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for people who love local food

South West | Issue 48 | April 2012

WIN!

INSIDE

An overnight stay at Macdonald Bath Spa Hotel

Your regular Greenliving edition

Fish Easy

Mitch Tonks leads us through a seafood explosion

Harveys Cellars

Bristol’s history springs back to life with a tapas twist

Walk, Shop and Eat A look around Shaftesbury and the surrounding area www.flavourmagazine.com


Editor Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com Art Director Bruce Mytton Email: design@flavourmagazine.com

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Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Helen Kembery, Account Manager Email: helen@flavourmagazine.com Photography James Walker

welcome

Contributors Siân Blunos, Martin Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Max Drake, James Underdown, Catherine Hannah, Megan Owen, Taylor Smith, Elizabeth Mytton, Jack Stein, Mitch Tonks, Cathy French Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

Welcome to April’s edition of flavour

For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com

and as I speak (write) the sun is out!

For competition entries Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com

It’s extraordinary, with every day that goes by you can almost sense this part

© Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Please recycle this product.

of the world waking up to the notion that summer is on its way; the daffs are out, bluebells are springing up and the scent of wild garlic permeates the air con system. As long as you don’t suffer

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Inside...

04 WIN! A luxury overnight break for two at Macdonald Bath Spa 10 In Season Tom Bowles brings us the best of the season’s produce 14 It’s in the Detail Glorious bespoke kitchens, furniture and joinery 46 Thornbury Castle’s kitchen secrets Head Chef Mark Veale reveals all... 49 Walk, Shop and Eat A browse around Shaftesbury and the surrounding area 72 The Finest Cuts Getting the best out of meat

seasonal affective disorder the wrong way round all should be good. And we have certainly looked to bring this seasonal change to your palate. Mitch Tonks brings us four recipes from his new book Fish Easy and heads up our seafood feature on page 21, we go doolally about al fresco dining on

page 31 and then, for the ultimate in outdoorsy-ness, we take a look at some of the fabulous festivals that are coming to the area on page 65. I for one can’t wait for the days to get longer, the sun to get cracking and my first pint of cider in a beer garden. It’s surely just round the corner, isn’t it? Fingers crossed… Well done!

Nick NICK GREGORY


If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month

Editor’s Pick Last month I was lucky enough to try out one of Supperlicious’ delicious five-day supper bags. Now I’m not normally one for preparing my meals a day in advance let alone five days, but this was genius. On a Monday afternoon, a cool box of meat, fish and fridge products arrived along with a bag of fresh vegetables, store products and condiments. What followed was a week of simple, quick, hearty and rewarding cooking that, with full instructions and guidelines, was a complete pleasure. Not only did those meals provide a complete diet, but I learned some fabulous new recipes to boot. Well worth a go, and accessibly affordable too. www.supperlicious.co.uk

WIN! AN OVERNIGHT STAY AT MACDONALD BATH SPA Nestled in over seven acres of its own perfectly landscaped gardens, the five-star Macdonald Bath Spa is a taste of luxury in the historic city of Bath. With 129 bedrooms including Butler Serviced Suites, and a state-of-the-art spa and fitness centre, plus award-winning dining, you needn’t look further if visiting Bath. Flavour has teamed up with Macdonald Bath Spa to offer one lucky reader an overnight stay for two with dinner, breakfast and use of the spa facilities at the wonderful hotel. To enter, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com and put Macdonald Bath Spa in the subject header and your FULL contact details in the body of the email. The prize must be taken within the next six months and is available Sunday through Thursday subject to availability. Good luck! www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/our-hotels/macdonald-bath-spa-hotel

COMPETITION WINNERS Congratulations go to Maggie Biggs, from Dartmouth, who wins an overnight stay for two at Bovey Castle. Christine Lindop, from Bristol, who wins a collection of James’ Chocolates Easter goodies. Bernard Simmons, who wins dinner for two at Ronnie’s. Well done!

WIN!


WINE OF THE TORQUAY FOOD & ARTS FESTIVAL

MONTH

Friday 4th and Saturday 5th May Don’t miss the biggest and the best Spring Food & Arts Festival. Located in the shopping heart of Torquay, this vibrant event combines flavours from the South West, with live entertainment in the cookery theatre, hands-on foodie fun, and an array of unique Devon arts and crafts. Food and drink producers from across the region will invite you taste, try and buy their delicious produce.

WWW.TASTEOFTHEWEST.CO.UK

FUEL YOUR 10K HOURS A new energy cereal aims to transform the breakfast experience of active people in Britain. FUEL is an energy-packed breakfast granola loaded with large clusters of toasted oats and available in two flavours – Real Fruit and Chocolate Chunks. Available now in more than 450 Tesco stores, the product encourages buyers to “FUEL Your 10k Hours”. FUEL will also be stocked in Sainsbury’s stores from June. The inspirational brand message is based on the 10,000 hours theory popularised by Dr Anders Ericsson and by author Malcolm Gladwell which maintains that by practising something for that period of time gives you the best chance of excelling in your chosen field. www.fuelyour10khours.com

I have chocolate on my mind... Easter is without doubt Chocolate lovers time and if you are fortunate enough to have children you may find your house is full of chocolate for some time afterwards, so April and May become an extended chocolate feast! Easter eggs are purchased in abundance to be eaten by children, however I am sure if you are like me you will be eating your fair share of Easter eggs. Picture this, kids tucked up and asleep in bed and the chocolate is staring at you, mmmm, but what can I drink with chocolate other than tea and coffee? Well here are a few suggestions: Late bottled vintage port is a great complement to plain dark chocolate, if you’ve never tried it don’t miss out. Another favourite of mine is Pedro Ximenez, an ideal partner to bitter chocolate. You will experience a competition between bitterness of chocolate and a sweetness of the wine in the mouth, both mouthfuls really can be savoured slowly, delicious. Other wines to try with chocolate would be Tokaji from the Royal Tokaji Company, Madeira and Recioto della Valpolicella. The choice I would plump for this month is Taylor’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005. Christmas is not the only time to drink port and you don’t need a dark night and a roaring fire to enjoy the sweet treacly kick, and who needs an excuse to eat chocolate I ask? This wine has an intense purple ruby colour with plum and cherry aromas, the palate is rich and concentrated with wonderful balance and finesse. Try it chilled too, a great finish to a meal sitting outside in the spring evenings. Widely available from Waitrose & Majestic £13-£14 Tim McLaughlin-Green, Sommelier & Wine consultant of Sommelier’s Choice All wines available from:

www.sommelierschoice.com


> flavour news

KITCHEN GARDEN TOURS

READER OFFER FISHERS RESTAURANT

Fishers Restaurant in Clifton Village has been serving responsibly sourced, sustainable fresh fish direct from the South Coast day boats or markets for the last 11 years and they have teamed up with flavour to give away five luxurious ‘Hot Shellfish Platters for two’ to our readers. The first five people to email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with Fishers’ Platter in the subject header and FULL contact details within the email will win. Good luck!

Join the renowned horticulturalist Richard Vine on a tour of the restored, historic greenhouse and the established Kitchen Garden at Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, taking in the micro salads, brassica crops, fruit trees and herbs. Taste your way through the garden produce with Richard’s passion and expertise as your guide, followed by a delicious two-course lunch. The tour begins at 11.30am and lasts around 60 minutes, followed by a two-course lunch in the contemporary and stylish Brasserie. Cost is £28 per person. Spaces are limited and must be booked in advance. 01225 742 777 www.lucknampark.co.uk Available Dates: May 24 / June 28 / July 26 / August 23

www.fishers-restaurant.com/bristol

BRISTOL’S TOP RESTAURANTS JOIN FORCES FOR EAT DRINK BRISTOL FASHION From April 25 to May 7, Bristol’s leading restaurants are uniting to bring you Eat Drink Bristol Fashion – a spectacular pop-up restaurant concept situated in the city’s famous Queen Square.

MASTERCHEF OFFERING Seagrass only opened 10 months ago, but has quickly become one of the best restaurants in St Ives. Specialising in seasonal fine dining using locally sourced products, Head Chef Lee Groves (MasterChef The Professionals 2010) creates innovative dishes to excite both the palate and the eye. Lee got to the semi-finals of MasterChef with his lime posset with caramelized pineapple and basil cream recipe. Check out the website for that delicious offering… www.seagrass-stives.com

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A collaborative project between Josh Eggleton of the Pony & Trap and Luke Hasell, Director of Tipi Events, Eat Drink Bristol Fashion will provide a city centre platform for the city’s leading chefs and restaurants to showcase their talents. A unique event, Eat Drink Bristol Fashion will host participating restaurants in a spectacular modular tipi structure. The custom-built venue will comprise a 100-seat formal dining area on one side, a relaxed Champagne & Wine Bar the other and an accompaniment of stunning art installations provided by Arcadia Festival Sculpture & Performance. www.eatdrinkbristolfashion.co.uk


LOCAL BUTCHER WINS GOLD! Jon Thorner’s has won gold at a national industry meat competition. The Pylle-based butchery business entered their Gourmet Steak Burger in EBLEX’s national competition ‘England’s Best Burger Challenge 2012’ last month. EBLEX is part of the Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board, an organisation that exists to enhance the profitability and sustainability of the English beef and lamb sector. Jon Thorner’s was awarded the top gold award for their burger, which uses prime quality West Country beef and a selection of fresh herbs. The burger will now move onto the final stage of judging, where an overall winner will be determined.

WWW.JONTHORNERS.CO.UK

TURNING JAPANESE

UPPING STICKS

Yakiniku (authentic Japanese barbecue) is an eating style in which fresh, seasoned ingredients such as meat, seafood and vegetables are placed on a mesh and grilled over a direct flame. Using this style of cooking turns your meal into a fun, interactive mealtime spent with friends and family. You decide what you want to eat and then simply grill it on state-of-the-art indoor BBQs – all the fun of a BBQ inside, with no need to worry about the weather!

Georgie Pearman, former City of London corporate lawyer at Allan & Overy, and her husband, operations manager, Sam, threw in their successful careers and up-sticked from London to restore a run-down coaching inn in the Cotswolds – from tired high street boozer to hip hotel with rooms. Georgie admits she always had a burning ambition to one day chuck in her City job and head for the hills to find and run her own pub. Her ambitions were realised on a chance finding of the dilapidated coaching inn, The Wheatsheaf, in the small Gloucestershire town of Northleach. www.cotswoldswheatsheaf.com

The Mt Fuji Restaurant at Stanton House is designed and decorated to offer a unique insight into traditional Japanese culture, offering unique cuisine and authentic Japanese food. The menu offers traditional and quality dishes courtesy of the resident Japanese chef. Japanese ‘Asahi’ beer, sake, shochu and wine are available with your meal, just to add that extra Japanese element. 0870 084 1388 www.stantonhouse.co.uk

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r Readeffer: tO Ticke r £35 5) 2 foFLAVOUR3 e (Quotalid Thur & s V ssion Fri se

— Celebrating world class cuisine —

21-24 JUNE 2012 - REGENT’S PARK Discover London’s diverse cuisine at the world’s greatest pop-up restaurant festival. Savour the best in international flavours from 40 of London’s hottest restaurants, see world class chefs live on stage and explore fine food and wine from top producers. Celebrate summer in the city with Taste of London, the gourmet event of the season. Restaurant line up: Asia de Cuba ● Aurelia ● Barbecoa ● Bar Boulud ● Benares ● Bocca di Lupo ● Cinnamon Soho ● Club Gascon ● Coq d’Argent ● The Corner Room ● Gaucho ● Gauthier Soho ● Iberica ● Kensington Place ● L’Anima ● Launceston Place ● Le Gavroche ● Massimo Restaurant & Oyster Bar ● Maze ● Meursault at L’Etranger ● Opera Tavern ● Petrus ● Pollen Street Social ● Rhodes 24 ● The Savoy Grill ● Tamarind ● Theo Randall at the InterContinental Hotel ● Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room ● Yauatcha ● plus pop-up restaurants from Action Against Hunger & many more Taste of Thailand restaurants: Blue Elephant ● Busaba Eathai ● Ora ● Patara ● Suda

For tickets, visit tastefestivals.com/london or call 0871 230 7132 Calls cost 10p per minute plus network extras. Booking and transaction fees apply. Offer applies to standard tickets purchased in advance for Thursday and Friday sessions. Saving calculated on door price.

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> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

fab foodie reads TWO GREEDY ITALIANS EAT ITALY ANTONIO CARLUCCIO AND GENNARO CONTALDO

PICK OF THE MONTH!

Quadrille, £20

Nowhere is food as much a part of everyday life as Italy – a country whose unique topography has resulted in distinct regional differences that are vibrantly alive and passionately celebrated. Following the success of Two Greedy Italians, Antonio Carluccio and Gennaro Contaldo embark on a journey to explore Italy’s distinct and varied terrains, and to find out how these have shaped the produce and, in turn, the peoples and their traditions. From snow-peaked mountains to lush plains, our two greedy Italians go in search of their homeland’s varied culinary styles. Containing over 80 mouthwatering recipes and breathtaking photography, Two Greedy Italians Eat Italy showcases the wisdom and passion of these two men for their native land, its people and produce. It is an essential book for anyone with an interest in this extraordinary country and its food.

THE CAMPER VAN COAST MARTIN DOREY

with recipes by Sarah Randell Saltyard Books, £16.99 HIT THE ROAD AND HEAD FOR THE COAST... It’s not that far. In fact, if you live in the UK, you will never be more than 70 miles from the great British seaside. And what better way to make the trip than in a camper van? Pull up at the beach, breathe in a lungful of fresh sea air and prepare to have some fun, whatever the time of year you’re going. Martin Dorey is back with more camper van cooking. With over 95 new recipes which can be cooked on two rings, using some of our freshest and finest local ingredients, THE CAMPER VAN COAST is the essential companion for anyone wanting to make the most of the great British seaside. Beautifully illustrated and entertainingly written, the book is separated into seasons, starting with spring and ending with the Camper Van Christmas lunch although you can, of course, dip in at any point!

