincham runs this Nuits-based operation with great candour and expertise. We are lucky enough to get a small but select range of some of their best domaine wines from both the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits. The wines have great energy and focus and are always nicely understated, lovely, classical burgundies. Mark seems equally adept at making both reds and whites though he had a lot less white to make this year! It still feels that the wines fly a little under the radar and consequently still offer excellent value for money.

Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc

1er Cru ‘Vergelesses’

06 x 75cl - £192 IB

Drink from 2025

Only four barrels made (one hundred cases) instead of the usual sixteen, but the wine retains a vibrancy which really impresses beneath the obviously hugely concentrated wine.

Chassagne-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Abbaye de Morgeot’

06 x 75cl - £492 IB

Puligny-Montrachet

1er Cru ‘Champ Gains’

06 x 75cl - £522 IB Bourgogne ‘Vigne Blanche’

06 x 75cl - £126 IB

Drink from 2025

Bourgogne only in name as this ‘once classified as Gevrey Chambertin Bourgogne’ really over delivers. Mark normally makes ten plus barrels but only managed five in 2021, low yields and diligent work on the sorting table preventing anything more bountiful.

Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos du Roi’

06 x 75cl - £228 IB

Drink from 2026

Fresh, bright, pretty fruit flavours resulting from the sandier soils. 20% whole bunch adds another dimension and the wine is just too delicious not to love.

Beaune 1er Cru ‘Teurons’

06 x 75cl - £246 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin

06 x 75cl - £270 IB

Drink from 2026

Seven different parcels go into this cuvée, including La Combe, Roncevie and Clos Prieur. 30% whole bunch, which helps to heighten the aromatics, and there is a real depth of flavours. Very much on the red fruit spectrum with good spice and zest as well.

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Aux Etelois’

06 x 75cl - £318 IB 03 x 150cl - £330 IB

Drink from 2026

Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru ‘Lavières’

06 x 75cl - £192 IB

Drink from 2026

60% down here but the weight of juicy fruit makes it quite expressive and accessible for such a young wine. Plenty of charm and fragrance, in part deriving from the 20% whole bunch.

Etelois is one of those vineyards that could easily pass for a Premier Cru, and this blends intense dark red fruits with spice and earth with an energetic core running through the middle.

Picture © Simon John Owen

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Fremiets’

06 x 75cl - £360 IB

Drink from 2028

Tiny volumes here from this vineyard on the Pommard side of Volnay where there is more soil and the wines tend to be more powerful. Lots to like here but it will take some time to unravel.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Champeaux’

06 x 75cl - £510 IB 03 x 150cl - £522 IB

Drink from 2028

40% down here (three barrels rather than the usual five) and 30% whole bunch. Plenty of grip and structure to go with the buoyant acidty. Plenty to come, given time.

Gevrey-Chambertin

1er Cru ‘Lavaux Saint-Jacques’

06 x 75cl - £600 IB 03 x 150cl - £618 IB

Drink from 2027

This showed so well, with lots of fresh, pure floral elements that ran through the nose and palate. Zippy but concentrated and exciting. Very refreshing and well balanced.

Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £1140 IB 03 x 150cl - £1170 IB

Drink from 2029

Impresively powerful yet still very much in harmony with itself. Again the fruits are more red than black and the spice adds a nice extra dimension.

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £660 IB 03 x 150cl - £1350 IB

Drink from 2029

Mark kept the whole bunch at 70% as he was happy with the maturity of the stems; plus the density of the wine really benefited from the extra lift the stems brought. Quite a bit of new oak here (over 70%) but it’s well absorbed as the wine has broad shoulders. Imposing wine.

VOSNE-ROMANÉE

Vosne-Romanée lies to the north of Nuits-St-Georges and to the south of Vougeot. Vosne-Romanée has an unusually high proportion of classified vineyards (over 55%). At their finest the wines of Vosne are known for having the perfect balance of power and finesse. Being home to the most famous domaine in Burgundy (Domaine de la Romanée Conti) ensures that the village is still very much the destination village for wine pilgrims. Some of the Premiers Crus are as famous as the Grands Crus and often have specific associations with those vignerons who exploited them, such as Henri Jayer and Cros Parantoux. It’s a shame in some ways that four of the Grands Crus are monopoles as it would be fascinating to see what other domaines would make of these wonderful terroirs.

• 99ha of Vosne-Romanée Village

• 55ha of Vosne-Romanée 1ers Crus (including those in Flagey-Echezeaux)

• 14 different 1ers Crus (1 in both Vosne & Flagey-Echezeaux, 2 solely in Flagey-Echezeaux)

• 75ha of Grands Crus (of which 47 are in Flagey-Echezeaux)

• 8 different Grands Crus (of which 2 are in Flagey-Echezeaux, and 4 of which are monopoles)

•

Côte de Nuits - Vosne-Romanée

• Winemaker: Yves Confuron

It’s always a unique experience tasting with Yves Confuron, who does things his own way and in his own time. He is not a slave to fads or short term trends and makes wines built to last that embrace a vintage rather than fight against it. He is a big exponent of whole bunch, but not a big user of new oak. Both factors, combined with a cold cellar, mean these are rarely wines to drink in youth and really reward extended ageing. He has some excellent plots with lots of old vines which produce wines of intensity and structure that have won him plenty of loyal fans over the years.

Nuits-Saint-Georges

06 x 75cl - £255 IB

Drink from 2029

This shows plenty of ripeness for a young Nuits and the whole bunch adds fragrance and lift. Quite a bit of hidden power and plenty of earthy structure to suggest a very long life.

Chambolle-Musigny

06 x 75cl - £255 IB

Drink from 2028

Quite structured for a Chambolle but then it does seem to be the year of Chambolle. Quite backward compared to some yet still classic in style and make up.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Vignerondes’

06 x 75cl - £480 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Craipillot’ 06 x 75cl - £516 IB

Drink from 2029

This small vineyard (less than three hectares) lies close to the entrance to the Combe de Lavaux, which house the famous Clos St Jacques, amongst others. The soil has quite a bit of limestone and the climate is that bit cooler with the infamous breeze running through the Combe. Consequently, this is one of Yves’s more elegant and fragrant wines.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Suchots’

Gevrey-Chambertin

06 x 75cl - £255 IB

Drink from 2028

Very old vines here, close to 100 years of age, that have helped produce a wine of strong aromatics and fragrance which contrast nicely with the rich earthy character of the palate. Will need some time to slowly unfurl.

Vosne-Romanée

06 x 75cl - £270 IB 03 x 150cl - £282 IB

Drink from 2030

This will likely evolve into a very classical Vosne given enough time. Strong fruit intensity almost hides the weight and structure of the wine but it’s likely this will shut down for some time post bottling.

06 x 75cl - £576 IB 03 x 150cl - £588 IB

Drink from 2030

Always a firm favourite in the range, Yves is lucky enough to have a good chunk of Suchots and old vine Suchots at that. The frangrance comes through and the wine shows good florality to contrast with its understated power and intensity.

Gevrey-Chambertin

1er Cru ‘Lavaux St-Jacques’

06 x 75cl - £660 IB

Drink from 2030

One of Gevrey’s most famous Premiers Crus, situated in the same Combe as Les Craipillot. Yves’ holding here is not huge and neither is the wine, being one of his more linear, stoney, red fruited examples. Needs time.

