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APRIL 2013 // ISSUE 3


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F EDITOR / ART DIRECTOR Sarah-Eve Leduc EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Ruby-Maude Rioux CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Mélissa Des Groseillers Michelle Tremblay Ruby-Maude Rioux CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Hollie Fernando Jessy Gosselin Kristin Cofer Marianna Garcia Marlon Kunreich CONTRIBUTORS Jason Levesques GRAPHIC DESIGNER Sarah Rousseau DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Ryan Webb


Editor's letter Dear Readers, Welcome to the Spring 2013 and third issue of Flanelle Magazine. After a short Christmas break, and a little bit of celebrating, 2013 is off to a flying start ! While others have been planning ahead, and looking forward, I have been taking the time to step back and remember all the joyful moments of my still very young life. With a newly gained perspective, I've looked back at all the beautiful things around me, and all the funny things I find I now see from another eye. In this issue we caught up with the well known designer and artist Jean-Claude Poitras, who discussed with us his views and experiences in Montreal Fashion, and its changes over the past few years. We also looked into the very intimate and magnificent life and persona of actress and artist Diana Garcia; as well as her boyfriend, musician, Gregory Rogove. Other talented individuals are being interviewed and we received great editorial stories, but I will not spoil it any longer. Take this as a perfect opportunity to lighten up your mood as summer is slowly coming to us ! I would like to thank our great team, without them this issue wouldn't be. Enjoy. Sarah-Eve Leduc, Flanelle Magazine's Editor-in-Chief


Flanelle REMEMBERING, IN BLOOM


eve gravel S/S 2013

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10 JEAN-CLAUDE POITRAS

MONTREAL’S FASHION

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54 JENNYFER DESBIENS

MEET THE MODEL

HOLLIE FERNANDO

IN BLOOM

14 DIANA AND GREG

A PECULAR YET BEAUTIFUL COUPLE

62 TRUNKO BALINT

8TH DISTRICT

28 KRISTIN COFER

SUNSTORM

50 JASON LEVESQUE

PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST


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the darling collection sp r i n g / s u m m e r 2 0 1 3

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Photographer : Marlon Kunreich Mua : Steven Reti Section //

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MONTREAL’S FASHION in Jean-Claude Poitras’ eyes

After 40 years working in the fashion industry, Jean-Claude Poitras has do it all and seen it all. He donned the garments of fashion designer (with clothes and furniture), a painter and even sculptor. Contributing repeatedly to « Le Devoir » and hosting several conferences, Poitras has established himself has the reference when talking about fashion.

Can you describe Montreal’s fashion in one sentence ?

It should also be noted that a new generation of sub-contractors wish to rely on the added value of design by providing designers more flexible production in small series to counter the mass production from Asia.

Montreal’s fashion is eclectic, fascinating and inconsistent. It is sometimes on the edge of the kitsch, sometimes marginal, inspired and creative, sometimes commercial, populist and banal. It is capable of the best and the worst.

Has the rebirth came to conclusion or is there still work to do ?

Montreal’s fashion industry is said to be in a stage of rebirth, Why ?

After reaching a critical threshold of survival, Montreal’s fashion has been doing a long climb. Driven by national and international successes, some of its pillars were able to renew and position themselves as true leaders. We here have to quote Aldo, M0851, Rudsak, Joseph Ribkoff, Point Zero, Parasuco, Reitman’s, Peerless, Joanel, Lolë, Tristan, Jacob, etc..

Since the mid-90’s, production’s accelerated transfer to Asia. Quebec’s retailers’ lack of commitment to the province’s creators, in addition to the scandalous failure of Mode Montreal, an organization established to structure and promote upcoming designers that ended up going bankrupt in 2002 after 2 years of existence scared away entrepreneurs and potential investors.

What were the most significant changes in the fashion industry in the last five years ?

Since 2010, however, after going through a difficult fifteen years, several community stakeholders (designers, retailers, manufacturers, developers) got together to bring back some sheen to Montreal’s fashion by leveraging it’s creative and unique image.