FRIENDS AT MY TABLE ALICE HART Quadrille, £17.99

SOUP! GENEVIEVE TAYLOR Absolute Press, £12.99

Over 80 dishes for creating great meals for a variety of gatherings throughout the year. Alice Hart has perfected the art of feeding crowds, and in her new book she takes the stress out of entertaining, showing you not only how to serve people memorable meals, but also how to host all sorts of gatherings in a relaxed and convivial way. From what kitchen kit you’ll need to take to a music festival, how to multiply up the number of servings, or how to get around a shortage of cutlery or plates, the book contains all you need to know about the practical side of making large numbers of people feel comfortable and well fed. An added bonus are Alice’s fabulously whimsical ideas for how to entertain guests.

It’s easy to see why soup’s a truly global food. Most soups are quick and simple to prepare (pop everything in a pot and off you go). They’re a fantastically frugal way to use up leftovers, and no matter how bare your cupboards might be, you can usually find a few things to whizz up into a tasty soup. Soup! is a collection of 100 sensational recipes. Divided into sections that include Garden Bounty, Exhilarating, Comforting, Humble and Luxurious, Genevieve Taylor’s new book – the latest in the series that includes bestselling titles Mince! and Stew! – features recipes for every season and occasion. 9


> flavour in season

At their best

right Rocket Early spring is usually a bit of a waiting game for gardeners. Much effort is put into preparing and planting plots but only a small amount of produce is ready for picking. You are of course blessed with more delicate salads in the early stages and rocket is one of these blessings. Rocket is a peppery, fiery leaf that packs a powerful punch in any salad and adds flavour wilted into stir frys or folded into pasta. Pick deep green leaves with no sign of wilting. Homegrown leaves may be imperfect in appearance but taste like the real deal. If bought in a pack rocket will keep for a couple of days in a fridge but enjoy as quickly as possible after picking.

Wild Garlic A walk in the countryside at this time of the year will surely fill your nostrils with the wonderfully subtle aroma of wild garlic. The plants are usually found in woodland spots where they thrive in the moist conditions. Around our farm the lanes are awash with them at this time of the year. Wild garlic is usually favoured for its lush scented leaves rather than the bulb like its more conventional cousin. Look for clean, undamaged leaves with that unmistakable delicate fragrance. As they grow in the wild be sure to wash them thoroughly before eating and eat at once. Like its scent, wild garlic is much more subtle in flavour to that of a traditional garlic bulb and offers a much more delicate taste. The leaves work well in salads with other leaves and make for great soups. My favourite way of eating them is substituting the leaves for basil in a rich, green, wild garlic pesto. Vampires and girls beware!

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> flavour in season

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

now

Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: @hartleyFarm

Jersey Royals So treasured are these spring and early summer potatoes that they have their very own ‘designation of origin’ protection, something to be truly proud of, just as the locals of Parma are proud of their prized prosciutto di Parma. Early season crops are naturally smaller and more tender than potatoes you would find towards the end of the season, usually around June. They are more waxy than other varieties and do not perish as easily which makes them a firm but flavoursome addition to summer salads. Try to buy unwashed potatoes for you to scrub yourself as these are sure to have more flavour and goodness left intact. Keep them in a dark, cool spot if you wish to store them and keep them away from plastic bags, as this does not do them any favours. Like all early season salads they are best eaten fresh from the ground. The simple addition of mint, coarse sea salt and a bit of butter is all they need!

Spring Onions Spring onions, scallions or salad onions are simply young white onion plants picked early before they develop into bigger bulbs. They are in season from early spring through the summer when the weather is milder. The smaller and thinner plants are usually the youngest and most tender so try and pick these although as most are fairly small there isn’t a huge amount of difference.

recipes. I love using them in a mustardy potato salad or when feeling the cold in a spicy Asian noodle broth. When preparing there shouldn’t be too much wastage, just trim the roots off and about 1cm from the top and the rest of the stem is good to use. When left whole spring onions will keep well for a few days in the fridge.

Spring onions are used through the world and are particularly popular in eastern

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asparagus... proud to be British

Fun Asparagus Facts! • An asparagus spear can grow 10 inches in a 24-hour period. • There are less than four calories in each asparagus spear! • Asparagus was first cultivated by the Ancient Greeks 2,500 years ago, and used as a medicine! • The world’s leading exporter of asparagus is Peru. • During the season we eat an average of 4.6 million spears each day as a nation.

• The ‘proper’ way to eat asparagus is with your fingers – even the Queen would eat it this way. • The majority of British asparagus is harvested by hand. • Asparagus grows from ‘crowns’ planted in the ground. It takes each crown three years to produce harvestable asparagus, but after that the same crown will keep producing asparagus for years. An asparagus crown has an active life of around 15 years. However,

Dean Edwards’ Baked British Asparagus, Pancetta and Black Pudding Salad Baked British asparagus teamed up with the smoky flavours of pancetta and black pudding; add into the mix a perfect poached egg with a runny yolk, what more could you ask for?

Cooking time: 20 minutes Preparation time: 10 minutes Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS 100g smoked pancetta 4 pieces black pudding, sliced 1-2cm thick 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 4 medium, organic, free-range eggs Mixed salad leaves 2 bundles British asparagus Oil for frying Salt and pepper for seasoning DRESSING 1 tbsp sherry or balsamic vinegar 3 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp wholegrain mustard 1 tsp honey

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£23.8 m was spent on asparagus in 2011, proving that Brits love the spear-shaped vegetable. And as asparagus aficionados will testify, young British asparagus is among the tastiest and most nutritious in the world...

the oldest plant recorded reached a staggering 120 years! • Asparagus needs harvesting every day because if you don’t cut the spears they turn to fern and become a plant! • There is no large scale exporting of British asparagus as the domestic demand is so high it often outweighs the supply. • Asparagus is an aphrodisiac.

www.british-asparagus.co.uk

METHOD 1 In a little oil fry the smoked pancetta until golden then remove from the pan and drain on some kitchen paper. In the same oil fry the black pudding for 7-8 minutes turning once. 2 Place the asparagus on a tray, drizzle with olive oil and bake in an preheated oven to 200°C / 180°C fan for 6-8 minutes turning once. Meanwhile, in a deep pan bring some water up to a rolling boil, add the white wine vinegar and crack in the eggs. Turn

off the heat and leave to cook for 6-7 minutes for a runny yolk, remove from the water and drain any excess water on some kitchen paper. 3 Whisk up the olive oil, vinegar, mustard and honey and season with a small pinch of salt and a grind of pepper. 4 Place a small handful of salad leaves on a plate along with the asparagus and the black pudding, top with the poached egg, scatter over the pancetta then drizzle over the dressing.


Valentine Warner’s British Asparagus Cigars This is a great little snack for parties, so simple, a winning little time saver. Double or triple the recipe as they disappear quickly.

Cooking time: 20 minutes Preparation time: 15 minutes Serves: 16 sharing INGREDIENTS 2 bundles of British asparagus

3 Drain and cool the asparagus in cold water then drain again, making sure it’s thoroughly dry with a tea towel.

4 sheets of readymade filo pastry

4 Cut the asparagus ²⁄³ of the way down, either discarding the lower stem or saving it for a soup, such as pea and Asparagus and sorrel.

50g butter melted 2 handfuls of finely grated Parmesan Salt Black pepper METHOD 1 Pre-heat the oven to 190°C 2 Cook the asparagus in well salted water, cooking it for only 1–2 minutes once it has come back to the boil.

5 Take one sheet of filo pastry and brush it lightly but thoroughly all over with butter. Cut each piece into four. Place each asparagus spear along the bottom of your filo piece and roll snugly but not over tightly.

6 Picking it up with your fingers brush the outside with butter again, then scatter the grated Parmesan thoroughly over the top of each cigar. 7 Lay them down on a tray lined with greaseproof paper with the outside edge of the filo facing down on the paper, this stops them unravelling when they cook. 8 Once done grind over with a heavy bombardment of black pepper. Place in the oven for 15-18 minutes until deep golden and crispy.

Dean Edwards’ British Asparagus Tortilla A twist on a classic Spanish dish, a really speedy dish ideal for a quick family dinner.

Cooking time: 15 minutes Preparation time: 10 minutes Serves: 4 INGREDIENTS 1 bundle British asparagus 1 courgette, thinly sliced 15g unsalted butter 2 cloves garlic crushed 200g Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and diced 1 red onion, sliced 6 medium eggs, beaten and seasoned with salt and pepper

METHOD 1 Plunge the asparagus into boiling salted water, bring back to the boil then cook for 2-3 minutes, drain then plunge into ice water. 2 In a non-stick pan fry the sliced courgettes in the butter then add the garlic and cook over a medium heat for around 6-7 minutes until almost sticky. 3 Parboil the potatoes and cut into cubes, then add the potatoes and the onion to the

pan and cook until softened. 4 Place the asparagus into the pan then add the seasoned beaten eggs. When the eggs have just set around the edges, transfer to a pre heated oven set at 200°C for around 6-8 minutes. 5 When cooked turn out onto a plate. 6 Cut the tortilla into slices then serve with some dressed salad leaves. 13


Detail

Bespoke kitchens, furniture and joinery

Detail are a small joinery and cabinet making company with an independent factory based in Devon, offering meticulously manufactured and professionally installed inspired bespoke designs.

S

tarting with nothing more than a blank canvas and a strong understanding of their client’s wishes and intentions of the space or furniture in question, Detail has pedigree in matching that vision to a truly unique end product. From the traditional to the ultra-modern, the minimal to the neo-classical, Detail will take you on a design journey that creates for you the ultimate in refinement and quality. Using a selection of British suppliers and specialist manufacturers, Detail face no limitations to the array of materials, products and fittings that are available and as such source only the most suitable items for their projects. For kitchen projects, all third parties, from plumbers to plasterers, can be organised and managed for you to ease the burden and stress of change and upheaval. Whether it be a full kitchen

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transformation, stylish storage solution for a living space or practical home office, Detail will work closely with you to deliver stunning results thanks to their experienced design team. With an emphasis on quality of service, craftsmanship and provenance, Detail set out to understand your personal brief and offer a truly unique solution for it. So if you have a project in mind and require a professional design team to advise you, Detail are on hand to satisfy and ratify all your creative requirements.

Bespoke Bristol Ltd 80 Alma Road, Clifton Bristol BS8 2DJ 0117 973 5838 info@detailkitchens.co.uk www.detail-kitchens.co.uk


It’s not about the latest design fads and current style trends... a bespoke design should be about your own personal tastes and preferences and the creative journey undertaken to realise them. Mike Fowler, Designer/Showroom Manager

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Spring is in the air... ...and our talented Head Chef Mark Veale has a fabulous array of seasonal produce to add to his menus. There’s the first of the very tender forced Yorkshire rhubarb. The wonderful River Kennett crayfish are superb. The first delivery of the season’s Cornish mackerel has arrived along with the first of the Wye Valley asparagus. Spring really is the perfect time to visit Thornbury Castle – enjoy a two course lunch for just £15.00 per person from Monday to Saturday.

Telephone 01454 281182

www.thornburycastle.co.uk Thornbury Castle, Castle Street, Thornbury, Gloucestershire

Aió Sardinia

A sample of our menu

ANTIPASTI SARDINE GRIGLIATE – Grilled fresh sardines fillets, seasoned with a fresh herb Salmoriglio dressing, served with crunchy fennel and radish salad. £7.50 SPIEDINO DEL MORO – Skewer of Lamb’s Liver, Heart and Kidney seasoned with black pepper and bay leaves, grilled and served on fresh spinach leaves with yogurt, cucumber and paprika. £7 SFORMATO DI VERDURE (V) – Timbale of Sardinian fregola layered with roast peppers, courgettes and Taleggio cheese in a tomato and parmesan sauce. £6.50

LASAGNE DI PESCE – Made here with fresh salmon, smoked haddock and prawns served with a langoustine sauce. £13 MELANZANE RIPIENE (V) – Two layers of Aubergine filled with Smoked Cheese, Fresh Spinach, in a tomato & parmesan crust. Served with a rocket and tomato salad. £12 PESCE FRESCO Our fish is delivered daily from the Devon and Cornwall coasts. Our aim is to serve the freshest fish according to season and sustainability.

FRESH PASTAS & SARDINIAN FREGOLA

PLEASE CHECK THE DAILY FISH BOARD FOR TODAY’S CHOICE

FREGOLA SARDA We are proud to serve Fregola Sarda at Aió. It is a typical kind of Sardinian pasta pearls which undergoes some toasting which gives it a subtle nutty flavour then it is cooked in its own sauce to get the best flavour.

CARNI MAIALETTO ARROSTO – Roast suckling pig, served on Sundays and on pre-order (24hrs notice) Accompanied with rosemary potatoes and char grilled vegetables. Give us a ring and order it for next time! £21.50

FREGOLA ALLA BOTTARGA with Clams, Prawns, mussels, langoustine and bottarga (dried Sardinian caviar) in a light and spicy tomato sauce. £13

SPIEDINO MISTO ALLA GRIGLIA – Somerset lamb cutlet, Sardinian style sausage, and marinated free range chicken thigh, grilled on a skewer. Sardinian fregola salad garnish £15

CULURGIONES ALL’ AGNELLO – Handmade ravioli with a pecorino cheese, potato & fresh mint filling served with a slowly cooked lamb ragout. £12.50

CONIGLIO ALLA CACCIATORA – Rabbit cooked on the bone with mushrooms, Gaeta olives & cherry tomatoes.£15

01225 443900 | www.aiorestaurant.co.uk 7 Edgar Buildings | George Street | Bath | BA1 2EE


JON THORNER’S

the

BUTCHER’S

tip

Jon Thorner is the founder of Jon Thorner’s Ltd and is South West Chairman of the Q Guild of Butchers association. The awardwinning businessman has a farm shop near Shepton Mallet, five butchery counters across the South West and makes fantastic pies... Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop Pylle Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA 01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk Twitter: @JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorner’s

Nothing beats a great steak, but sometimes you need to be a butcher to know which steak is which! The price differs greatly too, driven by availability and popularity. RIB-EYE STEAKS Large and slightly rounded, cut from the eye of the fore rib. Carries a little more fat than other types of steak but are the most flavoursome and very tender. SIRLOIN STEAKS Lean, tender and boneless, with a thin layer of fat running along one edge. These are suitable for all methods of quick cooking and have a great flavour. T-BONE STEAKS Tender and flavoursome, with a bone running through it. It is actually a fillet on one side of the bone and sirloin on the other.

