Kristian Schuller Olga Valeska Stanislav Odyagailo
Cover Photo / Kristian Schuller
Interview / Kristian Schuller
Editorial / Caleb & Gladys
Editorial / Advan Matthew
Editorial / Darren Black
Interview / Olga Valeska
Editorial / Jose Luis Cunha
Editorial / Amelia Calderon
Editorial / Asha Amai
Interview / Kate Zambrano
Editorial / Karen Miley LFW
Editorial / Jason Healy
Editorial / Lynol Lui
Interview / Oka Diputra
Editorial / Stanislav Odyagailo
Editorial / Tamara Williams
Editorial / Alin Kovacs
Editorial / Antonella Cascino
Editorial / Luciano Doria
Interview / Claudia Behnke
Editorial / Wander Aguiar
Editorial / Gregory Metcalf
Interview / Sonja Mohlich
Editorial / Aytekin Yalﾃ（n
FLAWLESS TEAM Director Samson Ogunshe Creative Director Ricky Woodside www.urbanfoxltd.com
Subeditor Mags McMonagle Contributing Writer Carlotta Buosi
THE ENDLESSLY WONDERFUL WORLD OF Kristian Schuller INTERVIEW By Carlotta Buosi
Kristian Schuller is a Paris based photographer who has been shooting professionally for over twelve years. Although he has travelled the world, and has made his home in Paris, he spends the majority of his work time in London. His photographic work has been featured in Vogue Hellas. Harpers, Bazaar, Vogue Hellas, Harper’s Bazaar, Stiefelkonig and Vogue Gioiello, photographing models including Gisele Buendchen, Amber Arbucci and Heidi Klum. In 2004 Kristian’s photographic work featured on the front cover of Duran Duran’s Astronaut album. After his initial introduction by Isabella Blow to Condé Nast Publications in London, Kristian has continued working internationally with various fashion magazines and commercial clients.
Q1: Tell us about a day in the life of Kristian Schuller Every day is different. I could be doing anything like, running from one meeting to another, sketching for my next photo shoot or meeting new `clients. I may be looking for inspiration, that can be never ending really but I love that.
Q2: Can you tell us a little bit about your development as a photographer? What are the comparisons between your first and last project? My first ever project was with a college from school model, it was the very first shoot I did. I was 12 years old.
Q3: From where do you get your inspiration and how much of it is influenced by your background or environment? Very simple, on one particular occasion when I was shooting we had as an inspiration a big flower and a crazy picture of a horse hanging in the air and I combined the two. You can build a story around anything that inspires you. Visiting cities like London, Paris, Milan these places push you forward to grow as a photographer.
Q4: Has there ever been a time when your work has negatively criticized? How much do you let negative feedback influence you? One day you feel like a superstar, next day you don’t. As a young photographer you get a lot of critical response Fashion photography is like sport; you have to stay on top of your game. I think every creative person has to stay on top of his or her game. You will meet people with large ego’s everywhere; you should never let your ego get the best of you. You meet different kind of characters, some more famous people some get too egotistical. A bit of ego is necessary to bring the vision you to life, but I generally prefer to work without it. 4
Cover Image: Photographer / KRISTIAN SCHULLER Stylist / PEGGY SCHULLER Hair / FELIX FISCHER for factorydowntown.com Make Up / STEVEN CANAVAN @ Jed Root Model / ROMANA UMRIANOVA @ MunichModels
Photographer / KRISTIAN SCHULLER Stylist / PEGGY SCHULLER
Photographer / KRISTIAN SCHULLER Stylist / PEGGY SCHULLER
Q5: A lot of your images convey a particular dreamy feeling. How would you define your style? Day to day life is my source of inspiration. It might be because I was born in grey communist and when I came to the western world I was fasinated by all this colors and lights I love life, it has a certain beauty, and you can be inspired by it everywhere you look.
Q6: What equipment do you consider absolutely essential to your work? My Camera, it’s was a big change from film to digital, since we have digital camera things has been constantly changing. But any how the camera is our major tool!
Q7: You have been creating images for various purposes from advertising to editorials: how do you differentiate certain images from others depending on their purpose? When I was working on my book 90DAYS ONE DREAM I could do what I wanted with no limitation, no rules, just my direction and vision. It was shot in Los Angeles when I was working with Heidi Klum on her TV show. An editorial however, must be fashion focused. A client may find my style of photography appealing and wish to adopt that particular style for a product. For me preparation is important. I normally spend at least a week preparing for one shoot. Once for a Christmas campaign, there were roughly fifty people on set, for that, I spent between four and eight weeks preparing.