Picture © Jon Wyand

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £405 IB

This is probably the most expressive of the Grands Crus with the structure sitting quietly in the background. The fruit is a mix of red and black but there is nice elegance and restraint as one might hope from this appellation.

Echézeaux Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £465 IB

Drink from 2031

Backward and more strutured with darker, spicier fruit undertones that need to mellow and marry. Lots of potential here but it will require time.

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £840 IB

Drink from 2031

A bit of a sleeper at this stage and still very much in the primary stages of its life. Structurally it’s quite compact yet it seems to have the scope to fill out in quite a masculine way. Potentially very interetsing.

•

DOMAINE JEAN-MARC MILLOT

Côte de Nuits - Nuits-Saint-Georges

• Winemaker: Alix Millot

Alix Millot now runs this small but high-class domaine having taking over from her father, Jean-Marc. Ambitious and talented, she is really driving things forward with great energy and focus. The 2021s are an absolute delight, combining a lovely purity of fruit with a richness of flavour. Alix kept extraction nice and gentle and allowed the various terroirs to do the talking. There isn’t much wine but what there is terrific.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

06 x 75cl - £120 IB

Drink from 2024

A very pretty Bourgogne, bottled in July to preserve the bright, fresh fruit flavours. Only pumping was done, rather than pigeage to maintain as much delicacy as possible and this approach clearly worked. Dainty and quite lovely.

Côte de Nuits Villages Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £165 IB

Drink from 2025

75 year old vines from Vignottes and Essarts which give a dense richness of fruit which is lifted by the natural freshness of the vintage. This is arguably more in harmony with itself than the very rich 2020.

Côte

de Nuits Villages ‘Aux Faulques’

06 x 75cl - £195 IB

Drink from 2025

Chalkier soil here and no oidium-causing humidity in the vineyard, so Alix was able to have a little extra hang time without fear of damaging the grapes. The resulting wine is a little richer but it still retains a lovely grip and drive from limestone soil.

Savigny-lès-Beaune

06 x 75cl - £195 IB

Drink from 2025

From three different parcels across the village, this is fresh and crunchy and very much on the red fruits.

Côte de Nuits Villages

‘Le Vaucrain’ Sans Soufre

06 x 75cl - £300 IB

Vosne-Romanée

03 x 75cl - £216 IB

Drink from 2026

Two parcels here, one in Hautes Maizières, the other in Violettes. The resulting wine is really quite lovely . It shows plenty of intensity but despite its evident richness it retains cool freshness and focus.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Suchots’

03 x 75cl - £402 IB

Drink from 2026

A classic and classy Suchots that displays such inviting fragrance on both the nose and in the mouth. Cultured, elegant and totally seamless with lovely tannin integration. A fine effort.

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru ‘Grand Maupertui’

03 x 75cl - £570 IB

Drink from 2028

This is a much bigger, slightly unforgiving wine by comparison that will need both time and patience to let it chill and mellow. Quite big and structural at the moment but will culture itself over the next few years.

Echézeaux Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £570 IB • 01 x 150cl - £395 IB

Drink from 2027

The same elegance and refinement is on display here, too. Terrific harmony and a tangible sense of purpose and poise.

Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £990 IB • 01 x 150cl - £795 IB

Drink from 2030

A classic Grands Echezeaux; quite broad with much darker fruit flavours and a real presence about it. It’s very much a baby currently, but the structural framework and the fruit intensity match together well. Time will be the making of it. Very promising.

Picture © Domaine Jean-Marc Millot

DOMAINE TARDY

Côte de Nuits - Vosne-Romanée

• Winemaker: Guillaume Tardy

Guillaume Tardy continues to make really lovely wines from his winery just off the main road through Vosne Romanee. This year he has added a new Cote de Nuits Villages to his range, which is a lovely introduction to a set of four villages wines that beautifully highlight the definitive character of their individual villages. Guillaume has quite a lot of old vines in his vineyards and doesn’t feel the need to extract too much, believing that the vines will naturally give him what he wants. He uses between 25-50% new oak on his wines, although in 2021, like so many, he used a little less. He destems most of his wines, just using a little whole bunch where he feels it will add a little lift. His 2021s showed extremely well out in Burgundy and again at our tasting in London. It’s just a shame we don’t have a bit more!

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits ‘Cuvée Maëlie’

06 x 75cl - £165 IB

Drink from 2025

Named after Guillaume’s daughter, this wine just gets better every year. Bright with quite a fine structure and nice controlled red fruit concentration.

Côtes de Nuits Villages ‘Aux Boulardes’

06 x 75cl - £216 IB

Drink from 2025

Two parcels of vines go into this cuvee, one planted in 1965 (two-thirds) and one planted twenty years later in 1985 (onethird) giving an average of around 49 years in 2021. Lovely fragrance suggesting real maturity, confirmed by a suppleness of tannin and structure. Very attractive and a fine debut.

Fixin ‘La Place’

06 x 75cl - £258 IB

Drink from 2025

Good energy here and Guillaume was happy to do his pigeages at slightly warmer temperatures to help round out the wine a touch. Stylish.

Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Au Bas de Combe’ Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £345 IB

Drink from 2026

Bas de Comme is such a nice vineyard, on the Vosne side of Nuits, and this shows a really appealing level of sophistication.

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Champerrier’ Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £360 IB

Drink from 2026

This has a lovely savoury quality which stems from the gravelly quality of the soil which brings vivacity and energy to the table. Good underlying material here.

Chambolle-Musigny ‘Les Athets’

06 x 75cl - £396 IB

Drink from 2026

Some darker fruits mingled in with some bright red fruits giving a good level of complexity and interest. A touch of new fat enrichens the mid-palate but the finish is bright and long.

Vosne-Romanée ‘Les Vigneux’

06 x 75cl - £408 IB

Drink from 2028

This has a bit of stuffing and a nice linear edge to boot. It lies in the heart of the village below Les Suchots and RSV. Powerful but balanced.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Aux Argillas’

06 x 75cl - £624 IB

Drink from 2028

Classic style Nuits that sits just to the north of the village on the Vosne side. Around 40% new oak gives the wine a confident, polished edge to contrast with the earthy minerality derived from the soil.

Echézeaux Grand Cru

‘Les Treux’ Vieilles Vignes

03 x 75cl - £780 IB

Drink from 2028

100% new oak here but it’s well integrated and the depth of fruit absorbs it easily. Quite lush and luxurious with some sap and spice.

Picture © Domaine Tardy

•

DOMAINE DU CLOS FRANTIN

•

Côte de Nuits - Vosne-Romanée

Winemaker: Alain Serveau

Alberic Bichot really has created a high-class family business over the last few years with several different individual estates housed together in the same portfolio, running alongside a negociant business that focuses on small production of up-market appellations. The jewel in the crown is Domaine Du Clos Frantin, which just happens to be the largest holder of a little plot known as Vosne Malconsorts! The wines from Frantin are beautifully made with a delicate hand by Alain Serveau, Bichot’s technical director whose family supplies the fruit for some of the Bichot top negociant wines, which we are also offering in this offer. Volumes under the Frantin label were quite mixed this year with perhaps the two worst affected wines being the Clos Vougeot, which was down 75% and the Echezeaux, which wasn’t as badly impacted but still down considerably. With all his wines, Alain keeps the extraction quite gentle, and in 2021 even more so than usual. New oak is judiciously used, and again even more so in 2021. The 21s are looking excellent and still fly slightly under the radar, despite great reviews, meaning there is still plenty of value to be had.