RUMP STEAKS Large, longer cuts of steak, with a natural seam between muscles. My personal favourite for full flavour. FILLET STEAKS The tenderloin is the entire piece of meat which runs from the rib cage to the end of the animal. This area of the cow is not weight bearing, therefore the connective tissue is not toughened by exercise, meaning tenderness is guaranteed – hence the price! Fillet steaks are cut from fully-trimmed tenderloin and are very lean, round steaks, usually cut to about 4cm thick. The centre cut of the tenderloin can be used for beef Wellington or Chateaubriand, a French dish where the meat is roasted to serve two or more people. This section is also used for smaller steaks, sometimes known as tournedos, and the tail end can be used for carpaccio or beef stroganoff. There are also two further cuts which are very much ‘in vogue’ at present – onglet (also known as hanger steak) has an unusual muscle structure and is part of the cow’s diaphragm. It is quite tender, with a very unique flavour.

RIB-EYE

SIRLOIN

Pave is the French term for a thick cut steak from the rump of the cow. Unflatteringly known as the poor man’s filet mignon, but popular nonetheless. How you have your steak cooked is of course an individual preference, but I would always advise a steak to be cooked rare to maximise the tenderness and flavour, as an overcooked steak can end up tough and dry.

RUMP

FILLET 17


Elizabeth Mytton re-discovers tapas in one of Bristol’s historic treasures...

harveys cellars I

t would be easy to miss Harveys Cellars given its tucked away location in Denmark Street, opposite the Hippodrome stage door, but that would be a mistake. From the minute I entered the doors and was led into the underground venue, I was overcome with a sense of nostalgia that caused me to sit up and take note. I didn’t know it yet, but this was to be an evening of pleasant surprises. Although housed in the converted cellar of the former John Harvey & Sons’ Wine Merchants, the venue was light, spacious and inviting. With modern furniture and styling, including a central bar, the atmosphere was warm and welcoming. Add to that the upbeat Andalusian music in the background (courtesy of the Gypsy Kings), pleasant aromas wafting from the kitchen and attentive service by the hostess and our waitress, I settled in for what I hoped would be a special evening. The barman kindly offered to make me a non-alcoholic cocktail as I declared that I was driving. I had my first strawberry daiquiri – a refreshing, zingy concoction that had my taste buds tingly and ready for the meal that lay ahead. I began to study the menu in more detail, when it dawned on me that this was the same Harveys as the one famous for Harveys Bristol Cream – my partner stared at me in disbelief, given the fact that all the waiters were sporting ‘Harveys 1796’ on their aprons. I chose to busy myself by making some selections. Tapas is the speciality of the house, and I was pleased to see familiar offerings alongside some modern re-workings of traditional

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Spanish dishes. The staff had excellent menu knowledge and were able to make helpful and genuine recommendations when asked. On a tip from the house, I perused the full and half flight sherry menu. I went for the half flight (and convinced my partner to drive home). More accustomed to wine with dinner, and being more of a seasonal sherry drinker, with the odd glass at family dos over Christmas, I was intrigued by the idea of sherry with each course, and not sure what to expect. I had an aperitif of Harveys Bristol Cream Signature Serve, which was delicious, and was followed by a glass of Harveys Fino when my first course arrived. We started with Spanish spiced roast almonds and marinated olives with boquerones (sardines) along with a selection of artisan bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The portions were huge, but we couldn’t stop eating. This was followed by the onion and red pepper tortilla and salt cod croquettes and Romeso (a delicious sauce made from crushed almonds and peppers) both forming part of my half flight menu, and served with a glass of Harveys Fine Old Amontillado. I was surprised by how well the sherry complemented my dishes, and will definitely try this again. We also shared the charcuteria selection, which comprised of jamon Serrano, cecina (smoked beef), Iberico salchichón and Iberico chorizo, Piqullio peppers stuffed with cream cheese, sautéed prawns in garlic and chilli, patatas bravas, Spanish meatballs, and deep-fried squid with homemade aioli. Following dinner (and an absolutely gorgeous sherry fruit trifle, dripping in

alcohol and served with Pedro Ximenez PX – very strong stuff!) we were given a tour of the venue, which included a view of the mini art gallery and the impressive wall of blue antique sherry bottles. We were then led past a cosy snug into the music room, which was full of evening revellers enjoying a drink while listening to an amazing Spanish singer and live pianist. This room features paintings of cellar men over the sealed entrances to the tunnels that once allowed the transfer of sherry barrels underground to the harbourside. Next to this is the Harveys museum, which includes artefacts from the original cellars dating back over 200 years, adjacent to a sympathetically styled private VIP lounge, complete with barrelstyle tables and a bar serving specialist liqueurs and spirits. This area, we were told, was available for hire, something I would urge visitors to do simply for the raw historical ambience it held. Would I recommend Harveys Cellars? I loved the place, and would definitely return. It promises a great evening for theatregoers and those looking for a laid-back evening offering the complete package of amazing drinks, food, music, and a switched-on, enthusiastic and courteous staff team. With its nostalgic setting and playful atmosphere, it beats many a city centre location for all-round style. Give it a try.

Harvey Cellars 12 Denmark Street Bristol BS1 5DQ 0117 929 4812 www.harveyscellars.co.uk


It would be easy to miss Harveys Cellars given its tucked away location in Denmark Street, opposite the Hippodrome stage door, but that would be a mistake.


fish easy MITCH TONKS

Over 100 Simple 30-minute Seafood Recipes Food glorious food–or I probably should say–seafood glorious seafood. I really can never get enough of it. We are so very lucky to live on an Island surrounded by water and one of the last really wild foods available for us to enjoy. The South Coast fisheries remain well managed and plentiful of many species, most of which you will find on our counter and on our menu at RockFish. I love being in the kitchen and I love being in the dining room too. I’m often asked what I do to relax and I’m happy to report that cooking for friends and family comes top of that list, fishing and being on a boat a pretty close second. So writing a new recipe book has been anything but a

hardship or challenge. This book is all about recipes inspired by my travels, but ones that we love to eat at home as a family and with friends. They are all nice and easy with ingredients that are regularly available – it’s designed to be a book that anyone can cook from. The greatest pleasure when writing the book is going through my notebooks where I scribble down my ideas when I’m travelling and eating out. Where I can decipher my writing I can recreate in my own way some of my most wonderful eating experiences. And I can really truthfully say the best ones are the simplest. Buy your fish on the day you are going to eat it if you can, use fresh lemons not ones that have been sitting around,

© Mitch Tonks, RockFish Grill & Seafood Market www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill

Pavilion, £19.99 Photography by Chris Terry

use freshly picked herbs if you can – these things make all the difference. I hope you enjoy trying out something new. Happy cooking


> flavour mitch tonks

It doesn’t get much simpler than this, but the right choice of seafood can ensure that it will be heavenly. If you can, cook the seafood over a fire, but a grill plate will also give you great results. I dress the fish with a little olive oil seasoned with salt and mixed with parsley. My favourite selection of fish is below, but use the best of what you can buy at the fish counter.

mixed grill of seafood SERVES 2 INGREDIENTS 1 live lobster, about 600g/1lb 5oz 1 medium squid (calamari), cleaned and prepared 1 John Dory (or tilapia), about 350g / 12oz, scaled, gutted, fins and tail trimmed and deheaded A couple of slices of monkfish, cut across the tail through the bone, leaving the bone in A few raw prawns with the shell on Olive oil Sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper

METHOD Place the lobster on a chopping board. Insert a large, sharp, heavy knife into the cross on the back of the head and cut down towards the tail, cutting it in half. Remove the stomach and the black intestinal tract (if there is one) that may run through the middle of the tail and discard. Slice the squid from top to bottom, then open it out and make diagonal cuts across it, first one way and then the other, making sure the depth of the cut is halfway through the thickness.

1–2 tbsp herb mixture for grilling A handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped to garnish Lemon wedges and your choice of dressing (see introduction) to serve

Preheat the barbecue, or the grill (broiler), to hot. (If barbecuing, ensure the flames have died down and the coals are glowing and covered with white ash before cooking.) Brush all the prepared fish and shellfish with olive oil, season and sprinkle with the grill mixture. Gently grill the squid, cut side down over the hot coals, or cut side up under the grill (the squid will curl up on itself) until golden and evenly charred on the knobbly bits – about five minutes. Gently grill the lobster, flesh side down over the hot coals, or flesh side up under the grill, for five minutes, then turn it over and cook for a further 4–5 minutes – it should be nicely scorched and grilled. Meanwhile, put the monkfish and John Dory on or under the grill and cook until nicely charred – about four minutes on each side. Grill the prawns for 4–5 minutes until pink. Place all the fish on a big platter, sprinkle with parsley and sea salt and serve with a few lemon wedges and your choice of dressing. One of my favourite meals of all time!

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> flavour mitch tonks

baked spaghetti and clams SERVES 1 Pasta cooked this way is delicious, as it really soaks up all the juices. Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas mark 7. Half-cook 75g/2½ oz spaghetti and toss with 20 clams (discard any whose shells are broken or open and fail to close when tapped sharply). 1 crumbled dried chilli (chile), 2 garlic cloves and 1 tbsp finely-chopped, fresh, flatleaf parsley. Place them on parchment and foil and seal securely. Place on a baking tray and cook for 8–10 minutes. Open the parcels and discard any clams that remain closed. Serve with a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkling of finelychopped fresh parsley. This also works well with a few skinned tomatoes and some whole roasted garlic cloves thrown in.

sardine fritters with caper mayonnaise SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS

METHOD

2 large eggs, separated

Make the batter 1 hour before cooking. Beat the egg yolks and mix with the flour and salt to taste and enough water to make a thick batter (about the consistency of double/heavy cream). Season well with black pepper.

200g/7oz/1 cup plain (all-purpose) flour Sea salt and freshlyground black pepper Vegetable oil for deep-frying 8 sardines, scaled, filleted and pinboned (tails left on) 75g/2½ oz/½ cup salted capers, drained and roughly chopped 200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup mayonnaise Lemon wedges to serve

Whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then fold into the batter. Half fill a deep-fat fryer with vegetable oil and heat to 190ºC/375ºF, or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Dry each sardine fillet well, then dip in the batter. Fry until puffed and crisp – 3–4 minutes. Add the capers to the mayonnaise and serve alongside the fritters, with lemon wedges.


> flavour mitch tonks

Dartmouth salad We have so much mackerel in the summer and I am always looking for new ways of using it. I really like the salads from Nice and, with the exception of the olives, we have all the same ingredients locally, so this is our Dartmouth salad! SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS

METHOD

4 small mackerel, gutted, heads and tails removed

Place the mackerel in a pan with water to cover, the vinegar, a pinch of salt and the bay leaf. Bring to the boil then take off the heat and leave to cool. Remove the mackerel from the water and flake the fish off the bone into chunks, making sure there are no bones. Blanch the green beans.

Splash of white wine vinegar Sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper 1 bay leaf 100g/3½ oz green beans, trimmed (I like to use fine runner beans too, but I leave them raw if they are young) 1 lettuce heart, leaves separated 3 very ripe tomatoes, quartered 2 spring onions (scallions), finely sliced 2 small raw artichokes, outer leaves, stem and choke removed and flesh sliced 4 or 5 radishes, finely sliced 6 basil leaves 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered A handful of small black olives

FOR THE DRESSING 3 tbsp good white wine vinegar 9 tbsp good olive oil 6 salted anchovy fillets, ground to a paste

To make the dressing, mix the vinegar with the oil and anchovies in a bowl and season well with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper. Line a bowl with the crisp lettuce leaves, arrange the tomatoes around the edge, then fill the centre with the beans, onions, artichokes, radishes, mackerel and basil. Scatter the eggs and olives over, then dress and toss the salad at the table when everyone is sitting down.


Fresh from the Sea... the fish deli AT ASHBURTON The Fish Deli is unique – a superb deli, but specialising in mainly fishy things. Fresh fish is sourced responsibly from local day boats and customers are encouraged to buy the daily catch of what is available and in season and gentle advice is given about buying and trying more sustainable varieties.

The Fish Deli 7 East Street Ashburton D Devon TQ13 7A 01364 654833 o.uk www.thefishdeli.c

Nick, Michele and their dedicated team also make wonderful fish dishes to take home such as fish cakes, fish pies, bouillabaisse, escabeche, zarzuela, curries and fish pates. The fish is offered whole, filleted, butterfly filleted, pin boned – whatever you want. There is a wide range of dry stores, delicious bread, classy cookware and cookbooks too. It is an amazing shop, bringing together all sorts of people from all walks of life who really enjoy and appreciate good food, with many of the dishes achieving Great Taste Awards. Nick also produces a quarterly Fish Deli newsletter to keep customers up to date on seasonal fish and any new recipe ideas, plus much more. If you would like to subscribe visit the Fish Deli website Fantastic, friendly service will greet you and nothing is too much trouble at The Fish Deli.

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With local produce, seasonality and freshness all popular buzzwords, what could fit into those categories more suitably than produce from our own oceans...

loch fyne From humble beginnings as a tiny oyster shack, Loch Fyne, one of Bristol’s premier seafood restaurants, is lodged in ‘The Old Granary’, a converted historical building overlooking the river in the quaint, cobble-stoned Old City quarter. If you have never dined at Loch Fyne before then you can look forward to some of the very best fish and shellfish, much of it from the shores and smokehouse on the West Coast of Scotland. The smoked salmon and oysters are famous around the globe where they are the choice of many of the world’s best chefs. They also have an excellent choice of white fish, all from sustainable sources.

Loch Fyne The Old Granary Buildin g 51 Queen Charlotte Str eet Harbourside Bristol BS1 4HQ 0117 9307160 www.lochfyne-restaur ant

s.com

manna FROM DEVON COOKING SCHOOL Perfectly placed on the South Devon coast near Brixham Harbour, Manna From Devon Cooking School is the perfect place to develop your fish cooking skills. Hands-on classes using a wide range of locallylanded fish and seafood will give you plenty of practice and build your confidence whether you’re a novice or an experienced cook.

Thanks for a great day, I now feel so much more confident to prepare and cook fish and seafood. See you again. EMMA

Manna from Devon Cooking School Firmount House Higher Contour Road Kingswear Devon TQ6 0DE 01803 752943 www.mannafromdevon .co

m


wing of st mawes Wing of St Mawes, The Cornish Fishmonger, has been buying and selling fresh fish and seafood from Cornwall for over 30 years. As well as supplying some of the finest hotels and restaurants in the country, you can now buy fresh, expertly and sustainably caught fresh fish and shellfish online.