Q8: If you could create something completely unique, what would it be? Sometimes it’s better to have limitations; it pushes you to be more creative. Without limitations you could shoot Lady Gaga on the moon I create my own fantasy, images, and ideas. I think without limitation I would be overwhelmed.
Q9: Tell us about the movies you’ve been doing: do you perceive video as a new and more powerful medium? Do you think it will eventually replace still photography? Moving images have strong influence everything is animated but the classic photographer would still be around for a while in my opinion.
Q10: What future career goals have you set for yourself? Where do you see yourself in a ten years time? I see myself on a beautiful island relaxing having a drink. No - honestly my goal is to just keep constantly improving my skills, and staying on top of my game. The last ten years have been good so hopefully I’m still around 10 years or more from now.
Q11: Artistically, is there anything you haven’t yet done, that you would like to experience? Maybe a particular place you would like to use as a location, that you have not yet been? The list is endless the world is wonderful, so many amazing people and things. So artists, musicians, actress or just crazy characters
Q12: What do you consider the most interesting project you have been involved in to date? The Penelope Cruz project was big and very creative - my book was also very big let´s see what’s happening next year..!
Any advice? Never give up, find your own style of photography and keep your eyes open. It’s not about having one amazing shoot, being a professional photographer means you can repeatedly deliver. Fashion Photography is a wonderful job life never gets boring.
Photographer / KRISTIAN SCHULLER Stylist / PEGGY SCHULLER
Photographer / KRISTIAN SCHULLER Stylist / PEGGY SCHULLER
Caleb & Gladys Photographers / CALEB & GLADYS Caleb and Gladys, widely known for their keen eyes of capturing the ëessence of momentí set them apart from other local photographers. Veterens in the field from their days as freelancers, the pair are professional fashion photographers sought after even outside of their borderlands. Individually skilled in the works behind the lens, the pair have earned praise worthy of a bestowed recognition within the regionís Fashion industry. Previously solo photographers, the marrying of art between the two meant the assimilation of an array of alluring works laced in outworldly inspirations. They shy not to experiences beyond their boundaries, daring even to venture to work requests from countries within Europe and Central Asia.
Advan Matthew Advan Matthew born in Indonesia in 1988. Grew up with music especially piano, he spent his life on jazz band, show choir, band, and symphonic orchestra. He grew up in Indonesia, then went to high school in States, he came back to Indonesia then pursued higher degree in business in Australia where he started photography in late 2009. Started shooting model’s polaroid he has since then been working for countless editorials, covers, campaigns, and advertisings. Now he is represented worldwide with main base in India, Middle East, and Asia. He’s looking forward to expand to Europe and America soon. His main subject is women. He loves the raw portraits, classic paintings and music scores. He’s influenced mainly by Steven Meisel and Sarah Moon. He has done 2 exhibitions in Jakarta, Indonesia and 1 in Perth, Australia.
Glorious Bastards Photographer / Darren Black London-based fashion photographer www.darrenblackphotography.com
THE TIMELESS WORLD OF Olga Valeska INTERVIEW By Carlotta Buosi Q1: You are a very eclectic artist, how do you manage to combine all your skills in one product? Since I was little, I’ve been practicing a lot of different art forms: painting, drawing, sculpture writing. But the world I’m trying to express is always the same, as eclectic as it is itself. That is why everything always assembles very naturally, without effort. I must say that photography helps me a lot too. Indeed, as part of my artistic activity as a photographer I do everything, hair and make-up, painting and drawing, creating costumes, sets, sculptures; but I also play roles, since I am my own model. With my approach to staging and self-portrait photography really is a total art for me.
Q1: What is your artistic background? As I said, I’ve always bathed in a particular universe and i have always tried to express myself through art. As a child I had problems with autism and am sometimes a bit secretive and solitary. My world was my refuge, and art was the form I used to create it. Although, I am at present particularly interested in using the medium of photography, I have never had dreams of becoming a photographer. In fact until two years ago I had never even handled a camera! I have lived in a fairly traditional environment, without cars, TV, computer or phones. I was very connected with nature and with my dreams, but at one point I wanted to make my dreams more concrete. As photography is an art that reflects reality, transcribing a dream with pictures somehow makes it real. People can say, “This really existed” The link between dreams and reality then becomes more tenuous and that is the whole point for me. But again the photograph is not the biggest thing; I still consider it a “creative image “ no matter the medium used to produce it.
Q3: Your images are entirely created by yourself, is there a phase of the creative process you prefer? It depends on the day, and my mood is very changeable! When I feel like being quiet I create costumes, small objects, painting and drawings. When I feel more energy, I begin to construct large complex scenes, which often require long hours of preparation and great moves, or I start shoots that that are endless. Shooting is such a special moment for me! Making a self-portrait gives me the impression of being transported as if in a dream. Making a self-portrait, is like playing a role on stage, but with the freedom of not caring, as there are no spectators. This, in my opinion, can make you feel free and accomplished.