Bourgogne Côte d’Or

06 x 75cl - £111 IB

Pinot

Noir Monopole

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Les Murots’

06 x 75cl - £264 IB

Vosne-Romanée

06 x 75cl - £366 IB 03 x 150cl - £378 IB

Drink from 2026

From two parcels: one in Maizieres and one in Damodes. Vinified separately, the assemblage creates a nice balance of stony structure and opulent, more luscious fruit character. Both are mingling for dominance at the moment but two to three years in bottle will result in a charming wine.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Rouges’

06 x 75cl - £852 IB

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Malconsorts’

06 x 75cl - £1068 IB 03 x 150cl - £1080 IB 01 x 300cl - £750 IB

Drink from 2029

As the biggest owners of Malconsorts this has almost become the Bichot signature wine, which is not a bad wine to have as such! The 2021 version is quite backward and structural, but its depth and length suggest something quite special lurks within.

Clos-de-Vougeot Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £1194 IB

Drink from 2028

This is almost pretty for a Clos Vougeot, with a touch of whole bunch adding nice aromatics and the palate being harmonious and quite refined. Small volumes but lovely wine.

Echezeaux Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £1194 IB 03 x 150cl - £1206 IB

Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £1524 IB 03 x 150cl - £1536 IB

Drink from 2029

Quite small volumes this year but quite an imposing wine showing plenty of dark lush fruits and a broad, dynamic structure.

Richebourg Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £2340 IB

As always very small volumes here. Please ask about having an allocation.

Picture © Domaine du Clos Frantin

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY

Situated between Morey-St-Denis and Vougeot. Stylistically Chambolle-Musigny is known for the elegance and finesse of its wines and for many, the flagship wines of Musigny itself and Les Amoureuses, represent the very essence of Burgundian Pinot Noir. Many of the Premiers Crus are not that well known as they are quite small and therefore often blended together to form generic Premiers Crus. With twenty-five Crus totalling 55 hectares the average size is a mere 2.2 hectares with many smaller than that.

• 97ha of Chambolle-Musigny Village

• 55ha of Chambolle-Musigny 1ers Crus

• 25 different 1ers Crus

• 25ha of Grands Crus

•

MARK HAISMA

•

Côte de Nuits - Vougeot

Winemaker: Mark Haisma

Slowly but surely Mark Haisma has been acquiring vineyards so that he now has a nice balance of parcels he rents and farms, fruit he harvests and buys and vineyards he owns. This year he has added a couple of new wines to his developing portfolio, primarily from Pernand-Vergelesses. This was a really pleasing, confident range of wines that showed good appellation character and a real sense of harmony right across the range.

Saint-Romain Blanc

06 x 75cl - £210 IB

Drink from 2024

The vines here are fifty years old and the wine has a lovely coiled tension to it, holding the underlying weight and richness together very nicely.

Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘En Caradeux’

06 x 75cl - £270 IB 03 x 150cl - £285 IB

Drink from 2025

A new wine this year and a really lovely addition to the range. It’s a mini Corton Charlie, showing a mouthwatering stony spine, excellent citrussy vibrancy and plenty of weight.

Pernand-Vergelesses ‘Les Pins’

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Drink from 2024

Feels like there’s a little whole bunch here with a very appealing attack on the front palate with lots of bright focussed red fruits and delicious freshness. It tightens a touch on the finish but offers plenty to look forward to. Very good value.

Volnay ‘La Cave’

06 x 75cl - £246 IB

Drink from 2025

No whole bunch here but lovely aromatic expression. Very pretty, very Volnay. Nice concentration and good purity. Harmonious.

Gevrey-Chambertin

06 x 75cl - £282 IB

Drink from 2026

The fruit is a little darker here but the wine is still all about freshness, showing good crunch and drive. Subtle tannin presence adds grip and interest.

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘En Pallud’

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Drink from 2027

50% whole bunch here as Mark felt the wine had the weight and maturity to handle it. It’s tighter and more backward consequently but full of potential.

Chambolle-Musigny

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Drink from 2025

30% whole bunch here which brings just the right amount of lift and brightness. Subtle tannins and nicely integrated and the whole thing is well controlled.

Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Fremiets’

06 x 75cl - £396 IB

Drink from 2027

This makes a nice contrast to the very elegant Volnay, the old vines bringing more oomph and presence to the table. Savoury with good structure and nice definition beneath the weight. Tannins are very well handled. Excellent.

Picture © Simon Owen

Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Chaffots’

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

Drink from 2027

This is 50% whole bunch but it’s very well integrated and the weight of the wine complements it very well. Expressive, rounded with good spice and an little extra lift on the finish.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Fontenys’

06 x 75cl - £810 IB

03 x 150cl - £810 IB

Drink from 2027

This is very classy juice with a flirtation of aromatics and fruit intensity. Elegantly structured but no shrinking violet. Impressive.

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £720 IB

Drink from 2028

Only 2 barrels of this (neither new) and it’s a really impressive example, showing no heaviness or rusticity as some can. Really seamless and rather charming. Well played Mark.

•

DOMAINE HUDELOT-NOËLLAT

• Côte de Nuits - Vougeot

Winemaker: Charles van Canneyt

Charles Van Canneyt has been running this simply brilliant family domaine for some time now and continues to make better and better wines. Blessed with an enviable set of parcels, he crafts wonderfully nuanced, refined, classical and downright delicious burgundies of real pedigree. Extraction is delicate and new oak is minimal. 2021 is a big success for him in terms of quality but very much less so in terms of volume, the vast cellar looking horribly empty. Exciting times lie ahead for Charles, having completed the purchase of another sizeable domaine of some potential. But more of that next year!

Meursault ‘Clos des Ecoles’

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

Drink from 2025

This is quite excellent and a pretty stunning way to begin the tasting. Lots of extract and savoury character and real length.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

06 x 75cl - £189 IB

Drink from 2025

This is normally a huge cuvée for Charles but there were big empty spaces in the cellar where the barrels would normally be piled up. It’s such a shame as the wine is quite lovely showing gorgeous aromas and a very fine structure.

Chambolle-Musigny

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

Drink from 2026

Another fine Chambolle in a vintage bursting with fine examples. Such purity and elegance and everything one looks for in the appellation.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Murgers’ 03 x 75cl - £390 IB

Drink from 2026

With no village Nuits this year this is the soul representative of Nuits, albeit from a vineyard arguably more reflective of Vosne! Good flesh on the mid-palate, adding weight and volume to the underlying structure. Svelte tannins and luxuriously lush for a Nuits.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Charmes’

03 x 75cl - £504 IB

Drink from 2027

Richer than the village version with more structure and density but still with an underlying refinement so indicative of Chambolle. Intense.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Beaumonts’ 03 x 75cl - £630 IB

Drink from 2027

Wonderfully noble and upstanding with impressive depth of flavour and class. Fasntastic from its start to its long finish.

Vosne-Romanée

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

Drink from 2026

More richness and oompft with a little more structure. Perhaps not surprising really given it has declassifed Malconsorts in it!

Vougeot 1er Cru ‘Les

03 x 75cl - £390 IB

Drink from 2027

Petits Vougeot’

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Suchots’ 03 x 75cl - £630 IB

Drink from 2027

What’s not to love? Aromatic, seductive, beautifully polished tannins. Just luscious.