Among the greatest influence over the past 5 years, it is worth mentioning : -- T  he invasion of sports brands across the ready-to-wear Nike, Puma, Adidas, Louis Garneau, Billabong, Arc’teryx, etc...

Retailers and manufacturers seem more committed than ever to the importance of working with our designers, while the organizers of the Montreal fashion week (MFW) and the officers of the Bureau de la mode de Montreal promote and vigorously support the excellence of Montreal’s fashion.

-- Fashion is more accessible with the surging phenomenon of retailers offering widely, almost each season, collections signed by well-known designers at low prices. (H&M, Mango, Target Reitman’s, Bedo, Simon’s ...)

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Montreal's Fashion


« MONTREAL’S FASHION IS ECLECTIC, FASCINATING AND INCONSISTENT » Have you noticed a shift in the work of the new generation of designers ?

conciliation, implementation, conglomerate, convergence and correspondence.

-- The invasion and the importance of new fashion technologies, which offers a live fashion with the globalization of trends, the expense of regional influences as well as the proliferation of transactional web sites, online stores and smart phones’ applications.

-- The fashion world is constantly questioned. Trend hunters that are always abreast of the latest changes in society have led fashion to become an industry that will never stop playing the visionary figureheads. -- From the 50’s to the year 2010, this ephemeral universe has made us travel from the haute couture to the ready-to-wear, bringing us to the ready-to-throw so pervasive at the beginning of the decade

-- The marginal creators provide green, engaged and mobilized clothing and accessories to promote eco-friendly, made in natural, organic or recycled materials, manufactured by cooperatives or people in social rehabilitation.

Where do you think the fashion industry will be in five years ?

-- The designers want to win over Medias by playing the provocation offenders instead of the seductive mode.

My previsions for the next fives years :

-- The cult of eternal youth dearly acquired blows the cosmetic surgeries industry (Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, Cher, Orlan etc).

-- An accelerated democratisation of Fashion, which will become a little more affordable and accessible to all.

-- The new standards of beauty, pushing people to an unhealthy look or to anorexia like the fashion models. The movement also includes instant stars-like thugs tattooed from head to toes. (Rick Genest " Zombie Boy ", Andrej Pejic).

-- To the opposite, lux brands will impose their styles and their dreams mostly on up and coming market (Asia, South Africa, Eastern Europe, etc.) -- The technologies revolution will radically change the way we purchase and will enhance the trivial and fleeting trends. Fashion will soon be in and even sooner be out.

The « Pop-Up Shop » : these temporary boutiques that create events since recent seasons. The individualism that has always characterized the approach of the designers of all backgrounds is now replaced by a new philosophy more supportive of each other with an emphasis on group work. Thus we see born collectives, which express a new vision of participation and the symbiosis between designers from different backgrounds. The contribution of multidisciplinary designers has initiated an irreversible trend that is gaining more and more followers. The period was marked by a new school of thought : the doctrine " CO " in reference to co-design, co-branding, cooperation, coalition, cohort, cohesion, coexistence, collaboration, community, conference, community consultation,

Montreal's Fashion

-- To balance the globalization phenomenon, a new movement will start to valorise the specific attractions of regional creativity, the ancestral knowledge and to creations with a social mission. Those will be included in the neo-traditional wave surging all around the world and recognizable by the multiple interpretations and the originality imprinted in the artist’s work. Interview made by Ruby-Maude Rioux Thanks to Noelline Rioux

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Montreal's Fashion


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Sunstorm Photographer : Kristin Cofer Model : Sarah Abney @ Wilhelmina Styling : Lindsay Hastings Burchby @ Thrifted & Modern Retouching : Antonio De Lucci HMU : Teresa Reynolds