Q4: Does your inspiration come from a person when you create an image? Inspiration often comes from a person. For my self-portraits, inspiration doesn’t come from me as an individual: the goal is not to portray myself in the photograph, or evaluate myself. When I look at my self-portraits I do not see myself. I see moods, concepts, dreams and possibly other characters. That is what defines me, not my body. My body and face are tools that allow me to live my thoughts and inner characters. Of course, these characters look like me more or less and all reflect an aspect of what I am inside, but I try not to focus on my external look. For me is not the physique but everything that transcends it, all that is beyond.
Q5: Where do you get the inspiration for the clothing and style of photos? I do not make my costumes specifically for my photo shoots. I like to wear them regularly. I’ve always loved fashion, although I prefer to create my own way rather than follow the current trends. In any case, my inspirations are many and extremely changeable and I actually have a little trouble defining my style, which can range from classic to whimsical. I think I am strongly influenced by the traditional Slavic style, which reminds me of my childhood. I also love all that is baroque, folk, colourful, sparkling, flowery or ornate. Like a sort of visual madness, which borders with the wonderful.
Q6: Is there is an historical period you like to refer in particular? I am passionate about history and the past in general and I think it shows a lot in my work. I’m a fairly old-fashioned, attached to traditions, folklore and memories. I’ve never felt in tune with today’s society and the modern world. I often feel like they are from another century! Yet my photos do not refer to a particular time as my world is timeless, it’s an imaginary bubble.
Q7: Your images often remind me of fairy tales, is there the intention to tell a story with them? My pictures sometimes have a very narrative side but I think that achieving a story is not necessarily the goal. My images are like fragments, unexplained appearances, and brief glimpses of an entire inner world. These are not actual stories with a beginning or an end because nothing is clearly revealed in the image itself. Even if these images may have a specific meaning, I prefer them to be open to interpretation and remain ambiguous. Everything I do is so personal and reflects who I am; I sometimes have a hard time showing more. Actually I never imagined or even particularly desired for my photos to be seen by so many. Even now I try not to think about it because it scares me a little bit!
Q8: Many of your images remind me of Pre-raphaelites’ paintings of women. What do you think of this artistic movement? I love this movement, but I am not directly inspired by it especially as my influences are so diverse. This said, I am very confused and for several reasons: the search for a certain aesthetic beauty of a hand, with the use of colour and detail, a taste for the shimmering hues, natural scenery and flower. On the other hand, I look at literary references, historical, and especially Christian, and they’re fascination and love for nature, tradition, the divine, the past, myths and legends. Finally, I think that what is reflected in the characters of the Pre-Raphaelite painting in my own characters is this mystical and passionate soul, a kind of fervour and the relentless pursuit of absolute ideal and transcendence.
Q9: What has so far been the most exciting project you’ve taken part in? All were different, but all reflected something I would have loved to be. There is no one project more exciting than another. I don’t think I have ever really had proper projects as there has never been advanced planning. I have always followed my inspiration day by day and whenever I wanted to do something I did it straight away. It has always been very instinctive, almost unconscious. The desire to create, for me, needs to be irresistible. Everything must seem obvious, as natural as lightening, uncontrollable and inexplicable.
What are your plans for the future? How would you upgrade your own art?
I do not know myself! My inspiration is extremely unpredictable and Iâ€™m never sure what tomorrow holds for me. What is certain is that I am never short of ideas! I have a little frantic side and I feel like any challenge is possible. I get excited about so many things! Until now a lot has surprised and amazed me and I find life so full of resources, mystery, and amazing puzzles. I find these words of photographer Bill Brandt very accurate: â€œThis is part of the work of photographer to see more intensely than most people. He must have and keep in him something of the receptiveness of the child who looks at the world for the first time or of the traveller who enters a strange country. â€œ
Jose Luis Cunha Photographer / JosĂˆ Luis Cunha Make Up / Marine Fernandes Styling / Henry Mauricio Costa Costa & Luiza Mauricio Production / Henry Mauricio Model / Bianca Gerth (Next Models) Assistant / Julien Abade Hair / Rosa C Location / Lisbon, Portugal Facebook.com/JoseLuisCunhaPhoto
Boy Photographer / Amelia Calderon Mode / Kaylan Morgan @ RED NYC Wardrobe Stylist / Cameron Carpenter Wardrobe Assistant / Beth Kircher Makeup/Groomer / Nicole Elle Rogers Look 1 - John Varvatos jacket, sweater and pants, Emporio Armani gloves, Barneys Co-op belt Look 2 - Blanc de Chine vest, Louis Vuitton sweater, Polo Ralph Lauren shirt, John Varvatos pants, stylistâ€™s glasses
Look 5 - John Varvatos henley, Orley jacket on shoulder, T by Alexander Wang pants, Louis Vuitton boots
Look 4 - John Varvatos Henley, T by Alexander Wang scarf and pants, Giorgio Armani glasses 53
Asha Amai Photographer / Solmaz Saberi Hair / Traci Garette Makeup / Liz Castellanos Models / Brittany Brousseau & Alysse Reynolds Designer / Asha Mia Inspired by world travels, diverse cultural backgrounds and a love for luxurious fabrics, Asha Mia is an ode to traditional Somali culture that reflects a passion for African aesthetics and love for the California lifestyle. Brought to you by Canadian designer Ninah Hussein.