THE CORNISH FISHMONGER From Falmouth Bay king scallops and Padstow lobsters, to hand-picked Cornish crab meat, and award-winning smoked salmon, Wing will deliver to your door direct from the quayside within 24 hours.

nger.co.uk

www.thecornishfishmo

Chefs supply at: co.uk www.wingofstmawes.

the fish shop

source

FRESHEST FISH IN BRISTOL

FOOD HALL AND CAFÉ

The Fish Shop, based in Gloucester Road, Bristol, has built an enviable reputation as Bristol’s premier independent fishmonger and is known by local fish aficionados for sourcing some of the freshest day-boat fish available from the fish markets of Cornwall and Devon. The Fish Shop offers two-hour evening courses for just £29 per person. Learn how to clean and fillet mackerel, sea bass and plaice, plus have a go at cleaning squid and shucking oysters. You get to take all the fish home with you and get 20 per cent off your next purchase. To book email glosroadfish@gmail.com

Source Food Hall and Café offers a great range of freshly-caught British fish. The knowledgeable fishmonger has over eight years’ experience so is well placed to offer cooking tips, advice, filleting and preparation. The skilled chefs create a menu that reflects the day’s catch so you will find fresh fish available for breakfast, lunch and on the new exciting evening menu. Please call to book a table or to place orders.

The Fish Shop 143 Gloucester Road, Bristol BS7 8BA

Source Food Hall and Café, 1-3 Exchange Avenue St. Nicholas Market, Bristol BS1 1JW

07821 699065 www.glosroadfish.co.uk

0117 9272 998 www.source-food.co.uk


fishers restaurant The ever-popular Fishers Restaurant in Clifton Village has been serving responsibly sourced sustainable fresh fish direct from the south coast day boats or markets for the last 11 years. The expertise of the fish and wine merchants, the skills and creativity of the chefs and the care and attention in the service are all at the heart of specialist independent dining – that’s Fishers; hook, line and sinker.

Fishers Restaurant eet 35 Princess Victoria Str age Vill Clifton Bristol BS8 4BX 0117 974 5779 .com www.fishers-restaurant


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Allez Al Fresco! In what we hope to be a magnificent few months of sunshine, what better way to enjoy the best of the British outdoors than with a glass of wine, great company and food that more than fits the bill at these wonderful al fresco settings‌


> flavour allez al fresco!

Bath Priory

Al fresco dining for perfect summer moments

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hen the sun shines we all want to be outside making the most of every moment of the glorious English summer – long lazy days, wonderful seasonal produce and an excuse to drink perfectly prepared Pimm’s! The Bath Priory has the most beautiful Victorian sun terrace overlooking the four acres of walled gardens, a tribute to the horticultural talents of head gardener Jane Moore. Al fresco moments make the summer. Join the Bath Priory for morning coffee lingering over the papers, light lunches

with friends and plenty of chatter, traditional afternoon tea with the finest of cakes or enjoy a summer cocktail served from the outside bar, perfect to bring the day to a close as the sun sets over the city. This has to be the best spot in Bath to celebrate summer. Must have drink: A signature mojito, the very essence of summer. Must have dish: Chef’s risotto of the day, featuring the finest summer vegetables and herbs freshly picked from the kitchen garden – the ultimate taste of summer.

The Bath Priory Priory, Weston Road, Bath BA1 2XT Call: 01225 331922 Visit: www.thebathpriory.co.uk


> flavour allez al fresco!

Whatley Manor W

hatley Manor is a stylish Cotswold manor house hotel and spa set in 12 acres of English country gardens.

The food at Whatley Manor bursts with flavour and originality. For a gastronomic experience try the award-winning restaurant ‘The Dining Room’, serving dinner Wednesday to Sunday. In ‘Le Mazot’, the informal style brasserie (serving lunch and dinner every day of the week), expect a starter of potted ham hock served with piccalilli and toasted onion bread and served with its own liver parfait,

followed by sea bream steamed and dressed with a Thai broth and mussels. For dessert enjoy blood orange trifle layered with sponge soaked in Grand Marnier. Take a stroll around the gardens after lunch if the weather is nice too. A two-course set lunch is £19. À la carte menu from £32. Wines by the glass from £5.50. Afternoon tea is served from 3pm to 5.30pm every day of the week, a series of events including Tuesday garden tours (£42 with a welcome reception and lunch), cinema screenings and live jazz on the odd Sunday feature too.

Whatley Manor Hotel and Spa Easton Grey, Malmesbury, Wiltshire SN16 0RB Call: 01666 822888 Email: reservations@whatleymanor.com Visit: www.whatleymanor.com

Montague Inn S

ituated in the Somerset countryside halfway to everywhere and in the middle of nowhere, the multi awardwinning Montague Inn is a fantastic venue for meeting up with friends and family. Enjoy the wonderful terrace with views across worked organic farmland

Montague Inn Shepton Montague Near Wincanton BA9 8JW Call: 01749 813213 Visit: www.themontagueinn.co.uk

all the way to King Alfred’s tower at Stourhead. A lower lawn allows children to play in a secure area without destroying the peace of diners, while it’s also a great way to finish a walk with the dogs as, yes, they are also welcome!


> flavour allez al fresco!

Farrells

Irish Italian Restaurant

W

ith thoughts of summer, lovers of al fresco dining can look forward to taking meals on Farrells’ pretty garden terrace. This entails a beautiful walled terrace with splendid visuals from graffiti artist Inkie. It’s a wonderful sight and a wonderful place!

The Marlborough Tavern

Lunch Menu Main course £7.50 Two courses £10.50 Three courses £13.50

T

he Marlborough Tavern boasts Bath’s ‘Best Al Fresco Venue’ (Bath Good Food Awards).

Farrells, 44 Temple Street, Keynsham, Bristol BS31 1EH

The Marlborough Tavern 35 Marlborough Buildings, Bath BA1 2LY

Call: 0117 9866330 Visit: www.farrellsrestaurant.co.uk

Call: 01225 423731 Visit: www.marlborough-tavern.com

The Old Station Inn N

estled equidistant between Bath, Bristol and Wells is The Old Station Inn and Carriage restaurant. With obvious links to the railways, it also features an old Pullman carriage as its restaurant, which has been lovingly restored to all its former glory, modelled on the iconic Royal Scotsman’s dining car and is both elegant and welcoming. Although there are two distinctly different areas, the food quality and the price are the same – more formal if you wish to dine in style à la Orient Express in the carriage, or more laid back if you’re after fun and the hustle and bustle of the pub. It really

just depends on whatever suits your mood or occasion. There is ample parking, a large beer-garden, a fivea-side football pitch and a polytunnel for growing their own produce regularly featured on the menu. Al fresco dining with a woodburning stove and barbecue is available in the warmer months and dining under the stars on the deck is a must for the romantics. Cask Marquee accredited and always featuring regular changing guest ales as well as local favourites, The Old Station Inn really is an outdoor treat for these coming months.

The Old Station Inn, Wells Road, Hallatrow, Somerset BS39 6EN Call: 01761 452228 Visit: www.theoldstationandcarriage.co.uk 34

Located close to Victoria Park, The Marlborough Tavern is open all day, every day, seven days a week. Whether it’s popping in for a drink, sharing some of the lovely platters or having lunch from the two AA Rosette menu, it’s truly a delicious destination.

and Carriage Restaurant


> flavour allez al fresco!

Macdonald Bath Spa Hotel W

ith inviting views of the fountain courtyard, The Bath Spa Hotel’s alfresco and terrace is an ideal choice for casual dining in style. The informal glazed colonnade-style eating area is bright and airy and features classical pillars, frescos on the wall and exotic plants throughout. They serve a range of traditional and modern dishes in the restaurant – all with an emphasis on natural flavours, including a new British tapas menu. The alfresco and terrace is the perfect venue for a relaxing dinner or summer cocktails.

Macdonald Bath Spa Hotel, Sydney Road, Bath BA2 6JF Call: 0844 879 9106 Visit: www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk

The Catherine Wheel T

he Catherine Wheel is a grade I listed 17th-century coaching inn with a long-standing reputation for its warm atmosphere and traditional home cooked meals. Work up an appetite by trying one of the pub’s surrounding countryside walks or alternatively, simply kick back and relax in the sunny patio garden.

The Sunday lunch menu includes some great summer salads as well as all the traditional roasts. And if you fancy making a night of it, choose from one of four comfortable en suite bedrooms followed by a superb farmhouse breakfast.

Open 12 noon-11pm everyday Food available Monday to Friday 12-2pm and 6.30pm-9pm Saturday 12-3pm and 6.30pm-9.30pm Sunday 12-3pm Booking recommended

The Catherine Wheel, The High Street, Marshfield SN14 8LR Call: 01225 892220 Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk


> flavour allez al fresco!

La Piazza S

oak up some summer rays with some al fresco dining at La Piazza. Both restaurants (Aztec West and Thornbury) have outside seating areas and gardens perfect for relaxing during sunny afternoons with friends or family, sipping refreshing cocktails or aperitivos and enjoy nibbling on light, freshly -prepered italian food.

whether it’s your birthday, anniversary, private function, business meeting, chilled out pizza night, romantic dinner for two or takeaway service‌ everyone is looked after.

Between their two branches, La Piazza can cater for any occasion,

La Piazza, No. 4 High Street, Thornbury Bristol BS35 2AQ Call: 01454 414500 La Piazza, Unit 1, Aztec Centre, Aztec West Almondsbury, Bristol BS32 4TD Call: 01454 201778 Visit: www.lapiazza-bristol.co.uk

The Smoking Dog T he large rear garden at The Smoking Dog has established itself as a very popular place to eat, drink and meet in Malmesbury. Always buzzing, this busy but friendly pub is welcoming and the lovely sun-trapped garden is a great area to unwind after a busy day, have an early evening drink before dinner or just a great place to catch up with friends over a glass of wine while picking at one of its highly regarded sharing platters. Whether it be the Italian cured meats or the vegetarian option, there is always enough to share between you all!

The Smoking Dog, 62 High Street, Malmesbury, Wiltshire SN16 9AT Call: 01666 825823 Visit: www.sabrain.com/smokingdog 36


> flavour allez al fresco!

The Inn at Freshford A

vibrant and lively country pub, The Inn at Freshford offers the best of English pubs, in a truly gorgeous environment. Set in the beautiful Limpley Stoke Valley and overlooking farmland and woodland slopes, The Inn sits comfortably on the River Frome.

Warm and welcoming in the winter, simply stunning in the summer, The Inn is situated among some of the county’s most beautiful walks. The Inn welcomes walkers of two and four-legged varieties with equal enthusiasm!

The Beatles & Beer Festival this year, from Friday August 10 to Sunday 12, features local band Sgt Peppers Lonely Dartboard Band headlining the Saturday evening!

Award-winning Box Steam Brewery beers and guest ales, excellent choice of wines and simply good food, all served with timeless hospitality and charm, makes The Inn a must on your list to visit.

The Inn at Freshford, The Hill, Freshford, Bath BA2 7WG Call: 01225 722250 Visit: www.theinnatfreshford.co.uk

The Royal Crescent Hotel T he Royal Crescent Hotel is the most impressively located luxury hotel in the World Heritage City of Bath, occupying the two central buildings of the world’s finest crescent. The Grade I listed buildings were designed by the famous Georgian architect, John Wood the Younger, and were first occupied in 1775. Beyond its magnificent façade lies a hotel renowned for its charm, elegance and superb service, and, the unexpected beauty of the beautiful oneacre, landscaped garden leading to the skillfully

converted coach houses, which now accommodate the award-winning Dower House restaurant and Bath House spa. The Dower House overlooks the leafy and secluded gardens and is one of Bath’s bestkept secrets. In the summer months, the sunny terrace and manicured lawns make the perfect setting for idyllic al fresco dining. In fact, there is nowhere else in Bath more pleasurable for morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea or a quiet drink in the evening than the hotel’s stunning gardens.

The Royal Crescent Hotel, 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS Call: 01225 823333 Visit: www.royalcrescent.co.uk


> flavour allez al fresco!

The Cork T

he Cork offers Bath a uniquelystyled venue with a classic pub on one floor, contemporary bar on the other and with a great heated outside terrace. Relax or party on with a huge selection of local real ales, lagers, ciders, wines and Champagnes, not to mention a new list of great cocktails and shooters.

option of buffets to suit all your needs for booking larger groups. For those enjoying the al fresco environment, The Cork has a fantastic selection of tapas-style small and sharing dishes. Teas and coffees, free Wi-Fi, late night DJs on Saturdays and Sundays and a fun pub quiz, The Cork is the perfect venue all year round!

Mainly serving home-cooked British cuisine with an à la carte menu and daily specials, there’s also the

The Cork, 11-12 Westgate Buildings, Bath, Avon BA1 1EB Call: 01225 333582 Visit: www.thecork.co.uk


> flavour allez al fresco!

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa S

tylish and contemporary, The Brasserie restaurant at Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, with its pretty terrace overlooking the walled gardens and Dovecote, is simply perfect for al fresco dining this Spring! The open kitchen and woodburning oven provide a sense of theatre as Executive Chef Hywel Jones prepares varied and creative dishes from the extensive and interesting menus. Hywel

is passionate about using the finest locally sourced ingredients, to ensure the fullest and cleanest flavours... The Brasserie is open for all-day dining, seven days a week, with a two-course set lunch menu from £19 and three course set-lunch from £21, along with an à la carte menu available for lunch and dinner. There is also a healthy option menu available.

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne, Chippenham SN14 8AZ Call: 01225 742777 Visit: www.lucknampark.co.uk

The Fox at Broughton Gifford W

ith the warmer weather now on the horizon, and after a very balmy March, thoughts turn to al fresco dining, and there is nowhere better to enjoy some fabulous food outside than at The Fox at Broughton Gifford. The Fox is widely regarded as one of the county’s premier dining pubs, included in The Good Pub Guide, The Michelin Guide and Alistair Sawday’s Pubs and Inns.

produce, including rearing British Lop pigs, chickens and ducks, younger members of the family will love it. You are even able to wander around the small holding which is situated behind their beer garden. The Fox really go that extra mile in searching for quality ingredients, and the quality of their daily changing menus reflect the commitment the young team have to keeping to their high standards.