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Sunstorm

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Vintage Cardigan

Valentino Undergarments Stylist's Own

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Vintage Sequin Pant Suit

Thrifted & Modern

Sunglasses & Bracelets Stylist's Own

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Vintage Suit

Maurice Vintage Top & Belt Thrifted & Modern

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Vintage Swimsuit

Thrifted & Modern Bracelets Stylist’s Own

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Sunstorm


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Vintage Denim Pant Suit

Yves Saint Laurent Blouse & Belt Stylist’s Own

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Sunstorm


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Vintage Dress

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Thrifted & Modern

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A PECULIAR YET BEAUTIFUL COUPLE BY RUBY-MAUDE RIOUX

Even if we would not dare to admit it, there is always a couple we would want to be. Recently photographed, kissing for the Gap holiday campaign, we can no longer deny that Diana Garcia and Gregory Roggove are one of them. The 31 years old Mexican started her career has an actress, appearing in the Sundance Festival’s Dramatic Directing Award winning movie Sin Nombre but went for visual arts when she moved to Los Angeles with her boyfriend. As for Rogove, best known for his performance in the indie band Megapuss, the musician has been recently acclaimed by the critics for his work in Piana, an album of instrumental, solo piano pieces. « I have been drawing since I was a kid. My grandmother was a painter and a sculptor so I was very close to the arts », explains softly Diana Garcia, sliding her black, wavy hair behind her ear. « Also, at some point in college, I was doing animation and I really wanted to work for Tim Burton, that was my goal. » Two years after having came back to visual arts, Garcia has already manage to create her own style, using mostly black ink. « I feel human body is beautiful and I try to bring some movement to it so, I have these weird interlace figures. Also, I am doing a lot of animal mixing when using different animal shapes and putting them into one. I like it to be surreal and fantastic. » Faceless nudes, wolves with horns: Diana Garcia’s imaginary has a rich and meaningful vision with living metaphors.

Her acting career started in 2006 at Cannes International Film Festival, for the world-premiere of Drama/Mex, her very first movie. The woman talks about this incredible experience with a humble tone, explaining she tried to enjoy the trip with the crew, not letting it take this to her head. « A friend of mine told Gerardo Naranjo I would be great for the role. We met and I got the part. » For Diana Garcia, things is has easy as that, some say it’s destiny. « Every character that comes to me makes sense with the timing of my life. If I am healing something, I will be offered a character that goes with that or, if I am in a situation where I don’t know what to decide, the movie comes and helps me. It’s like therapy. » For now, Diana Garcia is just enjoying the fact that she can live on her passions, saying she only does things that contributes to her happiness. « In my twenties, I didn’t know what I wanted. The thirties gave my consciousness and more control. I use to have things done my way but I have learned that maybe things are better if they are not always my way and that, maybe I am learning. So, I learned to stop and listen and to be open. »


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A Pecular Yet Beautiful Couple


« WORKING WITH YOUR BOYFRIEND IS LIKE A RELATIONSHIP : IT’S NOT ALWAYS OK BUT YOU MAKE IT WORK » Gregory and her met in Mexico, during FICCO, a movie festival. « He was playing there with his band Megapuss and, from then, I knew he was going to be my man. We have been together since then. » Diana Garcia then moved to Los Angeles with Roggove. « We try to do projects together. We did a short animated film but working with your boyfriend is like a relationship : it’s not always OK but you make it work. » Nonetheless, the couple continues to work together as they like to get involve in each other’s projects. « I like to play to her my music samples because she is not a musician and, the way a musician hears the music is different then how it sounds to a non-musician », adds Gregory Roggove. « I grew up in a really small and conservative town, surrounded by beautiful farms that are tended by the Amish. Growing up I thought it was boring but now, I think it’s one of the most esoteric things about the country. » He started playing piano at six years old, but never stuck to a particular instrument, learning violin, guitar and drum. At 18, he truly learned music when he subscribed to a student exchange in India. « On the first day of school, I realized my name was not on the call sheet so, I took the opportunity and left to never come back. Instead, I went to a proper music school, that’s where I learned classical Indian music. » When looking back at his career, Gregory Rogove admits having jumped from a band to another. « Sadly, one band was not satisfying enough creatively but also earning enough financially, but the nice thing about it is that each band would amplify a certain aspect of myself. »

