1.reflection 2.consumer 3.pop up 4.branding 5.competitors 6.range 7.advertising 8.social media 9.ppd diary 10.references
Introduction & Reflection This portfolio contains my personal research, analysis and development in relation to the Creative Collaborative Project with Harry Hall. A large part of this work is formed of my research and subsequent development of the Harry Hall “fashion” range but also my own analysis of social media and direction of travel for the brand. As with any collaborative ones preferences and ideas are (quite rightly) not always those that are chosen for the final outcome and therefore to that end I have tried to provide some narrative on the final group decisions and reflect on reasons why my personal preference is different in some cases. I believe that this reflection can only help in developing me further as a designer. Firstly looking back at our original group manifesto I think we stuck to the agrreement and it worked well. We didn’t however identify a leader and this time, for us it worked.
Creative Collaboration - Group 5 1.
How will you manage meetings so that every group member is heard?
We will arrange meetings around the college sessions and at times that are suitable to all members. We will realise participation fully by using skype etc if needed. We will appoint a group leader. We will appoint one member of the group to facilitate each meeting and be group leader and as facilitator at the end of each meeting they will ask each individual team member if: - - -
They have any more points to raise They are happy with the meeting and how it went Is there anything we’d do differently
2. How will you make decisions? We will make sure we consider everyone’s viewpoint and ultimately will go with majority to reach consensus if necessary. We will balance the pro’s and con’s of each idea. 3. How will you create roles appropriate to each member of the team? We will consider our skills, knowledge and personal preferences to do this. We were a larger collaborative group and whilst one could argue that this would give a smaller workload there was the challenge that for the body of work there was quite a lot of overlap which could lead to confusion as work overlapped somewhat. For this reason I concentrated mainly on the design apsects i.e. the extention of the range as there were quite a few members working on the pop up shop and the media campaign.
One of the group members ended up being responsible for pulling the work together into a cohesive design - i.e. fonts, colour ways, aeasthetic; which was good for presentatons and for the final group portfolio. We could as a group have discussed this earlier however as I think this led to some wasted time early on; for example I would spend a no. of hours on a mood board and then this would be changed. Perhaps a more efficient use of time would have been for me to source images and then send to the group member to collate. This is the position we got to later and this worked very positively as I think can be evidenced by the stregth of presentation and final outcome. In terms of the design work I think this project has enabled me to think about different concepts and consumer bases. The HH target market is not my usual area of interest. For me its quite a conservative area and I think the DHL considerations were in part concieved by me to add additional interest. Again however this facillitated me to analyse my own areas of interest more which has been positive. I wanted to go on and on with the range plans but fnally I considered that I needed to keep and edited version which to me seemed to be in line with what HH wanted at this time, I hope in the future they can add in more lines and become adventurous. Certainly tech fabrics are worth considering as are menswear or unisex., I probably didnt engage so much with the taught aspects on presentation skills - these are fundamentals in my work life and at this stage I dont really want to reflect on my presentation style - at this stage of life I’m unlikely to change that style, I think this would “wrong foot me”. It was also interesting to balance this with a technical design unit.. whilst making me divide my time carefully I think the CC project assisted with my portfolio design descisions in both projects. ..and how did the project work for me in terms of development. I’m very senior in my day job and have the authority to have final say in most decisions. So this was an interesting experience as if I am going to undertake design work on graduating I am going to have to get used to joint decision working again and indeed not “being in charge”; besides its always good to remeber to listen again. Finally a word on this, my portfolio. The imagery in the portfolio is not included to be flippant or dismissive of the HH brand in any way but in order to help move thinking forward for the brand - yes I have included quite extreme images for this brand but I hope it gets across my message which is to push it all much further.
company needs to think about key collaborators -product they can't produce themselves
classic gucci styling
Liberty also key stockist for future
..not all the target audience are going to live in Notting Hill!