Sourcing locally and also growing an extensive amount of their own

The Fox, The Street, Broughton Gifford, Melksham, SN12 8PN Call: 01225 782949 Visit: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk


> flavour allez al fresco!

The Wheatsheaf Combe Hay T

he Stunning Wheatsheaf never disappoints whatever the weather. Cosy up by the fire or enjoy the luscious terraced garden and relax and revere in the mouthwatering menu selection – recently awarded 9/10 by The Daily Telegraph’s Matthew Norman.

The Wheatsheaf now offers two courses for £14 (Tuesday to Friday lunch and early dinner) and will be open every bank holiday Monday lunchtime – it just gets better and better!

Whether it’s a pint and a sandwich or something from Britain’s Best Dish South West Region Winner and Gordon Ramsay protege, Head Chef Eddy Rains’ delicious menu at The Wheatsheaf never fails to deliver.

The Wheatsheaf, Combe Hay BA2 7EG Call: 01225 833504 Visit: www.wheatsheafcombehay.co.uk


Mille Feuille INGREDIENTS 250g of plain flour Pinch of salt 125g of lard and butter (62.5g of both) 150ml of cold water Teaspoon of lemon juice Sugar Pot of raspberries, strawberry or blueberries 150ml of double cream METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 180˚C and grease a baking tray. Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl and add the large clumps of butter and lard. Rub the fat into the flour until the lumps are the size of half a walnut. 2 Make a well and pour 2⁄ 3 of the water and add in the lemon juice. Mix in until you have a firm dough. Extra water may be needed. Leave the pastry in the fridge for 20mins.

the

teen chef James Underdown – flavour’s 15-year-old budding chef – has been back in the kitchen this month to serve up another one of his mouthwatering treats.

Well, hasn’t spring come around quickly? Only last month I said my bread and butter pudding was ‘very heartwarming on a cold winter’s night’. The main thing that has happened to me concerning food is my catering coursework. I finally have a date for it, 18th of April. Now, cooking (well baking) four dishes in two hours seems like a pretty hefty task. However, I had my own little practice at home last week and, I did it! Only one small problem, at school we only have one oven while I used two. So, looks like I’m going to have to do it all over again – fun! On to this month’s recipe then: It’s called mille feuille and it’s a tower of puff pastry, cream and summer fruits. This is a great dish for a spring afternoon when you are sitting outside with a cup of tea and soaking up the warmish April sun. It’s relatively simple to make and if you want you could buy pastry instead of making it (how dare you). If I’m thinking from my catering teacher’s perspective it has two very highly-skilled methods; pastry making and piping.

3 Take the pastry out and roll into a rectangle. Fold 1⁄ 3 over and do the same to the other side so you have three layers. Roll out again and repeat. The more you do this the more your pastry will puff up. Place back into the fridge and leave for another 20 minutes. 4 Once the time is up, take it out and roll out again so it’s 5mm thick. Use a rectangular pastry cutter so all the layers are the small size; place on the baking tray. Do this as many time as you want but make sure you have a multiple of three. Sprinkle the sugar onto and bake until the pastry is golden brown. 5 While those are baking whisk up the cream and add half of the fruit to the cream. Whisk again until the cream is coloured and tastes good. 6 Take the pastry out of the oven and choose the best ones to be the tops. Separate them in to the groups with three in each. Put the cream in a piping bag and pipe around the border of the pastry; place some of the leftover fruit in the middle and layer. Repeat this once more and place the third layer on top. You should now have a tower of three bits of pastry and two layers of fruity cream! 41


...a memorable experience at Britain’s premier Indian Restaurant

Connoisseurs choice for over three decades Open Daily

4 Argyle Street, Bath, BA2 4BA Tel: 01225 466833 or 464758 www.rajpoot.com


Demuths Wild garlic is the most exciting crop of the year, it’s the first thing to rear its head after winter and is only available for a few fleeting weeks before it flowers and is gone again. Just make sure you don’t pick it from roadsides or paths where it can become contaminated. Making pesto from it is a great way to make it last a little longer and what tastes better than garlic and potato? This makes a great, quick lunch.

Onion, Cheddar Thyme Tart Wild Garlicandand Potato Gnocchi GNOCCHI

METHOD

INGREDIENTS 600g King Edward potatoes

1 Peel and steam the potatoes until tender. Mash until very smooth and then measure 500g of mash. Stir in the egg and then add the flour. Knead to make a dough, adding a little more flour if needed. Roll into 1.5cm thick sausages and cut into lumps, toss in flour.

180g plain flour

H

ead chef Richard Buckley of Demuths has a passion for bringing vegetables to the centre of the plate: “I believe that local, seasonal produce should be at the heart of all our food, nothing is more satisfying than taking a beautiful vegetable straight from the field, treating it with respect and serving it to people you care about.” Demuths Restaurant in Bath has been one of the country’s top vegetarian restaurants for over 20 years and continues to redefine what it means to cook and eat vegetables in our times. They strive to make healthier, tastier, more creative food using the world-class produce grown in the fields around Bath.

2 medium eggs Salt and pepper

2 Bring a pan of water to the boil and drop your gnocchi in. When they float to the surface remove from the pan and drop into cold water. They will store in the fridge for a few days like this.

PESTO

METHOD

INGREDIENTS 400g wild garlic

1 Toast the pine nuts until golden and leave to cool. Put the oil, nuts, seeds, vinegar and wild garlic into a food processor and process until a coarse texture is achieved. Stir in the cheese and season with salt and cayenne. Adjust the vinegar to taste

400g pine nuts 400g rapeseed oil 100g Old Winchester Cheddar (or Parmesan), finely grated 2 garlic cloves

2 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX 01225 446059 www.demuths.co.uk

1 tbsp cider vinegar

2 Pour into a sterilised jar and store in the fridge. TO SERVE 1 Heat a little butter in a frying pan and add your gnocchi. Fry gently until golden brown and then place in a bowl. Add a generous amount of pesto and stir to combine. Serve hot.

Salt and cayenne 43


Restaurant at

The Grange flavour correspondent Catherine Hannah was delighted to find a gem so close to home...

T

hese days everybody claims to be a “foodie” or describes themselves as being “passionate about food”, but I’m not sure I’ve ever met anyone with quite such infectious enthusiasm about all things gastronomic as The Grange owner Jane Averill. Her drive and passion have transformed The Grange at Whatley from humble beginnings to her own little culinary empire; a thriving cookery school with an outstanding international reputation and a restaurant to rival the best of them, and much more besides. Despite its reputation for excellence and it being only a couple of miles from my hometown of Frome, The Grange has slipped under the radar for me. However, it seems I’m the only one not in on the secret as they were full on the Saturday evening we visited and the following lunchtime too. The welcome was warm and the atmosphere in the restaurant buzzing with the sound of people enjoying themselves, the hum of happy conversation and the clatter of a busy, open kitchen. The décor is a simple mix of white and wood, a bright and jovial space to enjoy a sociable evening. The relaxed and convivial atmosphere sums up what The Grange is all about; simply enjoying good food, good wine and good company at ease. The snobbishness or pretension that can often accompany good food is definitely absent here. You will not find an unnecessary French translation on the menu nor a list of complicated adjectives and ingredients designed to make you look a fool as you try to pronounce them. They let the food do the talking and keep it simple, or as Jane put it, “let the food be the vehicle to a great evening.” Neither will you find the sort of stuffy staff here whose job, it seems, is simply to make you feel

44

inferior. All the staff we encountered made us feel extremely welcome and were warm, knowledgeable and efficient in every way – without making a complicated ritual of every course. A lot of Jane’s food influences come from her love of Sydney food – the way the clash and mix of cultures East and West combined with an abundance of great produce resulting in an eclectic blend of cuisines. The menu is definitely a reflection of this philosophy, with a fusion of Asian, Italian and Greek-influenced dishes alongside French and British classics – what Jane would describe as ‘Grange food’ – everything made lovingly from scratch on the premises with a focus on good ingredients. The produce is all local and seasonal or even grown on site. The choice of starters was refreshingly different and after several minutes of deliberating I eventually opted for the Asian chicken salad with cashews and banana leaf. I loved the sweet zestiness of the lime reduction and the crunch of the vegetables. It was fresh, light and colourful, prettily presented and extremely moreish. My partner described his lemon risotto as ‘divine’ (not a word I had heard him use before, I have to say!), fragrant but perfectly balanced, the delicate lemon complementing the sweetness of the crab perched daintily on top. Our main courses were equally impressive. My partner couldn’t resist one of their log-fired pizzas, which was everything I have been tirelessly attempting in vain to make myself at home; light, crisp dough, bubbled and gently charred by the log-fired oven and generously covered with tomatoes, Parma ham, mozzarella and rocket – simple, uncomplicated and delicious.

Likewise, I couldn’t fault my sirloin steak. It was expertly cooked to order and the chips were to die for; huge handcut wedges of deliciously fluffy potato stacked high on the plate. A lot of love and skill went into our plates of food and we washed them down greedily with a lovely bottle of Spanish Albariño. The restaurant at The Grange ticks so many boxes in terms of food and atmosphere and, given the quality of the food we sampled during our evening and our enjoyment of the meal, it was surprisingly inexpensive. Prices here are similar to what you would find in most pubs, but for something which feels much more special and is produced with such passion and understanding of food. The wine list, although extensive and varied, was also very reasonable; not many other restaurants of this standard could boast a bottle of house wine for £12.50 these days. The popular lunch menu in particular is easy on the purse strings and definitely not just for special occasions – be sure to book at weekends, particularly when the sun is out as the lovely gardens make this the perfect place for a lazy afternoon’s feed. I left The Grange contented and full, happy to have found a little gem of a place so close to home. Now I have stumbled upon this beauty, there’s no doubt I’ll be back to sample a little bit more of its magic.

The Grange Whatley Frome Somerset BA11 3JU 01373 836579 www.cookeryatthegrange.co.uk


The welcome was warm and the atmosphere in the restaurant buzzing with the sound of people enjoying themselves...


> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Mark Veale Age: 32 Originally from: Yatton, Bristol Head Chef: Thornbury Castle

I haven’t always wanted to work with food – originally I dreamed of becoming a rock star, I even joined a band! But I knew that dream was never going to happen and after working in some local pubs and a restaurant, food became part of my life. After moving to London to work in Gordon Ramsay’s Boxwood Café I was blown away; the energy in that kitchen was fantastic and Stuart Gillies, Ramsay’s head chef, was inspirational to learn from. I couldn’t help but fall in love with cooking right there. And now the ability to be creative with fresh produce and the positive customer feedback that we get about our food really makes all the hard work worthwhile At Thornbury Castle, we cook to match the settings that we work in. The history and atmosphere is sensational and I still find myself taking a step back when I take in the surroundings, it truly is a special place to work. Being a castle, I believe that our visitors should be treated like royalty and we like to cook food that reflects that classic English style with some modern twists. Our sticky toffee pudding dates back to Kenneth Ball who owned the property back in the ’60s and held a Michelin star – definitely a dish to try!

Thornbury Castle and Tudor Gardens Castle Street Thornbury South Gloucestershire BS35 1HH 01454 281182 www.thornburycastle.co.uk

I find wine knowledge fascinating and the restaurant manager has a stunning wine cellar, which holds over 300 different types, and we currently have our very own vineyard on site, which produces the house white wine. We don’t force the issue however, and the matching of foods to a particular wine or champagne depends on the diner. To some it doesn’t bother them but to others it adds to the event of dining out.

challenging and analysing what we do we make sure it still works so that we deliver the highest quality to our customers. My sous chef recently said to me that my best qualities are my enthusiasm and passion for the foods I work with which put a smile on my face (although he did say I could listen to people a bit better!). At the moment we are enjoying a very good season. I’m particularly enjoying foraging for produce, especially English asparagus and wild garlic which I use in dishes at the Castle. Plus it’s great fun with my two-year-old son. We’ve also recently begun to use Richard Vaughan meat from Huntsham Farm; their middle white pork is simply outstanding. The perfect meal to have cooked for me would be split between three of my favourite chefs. For a starter, I’d love Tom Aiken to prepare a dish of his choice; his food is amazing. I’d then choose Shane Osborn, who worked for Pied à Terre, to prepare his roasted saddle of rabbit and then I would finish by having a nice chocolate dessert, which I had a few years back at Per Se in New York, cooked by Thomas Keller. Sounds like a perfect night to me! Food will always develop and evolve over time. It’s exciting to be part of an industry that is constantly changing and growing – you never know what the latest food trend is round the corner and that’s the fascinating part. And my advice to aspiring chefs: Keep going and keep learning because everything you learn on your journey will help you, but most of all, enjoy the whole experience.

As a chef, you have to be your best and worst critic. I’m always asking myself; is this the best it can be? Or how can that dish be improved? By constantly 47


THE GREAT OUTDOORS I

am going to stay with the theme of the great outdoors this month. It seems every year we get a heatwave earlier and earlier and I was delighted to celebrate my birthday on March 11th for the first time ever sat in my garden in a deckchair. Heaven! No excuses for sitting at home watching the television then. This month let’s concentrate on finding a venue with the best outdoor space going. Now there’s a

challenge! I do think we’re rather lucky being in the South West of the country for this purpose with the beautiful countryside and coastline available to us. I would be here all day if I tried to list all the places I love to visit in the sunshine so I’ve just picked two venues with some very impressive views – and most importantly of course, a great glass of wine on offer to pass the time.

Cowley Manor in Cheltenham All I really want to say about Cowley Manor is ‘amazing grounds’ because that’s exactly the reason I’m talking about them today. The Cotswolds is naturally a region where you find beautiful rural venues, but I challenge you to find anywhere that surpasses this one. With 55 acres, it’s the perfect location to pop open a bottle of fizz, and what better option than a delicious, and uber-trendy Prosecco. Rocco Prosecco Brut is a beautifully creamy fizz with delicate citrus and a refreshing, dry finish. With all the sunshine we’ve been afforded in the last few weeks, there’s never been a better spring for enjoying Prosecco. www.cowleymanor.com

Reading Lake Hotel I’ve chosen this venue again due to its location, unsurprisingly on the water’s edge of a 33-acre lake. It works. A glass of Riverstone Ridge Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is pretty good most days, but with this backdrop it really brings a smile to your face. Herbaceous and gooseberry aromas – so classic to the Marlborough region – define this excellent wine. Don’t sit inside, don’t choose the house wine, don’t stay at home. If this sunshine is going to spoil us any longer, we should all be sitting on a waterfront lapping it up and this is as good as it gets! Cheers folks. www.readinglakehotel.com

Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School. 49


Flav_48_SW_Adverts.indd 9

11/04/2012 12:45


walk, shop & eat around...