Kate Zambrano INTERVIEW By Carlotta Buosi A consistently wide-eyed wanderer, Kate Zambrano explores the human condition though visual stimulation. Often coupling the standard idealization of beauty with a deep, haunting melancholy. She uses monochromatic and subtle colours in her paintings to create a genuine and simplified journey into individuality. Kate works with different mediums and techniques as well as incorporating texture and drips to create an unsettling concept of what is attractive. Her work evokes emotions, ideas, and opinions from the viewer, forcing self-exploration and internal dialogue. She starts most paintings with the eyes, the fingerprint of the soul, inviting the viewer to reflect on him or herself. Q1: Kate how did your artistic adventure begin? I decided two and a half years ago to shift my career from modeling to become a full time artist. Since then, I have worked endless hours at it.
Q2: Tell us about career options you considered growing up. And if you’re naturally creative tell us who your influences were. I have had a lot random jobs. I never felt completely satisfied with any. I knew I loved creative fields, and so one day I just gave up everything else and started pursuing what I truly love:
Q3: Is your art and painting influenced by favorite artists or pop culture, where you get your inspiration and how important it is to you? Inspiration isn’t an easy thing to define. I get inspired daily in the most random of places. Fashion, movies, music, and other artists. When I am not working on a piece, I am always thinking of what I want to tackle next.
Q4: Knowing what makes you exceptional as an artist to your market is a good asset. Talk about your individuality, your originality to your art and how you stay true to your painting. I think any true artist wants to put a stamp of their own originality on their piece and their work as a whole. I guess it goes back to the inspiration question above. What might move and shake me might not do it for one of my peers. Even though there are millions of artists in the world, no two people will take the exact same thing away from every piece of art, every song, every movie. That’s the most beautiful thing, though. Individuality just happens naturally with each person’s own opinion and, therefore, marks it as their own when manifested into that person’s creation.
Q5: Talk about your inspirational goal and what you’re doing to get there and any project/show you have been involved in. A really great thing about art is that I am constantly changing my direction - be it technique, composition, material. Recently, I have been very drawn to more figurative works. Incorporating hands and limbs in interesting poses. I think the common denominator I like to have in my work is some element of discomfort. I have five gallery shows coming up before the end of 2013, so luckily I have been able to keep practicing for different audiences.
Q5: On your blog you mentioned you’re often approached to work on commissions for your clients. This is an avenue about which you were admittedly hesitant, later realizing however, and the fresh new approach each person brings to your work. Out of the thousands of artists they could have chosen they chose you. What sort of legacy would you like to leave behind and what do you want potential clients to know about your art? I didn’t think I would like doing commissions, but as it turns out, I really do. I get to speak to wonderful people from all over the world and have a glimpse into their vision, while they get to see my interpretation of their vision. I don’t really like speaking too in-depth about my paintings/drawings. I prefer a more visual connection. I don’t want to lead anyone to a conclusion. I think it should be more of a self-discovery. I just want any potential clients to trust their instincts when they look upon my work. If they like it, and it resonates with them, then I am thrilled. If not, that’s ok too.
Q6: Can you explain to us why most of your paintings start with the eyes? For me, it sets the tone of the painting. I typically like to have an atmosphere within a gaze in my work. That, unspoken connection between viewer and audience. You can tell a lot about a person’s mood by their eyes. Think of any time you’ve accidentally bumped into someone at a coffee shop, cut someone off in traffic, or opened the door for someone laden with bags. You can judge their attitude or gratitude within just that look.
Q7: Tell us about the experience of getting your first painting into a gallery; did you have a mentor or a group of people that helped you through that process? I built up a collection of work to show on my website. I did the networking thing. I met with other artists and gallery owners, and somehow it just happened. It was a struggle. But that always makes me work harder.