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £750 IB

Drink from 2028

Always one of the bargains of the cellar, though this year it seems a little more backward than usual and may just need a bit more time to find its feet and come together. Lots of elegance and subtle tannins will emerge when it does.

Intense but still with a well-defined lightness of touch. If only all Clos Vougeot was this sophisticated!

Picture © Simon John Owen

MOREY-SAINT-DENIS

Geographically positioned between Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south.This is a small village that makes great wines, which sometimes get overshadowed by the grandiose vineyards to the north and south of it (think Chambertin and Musigny). It is chock full of fantastic producers and there is a real energy to the village. Stylistically, the wines sit somewhere between Chambolle and Gevrey, the vineyards to the north taking on some Gevrey character, those to the south nodding towards the finesse of Chambolle. What the wines have in common is a wonderfully exotic spice which is perfectly expressed in the best examples of Clos St Denis. The wines in Morey often offer great rapport/ qualité/prix.

• 57ha of Morey-Saint-Denis Village (almost 3ha of Aligoté & Chardonnay)

• 39ha of Morey-Saint-Denis 1ers Crus (under 1ha of Aligoté & Chardonnay)

• 20 different 1ers Crus

• 35ha of Grands Crus

• 5 different Grands Crus

•

DOMAINE TAUPENOT-MERME

• Côte de Nuits - Morey-Saint-Denis

Winemaker: Romain Taupenot

Romain Taupenot has been knocking it out of the park in recent vintages, winning lots of plaudits with his primeurs and performing very well at the annual Burgfest tasting, where we look at 250 wines from a single vintage with three to four years of age. He has a terrific set of vineyards, mainly spread across the best appellations of the Côte de Nuits. He destems all his fruit and keeps new oak to sensible levels. These 2021s are a real success and even the volumes are not too bad. Romain was really happy with the quality of fruit that he brought in and he is delighted with the evolution of the wines in barrel, which has been more positive than he could have imagined. There is great typicity across the range and an energy and verve that really lifts and defines the wines.

Auxey-Duresses Blanc

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Saint-Romain Blanc

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Bourgogne

06 x 75cl - £138 IB

Pinot Noir

Chambolle-Musigny

06 x 75cl - £378 IB 03 x 150cl - £408 IB

Drink from 2025

Yet another excellent 2021 Chambolle. So well balanced one could almost drink it now.Very pretty, very lovely and very Chambolle.

Morey-Saint-Denis

06 x 75cl - £402 IB

Drink from 2026

Auxey-Duresses Rouge

06 x 75cl - £168 IB

Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Rouge

06 x 75cl - £246 IB

Drink from 2025

This is a really great example of the appellation and Romain has really nailed it. Red fruits dominate, and the elegant midpalate has well integrated tannins and a nice sense of energy and purpose.

Gevrey-Chambertin

06 x 75cl - £348 IB

Drink from 2026

Stylish, with good energy and typicity. Again, very much on the red fruits with a touch of spice and and excellent tannin maturity.

This is perhaps the broadest of the three and certainly shows the most structure. Fleshy and rich with nice elements of spice in amongst the bright red fruits.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Pruliers’

06 x 75cl - £630 IB 03 x 150cl - £690 IB

Drink from 2027

This is really quite Nuits both on the nose and in the mouth, showing a slightly more backward attack before giving way to a more generous fleshier mid-palate. Plenty to come.

Morey-Saint-Denis

06 x 75cl - £648 IB 03 x 150cl - £708 IB

Drink from 2028

1er Cru ‘La Riotte’

This wine seems to get better every year. Nicely controlled and in proportion with real intensity on the finish. Lots of bright red fruits and a touch of refreshing briar. Well balanced tannins.

Picture © Domaine Taupenot-Merme

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Bel Air’

06 x 75cl - £732 IB 03 x 150cl - £792 IB

Drink from 2027

How good is this?! Stoney and gravelly with lovely control, depth and energy. Terrific.

Chambolle-Musigny

1er Cru ‘La Combe d’Orveau’

06 x 75cl - £750 IB 03 x 150cl - £810 IB

Drink from 2027

This seems to have almost more structure than usual, though like so many Chambolles in 2021 it’s wonderfully linear and expressive of the appellation. An excellent example of this excellent vineyard.

Corton-Rognet Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £1200 IB

Drink from 2028

This is one of the more backward wines of the range, showing plenty of structure and tannins. But the tannins are fine and the 45 year old vines have produced a lovely quality of fruit that should come together very nice indeed over time.

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £1440 IB

03 x 150cl - £1530 IB

Drink from 2028

Sweet, ripe, fleshy, volumous with nice underlying structure. The fruit generally stays on the red spectrum and the wines stays very true to the character of Charmes. Nicely done.

Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £1680 IB 03 x 150cl - £1170 IB 01 x 300cl - £1200 IB

Drink from 2029

Mazoyeres has more bunches and smaller grapes that the Charmes and tends to ripen later as it did in 2021. Real precision and balance here, belying the depth and understated power of the wine. Great potential.

Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £2100 IB

Drink from 2030

Romain’s small holding of vines in the Clos means that Domaine des Lambrays doesn’t quite have the monopoly but Romain is loath to give it up such is its greatness. Needs time but lovely underlying elegance.

•

DOMAINE ARLAUD & VINS D’ARLAUD

• Côte de Nuits - Morey-Saint-Denis

Winemaker: Cyprien Arlaud

Cyprien Arlaud took over from his father in 1997 and in the same year began his conversion to biodynamic farming. For Cyprien, wine quality is intrinsically linked to vine health, which is the direct result of soil quality. Cyprien uses horses in the vineyards to avoid the vineyard becoming ‘a cement highway’ and luckily his sister, Bertille, trains horses for ploughing ensuring him the best access! This care for the vineyards has created wines that speak of their terroir. Since 2015, Cyprien has operated a late pruning in March, which delays the budding. This, combined with the candles, reduced the damaging affects of the frost in 2021 and Cyprien is relieved that he is ‘only’ 20% down in crop. In the cellar, Cyprien focusses on giving the quality of the fruit a voice, using minimal intervention, less extraction than his father, partial use of stems and minimal use of new oak or SO2. At its best, the 2021 vintage has an uncanny ability to be a true expression of terroir and this was certainly true at Arlaud. Tasting with Cyprien Arlaud is always a treat for his portfolio of vineyards is a true reflection of the Côte de Nuits and about 2021 he says ‘there is no filter on this vintage’, referring to the fact that his 2021s are a true reflection of Pinot and terroir. Cyprien produces a village wine from Morey, Chambolle, Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée and each is a lesson in their individuality. The winery is located in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis and the quadrivium of appellations here span the full breadth of the village, from the border of Chambolle to the border of Gevrey, and in 2021 each displays its own distinct character. The typicity of terroir continues right through the Grand Crus, which show the utmost balance and elegance. Cyprien compared 2021 to 2016 and ‘even 2010’ because of the type of acidity and says ‘this vintage is a gentle, elegant one. We made wine with the utmost sensitivity’.

DOMAINE ARLAUD

Bourgogne ‘Roncevie’

06 x 75cl - £126 IB

Roncevie is an interesting lieu-dit, which was, until 1964, all classified as Gevrey-Chambertin village. A signature cuvée of the domaine, made with 60-year-old vines, which always overperforms its humble origin with plush fruit. This is no exception in 2021, with velvety rich enticing sweet cherry fruit on the mid-palate, yet with an elegance that reminds Cyprien of 2007. This is utterly charming and delicious.