A Pecular Yet Beautiful Couple

The musician, who describes himself more of a pianist than a guitar player, explains the work of the Piana album having started with a bunch of songs that would not fit anywhere else. « I have always loved sitting at the piano and composing. Sometimes, I know the song would be great played at the guitar or that it would be a good melody that we can sing to it. But, for those songs, it needed to be just piano. » Particularly for this album, Roggove has had a special creative process. « I like collaboration but, I also wanted to work on this on my own. » After finishing the album, the musician has sent some of his pieces to other artists, asking them to reinterpret them. « I thought that, since the pieces are so simple and striped down, I would be curious to see what they become musically and visually if someone else would develop them differently. » The results, sometime contrasting with the feeling of the composer, sometime happily surprising him, were made by other artists Gregory Roggove admires. Diana Garcia is currently in the firsts steps of the writing of a script, while working on her acting career. As for Rogove, he just finished recording Devendra Banhart’s last album named Mala, which should be out on March 12.

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In bloom Photographer : Hollie Fernando Model : Charlotte MacVean Make up : Eliza James Styling : Hollie Clark

In Bloom

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In Bloom

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In Bloom


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In Bloom


JASON LEVESQUE INTERVIEW: PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST BY MÉLISSA DES GROSEILLIERS

The eerie style of Jason Levesque catches our eye whether we like it or not as he started to be known as Stuntkid on art websites like DeviantArt and ArtWanted. The artist based in Vancouver talks to Flanelle about his path and his conception process.

finished an audio book on insects and while I was listening to it, I was drawing insects constantly. » The recurrent mushrooms in his drawings are also attributable to his quirky passion. « I was watching a documentary that was covering mushrooms, I started drawing those just like crazy and it was a heavy theme in my work », he adds.

Not majoring in arts, nor having any degree related to it, he is entirely responsible for developing his talent. « I left high-school early and I learned web design and animation on my own, he surprises us. That’s how I made my money while I pursued art in the background ». From newspapers to Playstation magazine, and even German fetish latex magazines, his art have been seen worldwide for eclectic reasons. « At 25, I started to take my art very seriously, tells Jason. I began doing a lot of illustration work, mostly magazine covers and weekly newspapers like LA Weekly and OC Weekly. »

«My art is definitely a vector of artwork styles, clean lines, it was early inspired by anime », he teaches us. When he talks about animes, he refers to classics of the Japanese animation cinema like Akira or Miyasaki’s masterpiece Nausica Valley of the winds. « I liked the softer shapes of anime, there is something a little bit French-Japanese about it, he thinks. It evolved a long way since then. » The pin-up phase he had in his debut still can be palpable as his characters, mostly women, have a femme fatale glance.   

His early work was inspired by artists Lori Earley and Audrey Kawasaki. While Earley might have inspired the intriguing and uncanny vibe of Jason’s illustration, Kawasaki’s characters have something graphic novel ish that makes us think about Levesque’s work. « Right now, the people that inspire me are all people that I’ve become friends with, he confides. I watch them change and develop new styles; sometimes they inspired me by how much they put into their work. » The Los Angeles young artist Christine Wu and the autodidact illustrator Glen Arthur are two of his favourite of the time.

The question remains, how does he come from a simple idea to his unique work ? Also a photographer, Jason Levesque, shoots his inspirations on camera to create realistic shapes, before starting the drawing process. « I get together with a model and shoot maybe 200 poses, some of them will have to do with an idea that I have, some of the poses will be something I might think I’ll be able to use later », he explains. Once he has an idea, he can go back through his reference material and piece together the photos. After mocking something up with Photoshop, he draws his personal touch on the image. « Often I take the photo, print it out, draw it on paper, and then scan it back, sometimes I will draw right over the photo, he reveals. It changes, kind of go back and forth. »

All of the artists named above have something in common: their art plays a lot with the push and pull effect. « I draw very much like a designer », says Levesque. While trying to create an aesthetically pleasing work, he is aware that putting the viewer out of his comfort zone will hold his attention a little bit longer, making the art interesting in more than one level. « I want to create something that is going to be attractive, but at the same time be a little repulsive, he describes. I will make a drawing and there will be a pair of pretty eyes that automatically grabs the attention, but then, when you look closer at the drawing, there’s also something gross about it, like nails or slug. »

What’s in store for his future career ? He surely came a long way since he started as Stuntkid. Only supposed to be the address of his webpage, the catchy nickname became his trademark. The artist, that prefers to be referred to as Jason Levesque, got that name from his old workplace. « I would skateboard around the office or go down the stairs on my skateboard, I was always doing something silly, risky, and ridiculous », he says with a smiling voice. The illustrated book Pretty Gross – this name resumes the essence of Levesque’s art – is now available on the market to browse through the illustrations and photographs that made him a respected and edgy artist.