.. she probably has to work too!
pop up these candles would be a good brand collaborative (True Grace)
this needs to move away from the village fete concept and become more sophisticated, otherwise will not reach target audience or attract new customers.
my initial floorplan was based on a photograph of the room and considered that in a fairly restrictive space some key outcomes were required: information area and space for discussing range with buyers, press etc. area for the photo booth concept. display area for clothes that needed to facillitate 360 viewing bar area well away from door and product
repeating is really important, the constant use of a a particular image can reinforce a brand. the harry hall logos lend themselves to this and this should be taken advantage of..
moving forward hh should keep a range of garments that remain stable and underpin new designs. they should consider carefully how they move forward with the coats and with the current price range ÂŁ800 - ÂŁ1000 they are going to need to get new customers each year. also rather than comparing themselves with max mara and not to think of their products as asimilar standard but more value for money they need to consider that in liberty they will be competing with other brands wo have sourced interesting and unique textiles. for example: in liberty an acne studios coat in a unique woven wool and print is currently priced at ÂŁ799. will their range stand up against these in terms of quality, vfm and fashion.
this is excellent branding by hunter, its very similar to uniqlo.. same design with lots of colour which widens market at much as possible fresh clean positive youthful
need to look at revising website font
quite like the logo
complete rethink on models & styling - have to tone down the horsey
harry hall are making t heir fashion journey in a different way to t hat of hunt er & barbour. hunt er & barbour bot h commenced t he fashion journey in the late 00's onwards by making t he exist ing product s desirable fashion it ems, only lat er developing more creat ive garments. in cont rast hh do not have current garment s t hat t hey can do this wit h, so are st art ing t he jorney wit h what is effectively a brand facelift or brand ext ent ion. t hey want t o build upon their hist ory; in order t o do t his t hey need t o reach back and identify t hese unique at t ribut es, refreshing t hem for t he 21st century. hunt er and barbour of course had previously had a brief foray into t he fashion world abeit t hat t hat of t he sloane ranger in the 1980's, on t hat occasision when t he sloane look went out of fashion t hey did not move forward wit h more radical fashion, t hey did bot h however st regt hen t heir market and knock out some of t he compet ion: part ridge, keeper wear, teal countrywear. so hh need t o updat e t heir ent ire port folio as i believe this would provide st abilit y should t he fashion market not be as great as t hey envisage. i also feel that they may benefit from also searching out a more youthful, city based and less class based market the millenial.
..if Harry Hall do nothing else in regards to the range at the moment they shoulld develop the cashmere knitwear. This will give them an opportunity to produce a cross over or bridging product between the equestrian and the fashion. the opportunities then exist to add in some much needed colour, in adition the company should develop this at the hign end of the market so it can be durable, luxury and desired.
Carreon, J (2016) 30 Wardrobe Essentials You Should Own by the Time You're 30, Elle Uk. Available at: http://www.elle.com/fashion/accessories/advice/g25668/30-fashion-staples-to-have-by-30/
Smart, N (2016) 50 classic pieces, Vogue UK.
Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/classic-fashion-wardrobe-essentials Pustetto, M. (2016) 10 winter essentials you must have. Available at: https://www.thetrendspotter.net/2015/06/10-winter-wardrobes-essentials-you-must-have.html
the garments appear to lack structure at this stage. also they are still very equestrian but with a loss of function. e.g. the wax jacket. my addtions need to nudge it toward fashion and also to bridge gap. must add more colour.
the range needs the introduction of some additional garments in order to give breadth and versatility. the recommendation is to add in a blouse, field jacket, shift dress and mackintosh. for me the range sits in a bit of a twilight zone between seasons and the additions i have recommended may add flexibility. cashmere sweaters form an important bridging garment between the equestrian and the fashion. the scarf concept has been raised by more than one collaborative group and is an important one; my idea is that this should be a direct collaboration with liberty with new designs realised. this would strengthen our groups suggestion that liberty would be a key stockist and a permanent presence in liberty a key aim for the brand moving forward. achievement of this would be a milestone of success. in order to do this however the brand needs to strengthen the fashion aspect and identify its own eccentricity and quirkiness. additionally, a splash of colour is needed without this the garments are simply too monotonous. colour palette should collide with the subdued palette that has already been planned. fabric should remain practical; warm / cool, weather resistant, natural and luxury fibre. therefore, cashmere, cottons, wool are key.