Gevrey-Chambertin

06 x 75cl - £252 IB

12 x 37,5cl - £318 IB

Two Lieux dits: La Justice (border with Fixin) and Les Seuvrées (border with Morey-St-Denis). There is a step up here in density and layered complexity. As expected, it is denser and darker fruited than the previous two. It has Gevrey muscle, but with fine tannins. The aromatic complexity is enticing with blackberry notes, a hint of mint, earthy notes and a touch of Christmas spice. Approachable young, this should benefit from a few years in bottle.

Morey-Saint-Denis

06 x 75cl - £282 IB 12 x 37,5cl - £342 IB

The fruit comes from two plots in ‘En Seuvrées’ (on the border with Gevrey-Chambertin) and ‘Clos Solon’ (in the centre of the village). This is a quintessential Morey-St-Denis with a bouquet of wild hedgerow aromas and wild strawberries and a medium body that is well defined, culminating in a prettily scented finish.

Chambolle-Musigny

06 x 75cl - £348 IB 12 x 37,5cl - £408 IB

Cyprien works with old vines (on average 50 years) from four different climats on the border with Morey-St-Denis: Les Bussières, Les Gamaires, Les Herbues and Les Chardannes. 2021 is a true Chambolle vintage which is shown in this bottle, where Cyprien has managed to channel the glam factor that defines good chambolle. Rather than focussing on power, this medium-bodied beauty embodies the charming prettiness of Chambolle with softly woven red fruit notes. Simply charming.

Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Millandes’

06 x 75cl - £390 IB

Located below Clos de la Roche, Millandes has a ‘complex’ soil structure. Cyprien boasts a 0.40ha holding spread across three parcels on both soil types (colluvial gravel in the top of the vineyard and deeper clay in the lower part). Cyprien credits the complex soils as the source of the complexity in the wine.

It is pretty on the nose with fragrant wild strawberries, rose petals and a hint of blood orange. The layered complexity on the medium-bodied palate is balanced by the supple tannins and a hint of minerality on the finish. Far more open at this point than usual and I expect it won’t close down.

Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Blanchards’

06 x 75cl - £390 IB

Like Millandes, this comes from the centre of the village. This time just below Clos des Lambrays (a few houses separate the two). Cyprien has a tiny 0.27ha plot here and the wine is concentrated from the start with white pepper and Christmas spice and slowly opens to reveal a dense palate of blackberries, violets and glossy tannins culminating in precision on the notable finish.

Picture © Domaine Arlaud

Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Aux Cheseaux’

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

03 x 150cl - £450 IB

This comes from the border with Gevrey-Chambertin, adjacent to the Grand Cru of Mazoyères-Chambertin. A cooler site than Blanchards, as displayed in the dark plum notes and hints of wild mint, it is poised with a hint of Gevrey rigidity and finely grained tannins. There is precision here, but not at the cost of succulence. Finishes very prettily.

Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Ruchots’

06 x 75cl - £690 IB

Les Ruchots is a prime site on the border with Chambolle (next to Sentiers) and directly below Bonnes Mares and part of Clos de Tart. It is noticeably warmer here due to the partial wall surrounding the vineyard and the iron rich soil adds complexity. With plenty of red succulent fruit, morello cherries, dark raspberries and white spice, this is textural, complex and long. It may take some time to fully reveal itself.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Sentiers’

03 x 75cl - £378 IB

Drink from 2027+

From a tiny 0.23ha plot on the border with Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Les Ruchots (and just below Bonnes Mares). An elevated nose of blackberry and blackcurrant with a wild mint green streak that provides freshness and a heady aroma of stems. It is enticing from the first sniff. The palate is a little reserved at present, but is so finely grained, precise, focused and finishing with a purity that leads me to think this will reward a few years in the cellar.

Gevrey-Chambertin

1er Cru ‘Aux Combottes’

03 x 75cl - £420 IB

A third of the vines were planted in 1924, a third planted in 1958 and the youngest were planted in 1996. It is quintessential Combottes with a dark fruit and mineral profile, gloss yet elegance and fresh acidity. There is subtlety and layered complexity, which requires time to be coaxed to the fore. It is a very elegant Combottes.

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

06 x 75cl - £1200 IB 03 x 150cl - £1230 IB

Deep with an impressive build up of fruit, which seems flawless, but has density of texture. There certainly is the grip of Gevrey but the tannins are so polished as is the black and red fruit that mingle on the palate. It is an elegant Charmes, but with plenty of matière and intensity to allow this to age for a long time. All the fruit comes from Mazoyères-Chambertin with an average vine age of 55 years (the oldest are 75).

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £750 IB 03 x 150cl - £1530 IB

Half the vines are 40 years old and the other half are 70 years old. This is a powerful, mineral driven, pure Clos de la Roche. It is elegant with a floral red fruited lift on the nose and sensual sweet fruited mid-palate with a beautiful green lift giving freshness and distinct petrichor on the finish.

Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £960 IB 03 x 150cl - £1980 IB

The vines here are nearly 50 years old and the Grand Cru speaks for itself. It has a heady perfume, with an explosion of red fruit and the finesse of tannins is exceptional (they are there, but so seamless that the wine seems to float despite its intensity). Cyprien says that ‘the goal was to get the complexity and texture at ripe tannins’ and he has succeeded completely.

Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £1200 IB

03 x 150cl - £2490 IB

Bourgogne ‘OKA’

12 x 75cl - £192 IB

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Rouge

06 x 75cl - £114 IB

The fruit comes from a plot of 60-year-old low trained vines close to Vosne-Romanée, on 10cm of soil on hard bedrock. There is plenty of freshness with crunchy red fruit and brightness on this cuvée. A pretty Hautes Côtes that quickly leads to a conversation about the rise in quality Hautes Côtes across the Côtes de Nuits. Cyprien acknowledges that global warming has made a difference, but he strongly believes that the ‘biggest difference is the care that people give it’.

Côtes de Nuits villages

06 x 75cl - £132 IB

Nuits-Saint-Georges

06 x 75cl - £228 IB

Morey-Saint-Denis ‘Clos Solon’

06 x 75cl - £240 IB

Vosne-Romanée

06 x 75cl - £324 IB

From 50-year-old vines in Aux Communes, this decadent Vosne combines red and blue fruit and is infused with fennel and peppery spice. Though sumptuous on the front and midpalate, it finishes in a linear focused manner.

Vosne-Romanée ‘Aux Réas’

06 x 75cl - £360 IB

This is a large climat and though not owned by Cyprien, he has been in charge of the vineyard since 2013 which has been certified organic since 2019. It has a loyal following among our customers as it always overperforms, but 2021 may be the best vintage yet. Cyprien acknowledges that the quality of the wine is increasing year on year and attributes this to the health of the vineyard increasing as it adapts to organic viticulture. The work Cyprien puts into this vineyard is the same as for his own vineyards. The 2021 is medium bodied, but sumptuous with crushed strawberry fruit, succulent cranberries and perfumed rose petal with hints of white pepper and a fine tannin structure.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Petits Monts’

06 x 75cl - £792 IB Echezeaux Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £570 IB

DOMAINE STÉPHANE MAGNIEN

• Côte de Nuits - Morey-Saint-Denis

• Winemaker: Stéphane Magnien

It was a quick visit to see Stéphane Magnien this year as his compact and bijou winery in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis suffered quite badly from the frost, losing between 40-60% of its production depending on the appellation. Keen to maximise the fruit intensity over the structure of the wines, Stéphane opted for pumping over rather than the more extractive pigeage and results seem to have been pretty successful. A slightly earlier than usual bottling was planned to continue to capture as much fruit as possible.