Q8: When you sell one of your paintings, what’s the first thing that comes to your mind? Excitement, for sure! That someone wants to hang a piece of my artwork on their walls to show other people means the world to me. I like to maintain a friendly relationship with all of my clients (if possible). I love receiving emails of the painting/illustration hanging up, framed and pretty, on the wall of someone I might never have had a chance to encounter any other way.
Q9: It is every artists dream to have a famous painting that the world recognizes them by, where do you see your brand 10-15 years from now? That’s tricky, isn’t it? Art is always evolving without and within us. Constantly changing. The only hope I have is to still have an intense love for creating. Whether I am doing portraits, figures, or even if I’ve moved on to strictly paint cows…I just want to do art.
Q10: What advice would you give to aspiring painters and artists? Don’t give up. It might seem slow going, but it’s worth it. Each moment of practice, hour of spend waiting or moment of self-doubt. Use it to fuel you.
Karen Miley LFW Photographer / KAREN MILEY LONDON FASHION WEEK
Polina Yakobson International Talent Support (ITS) awards finalist Polina YakobsonĂs collection. Photographer / Jason Healy Location / Dublin, Ireland www.jasonhealy.net
Color block Photographer / Stylist / Lynol Lui Model: Janice J. @ CoverModels Management Look 1 / Bandana: Black Scale X Alive & Well Jacket: Zara Bottoms: Heiress Swimwear Jewelry: Modelâ€™s Own
Look 2 / Bandana / Black Scale X Alive & Well Jacket / Zara Pocket Square / Holt Renfrew Jewelry / Ring by Gareth Pugh Bracelet / (Modelâ€™s Own)
Look 3 / Hat / Black Scale X Alive & Well Bandana / Black Scale X Alive & Well Pants / Orphan Age Jewelry Ring / by Gareth Pugh NicoPanda Ring / by Nicola Formichetti Bracelet and Ring / by Joomi Lim, Necklace / by Rukus Necklace / by Army of Rokosz Razor Necklace / (Stylistâ€™s Own) Watch / Diesel
Look 4 / Hat / Actual Pain Bandana / Stylistâ€™s Own Shirt / Publish Unconditional Jewelry Ring / by Gareth Pugh NicoPanda Ring / by Nicola Formichetti Ring and Bracelet / by Joomi Lim Necklace / by Rukus Necklace by Army of Rokosz Watch / Diesel
Oka Diputra INTERVIEW By Carlotta Buosi Q1: Describe a typical day in the life of Oka Diputra. A rigorous cardio exercise (dancing) and resistance training (weight lifting) right after I wake up followed by cooking my own lunch (I’m a vegetarian) and hit my studio in the afternoon. It’s the privilege of being self employed; I can go to work whenever I want. I work in my studio for 3 - 4 hours and rush to the beach for a sunset walk with my seven hounds (Dalmatians and Balinese mutts)
Q2: When did you start making clothes and when did you decide to become a fashion designer? I started when I was 14 as I was fed up of having hand-me-down clothes from my siblings. I decided that I had the knack for it when people around me started to ask if they can buy my designs.
Q3: At the beginning of your carrier you were making men’s clothes. What brought you to women’s wear and why did you stick with it afterwards? Do you ever desire to make a new male collection?
I realised quite early that women spend more on clothes than men. LOL so I force myself to learn the trade from scratch. I still continue my men’s line to compliment my women’s line.
Q4: Where do you take your main inspiration from and how would you describe your style? From Nature, especially underwater marine lives. I’m an avid scuba diver.
Q5: You are from the beautiful city of Bali in Indonesia. Do you find obstacles being so far away from the fashion capitals of the world? Do you find it challenging to respond to the needs of both your country’s audience and the rest of the fashion world’s audience? Not really because Bali is quite a major tourists destination. On the other hand, I do have limitation in finding the right fabric for my designs. I also have problems in fulfilling my overseas clients’ order as the distance creates unforeseen problems
Q6: How much does the environment you live in influence you? Is it the natural element important for your inspiration, being nature such a strong feature of Indonesia? Indeed. I live and breathe Bali’s cultural and natural elements.
Q7: You are famous for your ability to create many different sizes and fits for any kind of woman. If there a particular intent in this? What’s the message you’d like to communicate with your design? The initial intent was finding a solution to cater to travellers to Bali who have limited time for fittings. The solution has become my signature in the process. I don’t have any messages when I design; I just want to make people more attractive and interesting when wearing my designs.
Q8: How do you usually choose the fabrics and colours of your designs? Do they have a significant meaning for you and what do you think about patterns and prints? As previously mentioned, I have trouble finding the right fabrics for my designs as Bali has limited choice of fabrics. In the end I often commission materials or treat and alter existing fabric to my needs.