A cherished way of his to realize this astonishing effect is to use biological themes. « I’m a big science nerd, Jason laughs. I just

Portrait of an Artist

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Portrait of an Artist


MEET THE MODEL : Interview with

Jennyfer Desbiens Flanelle : How were you first recruited ?

has always been great pleasure. She is a wonderful designer. Worldwide, I like Gaultier for his creative mind but St-Laurent for what he had to say.

I knocked on a few agencies’ doors and they said I was too weird. And then I met Sylvie, Scoop’s director, and she said that she likes weird girls.

Have you ever traveled abroad for your work ?

What do you think makes you different than the other models? What is your trademark ?

I spent three months in Mexico City and I shot a tv commercial in Santiago (Chilli).

I look like a sylphid.

What is your favorite pastime ? Tell us more !

How would you describe your personal style? Is there any public figure that inspires you ?

Right now, I have absolutely no pastime for I am at university, studying classics, and it takes all my time. But this summer, I’ll be reading Dany Laferrière, as usual, and drink hibiscus juice, that’s all I need to be happy.

I have a pretty eclectic style. One day I’ll wear a chic black jacket and the next a casual sweatshirt. I am certainly, indirectly and unconsciously inspired by many public figures. But for sure I am inspired by what I see in the street and by the fabulous and strong women of my entourage.

Do you have any favorite movie/favorite book ? Do you relate to it ? How ? Lost in Translation, 9,99 $ and L’Auberge espagnole are some of my favorite movies, because they are so close to what life is when you’re young and free.

Were there any struggles that you had to cope with through your career as a model ?

What are your 2013 resolutions ?

I had to stop comparing myself to the other girls. The more you work intensely as a model the more you slip into a kind of competition, which exists only in your head. In fact, you cast or you don’t, and at some point, there’s nothing you can do about it. You can’t have a dark Californian skin when you’re born « Snow White ».

My 2013 resolutions are to get involved in creative projects with my friends. And also, as always, to let go a little more (I have a tendency to be a little too dramatic when every things are cool). What are your perspectives for the future ?

What is your ideal of beauty ? Did this ideal change when you entered the modeling industry ?

Pursue my studies, work in edition and in acting. What is are your dreams and goals ?

You are beautiful when you look healthy. And the more a model is curious, intelligent, funny and strong, the more I find her beautiful. One last thing, it feels like my ideal of beauty changes when I travel in other countries. The most beautiful girls end up being the local ones.

Have a family, keep on traveling, never stop learning, and always have mini dreams and mini goals to reach. Interview by Mélissa Des Groseillers

Who is the designer that you prefer working with and who is your favorite designer worldwide ? I’ve been working with Anne de Shalla since 5 years now and it

Meet the Model

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Photographer : Jessy Gosselin Mua : Cynthia Dulude Stylist: Rick Patenaude Assistant: Patrice Lavoie 55

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Meet the Model


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District Photo : Balint Trunko Creative/Styling : Kissmark Make Up : Nati Kovalik Hair : Koczka Model : Fanny Kisbajcsi /VM Clothes : Szputnyik Shop, Kissmark, Swarovski, Trendi Italia, Icons by Bizanc (Dolce & Gabbana), Puma

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Flanelle Issue 3 - April 2013 edition  

Flanelle magazine a Montreal based magazine featuring artists around the world. Issue 3 - April 2013 edition. www.flanellemag.com

Flanelle Issue 3 - April 2013 edition  

Flanelle magazine a Montreal based magazine featuring artists around the world. Issue 3 - April 2013 edition. www.flanellemag.com