Shaftesbury and the surrounding area

Steeped in history and tradition, Shaftesbury offers visitors breathtaking views and the warmest of welcomes. The ‘Shaston’ of Thomas Hardy’s novels, Shaftesbury is one of the oldest and highest towns in England and dominates what Hardy called the ‘engirdled and secluded’ Blackmore Vale. The beauty of the surrounding Dorset countryside is complemented by the collection of fine historical buildings that make up the centre of Shaftesbury itself. Gold Hill, made famous by the Hovis bread advertisement, with its steep cobbles and picturesque cottages is the epitome of rural charm from a previous time. More than anything though, Shaftesbury has a wealth of pubs, restaurants, tea rooms, hotels and independent shops that carry appeal to all and sundry.


> flavour shaftesbury

The Fontmell With a river running next to the restaurant and bright colours splashed on the walls, this once tired pub and has recently undergone a transformation into a shabby-chic hideaway has a serenity that gives it a fairytale quality. It’s currently catching the hearts and minds of the local crowd and many a weary traveller. At the helm and also chef patron,Tom Shaw delivers food that is really something else.The menu ranges from infusions of Europe and the Orient to the best Sunday roast around – The Fontmell is surely not one to miss.

The Fontmell, Fontmell Magna, Shaftesbury SP7 0PA Call: 01747 811441 Visit: www.thefontmell.com

La Fleur de Lys La Fleur de Lys is a family-run, personal, friendly restaurant with rooms established over 20 years ago in the beautiful hilltop town of Shaftesbury and located on the famous Gold ‘Hovis’ Hill. La Fleur de Lys prides itself on serving some of the finest cuisine around, using the best locally-sourced ingredients to be found and served by friendly, efficient staff in the relaxing, candlelit restaurant.

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During the Shaftesbury Festival (Saturday May 5), La Fleur de Lys is offering a specially prepared menu featuring the best local produce available on the day. This will be available for lunch and dinner – two courses cost £22 and three courses cost £27 per person.

Updown Cottage Furnished with a seamless blend of vintage finds and contemporary design and comfort, the five-star Updown Cottage perches on Gold Hill looking across the stunning views of Blackmore Vale. This TARDIS-like home sleeps six in four bedrooms, with three bathrooms and houses a baby grand piano and cooking and dining facilities for 12. Each stay includes a breakfast hamper, Bramley toiletries, bathrobes, White Company linen,Wi-Fi and total relaxation just a minute’s walk from wonderful independent cafés, restaurants and shops.

La Fleur de Lys Bleke Street, Shaftesbury SP7 8AW

Updown Cottage 12 Gold Hill, Shaftesbury SP7 8HB

Call: 01747 853717 Visit: www.lafleurdelys.co.uk

Call: 07710 307202 Visit: www.updowncottage.co.uk


> flavour shaftesbury

Beatons Tearooms Beatons is a unique new concept combining an elegant tea room and quirky bookshop in the heart of Tisbury, a vibrant village between Shaftesbury and Salisbury and, as well as Beatons (located in the very centre), there is a good selection of local shops and some great walks. Inspired by the art and photography of Cecil Beaton, it combines a sumptuous and comfortable space, a unique

selection of books, teas, coffee, light lunches and of course a range of homemade cakes and scones in the finest tradition of afternoon tea! Whether you are looking to relax and unwind over a perfect cup of tea, browse the specially selected range of books, meet with friends or treat yourself to a traditional afternoon tea, Beatons is the perfect choice.

Shaftesbury Wines Shaftesbury Wines is an independent treasure-trove of real wines from small producers.You will also find a carefully selected range of malt whisky, brandy, grappa, port, hand-rolled cigars and local beer and cider. You won’t find industrially mass-produced supermarket brands, instead you’ll find expert, friendly guidance in a non-intimidating environment where you can discover something new and delicious.

Beatons Tearooms The Square,Tisbury,Wiltshire SP3 6JP

Shaftesbury Wines 57 High Street, Shaftesbury SP7 8JE

Call: 01747 871819 Visit: www.beatonstearooms.co.uk

Call: 01747 850059 Visit: www.shaftesburywines.co.uk

Turnbulls

Turnbulls 9 High Street,Town Centre, Shaftesbury SP7 8HZ

Some of the best cheeses in the world! Turnbulls is the finest cheesemonger, coffee house and bistro in the Blackmore Vale, situated in the High Street of the iron age hilltop town of Shaftesbury, specialising in cheeses, local produce and homemade food. There is one rule at Turnbulls – they want visitors to the shop to leave with a smile.The atmosphere is friendly, light and open, and the team knowledgeable and jolly.They are widely popular in the local community, and a must

Call: 01747 858575 Visit: www.turnbulls-deli.co.uk

for visitors to this lovely area, giving you the incentive to come back time and again. Turnbulls is that ideal mix of traditional quality with modern choices – perfectly ripe local Dorset Blue Vinney sitting next to the best Gorgonzola Dolce in the world – making it one of the foremost food havens in the West Country. It’s certainly evident as you walk through their doors.


> flavour shaftesbury

The King John Inn By Catherine Hannah

I

had very high expectations for our night away at the King John Inn. One peek at its glossy website tells you that this is not your run-of-the-mill country pub with rooms above. Click on the ‘press’ page to find a host of glowing accolades and exuberant praise from the national newspapers, adding to my anticipation for the evening of indulgence that was to come. The King John Inn sits nestled in the pretty village of Tollard Royal, in what was once said to be the monarch’s hunting ground of choice. Centuries later the Inn has not lost its hunting and shooting connections. Everything from the meat-and-game-heavy menu to the blood-sports-inspired artwork follows the theme of the oldest and most aristocratic of British traditions. I arrived wishing I were wearing just a little more tweed and driving something a little more expensive. We began our visit with an invigorating romp around the surrounding countryside with thanks to a loan of a battered OS map and careful instructions from the friendly staff.We finished our stroll (read; hike) with a ramble through famous local Guy Ritchie’s Wiltshire seat, along the route he and his former wife famously tried to close to the public. I can see why they wanted to keep this little slice of England to themselves; the scenery in this part of the world is simply beautiful and well worth exploring to work up an appetite. All the fresh air and exercise was thirsty work and we concluded our tour of King John’s ancient lands with a well-earned pint by the roaring fire in welcoming surroundings.

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Owners Alex and Gretchen have transformed this country inn from a dilapidated shell of a pub to a smart, boutique-y establishment that exudes warmth and elegance.The interior is laidback posh – cosy but refined. Mismatched wooden chairs cluster around scrubbed pine tables, while little pots of herbs perch next to rustic candles.The artwork, although inspired by the favourite pastimes of some long-dead monarch, are modern black and white shots from arty angles – not the traditional oil paintings you might expect. Upstairs in the bedrooms the interior design is designer-country in style.There was the obligatory enormous bed almost hidden by luxurious tweed cushions, and roll-top bath in the traditional marble bathroom. Beautiful features like the artwork (I tried to persuade my partner that they wouldn’t miss one of the paintings), antique furniture and the quirky little objets d’art sit alongside state-of-the-art gadgets (futuristic phone, contemporary shower, top-of-the-range tea and coffee making facilities, flat screen TV, the list goes on) to make this an extremely stylish and comfortable place to stay. Doubles start at £120 for B&B including morning papers. At dinner the atmosphere was busy and cheerful. Hoots of laughter and jolly conversation rung out as we perused the menu over a G&T in the candlelit bar. There is a distinctly British feel to the ever-changing menu and the chefs here place great emphasis on the quality and provenance of the ingredients – everything is extremely local and seasonal, cooked imaginatively and with quirky elements. I

tried the deep-fried cuttlefish with chorizo and clams (delicious) and my partner chose bacon with deep-fried pheasant eggs – basically a little English breakfast on a plate (always a winner if a little unusual at this time of day). Our mains were hearty and warming on a chilly evening, mine a tasty chowder full of fresh, delicate seafood and my partner’s an absolute triumph of a rump steak, the best either of us had tried in a long time. The availability of wine by the carafe put paid to our usual discussions over which tipple to choose. I opted for a crisp Chablis (£18 for 250ml) and my partner a delicate Pinot Noir.The wine list was reassuringly expensive and extremely varied, not surprising considering that the King John has its own wine shop onsite and a wine merchant as its owner. Everything on the wine list is available to buy in the shop. The following morning we headed down to a peaceful breakfast in the sun-drenched bar.Taking my time over the paper with a scrumptious plate of eggs Benedict and a pot of tea, all was right with the world. I felt well-fed, well-rested and fantastically relaxed.Whether you are partial to the great outdoors or just love good food and fine wine, you will enjoy everything the King John Inn has to offer.What’s not to like? The King John Inn Tollard Royal Salisbury Wiltshire SP5 5PS Call: 01725 516207 Visit: www.kingjohninn.co.uk


The interior is laid-back posh – cosy but refined. Mismatched wooden chairs cluster around scrubbed pine tables, while little pots of herbs perch next to rustic candles.


> flavour shaftesbury

Honeybuns

The Coppleridge Inn

By mixing luscious ingredients, anoraky attention to detail and plenty of fun, Honeybuns aim to deliver the ‘WOW’ and ‘YUM’ factors in every cake they make. And Honeybuns have teamed up with flavour to offer one lucky reader a £25 gift bag and three ‘Tea Party in a Purse’ prizes to the runners-up. Visit www.honeybuns.co.uk/flavour and answer a simple question by June 1 for your chance to win. Good luck!

Set in 15 acres of beautiful Dorset countryside, The Coppleridge Inn offers a wonderful destination where you can have a game of tennis, walk your dog, let the children run about and play, get married, enjoy a wonderful meal inside or out on the terrace, stay in cosy ground floor rooms, hold a celebration dinner or party and essentially relax in a truly British Inn. What more could you ask for?

Reader Offer

Visit: www.honeybuns.co.uk

La Chasse La Chasse is a small, speciality company dedicated to sourcing and distributing quality locally-produced artisan products to the food industry.They are particularly proud of their association with local producers such as Creedy Carver (freerange ducks) and Castlemead (Somerset free-range guinea fowl). Stan Stanbury supplies La Chasse with fantastic wild red deer venison from the heart of Exmoor, Laverstoke Park in Hampshire supply buffalo mozzarella and buffalo meat, while the sirloins of beef come from a small slaughterhouse in Taunton, which are hung to order for our customers.

The Coppleridge Inn Elm Hill, Motcombe, Dorset SP7 9HW Call: 01747 851980 Visit: www.coppleridge.com

Hunter-gathering for kitchens With charcuterie, salad leaf/watercress, premium puff pastry from Dorset, Luscombe drinks from Devon and local cheeses and chutneys, they have a full range of ‘taste’ from the West to offer.

“La Chasse are helpful, flexible, honest and on time”– Tim Maddens (Head Chef, River Cottage) “La Chasse continue to promote & distribute our Free Range ducks & chickens with great vigour, together we make a great team’ James Coleman, producer Creedy Carver” La Chasse 9 Kingsmead Business Park, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5JG Call: 01747 823978 Visit: www.lachasselimited.co.uk 56


> flavour shaftesbury

Plumber Manor Plumber Manor is a delightful stone manor house situated in a charming garden. Bordered by the Devilish stream in the heart of Thomas Hardy’s ‘vale of little dairies’, it’s one of the prettiest parts of the Dorset countryside. It is owned and run by the Prideaux-Brune family, who have lived in the house for the last 400 years and their famed hospitality from Brian in the kitchen to Richard, Tim and Alison behind the bar, has been continuous since 1972, since when the the restaurant has featured in the Good Food Guide. The hotel has 16 bedrooms, six in the main house and 10 purpose-built in the courtyard.The restaurant is open seven nights a week and for Sunday lunch. The relaxing atmosphere belies its excellent hospitality, delicious locally-sourced food and lovely bedrooms. Come and join the fun!

Plumber Manor Country House Hotel Sturminster Newton, Dorset DT10 2AF Call: 01258 472507 Visit: www.plumbermanor.co.uk

De-Liz De-Liz Deli is situated in the heart of Tisbury where it has built up a reputation for selling delicious fresh food on a daily basis and offers any budding chef a larder of seasonal and essential ingredients. The best local, seasonal produce is also well represented, from fresh asparagus to ice cream. Get it while you can!

The Fox and Hounds The Fox and Hounds is a welcoming, family-run thatched country pub with magnificent views across the Blackmore Vale.They are proud of their quality, locallysourced food and choice of

fine ales and wines, which you can enjoy beside a roaring log fire in winter, in the courtyard garden or on the village green in the warmer months. Dogs and children are always very welcome.

Open seven days a week from 8.30am with freshly baked bread and pastries.

De Liz Jubilee House, High Street,Tisbury SP3 6HD

The Fox and Hounds The Green, East Knoyle,Wiltshire SP3 6BN

Call: 01747 871771 Visit: www.deliz.co.uk

Call: 01747 830573 Visit: www.foxandhounds-eastknoyle.co.uk 57


> flavour shaftesbury

Barbers Cottage A blend of traditional and modern, Barbers Cottage is an 18th-century listed holiday rental in the heart of Shaftesbury. Recently refurbished, you can relax in the supersoft bedding, wallow in the freestanding bath or snuggle up on the sofa in front of the fire. Short breaks available, perfect for families, friends or as a romantic stay with a garden and private patio area. Sleeps five.

Call: 07957 571989 Email labreycottages@gmail.com Visit: www.holiday-rentals.co.uk (Property Number p803557)

Barford Farm Visit Barford Farm at Sturminster Marshall and savour the flavours including the award-winning Whisky and Orange Marmalade, Liquorice, Amaretto,Walnut, Coconut, Lemon and Blueberry ice creams.These

homemade, delicious ice creams and sorbets can all be devoured in the stunningly beautiful garden.These perfect Dorset delights are ideal for spring and summer. Free parking and entry.