Q9: If you could travel anywhere, where would it be and how do you think it could inspire you if you actually went there? Tibet. As a Buddhist, I have a spiritual affinity with the country.
Q10: What are your future goals and where do you see yourself in a ten years time? I’d like to have my label being recognised more in Europe.
Q11: What are the most exciting experiences you’ve had? Meeting extraordinary people along the way!
Q12: You’ve been recently featured in one episode of America’s Next Top Model; how would you describe this experience? What did you feel when you acknowledged they wanted to feature you? It was a total surprise and a humbling experience. I felt I have finally arrived to the point when I think I must have been doing it right. LOL
Stanislav Odyagailo Location / Kyiv, Ukraine facebook.com/stan.odyagailo
Exception that proves the rule Lâ€™exception confirme larĂ‹gle Photographer / Tamara Williams MakeUp / Jenny BonBon Model / Yasmin Jamal Jamal (Modelpool) Styling & Clothes / Queermode Stuttgart / Adile Yildirim Post production / Kushtrim Morrzy Kunushevci
Languid Vagabond Photographer / Alin Kovacs Retouche Assitant / Andreea Macovei Model / Victor Sandler @ Yes Model Management Clothes / H&M
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Claudia Behnke INTERVIEW Since moving to London from her home in Germany, Claudia Behnke has carved out quite a career as a, celebrity fashion stylist, style consultant and art director. The list of people she has worked with is impressive, photographers like Squiz Hamilton, Hakan Akif, Celebi Allan Chiu and Lara Jade to name a few. Add to this her work with international publications and clients as well as the celebrities she has styled, Sophie Ellis-Bexter, Tolula Adeyemi and James Phelps (spooks). It’s not surprising that her commercial client list includes, Microsoft, Tigi, M&S and Next, or, that she regularly works as a consultant at London fashion week. Tell us about a day in the life of Claudia Behnke? The beauty of my job is that every day is different but I generally get up at 6, have breakfast and get myself ready to go to a shoot, start prepping for one or would be preparing for my assistants to do the returns. In the evenings I often have meetings or press events like launches and openings to go to.
Pablo Picasso once said “Good artists copy, great artists steal”. Can you explain to us your philosophy behind never copying ideas or draw inspiration from existing fashion? I get inspiration from anywhere and everywhere- people, different cultures, art, eclectic interiors, a specific atmosphere in a derelict little coffee shop. I prefer getting inspired in a more abstract sense so I can constantly reinvent fashion for myself. I would find it boring to copy a shoot I have seen in a magazine or to duplicate a specific look I have spotted, where is the challenge that?
Your work as a stylist and art director is already recognized and desired worldwide. What were the greatest benefits and challenges you find when you first moved to London? I didn’t actually start with styling straight away, I was preparing myself for a Psychology degree when I first moved over here. It was hard to start everything from scratch, leaving my family and friends behind in Germany. The reason I moved to London was this certain buzz and charm that London oozes, the vibrancy of cultures and opportunities, the variety of food and art that keeps me falling in love with the city over and over again.
People usually just see the final product – But behind the scenes things can go wrong and take longer than expected – How do you deal with the stress of time management or something going wrong during a big shoot? It’s all about improvisation and team work, you have lots of little dramas on shoots like shoes or jewellery that don’t fit the model, delayed couriers, locations falling through last minute.. So you have to come up with some good alternatives on the spot which is easy when you work with a great team of people that you know well and trust.
For Georgie and Anna Photography / Lara Jade Styling / Claudia Behnke Make up / Leah Mabe Hair / Craig Marsden Photography Assistent / Oscar May Styling Assistents / Nieki Chan, Gosia Januchowska, Sharaye Thomas
We acknowledge you style of work is based upon originality, what else inspires you either it be a location, a particular city you visited?
I get heavily inspired by travelling, most recently I have been to Morocco, Istanbul and Vienna, all beautiful cities full of culture with an amazing landscape and architecture. I take something away from most places I go to
You’ve worked with supermodels, celebrities photographers like Lara Jade and Squiz Hamilton and many more, that’s quite an accomplishment. If you could sum it up all the dos and don’ts what will they be? Do’s
Humbleness Stick to your word Don’t be afraid to be bold and try out new things Network network network Be polite and professional Treat people with respect Form teams of people that you work well with and trust Team work
Arrogance Diva-ish Behaviour
You have a crazy amount of great editorials shot for different magazines – What would you say is your favorite shoot you have done and why? What were your main inspirations in that shoot? I have a few favourites- a couple of shoots I did for Vision China like Salome and Black Magic and a shoot I did in Morocco which hasn’t been published yet. I like how hair, make up, photography and styling melted into one to form a story that perfectly reflected what was on our minds.