Bourgogne Aligoté

06 x 75cl - £72 IB

Coteaux Bourguignons ‘Tradition’

06 x 75cl - £72 IB

Drink from 2024

A bright, fresh, fruity wine, softer in style helped by 50% Gamay in with the 50% Pinot. It is open and rounded and built for early drinking. The grapes are sourced from two older parcels at the bottom of the village of Morey.

Coteaux Bourguignons ‘Pur Pinot Noir’

06 x 75cl - £84 IB

Drink from 2024

From a parcel of Pinot Noir at the bottom of the village, some of the vines here were planted back in 1960. The wine is full of fruit, both red fruits and a touch of blackberry too. Very fresh and open, with nice purity and a good reference for the vintage from Stéphane.

Morey-Saint-Denis ‘Grains Fins’

06 x 75cl - £192 IB

Drink from 2024

From two parcels of fairly young vines, averaging probably around fifteen years, the wine is open and fresh. Lots of bright fruits, redcurrants, raspberry and with delicacy on the palate, fine grain tannins and good length.

Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £210 IB

Drink from 2025

This is made from old vines, planted between 1950-1970. Always good structure and textured, with good grip. The fruit is darker here, more ripe cherry with cranberry and black berry, and a dry mineral finish. Judicious use of oak (around 15% in 2021) gives the wine an elegance and purity.

Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £264 IB

Morey-Saint-Denis

1er Cru Cuvée ‘Aux Petits Noix’ 06 x 75cl - £372 IB

Drink from 2026

Normally an assemblage of Clos Baulet and Les Gruenchers, in 2021 it also includes Monts Luisants. Very fruit forward, with dark berry fruits and good concentration and minerality, good depth and fine tannins with a long finish.

Morey-Saint-Denis

1er Cru ‘Les Faconnières’

06 x 75cl - £396 IB

Drink from 2027

This is a great vineyard, just below Clos de la Roche, with very stoney and complex soils. The 2021 from Stéphane is full of dark berry fruit flavours and at the moment is tight on the palate, very mineral and structured, with real concentration and tension and fine grain tannins.

Picture © Jon Wyand

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Sentiers’

03 x 75cl - £210 IB

Drink from 2026

Just next to Bonnes-Mares, this is excellent terroir with old vines. The nose is open and perfumed; floral, violets, red cherry, raspberry and forest fruits. Really smooth tannins and nice minerality and structure, leading into a long and classy finish.

Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £468 IB

Drink from 2028

Another old vine parcel, mostly planted in the early 70s and in one of the best sites for Pinot Noir in the world. Intensity and power on the nose already, the palate is all about the structure and minerality, taut and pure; plenty of fruit and complexity here but still tight knit and linear. A real sense of tension and stoniness, true to site and varietal. The finish is long and layered.

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £468 IB

Drink from 2027

Good vine age here, with a 40 year average, most planted between 1980-1986. A lovely nose, floral, ripe and open; big volume on the palate, dark forest berry fruit, concentration, sweet tannins, depth and breadth in the middle of the palate. Complex but smooth and inviting. The finish is layered, mineral and long. Put your hand up quick as only three barrels were made.

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN

Gevrey-Chambertin is the last of the ‘big’ villages heading north up the Côte. With Morey to its south it merges into Brochon to its north with Fixin beyond that. In terms of surface under vine Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest village in the Côte de Nuits, with over 300 hectares of village-level wines planted, a significant proportion of which lie to the east of the village. Most domaines have several different parcels which are vinified separately to make a single cuvée that reflects the differing characteristics of each plot. Some of the Premiers Crus are quite small (the average size is three hectares, and many are smaller than that) with the real sweet spot being the area to the north west of village, where a cooling breeze comes down through the combe and there is a great mix of soil types. This is where the likes of Clos St Jacques and Cazetiers are situated. All the Grands Crus lie together clustered around Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze. Despite their proximity to one another they each have their own distinctive character.

• 332ha of Gevrey-Chambertin Village

• 78ha of Gevrey-Chambertin 1ers Crus

• 26 different 1ers Crus

• 85ha of Grands Crus

• 9 different Grands Crus

DOMAINE HENRI MAGNIEN

• Côte de Nuits - Gevrey-Chambertin

• Winemaker: Charles Magnien

There is nothing more exciting than beginning to work with a grower in the early stages of their inexorable rise to the top and Charles Magnien, of Gevrey-based Domaine Henri Magnien, very much falls into this category. His good humour belies a determined passion to produce the best possible wines he can, leaving nothing to chance in both the vineyard and the cellar. His attention to detail in both is impressive but what is most exciting is that his talent matches his ambition and allows him to take his range up a notch with each new vintage. He is blessed with some lovely plots, including Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, his signature vineyard of Les Cazetiers and a small parcel of Ruchottes-Chambertin. He has absolutely nailed his 2021s, each wine displaying both flair and finesse, alongside an innate concentration.

Bourgogne ‘Côte d’Or’

06 x 75cl - £126 IB

Côte de Nuits Villages ‘Clos François Thurot’ Monopole

06 x 75cl - £162 IB 03 x 150cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2026

This is a new wine in the range coming from a monopole of 0.68 hectares of 45 year old vines that lies to the north of Brochon close to the Premiers Crus of Fixin. It’s an impressive debut, showing good intensity and balance with the fruit structure in great harmony.

Gevrey-Chambertin

06 x 75cl - £228 IB

Drink from 2026

This is a blend of seven different parcels from various sectors of the village, with vine-age expanding from 10 to 40 years. There is real concentration on the finish which suggests there is plenty of scope for development.

Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £282 IB 03 x 150cl - £294 IB

Drink from 2028

This has even more parcels, being a blend of eight villages dotted around but the ages of the vines are much more significant, the youngest vines being 40 years and the oldest being 100. The sheer concentration of the wine gives it an appealing immediacy of luscious fruit but there is so much more to come.

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Champerrier’

06 x 75cl - £312 IB 03 x 150cl - £324 IB

Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru ‘La Coutière’

06 x 75cl - £330 IB

Drink from 2027

Charles acquired these wines about four years ago with his first vintage being 2018. Since then, he has done a lot of work in the vineyards, including the addition of a significant amount of organic compost. The results have been excellent and the vineyard seems to have come alive again in his care. 2021 is actually a bigger vintage than 2020 for this plot, testament to the health of the vines. The quality of the tannins in what can often be a rustic appellation in the wrong hands, shows what can be achieved with the right approach and overall finesse of the wine is impressive.

Gevrey-Chambertin

1er Cru ‘Les Champeaux’

06 x 75cl - £462 IB 03 x 150cl - £474 IB

Drink from 2028

Champeaux lies to the north of the village on the borders of Brochon in the same sector as Cazetiers, Clos St Jacques and Lavaux St Jacques so it keeps good company. This example shows lovely purity, definition and wonderful aromatic Gevrey character. Quite lovely.

Picture © Domaine Henri Magnien

Gevrey-Chambertin

1er Cru ‘Estournelles Saint-Jacques’

06 x 75cl - £492 IB

03 x 150cl - £504 IB

Drink from 2028

Estournelles lies towards the top of the aforementioned block, benefitting from the shared south-facing aspect as well as the cool breeze that freshens the Combe de Lavaux. It’s only 2 hectares in its entirety and formed of white marl and a strong mix of clay and limestone. The vines here are 60 years old and the wine is very complete. Great harmony and seamless balance.