Ridings Once you’ve exhausted yourself across the cobbles of Shaftesbury, you’ll look to reflect over a drink and a bite to eat. Look no further than Ridings, an incredible European Café Tea Room and the extraordinary result of one man’s vision – it’s a true hidden gem. A continental-inspired bistro, it’s an unordinary approach

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Simply Passionate in a very established town, but there lies the charm. It defies convention and has found a way to stand out in a more memorable way. From the mouthwatering Italian cream cakes to the German honey on the Belgian waffles, everything is taken a step further to create a unique experience.

Barford Farm Sturminster Marshall,Wimborne, Dorset BH21 4BY

Ridings Online Shop & Café Tea Rooms 17 Bell Street, Shaftesbury SP7 8AR

Call: 01258 857969 Visit: www.barford-icecream.co.uk

Call: 01747 858436 Visit: www.ridings.eu


The Beckford Arms The Beckford Arms is a traditional yet stylish country pub located on the edge of the rolling parkland of the Fonthill Estate in south Wiltshire just off the A303 - only 20 minutes from Stonehenge or Salisbury and under two hours from London by car or train.

The Beckford offers great food in a classic pub environment with all the comforts of a smart hotel, but at bed and breakfast prices. The pub has a main bar, restaurant, sitting room, a private dining room in the library, eight bedrooms, and a large garden and terrace.

The Beckford Arms Fonthill Gifford,Tisbury SP3 6PX Call: 01747 870385 Visit: www.beckfordarms.com

The Stapleton Arms The Stapleton Arms is a country pub with rooms situated in the pretty North Dorset village of Buckhorn Weston close to the A303.The pub has a spacious bar, elegant dining room and a secluded garden in which to enjoy the great range of draught and bottled beers, quality wines and delicious food on offer. The changing menu is simple but modern and innovative, prepared using the very best fresh and locally sourced ingredients. Upstairs there are four individually furnished bedrooms offering supreme comfort with fantastic beds, Egyptian cotton linen and state-of-the-art bathrooms.

The Stapleton Arms Church Hill, Buckhorn Weston, Dorset SP8 5HS Call: 01963 370396 Visit: www.thestapletonarms.com


> flavour sian blunos

Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

KNOW YOUR

SALT

Government recommendations for a healthy diet encourage the population to follow a balanced diet made up of a wide range of foods, as set out in the ‘eat well’ plate. The Department of Health has the responsibility to encourage and facilitate healthy eating habits to improve diet and nutrition in the UK in order to reduce diet-related diseases.

continue through to adulthood so give your children a good start by reducing their salt intake.

This helps to obtain sufficient nutrients, minerals and vitamins to remain healthy. The effect of diet on the health of children and adolescents is an important link to many diseases.

• 4 to 6 years: 3g salt a day (1.2g sodium)

Simple changes can be made to a child’s diet to make sure they don’t consume too much salt. Give them healthy snacks such as fruit and yogurt rather than crisps. Swap highly processed meats for chicken, tuna and salad in sandwiches. Don’t add salt to their food. Read labels (the salt content is usually given as figures for sodium) particularly packet or jarred sauces, and soups. Even some stock cubes are high in salt. Cereals can be high in salt. Cakes, bread and biscuits all contain salt. Beware of takeaway meals. Habits formed in childhood

The daily recommended maximum amount of salt children should eat depends on age: • 1 to 3 years: 2g salt a day (0.8g sodium)

• 7 to 10 years: 5g salt a day (2g sodium) • 11 years and over: 6g salt a day (2.4g sodium) Look at the figure for salt per 100g:

SWEETCORN FRITTERS These can be made up in advance and frozen in batches, they make a great snack or teatime treat!

Makes 10-12 good sized portions. INGREDIENTS 4o /100g plain flour ¼ tsp baking powder ¼ tsp caster sugar ¼ tsp ground mace 1 egg, lightly beaten 3floz/90ml milk

• High is more than 1.5g salt per 100g (or 0.6g sodium). May display a red traffic light.

2oz/50g tinned or frozen sweetcorn kernels

• Low is 0.3g salt or less per 100g (or 0.1g sodium). May display a green traffic light.

Unsalted butter or oil for frying

COOKING FOR COCO Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious. To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com

METHOD 1 Sieve the dry ingredients into a bowl. Add the egg and about threequarters of the milk. Mix well and add the remaining milk to make a smooth, thick batter. Mix in the sweetcorn. 2 Heat a little butter or oil in a nonstick pan then spoon in the batter, a dessertspoonful at a time, frying gently for 1½ minutes until the surface appears silky. Turn over and continue cooking for about a further 1¼ minutes until golden brown. 3 Lift out and lay on kitchen paper to cool. Repeat with the remaining mixture. Divide into portions and serve or freeze.

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aió

Sardinia Restaurant and Bar

Some things are just meant to be. A friend had recently returned from Sardinia and had been singing the praises of the country and the next thing she knew, Cathy French was out at Aió, the Sardinian restaurant on George Street in Bath...

D

espite only living a 20-minute walk away, I am embarrassed to say that I had never been to Aió before. To be fair, I think that was because it had gone through a few incarnations before being taken over by Italian owners/managers Mauro and Salvatore in 2009. We arrived just before 8 o’clock on a Saturday evening and, apart from one table reserved for us, all the others were already occupied. “A bijou place with about 25 covers,” I began writing in my head, but then I heard peals of laughter coming from beyond the bar, only to discover a back room seating up to 60 people – that was full too and the happy hubbub emanating from it was just what you wanted to hear. Right, onto the meal: We began with gin and tonics which Mauro suggested would be complemented by a basket of their Pane Guttiau – homemade Sardinian flatbreads seasoned with rosemary and salt – together with some Sardinian olives, shipped over and marinated in situ. I suppose, price-wise, it would be termed a ‘mid-range’ restaurant with starters from £5.45 to £8.95. And what an array – spiced sardines, grilled halloumi, lamb spiedino,

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chargrilled calamari, mutton prosciutto, to name about half of what was on offer. I chose the calamari and my partner had the mutton. If you favour battered rubber rings then you will hate the calamari served up here – it was so tender and with a delicious chargrilled flavour. “Wow, you so get the mutton,” was my partner’s comment on the prosciutto. Mauro told us that the prosciutto and the fab bottle of red he chose for us, Cannonau di Sardegna, Riserva, all came from an area within about 20 minutes of his parents’ home in Sardinia For our mains, I had Fregola Seafood and Valentine (yes, he really is called that) chose the free-range thighs of chicken, boned and marinated with thyme and lemon and chargrilled. If you don’t know what Fregola is (I didn’t), it’s a roasted large semolina pasta, typical of Sardinia. I suppose it’s like a cross between a risotto and paella but made with these big pearls of pasta. I’m sure I don’t need to describe what boneless chicken is like, except to say that, like the calamari, it was beautifully tender. Almost all of the daily specials were fish and seafood and on offer the night we were there was baked whole bream in salt, cuttlefish risotto, spiced

mussels, homemade salmon ravioli and swordfish. Vegetarian choices included Aubergine Scamorza (an aubergine, smoked cheese and spinach combo) and a vegetarian version of my seafood Fregola. While I do eat fish, I don’t eat meat, but am always interested in the meat choices on menus, particularly its provenance. I noted that all the chicken dishes used free-range chicken and the lamb and beef were both from local suppliers. Interestingly there was also game on the menu in the form of Rabbit Cacciatora (cooked with mushrooms, olives and tomatoes) which, Mauro says, is going down really well. While beef and lamb are the meats of choice, Aió does serve ‘Sardinian Roast Piglet’ every Sunday – It is advisable to book! In short, excellent from start to finish…

Aió Sardinia Restaurant and Bar 7 Edgar Buildings George Street Bath BA1 2EE 01225 443900 www.aiorestaurant.co.uk


I’m sure I don’t need to describe what boneless chicken is like, except to say that, like the calamari, it was beautifully tender

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> flavour xxxxxxx

the herb doctor Max Drake is a practising medical herbalist at the Urban Fringe Dispensary, where he runs courses and workshops teaching how to use herbs safely and effectively, treat common ailments and stay healthy.

THIS H T MON

Boneset

(Eupatorium perfoliatum)

Alliesthesia is when you are either attracted or repelled by something according to the needs of your body at that particular time. To illustrate a really good example of alliesthesia in action I remember my own experience with the American herb Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum) a couple of years ago when I was coming down with the flu. This was proper flu, by the way, not the sniffles. BONESET (Eupatorium perfoliatum) I was at the early stage, where you feel utterly rubbish – cold, shivery, aching, and completely devoid of any feeling of wellbeing. I knew about boneset, having tried the tincture in a recent workshop with some students, and assumed now would be the time to put it to the test and see if it would help. So I made a pot of boneset tea, quite strong, and let it brew for 10 minutes or so. Previously I had recoiled from its bitter taste, finding it wholly unpleasant both as a tea and as a tincture, but this time, when I came to drink the first cup from this pot, it tasted like the nectar of the gods. 64

I drank the whole pot, and not long after made another one. Boneset is a peripheral vasodilator, and drinking hot boneset tea pushes internal heat out to the exterior and before long will get you sweating. It also seems to have some antiviral properties – so you have two actions in this one herb that are absolutely appropriate during the early stages of flu. What you want at this point is to raise the body’s temperature, to generate some heat to bring on a sweat – this is how our immune systems deal with flu-like viruses, and is the whole point of having a fever. Once you break sweat you are fighting back, so it is to be encouraged. For a couple of days I drank quite a lot of boneset tea, mostly loving it, but also having the odd cup that didn’t taste quite so good. And just as I was starting to relax into post-fever torpor – a state where the sense of being ill has disappeared, and where all you want to do is rest for a nice long while, the boneset tea started to taste revolting, and I literally couldn’t take another sip.

I do not normally like boneset tea because it tastes unpleasantly bitter, and genetic research suggests that plant toxins in the diets of early humans drove the evolution of bitter taste receptors. However, there are some bitter compounds that plants produce that are actually quite good for us, and we now know that humans, since coming out of the trees and parting company with our nearest relatives some six million years ago, have evolved genes that express quite different and novel bitter taste receptors, allowing us to differentiate between different classes of really toxic bitter plant compounds, such as strychnine, and ones that are potentially beneficial, such as those found in boneset. What we don’t really understand though, is how our bodies know when to switch on the right genes, to express the taste receptors that will attract us to plant compounds that will be beneficial at that particular time.


flavour’s

m m e r u s

e

fe d sti i val gu

Spring, summer, the great outdoors, wine, artisan producers, people and fun – just some of the ingredients that make festivals such a huge draw. We’ve picked a few for your diaries that showcase some of the best local produce around...


flavour’s summer festival guide

Vegfest UK Bristol

WHEN: 25, 26, 27 MAY

WHERE: HARBOURSIDE, BRISTOL Reggae vibes and veggie burgers will once again be in plentiful supply at this year’s VegfestUK Bristol, the world’s biggest veggie event and now in its 10th year, held by the harbourside in central Bristol on May 25th, 26th & 27th. Admission is completely free all weekend and there is a strong line-up of music and entertainment on the main stage. But while for many the attraction of VegfestUK Bristol lies firmly with music, there’s a lot of others that come mainly for the wonderful food, shopping opportunities, and a wealth of over 75 talks, cookery demos and presentations. There are two big marquees with over 120 stalls crammed full of the latest veggie food products, bodycare, fashion, clothes, information and accessories, many at vastly discounted prices, and including lots of free samples and tasters too.

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There’s also an intriguing Ready Steady Chef competition involving local chefs cooking off against each other, and a Great Veggie Burger and Sausage competition involving lots of tasting and judging by the audience. And with a dedicated Kids Area (complete with kids cookery classes), The Animal Sanctuary (featuring people who work with animals) a comedy and chillout tent, crazy golf course and three performance stages with acoustic acts on throughout the day, VegfestUK Bristol 2012 looks to be the best yet!

www.bristol.vegfest.co.uk


flavour’s summer festival guide

HEADLINE ACTS

Neville Staple (The Specials), Finley Quaye, Johnny Clarke meets Soothsayers, Talisman, Dub Mafia, Yes Sir Boss

DEDICATED KIDS AREA

KES

A VEGAN C

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flavour’s summer festival guide

St Ives

food and drink festival The third St Ives Food and Drink Festival, showcasing the quality and diversity of some of Cornwall’s leading food and drink producers, including those from in and around the town itself – along with chefs and businesses – takes place at venues across the town between May 21st and 27th, with the cooking demonstrations on the harbour, beach and food producers’ event on West Pier on the weekend of May 26th and 27th. It’s sure to be a highlight once again. Last year’s event was extremely popular – both from a visitor’s perspective and for the businesses that took part – with many of the stallholders on the weekend selling out of produce at the market, the weekday events well attended, more events put on and an overall feeling that the festival had moved on to another level, attracting thousands of visitors. The events during the week – such as the food foraging excursions, special food and drink tasting sessions and guided walks – were also well attended and even more of these are planned this year.

It’s an ideal way to launch the summer season and gives those visitors enjoying an early holiday the chance to explore the town when it is slightly less crowded and attracts people to the town in its own right which is great.

Andrew Mounsey, who runs Trim Greengrocers in the town, is chairman of St Ives Chamber of Commerce and is in no doubt about how important the festival has become to St Ives in a relatively short time. “We’re delighted to see that the Food and Drink Festival is continuing to grow in terms of popularity and support,” he said. “It provides an excellent opportunity to see the skills of some of St Ives’ outstanding chefs and to try some of the area’s wonderful produce.” Once again, Aspects Holidays and Tregenna Castle are the event’s main sponsors, who are also running special offers for visitors wanting to take in the St Ives Food and Drink Festival. Aspects Holidays (www.aspectsholidays.co.uk) is offering 15 per cent off all properties during the festival. Short breaks are also available for stays between 19th May and 2nd June. Guests need to quote ‘St Ives Food Festival’ when booking. Tregenna Castle (www.tregennacastle.co.uk) is also offering a 25 per cent discount on self-catering weekly stays arriving Sat 19th or Sun 20th May for the week of the food festival.