If you could style an editorial/ fashion show/ fashion video where budgets, resources or time in not an obstacle, what would it be inspired by and why? I’d have to win the lottery to be in the right frame of mind to answer that question but it would definitely be somewhere super exotic and colourful..
If you could style an editorial/ fashion show/ fashion video where budgets, resources or time in not an obstacle, what would it be inspired by and why? My first writing job came along when I was 16 doing an internship with a local Magazine. I could go to any concerts and events I wanted, interview artists and actors so I thought it was the coolest job in the world!
Can you tell us where your passion for writing about people, art or fashion events came from and your first writing job? My first writing job came along when I was 16 doing an internship with a local Magazine. I could go to any concerts and events I wanted, interview artists and actors so I thought it was the coolest job in the world!
When you get a brief from a client, how do you translate the client vision into a reality? I ask many questions to make sure I understand the brief properly and then bring my own twist to it. I usually get booked because clients like some particular work of mine so I am usually given a certain scope of creativity with every brief I get.
While working your way up you had to hold down 3 different part time jobs in a bar, a shop and as a receptionist just to make some money next to my unpaid fashion jobs. That shows how bad you really wanted to pursue your dream a stylist, what were your main drive and motivation? Your main drive comes from within, it’s hard to put your finger on it but I believe it is something about self actualisation and self expression.
As a stylist you’re constantly expected to look great all the time, can you sum up your style for our audience? I dress according to my mood nowadays, sometimes throw in a bit of rock, 80s and 90s, I like to glam it on some days and other times am a bit more bohemian. And I hold a special place in my heart for wedges, dangly earrings and over-the-knee-high boots!
Your projects are a collaborative process. Tell us what is like to always be working with new creative people- photographers, designers, make-up artists and models? I think it’s important that you click straight away when you’re planning a project with a new photographer, Make up artist or Hair Stylist because you will be working together very closely and you need to make sure you share the same vision and aesthetic.
Lastly any advice for aspiring stylists and what other projects are you currently working on? Assist, assist, assist and never burn any bridges. I am currently working on a new catwalk project but it’s all top secret at the moment..
Vision Black Magic Photographer / Squiz Hamilton Stylist / Claudia Behnke Make up / Sandra Cooke Hair / Kim Roy using Shu Uemura Nails / Sam Owens using OPI Styling assistants / Lizzie Margerison, Paola Cignoli, Hollie Gilbert Models / Victoria@models, Ben@storm
Vision Salome Photography / Woland Styling / Claudia Behnke Make up / Hila Karmand using Burberry cosmetics Hair / Ernesto Montenovo @My-Management using Bumble&Bumble Nails / Pebbles Aikens using Ciate Assistant Producer / Perrin Saylan Photography Assistant / Dan Korkelia, Marta Petrucci, Kadri Vanaselja Styling Assistants / Luisa Clarke, Myryam Concetti, Mulika Harnett Make-Up Assistant / Noella Geoghegan Hair Assistant / Daniele Boschetti Mdels / Gracie@Elite, Bryton@Storm, Dovydas@D1, Harry H@D1
PUNK DE LUXE Photography / WANDER AGUIAR PHOTOGRAPHY www.wanderaguiar.com Stylist / ANDRE SORIANO (women’s collection) www.andresoriano.com & CECILIA ARAGON (men’s collection) www.ceciliaaragon.com Hair / WILLIAN SORIANO & ROXY GARVAN Make Up / CHRISTINA McCORD Photography Assistant / ANDREY BAHIA Stylist Assistant / MANOJ SHARMA Models / TAEJUNG LEE, ZACHARY LOEB, JIMI CHESTER, LEXIE ROWLAND, TARA BARCHALK, STELLA WHITE, ERIC OCCHIPINTI & ADAM SISCO
Color Me Bad Crew Photographer / Gregory Keith Metcalf Producer / Alexis Walker Stylist / Anthony Franco Make-Up / Jenna Garagiola Men’s Grooming / Carlos Ramos Models / Dexter Masland / Ford Models Chad Buchanan / LA Models
Dexter 3 Piece Suit / Anthony Franco Shirt / Topman Belt / Shipley and Halmos Chad Suit / Anthony Franco T-Shirt / Topman
Sonja Mohlich INTERVIEW By Aaron Hurley, Assisted by Lorraine Barry. www.aaornhurley.ie What are your favourite trends this season?