moving forward hh should keep a range of garments that remain stable and underpin new designs. they should consider carefully how they move forward with the coats and with the current price range £800 - £1000 they are going to need to get new customers each year. also rather than comparing themselves with max mara they should not to think of their products “as a similar standard but more value for money” rather they need to consider that in liberty they will be competing with other brands wo have sourced interesting and unique textiles and push the boundaries. for example: in liberty an acne studios coat in a unique woven wool and print is currently priced at £799. will their range stand up against these in terms of quality, vfm and fashion.
the colours for the range were based on a continuation of the colours in the range to date but also by considering colours that would lift the range. a broad spectrum of colour will widen the consumer as well. this has been used to great effect by hunter and uniqlo. for fabric, cashmere is appealing and luxiurious, modern tecnology has produced very fine cashmere suitable for lightweight dresses. boiled wool adds additional interest through texture.
colour & fabric
cashmere / wool blend
when considering development of the scarf HH should consider collaboration with a company such as liberty. they should however avoid developing a product that is too equestrian in nature as they could be in danger of developing something that is to near to the hermes scarf. they could consider using some of their archive prints but if they do they should have design reworked. they could consider using the logo in some way.
using the iconic libery purple and the hh vintage logo both started on regent street could in future be linked to an anniversary year
camp, c. 2011. Walls of fame: Business is still booming for Victorian designer William Morris' company 150 years on (The Independent) Availible at: http://www.independent.co.uk/property/interiors/walls-of-fame-business-is-still-booming-for-victorian-designer-william-m orris-company-150-years-on-2238613.html
"It's an interesting brand to work with because it is so recognisable," says design director Liz Cann. "It could only be Morris." What makes Morris & Co unique is that, unlike other companies of a similar age, it hasn't really grown or developed over the years. Morris was such a key part of it that when he died the company went very quiet. "It doesn't date because it's never been moved on," adds Cann. "It's like a time capsule."
the hunter concept of dividing website for sales and advertising into the "concept" & the "heritage/ field" seems appropriate for hh. on the main website quirky detail such as the seasonal winter hunterland provides a link between the two which may draw in new customers. this would be the most effective way of hh updating the overall feel of the website whilst still providing a easy to navigate site for exisiting customers and for new customers a way to bypass the jodhpurs, fleeces and saddle blankets.
the colours used are quite earthy. consider litening overall look with crisp white shirt,or blouse. scarves, either very bright colour or pattern. to show versatility show how the range can be worn with either just a shirt or with a cashmere. the message here its versatile and you can layer.
the vetement effect
could be used as a marketing campaign adjunct.. but could look at doing something to make the brand tee an object of desire..
whilst i like the concept of using the t shirt in the same way as vetements used dhl, i donâ€™t consider that the current direction at harry hall would facilitate this and on reflection isnâ€™t treally their market. however it would be great if another high fashion street wear company adopted their logo in order to do this as it would provide great publicity.
this article gives a good account of the vetement design conceptand is fair in its critque, however the autheor does challenge the company about how they compel us to buy a garment “with a hefty price tag” simply because its fashion. but for me this is the whole point, maybe this is an important lesson for brands; it doesnt matter how you do it but you need to make your designs the object of desire, and keep doing it. yes as he states vetements are “clothes that make you feel like you’re about to wash dishes? Where’s the grand illusion there?” but it works. and why is that because of the novelty. will it wane, probably, any time soon? unlikely.
think jilly cooper
Stephey, mj, (2009) Sex Sells. Here's Why We Buy, Time Magazine http://content.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,1900032,00.html suggett, p (2016) does sex really sell? could hh have a tongue in cheek media campaign in future?
vogue, vogue france & purple magazine are good examples of where a more traditional font is mixed with a more modern font - this gives a freshness to the print. hh could consider using their current brand logo font with a more academic font. this is important going forward as invites need to catch the eye, especially if competing for attention later on at fashion week where many buyers, stylists and press will have competing invitations and events. catch te eye and make them feel the hh brand show is the one to visit.