Call: 0845 603 8456 www.stivesfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk

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flavour’s summer festival guide

Shaftesbury Feastival

Sitting on a peninsula hill with its back to London and the East, Shaftesbury enjoys spectacular views over the unspoilt Blackmore Vale – Hardy’s Vale of the Great Dairies – and on to the West Country. It’s no wonder that in such idyllic surroundings Shaftesbury’s townsfolk have been enjoying the best its surrounding landscape can produce. Shaftesbury Feastival is one of the most popular food festivals in the South West. An entirely free event, it brought in almost 8,000 visitors last year! For residents and producers alike, this is a great family day out that celebrates everything local, where you can buy, try and learn about all sorts of food from those who are passionate about growing, preparing and creating it. Do you want to take the challenge of running up Gold Hill with a full-size cheddar truckle? It’s not easy but in the old days much of the food and drink for the people of Shaftesbury came up that way – up steep cobbles carried by hand. On Feastival day, you can have a go – 44lbs up 99 yards to become ‘King of the Hill’, the quickest entrant winning a big

chunk of Montgomery cheddar from Turnbulls Cheesemonger, your picture in the Blackmore Vale Magazine and all the bragging rights. There are also many side events from music and drama to arts and crafts, activities for children and tastings for parents. Pick up some uniquely tasty local produce at the many stalls, invite friends around and begin the summer right here. Shaftesbury Feastival is a free public event, encapsulating a bit of good old fashioned community spirit. The different areas of the town each have a focus on a particular aspect of the day’s activities, so there’s always something going on…

www.shaftesburyfeastival.co.uk

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flavour’s summer festival guide

Choose from hundreds of Cornwall’s finest holiday cottages

01736 754242 www.aspects-holidays.co.uk

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flavour’s summer festival guide

3rd-5th June 2012

Destination Dartington for a great fun family day out! • M itch Tonks will head up a cast of local and well known chefs in the demonstration kitchen • Food Marquee highlighting Devon’s finest produce • Craft marquee – new for this year • Live music every day • Children’s entertainment every day • Get dressed up for the Jubilee 50’s theme on Tuesday

£4 entrance fee, children under 12 go free, and free parking.

To purchase a ticket visit www.dartington.org/food-fair The Shops at Dartington, Cider Press Centre, Shinners Bridge, Dartington, Totnes, Devon TQ9 6TQ

ST IVES CORNISH FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL y 2 012 A M H 21 st – 2 7 t

RELAX, EAT, DRINK AND ENJOY!!!

A week long festival of local food & drink

food & drink EvEnts

CookinG dEMos LoCAL ProdUCErs MArkEt frEE fAMiLY fUn See website for all events, dates and times:

www.stivesfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk

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The Finest Cuts

Cotswold Pig Cotswold Pig’s free-range Gloucester Old Spot pigs are bred and reared in the Cotswolds, allowing them grow and mature slowly. They believe a happy pig is a tasty pig. They source local beef, lamb and free-range chicken for their mobile butcher’s shop that visits four villages and two markets, but this will be increasing as popularity for the products are growing. The main philosophy is high welfare and low miles, both good for the meat and fantastic for the plate.

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Cotswold Pig have launched a new meat box scheme where you choose the products you wish to receive each week, fortnight or month. This is delivered free of charge to you at home. You get fantastic quality meat, superb prices and above all the taste of the good life – fresh produce from local farmers, who believe in welfare over profit.

Receive 20%off your first meat box with this advert code: cpfm2012

07585 778954 info@cotswoldpig.co.uk www.cotswoldpig.co.uk


Although we are constantly told to eat our greens, have our five a day and watch what we eat, we often overlook the tastiest and most succulent of produce – our meat – and never does a plate look so complete than with a chunk of protein heading up the dish...

John Sheppard Butchers ‘the traditional butcher for modern living’ John Sheppard Butchers Ltd is a local, family-owned company based in Bristol. Established in 1936, they have been supplying high-quality locally-sourced fresh meat and poultry products for over 70 years. You can now sample the level of quality and years of experience that they provide delivered directly to your door. If you are hosting a fine-dining style dinner party to show off your culinary skills or a lazy summer’s afternoon

barbeque, John Sheppard Butchers can cater for all your carnivorous needs. Their easy-to-navigate website allows you to browse through products, recipes and useful cooking tips. Orders can also be placed by telephone.

0117 9557 775 john@john-sheppard.co.uk www.johnshepparddirect.com

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THE ASSEMBLY INN THE HOME OF THE

BATH PIE

01225 333639

www.theassemblyinn.com 16 Alfred St Bath, Avon BA1 2QU COSY COURTYARD OUT THE BACK

We serve a special range of locally made Lovett Artisan Pies including the Bath Pie made with Marshfield Beef and Abbey Ales Bellringer with a Red Onion Marmalade The Assembly and Bath Blue Cheese Crust.

Quiz is coming back in May!

Find us on Facebook under The Assembly Inn

New Summer Menu Coming Soon Comedy Nights in Festival Bar Free Hire of Festival Bar for parties and functions

Sky Sports 3D and Big Screen. The Pub with something for everyone!

Sunday Roasts served 12pm–6pm

Beer Festival: 18th, 19th, 20th May. All Local Spring Ales with Live Music

Shang_(AD3):Layout 1 11/04/2012 12:42 Page 1

Shanghai Nights Pan Asian Buffet and Dim Sum Going for Gold, Silver or Bronze, you will always become the winner! We are all about choice, as a customer you choose your menu. Freshly steamed dim sum right in front of you, just how it should be – the Hong Kong way Experience the first freshly steamed dim sum in Bristol – you choose we steam right inside our restaurant!

Gold Menu Cooked to order plus all you can eat buffet. With over 140 cooked to order dishes include fresh seafood, dim sum and authentic dishes plus another 100 more from the buffet station, you are spoilt for choice! Saturday, Sunday, Monday & Tuesday - Adult £18.00 / under 1.4m £9.00 Midweek special – Wednesday, Thursday & Friday Adult £16.00 / under 1.4m £8.00

Silver Menu All you can eat buffet. Lunch 12-3pm Monday to Friday Adults £6.50 / under 1.4m £3.50. Open all day Saturday and Sunday. Evenings 5.30pm to 10.30pm. Adult £12.50 / under 1.4m £7.50. Midweek special – Wednesday, Thursday & Friday adult 2 for £20 / under 1.4m 2 for £12.00 Over 100 Pan Asian dishes, from crispy duck, fresh seafood, sushi, and live dim sum station to salads and desserts.

Bronze Menu Dim sum A La Carte menu. Experience the very best dim sum, made freshly from our award winning Chef Lam. This is only available from 12-3pm everyday. A La Carte menu, priced individually on each dishes.

5 Nelson Street, Bristol BS1 2JT

Tel: 01179 450505

shanghainightsbristol.co.uk


> flavour martin blunos

A JOLLY JUBILEE

CORONATION CHICKEN INGREDIENTS

Memories are stirred for Martin Blunos as he recalls a rather special previous engagement... Another royal jubilee has come around – how ten years have flown since the last one. I was honoured to cook for Her Majesty and Prince Philip those ten years ago when they visited Bath as part of their UK tour. My team in the kitchen consisted of a select group of dinner ladies that I picked from schools in the community. They did a sterling job and delivered on all fronts to make my job a doddle. So with this year’s jubilee comes a new start and new beginnings. For the Queen it’s business as usual serving the country, while for me it’s a large project in the West Midlands at Hogarths Hotel (www.hogarths.co.uk). The buildings and grounds have been undergoing a major refurbishment – 32 luxurious bedrooms, added to the existing 18. A brand new state-of-the-art electric kitchen to service an already banging wedding and function trade, a new funky brasserie and Champagne bar along with an intimate ‘gilded lily’ of a fine-dining restaurant make up the additions.

So back to Liz and Pip. Having met and ‘shot the breeze’ as it were, after her lunch at the Guildhall (which she loved by the way) we now address each other on a much more informal basis – I’m big M. As a tribute, here is my take on that ’50’s classic ‘Coronation Chicken’ – this recipe is a bit of work but stick with it, the effort will make you feel good about yourself and your stomach will love you for it. Failing that you could put a tablespoon of curry powder into half a jar of Hellmann’s and Bob’s your uncle!

200ml chicken stock 70gms shallots, finely chopped ¼ of a clove garlic, pasted 2 tbsp rapeseed oil 4 tsp medium curry powder 2 tsp tomato purée 1 tsp light Muscovado sugar 1 tbsp lime juice 100gms mayonnaise 250gms fromage frais 80gms fresh ripe mango brunoise 3 spring onions – trimmed and cut thinly on the angle 25gms toasted flaked almonds Fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped 8 dried apricots Salt & pepper 3 large cooked chicken breasts or a whole roast chicken, cooled METHOD 1 Put apricots in a small pan – just cover with cold water – bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 tbsp of the cooking liquid, and put apricots in a blender with the reserved liquid – blend for a few minutes until smooth. Rub through a sieve and set aside. 2 Heat oil in a pan, add onion and garlic and cook gently until soft and pale (not burnt) for about 5 minutes then add the curry powder. Stir and cook for a further minute.

It’s all coming together nicely and it’s not too far from the original plans that were drawn up many moons ago – we are on revised drawing 11! The team is in place and we are ‘ready to rock’. Will update you all on progress.

3 Pour in the (hot) stock and mix in the tomato purée. Cover pan and simmer for 10 minutes. Off the heat, remove the cover and add the sugar – stick blend – rub all through a sieve.

Follow me on Twitter: @martinblunos1

4 Mix in the lime juice and 1 tbsp of the apricot purée – cool.

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 75


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‘Super’ saag, a versatile spinach curry Saag (or palak) refers to a puréed spinach curry and it’s super handy because you can make proud claims to a list of at least six Indian dishes with just one recipe. Just marinade your choice of ingredient in your favourite Indian spices, quickly pan fry or roast them à la tandoori, and pour this versatile spinach gravy over. Paneer cubes for the popular palak paneer, potatoes for saag aloo, chicken for saag/palak murgh; it’s ever so versatile. INGREDIENTS 4 large bunches of spinach 1 handful fresh coriander

Spinach

8 cloves of garlic, minced (I’m a huge fan of garlic) 1 onion, chopped finely 2 green chillies, chopped ½ tsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp coriander ½ tsp turmeric ½ cup local and organic cream or full-fat yogurt sea salt Squeeze of lemon

BY SHU HAN LEE

2 tbsp ghee (clarified butter) Generous pinch of sea salt

The sun seems to set a tiny bit later in the day and I get woken up at dawn by annoyingly chirpy birds, but the cold winds still blow. I can’t decide if winter is finally over. Much as I love roasted parsnips and carrots, the stodgy root vegetables and potatoes of the wintry months have lost their appeal, and I find myself wishing more and more strongly for the lightness and greens of spring. The more delicate herbs and salad leaves may not be ready to take their place at the farmers’ markets, but there is one vegetable that makes a welcome early start on the leafy green front. The appearance of spinach marks the turn of spring for me. Its tender leaves

make a great addition to raw salads, and are beautiful with goat’s cheese, beetroot and a sprinkle of your favourite nuts; or, for a more decadent treat, with crispy bacon and a warm mustard dressing made from the bacon fat. I love it cooked too, simply steamed/blanched, or sautéed with lots and lots of garlic and anchovies. But since it’s still a bit too chilly for salads, soups and curries seem to me the best way to use the spinach. Do note that spinach cooks down astonishingly, so make sure you get large bunches. Spinach is incredibly rich in nutrients, so there’s no reason why we shouldn’t be enjoying more of it. Popeye had it right!

If you want to find out more about this recipe, just do a search on my blog, Mummy, I can cook! mummyicancook.blogspot.com

METHOD 1 Blanch spinach in boiling water for one minute, uncovered. Drain. Refresh in cold water to stop it from overcooking and to retain its beautiful bright green. 2 Over a medium high heat, add the ghee. Toast the cumin seeds. 3 Add the onions (plus a pinch of salt), garlic and green chillies, and sauté until the onions sweat and turn translucent, but aren’t browned. Then, add the ground spices and sauté for a minute more. 4 Adding the puréed spinach, season; bring to a simmer, before stirring in the yogurt or cream and simmering gently for two more minutes. 5 Finish off with a squeeze of lemon.

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Let them eat pasty

Nick Harman gets on the defensive as a nation’s favourite hits the headlines...

The proposal to add VAT onto hot food such as pasties really set the food nerds on Twitter into a cackle-storm last month. The majority of them have never bought a pasty, or even a steak bake, from the UK’s popular purveyor of such items, while some of the dimmer ones seemed to think the chain was owned by Gregg Wallace of MasterChef. No, as usual it was a chance to demonstrate proper foodie credentials and take turns to bash the store. It reminded me of the bit in the film Airplane where passengers queue up to slap the hysterical woman, each with a bigger weapon. Funny, but wrong. I’m as middle class as the next foodie, perhaps more so as I went to public school, but I have never felt any guilt eating from ‘that place’. I don’t like the pasties as it happens, but I do like the sausage rolls, the steak bakes (of course) and the breakfast coffee and bacon roll meal deal. I like Yum Yums and I definitely like the prices. In fact, what’s not to like?

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year. 78

Okay now someone will write in to tell me the steak bakes are made from cows that are forced to live in shoeboxes, kept in total darkness and fed on other cows with Alzheimers. So what? They taste great! The pasties do pong a bit it’s true and anyone who attempts to eat one on a bus, which in my parts seems to be

everyone, should have their passes torn up on the spot and given a thoroughly good kicking into the bargain. Buses are not restaurants, what makes you think they are bwuv? Possibly the bus-bad pasty scoffers have mental problems too. I’ve long maintained that hamburgers soften the mind, lower libido, encourage a desire to blog and cause men to grow breasts as well as lose all sense of taste. Perhaps pasties have a different but equally pernicious effect? The best pasties I’ve ever eaten were in Newlyn, in Cornwall. Great big things with the correct side handle of crust and the right ingredients – chunks of beef, potato, onion and swede (or turnip, as it’s called in Cornwall). In fact Cornish pasties now have PDO Protected Geographic Indication status, meaning the pasties can only be made in Cornwall, and only pasties meeting specification can have the name ‘Cornish Pasty’ on their label. So perhaps we will be seeing new labelling such as ‘pasty-like product’ or similar on the counters? Whatever’s decided, and despite a small price hike, pasties will, in whatever form, continue to offer cheap eats for people who can’t afford to buy much else, which is getting to be a large proportion of the UK. Good luck to them.


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Flavour South West Issue 48  

For people who love local food

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