Although it has been around for a long time I really like this seasons tartan, because of the jackets, scarves and trousers. I love it because of the vibrant colours. What trend would you most like to see disappear? I think the 70’s, because of ﬂared trousers, they are so unflattering. It’s too Boohoo for me, I’m not a Boohoo person. I don’t like this trend at all.
Who inspires you?
Day to day experiences because when I go out and about I always see something that inspires me, a client to approach, or a fashion show. Maybe just something I want to wear or buy. Life inspires me.
Who is your dream client living or dead?
If I were 10 years younger I would say working for Vogue but now at this stage in my life, I’m just happy with a client that will let me do my job. A client who hires me and says, ‘Sonja off you go, we want you to achieve this, create for us. ‘ You were recently a judge for the second annual Simply Be Model Boot camp, which is for curvy models. Fashion often ostracizes curvy girls; what’s your philosophy on style and size. I embrace all styles, shapes and sizes. I’ve never really worked with very skinny models – I prefer a really good size 10,12,14 or 16. Those are the more realistic sizes that reflect average women. Fashion editorials however, usually work better with smaller sized models, For Xpose or Ireland Am, I use size 12-16 models, but I think women should embrace their curves, because as long as your healthy on the inside you will be beautiful on the outside.
What are the building blocks of a complete wardrobe?
I think you have to have your basics. Good underwear is very important, then, a nice skirt, trousers, jacket, coat, boots, and handbag. Have staple pieces and then you just work around those. You can buy a more fashionable dress, because you have a good coat and jacket or you can vary your tops because you’ve got your trousers so you can be creative with your separates. Have a statement necklace, or ring and have a nice clutch. I think you need to invest with your staple pieces.
Describe your ‘I made it moment!’
My ‘I made it!’ moment was when I got a call from the producer of RTE’s Off The Rails fashion programme almost 15 years ago. I just went wow! I worried initially because I was not Irish as there weren’t many non native Irish speakers on TV back then so that was a wow moment for me.
Most interesting part of your job?
I think the creative end of the job is most interesting or meeting the client And bringing their pitch to creation, that process for me, from client idea to end result is what I enjoy most.
Any favourite clothing, jewellery, accessory designers right now? I like Victoria Beckham because she has very simple lines but really embraces the Feminine body, she knows what works for a womanly body. Also Alexander McQueen because of his quirkiness. I love statement necklaces as well. If I had loads of money, these are the two designers whose clothes I would buy.
Given your television gigs, are you angling to do more television correspondence or have your own TV show? I enjoy what I’m doing at the moment working with ‘Xposé’ and ‘Ireland Am’ it’s a happy programme and I enjoy the creative process and all the helpful tips women get. For the moment I like doing that. I don’t particularly want my own show, I’m happy to do the TV work but not too much all the time. I am hoping to launch my own accessory line in the near future.
How did you end up styling celebrities? Just word of mouth. A certain circle of people in the industry know what you do and what your capabilities are, so it just depends on the photographer who books you. I was booked to style the Coors when they were at the height of their career. I knew Louis Walsh and the Pr manager of West life, that’s how I got to style them. If you’re in a certain circle in the industry, the right people will know what you can do and they make the call and hire you.
Tell me about your background and you ended up in Fashion? I did masters in international PR Marketing when I was living in London. I moved to Ireland and started working for the Sunday independent. I was styling for their fashion pages and was invited to work on Image Magazine, U Magazine, and several other fashion magazines, so I did lots of editorials in the early day. Then the boom happened and there were a lot of fashion shows, so I became involved in those and styled, people like, Tyra Banks, Jodie Kidd, Sophie Dahl. That was momentous. After that came more commercial work, TV adds, celebrity work for magazines. I became fashion and beauty editor of RTE Guide, for four years, and it just continued. I progressed to shows like, Off The Rails; Take Me Out, (tv3), Family Fortunes, The Great Irish Bake Off, and then as stylist for The Voice Of Ireland. It worked for me because I never said no, that way it brings you in different directions and keeps the work interesting. At the moment I am happy working for Xpose and Ireland AM television.
For aspiring fashion stylists, what is the best advice you could give someone to break into the industry? Try to get in touch with a stylist and see if you can assist with his or her work I think that would be the best for aspiring fashion stylists.
LOVE IN BORDERLINE Photographer / Aytekin Yalรงin Styling / Emrecan Sandal Hair Stylist / Murat Bulut Make Up Artist / BarIS Sahin Models / Elishka & Gina (Respect Model Agency)
Photographer: Ricky Woodside www.urbanfoxltd.com facebook: Urban Fox LTD
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Published on Dec 6, 2013
Flawless magazine issue 12 Flawless Magazine is an international fashion magazine promoting aspiring and established creative artists in the...