Gevrey-Chambertin

1er Cru ‘Lavaux Saint-Jacques’

06 x 75cl - £516 IB

03 x 150cl - £528 IB

Drink from 2028

Despite a touch of reduction this seems beautifully ‘en place’ and is really quite sumptuous with a delicious sweetness of fruit flirting shamelessly with its energetic vibrancy.

Corton Grand Cru ‘Les Grandes Lolières’

06 x 75cl - £528 IB

Drink from 2028

One of the best Cortons tasted in a long time. Like the Premier Cru Aloxe, this bears little resemblance to the often lumpy wines of the appellation, displaying fine aromas, lovely energy and sapidity. Real refinement and length.

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘4 Carac’Terres’

03 x 75cl - £450 IB

Drink from 2028

This is a tiny cuvée (just four hundred bottles made in 2021) from the best bits of the best bunches from the four Premiers Crus of Gevrey. The large team on the sorting table carefully cut away the outlying grapes leaving just the core of the bunches which are vinified with the stems. The resulting wine is lush and decadent and will seduce those lucky enough to get to taste it.

Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Les Cazetiers’

06 x 75cl - £540 IB

03 x 150cl - £552 IB

Drink from 2029

Charles has a significant holding of Cazetiers and it has very much become his signature wine. He likes to point out that his parcel is the only one that encompasses all the different soil types within the vineyard allowing him to make a very complete and complex example. It is a little more backward and structured than his other Premiers Crus and will need more time to fully display its evident quality.

03 x 75cl - £660 IB 03 x 150cl - £1440 IB 01 x 300cl - £1000 IB

Drink from 2029

Ruchottes is such a lovely vineyard and this is a truly wonderful example of its sheer class. Stony, fizzing with energy and typicity and full of beautifully fine yet intensely concentrated fruit. There are not enough superlatives to do this wine justice.

•

DOMAINE DUROCHÉ

• Côte de Nuits - Gevrey-Chambertin

Winemaker: Pierre Duroché

We first began importing Pierre’s wines back in the late noughties not long after we had set up the company and we have been equally proud and impressed by Pierre’s evolution from a fresh-faced vigneron to one of the most sought-after winemakers in the Côte de Nuits. Today, his wines are just the most seductive, gorgeous and effervesvent examples of Pinot Noir one could wish for. His extraction is very gentle and his use of new oak is minimal. It’s all about allowing the vineyards to talk and express their magic. And he certainly has some magic vineyards at village, Premier and Grand Cru level. Frustratingly, volumes are rarely huge at this domaine and hail in the summer, on top of the frost, did little to enhance them in 2021. This is a great set of wines and bribes may be required to get your hands on some!

Bourgogne Blanc ‘Les Grands Champs’

06 x 75cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2025

A rare Chardonnay from this northern part of the Cote de Nuits which shows lovely bright fresh flavours and plenty of lusciousness.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

06 x 75cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2024

A lovely Pinot; pretty, subtle, pure and a delicate underlying richness. Very clean and stylish.

Gevrey-Chambertin - Négociant

06 x 75cl - £378 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin

06 x 75cl - £378 IB 03 x 150cl - £396 IB

Drink from 2026

This is made up of five different parcels dotted around the village, some of which might have made it into their own cuvee had volumes not been so reduced. It’s light and pretty but feels like there is a certain substance to it that will emerge given enough time. Fine featured and well controlled.

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Les Jeunes Rois’

06 x 75cl - £540 IB

Drink from 2027

This excellent plot of 0.7 hectares yielded just four barrels in 2021, when normally it might comfortably reach double figures and beyond. It has more structure than the blended Gevrey and seems more backward though the fruit is lifted and energetic. Really quite impressive.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Fuées’

03 x 75cl - £480 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin

1er Cru ‘Lavaut Saint-Jacques’

03 x 75cl - £630 IB 03 x 150cl - £1350 IB 01 x 300cl - £1000 IB

Drink from 2027

This is one of Pierre’s larger parcels and the style of the Cru really complements Pierre’s style of winemaking, adding real seamless drive to the very, very pretty, abundant red fruits. Serious wine and still rather good value.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

‘Lavaut Saint-Jacques’ Vieilles Vignes

03 x 75cl - £840 IB

Vosne-Romanée

06 x 75cl - £420 IB

Drink from 2026

This comes from the same source but is a little more backward in style, showing a touch more grip and structure. Consequently, it will need a little more time to soften and open up but it has all the right ingredients.

Picture © Domaine Duroché

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Cuvée 26’

03 x 75cl - £990 IB

03 x 150cl - £2040 IB

Drink from 2027

Just two non-new barrels of this special cuvée were made. The fruit comes from destemmed Etelois grapes, picked berry by berry, and whole bunch Estournelles St Jacques and Cazetiers grapes. The resulting wine is one of exemplary precision, energy and seamless balance.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Amoureuses’

03 x 75cl - £1650 IB

Echezeaux Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £1200 IB

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £1200 IB

Drink from 2028

As ususal this was the first wine to be harvested as it always ripens first. Richer than expected with darker fruits, lots of flesh and a lush, exciting elongated finish.

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £1650 IB

Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £1800 IB

Drink from 2028

Brilliant wine. Lovely control, balance, elegance and energy, and obviously very long and stylish. Moutwatering mineral sapidity coming straight from the terroir.

Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

01 x 75cl - £1000 IB

DOMAINE GEANTET-PANSIOT

• Côte de Nuits - Gevrey-Chambertin

• Winemaker: Fabien Geantet

Fabien Geantet runs this more modern domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin with a jovial charm and produces wines very much in his character. Lean and mean they are not, yet he keeps them nicely on the right side of the richness barometer to keep the purists happy. These 2021s suit the slightly more fruit friendly character of the wines and their natural vibrancy brings an appealing sense of purpose and drive.

Marsannay Blanc ‘Les Vaudenelles’

06 x 75cl - £240 IB

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Rouge 06 x 75cl - £123 IB

Marsannay ‘Champ Perdrix’

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £318 IB

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Baudes’ 03 x 75cl - £342 IB

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Feusellottes’ 03 x 75cl - £342 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Cuvée Edmund’ 06 x 75cl - £390 IB

Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes

06 x 75cl - £390 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Poissenot’ 06 x 75cl - £594 IB

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 06 x 75cl - £1020 IB

•

DOMAINE BERTHAUT-GERBET

• Côte de Nuits - Fixin

Winemaker: Amélie Berthaut

Amélie Berthaut has absolutely nailed her 2021s, the wines seemingly wellsuited to the extra drive and classicism of the vintage. Overall, she lost about 50% of her usual volume, though percentages obviously varied significantly across her various vineyards. She used a little whole bunch on certain cuvées, but kept levels a little lower than usual, although they are never excessive anyway. The fruit concentration across the range is impressive and the natural vibrancy really projects the nuances and complexity of the individual wines.

Fixin Blanc

06 x 75cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2025

Fresh, bright, citrus nose with lime zest, Granny Smith, and lifted acidity. Stoney and energetic, good weight and a long finish.