Week 1. Quite a lot of the groups have already gone for it with skype groups etc. Think our group has gone for the slightly more laid back approach. I’m quite relaxed about this – I think its important to reflect on the information given and get some personal ideas so that contributions are cohesive and well thought out. Otherwise you can start off with too much “noise”. Had a look at the Harry Hall social media and website: the website is VERY W.A.S.P – all horsey white girls with 1980’s sloaney highlights. The worst font in the world – some kind of arial narrow I’m guessing. The move from Horsey / Hunting to fashion has worked before: Hunter Wellies, Barbour etc. I think this company have some way to go and slightly concerned that they don’t stand a cat in hells chance making themselves more “fashion” unless they radically rethink their design bt also ditch those hideous fleeces. What however would that do to their middle England, Andrea Leadsome style customers. More Fergie than Princess Margaret. They want Selfridges – think they’d be lucky to get Debenhams that said haven’t seen product yet. They have <1500 instagram followers… what does that say. There is a massive opportunity if they can do something with the logo and make it a trend – think Vetements with the DHL logo, Kappa logo’s in the 90’s etc. They need sexing up – need a bit of Jilly Cooper style equestrianism injecting into their company. They need to think about adding tech knit to the collection – massive opportunity here as will appeal to the current customers as well. I’m thinking natural fibres but with waterproofing etc.
Week 2. My initial contributions to the group agreement: 1. How will you manage meetings so that every group member is heard? We will arrange meetings around the college sessions and at times that are suitable to all members. We will realise participation fully by using skype etc if needed. We will appoint a group leader. We will appoint one member of the group to facilitate each meeting and as facilitator at the end of each meeting they will ask each individual team member if: •They have any more points to raise •They are happy with the meeting and how it went •Is there anything we’d do differently? 2.
How will you make decisions?
We will make sure we consider everyone's viewpoint and ultimately will go with majority to reach consensus. 3. How will you create roles appropriate to each member of the team? We will consider our skills, knowledge and personal preferences to do this. Good lecture on management and projects given this is something that I do every day at work it was good to “sit on the other side of the table”. Must remember that I’m strongly completer – finisher and shaper so therefor prone to a. not delegate and b. upset people if I get frustrated. Interestingly these traits come out far less in the academic environment than they do at work. Maybe it’s a confidence thing.. Sure a work place psychologist would have a field day with this. Having listened to the skype call and the rep. from HH I think they have a odd view of their own product. More to follow in my mood boards. Week 3. Good group meeting - work plan now covered!
Week 4. Need to get to one mood board from 7! Good news is all are the same vein which is reassuring I guess, however; I think at this stage though we should have honed our ideas down a little more. Also not quite sure we’re pushing it as much as we could on concept. If you look at the mood boards at this stage (ref. Tutorial 1 Slide Pack) I think the pop up shop mood board concept is really literal and obvious. Think we need to go further: texture, colour rather than making a room look like a fete in the Cotswolds. Finding it hard to get everyone to understand this which is frustrating. Learning - I put together the PPT last week, must remember to stipulate what format to class mates. Can’t waste time formatting peoples work into suitable files, time consuming, irritating etc. So be clear! Woke up at 4am this morning thinking about it and have become slightly obsessed with wanting to cover floor with astro -turf. Couldn’t get back to sleep as then started to work out how to lay this in a room. Then realised no one has started on illustrations of what room will look like. Also realised we’re yet to get a floor plan. I hope we can all agree not to have bunting and gingham table clothes. Need to be more cutting edge. TBH a gymkhana themed room would be better... Tutorial went well - think we all are clear on roles. Still worried about the bunting / village fete aesthetic as our other hope we can ditch that. Want to work more on tee shirt concept - as a marketing ploy for the buyers but also in the utlitiarian to fashion cross over. Think: Vetements – DHL, Dickies, How utilitarian becomes hip. Week 5. Tasks this week: Styling mood board Complimentary products: accessories and beauty (Think Cowshed, Think White Company, Think Smythson, Longchamp) Competitor profiles Colour research for cashmere jerseys Technical cashmere research I get really annoyed when we waste time debating what needs to be included in part of hand in. It is after all in the unit handbook... channelled my annoyance and did everyone a hand in checklist
Week 6. Tutorial went well – good set of slides and think we are moving forward with the aesthetic. Going to work on the range plan which is looking better than last week and going to add in a bit more. The scarf is going to be added and this links to my idea of a collaboration with Liberty. Also noticed link to my forecasting work – especially comfort my prediction that a royal death, marriage or coronation might well trigger another period of 50’s country [Cath Kidston / Orla Kierly] nostalgia fashion trends. This would be wrong decision for this brand as is predictable and not the direction I’d like brand to travel. Week 7. This is formative presentation week. We have good slides and a strong look - Am pleased with the look of my range boards. Was happy that other members put my moodboards into a new format. I am learning a lot frm working with media students in relation to a look book and social media aaesthetic.. and maybe in relation to slowing down when looking at images. From design maybe they are learning about less literal analysis of imagery. In the group I see lots of signs of a high performing team: cooperation trust contructive critisim praise collaboration support I’ve up of a nise
stood back from presenting - am the back odd for me.. but good that I can be less control freak: this is because I recogstrengths in other members.
I have gone 7 weeks and not upset anyone! Post Presentation: Presentation went really well. Usuing more imagery and less words certainly better way to do - should build on what we have for final presentation. 1-1 with Liz - HH think they have a collection because its AW17 its ok that its all coats and boots.. I don’t agree. Xmas Break. Worked on portfolio!! Slowing it down to produce a thoughful, focussed and detailed outcome! I HOPE.
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Bibliography Brannon, E. (2015). Fashion Forecasting. London: Bloomsbury Davis, M (2005). More Than a Name: SA. eBook
An Introduction to Branding. Switzerland: AVA Publishing
Roscan Abbing, E (2010). Brand-Driven Innovation, Strategies for development and design. Switzerland:AVA Publishing SA. (ebook) Torella, J (2001). Stop talking, start doing retail branding. Toronto, Williams. Web cessed December â€“ January 2016/17)
Brand Sites (research) www.barbour.com http://www.belstaff.co.uk/ www.dubarryboots.com http://www.fenwick.co.uk/brands/ www.harryhall.co.uk www.hunterboots.com www.libertylondon.com http://shop.nordstrom.com/c/womens-cashmere-sweaters www.uniqlo.com/uk Online articles: Aaker, D (2016) 6 Reasons why Uniqlo is winning. Available at: https://www.prophet.com/ thinking/2014/10/6-reasons-why-uniqlo-is-winning/ Carreon, J (2016) 30 Wardrobe Essentials You Should Own by the Time Youâ€™re 30, Elle Uk.Available at: http://www.elle.com/fashion/accessories/advice/g25668/30-fashion-staples-to-haveby-30/ Fenwicks (2016) How Hunter boots became an icon of British fashion. Available at: http:// www.fenwick.co.uk/daily-muse/articles/how-hunter-boots-became-an-icon-of-british-fashion Gardner, G (2014) How Hunter boots became a fashion icon. available at: http://www.scotsman. com/lifestyle/culture/fashion/hunter-wellies-get-re-boot-at-london-fashion-week-1-3291841 Sherman, L (2015) When heritage brands become a fashion icon available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/when-heritage-brands-become-accidental-fashion-labels Smart, N (2016) 50 classic pieces, Vogue UK. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/ classic-fashion-wardrobe-essentials Pustetto, M. (2016) 10 winter essentials you must have. Available at: https://www.thetrendspotter.net/2015/06/10-winter-wardrobes-essentials-you-must-have.html
avoid the obvious