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his stall. “It’s a much maligned grape,” he states, “and it was a big risk, planting more of it. But there was never a moment when I felt it wouldn’t work. The reputation of Chenin Blanc has suffered, and it’s still often viewed as an entry level style of wine.” He’s right; Chenin Blanc makes some of the greatest white wines in the Loire Valley, from Vouvray to Savennieres and the lusciously sweet Bonnezeaux. Ken’s mission is to create that reputation for South African Chenin. He feels the same about Pinotage, South Africa’s native grape, which he reckons is largely misunderstood, and often neglected today; again, it’s down to what you do with the grape that matters, and his unwooded, juicy, fruity Petit Pinotage dispels the myth that this grape is tough, unwieldy and an acquired taste. A passionate lover of Rhone-style wines, Ken’s wildly spiced, and edgy, Renegade, is testament to his belief in the Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre mix – his desert island wine would be a magnum, or preferably an imperial, of top-notch Chateauneuf du Pape. Following his first vintage in 1994, Ken is riding high on the crest of a wave that is driving the success of high-quality South African wines, and is determined to see them up there, in terms of recognition and accolades, with France. Matching his hand-crafted wines with food is another passion, as he believes wholeheartedly in the philosophy of the right wine enhancing the right dish. He counts as one of his ‘matches made in heaven’, the Scottish Michelin star chef Andrew Fairlie’s lobster with smoked lime butter, with his own Forrester FMC. Ken is a larger-than-life personality, with presence, character and charm. Yet there is a humility to him, an engaging sense of values, and a passionate belief in the power of nature. “Nature keeps you humble; you have to work with it, not fight it, and recognise that, as a winemaker, you are never in control. Not a day goes by when nature doesn’t teach you something you didn’t know.” By the taste of his wine, it looks as though Ken and nature have a pretty good understanding of each other.
HERE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVOURITES: Ken Forrester Reserve Chenin Blanc 2011 Ken’s Chenin Blanc reserve is big, bold, complex and creamy, yet possessing a racy, structured elegance and verve. It has a lovely, zesty minerality, which lifts the warm, nectarine and peach fruit character, with a whack of fresh lime juice on the finish. Chenin Blanc is a great food wine, and this would be perfect with Moroccan spiced marinades, fruity couscous and Sunday’s roast pork and apple stuffing! Ken Forrester FMC 2011 The FMC is Ken’s flagship Chenin Blanc, a wine of incredible depth and texture, which will last for up to 10 years. There is much speculation about what the letters stand for, but effectively the wine is a collaboration between Forrester and fellow winemaker and friend Martin Meinert. Elegant, restrained, with a plethora of intensely rich, peach and apricot fruit, layers of cream, toasted hazelnuts and soft butter, the edgy flick of citrus on the finish adds to its complexity. It’s a perfect foil for grown-up, mildly spiced dishes, and rich seafood. I last tried it with Chris Staines’ from Allium’s dish of crab, sesame oil spice, avocado cream, pickled turnips and peanut brittle – it was a sublime match! Ken Forrester Petit Pinotage 2012 Proving that Pinotage can be approachable and easy drinking, this deliciously vibrant, cheerful and juicily fruity red is just the job for a good weekday red, and works perfectly with tomatobased pasta sauces, pizza, and chilli con carne. Ken uses techniques to extract the maximum juicy fruit from the grapes, and makes this wine, almost as he would a white – grape maceration, cool fermentation and strictly no oak. Ken Forrester The Renegade 2008 My personal favourite from the range, this is Ken’s take on the classic Rhone blend of Grenache Syrah and Mourvedre. The name comes from the fact that there are no rules when making up this blend and the mix may vary from year to year. Ken ‘doesn’t do rules’, and this wild, spicy, heady red is testament to the individuality and character that he manages to transmit into all of his wines. Aged in old barrels for two years to ‘grow up and finish school’ as he puts, it, The Renegade is a gloriously rich mix of dark, cinnamon-spiced berries, framboise, wild herbs and dark chocolate, with a velvety, sweet spice edge, and a voluptuous texture. I can’t think of a more perfect match than lamb with this, cooked in all manner of guises. Ken Forrester The Gypsy 2009 Ken’s iconic red, made, once again, from his much-loved Rhone trilogy of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. As the name implies, this is a wild, bohemian, dense, full-bodied red with unique power and character. The 2009 will have been aged for at least two years before being released; brooding, sultry and dark, it will last a good 10 years in the cellar, but for those who can’t wait, it’s a rich, intense, still restrained red, just waiting to kick out – aromas and flavours are still tightly reined-in, but the promise is all there. Wild herbs, dense black cherries, smoke, licorice, dried figs and cinnamon-spiced blackberries, with a brush of sweet, ripe oak – it’s all there. Incredible depth, power, texture and structure. Open up for indulgent roast beef, garlic and rosemary spiked lamb, or rich, mature cheeses. All wines are available from Great Western Wine Shop, Wells Road, Bath Call 01225 322810 Visit www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Tickets to the Wine School; www.greatwesternwine.co.uk/wine-school 31