Bourgogne ‘Les Prielles’

06 x 75cl - £90 IB

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits

06 x 75cl - £102 IB

Drink from 2024

From a parcel near Nuits-Saint-Georges, with a good aspect and a nice mix of some old vines, this is a great intro to the 2021s from Amélie. Very floral, perfumed, with violets and roses, redcurrants and red cherry fruit character. Soft and gentle tannins and structure, leading to a long finish.

Côte de Nuits Villages

06 x 75cl - £135 IB

Fixin Rouge

06 x 75cl - £159 IB

03 x 150cl - £168 IB

Drink from 2024

Sourced from four parcels around the village with some of the vines dating back to 1947 and the youngest 1984. The 2021 Fixin is bright and open, with red fruits, cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. A lovely ripeness but with nice balance of acidity and fresh tannin, with a gentle, long finish.

Fixin ‘Les Crais’

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Drink from 2025

This single vineyard from the heart of the village is a great expression of Fixin. A lovely perfume; floral, seductive and inviting. The palate is bright and open, with red fruits. Juicy and concentrated. Smooth tannins and nice tension from the acidity and minerality, and a layered finish.

Fixin ‘Les Clos’

06 x 75cl - £180 IB

Fixin ‘En Combe Roy’

06 x 75cl - £228 IB

Drink from 2026

Amélie has about .37 ha of this vineyard, that sits just under the Premier Cru and the vines were planted in 1961. Only three barrels produced, meaning lots of people are going to be disappointed. The nose of the 2021 was floral but with darker fruits. The palate was layered, textured but with precision, concentration and well-defined tannins, good acidity, and a long, complex finish.

Fixin 1er Cru ‘Les Arvelets’

06 x 75cl - £342 IB

Drink from 2026

A great site in Fixin, with a real mix of soils: clay, limestone and sand. The nose is perfumed, floral, with ripe red fruits. The palate is bright and open, again sweet forest fruits, with a generosity in the mid-palate but leading into a mineral and long, textured finish.

Picture © Simon Owen

Gevrey-Chambertin

06 x 75cl - £252 IB

Vosne-Romanée

06 x 75cl - £300 IB

03 x 150cl - £312 IB

Drink from 2026

Made from three parcels in Vosne, including vines from two parcels from ‘Aux Réas’ and one parcel from ‘Rivière’. Fragrant and inviting, perfumed, with forest berry fruits. Such elegance and concentration, with smooth, sweet tannins and an enticing long finish. Top drawer!

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Cazetiers’

03 x 75cl - £252 IB

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Plantes’

03 x 75cl - £264 IB

Gevrey-Chambertin

1er Cru ‘Lavaux St Jacques’

03 x 75cl - £270 IB

Drink from 2027

One of Gevreys best 1er Cru vineyards for me, always has been a bit cooler due to the influence of the Combe de Lavaux, which has cooling air coming down from the Côtes. In the hands of Amélie it can be truly magnificent and this did not disappoint. Dark cherry notes and a cool fruited centre, intense and driven. Good tension of acidity and tannins; there’s real class here, with layers of fruit and minerality, highly strung with a long finish. Tight right now but will be a great wine!

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Petits Monts’

03 x 75cl - £312 IB

Drink from 2028

From old vines right in the middle of the vineyard, which sits just above the Richebourg. Attacks with floral notes, lots of red fruits on the nose, redcurrant, raspberry and Fraise des Bois. Seductive perfume, finely tuned, textured, velvety tannins and an almost creamy feel to the red fruits in the mid-palate and stoney minerality. Very complex, layered and long, with a finesse that belies its youth. Wow!

Echezeaux Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £480 IB

Drink from 2027

Assembled from 3 tiny parcels in different sectors of the vineyard, all planted back in 1934. In 2021, despite all the difficulty, this is showing really well and full of promise. The fruit is much darker; dark cherry, plum and blackberry. The palate is intense, with a nervous energy and good tension in the tannins which are fine and precise, and well-balanced acidity. Good drive through into a long finish.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Suchots’

03 x 75cl - £312 IB

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

03 x 75cl - £480 IB

03 x 150cl - £990 IB

Drink from 2028

A tiny parcel of old vines, planted in 1956. An attractive nose of dark forest berry fruits. Intense! The palate is dense and structured, with some real meat on the bones already. The tannins have grip but are super-smooth, while the acidity gives it a lift and there’s some real energy provided by the minerality too. Clos Vougeot can be tricky but in the right hands can produce real class, like this.

•

DOMAINE COILLOT

• Côte de Nuits - Marsannay

Winemaker: Christophe Coillot

Christophe Coillot keeps things nice and simple, just making very delicious, exceedingly drinkable Marsannays that offer a lot of wine for very sensible money. The wines, though structured, are quite fruit friendly, the earthiness of the appellation being offset by plenty of ripe, earthy fruit that flirts between red and black. They really hit their stride after about three years and these 21s should be no exception.

Marsannay

06 x 75cl - £156 IB

‘Grasses Têtes’

Drink from 2025

Christophe Coillot continues to make delicious, fruit forward wines with depth and juicy tannins and his oddly named ‘Fat Head’ cuvée is expecially expansive, rich and lush yet with enough structure to lift and focus thr fruit perfectly.

Marsannay ‘Boivins’

06 x 75cl - £174 IB

Drink from 2026

The Boivins is the more serious, backward of the two wines showing more structure and depth and a little more tannin. The fruit is perhaps slightly earthier and there is certainly more weight. Drink the Grasse Têtes whilst waiting for the Boivins to mature fully.

Picture © Domaine Coillot

TERMS & CONDITIONS

All prices quoted are In Bond (ex Duty & VAT), and all EP orders will be invoiced exclusive of Duty and VAT.

In order to qualify for the prices published in this offer, your order must be confirmed and invoiced by us before 1st May 2023. Orders processed after that date will not qualify for offer pricing and will be priced for the open market rate.

Large formats may be available, please let us know if you are interested in these.

All the wines are currently lying in France and are offered subject to availability. Certain wines will be heavily oversubscribed, forcing us to allocate, with preference given to those who have followed a producer for many years and who continually support us widely across this and other vintages.

We have requested the case sizes published in this offer from our producers and expect them to be accurate, however circumstances beyond our control can lead to wines arriving in alternative case sizes.

We expect to receive most wines into the UK by December 2023. All wines being delivered Duty Paid will incur a duty and VAT invoice, generated at the point of release from our bonded warehouse. Payment of this is due as per your agreed credit terms.

Delivery from our bond to UK mainland is free of charge for orders over £500, otherwise a delivery charge of £15 ex VAT will apply.

Under bond transfers to other bonded warehouses will incur a delivery charge of £15 ex VAT per order. Transfers to your customer reserves with Flint Wines will be free of charge.

INDEPENDENT REVIEWS

Allen Meadows www.burghound.com

Tim Atkin MW www.timatkin.com

Jancis Robinson OBE, MW www.jancisrobinson.com

Neal Martin www.vinous.com

Sarah Marsh MW www.theburgundybriefing.com

Steen Öhman www.winehog.org

Jasper Morris MW www.insideburgundy.com

William Kelley www.robertparker.com

CREDITS

All maps are from The Wines of Burgundy (Collection Pierre Poupon, collectionpierrepoupon.com) with the authorization of the authors Sylvain Pitiot and Jean-Charles Servant. All rights for reproduction, translation and adaptation are reserved. © 2014, Collection Pierre Poupon.

Cover picture, picture page 92 © Simon Owen